Creative HEAD UK August 2020

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£4.50 AUGUST 2020

It’s cool

to care



Let us look

after you

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

Why Aveda?

Because it cares… and always has

AVEDA CARES – it’s that simple. This

isn’t a new mission in light of recent

global events, it’s precisely what Aveda

has always focused on – truly ethical

and sustainable beauty that performs,

with business support to help grow all its

partners. Absolutely no compromise, ever.

But now Aveda’s mission means

something even more to both consumers

and to salons who now appreciate that a

different way of working is possible, and

necessary. It has the trust, heritage and

authenticity to deliver what consumers

are increasingly searching for, and to be a

true partner to salon businesses across the

UK that want to do something different

that makes a difference.

The way consumers think and behave

has changed because of the Covid-19

pandemic and, as we begin the recovery

phase and head into the new normal, they

will search out safety, spending on trusted

brands and continuing many of their

new online habits. There will be an even

greater focus on sustainability and social

change. Are you ready for that consumer?

Would they trust you?

It’s time to choose to care, and partner

with a brand that cares about you, your

salon business, your clients and our world.

It’s time to choose a different way…

How Aveda takes care of salons

Salons might be open again, but plenty are still concerned for the future.

Now more consumers are used to shopping digitally, salons could face a

diminishing share of retail. There is a different way…

An industry first, Aveda has launched A-Commerce to help salons boost

their profits through online sales. It’s free to set up, you don’t need a lengthy

training session to get going and there is no need to manage piles of stock.

Salons earn 10 per cent commission on all retail sales associated with their

salon via aveda.co.uk, giving businesses the chance to offer their guests retail

products both in the salon and online between visits.

Clients buy from a site that looks like your brand; Aveda handles the

backend fulfilment and related costs for all orders, including shipping and

handling (using environmentally-friendly packaging materials as much

as possible), promotional offers and samples, inventory, card processing

fees… Just ask the salons that have already trialled it – they’ve beaten their

sales targets by more than 58 per cent and new guests shopping online has

increased by more than 1,600 per cent over target, through A-Commerce.

Aveda is there to help keep clients loyal to you, thanks to its long-standing

reward points programme. Consumers pick up points whenever they buy

Aveda products through you (they can’t get them through third-party retailers)

and they can scoop up big numbers through in-salon services too, such as

1,000 points for a colour. How many hair brands can offer that incentive?

Alongside those premium products, Aveda Rituals and stellar service is an

unwavering dedication to helping salons grow their businesses and their staff.


How Aveda

takes care

of consumers

YOU’LL BE HEARING a lot about the ‘new normal’ right

now, and it’s an ever-shifting landscape as we all adjust

to our changed world. But even before the pandemic

struck, there was a growing consumer movement towards

vegan-friendly choices, of opting deliberately for ethically

responsible brands that are community-minded.

Now, many clients have concerns about the risk of

Covid-19 post-lockdown; it’s no wonder there’s indication

that ‘clean’ and ‘safe’ ingredients and products are

becoming more of a priority. That’s the new normal for

customer-facing businesses.

Across its more than 40-year history, Aveda has showcased

how it fundamentally cares for the world we live in. This

is a plant-powered brand with an environmental mission,

created by a hairdresser who was also deeply committed

to our impact on the planet. Its formulations have always

combined modern science with its roots in the ancient

Indian art of renewal.

Cruelty-free products with no animal testing? Always.

Aveda has been cruelty-free since day one, and as of July

2019, all manufactured products leaving its factory are 100

per cent vegan, 1 too. A pioneer in post-consumer recycled

packaging? You bet, and its manufacturing is solar and

wind-powered. 2 We’re talking at least 90 per cent naturally

derived, high-performance haircare – powered naturally,

created sustainably. And this is a brand that gives back to

local and global communities – that’s just the Aveda Way,

and always has been.

And don’t forget the power of the

Pure-Fume Aroma. Those famous

scents found in the products

and at the core of the in-salon

Aveda Rituals are so unique they

even have their own hashtag –

#SmellsLikeAveda, of course.

AVEDA HAS

DONATED OVER

$65m

(£51.6M) TO

ENVIRONMENTAL

CAUSES SINCE ITS

INCEPTION


1) Aveda is committed to having all vegan products on shelves by 1 January, 2021. 2) Through renewable energy credits and carbon offsets. Learn more at aveda.co.uk. 3) From plants, non-petroleum

minerals or water. Learn more at aveda.co.uk. 4) Based on averaged repeat grooming results of colour with botanical repair colour treatment versus colour with non-conditioning shampoo.

“If a colourist can dream it,

Aveda can create it”

JOE HILL, COLOUR SPECIALIST, AVEDA UK PRO TEAM

“Just because Aveda creates colour

that cares for hair and is up to 93

per cent naturally-derived, 3 doesn’t

mean it can’t perform. It delivers on

the dazzling; we’re talking infinite

colour possibilities, all thanks to

a fully customisable palette. Rich,

radiant brunettes; high-lift, highwattage

blondes; fade-resistant reds

and even vibrant violet results are all

achievable with Aveda Hair Colour.”

“Safety is the new luxury”

ANTOINETTE BEENDERS, SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT,

GLOBAL PROFESSIONAL ARTISTRY

As the beating creative heart of Aveda for 23

years, iconic hairdresser Antoinette Beenders

understands how to develop sustainable,

successful businesses…

Q: How can salons ensure a visit is still a luxury

experience or a treat with salon safety measures?

A: If clients feel safe when they’re with you and

you give them a great colour, a brilliant cut, that’s

the service they’re looking for.

Q: Which services are currently driving US salons?

A: Colour is the number one request. Everybody is

working from home and being seen on

Zoom where it’s difficult to hide roots!

Think about offering express root

services, and also techniques that

concentrate on the T-zone.

Q: What are you seeing in terms of hair

trends back in the salon?

A: People are just happy to get into the

salon – there are some opportunities

for makeovers but a lot of clients

like the length they have grown

and would like to hang on to it.

New is our normal!

Coming soon from Aveda,

the vegan Botanical

Repair collection that

strengthens damaged

hair. This new bondbuilding

collection

of a shampoo and

conditioner, light and rich

strengthening masque

and leave-in treatment

uses plant technology

for five-times

stronger

hair 4 and

dramatically

reduced

breakage

during colour

services for

a brilliant

finish.

Show the world how much you care – join Aveda now by calling 0370 192 5650 or email joinavedauk@aveda.co.uk

@AvedaUKPro @AvedaUK #AvedaCares

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL


Editor’s letter

13

24

56

I SHOULD HAVE been on a beach in the Dominican Republic,

sipping a rum-laced cocktail while my nine-year old daughter hurled

herself down a looping water slide for the 36th time that day. I’m guessing

a fair few of you had similar plans involving sun, surf and possibly vats of

mojitos. But here we all are, working our busiest August ever… and you know

what? After the anxiety of lockdown, being back with colleagues and clients is truly

thrilling. We felt it at Creative HEAD when we descended upon Lock Studios for

the Most Wanted and The It List Award judging days, seeing so many industry stars

as they were enjoying their businesses being open once again. We wanted to bottle

that feeling and share it with you in our The Thrill of the New special from page 36,

which celebrates all the shiny newness we’ll see coming our way. But this issue also

has a serious subject to address; this summer’s Black Lives Matter protests have

shone a spotlight on the discrimination that BAME stylists continue to endure.

At Creative HEAD, we aim to do better, to share a broader representation of

voices and imagery across all of our platforms. From page 52, stylists such

as Errol Douglas MBE and Rianna Henry share their own experiences

and hopes for the future. I urge you to read it and consider how

you can make a difference.

Amanda Nottage

Editor

JOIN US!

Oh, have we got some exciting

news! From page 24 you can

see the creative geniuses,

business brainiacs and

supreme teams that wowed

their way onto the Most

Wanted and The It List

Awards shortlists. Want to

be at the Grand Final on

29 November? Tickets are

hot property, page 24 has

details. We’re also excited

to unveil a new format for

Salon Smart London on

27 September… we’ll be

delivering a packed one-day

schedule directly to your home, as

we go virtual for the fi rst time. It’s

the same epic line up and priceless

advice but without the need to

travel; are you ready to refl ect, reset

and rebuild together? See page 30.

creativeheadmag.com/events

amanda@alfol.co.uk creativeheadmag.com creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag


August

CREATIVE HEAD

Since 2000

WHAT’S INSIDE

36

THE THRILL OF THE NEW

You’re back at work and it’s all about

to get very exciting in the world of hair

66

IN THE FRAME

Tina Outen spent

lockdown in NYC

honing her skills

LEVEL THE PLAYING FIELD

Creative HEAD takes an

unflinching look at life for a BAME

hairstylist in today’s industry

52

ON THE COVER

Creative direction and

hair: Antoinette Beenders,

Aveda senior vice-president,

global professional artistry;

assisted by Michela Pezza.

Colour: Bruno Elorrioroz.

Make-up: Marco Antonio.

Fashion styling: Elad Bitton.

Photography: Damian Foxe

12

RISING STAR

Tarin Sawyers Scott

at Hazel & Haydn

looks to the future

EDITOR

AMANDA NOTTAGE

DEPUTY EDITOR

DEBORAH MURTHA

STAFF WRITER

ANNA SAMSON

ART DIRECTOR

NICK JABBAL

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

ADAM WOOD

DIGITAL DESIGNER

EVA VESTMANN

ONLINE AND

DIGITAL ASSISTANT

KELSEY DRING

ONLINE AND

DIGITAL EDITOR

ALISON ROWLEY

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE

DAVID HAMMOND

SPECIAL PROJECTS

ASSISTANT

BELLA PETERS

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER

JENNY BROOKS

SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR

JOANNA ANDERSEN

PUBLISHER

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

Creative HEAD is printed on

paper certifi ed as being from

sustainable sources using only

vegetable-based inks. Printed

by Buxton Press, Environmental

Printer of the Year and Printing

Company of the Year.

WRITE TO US AT:

Creative HEAD,

21 The Timberyard,

Drysdale Street,

London, N1 6ND

020 7324 7540

enquiries@alfol.co.uk

Creative HEAD is published

10 times a year by Alfol Ltd.

Creative HEAD is a registered

trademark. No part of this

magazine may be reproduced

without prior permission of the

publisher. All information correct

at time of going to press.

Printing by Buxton Press

creativeheadmag.com

creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag


The edit

THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRYLve

COVID COULD

COST SALONS

OVER £9,000

THE IMPACT OF the Covid-19 pandemic on

small businesses operating in the hair and

beauty industry will exceed £9,282 per salon

in lost work, earnings and loan repayments,

according to a new report.

The survey of 411 hair and beauty business

owners by insurer Simply Business also found

that one in three businesses (33 per cent) are at

risk of permanently closing.

According to the figures, 43 per cent of

respondents were concerned about the future

of their business, while 37 per cent were also

concerned about running out of money. Half

of the participants admitted they have had to

borrow money from friends and family to stay

afloat, and a quarter expressed concerns about

being able to pay back money borrowed.

Financial support from the government

had proven a lifeline for many, as 72 per cent

were able to apply for a government grant or

loan to relieve some of the financial pressure

presented by the pandemic.

But despite these challenges and concerns,

one in five (22 per cent), said they still felt

optimistic about their businesses.

CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING EVENT Salon Smart has

transformed its September weekend into a virtual, one-day happening, Salon

Smart Live. It offers the same crucial insight and the same talented presenters,

but in a new on-screen format that means you can watch from the comfort of

your home. But this is no standard Zoom call; filmed live in a studio and fully

managed and produced by Creative HEAD’s event experts, you can expect the

same packed agenda: conversations, interviews, workshops, Q&As and more!

If you’ve ever wanted to attend the event but previously been unable to,

this is an unmissable opportunity. Even better, tickets cost just £30 plus VAT if

you book before 14 August (£35 plus VAT thereafter). Your ticket purchase will

unlock a unique code to access a specially designed portal to the Salon Smart

live stream. Switched on, tuned in, and armed with your Salon Smart Power

Pack, you’ll be ready and set for the ultimate day of business education!

For more information, turn to page 30.

MWIT20 GRAND FINAL

MOVES TO 29 NOVEMBER

The Most Wanted and The It List Awards Grand Final in London has been pushed

back to Sunday 29 November, in order to deliver the most fabulous celebration

of UK and Irish hair talent for all our fantastic finalists, sponsors, judges, industry

friends and everybody who has joined us on the MWIT journey so far. We’re

committed to keeping the #MWIT20 magic alive – the party might be late, but

we promise it’ll be worth the wait! Stay tuned for updates across all our social

channels @creativeheadmag

in the coming weeks.

Check out this year’s incredible

finalists for Most Wanted and The It List

from page 24.

HAIR & BEAUTY CHARITY

SEES AID REQUESTS SOAR

Applications for fi nancial support from the Hair

& Beauty Charity rose by 78 per cent during the

Covid-19 crisis. The charity has distributed more

than £60,000 to benefi ciaries since March, an

increase of 75 per cent year-on-year. It has worked

to support salons and stylists in need, despite

experiencing a major loss of income due to various

fundraising activities and events being cancelled.

A Relief Fund has also been established, which

has raised more than £30,000 so far.

The annual ghd Pink

collection, in collaboration with

Breast Cancer Now, has us swooning

over these stunning dusky pink tools.

The 2020 slogan ‘Take Control Now’

is subtly inscribed in metallic paint,

catching the light to remind women to

check their breasts as regularly as they

use their hair tools.

ghdhair.com

08


GOV’T BONUS SCHEME

FOR NEW APPRENTICES

Chancellor of the Exchequer Rishi Sunak has announced a new bonus scheme for employers

who hire apprentices in the next six months.

Running from August 2020 to January 2021, companies that hire a new apprentice aged 16

to 24 will receive £2,000. Those who hire new apprentices aged 25 and over will be paid £1,500.

The Treasury has published a Plan for Jobs document that confirms that this new bonus

scheme is in addition to the existing £1,000 incentive that the government provides for new 16

to 18-year-old apprentices.

“We know apprenticeships work. Ninety one per cent stay in work or go on to further

training,” the Chancellor added in his summer statement to the House of Commons.

2,646

new incorporations of hair and beauty companies

were made during lockdown, illustrating that

recent events have not dampened the spirit of hair

entrepreneurs. Almost 200,000 companies have been incorporated across

all sectors, an O2 Business analysis of Companies House data has found.

Haringtons in huge

recruitment drive

A global pandemic isn’t enough to stop the growth plans of

salon chain Haringtons. The 10-strong chain based in the

south and south-east of England is recruiting 70 new team

members to cater to demand across all sites, as well as a

recent refit at its Beaconsfield salon.

The Haringtons group has invested heavily throughout

lockdown, not just in staff, but also in the development of its

salons, tools and technologies.

Nikki Neale, head of brand, marketing and acquisition,

said: “Despite businesses being forced to close due to the

effects of the Covid-19 pandemic, Haringtons used the crisis

as an opportunity to improve our business at all levels.”

Angelo Seminara

joins Goldwell

Goldwell has appointed Angelo Seminara as its

new global brand ambassador. The celebrated

stylist will be bringing his unique flair and

colour creativity to collections and show work

with Goldwell, as well as involvement with new

product development with the R&D teams in

Germany and Japan. He said: “Goldwell has

always been at the forefront of innovation. I

couldn’t be more excited to innovate alongside it.”

Angelo will be presenting a new collection

and show at the upcoming KAO Salon Virtual

Experience in October.

#CHedit

MY month

AHEAD

What August

has in store for...

RICKY WATERS

SALON64

To mark our third year in

business we are launching

CLUB64: Salon by day and

private members club by

night. We are continuing

to bring the community

together by opening a club

and creating

a social

atmosphere

and luxury

destination

people want to

be a part of.

JOSEPH FERRARO

JOSEPH FERRARO HAIR

Unlike previous Augusts, our

appointment book is bursting

at the seams. I’d like to think

that I have emerged from

my longest ever break with

more business acumen and

an even better relationship

with my son. The month will

be divided

between

business

building,

mindfulness,

salon work,

and family.

MOVERS AND

SHAKERS

Takara Belmont has

appointed Stephen Price

as managing director.

Coty has named former

L’Oréal Paris executive

Sue Y Nabi as its new

chief executive.

Chlöe Swift has joined

the ghd global education

team, she was previously

a ghd brand warrior.

CREATIVE HEAD

09


Cut down appointment time with

the Great Lengths at-home Client

Prep Kit, so your guest is all set for

their new extensions when they

arrive in your chair. It includes

Clean Remover Shampoo and a

dressing out brush.

RRP £15.99

0114 278 1294

greatlengths.com

This 75 per cent alcohol hand

sanitiser from Sea Venus is nonsticky,

cares for hands and comes

in 500ml pump action bottles –

perfect for styling stations.

SALON PRICE £4.95 UNTIL

16 AUGUST (USUALLY £5.50,

MINIMUM ORDER 12 BOTTLES)

seavenus.co.uk

The Bounce Back

Blonde is in full effect.

Help those lighter

clients keep it cool

and tone up between

appointments with

a little help from

Serie Expert Silver

shampoo from L’Oréal

Professionnel.

RRP £12.90

0800 030 4034

lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

Help your clients survive summer with a choice of three

packs from ASP, each with a stylish bag. We think the

Love Bright Blondes Anti-Yellow Kit will fly off shelves.

Irresistible services consumers will want

to snap up, selected by the Layered team

The spotlight on textured hair is a breath of

fresh air, and savvy brands are ensuring they have

products for all hair types. Step forward ghd,

innovator extraordinaire – it has unveiled three

nozzles for the ghd helios professional hairdryer.

The professional comb nozzle gently helps lift,

shape and blow out textured hair, while the

professional diffuser works to perfect those curls.

For speed-drying thick hair, the professional wide

styling nozzle is a lifesaver.

RRP FROM £20

01924 423 400

ghdhair.com

RRP £33.50 EACH

01794 527 111

asphair.com

Get fruity with these environmentally friendly Head Jog

08 Straw Brushes, made from bio-material and available

in blueberry, raspberry, gooseberry and blackberry hues.

RRP £6.50 EACH

SALON PRICE FOR DISPLAY BOX OF 12: £34.99

01924 466 999

hairtools.co.uk

Create soft, barely-there finishes

with MONAT Studio One Dry

Texturizing Spray. And use the

Color Locking + Protective Spray

– a weightless, dual-action leavein

treatment – to extend the life of

colour and protect from UV rays.

RRP TEXTURIZING SPRAY £32,

COLOR LOCKING +

PROTECTIVE SPRAY £35

monatglobal.com/uk

What did we all

do before bond

building additives

existed? Meet the

latest innovation –

BlondorPlex from

Wella Professionals

– a lightening

powder with bond

builder technology

included for up

to 97 per cent less

breakage, when

used with WellaPlex No.2.

IN-SALON SERVICE

020 3901 1163

wella.com

New from

Schwarzkopf

Professional

is the Color

Blender Tool,

created in

collaboration

with global colour

ambassador, Lesley

Jennison. Perfect

for multi-tonal

applications to

deliver a seamless

colour transition.

SALON PRICE £5

0800 328 6920

schwarzkopfpro.com

10

CREATIVE HEAD


#CHedit

STOCK

OPTIONS

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO

STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS

AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS

We can all agree it’s been quite

the year. But on the positive side

we’ve seen a greater appreciation

of hairdressing and an increase in

consumer interest in hair health

and care. This is the perfect time to

introduce a little luxury onto your

retail shelves and thrill clients with

a proper pampering treat. Welcome

the latest luxe launches from Oribe.

First up is the Gold Lust All Over

Oil, a multi-tasking beauty elixir that

can be used on hair, the body or even

the face. It’s 99 per cent natural, for

an all-day radiant glow and features

Oribe’s classic Côte d’Azur scent, a

rejuvenating lemon-rose fragrance.

Then the brand’s Signature Collection

is boosted with the addition of

Invisible Defense Universal

Protection Spray, a shield from UV

rays, pollution and thermal damage,

while protecting against frizz. Both

come in Oribe’s iconic black and

gold packaging, the ultimate in

Instagrammable beauty.

RRP ALL OVER OIL £55,

INVISIBLE DEFENSE £39.50

0330 123 9530

oribe.com

IT’S ALL ABOUT... TONING

The new evo fabuloso Platinum

Blonde shampoo is sulphate-free

and ideal for any blonde suffering

from dull, dry or brassy hair.

It gently cleanses with maxed-out

pigment to neutralise unwanted

brassy and yellow tones in colourtreated

blondes.

RRP £20

0800 955 4285

evohair.co.uk

The Total Results Dark Envy range

from Matrix removes any red from

dark brown and black hair, while the

mask is perfect for in-salon colour

neutralisation services.

RRP FOR SHAMPOO AND

CONDITIONER £11.50 EACH,

MASK IN-SALON ONLY

AVAILABLE THROUGH WHOLESALERS

INCLUDING ALAN HOWARD

matrixhaircare.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD

11


WHY DID YOU

WANT TO BE A

HAIRDRESSER?

From a young age I’ve

had a huge fascination for

art within hair. Shapes,

colours and blends – all

these things I would see

in magazines and then try

to recreate on my mum

or sister at home with

household items!

TARIN SAWYERS SCOTT

AGE: 20

SALON: HAZEL & HAYDN

WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR?

Working with Glamour magazine’s hair and beauty

events, as well as working with big brands like AMIKA

and Lee Stafford. On events like these I’ve been able to

offer clients tips and tricks. It’s a different side of my job

in which I can expand my skills in a new environment.

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME?

In education and behind the scenes creating and trialling

colour. I love colour especially – its full of endless

possibilities. It’s all about creating something personal,

whether it’s a full drastic change, or a change of tone/light.

WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG?

Easy – to work with a queen like Beyoncé! Especially

something like a live performance, where my work

could be seen on a huge platform.

12


#CHedit

Inside

story

FRENCH & IVI BELPER

When Tracey Devine-Smith’s family commitments brought her to Derbyshire,

she instantly fell in love with Belper, choosing the town for her new destination

boutique salon. The ASP global ambassador has made it a family aff air, joined

by daughter Poppy Devine-Smith, to create an inviting space that from the

moment you walk in feels like home. “We didn’t want it to be clinical or minimal;

French & Ivi was all about creating a retro and boutique-style vibe that oozes

personality,” explains Tracey. “Poppy and I love old junk shops with lots to

look at, so it was important the space was interesting too.” It’s an eclectic

combination of delicately patterned wallpaper, wooden pallets and a diff ering

array of mirrors that delivers a mish-mash of colour, size and style. “I love the

fl oor,” she adds. “We found it by mistake while working on the renovation.

Imagine our delight when we discovered these 100-year-old tiles!” There are

two more rooms to renovate when the time is right – renovations happened

during lockdown – and the salon’s fi rst day in business was the hallowed

4 July reopening day.

HOT BUYS

now open

AS SEEN ON SCREEN

If you’ve decided to add screens to your salon, these Living Spaces foliagefilled

glass box or printed screens from Twilight Trees add a botanical flavour

that’s a little less clinical.

From £440

01962 877 644

twilight-trees.com

GARY INGHAM HAMPSTEAD

Reclaimed wood artisan Marco Merlini worked

with the salon on this redesign, which feels

both spacious and private, and is made from

100 per cent recyclable materials.

CREATIVE HEAD

13


THE BUSINESS EDIT

HOW CAN SALONS SWERVE

POST-LOCKDOWN BURNOUT?

AFTER FOUR MONTHS in lockdown,

the vast majority of stylists, barbers and

colourists across the land were desperate to

get back to work, aware that they would be

fully booked for some time, trying to see as

many clients as they could. But tales from

European countries that opened weeks

before the UK spoke of stylists going all-out

in the first couple of weeks before running

on fumes, exhausted. It seemed to be

evidence of post-lockdown burnout.

So, what are UK salons and barber

shops doing to avoid falling into the same

trap? Caroline Sanderson, founder of

Ego Hair Design in Inverness and Salon

Jedi Coaching, had 400 calls the day she

reopened salon bookings, so the team knew

they were facing an extremely busy time

ahead. She conducted a staff survey, which

showed a staff fear level of returning to

work at 4.9 (with 10 being the most afraid),

while the level of excitement was 8.55. When

asked to rate their mental health following

lockdown, the average was 7.

The team was awarded Salon Jedi Mindful

Salon accreditation during lockdown, for

working on incorporating mindfulness into

their daily life and work. “We will continue

to implement this in our salon,” adds

Caroline. “We work with the team to help

them reframe negative thought processes.”

GAVIN MILLS,

BAD APPLE HAIR GROUP

For example, some of their concerns

include the virus itself, but mainly the

smooth running of the salon, whether

worried clients may be upset if they can’t get

the appointment times they want or about

all the guidelines the team has to work to.

“We turn it around. If staff wonder whether

clients would be cross about the new systems,

we explore ‘but what if they’re not?’. What

if they’re thrilled to have their appointment

and love their new hair? We encourage the

team to start the day with a positive mindset

and offer space to just breathe and regroup.”

“We are doing two shifts, six days a week

of six hours each. Although team members

are working six days, its only 36 hours. So,

it’s not really a burnout situation,” explains

Keith Mellen of Anne Veck. “However, the

key people who may be more vulnerable

to serious burnout will be salon owners,

especially working owners of small salons.”

Indeed, he points to Anne as an example.

Since reopening two stylists had to handle

family health emergencies, all without

warning, so Anne had to work 12-hour days

until the salon could re-organise bookings.

“The outcome we are working towards is

back to normal hours as soon as possible,”

says Keith. “Maybe with improvements –

one of the plus points of this situation is it

has allowed everyone to do some thinking.”

“During lockdown we partnered with YuLife to provide

income protection and life insurance for our staff. It costs

£25 a month for each member and a full package of benefits

includes salary cover (up to 80 per cent) even in a pandemic;

24/7 access to counselling with our Employee Assistance

Programme via video call; vocational rehabilitation to help

employees get back to work and access to a Doctor on Demand service, with a 24/7

virtual GP and prescription service for members and their families. We’ve created

a community around personal wellbeing in our workplace, using our company

leaderboards. This allows staff to earn discounts, benefits and prizes such as £100

gift vouchers for walking to work and engaging in mindfulness. We also have regular

Zoom meetings to talk over worries; I keep Thursday evenings free for staff who

need one-to-one support. These initiatives will stay as long-term benefits for staff. It’s

important to me that they feel secure and know that Bad Apple has their best interests

at heart and can help in any wellbeing issues where possible.”

LIFE

LESSONS

BELLE CANNON

SALON SLOANE

Don’t be afraid of

responsibility. You have

to make things happen and

think ahead, keep striving.

Lead by example,

communicating with and

nurturing your team.

This gets the best out of

everyone. I always walk in

and say good morning to

the team and always praise

them and recognise their

achievements. I’ve always

believed in treating people

how I wish to be treated.

No mistakes would mean

no opportunity to learn.

Not everything you do will

be successful; don’t stress

about the failures. This

is how you discover what

works and what doesn’t –

and how you find out what

your strengths are.

Always stay positive and

be prepared. Throughout

the pandemic I’ve stayed

positive, even though it’s

been the most challenging

time for the salon, my

stylists and me. Having a

positive outlook and keeping

up team morale can make all

the difference. When you’re

positive, you get the best out

of everyone.

14

CREATIVE HEAD


#BusinessEdit

MISSION CONTROL

PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON

in association with Phorest Salon Software

AS SALONS ACROSS the UK

reopened in July, Phorest Salon

Software took a look at what that

meant for booking trends and

what the most wanted treatments

were. Let’s see what happened in

the first few days back in English

and Northern Irish salons.

ONLY 5.6% OF CLIENTS

WHO DIDN’T BUY A

VOUCHER BAGGED AN

APPOINTMENT IN THE

FIRST TWO WEEKS BACK,

COMPARED WITH 27.6%

OF CLIENTS WHO DID

THE MISSION: MAKING IT SAFE

1,255

salons adopted

pre-send

consultation forms

for their clients

THE TOP 3

SERVICES BOOKED

IN ENGLAND

(FROM 4-10 JULY)

1. HAIRCUT 49.8%

2. COLOUR 27.7%

3. STYLING 7.9%

PHOREST’S NEW ABILITY TO PRE-SEND CONSULTATION FORMS HAS BEEN

KEEPING SALONS SAFE AROUND THE GLOBE. IN THE FIRST TWO WEEKS OF JULY:

121,000

clients received

digital forms straight

to their phones

ahead of their

appointments

With Covid-specifi c questions and disclaimers on all treatments

and bespoke consultation questions on the customisable forms,

salon owners have been able to not only get prior information on

what their client will need, but also to reduce time in salon.

Their days are running smoothly and cross-contamination caused

by sharing devices or pen and paper has been eliminated, with

all forms sent directly from the stylist to the customer. And it’s all

safely, digitally stored in the cloud.

DID YOU KNOW…

THE MIDLANDS LOVES HAVING HAIR

EXTENSIONS, BUT FOR LONDONERS, THE

PERM IS STILL A TOP FIVE TREATMENT

CRUNCH TIME CAME for salons in Northern

Ireland and England in the fi rst week of July

when reopening kicked off for the fi rst two

regions of the UK. With England opening its

doors on 4 July and Northern Ireland following

on 6 July, all eyes were on the salons paving

the way for the rest of the UK.

So, what did it look like? A spike in

bookings, longer salon hours and set cleaning

times between each client was standard

across the board, but we delved further to fi nd

out which services clients came back for fi rst.

Perhaps surprisingly, haircuts were more in

demand than colour, topping the bill by about

22 per cent more. The other treatments in the

top fi ve were colour (27.7 per cent), styling

(7.9 per cent), hair treatments (5.5 per cent)

and a perm (1.4 per cent). Regionally, the

differences were clear: in the Midlands, the

volume of hair extension appointments kept

it in the top fi ve both regionally and nationally,

but for London and the rest of the country, the

bodywave perm bumps extensions out of the

number fi ve spot, making up 1.9 per cent of

bookings in the capital city.

Working from home has also proved

benefi cial for the number of clients who are

making the most of their fl exibility to use

business hours for their hair and beauty

needs. In the fi rst week of bookings,

appointments made in the hours of 9am to

5pm, Monday through Thursday were up 2

per cent on last year with the trend increasing

– meaning there are now more people booking

salon appointments during business hours

than not. Now that’s one Covid-related trend

we could get used to.

Shauna O’Halloran is content &

marketing manager at Phorest

Salon Software. Find out more

at phorest.com and

@phorestsalonsoftware

CREATIVE HEAD

15


COLOUR VISION

IT’S ALL HANDS ON DECK IN SALONS UP AND DOWN THE COUNTRY. KNOW YOUR WORTH AND

DELIVER RESULTS YOUR CLIENTS HAVE BEEN MISSING, WITH THE HELP OF WELLA PROFESSIONALS

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

TALK IS FREE!

Wella Professionals Advisory Video Consultation

appointments are the latest free offering

to any professional hairdresser who needs

technical advice now that they are back at

work. Hairdressers can have a completely free

20-minute consultation via an Instagram video

call with an experienced technician who will

be able to help with any concerns. Each virtual

appointment can be booked either with or

without the client being present, and provides

ideal support for the colour correction work that

salons are experiencing. Appointments will run

from 8am to 8pm and can be booked online at

wellaeducationuk.com/#events

THE COLOUR CLINIC IS OPEN…

THE COLOUR CLINIC IS YOUR DROP-IN SERVICE FOR ADVICE ON HOW TO AVOID THE PROBLEMS COLOURISTS RUN INTO. WELLA PROFESSIONALS

CRAFT EXPERT JAMES EARNSHAW (@JHAIR_STYLIST) LOOKS AT PRICING YOURSELF REALISTICALLY AND FAIRLY IN A TIME-POOR REALITY

A lot of colourists have a fear of knowing their worth. But it’s especially important to know

now as clients are coming in with double regrowth! Wella’s profit calculator is an invaluable

new tool that lets you work out exactly how much profit you’re making from each service.

You might think you’re making £20 or £40, but it could only be £8 – it’s shocking. It’s been

a major tool for going back to work – don’t stand there for an hour and only make £8 in

profit, it’s not worth it. It’s really opened my eyes and it gives me the confidence to assess

how much I want to make from a service. The calculator figures out exactly how much the

colour that I’m using costs, how long that regrowth lasts, and tells me how much I need to make

so that I can definitively know how much I have to charge. It’s not plucking a figure from the air, it’s factual. But

if people aren’t willing to pay it, you should have the confidence to say no.

Colour Renew ties into this well because it works quickly to break down colour molecules to give you one

to two levels of lift, as well as removing toner build-up without affecting the natural colour and without any

bleaching products. It’s great if clients have overdone it on the silver shampoo, or maybe tried to do their own

roots – it can help to remove some of that deposit without it needing to tip into a super-long service. It takes

between 15 and 45 minutes to work, and then a gloss over the top will have hair looking as good as new.

It’s been a great asset in getting back to work.

16 CREATIVE HEAD


#ColourVision

SHELFIE TIME

BlondorPlex is such a fantastic product

– well done Wella Professionals,

always one step ahead of the

game! It’s the perfect addition to

the Blondor family, offering up

to 97 per cent less breakage when

lightening.* More and more clients are becoming

aware of efforts to maintain hair quality during

chemical services, while still wanting to be playful

with colour changes. It’s a great time-saver in the

salon with no compromise on lift. Perfection!”

MARY GEOGHEGAN (@MARYG.HAIR), STYLE DIRECTOR, KH HAIR

*97 per cent less breakage when using WellaPlex

N°2 with BlondorPlex, versus BlondorPlex alone

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

WHY I’M

WELLA

@daisy_goord

I don’t think our industry has ever been through such a traumatic period and I honestly don’t

know how I would have kept up my love and enthusiasm for hairdressing without the Wella

Professionals online community.

Although we are scattered across the globe, Wella Passionistas all have one thing in

common: we are obsessed with delivering the best possible results for our clients.

As a blonde specialist, it has been heart-breaking for me to watch as years of work have

been put on hold. I cannot tell you how frustrating it has been to watch Hollywood stars

promoting my worst nightmare; the box colour. Now that we’re back in the salon, we’re able to

start sharing tips and techniques again among the Wella family. There is a mountain to climb

in catching-up with all those missed appointments, but what an opportunity to produce those

head-turning ‘before and after’ shots. I have absolute confidence that the Wella Professionals

range gives me the products I need to obtain stunning results every time.”

DAISY GOORD (@DAISY_GOORD), WELLA PASSIONISTA

KEEP YOUR CLIENTS HAPPY WITH EFFECTIVE AND EFFICIENT COLOUR SERVICES. THE WELLA PROFESSIONALS EXPRESS HIGHLIGHTS MASTERCLASS, FEATURING WELLA’S

TECHNICAL DIRECTOR FOR UK AND IRELAND, ROBERT EATON, IS A SHORT ’N’ SWEET DEMONSTRATION ON HOW TO USE HIGHLIGHTS TO INCREASE PROFITABILITY AND SAVE YOU

TIME DURING BUSY PERIODS. BEST OF ALL, IT’S TOTALLY FREE FOR ALL HAIRDRESSERS. GO TO EDUCATION.WELLA.COM TO FIND THIS AND LOTS OF FREE INSPIRATIONAL

AND PRACTICAL EDUCATION, FROM COLOUR AND STYLING TO PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE AND BUSINESS SKILLS

@wellahairuki #WellaColour #MakeChange

Wella Professionals

CREATIVE HEAD

17


Are you a...

...hairdresser looking

for a salon?

or ...salon looking for

a hairdresser?

Hairdresser Jobs Uk&I

Hairdresser Jobs UK&I is a NEW free recruitment

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brought to you by Wella Professionals


Introducing the new revolutionary

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*when using BlondorPlex with Wellaplex N2, versus BlondorPlex alone

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Up to 7 levels of lift

For multi-blonde results

FIND OUT MORE

Talk to your Account Manager/Education Team

Discover the products at wellastore.com |

@wellahairuki | education.wella.com


Ready,

set, go

AS THE FLAG LIFTS AND THE INDUSTRY ROARS BACK INTO BUSINESS, WE LOOK

AT HOW TREATWELL IS HELPING ITS PARTNER SALONS TO COME BACK STRONG

THE DEMAND FOR our industry is as high as it’s ever been. The British

beauty industry accounted for almost 600,000 jobs in 2018, and from

that hair services contributed more than any other service, with £6.3

billion spent by the British public. Upon the government’s announcement

of lockdown lifting on the 4 July, demand went through. The. Roof.

Treatwell registered a whopping 2,250 per cent increase in UK

bookings, compared with the week before lockdown. Wow!

Shaggy-haired gents booked in their droves, with Treatwell’s barbers

seeing a growth of 1,223 per cent in demand, closely followed by

women’s haircuts, which shot up by 1,158 per cent. And let’s not forget

the roots situation; colour treatment bookings rose by 942 per cent.

Clients are thrilled that salons are back in business – and Treatwell

is ready to support the industry as it faces one of the most difficult and

busiest periods in memory. Throughout lockdown, Treatwell provided

its partner salons with invaluable help and advice. Amid a period of

intense uncertainty, it was a beacon of support to hair and beauty

business owners.

Treatwell’s Behind Closed Doors initiative – a Facebook group where

beauty businesses could share updates, questions and concerns –

proved to be an enormous success and will be continuing even

as lockdown recedes. Its experts are on hand within the group for

support, and to offer advice from its experienced finance, HR, legal

and marketing teams.

No question is too small, no worry left unaddressed. Whether you’re

a salon owner or a trainee, it has been an indispensable platform that is

sure to grow and evolve as we navigate a post-lockdown world.

Back with a bang

DON’T LET THE SURGE IN DEMAND PASS YOU BY

TREATWELL’S DATA SHOWED JUST HOW

MUCH CLIENTS MISSED THE SALON:

After months closed, salons are dealing with phones ringing off the hook and back-to-back

bookings for weeks. Harnessing this demand and taking full advantage of the time you have is

crucial. Luckily, a Treatwell partnership can give you the tools you need.

Treatwell was hard at work during the shut-in, checking in with its customers about their

thoughts on hair and beauty post-lockdown, what their priorities were, and how their habits

may change with the times. All of this information has been distilled into key aspects of support

that Treatwell offers its partners – from pricing initiatives and hygiene expectations through to

how to maximise your availability and communicate with your clients.

20 CREATIVE HEAD


CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

REOPENING SAW A +2,250 PER CENT

INCREASE IN APPOINTMENT DEMAND

FOR THE FIRST WEEK BACK, AS SOON

AS BOOKINGS WERE AVAILABLE

BOOKINGS HAVE BEEN SPREAD OUT

ACROSS THE WHOLE DAY – GONE ARE

THE DAYS OF THE DEAD MONDAY

CUSTOMERS ARE ACTIVELY LOOKING

FOR ELEVATED HYGIENE AND SAFETY

FEATURES IN SALON, AS WELL AS

CLEAR COMMUNICATION ACROSS

SOCIAL MEDIA, WEBSITES AND

FROM SALONS DIRECTLY

THE APPETITE FOR OUR SERVICES IS

THERE, MORE THAN EVER. HERE’S HOW

TO HARNESS THAT DEMAND…

CREATIVE HEAD

21


The price

is right

THE NEW NORMAL MEANS A CHANCE TO DO BUSINESS DIFFERENTLY...

ALL WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM TREATWELL. IS IT TIME FOR YOUR SALON

TO THINK LIKE A DYNAMIC DOTCOM?

LOOK AT YOUR menu and your price list. We mean

really look at it. Because right now, it’s important to

reassess your pricing models, to reflect the change

in circumstances. Clients have been waiting for your

services and Treatwell has noted that they are happy

to pay handsomely for services they truly value. Look

objectively at your prices – if they’re higher, don’t be

afraid to say why. Don’t undersell yourself to try and

be the cheapest in your area.

Consider revamping your treatment descriptions,

detailing the hygiene initiatives you’ve put in place

for clients, and referencing the professional-level

products you use. Remind clients why they missed

you, and why you are worth the money.

Many salons have cut the number of chairs in the

salon, reducing income potential, so it’s important to

put measures in place to maximise profitability where

possible. Do you have clear peak times and dead

periods? Consider dynamic pricing – where clients

pay a different price depending on the day or time

– to encourage a more even spread of clients. Many

other industries use this, from hospitality to travel

(you’ll have spotted this when booking an Uber

on your phone we bet!), and it could be an instant

winner, because clients are now familiar with paying

more for popular times. At the other end of the scale,

Treatwell partners benefit from built-in off-peak

discounting tools, so you can help to encourage

clients to book in during quieter slots.

Rory MacParland, Sharps Barbers

“Treatwell has made our job easier – it does what we need it to do. It’s available

online 24/7, it takes appointments, answers the questions. And as our partnership

grows, I think there’ll be even more improvements. It was the right choice for us.

“Our customer behaviour has changed, too, with more and more online booking.

Our phone calls have dropped by 75 per cent since we’ve been with Treatwell. It

makes a big difference for the guys on the floor because they know what times their

customers are coming, what time they’re leaving, how much money they can make

in a day. It’s a really reliable way to run a business.

“Many systems tick some of the boxes, but they didn’t have any additional value

– and the added value with Treatwell was the marketing aspect: new customers.

Treatwell does a lot of reaching out to new customers, and that means we have

access to them too. Other barber shops working with other systems don’t have that

reach. So, Treatwell gives us the reach to new customers that our competitors just

don’t have.”

22 CREATIVE HEAD


CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

Clean sweep

KEEP YOUR HYGIENE AND SAFETY FEATURES FRONT AND CENTRE

ANXIETY IS STILL high, so clearly communicating the efforts you’re

taking to protect your clients will go a long way to encouraging them to

book with you. Be sure to shout about the efforts you’re making on your

website and social media, not just when they arrive in the salon.

Treatwell partners have access to a detailed roster of hygiene

precautions and recommendations, as well as templates for forms,

guidelines and more materials to share with clients. Make sure your

whole team is singing from the same hymn sheet and knows how to

communicate your efforts in

person, on the phone and online.

In the know

TREATWELL ACCOUNT

MANAGERS HAVE

YOUR BACK

You’ll have your hands full with

managing the overflowing

demand for your services – who’s

going to be keeping an eye on

what other people in the area

are doing, or what you might be missing? Step forward your Treatwell

account manager. They’re constantly monitoring data for you, to see

which services are growing in demand or what would be the best fit

for your salon.

Pre-booked services are an absolute must, and if you’ve never fully

embraced an online booking system – now really is your chance.

Treatwell partners get the benefit of being listed on the busiest beauty

site in Europe, as well as having the option to create their own website

with integrated booking functionality, or the ability to add ‘Book Now!’

buttons to an existing site. With so many options available, Treatwell

account managers can help you to customise and adjust your online

presence effortlessly. Treatwell partners have access to a wide array of

social media toolkits and templates, so you can create bespoke assets

for your salon that appeal directly to your customers. With Treatwell

Connect’s new marketing tools it has never been easier to communicate

effectively with your clients.

Clock watching

ARE YOU MAKING THE MOST

“THINK ABOUT PROMOTING QUICK

OF YOUR OPENING HOURS?

Managing your team’s shifts is a

delicate balancing act. Maybe

you’re opening up for longer

hours, or on more days, to best

keep up with demand while still

limiting numbers in the salon.

It’s a tricky situation to be in –

which is where your Treatwell

account manager can help, by

offering advice and insight on how to squeeze in as many services as

possible. Tailor your hours to treatment demand – if colour demand

is still through the roof, opening up on a Sunday might be more costeffective

than adding on an extra hour in the evening.

Treatwell means that you can make money out of hours too, as clients

have a range of digital options for contacting you to book in whenever

they want. Now is not the time to be missing out on appointments

booked outside of working hours, so let Treatwell fill up your diary and

ensure your salon is brilliantly busy.

MAINTENANCE TREATMENTS TO FILL GAPS

AND TO MAXIMISE THE NUMBER OF CLIENTS

YOU CAN SEE TO BEGIN WITH. CLIENTS MIGHT

BE HAPPY TO GET A TRIM TO TIDE THEM OVER

AHEAD OF A LONGER APPOINTMENT”

Brent Mossop, owner of Bar Hairdressing

IF YOU’RE INTERESTED IN FINDING OUT HOW A TREATWELL PARTNERSHIP CAN BENEFIT YOU,

VISIT TREATWELL.CO.UK/PARTNERS TO SIGN UP FOR A FREE CONSULTATION

CREATIVE HEAD

23


MW

IT ’S

20

UNM

SUNDAY 29 NOVEMBER

7PM TO 1.30AM

PRINTWORKS, LONDON

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ISSABLE

CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED AND

THE IT LIST GRAND FINAL 2020

TICKET HOTLINE 01434 610940

2020

2020


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Bond, London

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Bloggs Salons Harbourside, Bristol

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MEET THE

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SLAYING IT IN THE SALON AND

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CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED 2020

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For a stylist looking after clients while busy building ‘brand me’

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CREATIVE TALENT

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Rewarding an original hairdressing initiative that has proved

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HAIR ICON

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Sally Brooks

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WANT

ON

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Rainbow Room International, Glasgow

2020

2020


2020

2020

THE RISING STAR

FOR A YOUNG SALON ASSISTANT

WHO IS ENTHUSIASTIC, HARDWORKING

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Paul Edmonds London, London

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Simon Webster Hair, Brighton

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THE EDITORIAL STYLIST

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Jack Baker

Bad Apple Hair, West Midlands

Lauren Bell

Nicholas James, London

Aidan Darcy

Dublin

Tom Gilling

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Adam Reed London, London

THE ENTREPRENEUR

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Baxter South, Glasgow

Brooke Evans

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Sovereign Grooming, Aberdeen

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SALON64, London

CREATIVEHEADMAG #MWIT20

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Gielly Green, London

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Huddersfield

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2020

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The Lions Barber Collective

ELENA LAVAGNI

Neville Hair & Beauty

MARK MACIVER

SliderCuts

HILARY HALL

NHBF

GINA CONWAY

Gina Conway Salons & Spas

SIMON HARRIS

Mysalonmanager

JORDANNA COBELLA

Cobella

KEN WEST

3•6•5 Education


ELENA TAYLEUR

Linnaean

MONICA TEODORO

L’Oréal Professionnel

MARK WOOLLEY

Electric Hairdressing

KATIE ALLAN

Mayfive

THEY’RE READY! ARE YOU?

BRILLIANT PEOPLE, SHARING REAL

IDEAS AND TRUE-LIFE STORIES IN A DAY

OF BUSINESS EDUCATION LIKE YOU’VE

NEVER EXPERIENCED BEFORE

RICHARD PHILLIPART

The Boutique Atelier

GIORGIA ROSSI

Treatwell

CHRISTEL BARRONHOUGH

BARRONHOUGH

STIL

GAVIN MILLS

Bad Apple Hair

ANITA RICE

Buller & Rice

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH


THE ULTIMATE

DUVET DAY!

A FULL DAY OF REAL-LIFE EXPERIENCES, BITE-SIZED SEMINARS,

PANEL DEBATES AND EXPERT THINKING – ALL TO HELP YOU

BUILD AND PLAN FOR THE FUTURE OF YOUR SALON BUSINESS

SEE THE FULL PROGRAMME AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SALONSMART

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It’s a slick event, filmed and live-streamed from a London studio by the Creative HEAD team

FEEL THE BUZZ

Conversations, demos, interviews – watch and learn in the most informative and interesting way possible

GET INVOLVED

Chat with the presenters and join the discussions, live and in real time through our chat rooms and video links!

ONLINE AND ON DEMAND!

All content will be available to you for another 12 months – so you can refresh, recharge and re-energise any time you like!

FULL PROGRAMME AND EVENT DETAILS AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SALONSMART


Lve

* Ticket terms and conditions apply – more information at creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart

WHEN: SUNDAY 27 SEPTEMBER

TIME: 09:30 – 19:30

LOCATION: YOUR HOME

TICKETS: £30 PLUS VAT UNTIL 14 AUGUST

– THEN £35 PLUS VAT *

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laptop or desktop computer. Your personal access code cannot be shared with or transferred to anyone else. You can

watch all the content live on Sunday 27 September, but it will also be available for you to watch on demand as many times

as you like for 12 months afterwards.

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH


FOR SALON OWNERS & MANAGERS

001-002_BH_Cover_Salon Success_16pp_GW11.indd 2 18/02/2019 10:18

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CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

MAGAZINE EDUCATION EVENTS INSPIRATION CREATIVE HEAD STORE COMPETITIONS

EXCLUSIVE

Shine, shadows and an editorial finish. The Berlin-based haarmacher salon creative team

confidently take their first steps away from street style in the glossy ‘Morph’ collection

Lve

SUNDAY 27 SEPTEMBER

Direct from her NYC apartment, Tina

Outen documents her journey learning

how to style natural Afro and textured

hair for creativeheadmag.com

Explore new ideas for your team,

business and salon’s future... from the

comfort of your own home. Introducing

Salon Smart Live

Could Covid-19 cause a rise in colour

reactions? Discover why patch testing

is more important than ever,

with PAINTER Casey Coleman

creativeheadmag.com

creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag


THE

THRILL OF

THE NEW

NEW PLACES AND SPACES, NEW INNOVATIONS AND

EDUCATION, NEW CHAPTERS OF THE STORY - WE’VE

NEVER SEEN A SUMMER LIKE THIS IN OUR INDUSTRY.

IT’S GONNA BE A HELLUVA RIDE...

THIS SUMMER IS unlike any other as salons and barber shops up and down the land work

flat-out to remedy lockdown hair disasters and catch up on all those missed appointments, with

no traditional August lull in sight. It’s busy, busy, busy – but we know you are loving the fact that

you can be creative again!

Meanwhile, of course, the hairdressing and barbering landscape has completely changed, with

a new way of working, new ways to gain education and a completely revamped calendar of events

to get involved in.

After months of anxiety, let’s focus on a little positivity and all the exciting changes that you

can look forward to: education courses, educators and new techniques; events and competitions

that were so sorely missed during lockdown, and new products and innovations.

There are also plenty of stylists out there embarking on new chapters in their careers, unsure

of what the future will bring but excited at the possibilities.

This is The Thrill of the New, and it’s the roller coaster ride of the summer. Come and join

the fun…

36 CREATIVE HEAD


CREATIVE HEAD

37


THE SHOWS

THE SEASON OF COMPETITIONS AND EVENTS MAY LOOK

A LITTLE DIFFERENT, BUT THERE’S STILL PLENTY TO GET

EXCITED ABOUT…, SO START PLANNING AHEAD!

PULP RIOT FEST

No Coachella, no Glastonbury... no problem!

The have-to-be-there festival of 2020 won’t

threaten sunburn or days of rain and mud, as

you can attend from the comfort of your own

home! Pulp Riot Fest is a digital festival on

23 August that will celebrate brilliant colour,

share techniques, inspire with a drawing class

and finish with a live DJ set. The stars on the

virtual stage include Diana Francis, Tegan

Robertson, Harriet Stokes, illustrator Tony

Green and a collaboration between balayage

specialist Sharell Halpine and ‘hair witch’

Heather Mackenzie. Your ticket includes an

exclusive kit that will be sent to you ahead of

time, including two tubes of Pulp Riot High

Speed toner, your art outline for the drawing

class and even a Pulp Riot beanie. But move

quickly, tickets are limited. @PulpRiot.UK

L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY

The longest running hairdressing

competition was due to celebrate its 65th

birthday this summer, but the L’Oréal Colour

Trophy UK Grand Final has moved to 2021.

Make sure you note 7 June at Battersea

Evolution in your diary. This competition had

already seen an incredible display of talent

at the photographic stage, with the Semi

Finalists revealed in the spring. They will

now compete in 2021 across the categories of

L’Oréal Colour Trophy, Men’s Image Award,

Afro Award, and the STAR Award for young

talent. We can’t wait to see what the show

teams have planned. lorealcolourtrophy.com

WELLA TRENDVISION AWARD

For the first time ever, hopefuls entered the Wella Professionals TrendVision

Award through Instagram and, thanks to a bit of a makeover, there are now

six categories – Colour Artist, Colour Specialist, Craft Artist, Editorial Look,

Men’s Hair and Style Master. The next round of the competition sees finalists

create a new look and submitting it online with supporting videos and photos.

“It gives us an opportunity to see the person behind the creation and hear

their passion in their own words,” explained judge Akin Konizi. So, while we

have no final in London’s Roundhouse this year, we’re sure Wella will reveal

an epic virtual climax. Keep your eyes peeled for details. @WellaHairUKI

38

CREATIVE HEAD


MUST GO ON

MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST AWARDS

Lockdown came into force a few weeks after the Most Wanted and The It List

Awards had opened for entries, so it was time to shake things up to ensure anyone

who wanted to compete still could. For the first time, both competitions were

opened up to digital entries alongside hard copy ones, and you guys embraced the

challenge with gusto! We received a record number of brilliant entries as you

used the downtime to get stuck in to sharing your amazing stories and work. And

a mere 48 hours after salons in England reopened, our A-list squad of judges met

in their socially distanced numbers to peruse the incredible work, a testament

to the reputation of both competitions. Thanks to their hard work, we now have

our #MWIT20 finalists (see the full list from page 24), with the Grand Final on

Sunday 29 November at the jaw-dropping Printworks, celebrating both Most

Wanted and Creative HEAD’s 20th birthday. We think we’ll all be ready to party,

don’t you? creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted and creativeheadmag.com/theitlist

THE ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW

The Alternative Hair Show is an iconic event

committed to finding and promoting artistic

hairdressers from across the globe while at

the same time raising much needed funds

for Fighting Leukaemia. Founder Tony Rizzo

has presented the show every year since 1983

and the 38th show should have taken place in

London… So if the world’s hairdressers can’t

travel to the show, Tony will deliver it to them

instead! The virtual Alternative Hair Show,

IMAGINE, will be hosted online on 11 October

by Tony and Alternative Hair Show global

president, Anthony Mascolo. alternativehair.org

GOLDWELL CREATIVE AWARDS AND

THE KAO SALON VIRTUAL EXPERIENCE

Goldwell had chosen 2020 to completely shake up its

competition format. The trend-based Color Zoom Challenge

was no more; this was the beginning of the Goldwell Creative

Awards, a new global contest to showcase unlimited creativity.

The competition is divided into two categories: New Talent

Colorist, Creative Colorist and Creative Haircutter sit within the

Technical category, while you’ll find the fresh Men’s Hairstylist,

Salon Team, Avant Garde Stylist and Editorial Colorist awards

under the Editorial category. Now the plan is for an even bigger

debut in 2021, but mark 18 to 19 October in your diary for the

Kao Salon Virtual Experience, a mix of live and pre-recorded

material where new ambassador Angelo Seminara will

unveil a new collection for the brand in a digital show.

globalcreativeawards.com, kaosalondivision.com

CREATIVE HEAD

39


YOU’RE A

REAL LIVEWIRE

LIFE MIGHT BE A ROLLER COASTER, BUT THIS CLEVER TECH CAN MAKE THE WHEELS TURN THAT

LITTLE MORE SMOOTHLY. FROM HIRING HELP TO PAYMENT DELAYS, IT'S TIME TO PLUG IN

AVEDA A-COMMERCE

Want to earn from online sales but can’t

face a website redesign or juggling stock

levels? Then the new A-Commerce

initiative from Aveda is for you. A readymade

retail plug-in for your existing

site, clients can shop for all their Aveda

goodies. It’s all managed by Aveda and

you earn commission. In UK trials, sales

targets were smashed by 58 per cent!

aveda.co.uk/professional

SAFERSALON

This is a one-stop shop for becoming

Covid-19 compliant. If you’re unsure if

your risk assessments are adequate, or

if your new standards are compliant

with the often confusing regulations,

SaferSalon can help you by breaking

it all down. You even get a certificate

upon completion that you can display

for your clients’ peace of mind.

safertrader.co.uk/safersalon

Here to support

UK & IE salons

Behind

Closed

Doors

TIMELY

Consult is Timely’s

free app that offers you

unlimited, customisable

digital forms to help protect

your business, staff and

clients. Timely clients can

access other smart services

including the ability to host

video consultations online,

limiting time in-salon and providing

you with a better idea of how to plan for

appointments. The latest addition to this

software hero is Laybuy, which gives you

the option to have clients stagger their

payments. With Laybuy you get paid

straight away, risk free, while your client

pays over six weeks – so everybody wins!

gettimely.com

PHOREST SALON SOFTWARE

While you may have been forced to start

working differently due to the impact of

Covid-19, it doesn’t mean that you can’t

work smarter. Phorest has a host of

features such as check-in notifications to

get around the lack of a waiting area and

push notifications for client check-in.

It also has digital consultation forms

that can be sent via SMS and email to

clients in advance of their visit, with

a Covid-19 questionnaire, too.

phorest.com

TREATWELL

Be seen and be supported with

Treatwell’s roster of connectivity help.

From installing buttons on your existing

website for easy online booking to your

account manager monitoring meta

data to keep you on the winning path,

there are so many ways to make it work

for you. Need help with social media?

No problem. Want some guidance on

dynamic pricing? It’s just a click away.

There’s also the open-to-all Behind

Closed Doors Facebook group, where

Treatwell experts are on-hand to

answer questions and provide a safe

space for concerns and comments

about the state of the industry.

treatwell.co.uk/partners

WELLA PROFESSIONALS

Recruitment was difficult enough

before the pandemic. Since then it’s only

become more complicated, but Wella

Professionals is looking to fill the void

with a new Facebook group. Aptly named

Hairdresser Jobs UK&I, it’s designed to

team up hairdressers looking for work

with salons that are actively recruiting,

where salons can post vacancies and

stylists can advertise their key skills and

role requirements, and it’s open to all

hairdressers. bit.ly/3eDx1wt

40 CREATIVE HEAD


CREATE YOUR

TOUCH SAFE ZONE

WANT TO OFFER STAFF AND CLIENTS PEACE OF MIND WHEN THEY STEP

INSIDE YOUR BUSINESS? HAIRDRESSERS AND BARBER SHOPS ARE TURNING

TO ENVIRO-SAFE 28 UK TO MAKE THEM COVID-19 SAFE

SALONS HAVE FINALLY emerged from lockdown, facing queues

of clamouring clients desperate to get their colours and cuts

seen to. But many clients, alongside staff, were understandably

nervous. Even if they followed government guidelines, would

they be safe from Covid-19? In a high-touch environment such

as a salon, with stylists working in close contact with those

around them, it’s unavoidable that some will be anxious.

But what if you could offer both your staff and your clients an

extra level of protection? That’s where Enviro-Safe 28 UK comes

in. It’s been busy helping salons by making locations safe with

an innovative ballistic virus killer treatment service that uses a

scientifically proven organic solution, tested successfully in UK

laboratories against Covid-19.

One of the main objectives set out by the government is

‘to keep the workplace clean and prevent transmission by

touching contaminated surfaces’. The guidance states the need

for ‘frequent cleaning of objects and surfaces that are touched

regularly, including door handles or staff handheld devices and

sanitising any reusable equipment, including client chairs and

treatment beds’. It’s a constant, consistent job to stay on top of.

“Disinfecting is only a temporary measure, and pathogens will

soon grow back,” explains Kevin Hannant, director of Enviro-

Safe 28 UK. “When we visit a salon, our service technicians

propel a fine mist of an organic microbe shield solution to

surfaces and common touch points, killing viruses and bacteria,

and protecting for 28 days.”

Yes, you read that right, the shield protects your salon for 28

days. The solution permanently bonds to surfaces and keeps

critical areas and touch points hygienic for longer, leaving a 28-

day anti-microbial protective shield that results in a touch safe

zone for all staff and clients. It’s something to shout about, and

could make a real difference to clients considering your salon.

On London’s iconic Kings Road, Lockonego chose to work

with Enviro-Safe 28 UK to ensure its team, and its long waiting

list of loyal clients, could return to the stunning salon with that

extra level of reassurance. “We chose Enviro-Safe 28 because we

wanted to implement safety measures that didn’t impact on our

customer experience and journey,” says co-founder Jonathan

Long. “For us it’s the most effective way to safeguard against the

virus without wholesale changes to our salon environment.”

Enviro-Safe 28 UK provides all treated salons and barber

shops with a window sticker and provides a certificate of

treatment, which shows that it is now a touch safe zone,

creating much needed confidence. Clients and employees will

know you salon takes safety seriously. Imagine what making

that commitment could do for you.

To get your touch safe zone or to learn more about the Enviro-Safe 28 UK treatment,

call 01603 579997, email info@enviro-safe28.co.uk or visit enviro-safe28.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD

41


STREAM IF

TO GO

FOR SUCH A HANDS-ON PROFESSION, BEING FORCED TO LEARN ONLINE

DURING LOCKDOWN INITIALLY FELT A LITTLE JARRING. BUT THE WORLD OF

DIGITAL EDUCATION OFFERS SO MUCH MORE THAN IT USED TO. STRAP IN AND

GET EXCITED ABOUT WHAT'S IN STORE...

ACCESS BY L’ORÉAL

PROFESSIONNEL

The Access platform has so

many options – webinars are

available from some of the

best in the business – and

you’re not limited by travel!

Learn social media strategies

from Redken colour queen

Samantha Cuisick, or go

back to school with L’Oréal

Professionnel’s Home

Academy series. A 360-degree

approach to haircare from

Kérastase is evident from

its Power Hour: Hair Fall

Reasons and Solutions. And

we can’t forget the L’Oréal

Professional Products

Division Hygiene and Safety

E-Learning, which covers

everything hygiene related.

lorealaccess.com

AVEDA BUSINESS

COLLEGE

When in-person education

was impossible during

lockdown, Aveda still

delivered a full virtual

programme and found an

even bigger audience, more

than 4,000 UK & Ireland

Artists. So why not enrol at

this hairdressing university

for access to a collection of

classes, events and toolkits

focused on helping salon

owners become sustainable

and successful. From

business and leadership to

guest and team recruitment,

this is a training and

development hub that

will make you financially fit

and profitable.

@avedaukpro

BABYLISS PRO

The BaByliss PRO Instagram

feed is absolutely chock-full

of behind-the-scenes content

and education from some of

the leading stylists in the

UK who are pushing

boundaries and subverting

expectations. There are

exciting #FridayFix tutorials

and takeovers from the

likes of Liam Campbell, Lisa

Farrall, Wez Jones, Katie

Mulcahy (pictured) and

Matthew Sutcliffe, and they

include the backstory and

moodboards behind each

and every look, not just the

techniques themselves. And

if you want even more detail

on what you see, the BaByliss

Pro YouTube channel is

where it’s at. @babylissprouk

ghd

A new three-tiered

education programme is

on-hand to support you and

your styling prowess. Led by

ghd global head of education,

Dafydd Rhys Thomas, the

enhanced line-up of ghd

educators now includes

Chlöe Swift (pictured). The

new-look education from

ghd will be delivered across

three categories: Salon

Essentials, which covers

fundamental everyday

techniques for each tool in

the collection; Trend, which

covers seasonal styling

updates and advanced

techniques; and Innovation,

which involves product-led

education for the latest

launches. @ghdhairpro

42 CREATIVE HEAD


YOU WANT

FASTER

GOLDWELL

EDUCATION PLUS

Goldwell Education Plus

puts world-class training

materials in your pocket.

The handy app is full of

education from Goldwell’s

talented stylists and

colourists across the globe.

Its YouTube channel features

bold colour transformations,

as well as subtle shades

and techniques to offer

seamless blends. And new

Goldwell global ambassador

Angelo Seminara (pictured)

will embody the brand’s

motto of ‘Creativity Never

Stops’ by setting exciting

bi-monthly challenges for

KAO Salon Division partners

and artists. youtube.com/

goldwelleducationplus

PULP RIOT TV

What do you fancy

watching? With Pulp Riot TV

you have so many ‘original

series’ on offer to inspire

you, your fingers will be

itching to grab your colour

kit. For example, In The Cut

follows Pulp Riot educator

Doug Theoharis across the

US as he visits some of the

industry’s most impressive

stylists. Short on time?

The Ten is snapshot videos

of 10 artists, showcasing

10 techniques all under 10

minutes. There’s also weekly

IGTV education, and you

can book free FaceTime

education with resident

colour guru and Pulp Riot

UK educator, Adam Stockton.

tv.pulpriothair.com

SCHWARZKOPF

PROFESSIONAL

ASK EDUCATION

The Schwarzkopf

Professional eAcademy is

available from any mobile

device, ready to provide

you with the latest product

innovations and salon

service support. ASK

Education is extremely

accessible, with videos

covering colour, products

and services at the backbar,

styling as well as visionary

hair hacks, tips, tricks and

advice. Our favourite aspect

is the quick, informal tests

which you can run through

after viewing videos to help

consolidate and assert

your new knowledge.

ask-elearning.com

WELLA

PROFESSIONALS

Wella Professionals has

opened much of its online

education up to all salons.

All you need to do is sign up

for a free account to access

complimentary education.

That means anyone and

everyone can enjoy colour

masterclasses from the likes

of Robert Eaton (pictured),

as well as helpful business

tools such as SEO for

Beginners. Wella is also

offering free personal colour

consultations via video – you

can book a slot to speak to a

Wella Master Colour Expert

for advice. And Wella salons

can access a handy colour

Profit Calculator.

education.wella.com

CREATIVE HEAD

43


“I’M GOING TO BE PUSHED

INTO NEW REALMS AND I’M

OPEN TO NEW EXPERIENCES…

TO WHO KNOWS WHAT,

I CAN’T PREDICT!”

IT’S ALL CHANGE FOR GUIDO PALAU, ONE OF THE WORLD’S BUSIEST SESSION

STYLISTS, AS HE BEGINS A NEW CHAPTER WITH NO BRAND TIES AND A

SHIFTING LANDSCAPE IN FASHION…. HE CAN’T WAIT TO SEE WHAT’S IN STORE...

44 CREATIVE HEAD


IT’S JULY, and session legend Guido

Palau is back in his childhood

stomping ground of Dorset, visiting

family and generally unwinding after

a lockdown spent in a badly bruised

New York City. He’s excited to be

within sight of working again, to get

to pull those famous fingers through

some heads of hair.

“This is the beginning,” he says, “we

start a new chapter, and everyone

can’t wait to get back to work,

especially creatives. I didn’t feel

particularly creative in lockdown. I

need to be working, to be around other

people, working off their energy and

connecting with my colleagues.”

And it heralds a new start for him

too. After 15 years as the global creative

director for Redken, he is now a free

agent. “It’s like a rebirth for me in a

way,” he admits. “I’ve had such pivotal

moments in that time, and I just don’t

know what the future’s going to bring.

But change is good. We’re creatures

of habit, but now everything is going

to change and we should be looking

at that as a positive. I’m going to be

pushed into new realms and I’m open

to new experiences… to who knows

what, I can’t predict!”

He’s clearly been itching to get back

to Europe, watching from the US as the

continent slowly reopened its borders

and started to tentatively feel its way

into the new normal. Work in Paris

and Milan is already booked. “There’s

actually been a lot of work I haven’t

been able to do in July because I wasn’t

in Europe, which has been opening up

much quicker than America,” he says.

As this slow move out of lockdown

occurred, he explains that “a lot of the

luxury brands had to create content

very quickly.” But that’s not to say he

hasn’t been involved, albeit virtually.

“I’ve been on a lot of calls, on a Zoom

meeting with Mrs Prada and Pat

McGrath,” he explains. “It’s not easy.

I had to direct one of my brilliant Italian

assistants, who was there doing the hair.

I wanted to reach through the screen.”

He continues: “We came up with

an idea and I then had to test the look

in New York, photograph and film it,

send it to Prada, then send it on to my

assistant and get her to recreate it.”

He admits it’s all been a little

“weird”, referring also to a project with

McQueen where the label was keen to

reproduce the hair from the A/W20

show for its campaign, and Guido was

called upon to digitally lead one of his

assistants present. “I hope that doesn’t

continue – I like to be there, to do that

final touch.”

That is now mouth-wateringly

on the horizon. A presentation for

Dior in July had no live audience but

a digital audience of 20 million. “It

was a scaled-down production but

still exquisite. And we took every

precaution,” he explains. “People

will go back to session with different

mindsets, different attitudes.”

In Europe, some shows are being

planned, such as an outdoor event

outlined by Burberry, a show that

Guido regularly leads on hair. “It’s

really exciting,” he says. “In general,

I think brands would love to do

shows and be creative, but the news

changes each day. So, at the moment

it’s fingers crossed that there will be

presentations and some small shows.”

But what will continue, and what

the new landscape will look like for

fashion and for the globe-trotting

session stylist in general, is still hazy.

With just weeks before the Fashion

Week circus would normally begin

in New York, everything is still in

question. “New York has been hit hard,

and I’m not sure what will happen. It’s

very tense there, and September might

not be the right time…” he says.

However, he is adamant that

because of the impact of the pandemic,

the “crazy political time” in the US and

the global protests fuelling the Black

Lives Matter movement, that “we’re

going to see some great creativity,

especially young talent reacting

to what’s happening”. He explains:

“Young people are more political and

more aware, and all of that together

will create a great creative moment.”

It’s all there, tantalisingly close. And

it’s the anticipation that is exciting.

“I’m not sure what kind of hair I want

to do,” he laughs. “I just want to be

more creative, to feel like myself.

I think I lost a bit of that in all this.”

We couldn’t agree more.

FASHION FORWARD

FASHION WAS LEFT SCRAMBLING TO FIND ITS

FOOTING WHEN COVID-19 HIT, BUT SOME

HAVE ALREADY SHOWN WHAT’S POSSIBLE…

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS

A brilliant illustration of a creative industry

finding a way forward, the iconic art school

curated a 20-minute film showcasing the

collections of all 106 graduating BA Fashion

students. Long-time sponsor L’Oréal

Professionnel linked students to hairstylists

to collaborate virtually. See more in Runway

A/W20 next month.

NABIL NAYAL

Revlon Professional global influencer, John

Vial, created the hair for images that the

brand shot for Nabil’s virtual show and

played as part of the BFC’s move to a digitalonly,

gender-neutral event instead of the

biannual London Fashion Week Men’s.

BURBERRY

The British brand has announced that it is

planning a virtual fashion show for its

S/S21 collection, with designer Riccardo

Tisci saying it would pay homage to the

label’s heritage of outdoor pursuits with an

outside event that will be streamed globally.

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45


PERCY’S

PASSION

PROJECT

IT’S A NEW ERA AND A NEW LOOK AT PERCY & REED, AS PAUL PERCIVAL GOES

IT ALONE. HERE’S HOW HE’S MAKING SURE HE HITS THE RIGHT NOTE

ON LONDON’S Great Portland Street, Percy & Reed has been

a mainstay for more than a decade. But those returning to

work nearby have seen something rather different. Following

the move by original founders Paul Percival and Adam Reed

to concentrate on their individual paths, this location is being

reborn as Percy at Percy & Reed. “What’s exciting about this is

I get to be my own brand, I get to be me,” says Paul.

Going it alone means he can bring his background in the

music industry to the fore. “I’ve spent 25 years working with

bands in the UK,” he says, and still styles loads of recording

artists and record company execs, as well as BBC staff based up

the road from the salon. So he now wants to push even harder to

make sure that his contacts knows he’s here. “I need to own that

space, that’s very much my USP,” he admits.

He’s returned to a salon vibe akin to relaxing in a townhouse,

a creative space. “And what’s really important is that the space

itself feels like somewhere you’d want to live, rather than a show

room or a clinical space,” he says. The exposed brick, Belmont

barber chairs, metal units that are ’70s relics scavenged from

Sony Music, it all represents the Percy ethos perfectly – there’s

history here. A sleek black shelving unit serves to put that

personality and the brand on display alongside evidence of

his new partnership with Redken; rather than regular hair

pictures you’ll spot a limited-edition print of David Bowie (one

of Paul’s icons) alongside a vintage record player and LPs for

clients to choose to play while reclining on the plush blue velvet

sofa. There’s no reception desk to speak of; appointments are

handled upstairs, with a member of the team making their way

down to meet guests as they arrive. “The idea of reception areas

is kind of done now in the salon,” says Paul. “I think this is really

nice as we make it feel like somebody’s at home.”

His personal passion is infused throughout for good reason –

he used the lockdown to overhaul the space with his carpenter

dad. “I needed to try and use the opportunity to change up the

salon. It was a gamble because we didn’t how long we’re going to

be in lockdown for, and trying to get supplies was a nightmare.

Dad’s genuinely one of the best carpenters I’ve ever come across,

and while I originally trained as a carpenter, it’s been a long

time! But there’s something really nice about the fact that when

I look around now, I know it was us.”

Paul adds: “I feel like I’ve now got a space and a representation

of my brand that I can grow and that’s the most important thing.”

46 CREATIVE HEAD


Photography by Harvey Williams-Fairley

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47


ROLL UP!

ROLL UP!

FRESH FORMULATIONS AND TECHNIQUES ARE FUEL FOR THIS INDUSTRY’S

CREATIVE FIRES. WHAT’S GOING TO HEAT YOU UP THIS SEASON?

BOTANICAL REPAIR

FROM AVEDA

Consumers are realigning their priorities,

to focus on supporting brands they trust

and products that are clean, safe, vegan

and promote hair health. So let us tease a

huge new launch coming from one of the

original innovators in that natural landscape,

Aveda. This September it will release its new

Botanical Repair collection, with plantpowered

technology to strengthen and repair

damaged hair. Six years in development, it’s 93

per cent naturally derived and uses molecular

plant technology to build bonds at the hair’s

core. The clever formula means three key

layers of hair are repaired and protected,

multiplying bonds vital to reinforcing the

hair’s strength and integrity. It’s perfect for all

hair types and textures, including coloured

hair. This will fly off the shelves! aveda.co.uk

THE KNOT DR. CASES AND KLEEN BRUSH CLEANER

We all panicked about PPE earlier this summer, with some stylists bulkbuying

cling film to keep their brushes safe. Well, we have a rather more

stylish alternative that clients will want to take home themselves too.

The Knot Dr. collection of detangling hair brushes is already a firm favourite

across the globe with professionals and consumers alike, but did you know

that there’s a clever protective case that’s easy to wipe down, and an exclusive

brush cleaner, the Kleen? Well, now you do. The cases are available as head

cases or full brush cases, depending on the range, and standard black cases

for The Pro and Pro Brite can be bought too. And they’re available in displays,

ready to retail alongside the brushes for your safety-conscious clientele. The

Kleen is a hard worker you’ll love using between clients, as the clusters of soft

bristles effortlessly remove all hair, product residue and dead skin cells from

the brush head and pad. PPE has never looked so chic. theknotdr.com

48 CREATIVE HEAD


Adam Reed London

PUREOLOGY

It’s a retail legend, the insider secret of

many a beauty editor’s bathroom. Firm

favourite Pureology has enjoyed something

of a tweakment, with enriched aromas and

updated formulas and packaging so that they

are also free from mineral oils and phthalates.

That means 100 per cent recyclable bottles

created using 95 per cent post-consumer

recycled materials. pureology.co.uk

SERIE EXPERT FROM L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

Just as the properly clever Serie Expert Pro Longer collection was unveiled by

L’Oréal Professionnel, we went into lockdown. So now, stylists are welcoming

clients back with longer hair, and many opting to keep the length. In steps the

body-boosting range that focuses on those final few inches to make them look

plump and in their prime. The Filler Concentrate, applied at the backwash,

serves a key ingredient in the Microtrim service available at Adam Reed

London. “Thin, unhealthy-looking ends are one of the biggest concerns for my

clients and this perfectly answers that demand,” says L’Oréal Professionnel

UK editorial ambassador, Adam Reed. “Pro Longer plumps and thickens ends

to look full and healthy.” lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

INTERSTELLAR FROM PULP RIOT

Going stratospheric in September will be the Interstellar collection from Instagram favourite, Pulp Riot. A permanent deposit-only

range created by educator Doug Theoharis, it’s the newest series in the Faction8 line in the UK. It features eight new shades and is

created with the colourist in mind, so you can alter how much developer you use for a result that’s truly individual. You can also

mix Interstellar with all of Pulp Riot’s High Speed toners and the rest of the Faction8 range. Can you keep up? Check out your local

branch of Alan Howard, Aston & Fincher, Capital or Salons Direct. pulpriothair.com

ENVIRO-SAFE 28 UK

You’re back the salon – hurrah! – and you’re getting the chance to be creative

again. But it would be understandable if there was a nagging worry at the

back of your mind about the risk of Covid-19 in the salon, even when following

all the government guidelines. Well, what if we told you there was a service

that offered a 28-day protective shield around the salon, giving you, your

colleagues and your clients that extra layer of protection, and a bit more

peace of mind? Yup, it exists – Enviro-Safe 28 UK sends in experts who spray

a fine mist organic microbe shield solution to surfaces and common touch

points, killing viruses and bacteria. The solution permanently bonds to

surfaces and keeps critical areas hygienic for longer. enviro-safe28.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD

49


JUST THE

TWO OF US

WHEN YOU’RE LAUNCHING SOMETHING NEW IT’S GOOD TO HAVE YOUR BFF

BY YOUR SIDE. ELLENORA DEAN, CO-FOUNDER OF FRY+DEAN, SHARES THE

THRILLS OF BECOMING A SALON OWNER WITH HER BEST MATE, BILLY FRY

MANY OF US can appreciate that feeling of wanting something

new, something fresh, something different. It can be risky to

make a change, but when you have your best friend by your side,

suddenly everything feels that bit more safe.

That’s the situation Billy Fry and Ellenora Dean found

themselves in; both looking for that next creative challenge,

something to reignite the spark. They decided to jump together.

For a while they toyed with various options (“I was even going

to move to Dubai – thank God I didn’t. Gingers don’t cope well

with 50-degree heat!” she laughs) and came to the conclusion

that to be in an environment they would love, they would need to

create it themselves. So that’s exactly what they did on Hackney

Road in East London, in a former florist. “After six years of

working together, and two years of living together, we knew that

we were strong enough to tackle the epic task of opening our

own salon,” she says. “I couldn’t imagine doing this with anyone

else – he’s my best friend, we absolutely understand each other.”

The Fry+Dean space is laid back, with a “living room” kind

of feel. A space that hairdressers and clients could both feel at

home and use as they wish; to relax, to work or to socialise.

Opening just before Christmas last year, Ellenora admits the

first few months were hectic but fulfilling. “We had prepared

ourselves mentally for the stresses to expect so that was no

surprise,” she says. “But what was surprising was that we

weirdly loved the stress because it was ‘our’ stress, and seeing

the results of hard work made it all worthwhile.”

After the initial anxiety over salon lockdown, that time shut

down became a gift to the pair (Billy raised four chickens from

eggs and Ellenora started renovations on a house, swapping her

balayage brush for a paintbrush). “We had time to revisit the

business strategy and utilise the time to create a future game

plan, which is something we now feel very grateful for.”

That game plan now is focused on recruiting staff to give the

duo time to step off the floor and work on the business rather

than just in the business. They’re also developing their own

education for apprentices.

“We plan to work now on expansion, growing the team with

more like-minded people and building the brand,” she says. “We

also have a fun new idea, but for now this will have to be a secret

until we are ready to launch our new concept in 2021!”

50 CREATIVE HEAD


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LEVEL THE

THE BLACK LIVES MATTER PROTESTS HAVE RAISED SERIOUS QUESTIONS ABOUT REPRESENTATION IN

THE UK HAIR INDUSTRY – HOW IS IT THAT IN 2020 HAIRDRESSERS ARE STILL HAVING TO CAMPAIGN FOR

EDUCATION IN ALL HAIR TYPES? CREATIVE HEAD LOOKS AT THE REALITY OF LIFE AS A BAME STYLIST

ERROL DOUGLAS MBE

ERROL DOUGLAS LONDON

Errol knows that this conversation is nothing new – but

it’s one that he hopes will now create real change

“When we first set up in Knightsbridge we had a lot of

opposition. We got the lease, obviously, but there were a few

frowns. People ask me all the time: ‘Are you Errol?’ when I’m

standing in my shop, underneath my name. You can’t come

out and say it, but it’s there, all the time. If I just dwelled on

everything I would be a broken man, but that’s not my ethos.

“I won’t let anybody hold me back because if you think like

that it stops you from breathing. We’ve educated hundreds of

people at Errol Douglas London over 22 years and

always encompassed everyone – Afro hair,

European hair, Arabic hair, Indian hair –

that’s how everyone should be taught.

“It shouldn’t be happening but you

can only educate as much as people

want to hear. People are people; they

don’t shock me because I’ve been

around long enough to know it’s

not going to hold me down. I’m

a businessman, a mentor and

a teacher – so I have to show

resolve all the time.”

JUNE FORBES

FREELANCE HAIRDRESSER AND INDUSTRY CONSULTANT

It’s only by discussing and exposing the diffi cult truths that

we can move forward together, says June

“Sadly, what we are seeing is a reflection of attitudes to

physical difference that have permeated throughout society

for centuries. Some behaviours are so ingrained that they

have become internalised and normalised by both the

perpetrators and the victims. To talk openly about it is

uncomfortable, because it often reveals many unacceptable

truths. Yet the dialogue is necessary to bring about change.

“One of the hard but sad truths is that while most trained

hairdressers of BAME heritage have always been ready and

able to deal with any hair type, if a hairdresser who does

European hair is able to style Afro-Caribbean hair, they

are often hailed as having a particular talent. However, the

same is not said of myself or many other stylists from my

community for whom styling any hair type is often standard.

“Salons can push for and implement change by insisting

that training establishments employ universally

experienced tutors. Salon owners also have a

responsibility to recruit more diversely and

encourage the sharing of skills. This would

lead to a wider distribution of skills and

opportunity for everyone.”

52

CREATIVE HEAD


PLAYING

field

SANDRA

GITTENS

EDUCATION

CONSULTANT

AND AUTHOR

Sandra has watched

in frustration as

basic education and

competency in curly

hair types has receded,

but believes mandatory

education would help

turn the tide

“Training in naturally curly hair has actually been

taught in the UK since 1984. When I took up a post at

London College of Fashion, we taught naturally curly

hair or Afro-Caribbean curly hair types. I sat on Habia’s

standards boards and developed training criteria. The

problem is it’s never been mandatory. Over the years

the education course content for naturally curly hair

has diminished, and now we have a problem. Many of

us fought to see standards that worked across all hair

types; but the industry has sadly regressed.

“Mandatory qualifications would help tremendously.

My frustration lies in the fact that the current

qualification is perceived to be more about hair typing

and identifying curl patterns, which we have always

covered educationally in hair characteristics. Curly

hair is present in all races, and therefore should not be

seen as only present in people with BAME heritage.

“All curly hair, regardless of race, is naturally drier

and requires more skill,

experience and product

knowledge. For this

reason, the inclusion

of naturally curly hair

should be embedded

within national

standards for all.”

RIANNA HENRY

FREELANCE STYLIST

Being under-appreciated for her fl exible skills and

encountering racist attitudes has become a constant

source of disappointment for Rianna

“For my Level Three NVQ I wanted to focus on textured hair,

but at the time I could only find two colleges in London that

offered an appropriate course.

“I wanted to make sure I understood the theory, not just

the practical side. I wanted to make sure I understood

why I was doing things, not just ‘this is how it’s done’. So

many people lack a basic knowledge when it comes to Afro-

Caribbean hair.

“I specialise in blow-drys, I love doing a blow-dry, but

assumptions happen all the time. Clients recommend me to

someone else, and when I appear they give me The Look,

the one that says: ‘Oh, okay, you’re Rianna’. I try to let that

initial reaction fly over my head, I’ve got used to it, but the

regular comment of “you do great blow-drys for a Black girl”

– the minute someone says that, I will not have them again.

“Then there’s session work, where I often find I’m only

called upon because there’s an Afro-haired model, rather

than being called upon because I’m a great hairdresser.

“But I don’t let it hold me back; if anything, it’s the reason

I fight harder.”

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53


The

makers

Change

QUESTIONS ARE BEING ASKED, HARD TRUTHS

ARE BEING REALISED, AND PROGRESS IS BEING

MADE, ALBEIT SLOWLY. THESE INITIATORS ARE

DRIVING CULTURAL AND STRUCTURAL CHANGE

#TEXTURENEUTRAL

Lisa Farrall, owner of WIG London, has been offering training in all hair

types since 2016 in an effort to teach stylists how to be #TextureNeutral.

Whatever skills you’re missing, she wants to offer a safe space to learn

“It’s not about skin colour; it’s about hair texture. It’s about putting

education out there, it’s not about segregating hair salons – I think it’s

important to understand that we’re not taking up space, we’re creating

space. This isn’t something that’s happened overnight; we launched

courses in 2016, I’ve been shouting about it for a long time. We should be

able to have that bonding experience in a salon no matter the client’s hair

texture or the colour of their skin.

“People shouldn’t say: ‘there’s not enough clients with Afro-Caribbean

hair in my area, there’s not a need for it’. Like learning cut and colour

in college, just because you’ve learnt it doesn’t mean you’re going to

become a specialist. It means you’re able to deal with any type of hair and

not turn anyone away. No-one should be made to feel that they can’t come

into your salon.”

TEXTURE MATTERS

Even as a newly qualifi ed stylist now at Blue

Tit London, Jem Bradley (pictured below)

knew there were skills missing from her

education – particularly how to work with

Afro-Caribbean hair. So she set up a petition

on change.org in the hope of making

textured hair skills part of the curriculum

for NVQs and the incoming Trailblazer

Apprenticeship standard. It attracted

thousands of signatures and the attention

of high-profi le names such as Little Mix

“The petition has been a long time coming,

I’m sure it’s a conversation a lot of people

were having with their colleagues or

thinking to themselves. And I’m sure

there are some people wondering why they

didn’t learn this hair type either.

“When the petition hit more than

10,000 signatures, the

conversation really started

to take off. From what I’ve

seen, it’s been taken really

positively. The petition is

simply to get that basic

level of education for all

services – it’s not asking

you to specialise. If you

have a newfound

love for it, then

great, go ahead!”

54


LET’S TALK ABOUT IT

The scale of change needed can appear overwhelming, but we have to

understand it to start, says Farah Khan, director at Benedict Hair & Beauty

“The most important place to begin would be to engage in dialogue and educate

ourselves on the problems BAME people face. We cannot dismantle or challenge

something that we don’t understand, and in order to understand it we must

open the door to conversation. We have to actively seek advice from those who

are outside of our communities, create a safe space to talk about diversity,

discrimination and understand each other’s struggles. The conversation isn’t

always comfortable and that’s okay; don’t let that stop you from starting a

dialogue. If we’re willing to listen and intend to change then we’ll defeat this together.

“We claim to give people the creativity to be themselves, but often a BAME stylist

only gets noticed for being good at Afro-Caribbean hair, when the likelihood is they’re

an all-rounder. Or someone like me, who is modestly dressed, will constantly be

judged by people thinking my attire limits my ability to perform. Everyone should

get the freedom to express themselves how they want, without the constant barrier of

feeling like they have to conform to social ideals of what it means to look the part.”

MAKE ROOM AT THE TABLE

Fair and equal representation will help to encourage permanent change,

says celebrity hairstylist Dionne Smith

“Before hiring an agency to manage my fees, rates were low, treatment was different

and I felt as though it was harder to get the same level of booking as my Caucasian

counterparts. When you do get those bookings, it seems as though you are only

booked if there is textured hair and one of the stylists can’t do it. I would say there

definitely is unfair treatment.

“There should be more textured hair specialists on mainstream films, shoots and

on the catwalks. BAME stylists should be given the opportunity to be more visible in

the press and more high-profile brands should encouraging us by collaborating with

us, including us on their social media handles, giving us shout outs, and sharing our

work. Our customer base spends money too, so I think it’s only right we get included

and not feel like it’s only when they need something specific they call on us.

“Complete inclusivity needs to be across the board and at every level. Hair is hair,

so if you’re calling yourself a hairstylist you should be able to style all types.”

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In times of political unrest the past can have a powerful pull – and it’s this

fusion of fond memories and future dreams that has inspired Newstalgia,

the A/W20 Trend Reveal from ghd and its UK brand ambassador, Adam Reed

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CLAIRE ROTHSTEIN

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58

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60 CREATIVE HEAD


HAIR Adam Reed for ghd. MAKE-UP Claudine Blythman. STYLING Ozzy Shah.

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Sam, I am

MEET SAM, THE STAR OF KEVIN KAHAN’S LATEST COLLECTION, WHICH SHOWCASES

THE EVOLUTION OF ONE MAN’S STYLE. FROM LUSCIOUS SAMSON-ESQUE LENGTHS

THROUGH SPIRALLING CURLS AND A RAMONES-INSPIRED BOWL CUT, THE STRIKING

IMAGES PAY HOMAGE TO HAIR’S VERSATILITY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JACK EAMES

CREATIVE HEAD 63


64

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CREATIVE HEAD 65

HAIR Kevin Kahan at Kevin Kahan. MAKE-UP Katherine Sykes at Kevin Kahan. STYLING J&B.


The final result

Blow-drying the hair

straight before starting

Meet Keira...

I did this.

A close up of the braids

In the

frame

Stuck in New York City during lockdown,

session stylist Tina Outen (@TinaDidIt)

wanted to improve her textured hair skills,

and kept a diary of her progress. See her full

story at creativeheadmag.com!

Prepping ahead

of the twists

SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us

a snapshot of your world? Tweet

us at @creativeheadmag now!

It’s a dolls house now,

with lots of different

textures to play with

Got to have the right

tools for the job

66

Getting those

sections spot on

Beautiful @iamdomrobinson wearing box

braids for @bobbibrown. I’ve always brought

specialist braiders to set with me, these

created by super-talented @1natashataylor.

Now I can fully appreciate the amount of

work this perfection demands!

Fingertips going flat-out

with braiding

CREATIVE HEAD



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