Bay Harbour: November 04, 2020
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PAGE 12 Wednesday <strong>November</strong> 4 <strong>2020</strong><br />
BAY HARBOUR<br />
Latest Canterbury news at starnews.co.nz<br />
Wine<br />
Port is complex on the palate<br />
• By Mark Henderson<br />
PORT IS a fortified wine from<br />
the Douro Valley in northern<br />
Portugal.<br />
Its history dates back more than<br />
300 years to the wars between the<br />
English and the French, which<br />
curtailed the supply of wine from<br />
France.<br />
Enterprising English merchants<br />
began looking further afield and<br />
began shipping the dark and powerful<br />
wines from Portugal.<br />
To maintain the wine’s freshness<br />
and stability on the journey<br />
to England, brandy spirit was<br />
added to the barrels of wine - its<br />
higher alcohol affording greater<br />
protection against spoilage.<br />
At some point, brandy spirit<br />
was added to the still fermenting<br />
wine, and port was born.<br />
The grape must (the mix of<br />
grape juice and grape skin) is run<br />
into fermentation vessels, with<br />
fermentation allowed to proceed<br />
for barely a couple of days.<br />
The addition of neutral spirit<br />
then kills the yeast, arresting fermentation<br />
and thus retaining the<br />
natural grape sugars in the wine,<br />
while also extracting colour and<br />
flavour from the skins.<br />
In the final wine, spirit makes<br />
up roughly 20 per cent of the volume,<br />
leading to an alcohol level<br />
ranging from 18-20 per cent.<br />
Tawny ports take their name<br />
from the colour of the wine,<br />
resulting from ageing and controlled<br />
oxidation of the wine.<br />
Unlike the boldly fruit-driven<br />
Ruby, LBV and Vintage styles,<br />
Tawny styles offer mellow, nutty,<br />
“rancio” characters, classically<br />
paired with nuts and blue cheese,<br />
or contemplatively sipped by<br />
themselves.<br />
Burmester Jockey Club<br />
Tawny Reserve Port<br />
Price: $46-$47<br />
Rating: Very good to excellent<br />
Caramel/butterscotch, raisins,<br />
spices/clove, walnut with a<br />
sherry-like hint.<br />
This offers a sweet golden<br />
syrup-like character with toffee<br />
apple and creme brulee “burnt<br />
sugar” echoing on the palate.<br />
The overt sweetness pares back<br />
with aeration, while crispness<br />
grows, bringing this into a nice<br />
place.<br />
Shows more aged tawny characters<br />
than fruit.<br />
www.burmester.pt<br />
Taylors Fine Tawny Port<br />
Price: $37-$39<br />
Rating: Very good<br />
Bonfire smoke, charry notes,<br />
burnt toffee, boot polish, spiced<br />
fruit. Creamy and viscous,<br />
mouthfilling, there’s sweetness<br />
here, yet a tangy undercurrent,<br />
too.<br />
As it opens up, there’s stewed<br />
plums, berryfruit and sultanas,<br />
flowing to a smoke and walnut<br />
accented close.<br />
I may be curmudgeonly on my<br />
rating, but I find the burnt/charry<br />
elements dominating.<br />
www.taylor.pt<br />
Fonseca Tawny Port<br />
Price: $37-$39<br />
Rating: Excellent to outstanding<br />
Subtle yet attractively expressed<br />
nose with toffee, walnuts,<br />
spices and fruit cake, a little wood<br />
smoke with time. Sweetness<br />
initially, but drier overall with<br />
freshness and crispness driving<br />
the palate adding nuts, spices and<br />
dried fruits.<br />
There’s excellent complexity<br />
here with time adding a rancio<br />
nuance. Nicely balanced, rich,<br />
mouthfilling and full of appeal.<br />
www.fonseca.pt<br />
Niepoort Tawny Port<br />
Price: $38-$40<br />
Rating: Excellent to outstanding<br />
More fruit evident on the nose<br />
adding treacle, orange oil and<br />
growing fragrance: lots going on.<br />
Creamy and rich on entry, the<br />
fruit leading backed by burnt<br />
orange and milk chocolate.<br />
Grows in power and depth,<br />
showing excellent complexity and<br />
a long, fruit-filled close.<br />
Delightful and rather moreish.<br />
www.niepoort-vinhos.com<br />
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