Adventure Magazine Issue 221

Milford Track
Milford Track - Image by Mac Gaither
I first walked the Milford Track when I
was ten years old. It was a birthday
present from my parents. I walked
it with my dad who was managing
the track for the Department of
Conservation at the time. Being a
child of Fiordland, even at that young
age I knew that there was something
special and significant about the
Milford Track. I would go into those
mountains and I would test my tenyear-old
self against mother nature.
But best of all, I would go with dad.
Four whole days away with my hero
in what I was sure was the greatest
place on earth.
There was no special treatment for
this little person. I carried my own
pack, sleeping bag, clothes. We
stayed in the warden’s quarters at
the three huts - Clinton, Mintaro and
Dumpling. I walked the full 53.5
km of the Milford Track in my flimsy
cotton shoes, along the “gin clear”
Clinton River spotting trout, up and
over the Mackinnon Pass, down
the Arthur Valley, pack on back,
keeping stride with dad. Stopping for
chocolate breaks along the way.
With the right preparation and
equipment, the Milford Track is
a great walk (excuse the pun)
for families that have had some
experience in the New Zealand
outdoors. It is a multi-day hike, with
walking times ranging from 2 hours
on the first day to about 6 hours on
the last day – of course allowing
longer for little legs. The track is
well formed as Great Walks are but
there are still some rough walking
conditions in places.
Be prepared for rain! Milford Sound
can receive up to 9 metres of rain
a year (Auckland gets about 1.3m/
year). Good raincoats are essential,
as are good hiking boots, a sturdy
pack and bug spray for the notorious
Namu, sandfly.
On all the Great Walks if you choose
to do it independently you will need
to carry your own sleeping bag,
food, cooking utensils (gas hobs
are provided during the Great Walk
season) and clothing. Nothing
beats the comradery that you find
in a tramping hut. I have always
experienced a culture of sharing
stories, food and space. There is
always someone to help if you find
yourself with a broken boot lace or a
bad blister. And although there are
no showers, there are a couple of
lovely rivers to swim in.
Alternatively, you can take the guided
option which has the advantage of
carrying less, hot showers at the end
of the day, home cooked meals, and
a well-stocked bar. This is certainly
an attractive way to tramp the Milford
Track and having done it twice I can
highly recommend it.
Either way, spend a night or two in Te
Anau preparing for your walk before
taking one of several boat transport
options to the head of Lake Te Anau.
On the last day you will be picked
up by boat again and transported
the short distance to Milford Sound.
From there you can stay the night
in Milford Sound or head back to
Te Anau for another night or two of
relaxation and recovery. And from
there you may wish to take on the
Kepler and Routeburn Tracks!
48//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#221
Above: The spectacular Sutherland Falls, only accessible from the Milford Track
Image by Samuel Ferrara