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Auto Detailing News Winter issue

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A Little More You Should Know About Paint<br />

SOLVENT POPPING<br />

You’re not a painter, but do you know<br />

what “solvent popping” is? Solvent popping<br />

occurs when trapped solvent in the<br />

paint expands arid breaks through the<br />

applied paint film. Inside each solvent<br />

kernel is moisture, add heat and the water<br />

expands and blows it apart. The solvent<br />

is like spheres, you can actually see<br />

them embedded if you go down through<br />

a dried paint film, especially a clear coat.<br />

They reach different levels in the paint<br />

film, and you cannot buff them out. If<br />

you sand them, then you are left with the<br />

problem of pin holing. Bottom-line, the<br />

paint has to be removed and re-sprayed.<br />

What types of things occur with solvent<br />

popping? Here are just a couple:<br />

Blistering: This describes bumps in<br />

dried paint film that looks like small pimples<br />

or bubbles. This can be caused by<br />

moisture trapped in the paint film, insufficient<br />

drying time after wet-sanding,<br />

contamination in the air lines used by the<br />

painter or even heavy humidity during<br />

paint application.<br />

Air Entrapment: This is relatively rare<br />

in painting and can be caused by trapped<br />

air pockets in the wet paint film. Having<br />

the spray gun too close or moving the gun<br />

too slowly while not having sufficient air<br />

pressure can cause this problem. It usually<br />

can be rubbed out.<br />

Dust Contamination: This is not<br />

as much a problem today because of the<br />

implementation of dust-free paint booths.<br />

The chief cause of the problems today include<br />

the use of poor grade masking paper,<br />

particles coming from inexpensive degrading<br />

air lines, poor vehicle prep and a painter<br />

with dirty work clothes. Dust particles<br />

usually will rub out.<br />

To best understand the concept of solvent<br />

popping what I want to do is ask and<br />

answer a few questions about solvent popping<br />

that were presented and answered by<br />

a number of automotive coatings experts.<br />

• What is happening when<br />

solvent popping occurs?<br />

Simply, solvent in the paint is coming out. Solvent is the<br />

medium used to spray the paint. And, the solvent has to<br />

completely evaporate for the paint to cure or crosslink.<br />

This does not happen when the solvent “pops.” What<br />

happens is the top layer of the paint crosslinks with solvent<br />

underneath. Later, when the solvent tries to evaporate,<br />

that is to go from a liquid state to a gas, you have a<br />

solvent pop. It is just like popcorn where there is moisture<br />

inside of each kernel. Add heat and the water expands<br />

inside the kernel and blows it apart. Paint does the same<br />

thing, blowing the paint apart.<br />

• What is the gas you speak of? Air?<br />

No, it is solvent changing from a liquid to a gaseous state.<br />

• Is the gas flammable?<br />

Yes, but they would be better called combustible on a DOT<br />

scale.<br />

• So for the painter and/or the detailer this is<br />

a bad problem?<br />

Yes, without question because there is not a quick fix. Bottom<br />

line, if solvent popping has occurred on a paint finish it<br />

has to be removed and repainted.<br />

• What actually causes solvent popping?<br />

It can be a combination of things in the painting process.<br />

The spray gun, the painter and what is called film buildtoo<br />

much paint.<br />

• So even if you have a paint booth, good<br />

spray gun and an experienced painter, if<br />

too much paint is applied you can have a<br />

problem?<br />

There also is the <strong>issue</strong> of the solvent chosen. If the painter<br />

chooses too fast a solvent you are going to have problems.<br />

The biggest problem is the painter’s unwillingness<br />

to change, to do things the old way. You have atmospheric<br />

changes depending on the season and you must adjust the<br />

solvents. In the fall things dry too slowly and in the spring<br />

is when you see solvent popping occur.<br />

• I have heard that shop owners tell their<br />

painters “don’t buy anymore solvent until you<br />

use up what we have got in inventory.”<br />

Is that a problem?<br />

As mentioned, there is a variety of solvents in every paint<br />

product. That means there will be a variety of evaporation<br />

rates in the solvents used to manufacture the paint. If<br />

the painter uses a fast reducer that does not mean that all<br />

the solvent in the paint would be “fast evaporating.” There<br />

also could be some slow evaporating solvent as well. As the<br />

temperature increases, if you continue to add fast solvent<br />

the top of the paint will form a film or skin over which<br />

traps the slow evaporating solvent, and eventually you will<br />

get solvent popping as this solvent tries to get out.<br />

• Are paint companies trying to develop<br />

products to reach the correct flow to avoid<br />

painter error?<br />

Yes! If the paint has to do things to adjust for poor chemistry<br />

then there is trouble. Paint companies need to put out “idiot-proof<br />

” paint, so to speak.<br />

• Until those products come along what can<br />

the painter do to prevent problems?<br />

The paint shops and detailers should purchase the “solvent<br />

package” that is designed for the paint. For example,<br />

when we talk about a clear-coat we mean ready-to-spray.<br />

Everything is there, paint, reducer, etc. We have designed<br />

a package and have tested it in a variety of situations. We<br />

know it works, if you use all the parts. Unfortunately, some<br />

shop owners, in an effort to save money, will buy cheap<br />

paint and cheap solvents. Some will buy good paint and<br />

cheap solvents.<br />

• You hear painters complain about the<br />

quality of the paint. For example, “the car<br />

was perfect last night but when I came in<br />

this morning the hood, roof and deck were all<br />

bubbled over.” What is this all about?<br />

This was a problem with air dry lacquer primers and sealers,<br />

but we don’t use these any longer. It can still occur,<br />

however, where there is super high humidity, like in the<br />

Southeast Coastal area in the late summer. What happens<br />

here is the painter uses slow solvents because it is hot, but<br />

with the humidity so high the solvents are even slower and<br />

won’t come out. Then you have heat speeding up the cross<br />

linking reaction.<br />

24 | AUTO DETAILING NEWS | VOL. 5, NO. 4 • WINTER 2020

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