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Bay Harbour: November 04, 2020

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PAGE 12 Wednesday <strong>November</strong> 4 <strong>2020</strong><br />

BAY HARBOUR<br />

Latest Canterbury news at starnews.co.nz<br />

Wine<br />

Port is complex on the palate<br />

• By Mark Henderson<br />

PORT IS a fortified wine from<br />

the Douro Valley in northern<br />

Portugal.<br />

Its history dates back more than<br />

300 years to the wars between the<br />

English and the French, which<br />

curtailed the supply of wine from<br />

France.<br />

Enterprising English merchants<br />

began looking further afield and<br />

began shipping the dark and powerful<br />

wines from Portugal.<br />

To maintain the wine’s freshness<br />

and stability on the journey<br />

to England, brandy spirit was<br />

added to the barrels of wine - its<br />

higher alcohol affording greater<br />

protection against spoilage.<br />

At some point, brandy spirit<br />

was added to the still fermenting<br />

wine, and port was born.<br />

The grape must (the mix of<br />

grape juice and grape skin) is run<br />

into fermentation vessels, with<br />

fermentation allowed to proceed<br />

for barely a couple of days.<br />

The addition of neutral spirit<br />

then kills the yeast, arresting fermentation<br />

and thus retaining the<br />

natural grape sugars in the wine,<br />

while also extracting colour and<br />

flavour from the skins.<br />

In the final wine, spirit makes<br />

up roughly 20 per cent of the volume,<br />

leading to an alcohol level<br />

ranging from 18-20 per cent.<br />

Tawny ports take their name<br />

from the colour of the wine,<br />

resulting from ageing and controlled<br />

oxidation of the wine.<br />

Unlike the boldly fruit-driven<br />

Ruby, LBV and Vintage styles,<br />

Tawny styles offer mellow, nutty,<br />

“rancio” characters, classically<br />

paired with nuts and blue cheese,<br />

or contemplatively sipped by<br />

themselves.<br />

Burmester Jockey Club<br />

Tawny Reserve Port<br />

Price: $46-$47<br />

Rating: Very good to excellent<br />

Caramel/butterscotch, raisins,<br />

spices/clove, walnut with a<br />

sherry-like hint.<br />

This offers a sweet golden<br />

syrup-like character with toffee<br />

apple and creme brulee “burnt<br />

sugar” echoing on the palate.<br />

The overt sweetness pares back<br />

with aeration, while crispness<br />

grows, bringing this into a nice<br />

place.<br />

Shows more aged tawny characters<br />

than fruit.<br />

www.burmester.pt<br />

Taylors Fine Tawny Port<br />

Price: $37-$39<br />

Rating: Very good<br />

Bonfire smoke, charry notes,<br />

burnt toffee, boot polish, spiced<br />

fruit. Creamy and viscous,<br />

mouthfilling, there’s sweetness<br />

here, yet a tangy undercurrent,<br />

too.<br />

As it opens up, there’s stewed<br />

plums, berryfruit and sultanas,<br />

flowing to a smoke and walnut<br />

accented close.<br />

I may be curmudgeonly on my<br />

rating, but I find the burnt/charry<br />

elements dominating.<br />

www.taylor.pt<br />

Fonseca Tawny Port<br />

Price: $37-$39<br />

Rating: Excellent to outstanding<br />

Subtle yet attractively expressed<br />

nose with toffee, walnuts,<br />

spices and fruit cake, a little wood<br />

smoke with time. Sweetness<br />

initially, but drier overall with<br />

freshness and crispness driving<br />

the palate adding nuts, spices and<br />

dried fruits.<br />

There’s excellent complexity<br />

here with time adding a rancio<br />

nuance. Nicely balanced, rich,<br />

mouthfilling and full of appeal.<br />

www.fonseca.pt<br />

Niepoort Tawny Port<br />

Price: $38-$40<br />

Rating: Excellent to outstanding<br />

More fruit evident on the nose<br />

adding treacle, orange oil and<br />

growing fragrance: lots going on.<br />

Creamy and rich on entry, the<br />

fruit leading backed by burnt<br />

orange and milk chocolate.<br />

Grows in power and depth,<br />

showing excellent complexity and<br />

a long, fruit-filled close.<br />

Delightful and rather moreish.<br />

www.niepoort-vinhos.com<br />

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