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Colour Chronicle - Sept 2010 - Clariant

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<strong>Colour</strong> <strong>Chronicle</strong><br />

A <strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited Publication<br />

for Textile, Leather and Paper<br />

31 st year of publication<br />

Number 1 | <strong>2010</strong>


colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong><br />

Contents<br />

Textile 3<br />

Optical Brighteners<br />

Oligomer Dispersant<br />

New black pigment dispersion for printing & dyeing<br />

Pigment Printing<br />

Advanced Denim<br />

Q&A 13<br />

Textile - An Essential, Rich Heritage<br />

Paper 16<br />

Cartabond ® cross linkers<br />

New Arrivals 19<br />

Inside Views 20<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals focus on Melioderm<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> in ITMA Shanghai<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals – Towards a more sustainable solution<br />

Gleanings from Press 22<br />

2 colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong>


Optical Brighteners<br />

New focused global product Range<br />

Polyester Polyamide Polyacryl Cotton Plastic<br />

Hostalux ETB Leucophor PAT Hostalux ACK Leucophor BSB Hostalux KCB<br />

Hostalux ETBN Hostalux PN Hostalux SNR Leucophor BSBB Hostalux KS<br />

Hostalux ERE Hostalux PNB Hostalux NSM Leucophor PC Hostalux KSN<br />

Hostalux EREN Hostalux CPA Leucophor BMF Hostalux KSB3<br />

Hostalux ESR Leucophor BMB Hostalux KSK<br />

Hostalux ES2R Leucophor BLR Hostalux KS1<br />

Hostalux EF Leucophor BLB Hostalux KS1B<br />

Leucophor EFN Hostalux KS2<br />

Hostalux ENP 400 Hostalux KS2S<br />

Hostalux ENP-N Leucopure EGM<br />

Hostalux 2902<br />

Optical Brighteners - OBA for Wool<br />

Heatalux Leucophor Leucophor Leucophor<br />

PR p PAT lq BSB lq PC lq<br />

Technical data<br />

Commercial for Powder liquid liquid liquid<br />

Density at 20°C = g/cm3 1.12+/– 0.03 1.12+/– 0.05 1.12+/– 0.05<br />

Bulk density = g/l 300 g/l<br />

Ionic character anionic anionic anionic anionic<br />

Substantivity high high medium high<br />

Shade reddish reddish bluish reddish<br />

Resistance in solutions to :<br />

Hard water good conditional good good<br />

Acids up to pH 1 1 6 3.5<br />

Alkalis upto °Bé resp. pH 10 10 2 2<br />

Sodium hydrosulphite very good very good very good very good<br />

Hydrogen peroxide conditional – very good very good<br />

Sodium hypochlorite – – – –<br />

Sodium chlorite – – – –<br />

Compatibility in solution with :<br />

Anionic wetting agents and<br />

softeners very good very good very good very good<br />

Non-ionic wetting agents and<br />

softeners very good very good very good very good<br />

Cationic softeners not recommended<br />

textile<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong> 3


4<br />

textile<br />

Heatalux Leucophor Leucophor Leucophor<br />

PR p<br />

Technical data exhaust process:<br />

PAT lq BSB lq PC lq<br />

Acid (at pH) 3-4 5-6 >5.5 >3.5<br />

– at temp. range 50-60°C 50-60°C 50-60°C 50-60°C<br />

– dosage 0.2-0.8% 0.1-2.0% 0.1-1% 0.1-1%<br />

Reductive bleach (Arosit BLN) + + – +<br />

– at temp. range 50-60°C 50-60°C – +<br />

– dosage 0.6-1.2% 0.1-3.0% 0.1-1.5%<br />

– acid addition required at end no non no<br />

Chlorite bleach<br />

– at temp. range<br />

– dosage<br />

– – – –<br />

Technical data<br />

Light fastness in Xenontest<br />

ISO 105/Bo2, DIN 54004<br />

2-3 2 2-3 2-3<br />

Wash 1, 40°C<br />

ISO 105/Co1, DIN 54014<br />

4-5 2-3 4 4<br />

Perspiration, acid<br />

ISO 105/E04, DIN 540 20<br />

Step 1: Prewashing<br />

4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5<br />

1.5g/l Hostapal MRZ liq / MRN liq conc 150<br />

0.5g/l Ammonia-solution<br />

45min. at 50°C<br />

100<br />

Step 2: Peroxide-bleach<br />

20ml/l H2O2 (35%)<br />

1.5g/l tetra-sodium-diphosphate<br />

1.5g/l Ammonia-solution<br />

4h. at 45°C<br />

Step 3: Reductive-bleach + optical<br />

brightener<br />

3g/l Arostit BLN<br />

X% Leucophor PAT / Hostalux PR<br />

pH 5 with acetic acid<br />

60 min. at 50°C<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong><br />

50<br />

0<br />

-50<br />

-100<br />

-150<br />

grey step 2:<br />

peroxidebleach<br />

step 3:<br />

reduktivebleach<br />

+<br />

0.3%<br />

Leukophor<br />

PAT lq.<br />

step 3:<br />

reduktivebleach<br />

+<br />

1.0%<br />

Leukophor<br />

PAT lq.


Oligomer Dispersant<br />

Lyocol POD liq<br />

L yocol® POD liquid is a special dispersing<br />

agent which reduces the precipitation<br />

and deposition of oligomers on Polyester<br />

fi bers and in the dyeing machinery.<br />

It is used directly in the dye-bath<br />

together with other dyeing auxiliaries like<br />

leveling, dispersing agent usually used<br />

for dyeing Polyester fi bers by exhaust<br />

process.<br />

Application amounts:<br />

Package dyeing 2- 4 % Lyocol POD liq<br />

Jet dyeing 1 - 2 % Lyocol POD liq<br />

The main features for Lyocol POD liq are:<br />

It has an outstanding dispersing effect<br />

on PET-oligomers<br />

It is used directly in the dyebath<br />

It improves the re-winding properties<br />

of Polyester yarns<br />

It has no infl uence on the shade and<br />

colour yield<br />

It does not contribute in thermomigration<br />

of disperse dyes<br />

The Physico-chemical properties of Lyocol<br />

POD liq are:<br />

Clear yellow liquid<br />

Anionic<br />

Readily dilutable with water<br />

Stable to hard water, acids, alkalis and<br />

salts<br />

Compatible with most anionic and nonionic<br />

products<br />

Oligomers and<br />

Problems in PES dyeing<br />

What are oligomers ?<br />

During the production of polyethylenterephthalate<br />

(PET) fi bers<br />

short chains, consisting of only a few<br />

monomers units, are also formed, these<br />

are so called oligomers.<br />

The main component is a cyclic<br />

trimmer.<br />

All Polyester fi bers contain small<br />

quantities of oligomers,<br />

Approx. 0.5% - 3% of the fi ber<br />

O O<br />

O O<br />

O O<br />

O O<br />

O<br />

O<br />

c [G-T] 3<br />

cyclic Polyester Trimer<br />

O<br />

O<br />

Why do oligomers cause problems in<br />

exhaust dyeing ?<br />

During the exhaust dyeing process the<br />

oligomers may diffuse out of the Polyester<br />

fi ber and form grey deposits (white dust)<br />

on the fi ber surface and also on machinery<br />

and pipes during cooling down of the<br />

dyebath.<br />

Deposits on 100% PES yarn<br />

after package dyeing process<br />

Deposits on 100% PES woven fabric<br />

after beam dyeing process<br />

textile<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong> 5


6<br />

textile<br />

Dyed Polyester woven fabric - regular and<br />

with oligomers on the surface<br />

60 x enlarged<br />

Problems caused by Oligomer deposits<br />

leading to :<br />

Extended dyeing time<br />

High dyeing temperature<br />

Higher energy costs<br />

Dusting during coning and spinning<br />

Solutions to reduce oligomer deposition :<br />

Selection of disperse dyes<br />

Short dyeing time<br />

Dyeing in alkaline medium<br />

Drop the dyebath at high temperature<br />

(HT-drain)<br />

Intensive reduction clearing process<br />

Selection of special auxiliaries - Lyocol<br />

POD liq.<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong><br />

Results from the practice....<br />

.....package dyeing of 100% PES yarn in a black shade<br />

conventional dyeing process<br />

Oligomer deposits on the top<br />

and inside of the cone after dyeing<br />

.....beam dyeing of 100% PES woven fabric<br />

conventional dyeing process<br />

Oligomer deposits on the first layers<br />

(30-50 meter) of the woven fabric on the beam<br />

Dispersing effect on oligomers<br />

with 3% Lyocol POD liq in the dyebath<br />

with 3% Lyocol POD liq in the dyebath<br />

Lyocol POD liq. has an outstanding dispersing power on Polyester Oligomer in the<br />

dyebath<br />

Without dispersing agent<br />

With 4 g Lyocol POD liq.<br />

Condition:<br />

– Surfactant/dispersant solution in buffer pH<br />

4.5 at room temperature after ca. 15 min<br />

– 0.1 g polyester oligomers / l solution


Lyocol POD liq - Thermomigration<br />

Lyocol POD liq. does not promote the thermo-migration of disperse dyes due to its<br />

anionic character.<br />

Domestic laundering 60°C (ISO105/C06)<br />

post-fixation 180°C - 30s<br />

without product<br />

post-fixation 180°C - 30s<br />

with 2% Lyocol POD liq.<br />

post-fixation 180°C - 30s<br />

with 4% Lyocol POD liq.<br />

post-fixation 180°C - 30s<br />

with 6% Lyocol POD liq.<br />

0.92% Foron Rubine SWF<br />

Typ CA CO PA 6.6 PES PAN CV<br />

Lyocol POD liq. has no infl uence on the shade, i.e. no retarding / blocking effect on<br />

disperse dyes.<br />

without 2% Lyocol POD liq 4% Lyocol POD liq 6% Lyocol POD liq<br />

Typ DE 0.1 (CMC2:1) DE 0.1 (CMC 2:1) DE 0.2 (CMC 2:1)<br />

Typ DE 0.1 (CMC2:1) DE 0.1 (CMC 2:1) DE 0.1 (CMC 2:1)<br />

Typ DE 0.1 (CMC2:1) DE 0.1 (CMC 2:1) DE 0.1 (CMC 2:1)<br />

Advantages and Summary :<br />

Lyocol POD liq. is used directly in the dyebath and RC bath<br />

It has no negative effect on the fastness<br />

It does not contribute in thermo-migration of Disperse dyes<br />

It improves the quality and handle of the goods<br />

Lyocol POD liquid is a special dyebath and RC bath auxiliary which shows an outstanding<br />

dispersing effect on Polyester oligomers, thus it is possible to overcome the oligomer<br />

problems in a very effective and easy way.<br />

4.5<br />

4.4<br />

4.4<br />

4.5<br />

textile<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong> 7


8<br />

textile title<br />

New black pigment dispersion for<br />

printing and dyeing<br />

Printofix Super Black R-SZ<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> is offering a truly Non- Gelling<br />

Black Pigment Dispersion “Printofi x<br />

Super Black R-SZ”<br />

It is having various properties like:<br />

Completely non-gelling behavior<br />

Easy to use; low viscosity<br />

Very high fastness level<br />

Provides stable viscosity to the print<br />

paste<br />

Fine Dispersion helps to get the better<br />

fastness with no build-up on screen<br />

No need to make separate stock paste<br />

for Black.<br />

Trouble-free addition/correction to<br />

other pigment paste<br />

Compatible with other Printofi x<br />

Auxiliaries<br />

The guide line recipe for the Printofi x<br />

Super Black R-SZ is as follows:<br />

Stock Thickening<br />

Water X Parts<br />

Ammonia 1.00 Parts<br />

Printofix Thickener CA 1.20 Parts<br />

Printofix Binder ITL liq 24.00 Parts<br />

Printofix Fixing Agent 1.50 Parts<br />

CCL liq<br />

Total 100.00 Parts<br />

Viscosity in CPS 54000<br />

Print Paste<br />

Black Pigment 8.00 Parts<br />

Above Stock Thickening 92.00 Parts<br />

Total 100.00 Parts<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong><br />

Observations –<br />

Stock Paste Viscosity: 54000 cps<br />

Pigment under Test <strong>Colour</strong> Value After Pigment Addition After 24 Hrs<br />

Viscosity (cps) Condition Viscosity (cps) Condition<br />

Conventional non-gelling<br />

black from market<br />

100.00% 66000 Gelled — Total Gel<br />

Printofix Supra Black R-SZ 102.12% 58000 No Change 60000 No Change<br />

Conventional non-gelling black<br />

from market<br />

8% Printofix Super Black R-SZ<br />

Rubbing Fastness<br />

Dry Wet<br />

GS Value: 4.28 2.05<br />

GS Rating: 4-5 2<br />

Dry Wet<br />

GS Value: 4.43 2.78<br />

GS Rating: 4-5 3<br />

Measured on Brook field viscometer<br />

(Synchro Lectric)<br />

Spindle no.- 4<br />

RMP - 6


Pigment Printing<br />

New Developments in Pigment Printing<br />

Within textile printing, pigment<br />

printing holds a leading position.<br />

Almost 50% of all prints worldwide<br />

are produced by this printing method.<br />

Since its beginnings, this technology has<br />

continuously been developed and the<br />

performance of the pigment preparations,<br />

binders and thickeners employed<br />

optimised.<br />

Pigment Printing can be defi ned as<br />

laying on a fabric a paste containing the<br />

pigment, binders, thickener and various<br />

additives via screen within the pattern<br />

required. This defi nition greatly oversimplifi<br />

es the tremendous development<br />

work done over the last 40 years on<br />

polymer and pigment technology. <strong>Clariant</strong><br />

has developed the Printofix Concept which<br />

has evolved over the years in serving the<br />

industry around the world. This system<br />

includes all of the components required<br />

to produce high quality pigment printed<br />

goods and can be used to formulate recipes<br />

to achieve necessary results. Nowadays<br />

the major requirement is Ecology,<br />

Economy, Fastness and Softness. This<br />

paper is presented to discuss the recent<br />

developments in this fi eld to fulfi l the high<br />

demands in practice.<br />

Formaldehyde Free<br />

Pigment Printing<br />

What is the concern about formaldehyde ?<br />

Formaldehyde has been classifi ed as<br />

a known human carcinogen (Cancer<br />

causing substance) by the International<br />

Agency for Research on Cancer and as a<br />

probable human carcinogen by the U.S.<br />

Environmental Protection Agency. Health<br />

of human beings can be adversely affected<br />

by formaldehyde. Various types of skin<br />

allergies may be caused, if formaldehyde<br />

containing textile products are in direct<br />

contact with human skin. Research studies<br />

of workers exposed to formaldehyde<br />

have suggested an association between<br />

formaldehyde exposure and several<br />

cancers, including Leukaemia.<br />

Test Methods<br />

There are various test methods<br />

available like Japan Law 112, Shirley<br />

test, AATCC112 based on extraction<br />

or absorption method. Washing of<br />

the prints or the use of urea and other<br />

formaldehyde scavengers can reduce the<br />

free formaldehyde content of the textiles to<br />

an extend but there are still formaldehyde<br />

based chemicals on the textile which can<br />

release formaldehyde depending on time<br />

and exposed temperature during transport<br />

and storage of the textiles.<br />

Future without Formaldehyde<br />

Only chemicals which are not based<br />

on formaldehyde containing chemistry<br />

can assure producers, retailers and endusers<br />

that the textile does not contain<br />

formaldehyde in any stage of the textiles<br />

life-cycle. <strong>Clariant</strong> offers a complete<br />

package of auxiliaries and colorants for<br />

pigment printing which are not containing<br />

formaldehyde.<br />

Printofix Binder Printofix Binder ITL<br />

Printofix Binder T20-20<br />

Printofix Thickener Printofix Thickener CA/CN<br />

Printofix Thickener ECS<br />

Printofix Thickener CSN/<br />

CSFN<br />

Printofix Fixer Printofix Fixing Agent ZF<br />

Printofix Softener Printofix Softener SFT<br />

Printofix Softener H-P<br />

Printofix Rheology Printogen RM<br />

Modifier<br />

Printofix Pigments Printofix “T” “A” and “R”<br />

Range<br />

textile<br />

Stock Paste Receipe<br />

Water X parts<br />

Urea 20 - 40 parts<br />

** Ammonia (25%) 5 - 10 parts<br />

Printofix Binder ITL 80 - 200 parts<br />

Printogen RM 2 - 3 parts<br />

Printofix Softener SFT 5 - 15 parts<br />

Printofix Thickener CA liq. 14 - 16 parts<br />

Printofix Fixing Agent ZF 10 - 15 parts<br />

Total 1000 parts<br />

This package enables prints with soft<br />

handle and very good dry and wet rubbing<br />

fastness level without any formaldehyde,<br />

neither free formaldehyde, nor released or<br />

bound.<br />

Soft Printing Package<br />

for Pigment Printing<br />

After printing and drying, the printed<br />

fabrics are set with hot air under specifi c<br />

conditions (Curing).<br />

After curing the water evaporates and<br />

non-volatile components like binder,<br />

pigments, cross-linking agents, thickener<br />

and other additives remain on the fabric.<br />

The resultant “handle” of the printed fabric<br />

depends mainly on monomer composition<br />

of binder and extent and type of crosslinking.<br />

The Printofi x soft system is aimed<br />

to overcome the traditional perception of<br />

pigment printing associated with harsher<br />

handle.<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong> 9


10<br />

textile<br />

The two main components of Printofix Soft<br />

Package are:<br />

Printofix Binder T20-20: New acrylic<br />

binder gives brilliant prints with very good<br />

all over fastness. It produces prints with a<br />

pleasingly soft handle.<br />

Printofix Softener SFT: Special reactive<br />

polysiloxane softener. Improves handle<br />

and dry rub fastness with no negative<br />

infl uence on wet rub fastness.<br />

GOTS Approved<br />

Pigment Printing<br />

What is GOTS<br />

Organic cotton is grown using methods<br />

and materials that have a low impact on the<br />

environment. Organic production systems<br />

replenish and maintain soil fertility, reduce<br />

the use of toxic and persistent pesticides and<br />

fertilizers, and build biologically diverse<br />

agriculture. Third-party certifi cation<br />

organizations verify that organic producers<br />

use only methods and materials allowed in<br />

organic production<br />

The aim of the Global Organic Textile<br />

Standard (GOTS) is to defi ne requirements<br />

to ensure organic status of textiles, from<br />

harvesting of the raw materials, through<br />

environmentally and socially responsible<br />

manufacturing up to labelling in order<br />

to provide a credible assurance to the<br />

end consumer. This standard for organic<br />

textiles covers the production, processing,<br />

manufacturing, packaging, labelling,<br />

exportation, importation and distribution of<br />

all natural fi bres.<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong><br />

Advantages of organic cotton<br />

Many allergies are a direct result of<br />

chemicals in cotton fi bers we either wear,<br />

or sleep on. Non-organic cotton is produced<br />

in a way that causes great damage to<br />

the environment. It cannot be sustained<br />

without high levels of synthetic fertilizers<br />

and pesticides. Pesticides kill, cause<br />

serious disease in human, and can be fatal<br />

to farmers and farm workers who spray<br />

them on the crop. Toxic chemical residue<br />

remains in industrially treated fi bers, in our<br />

clothing and bedding. Persistent contact<br />

with the skin can aggravate a variety of<br />

allergies and allergic symptoms, especially<br />

for those with asthma and multiple<br />

chemical sensitivities.<br />

Eliminating the usage of these chemicals,<br />

not only benefi t the surrounding<br />

environment, but also benefi ts users.<br />

Key criteria for processing<br />

At all stages through the processing<br />

organic fi bre products must be separated<br />

from conventional fi bre products and<br />

must to be clearly identifi ed<br />

All chemical inputs (e.g. dyes,<br />

auxiliaries and process chemicals)<br />

must be evaluated and meeting<br />

basic requirements on toxicity and<br />

biodegradability/eliminability<br />

Prohibition of critical inputs such as<br />

toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde,<br />

aromatic solvents, genetically modifi ed<br />

organisms (GMO) and their enzymes.<br />

GOTS Approved products for Pigment Printing<br />

Printofix<br />

Thickener<br />

Thickener<br />

CA<br />

Thickener<br />

CSN<br />

Thickener<br />

ECS<br />

Printofix<br />

Binder<br />

Binder<br />

ITL<br />

Binder<br />

T20-20<br />

Printofix<br />

Dispersions<br />

Yellow A-I<br />

Orange A-D<br />

Red T-N01<br />

Pink T-E<br />

Blue T-K<br />

Blue T-P<br />

Navy R-B<br />

Blue R-BN<br />

Black R-NG<br />

Black A-C<br />

Super<br />

Black R-SZ<br />

Printofix<br />

Softener<br />

Softener<br />

H-P<br />

Printofix<br />

Specials<br />

Printogen<br />

RM


Advanced Denim:<br />

the synergy between ecology, technology and fashion<br />

For more than a century, indigo has been<br />

used as the principle dyestuff in the<br />

production of standard blue denim cotton<br />

fabrics. However, indigo has a limited range<br />

of effects and during the 1980s, traditional<br />

sulphur dyestuffs were combined with<br />

indigo in toppings and bottoming to create<br />

new looks and effects.<br />

The introduction of new Diresul ® RDT<br />

Indiblue dyes (Diresul Indiblue RDT-R<br />

and Diresul Indiblue RDT-G liquid) for<br />

use with indigo at even in indigo-free<br />

applications represented an excellent<br />

beginning to a new range of special denim<br />

products for the market.<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> has launched Advanced<br />

Denim, a concept based on two new<br />

sulphur dyes Diresul Indinavy RDT-B<br />

liq and Diresul Indiblack RDT-2R liq<br />

to complete the range focusing on after<br />

products technologies and applications<br />

that comply with environmental factors as<br />

well as health and safety standards. The<br />

range also fulfi lls the demands of style<br />

and quality performance for tomorrow’s<br />

fashion.<br />

How to achieve Advanced Denim<br />

Selection of Diresul RDT dyes and<br />

Diresul RDT Indicolors specialties<br />

Selection of dyeing auxiliaries<br />

Specifi c wash-down process<br />

Individual <strong>Clariant</strong> denim dyeing<br />

processes<br />

Diresul RDT liq<br />

These are pre-reduced, ready-to-use<br />

sulphur dyes in a totally stable liquid form<br />

and a very low sodium sulphide content.<br />

The use of biodegradable reducing agents<br />

along with the Diresul RDT dyes ensures<br />

sulphide-free fi nal effl uents and the absence<br />

of unpleasant odors during application.<br />

Diresul Indinavy RDT-B liq produces deeper<br />

and faster blues to offer the market new<br />

and interesting effects. Diresul Indiblack<br />

RDT-2R liq achieves an amazing range of<br />

black, gray and blue effects.<br />

Eco-bleach wash-down<br />

The new chemistry of Diresul Indicolors<br />

achieves an amazing scope of shades and<br />

ensures AOX-free garments.<br />

Pad-Ox dyeing process<br />

Water shortages are a well-known problem<br />

in many regions and water is a resource<br />

that should be preserved. The Pad-Ox<br />

process – also used in Diresul dyeing<br />

for denim – was designed with the clear<br />

objective of preserving the environment by<br />

using a simple and versatile process, while<br />

providing the same performance as existing<br />

processes and even new possibilities of<br />

controlling dyeing penetration for washdown<br />

effects.<br />

Ecological, economical and technical<br />

advantage of Pad-Ox process at a glance:<br />

Lowest possible water consumption<br />

No washing before oxidation<br />

Color-free waste water<br />

Lower reducing agent consumption<br />

Simple and versatile process<br />

High fl exibility<br />

High reproducibility<br />

High productivity<br />

Quick and effi cient color shift<br />

Suitable for wash-down effects<br />

Good fastness level<br />

The Advanced Denim<br />

Concept<br />

Technology<br />

Fast to repeated washing<br />

Good rubbing fastness<br />

Easy application process<br />

Suitable for Pad-Ox process<br />

Suitable for coating system (binderfree)<br />

No yellowing problems<br />

textile<br />

Ecology<br />

Ecological dyeing process (no<br />

hydrosulphite, lower water consumption)<br />

Denim in line with GOTS<br />

Wash-down bleaching without hypochlorite<br />

(AOX-free)<br />

Ecological reducing agent<br />

Fashion Effects<br />

Dark denim<br />

Ring denim<br />

Solid denim<br />

Rich variety of shades<br />

Inalterable raw denim<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong> 11


12<br />

textile<br />

New Indicolors Specialties<br />

Two new dyestuffs for the denim market broaden the Diresul<br />

Indicolors range:<br />

Diresul Indinavy RDT-B liq Diresul Indiblack RDT-2B liq<br />

Diresul Indinavy RDT-B liq and Diresul Indiblack RDT-2R liq<br />

enable you to:<br />

Obtain a real blue-denim look by conventional sulpher<br />

dyeing routes<br />

Control diffusion of dyestuff for ring / solid effects by<br />

different dyeing processes<br />

Apply the dyestuffs in bottoming / topping applications<br />

Have wide shading fl exibility<br />

Offer the most sustainable denim:<br />

– Minimal water consumption and lowest possible effl uent<br />

generation (Denim process)<br />

– Sulphur dyestuffs with the lowest sulphide content<br />

(Diresul RDT liq)<br />

– Sulphite-free effl uents in WTP (Biodegradable reducing<br />

agents)<br />

– AOX-free garments (Eco-bleach wash down)<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong><br />

Denim process example<br />

1. Mercerzing 2. Rinsing 80ºC 3. Rinsing 80ºC<br />

Caustic soda 18-20’ºBe<br />

10 g/l Mercerol QWLF liq<br />

3 g/l Sririx AK liq<br />

4-5. Dyeing 60-90ºC 5. Rinsing 50ºC<br />

Diresul Indinavy RDT-B liq 150-250 g/l<br />

or<br />

Diresul Indiblack RDT-2R liq 150-250 g/l<br />

20-25 g/l Reductor D p<br />

20-25 g/l NaOH 50%<br />

3-7 g/l Leonil EHC liq Conc<br />

2 g Ladiquest 2005 liq<br />

6. Oxidation 30ºC 7. Rinsing 50ºC 8. Rinsing cold<br />

5-7 g/l Diresul Oxidant BRI liq<br />

Acetic Acid pH 4-4.5<br />

Wide range of blue / black / gray tones from one dyeing using different chemical wash-down recipes<br />

Both dyestuffs can be applied in many other denim processes.<br />

A. Sodium hypochlorite bleach B. Sodium hypochlorite bleach C. Light ECO bleach D. Strong ECO bleach<br />

5-10 g/l Available chlorine 5-10 g/l Available chlorine 5-10 g/l Hydrogen Peroxide 35% 5-0 g/l Hydrogen Peroxide 35%<br />

5 g/l Caustic soda 50% 5 g/l Soda Ash 5-10 g/l NaOH liq 50% 5-0 g/l NaOH liq 50%<br />

1-2 g/l Dirsol EW liq 1-2 g/l Dirsol EW liq 1-2 g/l Dirsol EW liq 1-2 g/l Dirsol EW liq<br />

2-3 g/l Stabilizer SIFA 2-3 g/l Stabilizer SIFA<br />

30 min / room temperature 30 min / room temperature 30 min / 60ºC 30 min / 90ºC<br />

Diresul Indinavy RDT-B liq Diresul Indiblack RDT-2R liq Diresul Indinavy RDT-B liq Diresul Indiblack RDT-2R liq<br />

Original<br />

Enzynatic<br />

A<br />

Dyestuff Xenon lamp Washing Washing Perspiration Perspiration Hypochlorite<br />

ISO EO2 ISO CO3 ISO CO6 / C2S ISO EO4 Alkaine ISO EO4 Acid Bleach ISO NO1<br />

Diresul Indinavy RDT-B liq 4-5 Shade: 3 Shade: 3 4-5 4 2<br />

Cotton: 3-4 Cotton: 3<br />

PA: 2 PA: 2<br />

Diresul Indiblack RDT-2R liq 4-5 Shade: 3-4 Shade: 2-3 5 5 2<br />

Cotton: 3-4 Cotton: 3-4<br />

PA: 2 PA: 2<br />

The Diresul Indinavy RDT-B and Diresul Indiblack RDT-2R are products suitable for the Advance Denim concept.<br />

Advanced Denim combines high performance products and processes with a sound ecological view for a new world of denim effects.<br />

B<br />

C<br />

D


Textile - An Essential,<br />

Rich Heritage<br />

1. What are your views on the current<br />

scenario in the textile industry post<br />

recession?<br />

The economy meltdown started around<br />

<strong>Sept</strong>’ 2008, “In my view, in India recession<br />

was visible only after 26/11 episode the<br />

same year. During the year 2009, about<br />

50% recovered and the balance is doing<br />

so now since March <strong>2010</strong>. By the turn<br />

of <strong>2010</strong> fi nancial year I expect India will<br />

recover fully.<br />

2. With the present focus on sustainability,<br />

how do you propose to meet the<br />

requirements?<br />

About sustainability Raymond has been<br />

very conscious. For example, way behind<br />

in 1992 we installed RO plant post ETP<br />

which was the fi rst time for any Textile<br />

Industry in the country.<br />

We have two captive power plants in<br />

which carbon monoxide norms are much<br />

below the required standard. We will be<br />

shortly installing one more captive power<br />

plant gas based. For the metal content in<br />

the sludge from ETP, which is hazardous,<br />

we have increased furnace temperature<br />

for sludge incineration, certifi ed by the<br />

Pollution Control Board. We do a lot of<br />

water harvesting, too.<br />

3. Given your eminent position in the<br />

industry, what is your emphasis on<br />

innovation?<br />

Raymond enjoys number one position for<br />

the last 4 ½ decades in the Textile Industry<br />

and more specifi cally in the worsted<br />

suiting segment. To maintain number one<br />

position we have to be very effi cient, with<br />

innovation on priority. Innovation is never<br />

the destination; it’s a continuous process.<br />

We at Raymond are never satisfi ed with<br />

our innovation and our quest is always on<br />

for new ones.<br />

As innovations go on continuously we<br />

are very watchful for their success in the<br />

market place. This is one of our key to the<br />

success as Raymond has always lived up to<br />

customers’ expectations.<br />

4. How do you propose to expand your<br />

global and retail business?<br />

Our exports are to the tune of 17 to 18% of<br />

our volume. Our global foot print for our<br />

brand started 20 years ago from Middle<br />

East; opening fi rst shop in Dubai. Today<br />

we have 32 outlets of our own in Gulf,<br />

Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and a recent one in<br />

Kuala Lumpur.<br />

For developing a brand internationally<br />

one needs deep pockets, hence it is a slow<br />

process. Our strategy is to expand the<br />

Mr. Satyendra Kumar Singhal<br />

B.Sc., B.Text.<br />

President – Textiles, M/s. Raymond Ltd.<br />

q&a<br />

In 1994 completed a course from IIM<br />

Ahmedabad – 3 TP on “Condense<br />

Management”.<br />

In 2003 completed a 5 weeks course at London<br />

on Business ADP Acclerated Development<br />

programme.<br />

– Before joining Raymond Group spent 2<br />

and1/2 years with M/s. LD Textiles. Worked<br />

in process house and weaving preparatory<br />

In-charge.<br />

– Working with M/s. Raymond Ltd., since<br />

May 1977. Joined Raymond Group as a<br />

Management Trainee for 5 and 1/2 years in<br />

Designing Dept.<br />

– After that spent 4 years on a new set up<br />

of Plush Weaving and Finishing as Plush<br />

Manager<br />

– 1987 to 1990 - Additional charge of entire<br />

weaving and suiting – assisting the then<br />

Weaving Manager as Dy. Wvg. Manager<br />

– 1990 – Chhindwara Plant as Technical<br />

Manager.<br />

– 1992 December – took over as Works<br />

Director (Chhindwara Plant)<br />

– 2000 <strong>Sept</strong>ember promoted as Executive<br />

Director in charge for all three worsted<br />

plants.<br />

– 2002 <strong>Sept</strong>ember – Executive Director<br />

(Projects)<br />

– 2003 February promoted to Vice President<br />

(Projects)<br />

– 2004 June – Vice President (Textiles)<br />

– 2005 June till date – President Textiles as<br />

business head.<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong> 13


14<br />

q&a<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong><br />

Raymond brand gradually in the Gulf and<br />

the SAARC countries and reach Far East.<br />

Hence, the next attempt is Singapore,<br />

Thailand, Indonesia, Iran and Iraq and also<br />

parts of South America.<br />

5. How do you envisage the growth<br />

of brands and their impact on textile<br />

business?<br />

We have seen phenomenal growth for<br />

Brands in the last 5/7 years, due to change<br />

in retailing format in our country i.e. trend<br />

of malls. The rules of game are changing as<br />

the brands are widening their band width,<br />

mainly ready to wear segment. There are<br />

handful successful Fabric Brands, which<br />

means that the fabric manufacturers should<br />

become extra ordinary cost competitive,<br />

as the profi ts will be shifting towards the<br />

RMG brands.<br />

In this change there is one dilemma<br />

in my mind that how the brands or the<br />

retailer would withstand the high cost of<br />

retailing. As it happened in the West in<br />

the developed economies, the margin for<br />

the brand owners and retailers in the range<br />

of 300 to 400% on the cost of product.<br />

Whereas, in our country the retail margin<br />

is ranging 30% to 40-45% only. The<br />

questions arises as to when the consumer<br />

is getting used to air conditioned shopping<br />

experience, but the margins of even 100%<br />

appear diffi cult in the near future. What<br />

will be its outcome, there is no clear cut<br />

answer? If the Indian consumer will get<br />

accustomed to 100% margin or with the<br />

passage of time these air conditioned malls<br />

will reduce their rentals.<br />

International brands are attracted<br />

towards Indian market with a perception<br />

that the upper middle class population is<br />

growing and a large disposable income is<br />

available.<br />

You may have noticed the Brands<br />

have made a dent with their deep pockets,<br />

but most of them are not able to sustain<br />

the margin levels as in other developed<br />

countries.<br />

6. How do you see the role of dyes and<br />

chemicals manufacturing companies like<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals in future to assist the<br />

textile industry?<br />

In textile as, I have seen in my carrier of<br />

3 ½ decades the choice of consumer has<br />

changed very rapidly in the last decade.<br />

The consumer does not look forward for<br />

fi ber and feel; he looks for the color, the<br />

appearance and the price suiting his pocket.<br />

What I mean is the color and different<br />

fi nishes are more important than the fi ber<br />

(natural or synthetic) he doesn’t care<br />

much. Hence, it is imperative the dyes and<br />

chemical manufacturers work very closely<br />

with fabric manufacturers / processors to<br />

give their innovation and value addition at<br />

their best to the industry.<br />

In case of Raymond, we also expect<br />

this from <strong>Clariant</strong> for a successful and long<br />

term business relationship.<br />

7. What is your message to the textile<br />

industry?<br />

We need to be on our toes for the cost<br />

competitiveness at the manufacturing<br />

stage, one of the ways to try out is multi<br />

skilling of workmen on the manufacturing<br />

shop fl oors.<br />

Innovations, value addition and<br />

sustainability are the key to success.<br />

To accept smaller runs possible yet<br />

being cost competitive.<br />

With the above ingredients the product<br />

should be marketable and fashion driven<br />

and “Be A Complete Man” the Raymond<br />

way.


16<br />

paper<br />

Cartabond ® cross linkers<br />

for improved offset printing and converting<br />

Free particles are not a papermaker’s best<br />

friend<br />

Many problems occurring during<br />

paper making, converting and printing<br />

operations are due to the presence at the<br />

paper surface of free or weakly-bound<br />

particles and fi bers.<br />

As the paper surface is weakened by<br />

moisture, ink fi lm splitting between<br />

blanket and paper can result in the release<br />

of particles and fi bers from the surface,<br />

which then accumulate on the blanket and<br />

printing rolls due to picking, piling and<br />

linting. As a consequence, the printing<br />

quality deteriorates, which usually leads<br />

to loss of highlight dots and/or gradual<br />

lightening in the solid areas.<br />

Cartabond cross linkers for improve wet<br />

surface strength<br />

Cross linkers offer improved wet surface<br />

strength by decreasing the water solubility<br />

and/or aqueous swelling of binders and<br />

fi bers close to the paper surface. They<br />

create additional links between the binder<br />

polymer molecules, the cellulose fi bers and<br />

the fi ller or surface pigment particles.<br />

The Cartabond range of cross linkers<br />

comprises:<br />

Cartabond TSI liquid<br />

Cartabond EPI liquid<br />

Cartabond MZI liquid<br />

Cartabond KZI liquid<br />

Cartabond cross linkers are highly reactive.<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong><br />

They quickly crosslink binders as soon<br />

as water is evaporated from the paper<br />

surface in the drying section of the paper<br />

machine.<br />

Cartabond cross linkers are mainly based<br />

on two chemical types:<br />

Glyoxal-based cross linkers, such as<br />

Cartabond TSI and EPI, which react<br />

mainly with the hydroxyl groups of<br />

water swellable binders such as starch,<br />

CMC, Poly Vinyl Alcohol, etc.<br />

Zirconium-based cross linkers, such as<br />

Cartabond MZI and KZI, which react<br />

with the carboxylate groups in synthetic<br />

latex binders, such as carboxylated<br />

SBR, styreneacrylate etc.<br />

Evaluations of the wet surface strength<br />

improvement with Cartabond cross<br />

linkers<br />

Preferred methods for wet conditions are<br />

the Adams wet rub test or the modifi ed<br />

Paper Taber test developed by <strong>Clariant</strong>.<br />

The wet-rub modifi ed Taber test allows<br />

a easy comparing of the wet surface<br />

strength of treated paper and shows good<br />

correlation with the offset printability<br />

of paper, such as the number of copies<br />

which can be printed before cleaning the<br />

blanket.<br />

Selection of Cartabond cross linkers<br />

Cartabond cross linkers are selected depending on:<br />

their chemical properties…<br />

Product Chemistry Application Benefits Patented Food contact<br />

Technology compliance<br />

Cartabond TSI Multipurpose strength improver. YES BfR 36<br />

Resistant to high temperature and FDA 176.180<br />

High-reactivity Uncoated and coated pH conditions in coating color<br />

Glyoxal-based offset printing paper, (resp. up to 70ºC and 9.5)<br />

Cartabond EPI crosslinker office paper, silicon- Multipurpose surface strength YES BfR 36<br />

release, carbonless paper improver with optimized FDA 176.180<br />

cost performance FDA 176. 170<br />

Cartabond MZI High reactivity Coated offset printing Activated Zirconium technology YES BfR 36<br />

Ammonium paper (LWC, MWC) offers superior cost performance FDA 176.180<br />

Zirconium-based compared to benchmark FDA 176. 170<br />

crosslinker<br />

Cartabond KZI High reactivity Coated offset printing Activated Zirconium technology YES BfR 36<br />

Potassium paper (LWC, MWC) offers superior cost performance FDA 176.180<br />

Zirconium-based compared to benchmark. No ammonia FDA 176. 170<br />

crosslinker smell<br />

…and the type of paper being produced:<br />

Coating Process Binder composition Cartabond TSI/EPI Cartabond MZI/KZI<br />

Size-press Starch<br />

Pigmented, pre-metering Size-press Starch Synthetic-latex<br />

Single coating<br />

Pre-coating<br />

Starch Synthetic latex<br />

CMC Synthetic latex<br />

Top-coating Starch Synthetic latex<br />

CMC Synthetic latex<br />

- preferred choice - good results - moderate results - not recommended


colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong> 17


Additions in Local Range<br />

Drimaren Dark Blue<br />

HF-CD<br />

Properties<br />

Trichromatic element for medium<br />

to dark shades in combination with<br />

Drimaren Yellow HF-CD cdg and<br />

Drimaren Red HF-CD cdg for high<br />

light fastness.<br />

Trichromatic element for medium<br />

and dark shades in combination with<br />

DrimarenYellow HF-CD cdg and<br />

Drimaren Dark Red HF-CD cdg when<br />

chlorine and light fastness are required.<br />

Good compatibility with Drimaren<br />

Yellow CL-2R and Drimaren Red HF-<br />

CD or Drimaren Red CL-5B in exhaust<br />

dyeing process.<br />

Good light fastness in medium shades<br />

and high light fastness in dark shades.<br />

Excellent stability to atmospheric<br />

pollutants (nitrogen oxide, ozone).<br />

Very good diffusion and leveling<br />

properties.<br />

Fully compatible with all elements of<br />

the Drimaren HF and CL ranges.<br />

Benefits<br />

Recommended for exhaust, pad batch<br />

and all continuous dyeing processes.<br />

Meets the highest retailer fastness<br />

demands for light, chlorine, US home<br />

laundering and washing fastness to<br />

detergents containing a bleaching<br />

activator (e.g. M&S C10A).<br />

Very high degree of fi xation.<br />

Excellent washing off properties.<br />

High process reliability.<br />

Shade stable to fl uctuations in<br />

fi xation times (batching, steaming,<br />

thermofi xation).<br />

Very good pad liquor stability.<br />

Solusoft NMW.IN liq c<br />

Non ionic micro silicon emulsion for a soft<br />

handle.<br />

Benefits<br />

Can be applied for cellulosics as well as<br />

synthetics.<br />

Suitable for white goods, no<br />

yellowing.<br />

Improves sewability.<br />

Can be used as an additive in resin<br />

fi nishing to Improve the technological<br />

properties.<br />

Virtually no infl uence on thermigration<br />

of PES goods.<br />

Arkofix ELF.IN liq c<br />

Ultra low formaldehyde cross linker.<br />

Benefits<br />

Helps achieve European Eco Label<br />

Standards of < 50 ppm formaldehyde<br />

levels.<br />

Best resin for highest whiteness level.<br />

Helps keep minimum fabric damage<br />

levels.<br />

Suitable to be used in special resin<br />

processes where higher performance<br />

parameters and lower tear strength loss<br />

are desired.<br />

Dilasoft JWN.CN liq<br />

Hydrophilic softener for a soft natural<br />

handle.<br />

Benefits<br />

Non yellowing softener.<br />

Suited for jet machines as well as<br />

padding.<br />

Treated goods can also be overprinted.<br />

Finds application for towels and<br />

knitwear.<br />

Appretan N96101<br />

Acrylic ester copolymer in aqueous<br />

dispersion for technical textile application.<br />

Benefits<br />

Self cross linking polymer.<br />

Film properties: soft and transparent.<br />

Durable to washing and dry cleaning<br />

and also fast to alkali.<br />

Finds application in the fi nish of glass<br />

fi bers and bonding of fl eeces and non<br />

woven.<br />

new arrivals<br />

Cepreton UC p<br />

Concentrated cationic pastilles.<br />

Soft voluminous handle.<br />

Soluble in cold water.<br />

Produces very soft handle on blends<br />

with synthetics.<br />

Can be directly added into the drum<br />

Application: Garments, Knits<br />

Cepreton UN p<br />

Concentrated non ionic softener pastilles<br />

Benefits<br />

Soft smooth handle.<br />

Suitable for full whites, compatible<br />

with OBA’s.<br />

Imparts antistatic properties on cotton.<br />

No tendency to sublimation during<br />

drying.<br />

Can be combined in resin fi nishing baths.<br />

Cepreton UH p<br />

Concentrated cationic softener in unique<br />

pastille form for cellulosic and synthetic<br />

fi bers.<br />

Benefits<br />

Smooth, soft and bulky handle.<br />

100% concentrated pastilles.<br />

Low foaming suitable for high<br />

shearing m/c.<br />

Application: Synthetics, Knits<br />

Opticid PSD liq.<br />

Maintains the pH of dye bath in the<br />

required safety region<br />

Keeps the pH constant during the<br />

whole dyeing process, thus ensuring an<br />

excellent reproducibility of the dyeing.<br />

Does not impair the effectiveness of<br />

other dyeing assistants<br />

Has no effect on the light fastness of the<br />

dyeing.<br />

Is phosphate-free<br />

Is non-foaming<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong> 19


inside views<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals focus on Melioderm<br />

Rolling out with Road Shows<br />

The Leather Services Business of India’s<br />

leading specialty chemicals producer -<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited rolled<br />

out the Spring / Summer 2011 Leather<br />

Collection across South India. June <strong>2010</strong><br />

was specially for Chennai and Ranipet,<br />

while July <strong>2010</strong> would see the road show<br />

hit Kanpur, Jalandhar and Kolkata followed<br />

by other key cities. It is a perfect platform<br />

to display Melioderm dyes to the leather<br />

manufacturers, which has already begun<br />

receiving a good response!<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> in ITMA Shanghai<br />

ITMA ASIA + CITME <strong>2010</strong> was<br />

organized at Shanghai from June 22-26,<br />

<strong>2010</strong> at New International Expo Centre.<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> had a very good stall and<br />

participated with many affi liate experts on<br />

various streams of processing of textile.<br />

The exhibition also found representation<br />

from executives from India, Indonesia,<br />

Pakistan, Bangladesh and other Asian<br />

countries.<br />

Though the response from delegates /<br />

visitors was slightly less as compared to<br />

Explained Mr. P. Rajasekaran, Head of<br />

Leather Services Business in India, “The<br />

show helped the promotion of new fashion<br />

predictions from <strong>Clariant</strong> for the Spring/<br />

Summer 2011 on shoe uppers. Leather<br />

collections on cow, buff, sheep and goat<br />

leather on the new exotic themes of Country<br />

Cousins, Bohemian Rhapsody, Primeval<br />

Spirit and Latin Lovers were the centre<br />

of attraction. The meet also presented<br />

Melioderm dyes on Cow Nubucks and<br />

full chrome/semi chrome suede garment<br />

the expectations, nevertheless the level of<br />

participation was high.<br />

Various processing related issues were<br />

discussed by the customers and expert<br />

advises and solutions were offered by our<br />

experts.<br />

Representation was better from north<br />

and central India. New products /processes<br />

from <strong>Clariant</strong> were displayed with complete<br />

technical back-up.<br />

There were enough display materials<br />

on our stall from all fi elds of application<br />

leathers. It also brought global colour<br />

trends and other new developments<br />

right to the customers’ doorstep. Buyers<br />

also got fresh updates on the technical<br />

and global environment regulations.<br />

They got a chance to explore the leather<br />

fashion concepts and get a clear picture<br />

of the 2011 spring – summer stock that<br />

they could showcase to their customers.<br />

That the shows were well received is an<br />

understatement! The ‘display and reveal’<br />

concept brought Melioderm - centre stage.<br />

One could safely say top designers will<br />

prefer <strong>Clariant</strong>’s Melioderm dyes to add<br />

value to their end products.”<br />

In the forefront were the technical<br />

aspects of ‘fastness’, ‘No shade variation’<br />

and the ‘Homogeneous’ nature of the<br />

dyes which helped achieve even shades<br />

consistently.<br />

The participants appreciated the fact<br />

that this would keep them ahead of their<br />

competition.<br />

The Autumn/Winter 2011 shades have<br />

already been released now. The fashion<br />

leathers will be displayed at all the leather<br />

centers in India during August <strong>2010</strong>.<br />

like preparatory, dyeing<br />

and dyeing auxiliaries,<br />

denim, printing and<br />

specialty fi nishes.<br />

A set of complete<br />

brochures with a CD<br />

was distributed to the<br />

esteemed delegates who<br />

visited our stall.<br />

India was represented by four delegates<br />

to receive and guide customers from<br />

India.<br />

This exhibition gave an opportunity<br />

to learn about best ways of customer<br />

interaction, problem solving and image<br />

building. The response may not be full as<br />

delegates are waiting for next year’s mega<br />

event of ITMA at Barcelona. The It was<br />

a pleasant surprise that many laboratory<br />

equipment appliances were present with<br />

good show.<br />

20 colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong><br />

20


<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals –<br />

Towards a more sustainable solution<br />

Society of Dyers and <strong>Colour</strong>ist Conference<br />

The Textile Chemicals Business of<br />

India’s leading specialty chemicals<br />

producer - <strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India)<br />

Ltd. participated in the International<br />

Conference on “Evolving Maze in<br />

Coloration” organized by Society of Dyers<br />

and <strong>Colour</strong>ists (SDC). The event was<br />

split in to two stages: one in Mumbai on<br />

June 4, <strong>2010</strong> and another in Coimbatore<br />

from June, 5-6, <strong>2010</strong>. This international<br />

conference conducted technical sessions,<br />

panel Discussion on Sustainability and<br />

Ecology, Coloration of Polyester and<br />

Cellulosics, and retail fashion and design.<br />

Anjani Prasad<br />

Mr. Anjani Prasad, Head of Textile<br />

Chemicals was the chairperson of a<br />

panel discussion on “Sustainability and<br />

Ecology” while Mr. Stefan Schlosser,<br />

Head of Product Group Printing, <strong>Clariant</strong><br />

International, Switzerland presented a<br />

technical paper on “Pigment Printing –<br />

Past, Present and Future”.<br />

Mr. Prasad in his presentation explained<br />

that <strong>Clariant</strong>’s focus is on Consumer<br />

Safety, on Resources and Processes and on<br />

Environment. He elaborated on <strong>Clariant</strong>’s<br />

product safety processes for Textiles,<br />

which also included the declaration of<br />

safe product certifi cations. He explained<br />

the 4E concepts of Ecology (GOTS<br />

approved, Oeko-tex approved, Bluesign<br />

approved); Economy (Less water, Less<br />

time, Less energy); Effi ciency (Right the<br />

First time, Reproducibility, Performance,<br />

Higher build up) and Environment<br />

(Biodegradability, Bio-elimination, Fewer<br />

chemicals used and Less effi cient load). He<br />

emphasized that, “We can employ methods<br />

and processes that can save water, energy<br />

and time – which automatically results in<br />

savings not only for the manufacturer but<br />

also the end customer.<br />

In the Technical session at Mumbai<br />

and Coimbatore, Mr. Stefan Schlosser<br />

elaborated on the “Pigment Printing<br />

– Past, Present, and Future” in which<br />

he touched upon the historical aspects<br />

of pigment printing. This is the oldest<br />

printing techniques known to mankind.<br />

But it was unimportant until the Second<br />

World War because of dull colors, loss of<br />

textile character as a result of hardening<br />

and poor fastness to wear and washing.<br />

Nowadays pigment printing is the main<br />

textile printing techniques because of<br />

universal use even on blended fabrics<br />

and lower application costs compared<br />

to dyestuff printing (no washing, no<br />

steaming).<br />

This was only possible by many<br />

developments in the components of a print<br />

paste:<br />

Thickeners changed from natural<br />

to emulsion thickening and later to<br />

synthetic ones.<br />

Brilliant organic pigments substituted<br />

dull inorganic pigments.<br />

Binding chemicals produced by<br />

emulsion polymerization.<br />

Besides the ever present demand for<br />

more economical products and processes<br />

and the demand from retailers to narrow<br />

the gap between pigment and dyestuff<br />

printing, the main challenge for pigment<br />

printing will be the dramatic increase of<br />

ecological demands.<br />

inside views<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> is addressing these issues<br />

and we have many products in our range<br />

like formaldehyde free binders and crosslinkers<br />

as well as amine free pigment<br />

dispersions that can meet the emerging<br />

needs and demands of an ecologically<br />

sensitive consumer. Our technologically<br />

innovative product range is tailor made to<br />

satisfy even the most demanding product<br />

range, explained Mr. Prasad.<br />

Memento presented by Mr. Vijay Sane, Hon<br />

Treasurer SDC India Mumbai Region to<br />

Mr. Anjani Prasad, Country Head - Textile<br />

Chemical Business<br />

Memento presented by Mr. Madhu<br />

Maheshwari, Hon. Treasurer, SDC India to<br />

Mr. Stefan Schlosser, Head of Product Group<br />

Printing, <strong>Clariant</strong> International, Switzerland<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong> 21


22<br />

gleanings from press<br />

New Global Organic<br />

Textile Standard<br />

(GOTS) Online Data<br />

base lists all Certified<br />

Companies<br />

Nearly 2,800 facilities gain GOTS<br />

certifi cation in 2009, a 40% increase<br />

over 2008<br />

Greenfi eld, Mass. – According to the<br />

online database of companies certifi ed<br />

to the Global Organic Textile Standard<br />

(GOTS) on its web site which was<br />

relaunched recently, approximately 1,500<br />

companies with a total of 2,811 facilities<br />

in 55 countries around the world were<br />

certifi ed to the organic apparel and textile<br />

standard in 2009. That is almost a 40<br />

percent increase over the 1,977 facilities<br />

certifi ed to the standard in 2008. The<br />

GOTS standard was approved in 2006.<br />

The new GOTS web site will take the<br />

guess work out of creating a coordinated<br />

supply chain and make it much easier for<br />

companies around the world to do business<br />

easily and effi ciently. GOTS is the<br />

stringent voluntary global standard for the<br />

entire post-harvest processing (including<br />

spinning, knitting, weaving, dyeing and<br />

manufacturing) of apparel and home textile<br />

made with organic fi ber (such organic<br />

cotton and organic wool), and includes<br />

both environmental and social provisions<br />

for post-farm to retail shelf management.<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong><br />

Textile would become<br />

a $40-bn industry in<br />

5 years<br />

Excerpts of Interview with Sunil<br />

Khandelwal, CFO, Alok Industries<br />

In fact textile sector is going to see<br />

buoyancy - that we have never seen in<br />

the past. Yes, cotton prices have gone<br />

up mainly due to the demand. If you<br />

look at globally, India is the only textile<br />

manufacturing country in the world which<br />

is cotton surplus. And except India, all<br />

other manufacturing countries - like China,<br />

Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka or even<br />

Vietnam - are importing cotton. The only<br />

other country which is supplying cotton<br />

is US, but there are again the farmers are<br />

moving to other crops. Hence the demand<br />

for cotton fabric is going up and as a result<br />

the cotton prices are also going up. Yes,<br />

cotton prices are up by 15% to 20% in the<br />

last couple on months.<br />

Monte Carlo heralds<br />

the Season with a<br />

Soothing, Stylish<br />

Collection<br />

M onte Carlo<br />

Heralds the<br />

Season with a<br />

Soothing, Stylish<br />

Collection Oswal<br />

Woollen Mills, the<br />

fl agship company<br />

of Oswal Empire<br />

and the owner<br />

of Monte Carlo<br />

and Canterbury,<br />

recently unveiled Monte Carlo’s spring /<br />

summer <strong>2010</strong> collection.<br />

Monte Carlo is recognized as a complete<br />

wardrobe brand for the fashion conscious<br />

family. It includes both winter wear<br />

and a range of summer wear. The upper<br />

segment brand presented by Monte Carlo<br />

is Canterbury which has a premium range<br />

of cardigans and pullovers and its price tag<br />

stars from Rs 2000 and goes up to Rs 5,000.<br />

Canterbury has also introduced higher<br />

premium brand formal suits during this<br />

winter season. Jain opines, “Our customer<br />

is from the upper middle and premium<br />

segment, fashion conscious, high-profi le<br />

with quality and image oriented, urban,<br />

semi-urban based.


About wool<br />

Sheep breeders move<br />

from wool to meat<br />

An expert from a sheep breeder’s body<br />

is of the opinion that, sheep breeders<br />

are moving towards raising sheep livestock<br />

to generate income from their meat, rather<br />

than from the wool.<br />

According to, Rod Thirkell-Johnston<br />

from Tasmanian Farmers and Graziers<br />

Association (TFGA), high lamb and<br />

mutton prices have witnessed, a few wool<br />

growers turning their back on the wool<br />

industry.<br />

This he says, could result in wool<br />

becoming a bi-product for sheep farmers,<br />

which has the potential to create a big<br />

impact on the Australian wool sector<br />

as well as the status of the country as a<br />

reputed wool exporter.<br />

As per estimates around 2,500 jobs<br />

have been lost in the shearing shed across<br />

Australia due to the dwindling numbers<br />

of sheep flock. The size of the Australian<br />

sheep flock has fallen from 170 million in<br />

1990 to below 77 million in 2008.<br />

Feedback ?<br />

Send your suggestions/entries to<br />

poonam.badhiye@clariant.com<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited<br />

www.clariant.in<br />

Printed and Published by<br />

Prabhat Trivedi, on behalf of <strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited<br />

Design by Point-n-Pixel<br />

Printed by Multiple Images<br />

gleanings from press<br />

Cotton consumption to outspace production for<br />

the first time in 5 years<br />

India’s cotton consumption is likely to<br />

surpass production in the 2009-10 cotton<br />

season (October-<strong>Sept</strong>ember) fi rst time in<br />

last 5 years due to a decline in productivity.<br />

Cotton Advisory Board (CAB) estimated<br />

total output at 29.5 million bales (1 bale<br />

= 170 kg) against overall consumption of<br />

33.3 min bales. The shortfall is like to be<br />

adjusted through carryover stocks of 7.01<br />

million bales from the previous year.<br />

Despite an 11% rise in acreage, cotton<br />

output is estimated to rise a marginal 1.72%<br />

due to pest attacks, Data released by CAB<br />

showed total area under cotton at 10.33<br />

million hectares this year as compared<br />

to 9.41 million hectares in the previous<br />

year. Against that, total output is forcast to<br />

increase to 29.5 million bales as against 29<br />

million bales in the last season.<br />

Total area could rise further, said<br />

A.B. Joshi, Textile Commissioner. The<br />

benchmark Shankar-6 variety of cotton hit<br />

` 8,352 a quintal on July 29, an increase<br />

of 24.79% from ` 6,693 a quintal a year<br />

ago. Higher area and almost stagnant<br />

output means productivity will fall, says<br />

Joshi. Cotton yield is likely to decline<br />

7.63% this year due to pest attacks. Total<br />

yield is estimaged at 485 kg per hectares<br />

(ha) during the ongoing kharif sowing<br />

season as compared to 524 kg per ha in the<br />

previous season.<br />

Forbes Brands of Gokak Textiles woos<br />

youngsters with Facit innerwear<br />

Shapoorji Pallonji’s (SP) Gokak Textiles<br />

branded apparel venture Forbes Brands<br />

recently announced the launch of its youthcentric<br />

men’s innerwear brand Facit. The<br />

innerwear is launched with the aim of<br />

providing fashion quotient and adding an<br />

‘X’ factor to men’s innerwear collection. It<br />

will be available across 2,000 retail stores<br />

in the country and gradually scaled up to<br />

4,500 in the next one year. It will also be<br />

available across 500 shop-in-shops. The<br />

price ranges between ` 69 and ` 135 for<br />

brief and ` 89 and ` 185 for vests. Forbes<br />

Brands woos youngsters with Facit.<br />

Facit launched six range of innerwear<br />

collection with each offering something<br />

new and exciting to the consumer. Nischal<br />

Puri, ECO Forbes Brands, SP elucidates,<br />

“For the fi rst time in the industry, we have<br />

a range of vests and a range of active<br />

vests. There is a clear sub-brand for each<br />

category.’’<br />

Chief Editor: Prabhat Trivedi<br />

Editorial Co-ordinator: Poonam Badhiye<br />

Consulting Editor: Philips Abraham<br />

Editorial Board: Sanjay Sathe<br />

Pinakin Munshi<br />

Rajinikanth Prasad<br />

Nirmal Punjabi<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2010</strong><br />

23

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