Jewellery World Magazine - November 2020

This month's issue of Jewellery World Magazine examines trends in bridal jewellery and wedding rings, as well as silver jewellery trends across the Australian and New Zealand markets.

This month's issue of Jewellery World Magazine examines trends in bridal jewellery and wedding rings, as well as silver jewellery trends across the Australian and New Zealand markets.


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NOVEMBER <strong>2020</strong><br />




Level 5, Suite 504, 250 Pitt Street, Sydney NSW -2000<br />

Phone: 02 9264 2211 / Mobile: 0400 60 70 70<br />

Email: affectiondiamonds@gmail.com<br />

Instagram: affection_diamonds<br />


‣ GIA, GSL & Argyle Certified Stones<br />

‣ Smalls & Loose Parcels<br />

‣ Fancy Shapes<br />

‣ Matching Pairs<br />

‣ Old Cut<br />

‣ Single Cut<br />

‣ Rose Cut<br />

‣ Invisible Princess Cut<br />

‣ Natural Colour Diamonds<br />

‣ Colour Treated Diamonds<br />

‣ Salt & Pepper Diamonds<br />

‣ Argyle Certified Pinks<br />

‣ Hearts & Arrow<br />

‣ Ready-Made Stud Earrings<br />

‣ Custom Made <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Colour Diamonds Like<br />

❖ Natural Pinks<br />

❖ Natural Yellow<br />

❖ Natural Champagne / Cognac<br />

❖ Natural Grey<br />

❖ Natural Green<br />

❖ Treated Pinks<br />

❖ Treated Blue<br />

❖ Treated Green<br />

❖ Treated Black<br />

❖ Treated Yellow<br />

Matching Pairs<br />


✓ Baguettes<br />

✓ Tappers<br />

✓ Trapeze<br />

✓ Cadillacs<br />

✓ Trilliants<br />

✓ Half Moons<br />

✓ Pears<br />

✓ Marquise<br />

✓ Kites<br />

✓ Bullets<br />

✓ Shields<br />



<strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />

ABN: 41 143 385 895<br />

ISSN: 2207-6751<br />

PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570<br />

P: 0431 844 903<br />

Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

managing director<br />

Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903<br />

jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

editor<br />

editor@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

contributing writers<br />

Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />

Stefan Juengling<br />

Cheryl D Harty<br />

art<br />

design@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

advertising sales<br />

sales@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />


6 News<br />

12 Palloy's Points<br />

14 Trade Well with Rami Baron<br />

18 JAA News<br />

42 Watches<br />

46 Keeping Skills Alive<br />

48 New Products<br />

50 Directory<br />


16 This Black Friday, Christmas comes early<br />

Buying Group Leading Edge discusses the benefits of<br />

participating in Black Friday for jewellers.<br />

22 The silver lining in a recession is ... silver<br />

Silver jewellery has performed well during the chaos<br />

of <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

26 Trends in wedding rings<br />

Despite being steeped in tradition, the wedding ring<br />

market is constantly evolving.<br />

22<br />

26<br />

38<br />


This publication may not be reproduced<br />

in whole or part without the written<br />

permission of the Publisher.<br />

Articles express the opinions of the<br />

authors and are not necessarily those of the<br />

Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or<br />

service in this magazine does not indicate the<br />

Publisher’s endorsement.<br />

The Publisher excludes all liability for<br />

loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false<br />

or misleading statements that may appear<br />

in this publication.<br />

All information is copyright.<br />

32 Virtual <strong>Jewellery</strong> Fair - Show Report<br />

Australia's first Virtual <strong>Jewellery</strong> Fair was a<br />

resounding success.<br />

34 Passion, dreams and lifestyle<br />

Profile: Poix and Troy opens in Sydney<br />

36 Squirrel spotting<br />

Why bricks and mortar retailing will be around for a<br />

lot longer yet - and why you shouldn't worry.<br />

38 Designer Profile<br />

Bespoke jewellery designer Gillian Hillman<br />

shares her story<br />


NOVEMBER <strong>2020</strong><br />



Peter W Beck<br />

www.pwbeck.com.au<br />

4<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

News<br />

Last special roughs from Argyle in Rio Tinto tender<br />

A selection of the finest rough diamonds from Rio Tinto’s Canadian and Australian<br />

mines will be<br />

tendered to diamond specialists from<br />

around the world in October and <strong>November</strong>.<br />

Headlining Rio Tinto’s forthcoming<br />

“Specials” Tender, which showcases rough<br />

diamonds greater than 10.8 carats, is Lot<br />

number 1, Diavik Helios, a 74.48 carat Fancy<br />

yellow diamond. The Diavik Helios takes its<br />

name from the pure yellow sunlight emitted<br />

by the mythical Greek god of the sun.<br />

Fancy yellow diamonds are rare finds<br />

from the Diavik diamond mine in the<br />

remote Northwest Territories of Canada<br />

which primarily produces high quality<br />

white diamonds. Patrick Coppens, general<br />

manager of sales and marketing for Rio<br />

Tinto’s diamonds business said, “Since the Diavik mine began production in 2003 it<br />

has produced on average only five large yellow diamonds each year, in effect less<br />

than 0.001 per cent of Diavik’s annual production.<br />

“The Diavik Helios is an exceptional diamond in terms of its colour saturation and<br />

clarity and will be in strong demand from coloured diamond specialists around the<br />

world.”<br />

The convertible tiara<br />

When Princess Charlene of Monaco recently visited the country<br />

of Georgia as part European Sports Week (EWoS), she chose to<br />

pack practical and versatile items in her jewellery case.<br />

At the gala dinner in<br />

her honour, she wore<br />

a spectacular necklace<br />

converted from the<br />

tiara given to her by<br />

her husband Prince<br />

Albert as a wedding<br />

gift in 2011. The<br />

convertible Ocean Tiara by Van Cleef & Arpels consists of 1200<br />

precious stones, diamonds and sapphires, designed in scrolls to<br />

represent sea foam, as a symbol of the waters from the coast of<br />

Monaco to South Africa, the birth place of the former Charlene<br />

Wittstock. The sapphires were selected in three graduating<br />

shades of blue to represent the colour of the ocean while 11<br />

pear-cut diamonds represent water droplets.<br />

Van Cleef & Arpels became the official supplier to the<br />

Principality of Monaco in 1956, when Prince Albert’s father<br />

Prince Rainier married actress Grace Kelly.<br />

The Specials tender is also notable for including the last of the rough diamonds<br />

in this category from the Argyle mine in the east Kimberley region of Australia.<br />

28,399 carats of rough Argyle diamonds are included, showcasing the famed<br />

Argyle coloured diamonds, together with a beautiful 26 carat white gem quality<br />

rough Argyle diamond.<br />

Andrew Wilson, general manager of the Argyle mine said, “Since it began<br />

production in 1983, the Argyle mine has produced more than 865 million carats<br />

of rough diamonds. With the mine closing at the end of <strong>2020</strong> the Argyle rough<br />

diamonds presented at this tender are a final rare and collectible offering from one<br />

of the world’s greatest<br />

diamond mines.”<br />

The Tender will be<br />

physically showcased in<br />

both Antwerp and Tel<br />

Aviv, together with virtual<br />

and online viewings<br />

to cater for COVID-19<br />

restrictions. Bids close on<br />

<strong>November</strong> 9, <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

UK courts set precedent for jewellers<br />

A recent ruling by UK courts has resulted in a £30,000 payout<br />

from jewellers for a lost stone from a yellow diamond ring.<br />

Olivia Claffey noticed the £29,000 fancy octagonal 3.1 carat yellow<br />

diamond was missing from the setting of her ring as she got off a<br />

train in London in 2018. A four hour search involving train station<br />

staff turned up nothing and her partner, Mark Hare, sued the<br />

jewellers. His claim that the diamond was lost because one of the<br />

claws in the setting snapped off was upheld by the courts.<br />

6<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

The jewellers contented that the ring was of sound quality and<br />

pointed out that Ms Claffey had a history of being rough with her<br />

jewellery, however the judge awarded Mr Hare £29,000 for the<br />

ring, plus interest.

All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />

All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />

• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, <strong>2020</strong> (Homebush)<br />

• International • Sydney AGHA <strong>Jewellery</strong> Gift Fair -September - February 21-24, 12-14, <strong>2020</strong> (Homebush)<br />

(Darling Harbour)<br />

• International <strong>Jewellery</strong> Fair -September 12-14, <strong>2020</strong> (Darling Harbour)<br />



News<br />

The most expensive diamond sold at online auction<br />

A 102 ct D flawless diamond has sold for a record-breaking price for an<br />

online auction at Sotheby’s Hong Kong.<br />

The oval diamond, polished from a 271 carat rough stone from the<br />

Canadian Victor mine, also made auction history as the first gem of<br />

its quality to be sold without a reserve. Patti Wong, the chairman of<br />

Sotheby's Asia said in a press release that the "extraordinary gem needed<br />

no help from a pre-sale estimate or reserve to reach its rightful price - just<br />

the instinctive desire of collectors to own one of the earth's greatest<br />

treasures. And that the sale is a testament "not just to the importance of<br />

this diamond, but to the market for diamonds more broadly."<br />

The diamond had received top rankings in each of the 4Cs and classified<br />

as a D colour, the highest grading for a white diamond. While the opening<br />

bid was 13 cents, the price climbed rapidly over a month of bidding until it<br />

sold to a telephone bidder in Japan for $15.7 million at an auction.<br />

The private collector had named the gem Maiko Star after one of his<br />

daughters. This same collector purchased a diamond from Sotheby's last<br />

year, naming it "Manami Star" after his eldest daughter.<br />

Sotheby’s coloured stones auction a Festival of Colour<br />

A pendant featuring a 118.88-ct unheated royal blue Burmese sapphire<br />

surrounded by 16.06 carats of a pear-shaped diamond is the top lot of<br />

Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels live sale in Hong Kong.<br />

Described as “the largest sapphire of its kind it has ever offered” in a<br />

report in IDEX Online, the sapphire is also notable for being one of the<br />

few Burmese sapphires of significant size to be untreated.<br />

The gem is larger than the Rockefeller<br />

Sapphire, a 62.02 carat rectangular<br />

step cut stone purchased in 1934 by<br />

billionaire John D Rockefeller from<br />

an Indian Maharaja. The Rockefeller<br />

Sapphire fetched $3 million at a<br />

Sotheby’s auction in 2001.<br />

The Magnificent Jewels sale will<br />

celebrate colour, with the royal blue<br />

sapphire heading an extraordinary array<br />

of coloured gemstones and diamonds.<br />

Diamond-level COVID protection<br />

If you find that your fabric mask a little heavy and warm when you do the<br />

groceries, then a diamond mask is probably not for you. However, if you<br />

want your mask to be more of an attention-grabbing accessory, you might<br />

be interested in this upcoming design from an Israeli jewellery company.<br />

Isaac Levy, designer and owner of Yvel company based in Jerusalem,<br />

says that an anonymous buyer has commissioned a white-gold, diamond<br />

encrusted mask, weighing 270 grams and decorated with more than<br />

3,600 white and black diamonds, fitted with N99 filters and valued at $1.5<br />

million.<br />

Levy says that 25 jewellers and diamond setters are working in shifts to<br />

complete the project, which has a strict deadline of 31 December for<br />

delivery. “Money doesn’t buy everything, but if it can buy a very expensive<br />

Covid-19 mask and the<br />

guy wants to wear it and<br />

walk around and get the<br />

attention, he should be<br />

happy with that,” Levy<br />

said. “I am happy that this<br />

mask gave us enough work<br />

for our employees to be<br />

able to provide their jobs<br />

in very challenging times.”<br />

8<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


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News<br />

Instagram to crack down on undisclosed ads<br />

Influencers have become a key marketing tool for<br />

many brands and so an increasing trend of brands<br />

paying influences to push product has become<br />

the norm.<br />

Instagram is looking to crack down on influencers<br />

who fail to disclose that they’ve been paid to<br />

promote product - starting firstly in the UK but<br />

likely to spread to the US and all regions soon.<br />

According to a recent study by Awin.com, more than three-quarters of<br />

influencers hide their disclosure deep within their post. Tags such as #ad,<br />

#sponsored or #affiliate should be used, but when they’re included so late<br />

within the post that users have to fully expand in order to see them, they are<br />

more or less invisible. Regulatory requirements state that sponsored posts<br />

should be easily identified by consumers.<br />

No timeline has been announced by the social media giant, but forewarned<br />

is forearmed and now would be a good time to ensure that the guidelines for<br />

sponsored posts are being followed by any influencers you may be engaging.<br />

Celebrity engagement ring<br />

British singer Myleene Klass has announced her engagement to<br />

businessman Simon Motson, while unveiling a unique and beautiful<br />

bespoke engagement ring.<br />

Simon used a simple gold promise ring as part of his elaborate<br />

proposal, which involved creating a reproduction of the bar where<br />

they first went out – as soon as Myleene accepted his proposal, the<br />

couple set to work, designing the perfect ring with the assistance of<br />

Mayfair jeweller 77 Diamonds.<br />

The ring features a rare<br />

7.6 carat emerald cut<br />

black diamond sourced<br />

from Hong Kong, set in a<br />

sparkling halo of diamonds.<br />

“This diamond is the<br />

only one of its kind in the<br />

world,” said Myleene in an<br />

interview with British magazine Hello.<br />

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10<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

Created by members, for members.<br />




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Our members have so many resources at their fingertips to<br />

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• In-house loose diamond<br />

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• Stock ranging<br />

• Extensive supplier<br />

base at both local and<br />

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including the latest<br />

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Alongside these resources, you have the support of an<br />

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Chris Botha,<br />

Operations Manager, <strong>Jewellery</strong> Division<br />

Palloys<br />




In early July this year, Palloys launched its new website Palloys.com, which merged<br />

Palloys, A & E Metals, Regentco and AGS|PJW all in one site. The new site allows<br />

jewellers to now order products and services from Palloys and obtain instant<br />

quotations for custom finished jewellery, wedding rings, fabricated metals, findings,<br />

gemstones, and metal refining through one invoiced account under the Palloys name.<br />

The instant quoting for CAD files, casting from their own mould<br />

library, fabricated metals and diamonds allows jewellers to enjoy<br />

accurate and instant quotes they can pass onto their customers,<br />

giving the jewellers an instant competitive advantage, and eliminating<br />

the guesswork when designing to fit within a budget. The platform<br />

also has an emphasis on customisation, with jewellers able to select<br />

from more than 245,000 designs, adjusting metal type, style and stone<br />

size according to the customer’s budget. The jeweller can then view a<br />

360-degree render of the design before placing the order.<br />

The website is the first of its kind in the world, allowing a jeweller the<br />

ability to obtain a price instantly for their CAD to be printed, cast and<br />

finished.<br />

This launch has led me to reflect, on how much everything has now<br />

changed due to the current world environment. COVID has forced the<br />

jewellery industry to adapt in the way we all trade. More and more<br />

jewellers have been continuing their trade through their online stores<br />

and brand-new online platforms, to compliment, and in some cases<br />

cover the costs for their bricks and mortar locations.<br />

Social media has changed the way jewellers communicate with their<br />

customers and each other via networking groups, one such group being<br />

the Young Jewellers Group. Groups such as this have allowed jewellers<br />

to network and seek advice on key processes and suppliers during the<br />

pandemic.<br />

More and more jewellers have taken advantage of the COVID<br />

downtime and been developing their online presence with social media<br />

including Facebook, LinkedIn and Instagram, creating further avenues<br />

for jewellers to communicate with their customer base.<br />

In late October, the <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Virtual Fair was hosted,<br />

something which no one in the industry a few years ago would have<br />

entertained, and now it may actually become the first of many.<br />

It is great to see that the industry is adapting to the new environment<br />

we all find ourselves in and as we approach Christmas trade, I am<br />

excited for what is to come for the industry as a whole.<br />

12<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

02 - 92690991<br />

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6th Floor, 313 Lt. Collins St.<br />

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Millennium Chain<br />

Finished Top 5 in the category of<br />

Best Selling Gold <strong>Jewellery</strong> Suppliers in<br />

Australia and NZ, as voted by retailers.<br />




This is a transcript of a presentation I gave at Australia’s first <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Virtual Fair.<br />

I've included it here, in full, so that those who attended have a record of what we discussed,<br />

and so that everyone may benefit from the thoughts within.<br />

What is your Unique Selling<br />

Proposition (USP)?<br />

How will you stand out? Who are you?<br />

Why should I buy from you? You need to<br />

contemplate something that differentiates<br />

you. Some jewellers used to set a little ruby on<br />

the inside of the ring. John Calleija has a C as<br />

part of the setting in the undercarriage. Some<br />

invest in beautiful branding and everything<br />

in the store is aligned. Some jewellers are<br />

discounters, for some it’s a woman’s only<br />

business, or they cater to a specific market.<br />

Maybe you only do rose gold or antique<br />

designs. Is all your product ethically sourced?<br />

Maybe you do something really special after<br />

the sale?<br />

Perhaps part of what your USP is is that you<br />

are more than just a retailer, you are actually<br />

part of the whole experience of getting<br />

engaged. You need to find your USP. Why don’t<br />

you write down what you think your USP is.<br />

What does success look like to you?<br />

Have you written a business plan?<br />

A number of high-profile jewellers talk about<br />

the passion of crafting jewellery, and they love<br />

what they do.<br />

Let me tell you a little secret. If they were not<br />

financially successful in selling jewellery, they<br />

would lose that passion.<br />

Money is a barometer of our success<br />

regardless of what we do.<br />

When you have more of it, it just means<br />

you have the freedom to indulge yourself in<br />

experimenting or buying an expensive stone<br />

just because you love it. However, don’t be<br />

naive. You need to run a financially successful<br />

operation to get to that point.<br />

You really need to start with a business plan,<br />

and it doesn’t have to be some 30 page<br />

document to begin with. You should however<br />

look at the fundamentals of a SWOT analysis,<br />

which is what are your Strengths and what are<br />

your Weaknesses; what are your Opportunities<br />

and what are your Threats. There is no doubt<br />

that when you’re honest with yourself and<br />

define what your weaknesses are, you realise<br />

you can hire people to fill those gaps. The<br />

moment you do that, everything changes.<br />

A business plan makes you take your ideas,<br />

commit to paper and then bring them to life in<br />

some sort of organised manner. It also means<br />

you can go back and reflect on these thoughts.<br />

You can take this document and show it to a<br />

mentor who can add questions that you might<br />

still need to ask yourself, or complement you<br />

which provides positive reinforcement on what<br />

you’ve defined is your USP.<br />

If you’re able to project what you want to<br />

achieve in the following 12 months, it has the<br />

effect of a game. If sports didn’t have a score,<br />

we wouldn’t watch it.So by setting a number<br />

which might be your sales figures, or what<br />

you wish to earn from the business in the next<br />

12 months, you are allowing yourself to set a<br />

goal which is defined and therefore think of<br />

the power and inspiration you will create for<br />

yourself if you achieve it or surpass it. So many<br />

of us ignore this and like to say, “it’s a new<br />

business, I just have to see how I go”. This is<br />

the approach that many small jewellers take<br />

and end up closing their doors and looking for<br />

a job because they can barely pay themselves<br />

a wage.<br />

Do you have a mentor?<br />

Nobody has all the answers. Throughout my<br />

career, I’ve either engaged a mentor or hired<br />

a business consultant to help me identify<br />

what I’m missing. When you are focused on<br />

your business, it is impossible to see what<br />

you’re missing. You need fresh eyes, you<br />

need objectivity. Sometimes a friend who is in<br />

another business can discuss with you what<br />

they’re doing which will inspire you to think of<br />

how you could use some of these ideas in your<br />

own business.<br />

Having a mentor is particularly special because<br />

they are someone who is not trying to dictate<br />

to you how you should run your business, nor<br />

are they interested in anything other than your<br />

success. This might be controversial but it’s<br />

often best to find a mentor who is not a family<br />

member. The reason being, is that many times<br />

close family members impose their own life<br />

experience on their advice, and therefore by<br />

doing so, think that suggesting we don’t take<br />

risks, or we don’t try something new is saving<br />

us from failure. In fact, all this does is dampen<br />

our creativity and the problem is that their life<br />

experience does not necessarily reflect ours,<br />

or even more importantly, the circumstances<br />

of business today.<br />

I created a specialised jewellery insurance<br />

product. I am today what is known as an SME<br />

(small medium-sized enterprise). However,<br />

we think like a large insurance company and<br />

14<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


Rami Baron<br />

President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia<br />

rami@ddca.org.au<br />

therefore, we look to implement the same<br />

technology that they have access to. The key<br />

to our success is that we are nimbler, faster<br />

to market, able to provide more personalised<br />

service and implement change without having<br />

to write ten business cases to justify it.<br />

My mentors got me thinking like a corporation.<br />

They got me into running tight financials and<br />

putting money aside for a rainy day.<br />

How will you grow your business?<br />

CRM<br />

I’m not going to talk about the importance of<br />

a web presence, as I have seen some retailers<br />

focus on Instagramand absolutely smash it.<br />

However, the one thing that still shocks me<br />

with so many emerging jewellery businesses<br />

today is the lack of having a powerful CRM<br />

(Customer Relationship Management) tool.<br />

If you are not thinking about how you’re<br />

going to manage your customer’s journey<br />

from the moment they hear about you, to<br />

the first engagement with you, to purchasing<br />

something with you , to speaking to them post<br />

purchase to ensure that they are happy with<br />

what they purchased, and to communicating<br />

with them 3-4 times a year at a minimum,<br />

then you should think very seriously about<br />

whether you are even going to be in business<br />

for yourself or not.<br />

Businesses such as Tiffany’s and Van Cleef will<br />

analyse their customer’s purchase and ask<br />

themselves based on their previous knowledge<br />

and experience of this customer who falls<br />

into this sort of profile, what could their<br />

next purchase be? What could they suggest<br />

to them? This type of data analysis doesn’t<br />

necessarily require any massive outlay. It<br />

does require time and effort. However, if you<br />

realise you’ve just sold an engagement ring,<br />

why wouldn’t you discuss the type jewellery<br />

or fashion that the customer likes? Has she<br />

thought about the jewellery she might wear on<br />

the day? Has she thought about gift items that<br />

she may wish to buy her bridesmaids? Maybe<br />

the couple are from the LGBTQ community<br />

and want his and his lapel pins?<br />

Understand profit is not a dirty<br />

word<br />

Traditional retailers have been working on<br />

smaller and smaller margins over the years as<br />

they fall back on discounts as the only way to<br />

secure a sale.<br />

Parallel to that, the bench jeweller is often<br />

pressured by their retail customers to keep the<br />

price keen. With the introduction of CAD and<br />

the increase in purchases of pre-made mounts<br />

from overseas, many jewellers couldn’t<br />

compete. The next generation grew up with<br />

CAD, understands where and when to use it<br />

and is not scared of the imports, because they<br />

have learned that in general, it is often an<br />

inferior product purchased purely at a price<br />

point. If nothing more than the fact that the<br />

merchandise is manufactured to the minimal<br />

specifications, and therefore has ongoing<br />

issues of stones falling out.<br />

Unless you plan to make your jewellery<br />

business repairs only, you’re in the luxury<br />

business and I’ve previously written articles<br />

which talk about the need for your customers<br />

to aspire and stretch themselves to satisfy the<br />

need that they are giving something that is<br />

truly special.<br />

When a customer comes to your business,<br />

they want to have an experience. To provide<br />

the experience means that you have to spend<br />

money on all the little things that create that<br />

experience. You need to factor these things<br />

in when you’re pricing your jewellery so that<br />

you are left with enough gross profit to pay<br />

for them. Only then can you appreciate that<br />

unless you make a healthy profit, why are you<br />

putting in so much effort and work to create<br />

that experience for your customers. When<br />

your business makes a healthy profit, it gives<br />

you the resources to buy better tools, better<br />

fixtures and better quality merchandise. It<br />

also means that you can pay better wages<br />

and therefore attract better talent. The most<br />

important thing it does, is it enables you to<br />

stop being fearful of losing the sale. If you’re<br />

not making a healthy margin, just say no. But<br />

if you’re desperate, you will always be on the<br />

back foot and you will never make a healthy<br />

profit because you’re always doubting yourself<br />

and you are in such a tight financial position<br />

that you will always be chasing your tail.<br />

You have a vision but did you<br />

communicate it?<br />

You can write a great business plan. You can<br />

have amazing creativity. You can draw, craft<br />

and read business books. You can have a<br />

mentor and a business coach. All of these<br />

are wonderful ingredients which enable you<br />

to formulate your vision for what you want<br />

to create and build from today and into the<br />

future.<br />

My question to you is did you communicate<br />

this to your team? Your team at this point<br />

might be only one other person and that’s<br />

fine as long as you’re both on the same page.<br />

The problem is that many entrepreneurs are<br />

creative people and they see their ideas as<br />

these gems that they want to keep in a pouch<br />

and on occasion, pull them out to show people<br />

how clever they are, or creative. Clearly, you<br />

need to bring everyone on this journey with<br />

you.You need to share your ideas and all your<br />

creativity without the fear that the person<br />

who works for you or with you is going to steal<br />

them and run out the door and set up their<br />

own business.<br />

You need to appreciate the famous<br />

statement “success is 2% inspiration and 98%<br />

perspiration”. Never fear that they will run off<br />

with your knowledge. It’s all in the execution.<br />

If you’re an ideas person, you will always be an<br />

ideas person and you will constantly be looking<br />

for ways to evolve and change and adapt. The<br />

people in your team will look at you and be<br />

inspired by this creativity and will be able to<br />

share in your journey. In some cases, you will<br />

create the synergy. Meaning: one plus one<br />

equals three. The collective energy of ideas<br />

and everyone working for a common goal is<br />

far greater than the singular. It’s just like an<br />

army. A clear game plan (and yes, sometimes<br />

you have to leave out some of the small details<br />

<strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 15

ecause some people will only grasp one or two concepts at a time) will<br />

both motivate your team and give them an enormous sum of confidence<br />

that they are working with someone who knows where they’re going.<br />

Nobody is good at everything<br />

It does not matter who you are in business, nobody is good at everything.<br />

In your initial business plan when you speak to your mentor, it’s very<br />

important to identify these things early so that you can hire those people<br />

who can fill those roles that you’re just not good at or really don’t like<br />

doing.<br />

I can tell you I hate doing paperwork. I understand the numbers. You can<br />

give me balance sheets and profit and loss statements and I understand<br />

them, just don’t ask me to prepare them. When there’s a project that<br />

needs to be done, I’m great in that brainstorming session, but I’m terrible<br />

at following everyone up with what they have to do. So I have an assistant.<br />

My assistant, Sue, lives in Queensland and I am based in Sydney. Every<br />

morning on the way to work, she goes through my to do list. We have a<br />

list for each of our businesses and personal things that need to get done.<br />

One of the key things that Sue does for me is help me identify through<br />

discussion, what are two or three things that I should try and do on that<br />

day that will make that a successful day. This method keeps me on track.<br />

Nothing slips through the cracks and I’m playing to my strengths not my<br />

weaknesses.<br />

If you don’t have an assistant, you need to have an excellent to do list<br />

and in the morning and then again in the evening, you define what is the<br />

highest value items you can do on that day. Remember, few jewellers are<br />

setters and vice versa. Find a great social media person which is in the<br />

demographic that you want to cater to. Get an interior decorator to design<br />

your showroom. A tech whiz to set up security for all your data and emails<br />

(getting hacked is a nightmare). Nobody is good at everything.<br />

Conclusion<br />

So in summary, define what makes you different from the person next<br />

door and make sure you have a mentor or business coach to bounce off. A<br />

business partner is not a mentor or coach as they too suffer from tunnel<br />

vision in the business. Like you, they are caught up in the day-to-day. The<br />

reason why everyone’s going off in multiple directions in your business and<br />

is not progressing the way it should is because you haven’t defined a clear<br />

vision for the business and communicated that vision to everyone in the<br />

business.<br />

Without an excellent CRM in your business, you are losing the most<br />

valuable capital and assets in your business, and that is the data on your<br />

clients. Some businesses are focused on doing volume, but unless you’re<br />

a purely online business and you are selling thousands of units, you better<br />

focus on your profitability and it better be healthy or else you will not be<br />

able to execute all of the creative ideas that you have in your head, nor the<br />

money.<br />

At the end of the day, what will make you happy to go to work every day<br />

and grow your business? It’s a combination of the right people around you<br />

and the financial compensation that goes with it. And finally, no one can be<br />

good at everything so utilising experts in each field is about how we create<br />

great teams which allow us to build great businesses.<br />

THIS<br />




As an American sales trend that has<br />

enveloped the world, Black Friday provokes<br />

mixed feelings. Buying Group Leading<br />

Edge looks at how and why participating in<br />

Black Friday can benefit your business.<br />

This year’s Black Friday shopping event evokes mixed<br />

emotions in the jewellery world – perhaps it’s time we<br />

aligned with a more positive mindset? <strong>2020</strong> is clearly<br />

different to every year before it, yet despite difficulties,<br />

consumers still want to ensure that their loved ones enjoy<br />

Christmas.<br />

Leading Edge Retail, one of Australia’s largest retail, buying,<br />

and sales channel management groups, believes Black<br />

Friday presents an opportunity to grow your business which<br />

shouldn’t be missed.<br />

“With consumer spending shifting to earlier in the year,<br />

savvy shoppers are taking up compelling Black Friday deals<br />

to save on their Christmas purchases,” believes Olivia<br />

Anderson, general manager of marketing at Leading Edge<br />

Retail. “Retailers are fast realising Black Friday’s strategic<br />

importance to their businesses. It’s a chance to clear<br />

excess stock, fill the till and take advantage of changing<br />

consumer spending habits before Christmas. Price conscious<br />

consumers will be looking for the best deals and are highly<br />

attracted to sales offers.”<br />

Online shopping has boomed during the pandemic, with<br />

Australia Post making a record amount of deliveries.<br />

However, with online sales comes the fear of delayed<br />

deliveries, encouraging consumers to shop early to avoid any<br />

Trade well,,, Rami Baron.<br />

16<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

festive season disappointments. In an interview with Claire Packett, head<br />

of jewellery at Leading Edge, we discover why – and how – Black Friday is<br />

transforming the end of year sales trends.<br />

What are the benefits of participating in Black Friday?<br />

The Australian Bureau of Statistics highlights that in <strong>November</strong> 2019,<br />

retail sales increased by +3.3%. In December, they increased +2.7%. Roy<br />

Morgan and the Australian Retailers Association have directly linked<br />

<strong>November</strong>’s large increase to the Black Friday sales period. So, the<br />

question to reflect on is “can you afford not to participate?”<br />

Black Friday offers jewellers the time to clear stock that hasn’t been<br />

moving. Any stock over 180 days old is often costing you money – so this<br />

is the perfect time to clear these items. The incentive for the consumer is<br />

the approaching festive period.<br />

What advice do you have for jewellers who may feel<br />

cautious about having sales so close to Christmas?<br />

Credit card data from big banks reflects that consumers are bringing<br />

forward the timing of pre-Christmas purchases. This may be especially<br />

true this year, with consumers concerned about excess wait times for<br />

deliveries during the pandemic. With this in mind, jewellers should<br />

ensure that they are claiming their share of the spend occurring over this<br />

period and not missing out.<br />

Up to<br />

60%<br />

off<br />

You don’t need to offer blanket discounts – it’s all about taking advantage<br />

of clearance stock. If you’ve not got much collecting dust, talk to your<br />

suppliers about deals. They’re having the same <strong>2020</strong> issues as everyone<br />

and may be glad to see older stock gone. In addition, cross-selling and<br />

upselling are both key factors in achieving results that will make you smile<br />

at the end of the Black Friday period.<br />

How would you recommend marketing Black Friday<br />

deals to customers?<br />

Marketing to your audience is imperative for success. Leading Edge<br />

helps its members to achieve their desired results by supporting them in<br />

choosing the right stock, as well as in the creation of a range of point of<br />

sale marketing material and digital assets. Collateral is carefully curated<br />

and aesthetically appealing, to be used across a multitude of channels<br />

and promote considerable return on investment.<br />

If you would like to elevate your growth, Claire would be more than<br />

happy to discuss the Leading Edge Retail offering with you – designed to<br />

help your business survive and thrive. Contact Claire Packett at<br />

packettc@leadingedgegroup.com.au<br />






Jo Tory<br />

Dare I say it, but I think we’ve nearly made it through <strong>2020</strong>!<br />

Despite the year being one we’d all rather not reflect upon, we must remember the adversities we’ve<br />

overcome and recognise all that we have achieved in this difficult year. Let’s congratulate ourselves!<br />

From all the anecdotal evidence that I<br />

received from speaking with colleagues<br />

and customers in the industry, and<br />

from the results of the two surveys that the<br />

JAA conducted in July and August, generally<br />

speaking, we have fared well.<br />

Since March, the Association has been<br />

keeping members up to date throughout<br />

the entire time with updates of all resources<br />

available. We have responded to a high<br />

volume of enquiries from our members asking<br />

advice, and our feedback is that this has<br />

been a huge help. I would love to hear more<br />

feedback of what you, as an industry member,<br />

would like to see from us.<br />

We now have a new look Member Portal on<br />

the JAA website! It has been redesigned for<br />

easy navigation with segments that include<br />

protection, support, technical information,<br />

documents and news. We will continually add<br />

resources to the portal. Please have a look<br />

and provide feedback for any resources you<br />

would like to see included.<br />

Earlier this year we introduced a new benefit,<br />

not only for members but the industry at<br />

large, and that is JAA Insurance Services.<br />

The team has 40 years’ experience providing<br />

18<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

tailored cover and will give you expert advice<br />

to ensure that you are protected every step of<br />

the way. Not only is the Jewellers Block policy<br />

offered, but also other insurance such as cyber<br />

insurance, an important policy now in this<br />

ever-changing world of digital transactions.<br />

Find out more about JAA Insurance Services<br />

on the JAA website.<br />

The last few months has seen us hosting our<br />

second JAA Design Sketch Render Drawing<br />

Competition - a celebration of Australia and<br />

New Zealand jewellery design and sketching<br />

skills. We want to promote local creative<br />

talent, and this drawing competition is an<br />

investment in the vibrant future of the<br />

jewellery industry. Check out all the entrants<br />

in the e-publication available to view at jaa.<br />

com.au/sketch<br />

At the start of COVID-19 we wrote to the<br />

Prime Minister to raise our concerns regarding<br />

the impact that restrictions were having<br />

on retail, which of course in turn affects<br />

the entire industry. We were seeking rent<br />

relief for all commercial premises too. We<br />

did receive a reply from the PM’s office<br />

considering our concerns. I am sure that these<br />

concerns, expressed collectively through<br />

other associations and groups as well, would<br />

have been influential in the introduction<br />

of JobKeeper and mandatory rent relief<br />

measures.<br />

At the end of the year we will start the JAA<br />

membership renewals. Together we can<br />

make a difference and improve the lives and<br />

businesses of our members. Our goals are<br />

common.<br />

We want to:<br />

- create more opportunities for companies<br />

to grow their business,<br />

- support reasonable regulation and<br />

legislation that help member businesses<br />

operate better,<br />

- protect the interests of our businesses, our<br />

staff, and our customers, and<br />

- promote a more transparent legal,<br />

regulatory, and business environment so<br />

that we can complete in a fair playing field.<br />

Please come and join us! Our strength is in<br />

numbers! The world is rapidly changing and<br />

there has never been a better time to belong<br />

to our community to make our industry a<br />

sustainable and thriving one.<br />

JA<br />

Je<br />


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JAA Insurance Services is a trading name of Kalin Insurance Services Pty Ltd (ABN 65630810669). Corporate Authorised Representative (CAR No 1274720) of Quantum Insurance Holdings Pty Ltd (AFSL 451134). The<br />

Jewellers Association of Australia Ltd receives a financial benefit from Kalin Insurance Services Pty Ltd when an insurance policy is arranged under the facility enabling the Association to continue to provide services for<br />

members and the wider jewellery industry.

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By Stefan Juengling<br />




A combination of factors has contributed to silver’s surge in this<br />

year of economic upheaval. Government handouts, the rising price<br />

of gold, pent-up consumer demand and silver’s affordable price point<br />

saw silver jewellery weather the storm better than other precious<br />

metals in the Australian jewellery industry. Here we asked four major<br />

players in the Australasian silver jewellery industry for their opinion on<br />

silver’s remarkable endurance.<br />

Ellani Collections<br />

Reaping the silver spoils<br />

All our respondents reported<br />

good sales in silver jewellery this<br />

pandemic year. Co-director of<br />

Ellani Collections, Paul Hicks, said<br />

he has seen very good increases in<br />

sales since a slower March due to<br />

retail store opening restrictions, with<br />

only Victoria seeing slower sales.<br />

Ellani Collections<br />

“On regularly talking to retailers many<br />

feel the strong increases in sales is due to<br />

government stimulus that has been targeted<br />

to a demographic that are more inclined to<br />

spend any spare disposable income that they<br />

may have,” he said.<br />

“Other good sales are due to the travel<br />

restrictions, many that cannot go on cruises or<br />

overseas holidays are spending on jewellery.<br />

There was similar success at Portobello<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> where director Astral Maheshwari<br />

reported a growth in sales, with some retailers<br />

turning over Portobello’s range at an amazing<br />

rate.<br />

“Affordability could certainly be<br />

a reason for the uptick, but for<br />

us the biggest reason is the<br />

flexibility offered by Portobello’s<br />

customisation application, where<br />

a retailer can up-sell using a silver<br />

piece,” she said.<br />

“The effectiveness of the application<br />

has seen our retailers limiting their<br />

other non-performing ranges in gold and<br />

substituting it with our silver range.”<br />

Across the pond, New<br />

Zealand-based designer<br />

jeweller Kagi has seen<br />

a customer group<br />

that’s focused on<br />

their sterling silver<br />

range. <strong>Jewellery</strong> maker<br />

and designer Nick<br />

Hoogwerf said that<br />

this type of customer<br />

identifies with the<br />

precious nature of<br />

sterling silver and its<br />

properties.<br />

Kagi<br />

“Another benefit of sterling silver is that it's<br />

affordable but still recognised around the<br />

world as a precious mineral, I think people<br />

really connect to that,” he said.<br />

Founder and CEO of Najo Jo Tory said that<br />

Najo has seen a surge in demand over the past<br />

two years, and even more so this year, in spite<br />

of the pandemic and subsequent recession.<br />

Portobello<br />

22<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

Najo<br />

Are young shoppers smitten by<br />

silver?<br />

According to a survey conducted on behalf<br />

of the US Silver Institute’s Silver Promotion<br />

Service (SPS) by InStore, silver is resonating<br />

with a younger demographic with consumers<br />

aged 20-40 the most likely to buy silver<br />

jewellery. When probed on this finding, Nick<br />

said this young demographic is a group Kagi<br />

has seen growth in sales.<br />

“With layering and stacking pieces as the hero<br />

trend in jewellery this year, we are seeing<br />

this customer group increase their spend and<br />

overall basket size for our silver pieces,” he<br />

said.<br />

To tap into this<br />

market, Nick said<br />

the key is to have<br />

pieces in your<br />

range that are<br />

enduring and will<br />

fit in with other<br />

brands/looks<br />

when layering as<br />

the look needs to<br />

look seamless.<br />

Conversely,<br />

the rest of our<br />

Portobello<br />

contributors’ sales<br />

didn’t necessarily reflect an outsized appeal to<br />

young consumers. Jo said that Najo’s market<br />

research has found that their customer base<br />

is generally older than the millennial market,<br />

and that these older customers are lovers of<br />

silver jewellery.<br />

“Having said that, we now have a growing<br />

younger demographic that are responding<br />

well to our finer designs – many of which are<br />

gold-plated designs,” she said.<br />

Portobello’s store in Melbourne is more than<br />

45 years old, and Astral said they have a loyal<br />

customer base and are lucky to have three<br />

generations of a family visiting the<br />

store.<br />

“We find quality designs in silver appeal to<br />

all not just 20-40 age bracket,” she said.<br />

Nick expressed a similar sentiment,<br />

stating that,<br />

“I feel all age groups have accepted silver<br />

jewellery, seeing very good sales in (yellow)<br />

gold and rose gold-plated silver jewellery,<br />

designs that can be retailed at very affordable<br />

price points.<br />

Silver, perfectly suited to<br />

online selling<br />

In a press release published in August this<br />

year, The Silver Institute reported that some<br />

of the reasons why silver jewellery is expected<br />

to fare better than other precious metals this<br />

year is due to its relative affordability and<br />

greater suitability to online selling.<br />

All our contributors agreed with this finding,<br />

and some provided additional reasons as to<br />

why silver is so well suited to online selling.<br />

Paul said silver jewellery that is priced in<br />

sweet price points with designs that resonate<br />

with the consumer see very good sell through.<br />

“Retailers that replace their fast sellers on a<br />

regular basis are<br />

seeing very good<br />

growth in this<br />

category of their<br />

business,” he said.<br />

Jo echoed similar<br />

views stating that,<br />

“Naturally silver<br />

jewellery works<br />

well for online sales<br />

due to the lower<br />

price point and the<br />

myriad of designs<br />

that follow fashion<br />

trends.”<br />

Kagi<br />

Silver’s popularity<br />

online due to its<br />

affordability is also apparent<br />

to Nick, who said silver’s affordability is what<br />

separates it from other metals and makes it<br />

perfect for gifting.<br />

“With the COVID pandemic, more and more<br />

customers will move their annual Christmas<br />

shopping online, so we expect sales of<br />

affordable pieces to increase as customers<br />

think of purchasing gifts for their loved ones,”<br />

he said.<br />

Astral agreed that silver scores on price point,<br />

but believes that online sales are a function<br />

of store credibility, designs and shopping<br />

experience.<br />

Najo<br />

<strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 23

Najo<br />

Kagi<br />

Ellani Collections<br />

What precious stones suit<br />

silver best?<br />

Diamonds and cubic zirconias are always clear<br />

fail-safe stones that look good with silver<br />

jewellery pieces, but doesn’t mean coloured<br />

stones can’t. Astral said Portobello <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

carries more than 40 natural gemstones,<br />

and their customer base<br />

appreciates the beauty and<br />

rarity inmany<br />

different<br />

gemstones.<br />

“We have<br />

partnering<br />

retailers<br />

regularly asking<br />

for tourmalines, morganites,<br />

emeralds, rubies and a host of semi-precious<br />

gemstones,” she said.<br />

Designs featuring morganite cubic zirconia<br />

are popular at Ellani Collections, with Paul<br />

reporting strong sales.<br />

Jo took the view that coloured stones are<br />

more suited to silver jewellery than diamonds<br />

or cubic zirconias.<br />

“Whether it be turquoise, blue topaz,<br />

chrysoprase and onyx – just to name a few,”<br />

she said.<br />

Portobello<br />

Silver jewellery’s potential<br />

prospects/pitfalls ahead<br />

As Nick alluded to earlier, with silver’s<br />

affordability combined with other factors<br />

mentioned above (rising price of gold,<br />

widespread belt-tightening), many are<br />

expecting strong silver jewellery sales over<br />

Christmas. Paul concurred and felt that<br />

Christmas will be very strong, and 2021<br />

will be “interesting.”<br />

“A lot will depend on what stimulus<br />

the government is prepared to<br />

continue with and the confidence<br />

of the consumer moving into<br />

2021,” he said.<br />

“Even more reason to work hard at<br />

good stock selection now and maximise this<br />

current selling season.”<br />

In preparation for the season, Nick said that<br />

his team at Kagi are organising marketing,<br />

merchandising and sales support well in<br />

advance, so their retailers can have the best<br />

Christmas trading possible.<br />

“We have a festive red range of products due<br />

hit stores at the start of <strong>November</strong> which is<br />

sure to be popular,” he said.<br />

He said other brands should consider<br />

Christmas to be a time where customers like<br />

to have a piece of jewellery to wear that is<br />

unique and has an element of playfulness.<br />

“I invite you to keep this in mind when decking<br />

out your store this Christmas: what is the ‘fun’<br />

element you can highlight in your store and<br />

what can you provide your customers that<br />

will set them apart and inspire them into this<br />

festive season?”<br />

Ellani Collections<br />

Kagi<br />

24<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

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By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />

Worth & Douglas<br />


Since ancient times, the wedding ring has been a powerful symbol of marriage and<br />

commitment. Its circular shape conveys a partnership with no beginning and no end, while the<br />

open centre is a portal into the couple’s unknown future together. This shape also symbolises<br />

the evolution of the wedding ring itself, with traditions and styles repeating and developing<br />

over the centuries, while the ring’s message stays essentially the same.<br />

In the 16th century, the wedding ring faced<br />

some competition as the eternal symbol of a<br />

romantic union, when Puritans decided that<br />

it was more practical for husbands to present<br />

their wives with thimbles. Needless to say, this<br />

practice did not endure long.<br />

Until the 20th century, men did not wear<br />

wedding rings but this changed during <strong>World</strong><br />

War II, when soldiers wanted to wear a<br />

visible symbol of their commitment while<br />

they were fighting far away from home. This<br />

tradition of married soldiers wearing wedding<br />

rings continued during the Korean War and<br />

eventually the tradition seeped into civilian<br />

marriages.<br />

While the wedding<br />

rings of <strong>2020</strong> reflect<br />

the traditions<br />

of the past, the<br />

most significant<br />

development is that<br />

couples can now be<br />

more directly involved<br />

in the creation of<br />

their unique bespoke<br />

wedding rings.<br />

“The biggest change<br />

has been the trend for<br />

one-of-a-kind pieces,<br />

which have become Twin Plaza Metals<br />

prevalent with more couples looking to create<br />

a custom-designed wedding ring by adding<br />

their own personal touches,” said Chris Worth,<br />

Business Development Manager of Worth &<br />

Douglas. “While designs set with different<br />

shaped diamonds have become more popular,<br />

hand engraved styles designed over 50 years<br />

ago are still selling. The widths have also<br />

varied over the years, from up to 14mm wide<br />

down to the narrower 2-3mm widths more<br />

sought after today.”<br />

Worth & Douglas have been designing and<br />

crafting wedding rings for over 60 years, and<br />

their collection encompasses a wide range of<br />

traditional and modern styles, with the option<br />

of creating a bespoke ring to the customer’s<br />

specific requirements.<br />

Chris says that couples can choose from a<br />

range of innovative options to make their<br />

wedding rings look more individualistic.<br />

Worth & Douglas<br />

Worth & Douglas<br />

26<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

DesignStudio<br />

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A revolutionary way to design and customise rings.<br />

Infinity Rings DesignStudio allows you to customise our designs’ metal combinations,<br />

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include engraving for a personal touch. Designs come to life on the screen<br />

as they can be created and viewed from any angle on any device.<br />

Call our team to explore how DesignStudio can work for you Ph: 1300 403 005 sales@infinityrings.com.au

Worth & Douglas<br />

“Anything from a CAD/CNC design for creating an individual and<br />

bespoke look, to wedding rings engraved with names, wedding<br />

date, a personal message or even a diamond on the inside of the<br />

band.”<br />

Fabuleux Vous<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> for every occassion<br />

Couples can also personalize their rings with gemstone settings.<br />

“Combinations of either ruby or sapphire with diamond, either in<br />

a channel set or claw set are always very popular,” said Chris.<br />

Deanne Roberts, State Manager of Twin Plaza Metals in South<br />

Australia, says that custom engraving is always a good way to<br />

personalize a unique design.<br />

“Or have your partner’s and your own completely unique<br />

fingerprint impressed on the outside or inside of your wedding<br />

band,” said Deanne<br />

Based in Auckland, we<br />

specialise in sterling silver<br />

and wedding jewellery.<br />

We love pearls and<br />

precious stones.<br />

Twin Plaza Metals has been a supplier of jewellery supplies and<br />

equipment for 30 years. Deanne says that she finds the diamond<br />

set band with shared claw in 18carat white gold is currently the<br />

most popular choice for brides.<br />

“The trend for gents’ wedding rings has been a touch of class<br />

directed towards nice heavy plan profile bands in single tone<br />

colours,” Deanne says. Gem-set stones are also popular, and Twin<br />

Plaza Metals can supply matching gents and ladies bridal sets<br />

with quality superior finish brilliant cut diamonds.<br />

“Eighteen-carat yellow and white along with platinum are by<br />

far the most popular alloys for metal in wedding rings,” Deanne<br />

New season collections available now<br />

www.fabuleuxvous.com<br />

E: helen@fabuleuxvous.com P: +64 274 203 137<br />

Worth & Douglas

Worth & Douglas<br />

said. “It really is important to understand the<br />

difference between white gold alloys and<br />

platinum – it is a constant education process<br />

for retail staff and consumers on white metals.<br />

The better it is explained to the consumer, the<br />

more chance you have of making the sale.”<br />

While <strong>2020</strong> has been a tough year for business<br />

owners, Deanne says that maintaining a wide<br />

selection of jewellery is the secret to making<br />

sales as a jewellery business.<br />

“Our best performing customers are the ones<br />

that are prepared to have real stock in their<br />

windows,” she said.<br />

Twin Plaza Metals has a wide range of designs<br />

to help their customers attract sales.<br />

“We have a large cross-section of rings<br />

available,” Deanne said. “Twin Plaza Metals is<br />

flexible with design parameters, to create new<br />

fresh and creative ideas.<br />

“Our elegant presentation<br />

trays with a selection of the<br />

most popular men’s styles will<br />

maximize your ring sales with<br />

minimal outlay.”<br />

Helen Thompson-Carter,<br />

creator, owner and director<br />

of Fabuleux Vous says<br />

that wedding rings are<br />

only one element of<br />

the jewellery that make<br />

a wedding special. Fabuleux<br />

Vous is an Auckland-based jewellery design<br />

company committed to “sharing stories<br />

through jewellery.”<br />

“Brides want to match and accessorise their<br />

chosen gown with jewellery that can be<br />

anything from a fashion piece to a high-end<br />

piece – silver, gold with or without precious<br />

stones,” said Helen.<br />

Recently, Fabuleux Vous supplied a bride with<br />

Palais earrings that matched the design in the<br />

lace of her dress perfectly.<br />

“The earrings were significant enough that<br />

she didn’t need any other jewellery, except of<br />

course, her rings.”<br />

Helen says that pearls also tend complement<br />

almost any wedding gown.<br />

“From a simple pearl stud, to a drop earring<br />

on a hook or chain – pearls<br />

and brides just seem to go<br />

together.”<br />

Helen says there is<br />

also a trend for brides<br />

and grooms to give the<br />

jewellery to be worn on the day as a<br />

gift to their bridal party.<br />

“<strong>Jewellery</strong> is such an emotional<br />

connector – for the bridal party, this<br />

is a special gift to say thank you, as a<br />

remembrance and a celebration of love and<br />

friendship.<br />

“And the jewellery a bride chooses to wear<br />

on her day – not just the wedding ring – will<br />

connect her to this celebration for the rest of<br />

her life. I really<br />

love this aspect<br />

of weddings<br />

and in fact any<br />

significant<br />

event –<br />

jewellery<br />

really does<br />

celebrate<br />

those<br />

special<br />

moments.”<br />

Worth & Douglas<br />

Fabuleux Vous<br />

30<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>



The first Australasian <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Virtual Fair went live on<br />

the 20th and 21st of October and saw hundreds logging in for an<br />

exciting new experience for the jewellery industry.<br />

The JIVF saw 600 guests online from all<br />

over Australia and New Zealand for a<br />

48 hour fair that offered guests the<br />

opportunity to meet with suppliers, hear from<br />

speakers on a virtual stage, and discuss the<br />

industry with associations and the ability to<br />

network.<br />

Event organisers were thrilled with the results<br />

as feedback came flooding in from guests and<br />

exhibitors.<br />

‘It was an honour to be part of the<br />

jewellery industry fair. Enjoyed it!!!!<br />

Can't wait for the next one.’<br />

‘Well done on launching this virtual fair, as it<br />

highlights how we can adapt to the current<br />

restrictions, and still stay together as an<br />

industry. I think it was a fabulous idea!’<br />

‘Loved the variety - something for everyone<br />

and different aspects of the trade.’<br />

‘Today we have had great feed back and<br />

more enquires re our booth and over all we<br />

are very happy with the result.’<br />

‘Thanks for hosting such an awesome event.’<br />

‘Great work guys, thanks for putting<br />

together such a great event and here's<br />

to many more.’<br />

The <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Virtual Fair shows<br />

significant prospects for the jewellery industry,<br />

with its ability to shape and grow businesses<br />

to become more digitally savvy and therefore<br />

keep up with consumer demands.<br />

Over 900 industry members registered for the<br />

event over the course of its 4 week promotion,<br />

with registrations continuing even up until the<br />

last 15 minutes of the Fair, clearly indicating<br />

significant demand for this digital solution.<br />

Event organisers knew that this first event<br />

would be challenging, but that it would<br />

also provide wonderful insights into both<br />

suppliers’ needs and guests’ needs and form a<br />

foundation for future events.<br />

‘We anticipated that there would be some<br />

technical challenges as it’s a very new way of<br />

working, but all of our exhibitors, speakers and<br />

amazing sponsors worked really hard to learn<br />

the platform and create amazing content for<br />

guests,” said Laura Moore of Moore Events<br />

Australia. “We are thankful for their hard work<br />

and commitment to their customers, by being<br />

part of this first JIVF.”<br />

The <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Virtual Fair<br />

was broken up into four areas:<br />

Stage<br />

Here industry leaders from<br />

all over the world were<br />

given the virtual stage<br />

to present their ideas,<br />

thoughts and advice for<br />

retailers and jewellers.<br />

Sessions<br />

An area for our Australian<br />

Associations and Buying<br />

Groups which gave guests<br />

the ability to chat to them<br />

about their member<br />

benefits and plans for the<br />

future.<br />

Networking<br />

This online space was for guests to meet one<br />

on one with someone they may never have<br />

met for a five minute speed meeting.<br />

Expo<br />

The exhibition area was a space where<br />

suppliers were housed to show new products<br />

and demonstrations to customers. Guests<br />

could visit and speak face to face, or watch a<br />

presentation set up by the supplier.<br />

The <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Virtual Fair united the<br />

industry after a very difficult year, and allowed<br />

groups to come together and reconnect.<br />

Guests and exhibitors, along with participating<br />

buying groups Showcase Jewellers and<br />

Leading Edge Group Jewellers, are looking<br />

forward to the next date set for the JIVF, and<br />

are excited about how this event might help<br />

the industry to grow.<br />

Recent reports by Ibis show that online sales<br />

for jewellery and watches have grown strongly<br />

over the past five years, increasing by 11.9%<br />

annually, while the Australian jewellery retail<br />

32<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

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With events like this, where<br />

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provide leading technology<br />

to Australasian businesses,<br />

our future looks bright with<br />

the ability for us to continue<br />

to adapt, connect and create<br />

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<strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 33



Philippe Poix and Craig Troy, established<br />

Poix & Troy to bring exclusive and<br />

beautiful collections from around the<br />

world to Australia and the South Pacific.<br />

Through their mutual business vision to create<br />

“passion, dreams and lifestyle,” Philippe and<br />

Craig manufacture and distribute incredible<br />

and unique jewellery pieces for their<br />

customers.<br />

Poix & Troy<br />

Australia<br />

are brand<br />

ambassadors and<br />

represent some<br />

of the finest<br />

jewellery houses<br />

from around<br />

the world.<br />

Philippe and<br />

Craig have built<br />

strong personal<br />

partnerships<br />

with incredible designers and leading<br />

manufacturers, to develop amazing and<br />

unique lifestyle jewellery collections.<br />

Philippe, originally from France, now a very<br />

proud Australian, has 30 years’ experience<br />

in the jewellery industry. His lifelong passion<br />

and knowledge of gemstones along with his<br />

industry connections<br />

globally, allow Poix<br />

& Troy to hold some<br />

of the most exquisite<br />

and unique pieces<br />

here in Sydney,<br />

Australia.<br />

Philippe has travelled<br />

the world building<br />

relationships with<br />

major jewellery<br />

brands and<br />

international<br />

boutiques, developing<br />

a strong global<br />

reputation as a highly<br />

sought-after brand<br />

ambassador. In 2008, he returned to Paris,<br />

France where he was presented with the<br />

very prestigious French Senate Medal, for his<br />

participation in the 9th Gemmology Congress<br />

- I Xeme Rendez- Vouz Gemmologiques de<br />

Paris.<br />

Philippe’s renowned ability for creating stories<br />

regarding the history and the creation of<br />

Poix & Troy’s amazing one of a kind pieces, is<br />

captivating and allows customers to dream<br />

and connect deeply with each piece.<br />

When Philippe is not focused on work, which<br />

is almost never, you will find<br />

him with his family or exploring<br />

antique stores and markets for<br />

objet d’art to find inspiration for<br />

jewellery and to fill his beautiful<br />

home<br />

Craig and Philippe’s connection<br />

through business and<br />

friendship, coupled with their<br />

complementary skills for<br />

jewellery and business, has<br />

created the ideal scenario for<br />

them to create Poix & Troy Australia. They are<br />

trusted with representing some of the finest<br />

collections by international brands and have<br />

also developed some amazing collections<br />

incorporating their own designs and with<br />

select European designers.<br />

The second member of the partnership, Craig,<br />

is a successful Sydney businessman from a<br />

finance and technology background, with a<br />

long-held a passion for luxury and lifestyle.<br />

Craig has always been fascinated by<br />

developing brands and creating new business<br />

opportunities and has built a successful<br />

business consultancy, working with major<br />

brands to deliver incredible business results.<br />

Craig is focused on the commercials of Poix<br />

& Troy but is also dedicated to customer<br />

engagement and as a result you will find him<br />

travelling extensively with Philippe to ensure<br />

he knows and understands their customers to<br />

build strong partner relationships.<br />

www.poixandtroy.com.au<br />

34<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

CIBJO releases Lab-<br />

Grown Diamond<br />

Guidance for review<br />

CIBJO, the <strong>World</strong> <strong>Jewellery</strong> Confederation, has released a Laboratory-<br />

Grown Diamond Guidance document for review by members of affiliated<br />

national associations and representatives of commercial members. This<br />

is the final stage in a more than two-year process to create a harmonised<br />

set of operating standards and principles for the laboratory-grown<br />

diamond sector.<br />

A key principle of the document is that, to ensure confidence,<br />

consumers must receive complete and unambiguous information about<br />

what they are buying, so that they can make consciously informed<br />

purchasing decisions. This requires clear and accurate information that<br />

the diamonds were created industrially, and not through geological<br />

processes, as is the case with natural diamonds.<br />

The laboratory-grown diamond sector and natural diamond sector<br />

operate according to different business models, with the relationship<br />

between colour, clarity and weight, on the one side, and rarity on the<br />

other, which exists with natural diamonds, not relevant with laboratorygrown<br />

diamonds, where colour, clarity and weight are subject to the<br />

control of the laboratory-grown diamond manufacturer. Rarity is a<br />

critical factor in setting the price of a natural diamond, and in deciding<br />

its long-term value trajectory.<br />

Divided into various sections, the guidance document outlines clear<br />

principles for describing laboratory-grown diamonds, and well as due<br />

diligence measures that should be followed by companies handling<br />

such merchandise and events at which they are displayed, like trade<br />

shows. It also recommends the manner in which loose laboratory-grown<br />

diamonds or jewellery set with laboratory-grown diamonds should be<br />

disclosed on sales invoices and consignment documents. The document<br />

also addresses the subject of laboratory-grown diamond detection<br />

technology.<br />

The guidance document recommends that, if the 4Cs are used by a<br />

laboratory to describe the physical characteristics of laboratory-grown<br />

diamonds, the letters “LG” should be placed as a prefix before the 2Cs<br />

of colour and clarity. Certain countries require that OIML/Legal Units<br />

of Measurement be used to describe the weight of laboratory-grown<br />

diamonds, and here the guidance document recommends that the<br />

report notes both the stone’s standard carat weight and its weight in<br />

grams.<br />

The document is open to review by any member of CIBJO-affiliated<br />

national associations. In Australia, that is the JAA, and in New Zealand, it<br />

is the Jewellers and Watchmakers of New Zealand.<br />

Visit www.cibjo.org to learn more.<br />



A: 1202/115 PITT STREET, SYDNEY NSW 2000<br />

T: 02 9261 3555 | E: DEVINO@DEVINO.COM | W: DEVINO.COM<br />

<strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 35


President of Memoire and Hearts On Fire<br />

(Chow Tai Fook, North America)<br />




There is a maxim that says if customers don’t want to come, nothing will stop them.<br />

As maxims go, it’s about as topical as<br />

any in a retail environment that has<br />

seen foot traffic, or footfall, as my<br />

friends across the pond like to say, continue to<br />

decline.<br />

That years-long trend, exacerbated by the<br />

disruption of COVID-19, might give one pause<br />

in projecting sunny days for brick-and-mortar<br />

retail.<br />

Lord & Taylor, the first department store in the<br />

United States, went out of business just a few<br />

years shy of its 200th anniversary.<br />

Pier 1, which started in 1962 as Cost Plus, took<br />

their 900 stores into bankruptcy in May, just<br />

three months or so after attempting to survive<br />

by announcing that they would close half of<br />

their stores.<br />

Sur La Table, Brooks Brothers and Modell’s<br />

Sporting Goods also went Chapter 11, and<br />

Neiman Marcus has gone in and out of<br />

bankruptcy since the arrival of COVID-19.<br />

So, what exactly is going on? What are we<br />

to make of the evolving retail landscape,<br />

particularly as it relates to brick-and-mortar<br />

stores?<br />

Amid the flood of retail bankruptcies and the<br />

ongoing saga of stores like J.C. Penney, Sears,<br />

J. Crew, Express, etc., one thing is patently<br />

clear: Retail is overbuilt in the U.S., with more<br />

than 1,100 shopping malls and more than 23.5<br />

square feet of shopping per person.<br />

For context, Canada has 16.8, Australia has<br />

11.2 and the United Kingdom has 4.6 square<br />

feet of shopping per person.<br />

In “The Convenience Revolution,” Shep Hyken<br />

wrote: “Friction is a hassle in your customer’s<br />

world. Anything that removes friction,<br />

regardless of the source, is likely to improve<br />

your relationship with the customer.”<br />

It would be difficult to make the case that<br />

visiting any of those 1,100 malls provides a<br />

frictionless experience.<br />

We are seeing many of the Class C and D malls<br />

go away, or repurposed to the point they are<br />

unrecognisable.<br />

That retail catharsis will likely continue for<br />

years to come.<br />

If you have stores in those malls, even a great<br />

store, you’re going to find out what having the<br />

best house on the worst street is all about.<br />

The transformation of those low-experience<br />

malls is neither a negative in and of itself, nor<br />

a de-facto reflection on the overall health of<br />

physical retail. It is an essential retail catharsis.<br />

Additionally, we have the spectre of online<br />

shopping and, understandably, the fear that<br />

the pandemic will irrevocably accelerate the<br />

shift from bricks to clicks.<br />

But has it?<br />

There is no doubt whatsoever that retail<br />

stores, no matter how small, must have an<br />

online presence to be relevant, particularly<br />

when you consider that 80 percent of<br />

consumers begin their shopping journeys<br />

online.<br />

But lest we think the pandemic has delivered<br />

a mortal blow to physical stores, consider that<br />

during the apex of the shutdown, in April, May<br />

and June, when one might have expected the<br />

vast majority of retail shopping to have taken<br />

place online, the number was actually 15<br />

percent, according to the U.S. Department of<br />

Commerce.<br />

While statistically impressive, especially when<br />

compared to the 11 percent of online retail<br />

business in 2019, it is infinitely less than one<br />

might have expected given the weeks-long<br />

shutdown for many stores.<br />

In “Consumer Neuroscience,” by Moran Cerf<br />

and Manuel Garcia-Garcia, it states: “The<br />

social pressure of the in-store environment<br />

means that people are less likely to pull out of<br />

a purchase once it has been started, whereas<br />

the absence of this in an online context means<br />

basket abandonment is a huge challenge for<br />

e-commerce.”<br />

In fact, according to data from Listrak, a retail<br />

marketing firm that tracks shopping cart<br />

abandonment, the rate at which consumers<br />

abandon their shopping carts online without<br />

completing their purchases is 81 percent.<br />

36<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

As critical as it is to be able to easily conduct e-commerce when that is<br />

what the customer wants, the combination of no human interaction,<br />

and no ability to experience the tactility that comes from in-store<br />

shopping, means quality brick-and-mortar environments will continue<br />

to have the lion’s share of the retail pie.<br />

One of the great misconceptions of pandemic purgatory, as we’ve all<br />

learned to work remotely, have our groceries delivered, eat out less,<br />

and eschew the joys of attending live sporting events, concerts and<br />

movie theatres, is that we will be satisfied living in that kind of world<br />

post-pandemic.<br />

That notion is complete and utter rubbish.<br />

IP123-ERGP-D<br />

IP123E9Y-D<br />

*removable disk<br />

While commercial real estate is certain to take a hammering, as more<br />

and more companies realise that remote work can play a role postpandemic,<br />

and restaurants will, no doubt, take more than their share<br />

of casualties, new businesses and new initiatives will fill those spaces.<br />

Entrepreneurs will step in, and stores and restaurants will emerge<br />

from the ashes of those unfortunate businesses that ultimately<br />

succumbed to the pandemic with new and vibrant retail stories.<br />

COVID-19, in effect, will not so much have killed healthy business but<br />

accelerated unhealthy and declining business.<br />

IP123-EW-D<br />

Ikecho Australia<br />

Signature Series<br />

What won’t change is our desire for human contact and the<br />

reassuring sense of community that comes from attending in-person<br />

events and shows, and from experiential shopping.<br />

We will be less likely to frequent undifferentiated shopping malls—a<br />

trend accelerated during the pandemic, but long in the cards—but<br />

the dopamine rush that comes from meaningful experiences and<br />

in-person shopping will not abate.<br />

IP59E-RGP<br />

Independent retailers have a huge advantage in the evolving retail<br />

story. They are not tethered to dying malls, corporate policy or<br />

outright indifference.<br />

They can shift on a dime to deliver meaningful experiences to their<br />

customers by connecting on an emotional level and by engaging their<br />

customers’ senses with relevant and differentiated products in exciting<br />

retail spaces.<br />

IP121-PRG-EDI-P<br />

As Michael Dart and Robin Lewis wrote in “Retail’s Seismic Shift,”<br />

their 2017 book: “For retailers the next steps for success are clear.<br />

Pick your niche. If you are massive, get rid of the mass by fragmenting<br />

into niches. Create differentiation and awesome experiences for each<br />

niche.”<br />

Seems like a reasonable plan to me.<br />

Peter Smith is the president of Memoire and Hearts On Fire (Chow Tai<br />

Fook, North America). He is the author of two books, “Hiring Squirrels”<br />

and “Sell Something.” Both books are available in print or Kindle at<br />

Amazon.com. Connect with Smith on LinkedIn or at dublinsmith@<br />

yahoo.com.<br />

This article first appeared in National Jeweler<br />

IC-M8-9RG<br />

LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY<br />

www.ikecho.com.au | enquiries@ikecho.com.au<br />

Tel: (02) 9266 0636

By Cheryl D. Harty<br />





Bespoke jewellery designer, Gillian Hillman specialises in handcrafting beautiful jewellery<br />

for the everyday woman and aims to produce striking, edgy pieces that are wearable and<br />

comfortable. “I like to think that people will get to wear the piece frequently, rather than<br />

having something tucked away in a drawer for years.”<br />

The Melbourne based designer has been<br />

making jewellery for three decades.<br />

Her foray into jewellery began when<br />

she put aside her economic studies at<br />

Monash University and took up a gold and<br />

silversmithing course at RMIT. She started<br />

working in the jewellery trade full time after<br />

deciding to postpone her graduating year until<br />

she had more bench practice.<br />

“I realised that I would gain more from the<br />

design lecturers if my skills were improved.<br />

So, I took a year off, and worked for Stuart<br />

Ferguson, a manufacturing jeweller, making<br />

master patterns and then for a specialist<br />

handmade business called Puzsar jewellery,”<br />

she said.<br />

When Ms Hillman returned to complete her<br />

Gold and Silversmithing Diploma, she won the<br />

jewellery prize for that year. In her final year<br />

of college she started her business, working<br />

initially on private commissions. For more<br />

than 20 years she exhibited at Makers Mark, in<br />

group exhibitions and solo shows.<br />

Following her graduation, she took up various<br />

short business courses, aware that that as<br />

well as being a designer, she needed to know<br />

how to manage a business. In order to pursue<br />

making her own designs, she needed to be<br />

self-employed.<br />

“My first full time workshop was in North<br />

Melbourne at the Meat Market Craft Centre,<br />

a fabulous old meat market that had been<br />

taken over and converted to a haven for crafts<br />

people with private studios, access and private<br />

workshops, as well as a large exhibition space.<br />

It included a craft shop, and Craft Council of<br />

Victoria had an office there for a while,” she<br />

recalled.<br />

Over the years, Ms Hillman has visited<br />

many jewellery galleries, including the<br />

memorable Pforzeim Gallery in Germany.<br />

She is particularly inspired by Etruscan, and<br />

pre-Columbian metalwork and is an admirer<br />

of work by various German jewellers such<br />

as Herman Junger and Godwin Baum. Last<br />

year, she discovered a Scottish jeweller called<br />

Jacqueline Ryan, describing her work as<br />

“extraordinary, and a real inspiration.”<br />

Initially wedding and engagement rings<br />

formed a large part of the Gillian Hillman<br />

Design offer but now, it has expanded to<br />

include necklaces, earrings and bangles,<br />

favouring precious metals, gemstones and<br />

pearls.<br />

38<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

“I am currently enjoying working with large<br />

Australian baroque pearls from Northern<br />

Australia. I’ve set these with black diamonds<br />

– the lustre, the colour and the shape of the<br />

pearls is all very inspiring. Opals too, are so<br />

underappreciated, but so beautiful,” she said.<br />

Ms Hillman says she is fortunate to have some<br />

“terrific suppliers” in Australia. During visits to<br />

Melbourne based fairs she has found they are<br />

happy to give her “fabulous stones and pearls”<br />

on consignment to show her customers.<br />

*As an artisan,<br />

Ms Hillman enjoys<br />

learning new skills<br />

from the ancient<br />

Korean technique of<br />

Keum-bu to forging,<br />

hydraulic press<br />

work and monumé<br />

and steel blanking. “Keum-bu is a bonding<br />

of 24ct gold to the surface of another metal,<br />

usually fine silver. Sterling silver, used for<br />

jewellery, must have a fine silver layer created<br />

on it to allow attachment,” she explained.<br />

“This is achieved by a process called depletion<br />

gilding, an involved and time consuming<br />

process, but highly effective.”<br />

Each design can be tailored for each individual.<br />

Different face shapes, for instance, will need<br />

varying shapes and lengths of earrings. By<br />

working directly with clients, Ms Hillman<br />

can make sure each person has something<br />

customised to suit them. Appreciating that<br />

a lot of people can’t visualise well, she will<br />

often make a piece in silver to show the client<br />

before working in gold. This way, she is able to<br />

fine tune ideas.<br />

“I love the way a small change in design can<br />

significantly change the look of a piece. I<br />

always have a significant collection to show<br />

customers who come by appointment during<br />

the year, and it’s a great starting point to<br />

have rings for them to try on before starting a<br />

remodelling or commission from scratch,” she<br />

said.<br />

For more than 20 years, the designer has<br />

turned her St Kilda West studio into a mini<br />

gallery space featuring various artists’<br />

paintings or her own photography, to welcome<br />

customers to view the entire collection. The<br />

annual exhibition is celebrated with opening<br />

drinks and remains open for the December<br />

period.<br />

“The idea is to create a friendly relaxed<br />

environment in which people can try on pieces<br />

and look for gifts. Many customers have been<br />

coming to me for more than 30 years, which is<br />

really gratifying,” she said.<br />

In recent years, Ms Hillman has partnered<br />

with the Ruffy Gourmet Store, a gourmet<br />

provedore located in Ruffy, Victoria, for<br />

weekend exhibitions - a cross promotional<br />

concept that includes champagne breakfasts<br />

and dinners. She also holds a jewellery<br />

exhibition in an annual picnic weekend at<br />

the vineyard of Ovens Valley winery, Mayford<br />

Wines, to celebrate the new vintage. “These<br />

events are mutually beneficial, but also a lot<br />

of fun.”<br />

Ms Hillman moved her full-time business<br />

model into a part time one when she started<br />

her family and then analysed what was most<br />

important to her. She looked closely at what<br />

she enjoyed and whether it made economic<br />

sense moving forward. In her early days, she<br />

supplied up to eight galleries around Australia.<br />

Now, working directly with clients has<br />

becomea larger part of her practice and she<br />

finds it useful for feedback.<br />

For Gillian Hillman Design, the pandemic this<br />

year has been a chance for the artisan to slow<br />

down and to do more study. “I love Peter<br />

Keep’s <strong>Jewellery</strong> Solutions videos. I am also<br />

serious about my French studies, which also<br />

take quite a bit of time. I walk each morning<br />

and listen to the French news and have online<br />

face to face classes each week,” she said,<br />

acknowledging that there have been some<br />

supply issues during this time.<br />

“Like everyone else in Victoria it has been<br />

difficult but my gold dealer is still operating<br />

thankfully. The benefit is that I have<br />

reappraised my stones and found some<br />

beautiful precious stones I had overlooked<br />

The idea is to create<br />

a friendly relaxed<br />

environment in which<br />

people can try on pieces<br />

and look for gifts. Many<br />

customers have been<br />

coming to me for more<br />

than 30 years, which is<br />

really gratifying<br />

for years. My<br />

customers<br />

appreciate that<br />

we are in difficult<br />

times but after<br />

the lockdown we<br />

will be able to meet face to face and I can<br />

present drawings and samples for them to try<br />

on, soon, hopefully,” she said.<br />

As a designer working for herself, Ms Hillman<br />

feels the best part of her work is the pleasure<br />

she derives from making jewellery and seeing<br />

the happiness on people’s faces. In addition,<br />

she cites the flexibility it has given her to<br />

manage a busy family of three children and a<br />

husband with a demanding job.<br />

<strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 39

SHOP! ANZ <strong>2020</strong> AWARDS OPEN FOR ENTRIES<br />

Three new categories launched<br />

Entries are now open for Shop! ANZ’s 23rd annual retail marketing awards, with the best<br />

in Australian retail marketing campaigns to be recognised across 26 categories, covering<br />

physical displays and shopper experience.<br />

The prestigious Shop! Awards recognise and reward best<br />

practice, innovation, and excellence in retail and shopper<br />

marketing. Open to both Shop! ANZ members and nonmembers,<br />

entrants vie for distinguished gold, silver and bronze prizes,<br />

in addition to the award’s highest honour, the Tom Harris Retail<br />

Marketing Award (named after Shop! ANZ founder, Tom Harris).<br />

The <strong>2020</strong> Awards program will boast a number of new features,<br />

including a new culturally sensitive trophy, four new categories and<br />

an extended eligibility period to take into account the impact of the<br />

Covid-19 pandemic on retail marketing.<br />

Carla Bridge, General Manager of Shop! ANZ, said that despite the<br />

setback of Covid-19 restrictions earlier in <strong>2020</strong>, this year’s awards are<br />

shaping up to be the biggest and best yet.<br />

“Like many, Covid-19 has afforded us the opportunity to reinvent the<br />

way things have been done in the past, and as a result we’ve launched<br />

a number of new categories to cater to the market where we are at<br />

now, as well as overhauling some historic elements that were in need<br />

of a modern approach,” said Ms Bridge.<br />

“We’ve introduced two one-off Covid-19 related categories to<br />

recognise the impact that the Coronavirus restrictions have had on<br />

the way we market to shoppers in retail environments and beyond.<br />

Retail marketing these days has a much broader remit than the store<br />

footprint, and the Coronavirus has really cemented that this year.”<br />

Submissions are open from October 8,<strong>2020</strong> to January 18, 2021.<br />

Entries must have been in market in the period between July 1, 2019<br />

and December 31, <strong>2020</strong>.Australian and New Zealand designers and<br />

producers of retail marketing material, brand owners, agencies,<br />

suppliers, and retailers are eligible to enter the Awards.<br />

New Categories for <strong>2020</strong>:<br />

Covid-19-Safe Retail Continuity Product<br />

Awarded to the best product created specifically to help or enable<br />

brands and retailers of any type to continue operations “CovidSafe”<br />

for employees and shoppers. May also include interesting/innovative<br />

integration of technology and sensory components that work together<br />

to create a greater connection with shopper. Must have been infield<br />

between 1 March <strong>2020</strong> and 31 December <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

Campaign Response to a Covid-19 Changing Shopper<br />

Awarded to the best campaign or retail transformation project<br />

designed specifically to cater to changes in shopper behaviour or<br />

challenges arising from the Covid-19 pandemic and social restrictions.<br />

Entries must have an insight or address a new shopper behaviour<br />

created by Covid-19, taking into consideration changes to shopping<br />

environments and behaviours can include one or several elements.<br />

This category may also include supporting of a business 'pivot' from<br />

their core business due to Covid-19. Must have been instore between<br />

1 March <strong>2020</strong> and 31 December <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

Produced in ANZ<br />

Awarded to the best Australian or New Zealand produced temporary<br />

or permanent display in any Australian or NZ retailer. Entries must<br />

be 100% produced in Australia or NZ (excluding componentry/<br />

some materials) by an Australian or New Zealand-based business. All<br />

processing of raw materials such as printing, fabrication of metal work<br />

and timber etc as well as assembly and packing of the unit must be<br />

completed in either Australia or NZ.<br />

Winners will be announced at retail marketing’s night of nights, the Shop! Awards Gala Dinner, on Thursday 25 March, 2021.<br />

Awards criteria, and step by step guides on how to enter the Awards online are available at www.shopassociation.org.au/enter-awards<br />

For more information, or to enter the Awards, visit www.shopassociation.org.au/about-awards<br />

40<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

TOP GUN:<br />


In 2018, IWC Schaffhausen created its Top Gun watch in honour of the US Naval Aviation Community and only available to Top Gun graduates. Now,<br />

IWC's range of Pilot's Watches has been expanded with a new limited edition.<br />

The new model takes inspiration from the “Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor” watch. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition “SFTI”, limited<br />

to 1500 pieces, follows the tradition of IWC’s Top Gun watches. It is made with extraordinarily robust materials to withstand the extreme strain that<br />

pilots experience in the cockpit of supersonic jets like the F/A-18 Super Hornet.<br />

The large 44-millimeter case is made of black zirconium oxide ceramic. With a Vickers rating second only to<br />

that of a diamond, ceramic ranks among the hardest substances on earth. It is extremely scratch-resistant<br />

and its stealthy black color is totally anti-reflective. The case back and chronograph pushers are made of<br />

Ceratanium®, a recent innovation from IWC’s materials engineers. This new material is as light and durable as<br />

titanium but at the same time as similarly hard and scratch-resistant as ceramic. Thanks to the combination<br />

of ceramic and Ceratanium®, the chronograph boasts an entirely matte black design. The tactical look is<br />

completed by a black dial and black hands coated with luminescence. The small second hand and the tail of<br />

the chronograph second hand, which takes the form of a jet, add a touch of red to the instrument-style dial.<br />

Ticking away inside the sturdy case is the IWC manufactured 69380 calibre. The robust chronograph<br />

movement in classic column-wheel design ensures precise timekeeping and the measurement of stopwatch<br />

times of up to 12 hours. Another function is a date and weekday display. The sporty timepiece is fitted with a<br />

green textile strap.<br />


James Bond and Omega are back together for their ninth Bond film, this time a mission<br />

to rescue a kidnapped scientist. As ever, 007 is equipped with his faithful Seamaster as<br />

he follows the trail of a mysterious villain armed with dangerous new technology.<br />

On-screen, fans can spot three Omega watches worn by the movie heroes. James Bond<br />

(Daniel Craig) wears the lightweight Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition, which is packed<br />

with innovation and style. New agent Nomi (Lashana Lynch) wears a 38mm Seamaster<br />

Aqua Terra with a black dial and black NATO strap, and Moneypenny (Naomie Harris) is<br />

equipped with a 27.4mm De Ville Prestige on a hunter green leather strap.<br />

The Bond watch was a creative collaboration between the actor and Omega which<br />

remained in close contact with Daniel Craig and the filmmakers during the creation of<br />

this unique watch. Craig’s influence and advice played a big role in the final design, and<br />

his knowledge of James Bond was critical in creating a suitable timepiece for the spy.<br />

42<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

Seiko 5 Sports<br />

Naruto and Boruto<br />

special release<br />

There are seven new Seiko 5 Sports creations inspired by two leading Japanese animations, NARUTO and BORUTO.<br />

NARUTO was first broadcasted in Japan in 2002 and then introduced abroad, and has since fascinated fans throughout the world.<br />

BORUTO is the sequel to the series and centers on Naruto’s son, Boruto Uzumaki, whose adventure continues today.<br />

Each of the seven creations capture both animation's central characters:<br />

Naruto, Sasuke, Shikamaru, Lee, Gaara from NARUTO, and Boruto and Sarada from BORUTO.<br />

Introduced in 1968 and re-born in 2019, Seiko 5 Sports has offered<br />

a wide variety of durable and reliable mechanical watches for watch<br />

lovers of every age for over half a century.<br />

This December, there are seven new Seiko 5 Sports creations inspired<br />

by two leading Japanese animations, Naruto and Boruto. Naruto was<br />

first broadcasted in Japan in 2002 and then introduced abroad, and has<br />

since fascinated fans throughout the world. Boruto is the sequel to the<br />

series and centers on Naruto’s son, Boruto Uzumaki, whose adventure<br />

continues today.<br />

Each of the seven creations capture both animation’s central<br />

characters: Naruto, Sasuke, Shikamaru, Lee, Gaara from Naruto, and<br />

Boruto and Sarada from Boruto.<br />

The movements are all Seiko’s tried and trusted automatic<br />

Calibre 4R36, with 24 jewels, optional manual-winding, a<br />

41 hour power reserve and a hacking second hand. All are<br />

water-resistant to 10 bar and have see-through case backs.<br />

Each watch will come with a box inspired by the Earth<br />

and Heaven Scrolls from the Chunin Exams, a widescale<br />

examination used to test the skill of junior Ninja.<br />

The series will be available worldwide at Seiko<br />

Boutiques and selected retailing partners in<br />

December as limited editions of 6,500 each with<br />

recommended retail price in Australia of $695.<br />

<strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 43

Searay<br />

Pty Ltd<br />

www.searay.net.au - info@searay.net.au - (03) 9095 6070<br />

Use fluorescence to detect synthetics and<br />

treatments for diamonds and other<br />

gems. Officionados may prefer a<br />

spectrometer system. Gemetrix<br />

products can help you.<br />


Capitalise on<br />

the Argyle premium<br />

by having a certificate<br />

of diamond origin<br />

based on<br />

indepth science<br />

<br />



How to Prepare a Graver<br />

If you want to learn how to pavé set or grain set, you will need to<br />

learn how to prepare a graver. Gravers are available in a variety of<br />

shapes for different cutting tasks,but they are not supplied ready to<br />

use. You will need to mount modify and sharpen them yourself. There<br />

are a number of ways to prepare gravers depending on the shape, the<br />

required task and what equipment you have at hand.<br />

This tutorial will show you how to prepare a carbon steel 2.5mm<br />

lozenge graver without using a bench grinder.<br />

1Although HHS gravers hold a cutting edge<br />

longer than those made of carbon steel,<br />

for your first set of gravers I recommend<br />

carbon steel, and as you become more<br />

confident with shaping gravers and using them<br />

you can upgrade and expand your range.<br />

When you buy rod shaped gravers such as<br />

lozenge and square profile, you will notice that<br />

they are very long. You will also have discovered<br />

that there are several handle shape and size<br />

options available on the market. It’s a case of<br />

what feels comfortable in your hand.<br />

For this demonstration, I will use a 60mm long<br />

mushroom handle. You will see why later.<br />

2The first thing you need to do, is mount<br />

the graver into the handle. If you have a<br />

small size or short handle you will need<br />

to shorten the graver tang first so that<br />

once it is driven into the handle the discoloured<br />

part of the tang steel is all the way inside the<br />

handle. With the 60mm handle I don’t need to<br />

cut it back. Drill into the handle to create a hole<br />

slightly smaller than the graver tang width (2mm<br />

in this case) Drill in as straight as possible, to<br />

around 60% of the handle length. Rotate the drill<br />

carefully to open the hole just enough for half<br />

the tang to enter.<br />

3Place the graver rod firmly into a bench<br />

vice with all the tang exposed. Use a<br />

large hammer to pound the handle into<br />

place. It will take a few strikes. Ensure<br />

you strike the handle square on as the steel<br />

could break if you are offline.<br />

If your handle has a flat side, line it up with the<br />

graver point so that when it rests on your bench<br />

surface the point is always down, plus it will feel<br />

more comfortable in your hand.<br />

4<br />

Once the graver is fixed to the handle it<br />

can be cut to the right length.<br />

Place the graver handle into the palm of<br />

your hand. Hold it comfortably - not too tight.<br />

Now stretch your thumb out along the graver<br />

as far as it will go and mark the steel at that<br />

point. Your thumb needs to contact the piece<br />

you are working on, as it acts as a guide and<br />

break. If you are not too certain just make the<br />

graver a little longer. You can always shorten it<br />

if need be.<br />

5Place the graver assembly into your vice,<br />

exposing the mark just at the vice jaw<br />

edge.<br />

As a safety precaution, I recommend taping over<br />

the graver point, especially if you are in a room<br />

with other people. The last thing you want is for<br />

the steel to fly off and hit somebody when you<br />

break it off.<br />

6<br />

For this step, make sure that you wear<br />

safety glasses, and it is a good idea to<br />

hold a towel ready to catch the excess<br />

graver rod in when you strike it.<br />

Using a large hammer, strike the graver rod<br />

squarely with one swift hit. The graver should<br />

break off at the marked point.<br />

Note: Your vice needs to be clamped firmly at<br />

the marked point.<br />

46<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

7<br />

You will now see the benefit of using<br />

a long handle for preparing rod profile<br />

steel gravers. As you can see, you will<br />

have enough left over to make another<br />

graver: Bonus.<br />

If you have a grinder you can use it at this<br />

stage, but it is crucial that you keep the steel<br />

cool whilst shaping it. I will use a rough grit<br />

diamond disk to shape this graver.<br />

8<br />

Hold your drill handpiece against your<br />

bench peg and move the graver tip onto<br />

the rotating disk. Do not run your disk<br />

at full speed, set your motor to around<br />

1500 rpm, if you have that option. Do not apply<br />

too much pressure to the disk as it could break.<br />

Grind around a 45° angle at the graver tip. The<br />

face angle can be increased to 60 degrees to<br />

help strengthen the cutting edge if you prefer.<br />

An angle lower than 45 degrees will weaken the<br />

cutting edge which may cause it break.<br />

9<br />

The face of the graver must be kept<br />

sharp and polished, so you need to<br />

reduce the face size. Grind away about<br />

20mm of the spine portion above the<br />

point. Periodically dip the graver in water or<br />

allow it to air cool during this step. Overheating<br />

it will cause loss of tool temper and point<br />

strength. Once you have done this, the face of<br />

the graver will be a triangular shape.<br />

10<br />

an Eze-lap diamond sharpener).<br />

Use an Edenta fine diamond<br />

disk to finish grinding the face,<br />

otherwise hand sharpen it with a<br />

sharpening stone (I prefer to use<br />

Test the sharpness on your thumb nail. The<br />

graver should not slip off at 45° contact. After<br />

each step of the sharpening stab the tip of<br />

the graver into a small piece of hardwood (like<br />

your bench peg) to remove the flashing of<br />

metal.<br />

112000 grit emery paper, then polished<br />

The two belly facets and the face of<br />

the graver should be finished with<br />

on leather or with an Edenta Cera<br />

Gloss wheel. This will ensure that the lifted grain<br />

will have a nice finish. The emery paper should<br />

be fixed to a perfectly flat surface such as a piece<br />

of glass or Perspex. This will prevent the edges<br />

of the tool being rounded during his process. It<br />

is a good practice to engrave an ID mark on the<br />

handle so that you know which graver shape you<br />

have selected.<br />

12<br />

Always keep your gravers sharp. A<br />

dull graver, or one prepared with<br />

an improper cutting point can<br />

be dangerous. It will slip off the<br />

work surface and could potentially gouge you or<br />

another unintended target.<br />

It is now time to test out your new tool by picking<br />

up some grains of metal. In this case I have fixed a<br />

disk of copper onto a broom handle using shellac.<br />

The more practice you put in, the better you will<br />

become.<br />

Peter Keep is a<br />

master jeweller<br />

and teacher. He<br />

offers structured<br />

online courses<br />

that have helped<br />

thousands of<br />

students around<br />

the world improve<br />

their skills.<br />

The video tutorial for this lesson plus all the other graver preparation lessons can be found<br />

in the Pro level subscription plan, or you can purchase just this course. Follow the link:<br />

https://www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au/courses/graver-preparation<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Training Solutions offers a<br />

comprehensive online training service<br />

for the jewellery industry including the<br />

popular Ten Stage Stone Setting Course.<br />

Check out all the courses and options.<br />

www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au<br />

<strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 47


Devino Pearls | +61 2 9261 3555<br />

A new production of South Sea and Tahitian pearls has just arrived<br />

at Devino Pearls. They include white, gold and black pearls and<br />

round to baroque shapes.<br />

www.devino.com<br />

Bianc | +61 412 251 257<br />

Bianc’s Lustre collection is soft and feminine featuring pastel<br />

aquamarine and freshwater pearls set in sterling silver gold plated.<br />

New season collections are online now!<br />

info@bianc.com.au<br />

@bianc_jewellery<br />

www.bianc.com.au<br />

O'Neils Affiliated | +61 3 9654 5200<br />

The Ceylon sapphire range at O’Neils Affiliated<br />

continues to be topped up with sensational<br />

new 1ct to 7ct cushions, ovals, round brilliant<br />

cuts and more.<br />

www.oagems.com<br />

O'Neils Affiliated | +61 3 9654 5200<br />

At O’Neils Affiliated, colour is our passion!<br />

Fantastic new blue zircons from the Pailin<br />

province, Cambodia are in stock and available<br />

online now!<br />

www.oagems.com<br />

Ikecho Australia | +61 2 9266 0636<br />

Sterling silver natural pink Edison round<br />

10mm 18ct rose gold-plated pendant with<br />

chain and matching earrings. Product codes:<br />

MF790PE-RGP & MF790PP-RGP.<br />

www.ikecho.com.au<br />

48<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre | +61 7 3221 3838<br />

Sterling silver six claw Cz studs (available in 5mm, 6mm and<br />

8mm) and six claw 8mm Cz set pendant with chain.<br />

www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com<br />

Zahar<br />

The Indiana collection by Zahar features classic<br />

hoops and on-trend styles in a high polished<br />

18ct gold finish. Or make it personalised with our<br />

Letter or Zodiac collections!<br />

Zahar’s collections are brass based, nickel free<br />

with stainless steel posts and are 18ct gold plated.<br />

All styles retail for under $99!<br />

New season products are on online now!<br />

info@zahar.com.au<br />

@zahar.collection<br />

www.zahar.com.au<br />

Kagi | www.kagi.co.nz<br />

Kagi’s new Blue Lagoon Collection features silver accents and freshwater pearls inspired<br />

by the ocean. Pair these pieces together for an effortless style suitable to be worn night or<br />

day.<br />

For ordering contact Marienne Barbara<br />

orders@kagi.net<br />

Contact Kagi on 1800 465 244 NOW.<br />

Allucia <strong>Jewellery</strong> | +61 408 598 909<br />

New designs from Allucia <strong>Jewellery</strong>.<br />

Rhodium plated sterling silver with natural<br />

gems available in amethyst, rose quartz and<br />

lemon quartz.<br />

www.allucia.com.au<br />

info@allucia.com.au<br />

Ellani Collections<br />

Ellani’s stunning sterling silver pieces are always<br />

on trend. Find the extensive range online now.<br />

www.ellanicollections.com.au<br />

Najo | +61 2 9415 6663<br />

Najo’s perennially stylish collections are<br />

perfect for spring, summer and Christmas.<br />

www.najo.com.au<br />

<strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 49

services<br />

services<br />

Supplier to<br />

all buying groups<br />

Fast delivery Australia wide<br />

services<br />





MILN & CO. Pty Ltd<br />

Ph: 02 4655 7707 M: 0412 702 834<br />

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Lancier Watch Bands - Leather, metal, sports.<br />

Watchglasses. Seals. Batteries. Quartz Movements.<br />

Pins/tools. <strong>Jewellery</strong> findings. J C Hurst Bangles.<br />

Fischer Barometers and Tide Clocks<br />




Chris O’Neill<br />

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P: 02 9380 4742 ∙ F: 02 8580 6168<br />

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Nearly 40 years of trusted<br />

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M: +61 491 174 922<br />

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The classifieds section is an excellent place for suppliers<br />

and manufacturers to advertise products and services<br />

in a long-running, low cost way.<br />

All size ads are available and may include<br />

product photos.<br />

Visit our website to download our<br />

media pack for prices.<br />

www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

Relaxing...<br />

Who knew?<br />

When you turn Donald Duck upside down,<br />

you get the other Donald.<br />

50<br />

jewellery world - <strong>November</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

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