Dahlia Magazine

Dahli aMay
2020

contents
2 • Dahlia.com
BEAUTY
Skincare
4
The best items to buy based on
your skin type.
8
Sunscreen
From drugstore to high end — what sunscreen
suits you this summer?
10
Makeup
The latest products that are worth the hype.
Exfoliate
When do I exfoliate and how
often? Here’s everything you
need to know.
7
FASHION
12
Swimsuits
The cutest suits for every body, and where
to find them.
15
Summer Trends
Fresh Outfit Ideas to Start Wearing Now
CULTURE
16
What to Read
We compiled a list of our favorite books to
read this summer, all by female authors.
17
What to Watch
Check out the latest TV shows and movies
that we’re crazy about.
may 2020
FEATURES
18
Jorja Smith
Andrea Gibson sat down with
English R&B singer/songwriter
Jorja Smith.
20
Glossier
How Glossier’s CEO Emily Weiss is
dominating the skincare industry.
By Elise Garcia.
22
Female Filmmakers
Discussing some of Hollywood’s top
female creatives.
D a h l i a
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R
I N C A
BEAUTY
What are the different skin types?
Finding the right skincare products and routine can be an
overwhelming and intimidating experience. So we broke
down skincare by skin type, and found the best items for
you to buy. Regardless of your skin type, keep in mind
that packaging and popularity are sometimes easy traps
that we fall into and shouldn’t hold too much weight or
value into what we select for what’s good for our skin.
If you’re going to buy a product based off a friend or
influencer’s recommendation, you shouldn’t just pay
attention to how good their skin looks now, but what type
of skin they were dealing with to start. That gives you a
more reliable indicator for how well the product will work
for you. Checking the ingredients list is still the best way
to go, no matter how many positive reviews or stars the
product has online.
S K
Combination
Combination skin is oily on the T-zone (forehead, nose and chin)
and dry or normal across the cheeks. This skin type can also
change from oily to dry or normal depending on the season and
climate. It’s important to strike that delicate balance between
keeping it adequately moisturized without overloading it with
pore-clogging oils. We recommend a gentle, sulfate-free formula
that doesn’t strip the skin of moisture or leave your skin feeling
greasy, like Acure’s Seriously Soothing Cleansing Cream ($10).
E
Dry
Dry skin can feel tight, rough or flaky, with visible fine lines around
the eyes and forehead, even after applying moisturizer. The key is
to use products that promote a functional skin barrier and prevent
what dermatologists call trans-epidermal water loss—or hydration
leaving the skin. Give your skin some TLC. Like Gatorade for a
dehydrated complexion, fragrance-free (and new to the U.S.) Curel
Japan Intensive Moisture Facial Cream ($30) restores skin’s natural
ceramides to significantly improve its barrier function.
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5

BEAUTY
Normal
Normal skin is not oily, dry and rarely breaks out. It usually
tolerates most skincare products and has a smooth, even texture.
In essence, taking care of normal skin requires addressing and
getting in front of the skin problems you don’t currently have on
your face. Look for ingredients serums/products with ingredients
such as vitamin C, AHA’s, hyaluronic acid or niacinamide. We
suggest the C15 Super Booster from Paula’s Choice ($49) with
15% pure Vitamin C to help brighten skin and maintain a smooth
complexion.
AHAs
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are water soluble,
meaning they exfoliate the surface of your skin,
drawing in moisture while they work to keep
your face hydrated. They’re superheroes at
“ungluing” dead cells to make skin brighter and
smoother with consistent use.
AHAs come in a few forms, like lactic, mandelic,
glycolic, and tarteric acid. If you have sensitive
skin or are new to chemical exfoliants, start
with lactic acid, which tends to be the gentlest
of the AHAs. Apply it every three nights on
clean, dry skin, waiting 10 full minutes before
applying the rest of your skincare. If your skin is
pretty “normal” with no real sensitivity issues,
try glycolic acid or salicylic acid since they’re
stronger and faster-acting.
Krave Beauty’s
Kale Lalu
yAHA: 5.25%
Glycolic Acid
Treatment ($25)
Sunday Riley
Good Genes
All-In-One Lactic
Acid Treatment
($122)
BHAs
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are oil soluble,
meaning they break down oil-clogged pores to
treat blackheads, whiteheads, and zits. They’re
also anti-inflammatory, meaning they’ll help
mitigate some of the irritating effects BHAs
can cause. And to make it all easier, there’s
really only one common BHA: salicylic acid, a
longtime favorite acne spot treatment.
Oily
Oily skin is often shiny, has large pores and is prone to blackheads,
milia and breakouts. The upside: oily skin usually ages better as
the sebum helps to keep the skin supple and lubricated. But with
the right cleanser — one meant to stop excess oil in its slick tracks
— minimizing your shine can require far less work. And many of
them also address one of the most common byproducts of oily
skin: clogged pores and acne breakouts. Even though they’re
giving their all to undo excess oil, you can expect the right cleanser
to respect your skin and not overdry it. Our current favorite is
CeraVe’s Foaming Facial Cleanser ($13).
The Ordinary
Glycolic Acid
7% Toning
Solution ($9)
Paula’s Choice
Skin Perfecting
2% BHA Liquid
($30)
If your skin is super tough, you can use your
BHA interchangeably with AHAs, but they
tend to be irritating and drying if used in high
concentrations over the entire face. So stick
with only one chemical exfoliant at a time at first,
and use your BHA every three nights on clean,
dry skin, waiting at least 10 minutes before
applying the rest of your skincare.
Sensitive
Sensitive skin flushes easily and can often react to skincare with
a stinging or burning sensation, bumps, pustules and erythema.
Choose products more carefully, because overly aggressive
products can rapidly inflame and irritate your delicate skin. It’s
best to avoid harsh, perfumed cleansers too. Give DermaDoctor’s
Calm, Cool & Corrected Calming Tranquility Cleanser ($32) a try.
This hypoallergenic, milky, non-drying medicated daily cleanser
works to control redness, flaking, irritation, and itching. This
formula gently lifts away and removes dirt, debris, and makeup
while leaving your skin hydrated and soothed.
Chemical exfoliators
are not only gentler
and more effective
than physical formulas,
but they also come in
two different forms,
depending on what
your skin needs.
How do I exfoliate?
6 • Dahlia.com
7

BEAUTY
SUNSCREEN
If there’s one thing you put on your face today, let it be
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EltaMD UV Clear Facial
Sunscreen SPF 46
This fragrance-free sunscreen is
lightweight and ideal for finicky skin
types. The oil-free formula provides light
moisture, rubs in quickly, and contains
niacinamide as an anti-inflammatory to
reduce sebum/oil. ($36)
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ultra-
Light Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50
This ultra-light formula contains
antioxidants and is easily absorbed into
the skin. It’s also noncomedogenic, great
for sensitive skin (fragrance-free), dries
matte, and doesn’t have that SPF smell.
($33)
sunscreen. A quality SPF (look for SPF 30 or higher) can
reduce your skin cancer risk and slow down the signs
of premature aging. The label on your face sunblock
needs to say “broad spectrum” to guard against both
UVA (aging) and UVB (burning) rays. But don’t worry,
we did the dirty work for you and lined up the top
dermatoligist-approved picks out there. Thank us later!
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COOLA Moisturizing Face SPF 30
Unscented Organic Sunscreen Lotion
Coola’s sunscreen is made with
naturally-derived, plant-based
ingredients and mineral UV blockers
like zinc and titanium dioxide to protect
your skin without leaving behind any
annoying greasy residue. ($36)
Neutrogena Clear Face Liquid Lotion
Sunscreen SPF 55
If you have oily, acne-prone skin,
this SPF is lightweight, oil-free,
noncomedogenic, and non-greasy, so
you won’t have to worry about clogged
pores or excess shine. ($11)
Cetaphil Pro Oil Absorbing
Moisturizer SPF 30
This face sunscreen not only protects the
skin with SPF 30, but controls oil while
maintaining hydration. Fragrance-free,
lightweight, and noncomedogenic, this
fast-absorbing SPF leaves a matte finish
for flawless wear. ($15)
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These latest products are worth the hype.
Fenty Beauty Glossy
Posse Mini Gloss
Bomb Set
A limited-edition collection of
five mini Gloss Bomb shades,
featuring bestselling FU$$Y and
four brand-new shades. Glossy
Posse is the essential collection
for a subtle glow or a poppin’
pout. ($29)
NARS Cool Crush
Eyeshadow Palette
The contrast of warm neutrals with
surprising pops of deep blue and
aqua make this palette the perfect
pick to transition you from spring to
summer. Long-wearing and creaseresistant,
each can be used to
shade, highlight and line the eyes.
($59)
Sigma Infinity Point Lipstick
For a bold summer night look, add this
lipstick to your collection. A huge plus?
The teardrop-shaped tube that encases
this lipstick ensures it never loses it sharp,
upward point, so you can have clean lip
lines without any added effort. ($25)
Tarte Cosmetics Maracuja
Tinted Hydrator
This summer you’ll be thankful for
lightweight, low-coverage foundations
like Tarte’s new Maracuja Tinted Hydrator.
Hydrating hyaluronic acid and aloe melts
into skin like a moisturizer and hydrates the
entire time you’re wearing it. Available in a
variety of shades. ($29)
Fenty Beauty Diamond Bomb
All Over Diamond Veil in
Cognac Candy
Get the perfect goddess summer glow
with this new gold highlighter from Fenty
Beauty. Dust this shimmer on cheek bones,
use it as an eyeshadow, or however you’d
like. You’ll shine bright no matter what.
($39)
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Costa Rica Top - Key Lime Rib
by Monday Swimwear. $84
FASHION
Bahamas One Piece
Long - Sky Blue Rib by
Monday Swimwear. $169
4
6
The Sidestroke
by Summersalt. $95
Wide Strap Plunge Bikini
Top by Aerie. $17.47
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7
3
Black Rainbow Stripe
High Waist Swim Bottom
by Torrid. $44.50
Print Triangle Bikini Top
by GAP. $49.95
Swimsuits
High Leg Mid Rise Bikini
Bottom by Summersalt. $45
5
Harbor Bikini Top by The
Reformation. $68.00
Wrap Halter Bikini Top
by American Eagle. $17.47
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Out From Under Crossover
One-Piece Swimsuit by
Urban Outfitters. $69
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Summer
Trends Summer
Trends
Saskia Teje @saskiateje
Your new go-to mini dress is
here! Breathable and functional
for those fun summer days.
Verge Girl. $60
FASHION
Chriselle Lim @chrisellelim
A puff-sleeve white blouse is a summer
must-have, with khaki trousers and
sneakers, jeans, or even cutoff shorts.
We call it the LWT (little white top).
Khaite Kai top, $42
Grece Ghanem @greceghanem
We’re all about matching sets this
summer! Grece rocks an all plaid
look with cream heels that are
perfect for any occasion.
COS. $75
Whitney @curvegenius
Wearing the breezy,
tropical pattern with an offthe-shoulder
top and long,
flowy pant. Grab the “One
Summer” set by Miss Lola.
$56
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15

CULTURE
From Excuses to Excursions
by Gloria Atanmo
1
Education, entertainment, and
empowerment about how a girl
took her excuses and turned them
into excursions to start traveling the
world. There’s a world of knowledge
out there in subjects that can’t be
taught in a classroom that ultimately shape the
better part of our existence. Gloria was willing to
do whatever it took to get an A in that curriculum.
101 Essays That Will Change
The Way You Think
by Brianna Wiest
2
Over the past few years, Brianna
Wiest has gained renown for her
deeply moving, philosophical
writing. This new compilation of her published
work features pieces on why you should pursue
purpose over passion, embrace negative
thinking, see the wisdom in daily routine, and
become aware of the cognitive biases that are
creating the way you see your life. Some of these
pieces have never been seen; others have been
read by millions of people around the world.
Regardless, each will leave you thinking: this idea
changed my life.
3
Becoming
by Michelle Obama
In her memoir, a work of deep
reflection and mesmerizing
storytelling, former First Lady
Michelle Obama invites readers into her world,
chronicling the experiences that have shaped
her—from her childhood on the South Side of
Chicago to her years as an executive balancing
the demands of motherhood and work, to her
time spent at the world’s most famous address.
With unerring honesty and lively wit, she
describes her triumphs and her disappointments,
both public and private, telling her full story
as she has lived it—in her own words and on
her own terms. Warm, wise, and revelatory,
Becoming is the deeply personal reckoning of a
woman of soul and substance who has steadily
defied expectations—and whose story inspires us
to do the same.
This Is How it Always Is
4
by Laurie Frankel
This novel is about a family with
five boys in which the youngest
feels he’s something entirely
different — a girl. This story is close to the author’s
heart because she’s living it: Her own child was
born a boy and now identifies as a girl.
5
Where the Crawdads Sing
by Delia Owens
For years, rumors of the ‘Marsh
Girl’ have haunted Barkley
Cove, a quiet town on the North
Carolina coast. So in late 1969, when handsome
Chase Andrews is found dead, the locals
immediately suspect Kya Clark, the so-called
Marsh Girl. But Kya is not what they say. Sensitive
and intelligent, she has survived for years alone
in the marsh that she calls home, finding friends
in the gulls and lessons in the sand. Then the
time comes when she yearns to be touched and
loved. When two young men from town become
intrigued by her wild beauty, Kya opens herself to
a new life - until the unthinkable happens.
Educated
by Tara Westover
Tara Westover was seventeen
6
when she first set foot in a
classroom. Instead of traditional
lessons, she grew up learning
how to stew herbs into medicine,
scavenging in the family scrap yard and helping
her family prepare for the apocalypse. She had
no birth certificate and no medical records and
had never been enrolled in school. This is Tara’s
autobiography as she bares all.
Summer READS
Finally the fourth season of Insecure has arrived.
Creator Issa Rae (The Misadventures of Awkward
Black Girl) stars as Issa Dee, who struggles to
navigate the tricky professional and personal
terrain of Los Angeles along with her best friend
Molly (Yvonne Orji). Modern-day black women
might be described as strong and confident;
in other words, just the opposite of Issa and
Molly. As the best friends deal with their own
real-life flaws, their insecurities come to the fore
as together they cope with an endless series of
uncomfortable everyday experiences. And boy,
is this relatable.
Netflix’s Sex Education is — at its most
basic level — a coming-of-age story about
the challenges of exploring sex and
sexuality. With its raunchy and sometimes
cringeworthy opening scenes of failed
attempts at sex and nuanced relationships,
Sex Education offers a hilarious and
sometimes deeply moving view of
adolescence. Otis Milburn (Asa Butterfield),
the son of a sex therapist — Jean Milburn
(Gillian Anderson) finds his talents in acting
as a sex therapist for the students at his
school. Although Otis’s escapades and love
story are obviously central to the storyline,
season two of Sex Education does more
than simply move along the plot. Instead, it
attempts to reach beyond a coming-of-age
tale, and instead attempts to achieve its
literal goal — to teach its viewers about sex.
Binge
Watch
Our top binge-worthy TV shows
16 • Dahlia.com
This Netflix miniseries is adapted from Deborah
Feldman’s 2012 memoir Unorthodox: The
Scandalous Rejection of My Hasidic Roots.
Feldman was raised in the Satmar sect of
Williamsburg and escaped an arranged
marriage at age 19 while pregnant with her
first child, eventually resettling in Germany.
The scenes of Unorthodox that take place in
Williamsburg are mostly performed in Yiddish,
and the insights into the Satmar community is
fascinating. The main character is Esty Shapiro
(played by Shira Haas). Her life in Berlin is an
interesting contrast to the rigid parameters of
her life in Williamsburg. For Esty, as presumably
for Feldman, Berlin represents a chance at a
new life – and freedom.
Our favorite sci-fi/utopian/drama series,
Westworld, is back for a third season.
Westworld isn’t your typical amusement park.
Intended for rich vacationers, the futuristic park
— which is looked after by robotic “hosts”—
allows its visitors to live out their fantasies
through artificial consciousness. No matter
how crazy the fantasy may be, there are no
consequences for the park’s guests, allowing
for any wish to be indulged. Follow the dawn
of artificial consciousness in this dark tale that
begins in a world where every human appetite
can be indulged. This latest season explores
questions about the nature of our reality, free
will and what makes us human.
17

If
Jorja Smith isn’t on your radar right
now, you might want to rectify that.
And it won’t take long to realise
what the fuss is about. Smith is
often name-checked with Sade, Alicia
Keys and Adele , and it’s true that her vocals,
smoky yet somehow soothing, have a richness
and complexity that comes along rarely.
Introducing her at a show in Toronto in 2017, the
Canadian rapper Drake described her as: “One
of the most incredible voices, incredible talents
and incredible humans I’ve ever met.” Such
attention could, and should, be head-spinning.
Did we mention she’s only 21?
Smith’s mother, Jolene, a jewelry designer, was
the first to notice that she might have a special
voice. “When I was eight I sang at church in
front of everyone,” Smith recalls. “My mum
used to make me sing, tell people I could sing
and I hated that. I was so embarrassed!”
Eventually Jorja left Walsall for south London,
where she lived with relatives and took a job
in Starbucks. All the while, Smith was writing,
putting out tracks on Soundcloud, and it
was one of these – Where Did I Go? – that
found its way to Drake. He made contact on
Instagram, said the song had kept him sane
on a long flight, and asked her to do a duet on
a song called Get It Together. Smith, scarcely
believably, said no, because in her words: “I
didn’t write it, I didn’t know what I was talking
about.” But she changed her mind a
year later and the track appeared on
his ubiquitous 2017 mixtape More Life.
Before the release of Lost & Found,
Smith was mainly known for such
collaborations: with Drake, and on the
Kali Uchis track Tyrant, and on Kendrick
Lamar’s soundtrack for the Black Panther
movie; she also shared vocals with Stormzy
on a song of her own, Let Me Down. “It was
never part of my plan to work with Kendrick
or Drake or Kali, but they just added to
everything,” says Smith now. “Because then I
got opened up to a whole new Drake world,
a whole new Kendrick world and a Kali world.
So I got new fans from it and maybe they were
waiting for me to put a project out and then
they liked that, hopefully.”
“It was never part of my plan
to work with Kendrick or
Drake or Kali, but they just
added to everything.”
Smith’s success is all the more astonishing for
the detail that she isn’t backed by a major label.
There’s a simple reason for that: she doesn’t
much like being told what to do. There’s a
simple reason for that: she doesn’t much like
being told what to do. That clear-headedness
could be seen at the Observer’s photo shoot.
“If I don’t like something, I won’t wear it,” says
Smith, who has now changed into her travelling
outfit of a Mondrian-ish Nike tracksuit. She
giggles: “I have a lot of control, yeah.”
This is Smith’s life now. So busy, so in demand
that work expands into almost every small
fissure of the day. Her only downtime is when
she’s sleeping or running 5k at the gym. That’s
fame, I suggest. “Don’t want to be famous,”
Smith shoots back. “I’m not famous. People”
– she pauses, picks her words – “know about
me. No, do you know what? I don’t have
goals or bucket lists because I don’t like being
disappointed. But famous? Famous is like
Rihanna. I’m not Rihanna. I’ve got a lot of work
to do. I’d like to be successful. That’s what I’d
like. And happy.” As for what’s next, Smith just
wants to get back to writing. “Or else I’ll never
put out another album. And this year I will write
more stuff.”
And oh, horse riding. For her next video, which
Smith plans to direct herself, she wants to
gallop on a horse, bareback. There are only two
problems here: one, that is really difficult; and
two, Smith has next to no experience on horses.
But, as ever, she is unfazed. “I’ve only told you
that,” she says, opening the car door, “so let’s
see if it happens.”
--AG
18 • Dahlia.com
19

However, the beauty mogul is quick to enforce
Glossier’s success did not happen overnight - though
it may seem that way. “We face a very similar frontier,
which is, ‘Is anyone going to buy beauty products
online?’ I mean, that’s what every venture capitalist
asked me when I was raising our seed round – and
the answer seems to be yes.” So, what’s next for one
of the fastest growing beauty brands on the planet?
“Someone asked us if we could make Milky Jelly lube.
And I was like, that’s actually a really good idea...they
want things we had never considered that we should
even have any business making”.
Glossier might appear to be at an all-time high but
Emily is only just getting started. Keep reading for our
Q & A with girlboss Emily!
by Elise Garcia
In civilian terms, how would you describe your job?
I’m the Founder and CEO of Glossier. What that title means
changes from day to day, but I essentially work with the
areas of the business that need my support and input
most. One day that could be approving selects from a new
campaign, the next I could be working closely with our COO
discussing plans for our next fundraiser. But aside from that
day to day, my role is really to picture the future for Glossier
and make sure the team is on track to get us there.
What part of your job would
people find most surprising?
I’m rarely sitting down. I prefer to be
running around. Even when I have
rare non-scheduled time, I like to
grab coffee with someone to
see how they’re doing or pop
in on a project our creative
or marketing teams are
working on. I don’t ‘desk
time.’
Glossier.
What are the five top qualities you look for when hiring?
I look for hunger—a drive to prove something. Whether that’s to
yourself, your mom, your second-grade teacher. I like to uncover
what motivates people and make sure that’s in line with what
motivates people here—encouraging women to take ownership
of their beauty routines and be the authors of their own lives. I’ve
never worked anywhere where the team is as passionate about the
product as they are here. I also appreciate a no-BS attitude, but you
have to be a nice person. A good person.
What’s the best advice you’ve ever received?
I read this, so I suppose it wasn’t given to me, but
my best piece of advice is: Know what you
don’t know. Surround yourself with people
who are smarter than you are in different
areas and learn from them. There’s no
need to ever pretend like you know
it all. When you do that, it can often
come back to bite you. I’ve learned
that the hard way.
Ask any millennial their go-to beauty brand and they’ll most likely
say Glossier. From cult products like Boy Brow (one sells every
32 seconds) to the brand’s high-quality skincare, Glossier has
become famed worldwide for its affordable, effective products
- not to mention its delicious packaging and highly ‘grammable pop-up
stores. Now the brand’s founder and CEO, Emily Weiss, has opened up
about how she created a $1.2 billion cosmetic phenomenon and her
ambitious plans for the company’s future.
Emily pinpointed the eureka moment that led to the birth of Glossier. “I
looked at 20 beauty brands, thinking about whether or not I would buy
that sweatshirt, wear that sweatshirt… I just kept coming up with ‘no’”
she stated. “We’re in an era where people want to choose who they
listen to. People are predominantly looking to peer-to-peer connection
and community to make beauty purchasing decisions.” Unlike traditional
beauty brands that come at a high cost, Emily was keen to decouple
the notion that price meant quality. “Just because something’s more
expensive doesn’t mean that it’s necessarily better.”
What did you wear to
your first job interview?
Oh god. I don’t remember.
What job?! How about
what I’d wear now. If I went
to an interview now, I’d wear
some kind of head-to-toe
monochrome situation (the easiest
way to look chic) and have insanely
glowy, dewy skin. I’d smell like Le Labo
Musc.
Who would you like to have a 30-minute meeting
with?
The late, great Steve Jobs.
What do you do when you’re
feeling uninspired?
Travel. Usually, when I’m feeling out
of it, I just need to get outside of my
comfort zone—to explore someplace
that operates and relates to the world in a
different way. It’s incredibly inspiring, for me,
simply to have a conversation and learn about
someone else, somewhere else, in real life, not
on the internet. Everything comes back to people and
human emotion. Everyone’s just doing their best.
How would your assistant describe you?
Driven.
What are your go-to resources for keeping up to date
What are you working on right now that you’re most excited
on your industry?
about?
Instagram. That and our office Slack. My team shares all the
I am excited about so many things for Glossier. Most of them I
latest news faster than I could ever find it. They keep me
don’t want to say for fear of jinxing them, but generally, I am just so
fresh and inspired.
thrilled to watch our community grow and see how they live with our
20 • Dahlia.com
products.
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