Jewellery World Magazine - August 2020

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Jewellery World Magazine

ABN: 41 143 385 895

ISSN: 2207-6751

PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570

P: 0431 844 903

Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au

Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au

Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au

managing director

Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903




contributing writers

Kirsten Ehrlich Davies

Stefan Juengling

Cheryl D Harty



advertising sales




6 News

12 Palloys Points

14 Trade Well with Rami Baron

16 JAA News

46 Keeping Skills Alive

48 Directory

50 New Products


20 Here's why you should buy platinum

This precious metal becomes more and more popular

every year.

24 Silver still in demand

A U.S. study shows consumers are buying self-reward

jewellery during lockdown.

28 White diamonds

Our indepth look at how white diamonds are faring

in 2020.

34 Profile: Unafraid of change

Craig Miller of JC Jewels embraces the disruption of

lab grown diamonds.

36 Detecting lab grown diamonds

A Perth-based company provides a comprehensive

testing suite.




This publication may not be reproduced

in whole or part without the written

permission of the Publisher.

Articles express the opinions of the

authors and are not necessarily those of the

Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or

service in this magazine does not indicate the

Publisher’s endorsement.

The Publisher excludes all liability for

loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false

or misleading statements that may appear

in this publication.

All information is copyright.

40 Proactive consumer recruitment

As the world changes, so do consumers. We need to

know how to connect with them.

42 Profile: Francesca Collections

Two Hobart sisters have created a jewellery brand

with a strong foundation in social justice.





Ellani Collections



jewellery world - August 2020

All Silver is Rhodium Plated

• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, 2020 (Homebush)

• International Jewellery Fair -September 12-14, 2020 (Darling Harbour)



Jewellers Podcast - back on the air!

It’s been well over a year since the beloved Jewellers Podcast was on the air.

Started by Linsey Houston from Social Story Tellers, the podcast talked to jewellers

from all walks of life from all over Australia and released 24 episodes since its

inception in July 2017.

Now back for its first episode since June 2019, the podcast is getting a facelift and

new hosts. Taking the reins are Laura Moore from Moore Events and the Jewellery

Industry Summit, and Brett Low from Young Jewellers Group and Deer Honey

Jewellery. The pair is teaming up to bring back the podcast, bringing with them

new guests and fresh eyes over the industry.

Laura and Brett as the Jewellers Podcast hosts are excited to start bringing

new stories of the jewellery industry to the podcast audience and hope that it

continues to inspire and connect members of the jewellery industry.

The Jewellers Podcast will be releasing its first episode on the 31st of July. The

podcast can be found via your favourite podcast player.

Serena Williams is unstoppable

Tennis icon Serena Williams, who launched her own fine jewellery line in late

2019, has now released a special edition jewellery capsule entitled Unstoppable,

with 100% of proceeds benefitting the Opportunity Fund’s Small Business Relief


This charity directly supports Black small

business owners who have been impacted by

the financial crisis caused by COVID-19.

The jewellery capsule comprises a bracelet

and necklace in sterling silver, each set with a

single diamond, and engraved with the word

Unstoppable. Williams says that the jewellery

collection “represents serenity and unity,

and is a reminder that your optimism and

strength are unstoppable.”

Hong Kong September fair postponed

The Jewellery and Gem World Hong Kong (JGW) trade fair,

also known as HK September has been postponed until

9-13 November due to continuing travel restrictions and

health concerns about COVID-19.

JGW was originally scheduled for September in two

venues: the loose precious metals exhibition was originally

scheduled at AWE from 13-17 September, while finished

jewellery and other related products was scheduled

for 15-19 September at the Hong Kong Convention and

Exhibition Centre. The decision to hold JGW in November

is to be a one-off arrangement.

Despite rumours that the event may still be cancelled

this year, the organisers state they are committed to

supporting industry stakeholders by holding the trade fair.

“We recognise that the spate of show cancellations and

postponements in the first half of the year makes the JGW

sourcing experience more important than ever for our

community,” trade show organisers said in a statement.“It

is the last global sourcing event on the jewellery trade

show calendar this year, with the heaviest peak selling

season just around the corner.”

ICA dazzles Instagram

The International Coloured Gemstone Association has

put its corona-downtime to positive use by revitalising its

Instagram account - thoughtfully providing the rest of us

with some dazzling gemstone viewing to help us through

these trying times.

The association

is also welcoming

collaboration from

members with its

Member Tuesday

initiative on the

account - so expect

to see your favourite

local gemstone

dealers getting


If you’re an ICA member and want to get involved, contact

Cecilia@gemstone.org for more info.


















jewellery world - August 2020

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US jeweller sets up treasure hunt after closing business

A US jeweller is about to launch a massive treasure hunt, having buried a total of

$1.4 million worth of jewellery, rare coins and other treasures in remote areas

across the state of Michigan.

After 23 years in business, Johnny Perri,

owner of J&M Jewelers closed his store in

the wake of pandemic lockdowns. Rather

than selling up their stock, Perry and his

wife Amy decided to create an adventure

so they spent several months burying small

piles of treasure in various locations in the


“We went through waterfalls, streams, we

kayaked everywhere,” Mr Perri said.

He is selling tickets for each Treasure Quest,

with the first hunt set to launch on the

first of August. The first treasure includes

two 100oz bars of .999 pure silver with an

estimated spot price value of US$7,000.

The finder has the option of selling it back to Mr Perri for that amount or keeping

the treasure.

“I was going nuts at home with nothing to do pacing back and forth,” said Mr Perri.

“Giving people adventure is giving them something to believe in again, besides this

COVID crap.”

Watch auction excels despite global


The recent Hong Kong Watch Auction X showed that

not even a global crisis can dim enthusiasm for the

vintage watch market.

The July auction netted $14million and sales were

led by a group of rare Patek Philippe watches.

The top ten timepieces sold included five Patek

Philippes, three Rolexes, a Richard Mille and a watch

by A. Lange & Sohne.

The auction was notable for the number of online bidders, with 93% of the lots

receiving bids from online. Bidders from 50 countries were registered - some in

person, some over the phone - but the majority online. A record total of 1,200

individual bids were received via the internet - an interesting lesson.

The top selling watch went for USD$607,590 - a 1982 18k yellow gold perpetual

calendar chronograph Patek Philippe with moon phases.

De Beers appoints Sarah Kuijlaars CFO

Corporate veteran Sarah Kuijlaars has been appointed

chief financial officer to De Beers Group where she

will join the board and executive committee. Her

appointment follows the resignation of Nimesh Patel.

Kuijlaars is new to the world of diamonds. Her previous

appointment was as CFO of Arcadis NV and, prior to

that, deputy CFO of Rolls

Royce Holdings. She has

held several senior financial

positions during a 25 year

career at Royal Dutch Shell.

Kuijlaars has a mathematics

degree from Oxford University

and has worked in several

countries, including Russia, Brazil, Nigeria and in the

Middle East.

Celebrity engagement rings

Brooklyn Beckham, 21-year-old son of David and

Victoria Beckham, has proposed to actress girlfriend

Nicola Peltz, presenting her with an engagement ring

rumoured to have cost around £350k.

The ring features a solitaire diamond in a classic

emerald cut estimated to be approximately 5cts, set in

a fine band of platinum or white gold. It’s unlikely that

Beckham’s fiancée is daunted by the cost of the ring –

Nicola’s father is US billionaire Nelson Peltz, who has

set a budget of £4 million for his daughter’s upcoming


And if Nicola loses enthusiasm for the sparkler, she

can follow the example of her future mother-in-law

who upgrades her engagement ring every few years.

Victoria Beckham’s collection of 14 engagement

rings includes the three-carat marquise-cut diamond

engagement ring with a yellow gold band presented by

David when he proposed in 1998, a pink champagne

diamond ring in a halo setting, a pear cut 17-carat

diamond set in a diamond pave band, and an emerald

cut yellow diamond set in a yellow gold pave band.


jewellery world - August 2020


The Queen Mary fringe tiara

The Queen Mary fringe tiara has now been worn

by three generations of British royal princesses,

as Princess Beatrice wore it to her July 18

wedding, following her grandmother Queen

Elizabeth and her aunt Princess Anne. Yet the

iconic diadem, designed by Queen Mary in 1919

in the fringe design popularised by the Russian

Romanovs, almost didn’t make it to the first

royal wedding.

When the then Princess Elizabeth was preparing

for her 1948 wedding, she accidentally broke the

tiara while trying to put it on.

“The catch, which I didn’t know existed, it

suddenly went,” the Queen explained in a 2011

interview. “And I didn’t know it was a necklace,

you see…I thought I’d broken it…we stuck it all

together again, but I was rather alarmed…”

Despite her mother’s assurances – “there

are other tiaras” – Princess Elizabeth was

determined to wear her grandmother’s fringe

tiara, so a repairer from Garrard Jewellers was

urgently summoned to the palace, and the tiara

was hastily patched together so the bride could

wear it.

Queen Mary’s fringe tiara consists of 47

diamond bars separated by smaller diamond

spikes, and set in gold and silver. The diamonds

were originally part of a tiara and necklace worn by Queen Mary on her own wedding

day in 1893 to the future George V, then the Duke of York.

Tanzanite miner becomes overnight


A small-scale tanzanite miner in Tanzania recently sold

two rough tanzanite stones - the biggest ever found in

the country - and became an overnight millionaire.

Saniniu Laizer scored $3.4m from the sale. The two

rocks had a combined weight of 15kg.

“There will be a big party tomorrow,” Laizer told BBC


Tanzanite is only found in northern Tanzania and is one

of the rarest gemstones on Earth. It is estimated that

the entire

supply will

be depleted

within the

next 20 years.

Laizer, a

father of 30

children and

husband to

four wives, said he planned to invest in this community

in the Simanijiro district in Manyara.

"I want to build a shopping mall and a school. I want

to build this school near my home. There are many

poor people around here who can't afford to take their

children to school," he said.

The miner didn’t expect his windfall to change is

lifestyle and planned to continue farming his 2,000

cows. Small-scale miners like Laizer need to acquire

government licences to prospect for tanzanite and he

sold the stones to the country’s mining


Gold price passes USD$1,800

The second week of July saw the spot price of gold smash through the USD$1,800 per ounce barrier for the first time

since 2011. At time of printing, the price is heading tentatively toward USD$1,900 - close to the all-time record of

USD$1,923.70 which it hit in September 2011.

Gold might be the only thing that has had an impressive year so far in 2020. It’s risen 20 percent in price since January, though not

as quickly or as steadily as some analysts predicted.

“Fears of further increases in infections and related lockdown fears have been driving demand and thus prices,” Carsten Menke, an

analyst with Swiss bank Julius Baer, told the Financial Times. “This suggests that short-term price risks remain skewed to the upside as

long as the virus does not come under control.”

Analysts at Bloomberg believe that a record close to the USD$2,000 is highly likely.

“We now think that it is a matter of when, not if, gold may set a new record high,” said Oversea-Chinese Banking Corp. economist Howie Lee,

according to the news service. “The previous record close of $1,900 is now in plain sight and we suspect gold might even attempt $2,000 before

the end of 2020 if the number of U.S. [COVID-19] cases does not abate.”


jewellery world - August 2020

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Chris Botha,

Operations Manager, Jewellery Division





What is driving the new unprecedented historic high gold price?

For six years gold languished below

US$1,375 but lately, it broke through and

since then it has staged a remarkable

recovery that has not shown any signs of

slowing down. A falling Australian dollar has

added to the rise, resulting in the Australian

gold price increasing over $A2,760 per ounce.

The current upward trend in the gold price has

shown no sign in slowing, further compounded

by the COVID-19 outbreak and gold and other

precious metals beings observed as a safe

haven. Professional investors seeking gold as a

potential safe-haven have been the main force

but ABC Bullion has seen a surge of interest by

individual investors as well.

The price of gold is primarily set in the London

and US gold markets where huge transactions

between corporations, institutions,

governments, and individuals occur. The

resulting gold price balances demand from

buyers with supply from sellers.

The price relationship between a piece of fine

gold jewellery and gold market prices generally

aren’t so clear cut. Gold jewellery, for the most

part, is priced for the creativity, workmanship,

and exclusivity of an item. Stock items such as

engagement rings, earrings mountings, etc.

reflect gold ounce prices most.

The jewellery industry operates on a “gold

price on date of delivery” model. That means

that manufacturers, wholesalers, and retailers,

don’t know one day to the next what their gold

purchases – or unfilled orders - are going to

cost. When the order is filled from a supplier,

the daily gold price is consulted, and the metal

is priced accordingly.

The last time that gold was trading at over

$1800 an ounce, jewellery manufacturers

started to move predominantly into the silver

and stainless-steel ranges in order to still be

able to appeal to customers at the lower price

point. Lately our office has experienced a trend

in increased sales in platinum alloy, due to the

increasing price of gold, also there has been an

increase in phone calls asking for the price of

gold for the day.

At Palloys, we have remained open throughout

the crisis, ensuring we are there to service

the industry. Palloys have been invested

heavily into streamlining our systems with our

sister company ABC Refinery, to ensure that

any precious metal product, whether it be

fabricated metal, findings, Casting or Finished

jewellery, is offered at the best precious metal



jewellery world - August 2020




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I am in the diamond business.

I am in the jewellery business.

I sell expensive watches.

Is this you?

I'd like to use a quote that I wrote in another

article many years ago.

A marketing guru was having dinner with the

chairman of Rolex. A friend of his stopped by

the table to say hello. The friend turned to the

chairman of Rolex whom he recognised and

asked, “How is the watch business going?”.

His response was “I do not know.” There was

a pause and clear awkwardness at the table.

How could the head of the most successful

watch company in the world not know how

the market was? The chairman smiled and

said, “Rolex is not in the watch business. We

are in the luxury business.”

Now, before you start shaking your head

thinking ‘well of course Rolex can say that,’ I

know and you know that you're not Rolex and

you probably never will be. So how relevant is

this quote to you?

Humour me and you will see where I'm going

with this.

You don't have to be Rolex to learn from Rolex.

You don't have to be Amazon to learn from

Amazon, nor do you have to be the most

sophisticated store in your city to learn from


If today you were to walk into your

establishment and ask yourself

how do you want your customer

to feel when they walk into your

store, workshop or showroom,

what would the answer be?

If you're not sure what I mean,

then I suggest you go for a

walk into Tiffany's or an LVMH

boutique. As soon as you enter,

stop and ask yourself how have

they made you feel? Maybe

nothing, but then I think you are

missing the point. You're focusing

on the fixtures and fittings and not

the overall ambiance, atmosphere

and experience.

I was sitting and talking with a guy

from Amazon. He was explaining

to me how everyone who works

there focuses on what they call

the ‘flywheel.’ This is a concept

where every employee is expected

to think about what benefits they

can bring to their customers. But

he also brought to my attention

that Amazon never looks to get

into niche markets. The reason

is very simple: they cannot scale.


jewellery world - August 2020


Rami Baron

President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia


They need to get into a market where they can

use their sheer size to grow. A niche market

is specialist and they stay away from those

because they understand that the resources

it takes to capture market in this space is

disproportional for a large business. Amazon is

not going to come after the smaller operator

and Amazon is not going after luxury. Amazon

is focused on price, and that’s a game you can

never win.

Let's refocus the lens.What does the luxury

business even mean to you?

In my view, when it comes to jewellery, the

luxury business means the ability to evoke an

emotion in our customers which creates the

desire to want to both experience it and own

at least a small piece of it. Luxury is something

we strive for. It is a feeling of being pampered,

respected, looked up to. Yes, deep down we're

touching on someone's ego that they are able

to participate in this rarefied atmosphere.

I will ask you to stop for a moment to

appreciate that luxury in the world that

we live in today does not necessarily mean

velvet lounges and gold edged mirrors. Your

environment could be minimalist. I might

need to enter three security doors just to

get in. Your showroom might be in a hidden

away location with the customer being sent a

passcode that they must use to enter the front


Ask yourself what would your customers

consider being luxurious? Maybe the word is

not luxurious. Maybe it's Dope, Lit (amazing

cool or exciting) or GOAT (greatest of all time).

Your definition of what luxury is may be very

different to your customers’ definition.

Is your offering luxurious in the eyes of your


What could you do to make it luxurious?

What if I said to you that fresh strawberries

are a luxury in winter, to some people?

We all know what a luxurious hotel looks like,

or do we? It is different depending on your

age and your mindset.If you stayed in a four

star hotel, but they put chocolates on your

pillow, fresh flowers in the room, fresh milk in

the fridge and few pieces of fruit with a little

handwritten card welcoming you by name on

the table, I would consider that luxurious.

I feel that we are in a luxury business, and

it’s all about how you make your customer

feel. The product, the diamond ring, can only

be re-invented so many times. Today, your

customer does so much homework before

they even come to see you.They often know

what they want, give or take, before they walk

in the door.

We talk about the experience, but to what

extent do you take that? Are you consistent

with this experience every time? So many

jewellers start off with great ambitions,

like the champagne bottle at pick up, but

a month later they forgot to refill the stock

and stop doing it. They didn’t have time to

write the handwritten note or call a week

later, with excuses like they were busy, or

‘do we really need to spend that additional


A true luxury hotel does not drop the ball,

and if they do, they overcompensate to

exceed your expectations. Imagine one

customer gets the champagne, but not the

next one who was told about it, but you ran

out. You won’t hear about it, but you also

won’t get their referral.

Luxury is all the above and more.

Consistency is a key element.

What do you do? Or should I really ask,

what does the luxury business mean to you?

and stay healthy

Trade well,,, Rami Baron.


August 2020 15



Jo Tory

As I write this, it has been confirmed that Australia is in its first recession in 29 years, as the full

impact of the coronavirus-related shutdowns affect Australia’s GDP. Economists widely define a

recession as two consecutive quarters of economic decline, the last being in Australia in March

and June 1991. The Australian Bureau of Statistics reported that Australia’s economy recorded its

slowest annual growth in more than a decade, though not all COVID related.

Given the Treasury had expected the

GDP to fall some 4% and instead

declined by 0.3% shows how resilient

the Australian economy has been, with not

only the early stages of a pandemic but a

summer devastated bybushfires and drought.

Many other countries have reported negative

growth by up to 9.8%.

A recession can hit all industries hard, the

jewellery industry being no exception. I have

spoken to many industry colleagues in the

last few months, retailers, suppliers and

manufacturers. Some have reported that

there has been little change to their business,

some have been significantly impacted, such

as those who largely rely on tourism or are

located in CBD areas, and others have seen

an increase in their sales, particularly online

and in manufacturing. Perhaps this is because

expenditure is staying in Australia, perhaps

because JobKeeper cash has been made

available as a business lifesaver as well as a

stimulus to the economy. It is hard to quantify.

Trading in the luxury goods market during

a recession can be daunting. There are a

range of strategies and approaches that can

minimise the impact on your business and

allow you to continue to trade profitably in a

weakened market.

Reviewing your expenses and re-assessing

your customer demographic are probably the

first considerations, and are a given. These are

of utmost importance. Other key components

may include retraining you or your staff on

objectives. Most buyers will now be priceconscious

so learning how to deal with a

price objection firstly signals their interest to

buy. This opens the conversation to hit the

emotional spot where the real trigger lies. It

is probably good to reassure your staff to use

these slow times to build relationships with

potential customers and to strengthen their

sales tools.

Closely managing inventory is always a given,

but it is critical now. Increasing the depth

of bestsellers gives greater opportunity for

sales and carrying a leaner inventory will

give greater flexibility to adapt to changing


Advertising and PR are usually the first things

to be cut in a recession. But consider that

your competitor may have the same mindset

and could leave a void in the market. A strong

advertising focus could create an opportunity

for you to gain a bigger voice, and therefore

market share. So, monitor your competitors

and seriously consider increasing your

advertising budget, whether it be digital or


Irrespective of a difficult economic period, you

must always have thorough understanding of

your financials and projections for the future.

In a recession you will most likely find yourself

forced to cut costs in a short period of time

such as days or weeks, instead of months or

quarters. Being vigilant and knowing where

you stand financially will avoid any hasty

errors. But keep your mind on the future. It

will change, and there are opportunities to be


The most important thing is to capitalise on

what you do best, and to communicate that.

Look for the challenges, not the threats,

andmost importantly, always remain positive.


jewellery world - August 2020




A drawing competition celebrating Australia and New

Zealand's jewellery design and sketching skills. The

Competition honours the diverse talent of local artisans

by showcasing their original and distinguished talents

in hand and digital drawing. Great prizes to be won.


J A A . C O M . A U / S K E T C H



In March 2020, Australia changed. COVID-19 put a halt to the way we operate. International

borders were closed, state borders were closed, entire industries were shut down overnight and

other industries were brought to a standstill due to the population being urged to stay at home.

You all know this as you have lived through it.

The JAA wanted to know how your

business has fared in this extraordinary

time. So, we have undertaken two

surveys of our members to understand the

impact that COVID-19 has had on our industry.

The first survey was undertaken at the end

of March. It focused on the main concerns

of our members at the present time and the

assistance that the JAA could provide.

The main concerns were around health

and the risk to oneself, family or staff being

diagnosed with COVID-19. Cashflow to pay

rent, staff and ongoing expenses was a major

concern, as well as the lack of customers

and the length of restrictions that would

impact the jewellery industry. Of course,

the economic impact on the survival of the

business was on everyone’s mind.

In terms of requiring immediate assistance,

the majority of respondents named financial

relief through rent and wages, loan options

and tax exemptions. Understanding employee

entitlements during a pandemic was also top


Given the overwhelming

amount of information

circulating, as well as the

unknown outcomes of

the situation, it was not

surprising to learn that 78%

of respondents reported

that their employee’s mental

health, as well as their own,

was being adversely affected.

Our follow up survey in June

reported that this number had

decreased to 47%. A testament

to the actions taken by the government.

When it came to navigating employees’ pay

and leave entitlements, 59% of respondents

reported that they were aware and could

manage, with 28% saying they felt at the

present time they had not been able to reach

out to anyone for advice or assistance. The

remaining 72% stated that they received

advice from their accountant, landlord, bank,

lawyer, HR adviser, as well as government


Graph 1. Percentage of members and their employees

reporting their mental health was adversely affected

The JAA was quick to act in response to COVID,

assisting members with phone calls and emails

relating to employer obligations in standing

down staff, conditions in which a business

may temporarily close, as well as rental relief

questions. Further to this, over a period of two

months the JAA has sent its members a variety

of support information covering hygiene

and safety practices within a business, rental

reduction templates, mental health resources,

Graph 2. In the early stages’ members received

advice from a range of sources.

JobKeeper and other financial support

options available from State and Territory

governments. As well as information related

to pivoting a business through marketing

and productivity and free industry resources

released as a result of the pandemic.

Our follow up survey, conducted at the end

of June, demonstrated that most businesses

had re-opened or never closed, or now

operate with restricted trading hours or

by appointment only. Those that have not


jewellery world - August 2020


reopened are

located in

high tourist

precincts or

areas in which


had not yet


such as CBD


Since April,

87% of survey

Graph 3. Since April, 87% of respondents reported


a decrease in revenue between 21%-100%

reported a decrease in revenue between 21%-100%,

with 21-40% the highest reported bracket. Furthermore,

69% expect revenue to remain the same or increase in

the coming months.

Sixteen percent of respondents reported that they had

not been able to access rental relief and 13% expect to

lay off casual staff in the coming months when JobKeeper


In a drastically changing business environment,

innovations are essential. Our member’s survey

showed that the most common reaction was to focus

on e-commerce channels, by either opening a new

website or expanding an existing one. Close behind this

was expanding social media presence. This was equally

followed by increased digital advertising and promotions,

moving or expanding into new markets and collaborating

with other businesses. Eleven percent of respondents

reported that they have made no changes.

The JAA is working very closely with members and

industry bodies to ensure it brings benefits to its

members and the wider industry during this difficult

time. Work has begun to engage with government and

enhance member offering, which will only continue as

we work towards a brighter industry.


Ikecho launched Solid Opal Jewellery range in

2017, and has been a huge success. Opal is the

national gemstone of Australia and is now very

popular within the Australian market.

Ikecho mix together solid opal and pearl into their

designs. Opals are extremely unique which makes

them extra special and distinctive as its very

difficult to find two opals exactly the same.

www.ikecho.com.au | enquiries@ikecho.com.au

Tel: (02) 9266 0636


Director, Chemgold




Many of today’s buyers are interested

in purity and sustainability. Rather

than valuing material goods, these

consumers prefer sentimental stories and

memories that they can pass down to their

children and grandchildren. Platinum pieces

pair perfectly with the aspirations of young

couples and with the idea of purity within

long-term relationships. As a result, platinum

is becoming increasingly popular.

Another reason for platinum’s continued

popularity is with its price at record lows. The

spot ASK price of platinum is approximately

$40 per gram. Although the global pandemic

might be behind some of the recent drops

in prices, there are several other factors that

drive these lower prices. For instance, unlike

gold, platinum does not carry monetary

value, but instead industrial value. Up until

recent years, platinum was used in car

manufacturing but has been replaced by

palladium. This frees up more platinum for

jewellers to purchase and sell, rather than

having to compete with other industries that

need the precious metal.

A major selling point for platinum is that it has

a natural white colour and will not fade over

the years. Today’s consumers are more likely

to consider goods that are more natural with

less processing and find themselves attracted

to the purity and beauty of platinum.

It is important to

educate buyers

on the differences

between white

gold and platinum.

White gold is only

achieved through

bleaching. Nickel and

palladium are the

main bleachers of

gold followed by zinc,

silver, gallium and

indium. Palladium is

preferred as typically

most skin allergy

reactions occur with metals that contain


Selling platinum to a satisfied customer is an

amazing feeling because it is a product that

will endure. With proper care, platinum can

last and protect precious stones for a lifetime.

The difference is that gold will wear down,

whilst platinum will be displaced making

a stone more secure in a platinum setting.

This feature appeals to buyers that imagine

beginning new traditions and passing down

family heirlooms.

Jewellers looking to take advantage of low

platinum prices and stock their inventory

should take care to find the highest quality

casting and fabricated alloys. Chemgold’s

platinum has incomparable qualities,

innovative material properties, outstanding

workability and a brilliant white colour. With

their platinum, jewellers can be confident

of its quality and zero allergenic alloys like

cobalt. With state-of-the-art platinum,

jewellers can cultivate the next generation of

platinum buyers that will be satisfied for years

on end.


jewellery world - August 2020


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A U.S. study indicates strong purchase intention for silver jewellery despite the pandemic.

Breuning Silver - Osjag

The Silver Promotion Service, an initiative

of the U.S.-based Silver Institute, recently

revealed the results of a consumer research

study showing pent-up demand for jewellery, as

well as intent to buy silver jewellery following the

COVID-19 pendemic and quarantine.

Of the jewellery consumers surveyed, 64 percent

indicated that they still plan to purchase the

jewellery gifts and self-rewards that they needed

or wanted during quarantine and 50 percent of

those intending to buy “just because” indicated

that the jewellery purchased would be silver.

across a variety of occasions (just because, birthday, self-love, etc.).

In commenting on the research, SPS Director Michael Barlerin said, “The

Silver Promotion Service was pleased by the quantification of pent-up

demand for jewellery purchases and obviously by the emphasis on

silver jewellery. Perhaps the survey reflected the ‘Silver Lining’ for U.S.

retailers as our industry moves forward during these complex times.”

The Silver Institute is a nonprofit international industry association

headquartered in Washington, D.C. Established in 1971, the Institute’s

members include leading silver producers, prominent silver refiners,

manufacturers and dealers. The Institute serves as the industry’s voice in

increasing public understanding of the value and the many uses of silver.

The study focused on U.S. jewellery consumers

mainly 25-40 years of age who have purchased fine

jewellery valued over $200 in the past two years.

Highlights from the mid-June 2020 consumer survey include:

Breuning Silver - Osjag

• The study completed by 511 U.S. jewellery consumers confirmed

pent-up demand for fine jewellery buying, particularly for respondents

who were somewhat or very affected by COVID-19, with a significant

percentage of these consumers indicating that they plan to purchase

between 1 – 4 pieces of jewellery.

• 64% of the consumers surveyed indicated intent to purchase the

jewellery that they were unable to purchase during quarantine.

• 50% of those planning to buy fine jewellery “just because” indicated

intent to purchase silver jewellery.

• Key characteristics when selecting silver jewellery were identified by

respondents as versatility, affordability, design and elegance.

• There is a high likelihood of self-purchase for silver jewellery indicated


jewellery world - August 2020

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KL Diamonds

By Stefan Juengling




In the midst of a global pandemic that’s wrought huge travel restrictions, massive unemployment

and business closures, the white diamond industry has understandably been affected with cutting

centres closed, order delays, and weddings and trade fairs postponed. With input from four

prominent experts, we look at the state of the white diamond industry, and the issues affecting it.

Pandemic makes waves in diamond

sales and investments

While most our respondents reported

some impact to their white diamond sales

and investments compared to last year, KL

Diamonds is one brand where business has

remained strong. Head of KL Diamonds Kalleh

Levonian said their current demand is for

diamonds around a carat and above.

“Engagement ring sales are still strong with

couples that have put their plans on hold now

ramping up to go ahead while the window of

opportunity to have their wedding is open,”

he said.

“We’ve also had customers

come in bringing their current

diamond to ‘upgrade’ and

purchase a bigger, better stone.”

He said this trend has gone

against the current pessimist

sentiment, but KL Diamonds

Engagement ring sales are

still strong with couples

that have put their plans

on hold now ramping up to

go ahead while the window

of opportunity to have

their wedding is open

Kalleh Levonian

has happily experienced the same level of

activity as their pre-pandemic sales.

Managing director of Bolton Gems Brett

Bolton said that sales of larger investment

stones have slowed down during

the pandemic, but they found

an increase in sales of large

stones which will be worn as

everyday rings.

“Up to 2.5 carat stones are still moving well as

the prices have come down,” he said.

Owner of Affection Diamonds Nirav Shah said

that diamond sales have dropped compared

to last year but investment has comparatively


“Since June, demand for diamonds are greater

compared to June/July last year, due to the

variety of stock available to us,” he said.

Vipul Sutariya is Director of Sales and

Marketing at Dharmanandan Diamonds, and

he said that business is slow compared to last

year due to the pandemic.

KL Diamonds

KL Diamonds


jewellery world - August 2020

Dharmanandan Diamonds

Diamond supply outstripping


According to a recent article published in

Business Insider Australia, billions of dollars

of unsold diamonds are piling up around the

world because no one wants to buy jewels in

the middle of a pandemic, and most jewellery

stores have had to shut down at some stage,

meaning that a key avenue of diamond sales

has been temporarily shut. Our respondents’

experiences were mixed when probed on

this issue. Vipul said that in Surat city, where

more than 95% of the world’s diamonds are

cut and polished, work

has been halted due to

the pandemic (which is

preventing stones being

brought to the market). On

the other hand, Vipul said that

almost 95% of retail stores in China

have reopened, and there are similar

reopenings happening around the world.

“Every major centre is opening up and trading

is slow but gradually increasing,” he said. “I

don’t believe polished stock is piling up.”

He also believes in a few months we may see

some diamond shortages reported in the


Dharmanandan Diamonds

KL Diamonds

Brett reported a similar problem, stating that

sales have slowed, but a lot of the cutting

factories have also closed, which is holding

up a lot of the stones from being sold in the


“We are also having trouble moving the large

stones due to flight issues and delays,” he said.

“This delay is also affecting sales as most

consumers are happy to wait for the ring to be

made, but want the diamond asap.”

02 - 92690991

Fortunately for KL Diamonds, even if the

oversupply problem were evident in other

parts of the world, Kalleh said they would be

immune to it anyway as they primarily retail in

Argyle diamonds, which are not in abundant


“(We) have thankfully

kept very busy during

this time, only slowing

down for Easter

holidays,” he said.

Affection Diamonds

felt that lab created diamonds have not had

or will not have any lasting impact on either

prices of diamonds as a whole, or sales of

natural diamonds.

Kalleh said that prices for lab grown diamonds

are trending down, at approximately a tenth

of natural diamonds.

“With companies

such as Swarovski

launching lab grown

diamonds, there

could be permanent

alignment of lab

grown with fashion

jewellery in the

future,” he said.

Affection Diamonds

Similarly, Vipul doesn’t believe lab created

diamonds will have any effect on natural


“People who buy natural diamonds are of

different a class, and their inclination toward

natural, rare and precious factors will always

be there and remain there,” he said.

Nirav was blunt in his assessment of lab

created diamonds.

“I think lab created diamonds will have a

small share in the market for now, and once

their real values come down then they will

With companies such

as Swarovski launching

lab grown diamonds,

there could be permanent

alignment of lab grown

with fashion jewellery

in the future

KL Diamonds

become substantial low prices, similar to

luxury products in high brands and their fake

counterparts,” he said.

In contrast, Brett conceded that lab created

diamonds have had a very large impact on

Bolton Gems in the i1/i2 price point market.

“I feel this new market will continue to grow

and expand for consumers looking for a

fashion item of jewellery,” he said.

“Personally, I feel this will not affect the

engagement ring market, and the lab grown

diamonds will take more market share from

other luxury products from the fashion


“We’ve had many

enquiries for whites

and specifically for

Argyle whites with full


Affection Diamonds

Unfazed by lab created diamonds

The advent of lab created diamonds has

arguably been one of the biggest disruptors to

the diamond industry, posing at times as both

a competitor to their natural counterparts,

and a catalyst for growing the diamond market

as a whole. However, most of our contributors

Dharmanandan Diamonds


jewellery world - August 2020

KL Diamonds

Local buyers should be

confident to buy from us

and we will try our best to

fulfil their demands in the

best possible value

Affection Diamonds

Advice for buyers looking for

diamond stock

The pandemic has brought its fair share

of disruption to international trade and

events, with major events such as the Hong

Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl

Show 2020 being postponed until 2021,

forcing many buyers to look local for stock.

However, all of our respondents embraced the

opportunity to supply and source locally. Vipul

said that in the

current situation

where travel is

restricted, it will be

great opportunity

for local jewellers,

manufacturers and


Dharmanandan Diamonds

“We have arranged almost 24x7 customer

care units to cater for all small and large

demands from all jewellers as well as local

wholesalers and suppliers,” he said.

Brett assured all buyers that Bolton Gems

is there to help in many more ways than

just supplying stock, with services such as

jewellery CAD and CAM, repairs, marketing,

plus sourcing of stones not held in stock.

“As we have a full-time staff member overseas,

we have the ability to view the stones before

they arrive in Australia,” he said.

“This ensures stones are looked at through

buyers eyes and not just sellers.”

Nirav said that since many fairs will not be

going ahead in many parts of the world, it’s

the best time for Affection Diamonds to supply


“Local buyers should be confident to buy

from us and we will try our best to fulfil their

demands in the best possible value,” he said.

Kalleh said it’s an exciting time because his

team at KL Diamonds are realising that most

beautiful things can be sourced locally, and in

doing so, they can support local businesses.

“We offer full service from making and setting,

to polishing and plating, all from our Sydney

workshop," he said.

"Keeping it local also offers our customers

shorter turnaround times and higher quality.

We’ve always believed that local businesses

need to thrive so that’s why we’re keeping our

prices as low as possible.”

He advises their retailers to keep their

customer base enthusiastic about buying

locally and discovering Australian gemstones,

whether that be Argyle pink, champagne and

white diamonds, Aussie sapphires and pearls.

Affection Diamonds


jewellery world - August 2020

By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies


Craig Miller has cut the anchor of tradition free and stepped boldly into the

world of lab-grown diamonds. Holding onto tradition is important, he admits,

but it can also be dangerous in the new world - because, today, the only constant

is change and things change every day.

As a second generation diamantaire,

Craig Miller has a unique insight into

what is essentially a family-oriented

industry. The diamond industry has a closeknit

inter-generational structure, based on

handing down knowledge and skills through

the generations. Yet, this structure also means

the industry is heavily steeped in tradition and

it can be difficult for the younger generations

to spearhead change.

“The diamond industry has always been

traditional and generational, often with two

or three generations working side by side,”

said Craig. “My peers and I would experience

some frustration as we had our seniors at

the helm, usually our fathers. Parents tend to

pass on their life experiences with the best

intentions. Their goal is to protect us, to limit

our risk through their own experience. Life

doesn’t always work like that and we need to

learn from our own experiences.”

Yet it can be difficult to strike out

independently, when everything you know

and love about the industry has evolved from

your own family. Growing up in South Africa,

Craig loved spending time at his father’s

diamond cutting factory, watching the cutters

transform rough stones into beautiful shining


“The shine and sparkle fascinated me,” Craig

said. “This is where my passion for diamonds

and their beauty began.”

It was a foregone conclusion that Craig would

eventually work for the family business. But

his first day on the job was not quite how he

had imagined it.

“I purchased an expensive suit for my first day

at work,” Craig said. “What was I thinking?

My father took one look and suggested I take

the suit back to the store. He handed me a

blue overall bearing the company logo and

directed me to a bench at the back corner

of the factory. That was where I spent the

next two years, doing my diamond cutting


Over those two years, Craig learned all the

processes involved in transforming a rough

stone into a spectacular polished gem.

“I learned marking,

sawing, cleaving, cross

working, cutting and

brillianteering, and in

the process, I became

obsessed with the

relevance of cut. I

always say that colour,

clarity and carat might

determine the price of

a diamond, but the cut

determines its beauty.

The cut is what creates the sparkle that

catches your eye.”

Next, Craig moved into the role of trading in

rough diamonds, often travelling overseas on

behalf of his father’s business.

“I had the privilege of working with some

exceptional diamonds, some rare gems I

doubt I would see twice in one lifetime.

There is a little rush of excitement, opening

a parcel and seeing that one stone that will

make you money, the one stone that has the

opportunity to yield something even more

beautiful than anyone has seen from beneath

its skin.”

In the late 1990s, Craig moved with his family

to Australia, establishing the family business

Miller Diamonds with his father and brothers.

Craig’s role was to travel around Australia,

selling the company’s polished diamonds from


jewellery world - August 2020

coast to coast

in almost every

town, building

his network of

industry contacts

along the way.

“In 2001, I


my obsession

for well-cut


by perfecting the precision of the cut. We

created possibly the first white diamond

brand in Australia – Passion8 Diamonds. Every

stone was cut to such exact mathematical

proportions, only 1% of the diamonds in the

world were cut to that standard at the time,

so this was a first to market.”

As the global diamond industry experienced

major transitions, the Miller family closed

Miller Diamonds in 2014, and Craig spent the

next four years developing and growing the

diamond business through Showcase buying


When he concluded with Showcase in 2019,

Craig could see that the market landscape had

completely transformed, and that he needed

to change with it. “Reflecting on my past and

looking at my future before starting a new

business, I saw a landscape today that was

completely different,” he said.

And it was then that he realised how much

courage is needed - not merely to start a

new business venture - but to stand up as

a member of the younger generation and

create change and spearhead disruption in

an industry still dominated by traditional

attitudes. A challenge compounded by the

fact that, for many younger diamantaires, it

is older parents and family members who are

still holding the reins.

For Craig, it was meeting and establishing

a close friendship with Rami Baron, a thirdgeneration

jeweller who is well known in the

Australian and international trade, that helped

him navigate the generational changes and

see the opportunities.

“Rami was able to provide me with insights

from his own experience on how to evaluate

technology, innovation and disruption

which are untapped opportunities for my

generation,” Craig said. “I also realised that

one can carry both product ranges, natural

and lab grown, and there is no conflict, they

are merely options. As long as there is full

disclosure, who are we to limit a consumer’s



with my

partners, we

have launched

JC Jewels, a

more modern


merchant or,

what I call,

a tech diamond company. We introduced

technology and disruption. JC Jewels

embraces lab grown diamonds – the disruptor.

My partners and I have brainstormed all the

untapped areas we could develop, so we can

ultimately help jewellers, evolve, grow their

own margins and utilise technology to sell

more. In a way, I like to think of JC Jewels as

a tech start-up – we use technology to assist

our clients, the retailers, to convert more sales

and achieve a higher margin, by speeding up

the process through technology, and creating

a better presentation for their own clients.

Every day, I ask my clients what tech we can

build to make their selling easier.”

Yet not everybody approved of this innovative

business model.

“My father was my mentor and teacher. He

achieved almost every accomplishment in

the South African diamond industry,”

said Craig. “When I first walked into

my father’s house with a lab grown

diamond, I was told to take it out of

his house and never to show him a

lab grown diamond again.”

Despite his father’s distrust of lab

grown diamonds, Craig was committed

to innovation.

“I chose to be open-minded, and took my

opinion from the consumer reaction, so I was

directed by demand rather than emotional

attachment to tradition.”

JC Jewels places technology and innovation

into the jeweller’s hands, offering lab

grown, mined and Argyle pink diamonds in

all sizes and mined diamonds.

“We are a global office for ALTR created

diamonds, the world’s leading lab grown

diamond brand. Recently we added the

diamonds with origin reports – these are

diamonds which are blockchain enabled all

the way from rough to polish. We also offer

the service of Sarine Diamond Journey, with

a replica of the diamond as it was found

in the rough before cutting and polishing,

so customers have a sense of how mined

diamonds evolve from nature.”

As customers have become more

discerning, it is important for jewellers

to be able to provide comprehensive

information and a range of options.

“With every purchase, there are choices.

We can help jewellers present their

customers with all the options and facts,

along with the information to answer

all their questions, so they can make an

educated decision and the jewellers still

make a sale.”

And it’s not just the customers who are

expanding their horizons and exploring

new options. “When De Beers launched

lab grown diamonds, my father called me

to say: ‘Son, bring one of your lab grown

diamonds over, so I can have a look at these

stones.’ He realised that if De Beers was

doing it, I must have been onto


August 2020 35

John Chapman

Gemetrix Pty Ltd




with instruments made by an Australian company

Advances in the commercial production of gem-quality diamonds grown artificially (also

known as synthetic, laboratory-grown, man-made, etc) over the past decade have seen

numerous instrument manufacturers develop equipment to detect such diamonds. The

demands of the equipment depend on the business of the user. Some users require high

processing rates for melee-size near-colourless loose diamonds, some need an instrument

to detect mounted diamonds, while others might need a unit that can detect lab-grown or

treated diamonds of any colour. Besides capability, cost is also usually a factor.

The general principles of the available

instruments are based on one or more

of: UV transparency, luminescence

(fluorescence, phosphorescence) or


A company in Perth, Gemetrix, has been

developing and manufacturing instruments to

assist gemmologists, jewellers and valuers to

identify if a diamond (or other gem) has been

grown artificially or has been colour treated.

The company’s director, John Chapman, is

a scientist and optical engineer who had

formerly worked at Rio Tinto Diamonds

developing systems to better extract, sort or

grade diamonds. A few years ago he directed

his attention towards a low-cost instrument

suitable for those in the trade wishing to

detect synthetic or treated diamonds and

who do not need high processing rates or

automation. Gemetrix’s first product was a

PL Inspector that is a small compact model

primarily for examining single stones. It

incorporates UV at a short-wavelength (255

nm) and a long wave-length (365 nm) with a

magnifying lens for viewing.

To test if a near-colourless (D-M) diamond is

natural, the intensity of fluorescence at LW

will be stronger than the SW. This provides

an effective screening technique and over

time a user can become familiar with the

distribution of intensities and colours of LW

fluorescence among a general population

of natural diamonds and be able to make a

quick assessment without the need for SW


A general guide to the fluorescence reaction of colourless

natural, CVD- and HPHT-grown diamonds for which

natural diamonds have a more intense reaction to LWUV.

SW also provides the ability to examine

phosphorescence. Diamonds that have

been grown using a high pressure and

high temperature (HPHT) method usually

phosphoresce. This characteristic is very useful

for examining melee diamonds, because such

diamonds are almost exclusively HPHT-grown.

A ring showing phosphorescing diamonds alerts

to the presence of HPHT-grown diamonds

With a demand for examining parcels of

diamonds and pieces of jewellery featuring

multiple gems, a larger inspection unit was

developed by Gemetrix.

Called a ‘Jewellery Inspector’ it has a viewing

area of 50 x 50 mm. When multiple gems

are in a single view it can become difficult to

mentally compare the LW and SW images for

each stone. To address this issue, Gemetrix

developed a smartphone app that allows

capture of the LW and SW images and an

ability to scan across the combined images

comparing the LW and SW responses.


jewellery world - August 2020

This model also has a special tray for examining small parcels of loose diamonds, particularly

melee sizes among which salting with artificial diamonds is notable. As mentioned above these

artificial diamonds will phosphoresce, providing a quick and simple test. For users who only wish

to examine melee diamonds and do not want the confusion of SW and LW, Gemetrix also offers a

‘Melee Inspector’ that only features SW.

For coloured diamonds and those having tints beyond around J, most automatic instruments are

unsuitable. For example, an M-coloured artificial diamond will be deemed natural by instruments

based on UV transparency. Most fancy coloured diamonds exhibit characteristic signatures if they

are either artificial or have been colour treated. For example, a pink diamond that fluoresces

bright orange is strongly indicative of colour treatment.

A ‘Jewellery Inspector’ viewing the fluorescence of a

collection of loose diamonds viewed with a smartphone

app that allows comparison of SW and LW images

While fluorescence can provide a good tool to identify growth method and treatments, it

is limited by the eye’s response in that does not extend into the near infra-red nor can it

identify spectral emission or absorption lines. Additionally, many diamonds may not fluoresce

on account of high levels of a particular nitrogen defect that quenches fluorescence. Optical

spectroscopy provides a more detailed analysis of either the fluorescence (PL) or light absorption

characteristics. Where the fluorescence excitation is a laser, the resulting spectrum is commonly

referred to as Raman. Besides the fluorescence emissions, a sharp emission (Raman) line will be

present at a specific wavelength that corresponds to the nature of the crystal lattice. Such line

can be used to confirm the identity of a gem as a diamond.

The Perth company has recently developed a spectrometer

system that combines both the capability of Raman/fluorescence

and absorption spectroscopy. With some gems, an absorption

spectrum is more useful than a PL one. Even with diamond, in

some instances the PL spectrum may not show a 415 nm peak,

however in absorption it will be conspicuous. Features such as

those that indicate irradiation, are present as absorption (at 741

nm) rather than PL emission. The Inspectrum system is unique in

combining the PL and absorption in a single system and additionally

it can record the absorption spectra with mounted goods, a useful

feature for valuers. This optical configuration is also suited for

analysing the reflection spectra of opaque stones such as jade.

Gemetrix has further instruments under development hoping to

release them during the coming year. Meanwhile, more artificial

diamonds and treatments are coming onto the market, demanding

greater vigilance by gem traders, jewellers and valuers.

For further enquiries about Gemetrix’s products visit


+61 2 8065 8533


Suite 5, Level 1

428 George Street

Sydney NSW 2000

A PL spectrum of a light brown diamond

revealing numerous defects (labelled) related

to nitrogen (N) and vacancies (V).


Sixty years ago, the Edox Delfin set the benchmark for dive watches.

In the 1960s, the Delfin

was known as the water

champion of the watch

industry, a timepiece

tough enough to run like

clockwork at crushing

depths of 300m.

Now, with the new Delfin

Mecano, boutique Swiss

watchmaker brings a 21st century twist to this legendary wristwatch.

The Delfin Mecano is forged from the same DNA as its brilliant 1960s

predecessor, able to function perfectly at up to 200m deep, thanks to

the Double O-ring ‘seals’ and the screw-down crown. Edox has given

the watch face an eye-catching makeover with a skeletonised dial and

movement exposing some of the intricate motions of the automatic

Calibre 853.

Whatever the lighting – or however deep you may be under the

waves – the Delfin Mecano’s display is always crystal clear, thanks to

the SuperLuminova coating on the hands. The

transparent case back reveals even more

of the magical world of mechanical

watches and this 43mm diameter

timepiece provides up to 42 hours

of power reserve. The 12-sided

bezel which beautifully frames

the skeletonised dial reflects the

shape of Delfin watch bezels from

the 1970s and is a reminder that

while Edox continually pushes the

boundaries of watchmaking it

never forgets its heritage.


Pty Ltd

www.searay.net.au - info@searay.net.au - (03) 9095 6070

Over the past 125 years, Swarovski has always lived by the values of their

founder Daniel Swarovski, and this includes offering a customer experience

equal to the brilliance of their stones. The Swarovski Created Diamond

program is your guarantee of this same spirit, trust, and quality.

Introducing the Swarovski Created Diamonds Retail Program

Showcase Jewellers introduces the Swarovski Created Diamonds Retail Program which allows you to

present this product offering in an exclusive way, while at the same time providing education to the

end consumer as well as giving them a choice of beautifully crafted Swarovski Created Diamonds.

Materials and resources to help you promote, educate and sell Swarovski Created Diamonds:

Laser engraving on 0.10ct and larger, visible under 20x magnification

Assortment six classic diamond shapes and 16 astonishing fancy colours

Pioneering Technology CVD (chemical vapor deposition) growing technology

Lab Report 0.70ct and larger are accompanied by a lab report from IGI

Quality Certificate and Packaging the consumers guarantee of authenticity

Presentation Tray professionally present selected Swarovski Created Diamonds to your client

100 Percent Diamonds “Lab-created diamonds are cultivated in a laboratory, but their quality, strength,

optical finish, and overall physical and chemical properties are absolutely identical to those of mined

diamonds, which grow over millions of years beneath the earth.

Swarovski Created Diamonds have all the characteristics of mined diamonds.“

IGI - International Gemological Institute, 2016

Swarovski Created Diamonds is exclusive to the Showcase Jewellers Group.

For more information on how to become a member so you can offer this unparalleled Lab Created Diamonds brand to

your clients and to learn about other exclusive benefits of being a Showcase Jewellers Member contact us via

Email: enquiries@jimaco.com | Phone: (02) 8566 1800 | Visit: www.showcasejewellers.com.au

Laura Moore

Moore Events




When the world is changing around us, to stay still is to be left behind. As an industry, we need

to consider and act on global and consumer changes, to survive and thrive into the future.

Each generation moves and shifts -

adapting to technology, growing our

understanding of culture and the world,

and changing based on developments in

research and understanding of each other and


These shifts take many different forms,

from the more widespread acceptance of

personalisation and individuality to awareness

and, therefore, action in response to the

changes we are making to our world and its


Generational changes are happening quicker

than ever before, with the ability to see and

react to not only the situations that directly

affect us but also the ones that affect strangers

from across the globe. In recent years and

months, we have seen these situations play

out before our very eyes, with some very real

and very established global issues and some

new ones, such as health pandemics we could

never have predicted.

Having these issues surround us daily, we

slowly but surely change our fundamental

needs and wants. Many of us are becoming

more aware of how our actions and choices

affect those around us and our planet.

In particular, we are seeing younger

generations taking action - and very seriously.

They are changing their lives to ensure that

they are the solution, not the problem, to the

world's issues.

These shifts in human

behaviour and interest

need to be understood

and recognised as we

develop and grow the

jewellery industry.

As consumers adapt

to new a normal and

their wants and needs

change as a result, the

way they buy and their

receptiveness to brands and products will also

change dramatically.

As an industry, we need to not only be aware

of these changes but also adapt ourselves

to ensure that we are ready to respond to

new consumer demands in the face of these


This requirement to understand our consumer

goes hand in hand with our work on recruiting

the next generation of buyer into the jewellery



As this consumer - currently not old enough to

purchase high-end jewellery - grows to an age

where they want to mark a milestone like a

relationship with something special, they may

feel quite differently about purchases that the

jewellery industry has historically been quite

reliant on.

For example, a 15-year-old girl growing up now

in an age where issues such as climate change,

gender equality, race issues and class systems

are being challenged, and the traditional norms

of a relationship are becoming the minority,

may not feel comfortable buying or accepting

a diamond ring if she is unsure of where its

elements were mined, how it affected the

environment and who was part of the process

when making her piece.

So how do we speak to her? How do we

modify our message, our supply chain and our

processes to ensure that when she is ready to

buy jewellery, she will want to?


jewellery world - August 2020


We have seen in recent years major brands

such as Tiffany and Co, shift their campaign

message to include all types of love. Their

‘My kind of Love’ campaign released in 2015

depicted their first gay and lesbian couple,

strongly aligning the brand to support the

LGBTQ community which at the time was

forming to advocate for same sex marriage.

The brand shifted their traditional message to

include and support their evolving consumer,

and it paid off.

Further reactions to the Marriage Equality

debate of 2016-2017 came from Michael

Hill and a plethora of other brands. Including

Australia’s Peter W Beck whose same sex

marriage campaign was released in 2013 after

recognising the shift in trend and demand for

‘His and His’ wedding bands.

But it’s not just the changes in relationship

status that require the jewellery industry

to sit up and take notice. Major jewellery

brands have adjusted their models to factor in

environmental causes and equality.

production. The company is now also focusing

on conservation of the environment and


In March 2018, Breitling launched a

partnership with Ocean Conservancy, teaming

up on a mission to clean, protect and conserve

oceans and beaches.

Watch brand TIVC -

Time IV Change - is a

vegan friendly brand,

clearly targeting

the significant

shift in clean and


neutral eating.

What will be the

next humanitarian

shift that will require the jewellery industry

to react? And perhaps rather than react,

why don’t we act? Brands and businesses

that actively stand for humanitarian and

environmental causes are shown to gain more

trust from their consumer, especially younger

generations who are actively seeking out

brands who stand for something.

What do we do?

As participants in this industry, large or small,

it is not only our responsibility to make good

choices for our consumer, but to convey that

message and intention when recruiting new


As consumers continue to be more aware

of their impact on the environment and the

world around them, they will seek to change

their behaviour to ensure that whatever

their actions, that they will have a neutral or

positive effect on the world.



on our part,





waste, and

manufacturing locally, means that when that

15-year-old is ready to buy jewellery, she will

not only want to, she will be proud to!

The Environment

Over many decades, De Beers has led the way

in changing the way the diamond industry

sources stones and minimises its involvement

in conflict diamonds. Partnering with the

World Diamond Council and supporting the

Kimberly process, De Beers continues to be

a leader, pushing the industry to be more

mindful and to take action around diamond

August 2020 41

By Cheryl D. Harty




Two sisters have created a jewellery label that appeals not only

through its contemporary aesthetic and bespoke individuality, but

an empowering ‘giving back’ purpose. A core tenet of the Francesca

Collections brand is that “success means nothing unless you are giving back.” Over the past

four years, the company has donated over $350,000 to charities Australia-wide.

Hannah and Rachel Vasicek grew up in

a small coastal town in NSW, where

Francesca owner and co-founder,

Hannah, attended beading classes and taught

herself different techniques as a teen. As her

younger sibling by five years, Rachel watched

her as she made pieces and learned from

Hannah the craft of making jewellery.

A family move to Tasmania followed and

in 2011, 16 year old Hannah began selling

various pieces under the brand ‘Handmade

by Hannah’ every Saturday at the popular

waterfront Salamanca Market in Hobart.

The jewellery stall was a creative sideline for

Hannah as she studied Science and Law at


Once her schooling

was completed,

Rachel joined her

sister in 2013 and

together they

worked full-time

on the jewellery

business. Hannah

took care of the

business side of

the brand while Rachel handled the creative

aspect. As demand for the jewellery grew,

Hannah rebranded the range, Francesca

Collections, with the range including

handmade bracelets and classic inspired

pieces for mid 40 plus women.

The growth of the business saw Hannah

Vasicek win a Global Student Entrepreneur

Award for Australia in 2013. It marked a

turning point that saw her realise that her

jewellery passion could be a serious career,

and she put her legal ambitions aside.

The Francesca brand is a fusion of both sisters’

contrasting styles using gold, sterling silver

and natural stones. Combining design with

an empowering

purpose and


connection, the

brand’s designs

have evolved to

be a lot more


and fashion

focused since

its beginnings.

Included in the Francesca offer today are

necklaces, earrings, rings, bracelets, bridal

jewellery, engagement rings and watches.

The popular bracelet stacks - known as Franc

Stacks - are handmade in the Hobart studio

using natural gemstones that have unique


jewellery world - August 2020

healing properties, such as Agate, the stone

of strength and Moonstone, the stone of

hope. Pearls also used and the bracelets have

findings of rose gold, yellow gold, and silver.

Stack bracelets are purchased and worn alone

or in varied combinations and have been a

popular line for the brand.

Three years ago, the sisters decided to focus

on more meaning in their pieces and this

led to the inception of the Francesca Create

collection. This collection enables customers

to design a piece of jewellery themselves

through an extensive charm collection, with

each design holding a unique quote meaning.

“Since introducing this collection the brand

has seen exponential growth, with a very loyal

customer base who collect the pieces for their

meaning. Our Firenze Collection has definitely

been one of our most striking collections.

When you look at the statement earrings

from that collection and connect the design

features with the architecture of the Duomo,

it is very special,” Francesca Collections

Creative Director, Rachel Vasicek said.

She pointed out the release of collections in

the past two years has been slowed down a

lot to allow the brand to design a single standout

range for the year, accompanied by lots of

smaller capsule collections. Last year's hero

collection was ‘Firenze,’ which showcased

designs inspired by the Duomo in Florence,

and recreated family heirlooms.

The sisters believe in Francesca keeping its

price point fair for its customers. “We only

work with solid sterling silver, gold filled or

18k gold plating at 3 microns thickness, so

considering the quality we are very reasonably

priced,” Rachel said.

Quality, unique design and desire to give

meaning is Francesca’s greatest point of

difference, she noted. “Our brand identity has

become a lot clearer and so have the values

the brand stands for. We have evolved mostly

in the public eye as being a brand that is more

than just a company that sells jewellery.

Fifty per cent of Francesca jewellery is

made in the Hobart studio and is comprised

mainly of its iconic semi-precious stacking

bracelets. “We love that we have been able to

modernise the love we have for natural stones

by creating this range,” Rachel said.

Among the brand’s latest innovations is a

patented charm design that allows customers

to easily connect and interchange their charm

to a bracelet or necklace without needing


We have evolved

mostly in the public

eye as being a brand

that is more than

just a company that

sells jewellery.

August 2020 43

Success means

nothing unless you

are giving back.

Francesca currently has 40 employees

ranging from retail staff to online dispatch,

creatives and jewellery makers. “From the

very beginning we have been passionate

about keeping a lot of what we do in-house

rather than outsourcing skills, allowing our

team to constantly upskill. So everything from

our product photography, website, dispatch

and graphics, is all done in our Hobart


An online store has seen exponential growth

for the brand in the last few years and has

enabled the designers to connect with new

customers on a global scale. The bricks

and mortar retail presence has also grown

stronger with the opening of the Francesca

flagship store in the Cat & Fiddle Arcade,

Hobart in 2017, four years after the brand’s

first tiny retail outlet opened on the outskirts

of the city.

In 2016, a store opened in Melbourne

Central and has since undergone a major

refurbishment. Following the refresh, the

store reopened as another flagship store

for the brand in 2019. The brand is also sold

through pop ups from time to time. “We

absolutely love connecting with our customers

and our stores give them the Francesca

experience that can often be hard to convey

online,” Rachel, who has driven the digital

marketing, design and operations of the

business as it has expanded across Australia,


Self-taught, Rachel educated herself in

branding and marketing out of necessity

during Francesca’s early days. Since then, she

has grown her skillset across other business

functions, including project management and

growth strategy. In recent years, the Francesca

brand has employed a team of non-English

speaking refugee women and will soon shoot

its first international campaign.

The “success means nothing unless you are

giving back” ethos has been a fundamental

value for Hannah and Rachel personally. “It

was crucial that our business had an avenue

for giving back. Four years ago we launched

our ‘Awareness Bracelet’ that donates and

creates awareness for a different charity every

month. In that time we have donated over

$350k to charities Australia wide with our

largest donation being $100,000 in January

for the Australian bushfire crisis,” Rachel


Telstra, the nation’s leading

telecommunication company, has

acknowledged the business acumen of the

Vasicek sisters and their jewellery brand. In

2014, Hannah was a Telstra Micro Business of

the Year finalist and the following

year, Francesca Collections was

named the 2015 Tasmanian Telstra

Business of the Year. In May, Rachel

won the 2020 Telstra Tasmanian

Business Women’s Emerging Leader


“The awards are an incredible

opportunity to reflect on what

you have achieved and are a nice

form of recognition. It can often

be lonely when you’re at the top

of the business driving the brand's

development, and there’s not

often someone there to give you

a pat on the back. The awards are

a really nice reflection of time and

achievements,” Rachel commented.

Both sisters attend the world

jewellery fair every year in Hong

Kong to find suppliers for their

casted designs and packaging as well

as hand selecting a year's worth of

stones. In recent times, however,

they found that some of their manufacturers

in Hong Kong had closed their studios.

“This didn’t impact us a great deal as we

focused a lot more on designs we could make

and release from our Hobart studio. It was a

time for me as the designer to get a lot more

creative and I adapted designs we already

had to make them new again. This was a very

refreshing process and inspired us to continue

to innovate here in Australia more,” Rachel


In their continued quest to give meaning

to jewellery, the Vasicek sisters want the

Francesca brand to focus more on sharing

stories. “We often have customers share their

personal stories with us and why they chose

certain pieces and we think that is a really

powerful avenue to focus on,” Rachel said.

“Our big dream is to create the ‘Francesca

Foundation’ as our direct charitable route.”


jewellery world - August 2020

Jewellery Centre


ITALIAN sterling silver


More styles available

Osjag | PO Box 4420 | North Rocks, NSW 2151 | +61 2 9630 6619

admin@osjag.com | www.osjag.com

07 3221 3838


Wholesale & Fine Jewellery

Importers Brisbane, AUSTRALIA


How to make a Traditional Solitaire Ring

This tutorial demonstrates how to make a classic Solitaire Ring.

This project has been used as an apprentice bench test for

over 50 years and many old school goldsmiths will recognise

this as a benchmark test for apprentices. The skills are still

essential for today’s jeweller and requires advanced soldering

and fabrication skills making it an ideal test for advanced

apprentices and online learners.

1The materials needed for this project

are 6.5mm round CZ and 30mm x

4.5mm x 4.5mm stock gauge sterling

silver. Roll the silver to 3mm square and

cut off a 20mm section to form the setting.

Roll through the flat rolls to 1.1mm thick

making sure that the width is no less than

6mm. This will require some creative angle

and width rolling.

2Calculate the length required for the

setting. Cut and square off the ends.

Anneal the strip and form into a round

bezel. You can use round nose pliers

and parallel pliers to bring the ends together.

Hammer the bezel into your 17° bezel block.

Do not use the punch at this stage. Turn it

over and hammer the other end until the

joint tightens. The bezel may look deformed,

but final shaping will be done once it is


3To ensure you have a clean tight joint,

you may need to cut through with a

saw blade and re-tighten in the block

before hard soldering.

Hammer the bezel into the 9mm hole and

once the bezel top is flush with the top of

the block insert the punch and finish off the

forming. You will need to be forceful. You

will also notice that silver flashing will form

around the outer edge. Cut this off, anneal

and check that your stone sits on the inside

edge of the setting without dropping in.


The top and sides of the setting will be

angled perfectly but the bottom of the

setting will have become distorted,

so carefully file it flat, making sure it

is perfectly parallel to the top. The height of

the setting should be around 8mm. If not,

perform more aggressive hammering in the

block, then cut off 2mm from the bottom.

This will become the under bezel later.

Mark on the top of the bezel for 6 x 2mm

wide perfectly positioned claws.

5Mark a guideline halfway down the

setting and use a 4/0 or 5/0 blade to

cut down from the claw markings. Cut

at a 45°angle until you contact the

guideline, then angle cut across to take the

sections between the claws out. Use a round

needle file to shape the bottom of the drape

cut. You could also use a round bur but try to

use traditional skills. The old-school way to

hold the setting as you work is to use shellac

on a piece of wood doweling or a pencil.


Now turn the setting over. Line your

saw blade up with the centre of

the claws and cut from the bottom

at 45° to the halfway mark. Use a

three-square needle file to open the cut at

the bottom. This creates the classic organ pipe

effect once it has been rounded off.

Remove all the scratches and tool marks with

emery paper and use a bush mop to polish

the bottom of the setting ready for the under

bezel attachment.


jewellery world - August 2020


The small bezel that you prepared

earlier will need to be formed further

in the bezel block to make it a little

higher and thinner. Prepare the top

surfacefor polishing, then solder it to the

bottom of the setting. Ensure it is positioned

perfectly and use minimal solder, otherwise

you may flood the triangular gaps. Pickle to

remove the oxides.

Now you can turn your attention to the

ring shank. Roll the remaining silver to

approximately 2.8mm x 2mm and cut it down

to 50mm.


Anneal the strip and bend it into a ring

shape. The ring finger size will be very

small, but it will increase in size later.

Solder, using hard grade.

Start the forging by hammering the opposite

side to the solder joint. Reduce the thickness

to around 1.8mm and the width to 3mm.

Forge the joint side on a flat stake to reduce

the width and build up the thicknessat the top

to approximately 2.7mm thick x 2mm wide.

The dimension will reduce a little more once

you have filled and emery cleaned off the

dents and tool marks.


Set your dividers to just over 1mm

and scribe a 10mm line from the inside

edge of the top of the ring. The solder

joint should be in the middle.

Cut from the solder joint on top of the ring

down to the line and carefully turn the saw

cut 90° to cut along the scribe line. Cut both

sides ensuring that your saw cutting stays

directly on the scribe line.


Prise the shoulders open with

a pen knife until you can grab

them with your chain nose

pliers. Bend the shoulders up

into a nice sweeping curve, making sure they

are symmetrical. Place the setting against the

ring and mark off along the under bezel. Cut

out the rail section so that the setting fits into

the gap. You may need to trim off parts of the

shoulder ends so that the four joints all make

contact and the setting is lined up perfectly.

11components together. Flux and use

Once the setting fits and is lined

up perfectly with no joint gaps,

use binding wire to hold the two

the minimum amount of medium grade solder

on the joints. It is recommended that you

solder one joint first, allow to cool, then check

that the components are correctly lined up

before finishing the solder operation.

The traditional way to dress open shoulders is

to solder a small section of chenier tube into

them. Use the remaining silver to make the

tube (instructions are in the video).


tube shoulder joints.

Use a minimal amount of solder

to ensure all the decorative

detail is kept. Pickle, and trim

off any excess solder around the

Polish all surfaces including the inside of the

settings. The ring is now finished and ready

for assessment before stone setting.

Peter Keep is a

master jeweller

and teacher. He

offers structured

online courses

that have helped

thousands of

students around

the world improve

their skills.

This online course includes six videos with

detailed instructions.



Jewellery Training Solutions is helping to train the next generation of jewellers

and offers a comprehensive online training service for including the popular

industry recognised Ten Stage Apprenticeship Course.

Check out all the courses and options.


August 2020 47




Supplier to

all buying groups

Fast delivery Australia wide


MILN & CO. Pty Ltd

Ph: 02 4655 7707 M: 0412 702 834


Lancier Watch Bands - Leather, metal, sports.

Watchglasses. Seals. Batteries. Quartz Movements.

Pins/tools. Jewellery findings. J C Hurst Bangles.

Fischer Barometers and Tide Clocks

Chris O’Neill


2015 YJG Bench Challenge

Hand Engraving Champion.

PO Box 112

Toronto NSW 2283

P: 02 9380 4742 ∙ F: 02 8580 6168

E: sales@adelaimports.com

Adela Imports offer over 180

designs of sterling silver chain,

with up to 20 lengths available

in each from stock.

Also offering a range of

uniquely designed silver


Nearly 40 years of trusted

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Free call: 1800 244 354


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0405 689 834

Catalogue available.


Your one stop battery shop

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Watch the Video



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T: 03 9663 2321 F: 03 9663 7821 E: info@athan.com.au




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The Blaze Promotion Pack 2 includes 32 piece selection of our top

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Jewellery Centre’s Latest

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Dear Addison | +61 2 9452 4981

A fun and vibrant collection from Dear Addison, the new Saltwater

Collection for Spring/Summer 2020 is filled with gorgeous details.

Layering is set to be a key trend this season with this injection of

delicate necklaces and earrings featuring colourful stones. Pictured

here are the Lana and Tail Feather necklaces and Delta Hoops with

lapis, jade and pink crystals.


Pastiche | +61 2 9452 4981

The Sienna Collection showcases unique

Pastiche designs combining golden tones

and on-trend styles crafted in stainless steel

or solid sterling silver. This collection will be

a hit with your customers as most pieces

retail for under $100! Exciting additions

to this season include the Willow and

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beautifully light Mosaic set in stainless steel.



jewellery world - August 2020

Ikecho | +61 2 9266 0636

9ct rg natual pink edison 13mm freshwater pearl

diamond shepherd hook earrings .04ct






Since its launch in 1997, the

user-friendly JW Directory

remains the industry’s most

up-to-date, relevant and

respected sourcebook.





If you are an Australian or New Zealand jewellery

business, you can register FREE to appear in the

2021 Jewellery World Directory.

Take a moment to update your details to be sure

that your business details are correct.

The Directory is distributed to 5,000 retailers

across Australia and New Zealand.

Visit www.jwdirectory.com.au

or contact Jeremy Keight on 0431 844 903 or Jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au

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