Adventure 222

AdventureMagazine

Camping / tramping issue of Adventure Magazine

N E W Z E A L A N D

ADVENTURE

INTO THE WILD

EXPLORING OUR BACKYARD

SOUTHERN ALPS

TONGARIRO

TARAWERA

STEWART ISLAND

ISSUE 222

OCT/NOV 2020

NZ $10.90 incl. GST


FOR THE ADVENTURE

#222

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Dogs always make you get outdoors

EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER

Steve Dickinson

Mob: 027 577 5014

steve@pacificmedia.co.nz

The next person who tells me that they

have really enjoyed lockdown, and that

COVID has been like a forced holiday, is

going to wish that they hadn’t. We have

seen millions of dollars evaporate and the

adventure industry struggle to cope.

Travel businesses that have been a

backbone of New Zealand tourism have

closed and many folded for good. Many

people have lost their jobs or feel that they

could at any moment. Sure we have to

learn to live with it; really there is little we

can do except follow the rules and keep

our country as safe as we can, but also we

need to recognize that it is stressful, and

for many that stress is bringing them to

breaking point.

You might not be able to make your job

more secure, you might not be able to

travel or have that wedding or keep your

aged parents safe but there is something

you can do to help deal with the stress.

Here is the quick fix, ‘get outdoors’

Open the door: It has been clinically

proven that the simple process of getting

outside, actually outside anywhere, helps

lower stress levels. If you add into that

exercise and New Zealand’s glorious

environment, be that beach, mountains or

bush, it is going to help.

Buy a dog: Apart from the companionship,

the days when you don’t want to go for a

walk there will be a fluffy face to remind you

of the value of it, sunshine or rain.

Rein in your digital life: When you are

outside, leave your phone at home if you

can. On longer trips, if you feel you need to

take it, turn it off and put it at the bottom of

your pack. Everything can wait.

Do one thing at a time: Multi-tasking is a

myth, if you are walking, walk. If you are

talking, talk. If you are writing the next great

New Zeland novel or cleaning the garage

- do that.

Get dirt under your fingernails: Having

your hands in soil has proven to be good

for you, it’s good for your microbiome

(whatever that is) and that in turn has

proven good for your mood. Plant a

tree, pull out some weeds, grow some

vegetables.

Sleep outside: By the pool or in a tent

does not really matter. Could be an all-night

trip or a snooze in the afternoon but the

important part is that it is outside and that

you sleep.

Steve Dickinson - Editor

ART DIRECTOR

Lynne Dickinson

design@pacificmedia.co.nz

SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES

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OTHER PUBLICATIONS (HARDCOPY AND ONLINE)

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PUBLISHERS

NZ Adventure Magazine is published six times a year by:

Pacific Media Ltd, P.O.Box 562

Whangaparaoa, New Zealand

Ph: 0275775014

Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz

adventuremagazine.co.nz

adventurejobs.co.nz | adventuretraveller.co.nz

Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must be accompanied by a stamped

self-addressed envelope. Photographic material should be on slide, although good quality

prints may be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility accepted for submitted

material. All work published may be used on our website. Material in this publication may

not be reproduced without permission. While the publishers have taken all reasonable

precautions and made all reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of material in this

publication, it is a condition of purchase of this magazine that the publisher does not assume

any responsibility or liability for loss or damage which may result from any inaccuracy

or omission in this publication, or from the use of information contained herein and the

publishers make no warranties, expressed or implied, with respect to any of the material

contained herein.

HOMEGROWN TAIAO

TAIAO

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 01


page14

Image by Dylan Foote Image by Mike Dawson Image compliments of Aspiring Guides

Image by Expedition Earth

page 20

page 24

page 56

#222

contents

08//Mt Aspiring

New Zealand's Matterhorn

14//Expedition Earth

Exploring New Zealand

20//Rabbit Pass

A Kiwi's bucket list tramping experience

24//Stewart Island

Documenting the circumnavigation of the Island

32//Mid-winter Tramping

Hot water beach, Te Ariki Bay, Mt Tarawera

40//Planning your summer tramp

With Mountain Safety Council

42//Saving the Mountain Guides

Post-covid

44//Home Grown

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

56//Rising Star

Jess Blewitt

60//Vote the arsehole out

The rise of the political and environmentally aware

outdoor companies

66//Adventure Van Life

Forget the Mercedes, I wanna be a vanlife lady

84//Adventure travel

• Papua New Guinea

• New Caledonia

• Vanuatu

plus

72. gear guides

83. subs

96. active adventure

FOLLOW US ON

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adventuremagazine

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JOIN THE CONVERSATION

#ADVENTUREMAGAZINE

NEW FABRIC TECHNOLOGY

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BEHIND THE COVER

As Steve says in his editorial, "It has been clinically proven that the

simple process of getting outside, actually outside anywhere, helps lower

stress levels." We felt this picture by Joel & Jasmin @theforestbirds,

captured the feeling perfectly.

COCKTAIL ON THE ROCK

Trek, explore, climb, learn, upskill and adventure your way

to new heights this summer with the AC Team.

• Alpine Adventure – 4 days

• Mt Aspiring, Course & Ascent

• Aoraki Mt Cook

• Mt Madeline, Brewster, French, Barth, Mitre Peak

• First Tracks Wanaka Geo Domes Heli Camp

• Remarkables Guided Climbing, Trekking

• Brewster Glacier, Gillespie Pass

• Luxury Backcountry Trek

• 7,10,12 day Mountaineering Instruction Courses

• 3 day Technical Rope Skills Course

This recipe was a similar

template to the Kiwi Birdsong

that was enjoyed so much.

Made with Two Tone release,

it is a gold medal winning NZ

whisk(e)y. Two Tone refers to

the two kinds of casks used to

mature the whisky, European

oak and American white oak. It

is 40% ABV with no colouring

added. The fruity and spicy

notes made this whisky the

perfect companion to the

tangelo liqueur, which is made

by distilling tree ripened local

tangelos and NZ pure spring

water. A smooth, luxurious,

and sumptuous serve.

To make:

2 jigger (60mls)

@thomsonwhisky Two Tone

Release whisky

20mls Te Kiwi Tangelo liqueur

20mls freshly squeezed lemon juice

3 dashes Angostura bitters

Egg white

Reverse shake, by shaking all ingredients except the egg white with

ice, dump out the ice, add in the egg white, shake, and pour into a

#glassfromthehospiceshop, and garnish with a dehydrated lemon

wheel.

Approx 6g carb per serve

Follow Sue on Instagram: @cocktailontherock

To sign up for the weekly newsletter: www.cocktailontherock.co.nz


70,000 followers can't be wrong

JOIN THE CONVERSATION

06//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222

@ adventuremagazine

@ adventuretraveller @ adventurevanlifenz


Mt Aspiring

NewZealand's Matterhorn

By Derek Cheng

Climbing ropeless up a steep snow and ice

face is never enhanced by mental images of

your helpless body falling to its death.

High on the vertiginous slopes of Mt Aspiring,

the only thing keeping me from this fate were

the front points of my crampons and my two

ice axes. I was calm and focused, but could

do nothing to stop these mental flashes of

my flailing body being gobbled up by white

oblivion. The face wasn't steep enough to worry

an accomplished alpinist, but in the absence

of such skill, competence, and general good

looks, the 40 to 50 degree-slope was more

than enough to unsettle me.

08//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222

Sunrise on Mt Aspiring


"Mt Aspiring, New

Zealand's Matterhorn,

is an aesthetic pyramid

of splendor that masks

a malevolent side that

can emerge suddenly

and swallow anyone

trying to scale her

heights."

A hard kick of the crampons. A

strong strike of the ice axe. After

a dozen or so movements, I

paused to gather my composure,

re-focus, before setting out for

another dozen moves.

Why do such images always

flash through my head when

I'm soloing? Does every climber

have to deal with this?

Mt Aspiring, New Zealand's

Matterhorn, is an aesthetic

pyramid of splendor that masks

a malevolent side that can

emerge suddenly and swallow

anyone trying to scale her

heights. At 3027m, her beauty

and grandeur attract many.

Katelyn and I had wanted to

follow in the footsteps of the first

ascent of the North West Ridge,

climbed in 1913 by Samuel

Turner, Harold Hodgkinson, Jack

Murrell and George Robertson.

The group succeeded in a 60-

hour push, despite horrendous

weather and constant bickering.

Turner, on returning, not only

overstated the feat in saying that

it would be "the first climb and

probably the last of Mt Aspiring's

east precipices", but also

showed a lack of orientation;

they were on the northern, not

eastern, slopes.

During that epic battle, they

endured an uncomfortable,

unplanned and unwanted night

in a storm high above the ridge's

most prominent and intimidating

feature: the rock buttress.

10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222


It's a long trek but it's worth the effort

Most who take on the peak known to

Maori as Tititea, meaning Glistening

Peak, take a chopper to Bevan Col and

walk an hour or so to Colin Todd Hut, at

the base of the northwest ridge. But we

instead shouldered heavy packs and

opted for the steep incline of French

Ridge, which offers you branches, tree

roots, and all manner of flora to help you

ascend the track.

The French Ridge Hut is perched

just below the snow line and basks

in evening sunlight. When the alarm

sounded at 2am the following morning,

we were so excited that we were already

up and preparing breakfast.

We strapped on crampons, unleashed

our ice tools and roped up, moving

up a boot track and negotiating the

remains of a small - but disconcerting -

avalanche on our way to a crest called

Quarterdeck. We had a short snack

break, taking in the view to the north

for the first time. Keeping a close eye

on crevasses, we crossed the glacier

and made good time to the spot called

Kangaroo Patch, on the ridge just below

the rock buttress.

-

But then we lost our way. Katelyn's

crampons disagreed with the loose

scree on the ramps leading up to the

buttress, and the unsteady nature of the

climbing made us question if we had

wandered off-route. At one point, we

were reminded of our vulnerability when

I accidentally bumped my helmet from

my head. It somersaulted off the ridge to

the northern slopes, where the Therma

Glacier accepted it without question.

Eventually, we decided to head down

to Colin Todd Hut. That evening, there

were several guides in the hut who

told us that the rock ramp with the

loose gravel was the most common

route, despite frazzling the nerves of

many climbers. We had to leave the

following day, but with a perfect morning

forecast, I decided to push for a quick

summit before walking all the way out to

Raspberry Flats in the Matukituki Valley.

It was pitch black when I downed two

muesli bars and left the hut at 240am.

Weary and with my eyes half closed, I

made my way across steep snow to the

boot-track, as clouds hung snugly to

the ridge. Concentration was a strain,

but I soon found my flow on the way up

to Kangaroo Patch. Conditions were

glorious. Hard, crisp, solid snow. So

good, in fact, that I left the boot-track at

one point and climbed straight up to the

ridge.

I was soon in the same predicament

as yesterday - an exposed position on

steep ramps of loose rock. But with

my crampons removed and a sense

of purpose, I moved confidently, often

preferring steeper, more solid rock to

looser terrain at a friendlier angle. At one

point I put my foot on a small ledge and

the schist rock crumbled as I weighted it,

but I kept my balance and pushed on.

I passed some rock protection wedged

between two boulders - a sign of other

climbers on the same route - pulled onto

a rock step, and was soon on top of the

buttress. The ridgeline narrowed and

became rocky once again. With snow

conditions so good, I stayed low on the

west face. It steepened sharply. And

then steepened some more.

Without realising it, I had traversed

onto the top of the Ramp. The Ramp

is the quickest way up and down the

mountain, but also the most dangerous.

Several people have died - mostly losing

their footing on the descent - after the

afternoon sun had made the Ramp less

stable.

Progress slowed. Focus intensified.

Images of my falling body cascaded

through my mind, no matter what I did

to try and block them out. As I climbed

higher, the vertigo increased, but near

the top the angle relaxed, and I gained

the ridge once again. A rush of relief

flooded my insides.

Nothing makes you feel more alive

than climbing a ridgeline as the dawn

light cloaks the surrounding peaks

in a soft blue. Complete solitude in

the mountains concentrates all the

wonderful things about mountaineering.

Self-sufficiency. Embracing the moment.

That resounding sense of perspective

that comes from being dwarfed by a

cirque of mountains as far as the eye

can see.

Reaching the summit at the same

time as the sun's first rays summons

a unique euphoria. It's as if you're

witnessing the birth of the world -

unspoiled and perfect and infinite.

Mt Aspiring towers hundreds of metres

above undulating, glaciated terrain

and a jagged skyline. I stared in awe

and then swiveled towards the west to

behold a sight that made me sink to my

knees - the magnificent shadow of Mt

Aspiring, a dark triangle commanding

the landscape. It was the kind of sight

that is greater than just the view,

because it awakens a blazing sense of

the sublime that words or photos could

never aptly describe. I remained there,

entranced, in the kind of silence that

only mountains can provide, trying to

bottle this feeling so I could come

back to it later.

Aspiring's shadow grew starker as

the daylight became stronger. It

started to shrink as the sun rose and

I started my descent. I avoided the

Ramp and stuck to the ridgeline,

removing my crampons whenever

there was an absence of snow.

Just the beginning

I made it back to the hut exactly

five hours after leaving it, and on a

high that only a perfect summit can

bring. Katelyn and I had a relaxing

breakfast and then trudged back over

the glacier to the Quarterdeck, and

down to French Ridge Hut. Every so

often, we heard tonnes of snow and

ice collapsing from the Breakaway,

a steep and broken part of the

glacier and the preferred approach

to Mt Aspiring before it became too

unstable.

It was almost 830pm before we made

it to the carpark. The final, flat stretch

of valley floor was a benign end to a

weary day of almost 40km, including

about 1800m of vertical gain and

nearly 3000m in vertical drop. I could

not keep a conversation for the

final hour, my face glazing over in a

zombie-state.

But I was smiling on the inside,

lit up by the fresh memory of the

dawn light brushing the summit, her

gentle slopes inhaling the warmth,

her striking shadow stretching out

towards the horizon.

dirtbagdispatches: https://www.

instagram.com/dirtbagdispatches

How to:

The easiest way up Mt Aspiring is the

North West ridge from Colin Todd Hut.

Either take a helicopter to Bevan Col

and walk across the Bonar Glacier to the

hut, or hike in from the carpark (one to

two days either via French Ridge, or the

more direct approach via Bevan Col).

There are variations of the ridge that can

be climbed. The Ramp is the quickest

route, though bergshrunds can make it

impassable, and even if conditions are

good, the ramp bakes in the afternoon

sun and has been the scene of many

fatalities after climbers had lost their

footing on the descent.

Guided parties mainly opt to climb

slopes to Kangaroo Patch, and then

gain and climb a rock buttress on the

ridge. Note that the Mt Aspiring Region

guidebook says that the buttress can

be bypassed on the north side on easy

snow and rock terrain. This is possible,

but guided parties usually gain the

buttress via rock ramps on the northern

side that turn towards the south just as

the rock gets steeper, and then climb

the buttress proper. This is considered

an easier route and can be easily

downclimbed or rappelled.

After the buttress, stick to the ridge,

occasionally skirting to the northern

or southern side as common sense

dictates, as it gently climbs to the

summit. The ridge is not technical

climbing, but can be very exposed.

A guided expedition usually involves a

helicopter ride in to Bevan Col. Costs for

one person are around $3650 for one

person, or $2530 each for two people.

The North West route can be climbed all

year round, but the best time of year to

do it is November to January.

--

https://dirtbagdispatches.com

https://www.facebook.com/

12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 13


Expedition Earth

Exploring NewZealand

By Bridget Thackwray

When Kiwi's Bridget Thackwray and

Topher Richwhite found themselves landlocked

in New Zealand with their trusted

Jeep left at Moscow Airport, they take to

exploring their own backyard.

Having spent the majority of our

relationship on the road, the idea of

being locked down in New Zealand was

quite foreign and daunting to us. The

one thing we’ve always thought that

could jeopardize our relationship is the

prospect of having our freedom to travel

crippled. It’s now been five months since

we left our Jeep in Moscow Airport and

our time in New Zealand has been far

from what we had feared.

Above: Kiwis, Bridget Thackwray and Topher Richwhite start their exploration of New Zealand in the far north.

14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222


Chasing waterfalls

The Nevis Road offers spectacular scenery.

With no idea of when we’d be able to return to Moscow to

continue Leg 3 (from Russia to New Zealand), we decided

we’d get stuck in and make the most of the southern

hemisphere winter!

We contacted Jeep New Zealand who kindly supplied

us with a JL Wrangler which we subsequently named

‘Heaphy’. Charles Heaphy was not only a well-known

explorer but a painter who would go onto promoting New

Zealand’s natural beauty to the rest of the British Empire.

All of a sudden, we were back on the road and with our

new four wheeled companion, began an impromptu New

Zealand journey we called the ‘Intermission Expedition’.

We started in the far north on Rawawa Beach before

weaving our way down country. Because of the weather

at the time, it wasn’t long before we found ourselves in the

familiar backcountry of the Southern Alps.

When planning our routes during Expedition Earth, we

are always looking for landscapes and environments that

challenge ourselves and the vehicle. The Southern Alps

has some of the most stunning 4x4 terrain on the planet.

Whether you’re submerging yourself in the Rees Valley

or rock crawling in the high-country stations, it’s a great

place to master off-road driving.

Before starting Expedition Earth, Topher and I believed

that New Zealand was deprived of any exciting and exotic

wildlife. But from so far driving 5 continents and visiting

some of the world’s most concentrated natural habitats,

including the Galapagos Islands, we have grown a much

bigger appreciation of New Zealand’s wildlife. On our

mini adventures around the South Island we were so

happy to be reconnected with the cheeky alpine Keas and

inquisitive seals of Kaikoura and Catlins. The experience

one can have with these wild animals is as good as it gets

on a global level.

"The Southern Alps has some of the

most stunning 4x4 terrain on the

planet. Whether you’re submerging

yourself in the Rees Valley or

rock crawling in the high-country

stations, it’s a great place to master

off-road driving."

16//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 17


Left: Heliskiing with Over the Top Helicoptors - image bySean Beale / Above right: crossing the Rees River / Bottom right: Skiing at Treble Cone

Main photo: Ski touring at the Remarkables

Since it was the snow season, we worked with HEAD Ski

on a campaign to trial their new seasons ski hardware and

sportswear. Because of all the driving to date, our bodies

were far from being in athletic condition. So apart from the

challenge of learning the art of ski photography, the physical

challenges of touring were immense. On one of our first

missions, on the back side of the Remarkables, we bumped

into Pete Oswald who with his partner Sophie are running

‘Ski for Trees’, a charity that plants a tree for every meter he

climbs while skinning. Pete gave us some good advice on the

best spots to climb and ski in the area.

Working with some of the local businesses gave us the

incredible opportunity to go heliskiing with Over the Top

Helicopters who took us for a few runs out the back of Mt

Aurum. Topher’s always been inspired by the Art of Flight

movie and was keen to emulate some of the chopper footage

which made it so epic. Without a monumental budget from

Red Bull, he settled for flying his drone from the front seat

while the Squirrel flew acrobatically between snowcapped

peaks. It was a great finale to our time in the snow!

As we begin our drive north, we are excited to reexplore parts

of our country that we have in the past taken for granted.

It is in our DNA as a country to look abroad, but from our

experience of exploring supposed greener pastures, we

can confidently say we have it so damn good here in New

Zealand!

JEEP WRANGLER RUBICON

The iconic Jeep Wrangler Rubicon is true to

its heritage combining capable features with

updated design and materials to deliver luxury and

refinement while proudly maintaining the iconic

Jeep Wrangler look. Embracing the ‘Go Anywhere,

Do Anything’ attitude, this vehicle is positioned

as an outstanding off roader, who’s capabilities

mean it can tackle the toughest of terrains when

required.

‘Heaphy’ has been fitted with over ten of the most

capable genuine Mopar accessories available

for this model. This ensures ‘Heaphy’ has what it

needs to take on the tough New Zealand terrains

during the winter months with ease.

With over 70 safety features available on the

vehicle and fitted with the legendary 3.6-litre

Pentastar V6 Petrol Engine, ZF 8-Speed

Automatic Transmission and Selec-Trac® 4x4

system, the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon continues the

legacy of the original Willys MB and marking the

next stage in the history of the world’s first 4x4.

www.jeep.co.nz

18//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 19


Rabbit Pass

AKiwi’s Bucket List Tramping Experience

Story and images compliments of Aspiring Guides

If you’ve lived in New Zealand for any length of time,

chances are you’ve ticked off a few backcountry

adventures. After all, about a third of the country’s land

mass is protected land, and at least 10% is national park,

so you don’t have to go far to find a wild and scenic patch

of earth to explore.

But once you’ve mastered your backyard routes and you

need to step up the challenge, what’s next? It’s time to get

off the beaten track and away from the crowds of the Great

Walks, and one of the most prized routes for adventurous

trekkers is Rabbit Pass, located in a remote area of Mt

Aspiring National Park.

The Rabbit Pass smile

20//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 21


ORIGINAL

Clockwise from top left: Approaching Waterfall Face which leads to Rabbit Pass / Heading over Rabbit Pass is a big day, this pic

shows the walk before starting the descent into the East Matukituki Valley / A well earnt picnic lunch after heading up Waterfall face,

onto Rabbit Pass / Exploring the Upper Wilkin Valley - one of the most stunning areas we go hiking in

Longtime mountain guiding outfit Aspiring

Guides, based in Wanaka, knows the

route well, having led capable clients over

the pass for more than two decades. A

rigorous screening process during the

booking phase ensures that clients have

the proper experience, fitness, and footing

to make the journey safely. It’s not a route

for trampers new to the backcountry, but

its appeal draws queries from all levels of

hikers.

“It's a remote part of Aspiring National

Park and you really have the sense of

getting away from the crowds and into

true wilderness,” says trekking guide

Jessica Marriott. “It’s a challenging trip,

not to mention the scenery is absolutely

stunning.”

So it’s basically everything that a keen Kiwi

tramper is looking for - but those in the

know realise that “challenging” doesn’t just

mean you need endurance.

“The trip involves more than just hiking,”

Jessica notes, “It requires route finding,

a good head for heights, river crossing

and scrambling skills. People need to be

physically fit and have the knowledge to

complete it safely.”

The crux is, of course, the pass itself,

which tops out at 1430m. An improbable

scramble up Waterfall Face is a feat in

itself. The face is comprised of snowgrass,

small footholds and handholds, and

significant exposure to the valley far below.

The effort is rewarded with a unique view

of the valley below.

The descent provides a new set of

challenges, as you follow a steep rock

gully into the next valley over and enter

a new landscape of native herb gardens.

While the most technical aspect of the trip

may be behind you, the journey’s physical

challenges carry on. Once past Bledisloe

Gorge, the climbing begins again, from

open river flats through ancient forest and

up to the alpine with views across to Mt

Aspiring herself, before descending again

and winding through the forest back to

river flats.

Aspiring Guides take four days to

complete the traverse, starting with a

flight into Jumboland and hike to Top

Forks Hut. They run a longer trip over

eight days which includes Gillespie Pass

first. The eight day option is the ultimate

backcountry experience, often referred to

as “New Zealand’s hardest guided hike.”

This option has no helicopters, you simply

take what you can carry on your back and

start walking!

In this sense, having a guide not only

provides an increased level of confidence

and comfort, it also eases the pressure

of tricky decision making and logistics.

No need to worry about having a vehicle

at each end of the route. Having weather

updates and contingency plans is the

guide’s responsibility, as organising great

backcountry meals. The guides cannot,

however, keep your boots dry -- wet boots

from side streams and river crossings is

just part of the NZ wilderness package.

Guiding rugged tracks is Aspiring Guides’

specialty, appealing to NZ’ers and visitors

alike with three to eight day itineraries that

offer authentic backcountry experiences in

unique locations.

For Jessica and many guides, the reward

isn’t just being in new landscapes each

day, but the satisfaction of taking people

into places where they might never have

gone without a guide. For the Kiwi tramper

who’s feeling restless on their usual trails

and ready to push their limits, the Southern

Alps, with assistance and knowledge

from local guides, might be just the right

challenge.

OUT-OF-THE-BOX

HIKER

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Documenting the cirumnavigation of

Stewart Island

By Mike Dawsom

It’s big, really big. The wind is beating us

down, 40kts of bitterly cold Southerly right

in the face. Massive rollers moving in from

the South-West smashing our laden boats

around, before crashing into the West

Coast bluffs and refracting back creating

a turmoiled mess of water. The Southern

Ocean was alive, and we were in our

element, running the gauntlet trying to pass

10 km of relentless exposed coastline as

we approached the South Cape and safe

harbour, between two storm systems – a

must make move to get South.

24//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 25


Feeling insignificant in this wild place as we arrive into Doughboy Bay after a long and physical 65km day.

Clockwise from Top left 1. Camped out in ‘Easy Harbour’ waiting out some big storms before our attempt on the Southern

Cape of Stewart Island. 2. Fresh fish, staple diet on Stewart Island. 3. Yankee Hut at the mouth of the Yankee River, a place

we were stuck for 2 days waiting for the wild westerly to subside. 4. The salt water was a bit different for the whitewater

paddlers ripping their hands to shreds. 5. Taking in the wildlife, Lords River - Stewart Island.

8 Days earlier the ferry docked in Oban, the capital

– Or really only town on the island. Adventure was

waiting & it was time to go. The Half-Moon Bay

beach, in the centre of town, became a sprawling

mess of equipment, Radix food and kayak kit as the

team readied itself to embark on a 12-day journey

to attempt a circumnavigation of Stewart Island.

Barely 12 hrs later, as the sun began to peak over

the horizon from the East, 4 kayaks launched and

headed West. We departed unsure of when we

would be back.

Heading West along the edge of Foveaux Strait

with Bluff hill silhouetted in the dawn sun in the

distance. Our progress was fast, and within minutes

all signs of civilisation were left behind, and we were

off. Rounding out of the bay the ocean began to

play ball, the currents of the Foveaux Strait quickly

dragging us out towards the North Cape and onto

the West Coast. But it was daunting, with a huge

amount of kayaking experience all on rivers we

weren’t sure what we would find out here – in the

ocean.

As the days progressed is became obvious our

biggest challenge was time. The roaring Westerly

had picked up and our progress was slowed

almost to a standstill. We hoped for great weather

but planned for the worst. It was mid-winter after

all. Day 1, 2, 3 & 4 saw slow progress along the

Northern Coast, constantly pushed back by the

gusting Westerlies. Eventually seeking shelter at the

aptly named Christmas Village Hut to wait out the

storm, recalculate our timeframe and continuously

count our food. And waiting was easy on Stewart

Island, the endless hunters and DOC huts littered

throughout the conservation area made for a quick

respite from the wintery weather throughout the

adventure.

Finally, the waves and wind subsided, and we went

for it – Rounding the North West Cape and heading

South, a massive day as we passed by beautiful

remote Stewart Island. Pre-made Radix meals

safely tucked into our lifejackets as we pushed

ahead to the DOC hut in Doughboy Bay – A safe

harbour for the night. This Coastline is relentless. It’s

rugged and wild. Constantly bashed by the roaring

40’s combined with giant waves reaching their first

landmass since being drummed up in Antarctica.

26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 27


Landing on the majestic beach in Doughboy

Bay, the Southern end of the Nor-Western

Track, our last sign of life before heading

around the Southern coast of Stewart Island.

28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 29


PHIL’S SEA KAYAK

Stewart Island

Locked and loaded, Pat De Jong setting a quick pace in a loaded kayak

fully supplied with 10 days worth of food and equipment.

There’s a reason it’s an isolated in inhospitable place. Leaving

Doughboy Bay, we entered the most exposed section of the

circumnavigation – The 10km of coastline before Easy Harbour.

Rocky bluffs meant there was no safe place to head back to shore

until a large channel gifting access to the shelter of Kundy Island.

Here we found out what it is like to battle the Southern Ocean

swells. The wind picked up and the swell began to build, soon

a few kilometres out to see we found ourselves taking on huge

breaking swells, combined with refraction swells bouncing off the

bluffs. It was an intense few hours drawing on all our white-water

experience.

From here it was the waiting game for the swell to subside

before making an attempt on the Southern Cape. 1 day later the

conditions looked good – Variable 5kts with 2.6 SW Swell. We

went for it and 7 hrs later we arrived into shelter and beauty of

Port Pegasus, in the shadow of the giant granite domes of Gog

& Magog. We rested up after what was a fairly massive day

paddling past the most epic coastal landscape imaginable.

From there it was plain sailing – Heading North, the end in

sight – Pegasus to Lords River – Lords River to Oban. 2 big but

achievable days saw our fatigued and broken bodies steer our

boats to a rest on the beach we’d set off from 12 days prior. The

boats up to their final resting spot – We weren’t the first and we

won’t be the last, but we’d got it done.

30//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222

Capturing the expedition – This trip was shot

on the Canon R EOS with 70-200 f2.8 RF 24-105

f2.8 RF Lens.

It’s a challenge balancing capturing the expedition

to tell the story of being out there without taking

away from the authentic experience of just

enjoying it. Alone. Isolated. In nature – Exploring

somewhere new, untouched and beautiful. For

me the question is always – What camera set-up

to add to the monstrosity of equipment packed

into the boats? Ultimately, in the wild world of

adventure photography less is usually more. A

set up that gets the shot but doesn’t slow the

team down, that’s accessible to shoot and quick

to get shooting ensures the ability to capture the

moment.

Shooting from a kayak is a dangerous game.

There’s nothing quite as daunting as taking off the

spray deck of your kayak far out in the Southern

Ocean. Sacrificing the only thing stopping the icy

cold sea water from rushing in, sinking my bright

little kayaking just to get the shot – To access my

camera, balanced precariously between my legs.

And there were plenty of shots missed. Magical

moments on the water where I couldn’t dare get

my camera out, let alone take a hand off the

paddle. Scary moments where the sole focus

was survival – But that’s all part of the game, of

sharing the story.

Explore the pristine clear

waters of Stewart Island

with it’s amazing marine

life, bays and sandy

beaches.

Experience paddling paradise!

Stroll golden sandy beaches and take in the rich cultural history.

Full/half day/2 1/2 hour and sunset excursions available.

Registered owner/guide; passional sea kayaker.

Kayak rental available (some conditions apply).

PHIL@ SEAKAYAKSTEWARTISLAND.NZ | 027 4442323

WWW.SEAKAYAKSTEWARTISLAND.NZ


Mid-winter Tramping

Hot Water Beach Te Ariki Bay, Mt Tarawera

By Erik Skilling

To be honest I was keen to get out of the city after all

those weeks stuck in Covid19 lockdown. A weekend

away in the bush sounded appealing.

Hot pools. If you are going to tramp this time of year with

its mud, short days, and cold nights pick somewhere

that allows you to camp by a hot pool. Preferably also

convince a close friend with benefits like a love of

camping, starry nights, and my company. In the middle of

winter. Not easy.

On an earlier pre-Covid mountain-biking trip to Rotorua,

apart from being too early to come across Michael

Clarke, we had heard of a 5-hour track to Hot-Water

beach at Te Rata Bay on Lake Tarawera. The thought of

soaking in a hot pool at this time of year was just enough

to persuade a friend to join me. The weather forecast at

the time was a bit dodgy but as often happens when you

commit, the trip would turn out to be the perfect choice

with some unique and memorable experiences.

True to form it felt good to be back in lush New Zealand

bush again. The undulating track wound its way through

thick native bush, stands of manuka and gullies full of

tree-fern standing several metres high. There are enough

hills to get the heart rate going with the reward of several

stunning views of the lake. There are two options for

a lunch stop, both with a table and toilet nearby. We

chose to stop next to the crystal-clear Wairua stream,

about two-thirds of the way to Te Rata Bay. Despite DOC

advice not to drink the water because of the thermal

activity nearby, we helped ourselves with no adverse

effects. And no wet feet - all the streams were bridged.

Te Rata Bay is one of those places that you just want to

keep to yourself. When you can set up tent a few meters

from the lake edge, on ground naturally heated, with

views across a steaming lake to the mighty Mt Tarawera

itself, this is 6-star camping. Don’t think too much about

why that that ground is so warm. Just enjoy the perk.

We got to share the bay with Jason the local caretaker

and one other couple who camped out of view. So much

for needing to book. The whine of an outboard motor

momentarily invaded the stillness (I say more waka, less

motor) as we set up camp, but mid-winter is the perfect

time to enjoy this place.

Overlooking Te Ariki Bay

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The much-hyped long soak in the hot-pool

met all the expectations of my gracious fellow

tramper – although sipping port helped a bit.

Okay, a lot. Asking her to join in for the quick

dip in the lake was a quick sprint too far, but it

was a very contented and hot companion that

emerged from the pool in time to settle down

for dinner.

Jason had a cast-iron pot of wallaby stew

gently cooking away in the near 90C hotwater

stream metres away from our tent.

Excellent use of an Australian pest that had

been trapped earlier. One of the many perks

of being the caretaker here. The two of us

settled down to the decadence of the new Go-

Native butter chicken and vegetable curry and

enjoyed the vista as the sun set. Then, to add

to the mood the clouds cleared, and we were

able to enjoy the milky way. Cosy.

Next morning, I woke from possibly the best

night’s sleep I have ever enjoyed in a tent

thanks mostly to the underfloor heating. The

intention had been to wake-up slightly before

dawn with the hope of seeing Matariki, but

the sky was bright by the time I woke up

and unzipped the tent flap. The view was

stunning. An elegant looking black swan was

tracking its way across the lake in front of us,

and to one side, a cloud of steam hung in the

air. Otherwise just a glassy-calm lake with a

distant Mt Tarawera silhouetted against the

rising sun.

Eventually Jason emerged from his catamaran

which was beached on the lake edge and

wandered down to check on his wallaby

stew. Next time I will remember to bring some

stewing steak and a few veges and stay an

extra day to really enjoy the place.

We sipped freshly brewed hot coffee and

gazed out at the lake and across to Mt

Tarawera which was now shrouded in dark

misty cloud. The lake itself was still glassy

calm, the swan having moved further down

the bay. We imagined the scene nearly 150

years ago as tourists described as “moneyed

foreigners” were rowed across the bay in

front of us to the Kaiwaka river at the end

of the bay and onto the Pink and White

Terraces. The tourists got to enjoy a meal of

potatoes and Koura (freshwater crayfish) and

a swim at the terraces before being rowed

back, all for the princely sum of Stg2, which

provided a decent income for the local iwi

back in 1880.

Sometime later the whine of the water-taxi

broke the tranquillity which also seemed

to be the signal for the breeze to pick up.

Before long white caps were appearing on

the lake. Time to get organised and head

home. It was quite late by the time we left

but I think we can be forgiven – and no issue

anyway with just 5 to 6 leisurely hours of

tramping ahead.

We arrived back at the car park (which is

secured at night) just as low-lying wintery

sun was beginning to set. The legs ached

just enough to make you feel like you had

had a decent workout. We confirmed that

tramping can be just as enjoyable at this

time of year as they can be in the summer

months. The hot-water beach tramp had

so much to offer – thermal hot pool to

enjoy at the end of the day, superb native

bush and spectacular vistas. The track is

clearly signposted and well maintained with

beautiful lakeside camping and spotlessly

clean amenities, which all made for a

memorable weekend trip away.

This is a remarkable region, rich in

New Zealand history. Our thanks to the

Tuhourangi people who have made it so

easy for us to enjoy.


Author, Erik Skilling, enjoying a mid-winter's hike and camp

SIDE NOTE:

This is the sort of trip you want to keep to yourself,

but Tarawera has justifiably been a “tourist magnet”

since late 1870 when the entrepreneurial chief Aporo

Te Wharekaniwha built the 25-bed Cascade Hotel and

charged international tourists Stg2 each to be taken to

view the world famous Pink and White Terraces.

Violence, both man-made and natural have taken a

big toll on the local inhabitants over the last few 100

years.

Many years ago a local chief Umukari was killed and

decapitated by the Apumoana iwi. His head was found

in a cave on the small peninsula facing the Landing,

an area now dotted with baches and moorings

about 20 minutes into the tramp. The cave itself was

submerged when lake-waters rose after the Tarawera

eruption.

Umukari’s son Wahiao and Tutanekai - of Tutanekai

and Hinemoa fame, led a war-party to Moura Pa

sited on the peninsula just across the water from the

campsite at Hot Water Beach. The attackers entered

the Pa via the “back-door”– attaching ropes to an

overhanging tree and scaling the cliffs. All of the

Apumoana iwi were either killed or taken prisoner.

In June 1886 Mt Tarawera exploded and the ensuing

eruption took the lives of 107 people and buried the

Pink and White Terraces. Twenty-nine of those who

perished were living at Te Rapa Bay. Many of the local

iwi were forced to leave the area with the associated

collapse of the tourist industry that had been providing

them with an estimated Stg6,000 income annually.

Today Tuhourangi have returned, and their

entrepreneurial flair revived. We certainly appreciated

the effort put in to keep the track maintained and the

bay and campsite so pristine.

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posure

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Red Bull Illume Image Quest Photographer: Jay French

Athletes: Billy Meaclem & Sam Minnell

Location: Canterbury, New Zealand


Safely plan your summer tramp

By New Zealand Mountain Safety Council

The sun is shining; the days are getting

warmer and longer; summer is the time for

the outdoors. It’s a Kiwi’s rite of passage

to get amongst the nature that surrounds

us all, however, it can be just that

carefree summer vibe that gets outdoor

enthusiasts into trouble. Whether it be

a day bush walk or a multi-day tramp,

being prepared this summer could be the

biggest factor that saves a life. Mountain

Safety Council (MSC) Chief Executive

Mike Daisley hopes all Kiwis who plan

to make the most of the outdoors this

season will take the time to carefully plan

and prepare for each excursion.

Each summer, about one million Kiwis

head outdoors for a bushwalk or an

overnight tramp. However, a concerning

number of them are being rescued each

year due to being unprepared.

importance of thorough planning, then

we can reduce the number of incidents,”

Daisley says.

To be prepared is quite simple, he says.

“It’s basic things like researching the

area you are going into, it’s about

being prepared for possible changes in

weather conditions, and to always have

warm clothing, a waterproof jacket and

emergency shelter in your backpack

regardless of the forecast.

of these issues go hand in hand with

trampers not being prepared for the

conditions, not having essential gear such

as warm clothing, a waterproof jacket or

even a torch.

Being summer, many Kiwis don’t consider

the possibility of the weather changing

or needing warm clothing. Annual figures

show that being underprepared occurs

all year round, however, it’s very much

happening in summer as well, he says.

Other safety tips Daisley suggests

considering is the abilities of everyone in

your group based on the slowest member

and to allow extra breaks, get out on the

track early and don’t waste valuable time,

and sticking to schedule is as important

as stopping regularly to check your

location and to re-group.

“Getting into trouble in the outdoors has

the potential to really ruin your summer

holiday, but it can be prevented,” Daisley

says.

One in four New Zealand adults go

tramping every year. However, the

concern is that more than 300 of them are

rescued annually. Many of these rescues

are due to trampers being unprepared for

the weather, conditions or difficulty of the

track, according to MSC research.

“It’s a concerning figure because the

majority are preventable, highlighting the

“Safety is the outcome of good planning

and good decision making,” he says.

A common theme identified by MSC is

that many day trampers only prepare for

the day walk they’re about to embark on,

rather than thinking ahead, and asking

themselves ‘what if’ when they’re packing

for the trip, he says.

The most common reasons for day

tramper rescues are navigation errors

and inexperience, and the walk taking

longer than expected to complete. Many

The NZ Mountain Safety Council's

website is an excellent resource for online

free resources to support planning for

any outdoor adventure. You can learn to

prepare for your chosen activity, learn

skills such as navigation and watch videos

on popular tracks and how to explore

them safety. No time like the present to

start your upskilling now and make for the

best possible summer adventure.

Sourced from The New Zealand Mountain

Safety Council (MSC) – A Walk in the

Park - 2018

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your cool.

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“I found that getting outdoors was good for me, so I wanted

to share that kaupapa (mission) with other people”.

for attendees who are predominantly citydwelling

young professionals, then using

Facebook to appeal to people.

Bruce, who with no prior qualifications in

the outdoors, become a NZOIA qualified

Bush Leader, Mountain Bike Leader,

NZSurf Paddle Board instructor and even a

heavy-truck and passenger service driver,

all in one year.

which Bruce and other operators have

accessed, but most of these have now

finished and “when that happens you

realise you are quite alone”.

Having to buck the trend of ‘men asking

for help’, Bruce has recently asked for

assistance from his clients and staff to get

through Covid-19, which he says was not

easy to admit to needing

By Robert Bruce

In an ironic and cruel twist of fate,

many mountain guides and adventure

operators in New Zealand are now

the ones in need of saving. Today's

hazard for outdoors experts is not just

falling ice or rocks, rather the invisible

economic impacts of Covid-19 keeping

customers away and drying up income.

Adventure Magazine speaks to Robert

Bruce, managing director and head

guide of Got To Get Out, about the huge

effect of ‘lock down’ on his socially good

guiding business. Bruce shares how his

community has “helped the mountain

guide survive”, and he hopes this

experience can help other operators to

survive Covid19 too.

Saving the Mountain guides

42//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222

It’s well documented that Kiwi men are

often reluctant to ask for help. Mountain

guides in particular are often trained to rely

on their practical skills and resilience to

‘get through’ tough situations. For most, the

thought of asking clients or staff for help is

simply not an option.

In 2020, Covid-19 is causing a huge storm

for many guiding businesses; with borders

shut, limits on trip sizes, and enforced

social distancing, it has bcome a battle

for survival for many. The livelihoods of

mountain guides is of course bringing

people close together.

One outdoor professional affected by

the sudden downturn is kiwi social

entrepreneur Robert Bruce. 36 year

old Bruce is founder and head guide of

adventure group Got To Get Out, which

is a bold new type of adventure guiding

company. Got To Get Out was founded

by Bruce in 2015 to “get the communities

of New Zealand outdoors, healthy, into

nature and connected”. His enterprise has

rapidly grown into a national organisation

with a huge online following and numerous

staff and volunteers. Bruce’s group

has arranged hundreds of group hikes,

mountain bike rides, paddle boarding,

camping and ski trips that are designed

to create income to fund free activities for

those less fortunate. The social enterprise

has featured in awards events like ‘best

community contribution’ at the Aucklad

Westpac Busness Awards, and Bruce

personally is a New Zealander of the Year

semi finalist.

“The idea of Got To Get Out came to me

during my first trip to Nepal, trekking to

Mt Everest Base Camp” says Bruce. “I

had left the corporate world and decided

I wanted to apply my skills of marketing,

events, and social media for a far more

socially-good cause, to try and improve the

bad mental and physical health statistics of

New Zealand. I found that getting outdoors

was good for me, so I wanted to share that

kaupapa (mission) with other people”.

The premise of Got To Get Out is to do

the heavy-lifting of adventure planning for

attendees, by arranging the routes, maps,

transport, guiding and even gear rental

“We are really good at making safe

enjoyable outdoor trips that are accessible

for people regardless of skill level. We try

to make it easy for busy people to find our

trips on social media, and just click “going”.

It’s about removing the barrier to entry for

people joining a group guided trip”.

Each year since Bruce founded Got To Get

Out in Nepal the has returned with growing

groups of New Zealanders, each eager to

follow the footsteps of mountaineers like

Edmund Hillary, Rob Hall and other Kiwi

pioneers to see the tallest mountains on

earth. In December 2019 Bruce hosted

his largest group yet, with thirty mostlykiwis

trekking to Mt Everest Base Camp.

He had his leadership tested managing

an emergency evacuation of four trekkers

with altitude sickness, from around 5000m

above sea level.

“Despite the hundreds of adventures I’ve

guided or arranged, including the situation

in Nepal this year, you just can’t plan for

something like Covid-19” says Bruce.

“We’ve seen our income dry up overnight,

but the overhead bills remain. We’ve had

our ability to travel and get close to people

severely restricted, which is exactly what

we do. It’s an extremely hard time to be in

the guiding business right now”.

There have been some support

mechanisms like wage subsidy schemes

After the second lockdown cancelling his

events, and with no end in sight, Bruce

asked his followers and staff online to

donate to keep his social enterprise afloat.

Bruce titled the email and social media

call-out “help us to survive covid-19”, and

he has been amazed at the outpouring of

support via his now-closed Givealittle page.

In just two weeks Bruce raised over $6,000

from nearly two hundred donors to help

cover his most pressing business costs,

which he says will help keep Got To Get

Out afloat and helping the community

for a little while at least. The money is

appreciated but it was messages of support

that were most heart-warming.

“Hundreds of people messaged us

alongside their donations, telling us how

important our mahi (work) is to them, and

to not give up. It really touched me and was

a great motivation”.

Bruce is extremely grateful to each person

who donated to him, and recommends to

other guides or outdoors companies feeling

the effects of Covid-19, to reach out to their

customers and even staff for help.

“Like me you may be touched by the

love and support that comes from your

community to keep your business or at

least morale afloat a wee bit longer. Give

it a go”.

BOOK NOW

WILDWIRE.CO.NZ


HOMEGROWN

TONGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING

MORE THAN ICONIC

TONGARIRO

ALPINE

CROSSING

By Craig (Spud) Crosse

Simply put the “Tongariro Alpine

Crossing” is more than iconic.

Having trekked and climbed on

seven continents I feel privileged

to live next to what many regard

as the best one day walk in New

Zealand. The dramatic landscape

you experience throughout the

19.4km trek is simply second to

none.

The Park – The Tongariro National

Park is not only the oldest

National park in New Zealand but

in fact was the fourth National

Park established in the world. Now

days the Tongariro National Park

is a UNESCO dual World Heritage

Park, listed for its cultural and

geological significance.

The mountains, the rivers, the

peaks all have strong ties to

the local iwi. You do not really

appreciate this area to you begin

to understand theses ties and the

amazing foresight of Horonuku

Te Heuheu, the paramount chief

of Ngati Tuwharetoa. It was his

foresight in 1887 which is formed

“The Gift”.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing, possibly the most

talked about trek in New Zealand ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 45


Left: Emerald Lake, not for swimming! / Above: Looks like a scene from Lord of the Rings, which it is!

The Crossing has long been one of

NZ’s “Great Walks” and pre Covid saw

numbers peaking at over 140,000 a

summer. It has been regarded as one

of the top ten things for international

backpackers to do. Yes, it is popular

and at 8am at the start of the track at

Mangatepopo you were overwhelmed

with trekkers.

But don’t be put off by these numbers as

now in the Covid time we live in the track

won’t be reach these numbers again

for sometime. But even on during these

busy days you can still find peace and

solitude to enjoy the magic by starting

early or later than the masses. Nothing

can beat standing on the summit of

Red Crater as the sun appears over the

Kaimanawa range and there are just you

and the mountains.

For most people who trek over the

Crossing it will the hardest and furthest

they have ever walked and probably

ever will. The day encompasses two

significant climbs and ends with a

relentless descent.

But for what you see in one day is it

worth it?...The answer…HELL YES..!

While traditionally “Kiwi’s” prefer to

freedom walk our Great Walks for those

who opt for guided experience there

comes a massive satisfaction and sense

of security. To be able to understand

the fascinating geology and gain a

great understanding of the cultural

significance while trekking across an

active volcanic landscape lets you really

enjoy the magic of Tongariro on another

level. It is only on a guided walk will

you understand why the alpine lakes

and peaks of the mountains are sacred

to the local Māori tribe Ngāti Hikairo

ki Tongariro and why now they ask

respectfully, that peaks are not climbed

and waterways are not to be touched.

Hearing how Maori legends like how

Ngatoroirangi brought volcanic activity to

the Aotearoa.

While you can walk the track in either

direction, the majority of people walk it

Mangatepopo to Ketetahi, minimizing

the ascent. There is now a 4 hour

parking restriction at Mangatepopo road

end to allow for those doing short walks.

However, if you are intending on hiking

the entire Tongariro Crossing, there are

many shuttle options available who can

accommodate a range of drop off times

and pick up times.

The dramatic landscape changes

throughout the day which makes this

walk so special. The track begins at the

Mangatepopo carpark and for the first

1.5hrs you wander up the valley towards

Mt Tongariro and Mt Ngauruhoe.

Following the Mangatepopo Stream

(note – this is not suitable for drinking)

and walking over old lava flows that

have spilled out of Mt Ngauruhoe. Soda

Springs is a great place refuel adjust

layers and prepare for the first ascent of

the day.

From Soda Springs at the head of the

valley the climb up the Devil’s Staircase

(approx. 45min) zig zags up to South

Crater allowing for stunning views out to

the west towards Mt Taranaki. The climb

up to South Crater takes you over the

lava flow from 1954 out of Mt Ngauruhoe

which is considered to be the most

continuously active of the volcanoes

in New Zealand. Having erupted more

than 70 times since 1839.

The walk across South Crater is to

enjoyed is to be enjoyed as not only

are the views magical but this is one

of the only flat pieces of track you will

encounter all day.

The last major climb for the day is up

Red Crater ridge past Cathedral rock

and Shelter rock. This section is a lot

more exposed and provides no shelter

from the elements. It is here you get

panoramic views down to the Rangipo

Desert and across the Kaimanawa

Range, the rewards for a hard climb

are well worth it.

Red Crater (1886m) the high point of

the journey simply put is breath taking.

The smell of Sulphur and steaming

vents reminds you are on an active

volcano while looking into Red Crater

it is easy to see where lava spewed

out in 1850’s pouring into the Outere

Valley, South and Central Craters.

The spectacular red colour due to

the presence of oxidised iron in the

rock makes for dramatic viewing. For

the unprepared and inexperienced

trekkers this can be at times totally

unpleasant. As a rule of thumb Red

Crater on a calm day is 10c colder

than National Park Village or Taupo

and if you happen to have a 50km/

hr wind it will be 20c colder. This spot

holds a massive sense of beauty but

must be respected as it can as hostile

as it is majestic.

The descent down off Red Crater

is via a scree slope to Emerald

Lakes known as Ngā Rotopounamu

(greenstone – hued lakes) which are

in fact old explosion pits and ever

changing brilliant colours are formed

the minerals from the surrounding

environment. Some days these

lakes are green in colour and some

days blue. Emerald Lakes marks the

halfway point in the trek and ideal

place to refuel as it is often sheltered.

From Emerald Lakes there is a short

trek over to Central Crater to Blue

Lake The lake is Tapu (sacred) and

it is disrespectful to touch, enter, eat

or drink around its shores. before the

track heads north to the flanks of Mt

Tongariro. The track finishes 350m

lower than the start at Mangatepopo

so expect a long descent zig zaging

down past massive alpine tussocks.

But the views across Lake Rotoaira

and further north east to Lake Taupo

make up for long descent ascent

ahead. The last 1hr of the day is spent

descending through Native Beech

forest, a vast contrast from the lava

flows, lakes and craters from earlier.

THE GIFT

HOMEGROWN TAIAO

TONGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING

NGATI TUWHARETOA PARAMOUNT

CHIEF, TE HEUHEU TUKINO IV

(HORONUKU) GIFTED THE PEAKS

OF RUAPEHU, TONGARIRO AND

NGAURUHOE TO THE PEOPLE OF

NEW ZEALAND IN 1887, WITH THE

INTENT THE CROWN WOULD STAND

ALONGSIDE NGATI TUWHARETOA

TO ENSURE THE CONTINUED

PROTECTION OF TONGARIRO.

THE GIFT FORMED THE NUCLEUS OF

THE TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK.

THE MOUNTAINS OF TONGARIRO ARE

RECOGNIZED AS CENTRAL TO THE

LIVES OF NGATI TUWHARETOA AND

IWI OF THIS AREA.

46//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 47


Welcome to Tongariro Guided Walks

Author, Craig (Spud) Crosse, prepared for a big day

Great Gift Idea

Join us to find out why this is often referred to as the best one day walk in

New Zealand, (if not the world), with a Guide who will reveal some of the

secrets of this stunning area. Now that Aotearoa has closed borders, we are

operating small tours with special pricing for the rest of 2020.

The Weather on the Crossing can be incredible

unpredictable and relentless as you are exposed to

elements for long periods. In 2007 the crossing was

called the "Tongariro Crossing", but this was changed

to the "Tongariro Alpine Crossing" to emphasize the

extreme weather on the exposed terrain.

HOMEGROWN TAIAO

TONGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING

Built by fiery eruptions and sculpted by glaciers, learn about the significance

of Tongariro to those who live nearby, and the history of this, the first Dual

World Heritage National Park in New Zealand.

Tongariro Guided Walks offers quality guided walking experiences on tracks

in and around the Tongariro National Park, Aotearoa New Zealand's very first

World Heritage site.

With the international borders closed we have some special deals operating,

we know that there are still plenty of people keen to get out and explore.

Specialising in small groups and Private tours, our knowledgeable, caring

guides can also manage large groups in a way that makes each person, on

every trip, feel that they have gained insights into the landscape, its people

and its history. We have your comfort and safety in mind.

Trip Advisor

2020

Travelers

Choice

winner

While the Crossing can be walked anytime of the year

a winter journey requires alpine travel experience

and being competent with ice axe and crampons at a

minimum and is best done with a guide.

The Outdoor Safety Code

1. Plan your trip

2. Tell someone

3. Be aware of the weather

4. Know your limits

5. Take sufficient supplies

THE STATS

LENGTH 19.4KM – ALLOW 6-8HR

DESCRIPTION: CHALLENGING

ASCENT: 776M - DESCENT: 1126M

Don’t just do a good walk......

do a GREAT one!

www.greatwalksofnewzealand.co.nz

info@greatwalksofnewzealand.co.nz

0800 496 369

0800 4 A WALK | +64 273 089 689 | tongAriroguidedWALKs.nz

Fully organised & supported self-guided & guided walks.

Bringing the New Zealand outdoors

......a step closer to you!


"The dramatic landscape

changes throughout the

day which makes this walk

so special."

50//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222

The crossing's magestical beauty


Mt Ruapehu

The managebale challengea

For those who want to head away from the crowds, who want a real mountain

experience, who want that manageable challenge, then take full day Ruapehu Guided

Walk with Adrift Tongariro is just right for you.

TONGARIRO ALPINE

CROSSING TRANSPORT

Mt Ruapehu is the largest active volcano in New Zealand, it is the highest point in the

North Island and has three major peaks: Tahurangi (2,797 m), Te Heuheu (2,755 m)

and Paretetaitonga (2,751 m). There is a deep, active crater is between the peaks

which fills with water between major eruptions, known as Crater Lake (Māori: Te Wai

ā-moe) and is considered sacred.

return transport

Summit Shuttles ‘park n ride’ located

at 1 Ward St National Park Village –

next to The Station Café

PICK UP TIMES 5.45AM, 7.00AM,

8.15AM, 9.30AM

Other transport options:

NORTHERN CIRCUIT

WHAKAPAPA SKI AREA

SIGHTSEEING

MOUNTAIN BIKING

TARANAKI FALLS

SILICA RAPIDS

BUS / TRAIN TRANSFERS

ROUND THE MOUNTAIN TRACK

With no international visitors

this summer, now is the time to do

the world famous Tongariro

Alpine Crossing. One of the best

one day hikes on the planet.

Mountain bike hire and Transport to

FISHERS TRACK

OLD COACH ROAD

42ND TRAVERSE

MARTON SASH & DOOR

NZ highest Stand up

paddleboarding

Walking distance to the top is around 10

km return or 7 km return when the chairlift

is utilised. Walking time is about 6-7

hours. This walk requires a good level of

fitness. The terrain is often uneven and

can be steep in places. It is possible to

take the walk as far as Knoll Ridge Cafe if

you are concerned about your fitness.

During winter and times of snow, surface

conditions will vary from day to day as

you would expect. So to be safe you want

to make sure you go with a local guide,

someone to keep you safe and who can

give you insights about the environment

and where you are. Crampons and ice

axes are required, but it is all part of the

alpine experience and your guide will

provide instruction on how to use them

correctly.

Summiting Mt Ruapehu, with Adrift Tongariro

Mt. Ruapehu. There may be an option

of taking a chairlift or the Gondola up

to Knoll Ridge cafe. This option will

depend on the group on the day and

if the chairlifts are operating. The lifts

close at 4.00 pm daily, should conditions

deteriorate during the day the lifts may

have to be closed earlier. So you need to

be prepared to walk down.

There are transfer options from all the

local towns. If you are inexperienced in

alpine conditioned, we strongly advise

you to take a guided tour, you will be safe,

well equipped and entertained.

Your world-famous backyard awaits you…

Explore the mighty Tongariro National

Park the way it used to be; with no

crowds!

0800 828 294

summitshuttles@gmail.com

info@mykiwiadventure.co.nz

summitshuttles.com mykiwiadventure.co.nz

Any transport options available! Bookings essential!

There is something special to have lunch

on top of the North Island highest volcano

from where you can gaze down into the

geothermal waters of the crater lake and

look down from the North Islands highest

point.

But it is worthy to note this is not the

Tongariro Crossing, there are not the

same boundary markings, no nicely

chiselled steps and permanent lines to

hold on too, that is why it pays to take

a guide! The track is alpine and is less

stable walking than on the Tongariro

Alpine Crossing.

The walk begins at the Whakapapa Ski

area at the top of the Bruce Road on

Currently, there are some great ‘specials’

to take advantage of and you can

postpone your trip at any time up until 30

April 2021 at this special price.

Adrift Tongariro guided trips will deliver

a friendly, informative and unforgettable

experience. The breath-taking scenery

speaks for itself and our guides will

constantly monitor the weather and

conditions for your safety and time your

customised pickup. They will explain the

geography and history of the Tongariro

National Park and New Zealand along

with details on the flora, fauna and

geology of the area. Clothing, footwear

and any essential equipment required

for the walk can be hired from Adrift

Tongariro. www.adriftnz.co.nz


STAY AT ADVENTURE LODGE, NATIONAL PARK

TONGARIRO CROSSING SPECIAL

• 2 x nights accommodation in a lodge budget room

($220 each) or self contained apartment ($275 each

person) – min two persons!

• 2 x cooked breakfasts

• 2 x breakfasts on the run (bacon, egg and cheese in

an English muffin) orange juice and breakfast biscuits

– perfect to take to the crossing – sit on a rock and

look at the views!! /2 x cut gourmet cut lunches and

all the water you can carry! / 2 x complimentary shuttle

rides to the crossing – return trip! / 2 x hot spa’s

after the Crossing!

• Free unlimited wifi!

Facilities include: Bar fully licienced on premises, room

service of a meat, cheese and bread platter after the

crossing (extra cost of $45 per platter or $75 platter with

a bottle of wine included) to be paid upon ordering.

Dual Heritage

Tongariro National Park

plateaulodge.co.nz

info@plateaulodge.co.nz

+64 7 8922993

Tongariro Crossing

Packages starting at

$234 per couple

Breakfast /Lunch/

Shuttle/Spa time/Wifi

Comfortable Accommodation:

Dorm beds to private double rooms with ensuite

Indoor Climbing Wall:

Open daily 9am to 8pm

Tongariro Crossing Shuttle:

Right from our doorstep all summer

“Why Wait?

Adventure starts here”

Tongariro National Park Villages

Dual Heritage Tongariro

National Park

www.tongariroalpinecrossing.org.nz | www.nationalpark.co.nz

Central Taupo Motel accommodation

searchers look for the best central location,

quality reviews and great service.

Welcome to Acapulco Motor Inn, the best

affordable Taupo Motel.

This Taupo Motel is a kiwi family run

business that loves their job and takes pride

in presenting the best choice for a Taupo

Motel. A short walk to central Taupo with an

array of shops and eateries. Try some local

kiwi flavours and some Must Do activities to

maximise your Taupo visit.

Acapulco Taupo Motor Inn has a range of

accommodation choices that can sleep from

1 to 8 guests. Some Motel rooms have a spa

Pool or spa bath. All Motel rooms have air

conditioning.

Bed and Breakfast

Budget Lodge Accommodation

Self-Contained Motel Units

Packages available for skiing and Tongariro Crossing

adventurenationalpark.co.nz | 0800 621 061

54//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222

4 Findlay Street, National Park

www.npbp.co.nz | 07 892 2870 | nat.park.backpackers@xtra.co.nz

Check through our accommodation choices

to match your needs to the best Acapulco

Motor Inn room or apartment.

A: 19 Rifle Range Road, Taupo 3330 | T: +64 7 378 7174 | F: +64 7 378 7555 | M: +64 21 800 118

E: stay@acapulcotaupo.co.nz W: www.acapulcotaupo.co.nz


Jess riding high during the South Island's summer months

Jess in ski-race action

Rising Star

Jess Blewitt

Images by Dylan Foote

18 year old Jess Blewitt grew up in the

surf town of Mount Manganui, where

she found her love of the outdoors in

the ocean. But it was a move to the

South Island that flamed her passion for

the mountains. Jess has been creating

a stir in the world of downhill ski racing

and now mountain biking. We caught up

with Jess for a quick chat…

Can you tell us a little bit about how you

found your love in the outdoors? I lived in

Mount Maunganui and was a competitive life

saver at Omanu Surf Club in the summer. I

was a life guard during the holidays for the

2016/17 summer. But the lure to the snow

in the winter was greater than the surf. So as

you can see I have always had a competitive

nature and been in competitive sports from a

young age.

Mum and dad were keen skiers. They

never ski raced, but wanted to pass on their

passion for the sport of skiing to us. My first

race was a “Friday fun race” at Sunpeaks

in Canada. My Mum and her friend Jan,

were keen to get the local primary school at

Mount Maunganui, Omanu Primary school

involved in ski racing. So the Omanu Ski

team was formed and we trained and raced

for our primary school at Mount Ruapehu.

Fed up with travelling to the North

Island, and most events being

affected by weather, in 2013, Mum

and dad decided to relocate the

family for the winter to Queenstown.

Both my brother and I attended the

local primary school, Queenstown

Primary school and learnt to ski race

with QAST (Queenstown Alpine Ski

Team.) We did the winter relocations

for 5 years, before deciding in

January 2017 that we would make

a permanent move to Queenstown,

because “ why not”. Mum and dad

said if we didn’t like it, then we could

always move back. So I started my

Year 11 at Wakatipu High School with

my younger brother in Year 9 and

haven’t looked back.

I got introduced to downhill

mountain biking in 2018 and started

competitively in the 2019 season.

There are obviously a lot of

similarities between downhill ski

racing and downhill mountain

biking. Can you tell us about

the similarities and differences

between the two sports. Do you

have a preference? They are both

adrenalin sports involving high speed

and risk. The only difference is ski

racing is a “set course” with just snow

to land on, whereas mountain biking

has rocks, roots and dirt ! I definitely

prefer mountain biking as there is

always something different in terms

of tracks.

You have had successes in both

disciplines. What are some of

the highlights of each? Skiing:

Second overall in New Zealand in

my last year of Ski racing U16. Being

selected to race in Whistler Cup for

New Zealand in Canada in 2017,

even though I didn’t go.

Mountain Biking: NZ National

Championships 2020 and Oceania

Champ 2020. | No. 1 Junior at

Crankworks in 2020 and 2nd fastest

time overall, second to Tracey

Hannah, from Australia who is

currently No. 1 Elite Female ( 2019

overall World Cup series winner )

You planned to attend two world

cups this year, but Covid 19 had

other plans. What was supposed

to be happening and where? I had

intended on traveling to Maribor,

in Slovenia and Losinj, Croatia in

April/May 2020 with my family to

compete as a Junior and represent

New Zealand at these two World

Cups, and then following selection

for the NZ team for World Champs,

and then Covid 19 arrived and

Losinj, got cancelled and Maribor

got postponed until October. But

then everything got taken out of my

hands when an announcement was

made on the Cycling NZ website that

NO JUNIORS would be selected

for World Champs and unless you

were on a “trade team” that you

could not enter any of the remaining

World Cups. These Junior races

are so important in actually getting

“recognised” by the rest of the world

to get on these trade teams, so I was

really gutted that this decision had been

made.

What have your experiences

been like in a predominately male

dominated sportor is that perception

changing? It is difficult, and especially

in New Zealand where there are not

many female riders. I truly want to ride

and race internationally where there are

a lot more female riders, inparticular I

would like to go to Canada and base

myself there.

When you are not mountain biking,

what would we find you doing?

Skiing for fun.

Best/worse/funniest thing about

your life/sport? The first year I moved

down permanently to Queenstown for

Year 11, I tried my hand at Rowing

competitively. My coach told me I

wasn’t allowed to mountain bike, as I

kept getting injured. I was constantly in

the dog box….… My rowing days were

numbered anyway as the sport didn’t

appeal as it didn’t have the adrenalin

buzz or speed of which I love about my

sports today.

How would your friends describe

you? Determined, focused,

competitive.

Local places you like to ride. I

would really like to promote the sport

of Mountain Biking in Queenstown

and give a plug for riding at Skyline,

Coronet Peak, Heli Biking New

Zealand, Queenstown Bike Taxis ( for

shuttling up Rude Rock, Coronet Peak

and Clyde, Alexandra and TrailConnect,

based in Wanaka. Also the local enduro

trails at Five Mile, Queenstown and

Sticky Forest, Wanaka.

Where to in the future? The

immediate future is focusing on the

New Zealand 2021 racing season, as

my first year as an Elite racer.

The season kicks off at 440, MTB

Park in Auckland on the 24th January,

followed by the second round , at Dome

Valley, North of Auckland on the 31st

January.

The 3rd Round is at Jentree, in

Marlbourgh, Blenheim on the 7th Feb,

with the final round at Coronet Peak,

Queenstown on the 13th February

The National MTB Championships

are to be held in Christchurch and the

Christchurch MTB Park on the 27th and

28th February. There has been no date

or venue set for Oceania’s for 2021

which will be in Australia in 2021.

With the uncertainty of racing next

year, due to Covid, I am going to start

University in 2021 in Wellington. I

have applied to do Architecture. My

dream is to transfer with a scholarship

to a Canadian University in 2022, and

continue my studies in Architecture

over there and ride and race as an Elite

female in the hopes of being in the top

10 in the world.

Have you had any significant

mentors/sponsors/parents who

have helped along the way? What

role have they each played in your

success or even your love of the

outdoors? NZMTB coach - Gavin Key

who is based in Wanaka and volunteers

his time to the youth sport of mountain

biking has been a great support and

mentor for me, especially in relation to

the mental preparation for this sport.

Tracey Hannah - Number one Female

Elite DH Mountain Bike World Cup

series winner for the 2019 season

(AUSTRALIA). I was lucky to be

introduced to Tracey earlier this year

in Queenstown, when she was training

with her factory team, Polygon UR.

I got to do some training runs with

her at Skyline and Coronet Peak (of

which is now open for mountain biking

with a DH track and a XC track). This

year Coronet Peak, hosted one of the

National rounds and will again host

round 4 of the Nationals on the 13th

and 14th February 2021(XC and DH).

And of course my parents - they

have supported me financially and

emotionally through the ups and downs

of this sport.

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 57


posure

X

AFTER THE

THRILL

COMES TIME TO

CHILL.

When you’re done exploring our beautiful backyard, there’s nothing better than coming home

and relaxing in the spa or in front of the fireplace. Choose from over 2,000 Bachcare holiday

homes across New Zealand as base for your next adventure. Use code: ADVENTURE50 for an

exclusive $50* off your next booking on bachcare.co.nz. Ts&Cs apply.

*Terms & Conditions: Voucher is vaild from

01.10.2020 to 30.11.2020 for stays from

01.10.2020 to 30.11.2020. Voucher can only be

redeemed on www.bachcare.co.nz. Voucher can

not be used with other vouchers or promotions.

Red Bull Illume Energy Category Entry

Photographer: Robin O'Neill

Athlete: Chris Rubens

Location: Pemberton, BC, Canada

Category finalist at the Red Bull Illume

58//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 Photo by Christian Heilwagen

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 59


This label went viral on Twitter,

but it was only the latest anti

-Trump call to action from

Patagonia. The company has

responded aggressively and

openly to the US government’s

environmental changes with

increasingly outspoken crusades

to protect the country and

indigenous public lands – is the

label protagonistic? Yes. Is the

message clear? Yes. Is it obvious

who it is aimed at? Yes.

But the question remains,

is this a real concern for the

environment or an extremely

subtle calculated form of

marketing.

Outdoor companies are not

known for their subtly, but they

are known for what they believe

in. I honestly have to say it gave

me a certain feeling of pride

that some outdoor companies

are leading the way with these

controversial issues; not just with

recycled clothing and acceptable

employment conditions but also

being vocal in the political arena.

Basically as New Zealander’s we

are level-headed, and most of us

when we look at what is going on

in American politics, have gone

past being horrified and now we

just shake our heads and mutter

WTF. It has got to the point that

Vote the arseholes out

By Steve Dickinson

any logic attached to any US

political decision seems twisted.

And as the rest of the world in

union shakes its head, there

are a limited number of outdoor

companies (along with others)

trying with limited resources, to

make a difference.

Outdoors enthusiasts are not a

one size fits all group. They will

include mum and dad shopping

for a tent before the summer

holidays, fishermen picking gear

before a week at the coast,

skiers buying gloves before they

head up the mountain or people

buying boots for that longawaited

tramp. They cover all

political opinions and all political

diversities. But what they all have

in common is a propensity to

want to protect the places they

love and that is as evident in

New Zealand as it is in the US.

Just in the US, like most things in

America, it is a lot bigger and it

is a lot more evident as elections

loom.

Environmental activism and

advocacy is hardly new to many

outdoor companies, the industry

is becoming increasingly vocal

on specific topics; climate

change, land preservation,

indigenous rights, social media

‘stop hate’, ‘time to vote’ and

more recently BLM.

What is less clear is whether

this type of support from retail

companies actually changes

people’s minds or do they even

care.

It is becoming more apparent

that customers, clients, and

employees are now looking

to companies to reflect values

alongside their products and to

actually make an open stand

on issues that are important to

them. We have seen clearly in

the BLM protests that the option

to stand still and do nothing is a

vote for the status quo and that

no stand or no participation is no

longer seen as an option.

The outdoor companies are very aware of

their customer base, and in most cases,

they know that their customers feel the

same way they do about key issues. But

is the company’s reaction to those political

agendas good salesmanship on the part

of the outdoor company, or a real unity of

vision? Unlike handbags and baked beans,

customers of key outdoor brands have a

deep and bonded relationship and loyalty

built on awareness, quality and in some

cases life and death situations. You buy a

Patagonia jacket or climbing rope because

you know it will do what it says it will do.

And out of that relationship comes loyalty

and trust which is now being leveraged

as a joint agreement to address some key

political ideas.

No outdoor retailer has been more

outspoken and leading the way other than

Patagonia. The Ventura-based company

has never been slow to throw the first

punch in a political fight. Founder Yvon

Chouinard is well known for his black and

white approach, he is the author of “You are

part of it’ and ‘The responsible Company’

and has been involved in several books

related to the environment, climate change

and politics.

Since the 1980s Patagonia has given

1% of all sales revenue to environmental

causes and awarded over $89 million in

cash and in-kind donations to domestic

and international grassroots environmental

groups who are making a difference in their

local communities.

The company’s disapproval of the

Trump administration began early in his

presidency.

Patagonia had pushed for the

establishment of Bears Ears

National Monument in Utah,

supporting a campaign led by

Native American tribes seeking

to protect their ancestral lands.

President Obama created the

1.35-million-acre monument

in late 2016. Eleven months

later, in early December of

2017, Trump reduced Bears

Ears by 85 per cent, an action

supposedly that Utah officials

and some residents wanted.

His rollback followed a uranium

firm’s concerted lobbying. It

was the largest reduction of

a national park in American

history and as you would

expect there was outrage.

The day after Trump announced

his decision to reduce Bears Ears

and Grand Staircase-Escalante

monuments, Patagonia replaced

its home page with an all-black

background and the stark message,

“The president stole your land.”

The ‘rollback’ is still in the courts –

including through a lawsuit filed by

Patagonia.

Knowing it’s not just enough to

complain, in 2018 Patagonia

helped found a campaign called

‘time to vote’ which resulted in

more than 1,000 companies

across the U.S. economy (both

inside and outside the adventure

industry) committing to giving their

employees enough time to vote on

election day. As not having time to

vote was given as the main reason

for not voting. It was their way of

getting the people activated.

Currently, Patagonia is also urging

customers to “make a plan to vote,”

offering an app that uses home

addresses to help find a polling

place or learn how to vote by mail.

REI’s website features a similar

page.

Is this political stand, this

outpouring always good for the

company? There have been

several ‘backlash’ incidents in such

a divided political environment, and

yes as with all political issues there

is always two or more side and

there is certainly a risk involved.

An example is Dick’s Sporting Goods,

a hunting and fishing store in the US,

that in the wake of the Parkland school

shooting in 2018, announced it would

restrict its gun sales. Unfortunately

there was a harsh backlash from

some customers and anti-gun control

agencies. Walmart also received

the same backlash when it reduced

gun sales. In 2015 Walmart removed

assault-style semi-automatic rifles from

its shelves. Then in 2018, two weeks

after the Florida Parkland high school

shooting where 17 people were killed,

Walmart changed the minimum buying

age from 18 to 21, and once again

there were severe backlash, protests

and calls for boycotts by customer and

anti-gun control groups.

There are plenty of voices among

conservatives to boycott Patagonia

as well, after the message that was

posted on their website which said ‘the

President stole your land’.

The official Twitter account of a U.S.

House committee used its platform to

bluntly accuse the outdoor clothing

retailer of lying to the public about

President Donald Trump's decision

to significantly reduce the protected

land of two Utah national monuments.

The House panel is chaired by Rep.

Rob Bishop, who has openly received

hefty donations over the years from the

oil and gas industry, according to the

Centre for Responsive Politics. Bishop

is also a staunch supporter of Trump's

agenda and votes in line with it roughly

94 per cent of the time.

The industry is becoming increasingly vocal on specific topics;

climate change, land preservation, indigenous rights, social media

‘stop hate’, ‘time to vote’ and more recently BLM.

60//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222


STRONG & LIGHT

Recently a handful of the biggest

names in outdoor gear suspended

ads across Facebook and

#Instgram for the month of July

as part of #StopHateforProfit,

an accountability campaign

demanding a set of changes

from Facebook around racism,

misinformation and other harmful

content on its platform. Over 1200

companies have been demanding

accountability, decency, and

support. You can read more about it

here https://www.stophateforprofit.

org/demand-change

The campaign issued a set of

actionable demands for the company,

calling for Facebook to stop collecting

ad revenue from “misinformation and

harmful content,” demanding more

resources for users targeted by racism

and other forms of hate and asking

the company to provide moderators

for private groups. It almost the next

level of activism where companies are

trying to now get involved and using

the weight of their dollar investment

to prevent issues from developing or

getting worse.

Whether it is a subtle statement on a

clothing tag or protests over land rights

in a courtroom, outdoor companies are

leading the way for more than just how

they deal with manufacturing, product,

and chemicals to slow down climate

change. They have now rolled up their

sleeves to be part of the battle to ‘make

real change’ for the better and that is

something to be proud of.

One thing you will not find on Patagonia’s

website. The shorts with that provocative

tag. They are already sold out.

R A V E N 3 G T X

Designed to make light work of tough alpine terrain in variable conditions

b obo.co.nz/salewa


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a thirst for

adventure

The quintessential drink after a hard

day out in the cold is a ‘wee dram’,

whether out of a hipflask by the

campfire or sitting in a chair with a

crystal cut glass savouring a great day

with an equally great drink.

Whisky distilling in New Zealand was

born with the arrival of Scottish settlers

in the 1830s. Many Scots settled in

the Otago region and the industry

flourished here until the 1870s, when

onerous government regulations

effectively shut it down.

Things have changed now and there

are a range of great distilleries here in

Aotearoa, we have manged to create

some stunning products, we thought we

might share a few.

Milford Single Malts

The Milford range of Single Malt

were available in a 10, 15, 18 and

20-year-old, aged in oak casks.

Created in the splendid, remote

South Island, among the echoes

and reflections of the Scottish

Highlands and Western Isles,

Milford Is one of the world’s great

single malts.

High Wheeler

21-Year-Old

A of 70% single malt, and 30%

premium grain whisky made from

unmalted barley in the Dunedin

distillery. Aged for 21 years in

American oak, ex-bourbon casks. The

whiskey has a sort of sweetness to it

exceptionally smooth and clean body.

The distiller refers to it as having a chilli

pepper warmth giving way to a long

salty and sweet finish.

posure X

Cardrona Just Hatched

Solera Single Malt

Whisky

The Cardrona Single Malt Whisky

"Just Hatched". A marriage of

ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks,

this "Just Hatched" Whisky

reveals Cardrona's underlying

character of borage flower honey,

vanilla, spice, it tastes great, it is

young but is an indication of the

adult whisky to come.

www.cardronadistillery.com/

Oamaruvian 100 Proof

18-Year-Old

A Blend of 70% single malt, and 30%

premium grain whisky produced from

unmalted barley. Aged for 6 years in

American Bourbon barrels, before

finishing for 12 years in French Oak NZ

wine barrels, giving ruby colour and longlasting,

rich flavours. Plus it is in a very

cool bottle.

Thomson Manuka Smoke

Single malt

Made from 100% New Zealand grown

malted barley, smoked using Manuka

wood, and distilled through a hand

beaten copper pot still, Manuka Smoke

release in its youth. This ‘work in

progress’ bottling offers natural smoke,

cinnamon, clove, and Manuka oils.

No chill filtering No colouring – it is

absolutely delicious – and won few

prizes Silver New Zealand Whisky

Awards 2018 -Silver Outstanding medal

winner IWSC UK 2017 Gold Medal

winner San Francisco World Spirit

Competition 2016.

www.thomsonwhisky.com/productrange

Thompson TWO TONE WHISKY

Silver New Zealand Whisky Awards 2018

Silver Outstanding medal winner IWSC UK 2017

Gold Medal winner San Francisco World Spirit

Competition 2016

Two Tone refers to the two kinds of cask used for

the maturation of this whisky; European oak which

formerly held New Zealand red wine and American

white oak used exclusively for whisky. No colouring

won a few awards as well Silver New Zealand

Whisky Awards 2018, Silver Outstanding medal

winner IWSC UK 2017, Gold Medal winner San

Francisco World Spirit Competition 2016

www.thomsonwhisky.com/productrange

Category finalist, Red Bull Illume 2020

Photographer: Christian Heilwagen


THE VANLIFE HIKER VIRUS

By Jessica Middleton

"Sometimes in life, the little moments amount

to be the biggest, and when jet-setting you miss

out on all the details in between."

Vanlife and any form of adventure go hand in hand, or foot and foot if you want to refer that

back to hiking. This is a perfect combination that just so happens to be peaking right now and

for good reason. Due to the effects of Covid-19, holidays and activities have been urged to be

taken locally and many people have seen this as a blessing in disguise. Money is being put

back into the economy and the environment is taking a break from the pressures of human

activity.

Is there such a thing as a good virus? One that's symptoms include spreading happiness,

elevated fitness, feelings of accomplishment, uplifted spirits, a clear head, and simply a pretty

sight for sore eyes? If so I'm calling it the TVH virus. 'The Vanlife Hiker'. A bug you might not

ever shake off but one you'll certainly want to keep in your system.

Many of our incomes have been affected by the other virus that shall not be named, and luckily

with the TVH combo, you can plan a getaway without breaking the bank. Are you starting to get

itchy feet? Now is the perfect time to be a tourist in your own country. When you travel by van,

a whole new world opens up to you, little hidden tracks and sparkling blue pools are waiting

to be discovered. Sometimes in life, the little moments amount to be the biggest, and when

jet-setting you miss out on all the details in between. On your next hiking spree do good by

supporting the locals and small businesses by checking out markets, cafes, or any other hidden

gems or activities on the way.

66//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 67


Although you and your van are BFFS, like any healthy

relationship it's imperative to have balance. Spending too much

time behind the wheel calls for a pitstop for both the vehicle and

you. It's time to stretch those legs, get the blood flowing, and

immerse yourself deeper into the wilderness.

This is where hiking in turn compliments a vanlife lifestyle.

They say "get your head out of the clouds" as if coming from a

negative context. Well, I recently had the pleasure of hiking to

the top of Mount Walsh in Queensland, Australia where my head

was so deep in the clouds I couldn't think more clearly if I tried.

There were no distractions, just the fresh air and my thoughts to

process. Which got me thinking it's vital for humans to be out in

nature, it puts thoughts into perspective as we are spending too

much time indoors. Hiking is a perfect activity to get involved in

whilst adhering to social distancing as there's plenty of land to

explore while avoiding populated areas. If you could fly your van

on top of mountains or deep into the valleys would you? Yes, so

why not let your feet do the walking, you'll seriously be surprised

at how wonderful a wanderlust lifestyle is.

Vanlife travel provides constant opportunity for reaching epic

destinations and hiking is one of the best ways to soak them all

in. Now, that's a perfect cocktail just waiting to be made for your

next holiday plans.

Hiking is a worldwide sport loved by many people and we are so fortunate in both New

Zealand and Australia to home some of the most renowned and iconic hiking trails. The

amazing perk to hiking is it requires minimal gear making this a low-cost expedition.

With a range of different levels of difficulty, it caters for all abilities appealing to almost

anyone.

This is where Vanlife takes your hiking experience up a notch. Sure it transports

you to your hiking destinations but it also provides a home base in-between. I don't

blame some people for not wanting to hike sometimes, driving back long distances

after an adventure fuelled day can take its toll. Knowing your van is equipped with

all your favourites takes the edge off and turns what could be a daunting experience

into an enjoyable one. Having a van nearby your excursion brings comfort, whether

that be simply squeezing in a snooze in-between locations, cooking a meal to refuel,

or charging your electronics such as your camera battery to ensure good moments

are being captured. We installed a TV into our van and can honestly say after hiking,

cracking open a well-deserved drink and watching a movie is seriously rewarding.

Have you ever found you arrive at a hike to be enlightened that there are plenty more

trails to uncover? For instance, when we travelled to Karijini there were 5 gorges, we

definitely could not complete all 5 in a day, and paying for expensive accommodation

throughout that time was not viable either.

"It's vital for humans to

be out in nature, it puts

thoughts into perspective

as we are spending too

much time indoors."

Our van allowed us to discover each gorge in unpressured time and return to our van

Dusty to refresh, stoke the fire and watch the stars emerge upon twilight. It would

have been unnecessary paying for expensive accommodation regardless as we were

spending the majority of our time outdoors anyhow. Travelling via van extends your

holiday allowing you to achieve more with your time, no having to return home to

restock supplies. Want to get more bang for your buck? To put it into perspective, one

of our 6 week vanlife holidays cost the same as one of our trips 10 days abroad.

68//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222


FEED YOUR ADDICTION

Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and

development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are

made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole

new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s

online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able

drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are

a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.

Ultra lightweight running shoes, made by runners. No

matter where the trail takes you, Hoka One One will

have you covered.

www.hokaoneone.co.nz

Earth Sea Sky has more than 25 years experience

in New Zealand’s outdoor clothing industry. Their

experience in design, production and sales fills a

growing need in the market for outdoor clothing that

combined comfort, style and performance.

www.earthseasky.co.nz

Never have a dead phone

again! Because now you can

charge straight from the Sun

with SunSaver. Perfect for

that week-long hike, day at

the beach, or back-up for any

emergency. Check us out at:

www.sunsaver.co.nz

A leading importer and

distributor of snow and

outdoor products in New

Zealand. Stock includes

Salewa, Lange, Dynastar,

Spyder and more.

www.bobo.co.nz

Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor

clothing, footwear and equipment from the best

brands across New Zealand & the globe.

www.bivouac.co.nz

Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel

& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &

casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.

www.merrell.co.nz

The ultimate sandals

with core concepts like

durability, pull through

strap design and the ability

to re-sole.

www.chacos.co.nz

Full-service outfitter selling hiking

and mountaineering gear and

apparel, plus equipment rentals.

Specialising in ski & snowboard

touring equipment new & used;

skis, boards, bindings, skins,

probs, shovels,transceivers &

avalanche packs.

www.smallplanetsports.com

Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills

or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last

and engineered to perform — proudly designed and

tested in New Zealand since 1973.

www.macpac.co.nz

The ultimate in quality outdoor clothing

and equipment for travel, hiking, camping,

snowsports, and more. Guaranteed for life.

www.marmotnz.co.nz

Developing the pinnacle

of innovative outerwear for

50 years. Shop now and

never stop exploring.

www.thenorthface.co.nz

Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional

outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.

www.patagonia.co.nz

Offering the widest variety,

best tasting, and most

nutrient rich hydration,

energy, and recovery

products on the market.

www.guenergy.co.nz

Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz

Stocking an extensive range

of global outdoor adventure

brands for your next big

adventure. See them for travel,

tramping, trekking, alpine and

lifestyle clothing and gear.

www.outfittersstore.nz

Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,

Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,

Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.

www.equipoutdoors.co.nz

Jetboil builds super-dependable

backpacking stoves and camping

systems that pack light,

set up quick, and achieve

rapid boils in minutes.

www.jetboilnz.co.nz

Supplying tents and

camping gear to Kiwis

for over 30 years, Kiwi

Camping are proud to

be recognised as one of

the most trusted outdoor

brands in New Zealand.

www.kiwicamping.co.nz

MTOUTDOORS

Outdoor equipment store specialising in ski retail, ski

rental, ski touring and climbing.

www.mtoutdoors.co.nz

Making great gear for the outdoors,

right here in New Zealand: high

quality items that have been

crafted with care to include all the

features that are important, nothing

superfluous and, above all, that

are more durable than anything out

there in the marketplace.

www.cactusoutdoors.co.nz

Choose your perfect holiday accommodation from the

largest selection of pre-serviced holiday homes, baches,

and apartments available for rent in New Zealand. Book

instantly online with Bachcare's real-time availability.

www.bachcare.co.nz

Excellent quality Outdoor

Gear at prices that can't

be beaten. End of lines.

Ex Demos. Samples. Last

season. Bearpaw. Garneau.

Ahnu. Superfeet.

www.adventureoutlet.co.nz

70//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 71


Back Country Cuisine

CHICKEN CARBONARA: A freeze dried

chicken and pasta dish, served in a creamy

italian style sauce. Available in small serve

90g or regular serve 175g sizes.

MUSHROOM BOLOGNAISE - VEGAN:

Mushrooms with tomato in a savory sauce,

served with noodles. Available in small

serve 90g or regular serve 175g sizes.

RRP $9.29 and $13.89

CHOCOLATE BROWNIE PUDDING: Our

take on chocolate self-saucing pudding,

with chocolate brownie, boysenberries and

chocolate sauce. Gluten Free. Available in

regular serve.

RRP 150g $12.89

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ

Jetboil Flash 2.0

BOIL IN SECONDS, NOT MINUTES

Blistering boil times come standard on

our industry-leading Flash. By modelling

the combustion and selecting materials

to optimize efficiency, we were able to

create the fastest Jetboil ever — cutting

a full minute off our best boil time.

RRP $249.95

WWW.JETBOILNZ.CO.NZ

Jetboil MiniMo

It's about cooking. MiniMo

delivers UNMATCHED simmer

control, metal handles, and a

low spoon angle for easy eating!

Starting with the innovative new

valve design, MiniMo delivers

the finest simmer control of any

upright canister system on the

market.

RRP $329.95

WWW.JETBOILNZ.CO.NZ

Back Country Cuisine

ICED MOCHA: Our mocha is made with

chocolate and coffee combined with soft

serve to give you a tasty drink on the run.

Gluten Free. 85g.

RRP $4.09

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ

FUELING EPIC

ADVENTURES

FOR 21 YEARS

Wherever your next

adventure is about to

lead you, we’ve got

the goods to keep you

going.

Deep creek harvest

Hemp Hash IPA

6.5% ABV

Seasonal release for the NZ

referendum. Cannabis and hops

are actually related. Both come

from the cannabaceae family.

They do share some physical

traits, such as appearance and

similar aromas. However they

differ on the chemical level. Both

produce terpenes; cannabis

terpenes are psychoactive, where

hops are purely for flavour, aroma

and bitterness. Hemp is a variety

of the Cannabis Sativa plant,

and has high concentrations

of CBD, the non psychoactive

cannabinoid.Hops and Hemp

oils have been shown to help in

relaxation, when consumed in

moderate levels.

Chill, drink, & chill.

RRP $8.99

WWW.DEEPCREEK.CO.NZ

Deep creek haze

Hazy Pale Ale

4.7% ABV

Meet the newest member of

the Deep Creek team.

Haze is beautifully balanced,

with low bitterness and a ton

of juiciness. It's light bodied

and easy drinking with

tropical flavours of mango,

stone fruit and orange.

Sunshine in a can!

RRP $22.99 (6 PACK)

WWW.DEEPCREEK.CO.NZ

Gasmate 3L Watertech Portable Hot Water

System

Heats up to 3 litres per minute and features

adjustable temperature and water flow settings.

Handheld showerhead, gas fitting, automatic

ignition, and LED temperature display screen.

RRP $499.00

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

Jetboil Summit Skillet

Our new non-stick Summit Skillet packs the performance

of your kitchen pans into a trail-ready solution. Not only

does it improve your backcountry cooking versatility, the

turner nests into the handle for compact and lightweight

travel. After all, your meals on the trail deserve to be just

as good as your adventures.

RRP $119.95

WWW.JETBOILNZ.CO.NZ

KIWI CAMping Illuminator Light

with Power Bank

Light up the campsite with a bright 1000

Lumen LED with 5 lighting modes. The

hanging hook, built-in stand, and tripod

mount provide versatile positioning

options. Charges most devices.

RRP $89.99

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

Est. 1998 Back Country

Cuisine specialises in

a range of freeze-dried

products, from tasty

meals to snacks and

everything in between, to

keep your energy levels up

and your adventures wild.

backcountrycuisine.co.nz



Sunsaver Classic 16,000mAh

Solar Power Bank

Built tough for the outdoors and

with a massive battery capacity

you can keep all your devices

charged no matter where your

adventure takes you.

RRP: $119.00

WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ

Sunsaver Super-Flex 14-Watt

Solar Charger

Putting out over 2.5-Amps of output

on a sunny day you’ll charge your

phone and devices in no time at all,

straight from the sun.

RRP: $199.00

WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ

Jetboil fuel

Jetpower fuel contains a blend of propane and iso-butane.

Propane provides higher vapour pressure to the fuel which

means better performance in cold weather. Fuel efficiency

translates to weight, space, and money savings.

RRP $7.99 - $16.99

WWW.JETBOILNZ.CO.NZ

charmate 4.5 Quart Round Cast Iron Camp Oven Kit

Solid construction with thicker walls and base for consistent heat

transfer. Pre-seasoned and ready to use. Cool touch wire handle.

Includes lid lifter, trivet, gloves and storage bag.

RRP $99.99

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ


Gear guide

KLYMIT INSULATED V ULTRALITE SL

Body Mapping Technology: Our patented V-shaped design

delivers support and comfort no matter how you sleep – on your

side, stomach or back.

Klymalite Synthetic insulation: Lightweight, compressible and

durable, advanced synthetic insulation in the chambers slows the

transfer of air between the top and bottom halves of the pad for

improved thermal performance.

Side Rails: Integrated into the patterning and construction, they

provide a secure, comfortable sleep by centering you on the pad

and inhibiting air movement while tossing and turning.

Deep Weld Patterning: Unlike traditional pads that flatten the

bag’s fill, Deep Welds create expansion zones that allow your

bag to fully loft beneath you for improved thermal comfort.

Weight 454 g, Dimensions 183 x 51 x 6 cm, Packed

Dimensions18 x 11 cm, Shell Material 20D polyester, R-Value 4.4

RRP $279.95

WWW.RAB.EQUIPMENT

Macpac Olympus Alpine Tent

The Olympus is a two-person, four-season alpine tunnel tent with a

three-pole Multi-Pitch design. Perfect for snow camping, it’s got

dual entry points with a double door, internal mesh, DAC Featherlite

NSL poles, a spacious vestibule and snow flaps for keeping the

waterproof UV30 SI fly secure. The Torrentwear XP ‘tub’ floor

is seam sealed, while the fly requires manual seam sealing —

SilNet seam sealer is provided.Weight: 3.1 kg

RRP $1099.99

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

Macpac Sololight Hiking Tent

Macpac’s lightest three-season hiking tent, the single-person

Sololight is perfect for camping below the snowline. Easy to

set up with a Multi-Pitch design, it’s got a spacious vestibule,

internal mesh and air vents for increased airflow. The UV20 PE

fly and ripstop nylon ‘tub’ floor are waterproof and factory seam

sealed, while the DAC Featherlite NSL poles are light and strong.

Weight: 1.29 kg

RRP $599.99

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

exped SynMat UL Lite Sleeping Mat (Medium)

Provides comfort and warmth in a very lightweight and small

package. Anti-slip GripSkin coating, welded through baffle

construction. Comes with a Mini Pump UL for easy inflation

and pack sack. 183cm x 52cm. 390gm.

RRP $159.99

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

KIWI CAMping Rover Lite Self-Inflating Mat

Compressible foam core inflates/deflates with the

twist of a valve. Tapered mummy design fits in

most sleeping bags. Durable soft stretch fabric for

extra comfort. Weight: 900gm

RRP $99.99

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

exped Outer Space III Tent

2- to 3-person 3-season tent with multiple modes to adapt to the

conditions and personal preferences. Features a giant, polesupported

front vestibule that easily shelters 3 people in camp

chairs, a lightweight table and backpacks. 3.3kg

RRP $999.99

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

KIWI camping weka 3 Hiker Tent

Spacious three-person tent with double entrances with

vestibules and roof loft storage. Fits in a backpack, ideal for all

year-round hiking. 4000mm aqua rated fly. 3-year warranty.

RRP $349.00

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

exped DeepSleep Duo 7.5 LW+ Sleeping Mat

Luxurious sleeping mat with edge-to-edge, 3D comfort for a

couple and 7.5cm-thick open-cell foam for excellent support.

Brushed 75D fabric is quiet and soft against your skin. 4.5kg

RRP $469.99

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

KLYMIT STATIC V LUXE

Body Mapping Technology: Our patented V-shaped design

delivers support and comfort no matter how you sleep – on your

side, stomach or back. Side Rails: Integrated into the patterning

and construction, they provide a secure, comfortable sleep by

centering you on the pad and inhibiting air movement while tossing

and turning. Deep Weld Patterning: Unlike traditional pads that

flatten the bag’s fill, Deep Welds create expansion zones that allow

your bag to fully loft beneath you for improved thermal comfort.

Weight: 771 g, full size 193 x 76 x 8 cm, Packed Dimensions 20 x

11 cm, Material 75D polyester

RRP $259.95

WWW.RAB.EQUIPMENT

Marmot Catalyst 2P Tent

Designed as a roomy, livable tent that doesn't weigh you down,

the freestanding Catalyst 2-Person Tent has all the ideal features

for a casual camping trip. Its strategic clip placement offers more

interior volume for stretching out after a long day of adventuring. The

seam-taped catenary-cut floor and full-coverage vented fly add to its

weather protection, plus the included footprint protects this camping

tent from abrasions. Stash your pack, poles, and other gear in the

two vestibules and tuck a headlamp into the lampshade pocket for

ambient light at night.

RRP $399.95

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

Marmot Tungsten 3P Tent

Ready to adventure with you mile after mile, the freestanding

Tungsten 3-Person Tent blends durability, roominess and an

intuitively livable design. Strategic clip placement offers more

interior volume for stretching out after a long day on the mountain. If

a sudden downpour approaches, the color-coded "easy pitch" clips

and poles make for a quick set up, and the seam-taped catenarycut

floor and full-coverage vented fly add to its weather protection.

Dual doors allow easy entry and exit with vestibule storage space

around both doors.

RRP $599.00

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ


Marmot Never Winter Sleeping Bag

The Never Winter is an ideal summer

bag for camping and river trips, but it

also has enough water-resistant 650-fill

down insulation to keep you warm and

protected when frost is in the air.

EN Temperature Rating: Comfort 3.6°C

/ Lower Limit -1.7°C / Extreme -17.8°C

RRP $499.00

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

Macpac Epic HyperDRY Down 600 Sleeping Bag

A lightweight alpine sleeping bag, the mummy-shaped

Epic 600 features water-resistant 800 loft HyperDRY

RDS goose down and ultralight Pertex® Quantum

fabric. It has horizontal baffles, a laminated draft tube

and a down collar with a recessed drawcord. It comes

with a waterproof vacuum seal sack and large mesh

storage sack. Temperature Rating: comfort -5°C, limit

-12°C, extreme -32°C.

Weight: 1091 g (ISO 23537-1 tested and weighed STD

size)

RRP $899.99

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

Marmot Trestles 15 Sleeping Bag

The Trestles 15 is a reliable allpurpose

bag for everything from

weekend camping to days on the trail.

SpiraFil LT high loft insulation, wave

construction and 3D hood keep you

warm and comfortable, while a long

list of features gives you everything

you'd expect from 40 years of crafting

sleeping bags.

EN Temperature Rating: Comfort

-2.6°C / Lower Limit -8.9°C / Extreme

-27.2°C

RRP $199.95

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

Marmot Sawtooth Sleeping Bag

The ultimate all-around bag, the Sawtooth blends just

the right down warmth with just the right weight and a

healthy measure of durability for an industry-leading bag.

The Sawtooth now features a water-resistant down to

improve performance and warmth in wet conditions.

EN Temperature Rating: Comfort -6.4°C / Lower Limit

-13.3°C / Extreme -33.1°C

RRP $579.00

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

exped Lite +1 Down Sleeping Bag (Medium)

Lightweight bag made with fabrics that feel

velvety soft, a watertight construction and highperformance,

800-loft European goose down fill

for warmth and comfort during the night. 780gm.

RRP $499.99

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

Macpac Overland HyperDRY Down 400 Sleeping Bag

Featuring a water-resistant 650 loft HyperDRY RDS duck

down fill and lightweight Pertex® Quantum fabric, the tapered,

semi-rectangular Overland optimises warmth with horizontal

baffles, a down collar and a draft tube. It has a side zip and

dome closure, and comes with a waterproof vacuum seal sack

and large mesh storage sack. Temperature Rating: comfort

-1°C, limit -7°C, extreme -24°C.

Weight: 1079 g (ISO 23537-1 tested and weighed STD size)

RRP $549.99

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

RAB MYTHIC 200 SLEEPING BAG

The pinnacle of innovation, the Mythic

200 Sleeping bag is an ultra lightweight

down sleeping bag with the best

warmth to weight ratio in the Rab range.

Designed for mountain activists looking

to reduce weight while moving through

the mountains, for use in warmer

conditions where weight and packsize

are crucial to success, such as long

multi day routes or summer trekking.

Pertex® Quantum 10 Denier Inner and

Outer, 900FP R.D.S Certified European

Goose Down, Rab® Fluorocarbon

free Hydrophobic Down developed in

conjunction with Nikwax® Trapezoidal

baffle chamber design, Mummy taper

shape

Limit 1°C(34°F

Weight 475g

RRP $1099.95

WWW.RAB.EQUIPMENT

KIWI CAMping Fave Chair

Compact and lightweight camping and events chair.

Padded double-layer 400/600D polyester, sturdy

steel frame, adjustable arms, and cup holder.

Supplied with carry bag. Weight limit: 100kg.

RRP $79.99

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 77


patagonia Nine Trails Pack 20L

For moving quickly and comfortably and

perfect for extra layers, hydration and

essentials. U-shaped lid provides easy

access, while mono-mesh is the most

breathable Patagonia’s ever made, and the

padded harness/waistbelt keep your load

comfortably centred. 4.2-oz 210-denier

CORDURA® 100% nylon ripstop with a DWR

finish.

RRP $229.99

WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ

Lowe Alpine Altus 42:47 & ND 40:45

The Altus 42:47, a versatile four

season hiking backpack that provides

great load support and stability.

Features include: extendable lid,

base and side compression straps,

adjustable back length, forward pull

hip belt adjustment, U-shaped front

opening and internal zipped divider,

front stash with large zipped pocket,

large stretch mesh side pockets,

TipGripper walking pole attachments,

HeadLocker axe attachment system,

and daisy chain lash points.

RRP $439.95

WWW.OUTFITTER.CO.NZ

Lowe Alpine AirZone Camino Trek 30:40

The AirZone Camino Trek 30:40 is a

hiking backpack that keeps you cool and

comfortable, it is hydration compatible

including stretch water bottle side pockets,

an internal lid pocket, hip belt pockets,

TipGripper walking pole attachments, ice

axe loops, and double side compression for

stability. With top entry, zipped front panel,

and base entry with zipped divider panel for

easy access, an extendable lid increases

the volume by an extra 10 litres. Large

bellows side pockets provide additional

storage, and the versatile SpiderPlate

bungee system allows secure external

storage if required.

RRP $389.95

WWW.OUTFITTER.CO.NZ

Marmot PreCip ECO Rain Jacket

On the 20th anniversary of our best-selling

PreCip Rain Jacket, meet the environmentally

conscious and high-performing next generation:

the lightweight PreCip Eco Rain Jacket. The

waterproof / breathable, PFC-free Marmot

NanoPro recycled nylon face fabric lasts longer

than ever, thanks to the advanced technology of

our microporous coating. Sturdier, more durable

than ever, and with a patented dry-touch finish,

this packable water-repelling jacket that stuffs into

its own pocket will become an everyday piece

that you can feel good in and about.

RRP $199.95

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

RAB momentum shorts

From steep climbs up jagged peaks to

traversing ridges, the Momentum Shorts

are designed for covering greater distances

at pace. Made from lightweight but durable

Matrix double weave fabric they offer full

freedom of movement when hiking, running

or scrambling in the mountains. Treated

with a DWR these shorts will repel water

during light showers and dry quickly.

RRP $99.95

WWW.RAB.EQUIPMENT

Macpac Tempo Pertex® Rain Jacket

As a Pertex® Shield Air launch partner, Macpac is proud to introduce the

Tempo Rain Jacket — a lightweight, waterproof shell with an air permeable

‘electro-spun’ nanofiber membrane. Highly breathable, it has a seam sealed

Pertex® Shield Air 3-layer construction, a low-profile roll-away hood, a centre

zip with internal storm flap and dome tab, reflective detailing, a single-point hem

adjustment, thumb loops and a zipped chest pocket. The jacket packs into an

internal mesh pocket. Weight: 220 g (men’s size M) / 200 g (women’s size 10)

RRP $499.99

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

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Lowe Alpine Airzone Pro 35:45 and ND 33:40

The NEW AirZone Pro 35:45 & ND33:40 backpack delivers ventilation and comfort.Featuring

our award-winning, fully adjustable AirZone+ carry system, with patented FormKnit

technology for all-day comfort and breathability,SpiderPlate adjustable bungee system, side

mesh pockets and multiple compression straps, there’s plenty of scope to carry an external

jacket, roll mat, walking poles and axe. The AirZone Pro ND33:40 has a zipped side entry

which delivers direct access to the main compartment, an integrated rain cover, plus a largecapacity

top pocket, seven litres of expandable lid volume, forward pull hipbelt adjustment

with zipped hipbelt pockets, internally adjustable back-length, breathable harness and

hipbelt, HeadLocker axe attachment system, secure TipGripper walking pole attachments.

RRP $439.95

WWW.OUTFITTER.CO.NZ

patagonia Men's Cap Cool Trail Shirt

Patagonia's softest performance knit, it

keeps you cool and dry when you’re active,

while providing day-long, next-to-skin

comfort. It feels like cotton yet performs

with the wicking efficiency of polyester, plus

has HeiQ® Fresh durable odour control

and is Fair Trade Certified sewn.

RRP $69.99

WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ

RAB KINETIC PLUS JACKET

Designed with Kinetic, the Rab® innovation and

breakthrough in protection and flexibility, this jacket uses

our own Proflex fabric technology for maximum builtin

stretch. This allows incredible freedom of movement

when climbing and moving fast. With Kinetic, for the

first time, your outer protective shell clothing can have

unimpeded mobility as well as incredible comfort and

softness. Designed for day-long use in challenging,

changeable weather conditions, the Men's Kinetic Plus

Jacket has a waterproof component hidden inside: a

high performance, flexible membrane with a waterproof

measure of 10,000mm and an exceptional breathability

level in excess of 35,000cc/sqm/24hrs.

RRP $399.95

WWW.RAB.EQUIPMENT


TARGHEE III MID Men’s

Out of the box comfort for your outside the box adventures. Our

iconic hiking boot for men brings an updated look to all-terrain

adventures. We carried over the fit, durability, and performance

of our award-winning Targhee waterproof boot and took its

rugged looks to a new dimension. Key features: • KEEN.DRY - A

proprietary waterproof, breathable membrane that lets vapor out

without letting water in. • METATOMICAL FOOTBED DESIGN -

This internal support mechanism is anatomically engineered to

provide excellent arch support and cradle the natural contours of

the foot. Available: Key outdoor retailers across New Zealand.

RRP $319.99

WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ

anatom Q3 Braeriach Trekking Boot

Durable, comfortable boot for ambitious adventures with

waterproof/breathable tri.aria membrane and Interface One

lining. Cushioned midsole and Vibram® Soparis outer-sole.

RRP $429.99

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

salewa MOUNTAIN TRAINER LITE MID GORE-TEX®

The MTN Trainer Lite Mid GTX is a 3-season boot for

technical hikes, and long backpacking routes in all weathers.

Its highly wear-resistant TPU-coated fabric upper has suede

inserts for stability and a GORE-TEX® Comfort lining for

durable waterproof protection. For additional stability and

protection, there is a flexible ankle cuff, heel stabilizer and

rubber toe cap.

Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 565 g (W) 465 g

RRP $399.90

Awards: Outside Magazine's 2020 Gear of the Year Award

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/BRANDS/SALEWA

Featured

RRP $599.90

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/BRANDS/SALEWA

salewa RAVEN 3 GORE-TEX® WOMEN'S SHOES

Designed to make light work of tough alpine terrain in variable conditions. Our Raven 3

GORE-TEX® mountaineering boot has an abrasion-resistant fabric upper to offer exceptional

stability, durability and performance, all in a lightweight construction. Inside, the waterproof

and breathable GORE-TEX® Performance Comfort lining delivers optimized climate comfort

even in changing weather conditions. Outside, the protective rubber rand and external

TPU toe cap increase comfort and protection in the long run, outperforming conventional

constructions. The Vibram® WrapThread Combi sole offers optimal grip, traction and

surefootedness over rough, steep terrain without compromising on comfort, while the smooth

climbing zone at the toe promotes precise footwork. At the heart of the boot, the stiff nylon

carbon loaded fibreglass insole ensures good crampon compatibility, while the Bilight Midsole

is designed with material properties and an ergonomic shape to provide superior shock

absorption for the lifetime of the shoe. Flexibility, heel support and a precise blister-free fit

come courtesy of the SALEWA 3F System, 3D Lacing allows you to fine-tune at the toes and

midfoot, and the Multi Fit Footbed Plus (MFF+) with interchangeable layers gives you greater

customisation for your feet.

FEATURES

• 3D-Lacing

• 3F System

• Climbing Lacing

• MFF+ Footbed

• Vibram

• Gore-Tex

• Cleansport NXT ®

• Flex Collar

SPECIFICATIONS:

• Drop: 15 mm (Heel

Stack Height 35 mm

/ Toe

• Stack Height 20

mm)

• Weight: (M) 829 g

(W) 629 g - pictured

MATERIAL

• Insole: Stiff: Nylon

+ 27% Fiberglass /

Bilight

• Midsole / Crampon

Compatible

• Lining: GORE-

TEX® Performance

Comfort

• MIDSOLE: TPU

• Outsole: Vibram®

WTC

• Upper: Suede /

Protective rand

/ Highly wearresistant

fabric

SALEWA CROW GORE-TEX®

The Crow GTX is a versatile boot designed for mixed use on

general alpine terrain, featuring an abrasion-resistant fabric

upper with a GORE-TEX ® Performance Comfort lining, a

semi-automatic crampon-compatible Vibram ® New Mulaz

outsole, and a full rubber rand for protection against rock and

scree.

Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 675 g (W) 570 g

RRP $499.90

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/BRANDS/SALEWA

TARGHEE III MID woMen’s

The Targhee Boot is ready for any hike, anytime. Our

iconic hiking boot for women brings an updated look to allterrain

adventures. We carried over the fit, durability, and

performance of our award-winning Targhee waterproof boot

and took its rugged looks to a new dimension. Key features:

• KEEN.DRY - A proprietary waterproof, breathable membrane

that lets vapor out without letting water in.

• METATOMICAL FOOTBED DESIGN - This internal support

mechanism is anatomically engineered to provide excellent

arch support and cradle the natural contours of the foot.

Available: Key outdoor retailers across New Zealand.

RRP $319.99

WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ

MERRELL Moab 2 Mid - Men’s

Worn the world over. The Moab has been the world’s

best-selling hiking boots for over a decade. The

reasons are clear. Famous out-of-the-box comfort

and all-purpose versatility make it the choice of hikers

around the world.

RRP $279.00

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ

salewa MOUNTAIN TRAINER LITE MID GORE-TEX®

Our MTN Trainer Mid GTX is a lightweight alpine trekking

boot with a suede leather upper and a waterproof breathable

GORE-TEX® Performance Comfort lining. At the ankle, the

Flex Collar allows natural movement and the 3F System

provides flexibility, support and a blister-free fit. Underfoot we

feature a dual-density Bilight TPU midsole and a Vibram®

WTC outsole. Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 700 g (W) 570 g

RRP $499.90

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/BRANDS/SALEWALABORESTRUM


Hoka One One Challenger Mid

The Challenger Mid GORE-TEX®

delivers on every surface from trail to

road. It features a waterproof Nubuck

leather upper for a clean look and

an anatomical mid-cut collar for

support. It also features a GORE-

TEX® waterproof bootie to keep

your feet dry in a variety of

seasons.

RRP $399.95

WWW.HOKAONEONE.CO.NZ

Hoka One One Kaha GTX

Named for the Māori word for

strength and support, the Kaha

GTX delivers both. With surprising

speed, it makes the ups easier and

the downs quicker. When hiking over

long distances, this trekking shoe will

deliver you to your destination in

comfort and safety.

RRP $499.00

WWW.HOKAONEONE.CO.NZ

SUBSCRIBE

AND BE IN THE DRAW TO WIN ONE OF FIVE

TAIAO THERMOS TRAVEL FLASKS

YOU WILL HAVE NOTICED THIS NEW BRANDING

IN ADVENTURE ‘TAIAO’

TAIAO MEANS IN MAORI; NATURAL WORLD,

ENVIRONMENT, NATURE, COUNTRY. AS WE

FOCUS MORE INWARDLY IN NEW ZEALAND WE

HAVE DECIDED TO DEVELOP A BRAND THAT

REFLECTS THAT; THAT IS REFLECTIVE OUR

WORLD, OUR COUNTRY OUR ENVIRONMENT.

SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER 2 GORE-TEX ®

The MTN Trainer 2 is the perfect alpine approach solution for

technical hikes. This hard-wearing and versatile low-cut shoe

has a high-quality 1.6-millimetre suede leather upper, a GORE-

TEX® Extended Comfort lining, full protective rubber rand for

360° abrasion resistance in rocky terrain and a Vibram MTN

Trainer EVO outsole.

Fit: Standard / Weight: (M) 458 g (W) 396 g 4 g

RRP $399.90

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/BRANDS/SALEWA

THE PRODUCTS WILL BE BEAUTIFUL AND

PRACTICAL, THIS IS ONE OF OUR FIRST

PRODUCTS THE TAIAO FLASK

NOT EVERYONE WANTS A SIPPY CUP – IF YOU

PUT THEM IN YOUR PACK IT IS BOUND TO LEAK.

BUT THESE 500ML THESE STAINLESS TAIAO

THERMOS FLASKS ARE THE PERFECT TRAVEL

COMPANION. THEY WILL KEEP WHATEVER

YOU PUT INSIDE HOT OR COLD FOR HOURS.

WE ADDED A LITTLE EXTRA FILTER CHAMBER

WHERE YOU CAN ADD YOUR OWN BEVERAGE

AND EASILY REMOVE IT. THEY COME IN A

RANGE OF COLOURS AND WILL ONLY BE

AVAILABLE ONLINE.

THESE ARE NOT AVAILABLE TO BUY YET – BUT

THEY WILL BE SOON.

TO SUBSCRIBE VISIT

WWW.ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ

Chaco Odyssey Sandal

Overcome rivers, trails, and expectations. The allterrain,

closed-toe Odyssey sport sandal delivers the

durability of a hiker, the freedom of a barefoot trainer,

and the performance you need from land to water.

RRP $179.95

WWW.CHACOS.CO.NZ

Chaco Z/CLOUD Sandal

Want your Classic Sandals with pillow-top comfort?

Introducing our travel-ready Z/Cloud series, featuring

our same custom adjustable strap system, performance

ChacoGripTM rubber outsole, and a top layer of ultra-soft

PU for instant-cushion underfoot.

RRP $159.95

WWW.CHACOS.CO.NZ

MERRELL Nova 2 - Men’s

Featuring lightweight comfort and hiker-like durability,

Nova 2 is built to take you places sneakers can’t.

Crush Trails Not Treadmills.

RRP $249.00

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ

MERRELL Antora 2 - Women’s

Featuring lightweight comfort and confidence-boosting

support and traction, Antora 2 is uniquely tailored

to women ready to go places sneakers can’t. Burn

Daylight Not Calories.

RRP $189.00

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ


Papua NewGuinea

Reach for the remote

2020 has made us all appreciate what’s in our own backyard -

we’ve had to due to border restrictions preventing us from going

anywhere else! As the world starts to slowly reopen, and as

travellers make more conscious decisions about where they want

to travel to next, we want to pose a question to you - why is it that

Australia’s closest neighbour, a mere 150km to the north of Cape

York, is so mysterious to us and so often overlooked. We bet you

didn’t know that Papua New Guinea was that close, nor that it is

home to over 8 million people who speak more than 800 different

languages. As one of the most culturally diverse countries in the

world, we should count ourselves lucky to have all of this rich

culture right on our doorstep. Add to that an incredibly untouched

natural paradise, paired with adventures only your wildest dreams

could think up. So, as we all rethink our travel plans in a post-

COVID world, we present to you 10 reasons why you should add

Papua New Guinea to your 2021 bucket list.

1

2 3

GET YOUR HEAD

IN THE CLOUDS

Mount Wilhelm

REACH FOR THE REMOTE

CLIMB ONE OF THE SEVEN SUMMITS

As the world starts to slowly reopen, and as travellers make more conscious

decisions about where they want to travel to next, we pose the following

question – how about travelling to Australia’s closest neighbour, a mere

150km to the north of Cape York?

Remote natural beauty and rich diverse culture abounds right on your

doorstep. Have you added Papua New Guinea to your 2021 bucket list yet?

1. ESCAPE FROM IT ALL ON A REMOTE PRIVATE ISLAND

The Conflict Islands are made up of 21 privately owned,

pristine and completely uninhabited islands covering a

total landmass of 375 hectares (or 3.75km square). At the

Conflict Islands Resort you’ll find just six private beachfront

ensuite bungalows, situated on the main island of Panasesa.

There’s also a main house where guests can enjoy peace

and tranquility whilst enjoying delicious fresh-caught local

food, refreshing drinks, free wi-fi (if you want it), a stunning

beachfront deck and a balcony overlooking the stunning

archipelago and lagoon waters, with colours like no other

place on earth. There aren’t many places in the world where

you can truly escape in paradise quite like this.

2. TREK OCEANIA`S HIGHEST VOLCANO

Papua New Guinea’s second highest mountain, Mount

Giluwe (4,367m), is part of a volcanic massif. The original

volcano on the site of Mount Giluwe formed roughly

650,000–800,000 years ago, probably as a stratovolcano

of similar height to the current peak. One of the Volcanic

Seven Summits of the world, the usually five-day trek passes

through vast grassland and alpine landscapes.

3. DISCOVER PNG’S COLOURFUL COASTAL CULTURE

Divers and snorkellers have been coming to Milne Bay

and the Tufi Fjords (yes Papua New Guinea has its own

fjords!) for decades, but culture-seekers have only recently

cottoned on to this unique part of the world. Alotau is the

capital of the Milne Bay region, and plays host to the annual

Kenu and Kundu Festival each November - a lively and

colourful cultural display of war canoe racing and ‘singsings’

(traditional dances). Year-round you can discover harrowing

skull caves, and can also learn to cook (and enjoy) a Mumu

feast (a traditional meal of local produce cooked in the earth).

Up the coast in Oro Province are the Tufi Fjords, home to the

world’s largest butterfly (the Queen Alexandra Bird Wing; with

wingspans of up to 28cm). Visitor participation in traditional

daily life is welcomed by the local villagers, who will happily

show travellers how to build traditional homes and canoes

from sago palms, and how to hunt and gather for food.

Check out Alotau International Resort, Driftwood

Resort, Tawali Leisure & Dive Resort and Tufi Resort for

accommodation and tours. Or book through Travel & Co and

they’ll organise it all for you.

Find your remote at www.papuanewguinea.travel

No Roads Expeditions, Paiya Tours, PNG Holidays and Trans

Niugini Tours all offer guided treks.

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 85


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Milne Bay Kenu and Kundu Festival


4

5

7. CLIMB ONE OF THE SEVEN SUMMITS

At 4,509m, Mount Wilhelm is not only

the highest mountain in Papua New

Guinea, but is also the highest point in

all of Oceania. Despite its height, Mount

Wilhelm is actually the country’s most

accessible mountain to climb. Usually

a 3-4 day hike (accessible from Mount

Hagen) including overnight stays at camps

/ villages along the way, the expedition will

find you crossing rivers, climbing through

moss forests, alpine grasslands and glacial

valleys. Generally trekkers summit before

sunrise to truly enjoy the view out to the

north coast and surrounding valleys, and if

you’re lucky enough you might even get to

spot a beautiful bird of paradise too.

6

Buna Treks & Tours, Escape Trekking

Adventures, No Roads Expeditions,

PNG Highland Adventures and PNG

Trekking Adventures all offer guided treks,

incorporating stays at Betty’s Lodge.

8. EXPLORE AUSTRALIA’S CLOSEST

NEIGHBOUR BY SHIP

Prior to COVID, Papua New Guinea was

fast becoming one of Australia’s and

New Zealand’s fastest growing cruise

destinations; featuring on the schedules

of large-ship brands like Carnival, Cunard,

P&O, Princess and Silversea, as well as

small expedition-ship brands like Coral

Expeditions, Heritage Expeditions, Linblad

Expeditions and True North.

9. A RITE OF PASSAGE

Trekking world-famous Kokoda is not only

a 96km physical endurance challenge,

it’s also a spiritual journey retracing the

footsteps of the thousands of Aussie

Diggers who were killed or injured

defending Australia. Tours range from

6-12 days based on speed and fitness

levels, and trekkers can also choose to

trek from Poppendetta to Owers Corner

or trek the reverse route. It is worth noting

that Australia’s wartime history with Papua

New Guinea extends beyond just the battle

of Kokoda; the battle of Milne Bay was

another key feat in Australia’s efforts to

protect its sovereignty from the invading

Japanese during WWII. 2020 marks the

75th anniversary of the end of the war in

the Pacific, and the allied forces win. While

international travel has prevented many

from commemorating the anniversary this

year, they remain committed to ensuring

this important part of history is still

remembered (albeit a year later).

See Kokoda Track Authority for a full listing

of trek operators running guided tours. If

you are not keen on trekking Kokoda, but

still wish to pay your respects, then a visit to

the Bita Paka War Cemetery near Rabaul,

and the Bomana War Cemetery in Port

Moresby is a must.

10. CATCH AN ILLUSIVE BLACK BASS

OR DOGTOOTH TUNA

Papua New Guinea’s untouched rivers

and lakes, and isolated coastal waters,

offer some of the best lures in the world.

From the challenge of catching a ‘lure shy’

Papua New Guinea Black Bass in remote

rainforest- lined rivers, to showing off a

prized Dogtooth Tuna or Marlin catch out

at sea, Papua New Guinea has got to be

on the bucket list of all fishing enthusiasts.

And with 2020 being a write-off, the fishing

stocks have had a year to fully replenish -

2021 is set to be the biggest and best year

for fishing.

Check out Baia Sportfishing Lodge,

Bensbach Wildlife Lodge, Lake Murray

Lodge, Liamo Reef Resort and Uluai Island

Bungalows for accommodation and tours.

Or check out one of the fishing liveaboards,

MV K20 or MV Ultimate One. For organised

guided tours check out Angling Adventures.

And that’s just a few of the million different

journeys available within Papua New

Guinea. Find your own adventure at

www.papuanewguinea.travel

4. ADVENTURE ACROSS REMOTE

ISLANDS

New Britain and New Ireland islands in

the Bismarck Sea are popular with divers,

surfers, history buffs and adventure

seekers alike. These two easy-to-get-to

islands are perfect for first-time visitors to

Papua New Guinea. In West New Britain

Province (accessible by flight to Kimbe) you

can hike to the top of the active Gabuna

Volcano crater, relax in a natural spa-like

thermal hot river or visit the local firefly

trees at night and see the rainforest light

up. At the other end of the island in East

New Britain Province (accessible by flight

to Rabaul), a world of history awaits; from

hidden Japanese WWII war tunnels and

Admiral Yamamoto’s famed buker, to the

ash-covered remains of old Rabaul town

(destroyed by the nearby Mount Tavurvur

volcanic eruption of 1937). And over

on New Ireland (accessible for flight to

Kavieng) you can go on a 5-day cycling

adventure, travelling down the length of

the 260km mostly-flat Bulominski Highway,

stopping to rest at traditional village

homestays along the way.

Check out Walindi Plantation Resort

near Kimbe, Kokopo Beach Bungalow

Resort and Rapopo Plantation Resort

near Rabaul, and Lissenung Island Resort

and Nusa Island Retreat near Kavieng for

accommodation and tours. Or experience

the Fire Dance Festival whilst you’re in

Rabaul with Intrepid.

5. DISCOVER HIDDEN HIGHLAND

TRIBES

Mount Hagen and Goroka are the main

tourism hubs within the remote highlands of

Papua New Guinea. From here, a colourful

world awaits, brimming with illusive tribes

that still to today remain mostly hidden from

the rest of the world. Visit Goroka and you’ll

be met with an array of coffee and cocoa

(chocolate) plantations; the rich aroma filling

the air. But scratch beneath the surface and

you’ll discover unique local tribes where

traditional customs remain alive and well;

like the haunting Asaro Mudmen famed for

their spooky mud masks, and the Korekore

Tribe who are best known for their Moko

Moko (or ‘sex’ dance). Over in Mount

Hagen, which plays host to one the oldest

and most spectacular cultural shows, the

annual Hagen Cultural Show, you’ll also

discover the Diugl Village and the spooky

Mindima Skeleton Dancers, as well as the

nearby colourful Huli Wigmen.

Check out Ambua Lodge, Bird Of Paradise

Hotel & Apartments, Highlander Hotel

& Apartments and Rondon Ridge for

accommodation and tours, or go on a

scheduled guided tour with Crooked

Compass, Eclipse Travel or PNG Holidays.

Or to journey further into hard-to-reach lost

worlds check out Oceania Expeditions.

6. GO ON A SURFING PILGRIMAGE

Forget Bali with its overcrowded beaches;

thanks to Papua New Guinea’s worldrenowned

Surf Management Plan, the

number of surfers on any one break is

capped, so you’ll never be stuck waiting

to catch the perfect wave - plus locals are

still able to surf their own breaks. Surfing

is idolised in Papua New Guinea, as are

visiting pro surfers. You’ll be just as likely to

see locals surfing on hand-carved planks

of timber, as you will Taylor Jensen (who

won the 2017 Men’s Kumul PNG World

Longboard Championships). Or even no

one at all! And when you’re done surfing,

there’s plenty of islands, waterfalls, caves

and volcanoes to explore. The north coast

of Papua New Guinea is our pick for keen

surfers (it’s also a fishing and diving /

snorkelling paradise too). Stretching for

over 500km, the northern coastline of

Papua New Guinea’s mainland is as chilledout

as it comes. Here you’ll find sleepy port

towns and seaside villages (like Vanimo,

Wewak and Madang) that offer the perfect

respite for those who’ve just adventured to

the nearby highlands or Sepik River. Spend

the day paddling across aqua-clear waters

to nearby deserted islands, explore local

caves and waterfalls, or tuck into some

fresh locally-caught seafood.

Check out Tupira Surf Club and Vanimo

Surf Lodge, or go on a scheduled guided

tour with World Surfaris or No Limit

Adventures. Other notable mentions for

keen surfers include Nusa Island Retreat

and Rubio Retreat, both in New Ireland

province.

88//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 89

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Camping Koueney Chez Loulou et Lelene © Marine Reveilhac

Camping in NewCaledonia

Aguide to...

Notchup © Drones.nc / NCTPS

Like many of its South Pacific island counterparts,

New Caledonia is home to a range of

spectacular hotels and resorts, complete with

lush accommodations, postcard perfect pools,

world class restaurants and more. However, for

adventurous travellers looking to get off the beaten

track or explore the destination like a local, New

Caledonia is also surprisingly great for camping.

Despite being a relatively small land mass (when

compared to somewhere like New Zealand), New

Caledonia is brimming with spots to pitch a tent,

and plenty of experiences to have along the way.

Here’s a 101 to camping in New Caledonia. Firstly,

the fun part: picking a campsite!

WHERE TO STAY:

When it comes to camping in New Caledonia,

there are campsites on the beach, in the forest,

in the bush…you name it. Here are five fantastic

options to consider:

CAMPING KOUÉNEY CHEZ LOULOU ET LÉLÉNE

This campsite is situated on the Isle of Pines, in a tuckedaway,

peaceful park overlooking Kouéney Beach. It’s

run by Jean-Louis and Hélène Josse, and campers are

welcome to cook their own meals or have them provided

by the Josse family, who cook over an open fire using local

produce. Jean-Louis and Hélène also offer transfers to and

from the Isle of Pines airport.

Address: Plage de Kouéney, Île des Pins, 98832

Tel: +687 78 32 28

#NewCalPulse

NEWCALEDONIA.TRAVEL

90//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 91


Kayaking at Hienghène © Marine Reveilhac

Îlot Tenia sunset © Valérie Blondin

Le rêve de Némo © JC Robert

Van-Away offers campervans and minibuses for hire @ Van-Away

Caledonie

Gîte Iya at Yaté © Oneye Production

BABOU CÔTÉ OCEAN

Located in the Koulnoue Kanak tribal village,

on New Caledonia’s north-east coast, the

Babou Côté Ocean campsite offers travellers

striking views of the north’s rainforests and

UNESCO World Heritage Listed lagoons,

as well as a wide range of activities – such

as kayaking, diving, snorkelling, hiking

and more. The campsite also has camping

equipment available for hire.

Address: Hienghène, Le Koulnoué, 98815

Tel: +687 42 83 59

WILD CAMPING ON ÎLOT TÉNIA

This is one for the adventurous traveller!

Îlot Ténia is a small island located off

Boulouparis, on New Caledonia’s West

Coast, in the midst of some of the most

striking parts of the destination’s UNESCO

World Heritage listed lagoon. The island

is available to visit for the day, but also to

camp overnight. It’s more of a “wilderness”

experience than other sites - campers will

need to bring all equipment, including wood

for a fire and food to cook – however, the

views over the lagoon are unmatched.

Transfers to the island and camping are

bookable through taxi boat company, Bout

d’Brousse.

Address: Boulouparis, Ouenghi, 98812

Tel: +687 76 42 38

LE RÊVE DE NEMO

Le rêve de Nemo camping site is situated at

Poé Beach, on New Caledonia’s west coast,

nearby to Bourail. It sits opposite the lagoon,

and offers striking sunset views set to the

soothing sounds of crashing waves. There

is also an onsite snack bar and comforts

such as large and clean toilets and showers.

Travellers also have the option of renting

accommodation, such as Sahara tents.

Address: Bourail, Poé, 98870

Tel: +687 46 44 64

GÎTE IYA

This campsite is situated within the

Touaourou Kanak tribe, nestled amongst

palm trees on the lagoon shores. Gîte Iya

has a great ‘table d’hôte’ (which is the name

given to family-run or local-run restaurants),

offering visitors the chance to taste New

Caledonian specialities and seafood. There

is also the option to visit a nearby farm and

for those travelling without camping gear,

there are furnished cabins available for hire.

Address: Tribu de Touaourou, Yaté, 98834

Tel: +687 46 90 80

THE EQUIPMENT:

While New Caledonia’s international airline, Aircalin,

has great policies for bulky luggage and sporting

equipment, it’s understandable that travellers may not

want to haul camping gear all the way overseas.

Luckily, there are a few options. In capital city,

Noumea, sporting goods store Decathlon sells all

equipment needed for camping, as well as activities

travellers may want to enjoy while in the great

outdoors, like hiking, biking and more.

There are also options to hire equipment, if preferred.

Companies like Tour Du Monde will hire out tents

and bedding. Some campsites may even have gear

available for hire. Another option is to book a guided

tour or experience, where equipment is supplied. For

example, Gecko Evasion runs overnight camping

experiences on New Caledonia’s West Coast, and all

equipment and meals are included in the experience

cost.

GETTING AROUND:

New Caledonia’s roads are well paved and

maintained, making driving around the destination’s

Grande Terre, or main island, easy.

Hire cars are available to pick up upon arrival into

New Caledonia’s international airport, in Noumea, the

territory’s capital city, and at a handful of spots across

its main island. It’s recommended travellers book a

hire car in advance – while a cosmopolitan destination,

New Caledonia is smaller than New Zealand and there

are fewer hire cars available.

In exciting news for adventurous travellers, New

Caledonia last year saw the launch of its first camper

van hire company. Van-Away offers both campervans

and minibuses for hire, just outside of Noumea.

If looking to camp on the Loyalty Islands or Isle

of Pines, travellers will need to book a flight with

domestic airline, Air Caledonie - both are just a short

distance from Noumea. The Isle of Pines is also

accessible via ferry (Ferry Betico); the crossing takes

about three hours.

A few final must-knows:

• Travellers are advised to stay only in designated

campsites

• Booking in advance is required for the majority of

campsites

• Travellers are advised to be mindful of local tribes

and customs – when visiting a tribe, it’s respectful

to ask permission first and to do a coutume, or

the presentation of a gift. Travellers should pay

attention if they think they’ll be going into any

tribal areas, and are recommended to contact a

local guide or the local tourism office to organise

a coutume.

newcaledonia.travel

92//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 93


Top Hikes on the Outer Islands of Vanuatu

Vanuatu’s outer islands offer more than just world-renowned snorkelling, remote beaches and

palm trees, they’re home to some of the most spectacular, adrenaline-pumping treks in the

Pacific Islands. So grab your hiking boots and get ready for an adventure you’ll never forget.

Manbush Trail - Malekula

This four-day hike will take you from the

east of Malekula to the west, hiking over

lush and mountainous terrain, into remote

island villages, and through farmland

and rivers. Make sure you pack suitable

wet weather gear for this hike and sturdy

waterproof hiking boots or hiking sandles.

The last thing you want is wet socks for

four days! There will be guides to carry your

backpack. On day one, you’ll hike 1.5-2

hours from Unua to the dense bushland in

Melken, ascending only 10m, easy!

On day two, you’ll hike for 7 hours from

Melken to Mt Laimbele, ascending

650m and descending 170m. From

this breathtaking rainforest you’ll get a

glimpse of the volcanoes on Ambrym, a

neighbouring island. You’ll likely spend the

evening eating bush-tucker around a fire,

before retiring to your mat on the floor of a

handmade bush hut.

On day three, expect another 8-hours of

walking from Mt Laimbele to Lebongbong,

with similar terrain to the day before. Keep

your eyes peeled for wild cattle and birdlife.

You’ll be treated to seasonal bush food,

likely nesowong, which is a meal made from

bush banana, water taro and coconut milk.

On the final day, day four, you’ll hike 9-10

hours. It’s a day of descent (1140m!), so get

those hiking poles and knees ready. You’ll

pass by several banyan trees - giants of the

forests, with roots that envelop their trunks.

You’ll also see a giant waterfall, explore

a spring in a cave and visit a nakamal (a

traditional meeting place) before bunkering

down in the village of Yawa for a shower

and a comfortable bed.

A ni-Vanuatu tour guide and tourist walks across a river, Malakula Island,

Malampa province, Vanuatu. Photo: Vanuatu Tourism Office/We Are Explorers

Dogs Head Trail - Malekula

This three-day coast-to-coast traverse through

wild bushland extends from the north east to the

north west of Malekula Island. It’s a strenuous

hike, but a rewarding one. You’ll have the unique

opportunity to be introduced to the Big Nambas

territories and be totally removed from the modern

world that you’re used to. Don’t expect electricity

and flushing toilets, expect huge smiles and

generous spirits. Revel in the villages built almost

entirely from bamboo and palm thatch. At the end

of the three-day trek, jump into the Pacific Ocean

to cool off on Malekula’s west.

vanuatu.travel

Musicians plays traditional music for Pitin Mask dancers, Malekula Island,

Malampa province, Vanuatu. Photo: Vanuatu Tourism Office/We Are Explorers

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 95


A couple views the crater of Mount Yasur volcano at dusk, Tanna Island, Vanuatu.

Lake Letas & Mt Garet - Gaua

On the island of Gaua lies one of Vanuatu’s

most remote and active volcanoes. This threeday

adventure involves crossing Lake Letas in

a rigger canoe before a steep, exposed climb

up to the rim of Mt Garet. It’s only an hour up

to the top, but it’s a difficult one, so get your

walking sticks ready and keep your feet firmly

on the path despite moments of terror.

You’ll have the opportunity to camp in small

bungalows at Victor’s Camp, right on the lake.

Victor’s a vivacious and jovial character who’ll

tell you stories under dim lamplight, share

shells and shells of kava (watch out!) and,

together with his wife, feed you until you’re as

full as can be.

On the hike back down, you’ll visit Vanuatu’s

highest waterfall, Siri Waterfall, which boasts

a 120m drop. This is a wet walk, so make sure

you’ve got sturdy hiking sandals or boots.

Vanuatu hopes that Lake Letas becomes a

Unesco world heritage site.

Mount Yasur - Tanna

From an active volcano to the world’s largest banyan tree, this is an

unmissable three-day trek on Tanna island in the Tafea province. Tanna

island people are bare-foot walkers, and will guide you from natural hot

springs surrounded by overgrown rainforest to white-sand beaches with

pounding surf and volcanic black-sand planes.

From the base to the summit of Mt Yasur is an easy to moderate 3.5-hour

round trip on foot across expansive ash plains. While there is an option to

drive, we really encourage the hike! This is best done at night as you’ll have

the opportunity to witness the red glow of lava under a dark night sky.

Mt Yasur is one of Vanuatu’s most dramatic booming visitor attractions –

the volcano is a female deity and she is revered by the people of Tanna

Island with many cultural stories revolving around her power. As such

visitors walking up the volcano pay an entrance fee that is shared with the

community. For more information visit or chat with the good folks at Entani

who manage the volcano visits.

Nguna Full Day Adventure - Nguna

If you’ve got a few days in Port Vila, the hike

up Nguna island’s highest extinct volcano (Mt

Taputaora, 593m) is a must-do. You’ll need to

catch a ride from your accommodation on Port

Vila to Emua Wharf before catching a boat over

to Nguna in order to start this hike.

It begins slowly, with a gradual incline, passing

through small villages with children who will run

out to greet you. The final leg is hard, and steep.

You’ll be exposed to the sun and it’ll be hot. Make

sure to wear a hat!

As you summit the volcano, you’ll be treated to

expansive views across the Shepherd Islands to

the north, and south to Efate. Afterwards you’ll be

offered a buffet lunch by the beach and a snorkel

along the Nguna coastline to cool off.

Aerial view of Nguna Island, Shefa Province, Vanuatu. Photo: Vanuatu Tourism Office/Nicolas Jupille & Louise Levrat

For more information on amazing Hikes in Vanuatu

www.vanuatu.travel or www.vanuatuecotours.com

A ni-Vanuatu chief and tourist on the Mount Garet volcano hike, Gaua Island, Torba province, Vanuatu.

Photo: Vanuatu Tourism Office/We Are Explorers

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 97


A C T I V E

a d v e n t u r e

THE TROUT HOUSE

39 South Ski Lodge Share

A rare opportunity to own a share in a unique ski lodge situated in the heart of Ohakuni. 39

South Lodge is a privately owned ski lodge and is for the exclusive use of its 100 shareholders,

and family members. The lodge is very comfortable and well-appointed and is run in a similar

manner to a ski club, but with each member owning a share.

Central to the culture and successful functioning of the lodge is the concept of communal

living with most facilities being shared. It is family orientated and can accommodate around

35 people at any one time. It is open all year round and can be booked at any time, using a

member only booking system.

Ideally suited for skiing on Mount Ruapehu in winter and adventures around the central

plateau all year round. See the website: 39southlodge.co.nz and facebook page.

Offers for this share, which gives long term access to the ski club and lodge $6000 ono.

Contact Malcolm Beaumont

e: malcolmbeaumont@gmail.com

p: 027 838 9978.

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Enjoy All Press coffee,

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Enjoy a relaxing

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Or, if in a rush, grab some

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4/4 Buckingham Street, Arrowtown

p: 03 442 0227 e: unwind_cafe@hotmail.com

www.unwindcafe.co.nz

Tasman Glacier Heli Skiing

Exclusive heli skiing at the head of NZ’s

biggest glacier. Tick off your bucket list

with a four-run Tasman Glacier Heli Ski

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Heli hiking also available.

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