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KOI (“Kids of Ike”)

The creations that come out of Ryde’s KOI Dessert Kitchen

are situated on the cusp of modernist art, bringing an

avant-garde twist to the culinary scene. It’s food as

experimentation. As a way to manipulate textures and push

past boundaries. As reinvention of what desserts look, feel,

and taste like.

Inside, it is bright and open; elegantly furnished. The

desserts are displayed along a marble countertop, ranging

from fruity naked tarts to the intricately decorated, multicoloured

jars. Seeing them arranged into neat rows,

waiting for purchase, is a sight to behold.

The co-founder of KOI, Reynold Poernomo, is sitting with

us in a venue that operates as a café and a classroom, a

space where patrons can enjoy both the creation and the

consumption of food. Behind us, in the large industrial

kitchen, there’s an occasional clatter of trays as KOI’s

dessert chefs glaze their famous mango-yuzu cakes

and popcorn mousses. The intricacy of these desserts

is reminiscent of the dishes served by Reynold himself

as a contestant in the MasterChef kitchen of Season 7 –

pleasing to look at, equally enjoyable to taste. Since then,

Reynold’s name has become almost synonymous with

Sydney’s vibrant and innovative dessert scene.

“I can’t take all the credit for myself, that’s for sure,”

Reynold says about his rise to the top. His eyes move

towards the kitchen where his mother, Ike Malada, is

working alongside the other chefs.

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