Adventure 222

Mid-winter Tramping
Hot Water Beach Te Ariki Bay, Mt Tarawera
By Erik Skilling
To be honest I was keen to get out of the city after all
those weeks stuck in Covid19 lockdown. A weekend
away in the bush sounded appealing.
Hot pools. If you are going to tramp this time of year with
its mud, short days, and cold nights pick somewhere
that allows you to camp by a hot pool. Preferably also
convince a close friend with benefits like a love of
camping, starry nights, and my company. In the middle of
winter. Not easy.
On an earlier pre-Covid mountain-biking trip to Rotorua,
apart from being too early to come across Michael
Clarke, we had heard of a 5-hour track to Hot-Water
beach at Te Rata Bay on Lake Tarawera. The thought of
soaking in a hot pool at this time of year was just enough
to persuade a friend to join me. The weather forecast at
the time was a bit dodgy but as often happens when you
commit, the trip would turn out to be the perfect choice
with some unique and memorable experiences.
True to form it felt good to be back in lush New Zealand
bush again. The undulating track wound its way through
thick native bush, stands of manuka and gullies full of
tree-fern standing several metres high. There are enough
hills to get the heart rate going with the reward of several
stunning views of the lake. There are two options for
a lunch stop, both with a table and toilet nearby. We
chose to stop next to the crystal-clear Wairua stream,
about two-thirds of the way to Te Rata Bay. Despite DOC
advice not to drink the water because of the thermal
activity nearby, we helped ourselves with no adverse
effects. And no wet feet - all the streams were bridged.
Te Rata Bay is one of those places that you just want to
keep to yourself. When you can set up tent a few meters
from the lake edge, on ground naturally heated, with
views across a steaming lake to the mighty Mt Tarawera
itself, this is 6-star camping. Don’t think too much about
why that that ground is so warm. Just enjoy the perk.
We got to share the bay with Jason the local caretaker
and one other couple who camped out of view. So much
for needing to book. The whine of an outboard motor
momentarily invaded the stillness (I say more waka, less
motor) as we set up camp, but mid-winter is the perfect
time to enjoy this place.
Overlooking Te Ariki Bay
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