Jewellery World Magazine - August 2020
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AUGUST <strong>2020</strong><br />
AUSTRALIA AND NEW<br />
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
<strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />
ABN: 41 143 385 895<br />
ISSN: 2207-6751<br />
PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570<br />
P: 0431 844 903<br />
Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
managing director<br />
Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903<br />
jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
editor<br />
editor@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
contributing writers<br />
Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />
Stefan Juengling<br />
Cheryl D Harty<br />
art<br />
design@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
advertising sales<br />
sales@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
DISCLAIMER:<br />
REGULARS<br />
6 News<br />
12 Palloys Points<br />
14 Trade Well with Rami Baron<br />
16 JAA News<br />
46 Keeping Skills Alive<br />
48 Directory<br />
50 New Products<br />
FEATURES<br />
20 Here's why you should buy platinum<br />
This precious metal becomes more and more popular<br />
every year.<br />
24 Silver still in demand<br />
A U.S. study shows consumers are buying self-reward<br />
jewellery during lockdown.<br />
28 White diamonds<br />
Our indepth look at how white diamonds are faring<br />
in <strong>2020</strong>.<br />
34 Profile: Unafraid of change<br />
Craig Miller of JC Jewels embraces the disruption of<br />
lab grown diamonds.<br />
36 Detecting lab grown diamonds<br />
A Perth-based company provides a comprehensive<br />
testing suite.<br />
20<br />
28<br />
36<br />
This publication may not be reproduced<br />
in whole or part without the written<br />
permission of the Publisher.<br />
Articles express the opinions of the<br />
authors and are not necessarily those of the<br />
Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or<br />
service in this magazine does not indicate the<br />
Publisher’s endorsement.<br />
The Publisher excludes all liability for<br />
loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false<br />
or misleading statements that may appear<br />
in this publication.<br />
All information is copyright.<br />
40 Proactive consumer recruitment<br />
As the world changes, so do consumers. We need to<br />
know how to connect with them.<br />
42 Profile: Francesca Collections<br />
Two Hobart sisters have created a jewellery brand<br />
with a strong foundation in social justice.<br />
AUSTRALIA AND NEW<br />
AUGUST <strong>2020</strong><br />
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE<br />
FRONT COVER<br />
Ellani Collections<br />
www.ellanicollections.com.au<br />
4<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />
• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, <strong>2020</strong> (Homebush)<br />
• International <strong>Jewellery</strong> Fair -September 12-14, <strong>2020</strong> (Darling Harbour)<br />
TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU
News<br />
Jewellers Podcast - back on the air!<br />
It’s been well over a year since the beloved Jewellers Podcast was on the air.<br />
Started by Linsey Houston from Social Story Tellers, the podcast talked to jewellers<br />
from all walks of life from all over Australia and released 24 episodes since its<br />
inception in July 2017.<br />
Now back for its first episode since June 2019, the podcast is getting a facelift and<br />
new hosts. Taking the reins are Laura Moore from Moore Events and the <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
Industry Summit, and Brett Low from Young Jewellers Group and Deer Honey<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong>. The pair is teaming up to bring back the podcast, bringing with them<br />
new guests and fresh eyes over the industry.<br />
Laura and Brett as the Jewellers Podcast hosts are excited to start bringing<br />
new stories of the jewellery industry to the podcast audience and hope that it<br />
continues to inspire and connect members of the jewellery industry.<br />
The Jewellers Podcast will be releasing its first episode on the 31st of July. The<br />
podcast can be found via your favourite podcast player.<br />
Serena Williams is unstoppable<br />
Tennis icon Serena Williams, who launched her own fine jewellery line in late<br />
2019, has now released a special edition jewellery capsule entitled Unstoppable,<br />
with 100% of proceeds benefitting the Opportunity Fund’s Small Business Relief<br />
Fund.<br />
This charity directly supports Black small<br />
business owners who have been impacted by<br />
the financial crisis caused by COVID-19.<br />
The jewellery capsule comprises a bracelet<br />
and necklace in sterling silver, each set with a<br />
single diamond, and engraved with the word<br />
Unstoppable. Williams says that the jewellery<br />
collection “represents serenity and unity,<br />
and is a reminder that your optimism and<br />
strength are unstoppable.”<br />
Hong Kong September fair postponed<br />
The <strong>Jewellery</strong> and Gem <strong>World</strong> Hong Kong (JGW) trade fair,<br />
also known as HK September has been postponed until<br />
9-13 November due to continuing travel restrictions and<br />
health concerns about COVID-19.<br />
JGW was originally scheduled for September in two<br />
venues: the loose precious metals exhibition was originally<br />
scheduled at AWE from 13-17 September, while finished<br />
jewellery and other related products was scheduled<br />
for 15-19 September at the Hong Kong Convention and<br />
Exhibition Centre. The decision to hold JGW in November<br />
is to be a one-off arrangement.<br />
Despite rumours that the event may still be cancelled<br />
this year, the organisers state they are committed to<br />
supporting industry stakeholders by holding the trade fair.<br />
“We recognise that the spate of show cancellations and<br />
postponements in the first half of the year makes the JGW<br />
sourcing experience more important than ever for our<br />
community,” trade show organisers said in a statement.“It<br />
is the last global sourcing event on the jewellery trade<br />
show calendar this year, with the heaviest peak selling<br />
season just around the corner.”<br />
ICA dazzles Instagram<br />
The International Coloured Gemstone Association has<br />
put its corona-downtime to positive use by revitalising its<br />
Instagram account - thoughtfully providing the rest of us<br />
with some dazzling gemstone viewing to help us through<br />
these trying times.<br />
The association<br />
is also welcoming<br />
collaboration from<br />
members with its<br />
Member Tuesday<br />
initiative on the<br />
account - so expect<br />
to see your favourite<br />
local gemstone<br />
dealers getting<br />
involved.<br />
If you’re an ICA member and want to get involved, contact<br />
Cecilia@gemstone.org for more info.<br />
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jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
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News<br />
US jeweller sets up treasure hunt after closing business<br />
A US jeweller is about to launch a massive treasure hunt, having buried a total of<br />
$1.4 million worth of jewellery, rare coins and other treasures in remote areas<br />
across the state of Michigan.<br />
After 23 years in business, Johnny Perri,<br />
owner of J&M Jewelers closed his store in<br />
the wake of pandemic lockdowns. Rather<br />
than selling up their stock, Perry and his<br />
wife Amy decided to create an adventure<br />
so they spent several months burying small<br />
piles of treasure in various locations in the<br />
wilderness.<br />
“We went through waterfalls, streams, we<br />
kayaked everywhere,” Mr Perri said.<br />
He is selling tickets for each Treasure Quest,<br />
with the first hunt set to launch on the<br />
first of <strong>August</strong>. The first treasure includes<br />
two 100oz bars of .999 pure silver with an<br />
estimated spot price value of US$7,000.<br />
The finder has the option of selling it back to Mr Perri for that amount or keeping<br />
the treasure.<br />
“I was going nuts at home with nothing to do pacing back and forth,” said Mr Perri.<br />
“Giving people adventure is giving them something to believe in again, besides this<br />
COVID crap.”<br />
Watch auction excels despite global<br />
crisis<br />
The recent Hong Kong Watch Auction X showed that<br />
not even a global crisis can dim enthusiasm for the<br />
vintage watch market.<br />
The July auction netted $14million and sales were<br />
led by a group of rare Patek Philippe watches.<br />
The top ten timepieces sold included five Patek<br />
Philippes, three Rolexes, a Richard Mille and a watch<br />
by A. Lange & Sohne.<br />
The auction was notable for the number of online bidders, with 93% of the lots<br />
receiving bids from online. Bidders from 50 countries were registered - some in<br />
person, some over the phone - but the majority online. A record total of 1,200<br />
individual bids were received via the internet - an interesting lesson.<br />
The top selling watch went for USD$607,590 - a 1982 18k yellow gold perpetual<br />
calendar chronograph Patek Philippe with moon phases.<br />
De Beers appoints Sarah Kuijlaars CFO<br />
Corporate veteran Sarah Kuijlaars has been appointed<br />
chief financial officer to De Beers Group where she<br />
will join the board and executive committee. Her<br />
appointment follows the resignation of Nimesh Patel.<br />
Kuijlaars is new to the world of diamonds. Her previous<br />
appointment was as CFO of Arcadis NV and, prior to<br />
that, deputy CFO of Rolls<br />
Royce Holdings. She has<br />
held several senior financial<br />
positions during a 25 year<br />
career at Royal Dutch Shell.<br />
Kuijlaars has a mathematics<br />
degree from Oxford University<br />
and has worked in several<br />
countries, including Russia, Brazil, Nigeria and in the<br />
Middle East.<br />
Celebrity engagement rings<br />
Brooklyn Beckham, 21-year-old son of David and<br />
Victoria Beckham, has proposed to actress girlfriend<br />
Nicola Peltz, presenting her with an engagement ring<br />
rumoured to have cost around £350k.<br />
The ring features a solitaire diamond in a classic<br />
emerald cut estimated to be approximately 5cts, set in<br />
a fine band of platinum or white gold. It’s unlikely that<br />
Beckham’s fiancée is daunted by the cost of the ring –<br />
Nicola’s father is US billionaire Nelson Peltz, who has<br />
set a budget of £4 million for his daughter’s upcoming<br />
wedding.<br />
And if Nicola loses enthusiasm for the sparkler, she<br />
can follow the example of her future mother-in-law<br />
who upgrades her engagement ring every few years.<br />
Victoria Beckham’s collection of 14 engagement<br />
rings includes the three-carat marquise-cut diamond<br />
engagement ring with a yellow gold band presented by<br />
David when he proposed in 1998, a pink champagne<br />
diamond ring in a halo setting, a pear cut 17-carat<br />
diamond set in a diamond pave band, and an emerald<br />
cut yellow diamond set in a yellow gold pave band.<br />
8<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
News<br />
The Queen Mary fringe tiara<br />
The Queen Mary fringe tiara has now been worn<br />
by three generations of British royal princesses,<br />
as Princess Beatrice wore it to her July 18<br />
wedding, following her grandmother Queen<br />
Elizabeth and her aunt Princess Anne. Yet the<br />
iconic diadem, designed by Queen Mary in 1919<br />
in the fringe design popularised by the Russian<br />
Romanovs, almost didn’t make it to the first<br />
royal wedding.<br />
When the then Princess Elizabeth was preparing<br />
for her 1948 wedding, she accidentally broke the<br />
tiara while trying to put it on.<br />
“The catch, which I didn’t know existed, it<br />
suddenly went,” the Queen explained in a 2011<br />
interview. “And I didn’t know it was a necklace,<br />
you see…I thought I’d broken it…we stuck it all<br />
together again, but I was rather alarmed…”<br />
Despite her mother’s assurances – “there<br />
are other tiaras” – Princess Elizabeth was<br />
determined to wear her grandmother’s fringe<br />
tiara, so a repairer from Garrard Jewellers was<br />
urgently summoned to the palace, and the tiara<br />
was hastily patched together so the bride could<br />
wear it.<br />
Queen Mary’s fringe tiara consists of 47<br />
diamond bars separated by smaller diamond<br />
spikes, and set in gold and silver. The diamonds<br />
were originally part of a tiara and necklace worn by Queen Mary on her own wedding<br />
day in 1893 to the future George V, then the Duke of York.<br />
Tanzanite miner becomes overnight<br />
millionaire<br />
A small-scale tanzanite miner in Tanzania recently sold<br />
two rough tanzanite stones - the biggest ever found in<br />
the country - and became an overnight millionaire.<br />
Saniniu Laizer scored $3.4m from the sale. The two<br />
rocks had a combined weight of 15kg.<br />
“There will be a big party tomorrow,” Laizer told BBC<br />
reporters.<br />
Tanzanite is only found in northern Tanzania and is one<br />
of the rarest gemstones on Earth. It is estimated that<br />
the entire<br />
supply will<br />
be depleted<br />
within the<br />
next 20 years.<br />
Laizer, a<br />
father of 30<br />
children and<br />
husband to<br />
four wives, said he planned to invest in this community<br />
in the Simanijiro district in Manyara.<br />
"I want to build a shopping mall and a school. I want<br />
to build this school near my home. There are many<br />
poor people around here who can't afford to take their<br />
children to school," he said.<br />
The miner didn’t expect his windfall to change is<br />
lifestyle and planned to continue farming his 2,000<br />
cows. Small-scale miners like Laizer need to acquire<br />
government licences to prospect for tanzanite and he<br />
sold the stones to the country’s mining<br />
ministry.<br />
Gold price passes USD$1,800<br />
The second week of July saw the spot price of gold smash through the USD$1,800 per ounce barrier for the first time<br />
since 2011. At time of printing, the price is heading tentatively toward USD$1,900 - close to the all-time record of<br />
USD$1,923.70 which it hit in September 2011.<br />
Gold might be the only thing that has had an impressive year so far in <strong>2020</strong>. It’s risen 20 percent in price since January, though not<br />
as quickly or as steadily as some analysts predicted.<br />
“Fears of further increases in infections and related lockdown fears have been driving demand and thus prices,” Carsten Menke, an<br />
analyst with Swiss bank Julius Baer, told the Financial Times. “This suggests that short-term price risks remain skewed to the upside as<br />
long as the virus does not come under control.”<br />
Analysts at Bloomberg believe that a record close to the USD$2,000 is highly likely.<br />
“We now think that it is a matter of when, not if, gold may set a new record high,” said Oversea-Chinese Banking Corp. economist Howie Lee,<br />
according to the news service. “The previous record close of $1,900 is now in plain sight and we suspect gold might even attempt $2,000 before<br />
the end of <strong>2020</strong> if the number of U.S. [COVID-19] cases does not abate.”<br />
10<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
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PALLOYS POINTS<br />
Chris Botha,<br />
Operations Manager, <strong>Jewellery</strong> Division<br />
Palloys<br />
THE CAUSE AND EFFECT<br />
OF THE NOW RISING<br />
PRICE OF GOLD<br />
What is driving the new unprecedented historic high gold price?<br />
For six years gold languished below<br />
US$1,375 but lately, it broke through and<br />
since then it has staged a remarkable<br />
recovery that has not shown any signs of<br />
slowing down. A falling Australian dollar has<br />
added to the rise, resulting in the Australian<br />
gold price increasing over $A2,760 per ounce.<br />
The current upward trend in the gold price has<br />
shown no sign in slowing, further compounded<br />
by the COVID-19 outbreak and gold and other<br />
precious metals beings observed as a safe<br />
haven. Professional investors seeking gold as a<br />
potential safe-haven have been the main force<br />
but ABC Bullion has seen a surge of interest by<br />
individual investors as well.<br />
The price of gold is primarily set in the London<br />
and US gold markets where huge transactions<br />
between corporations, institutions,<br />
governments, and individuals occur. The<br />
resulting gold price balances demand from<br />
buyers with supply from sellers.<br />
The price relationship between a piece of fine<br />
gold jewellery and gold market prices generally<br />
aren’t so clear cut. Gold jewellery, for the most<br />
part, is priced for the creativity, workmanship,<br />
and exclusivity of an item. Stock items such as<br />
engagement rings, earrings mountings, etc.<br />
reflect gold ounce prices most.<br />
The jewellery industry operates on a “gold<br />
price on date of delivery” model. That means<br />
that manufacturers, wholesalers, and retailers,<br />
don’t know one day to the next what their gold<br />
purchases – or unfilled orders - are going to<br />
cost. When the order is filled from a supplier,<br />
the daily gold price is consulted, and the metal<br />
is priced accordingly.<br />
The last time that gold was trading at over<br />
$1800 an ounce, jewellery manufacturers<br />
started to move predominantly into the silver<br />
and stainless-steel ranges in order to still be<br />
able to appeal to customers at the lower price<br />
point. Lately our office has experienced a trend<br />
in increased sales in platinum alloy, due to the<br />
increasing price of gold, also there has been an<br />
increase in phone calls asking for the price of<br />
gold for the day.<br />
At Palloys, we have remained open throughout<br />
the crisis, ensuring we are there to service<br />
the industry. Palloys have been invested<br />
heavily into streamlining our systems with our<br />
sister company ABC Refinery, to ensure that<br />
any precious metal product, whether it be<br />
fabricated metal, findings, Casting or Finished<br />
jewellery, is offered at the best precious metal<br />
price.<br />
12<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />
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WHAT DOES THE LUXURY<br />
BUSINESS MEAN TO YOU?<br />
I am in the diamond business.<br />
I am in the jewellery business.<br />
I sell expensive watches.<br />
Is this you?<br />
I'd like to use a quote that I wrote in another<br />
article many years ago.<br />
A marketing guru was having dinner with the<br />
chairman of Rolex. A friend of his stopped by<br />
the table to say hello. The friend turned to the<br />
chairman of Rolex whom he recognised and<br />
asked, “How is the watch business going?”.<br />
His response was “I do not know.” There was<br />
a pause and clear awkwardness at the table.<br />
How could the head of the most successful<br />
watch company in the world not know how<br />
the market was? The chairman smiled and<br />
said, “Rolex is not in the watch business. We<br />
are in the luxury business.”<br />
Now, before you start shaking your head<br />
thinking ‘well of course Rolex can say that,’ I<br />
know and you know that you're not Rolex and<br />
you probably never will be. So how relevant is<br />
this quote to you?<br />
Humour me and you will see where I'm going<br />
with this.<br />
You don't have to be Rolex to learn from Rolex.<br />
You don't have to be Amazon to learn from<br />
Amazon, nor do you have to be the most<br />
sophisticated store in your city to learn from<br />
them.<br />
If today you were to walk into your<br />
establishment and ask yourself<br />
how do you want your customer<br />
to feel when they walk into your<br />
store, workshop or showroom,<br />
what would the answer be?<br />
If you're not sure what I mean,<br />
then I suggest you go for a<br />
walk into Tiffany's or an LVMH<br />
boutique. As soon as you enter,<br />
stop and ask yourself how have<br />
they made you feel? Maybe<br />
nothing, but then I think you are<br />
missing the point. You're focusing<br />
on the fixtures and fittings and not<br />
the overall ambiance, atmosphere<br />
and experience.<br />
I was sitting and talking with a guy<br />
from Amazon. He was explaining<br />
to me how everyone who works<br />
there focuses on what they call<br />
the ‘flywheel.’ This is a concept<br />
where every employee is expected<br />
to think about what benefits they<br />
can bring to their customers. But<br />
he also brought to my attention<br />
that Amazon never looks to get<br />
into niche markets. The reason<br />
is very simple: they cannot scale.<br />
14<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
DDCA NEWS<br />
Rami Baron<br />
President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia<br />
rami@ddca.org.au<br />
They need to get into a market where they can<br />
use their sheer size to grow. A niche market<br />
is specialist and they stay away from those<br />
because they understand that the resources<br />
it takes to capture market in this space is<br />
disproportional for a large business. Amazon is<br />
not going to come after the smaller operator<br />
and Amazon is not going after luxury. Amazon<br />
is focused on price, and that’s a game you can<br />
never win.<br />
Let's refocus the lens.What does the luxury<br />
business even mean to you?<br />
In my view, when it comes to jewellery, the<br />
luxury business means the ability to evoke an<br />
emotion in our customers which creates the<br />
desire to want to both experience it and own<br />
at least a small piece of it. Luxury is something<br />
we strive for. It is a feeling of being pampered,<br />
respected, looked up to. Yes, deep down we're<br />
touching on someone's ego that they are able<br />
to participate in this rarefied atmosphere.<br />
I will ask you to stop for a moment to<br />
appreciate that luxury in the world that<br />
we live in today does not necessarily mean<br />
velvet lounges and gold edged mirrors. Your<br />
environment could be minimalist. I might<br />
need to enter three security doors just to<br />
get in. Your showroom might be in a hidden<br />
away location with the customer being sent a<br />
passcode that they must use to enter the front<br />
door.<br />
Ask yourself what would your customers<br />
consider being luxurious? Maybe the word is<br />
not luxurious. Maybe it's Dope, Lit (amazing<br />
cool or exciting) or GOAT (greatest of all time).<br />
Your definition of what luxury is may be very<br />
different to your customers’ definition.<br />
Is your offering luxurious in the eyes of your<br />
customers?<br />
What could you do to make it luxurious?<br />
What if I said to you that fresh strawberries<br />
are a luxury in winter, to some people?<br />
We all know what a luxurious hotel looks like,<br />
or do we? It is different depending on your<br />
age and your mindset.If you stayed in a four<br />
star hotel, but they put chocolates on your<br />
pillow, fresh flowers in the room, fresh milk in<br />
the fridge and few pieces of fruit with a little<br />
handwritten card welcoming you by name on<br />
the table, I would consider that luxurious.<br />
I feel that we are in a luxury business, and<br />
it’s all about how you make your customer<br />
feel. The product, the diamond ring, can only<br />
be re-invented so many times. Today, your<br />
customer does so much homework before<br />
they even come to see you.They often know<br />
what they want, give or take, before they walk<br />
in the door.<br />
We talk about the experience, but to what<br />
extent do you take that? Are you consistent<br />
with this experience every time? So many<br />
jewellers start off with great ambitions,<br />
like the champagne bottle at pick up, but<br />
a month later they forgot to refill the stock<br />
and stop doing it. They didn’t have time to<br />
write the handwritten note or call a week<br />
later, with excuses like they were busy, or<br />
‘do we really need to spend that additional<br />
$50?’<br />
A true luxury hotel does not drop the ball,<br />
and if they do, they overcompensate to<br />
exceed your expectations. Imagine one<br />
customer gets the champagne, but not the<br />
next one who was told about it, but you ran<br />
out. You won’t hear about it, but you also<br />
won’t get their referral.<br />
Luxury is all the above and more.<br />
Consistency is a key element.<br />
What do you do? Or should I really ask,<br />
what does the luxury business mean to you?<br />
and stay healthy<br />
Trade well,,, Rami Baron.<br />
^<br />
<strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 15
PRESIDENT'S<br />
MESSAGE<br />
Jo Tory<br />
As I write this, it has been confirmed that Australia is in its first recession in 29 years, as the full<br />
impact of the coronavirus-related shutdowns affect Australia’s GDP. Economists widely define a<br />
recession as two consecutive quarters of economic decline, the last being in Australia in March<br />
and June 1991. The Australian Bureau of Statistics reported that Australia’s economy recorded its<br />
slowest annual growth in more than a decade, though not all COVID related.<br />
Given the Treasury had expected the<br />
GDP to fall some 4% and instead<br />
declined by 0.3% shows how resilient<br />
the Australian economy has been, with not<br />
only the early stages of a pandemic but a<br />
summer devastated bybushfires and drought.<br />
Many other countries have reported negative<br />
growth by up to 9.8%.<br />
A recession can hit all industries hard, the<br />
jewellery industry being no exception. I have<br />
spoken to many industry colleagues in the<br />
last few months, retailers, suppliers and<br />
manufacturers. Some have reported that<br />
there has been little change to their business,<br />
some have been significantly impacted, such<br />
as those who largely rely on tourism or are<br />
located in CBD areas, and others have seen<br />
an increase in their sales, particularly online<br />
and in manufacturing. Perhaps this is because<br />
expenditure is staying in Australia, perhaps<br />
because JobKeeper cash has been made<br />
available as a business lifesaver as well as a<br />
stimulus to the economy. It is hard to quantify.<br />
Trading in the luxury goods market during<br />
a recession can be daunting. There are a<br />
range of strategies and approaches that can<br />
minimise the impact on your business and<br />
allow you to continue to trade profitably in a<br />
weakened market.<br />
Reviewing your expenses and re-assessing<br />
your customer demographic are probably the<br />
first considerations, and are a given. These are<br />
of utmost importance. Other key components<br />
may include retraining you or your staff on<br />
objectives. Most buyers will now be priceconscious<br />
so learning how to deal with a<br />
price objection firstly signals their interest to<br />
buy. This opens the conversation to hit the<br />
emotional spot where the real trigger lies. It<br />
is probably good to reassure your staff to use<br />
these slow times to build relationships with<br />
potential customers and to strengthen their<br />
sales tools.<br />
Closely managing inventory is always a given,<br />
but it is critical now. Increasing the depth<br />
of bestsellers gives greater opportunity for<br />
sales and carrying a leaner inventory will<br />
give greater flexibility to adapt to changing<br />
markets.<br />
Advertising and PR are usually the first things<br />
to be cut in a recession. But consider that<br />
your competitor may have the same mindset<br />
and could leave a void in the market. A strong<br />
advertising focus could create an opportunity<br />
for you to gain a bigger voice, and therefore<br />
market share. So, monitor your competitors<br />
and seriously consider increasing your<br />
advertising budget, whether it be digital or<br />
print.<br />
Irrespective of a difficult economic period, you<br />
must always have thorough understanding of<br />
your financials and projections for the future.<br />
In a recession you will most likely find yourself<br />
forced to cut costs in a short period of time<br />
such as days or weeks, instead of months or<br />
quarters. Being vigilant and knowing where<br />
you stand financially will avoid any hasty<br />
errors. But keep your mind on the future. It<br />
will change, and there are opportunities to be<br />
had.<br />
The most important thing is to capitalise on<br />
what you do best, and to communicate that.<br />
Look for the challenges, not the threats,<br />
andmost importantly, always remain positive.<br />
16<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
J A A<br />
D E S I G N<br />
R E N D E R<br />
A drawing competition celebrating Australia and New<br />
Zealand's jewellery design and sketching skills. The<br />
Competition honours the diverse talent of local artisans<br />
by showcasing their original and distinguished talents<br />
in hand and digital drawing. Great prizes to be won.<br />
E N T R I E S N O W O P E N<br />
J A A . C O M . A U / S K E T C H<br />
P R O U D L Y S P O N S O R E D
COVID REPORT – AUGUST <strong>2020</strong><br />
In March <strong>2020</strong>, Australia changed. COVID-19 put a halt to the way we operate. International<br />
borders were closed, state borders were closed, entire industries were shut down overnight and<br />
other industries were brought to a standstill due to the population being urged to stay at home.<br />
You all know this as you have lived through it.<br />
The JAA wanted to know how your<br />
business has fared in this extraordinary<br />
time. So, we have undertaken two<br />
surveys of our members to understand the<br />
impact that COVID-19 has had on our industry.<br />
The first survey was undertaken at the end<br />
of March. It focused on the main concerns<br />
of our members at the present time and the<br />
assistance that the JAA could provide.<br />
The main concerns were around health<br />
and the risk to oneself, family or staff being<br />
diagnosed with COVID-19. Cashflow to pay<br />
rent, staff and ongoing expenses was a major<br />
concern, as well as the lack of customers<br />
and the length of restrictions that would<br />
impact the jewellery industry. Of course,<br />
the economic impact on the survival of the<br />
business was on everyone’s mind.<br />
In terms of requiring immediate assistance,<br />
the majority of respondents named financial<br />
relief through rent and wages, loan options<br />
and tax exemptions. Understanding employee<br />
entitlements during a pandemic was also top<br />
priority.<br />
Given the overwhelming<br />
amount of information<br />
circulating, as well as the<br />
unknown outcomes of<br />
the situation, it was not<br />
surprising to learn that 78%<br />
of respondents reported<br />
that their employee’s mental<br />
health, as well as their own,<br />
was being adversely affected.<br />
Our follow up survey in June<br />
reported that this number had<br />
decreased to 47%. A testament<br />
to the actions taken by the government.<br />
When it came to navigating employees’ pay<br />
and leave entitlements, 59% of respondents<br />
reported that they were aware and could<br />
manage, with 28% saying they felt at the<br />
present time they had not been able to reach<br />
out to anyone for advice or assistance. The<br />
remaining 72% stated that they received<br />
advice from their accountant, landlord, bank,<br />
lawyer, HR adviser, as well as government<br />
bodies.<br />
Graph 1. Percentage of members and their employees<br />
reporting their mental health was adversely affected<br />
The JAA was quick to act in response to COVID,<br />
assisting members with phone calls and emails<br />
relating to employer obligations in standing<br />
down staff, conditions in which a business<br />
may temporarily close, as well as rental relief<br />
questions. Further to this, over a period of two<br />
months the JAA has sent its members a variety<br />
of support information covering hygiene<br />
and safety practices within a business, rental<br />
reduction templates, mental health resources,<br />
Graph 2. In the early stages’ members received<br />
advice from a range of sources.<br />
JobKeeper and other financial support<br />
options available from State and Territory<br />
governments. As well as information related<br />
to pivoting a business through marketing<br />
and productivity and free industry resources<br />
released as a result of the pandemic.<br />
Our follow up survey, conducted at the end<br />
of June, demonstrated that most businesses<br />
had re-opened or never closed, or now<br />
operate with restricted trading hours or<br />
by appointment only. Those that have not<br />
18<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY<br />
reopened are<br />
located in<br />
high tourist<br />
precincts or<br />
areas in which<br />
customers<br />
had not yet<br />
returned,<br />
such as CBD<br />
locations.<br />
Since April,<br />
87% of survey<br />
Graph 3. Since April, 87% of respondents reported<br />
respondents<br />
a decrease in revenue between 21%-100%<br />
reported a decrease in revenue between 21%-100%,<br />
with 21-40% the highest reported bracket. Furthermore,<br />
69% expect revenue to remain the same or increase in<br />
the coming months.<br />
Sixteen percent of respondents reported that they had<br />
not been able to access rental relief and 13% expect to<br />
lay off casual staff in the coming months when JobKeeper<br />
ends.<br />
In a drastically changing business environment,<br />
innovations are essential. Our member’s survey<br />
showed that the most common reaction was to focus<br />
on e-commerce channels, by either opening a new<br />
website or expanding an existing one. Close behind this<br />
was expanding social media presence. This was equally<br />
followed by increased digital advertising and promotions,<br />
moving or expanding into new markets and collaborating<br />
with other businesses. Eleven percent of respondents<br />
reported that they have made no changes.<br />
The JAA is working very closely with members and<br />
industry bodies to ensure it brings benefits to its<br />
members and the wider industry during this difficult<br />
time. Work has begun to engage with government and<br />
enhance member offering, which will only continue as<br />
we work towards a brighter industry.<br />
SOLID AUSTRALIAN OPAL JEWELLERY<br />
Ikecho launched Solid Opal <strong>Jewellery</strong> range in<br />
2017, and has been a huge success. Opal is the<br />
national gemstone of Australia and is now very<br />
popular within the Australian market.<br />
Ikecho mix together solid opal and pearl into their<br />
designs. Opals are extremely unique which makes<br />
them extra special and distinctive as its very<br />
difficult to find two opals exactly the same.<br />
www.ikecho.com.au | enquiries@ikecho.com.au<br />
Tel: (02) 9266 0636
DARREN SHER<br />
Director, Chemgold<br />
www.chemgold.com<br />
HERE’S WHY YOU SHOULD BE<br />
SELLING PLATINUM<br />
Many of today’s buyers are interested<br />
in purity and sustainability. Rather<br />
than valuing material goods, these<br />
consumers prefer sentimental stories and<br />
memories that they can pass down to their<br />
children and grandchildren. Platinum pieces<br />
pair perfectly with the aspirations of young<br />
couples and with the idea of purity within<br />
long-term relationships. As a result, platinum<br />
is becoming increasingly popular.<br />
Another reason for platinum’s continued<br />
popularity is with its price at record lows. The<br />
spot ASK price of platinum is approximately<br />
$40 per gram. Although the global pandemic<br />
might be behind some of the recent drops<br />
in prices, there are several other factors that<br />
drive these lower prices. For instance, unlike<br />
gold, platinum does not carry monetary<br />
value, but instead industrial value. Up until<br />
recent years, platinum was used in car<br />
manufacturing but has been replaced by<br />
palladium. This frees up more platinum for<br />
jewellers to purchase and sell, rather than<br />
having to compete with other industries that<br />
need the precious metal.<br />
A major selling point for platinum is that it has<br />
a natural white colour and will not fade over<br />
the years. Today’s consumers are more likely<br />
to consider goods that are more natural with<br />
less processing and find themselves attracted<br />
to the purity and beauty of platinum.<br />
It is important to<br />
educate buyers<br />
on the differences<br />
between white<br />
gold and platinum.<br />
White gold is only<br />
achieved through<br />
bleaching. Nickel and<br />
palladium are the<br />
main bleachers of<br />
gold followed by zinc,<br />
silver, gallium and<br />
indium. Palladium is<br />
preferred as typically<br />
most skin allergy<br />
reactions occur with metals that contain<br />
nickel.<br />
Selling platinum to a satisfied customer is an<br />
amazing feeling because it is a product that<br />
will endure. With proper care, platinum can<br />
last and protect precious stones for a lifetime.<br />
The difference is that gold will wear down,<br />
whilst platinum will be displaced making<br />
a stone more secure in a platinum setting.<br />
This feature appeals to buyers that imagine<br />
beginning new traditions and passing down<br />
family heirlooms.<br />
Jewellers looking to take advantage of low<br />
platinum prices and stock their inventory<br />
should take care to find the highest quality<br />
casting and fabricated alloys. Chemgold’s<br />
platinum has incomparable qualities,<br />
innovative material properties, outstanding<br />
workability and a brilliant white colour. With<br />
their platinum, jewellers can be confident<br />
of its quality and zero allergenic alloys like<br />
cobalt. With state-of-the-art platinum,<br />
jewellers can cultivate the next generation of<br />
platinum buyers that will be satisfied for years<br />
on end.<br />
20<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
jewellerydpi.com<br />
New Stainless and Tungsten series
07 3003 1788<br />
www.adoradiamonds.com.au | info@adoradiamonds.com.au<br />
Time to buy Australian-made<br />
Ph: (03) 9650 5955 Fax: (03) 6950 5977<br />
Email: sales@millenniumchain.com.au<br />
Web: www.millenniumchain.com.au<br />
6th Floor, 313 Lt. Collins St.<br />
Melbourne 3000 Victoria<br />
Millennium Chain<br />
Finished Top 5 in the category of<br />
Best Selling Gold <strong>Jewellery</strong> Suppliers in<br />
Australia and NZ, as voted by retailers.<br />
millennium_chain
SILVER STILL<br />
IN DEMAND<br />
A U.S. study indicates strong purchase intention for silver jewellery despite the pandemic.<br />
Breuning Silver - Osjag<br />
The Silver Promotion Service, an initiative<br />
of the U.S.-based Silver Institute, recently<br />
revealed the results of a consumer research<br />
study showing pent-up demand for jewellery, as<br />
well as intent to buy silver jewellery following the<br />
COVID-19 pendemic and quarantine.<br />
Of the jewellery consumers surveyed, 64 percent<br />
indicated that they still plan to purchase the<br />
jewellery gifts and self-rewards that they needed<br />
or wanted during quarantine and 50 percent of<br />
those intending to buy “just because” indicated<br />
that the jewellery purchased would be silver.<br />
across a variety of occasions (just because, birthday, self-love, etc.).<br />
In commenting on the research, SPS Director Michael Barlerin said, “The<br />
Silver Promotion Service was pleased by the quantification of pent-up<br />
demand for jewellery purchases and obviously by the emphasis on<br />
silver jewellery. Perhaps the survey reflected the ‘Silver Lining’ for U.S.<br />
retailers as our industry moves forward during these complex times.”<br />
The Silver Institute is a nonprofit international industry association<br />
headquartered in Washington, D.C. Established in 1971, the Institute’s<br />
members include leading silver producers, prominent silver refiners,<br />
manufacturers and dealers. The Institute serves as the industry’s voice in<br />
increasing public understanding of the value and the many uses of silver.<br />
The study focused on U.S. jewellery consumers<br />
mainly 25-40 years of age who have purchased fine<br />
jewellery valued over $200 in the past two years.<br />
Highlights from the mid-June <strong>2020</strong> consumer survey include:<br />
Breuning Silver - Osjag<br />
• The study completed by 511 U.S. jewellery consumers confirmed<br />
pent-up demand for fine jewellery buying, particularly for respondents<br />
who were somewhat or very affected by COVID-19, with a significant<br />
percentage of these consumers indicating that they plan to purchase<br />
between 1 – 4 pieces of jewellery.<br />
• 64% of the consumers surveyed indicated intent to purchase the<br />
jewellery that they were unable to purchase during quarantine.<br />
• 50% of those planning to buy fine jewellery “just because” indicated<br />
intent to purchase silver jewellery.<br />
• Key characteristics when selecting silver jewellery were identified by<br />
respondents as versatility, affordability, design and elegance.<br />
• There is a high likelihood of self-purchase for silver jewellery indicated<br />
24<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
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KL Diamonds<br />
By Stefan Juengling<br />
PANDEMIC YEAR BRINGS<br />
MIXED RESULTS FOR<br />
WHITE DIAMONDS<br />
In the midst of a global pandemic that’s wrought huge travel restrictions, massive unemployment<br />
and business closures, the white diamond industry has understandably been affected with cutting<br />
centres closed, order delays, and weddings and trade fairs postponed. With input from four<br />
prominent experts, we look at the state of the white diamond industry, and the issues affecting it.<br />
Pandemic makes waves in diamond<br />
sales and investments<br />
While most our respondents reported<br />
some impact to their white diamond sales<br />
and investments compared to last year, KL<br />
Diamonds is one brand where business has<br />
remained strong. Head of KL Diamonds Kalleh<br />
Levonian said their current demand is for<br />
diamonds around a carat and above.<br />
“Engagement ring sales are still strong with<br />
couples that have put their plans on hold now<br />
ramping up to go ahead while the window of<br />
opportunity to have their wedding is open,”<br />
he said.<br />
“We’ve also had customers<br />
come in bringing their current<br />
diamond to ‘upgrade’ and<br />
purchase a bigger, better stone.”<br />
He said this trend has gone<br />
against the current pessimist<br />
sentiment, but KL Diamonds<br />
Engagement ring sales are<br />
still strong with couples<br />
that have put their plans<br />
on hold now ramping up to<br />
go ahead while the window<br />
of opportunity to have<br />
their wedding is open<br />
Kalleh Levonian<br />
has happily experienced the same level of<br />
activity as their pre-pandemic sales.<br />
Managing director of Bolton Gems Brett<br />
Bolton said that sales of larger investment<br />
stones have slowed down during<br />
the pandemic, but they found<br />
an increase in sales of large<br />
stones which will be worn as<br />
everyday rings.<br />
“Up to 2.5 carat stones are still moving well as<br />
the prices have come down,” he said.<br />
Owner of Affection Diamonds Nirav Shah said<br />
that diamond sales have dropped compared<br />
to last year but investment has comparatively<br />
increased.<br />
“Since June, demand for diamonds are greater<br />
compared to June/July last year, due to the<br />
variety of stock available to us,” he said.<br />
Vipul Sutariya is Director of Sales and<br />
Marketing at Dharmanandan Diamonds, and<br />
he said that business is slow compared to last<br />
year due to the pandemic.<br />
KL Diamonds<br />
KL Diamonds<br />
28<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
Dharmanandan Diamonds<br />
Diamond supply outstripping<br />
demand?<br />
According to a recent article published in<br />
Business Insider Australia, billions of dollars<br />
of unsold diamonds are piling up around the<br />
world because no one wants to buy jewels in<br />
the middle of a pandemic, and most jewellery<br />
stores have had to shut down at some stage,<br />
meaning that a key avenue of diamond sales<br />
has been temporarily shut. Our respondents’<br />
experiences were mixed when probed on<br />
this issue. Vipul said that in Surat city, where<br />
more than 95% of the world’s diamonds are<br />
cut and polished, work<br />
has been halted due to<br />
the pandemic (which is<br />
preventing stones being<br />
brought to the market). On<br />
the other hand, Vipul said that<br />
almost 95% of retail stores in China<br />
have reopened, and there are similar<br />
reopenings happening around the world.<br />
“Every major centre is opening up and trading<br />
is slow but gradually increasing,” he said. “I<br />
don’t believe polished stock is piling up.”<br />
He also believes in a few months we may see<br />
some diamond shortages reported in the<br />
media.<br />
Dharmanandan Diamonds<br />
KL Diamonds<br />
Brett reported a similar problem, stating that<br />
sales have slowed, but a lot of the cutting<br />
factories have also closed, which is holding<br />
up a lot of the stones from being sold in the<br />
market.<br />
“We are also having trouble moving the large<br />
stones due to flight issues and delays,” he said.<br />
“This delay is also affecting sales as most<br />
consumers are happy to wait for the ring to be<br />
made, but want the diamond asap.”<br />
02 - 92690991
Fortunately for KL Diamonds, even if the<br />
oversupply problem were evident in other<br />
parts of the world, Kalleh said they would be<br />
immune to it anyway as they primarily retail in<br />
Argyle diamonds, which are not in abundant<br />
supply.<br />
“(We) have thankfully<br />
kept very busy during<br />
this time, only slowing<br />
down for Easter<br />
holidays,” he said.<br />
Affection Diamonds<br />
felt that lab created diamonds have not had<br />
or will not have any lasting impact on either<br />
prices of diamonds as a whole, or sales of<br />
natural diamonds.<br />
Kalleh said that prices for lab grown diamonds<br />
are trending down, at approximately a tenth<br />
of natural diamonds.<br />
“With companies<br />
such as Swarovski<br />
launching lab grown<br />
diamonds, there<br />
could be permanent<br />
alignment of lab<br />
grown with fashion<br />
jewellery in the<br />
future,” he said.<br />
Affection Diamonds<br />
Similarly, Vipul doesn’t believe lab created<br />
diamonds will have any effect on natural<br />
diamonds.<br />
“People who buy natural diamonds are of<br />
different a class, and their inclination toward<br />
natural, rare and precious factors will always<br />
be there and remain there,” he said.<br />
Nirav was blunt in his assessment of lab<br />
created diamonds.<br />
“I think lab created diamonds will have a<br />
small share in the market for now, and once<br />
their real values come down then they will<br />
With companies such<br />
as Swarovski launching<br />
lab grown diamonds,<br />
there could be permanent<br />
alignment of lab grown<br />
with fashion jewellery<br />
in the future<br />
KL Diamonds<br />
become substantial low prices, similar to<br />
luxury products in high brands and their fake<br />
counterparts,” he said.<br />
In contrast, Brett conceded that lab created<br />
diamonds have had a very large impact on<br />
Bolton Gems in the i1/i2 price point market.<br />
“I feel this new market will continue to grow<br />
and expand for consumers looking for a<br />
fashion item of jewellery,” he said.<br />
“Personally, I feel this will not affect the<br />
engagement ring market, and the lab grown<br />
diamonds will take more market share from<br />
other luxury products from the fashion<br />
industry.”<br />
“We’ve had many<br />
enquiries for whites<br />
and specifically for<br />
Argyle whites with full<br />
documentation.”<br />
Affection Diamonds<br />
Unfazed by lab created diamonds<br />
The advent of lab created diamonds has<br />
arguably been one of the biggest disruptors to<br />
the diamond industry, posing at times as both<br />
a competitor to their natural counterparts,<br />
and a catalyst for growing the diamond market<br />
as a whole. However, most of our contributors<br />
Dharmanandan Diamonds<br />
30<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
KL Diamonds<br />
Local buyers should be<br />
confident to buy from us<br />
and we will try our best to<br />
fulfil their demands in the<br />
best possible value<br />
Affection Diamonds<br />
Advice for buyers looking for<br />
diamond stock<br />
The pandemic has brought its fair share<br />
of disruption to international trade and<br />
events, with major events such as the Hong<br />
Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl<br />
Show <strong>2020</strong> being postponed until 2021,<br />
forcing many buyers to look local for stock.<br />
However, all of our respondents embraced the<br />
opportunity to supply and source locally. Vipul<br />
said that in the<br />
current situation<br />
where travel is<br />
restricted, it will be<br />
great opportunity<br />
for local jewellers,<br />
manufacturers and<br />
suppliers.<br />
Dharmanandan Diamonds<br />
“We have arranged almost 24x7 customer<br />
care units to cater for all small and large<br />
demands from all jewellers as well as local<br />
wholesalers and suppliers,” he said.<br />
Brett assured all buyers that Bolton Gems<br />
is there to help in many more ways than<br />
just supplying stock, with services such as<br />
jewellery CAD and CAM, repairs, marketing,<br />
plus sourcing of stones not held in stock.<br />
“As we have a full-time staff member overseas,<br />
we have the ability to view the stones before<br />
they arrive in Australia,” he said.<br />
“This ensures stones are looked at through<br />
buyers eyes and not just sellers.”<br />
Nirav said that since many fairs will not be<br />
going ahead in many parts of the world, it’s<br />
the best time for Affection Diamonds to supply<br />
locally.<br />
“Local buyers should be confident to buy<br />
from us and we will try our best to fulfil their<br />
demands in the best possible value,” he said.<br />
Kalleh said it’s an exciting time because his<br />
team at KL Diamonds are realising that most<br />
beautiful things can be sourced locally, and in<br />
doing so, they can support local businesses.<br />
“We offer full service from making and setting,<br />
to polishing and plating, all from our Sydney<br />
workshop," he said.<br />
"Keeping it local also offers our customers<br />
shorter turnaround times and higher quality.<br />
We’ve always believed that local businesses<br />
need to thrive so that’s why we’re keeping our<br />
prices as low as possible.”<br />
He advises their retailers to keep their<br />
customer base enthusiastic about buying<br />
locally and discovering Australian gemstones,<br />
whether that be Argyle pink, champagne and<br />
white diamonds, Aussie sapphires and pearls.<br />
Affection Diamonds<br />
32<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />
UNAFRAID OF CHANGE<br />
Craig Miller has cut the anchor of tradition free and stepped boldly into the<br />
world of lab-grown diamonds. Holding onto tradition is important, he admits,<br />
but it can also be dangerous in the new world - because, today, the only constant<br />
is change and things change every day.<br />
As a second generation diamantaire,<br />
Craig Miller has a unique insight into<br />
what is essentially a family-oriented<br />
industry. The diamond industry has a closeknit<br />
inter-generational structure, based on<br />
handing down knowledge and skills through<br />
the generations. Yet, this structure also means<br />
the industry is heavily steeped in tradition and<br />
it can be difficult for the younger generations<br />
to spearhead change.<br />
“The diamond industry has always been<br />
traditional and generational, often with two<br />
or three generations working side by side,”<br />
said Craig. “My peers and I would experience<br />
some frustration as we had our seniors at<br />
the helm, usually our fathers. Parents tend to<br />
pass on their life experiences with the best<br />
intentions. Their goal is to protect us, to limit<br />
our risk through their own experience. Life<br />
doesn’t always work like that and we need to<br />
learn from our own experiences.”<br />
Yet it can be difficult to strike out<br />
independently, when everything you know<br />
and love about the industry has evolved from<br />
your own family. Growing up in South Africa,<br />
Craig loved spending time at his father’s<br />
diamond cutting factory, watching the cutters<br />
transform rough stones into beautiful shining<br />
objects.<br />
“The shine and sparkle fascinated me,” Craig<br />
said. “This is where my passion for diamonds<br />
and their beauty began.”<br />
It was a foregone conclusion that Craig would<br />
eventually work for the family business. But<br />
his first day on the job was not quite how he<br />
had imagined it.<br />
“I purchased an expensive suit for my first day<br />
at work,” Craig said. “What was I thinking?<br />
My father took one look and suggested I take<br />
the suit back to the store. He handed me a<br />
blue overall bearing the company logo and<br />
directed me to a bench at the back corner<br />
of the factory. That was where I spent the<br />
next two years, doing my diamond cutting<br />
apprenticeship.”<br />
Over those two years, Craig learned all the<br />
processes involved in transforming a rough<br />
stone into a spectacular polished gem.<br />
“I learned marking,<br />
sawing, cleaving, cross<br />
working, cutting and<br />
brillianteering, and in<br />
the process, I became<br />
obsessed with the<br />
relevance of cut. I<br />
always say that colour,<br />
clarity and carat might<br />
determine the price of<br />
a diamond, but the cut<br />
determines its beauty.<br />
The cut is what creates the sparkle that<br />
catches your eye.”<br />
Next, Craig moved into the role of trading in<br />
rough diamonds, often travelling overseas on<br />
behalf of his father’s business.<br />
“I had the privilege of working with some<br />
exceptional diamonds, some rare gems I<br />
doubt I would see twice in one lifetime.<br />
There is a little rush of excitement, opening<br />
a parcel and seeing that one stone that will<br />
make you money, the one stone that has the<br />
opportunity to yield something even more<br />
beautiful than anyone has seen from beneath<br />
its skin.”<br />
In the late 1990s, Craig moved with his family<br />
to Australia, establishing the family business<br />
Miller Diamonds with his father and brothers.<br />
Craig’s role was to travel around Australia,<br />
selling the company’s polished diamonds from<br />
34<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
coast to coast<br />
in almost every<br />
town, building<br />
his network of<br />
industry contacts<br />
along the way.<br />
“In 2001, I<br />
channelled<br />
my obsession<br />
for well-cut<br />
diamonds<br />
by perfecting the precision of the cut. We<br />
created possibly the first white diamond<br />
brand in Australia – Passion8 Diamonds. Every<br />
stone was cut to such exact mathematical<br />
proportions, only 1% of the diamonds in the<br />
world were cut to that standard at the time,<br />
so this was a first to market.”<br />
As the global diamond industry experienced<br />
major transitions, the Miller family closed<br />
Miller Diamonds in 2014, and Craig spent the<br />
next four years developing and growing the<br />
diamond business through Showcase buying<br />
group.<br />
When he concluded with Showcase in 2019,<br />
Craig could see that the market landscape had<br />
completely transformed, and that he needed<br />
to change with it. “Reflecting on my past and<br />
looking at my future before starting a new<br />
business, I saw a landscape today that was<br />
completely different,” he said.<br />
And it was then that he realised how much<br />
courage is needed - not merely to start a<br />
new business venture - but to stand up as<br />
a member of the younger generation and<br />
create change and spearhead disruption in<br />
an industry still dominated by traditional<br />
attitudes. A challenge compounded by the<br />
fact that, for many younger diamantaires, it<br />
is older parents and family members who are<br />
still holding the reins.<br />
For Craig, it was meeting and establishing<br />
a close friendship with Rami Baron, a thirdgeneration<br />
jeweller who is well known in the<br />
Australian and international trade, that helped<br />
him navigate the generational changes and<br />
see the opportunities.<br />
“Rami was able to provide me with insights<br />
from his own experience on how to evaluate<br />
technology, innovation and disruption<br />
which are untapped opportunities for my<br />
generation,” Craig said. “I also realised that<br />
one can carry both product ranges, natural<br />
and lab grown, and there is no conflict, they<br />
are merely options. As long as there is full<br />
disclosure, who are we to limit a consumer’s<br />
choice?”<br />
“Together<br />
with my<br />
partners, we<br />
have launched<br />
JC Jewels, a<br />
more modern<br />
diamond<br />
merchant or,<br />
what I call,<br />
a tech diamond company. We introduced<br />
technology and disruption. JC Jewels<br />
embraces lab grown diamonds – the disruptor.<br />
My partners and I have brainstormed all the<br />
untapped areas we could develop, so we can<br />
ultimately help jewellers, evolve, grow their<br />
own margins and utilise technology to sell<br />
more. In a way, I like to think of JC Jewels as<br />
a tech start-up – we use technology to assist<br />
our clients, the retailers, to convert more sales<br />
and achieve a higher margin, by speeding up<br />
the process through technology, and creating<br />
a better presentation for their own clients.<br />
Every day, I ask my clients what tech we can<br />
build to make their selling easier.”<br />
Yet not everybody approved of this innovative<br />
business model.<br />
“My father was my mentor and teacher. He<br />
achieved almost every accomplishment in<br />
the South African diamond industry,”<br />
said Craig. “When I first walked into<br />
my father’s house with a lab grown<br />
diamond, I was told to take it out of<br />
his house and never to show him a<br />
lab grown diamond again.”<br />
Despite his father’s distrust of lab<br />
grown diamonds, Craig was committed<br />
to innovation.<br />
“I chose to be open-minded, and took my<br />
opinion from the consumer reaction, so I was<br />
directed by demand rather than emotional<br />
attachment to tradition.”<br />
JC Jewels places technology and innovation<br />
into the jeweller’s hands, offering lab<br />
grown, mined and Argyle pink diamonds in<br />
all sizes and mined diamonds.<br />
“We are a global office for ALTR created<br />
diamonds, the world’s leading lab grown<br />
diamond brand. Recently we added the<br />
diamonds with origin reports – these are<br />
diamonds which are blockchain enabled all<br />
the way from rough to polish. We also offer<br />
the service of Sarine Diamond Journey, with<br />
a replica of the diamond as it was found<br />
in the rough before cutting and polishing,<br />
so customers have a sense of how mined<br />
diamonds evolve from nature.”<br />
As customers have become more<br />
discerning, it is important for jewellers<br />
to be able to provide comprehensive<br />
information and a range of options.<br />
“With every purchase, there are choices.<br />
We can help jewellers present their<br />
customers with all the options and facts,<br />
along with the information to answer<br />
all their questions, so they can make an<br />
educated decision and the jewellers still<br />
make a sale.”<br />
And it’s not just the customers who are<br />
expanding their horizons and exploring<br />
new options. “When De Beers launched<br />
lab grown diamonds, my father called me<br />
to say: ‘Son, bring one of your lab grown<br />
diamonds over, so I can have a look at these<br />
stones.’ He realised that if De Beers was<br />
doing it, I must have been onto<br />
something.”<br />
<strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 35
John Chapman<br />
Gemetrix Pty Ltd<br />
Director<br />
DETECTING LAB-GROWN AND<br />
TREATED DIAMONDS<br />
with instruments made by an Australian company<br />
Advances in the commercial production of gem-quality diamonds grown artificially (also<br />
known as synthetic, laboratory-grown, man-made, etc) over the past decade have seen<br />
numerous instrument manufacturers develop equipment to detect such diamonds. The<br />
demands of the equipment depend on the business of the user. Some users require high<br />
processing rates for melee-size near-colourless loose diamonds, some need an instrument<br />
to detect mounted diamonds, while others might need a unit that can detect lab-grown or<br />
treated diamonds of any colour. Besides capability, cost is also usually a factor.<br />
The general principles of the available<br />
instruments are based on one or more<br />
of: UV transparency, luminescence<br />
(fluorescence, phosphorescence) or<br />
spectroscopy.<br />
A company in Perth, Gemetrix, has been<br />
developing and manufacturing instruments to<br />
assist gemmologists, jewellers and valuers to<br />
identify if a diamond (or other gem) has been<br />
grown artificially or has been colour treated.<br />
The company’s director, John Chapman, is<br />
a scientist and optical engineer who had<br />
formerly worked at Rio Tinto Diamonds<br />
developing systems to better extract, sort or<br />
grade diamonds. A few years ago he directed<br />
his attention towards a low-cost instrument<br />
suitable for those in the trade wishing to<br />
detect synthetic or treated diamonds and<br />
who do not need high processing rates or<br />
automation. Gemetrix’s first product was a<br />
PL Inspector that is a small compact model<br />
primarily for examining single stones. It<br />
incorporates UV at a short-wavelength (255<br />
nm) and a long wave-length (365 nm) with a<br />
magnifying lens for viewing.<br />
To test if a near-colourless (D-M) diamond is<br />
natural, the intensity of fluorescence at LW<br />
will be stronger than the SW. This provides<br />
an effective screening technique and over<br />
time a user can become familiar with the<br />
distribution of intensities and colours of LW<br />
fluorescence among a general population<br />
of natural diamonds and be able to make a<br />
quick assessment without the need for SW<br />
comparison.<br />
A general guide to the fluorescence reaction of colourless<br />
natural, CVD- and HPHT-grown diamonds for which<br />
natural diamonds have a more intense reaction to LWUV.<br />
SW also provides the ability to examine<br />
phosphorescence. Diamonds that have<br />
been grown using a high pressure and<br />
high temperature (HPHT) method usually<br />
phosphoresce. This characteristic is very useful<br />
for examining melee diamonds, because such<br />
diamonds are almost exclusively HPHT-grown.<br />
A ring showing phosphorescing diamonds alerts<br />
to the presence of HPHT-grown diamonds<br />
With a demand for examining parcels of<br />
diamonds and pieces of jewellery featuring<br />
multiple gems, a larger inspection unit was<br />
developed by Gemetrix.<br />
Called a ‘<strong>Jewellery</strong> Inspector’ it has a viewing<br />
area of 50 x 50 mm. When multiple gems<br />
are in a single view it can become difficult to<br />
mentally compare the LW and SW images for<br />
each stone. To address this issue, Gemetrix<br />
developed a smartphone app that allows<br />
capture of the LW and SW images and an<br />
ability to scan across the combined images<br />
comparing the LW and SW responses.<br />
36<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
This model also has a special tray for examining small parcels of loose diamonds, particularly<br />
melee sizes among which salting with artificial diamonds is notable. As mentioned above these<br />
artificial diamonds will phosphoresce, providing a quick and simple test. For users who only wish<br />
to examine melee diamonds and do not want the confusion of SW and LW, Gemetrix also offers a<br />
‘Melee Inspector’ that only features SW.<br />
For coloured diamonds and those having tints beyond around J, most automatic instruments are<br />
unsuitable. For example, an M-coloured artificial diamond will be deemed natural by instruments<br />
based on UV transparency. Most fancy coloured diamonds exhibit characteristic signatures if they<br />
are either artificial or have been colour treated. For example, a pink diamond that fluoresces<br />
bright orange is strongly indicative of colour treatment.<br />
A ‘<strong>Jewellery</strong> Inspector’ viewing the fluorescence of a<br />
collection of loose diamonds viewed with a smartphone<br />
app that allows comparison of SW and LW images<br />
While fluorescence can provide a good tool to identify growth method and treatments, it<br />
is limited by the eye’s response in that does not extend into the near infra-red nor can it<br />
identify spectral emission or absorption lines. Additionally, many diamonds may not fluoresce<br />
on account of high levels of a particular nitrogen defect that quenches fluorescence. Optical<br />
spectroscopy provides a more detailed analysis of either the fluorescence (PL) or light absorption<br />
characteristics. Where the fluorescence excitation is a laser, the resulting spectrum is commonly<br />
referred to as Raman. Besides the fluorescence emissions, a sharp emission (Raman) line will be<br />
present at a specific wavelength that corresponds to the nature of the crystal lattice. Such line<br />
can be used to confirm the identity of a gem as a diamond.<br />
The Perth company has recently developed a spectrometer<br />
system that combines both the capability of Raman/fluorescence<br />
and absorption spectroscopy. With some gems, an absorption<br />
spectrum is more useful than a PL one. Even with diamond, in<br />
some instances the PL spectrum may not show a 415 nm peak,<br />
however in absorption it will be conspicuous. Features such as<br />
those that indicate irradiation, are present as absorption (at 741<br />
nm) rather than PL emission. The Inspectrum system is unique in<br />
combining the PL and absorption in a single system and additionally<br />
it can record the absorption spectra with mounted goods, a useful<br />
feature for valuers. This optical configuration is also suited for<br />
analysing the reflection spectra of opaque stones such as jade.<br />
Gemetrix has further instruments under development hoping to<br />
release them during the coming year. Meanwhile, more artificial<br />
diamonds and treatments are coming onto the market, demanding<br />
greater vigilance by gem traders, jewellers and valuers.<br />
For further enquiries about Gemetrix’s products visit<br />
www.gemetrix.com.au<br />
+61 2 8065 8533<br />
info@sovereigngems.com<br />
Suite 5, Level 1<br />
428 George Street<br />
Sydney NSW 2000<br />
A PL spectrum of a light brown diamond<br />
revealing numerous defects (labelled) related<br />
to nitrogen (N) and vacancies (V).
DELFIN MECANO DIVES DEEP<br />
Sixty years ago, the Edox Delfin set the benchmark for dive watches.<br />
In the 1960s, the Delfin<br />
was known as the water<br />
champion of the watch<br />
industry, a timepiece<br />
tough enough to run like<br />
clockwork at crushing<br />
depths of 300m.<br />
Now, with the new Delfin<br />
Mecano, boutique Swiss<br />
watchmaker brings a 21st century twist to this legendary wristwatch.<br />
The Delfin Mecano is forged from the same DNA as its brilliant 1960s<br />
predecessor, able to function perfectly at up to 200m deep, thanks to<br />
the Double O-ring ‘seals’ and the screw-down crown. Edox has given<br />
the watch face an eye-catching makeover with a skeletonised dial and<br />
movement exposing some of the intricate motions of the automatic<br />
Calibre 853.<br />
Whatever the lighting – or however deep you may be under the<br />
waves – the Delfin Mecano’s display is always crystal clear, thanks to<br />
the SuperLuminova coating on the hands. The<br />
transparent case back reveals even more<br />
of the magical world of mechanical<br />
watches and this 43mm diameter<br />
timepiece provides up to 42 hours<br />
of power reserve. The 12-sided<br />
bezel which beautifully frames<br />
the skeletonised dial reflects the<br />
shape of Delfin watch bezels from<br />
the 1970s and is a reminder that<br />
while Edox continually pushes the<br />
boundaries of watchmaking it<br />
never forgets its heritage.<br />
Searay<br />
Pty Ltd<br />
www.searay.net.au - info@searay.net.au - (03) 9095 6070
Over the past 125 years, Swarovski has always lived by the values of their<br />
founder Daniel Swarovski, and this includes offering a customer experience<br />
equal to the brilliance of their stones. The Swarovski Created Diamond<br />
program is your guarantee of this same spirit, trust, and quality.<br />
Introducing the Swarovski Created Diamonds Retail Program<br />
Showcase Jewellers introduces the Swarovski Created Diamonds Retail Program which allows you to<br />
present this product offering in an exclusive way, while at the same time providing education to the<br />
end consumer as well as giving them a choice of beautifully crafted Swarovski Created Diamonds.<br />
Materials and resources to help you promote, educate and sell Swarovski Created Diamonds:<br />
Laser engraving on 0.10ct and larger, visible under 20x magnification<br />
Assortment six classic diamond shapes and 16 astonishing fancy colours<br />
Pioneering Technology CVD (chemical vapor deposition) growing technology<br />
Lab Report 0.70ct and larger are accompanied by a lab report from IGI<br />
Quality Certificate and Packaging the consumers guarantee of authenticity<br />
Presentation Tray professionally present selected Swarovski Created Diamonds to your client<br />
100 Percent Diamonds “Lab-created diamonds are cultivated in a laboratory, but their quality, strength,<br />
optical finish, and overall physical and chemical properties are absolutely identical to those of mined<br />
diamonds, which grow over millions of years beneath the earth.<br />
Swarovski Created Diamonds have all the characteristics of mined diamonds.“<br />
IGI - International Gemological Institute, 2016<br />
Swarovski Created Diamonds is exclusive to the Showcase Jewellers Group.<br />
For more information on how to become a member so you can offer this unparalleled Lab Created Diamonds brand to<br />
your clients and to learn about other exclusive benefits of being a Showcase Jewellers Member contact us via<br />
Email: enquiries@jimaco.com | Phone: (02) 8566 1800 | Visit: www.showcasejewellers.com.au
Laura Moore<br />
Moore Events<br />
Director<br />
PROACTIVE, NOT REACTIVE,<br />
CONSUMER RECRUITMENT.<br />
When the world is changing around us, to stay still is to be left behind. As an industry, we need<br />
to consider and act on global and consumer changes, to survive and thrive into the future.<br />
Each generation moves and shifts -<br />
adapting to technology, growing our<br />
understanding of culture and the world,<br />
and changing based on developments in<br />
research and understanding of each other and<br />
ourselves.<br />
These shifts take many different forms,<br />
from the more widespread acceptance of<br />
personalisation and individuality to awareness<br />
and, therefore, action in response to the<br />
changes we are making to our world and its<br />
survival.<br />
Generational changes are happening quicker<br />
than ever before, with the ability to see and<br />
react to not only the situations that directly<br />
affect us but also the ones that affect strangers<br />
from across the globe. In recent years and<br />
months, we have seen these situations play<br />
out before our very eyes, with some very real<br />
and very established global issues and some<br />
new ones, such as health pandemics we could<br />
never have predicted.<br />
Having these issues surround us daily, we<br />
slowly but surely change our fundamental<br />
needs and wants. Many of us are becoming<br />
more aware of how our actions and choices<br />
affect those around us and our planet.<br />
In particular, we are seeing younger<br />
generations taking action - and very seriously.<br />
They are changing their lives to ensure that<br />
they are the solution, not the problem, to the<br />
world's issues.<br />
These shifts in human<br />
behaviour and interest<br />
need to be understood<br />
and recognised as we<br />
develop and grow the<br />
jewellery industry.<br />
As consumers adapt<br />
to new a normal and<br />
their wants and needs<br />
change as a result, the<br />
way they buy and their<br />
receptiveness to brands and products will also<br />
change dramatically.<br />
As an industry, we need to not only be aware<br />
of these changes but also adapt ourselves<br />
to ensure that we are ready to respond to<br />
new consumer demands in the face of these<br />
changes.<br />
This requirement to understand our consumer<br />
goes hand in hand with our work on recruiting<br />
the next generation of buyer into the jewellery<br />
industry.<br />
Recruiting<br />
As this consumer - currently not old enough to<br />
purchase high-end jewellery - grows to an age<br />
where they want to mark a milestone like a<br />
relationship with something special, they may<br />
feel quite differently about purchases that the<br />
jewellery industry has historically been quite<br />
reliant on.<br />
For example, a 15-year-old girl growing up now<br />
in an age where issues such as climate change,<br />
gender equality, race issues and class systems<br />
are being challenged, and the traditional norms<br />
of a relationship are becoming the minority,<br />
may not feel comfortable buying or accepting<br />
a diamond ring if she is unsure of where its<br />
elements were mined, how it affected the<br />
environment and who was part of the process<br />
when making her piece.<br />
So how do we speak to her? How do we<br />
modify our message, our supply chain and our<br />
processes to ensure that when she is ready to<br />
buy jewellery, she will want to?<br />
40<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
Equality<br />
We have seen in recent years major brands<br />
such as Tiffany and Co, shift their campaign<br />
message to include all types of love. Their<br />
‘My kind of Love’ campaign released in 2015<br />
depicted their first gay and lesbian couple,<br />
strongly aligning the brand to support the<br />
LGBTQ community which at the time was<br />
forming to advocate for same sex marriage.<br />
The brand shifted their traditional message to<br />
include and support their evolving consumer,<br />
and it paid off.<br />
Further reactions to the Marriage Equality<br />
debate of 2016-2017 came from Michael<br />
Hill and a plethora of other brands. Including<br />
Australia’s Peter W Beck whose same sex<br />
marriage campaign was released in 2013 after<br />
recognising the shift in trend and demand for<br />
‘His and His’ wedding bands.<br />
But it’s not just the changes in relationship<br />
status that require the jewellery industry<br />
to sit up and take notice. Major jewellery<br />
brands have adjusted their models to factor in<br />
environmental causes and equality.<br />
production. The company is now also focusing<br />
on conservation of the environment and<br />
wildlife.<br />
In March 2018, Breitling launched a<br />
partnership with Ocean Conservancy, teaming<br />
up on a mission to clean, protect and conserve<br />
oceans and beaches.<br />
Watch brand TIVC -<br />
Time IV Change - is a<br />
vegan friendly brand,<br />
clearly targeting<br />
the significant<br />
shift in clean and<br />
environmentally<br />
neutral eating.<br />
What will be the<br />
next humanitarian<br />
shift that will require the jewellery industry<br />
to react? And perhaps rather than react,<br />
why don’t we act? Brands and businesses<br />
that actively stand for humanitarian and<br />
environmental causes are shown to gain more<br />
trust from their consumer, especially younger<br />
generations who are actively seeking out<br />
brands who stand for something.<br />
What do we do?<br />
As participants in this industry, large or small,<br />
it is not only our responsibility to make good<br />
choices for our consumer, but to convey that<br />
message and intention when recruiting new<br />
customers.<br />
As consumers continue to be more aware<br />
of their impact on the environment and the<br />
world around them, they will seek to change<br />
their behaviour to ensure that whatever<br />
their actions, that they will have a neutral or<br />
positive effect on the world.<br />
Proactive<br />
behaviour<br />
on our part,<br />
sourcing<br />
Australian<br />
product,<br />
reducing<br />
waste, and<br />
manufacturing locally, means that when that<br />
15-year-old is ready to buy jewellery, she will<br />
not only want to, she will be proud to!<br />
The Environment<br />
Over many decades, De Beers has led the way<br />
in changing the way the diamond industry<br />
sources stones and minimises its involvement<br />
in conflict diamonds. Partnering with the<br />
<strong>World</strong> Diamond Council and supporting the<br />
Kimberly process, De Beers continues to be<br />
a leader, pushing the industry to be more<br />
mindful and to take action around diamond<br />
<strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 41
By Cheryl D. Harty<br />
FRANCESCA COMBINES PURPOSE<br />
AND EMOTIONAL CONNECTION IN<br />
COLLECTION WITH A CAUSE<br />
Two sisters have created a jewellery label that appeals not only<br />
through its contemporary aesthetic and bespoke individuality, but<br />
an empowering ‘giving back’ purpose. A core tenet of the Francesca<br />
Collections brand is that “success means nothing unless you are giving back.” Over the past<br />
four years, the company has donated over $350,000 to charities Australia-wide.<br />
Hannah and Rachel Vasicek grew up in<br />
a small coastal town in NSW, where<br />
Francesca owner and co-founder,<br />
Hannah, attended beading classes and taught<br />
herself different techniques as a teen. As her<br />
younger sibling by five years, Rachel watched<br />
her as she made pieces and learned from<br />
Hannah the craft of making jewellery.<br />
A family move to Tasmania followed and<br />
in 2011, 16 year old Hannah began selling<br />
various pieces under the brand ‘Handmade<br />
by Hannah’ every Saturday at the popular<br />
waterfront Salamanca Market in Hobart.<br />
The jewellery stall was a creative sideline for<br />
Hannah as she studied Science and Law at<br />
university.<br />
Once her schooling<br />
was completed,<br />
Rachel joined her<br />
sister in 2013 and<br />
together they<br />
worked full-time<br />
on the jewellery<br />
business. Hannah<br />
took care of the<br />
business side of<br />
the brand while Rachel handled the creative<br />
aspect. As demand for the jewellery grew,<br />
Hannah rebranded the range, Francesca<br />
Collections, with the range including<br />
handmade bracelets and classic inspired<br />
pieces for mid 40 plus women.<br />
The growth of the business saw Hannah<br />
Vasicek win a Global Student Entrepreneur<br />
Award for Australia in 2013. It marked a<br />
turning point that saw her realise that her<br />
jewellery passion could be a serious career,<br />
and she put her legal ambitions aside.<br />
The Francesca brand is a fusion of both sisters’<br />
contrasting styles using gold, sterling silver<br />
and natural stones. Combining design with<br />
an empowering<br />
purpose and<br />
emotional<br />
connection, the<br />
brand’s designs<br />
have evolved to<br />
be a lot more<br />
conceptual<br />
and fashion<br />
focused since<br />
its beginnings.<br />
Included in the Francesca offer today are<br />
necklaces, earrings, rings, bracelets, bridal<br />
jewellery, engagement rings and watches.<br />
The popular bracelet stacks - known as Franc<br />
Stacks - are handmade in the Hobart studio<br />
using natural gemstones that have unique<br />
42<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
healing properties, such as Agate, the stone<br />
of strength and Moonstone, the stone of<br />
hope. Pearls also used and the bracelets have<br />
findings of rose gold, yellow gold, and silver.<br />
Stack bracelets are purchased and worn alone<br />
or in varied combinations and have been a<br />
popular line for the brand.<br />
Three years ago, the sisters decided to focus<br />
on more meaning in their pieces and this<br />
led to the inception of the Francesca Create<br />
collection. This collection enables customers<br />
to design a piece of jewellery themselves<br />
through an extensive charm collection, with<br />
each design holding a unique quote meaning.<br />
“Since introducing this collection the brand<br />
has seen exponential growth, with a very loyal<br />
customer base who collect the pieces for their<br />
meaning. Our Firenze Collection has definitely<br />
been one of our most striking collections.<br />
When you look at the statement earrings<br />
from that collection and connect the design<br />
features with the architecture of the Duomo,<br />
it is very special,” Francesca Collections<br />
Creative Director, Rachel Vasicek said.<br />
She pointed out the release of collections in<br />
the past two years has been slowed down a<br />
lot to allow the brand to design a single standout<br />
range for the year, accompanied by lots of<br />
smaller capsule collections. Last year's hero<br />
collection was ‘Firenze,’ which showcased<br />
designs inspired by the Duomo in Florence,<br />
and recreated family heirlooms.<br />
The sisters believe in Francesca keeping its<br />
price point fair for its customers. “We only<br />
work with solid sterling silver, gold filled or<br />
18k gold plating at 3 microns thickness, so<br />
considering the quality we are very reasonably<br />
priced,” Rachel said.<br />
Quality, unique design and desire to give<br />
meaning is Francesca’s greatest point of<br />
difference, she noted. “Our brand identity has<br />
become a lot clearer and so have the values<br />
the brand stands for. We have evolved mostly<br />
in the public eye as being a brand that is more<br />
than just a company that sells jewellery.<br />
Fifty per cent of Francesca jewellery is<br />
made in the Hobart studio and is comprised<br />
mainly of its iconic semi-precious stacking<br />
bracelets. “We love that we have been able to<br />
modernise the love we have for natural stones<br />
by creating this range,” Rachel said.<br />
Among the brand’s latest innovations is a<br />
patented charm design that allows customers<br />
to easily connect and interchange their charm<br />
to a bracelet or necklace without needing<br />
pliers.<br />
We have evolved<br />
mostly in the public<br />
eye as being a brand<br />
that is more than<br />
just a company that<br />
sells jewellery.<br />
<strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 43
Success means<br />
nothing unless you<br />
are giving back.<br />
Francesca currently has 40 employees<br />
ranging from retail staff to online dispatch,<br />
creatives and jewellery makers. “From the<br />
very beginning we have been passionate<br />
about keeping a lot of what we do in-house<br />
rather than outsourcing skills, allowing our<br />
team to constantly upskill. So everything from<br />
our product photography, website, dispatch<br />
and graphics, is all done in our Hobart<br />
headquarters.”<br />
An online store has seen exponential growth<br />
for the brand in the last few years and has<br />
enabled the designers to connect with new<br />
customers on a global scale. The bricks<br />
and mortar retail presence has also grown<br />
stronger with the opening of the Francesca<br />
flagship store in the Cat & Fiddle Arcade,<br />
Hobart in 2017, four years after the brand’s<br />
first tiny retail outlet opened on the outskirts<br />
of the city.<br />
In 2016, a store opened in Melbourne<br />
Central and has since undergone a major<br />
refurbishment. Following the refresh, the<br />
store reopened as another flagship store<br />
for the brand in 2019. The brand is also sold<br />
through pop ups from time to time. “We<br />
absolutely love connecting with our customers<br />
and our stores give them the Francesca<br />
experience that can often be hard to convey<br />
online,” Rachel, who has driven the digital<br />
marketing, design and operations of the<br />
business as it has expanded across Australia,<br />
said.<br />
Self-taught, Rachel educated herself in<br />
branding and marketing out of necessity<br />
during Francesca’s early days. Since then, she<br />
has grown her skillset across other business<br />
functions, including project management and<br />
growth strategy. In recent years, the Francesca<br />
brand has employed a team of non-English<br />
speaking refugee women and will soon shoot<br />
its first international campaign.<br />
The “success means nothing unless you are<br />
giving back” ethos has been a fundamental<br />
value for Hannah and Rachel personally. “It<br />
was crucial that our business had an avenue<br />
for giving back. Four years ago we launched<br />
our ‘Awareness Bracelet’ that donates and<br />
creates awareness for a different charity every<br />
month. In that time we have donated over<br />
$350k to charities Australia wide with our<br />
largest donation being $100,000 in January<br />
for the Australian bushfire crisis,” Rachel<br />
explained.<br />
Telstra, the nation’s leading<br />
telecommunication company, has<br />
acknowledged the business acumen of the<br />
Vasicek sisters and their jewellery brand. In<br />
2014, Hannah was a Telstra Micro Business of<br />
the Year finalist and the following<br />
year, Francesca Collections was<br />
named the 2015 Tasmanian Telstra<br />
Business of the Year. In May, Rachel<br />
won the <strong>2020</strong> Telstra Tasmanian<br />
Business Women’s Emerging Leader<br />
Award.<br />
“The awards are an incredible<br />
opportunity to reflect on what<br />
you have achieved and are a nice<br />
form of recognition. It can often<br />
be lonely when you’re at the top<br />
of the business driving the brand's<br />
development, and there’s not<br />
often someone there to give you<br />
a pat on the back. The awards are<br />
a really nice reflection of time and<br />
achievements,” Rachel commented.<br />
Both sisters attend the world<br />
jewellery fair every year in Hong<br />
Kong to find suppliers for their<br />
casted designs and packaging as well<br />
as hand selecting a year's worth of<br />
stones. In recent times, however,<br />
they found that some of their manufacturers<br />
in Hong Kong had closed their studios.<br />
“This didn’t impact us a great deal as we<br />
focused a lot more on designs we could make<br />
and release from our Hobart studio. It was a<br />
time for me as the designer to get a lot more<br />
creative and I adapted designs we already<br />
had to make them new again. This was a very<br />
refreshing process and inspired us to continue<br />
to innovate here in Australia more,” Rachel<br />
said.<br />
In their continued quest to give meaning<br />
to jewellery, the Vasicek sisters want the<br />
Francesca brand to focus more on sharing<br />
stories. “We often have customers share their<br />
personal stories with us and why they chose<br />
certain pieces and we think that is a really<br />
powerful avenue to focus on,” Rachel said.<br />
“Our big dream is to create the ‘Francesca<br />
Foundation’ as our direct charitable route.”<br />
44<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre<br />
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Wholesale & Fine <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
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KEEPING SKILLS ALIVE<br />
How to make a Traditional Solitaire Ring<br />
This tutorial demonstrates how to make a classic Solitaire Ring.<br />
This project has been used as an apprentice bench test for<br />
over 50 years and many old school goldsmiths will recognise<br />
this as a benchmark test for apprentices. The skills are still<br />
essential for today’s jeweller and requires advanced soldering<br />
and fabrication skills making it an ideal test for advanced<br />
apprentices and online learners.<br />
1The materials needed for this project<br />
are 6.5mm round CZ and 30mm x<br />
4.5mm x 4.5mm stock gauge sterling<br />
silver. Roll the silver to 3mm square and<br />
cut off a 20mm section to form the setting.<br />
Roll through the flat rolls to 1.1mm thick<br />
making sure that the width is no less than<br />
6mm. This will require some creative angle<br />
and width rolling.<br />
2Calculate the length required for the<br />
setting. Cut and square off the ends.<br />
Anneal the strip and form into a round<br />
bezel. You can use round nose pliers<br />
and parallel pliers to bring the ends together.<br />
Hammer the bezel into your 17° bezel block.<br />
Do not use the punch at this stage. Turn it<br />
over and hammer the other end until the<br />
joint tightens. The bezel may look deformed,<br />
but final shaping will be done once it is<br />
soldered.<br />
3To ensure you have a clean tight joint,<br />
you may need to cut through with a<br />
saw blade and re-tighten in the block<br />
before hard soldering.<br />
Hammer the bezel into the 9mm hole and<br />
once the bezel top is flush with the top of<br />
the block insert the punch and finish off the<br />
forming. You will need to be forceful. You<br />
will also notice that silver flashing will form<br />
around the outer edge. Cut this off, anneal<br />
and check that your stone sits on the inside<br />
edge of the setting without dropping in.<br />
4<br />
The top and sides of the setting will be<br />
angled perfectly but the bottom of the<br />
setting will have become distorted,<br />
so carefully file it flat, making sure it<br />
is perfectly parallel to the top. The height of<br />
the setting should be around 8mm. If not,<br />
perform more aggressive hammering in the<br />
block, then cut off 2mm from the bottom.<br />
This will become the under bezel later.<br />
Mark on the top of the bezel for 6 x 2mm<br />
wide perfectly positioned claws.<br />
5Mark a guideline halfway down the<br />
setting and use a 4/0 or 5/0 blade to<br />
cut down from the claw markings. Cut<br />
at a 45°angle until you contact the<br />
guideline, then angle cut across to take the<br />
sections between the claws out. Use a round<br />
needle file to shape the bottom of the drape<br />
cut. You could also use a round bur but try to<br />
use traditional skills. The old-school way to<br />
hold the setting as you work is to use shellac<br />
on a piece of wood doweling or a pencil.<br />
6<br />
Now turn the setting over. Line your<br />
saw blade up with the centre of<br />
the claws and cut from the bottom<br />
at 45° to the halfway mark. Use a<br />
three-square needle file to open the cut at<br />
the bottom. This creates the classic organ pipe<br />
effect once it has been rounded off.<br />
Remove all the scratches and tool marks with<br />
emery paper and use a bush mop to polish<br />
the bottom of the setting ready for the under<br />
bezel attachment.<br />
46<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>
7<br />
The small bezel that you prepared<br />
earlier will need to be formed further<br />
in the bezel block to make it a little<br />
higher and thinner. Prepare the top<br />
surfacefor polishing, then solder it to the<br />
bottom of the setting. Ensure it is positioned<br />
perfectly and use minimal solder, otherwise<br />
you may flood the triangular gaps. Pickle to<br />
remove the oxides.<br />
Now you can turn your attention to the<br />
ring shank. Roll the remaining silver to<br />
approximately 2.8mm x 2mm and cut it down<br />
to 50mm.<br />
8<br />
Anneal the strip and bend it into a ring<br />
shape. The ring finger size will be very<br />
small, but it will increase in size later.<br />
Solder, using hard grade.<br />
Start the forging by hammering the opposite<br />
side to the solder joint. Reduce the thickness<br />
to around 1.8mm and the width to 3mm.<br />
Forge the joint side on a flat stake to reduce<br />
the width and build up the thicknessat the top<br />
to approximately 2.7mm thick x 2mm wide.<br />
The dimension will reduce a little more once<br />
you have filled and emery cleaned off the<br />
dents and tool marks.<br />
9<br />
Set your dividers to just over 1mm<br />
and scribe a 10mm line from the inside<br />
edge of the top of the ring. The solder<br />
joint should be in the middle.<br />
Cut from the solder joint on top of the ring<br />
down to the line and carefully turn the saw<br />
cut 90° to cut along the scribe line. Cut both<br />
sides ensuring that your saw cutting stays<br />
directly on the scribe line.<br />
10<br />
Prise the shoulders open with<br />
a pen knife until you can grab<br />
them with your chain nose<br />
pliers. Bend the shoulders up<br />
into a nice sweeping curve, making sure they<br />
are symmetrical. Place the setting against the<br />
ring and mark off along the under bezel. Cut<br />
out the rail section so that the setting fits into<br />
the gap. You may need to trim off parts of the<br />
shoulder ends so that the four joints all make<br />
contact and the setting is lined up perfectly.<br />
11components together. Flux and use<br />
Once the setting fits and is lined<br />
up perfectly with no joint gaps,<br />
use binding wire to hold the two<br />
the minimum amount of medium grade solder<br />
on the joints. It is recommended that you<br />
solder one joint first, allow to cool, then check<br />
that the components are correctly lined up<br />
before finishing the solder operation.<br />
The traditional way to dress open shoulders is<br />
to solder a small section of chenier tube into<br />
them. Use the remaining silver to make the<br />
tube (instructions are in the video).<br />
12<br />
tube shoulder joints.<br />
Use a minimal amount of solder<br />
to ensure all the decorative<br />
detail is kept. Pickle, and trim<br />
off any excess solder around the<br />
Polish all surfaces including the inside of the<br />
settings. The ring is now finished and ready<br />
for assessment before stone setting.<br />
Peter Keep is a<br />
master jeweller<br />
and teacher. He<br />
offers structured<br />
online courses<br />
that have helped<br />
thousands of<br />
students around<br />
the world improve<br />
their skills.<br />
This online course includes six videos with<br />
detailed instructions.<br />
www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au/<br />
courses/traditional-solitaire-ring<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Training Solutions is helping to train the next generation of jewellers<br />
and offers a comprehensive online training service for including the popular<br />
industry recognised Ten Stage Apprenticeship Course.<br />
Check out all the courses and options.<br />
www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au<br />
<strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 47
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Collection for Spring/Summer <strong>2020</strong> is filled with gorgeous details.<br />
Layering is set to be a key trend this season with this injection of<br />
delicate necklaces and earrings featuring colourful stones. Pictured<br />
here are the Lana and Tail Feather necklaces and Delta Hoops with<br />
lapis, jade and pink crystals.<br />
www.dearaddison.com.au<br />
Pastiche | +61 2 9452 4981<br />
The Sienna Collection showcases unique<br />
Pastiche designs combining golden tones<br />
and on-trend styles crafted in stainless steel<br />
or solid sterling silver. This collection will be<br />
a hit with your customers as most pieces<br />
retail for under $100! Exciting additions<br />
to this season include the Willow and<br />
Savannah sets in sterling silver as well as the<br />
beautifully light Mosaic set in stainless steel.<br />
www.pastiche.com.au<br />
50<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />
Ikecho | +61 2 9266 0636<br />
9ct rg natual pink edison 13mm freshwater pearl<br />
diamond shepherd hook earrings .04ct<br />
www.ikecho.com.au
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