N E W Z E A L A N D
INTO THE WILD
EXPLORING OUR BACKYARD
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FOR THE ADVENTURE
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EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER
Mob: 027 577 5014
The next person who tells me that they
have really enjoyed lockdown, and that
COVID has been like a forced holiday, is
going to wish that they hadn’t. We have
seen millions of dollars evaporate and the
adventure industry struggle to cope.
Travel businesses that have been a
backbone of New Zealand tourism have
closed and many folded for good. Many
people have lost their jobs or feel that they
could at any moment. Sure we have to
learn to live with it; really there is little we
can do except follow the rules and keep
our country as safe as we can, but also we
need to recognize that it is stressful, and
for many that stress is bringing them to
You might not be able to make your job
more secure, you might not be able to
travel or have that wedding or keep your
aged parents safe but there is something
you can do to help deal with the stress.
Here is the quick fix, ‘get outdoors’
Open the door: It has been clinically
proven that the simple process of getting
outside, actually outside anywhere, helps
lower stress levels. If you add into that
exercise and New Zealand’s glorious
environment, be that beach, mountains or
bush, it is going to help.
Buy a dog: Apart from the companionship,
the days when you don’t want to go for a
walk there will be a fluffy face to remind you
of the value of it, sunshine or rain.
Rein in your digital life: When you are
outside, leave your phone at home if you
can. On longer trips, if you feel you need to
take it, turn it off and put it at the bottom of
your pack. Everything can wait.
Do one thing at a time: Multi-tasking is a
myth, if you are walking, walk. If you are
talking, talk. If you are writing the next great
New Zeland novel or cleaning the garage
- do that.
Get dirt under your fingernails: Having
your hands in soil has proven to be good
for you, it’s good for your microbiome
(whatever that is) and that in turn has
proven good for your mood. Plant a
tree, pull out some weeds, grow some
Sleep outside: By the pool or in a tent
does not really matter. Could be an all-night
trip or a snooze in the afternoon but the
important part is that it is outside and that
Steve Dickinson - Editor
Ovato, Ph (09) 979 3000
OTHER PUBLICATIONS (HARDCOPY AND ONLINE)
NZ Adventure Magazine is published six times a year by:
Pacific Media Ltd, P.O.Box 562
Whangaparaoa, New Zealand
adventurejobs.co.nz | adventuretraveller.co.nz
Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must be accompanied by a stamped
self-addressed envelope. Photographic material should be on slide, although good quality
prints may be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility accepted for submitted
material. All work published may be used on our website. Material in this publication may
not be reproduced without permission. While the publishers have taken all reasonable
precautions and made all reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of material in this
publication, it is a condition of purchase of this magazine that the publisher does not assume
any responsibility or liability for loss or damage which may result from any inaccuracy
or omission in this publication, or from the use of information contained herein and the
publishers make no warranties, expressed or implied, with respect to any of the material
Image by Dylan Foote Image by Mike Dawson Image compliments of Aspiring Guides
Image by Expedition Earth
New Zealand's Matterhorn
Exploring New Zealand
A Kiwi's bucket list tramping experience
Documenting the circumnavigation of the Island
Hot water beach, Te Ariki Bay, Mt Tarawera
40//Planning your summer tramp
With Mountain Safety Council
42//Saving the Mountain Guides
Tongariro Alpine Crossing
60//Vote the arsehole out
The rise of the political and environmentally aware
66//Adventure Van Life
Forget the Mercedes, I wanna be a vanlife lady
• Papua New Guinea
• New Caledonia
72. gear guides
96. active adventure
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BEHIND THE COVER
As Steve says in his editorial, "It has been clinically proven that the
simple process of getting outside, actually outside anywhere, helps lower
stress levels." We felt this picture by Joel & Jasmin @theforestbirds,
captured the feeling perfectly.
COCKTAIL ON THE ROCK
Trek, explore, climb, learn, upskill and adventure your way
to new heights this summer with the AC Team.
• Alpine Adventure – 4 days
• Mt Aspiring, Course & Ascent
• Aoraki Mt Cook
• Mt Madeline, Brewster, French, Barth, Mitre Peak
• First Tracks Wanaka Geo Domes Heli Camp
• Remarkables Guided Climbing, Trekking
• Brewster Glacier, Gillespie Pass
• Luxury Backcountry Trek
• 7,10,12 day Mountaineering Instruction Courses
• 3 day Technical Rope Skills Course
This recipe was a similar
template to the Kiwi Birdsong
that was enjoyed so much.
Made with Two Tone release,
it is a gold medal winning NZ
whisk(e)y. Two Tone refers to
the two kinds of casks used to
mature the whisky, European
oak and American white oak. It
is 40% ABV with no colouring
added. The fruity and spicy
notes made this whisky the
perfect companion to the
tangelo liqueur, which is made
by distilling tree ripened local
tangelos and NZ pure spring
water. A smooth, luxurious,
and sumptuous serve.
2 jigger (60mls)
@thomsonwhisky Two Tone
20mls Te Kiwi Tangelo liqueur
20mls freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 dashes Angostura bitters
Reverse shake, by shaking all ingredients except the egg white with
ice, dump out the ice, add in the egg white, shake, and pour into a
#glassfromthehospiceshop, and garnish with a dehydrated lemon
Approx 6g carb per serve
Follow Sue on Instagram: @cocktailontherock
To sign up for the weekly newsletter: www.cocktailontherock.co.nz
70,000 followers can't be wrong
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06//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222
@ adventuretraveller @ adventurevanlifenz
By Derek Cheng
Climbing ropeless up a steep snow and ice
face is never enhanced by mental images of
your helpless body falling to its death.
High on the vertiginous slopes of Mt Aspiring,
the only thing keeping me from this fate were
the front points of my crampons and my two
ice axes. I was calm and focused, but could
do nothing to stop these mental flashes of
my flailing body being gobbled up by white
oblivion. The face wasn't steep enough to worry
an accomplished alpinist, but in the absence
of such skill, competence, and general good
looks, the 40 to 50 degree-slope was more
than enough to unsettle me.
08//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222
Sunrise on Mt Aspiring
"Mt Aspiring, New
is an aesthetic pyramid
of splendor that masks
a malevolent side that
can emerge suddenly
and swallow anyone
trying to scale her
A hard kick of the crampons. A
strong strike of the ice axe. After
a dozen or so movements, I
paused to gather my composure,
re-focus, before setting out for
another dozen moves.
Why do such images always
flash through my head when
I'm soloing? Does every climber
have to deal with this?
Mt Aspiring, New Zealand's
Matterhorn, is an aesthetic
pyramid of splendor that masks
a malevolent side that can
emerge suddenly and swallow
anyone trying to scale her
heights. At 3027m, her beauty
and grandeur attract many.
Katelyn and I had wanted to
follow in the footsteps of the first
ascent of the North West Ridge,
climbed in 1913 by Samuel
Turner, Harold Hodgkinson, Jack
Murrell and George Robertson.
The group succeeded in a 60-
hour push, despite horrendous
weather and constant bickering.
Turner, on returning, not only
overstated the feat in saying that
it would be "the first climb and
probably the last of Mt Aspiring's
east precipices", but also
showed a lack of orientation;
they were on the northern, not
During that epic battle, they
endured an uncomfortable,
unplanned and unwanted night
in a storm high above the ridge's
most prominent and intimidating
feature: the rock buttress.
10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222
It's a long trek but it's worth the effort
Most who take on the peak known to
Maori as Tititea, meaning Glistening
Peak, take a chopper to Bevan Col and
walk an hour or so to Colin Todd Hut, at
the base of the northwest ridge. But we
instead shouldered heavy packs and
opted for the steep incline of French
Ridge, which offers you branches, tree
roots, and all manner of flora to help you
ascend the track.
The French Ridge Hut is perched
just below the snow line and basks
in evening sunlight. When the alarm
sounded at 2am the following morning,
we were so excited that we were already
up and preparing breakfast.
We strapped on crampons, unleashed
our ice tools and roped up, moving
up a boot track and negotiating the
remains of a small - but disconcerting -
avalanche on our way to a crest called
Quarterdeck. We had a short snack
break, taking in the view to the north
for the first time. Keeping a close eye
on crevasses, we crossed the glacier
and made good time to the spot called
Kangaroo Patch, on the ridge just below
the rock buttress.
But then we lost our way. Katelyn's
crampons disagreed with the loose
scree on the ramps leading up to the
buttress, and the unsteady nature of the
climbing made us question if we had
wandered off-route. At one point, we
were reminded of our vulnerability when
I accidentally bumped my helmet from
my head. It somersaulted off the ridge to
the northern slopes, where the Therma
Glacier accepted it without question.
Eventually, we decided to head down
to Colin Todd Hut. That evening, there
were several guides in the hut who
told us that the rock ramp with the
loose gravel was the most common
route, despite frazzling the nerves of
many climbers. We had to leave the
following day, but with a perfect morning
forecast, I decided to push for a quick
summit before walking all the way out to
Raspberry Flats in the Matukituki Valley.
It was pitch black when I downed two
muesli bars and left the hut at 240am.
Weary and with my eyes half closed, I
made my way across steep snow to the
boot-track, as clouds hung snugly to
the ridge. Concentration was a strain,
but I soon found my flow on the way up
to Kangaroo Patch. Conditions were
glorious. Hard, crisp, solid snow. So
good, in fact, that I left the boot-track at
one point and climbed straight up to the
I was soon in the same predicament
as yesterday - an exposed position on
steep ramps of loose rock. But with
my crampons removed and a sense
of purpose, I moved confidently, often
preferring steeper, more solid rock to
looser terrain at a friendlier angle. At one
point I put my foot on a small ledge and
the schist rock crumbled as I weighted it,
but I kept my balance and pushed on.
I passed some rock protection wedged
between two boulders - a sign of other
climbers on the same route - pulled onto
a rock step, and was soon on top of the
buttress. The ridgeline narrowed and
became rocky once again. With snow
conditions so good, I stayed low on the
west face. It steepened sharply. And
then steepened some more.
Without realising it, I had traversed
onto the top of the Ramp. The Ramp
is the quickest way up and down the
mountain, but also the most dangerous.
Several people have died - mostly losing
their footing on the descent - after the
afternoon sun had made the Ramp less
Progress slowed. Focus intensified.
Images of my falling body cascaded
through my mind, no matter what I did
to try and block them out. As I climbed
higher, the vertigo increased, but near
the top the angle relaxed, and I gained
the ridge once again. A rush of relief
flooded my insides.
Nothing makes you feel more alive
than climbing a ridgeline as the dawn
light cloaks the surrounding peaks
in a soft blue. Complete solitude in
the mountains concentrates all the
wonderful things about mountaineering.
Self-sufficiency. Embracing the moment.
That resounding sense of perspective
that comes from being dwarfed by a
cirque of mountains as far as the eye
Reaching the summit at the same
time as the sun's first rays summons
a unique euphoria. It's as if you're
witnessing the birth of the world -
unspoiled and perfect and infinite.
Mt Aspiring towers hundreds of metres
above undulating, glaciated terrain
and a jagged skyline. I stared in awe
and then swiveled towards the west to
behold a sight that made me sink to my
knees - the magnificent shadow of Mt
Aspiring, a dark triangle commanding
the landscape. It was the kind of sight
that is greater than just the view,
because it awakens a blazing sense of
the sublime that words or photos could
never aptly describe. I remained there,
entranced, in the kind of silence that
only mountains can provide, trying to
bottle this feeling so I could come
back to it later.
Aspiring's shadow grew starker as
the daylight became stronger. It
started to shrink as the sun rose and
I started my descent. I avoided the
Ramp and stuck to the ridgeline,
removing my crampons whenever
there was an absence of snow.
Just the beginning
I made it back to the hut exactly
five hours after leaving it, and on a
high that only a perfect summit can
bring. Katelyn and I had a relaxing
breakfast and then trudged back over
the glacier to the Quarterdeck, and
down to French Ridge Hut. Every so
often, we heard tonnes of snow and
ice collapsing from the Breakaway,
a steep and broken part of the
glacier and the preferred approach
to Mt Aspiring before it became too
It was almost 830pm before we made
it to the carpark. The final, flat stretch
of valley floor was a benign end to a
weary day of almost 40km, including
about 1800m of vertical gain and
nearly 3000m in vertical drop. I could
not keep a conversation for the
final hour, my face glazing over in a
But I was smiling on the inside,
lit up by the fresh memory of the
dawn light brushing the summit, her
gentle slopes inhaling the warmth,
her striking shadow stretching out
towards the horizon.
The easiest way up Mt Aspiring is the
North West ridge from Colin Todd Hut.
Either take a helicopter to Bevan Col
and walk across the Bonar Glacier to the
hut, or hike in from the carpark (one to
two days either via French Ridge, or the
more direct approach via Bevan Col).
There are variations of the ridge that can
be climbed. The Ramp is the quickest
route, though bergshrunds can make it
impassable, and even if conditions are
good, the ramp bakes in the afternoon
sun and has been the scene of many
fatalities after climbers had lost their
footing on the descent.
Guided parties mainly opt to climb
slopes to Kangaroo Patch, and then
gain and climb a rock buttress on the
ridge. Note that the Mt Aspiring Region
guidebook says that the buttress can
be bypassed on the north side on easy
snow and rock terrain. This is possible,
but guided parties usually gain the
buttress via rock ramps on the northern
side that turn towards the south just as
the rock gets steeper, and then climb
the buttress proper. This is considered
an easier route and can be easily
downclimbed or rappelled.
After the buttress, stick to the ridge,
occasionally skirting to the northern
or southern side as common sense
dictates, as it gently climbs to the
summit. The ridge is not technical
climbing, but can be very exposed.
A guided expedition usually involves a
helicopter ride in to Bevan Col. Costs for
one person are around $3650 for one
person, or $2530 each for two people.
The North West route can be climbed all
year round, but the best time of year to
do it is November to January.
12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 13
By Bridget Thackwray
When Kiwi's Bridget Thackwray and
Topher Richwhite found themselves landlocked
in New Zealand with their trusted
Jeep left at Moscow Airport, they take to
exploring their own backyard.
Having spent the majority of our
relationship on the road, the idea of
being locked down in New Zealand was
quite foreign and daunting to us. The
one thing we’ve always thought that
could jeopardize our relationship is the
prospect of having our freedom to travel
crippled. It’s now been five months since
we left our Jeep in Moscow Airport and
our time in New Zealand has been far
from what we had feared.
Above: Kiwis, Bridget Thackwray and Topher Richwhite start their exploration of New Zealand in the far north.
14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222
The Nevis Road offers spectacular scenery.
With no idea of when we’d be able to return to Moscow to
continue Leg 3 (from Russia to New Zealand), we decided
we’d get stuck in and make the most of the southern
We contacted Jeep New Zealand who kindly supplied
us with a JL Wrangler which we subsequently named
‘Heaphy’. Charles Heaphy was not only a well-known
explorer but a painter who would go onto promoting New
Zealand’s natural beauty to the rest of the British Empire.
All of a sudden, we were back on the road and with our
new four wheeled companion, began an impromptu New
Zealand journey we called the ‘Intermission Expedition’.
We started in the far north on Rawawa Beach before
weaving our way down country. Because of the weather
at the time, it wasn’t long before we found ourselves in the
familiar backcountry of the Southern Alps.
When planning our routes during Expedition Earth, we
are always looking for landscapes and environments that
challenge ourselves and the vehicle. The Southern Alps
has some of the most stunning 4x4 terrain on the planet.
Whether you’re submerging yourself in the Rees Valley
or rock crawling in the high-country stations, it’s a great
place to master off-road driving.
Before starting Expedition Earth, Topher and I believed
that New Zealand was deprived of any exciting and exotic
wildlife. But from so far driving 5 continents and visiting
some of the world’s most concentrated natural habitats,
including the Galapagos Islands, we have grown a much
bigger appreciation of New Zealand’s wildlife. On our
mini adventures around the South Island we were so
happy to be reconnected with the cheeky alpine Keas and
inquisitive seals of Kaikoura and Catlins. The experience
one can have with these wild animals is as good as it gets
on a global level.
"The Southern Alps has some of the
most stunning 4x4 terrain on the
planet. Whether you’re submerging
yourself in the Rees Valley or
rock crawling in the high-country
stations, it’s a great place to master
16//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 17
Left: Heliskiing with Over the Top Helicoptors - image bySean Beale / Above right: crossing the Rees River / Bottom right: Skiing at Treble Cone
Main photo: Ski touring at the Remarkables
Since it was the snow season, we worked with HEAD Ski
on a campaign to trial their new seasons ski hardware and
sportswear. Because of all the driving to date, our bodies
were far from being in athletic condition. So apart from the
challenge of learning the art of ski photography, the physical
challenges of touring were immense. On one of our first
missions, on the back side of the Remarkables, we bumped
into Pete Oswald who with his partner Sophie are running
‘Ski for Trees’, a charity that plants a tree for every meter he
climbs while skinning. Pete gave us some good advice on the
best spots to climb and ski in the area.
Working with some of the local businesses gave us the
incredible opportunity to go heliskiing with Over the Top
Helicopters who took us for a few runs out the back of Mt
Aurum. Topher’s always been inspired by the Art of Flight
movie and was keen to emulate some of the chopper footage
which made it so epic. Without a monumental budget from
Red Bull, he settled for flying his drone from the front seat
while the Squirrel flew acrobatically between snowcapped
peaks. It was a great finale to our time in the snow!
As we begin our drive north, we are excited to reexplore parts
of our country that we have in the past taken for granted.
It is in our DNA as a country to look abroad, but from our
experience of exploring supposed greener pastures, we
can confidently say we have it so damn good here in New
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as an outstanding off roader, who’s capabilities
mean it can tackle the toughest of terrains when
‘Heaphy’ has been fitted with over ten of the most
capable genuine Mopar accessories available
for this model. This ensures ‘Heaphy’ has what it
needs to take on the tough New Zealand terrains
during the winter months with ease.
With over 70 safety features available on the
vehicle and fitted with the legendary 3.6-litre
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18//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 19
AKiwi’s Bucket List Tramping Experience
Story and images compliments of Aspiring Guides
If you’ve lived in New Zealand for any length of time,
chances are you’ve ticked off a few backcountry
adventures. After all, about a third of the country’s land
mass is protected land, and at least 10% is national park,
so you don’t have to go far to find a wild and scenic patch
of earth to explore.
But once you’ve mastered your backyard routes and you
need to step up the challenge, what’s next? It’s time to get
off the beaten track and away from the crowds of the Great
Walks, and one of the most prized routes for adventurous
trekkers is Rabbit Pass, located in a remote area of Mt
Aspiring National Park.
The Rabbit Pass smile
20//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 21
Clockwise from top left: Approaching Waterfall Face which leads to Rabbit Pass / Heading over Rabbit Pass is a big day, this pic
shows the walk before starting the descent into the East Matukituki Valley / A well earnt picnic lunch after heading up Waterfall face,
onto Rabbit Pass / Exploring the Upper Wilkin Valley - one of the most stunning areas we go hiking in
Longtime mountain guiding outfit Aspiring
Guides, based in Wanaka, knows the
route well, having led capable clients over
the pass for more than two decades. A
rigorous screening process during the
booking phase ensures that clients have
the proper experience, fitness, and footing
to make the journey safely. It’s not a route
for trampers new to the backcountry, but
its appeal draws queries from all levels of
“It's a remote part of Aspiring National
Park and you really have the sense of
getting away from the crowds and into
true wilderness,” says trekking guide
Jessica Marriott. “It’s a challenging trip,
not to mention the scenery is absolutely
So it’s basically everything that a keen Kiwi
tramper is looking for - but those in the
know realise that “challenging” doesn’t just
mean you need endurance.
“The trip involves more than just hiking,”
Jessica notes, “It requires route finding,
a good head for heights, river crossing
and scrambling skills. People need to be
physically fit and have the knowledge to
complete it safely.”
The crux is, of course, the pass itself,
which tops out at 1430m. An improbable
scramble up Waterfall Face is a feat in
itself. The face is comprised of snowgrass,
small footholds and handholds, and
significant exposure to the valley far below.
The effort is rewarded with a unique view
of the valley below.
The descent provides a new set of
challenges, as you follow a steep rock
gully into the next valley over and enter
a new landscape of native herb gardens.
While the most technical aspect of the trip
may be behind you, the journey’s physical
challenges carry on. Once past Bledisloe
Gorge, the climbing begins again, from
open river flats through ancient forest and
up to the alpine with views across to Mt
Aspiring herself, before descending again
and winding through the forest back to
Aspiring Guides take four days to
complete the traverse, starting with a
flight into Jumboland and hike to Top
Forks Hut. They run a longer trip over
eight days which includes Gillespie Pass
first. The eight day option is the ultimate
backcountry experience, often referred to
as “New Zealand’s hardest guided hike.”
This option has no helicopters, you simply
take what you can carry on your back and
In this sense, having a guide not only
provides an increased level of confidence
and comfort, it also eases the pressure
of tricky decision making and logistics.
No need to worry about having a vehicle
at each end of the route. Having weather
updates and contingency plans is the
guide’s responsibility, as organising great
backcountry meals. The guides cannot,
however, keep your boots dry -- wet boots
from side streams and river crossings is
just part of the NZ wilderness package.
Guiding rugged tracks is Aspiring Guides’
specialty, appealing to NZ’ers and visitors
alike with three to eight day itineraries that
offer authentic backcountry experiences in
For Jessica and many guides, the reward
isn’t just being in new landscapes each
day, but the satisfaction of taking people
into places where they might never have
gone without a guide. For the Kiwi tramper
who’s feeling restless on their usual trails
and ready to push their limits, the Southern
Alps, with assistance and knowledge
from local guides, might be just the right
22//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222
Documenting the cirumnavigation of
By Mike Dawsom
It’s big, really big. The wind is beating us
down, 40kts of bitterly cold Southerly right
in the face. Massive rollers moving in from
the South-West smashing our laden boats
around, before crashing into the West
Coast bluffs and refracting back creating
a turmoiled mess of water. The Southern
Ocean was alive, and we were in our
element, running the gauntlet trying to pass
10 km of relentless exposed coastline as
we approached the South Cape and safe
harbour, between two storm systems – a
must make move to get South.
24//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 25
Feeling insignificant in this wild place as we arrive into Doughboy Bay after a long and physical 65km day.
Clockwise from Top left 1. Camped out in ‘Easy Harbour’ waiting out some big storms before our attempt on the Southern
Cape of Stewart Island. 2. Fresh fish, staple diet on Stewart Island. 3. Yankee Hut at the mouth of the Yankee River, a place
we were stuck for 2 days waiting for the wild westerly to subside. 4. The salt water was a bit different for the whitewater
paddlers ripping their hands to shreds. 5. Taking in the wildlife, Lords River - Stewart Island.
8 Days earlier the ferry docked in Oban, the capital
– Or really only town on the island. Adventure was
waiting & it was time to go. The Half-Moon Bay
beach, in the centre of town, became a sprawling
mess of equipment, Radix food and kayak kit as the
team readied itself to embark on a 12-day journey
to attempt a circumnavigation of Stewart Island.
Barely 12 hrs later, as the sun began to peak over
the horizon from the East, 4 kayaks launched and
headed West. We departed unsure of when we
would be back.
Heading West along the edge of Foveaux Strait
with Bluff hill silhouetted in the dawn sun in the
distance. Our progress was fast, and within minutes
all signs of civilisation were left behind, and we were
off. Rounding out of the bay the ocean began to
play ball, the currents of the Foveaux Strait quickly
dragging us out towards the North Cape and onto
the West Coast. But it was daunting, with a huge
amount of kayaking experience all on rivers we
weren’t sure what we would find out here – in the
As the days progressed is became obvious our
biggest challenge was time. The roaring Westerly
had picked up and our progress was slowed
almost to a standstill. We hoped for great weather
but planned for the worst. It was mid-winter after
all. Day 1, 2, 3 & 4 saw slow progress along the
Northern Coast, constantly pushed back by the
gusting Westerlies. Eventually seeking shelter at the
aptly named Christmas Village Hut to wait out the
storm, recalculate our timeframe and continuously
count our food. And waiting was easy on Stewart
Island, the endless hunters and DOC huts littered
throughout the conservation area made for a quick
respite from the wintery weather throughout the
Finally, the waves and wind subsided, and we went
for it – Rounding the North West Cape and heading
South, a massive day as we passed by beautiful
remote Stewart Island. Pre-made Radix meals
safely tucked into our lifejackets as we pushed
ahead to the DOC hut in Doughboy Bay – A safe
harbour for the night. This Coastline is relentless. It’s
rugged and wild. Constantly bashed by the roaring
40’s combined with giant waves reaching their first
landmass since being drummed up in Antarctica.
26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 27
Landing on the majestic beach in Doughboy
Bay, the Southern end of the Nor-Western
Track, our last sign of life before heading
around the Southern coast of Stewart Island.
28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 29
PHIL’S SEA KAYAK
Locked and loaded, Pat De Jong setting a quick pace in a loaded kayak
fully supplied with 10 days worth of food and equipment.
There’s a reason it’s an isolated in inhospitable place. Leaving
Doughboy Bay, we entered the most exposed section of the
circumnavigation – The 10km of coastline before Easy Harbour.
Rocky bluffs meant there was no safe place to head back to shore
until a large channel gifting access to the shelter of Kundy Island.
Here we found out what it is like to battle the Southern Ocean
swells. The wind picked up and the swell began to build, soon
a few kilometres out to see we found ourselves taking on huge
breaking swells, combined with refraction swells bouncing off the
bluffs. It was an intense few hours drawing on all our white-water
From here it was the waiting game for the swell to subside
before making an attempt on the Southern Cape. 1 day later the
conditions looked good – Variable 5kts with 2.6 SW Swell. We
went for it and 7 hrs later we arrived into shelter and beauty of
Port Pegasus, in the shadow of the giant granite domes of Gog
& Magog. We rested up after what was a fairly massive day
paddling past the most epic coastal landscape imaginable.
From there it was plain sailing – Heading North, the end in
sight – Pegasus to Lords River – Lords River to Oban. 2 big but
achievable days saw our fatigued and broken bodies steer our
boats to a rest on the beach we’d set off from 12 days prior. The
boats up to their final resting spot – We weren’t the first and we
won’t be the last, but we’d got it done.
30//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222
Capturing the expedition – This trip was shot
on the Canon R EOS with 70-200 f2.8 RF 24-105
f2.8 RF Lens.
It’s a challenge balancing capturing the expedition
to tell the story of being out there without taking
away from the authentic experience of just
enjoying it. Alone. Isolated. In nature – Exploring
somewhere new, untouched and beautiful. For
me the question is always – What camera set-up
to add to the monstrosity of equipment packed
into the boats? Ultimately, in the wild world of
adventure photography less is usually more. A
set up that gets the shot but doesn’t slow the
team down, that’s accessible to shoot and quick
to get shooting ensures the ability to capture the
Shooting from a kayak is a dangerous game.
There’s nothing quite as daunting as taking off the
spray deck of your kayak far out in the Southern
Ocean. Sacrificing the only thing stopping the icy
cold sea water from rushing in, sinking my bright
little kayaking just to get the shot – To access my
camera, balanced precariously between my legs.
And there were plenty of shots missed. Magical
moments on the water where I couldn’t dare get
my camera out, let alone take a hand off the
paddle. Scary moments where the sole focus
was survival – But that’s all part of the game, of
sharing the story.
Explore the pristine clear
waters of Stewart Island
with it’s amazing marine
life, bays and sandy
Experience paddling paradise!
Stroll golden sandy beaches and take in the rich cultural history.
Full/half day/2 1/2 hour and sunset excursions available.
Registered owner/guide; passional sea kayaker.
Kayak rental available (some conditions apply).
PHIL@ SEAKAYAKSTEWARTISLAND.NZ | 027 4442323
Hot Water Beach Te Ariki Bay, Mt Tarawera
By Erik Skilling
To be honest I was keen to get out of the city after all
those weeks stuck in Covid19 lockdown. A weekend
away in the bush sounded appealing.
Hot pools. If you are going to tramp this time of year with
its mud, short days, and cold nights pick somewhere
that allows you to camp by a hot pool. Preferably also
convince a close friend with benefits like a love of
camping, starry nights, and my company. In the middle of
winter. Not easy.
On an earlier pre-Covid mountain-biking trip to Rotorua,
apart from being too early to come across Michael
Clarke, we had heard of a 5-hour track to Hot-Water
beach at Te Rata Bay on Lake Tarawera. The thought of
soaking in a hot pool at this time of year was just enough
to persuade a friend to join me. The weather forecast at
the time was a bit dodgy but as often happens when you
commit, the trip would turn out to be the perfect choice
with some unique and memorable experiences.
True to form it felt good to be back in lush New Zealand
bush again. The undulating track wound its way through
thick native bush, stands of manuka and gullies full of
tree-fern standing several metres high. There are enough
hills to get the heart rate going with the reward of several
stunning views of the lake. There are two options for
a lunch stop, both with a table and toilet nearby. We
chose to stop next to the crystal-clear Wairua stream,
about two-thirds of the way to Te Rata Bay. Despite DOC
advice not to drink the water because of the thermal
activity nearby, we helped ourselves with no adverse
effects. And no wet feet - all the streams were bridged.
Te Rata Bay is one of those places that you just want to
keep to yourself. When you can set up tent a few meters
from the lake edge, on ground naturally heated, with
views across a steaming lake to the mighty Mt Tarawera
itself, this is 6-star camping. Don’t think too much about
why that that ground is so warm. Just enjoy the perk.
We got to share the bay with Jason the local caretaker
and one other couple who camped out of view. So much
for needing to book. The whine of an outboard motor
momentarily invaded the stillness (I say more waka, less
motor) as we set up camp, but mid-winter is the perfect
time to enjoy this place.
Overlooking Te Ariki Bay
32//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222
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The much-hyped long soak in the hot-pool
met all the expectations of my gracious fellow
tramper – although sipping port helped a bit.
Okay, a lot. Asking her to join in for the quick
dip in the lake was a quick sprint too far, but it
was a very contented and hot companion that
emerged from the pool in time to settle down
Jason had a cast-iron pot of wallaby stew
gently cooking away in the near 90C hotwater
stream metres away from our tent.
Excellent use of an Australian pest that had
been trapped earlier. One of the many perks
of being the caretaker here. The two of us
settled down to the decadence of the new Go-
Native butter chicken and vegetable curry and
enjoyed the vista as the sun set. Then, to add
to the mood the clouds cleared, and we were
able to enjoy the milky way. Cosy.
Next morning, I woke from possibly the best
night’s sleep I have ever enjoyed in a tent
thanks mostly to the underfloor heating. The
intention had been to wake-up slightly before
dawn with the hope of seeing Matariki, but
the sky was bright by the time I woke up
and unzipped the tent flap. The view was
stunning. An elegant looking black swan was
tracking its way across the lake in front of us,
and to one side, a cloud of steam hung in the
air. Otherwise just a glassy-calm lake with a
distant Mt Tarawera silhouetted against the
Eventually Jason emerged from his catamaran
which was beached on the lake edge and
wandered down to check on his wallaby
stew. Next time I will remember to bring some
stewing steak and a few veges and stay an
extra day to really enjoy the place.
We sipped freshly brewed hot coffee and
gazed out at the lake and across to Mt
Tarawera which was now shrouded in dark
misty cloud. The lake itself was still glassy
calm, the swan having moved further down
the bay. We imagined the scene nearly 150
years ago as tourists described as “moneyed
foreigners” were rowed across the bay in
front of us to the Kaiwaka river at the end
of the bay and onto the Pink and White
Terraces. The tourists got to enjoy a meal of
potatoes and Koura (freshwater crayfish) and
a swim at the terraces before being rowed
back, all for the princely sum of Stg2, which
provided a decent income for the local iwi
back in 1880.
Sometime later the whine of the water-taxi
broke the tranquillity which also seemed
to be the signal for the breeze to pick up.
Before long white caps were appearing on
the lake. Time to get organised and head
home. It was quite late by the time we left
but I think we can be forgiven – and no issue
anyway with just 5 to 6 leisurely hours of
We arrived back at the car park (which is
secured at night) just as low-lying wintery
sun was beginning to set. The legs ached
just enough to make you feel like you had
had a decent workout. We confirmed that
tramping can be just as enjoyable at this
time of year as they can be in the summer
months. The hot-water beach tramp had
so much to offer – thermal hot pool to
enjoy at the end of the day, superb native
bush and spectacular vistas. The track is
clearly signposted and well maintained with
beautiful lakeside camping and spotlessly
clean amenities, which all made for a
memorable weekend trip away.
This is a remarkable region, rich in
New Zealand history. Our thanks to the
Tuhourangi people who have made it so
easy for us to enjoy.
Author, Erik Skilling, enjoying a mid-winter's hike and camp
This is the sort of trip you want to keep to yourself,
but Tarawera has justifiably been a “tourist magnet”
since late 1870 when the entrepreneurial chief Aporo
Te Wharekaniwha built the 25-bed Cascade Hotel and
charged international tourists Stg2 each to be taken to
view the world famous Pink and White Terraces.
Violence, both man-made and natural have taken a
big toll on the local inhabitants over the last few 100
Many years ago a local chief Umukari was killed and
decapitated by the Apumoana iwi. His head was found
in a cave on the small peninsula facing the Landing,
an area now dotted with baches and moorings
about 20 minutes into the tramp. The cave itself was
submerged when lake-waters rose after the Tarawera
Umukari’s son Wahiao and Tutanekai - of Tutanekai
and Hinemoa fame, led a war-party to Moura Pa
sited on the peninsula just across the water from the
campsite at Hot Water Beach. The attackers entered
the Pa via the “back-door”– attaching ropes to an
overhanging tree and scaling the cliffs. All of the
Apumoana iwi were either killed or taken prisoner.
In June 1886 Mt Tarawera exploded and the ensuing
eruption took the lives of 107 people and buried the
Pink and White Terraces. Twenty-nine of those who
perished were living at Te Rapa Bay. Many of the local
iwi were forced to leave the area with the associated
collapse of the tourist industry that had been providing
them with an estimated Stg6,000 income annually.
Today Tuhourangi have returned, and their
entrepreneurial flair revived. We certainly appreciated
the effort put in to keep the track maintained and the
bay and campsite so pristine.
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Safely plan your summer tramp
By New Zealand Mountain Safety Council
The sun is shining; the days are getting
warmer and longer; summer is the time for
the outdoors. It’s a Kiwi’s rite of passage
to get amongst the nature that surrounds
us all, however, it can be just that
carefree summer vibe that gets outdoor
enthusiasts into trouble. Whether it be
a day bush walk or a multi-day tramp,
being prepared this summer could be the
biggest factor that saves a life. Mountain
Safety Council (MSC) Chief Executive
Mike Daisley hopes all Kiwis who plan
to make the most of the outdoors this
season will take the time to carefully plan
and prepare for each excursion.
Each summer, about one million Kiwis
head outdoors for a bushwalk or an
overnight tramp. However, a concerning
number of them are being rescued each
year due to being unprepared.
importance of thorough planning, then
we can reduce the number of incidents,”
To be prepared is quite simple, he says.
“It’s basic things like researching the
area you are going into, it’s about
being prepared for possible changes in
weather conditions, and to always have
warm clothing, a waterproof jacket and
emergency shelter in your backpack
regardless of the forecast.
of these issues go hand in hand with
trampers not being prepared for the
conditions, not having essential gear such
as warm clothing, a waterproof jacket or
even a torch.
Being summer, many Kiwis don’t consider
the possibility of the weather changing
or needing warm clothing. Annual figures
show that being underprepared occurs
all year round, however, it’s very much
happening in summer as well, he says.
Other safety tips Daisley suggests
considering is the abilities of everyone in
your group based on the slowest member
and to allow extra breaks, get out on the
track early and don’t waste valuable time,
and sticking to schedule is as important
as stopping regularly to check your
location and to re-group.
“Getting into trouble in the outdoors has
the potential to really ruin your summer
holiday, but it can be prevented,” Daisley
One in four New Zealand adults go
tramping every year. However, the
concern is that more than 300 of them are
rescued annually. Many of these rescues
are due to trampers being unprepared for
the weather, conditions or difficulty of the
track, according to MSC research.
“It’s a concerning figure because the
majority are preventable, highlighting the
“Safety is the outcome of good planning
and good decision making,” he says.
A common theme identified by MSC is
that many day trampers only prepare for
the day walk they’re about to embark on,
rather than thinking ahead, and asking
themselves ‘what if’ when they’re packing
for the trip, he says.
The most common reasons for day
tramper rescues are navigation errors
and inexperience, and the walk taking
longer than expected to complete. Many
The NZ Mountain Safety Council's
website is an excellent resource for online
free resources to support planning for
any outdoor adventure. You can learn to
prepare for your chosen activity, learn
skills such as navigation and watch videos
on popular tracks and how to explore
them safety. No time like the present to
start your upskilling now and make for the
best possible summer adventure.
Sourced from The New Zealand Mountain
Safety Council (MSC) – A Walk in the
Park - 2018
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40//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222
“I found that getting outdoors was good for me, so I wanted
to share that kaupapa (mission) with other people”.
for attendees who are predominantly citydwelling
young professionals, then using
Facebook to appeal to people.
Bruce, who with no prior qualifications in
the outdoors, become a NZOIA qualified
Bush Leader, Mountain Bike Leader,
NZSurf Paddle Board instructor and even a
heavy-truck and passenger service driver,
all in one year.
which Bruce and other operators have
accessed, but most of these have now
finished and “when that happens you
realise you are quite alone”.
Having to buck the trend of ‘men asking
for help’, Bruce has recently asked for
assistance from his clients and staff to get
through Covid-19, which he says was not
easy to admit to needing
By Robert Bruce
In an ironic and cruel twist of fate,
many mountain guides and adventure
operators in New Zealand are now
the ones in need of saving. Today's
hazard for outdoors experts is not just
falling ice or rocks, rather the invisible
economic impacts of Covid-19 keeping
customers away and drying up income.
Adventure Magazine speaks to Robert
Bruce, managing director and head
guide of Got To Get Out, about the huge
effect of ‘lock down’ on his socially good
guiding business. Bruce shares how his
community has “helped the mountain
guide survive”, and he hopes this
experience can help other operators to
survive Covid19 too.
Saving the Mountain guides
42//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222
It’s well documented that Kiwi men are
often reluctant to ask for help. Mountain
guides in particular are often trained to rely
on their practical skills and resilience to
‘get through’ tough situations. For most, the
thought of asking clients or staff for help is
simply not an option.
In 2020, Covid-19 is causing a huge storm
for many guiding businesses; with borders
shut, limits on trip sizes, and enforced
social distancing, it has bcome a battle
for survival for many. The livelihoods of
mountain guides is of course bringing
people close together.
One outdoor professional affected by
the sudden downturn is kiwi social
entrepreneur Robert Bruce. 36 year
old Bruce is founder and head guide of
adventure group Got To Get Out, which
is a bold new type of adventure guiding
company. Got To Get Out was founded
by Bruce in 2015 to “get the communities
of New Zealand outdoors, healthy, into
nature and connected”. His enterprise has
rapidly grown into a national organisation
with a huge online following and numerous
staff and volunteers. Bruce’s group
has arranged hundreds of group hikes,
mountain bike rides, paddle boarding,
camping and ski trips that are designed
to create income to fund free activities for
those less fortunate. The social enterprise
has featured in awards events like ‘best
community contribution’ at the Aucklad
Westpac Busness Awards, and Bruce
personally is a New Zealander of the Year
“The idea of Got To Get Out came to me
during my first trip to Nepal, trekking to
Mt Everest Base Camp” says Bruce. “I
had left the corporate world and decided
I wanted to apply my skills of marketing,
events, and social media for a far more
socially-good cause, to try and improve the
bad mental and physical health statistics of
New Zealand. I found that getting outdoors
was good for me, so I wanted to share that
kaupapa (mission) with other people”.
The premise of Got To Get Out is to do
the heavy-lifting of adventure planning for
attendees, by arranging the routes, maps,
transport, guiding and even gear rental
“We are really good at making safe
enjoyable outdoor trips that are accessible
for people regardless of skill level. We try
to make it easy for busy people to find our
trips on social media, and just click “going”.
It’s about removing the barrier to entry for
people joining a group guided trip”.
Each year since Bruce founded Got To Get
Out in Nepal the has returned with growing
groups of New Zealanders, each eager to
follow the footsteps of mountaineers like
Edmund Hillary, Rob Hall and other Kiwi
pioneers to see the tallest mountains on
earth. In December 2019 Bruce hosted
his largest group yet, with thirty mostlykiwis
trekking to Mt Everest Base Camp.
He had his leadership tested managing
an emergency evacuation of four trekkers
with altitude sickness, from around 5000m
above sea level.
“Despite the hundreds of adventures I’ve
guided or arranged, including the situation
in Nepal this year, you just can’t plan for
something like Covid-19” says Bruce.
“We’ve seen our income dry up overnight,
but the overhead bills remain. We’ve had
our ability to travel and get close to people
severely restricted, which is exactly what
we do. It’s an extremely hard time to be in
the guiding business right now”.
There have been some support
mechanisms like wage subsidy schemes
After the second lockdown cancelling his
events, and with no end in sight, Bruce
asked his followers and staff online to
donate to keep his social enterprise afloat.
Bruce titled the email and social media
call-out “help us to survive covid-19”, and
he has been amazed at the outpouring of
support via his now-closed Givealittle page.
In just two weeks Bruce raised over $6,000
from nearly two hundred donors to help
cover his most pressing business costs,
which he says will help keep Got To Get
Out afloat and helping the community
for a little while at least. The money is
appreciated but it was messages of support
that were most heart-warming.
“Hundreds of people messaged us
alongside their donations, telling us how
important our mahi (work) is to them, and
to not give up. It really touched me and was
a great motivation”.
Bruce is extremely grateful to each person
who donated to him, and recommends to
other guides or outdoors companies feeling
the effects of Covid-19, to reach out to their
customers and even staff for help.
“Like me you may be touched by the
love and support that comes from your
community to keep your business or at
least morale afloat a wee bit longer. Give
it a go”.
TONGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING
MORE THAN ICONIC
By Craig (Spud) Crosse
Simply put the “Tongariro Alpine
Crossing” is more than iconic.
Having trekked and climbed on
seven continents I feel privileged
to live next to what many regard
as the best one day walk in New
Zealand. The dramatic landscape
you experience throughout the
19.4km trek is simply second to
The Park – The Tongariro National
Park is not only the oldest
National park in New Zealand but
in fact was the fourth National
Park established in the world. Now
days the Tongariro National Park
is a UNESCO dual World Heritage
Park, listed for its cultural and
The mountains, the rivers, the
peaks all have strong ties to
the local iwi. You do not really
appreciate this area to you begin
to understand theses ties and the
amazing foresight of Horonuku
Te Heuheu, the paramount chief
of Ngati Tuwharetoa. It was his
foresight in 1887 which is formed
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing, possibly the most
talked about trek in New Zealand ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 45
Left: Emerald Lake, not for swimming! / Above: Looks like a scene from Lord of the Rings, which it is!
The Crossing has long been one of
NZ’s “Great Walks” and pre Covid saw
numbers peaking at over 140,000 a
summer. It has been regarded as one
of the top ten things for international
backpackers to do. Yes, it is popular
and at 8am at the start of the track at
Mangatepopo you were overwhelmed
But don’t be put off by these numbers as
now in the Covid time we live in the track
won’t be reach these numbers again
for sometime. But even on during these
busy days you can still find peace and
solitude to enjoy the magic by starting
early or later than the masses. Nothing
can beat standing on the summit of
Red Crater as the sun appears over the
Kaimanawa range and there are just you
and the mountains.
For most people who trek over the
Crossing it will the hardest and furthest
they have ever walked and probably
ever will. The day encompasses two
significant climbs and ends with a
But for what you see in one day is it
worth it?...The answer…HELL YES..!
While traditionally “Kiwi’s” prefer to
freedom walk our Great Walks for those
who opt for guided experience there
comes a massive satisfaction and sense
of security. To be able to understand
the fascinating geology and gain a
great understanding of the cultural
significance while trekking across an
active volcanic landscape lets you really
enjoy the magic of Tongariro on another
level. It is only on a guided walk will
you understand why the alpine lakes
and peaks of the mountains are sacred
to the local Māori tribe Ngāti Hikairo
ki Tongariro and why now they ask
respectfully, that peaks are not climbed
and waterways are not to be touched.
Hearing how Maori legends like how
Ngatoroirangi brought volcanic activity to
While you can walk the track in either
direction, the majority of people walk it
Mangatepopo to Ketetahi, minimizing
the ascent. There is now a 4 hour
parking restriction at Mangatepopo road
end to allow for those doing short walks.
However, if you are intending on hiking
the entire Tongariro Crossing, there are
many shuttle options available who can
accommodate a range of drop off times
and pick up times.
The dramatic landscape changes
throughout the day which makes this
walk so special. The track begins at the
Mangatepopo carpark and for the first
1.5hrs you wander up the valley towards
Mt Tongariro and Mt Ngauruhoe.
Following the Mangatepopo Stream
(note – this is not suitable for drinking)
and walking over old lava flows that
have spilled out of Mt Ngauruhoe. Soda
Springs is a great place refuel adjust
layers and prepare for the first ascent of
From Soda Springs at the head of the
valley the climb up the Devil’s Staircase
(approx. 45min) zig zags up to South
Crater allowing for stunning views out to
the west towards Mt Taranaki. The climb
up to South Crater takes you over the
lava flow from 1954 out of Mt Ngauruhoe
which is considered to be the most
continuously active of the volcanoes
in New Zealand. Having erupted more
than 70 times since 1839.
The walk across South Crater is to
enjoyed is to be enjoyed as not only
are the views magical but this is one
of the only flat pieces of track you will
encounter all day.
The last major climb for the day is up
Red Crater ridge past Cathedral rock
and Shelter rock. This section is a lot
more exposed and provides no shelter
from the elements. It is here you get
panoramic views down to the Rangipo
Desert and across the Kaimanawa
Range, the rewards for a hard climb
are well worth it.
Red Crater (1886m) the high point of
the journey simply put is breath taking.
The smell of Sulphur and steaming
vents reminds you are on an active
volcano while looking into Red Crater
it is easy to see where lava spewed
out in 1850’s pouring into the Outere
Valley, South and Central Craters.
The spectacular red colour due to
the presence of oxidised iron in the
rock makes for dramatic viewing. For
the unprepared and inexperienced
trekkers this can be at times totally
unpleasant. As a rule of thumb Red
Crater on a calm day is 10c colder
than National Park Village or Taupo
and if you happen to have a 50km/
hr wind it will be 20c colder. This spot
holds a massive sense of beauty but
must be respected as it can as hostile
as it is majestic.
The descent down off Red Crater
is via a scree slope to Emerald
Lakes known as Ngā Rotopounamu
(greenstone – hued lakes) which are
in fact old explosion pits and ever
changing brilliant colours are formed
the minerals from the surrounding
environment. Some days these
lakes are green in colour and some
days blue. Emerald Lakes marks the
halfway point in the trek and ideal
place to refuel as it is often sheltered.
From Emerald Lakes there is a short
trek over to Central Crater to Blue
Lake The lake is Tapu (sacred) and
it is disrespectful to touch, enter, eat
or drink around its shores. before the
track heads north to the flanks of Mt
Tongariro. The track finishes 350m
lower than the start at Mangatepopo
so expect a long descent zig zaging
down past massive alpine tussocks.
But the views across Lake Rotoaira
and further north east to Lake Taupo
make up for long descent ascent
ahead. The last 1hr of the day is spent
descending through Native Beech
forest, a vast contrast from the lava
flows, lakes and craters from earlier.
TONGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING
NGATI TUWHARETOA PARAMOUNT
CHIEF, TE HEUHEU TUKINO IV
(HORONUKU) GIFTED THE PEAKS
OF RUAPEHU, TONGARIRO AND
NGAURUHOE TO THE PEOPLE OF
NEW ZEALAND IN 1887, WITH THE
INTENT THE CROWN WOULD STAND
ALONGSIDE NGATI TUWHARETOA
TO ENSURE THE CONTINUED
PROTECTION OF TONGARIRO.
THE GIFT FORMED THE NUCLEUS OF
THE TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK.
THE MOUNTAINS OF TONGARIRO ARE
RECOGNIZED AS CENTRAL TO THE
LIVES OF NGATI TUWHARETOA AND
IWI OF THIS AREA.
46//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 47
Welcome to Tongariro Guided Walks
Author, Craig (Spud) Crosse, prepared for a big day
Great Gift Idea
Join us to find out why this is often referred to as the best one day walk in
New Zealand, (if not the world), with a Guide who will reveal some of the
secrets of this stunning area. Now that Aotearoa has closed borders, we are
operating small tours with special pricing for the rest of 2020.
The Weather on the Crossing can be incredible
unpredictable and relentless as you are exposed to
elements for long periods. In 2007 the crossing was
called the "Tongariro Crossing", but this was changed
to the "Tongariro Alpine Crossing" to emphasize the
extreme weather on the exposed terrain.
TONGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING
Built by fiery eruptions and sculpted by glaciers, learn about the significance
of Tongariro to those who live nearby, and the history of this, the first Dual
World Heritage National Park in New Zealand.
Tongariro Guided Walks offers quality guided walking experiences on tracks
in and around the Tongariro National Park, Aotearoa New Zealand's very first
World Heritage site.
With the international borders closed we have some special deals operating,
we know that there are still plenty of people keen to get out and explore.
Specialising in small groups and Private tours, our knowledgeable, caring
guides can also manage large groups in a way that makes each person, on
every trip, feel that they have gained insights into the landscape, its people
and its history. We have your comfort and safety in mind.
While the Crossing can be walked anytime of the year
a winter journey requires alpine travel experience
and being competent with ice axe and crampons at a
minimum and is best done with a guide.
The Outdoor Safety Code
1. Plan your trip
2. Tell someone
3. Be aware of the weather
4. Know your limits
5. Take sufficient supplies
LENGTH 19.4KM – ALLOW 6-8HR
ASCENT: 776M - DESCENT: 1126M
Don’t just do a good walk......
do a GREAT one!
0800 496 369
0800 4 A WALK | +64 273 089 689 | tongAriroguidedWALKs.nz
Fully organised & supported self-guided & guided walks.
Bringing the New Zealand outdoors
......a step closer to you!
"The dramatic landscape
changes throughout the
day which makes this walk
50//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222
The crossing's magestical beauty
The managebale challengea
For those who want to head away from the crowds, who want a real mountain
experience, who want that manageable challenge, then take full day Ruapehu Guided
Walk with Adrift Tongariro is just right for you.
Mt Ruapehu is the largest active volcano in New Zealand, it is the highest point in the
North Island and has three major peaks: Tahurangi (2,797 m), Te Heuheu (2,755 m)
and Paretetaitonga (2,751 m). There is a deep, active crater is between the peaks
which fills with water between major eruptions, known as Crater Lake (Māori: Te Wai
ā-moe) and is considered sacred.
Summit Shuttles ‘park n ride’ located
at 1 Ward St National Park Village –
next to The Station Café
PICK UP TIMES 5.45AM, 7.00AM,
Other transport options:
WHAKAPAPA SKI AREA
BUS / TRAIN TRANSFERS
ROUND THE MOUNTAIN TRACK
With no international visitors
this summer, now is the time to do
the world famous Tongariro
Alpine Crossing. One of the best
one day hikes on the planet.
Mountain bike hire and Transport to
OLD COACH ROAD
MARTON SASH & DOOR
NZ highest Stand up
Walking distance to the top is around 10
km return or 7 km return when the chairlift
is utilised. Walking time is about 6-7
hours. This walk requires a good level of
fitness. The terrain is often uneven and
can be steep in places. It is possible to
take the walk as far as Knoll Ridge Cafe if
you are concerned about your fitness.
During winter and times of snow, surface
conditions will vary from day to day as
you would expect. So to be safe you want
to make sure you go with a local guide,
someone to keep you safe and who can
give you insights about the environment
and where you are. Crampons and ice
axes are required, but it is all part of the
alpine experience and your guide will
provide instruction on how to use them
Summiting Mt Ruapehu, with Adrift Tongariro
Mt. Ruapehu. There may be an option
of taking a chairlift or the Gondola up
to Knoll Ridge cafe. This option will
depend on the group on the day and
if the chairlifts are operating. The lifts
close at 4.00 pm daily, should conditions
deteriorate during the day the lifts may
have to be closed earlier. So you need to
be prepared to walk down.
There are transfer options from all the
local towns. If you are inexperienced in
alpine conditioned, we strongly advise
you to take a guided tour, you will be safe,
well equipped and entertained.
Your world-famous backyard awaits you…
Explore the mighty Tongariro National
Park the way it used to be; with no
0800 828 294
Any transport options available! Bookings essential!
There is something special to have lunch
on top of the North Island highest volcano
from where you can gaze down into the
geothermal waters of the crater lake and
look down from the North Islands highest
But it is worthy to note this is not the
Tongariro Crossing, there are not the
same boundary markings, no nicely
chiselled steps and permanent lines to
hold on too, that is why it pays to take
a guide! The track is alpine and is less
stable walking than on the Tongariro
The walk begins at the Whakapapa Ski
area at the top of the Bruce Road on
Currently, there are some great ‘specials’
to take advantage of and you can
postpone your trip at any time up until 30
April 2021 at this special price.
Adrift Tongariro guided trips will deliver
a friendly, informative and unforgettable
experience. The breath-taking scenery
speaks for itself and our guides will
constantly monitor the weather and
conditions for your safety and time your
customised pickup. They will explain the
geography and history of the Tongariro
National Park and New Zealand along
with details on the flora, fauna and
geology of the area. Clothing, footwear
and any essential equipment required
for the walk can be hired from Adrift
STAY AT ADVENTURE LODGE, NATIONAL PARK
TONGARIRO CROSSING SPECIAL
• 2 x nights accommodation in a lodge budget room
($220 each) or self contained apartment ($275 each
person) – min two persons!
• 2 x cooked breakfasts
• 2 x breakfasts on the run (bacon, egg and cheese in
an English muffin) orange juice and breakfast biscuits
– perfect to take to the crossing – sit on a rock and
look at the views!! /2 x cut gourmet cut lunches and
all the water you can carry! / 2 x complimentary shuttle
rides to the crossing – return trip! / 2 x hot spa’s
after the Crossing!
• Free unlimited wifi!
Facilities include: Bar fully licienced on premises, room
service of a meat, cheese and bread platter after the
crossing (extra cost of $45 per platter or $75 platter with
a bottle of wine included) to be paid upon ordering.
Tongariro National Park
+64 7 8922993
Packages starting at
$234 per couple
Dorm beds to private double rooms with ensuite
Indoor Climbing Wall:
Open daily 9am to 8pm
Tongariro Crossing Shuttle:
Right from our doorstep all summer
Adventure starts here”
Tongariro National Park Villages
Dual Heritage Tongariro
www.tongariroalpinecrossing.org.nz | www.nationalpark.co.nz
Central Taupo Motel accommodation
searchers look for the best central location,
quality reviews and great service.
Welcome to Acapulco Motor Inn, the best
affordable Taupo Motel.
This Taupo Motel is a kiwi family run
business that loves their job and takes pride
in presenting the best choice for a Taupo
Motel. A short walk to central Taupo with an
array of shops and eateries. Try some local
kiwi flavours and some Must Do activities to
maximise your Taupo visit.
Acapulco Taupo Motor Inn has a range of
accommodation choices that can sleep from
1 to 8 guests. Some Motel rooms have a spa
Pool or spa bath. All Motel rooms have air
Bed and Breakfast
Budget Lodge Accommodation
Self-Contained Motel Units
Packages available for skiing and Tongariro Crossing
adventurenationalpark.co.nz | 0800 621 061
54//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222
4 Findlay Street, National Park
www.npbp.co.nz | 07 892 2870 | email@example.com
Check through our accommodation choices
to match your needs to the best Acapulco
Motor Inn room or apartment.
A: 19 Rifle Range Road, Taupo 3330 | T: +64 7 378 7174 | F: +64 7 378 7555 | M: +64 21 800 118
E: firstname.lastname@example.org W: www.acapulcotaupo.co.nz
Jess riding high during the South Island's summer months
Jess in ski-race action
Images by Dylan Foote
18 year old Jess Blewitt grew up in the
surf town of Mount Manganui, where
she found her love of the outdoors in
the ocean. But it was a move to the
South Island that flamed her passion for
the mountains. Jess has been creating
a stir in the world of downhill ski racing
and now mountain biking. We caught up
with Jess for a quick chat…
Can you tell us a little bit about how you
found your love in the outdoors? I lived in
Mount Maunganui and was a competitive life
saver at Omanu Surf Club in the summer. I
was a life guard during the holidays for the
2016/17 summer. But the lure to the snow
in the winter was greater than the surf. So as
you can see I have always had a competitive
nature and been in competitive sports from a
Mum and dad were keen skiers. They
never ski raced, but wanted to pass on their
passion for the sport of skiing to us. My first
race was a “Friday fun race” at Sunpeaks
in Canada. My Mum and her friend Jan,
were keen to get the local primary school at
Mount Maunganui, Omanu Primary school
involved in ski racing. So the Omanu Ski
team was formed and we trained and raced
for our primary school at Mount Ruapehu.
Fed up with travelling to the North
Island, and most events being
affected by weather, in 2013, Mum
and dad decided to relocate the
family for the winter to Queenstown.
Both my brother and I attended the
local primary school, Queenstown
Primary school and learnt to ski race
with QAST (Queenstown Alpine Ski
Team.) We did the winter relocations
for 5 years, before deciding in
January 2017 that we would make
a permanent move to Queenstown,
because “ why not”. Mum and dad
said if we didn’t like it, then we could
always move back. So I started my
Year 11 at Wakatipu High School with
my younger brother in Year 9 and
haven’t looked back.
I got introduced to downhill
mountain biking in 2018 and started
competitively in the 2019 season.
There are obviously a lot of
similarities between downhill ski
racing and downhill mountain
biking. Can you tell us about
the similarities and differences
between the two sports. Do you
have a preference? They are both
adrenalin sports involving high speed
and risk. The only difference is ski
racing is a “set course” with just snow
to land on, whereas mountain biking
has rocks, roots and dirt ! I definitely
prefer mountain biking as there is
always something different in terms
You have had successes in both
disciplines. What are some of
the highlights of each? Skiing:
Second overall in New Zealand in
my last year of Ski racing U16. Being
selected to race in Whistler Cup for
New Zealand in Canada in 2017,
even though I didn’t go.
Mountain Biking: NZ National
Championships 2020 and Oceania
Champ 2020. | No. 1 Junior at
Crankworks in 2020 and 2nd fastest
time overall, second to Tracey
Hannah, from Australia who is
currently No. 1 Elite Female ( 2019
overall World Cup series winner )
You planned to attend two world
cups this year, but Covid 19 had
other plans. What was supposed
to be happening and where? I had
intended on traveling to Maribor,
in Slovenia and Losinj, Croatia in
April/May 2020 with my family to
compete as a Junior and represent
New Zealand at these two World
Cups, and then following selection
for the NZ team for World Champs,
and then Covid 19 arrived and
Losinj, got cancelled and Maribor
got postponed until October. But
then everything got taken out of my
hands when an announcement was
made on the Cycling NZ website that
NO JUNIORS would be selected
for World Champs and unless you
were on a “trade team” that you
could not enter any of the remaining
World Cups. These Junior races
are so important in actually getting
“recognised” by the rest of the world
to get on these trade teams, so I was
really gutted that this decision had been
What have your experiences
been like in a predominately male
dominated sportor is that perception
changing? It is difficult, and especially
in New Zealand where there are not
many female riders. I truly want to ride
and race internationally where there are
a lot more female riders, inparticular I
would like to go to Canada and base
When you are not mountain biking,
what would we find you doing?
Skiing for fun.
Best/worse/funniest thing about
your life/sport? The first year I moved
down permanently to Queenstown for
Year 11, I tried my hand at Rowing
competitively. My coach told me I
wasn’t allowed to mountain bike, as I
kept getting injured. I was constantly in
the dog box….… My rowing days were
numbered anyway as the sport didn’t
appeal as it didn’t have the adrenalin
buzz or speed of which I love about my
How would your friends describe
you? Determined, focused,
Local places you like to ride. I
would really like to promote the sport
of Mountain Biking in Queenstown
and give a plug for riding at Skyline,
Coronet Peak, Heli Biking New
Zealand, Queenstown Bike Taxis ( for
shuttling up Rude Rock, Coronet Peak
and Clyde, Alexandra and TrailConnect,
based in Wanaka. Also the local enduro
trails at Five Mile, Queenstown and
Sticky Forest, Wanaka.
Where to in the future? The
immediate future is focusing on the
New Zealand 2021 racing season, as
my first year as an Elite racer.
The season kicks off at 440, MTB
Park in Auckland on the 24th January,
followed by the second round , at Dome
Valley, North of Auckland on the 31st
The 3rd Round is at Jentree, in
Marlbourgh, Blenheim on the 7th Feb,
with the final round at Coronet Peak,
Queenstown on the 13th February
The National MTB Championships
are to be held in Christchurch and the
Christchurch MTB Park on the 27th and
28th February. There has been no date
or venue set for Oceania’s for 2021
which will be in Australia in 2021.
With the uncertainty of racing next
year, due to Covid, I am going to start
University in 2021 in Wellington. I
have applied to do Architecture. My
dream is to transfer with a scholarship
to a Canadian University in 2022, and
continue my studies in Architecture
over there and ride and race as an Elite
female in the hopes of being in the top
10 in the world.
Have you had any significant
have helped along the way? What
role have they each played in your
success or even your love of the
outdoors? NZMTB coach - Gavin Key
who is based in Wanaka and volunteers
his time to the youth sport of mountain
biking has been a great support and
mentor for me, especially in relation to
the mental preparation for this sport.
Tracey Hannah - Number one Female
Elite DH Mountain Bike World Cup
series winner for the 2019 season
(AUSTRALIA). I was lucky to be
introduced to Tracey earlier this year
in Queenstown, when she was training
with her factory team, Polygon UR.
I got to do some training runs with
her at Skyline and Coronet Peak (of
which is now open for mountain biking
with a DH track and a XC track). This
year Coronet Peak, hosted one of the
National rounds and will again host
round 4 of the Nationals on the 13th
and 14th February 2021(XC and DH).
And of course my parents - they
have supported me financially and
emotionally through the ups and downs
of this sport.
COMES TIME TO
When you’re done exploring our beautiful backyard, there’s nothing better than coming home
and relaxing in the spa or in front of the fireplace. Choose from over 2,000 Bachcare holiday
homes across New Zealand as base for your next adventure. Use code: ADVENTURE50 for an
exclusive $50* off your next booking on bachcare.co.nz. Ts&Cs apply.
*Terms & Conditions: Voucher is vaild from
01.10.2020 to 30.11.2020 for stays from
01.10.2020 to 30.11.2020. Voucher can only be
redeemed on www.bachcare.co.nz. Voucher can
not be used with other vouchers or promotions.
Red Bull Illume Energy Category Entry
Photographer: Robin O'Neill
Athlete: Chris Rubens
Location: Pemberton, BC, Canada
Category finalist at the Red Bull Illume
58//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 Photo by Christian Heilwagen
This label went viral on Twitter,
but it was only the latest anti
-Trump call to action from
Patagonia. The company has
responded aggressively and
openly to the US government’s
environmental changes with
increasingly outspoken crusades
to protect the country and
indigenous public lands – is the
label protagonistic? Yes. Is the
message clear? Yes. Is it obvious
who it is aimed at? Yes.
But the question remains,
is this a real concern for the
environment or an extremely
subtle calculated form of
Outdoor companies are not
known for their subtly, but they
are known for what they believe
in. I honestly have to say it gave
me a certain feeling of pride
that some outdoor companies
are leading the way with these
controversial issues; not just with
recycled clothing and acceptable
employment conditions but also
being vocal in the political arena.
Basically as New Zealander’s we
are level-headed, and most of us
when we look at what is going on
in American politics, have gone
past being horrified and now we
just shake our heads and mutter
WTF. It has got to the point that
Vote the arseholes out
By Steve Dickinson
any logic attached to any US
political decision seems twisted.
And as the rest of the world in
union shakes its head, there
are a limited number of outdoor
companies (along with others)
trying with limited resources, to
make a difference.
Outdoors enthusiasts are not a
one size fits all group. They will
include mum and dad shopping
for a tent before the summer
holidays, fishermen picking gear
before a week at the coast,
skiers buying gloves before they
head up the mountain or people
buying boots for that longawaited
tramp. They cover all
political opinions and all political
diversities. But what they all have
in common is a propensity to
want to protect the places they
love and that is as evident in
New Zealand as it is in the US.
Just in the US, like most things in
America, it is a lot bigger and it
is a lot more evident as elections
Environmental activism and
advocacy is hardly new to many
outdoor companies, the industry
is becoming increasingly vocal
on specific topics; climate
change, land preservation,
indigenous rights, social media
‘stop hate’, ‘time to vote’ and
more recently BLM.
What is less clear is whether
this type of support from retail
companies actually changes
people’s minds or do they even
It is becoming more apparent
that customers, clients, and
employees are now looking
to companies to reflect values
alongside their products and to
actually make an open stand
on issues that are important to
them. We have seen clearly in
the BLM protests that the option
to stand still and do nothing is a
vote for the status quo and that
no stand or no participation is no
longer seen as an option.
The outdoor companies are very aware of
their customer base, and in most cases,
they know that their customers feel the
same way they do about key issues. But
is the company’s reaction to those political
agendas good salesmanship on the part
of the outdoor company, or a real unity of
vision? Unlike handbags and baked beans,
customers of key outdoor brands have a
deep and bonded relationship and loyalty
built on awareness, quality and in some
cases life and death situations. You buy a
Patagonia jacket or climbing rope because
you know it will do what it says it will do.
And out of that relationship comes loyalty
and trust which is now being leveraged
as a joint agreement to address some key
No outdoor retailer has been more
outspoken and leading the way other than
Patagonia. The Ventura-based company
has never been slow to throw the first
punch in a political fight. Founder Yvon
Chouinard is well known for his black and
white approach, he is the author of “You are
part of it’ and ‘The responsible Company’
and has been involved in several books
related to the environment, climate change
Since the 1980s Patagonia has given
1% of all sales revenue to environmental
causes and awarded over $89 million in
cash and in-kind donations to domestic
and international grassroots environmental
groups who are making a difference in their
The company’s disapproval of the
Trump administration began early in his
Patagonia had pushed for the
establishment of Bears Ears
National Monument in Utah,
supporting a campaign led by
Native American tribes seeking
to protect their ancestral lands.
President Obama created the
in late 2016. Eleven months
later, in early December of
2017, Trump reduced Bears
Ears by 85 per cent, an action
supposedly that Utah officials
and some residents wanted.
His rollback followed a uranium
firm’s concerted lobbying. It
was the largest reduction of
a national park in American
history and as you would
expect there was outrage.
The day after Trump announced
his decision to reduce Bears Ears
and Grand Staircase-Escalante
monuments, Patagonia replaced
its home page with an all-black
background and the stark message,
“The president stole your land.”
The ‘rollback’ is still in the courts –
including through a lawsuit filed by
Knowing it’s not just enough to
complain, in 2018 Patagonia
helped found a campaign called
‘time to vote’ which resulted in
more than 1,000 companies
across the U.S. economy (both
inside and outside the adventure
industry) committing to giving their
employees enough time to vote on
election day. As not having time to
vote was given as the main reason
for not voting. It was their way of
getting the people activated.
Currently, Patagonia is also urging
customers to “make a plan to vote,”
offering an app that uses home
addresses to help find a polling
place or learn how to vote by mail.
REI’s website features a similar
Is this political stand, this
outpouring always good for the
company? There have been
several ‘backlash’ incidents in such
a divided political environment, and
yes as with all political issues there
is always two or more side and
there is certainly a risk involved.
An example is Dick’s Sporting Goods,
a hunting and fishing store in the US,
that in the wake of the Parkland school
shooting in 2018, announced it would
restrict its gun sales. Unfortunately
there was a harsh backlash from
some customers and anti-gun control
agencies. Walmart also received
the same backlash when it reduced
gun sales. In 2015 Walmart removed
assault-style semi-automatic rifles from
its shelves. Then in 2018, two weeks
after the Florida Parkland high school
shooting where 17 people were killed,
Walmart changed the minimum buying
age from 18 to 21, and once again
there were severe backlash, protests
and calls for boycotts by customer and
anti-gun control groups.
There are plenty of voices among
conservatives to boycott Patagonia
as well, after the message that was
posted on their website which said ‘the
President stole your land’.
The official Twitter account of a U.S.
House committee used its platform to
bluntly accuse the outdoor clothing
retailer of lying to the public about
President Donald Trump's decision
to significantly reduce the protected
land of two Utah national monuments.
The House panel is chaired by Rep.
Rob Bishop, who has openly received
hefty donations over the years from the
oil and gas industry, according to the
Centre for Responsive Politics. Bishop
is also a staunch supporter of Trump's
agenda and votes in line with it roughly
94 per cent of the time.
The industry is becoming increasingly vocal on specific topics;
climate change, land preservation, indigenous rights, social media
‘stop hate’, ‘time to vote’ and more recently BLM.
60//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222
STRONG & LIGHT
Recently a handful of the biggest
names in outdoor gear suspended
ads across Facebook and
#Instgram for the month of July
as part of #StopHateforProfit,
an accountability campaign
demanding a set of changes
from Facebook around racism,
misinformation and other harmful
content on its platform. Over 1200
companies have been demanding
accountability, decency, and
support. You can read more about it
The campaign issued a set of
actionable demands for the company,
calling for Facebook to stop collecting
ad revenue from “misinformation and
harmful content,” demanding more
resources for users targeted by racism
and other forms of hate and asking
the company to provide moderators
for private groups. It almost the next
level of activism where companies are
trying to now get involved and using
the weight of their dollar investment
to prevent issues from developing or
Whether it is a subtle statement on a
clothing tag or protests over land rights
in a courtroom, outdoor companies are
leading the way for more than just how
they deal with manufacturing, product,
and chemicals to slow down climate
change. They have now rolled up their
sleeves to be part of the battle to ‘make
real change’ for the better and that is
something to be proud of.
One thing you will not find on Patagonia’s
website. The shorts with that provocative
tag. They are already sold out.
R A V E N 3 G T X
Designed to make light work of tough alpine terrain in variable conditions
a thirst for
The quintessential drink after a hard
day out in the cold is a ‘wee dram’,
whether out of a hipflask by the
campfire or sitting in a chair with a
crystal cut glass savouring a great day
with an equally great drink.
Whisky distilling in New Zealand was
born with the arrival of Scottish settlers
in the 1830s. Many Scots settled in
the Otago region and the industry
flourished here until the 1870s, when
onerous government regulations
effectively shut it down.
Things have changed now and there
are a range of great distilleries here in
Aotearoa, we have manged to create
some stunning products, we thought we
might share a few.
Milford Single Malts
The Milford range of Single Malt
were available in a 10, 15, 18 and
20-year-old, aged in oak casks.
Created in the splendid, remote
South Island, among the echoes
and reflections of the Scottish
Highlands and Western Isles,
Milford Is one of the world’s great
A of 70% single malt, and 30%
premium grain whisky made from
unmalted barley in the Dunedin
distillery. Aged for 21 years in
American oak, ex-bourbon casks. The
whiskey has a sort of sweetness to it
exceptionally smooth and clean body.
The distiller refers to it as having a chilli
pepper warmth giving way to a long
salty and sweet finish.
Cardrona Just Hatched
Solera Single Malt
The Cardrona Single Malt Whisky
"Just Hatched". A marriage of
ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks,
this "Just Hatched" Whisky
reveals Cardrona's underlying
character of borage flower honey,
vanilla, spice, it tastes great, it is
young but is an indication of the
adult whisky to come.
Oamaruvian 100 Proof
A Blend of 70% single malt, and 30%
premium grain whisky produced from
unmalted barley. Aged for 6 years in
American Bourbon barrels, before
finishing for 12 years in French Oak NZ
wine barrels, giving ruby colour and longlasting,
rich flavours. Plus it is in a very
Thomson Manuka Smoke
Made from 100% New Zealand grown
malted barley, smoked using Manuka
wood, and distilled through a hand
beaten copper pot still, Manuka Smoke
release in its youth. This ‘work in
progress’ bottling offers natural smoke,
cinnamon, clove, and Manuka oils.
No chill filtering No colouring – it is
absolutely delicious – and won few
prizes Silver New Zealand Whisky
Awards 2018 -Silver Outstanding medal
winner IWSC UK 2017 Gold Medal
winner San Francisco World Spirit
Thompson TWO TONE WHISKY
Silver New Zealand Whisky Awards 2018
Silver Outstanding medal winner IWSC UK 2017
Gold Medal winner San Francisco World Spirit
Two Tone refers to the two kinds of cask used for
the maturation of this whisky; European oak which
formerly held New Zealand red wine and American
white oak used exclusively for whisky. No colouring
won a few awards as well Silver New Zealand
Whisky Awards 2018, Silver Outstanding medal
winner IWSC UK 2017, Gold Medal winner San
Francisco World Spirit Competition 2016
Category finalist, Red Bull Illume 2020
Photographer: Christian Heilwagen
THE VANLIFE HIKER VIRUS
By Jessica Middleton
"Sometimes in life, the little moments amount
to be the biggest, and when jet-setting you miss
out on all the details in between."
Vanlife and any form of adventure go hand in hand, or foot and foot if you want to refer that
back to hiking. This is a perfect combination that just so happens to be peaking right now and
for good reason. Due to the effects of Covid-19, holidays and activities have been urged to be
taken locally and many people have seen this as a blessing in disguise. Money is being put
back into the economy and the environment is taking a break from the pressures of human
Is there such a thing as a good virus? One that's symptoms include spreading happiness,
elevated fitness, feelings of accomplishment, uplifted spirits, a clear head, and simply a pretty
sight for sore eyes? If so I'm calling it the TVH virus. 'The Vanlife Hiker'. A bug you might not
ever shake off but one you'll certainly want to keep in your system.
Many of our incomes have been affected by the other virus that shall not be named, and luckily
with the TVH combo, you can plan a getaway without breaking the bank. Are you starting to get
itchy feet? Now is the perfect time to be a tourist in your own country. When you travel by van,
a whole new world opens up to you, little hidden tracks and sparkling blue pools are waiting
to be discovered. Sometimes in life, the little moments amount to be the biggest, and when
jet-setting you miss out on all the details in between. On your next hiking spree do good by
supporting the locals and small businesses by checking out markets, cafes, or any other hidden
gems or activities on the way.
66//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 67
Although you and your van are BFFS, like any healthy
relationship it's imperative to have balance. Spending too much
time behind the wheel calls for a pitstop for both the vehicle and
you. It's time to stretch those legs, get the blood flowing, and
immerse yourself deeper into the wilderness.
This is where hiking in turn compliments a vanlife lifestyle.
They say "get your head out of the clouds" as if coming from a
negative context. Well, I recently had the pleasure of hiking to
the top of Mount Walsh in Queensland, Australia where my head
was so deep in the clouds I couldn't think more clearly if I tried.
There were no distractions, just the fresh air and my thoughts to
process. Which got me thinking it's vital for humans to be out in
nature, it puts thoughts into perspective as we are spending too
much time indoors. Hiking is a perfect activity to get involved in
whilst adhering to social distancing as there's plenty of land to
explore while avoiding populated areas. If you could fly your van
on top of mountains or deep into the valleys would you? Yes, so
why not let your feet do the walking, you'll seriously be surprised
at how wonderful a wanderlust lifestyle is.
Vanlife travel provides constant opportunity for reaching epic
destinations and hiking is one of the best ways to soak them all
in. Now, that's a perfect cocktail just waiting to be made for your
next holiday plans.
Hiking is a worldwide sport loved by many people and we are so fortunate in both New
Zealand and Australia to home some of the most renowned and iconic hiking trails. The
amazing perk to hiking is it requires minimal gear making this a low-cost expedition.
With a range of different levels of difficulty, it caters for all abilities appealing to almost
This is where Vanlife takes your hiking experience up a notch. Sure it transports
you to your hiking destinations but it also provides a home base in-between. I don't
blame some people for not wanting to hike sometimes, driving back long distances
after an adventure fuelled day can take its toll. Knowing your van is equipped with
all your favourites takes the edge off and turns what could be a daunting experience
into an enjoyable one. Having a van nearby your excursion brings comfort, whether
that be simply squeezing in a snooze in-between locations, cooking a meal to refuel,
or charging your electronics such as your camera battery to ensure good moments
are being captured. We installed a TV into our van and can honestly say after hiking,
cracking open a well-deserved drink and watching a movie is seriously rewarding.
Have you ever found you arrive at a hike to be enlightened that there are plenty more
trails to uncover? For instance, when we travelled to Karijini there were 5 gorges, we
definitely could not complete all 5 in a day, and paying for expensive accommodation
throughout that time was not viable either.
"It's vital for humans to
be out in nature, it puts
thoughts into perspective
as we are spending too
much time indoors."
Our van allowed us to discover each gorge in unpressured time and return to our van
Dusty to refresh, stoke the fire and watch the stars emerge upon twilight. It would
have been unnecessary paying for expensive accommodation regardless as we were
spending the majority of our time outdoors anyhow. Travelling via van extends your
holiday allowing you to achieve more with your time, no having to return home to
restock supplies. Want to get more bang for your buck? To put it into perspective, one
of our 6 week vanlife holidays cost the same as one of our trips 10 days abroad.
68//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222
FEED YOUR ADDICTION
Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and
development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are
made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole
new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s
online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able
drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are
a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.
Ultra lightweight running shoes, made by runners. No
matter where the trail takes you, Hoka One One will
have you covered.
Earth Sea Sky has more than 25 years experience
in New Zealand’s outdoor clothing industry. Their
experience in design, production and sales fills a
growing need in the market for outdoor clothing that
combined comfort, style and performance.
Never have a dead phone
again! Because now you can
charge straight from the Sun
with SunSaver. Perfect for
that week-long hike, day at
the beach, or back-up for any
emergency. Check us out at:
A leading importer and
distributor of snow and
outdoor products in New
Zealand. Stock includes
Salewa, Lange, Dynastar,
Spyder and more.
Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor
clothing, footwear and equipment from the best
brands across New Zealand & the globe.
Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel
& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &
casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.
The ultimate sandals
with core concepts like
durability, pull through
strap design and the ability
Full-service outfitter selling hiking
and mountaineering gear and
apparel, plus equipment rentals.
Specialising in ski & snowboard
touring equipment new & used;
skis, boards, bindings, skins,
probs, shovels,transceivers &
Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills
or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last
and engineered to perform — proudly designed and
tested in New Zealand since 1973.
The ultimate in quality outdoor clothing
and equipment for travel, hiking, camping,
snowsports, and more. Guaranteed for life.
Developing the pinnacle
of innovative outerwear for
50 years. Shop now and
never stop exploring.
Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional
outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.
Offering the widest variety,
best tasting, and most
nutrient rich hydration,
energy, and recovery
products on the market.
Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.
Stocking an extensive range
of global outdoor adventure
brands for your next big
adventure. See them for travel,
tramping, trekking, alpine and
lifestyle clothing and gear.
Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,
Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,
Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.
Jetboil builds super-dependable
backpacking stoves and camping
systems that pack light,
set up quick, and achieve
rapid boils in minutes.
Supplying tents and
camping gear to Kiwis
for over 30 years, Kiwi
Camping are proud to
be recognised as one of
the most trusted outdoor
brands in New Zealand.
Outdoor equipment store specialising in ski retail, ski
rental, ski touring and climbing.
Making great gear for the outdoors,
right here in New Zealand: high
quality items that have been
crafted with care to include all the
features that are important, nothing
superfluous and, above all, that
are more durable than anything out
there in the marketplace.
Choose your perfect holiday accommodation from the
largest selection of pre-serviced holiday homes, baches,
and apartments available for rent in New Zealand. Book
instantly online with Bachcare's real-time availability.
Excellent quality Outdoor
Gear at prices that can't
be beaten. End of lines.
Ex Demos. Samples. Last
season. Bearpaw. Garneau.
70//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 71
Back Country Cuisine
CHICKEN CARBONARA: A freeze dried
chicken and pasta dish, served in a creamy
italian style sauce. Available in small serve
90g or regular serve 175g sizes.
MUSHROOM BOLOGNAISE - VEGAN:
Mushrooms with tomato in a savory sauce,
served with noodles. Available in small
serve 90g or regular serve 175g sizes.
RRP $9.29 and $13.89
CHOCOLATE BROWNIE PUDDING: Our
take on chocolate self-saucing pudding,
with chocolate brownie, boysenberries and
chocolate sauce. Gluten Free. Available in
RRP 150g $12.89
Jetboil Flash 2.0
BOIL IN SECONDS, NOT MINUTES
Blistering boil times come standard on
our industry-leading Flash. By modelling
the combustion and selecting materials
to optimize efficiency, we were able to
create the fastest Jetboil ever — cutting
a full minute off our best boil time.
It's about cooking. MiniMo
delivers UNMATCHED simmer
control, metal handles, and a
low spoon angle for easy eating!
Starting with the innovative new
valve design, MiniMo delivers
the finest simmer control of any
upright canister system on the
Back Country Cuisine
ICED MOCHA: Our mocha is made with
chocolate and coffee combined with soft
serve to give you a tasty drink on the run.
Gluten Free. 85g.
FOR 21 YEARS
Wherever your next
adventure is about to
lead you, we’ve got
the goods to keep you
Deep creek harvest
Hemp Hash IPA
Seasonal release for the NZ
referendum. Cannabis and hops
are actually related. Both come
from the cannabaceae family.
They do share some physical
traits, such as appearance and
similar aromas. However they
differ on the chemical level. Both
produce terpenes; cannabis
terpenes are psychoactive, where
hops are purely for flavour, aroma
and bitterness. Hemp is a variety
of the Cannabis Sativa plant,
and has high concentrations
of CBD, the non psychoactive
cannabinoid.Hops and Hemp
oils have been shown to help in
relaxation, when consumed in
Chill, drink, & chill.
Deep creek haze
Hazy Pale Ale
Meet the newest member of
the Deep Creek team.
Haze is beautifully balanced,
with low bitterness and a ton
of juiciness. It's light bodied
and easy drinking with
tropical flavours of mango,
stone fruit and orange.
Sunshine in a can!
RRP $22.99 (6 PACK)
Gasmate 3L Watertech Portable Hot Water
Heats up to 3 litres per minute and features
adjustable temperature and water flow settings.
Handheld showerhead, gas fitting, automatic
ignition, and LED temperature display screen.
Jetboil Summit Skillet
Our new non-stick Summit Skillet packs the performance
of your kitchen pans into a trail-ready solution. Not only
does it improve your backcountry cooking versatility, the
turner nests into the handle for compact and lightweight
travel. After all, your meals on the trail deserve to be just
as good as your adventures.
KIWI CAMping Illuminator Light
with Power Bank
Light up the campsite with a bright 1000
Lumen LED with 5 lighting modes. The
hanging hook, built-in stand, and tripod
mount provide versatile positioning
options. Charges most devices.
Est. 1998 Back Country
Cuisine specialises in
a range of freeze-dried
products, from tasty
meals to snacks and
everything in between, to
keep your energy levels up
and your adventures wild.
Sunsaver Classic 16,000mAh
Solar Power Bank
Built tough for the outdoors and
with a massive battery capacity
you can keep all your devices
charged no matter where your
adventure takes you.
Sunsaver Super-Flex 14-Watt
Putting out over 2.5-Amps of output
on a sunny day you’ll charge your
phone and devices in no time at all,
straight from the sun.
Jetpower fuel contains a blend of propane and iso-butane.
Propane provides higher vapour pressure to the fuel which
means better performance in cold weather. Fuel efficiency
translates to weight, space, and money savings.
RRP $7.99 - $16.99
charmate 4.5 Quart Round Cast Iron Camp Oven Kit
Solid construction with thicker walls and base for consistent heat
transfer. Pre-seasoned and ready to use. Cool touch wire handle.
Includes lid lifter, trivet, gloves and storage bag.
KLYMIT INSULATED V ULTRALITE SL
Body Mapping Technology: Our patented V-shaped design
delivers support and comfort no matter how you sleep – on your
side, stomach or back.
Klymalite Synthetic insulation: Lightweight, compressible and
durable, advanced synthetic insulation in the chambers slows the
transfer of air between the top and bottom halves of the pad for
improved thermal performance.
Side Rails: Integrated into the patterning and construction, they
provide a secure, comfortable sleep by centering you on the pad
and inhibiting air movement while tossing and turning.
Deep Weld Patterning: Unlike traditional pads that flatten the
bag’s fill, Deep Welds create expansion zones that allow your
bag to fully loft beneath you for improved thermal comfort.
Weight 454 g, Dimensions 183 x 51 x 6 cm, Packed
Dimensions18 x 11 cm, Shell Material 20D polyester, R-Value 4.4
Macpac Olympus Alpine Tent
The Olympus is a two-person, four-season alpine tunnel tent with a
three-pole Multi-Pitch design. Perfect for snow camping, it’s got
dual entry points with a double door, internal mesh, DAC Featherlite
NSL poles, a spacious vestibule and snow flaps for keeping the
waterproof UV30 SI fly secure. The Torrentwear XP ‘tub’ floor
is seam sealed, while the fly requires manual seam sealing —
SilNet seam sealer is provided.Weight: 3.1 kg
Macpac Sololight Hiking Tent
Macpac’s lightest three-season hiking tent, the single-person
Sololight is perfect for camping below the snowline. Easy to
set up with a Multi-Pitch design, it’s got a spacious vestibule,
internal mesh and air vents for increased airflow. The UV20 PE
fly and ripstop nylon ‘tub’ floor are waterproof and factory seam
sealed, while the DAC Featherlite NSL poles are light and strong.
Weight: 1.29 kg
exped SynMat UL Lite Sleeping Mat (Medium)
Provides comfort and warmth in a very lightweight and small
package. Anti-slip GripSkin coating, welded through baffle
construction. Comes with a Mini Pump UL for easy inflation
and pack sack. 183cm x 52cm. 390gm.
KIWI CAMping Rover Lite Self-Inflating Mat
Compressible foam core inflates/deflates with the
twist of a valve. Tapered mummy design fits in
most sleeping bags. Durable soft stretch fabric for
extra comfort. Weight: 900gm
exped Outer Space III Tent
2- to 3-person 3-season tent with multiple modes to adapt to the
conditions and personal preferences. Features a giant, polesupported
front vestibule that easily shelters 3 people in camp
chairs, a lightweight table and backpacks. 3.3kg
KIWI camping weka 3 Hiker Tent
Spacious three-person tent with double entrances with
vestibules and roof loft storage. Fits in a backpack, ideal for all
year-round hiking. 4000mm aqua rated fly. 3-year warranty.
exped DeepSleep Duo 7.5 LW+ Sleeping Mat
Luxurious sleeping mat with edge-to-edge, 3D comfort for a
couple and 7.5cm-thick open-cell foam for excellent support.
Brushed 75D fabric is quiet and soft against your skin. 4.5kg
KLYMIT STATIC V LUXE
Body Mapping Technology: Our patented V-shaped design
delivers support and comfort no matter how you sleep – on your
side, stomach or back. Side Rails: Integrated into the patterning
and construction, they provide a secure, comfortable sleep by
centering you on the pad and inhibiting air movement while tossing
and turning. Deep Weld Patterning: Unlike traditional pads that
flatten the bag’s fill, Deep Welds create expansion zones that allow
your bag to fully loft beneath you for improved thermal comfort.
Weight: 771 g, full size 193 x 76 x 8 cm, Packed Dimensions 20 x
11 cm, Material 75D polyester
Marmot Catalyst 2P Tent
Designed as a roomy, livable tent that doesn't weigh you down,
the freestanding Catalyst 2-Person Tent has all the ideal features
for a casual camping trip. Its strategic clip placement offers more
interior volume for stretching out after a long day of adventuring. The
seam-taped catenary-cut floor and full-coverage vented fly add to its
weather protection, plus the included footprint protects this camping
tent from abrasions. Stash your pack, poles, and other gear in the
two vestibules and tuck a headlamp into the lampshade pocket for
ambient light at night.
Marmot Tungsten 3P Tent
Ready to adventure with you mile after mile, the freestanding
Tungsten 3-Person Tent blends durability, roominess and an
intuitively livable design. Strategic clip placement offers more
interior volume for stretching out after a long day on the mountain. If
a sudden downpour approaches, the color-coded "easy pitch" clips
and poles make for a quick set up, and the seam-taped catenarycut
floor and full-coverage vented fly add to its weather protection.
Dual doors allow easy entry and exit with vestibule storage space
around both doors.
Marmot Never Winter Sleeping Bag
The Never Winter is an ideal summer
bag for camping and river trips, but it
also has enough water-resistant 650-fill
down insulation to keep you warm and
protected when frost is in the air.
EN Temperature Rating: Comfort 3.6°C
/ Lower Limit -1.7°C / Extreme -17.8°C
Macpac Epic HyperDRY Down 600 Sleeping Bag
A lightweight alpine sleeping bag, the mummy-shaped
Epic 600 features water-resistant 800 loft HyperDRY
RDS goose down and ultralight Pertex® Quantum
fabric. It has horizontal baffles, a laminated draft tube
and a down collar with a recessed drawcord. It comes
with a waterproof vacuum seal sack and large mesh
storage sack. Temperature Rating: comfort -5°C, limit
-12°C, extreme -32°C.
Weight: 1091 g (ISO 23537-1 tested and weighed STD
Marmot Trestles 15 Sleeping Bag
The Trestles 15 is a reliable allpurpose
bag for everything from
weekend camping to days on the trail.
SpiraFil LT high loft insulation, wave
construction and 3D hood keep you
warm and comfortable, while a long
list of features gives you everything
you'd expect from 40 years of crafting
EN Temperature Rating: Comfort
-2.6°C / Lower Limit -8.9°C / Extreme
Marmot Sawtooth Sleeping Bag
The ultimate all-around bag, the Sawtooth blends just
the right down warmth with just the right weight and a
healthy measure of durability for an industry-leading bag.
The Sawtooth now features a water-resistant down to
improve performance and warmth in wet conditions.
EN Temperature Rating: Comfort -6.4°C / Lower Limit
-13.3°C / Extreme -33.1°C
exped Lite +1 Down Sleeping Bag (Medium)
Lightweight bag made with fabrics that feel
velvety soft, a watertight construction and highperformance,
800-loft European goose down fill
for warmth and comfort during the night. 780gm.
Macpac Overland HyperDRY Down 400 Sleeping Bag
Featuring a water-resistant 650 loft HyperDRY RDS duck
down fill and lightweight Pertex® Quantum fabric, the tapered,
semi-rectangular Overland optimises warmth with horizontal
baffles, a down collar and a draft tube. It has a side zip and
dome closure, and comes with a waterproof vacuum seal sack
and large mesh storage sack. Temperature Rating: comfort
-1°C, limit -7°C, extreme -24°C.
Weight: 1079 g (ISO 23537-1 tested and weighed STD size)
RAB MYTHIC 200 SLEEPING BAG
The pinnacle of innovation, the Mythic
200 Sleeping bag is an ultra lightweight
down sleeping bag with the best
warmth to weight ratio in the Rab range.
Designed for mountain activists looking
to reduce weight while moving through
the mountains, for use in warmer
conditions where weight and packsize
are crucial to success, such as long
multi day routes or summer trekking.
Pertex® Quantum 10 Denier Inner and
Outer, 900FP R.D.S Certified European
Goose Down, Rab® Fluorocarbon
free Hydrophobic Down developed in
conjunction with Nikwax® Trapezoidal
baffle chamber design, Mummy taper
KIWI CAMping Fave Chair
Compact and lightweight camping and events chair.
Padded double-layer 400/600D polyester, sturdy
steel frame, adjustable arms, and cup holder.
Supplied with carry bag. Weight limit: 100kg.
patagonia Nine Trails Pack 20L
For moving quickly and comfortably and
perfect for extra layers, hydration and
essentials. U-shaped lid provides easy
access, while mono-mesh is the most
breathable Patagonia’s ever made, and the
padded harness/waistbelt keep your load
comfortably centred. 4.2-oz 210-denier
CORDURA® 100% nylon ripstop with a DWR
Lowe Alpine Altus 42:47 & ND 40:45
The Altus 42:47, a versatile four
season hiking backpack that provides
great load support and stability.
Features include: extendable lid,
base and side compression straps,
adjustable back length, forward pull
hip belt adjustment, U-shaped front
opening and internal zipped divider,
front stash with large zipped pocket,
large stretch mesh side pockets,
TipGripper walking pole attachments,
HeadLocker axe attachment system,
and daisy chain lash points.
Lowe Alpine AirZone Camino Trek 30:40
The AirZone Camino Trek 30:40 is a
hiking backpack that keeps you cool and
comfortable, it is hydration compatible
including stretch water bottle side pockets,
an internal lid pocket, hip belt pockets,
TipGripper walking pole attachments, ice
axe loops, and double side compression for
stability. With top entry, zipped front panel,
and base entry with zipped divider panel for
easy access, an extendable lid increases
the volume by an extra 10 litres. Large
bellows side pockets provide additional
storage, and the versatile SpiderPlate
bungee system allows secure external
storage if required.
Marmot PreCip ECO Rain Jacket
On the 20th anniversary of our best-selling
PreCip Rain Jacket, meet the environmentally
conscious and high-performing next generation:
the lightweight PreCip Eco Rain Jacket. The
waterproof / breathable, PFC-free Marmot
NanoPro recycled nylon face fabric lasts longer
than ever, thanks to the advanced technology of
our microporous coating. Sturdier, more durable
than ever, and with a patented dry-touch finish,
this packable water-repelling jacket that stuffs into
its own pocket will become an everyday piece
that you can feel good in and about.
RAB momentum shorts
From steep climbs up jagged peaks to
traversing ridges, the Momentum Shorts
are designed for covering greater distances
at pace. Made from lightweight but durable
Matrix double weave fabric they offer full
freedom of movement when hiking, running
or scrambling in the mountains. Treated
with a DWR these shorts will repel water
during light showers and dry quickly.
Macpac Tempo Pertex® Rain Jacket
As a Pertex® Shield Air launch partner, Macpac is proud to introduce the
Tempo Rain Jacket — a lightweight, waterproof shell with an air permeable
‘electro-spun’ nanofiber membrane. Highly breathable, it has a seam sealed
Pertex® Shield Air 3-layer construction, a low-profile roll-away hood, a centre
zip with internal storm flap and dome tab, reflective detailing, a single-point hem
adjustment, thumb loops and a zipped chest pocket. The jacket packs into an
internal mesh pocket. Weight: 220 g (men’s size M) / 200 g (women’s size 10)
78//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#222
Lowe Alpine Airzone Pro 35:45 and ND 33:40
The NEW AirZone Pro 35:45 & ND33:40 backpack delivers ventilation and comfort.Featuring
our award-winning, fully adjustable AirZone+ carry system, with patented FormKnit
technology for all-day comfort and breathability,SpiderPlate adjustable bungee system, side
mesh pockets and multiple compression straps, there’s plenty of scope to carry an external
jacket, roll mat, walking poles and axe. The AirZone Pro ND33:40 has a zipped side entry
which delivers direct access to the main compartment, an integrated rain cover, plus a largecapacity
top pocket, seven litres of expandable lid volume, forward pull hipbelt adjustment
with zipped hipbelt pockets, internally adjustable back-length, breathable harness and
hipbelt, HeadLocker axe attachment system, secure TipGripper walking pole attachments.
patagonia Men's Cap Cool Trail Shirt
Patagonia's softest performance knit, it
keeps you cool and dry when you’re active,
while providing day-long, next-to-skin
comfort. It feels like cotton yet performs
with the wicking efficiency of polyester, plus
has HeiQ® Fresh durable odour control
and is Fair Trade Certified sewn.
RAB KINETIC PLUS JACKET
Designed with Kinetic, the Rab® innovation and
breakthrough in protection and flexibility, this jacket uses
our own Proflex fabric technology for maximum builtin
stretch. This allows incredible freedom of movement
when climbing and moving fast. With Kinetic, for the
first time, your outer protective shell clothing can have
unimpeded mobility as well as incredible comfort and
softness. Designed for day-long use in challenging,
changeable weather conditions, the Men's Kinetic Plus
Jacket has a waterproof component hidden inside: a
high performance, flexible membrane with a waterproof
measure of 10,000mm and an exceptional breathability
level in excess of 35,000cc/sqm/24hrs.
TARGHEE III MID Men’s
Out of the box comfort for your outside the box adventures. Our
iconic hiking boot for men brings an updated look to all-terrain
adventures. We carried over the fit, durability, and performance
of our award-winning Targhee waterproof boot and took its
rugged looks to a new dimension. Key features: • KEEN.DRY - A
proprietary waterproof, breathable membrane that lets vapor out
without letting water in. • METATOMICAL FOOTBED DESIGN -
This internal support mechanism is anatomically engineered to
provide excellent arch support and cradle the natural contours of
the foot. Available: Key outdoor retailers across New Zealand.
anatom Q3 Braeriach Trekking Boot
Durable, comfortable boot for ambitious adventures with
waterproof/breathable tri.aria membrane and Interface One
lining. Cushioned midsole and Vibram® Soparis outer-sole.
salewa MOUNTAIN TRAINER LITE MID GORE-TEX®
The MTN Trainer Lite Mid GTX is a 3-season boot for
technical hikes, and long backpacking routes in all weathers.
Its highly wear-resistant TPU-coated fabric upper has suede
inserts for stability and a GORE-TEX® Comfort lining for
durable waterproof protection. For additional stability and
protection, there is a flexible ankle cuff, heel stabilizer and
rubber toe cap.
Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 565 g (W) 465 g
Awards: Outside Magazine's 2020 Gear of the Year Award
salewa RAVEN 3 GORE-TEX® WOMEN'S SHOES
Designed to make light work of tough alpine terrain in variable conditions. Our Raven 3
GORE-TEX® mountaineering boot has an abrasion-resistant fabric upper to offer exceptional
stability, durability and performance, all in a lightweight construction. Inside, the waterproof
and breathable GORE-TEX® Performance Comfort lining delivers optimized climate comfort
even in changing weather conditions. Outside, the protective rubber rand and external
TPU toe cap increase comfort and protection in the long run, outperforming conventional
constructions. The Vibram® WrapThread Combi sole offers optimal grip, traction and
surefootedness over rough, steep terrain without compromising on comfort, while the smooth
climbing zone at the toe promotes precise footwork. At the heart of the boot, the stiff nylon
carbon loaded fibreglass insole ensures good crampon compatibility, while the Bilight Midsole
is designed with material properties and an ergonomic shape to provide superior shock
absorption for the lifetime of the shoe. Flexibility, heel support and a precise blister-free fit
come courtesy of the SALEWA 3F System, 3D Lacing allows you to fine-tune at the toes and
midfoot, and the Multi Fit Footbed Plus (MFF+) with interchangeable layers gives you greater
customisation for your feet.
• 3F System
• Climbing Lacing
• MFF+ Footbed
• Cleansport NXT ®
• Flex Collar
• Drop: 15 mm (Heel
Stack Height 35 mm
• Stack Height 20
• Weight: (M) 829 g
(W) 629 g - pictured
• Insole: Stiff: Nylon
+ 27% Fiberglass /
• Midsole / Crampon
• Lining: GORE-
• MIDSOLE: TPU
• Outsole: Vibram®
• Upper: Suede /
/ Highly wearresistant
SALEWA CROW GORE-TEX®
The Crow GTX is a versatile boot designed for mixed use on
general alpine terrain, featuring an abrasion-resistant fabric
upper with a GORE-TEX ® Performance Comfort lining, a
semi-automatic crampon-compatible Vibram ® New Mulaz
outsole, and a full rubber rand for protection against rock and
Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 675 g (W) 570 g
TARGHEE III MID woMen’s
The Targhee Boot is ready for any hike, anytime. Our
iconic hiking boot for women brings an updated look to allterrain
adventures. We carried over the fit, durability, and
performance of our award-winning Targhee waterproof boot
and took its rugged looks to a new dimension. Key features:
• KEEN.DRY - A proprietary waterproof, breathable membrane
that lets vapor out without letting water in.
• METATOMICAL FOOTBED DESIGN - This internal support
mechanism is anatomically engineered to provide excellent
arch support and cradle the natural contours of the foot.
Available: Key outdoor retailers across New Zealand.
MERRELL Moab 2 Mid - Men’s
Worn the world over. The Moab has been the world’s
best-selling hiking boots for over a decade. The
reasons are clear. Famous out-of-the-box comfort
and all-purpose versatility make it the choice of hikers
around the world.
salewa MOUNTAIN TRAINER LITE MID GORE-TEX®
Our MTN Trainer Mid GTX is a lightweight alpine trekking
boot with a suede leather upper and a waterproof breathable
GORE-TEX® Performance Comfort lining. At the ankle, the
Flex Collar allows natural movement and the 3F System
provides flexibility, support and a blister-free fit. Underfoot we
feature a dual-density Bilight TPU midsole and a Vibram®
WTC outsole. Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 700 g (W) 570 g
Hoka One One Challenger Mid
The Challenger Mid GORE-TEX®
delivers on every surface from trail to
road. It features a waterproof Nubuck
leather upper for a clean look and
an anatomical mid-cut collar for
support. It also features a GORE-
TEX® waterproof bootie to keep
your feet dry in a variety of
Hoka One One Kaha GTX
Named for the Māori word for
strength and support, the Kaha
GTX delivers both. With surprising
speed, it makes the ups easier and
the downs quicker. When hiking over
long distances, this trekking shoe will
deliver you to your destination in
comfort and safety.
AND BE IN THE DRAW TO WIN ONE OF FIVE
TAIAO THERMOS TRAVEL FLASKS
YOU WILL HAVE NOTICED THIS NEW BRANDING
IN ADVENTURE ‘TAIAO’
TAIAO MEANS IN MAORI; NATURAL WORLD,
ENVIRONMENT, NATURE, COUNTRY. AS WE
FOCUS MORE INWARDLY IN NEW ZEALAND WE
HAVE DECIDED TO DEVELOP A BRAND THAT
REFLECTS THAT; THAT IS REFLECTIVE OUR
WORLD, OUR COUNTRY OUR ENVIRONMENT.
SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER 2 GORE-TEX ®
The MTN Trainer 2 is the perfect alpine approach solution for
technical hikes. This hard-wearing and versatile low-cut shoe
has a high-quality 1.6-millimetre suede leather upper, a GORE-
TEX® Extended Comfort lining, full protective rubber rand for
360° abrasion resistance in rocky terrain and a Vibram MTN
Trainer EVO outsole.
Fit: Standard / Weight: (M) 458 g (W) 396 g 4 g
THE PRODUCTS WILL BE BEAUTIFUL AND
PRACTICAL, THIS IS ONE OF OUR FIRST
PRODUCTS THE TAIAO FLASK
NOT EVERYONE WANTS A SIPPY CUP – IF YOU
PUT THEM IN YOUR PACK IT IS BOUND TO LEAK.
BUT THESE 500ML THESE STAINLESS TAIAO
THERMOS FLASKS ARE THE PERFECT TRAVEL
COMPANION. THEY WILL KEEP WHATEVER
YOU PUT INSIDE HOT OR COLD FOR HOURS.
WE ADDED A LITTLE EXTRA FILTER CHAMBER
WHERE YOU CAN ADD YOUR OWN BEVERAGE
AND EASILY REMOVE IT. THEY COME IN A
RANGE OF COLOURS AND WILL ONLY BE
THESE ARE NOT AVAILABLE TO BUY YET – BUT
THEY WILL BE SOON.
TO SUBSCRIBE VISIT
Chaco Odyssey Sandal
Overcome rivers, trails, and expectations. The allterrain,
closed-toe Odyssey sport sandal delivers the
durability of a hiker, the freedom of a barefoot trainer,
and the performance you need from land to water.
Chaco Z/CLOUD Sandal
Want your Classic Sandals with pillow-top comfort?
Introducing our travel-ready Z/Cloud series, featuring
our same custom adjustable strap system, performance
ChacoGripTM rubber outsole, and a top layer of ultra-soft
PU for instant-cushion underfoot.
MERRELL Nova 2 - Men’s
Featuring lightweight comfort and hiker-like durability,
Nova 2 is built to take you places sneakers can’t.
Crush Trails Not Treadmills.
MERRELL Antora 2 - Women’s
Featuring lightweight comfort and confidence-boosting
support and traction, Antora 2 is uniquely tailored
to women ready to go places sneakers can’t. Burn
Daylight Not Calories.
Reach for the remote
2020 has made us all appreciate what’s in our own backyard -
we’ve had to due to border restrictions preventing us from going
anywhere else! As the world starts to slowly reopen, and as
travellers make more conscious decisions about where they want
to travel to next, we want to pose a question to you - why is it that
Australia’s closest neighbour, a mere 150km to the north of Cape
York, is so mysterious to us and so often overlooked. We bet you
didn’t know that Papua New Guinea was that close, nor that it is
home to over 8 million people who speak more than 800 different
languages. As one of the most culturally diverse countries in the
world, we should count ourselves lucky to have all of this rich
culture right on our doorstep. Add to that an incredibly untouched
natural paradise, paired with adventures only your wildest dreams
could think up. So, as we all rethink our travel plans in a post-
COVID world, we present to you 10 reasons why you should add
Papua New Guinea to your 2021 bucket list.
GET YOUR HEAD
IN THE CLOUDS
REACH FOR THE REMOTE
CLIMB ONE OF THE SEVEN SUMMITS
As the world starts to slowly reopen, and as travellers make more conscious
decisions about where they want to travel to next, we pose the following
question – how about travelling to Australia’s closest neighbour, a mere
150km to the north of Cape York?
Remote natural beauty and rich diverse culture abounds right on your
doorstep. Have you added Papua New Guinea to your 2021 bucket list yet?
1. ESCAPE FROM IT ALL ON A REMOTE PRIVATE ISLAND
The Conflict Islands are made up of 21 privately owned,
pristine and completely uninhabited islands covering a
total landmass of 375 hectares (or 3.75km square). At the
Conflict Islands Resort you’ll find just six private beachfront
ensuite bungalows, situated on the main island of Panasesa.
There’s also a main house where guests can enjoy peace
and tranquility whilst enjoying delicious fresh-caught local
food, refreshing drinks, free wi-fi (if you want it), a stunning
beachfront deck and a balcony overlooking the stunning
archipelago and lagoon waters, with colours like no other
place on earth. There aren’t many places in the world where
you can truly escape in paradise quite like this.
2. TREK OCEANIA`S HIGHEST VOLCANO
Papua New Guinea’s second highest mountain, Mount
Giluwe (4,367m), is part of a volcanic massif. The original
volcano on the site of Mount Giluwe formed roughly
650,000–800,000 years ago, probably as a stratovolcano
of similar height to the current peak. One of the Volcanic
Seven Summits of the world, the usually five-day trek passes
through vast grassland and alpine landscapes.
3. DISCOVER PNG’S COLOURFUL COASTAL CULTURE
Divers and snorkellers have been coming to Milne Bay
and the Tufi Fjords (yes Papua New Guinea has its own
fjords!) for decades, but culture-seekers have only recently
cottoned on to this unique part of the world. Alotau is the
capital of the Milne Bay region, and plays host to the annual
Kenu and Kundu Festival each November - a lively and
colourful cultural display of war canoe racing and ‘singsings’
(traditional dances). Year-round you can discover harrowing
skull caves, and can also learn to cook (and enjoy) a Mumu
feast (a traditional meal of local produce cooked in the earth).
Up the coast in Oro Province are the Tufi Fjords, home to the
world’s largest butterfly (the Queen Alexandra Bird Wing; with
wingspans of up to 28cm). Visitor participation in traditional
daily life is welcomed by the local villagers, who will happily
show travellers how to build traditional homes and canoes
from sago palms, and how to hunt and gather for food.
Check out Alotau International Resort, Driftwood
Resort, Tawali Leisure & Dive Resort and Tufi Resort for
accommodation and tours. Or book through Travel & Co and
they’ll organise it all for you.
Find your remote at www.papuanewguinea.travel
No Roads Expeditions, Paiya Tours, PNG Holidays and Trans
Niugini Tours all offer guided treks.
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Milne Bay Kenu and Kundu Festival
7. CLIMB ONE OF THE SEVEN SUMMITS
At 4,509m, Mount Wilhelm is not only
the highest mountain in Papua New
Guinea, but is also the highest point in
all of Oceania. Despite its height, Mount
Wilhelm is actually the country’s most
accessible mountain to climb. Usually
a 3-4 day hike (accessible from Mount
Hagen) including overnight stays at camps
/ villages along the way, the expedition will
find you crossing rivers, climbing through
moss forests, alpine grasslands and glacial
valleys. Generally trekkers summit before
sunrise to truly enjoy the view out to the
north coast and surrounding valleys, and if
you’re lucky enough you might even get to
spot a beautiful bird of paradise too.
Buna Treks & Tours, Escape Trekking
Adventures, No Roads Expeditions,
PNG Highland Adventures and PNG
Trekking Adventures all offer guided treks,
incorporating stays at Betty’s Lodge.
8. EXPLORE AUSTRALIA’S CLOSEST
NEIGHBOUR BY SHIP
Prior to COVID, Papua New Guinea was
fast becoming one of Australia’s and
New Zealand’s fastest growing cruise
destinations; featuring on the schedules
of large-ship brands like Carnival, Cunard,
P&O, Princess and Silversea, as well as
small expedition-ship brands like Coral
Expeditions, Heritage Expeditions, Linblad
Expeditions and True North.
9. A RITE OF PASSAGE
Trekking world-famous Kokoda is not only
a 96km physical endurance challenge,
it’s also a spiritual journey retracing the
footsteps of the thousands of Aussie
Diggers who were killed or injured
defending Australia. Tours range from
6-12 days based on speed and fitness
levels, and trekkers can also choose to
trek from Poppendetta to Owers Corner
or trek the reverse route. It is worth noting
that Australia’s wartime history with Papua
New Guinea extends beyond just the battle
of Kokoda; the battle of Milne Bay was
another key feat in Australia’s efforts to
protect its sovereignty from the invading
Japanese during WWII. 2020 marks the
75th anniversary of the end of the war in
the Pacific, and the allied forces win. While
international travel has prevented many
from commemorating the anniversary this
year, they remain committed to ensuring
this important part of history is still
remembered (albeit a year later).
See Kokoda Track Authority for a full listing
of trek operators running guided tours. If
you are not keen on trekking Kokoda, but
still wish to pay your respects, then a visit to
the Bita Paka War Cemetery near Rabaul,
and the Bomana War Cemetery in Port
Moresby is a must.
10. CATCH AN ILLUSIVE BLACK BASS
OR DOGTOOTH TUNA
Papua New Guinea’s untouched rivers
and lakes, and isolated coastal waters,
offer some of the best lures in the world.
From the challenge of catching a ‘lure shy’
Papua New Guinea Black Bass in remote
rainforest- lined rivers, to showing off a
prized Dogtooth Tuna or Marlin catch out
at sea, Papua New Guinea has got to be
on the bucket list of all fishing enthusiasts.
And with 2020 being a write-off, the fishing
stocks have had a year to fully replenish -
2021 is set to be the biggest and best year
Check out Baia Sportfishing Lodge,
Bensbach Wildlife Lodge, Lake Murray
Lodge, Liamo Reef Resort and Uluai Island
Bungalows for accommodation and tours.
Or check out one of the fishing liveaboards,
MV K20 or MV Ultimate One. For organised
guided tours check out Angling Adventures.
And that’s just a few of the million different
journeys available within Papua New
Guinea. Find your own adventure at
4. ADVENTURE ACROSS REMOTE
New Britain and New Ireland islands in
the Bismarck Sea are popular with divers,
surfers, history buffs and adventure
seekers alike. These two easy-to-get-to
islands are perfect for first-time visitors to
Papua New Guinea. In West New Britain
Province (accessible by flight to Kimbe) you
can hike to the top of the active Gabuna
Volcano crater, relax in a natural spa-like
thermal hot river or visit the local firefly
trees at night and see the rainforest light
up. At the other end of the island in East
New Britain Province (accessible by flight
to Rabaul), a world of history awaits; from
hidden Japanese WWII war tunnels and
Admiral Yamamoto’s famed buker, to the
ash-covered remains of old Rabaul town
(destroyed by the nearby Mount Tavurvur
volcanic eruption of 1937). And over
on New Ireland (accessible for flight to
Kavieng) you can go on a 5-day cycling
adventure, travelling down the length of
the 260km mostly-flat Bulominski Highway,
stopping to rest at traditional village
homestays along the way.
Check out Walindi Plantation Resort
near Kimbe, Kokopo Beach Bungalow
Resort and Rapopo Plantation Resort
near Rabaul, and Lissenung Island Resort
and Nusa Island Retreat near Kavieng for
accommodation and tours. Or experience
the Fire Dance Festival whilst you’re in
Rabaul with Intrepid.
5. DISCOVER HIDDEN HIGHLAND
Mount Hagen and Goroka are the main
tourism hubs within the remote highlands of
Papua New Guinea. From here, a colourful
world awaits, brimming with illusive tribes
that still to today remain mostly hidden from
the rest of the world. Visit Goroka and you’ll
be met with an array of coffee and cocoa
(chocolate) plantations; the rich aroma filling
the air. But scratch beneath the surface and
you’ll discover unique local tribes where
traditional customs remain alive and well;
like the haunting Asaro Mudmen famed for
their spooky mud masks, and the Korekore
Tribe who are best known for their Moko
Moko (or ‘sex’ dance). Over in Mount
Hagen, which plays host to one the oldest
and most spectacular cultural shows, the
annual Hagen Cultural Show, you’ll also
discover the Diugl Village and the spooky
Mindima Skeleton Dancers, as well as the
nearby colourful Huli Wigmen.
Check out Ambua Lodge, Bird Of Paradise
Hotel & Apartments, Highlander Hotel
& Apartments and Rondon Ridge for
accommodation and tours, or go on a
scheduled guided tour with Crooked
Compass, Eclipse Travel or PNG Holidays.
Or to journey further into hard-to-reach lost
worlds check out Oceania Expeditions.
6. GO ON A SURFING PILGRIMAGE
Forget Bali with its overcrowded beaches;
thanks to Papua New Guinea’s worldrenowned
Surf Management Plan, the
number of surfers on any one break is
capped, so you’ll never be stuck waiting
to catch the perfect wave - plus locals are
still able to surf their own breaks. Surfing
is idolised in Papua New Guinea, as are
visiting pro surfers. You’ll be just as likely to
see locals surfing on hand-carved planks
of timber, as you will Taylor Jensen (who
won the 2017 Men’s Kumul PNG World
Longboard Championships). Or even no
one at all! And when you’re done surfing,
there’s plenty of islands, waterfalls, caves
and volcanoes to explore. The north coast
of Papua New Guinea is our pick for keen
surfers (it’s also a fishing and diving /
snorkelling paradise too). Stretching for
over 500km, the northern coastline of
Papua New Guinea’s mainland is as chilledout
as it comes. Here you’ll find sleepy port
towns and seaside villages (like Vanimo,
Wewak and Madang) that offer the perfect
respite for those who’ve just adventured to
the nearby highlands or Sepik River. Spend
the day paddling across aqua-clear waters
to nearby deserted islands, explore local
caves and waterfalls, or tuck into some
fresh locally-caught seafood.
Check out Tupira Surf Club and Vanimo
Surf Lodge, or go on a scheduled guided
tour with World Surfaris or No Limit
Adventures. Other notable mentions for
keen surfers include Nusa Island Retreat
and Rubio Retreat, both in New Ireland
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Camping Koueney Chez Loulou et Lelene © Marine Reveilhac
Camping in NewCaledonia
Notchup © Drones.nc / NCTPS
Like many of its South Pacific island counterparts,
New Caledonia is home to a range of
spectacular hotels and resorts, complete with
lush accommodations, postcard perfect pools,
world class restaurants and more. However, for
adventurous travellers looking to get off the beaten
track or explore the destination like a local, New
Caledonia is also surprisingly great for camping.
Despite being a relatively small land mass (when
compared to somewhere like New Zealand), New
Caledonia is brimming with spots to pitch a tent,
and plenty of experiences to have along the way.
Here’s a 101 to camping in New Caledonia. Firstly,
the fun part: picking a campsite!
WHERE TO STAY:
When it comes to camping in New Caledonia,
there are campsites on the beach, in the forest,
in the bush…you name it. Here are five fantastic
options to consider:
CAMPING KOUÉNEY CHEZ LOULOU ET LÉLÉNE
This campsite is situated on the Isle of Pines, in a tuckedaway,
peaceful park overlooking Kouéney Beach. It’s
run by Jean-Louis and Hélène Josse, and campers are
welcome to cook their own meals or have them provided
by the Josse family, who cook over an open fire using local
produce. Jean-Louis and Hélène also offer transfers to and
from the Isle of Pines airport.
Address: Plage de Kouéney, Île des Pins, 98832
Tel: +687 78 32 28
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Kayaking at Hienghène © Marine Reveilhac
Îlot Tenia sunset © Valérie Blondin
Le rêve de Némo © JC Robert
Van-Away offers campervans and minibuses for hire @ Van-Away
Gîte Iya at Yaté © Oneye Production
BABOU CÔTÉ OCEAN
Located in the Koulnoue Kanak tribal village,
on New Caledonia’s north-east coast, the
Babou Côté Ocean campsite offers travellers
striking views of the north’s rainforests and
UNESCO World Heritage Listed lagoons,
as well as a wide range of activities – such
as kayaking, diving, snorkelling, hiking
and more. The campsite also has camping
equipment available for hire.
Address: Hienghène, Le Koulnoué, 98815
Tel: +687 42 83 59
WILD CAMPING ON ÎLOT TÉNIA
This is one for the adventurous traveller!
Îlot Ténia is a small island located off
Boulouparis, on New Caledonia’s West
Coast, in the midst of some of the most
striking parts of the destination’s UNESCO
World Heritage listed lagoon. The island
is available to visit for the day, but also to
camp overnight. It’s more of a “wilderness”
experience than other sites - campers will
need to bring all equipment, including wood
for a fire and food to cook – however, the
views over the lagoon are unmatched.
Transfers to the island and camping are
bookable through taxi boat company, Bout
Address: Boulouparis, Ouenghi, 98812
Tel: +687 76 42 38
LE RÊVE DE NEMO
Le rêve de Nemo camping site is situated at
Poé Beach, on New Caledonia’s west coast,
nearby to Bourail. It sits opposite the lagoon,
and offers striking sunset views set to the
soothing sounds of crashing waves. There
is also an onsite snack bar and comforts
such as large and clean toilets and showers.
Travellers also have the option of renting
accommodation, such as Sahara tents.
Address: Bourail, Poé, 98870
Tel: +687 46 44 64
This campsite is situated within the
Touaourou Kanak tribe, nestled amongst
palm trees on the lagoon shores. Gîte Iya
has a great ‘table d’hôte’ (which is the name
given to family-run or local-run restaurants),
offering visitors the chance to taste New
Caledonian specialities and seafood. There
is also the option to visit a nearby farm and
for those travelling without camping gear,
there are furnished cabins available for hire.
Address: Tribu de Touaourou, Yaté, 98834
Tel: +687 46 90 80
While New Caledonia’s international airline, Aircalin,
has great policies for bulky luggage and sporting
equipment, it’s understandable that travellers may not
want to haul camping gear all the way overseas.
Luckily, there are a few options. In capital city,
Noumea, sporting goods store Decathlon sells all
equipment needed for camping, as well as activities
travellers may want to enjoy while in the great
outdoors, like hiking, biking and more.
There are also options to hire equipment, if preferred.
Companies like Tour Du Monde will hire out tents
and bedding. Some campsites may even have gear
available for hire. Another option is to book a guided
tour or experience, where equipment is supplied. For
example, Gecko Evasion runs overnight camping
experiences on New Caledonia’s West Coast, and all
equipment and meals are included in the experience
New Caledonia’s roads are well paved and
maintained, making driving around the destination’s
Grande Terre, or main island, easy.
Hire cars are available to pick up upon arrival into
New Caledonia’s international airport, in Noumea, the
territory’s capital city, and at a handful of spots across
its main island. It’s recommended travellers book a
hire car in advance – while a cosmopolitan destination,
New Caledonia is smaller than New Zealand and there
are fewer hire cars available.
In exciting news for adventurous travellers, New
Caledonia last year saw the launch of its first camper
van hire company. Van-Away offers both campervans
and minibuses for hire, just outside of Noumea.
If looking to camp on the Loyalty Islands or Isle
of Pines, travellers will need to book a flight with
domestic airline, Air Caledonie - both are just a short
distance from Noumea. The Isle of Pines is also
accessible via ferry (Ferry Betico); the crossing takes
about three hours.
A few final must-knows:
• Travellers are advised to stay only in designated
• Booking in advance is required for the majority of
• Travellers are advised to be mindful of local tribes
and customs – when visiting a tribe, it’s respectful
to ask permission first and to do a coutume, or
the presentation of a gift. Travellers should pay
attention if they think they’ll be going into any
tribal areas, and are recommended to contact a
local guide or the local tourism office to organise
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Top Hikes on the Outer Islands of Vanuatu
Vanuatu’s outer islands offer more than just world-renowned snorkelling, remote beaches and
palm trees, they’re home to some of the most spectacular, adrenaline-pumping treks in the
Pacific Islands. So grab your hiking boots and get ready for an adventure you’ll never forget.
Manbush Trail - Malekula
This four-day hike will take you from the
east of Malekula to the west, hiking over
lush and mountainous terrain, into remote
island villages, and through farmland
and rivers. Make sure you pack suitable
wet weather gear for this hike and sturdy
waterproof hiking boots or hiking sandles.
The last thing you want is wet socks for
four days! There will be guides to carry your
backpack. On day one, you’ll hike 1.5-2
hours from Unua to the dense bushland in
Melken, ascending only 10m, easy!
On day two, you’ll hike for 7 hours from
Melken to Mt Laimbele, ascending
650m and descending 170m. From
this breathtaking rainforest you’ll get a
glimpse of the volcanoes on Ambrym, a
neighbouring island. You’ll likely spend the
evening eating bush-tucker around a fire,
before retiring to your mat on the floor of a
handmade bush hut.
On day three, expect another 8-hours of
walking from Mt Laimbele to Lebongbong,
with similar terrain to the day before. Keep
your eyes peeled for wild cattle and birdlife.
You’ll be treated to seasonal bush food,
likely nesowong, which is a meal made from
bush banana, water taro and coconut milk.
On the final day, day four, you’ll hike 9-10
hours. It’s a day of descent (1140m!), so get
those hiking poles and knees ready. You’ll
pass by several banyan trees - giants of the
forests, with roots that envelop their trunks.
You’ll also see a giant waterfall, explore
a spring in a cave and visit a nakamal (a
traditional meeting place) before bunkering
down in the village of Yawa for a shower
and a comfortable bed.
A ni-Vanuatu tour guide and tourist walks across a river, Malakula Island,
Malampa province, Vanuatu. Photo: Vanuatu Tourism Office/We Are Explorers
Dogs Head Trail - Malekula
This three-day coast-to-coast traverse through
wild bushland extends from the north east to the
north west of Malekula Island. It’s a strenuous
hike, but a rewarding one. You’ll have the unique
opportunity to be introduced to the Big Nambas
territories and be totally removed from the modern
world that you’re used to. Don’t expect electricity
and flushing toilets, expect huge smiles and
generous spirits. Revel in the villages built almost
entirely from bamboo and palm thatch. At the end
of the three-day trek, jump into the Pacific Ocean
to cool off on Malekula’s west.
Musicians plays traditional music for Pitin Mask dancers, Malekula Island,
Malampa province, Vanuatu. Photo: Vanuatu Tourism Office/We Are Explorers
A couple views the crater of Mount Yasur volcano at dusk, Tanna Island, Vanuatu.
Lake Letas & Mt Garet - Gaua
On the island of Gaua lies one of Vanuatu’s
most remote and active volcanoes. This threeday
adventure involves crossing Lake Letas in
a rigger canoe before a steep, exposed climb
up to the rim of Mt Garet. It’s only an hour up
to the top, but it’s a difficult one, so get your
walking sticks ready and keep your feet firmly
on the path despite moments of terror.
You’ll have the opportunity to camp in small
bungalows at Victor’s Camp, right on the lake.
Victor’s a vivacious and jovial character who’ll
tell you stories under dim lamplight, share
shells and shells of kava (watch out!) and,
together with his wife, feed you until you’re as
full as can be.
On the hike back down, you’ll visit Vanuatu’s
highest waterfall, Siri Waterfall, which boasts
a 120m drop. This is a wet walk, so make sure
you’ve got sturdy hiking sandals or boots.
Vanuatu hopes that Lake Letas becomes a
Unesco world heritage site.
Mount Yasur - Tanna
From an active volcano to the world’s largest banyan tree, this is an
unmissable three-day trek on Tanna island in the Tafea province. Tanna
island people are bare-foot walkers, and will guide you from natural hot
springs surrounded by overgrown rainforest to white-sand beaches with
pounding surf and volcanic black-sand planes.
From the base to the summit of Mt Yasur is an easy to moderate 3.5-hour
round trip on foot across expansive ash plains. While there is an option to
drive, we really encourage the hike! This is best done at night as you’ll have
the opportunity to witness the red glow of lava under a dark night sky.
Mt Yasur is one of Vanuatu’s most dramatic booming visitor attractions –
the volcano is a female deity and she is revered by the people of Tanna
Island with many cultural stories revolving around her power. As such
visitors walking up the volcano pay an entrance fee that is shared with the
community. For more information visit or chat with the good folks at Entani
who manage the volcano visits.
Nguna Full Day Adventure - Nguna
If you’ve got a few days in Port Vila, the hike
up Nguna island’s highest extinct volcano (Mt
Taputaora, 593m) is a must-do. You’ll need to
catch a ride from your accommodation on Port
Vila to Emua Wharf before catching a boat over
to Nguna in order to start this hike.
It begins slowly, with a gradual incline, passing
through small villages with children who will run
out to greet you. The final leg is hard, and steep.
You’ll be exposed to the sun and it’ll be hot. Make
sure to wear a hat!
As you summit the volcano, you’ll be treated to
expansive views across the Shepherd Islands to
the north, and south to Efate. Afterwards you’ll be
offered a buffet lunch by the beach and a snorkel
along the Nguna coastline to cool off.
Aerial view of Nguna Island, Shefa Province, Vanuatu. Photo: Vanuatu Tourism Office/Nicolas Jupille & Louise Levrat
For more information on amazing Hikes in Vanuatu
www.vanuatu.travel or www.vanuatuecotours.com
A ni-Vanuatu chief and tourist on the Mount Garet volcano hike, Gaua Island, Torba province, Vanuatu.
Photo: Vanuatu Tourism Office/We Are Explorers
A C T I V E
a d v e n t u r e
THE TROUT HOUSE
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A rare opportunity to own a share in a unique ski lodge situated in the heart of Ohakuni. 39
South Lodge is a privately owned ski lodge and is for the exclusive use of its 100 shareholders,
and family members. The lodge is very comfortable and well-appointed and is run in a similar
manner to a ski club, but with each member owning a share.
Central to the culture and successful functioning of the lodge is the concept of communal
living with most facilities being shared. It is family orientated and can accommodate around
35 people at any one time. It is open all year round and can be booked at any time, using a
member only booking system.
Ideally suited for skiing on Mount Ruapehu in winter and adventures around the central
plateau all year round. See the website: 39southlodge.co.nz and facebook page.
Offers for this share, which gives long term access to the ski club and lodge $6000 ono.
Contact Malcolm Beaumont
p: 027 838 9978.
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Tasman Glacier Heli Skiing
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day. Ice Canyons, ice caves and four long
runs through spectacular scenery.
Heli hiking also available.
0274 342277 / www.mtcook.com
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