British Travel Journal | Spring 2021

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

explore the british isles 

SPRING 2021 | ISSUE 08 

BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM 

WANDERLUST 

DESTINATIONS 

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ATTRACTIONS 

TO VISIT AFTER 

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C O N T R I B U T I O N S 

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

BritishTravelJournal.com 

EDITORS 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way 

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford 

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding 

CONTRIBUTORS 

Melanie Abrams, Chantal Borciani, 

Helen Holmes, Emma Johnson, 

Adrian Mourby, Karyn Noble, Emma O’Reilly, 

Lydia Paleschi, Adrienne Wyper 

COVER PHOTO 

— 

Our Editor arrives on the sandy shores of 

Bryher, one of the smaller of the inhabited 

islands of the Isles of Scilly. See p72. 

Published by 

CONTISTA MEDIA 

Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, 

Southampton, SO31 9HP 

01489 660680 

contistamedia.co.uk 

Contista Media Ltd cannot accept responsibility for 

unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs. 

While every care is taken prices and details are subject to 

change and Contista Media Ltd take no responsibility for 

omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish 

and edit any letters. All rights reserved. 

@BritishTravelJournal 

@BTravelJournal 

@BritishTravelJournal 

Welcome 

EDITOR’S LETTER 

— 

A 

H, THE SWEET SMELL of spring is finally 

here. Flowers are beginning to bloom, the sun 

has started to shine and there is hope on the 

horizon for a great British summer! 

I’m sure you’ll agree that spending so many months at 

home has only made our adventurous, curious hearts grow 

fonder with a passion for travel and exploration. 

I will appreciate my upcoming travel trips so much more, 

and it has only made my job as travel Editor, and the content in 

our latest issue, seem even more special than usual! 

Lockdown might have put a stop to many things, but 

it certainly hasn’t stopped the travel industry preparing to 

ensure a super fun and warm welcome once it is safe for 

visitors to return. 

From new hotels and luxury spas (p10), exciting holiday 

resorts full of adventure and off-grid activities (p16), luxury 

boutique stays in acres of unspoilt countryside and coastline 

(p90), brand new attractions (p18) to immersive one-of-a-kind 

experiences (p22) – it seems there has perhaps never been a 

better time to explore the British Isles! 

With so much ‘British staycation’ wanderlust flying about 

we couldn’t resist compiling our Ultimate British Bucket List 

(p28). Deep in the West Dorset countryside we Meet the Makers 

behind the world’s only vodka made from cows’ milk (p44). 

We uncover 10 of the most wonderful places to visit in Yorkshire 

(p62) and discover that there’s much more than just Cheddar 

Cheese and ancient apple orchards to Somerset’s epicurean 

offering in The Rise of Food and Drink (p84). In search of 

beautiful destinations where social distancing is made easy, 

you won’t find better than a remote Sea Garden Cottage on 

the white sandy shores of Tresco island (p72), a luxury family 

stay in the heart of Suffolk’s rolling countryside at The Ickworth 

(p50) or a whisky tour around the southernmost island of the 

Inner Hebrides of Scotland, Islay - the Lord of the Isles (p56). 

Wherever, and whenever, you next plan to take a holiday 

in the British Isles, we hope British Travel Journal continues to 

deliver as your indispensable travel magazine, and wish you a 

safe and seamless journey full of wonderful memories. 

Jessica x 

JESSICA WAY 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 

– 

BritishTravelJournal.com 3

Time for the 

little things 

luxuryfamilyhotels.co.uk

CONTENTS 

SPRING 2021 | ISSUE 08 

— 

09 

28 

28 

90 

JOTTINGS 

09 

TRAVEL NEWS 

From a former jail turned sumptuous 

hotel, luxury spa resort openings, to new 

attractions including the launch of RHS 

Bridgewater and re-imagined Nottingham Castle. 

MAGICAL MOMENTS 

24 Feel inspired and escape the everyday 

with these stunning travel photos of beautiful 

landscapes from around the British Isles. 

CULTURAL AGENDA 

39 Unmissable events, shows and 

exhibitions for your social calendar this spring 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

98 Latest travel essentials and crossword. 

FEATURES 

28 

ULTIMATE BRITISH BUCKETLIST 

From taking a classic Morgan car for 

a spin around part of the North Coast 500, to 

taking to the air and flying an iconic 1943 plane, 

and cruising around the UK in the world’s largest 

square-rigged luxury sailing vessel. 

BLACK COW VODKA 

44 We discover the world’s only vodka 

made from cows’ milk deep in the West Dorset 

countryside. 

TEN OF THE BEST LUXURY 

90 BOUTIQUE STAYS 

Fancy hunkering down for the night in front 

of a burning log fire in a cute, cosy cottage or 

luxurious accommodation nestled in the middle 

of acres of beautiful countryside, a quaint village 

or coastal clifftop? 

à 


62 

E D I T O R L O V E S DESTINATIONS 

These stylish limited edition 

weatherproof backpacks, 

handmade to order from The Level 

Collective as part of an ethical 

British-made craftsmanship 

collaboration. Together with Blok 

Knives founder Ben Edmonds, 

(the Aston Martin of the cutting 

world), who is crafting 100 

outdoor knives handmade in 

Derbyshire, Cornish based 

creative Mark Musgrave has 

designed 100 British-made stylish 

organic backpacks. Limited edition 

backpacks £375. 

Limited edition Blok Knives £155. 

thelevelcollective.com 

THE ICKWORTH 

50 Spending quality family time 

together in acres of glorious British 

countryside just doesn’t get better than at 

this sumptuous Suffolk retreat. 

TOP TEN PLACES TO VISIT IN 

62 YORKSHIRE 

From walks through National Parks, beautiful 

historic cities, luxury hotels to charming 

seaside resorts, there’s plenty to discover on 

a tour of Britain’s largest county. 

48 HOURS IN TRESCO AND 

72 BRYHER 

Spend your days exploring ruined castles, 

discovering tales of shipwrecks, and enjoying 

the sounds of the ocean on Britain's very own 

Island treasure. 

72 

50 

FOOD AND DRINK 

56 

LORD OF THE ISLES 

Join us on a whisky tasting tour 

around Scotland's isle of Islay, one of the 

premiere whisky-producing areas in the 

world. 

THE RISE OF SOMERSET'S 

84 FOOD AND DRINK 

This English county is not merely the 

home of Cheddar Cheese or ancient apple 

orchards, Somerset’s epicurean delights are 

in abundance. 

HOTEL 

GIFT CARD 

WORTH 

£25! 

Subscription Offer 

Subscribe to three issues of British Travel 

Journal for just £20 and receive a £25 gift of 

a lifetime with Roomcard, the personalised 

digital gift card for the world's most 

inspirational hotels, while stocks last. 

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Magazine-Subscription.cfm 

6 BritishTravelJournal.com

Crossbrook Farm, Worcestershire 

Find your special place 

From luxury contemporary barn conversions to charming thatched cottages, 

we’ve hand-picked the very best to bring you holiday memories to treasure. 

A portfolio of over 

550 luxury, self-catering 

holiday properties 

in the UK and Ireland. 

View the properties 

ruralretreats.co.uk 

Call for our brochure 

01386 897 959

Fly direct with 

Penzance Helicopters 

Time to be... 

Soul-reviving spa soaks and subtropical garden strolls. 

Great times in the great outdoors and long, lazy lunches. 

Deserted sandy bays and towering heather-clad cliffs. 

Island-hopping adventures and spellbinding sunset suppers. 

Whatever the season, rediscover time to be on Tresco, the family 

owned island at the heart of the Isles of Scilly archipelago. 

Just 28 miles from Cornwall. Somewhere else altogether. 

TRESCO.CO.UK 

SPA & WELLNESS | ACCOMMODATION | ABBEY GARDEN | DINING | GALLERY

LOOKING AHEAD... 

TRAVEL NEWS 

Once lockdown lifts and it is safe to visit, reignite your passion for 

travel with our selection of what's new across the British Isles 

HOTELS 

RESORTS 

ATTRACTIONS 

from page 10 from page 16 

from page 18 


New hotels 

BATH 

The Townhouse 

For the ultimate city break you would 

be hard pushed to find a better place 

to stay than the new Townhouse at the 

Gainsborough Bath Spa Hotel. The TV 

series Bridgerton had us swooning over the 

ravishing city of Bath, used as a location, 

and now there’s this. Offering the best of 

both worlds – ultra luxurious self-catering 

for up to five people, plus the hotel next 

door for dining out or using the spa. The 

real wow factor facility here, however, is 

private access to the Cross Bath. This sacred 

open-air bath taps in to the city’s thermal 

waters and beats a hot tub any day! 

Prices start from £183 per night. ◆ 

thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk 

DERBYSHIRE 

ENSANA BUXTON CRESCENT HOTEL & THERMAL SPA 

Buxton Crescent 

In need of some pampering in the elegant surroundings of one 

of England’s finest Georgian buildings? It feels as though we’ve 

been anticipating the opening of this 80-bedroom five-star 

hotel and visitor attraction for years now – and that’s probably 

because we have! Originally the launch was scheduled for 2019, 

and with the pandemic forcing closures throughout last year 

it has all just taken longer than planned. However, by no small 

feat, the impressive £50m redevelopment and restoration of the 

magnificent building completed last summer and opened, under 

Covid-19 restrictions, on 1st October 2020. The luxury hotel 

offers accommodation with all the trimmings - as well as the 

thermal natural mineral water spa in the Natural Baths there’s 

the splendid 18th Century ballroom – known as the Assembly 

Room – which has also been fully refurbished, café, restaurant, 

two bars and six prestigious retail premises along the front 

ground floor façade. Choose from a selection of all day spa packages 

and soak in the thermal pool, to include use of all facilities, robe 

and slippers, lunch, therapy treatments, Jet Bath, Salt Cave and 

much more. Have something to celebrate? You might prefer 

the Twilight spa evening with a glass of fizz on arrival, Ensana 

wellness treatment and evening meal. Prices from £125 per night. ◆ 

ensanahotels.com/buxton/en 


BERKSHIRE 

Fairmont Windsor Park 

Destined to be the UK’s leading wellness retreat comprising a 

sprawling world-class spa spanning 2,500 square metres with 

indoor and outdoor pools, 18 treatments rooms, a salt room, 

Hamman and Japanese foot spa. fairmont-windsorpark.com 

BRISTOL 

Artist Residence 

Arty micro chain Artist Residence is set to 

open its fifth hotel in a former boot factory 

in Bristol’s Portland Square. An eclectic 

mix of art and vintage, the new venue 

includes 28 quirky bedrooms alongside 

a café, bar and events space. Your home 

from home in the heart of creative Bristol, 

with comfy beds, powerful rainfall showers 

and an eclectic mix of industrial, vintage 

and bohemian style. Book the bohemian 

Artist Suite – it features original Georgian 

cornicing, super king size bed, open 

bathroom with free-standing roll-top 

bathtub and powerful rainfall shower. ◆ 

artistresidence.co.uk/our-hotels/bristol 

Editor loves 

BELFAST 

The Harrison 

Looking to add a little more sass to your staycation? 

Having hosted scoundrels and scholars since 

1879, this bohemian bolthole has been designed 

for the culturally curious traveller located right 

in the heart of Belfast’s theatre and museum 

quarter. Book the Ruby Murray Room – it’s divine! 

Antique furniture, stunning four poster bed and 

stylish bathtub. Priced from £150 per night. ◆ 

chambersofdistinction.com 


In the capital 

STRATFORD 

The Gantry 

Launching a year later than originally planned, The Gantry 

will bring together, under one roof, a hotel, artisan food market, 

restaurants and cocktail bars, in what is London’s fastest 

developing creative and cultural community. Collaborating 

with local producers, artists, brands and independent 

London restaurateurs, The Gantry is a single urban resort 

offering a fully integrated eating, drinking, travel and social 

destination for East Londoners and international visitors 

alike. With a silhouette inspired by New York’s famous Flat 

Iron building, The Gantry’s design is influenced by industrial 

Victorian East London and Stratford’s historical role in the 

city’s train building industry. Situated on the 18th floor with 

floor to ceiling windows, The Gantry will also boast the 

highest rooftop bar in East London, offering a truly iconic 

sunset across the capital when the bar and outdoor terraces 

come alive with live music and DJs. 

Prices start from £173 per night. ◆ 

thegantrylondon.com 

MAYFAIR 

The Mayfair Townhouse 

Bridging the gap between West End’s ritzy and corporate hotels, 

the Townhouse redefines what it means to be a London 

hotel. Curious, engaging, witty – and dandy. Think: Oscar 

Wilde meets Alice in Wonderland. Launched by the people 

who brought you Cliveden House and Chewton Glen, The 

Mayfair Townhouse occupies the Grade-II listed Georgian 

buildings that line Half Moon Street – once the setting for 

Oscar Wilde’s most famous play, The Importance of Being 

Earnest. The aptly named Dandy Bar is the heart and soul of 

the Townhouse; a theatrical, dimly lit atmosphere that 

creates a place to see and be seen. Say hello to Head Concierge 

Dianna Beran, formerly from Belmond Cadogan Hotel, and 

one of the very few female concierges in the world to hold 

the title of Les Clefs d’Or! Book a mixology experience with 

Pierpaolo Monaco and enjoy a Mayfair Dandy – an avant-garde 

take on the classic Dandy cocktail once enjoyed by hedonists 

of the area. Room rates priced from £252 per night. ◆ 

themayfairtownhouse.com 

LEICESTER SQUARE 

The Londoner 

More ‘urban resort’ than ‘city hotel’ spanning across 

16 storeys, The Londoner features a whopping 

350 guest rooms, suites and tower penthouse with 

panoramic views! Yet there’s more to this sophisticated 

Leicester Square playground - an expansive ballroom, 

wellness centre, hair and nail salon, barber shop, a 

mix of eateries and roof top bar with firepits. Prices 

from £469 per person, per night. ◆ 

thelondoner.com 


GREAT GIFT IDEAS 

BEST GIFT FOR 

MOTHER’S DAY? 

Mother’s Day is on Sunday 14th March 

Have you been missing your mum during lockdown? 

With Mother’s Day fast approaching, and the opportunity 

to take your mum out looking unlikely, why not 

give her something special to look forward to? Give her the 

gift of roomcard and she can start planning a weekend for 

when lockdown lifts – and if you’re lucky, she’ll take you too! 

roomcard is the digital gift card and wallet for the 

world’s 10,000 most inspirational hotels, covering the very best 

of Britain and beyond. roomcard allows you to add your 

own customised wrapping and personal greeting – whether 

you prefer a video, photo gallery, spoken or written message. 

Schedule the delivery of roomcard at precisely your chosen 

time… and then, right on cue, it will be delivered straight 

to your mum’s phone. Roomcard.com 

TM

1334 

INNOVATIVE | UNIQUE | EXCLUSIVE 

Putting the British into British tea 

for the first time in history. 

Tregothnan has pioneered botanical firsts since 1334, 

experimenting with new plants like the tea genus for over two 

centuries. We finally perfected the first ever tea production in the 

UK in 2005. Today we continue to innovate inspired by our precious 

plants and gardens. 

www.tregothnan.co.uk /tregothnan @tregothnan @tregothnan

Boutique hotels 

EAST SUSSEX 

The Star Inn 

The third in Olga’s Polizzi Collection, spreading her wings 

from the south west to the south east, and her first official 

joint venture with her daughter, Alex Polizzi, presenter of 

Channel 5’s, The Hotel Inspector. thepolizzicollection.com 

NORFOLK 

The Harper 

The Harper is a brand new 32-bedroom 

boutique hotel taking residence within 

Langham’s famed old glass blowing factory, 

the rugged, chic interiors are light, airy 

and dotted with locally-crafted artisanal 

glass features playing quiet homage to 

its heritage. Only a short drive from the 

picturesque coastal haven of Blakeney, 

The Harper nestles in the quaint and 

typically British village of Langham, North 

Norfolk and even boasts its own Harper 

Hikes walking routes. Rooms (inc Harper 

Breakfast) start at £175 per night. ◆ 

theharper.co.uk 

WEST SUSSEX 

THE PIG in the South Downs 

With the latest launch of THE PIG in the South 

Downs becoming the eighth addition, you will now 

be able to stay in a PIG in every south coast county! 

Plus, the team is creating the group’s first vineyard 

here too - on the two-acre field directly in front of 

the main restaurant of the hotel previously used for 

grazing alpacas. Rooms from £155 per night. ◆ 

thepighotel.com 


New resorts 

CORNWALL 

Una St Ives 

One of the most exciting new launches in 

the active holiday resorts has to be this £25 

million development of a former caravan 

park above Carbis Bay. There are 30 

self-catering eco-houses and Una Kitchen 

already open, with a further 55-bedroom 

apartment hotel and around 100 villas 

and luxurious lodges opening soon. From 

clifftop ambles and wild sea swimming, to 

night-sky sessions around the fire pit. Join a 

morning yoga class, paddle out to surf on 

Porthminster Beach and head to St Ives Bay 

for sea-to-fork fresh fish. ◆ 

unastives.co.uk 

SNOWDONIA 

Adventure Parc, 

Hilton Garden Inn 

Launching in tandem with the brand new Wave Garden 

Spa, the Hilton Garden Inn Snowdonia, surrounded by 

mountains, forests, and beautiful natural landscape, 

makes a family holiday to Adventure Parc even more 

enticing than ever before. The 106-bedroom hotel is the 

perfect place to check in and enjoy the surf lagoon and 

parc activities, including an outdoor adventure climbing 

centre, zip lines and freefalls, gorge walking, mountain 

biking, water sports and more. The floor-to-ceiling 

windows in the stylish bedrooms and Zephyr’s bar and 

grill make the most of the unique backdrop, and offer big 

views across the lagoon, where you can enjoy watching 

surfers catch rolling waves. Home to some of the biggest 

peaks in Wales, as well as a population of wild ponies 

there will never be a dull moment to be had here – and 

when you need some space to relax, indulge in solitude 

at the adjoining Wave Garden Spa. Think warm vitality 

waterfall pool, an iconic oversized Himalayan salt sauna, 

outdoor hot whirlpool, relaxation pods and fire pits. ◆ 

adventureparcsnowdonia.com 


CORNWALL 

Harbour Beach Club, Salcombe 

50 spacious bedrooms and suites on the stunning South Sands 

beach. Think laid back vibes, hammocks between the trees, 

beanbags to chill out on with a mojito in hand to watch the 

sunset. Adventures from watersports to wild swimming. 

harbourhotels.co.uk/harbour-beach-club 

CORNWALL 

Three Mile Beach 

Fifteen new luxury self-catering beach houses 

opening this Easter, tucked away on Gwithian 

Towans, an unspoilt part of the stunning 

Cornish coastline, with never-ending Atlantic 

Ocean views – this is a surfer’s paradise. From 

bodyboarding, stand-up-paddle, kitesurfing 

to surfing, you will not only master your skills 

on the water, you will also enjoy going off-grid, 

hunkering down and switching off from the 

everyday world. This is tranquillity at its very 

best, with three miles of stunning beach and 

views over Godrevy lighthouse and the lights 

of St Ives. Each beach house has its own private 

deck, sunken hot tub, and barrel sauna. ◆ 

threemilebeach.co.uk 

You might also enjoy 

KENT 

Leopard Creek 

Following the successful launch of the soughtafter 

Lion and Tiger Lodges, Port Lympne 

Hotel & Reserve are opening their next big cat 

accommodation, Leopard Creek this April. Choose 

from a cosy cub hut, stylish family cabin, to luxurious 

four-person wigwam. Prices to stay in Leopard 

Creek’s wigwams from £699 a night. ◆ 

aspinallfoundation.org 


New attractions 

BATH 

Mary Shelley's House 

of Frankenstein 

Mary Shelley’s House of Frankenstein is a 

new visitor attraction in Bath, and a world 

first as the only horror experience dedicated 

to author Mary Shelley and her most 

infamous creation, Frankenstein! Mary 

Shelley wrote the majority of this timeless 

classic whilst living in lodgings situated 

in Abbey Churchyard in 1816, where you 

will now find the iconic Pump Room (next 

to The Roman Baths). The experience 

promises to be scarily atmospheric, multisensory 

and fully immersive. ◆ 

houseoffrankenstein.com 

MANCHESTER 

©RHS/MARKWAUGH/HARRIS BUGG STUDIO 

RHS Bridgewater 

Europe’s largest gardening project springs into life 

this May with RHS’s latest green oasis attraction. 

RHS Garden Bridgewater is a new spectacular 154-acre 

garden, offering a tranquil escape in the transformed 

historic grounds of Worsley New Hall, Salford. This 

beautiful green space is set to join the prestigious 

RHS’s portfolio as its fifth garden and the first new 

addition in 17 years. This will be the largest gardening 

project in Europe and will include a kitchen garden, 

heritage orchard, therapeutic garden and a historic 

11-acre walled garden – one of the largest in the UK 

for visitors to enjoy all year-round. Though the Worsley 

New Hall mansion no longer remains, echoes of the 

original gardens, ice-house, lake and formal terraces, 

can still be seen. Other highlights include The Paradise 

Garden - a spectacular blend of Mediterranean and 

Asiatic planting inspired by the earliest gardens, Middle 

Wood, 30-acres of forest glades, pools and ponds and 

The Chinese Streamside Garden, a unique, Chineseinspired 

garden representing an exciting and unique 

fusion of Chinese and British horticulture. ◆ 

rhs.org.uk 


NOTTINGHAM 

Nottingham Castle 

Following a multi-million-pound investment, Nottingham Castle 

and its sprawling caves below are anticipating an exciting 

relaunch. Once lockdown lifts you will be able to step into the 

story of the epic retelling of Robin Hood, rebellion and creativity. 

nottinghamcastle.org.uk 

DERBY 

Museum of Making 

On the site of the world’s first factory (The 

Derby Silk Mill) the Museum of Making is an 

impressive 5-year, £18million project funded 

by The National Lottery Heritage Fund – now 

ready to open. Located in the Derwent Valley 

Mills UNESCO World Heritage Site, one 

of the key sites of the industrial revolution, 

this brand-new museum will showcase the 

region’s 300-year history of making and 

celebrate its rich history of innovation. From 

the world’s smallest engine, run using a human 

hair, to a seven tonne Rolls-Royce Trent 1000 

engine suspended in a new atrium above visitors’ 

heads, there will be 30,000 objects to enjoy. ◆ 

derbymuseums.org 

LAKE DISTRICT 

Wordsworth Grasmere 

Poetry fans will be delighted to hear the news of this 

re-imagined museum celebrating William Wordsworth 

in the Lake District. The former Wordsworth Museum 

has been completely transformed to include a 

reinterpretation of Dove Cottage, where William lived 

when he produced most of his greatest and bestloved 

poems, a Sensory Garden and Woodland. ◆ 

wordsworth.org.uk 


mg.co.uk 

Pre-book tickets now 

Part of 

Royal Museums 

Greenwich 

Explore Greenwich and 

step on board an icon 

Visit Cutty Sark and experience the dramatic 

history of the fastest ship of its time. 

Greenwich Pier 

Cutty Sark 

Greenwich (only 8 mins from London Bridge)

CORNWALL 

Bodmin Jail 

After almost 100 years of ruin new life has been injected into this 

neglected relic to create a brand new £8.5million immersive visitor 

experience and hotel. Stay in a luxury bedroom converted from three 

jail cells or head to the cocktail bar, the former Governor’s Office. 

bodminjail.org and bodminjailhotel.com 

PLYMOUTH 

The Box 

The south-west coast’s brand new cultural 

hub, The Box is showing a commemorative 

exhibition this spring marking 400 years 

since the Pilgrims made their maiden voyage 

to America, titled Mayflower 400: Legend and 

Legacy. The 12 new exhibitions will showcase 

300 illuminating objects until 18 September 

2021. There is also an outdoor Mayflower 

Trail for visitors wanting to see key locations 

in the city first-hand. The Box is an impressive 

£40 million glass panelled museum space 

redeveloped from the Plymouth Museum and 

Art Gallery and Central Library, which opened 

for the first time to visitors last summer. ◆ 

theboxplymouth.com 

Adventurers will love 

PEMBROKESHIRE 

Llys-y-Frân Lake 

This brand-new 350 acre Outdoor Activity Centre is 

to launch as a Welsh Water adventure attracting over 100,000 

visitors a year, following a £4 million investment. There are 

over 14km of trails to explore, while on the water visitors can 

enjoy sailing, kayaking, fishing, canoeing and stand-uppaddleboarding. 

There will be a café, cycle hire as well as 

lessons in axe and knife throwing, crossbow and archery. ◆ 

llys-y-fran.co.uk 


New experiences 

CORNWALL 

The Nare 

New to The Nare Hotel, Cornwall is a 

themed walking and art break overlooking 

Carne beach. Four days to draw inspiration 

from the stunning sea views and coastal 

scenery of the Roseland Peninsula, an Area 

of Outstanding Natural Beauty. With plenty 

of sea air and hands-on creative tuition 

unlock your newfound artistic flair and take 

a personally hand-painted canvas home 

forever to remind you of your holiday. 

The hotel is also about to unveil four of the 

largest sea-view hotel suites in Britain, 

The Whittington Suites. ◆ 

narehotel.co.uk 

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE 

Nomadic Dining 

Escape to the Chiltern Hills and join Nomadic Dining for a 

woodland foraging feast inspired by the wild ingredients. 

Immerse yourself into the magical experience of living off the 

land, cooking on an open flame with menus curated by the 

fruits and finds of your forest forage. Enjoy lunch or dinner 

experiences, woodland cocktails, hand-picked herbal teas 

and toasted marshmallows. Priced from £99 per person. ◆ 

experiencenomadic.com/woodlandfeasts/ 

GLOUCESTERSHIRE 

Tudor Farmhouse 

In the Forest of Dean, take a foraging break with a fungi 

expert forager at Tudor Farmhouse and spend hours off the 

beaten track discovering delicious ingredients, whilst enjoying 

fresh air and beautiful countryside. Having returned to the 

Farmhouse with your basket full of edible delights you’ll be 

greeted by a comforting lunch using the best of seasonal and 

foraged produce. Prices from £195 per night. ◆ 

tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk/foraging-trips 


KENT 

Hangloose Bluewater 

If you are looking for a way to let off some adrenaline-fuelled 

steam then this brand new zipline could be just the ticket! England’s 

longest and fastest zipline, the biggest adventure centre in Europe, 

is landing at the much-loved Bluewater Shopping Centre. 

hangloosebluewater.com 

SOUTH DOWNS 

Hambledon 

Visitors will for the first time have the chance 

to enjoy some of the South Downs’ finest 

tipples at the Hambledon Vineyard’s new 

facilities. Located in 200 acres of lush 

countryside, the vineyard will welcome a 

brand-new tasting room and visitor centre, 

giving guests the chance to savour a range 

of delicious wines and discover behind-thescenes 

stories and techniques of one England’s 

finest wines. Hambledon comprises over 200 

acres of vineyards planted with Chardonnay, 

Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier – the three 

grape varieties most commonly used in the 

production of Champagne. ◆ 

hambledonvineyard.co.uk 

Editor loves 

SOUTH COAST 

England’s Creative Coast 

Stretching from the East Sussex Downs through 

to the Thames Estuary 1400km of stunning 

coastline is becoming a cultural treasure hunt 

brimming with seaside tales inspiring creativity 

through adventure. This is the world’s first art 

Geotour alongside ‘Waterfronts’. Launching at 

Turner Contemporary this May until November. ◆ 

englandscreativecoast.org 


Pretend like you’re on the Kingsroad in this 

avenue of ancient trees in County Antrim, 

Northern Ireland, which has featured in the TV 

show, Game of Thrones. Photo by Steve Allen 


MAGICAL 

MOMENTS 

Feel inspired and escape the everyday 

with these stunning travel photos 

Thinking about your first post-lockdown 

getaway? From stunning countryside views 

to city architecture, there are plenty of 

beauty spots across the UK just waiting to be 

discovered. 

To help inspire your next trip, this collection of British travel 

images have been taken by photographers in picture-perfect 

spots across the UK. The photos have been shortlisted as part 

of the 2021 edition of the CEWE Photo Award, the world’s 

largest photo competition, which aims to celebrate the best in 

photography across the globe. 

All the photos will be judged by a panel of five world 

famous photographers from across Europe, including Christie 

Goodwin, the official photographer for the Royal Albert Hall. 

Clare Moreton, photo expert at CEWE UK, commented: 

“Travel abroad may be restricted for the foreseeable future, 

but once the current lockdown is lifted, many of us will be 

choosing to embrace the beauty that the UK has to offer. 

There are so many stunning locations across Britain that are 

waiting to be discovered and the beautiful photos submitted 

to the CEWE Photo Award are a perfect example of the 

hidden gems on our doorstep.” ◆ 

à 


ç Why not escape your worries 

by taking a trip on the Hogwarts 

Express with a visit to the Glenfinnan 

Viaduct, Scotland, which featured in 

the Harry Potter film franchise. Photo 

by David Philip. 

ê Rydall Caves, located on the slopes 

of Loughrigg Fell, is a fantastic location 

for an afternoon of exploring. Photo 

taken by Jose Almada. 

The Yorkshire Dales is 

famed for its limestone 

landscapes, with crags 

and caves set amidst 

expansive heather 

moorland, rolling hills 

and dramatic waterfalls. 

This photo, taken from 

the top of Malham Cove 

is a perfect example of 

the stunning views on 

offer. Photo by Peter 

Watson. 


Richmond Park, in Surrey, is home 

to 630 Red and Fallow deer – a 

perfect place for nature lovers to 

do some wildlife spotting. Photo by 

Matteo Schirmer. 

ç Scotland has some of the most beautiful 

beaches in the UK and you might even be 

lucky enough to have one to yourself! 

Photo taken in Sandwood Bay beach by 

Jason Eddings. 

êSituated on an island where three sea 

lochs meet and surrounded by majestic 

scenery, Eilean Donan Castle is the 

perfect place to get away from it all. 

Photo by Richard Paksi. 

The narrow streets of Plymouth’s 

old town are a great place to spend an 

afternoon exploring. Photo by 

Farkasné Molnár Mária. 


10 OF THE BEST 

ULTIMATE 

BRITISH 

BUCKET LIST 

We have all been deprived of holidays, so the 

ADVERTISEMENT 

next one needs to be good! Get booking now 

with our ultimate wanderlust — destinations! 

NOT AVAILABLE IN THE PREVIEW 

Words | Emma O'Reilly 

FOR THE MOTOR ENTHUSIAST 

The Torridon: Location, location… This Victorian former 

hunting lodge in the Scottish Highlands certainly has it, 

sitting in 58 acres of parkland on the edge of a glittering sea 

loch, encircled by moutains. What’s inside isn’t bad either, 

with cosy lounges and bars and exquisite food to suit your 

mood – fine dining or casual. You won’t be short of things 

to do. The hotel can arrange adventures, such as taking a 

classic Morgan car for a spin around part of the North Coast 

500. It’s one of the most spectacular driving routes in the 

world, with sightseeing enroute, like Dunrobin Castle with its 

gardens inspired by Versailles, and the woodland waterfalls 

the Fairy Glen at Rosemarkie. Other options include munro 

baggings walks and stargazing with a qualified astronomer. 

The night skies here are truly magical. thetorridon.com 

British Travel Journal top tip End your day with a dram 

1of whisky or the hotel’s own-brand gin by the fire.

à

2 

FOR THE AVIATOR 

Goodwood: Goodwood is celebrated for its 

motor racing but this 12,000 acre sporting estate 

has much more to offer – including exciting flying 

experiences. These operate from Goodwood 

Aerodrome, used as a Battle of Britain station 

during World War II. During the Harvard Warbird 

Fly & Dining package, for example, you can take 

to the air in – and even have a go at flying - this 

iconic 1943 plane, once used for training Spitfire 

pilots. Afterwards, there’s a Champange lunch 

at The Kennels – former home to the Duke of 

Richmond’s hounds, now a rather smart estate 

members’ club. Or, for the really keen there’s 

Flying Through the Ages - a full day experiencing 

three different planes plus a behind-the-scenes 

tour of the aerodrome and meeting with the 

aviation teams. At the end of the day, retire to 

the Goodwood Hotel, with its restaurants, health 

club and two golf courses. goodwood.com 

British Travel Journal top tip For an extra 

special stay, book the exclusive use ten bedroom 

Hound Lodge, which has a private chef and butler. 

3 


4 

FOR THE COASTAL SCENERY LOVER 

Luxury Irish Tours: The Northern Irish coast 

encompasses some of Britain’s most interesting and 

wildly beautiful scenery. Let specialists organise 

a bespoke tour around the top sights, including 

a private driver in a luxury vehicle (or self drive if 

you prefer) plus accommodation in five star hotels 

or castles, private, behind-the-scenes tours, fine 

dining and, of course, visits to all the ‘blockbuster’ 

sights – the Glens of Antrim, Giant’s Causeway 

and Dunluce Castle to name but a few. 

luxuryirishtours.com 

British Travel Journal top tip Special interests can 

also be catered for – if you want to see every single 

Game of Thrones location, here, your wish is their 

command. Or play golf at the top courses, including 

the world famous Portrush…all is possible. 

FOR THE CRUISER 

Abercrombie & Kent: Not being allowed to visit 

even the next county has got us all gagging to 

get out and explore the UK. The Tradewind 

Voyage gives the chance to do that, on the 

Golden Horizon – the world’s largest squarerigged 

sailing vessel. The design is based on 

a traditional clipper ship, with wood panelled 

interiors alongside modern facilities - think 

three swimming pools and a spa! During the 

13 night trip, the many destinations to explore 

include Glenveagh National Park in Donegal, 

with its mountains and lakes, the exciting city of 

Liverpool, some of the tiny uninhabited islands 

in the Isles of Scilly, the lovely little Cornish town 

of St Ives and the Channel Islands of Jersey and 

Guernsey. abercrombiekent.co.uk 

British Travel Journal top tip Many of the 

optional excursions include cycling or walking. 

Take advantage to counteract the effects of 

the copious onboard food and wine. 

à 


5FOR 

THE ULTIMATE 

ADVENTURE 

WILDNIS: For a five-star wilderness 

experience with ex-British Army Majors 

in restored Land Rover Defenders, this 

new luxury adventure will take you on an 

unforgettable pioneering journey through 

the Scottish Highlands! Think packrafting, 

abseiling, climbing and open-fire feasts. 

From reaching the summit of Ben A’an, 

scrambling along Aonach Eagach 

ridgeline, two Munro summits, to a sea 

kayaking trip in Arisaig with sheltered 

sea lochs, countless isles and skerries and 

hidden beaches. Feeling brave? Then 

head to a remote quarry, and in the style 

of SAS: Who Dares Wins try a front abseil, 

descending cliff faces – you daredevil you! 

Every evening at basecamp you’ll be fed 

like Robert the Bruce, as Wildnis’ private 

chef, Tom Byrom rustles together whole 

grouse ‘porcetta’, venison shoulder with 

a foraged nettle sauce and a Scottish 

seafood platter while you share stories by 

the campfire with a dram of single malt. 

A 4-night expedition, including guiding, 

all activities, all meals, Land Rover vehicle 

hire and transfers costs from £3,500pp 

sharing. Departure spring 2021. 

wildnis.co.uk 

British Travel Journal top tip Get 

involved in the cooking too, Tom offers 

masterclasses on foraging, butchery and 

open-fire cooking.

à

6FOR THE ROYALIST 

Dream Escape: As with a Savile Row suit, the 

team at Dream Escape can tailor-make the most 

majestic royal tours. A sample itinerary is their 

England Royal Residences & Retreats – a 10-day 

private jaunt around significant royal landmarks. 

Mooch around Buckingham Palace, Windsor 

Castle and Sandringham House and take a 

behind-the-scenes look at Clarence House, home 

to Charles and Camilla. Ogle the Crown Jewels 

at the Tower of London, watch the Changing of 

the Guard and visit Westminster Abbey, where 

William and Kate got hitched. There are trips 

to shops which provide the royal households, a 

chance to shop in Eton and Champagne boat 

trips along the Thames, including one ending in a 

meal at the three Michelin-starred Waterside Inn, 

and stays in luxury accommodation - it’s a trip fit 

for a King or Queen. dreamescape.co.uk 

British Travel Journal top tip Plan your trip 

for May or September and it’s possible to tour 

Eton College (William and Harry’s Alma Mater). 

© GETTY IMAGES 

FOR THE TRAIN SPOTTER 

Jules Verne: You don’t really need to be a train 

geek to enjoy the Tracks of the Welsh Dragon. 

This steam train journey will transport anyone 

back to the romantic Golden Age of travel, with 

its traditional Pullman carriages, hauled by 

the 61306 Mayflower locomotive. The first two 

days of the four-day trip are spent chugging 

through the English, then the Welsh countryside, 

departing from London. You can wistfully watch 

the country’s most dramatic scenery drift past - 

including the Camarthenshire Hills, the Brecon 

Beacons, The Black Mountains and the Lleyn 

Peninsula. Come the evening guests disembark to 

stay in a hotel – the first night in Shrewsbury, the 

remaining three in the ‘fantasy’ Italianate village 

of Portmeirion, from where excursions take you to 

explore the spectacular Snowdonia area before 

the homeward train journey. vjv.com 

British Travel Journal top tip No need to 

climb Wales’ highest peak – take the Snowdon 

7Railway to the summit. 


FOR WILDLIFE LOVERS 

Hebridean Princess: The Western Isles of 

Scotland are famed for their blinding white 

8beaches, edge of the world feeling and 

out of this world wildlife - golden eagles, 

minke whales and otters are just some of 

the species you might see, on or offshore, 

from the Hebridean Princess. This boutique 

cruise ship hosts a maximum 50 guests, 

and her small size means she can access 

more remote spots, unreachable by larger 

vessels. On shore, experienced guides can 

take you to see the wildlife plus sights like 

the ancient Callanish standing stones and 

Colonsay House Gardens. If you prefer to 

do your own thing, grab one of the ship’s 

bikes and set off on your own explorations. 

The Western Isles Wildlife cruise runs from 

18-26 May 2021. hebridean.co.uk 

British Travel Journal top tip If you 

miss the boat (pardon the pun) this year, 

there’s a very similar cruise next year. 

à 


9 

© TREVOR WAUGH 

FOR THE ARTIST 

Lundy Island Sketchbook Safari: Whether keen 

amateur or complete beginner, then an opportunity 

to – ahem – brush up on your technique is on the 

Lundy Island Sketchbook Safari with Trevor Waugh. 

Lots of time in the great outdoors (or en plein air if 

you want to sound like a real artist) is guaranteed, 

sketching the landscape and wildlife of this tiny, 

quiet island off the North Devon coast. The bird 

life is particularly prolific in the early summer, when 

you may even get the chance to paint puffins and 

their chicks. Trevor will demonstrate water colour 

techniques and tips for capturing animals and 

there will be both group and individual tuition. 

Accommodation is in a large house overlooking a 

wooded valley, with views out to sea. The trip runs 

for four nights from 14 June 2021. 

wildlifeworldwide.com 

British Travel Journal top tip Snorkel at 

Gannet’s Bay and you may be lucky enough to 

swim with seals. 


10 

FOR THE HORTICULTURALIST 

Sisley Garden Tours: Green fingered readers may be 

interested in the brand new ‘secret gardens’ tours 

introduced by Sisley Garden Tours. These Exclusive 

Escapes for Garden Lovers allow small groups 

(maximum 12 people) to visit some of the best private 

gardens in the UK, many never open to the public. The 

stays are each based at just one comfortable hotel and 

then gloriously unhurried days are spent delving into 

these stunning gardens, chatting to their owners and 

then getting back to your hotel for some wining and 

dining… maybe the odd gardening anecdote! The tours 

will run May to September, when the gardens are at 

their spring and summer best. Destinations for 2021 are 

Cornwall, Dorset, the Wye Valley, North York Moors and 

the Cotswolds. sisley.co.uk/vip 

British Travel Journal top tip Do the North York 

Moors tour in June and find out how to make the best 

summer cocktails using herbs from your garden! 


PHOTO CREDIT: CLAIRE TAKACS 

New for 2021 – Exclusive Escapes for Garden Lovers. Available for booking now. 

+44 (0)1423 396506 I tours@sisley.co.uk I www.sisley.co.uk/vip 

NESTLED IN THE ROLLING VALLEYS OF 

DARTMOOR NATIONAL PARK, 

YOU WILL FIND AWARD WINNING LUXURY AT BOVEY CASTLE 

Escape to Bovey Castle 

Set in 275 acres of beautiful countryside within Devon’s Dartmoor National Park. 

The hotel offers 60 bedrooms and 22 self catering country lodges tucked away in the 

grounds, fashioned from local granite and vaulted with English oak. Smith’s Brasserie, 

luxury ‘Elan Spa’, award-winning 18 hole championship golf course and an array of 

outdoor pursuits and activities. 

@boveycastlehotel @BoveyCastle /BoveyCastleHotel 

WWW.BOVEYCASTLE.COM | 01647 445000 

BritishTravelJournal - 120mmx191mm - 17_09_2020.indd 1 17/09/2020 13:37

LOOKING AHEAD... 

CULTURAL AGENDA 

Visitors are encouraged to always check individual attraction 

websites for the latest information, as details are subject to change à 


LONDON 

Alice: Curiouser and Curiouser 

The iconic novels of Alice in Wonderland and 

Through the Looking Glass by Lewis Carroll are 

brought to life at the Victoria and Albert Museum 

in London until 31 December 2021. With over 

300 objects, the high concept exhibition, Alice: 

Curiouser and Curiouser, takes visitors through 

a rabbit hole from the 1865 manuscript to the 

novels’ various adaptations into film, ballet, art, 

fashion and more. Disney’s cartoon is an example. 

Highlights include early illustrations, showing 

how the White Rabbit and other characters were 

developed and a virtual reality game of croquet 

against the Queen of Hearts. ◆ 

vam.ac.uk 

SCOTLAND 

Night Fever: 

Designing Club Culture 

Ever since Bianca Jagger rode a white horse 

inside New York nightclub, Studio 54, 

in 1977, clubs have captured the cultural 

zeitgeist. They have also shaped people’s 

identity, says Kirsty Hassard, curator of 

Night Fever: Designing Club Culture at 

the V&A Dundee, which explores clubbing 

experience from Berlin to Glasgow since 

the Sixties, to 5 September 2021. Among 

photographs, films, clothes and more 

that evoke the vibe, like a disco gold lamé 

Halston dress worn at Studio 54, there 

are also objects from the clubs themselves 

including the Hacienda’s mirror ball and 

the papier-mâché submarine from above 

the bar at Glasgow’s Sub Club. ◆ 

vam.ac.uk/dundee 


We're visiting 

LONDON 

Pantechnicon 

Sachi is ready to open in Pantechnicon, a Japanese-Nordic food, 

drink and design emporium in Belgravia. It complements the eclectic 

shops, selling books to bikes, exclusive products and made-to-order 

furniture – and the Nordic restaurant, Eldr, with roof terrace. 

pantechnicon.com 

LONDON 

Royal Albert Hall’s 

150th birthday 

The Royal Albert Hall celebrates its 150th 

birthday on 29 March. Opened by Queen 

Victoria in 1871, this Kensington landmark 

has hosted gigs, operas, ballets and more 

as well as the annual summer music festival, 

the BBC Proms. So much more than just a 

beautiful Victorian venue, it’s the place of 

countless performances, stories and memories 

from countless visitors – where people have 

been singing, dancing, laughing and crying 

together since 1871. In March The Who 

plays with a full orchestra. ◆ 

royalalberthall.com 

CIRQUE DU SOLEIL, LUZIA, 2019 © ANNABEL MOELLER 

Editor loves 

LONDON 

LUCY DAWKINS © TATE 

Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirror Rooms 

For a dazzling experience after months of lockdown, head to 

Tate Modern. The Bankside gallery has cleared two rooms for 

polka dot queen, Yayoi Kusama’s immersive installations, on 

until 27 March 2022. Her signature dots go psychedelic and 

flash in ‘Filled with the Brilliance of Life’, whilst rotating 

chandeliers shimmer seemingly into infinity in ‘Chandelier of 

Grief’. Kusama’s infinity rooms have become a global 

phenomenon. Prepare to be revitalised. ◆ 

tate.org.uk 


OXFORDSHIRE 

Blenheim Palace Food Festival 

For a lively food experience in an august setting, head to 

Woodstock in Oxfordshire for the Blenheim Palace Food 

Festival from 29 to 31 May. Whet your culinary skills and 

tastebuds by watching the demonstrations or listening 

to talks from top chefs like Jean-Christophe Novelli, a 

previous participant. Over 100 regional food and drink 

specialists will attempt to tickle your palate, showcasing 

their gourmet produce, from burgers to craft beers. You 

might even bump into your favourite Bake Off contestant. 

Located by the Pleasure Gardens, take a miniature 

train to visit the palace too with its paintings, porcelain, 

tapestries and more. ◆ 

blenheimpalace.com 

LINCOLNSHIRE 

Burghley House 

When Burghley House in Lincolnshire re-opens on 20 March, 

the 16th century stately home will be celebrating a milestone: 

500 years since the birth of its designer, William Cecil, the 

first Baron Burghley, Elizabeth I’s Lord High Treasurer and 

chief adviser. It’s still the family home. To celebrate the birth 

and lasting legacy of Lord Burghley there will be a series of 

special events taking place throughout 2021 providing a 

fascinating insight into the man and his legacy. 

Burghley is one of the largest and grandest houses of the 

first Elizabethan age, Cecil's life as the most powerful man 

in the court of Elizabeth I was both eventful and effective, 

and helped to shape the history of the British Isles. His 

lasting legacy reaches far beyond the building of Burghley 

House to the magnificent collection of works of art from 

across the globe gathered by his descendants. Book for 

exhibitions to live music to 31 October. ◆ 

burghley.co.uk 

CORNWALL 

Charlestown Harbour 

In Cornwall why not try your hand at traditional sailing? Jump aboard 

one of Charlestown Harbour’s fleet of traditional wooden boats for a 

day sailing experience, join a sailing holiday or commission your own 

private charter. Learn to hoist the sails, trim the rig, take the wheel 

and set a course along Cornwall’s coastline – or sit back and relax 

with wind under sail and spot for dolphins! 2-day cruise to Cawsand 

(sailing on Anny, a 1930’s Topsail Schooner) in April 2021 priced from 

£210 per person, including all your food aboard ship. ◆ 

charlestownharbour.com 

© JAMES PEARCE/LEXISPLACE 


We're ordering 

DELIVERED NATIONWIDE 

Northcote At Home Gourmet Box 

If you are missing top-notch Michelin-starred cuisine, Northcote in 

Lancashire’s Ribble Valley has created new dishes using finest seasonal 

ingredients (£105 for two people), courtesy of creative Executive Chef, 

Lisa Goodwin-Allen and her team, to enjoy at your own dinner table. 

northcote.com/at-home/gourmet-boxes 

WILTSHIRE 

As seen in Bridgerton 

Wilton House 

Easter marks the re-opening of Wilton House, the Palladian 

Wiltshire home of the Earls of Pembroke, rebuilt by celebrated 

architects, Inigo Jones and John Webb in 1647. The ornate 

rooms may seem familiar, often acting as television and 

film backdrops. Most recently on Netflix, Wilton House 

was used to create four different residences in the period 

drama series Bridgerton, and the Double Cube Room with 

its Old Master paintings and Chippendale mirrors are the 

Buckingham Palace interiors for Netflix’s The Crown. Other 

must visits include the Gothic Cloisters where Napoleon I’s 

dispatch box, a lock of Queen Elizabeth I’s hair and more are 

displayed. Roam around the 21 acre parkland or head for the 

Holbein Porch, the house’s original Tudor entrance. ◆ 

wiltonhouse.co.uk 

© TIM GOODMAN 

DAVID HOCKNEY, NO. 299, 29TH APRIL 2020 AND NO. 

339, 18TH MAY 2020 IPAD DRAWINGS © DAVID HOCKNEY 

LONDON 

David Hockney: The Arrival of 

Spring, Normandy 

After two blockbuster shows at the Royal Academy of Arts (a 

50 year retrospective in 2012 and portraits in 2016), David 

Hockney returns with vibrant new work. This time, he reveals 

his sprawling garden in Normandy through over 100 iPad 

drawings created between 11 February and 4 July last year, 

using his Brushes app, upgraded to his own specifications, 

depicting trees, flower beds, his home and more. ◆ 

royalacademy.org.uk 


MEET THE MAKERS... 

BLACK 

COW 

PURE MILK VODKA 

Visiting farms deep in the West Dorset countryside, it’s not unusual 

to discover examples of innovation meeting necessity. But would 

you expect to find the world’s only vodka made from cows’ milk? 

We meet the trailblazers responsible... 

Words | Karyn Noble 

“ 

WEST DORSET IS A GREAT place to visit, it’s a lovely 

gentle landscape. But a lot of people drive past us or go 

on to Cornwall, and there’s a lot to do here.” Paul Archard 

(aka ‘Archie’), co-founder of Black Cow Vodka, is sitting 

in the custom-designed Bar + Kitchen adjoining the distillery in Childhay. He 

casually reels off the outstanding cheese, cured meat and wine producers of 

the famed agricultural region; the flourishing arts scene; the local creatives 

making knives and “amazing things out of metal”. But what about the little 

project he has going with his dairy farmer neighbour, Jason Barber? “We set 

out to make the world’s best vodka, that’s what we set out to do, basically,” 

chimes in Jason. “And we’re pretty much there, to be honest.” 

à 


WHEN WHEY IS NOT A WASTE 

PRODUCT 

Jason’s family have been making 

Cheddar cheese since 1833, which 

makes the Barbers the oldest surviving 

Cheddar cheesemakers in the world. 

‘Basically, my cows are milked twice 

a day and I sell the milk to my family,” 

says Jason. “They want the protein [the 

curds] to make the cheese and we want 

the lactose [from the whey] because 

it’s the sugar that makes the alcohol.” 

They venture they’ve made one of the 

most sustainable vodkas on the planet, 

given whey’s reputation as a waste 

material. “Typically, whey is a rather 

forgotten-about product,” says Archie. 

“Especially in this country. 

Pictured previous 

spread: Black Cow 

vodka founders 

Paul Archard (left) 

and Jason Barber 

(right). Pictured 

above: The Black 

Cow Distillery 

Bar + Kitchen. 

Pictured right: The 

distillery - where the 

magic happens. 

The Italians really know how to 

use whey. We end up feeding it to the 

pigs. What we’ve done is we’ve taken 

an almost valueless by-product from 

cheese-making production and turned 

it into something wonderful.” 

The whey is fermented with a 

special yeast that converts the lactose 

into alcohol. This milky beer is distilled 

in a pot called Ermintrude (named after 

the cow from children’s TV show The 

Magic Roundabout), then blended and 

triple-filtered into a very pure, smooth 

and velvety vodka. The realisation that 

they didn’t need to add water was a 

significant breakthrough texturally 

and taste-wise. “There’s a real lack of 

minerality,” says Archie, “It’s incredibly 


“ 

Not needing to add water was 

a significant breakthrough... It’s 

incredibly soft. It’s got this creamy 

texture and that’s because 

everything comes from milk 

” 

soft. It’s got this creamy texture and that’s because 

everything in that bottle comes from milk.” 

While it was initially difficult to get their distilling 

licence (“When we talked to HMRC, they didn’t 

know quite how to deal with it”, says Archie), they 

give kudos to “maverick” Julian Temperley from 

Somerset Cider Brandy Company (see page 84) who 

obtained the UK’s first-ever cider-distilling licence, for 

paving the way and breaking the monopoly of larger 

distilleries. The first bottle of Black Cow Vodka was 

sold in May 2012 and then it was a matter of winning 

over bartenders and distributors. “When we first went 

to the bars, there were probably about 12 vodkas on 

the back bars,” says Jason. “Now there’s probably 

à 


“ 

Everyone makes Espresso 

Martinis with liqueur – Kahlua or 

Tia Maria – we don’t - and yet, you 

still get the most perfect Espresso 

Martini with the perfect head. 

” 

five: you’ll find a rye one, a wheat one, a milk one. Now 

it’s all about the raw material and I like to think that we 

had something to do with that.” The vodka is now sold 

in 17 countries. “Once we get people to try it, they’re 

normally converted to it,” says Archie. “We have a very 

good conversion rate.” 

THE FOODIES’ VODKA 

‘What grows together goes together’ is the ethos 

behind their recommendation of pairing their pure 

milk vodka with cheese. “We really see ourselves as the 

foodie’s vodka of choice and it’s a great thing to have 

with food,” says Archie. “In Poland and Russia, people 

think they knock back vodka as shots. They do but 

they’ve always got little bits of food, whether it’s nuts 

or dried fish. One of the best things is cheese. Jason’s 

family made this incredible Black Cow Deluxe Cheddar 

that we sell at Fortnum & Mason. It goes really well 

with a bit of Jarlsberg or a bit of Brie or Stilton or 

anything. It also goes really well with seafood, it’s great 

with oysters, it’s great with prosciutto.” 

They have branched out into a sustainably 

produced English Strawberries Vodka (launched in the 

summer of 2019) as well as a Christmas Spirit that was 

much lauded by locked-down Brits across the winter 

of 2020. But bartenders are particularly impressed 

with the purity of the original spirit, which lends itself 

to holding fragile flavours very well. “Everyone makes 

Espresso Martinis with liqueur – Kahlua or Tia Maria 

– we don’t,” says Archie. “The reason why they do 

that is to make it sweeter and because they want it to 

froth up, so it’s got a head like a Guinness. But if we 

just put in maple syrup and make an espresso, you put 

them with our vodka in a shaker, and you get the most 

perfect Espresso Martini with the perfect head like a 

Guinness, and that holds because of the lack of the 

minerality in the water. Restaurants love it because 

they don’t have to pay for the shot of the liqueur, which 

means they make a better profit on it as well.” 


THE VISITOR EXPERIENCE 

While the team have missed hosting distillery tours 

during Britain’s COVID-19 lockdown, there’s usually a 

variety of idyllic, bucolic experiences for food and drink 

lovers. “We’d go out on the farm and take you around 

the cows,” says Jason. “Have plenty of drinks, see a bit 

of the countryside.” 

Acclaimed local chef and restaurateur Mark Hix is 

also a frequent visitor to the Black Cow Bar + Kitchen, 

having designed the three-course lunch that’s part 

of the Distillery Experience, which also includes a 

cocktail-making class in addition to the distillery tour. 

“Mark puts a recipe together for us with locally sourced 

food,” says Archie. “We integrate the vodka and the 

cheese. There’s hand-picked scallops out of the bay at 

the moment or someone’s shooting rabbits or picking 

mushrooms.” 

Whatever the future brings, Archie and Jason 

remain as inventive as ever, particularly when it comes 

to cocktail creations. “I would love to do a Gorgonzola 

cheese wash martini with a pear infusion,” says Jason. 

“Do you think the world is ready for it? We could do it.” 

While Archie concedes that he and Jason “always 

like to think quite big”, despite their enthusiasm and 

ambition, neither can have truly anticipated the 

outcome of a casual chat in 2002 with one of the dairy 

workers, Jozef. Jason was gauging Jozef’s opinion on 

their latest distilling experiment, an eau de vie: “he’s 

Polish, so I said to him, come on Jozef, how do you 

make vodka, it’s your national drink? And he said 

‘anything with sugar in it’. And I thought, hold up, 

JASON AND ARCHIE’S DORSET 

FOOD AND ACCOMMODATION TIPS 

– 

THE FOX INN, CORSCOMBE 

“We already love going to Mark Hix’s restaurant 

(The Oyster & Fish House in Lyme Regis: 

theoysterandfishhouse.co.uk, but he’s just taken over 

this pub, which locals have been going to for decades, 

and it’s amazing.” 

thefoxinncorscombe.co.uk 

BRASSICA RESTAURANT, 

BEAMINSTER 

“Our friend Cass is the chef there and the owner, with 

his wife Louise. Foodwise, it’s really good.” 

brassicarestaurant.co.uk 

THE SEASIDE BOARDING HOUSE, 

BRIDPORT 

“Run by our friend Mary-Lou Sturridge, who used to 

be the MD of the Groucho Club [in London]. She’s set 

this up, which is really a hotel. It’s a really good place 

to stay, very relaxing, right on the sea” 

theseasideboardinghouse.com 

THE OLLEROD, BEAMINSTER 

“The Ollerod, which is the name of a flower, is a 

wonderful place to stay, the food’s really good, the 

bar’s really lively and the rooms are really nice.” 

theollerod.co.uk 

CRAFTY CAMPING, HOLDITCH 

“Guy Mallinson, who is a friend of ours, has built 

absolute luxury treehouses, which have got beautiful 

bathrooms in them: proper five-star treehouses.” 

mallinson.co.uk 

HARRY MAY DEEP SEA & MACKEREL 

FISHING TRIPS, LYME REGIS 

“Harry takes people out on day trips fishing, which is 

excellent if you want to come and catch your own fish 

and eat it.” 

mackerelfishinglymeregis.com 

milk’s got sugar in it.” Archie remembers the two of 

them looking out the kitchen window towards Jason’s 

herd of 250 grass-fed dairy cows. “We took one 

look at those lovely ladies and I looked at Jason and 

saw a lightbulb go on over his head.” It took years of 

experimentation to get them to a unique product: a 

vodka not just derived from milk, but made entirely 

from it. 


THE 

ICKWORTH 

Nestled in the heart of the Suffolk countryside, 

surrounded by acres of protected woodland within 

a National Trust landscape, The Ickworth is a 

sumptuous family retreat like no other. 

Words | Jessica Way 


PICTURED 

LEFT-RIGHT: 

THE ICKWORTH 

HOTEL FROM 

THE ITALIANATE 

GARDEN; 

CYCLING IN 

THE ESTATE 

GROUNDS; FUN 

SPLASHING 

IN MUDDY 

PUDDLES; 

THE LIBRARY 

It’s been a difficult year for all, living 

through a global pandemic, and 

an especially confusing time for our 

younger generation. If there’s one 

proven remedy that’s always worked 

for my children it’s getting them outside, 

enjoying the countryside and exploring the 

great outdoors. 

The simple pleasure little ones receive 

from splashing in muddy puddles, 

clambering up ancient trees, being in 

nature and breathing in the crisp clean 

air - it’s both therapy and family-time at its 

best. 

Set in an unrivalled location, 1,800 

acres of beautiful parkland and rolling 

Suffolk countryside, there’s no better 

place to spend quality time than this 

exquisite country house. The Ickworth 

Hotel, which dates back to the Domesday 

book (when it was merely one of hundreds 

of assets belonging to the Abbey of 

Bury St Edmunds), is not only one of 

the Luxury Family Hotels’ five stunning 

hotels, renowned for their individual 

character and exceptional family-focused 

hospitality - but it’s also one of just three 

independently-owned British hotels that 

are also National Trust properties (the 

other two being Cliveden House, Berkshire 

and The Causeway Hotel, County Antrim). 

The National Trust, who own just five 

hotels themselves, (The Causeway Hotel, 

Northern Ireland, Hunter's Inn, Exmoor 

National Park and the Historic House trio, 

Bodysgallen Hall, North Wales, Hartwell 

House Hotel, Buckinghamshire and 

Middlethorpe Hall Hotel, North Yorkshire) 

is Europe’s largest conservation charity. 

The trust - which celebrated its 125-year 

anniversary in 2020 - care for hundreds of 

historic buildings and miles of coastline, 

woodlands, countryside, gardens and 

precious collections throughout the British 

Isles. 

The Ickworth, just two hours from 

London, is a preserved masterpiece of 

Italian-inspired architecture, and said to 

be one of the first of its kind in the UK. 

Its most distinguishing feature, 

over 100 feet high, is its very own 

grand Italianate Rotunda. 

à 


“ 

The Ickworth is a preserved masterpiece of Italian-inspired 

architecture, and said to be one of the first of its kind in the UK. 

” 

The long straight driveway leading you 

directly to it only enhances the wow-factor, 

watch the kids’ excitement grow as it gets 

seemingly larger as you edge your way closer 

on arrival. 

This impressive building was the brainchild 

of Frederick Augustus, 4th Earl of Bristol 

and the Bishop of Derry (also known as the 

Earl-Bishop) who wanted to create a house 

for his family and provide galleries for his art 

collection. The East Wing of the house is today 

the hotel, while the West Wing is a visitor 

centre and café. 

There are daily tours exploring the 

magnificent Italianate palace while 

uncovering the stories behind Ickworth, and 

the flamboyant pride of the 4th Earl of Bristol. 

A multi-million-pound major conservation 

project mending the Rotunda roof was 

in progress during our stay, and we were, 

unfortunately, unable to delve into the Hervey 

family’s legacy, but will be sure to return at a 

time when we can see the Rotunda back to its 

original glory. 

The parkland and gardens at Ickworth 

proved more than enough to keep us occupied. 

Maps are available from reception providing 

routes ranging from a sedate stroll along the 

half-mile Lady Geraldine walk to an energetic 

seven-mile bike ride along Grand Tour. Armed 

with a GPS device you can even try geocaching 

here (basically a modern-day treasure hunt 

around the parkland!) Worried you don’t have 

a pushchair designed for countryside walks? 

PICTURED 

LEFT-RIGHT: 

THE ROTUNDA; 

ENTRANCE TO THE 

ICKWORTH HOTEL; 

OUR EDITOR 

JESSICA TAKES A 

BIKE RIDE ALONG 

THE RIVER; THE 

ROUND HOUSE IN 

THE ICKWORTH 

STATE GROUNDS; 

THE RIVER LINNET; 

THE WALLED 

GARDEN 


Don’t worry, iCandy’s are available for complimentary 

hire from the hotel. We hired bikes (stabilisers and 

toddler seats available), and began our journey through 

Deer Park where Ickworth’s resident herd of deer roam 

free. Look out for Parson's Pond on your right before 

passing rows of old oak trees and St. Mary’s Church 

on your left, the oldest building on the estate. Recently 

restored, here you can see a 13th century altar and 14th 

century wall painting of the Annunciation of Angel 

Gabriel. 

Take some time to explore The Walled Garden and 

canal lake, the 1st Earl’s ‘springe’ garden, whose son 

John so eloquently describes “lavish Nature’s favourite 

Blessings flow, and all the seasons all their Sweets 

bestow”. Discover the Earl's Summer House and look out 

for the tin man scarecrow made from recycled objects. 

There’s an abundance of flowers, wildlife, apple trees, 

and other fruits and vegetables growing - it’s the perfect 

picnic spot. 

Carry on along the river and pick up the Monument 

Trail, passing grazing sheep and miles of beautiful 

à 


IMAGES LEFT: THE 

CONSERVATORY; 

VINTAGE WINE 

RECOMMENDED BY AN 

EXPERT SOMMELIER; 

HEDGEROW BAKEWELL 

TART, VANILLA ICE 

CREAM, TOASTED 

MARZIPAN AND SOUR 

CHERRY 

woodland. If you’re lucky you might see deer as you glide 

through Stoney Hill and Lownde Wood. Pass the Round 

House to your left, a mini cottage resembling a folky 

version of the rotunda before heading over Fairy Lake 

bridge. From here you can choose to turn left along the 

River Linnet back towards The Walled Garden, or pick up 

another trail - Lady Hervey’s Walk which takes you through 

Fontainebleau Grove and Adkins Wood then back to the 

hotel entrance. 

As a guest staying at the hotel you are welcomed to 

explore the estate and discover the house both by day, 

(with free access to the Ickworth National Trust site), and, 

as night falls, with exclusive after-hours access to the 

wonderful Italianate Gardens (from 6pm until 9pm) via a 

gate behind the house. 

Spend your time in this magnificent landscape gently 

strolling the neat pathways, lined with à manicured 

hedges, lush lawns, beautiful borders and towering cypress 

trees. Walking in the footsteps of aristocratic ladies and 

gentlemen, who in the gardens’ heyday, would spend their 

leisure time here playing croquet or promenading on the 

raised terrace, will leave you feeling invigorated. And as 

Lady Mary MacRae, granddaughter of the 4th Marquess 

remarked, wandering through the blossomed trees in the 

gardens in spring is "like walking through lace". 

The children will enjoy playing ‘find the giraffe 

sculptures’, and if they still have energy left to burn, there’s 

a slide and swing in the fairy garden, cars, trampolines, 

sandpit, scooters and scavenger hunts. We opted for the 

indoor heated swimming pool, which is well stocked with 

floats, foam noodles, and everything else your little ones 

might need. 

And this is certainly what sets Luxury Family Hotels 

apart from other great British hotels, being family-focused 

is at the heart of ‘everything’ they do. Their attention to 

detail is unsurpassed. 

From every item of baby equipment you could possibly 

need, including cots, nappy bins and bottle warmers, 

fresh morning and evening milk delivered to your room, 

free childcare each day, to collecting your children and 

entertaining them with a Sunday morning breakfast club, 

so that you can enjoy a lie-in. 

When dinner time comes, there’s a baby-monitoring 

system available in the room - the option for an earlier 

Children’s High Tea, ‘Younger Ones’ menus, together with 

‘mocktails’, and a chef on hand to provide puréed food. 


Older children will love making friends in the Games 

Room, watching the latest blockbusters in the cinema 

room (daily at 6pm) or challenging themselves to a 

game of tennis. 

As this is a hotel that makes couple time easy, be 

sure to book yourself a table for two at Frederick’s - 

the hotel’s two rosette fine dining restaurant. Spend 

a romantic evening for two dining by candlelight, 

sipping vintages recommended by an expert sommelier, 

sampling cuisine based on seasonal ingredients from 

local and artisan suppliers. The À la carte menu is 

every bit as sensational as the setting, overlooking the 

Italianate Gardens, including tandoori spiced scallops, 

truffle and parmesan chips, King oysters, Shakshuka 

and decadent desserts - the Hedgerow Bakewell tart 

with vanilla ice cream, toasted marzipan and sour 

cherry was divine! 

Another highlight of our stay was our bedroom 

‘Grand Tour’ - decorated exquisitely in period style, 

IMAGES ABOVE: WELCOMING GUESTS TO THE ICKWORTH; 

FREDERICK’S - THE HOTEL’S TWO ROSETTE FINE DINING 

RESTAURANT; THE LOUNGE; GRAND TOUR PERIOD-STYLE 

BATHROOM OVERLOOKING THE ITALIANATE GARDENS 

complete with an 8ft bed and views (also overlooking 

the Italianate Gardens), we felt like the Lord and Lady 

of the manor! The hotel boasts 27 family suites and 

interconnecting bedrooms, or for something more 

private book The Lodge - the former Dower House set 

on the estate just half a mile from the main hotel, with 

eight further apartments and three double rooms set 

amongst four acres of gardens. 

Rooms from £199 per night B&B, +44 (0)208 0765555 

luxuryfamilyhotels.co.uk 


ISLE OF ISLAY... 

LORD 

OF THE ISLES 

Islay was once home to Scotland’s fearsome 

Lord of the Isles. Today it is one of the premiere 

whisky-producing areas in the world. 

Words | Adrian Mourby 

IN THE FAR west of Scotland, only 25 miles from the coast of 

Northern Ireland, lies a whisky-producing island known as 

Islay. At 239 square miles it is slightly smaller than Singapore 

(260 sqm), yet this mossy, windswept rock is home to 

seven of Scotland’s greatest distilleries: Ardbeg, Bowmore, 

Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, Caol Ila, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig, 

as well as two of the newest, Kilchoman and Ardnahoe. 

Long-term and passionate lovers of whisky, my wife and I arrived 

one autumn evening in Islay’s Port Askaig after a rainy, two-hour 

crossing from the mainland. As our ferry squeezed slowly up the 

narrow channel that separates Islay from its sister island, Jura, it 

was already growing dark and the tiny port was lit up. Caledonian 

MacBrayne, the ferry company that keeps Scotland’s islands 

supplied in all weathers, is very efficient at loading and offloading. 

We were swiftly marshalled off, and followed every other car 

up the steep harbour road. Dark, flat moorland dotted with white 

cottages led us south to Bowmore, Islay’s capital. 


© PAUL TOMKINS/VISIT SCOTLAND/SCOTTISH VIEWPOINT 

Pictured above right 

inset: On board 

the MV Finlaggan 

Caledonian 

MacBrayne ferry as 

she sails through the 

Sound of Islay en 

route to Islay 

Close to Bowmore stands Islay House, 

which was built by Sir Hugh Campbell 

of Cawdor in the eighteenth century. 

Sir Hugh’s great grandfather, Sir 

John Campbell had been granted the 

whole of Islay by the Scottish Crown. 

His mission for King James VI was to 

tame the troublesome local lords who 

ruled the islands in almost complete 

independence. He succeeded. 

Various owners added to Islay House 

over the centuries until it became the 

island’s grandest home, resembling 

a white Balmoral. In the twentieth 

century its owner, Lord Margadale 

hosted not only the Queen but several 

Conservative prime ministers at his 

home. Since 2014 it has been a hotel, 

with one of the top floor bedrooms 

where the Iron Lady often stayed 

named “Thatcher”. 

We were delighted to abandon 

our mud-bespattered car outside the 

front door and step into an entrance 

hall with a blazing log fire. There was 

a whisky decanter and two glasses 

waiting in our bedroom. Dinner was 

in the Jib Door, a gracious, antlered 

à 

BritishTravelJournal.com 57 

©VISITBRITAIN/TOMO BREJC

“ 

The next morning Islay was 

bathed in sunshine as we relaxed on 

the old leather sofas in the drawing 

room and planned our attack on the 

island’s distilleries. 

” 

Islay House Hotel 

graveyard of the ruined Kilchoman church. Anthony 

Wills, who started this distillery in 2005 chose the 

site because it was the best farmland on Islay and he 

wanted to grow as much of the barley he needed on 

site. There are signs in the fields nearby telling you 

how much grain and therefore how much whisky each 

produces (most Islay distilleries buy in their barley from 

the mainland). 

Kilchoman has a lovely modern visitor centre with 

an elegant glass and metal log-burning stove in 

the middle. This was welcome because already the 

weather had shifted and rain was blowing up the loch 

from the Atlantic. 

That afternoon we spent some time in Bowmore, 

an eighteenth century new town of low, white-washed 

buildings - built by the Campbells on the other side 

of Loch Indaal. This is Islay’s capital and also where 

the famous Bowmore distillery is located. We visited 

the unusual Round Church and Celtic Stores which 

sells fairisle sweaters, seawashed paintings, unusual 

souvenirs like the Islay version of Monopoly, and many 

books about the island. From photo essays to poetry 

collections to highly-detailed history books, it’s clear 

that Islay has inspired a lot of writers. 

Dinner that evening was at the Bowmore Hotel, an old 

stone inn whose most recent extension was built in 1912. 

In the tartan-carpeted dining room, the chairs were made 

of local ash and elm. The array of fresh seafood on the 

menu was impressive and owner Big Peter MacLellan is 

renowned as an expert on Scotch whisky. 

dining room added to the house by the prolific 

architect – and aristocratic favourite - Detmar Blow at 

the beginning of the twentieth century. (The restaurant 

gets its name from the fact that you access it through a 

hidden doorway in the panelling of the old house.) 

The next morning Islay was bathed in sunshine as 

we relaxed on the old leather sofas in the drawing 

room and planned our attack on the island’s 

distilleries. Eventually we decided to drive west round 

the bay of Loch Indaal to one of the newest distilleries, 

Kilchoman. It stands very close to Kilchoman Cross, a 

fine piece of fourteenth-century Celtic carving in the 

58 BritishTravelJournal.com 

Ocean coast lighthouse in Port Charlotte

Cattle near Port Ellen 

The next day we headed down the most famous 

road in the history of distilling. Port Ellen stands on 

one of the southernmost tips of Islay. From it the A483 

road runs east and along it, within a two mile stretch 

it passes three of Scotland’s best-known distilleries: 

Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. We were going 

to be down this end of the island for a while on our 

whisky pilgrimage so I had booked into No1 Charlotte 

Street, a stately Victorian hotel with lofty public rooms, 

which have been given a funky colourful make-over by 

its manager, Caroline Park. 

After checking in to our very purple bedroom we 

drove along the coast. It was a misty day and when we 

got to Laphroaig great damo clouds of black smoke 

were hanging over the pagoda-like chimney above its 

kiln. The smell of the peat smoke was unmistakably 

the flavour of one of my favourite whiskies. We had an 

appointment with John Campbell, the manager, for 

a tour, during which he showed us the furnace where 

peat is burned to flavour the barley grains before they 

are mashed and distilled. 

John removed the bung from an enormous wooden 

cask in a warehouse so we could taste some of the 

whisky. It stays here on site for up to 15 years before 

being shipped to the mainland for bottling. 

Behind the distillery, Laphroaig owns all the land 

running up to the hills where its spring rises. Water is 

as important to the taste of whisky as barley (or indeed 

peat smoke). In 1908 the owner of what was about 

to become Lagavulin Distillery next door, “Restless” 

Peter Mackie tried to dam Laphroaig’s stream. So now 

Laphroaig owns the whole length of the watercourse. 

Just to be on the safe side… 

Laphroaig Distillery 

© PAUL TOMKINS/VISIT SCOTLAND/SCOTTISH VIEWPOINT 

Lagavulin Distillery 

Relations with Lagavulin are much more cordial 

these days. We weren’t in time to get a tour of their 

distillery, but we did get to taste four excellent whiskies 

in the company of Isla Gale, one of the company’s 

whisky guides. Isla chatted amiably with us for over 

an hour, and we learned not just about whisky but a 

lot about life on this island, including some indiscreet 

details (which you won’t read here). 

à 


“ 

We produce the best whisky in the world here but 

everything has to be delivered by boat - I’ve run out! 

” 

Ardbeg, the last in these three whisky 

gods was closed that day so we drove 

on past it to a lovely little sandy bay, 

Loch a’Chnuic where people were 

swimming. 

Even though the sun had come 

out briefly they were all in wet suits 

against the chill weather. Soon 

afterwards on a headland we came 

upon Kidalton (another of Islay’s 

ruined churches) and its eighthcentury 

Celtic cross. Almost on cue 

the mist began to descend, which lent 

the ruins and its graveyard a suitably 

brooding quality. Inside the roofless 

church there were tombstones 

representing armoured knights from 

the days when Islay was ruled by the 

Lord of the Isles. 

That evening we ate at the Islay 

Hotel in Port Ellen. It was another 

great meal of seafood in a packed 

dining room with Isias, a jovial 

Spanish wine waiter who told us he 

was waiting for supplies of bottled 

Laphroaig to be shipped back from 

the mainland: “We produce the 

best whisky in the world here but 

everything has to be delivered by 

boat - and I’ve run out!” 

Our ferry back to the mainland 

was booked from Port Ellen the 

next morning. The MV Finlaggan is 

named after the ancient capital of 

the Lord of the Isles. It seemed an apt 

way to leave this enchanting place. 

This time we’d only managed three of 

the eight distilleries, but that’s a very 

good excuse to return next year. 

The Caledonian Sleeper leaves Euston 

Station nightly to arrive early morning 

in Glasgow. Prices from £140, 

sleeper.scot Caledonian Macbrayne 

run ferries from Kennacraig on the 

Scottish mainland to both Port Askaig 

and Port Ellen. A single journey takes 

approximately two hours, prices from 

£41.20 calmac.co.uk 

© VISITSCOTLAND / JOHN DUNCAN 

WHERE TO STAY 

– 

ISLAY HOUSE 

Bridgend PA44 7PA 

01496 810287 

islayhouse.co.uk 

1 CHARLOTTE STREET 

Port Ellen PA42 7DG 

01496 300120 

no1charlottestreet.com 

THE LOCHSIDE 

Bowmore PA43 7LB 

01496810244 

lochsidehotel.co.uk 

WHERE TO EAT 

– 

BOWMORE HOTEL 

Bowmore, PA43 7HL 

01496810416 

bowmorehotel.co.uk 

THE ISLAY HOTEL 

Port Ellen, PA42 7DF 

01496300109 

theislayhotel.com 

DISTILLERIES TO VISIT 

– 

LAPHROAIG 

Port Ellen, PA42 7DU 

01496 302418 

laphroaig.com 

LAGAVULIN 

Port Ellen, PA42 7DX 

01496 302749 

diageo.com 

KILCHOMAN 

Rockside Farm, Bruichladdich, 

PA49 7UT 

01496 850011 

kilchomandistillery.com 


Pictured: 

Looking from 

the steps of a 

hillside towards 

the pier at 

Whitby, North 

Yorkshire. 


©VISITBRITAIN / SIMON PALMER

TOP TEN PLACES TO VISIT IN 

YORKSHIRE 

Britain’s largest county has a proud 

identity all of its own 

Words | Adrian Mourby 

BRITAIN IS A long country, 

running over 700 miles on its 

north-south axis. This means 

that our greatest national 

variations are not found 

between towns on the east and west 

coasts but between the north and south. 

Half way up the country, and closer to 

Scotland than London, stands 

Yorkshire, solid and sturdy, and the 

biggest county in England. Historically 

Yorkshire was so far from the king in 

London that it had its own autonomous 

archbishop since before the Norman 

Conquest. In the Middle Ages the dukes 

of York were so powerful they seized the 

English throne from time to time. 

Today Yorkshire remains proud of its 

sense of difference. It has produced many 

great writers including the Brontë sisters, 

Ted Hughes and even Alan Bennett. In 

the visual arts it was the birthplace home 

of Barbara Hepworth, Henry Moore 

and of David Hockney, whose work still 

celebrates his native Saltaire in West 

Yorkshire. Moreover the British music hall 

and BBC television would have run out of 

comedians years ago if it weren’t for the 

dry humour of Yorkshire. 

So here is our guide to the Top Ten places 

to visit in Yorkshire in 2021 and if this 

whets your appetite there are many more 

for you to discover on a second visit in the 

years to come. 

à 


1BEST ABBEY 

RIEVAULX 

Because of its remote moorland Yorkshire was often 

chosen as a place for religious retreats. Rievaulx 

Abbey was founded in the early twelfth century 

by Cistercian monks from France. It occupies 

a romantic wooded valley deep in the North 

York Moors. St Aelred, one of the first abbots of 

Rievaulx, wrote of the location 'everywhere peace, 

everywhere serenity'. Under Aelred the abbey 

grew to great wealth thanks to the enterprise of 

its 140 monks and 500 lay brothers. This religious 

community farmed, brewed, traded and even set up 

an early blast furnace on the site. When Henry VIII 

dissolved the monasteries in 1538 Rievaulx fell into 

disrepair, but in the eighteenth century its beautiful 

remains became a place of inspiration for artists. 

In the 1750s local land-owner, Thomas Duncombe 

MP built a terrace along the valley top from which 

the abbey ruins can be still be admired today. The 

soaring Gothic arches of Rievaulx’s choir -mercifully 

intact - continue to inspire visitors and there is also 

a new café and museum on the site. 

english-heritage.org.uk 


Pictured 

above: 

Rievaulx 

Abbey is the 

perfect choice 

for a peaceful 

day out, with 

its extensive 

ruins and 

fascinating 

museum in a 

secluded North 

York Moors 

valley. 

Right: 

Young woman 

looking at the 

window of 

Betty's Cafe 

Tea Rooms, 

York. 

©VISITBRITAIN/ASHLIEGH WICK

2 

BEST TEA ROOM 

BETTYS 

Bettys occupies a prominent position 

in Helen's Square, York and on the corner 

of Parliament Street and Montpellier 

Parade in Harrogate. It also occupies a 

special place in the heart of Yorkshire 

people. This small chain of elegant cafes 

was begun in 1919 by a Swiss confectioner 

called Frederic Belmont who arrived in 

Harrogate speaking very little English. At 

the time this spa-town was a goldmine 

thanks to wealthy visitors seeking to 

drink it restorative waters. (To modern 

sensibilities the sulphurous waters of 

Harrogate are far too pungent to support 

a tourism industry!). Belmont’s business 

prospered, later merging with the famous 

coffee-makers, Taylors of Harrogate. 

Today there are six Bettys across Yorkshire 

and the company is still owned by Frederic 

Belmont’s descendants. The Lady Betty 

Afternoon Tea presented on a three-tier 

cake stand is the signature dish of these 

tea rooms but also popular are Bettys 

Champagne Truffles, Yorkshire “Fat 

Rascal” Scones, Lemon and Lime Cake 

and the Bettys Bread Box. 

bettysandtaylors.co.uk 

à 


3 

©VISITBRITAIN/MATTCANT/ANDREW PICKETT 

BEST TRAIL 

THE LYKE WAKE WALK 

This 40-mile crossing of the remote North York 

Moors starts near Osmotherley and finishes 

near Ravenscar on the East Sea coast. It is 

possible to do the entire route on heather, 

hardly ever stepping onto a roadway. Although 

the walk was only designated in 1955, it took 

its name from the old Scandinavian word for 

a corpse (Lyke) because when the Vikings 

ruled Yorkshire the people who inhabited 

this area would carry their dead across these 

moors to their ancestral burial grounds. There 

is a powerful ancient hymn (set by Benjamin 

Britten, amongst others) called The Lyke-Wake 

Dirge which conjures up the terrors of crossing 

these moors by night. 

When farmer/broadcaster Bill Cowley 

created the Lyke Wake Challenge in 1955 he 

proposed that all 40 miles be completed in 24 

hours. Undertaking the route today in a less 

spartan manner, the Lyke Wake Walk offers the 

chance to see a landscape crossed by few other 

travellers and no signs of modern development. 

It feels like stepping into history. 

lykewakewalk.co.uk 

BEST CITY 

YORK 

York is one of the most beautiful cities in Britain. Its encircling 

medieval walls remain almost complete and where they had 

to be blasted apart to let the railways in, it has one of the 

most graceful late nineteenth-century train stations. When, 

opened in 1877 this was the biggest station in the world with 

13 broad platforms. In the twentieth century the station’s 

interior featured in the Harry Potter films as part of King 

Cross. Another Potter connection is the medieval shopping 

street known as “Shambles”. Its overhanging upper floors 

were the inspiration for the design of Diagon Alley. York has a 

history of occupation going back to Roman and Viking times 

but its absolute glory is York Minster, a sublime construction 

from the fourteenth and fifteenth-centuries whose east 

window is the largest stained glass in Britain. 

visityork.org 

Pictured above left-right: Two people walking in 

the North Yorkshire landscape; The Shambles is an 

old street in York, England, with overhanging timber-framed 

buildings, some dating back as far as the 

fourteenth century. 


4 

Pictured: The centre of York, surrounded by 

walls whose foundations date back to medieval 

times. There is a wall walk around the city. 

York Minster at sunset. 

à 

BritishTravelJournal.com 67 

VISTBRITAIN/ANDREW PICKETT

5BEST SEASIDE RESORT 

SCARBOROUGH 

“Scarborough Spa” became Britain’s first seaside 

resort after a stream of acidic water was 

discovered running down one the cliffs above 

its port in the seventeenth century. In those 

days such waters were considered good for 

one’s health and by 1735 Britain’s first bathing 

machines were being rolled out into the sea from 

Scarborough’s beaches. 

In the nineteenth century many hotels were 

constructed on top of Scarborough’s cliffs 

including The Crown, which was Yorkshire’s first 

purpose-built resort hotel and The Grand, which 

was the biggest hotel in Europe when it opened in 

1867. Both still welcome guests today. The town 

also has a number of Georgian structures built 

for visitors including the Rotunda Museum, the 

Cliff Bridge, and Scarborough Pier Lighthouse. 

Its church contains works by the Pre-Raphaelite 

artists Rossetti, Burne-Jones, William Morris and 

Ford Madox Brown. 

Another famous name associated with this 

fashionable resort was the novelist Anne Brontë 

who in 1849 died in a clifftop boarding house 

where the Grand Hotel stands today. Ironically 

she had come to Scarborough to try and recover 

her health. 

visitscarborough.com 

© BRITAINONVIEW/GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO 


7 

BEST TOWN 

RICHMOND 

James Herriot, author of All Creatures 

Great & Small told the story of a man from 

Richmond going to heaven only to be told 

by St Peter that he might find his new home 

a bit disappointing. 

The market town of Richmond at the 

foot of Swaledale is truly gorgeous and 

full of elegant Georgian houses that teeter 

down steep wynds (streets) towards the 

river Swale. It’s dominated by the 100-foot 

keep of a huge Norman castle that was 

completed here in 1086. Scolland’s Hall, 

a residential building within the castle 

complex is one of the oldest buildings in 

England and the castle’s outer bailey is now 

the town’s market place. Today Richmond 

has a working cinema in its old railway 

station and a tiny Theatre Royal which 

dates back to 1788 and has recently been 

restored to its original Georgian colour 

scheme. 

Not surprisingly Richmond is also 

a popular base from which to explore 

the Yorkshire Dales National Park of 

Swaledale, Wharfedale and Wensleydale. 

richmond.org/guide 

6 

BEST HOTEL 

MIDDLETHORPE HALL & SPA 

Middlethorpe Hall is one of the National Trust’s Yorkshire gems, a 

sublime example of William and Mary architecture. It was constructed 

in expensive red brick in 1699 for Thomas Barlow, a wealthy Sheffield 

industrialist.Thomas sited it close to the main road into York so no one 

could fail to notice his wealth. When the Barlow family went on the 

Grand Tour in 1712 they let their house to Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, 

who had just eloped with her new husband Edward. He was soon 

appointed the British ambassador to Constantinople and after their 

departure she went on to be an eminent Georgian woman of letters. 

Today the house and its chequered marble floors are furnished with 

eighteenth-century antiques and – delightfully – it doubles as a hotel run 

by the Historic House Hotels group. There are ten bedrooms in the house 

itself, 16 in the adjoining eighteenth-century stable block courtyard and 

three cottages in the grounds. The hotel’s wood-panelled Oak Room is 

one of the most glamorous restaurants in the York area. 

middlethorpe.com 

à 


9 

For 

8BEST DISTILLERY 

SPIRIT OF YORKSHIRE 

Located in the village of Hunmanby, Spirit of 

Yorkshire is the county’s first whisky distillery. It 

produces a range of “Filey Bay” single malts whose 

label features a gannet for the simple reason that 

Britain’s biggest gannet sanctuary lies on the coast 

nearby. 

All the barley used in the distillation process here 

is grown on the farm of Tom Mellor, co-founder of 

Spirit of Yorkshire. The water, a crucial ingredient in 

any successful whisky, comes from a borehole on the 

farm that is sunk deep into chalky soil. The company 

even bottles on-site, allowing them to assert that the 

whole whisky process “from field to bottle” happens 

here in Hunmanby. 

One-hour distillery tours cost £12.50. There is 

also a longer brewery and distillery tour (£22) as 

Tom and his wife Gill also set up the nearby Wold 

Top Brewery. 

spiritofyorkshire.com 

more inspiration on visiting Yorkshire take 

a look at the Welcome to Yorkshire website: 

yorkshire.com 


BEST LITERARY PILGRIMAGE 

HAWORTH 

The Brontë Sisters lived and wrote most of their 

novels in the parsonage at Haworth, West Yorkshire. 

This interior of this building has been meticulously 

restored to how it looked when these three remarkable 

young women were publishing novels like Jane Eyre, 

Wuthering Heights and The Tenant of Wildfell Hall. 

Today the village is extremely picturesque and it’s 

difficult to believe that in the Brontës’ time it was one of 

the most polluted places in Britain – one of the reasons 

the sisters died so young. 

The Church of St Michael and All Angels, where 

Rev Brontë preached, still broods over High Street and 

the Black Bull, where his wayward son, Branwell drank 

away his talent, still stands nearby on Main Street. You 

can also see the Old School Room where the sisters 

taught and the Apothecary Shop where Branwell 

bought his opium. 

bronte.org.uk 

BEST PORT 

WHITBY 

Anyone who has read Dracula will know that the 

Transylvanian vampire arrived in Britain via the port 

of Whitby. It’s a suitably dramatic town with a ruined 

cliff-top abbey that has been home to several saints, 

with narrow streets of red pan-tiled houses below 

and a memorial to Captain James Cook which gazes 

romantically out to sea. Cook learned seamanship in 

Whitby where the harbour was always full of whaling 

ships, colliers and the herring fleet that contributed 

massively to the town’s prosperity. 

Fishing, supported by tourism, is still a mainstay of 

Whitby's economy and its harbour is sheltered by two 

Grade II listed piers, both with working lighthouses. 

The west lighthouse (1831) is 84 feet high and has a 

foghorn that sounds a blast every 30 seconds during 

reduced visibility at sea. This is a working harbour 

designed to protect fishermen whose lives depend on 

the often stormy North Sea. 

visitwhitby.com 

10 


Pictured: Tresco Sea 

Garden Cottages

48 HOURS IN... 

TRESCO 

AND BRYHER 

In search of an idyllic private island with magical charm, 

blessed with exotic plants, translucent seas and endless 

amounts of golden sand? Somewhere you can spend 

your days exploring ruined castles, discovering tales 

of shipwrecks, and enjoying the sounds of the ocean? 

Welcome to Scilly, Britain's very own Island treasure. 

Words | Jessica Way 

IT’S AS IF YOU’RE watching high-definition drone footage of the 

most beautiful sub-tropical paradise you could possibly imagine, 

mesmerised by the perfect aeriel view of an archipelago surrounded 

by turquoise ocean, outlined by craggy coastlines and white sandy 

bays. Waves lapping onto the shores and sweeping against the 

rocks, whipping up an effervescent trace of brilliant white as they break 

before they seemingly melt away again into the mica twinkling waters. 

It’s a satisfying contrast to watch - from the deep greens of the islands 

and the crisp whiteness of the waves to the contouring blue of the sea 

- the glistening sapphire in deeper waters, blending into a crystal-clear 

emerald in the shallows. 

à 


Pictured left-right: Jessica's daughter (Daisy)flying 

to Tresco with Penzance Helicopters; aerial view 

over Tresco Island; Tresco Cows; Tresco Ruins; Old 

Grimsby Quay; Sea Garden Cottage. 

THE FORTUNATE ISLES 

Classed as part of Cornwall, The Isles of Scilly (to 

include Tresco, Bryher, St Mary’s, St Agnes and St 

Martin's) might feel more like you’re abroad, but they 

are in fact the UK’s largest group of islands - and quite 

surprisingly - still one of Britain’s best-kept secrets. 

Bathed by the warming influence of the Gulf 

Stream, the temperature rarely dips below 5°C, and 

this balmy climate not only means it feels warmer than 

on Britain’s mainland but that plants flower here all 

year round. 

Described sometimes as 'The Fortunate Isles', the 

islands are a kaleidoscope of colour in both flora and 

fauna - a myriad of wildflowers, abundant wildlife, and 

palm trees apparent in every landscaped vista. 

We're flying by helicopter from Penzance to Tresco 

on a new 28-mile direct flight, taking just 15 minutes 

to reach utopia. From the air, the 140 specks of land, 

five of which are inhabited, look more like the tropics 

than the south of England. Beautiful enough to rival 

anywhere in the Caribbean, Scilly is every bit as 

dreamy, yet without the cars, the hurricane season 

or the need for passport control! There’s a sense of 

magic on these tranquil lands - a place where simple 

pleasures and outdoor adventures invigorate feelings 

of contentment, relaxation and a profound sense of 

wellbeing. So whether you’re an international globe 

trotter considering your first British staycation, or a 

hardened British Isles adventurer, I hope this account 

of 48 hours spent in paradise will inspire you to 

visit these remarkable islands and experience the 

enchantment for yourself. 


“ 

The Isles of Scilly are a 

kaleidoscope of colour in both flora 

and fauna - a myriad of wildflowers, 

abundant wildlife, and palm trees 

apparent in every landscaped 

vista. 

” 

In 2020 yet more fortune came Tresco's way with 

the launch of the long-awaited return of the Penzance 

to Isles of Scilly helicopter service. Not a small feat 

when you consider this is one of very few scheduled 

helicopter services across the entire world! 

Penzance Helicopters, following many years of 

hard work, is now running a service of up to 17 flights 

per day, six days a week, over 313 days a year to both 

Tresco and St Mary’s.. 

There is no better way to travel to this luxurious 

private island than to ‘do it in style’ aboard a state-ofthe-art 

AW139 helicopter flight across the Atlantic. 

The bird’s eye view from the sky, from the legendary 

St Michael’s Mount on departure to your very first 

glimpse of the Isles of Scilly and watching your pilot 

master a grand crescendo of a flawless landing, makes 

the journey of getting to Tresco now every bit as special 

as staying there. 

ARRIVING ON TRESCO 

Tresco is the Isles of Scilly's second-largest island, 

and the only island to be privately-owned, leased from 

the Duchy of Cornwall to the Dorrien-Smith family 

since 1834. From the moment you step foot on the 

island, you feel an incredibly warm welcome. 

There is a true sense of this being a family-run estate 

- home-from-home - you barely even need to say who 

you are, your luggage is lifted into your transfer buggy 

and you’re benevolently escorted to your cottage. 

We stayed in Driftwood, one of the Sea Garden 

Cottages situated on the east side of the island, and I 

couldn’t have imagined a more beautiful property as 

our island holiday home. Light flooded through the 

open plan living space, with a modern kitchen, beachydesigned 

lounge with beautiful Scilly artwork, exposed 

beams and log fireplace and a huge dining area with 

painted lobsters and mackerel dinner plates and floor 

à 


“ 

There is a true sense of this being 

a family-run estate - home-fromhome 

- you barely even need to 

say who you are, your luggage is 

lifted into your transfer buggy and 

you’re benevolently escorted to your 

cottage. 

” 

to ceiling views out to Old Grimsby harbour. 

When we visited Tresco a few years before we had 

stayed on the opposite west side of the island, in 

Flora, one of the beautiful Flying Boat Cottages - both 

properties are equally as luxurious, highly deserving of 

their 5-star status, and within footsteps of white sandy 

beaches with breathtaking views. 

The Flying Boat Cottages have the advantage of being 

directly alongside many local conveniences, from the 

local stores, Island office and bike hire, however, the 

Sea Garden Cottages on the quieter side of the island, 

with the beautiful beach bays, sailing school and Ruin 

Beach Cafe was my idea of complete heaven - almost 

unimaginably beautiful. 

Whichever side of the island you choose (there are 

also rooms and apartments ideal for shorter stays) 

all guests to the island are entitled to entry to Tresco 

Island Spa (which includes one outdoor and two indoor 

swimming pools) and the Abbey Garden. There’s also 

good wifi available throughout the island - especially 

useful for ordering deliveries from the Tresco Stores & Deli 

(a new service launched in 2020). 

The stores are a shop, bakery and delicatessen all 

in one - stocking everything from breakfast essentials, 

light snacks to pizzas and frozen Cook meals. There’s 

plenty of option of cereals, fresh bread, croissants, 

pastries, fruit, vegetables, meat, fish - as well as a 

fabulous selection of beers, wine and tasty treats! 

My husband pre-ordered from home before we set 

off and our shopping was in our cottage on our arrival. 

For top-ups throughout your stay as long as you make 

the order before 2pm Monday - Saturday they'll even 

deliver to you on the same day. 

Be sure to add some of Zoë's locally-made chocolate 

chip brownie slices to your order - they are heavenly! 


RUIN BEACH CAFÉ 

Once we had unpacked and settled in we strolled 

out of our back door and down our garden steps to 

arrive at the two AA Rosettes Ruin Beach Café. The 

café takes its name from the ruined smuggler’s cottage 

that forms part of its terrace, overlooking Raven’s 

Porth - but don’t be mistaken, it might be small but its 

Mediterranean-inspired menu far exceeds the selection 

of light meals and drinks you might imagine would be 

available from a beachside café. 

Serving lunch and dinner throughout the season, 

a visit here is one of the many highlights of Tresco. 

Famed for its pizzas, sharing boards, salads and 

chargrilled meat dishes, at the heart of the restaurant 

is the wood-fired oven, roasting fresh fish, chicken and 

vegetables - as well as producing delicious pizzas. 

The Ruin dinner menu features ‘catch of the day’ 

from local fishermen or, for another sea to fork delight, 

the seafood platter (to include Tresco gin cured sea 

trout and dressed Bryher crab) is an absolute must. 

If there’s any space for more, decadent desserts, 

including local Troytown Farm Ice Cream, become 

difficult to resist. 

DAY ONE 

We woke up to the sun rising over the Old Blockhouse 

lighting up the quay, and took a stroll by the water’s 

edge. For an endorphin boost like no other, we chose 

to take a dip in the ocean for a cold water swim. You 

will be likely to see at least one other islander doing the 

same, wild swimming is gaining in popularity across 

the UK, said to improve general health and wellbeing. 

It has been a treasured pastime for islanders and 

coastal lovers for generations, and I can see why so 

many add it into their daily routine, there’s really no 

better energiser for starting your day. 

You might find Tresco offers enough escapism 

purely from its idyllic landscape, but for even more 

natural healing you might choose (as I did with my 

Pictured left-right: Old Grimsby 

Harbour; Tresco Island Spa; 

Tresco Sea Garden Aerial view; 

Ruin Beach Café. 

daughter Daisy) to head to the new Flying Boat Yoga 

Studio with Gem Hansen, who lives on Bryher. Gem’s 

practice offers a balance of strength (sthira) and 

serenity (sukha) and uses visualisations and techniques 

inspired by Scilly’s scenery and natural surroundings. 

This includes visualising the breath as the ebb and 

flow of the tide, and honouring the mythic qualities of 

asana (poses) that were inspired by the islands and 

the environment, from the fearless lion to the reticent 

tortoise. 

For lunch we headed to The New Inn - Tresco’s 

authentic island pub. You can spend much of your 

holiday under the sense of having travelled to your very 

own private island, other than the odd encounter on a 

walk, meeting very few others during your stay - so it 

feels quite apparent that The New Inn has an important 

role to play. More than just a pub serving delicious 

food, this is the island's social heartbeat - a place for 

à 


Pictured left-right: The New Inn; 

Gallery Tresco; all other images 

Tresco Abbey Gardens. 

TRESCO ABBEY GARDEN 

Tresco Abbey Garden, built around the 12th-century 

ruins is home to a wonderful variety of sub-tropical 

species. Augustus Smith established the Abbey Garden 

in 1834 - he built up a collection of exotic plants from 

South Africa, Brazil and Mexico that thrived in the 

micro-climate - and the gardens have been lovingly 

tended by successive generations of the same family 

ever since. 

There’s not a bad time of the year to visit - thanks 

to the balmy weather plants flower in Tresco all year 

round. Visit in the spring to see flowers blooming weeks 

islanders in need of some good conversation and time 

to catch up with friends. 

As a holidaymaker, you are made to feel every bit 

as welcome as the locals, the atmosphere is warm and 

inviting with genuine wreck wood and marine relics 

adorning the ceilings, beams and walls. They serve 

traditional pub fare from crispy whitebait and dressed 

Bryher crab to traditional cottage pie, using locally 

grown, reared and landed produce. 

There’s also a sheltered terrace decorated with 

candlelight and fairy lights, and occasionally live music 

- an opportunity for visitors and locals to dance the 

night away under the stars! 

We popped into the gallery next door - formerly 

the pilot gig shed, the Gallery Tresco hosts art by some 

of Cornwall's most established artists, as well as a 

selection of unique giftware inspired by the islands. We 

then continued our stroll south to Tresco Abbey Gardens, 

turning left along Abbey Drive for a river walk (or head 

straight onto Appletree Road passing Appletree Bay). 


“ 

Visit in the spring to see flowers 

blooming, and in the autumn, 

beautiful reds, golds and ambers 

contrast with the magnificent 

proteas, aloes and camellias. 

” 

ahead of those on the mainland, and in the autumn to 

see beautiful reds, golds and ambers contrast with the 

magnificent proteas, aloes and camellias - even during 

the winter solstice, there are usually more than 300 

species of plant in flower! 

A tradition dating back 150 years, there is a flower 

count to see how many different species are in bloom 

conducted by the team of gardeners in the first week of 

every new year - the record is 313 in 2017. 

Tresco Abbey Garden is one of the main attractions 

in the Isles of Scilly, there are daily tripper boats from 

the neighbouring islands of St Mary’s, Bryher and St 

Martin’s, and regular trips from St Agnes, but if you’re 

lucky it is not unusual, especially at either end of the 

season, to visit at a time when you have the gardens 

almost entirely to yourself. Luckily for us it was one of 

those occasions. 

We had fun looking out for red squirrels as we 

roamed the garden's criss-cross paths through 

towering palms and giant trees, admiring the great 

blue spires of Echium and shocking-pink drifts of 

Pelargonium. Don’t miss the fascinating Valhalla 

Museum – a collection of figureheads collected from 

shipwrecks around the islands - and take a pit stop at 

the Garden Cafe for a coffee and cake - there’s a wellstocked 

gift shop and an interesting exhibition telling 

the history of the Abbey Garden. 

We fancied a movie night in, so were delighted to 

discover a good selection of DVDs available to rent 

from the Tresco Stores on the way back to our cottage, 

(alternatively, there’s the option to log into Netflix from 

your cottage). Walking back to Old Grimsby Quay we 

passed St Nicholas’ Church and the primary school before 

stopping in at Lucy-Tania, Tresco’s boutique and sewing 

studio. 

à 


“ 

You can clearly see Bryher across 

the azure waters - in fact, it is so close 

to Tresco that if you are lucky enough 

to visit during dramatic spring tides 

the channel between the islands 

becomes dry enough to cross on 

foot. 

” 

There’s a luxe selection of island-inspired homeware, 

swimwear, jewellery and more - and I couldn’t resist 

buying a navy blue Tresco branded hoodie and Lobster 

embroidered cap. 

Back at our cottage it was time for dinner, a movie, 

and playing a family game of Catchphrase (the board 

game version) in front of the log burner before falling 

asleep to the sounds of the ocean. 

DAY TWO 

Tresco is a world away from the hustle and bustle of 

the British mainland - with no cars on the island you are 

not only filling your lungs with pure coastal air, instead 

of breathing in fumes, you are naturally exercising more, 

taking your bike or walking whenever you leave the 

front door. It doesn’t take very long before you feel the 

positive effects of this - and from the time spent outdoors 

connecting with the beautiful landscape. 

For me, this happened on day two. I woke up glowing 

and feeling more vitalised than usual. I had a Kundalini 

Back Therapy massage booked at the Island Spa and 

remember wondering if I even needed it! 

As it turned out it though, I did - I felt the tension 

in my computer tight shoulders being released and 

my body felt more balanced. It was wonderful - and 

thanks to Ila Spa the delightful scent stayed with me 

throughout the rest of the day. 

From the spa it is just a short walk to New Grimsby 

Quay - our departure point for visiting the neighbour 

island, Bryher. You can clearly see Bryher across the 

azure waters - in fact, it is so close to Tresco that if you 

are lucky enough to visit during dramatic spring tides, 

(when lunar forces combine) the channel between the 

islands can become dry enough to cross on foot. As 

such, every year the islanders (never ones to pass up an 

opportunity for a shindig!) prepare for a mid-channel 

mini-festival, low-tide event. This involves teams from 

Tresco and Hell Bay setting up benches, bar and 

firepits on a long sandbar between the islands - then as 

the water recedes further the celebrations begin with a 


Pictured left: Jessica in Old 

Grimsby Harbour; Bryher. 

below: Island Fish café and fresh 

fish private orders and deliveries. 

host of impromptu games, live music, food and drink. 

Thankfully for the other 362 days of the year, regular 

services by Tresco Boat Services will get you there safely 

instead! Weather permitting of course. 

It was a very pleasant 10-minute inter-island boat 

trip across to Bryher. Remember to listen out to hear 

the scheduled return times on landing - and whether 

it is the new Anneka's Quay (named after Anneka Rice 

who managed to build it in less than 4 days) or Church 

Quay (inaccessible at low tide). 

We stepped out onto one of Bryher's white sandy 

beach bays. Although smaller, it very much resembled 

those on Tresco. The island is smaller in general, 

around one kilometer wide and two kilometers in 

length - home to 80 residents - you can easily walk it in 

a day or spend an afternoon enjoying the highlights. 

An island of dramatic contrast - Bryher is pounded 

by Atlantic waves on one side, yet blessed with calm 

sandy beaches on the other. You might recognise 

it from the movies as Bryher was also the setting of 

the film, "When the Whales Came", based on Michael 

Morpurgo's novel inspired by the island. (Samson Hill 

on the southern end of the island was the site of the 

birdman's cottage). 

We enjoyed meandering our way around, walking 

past the dotted stalls selling fresh produce including 

farm eggs, local vegetables, freshly-landed seafood 

and mouth-watering island fudge. It is all so pretty, a 

picture-perfect postcard at every turn - you do feel as 

though you are wandering through a movie set. 

Lending itself to a real ‘Swallows and Amazons’ 

style adventure you can choose to spend your time in 

Bryher exploring rocky coves, relaxing on white sandy 

beaches or hiking up one of its small granite hills for 

some great views. 

An absolute must for us was watching the Atlantic 

rollers thunder into Hell Bay (especially spectacular in 

the winter!) and we also enjoyed the calm tranquillity 

of Rushy Bay overlooking Samson. 

There are a number of restaurants, bars and cafés 

located around the island. Stepping off at Bryher 

Boatyard we first stumbled upon Island Fish, owned by 

the Penders - a traditional fishing family who go back 

generations on Scilly. You won’t find a better crab 

roll or lobster salad than here, and they have a great 

selection of coffee and cakes with the most picturesque 

immaculate lawn, where beautiful birds dart about, 

from which to enjoy it. 

Also, good to know is that while they supply to local 

hotels and pubs they also take private orders (delivered 

within 24 hours notice) so you can enjoy fresh shellfish 

while on holiday from the comfort of your own cottage. 

à 


the freshest island produce. Islanders and visitors 

journey from across the islands to dine here. Think 

dishes like tender Hell Bay gin cured salmon, succulent 

roast partridge, pan roasted sea bass and Richard's 

sensational tangy lemon meringue pie. 

Order the oysters - they were by far the best 

I have ever had. By evening, you can dine in the 

contemporary yet intimate Czar restaurant - named 

after one of the islands historic island pilot gigs - and 

lap up the views as the sun sets over Gweal Hill and 

dips into the Atlantic. 

Following our lunch we continued south along 

the coast and stumbled upon Golden Eagle Studio - a 

gig shed transformed into a studio and gallery for 

local artist Richard Pearce. You can step out from the 

gallery and look out across the exact view of one of his 

paintings. His artwork is mostly of Tresco and Bryher 

and is incredibly beautiful, capturing the Scilly spirit so 

perfectly. 

From here you can choose to continue around 

the south of Bryher, passing Droppy Nose Point and 

watching seals swimming off the rocks while dipping 

your toes in the white sands of Rushy Bay. Take a walk 

Pictured above: Hell Bay Hotel. Left-right: Jessica 

visits Golden Eagle Studio; walking towards Droppy 

Nose Point; Byrher and Tresco from the water; views 

from Samson Hill. 

Next we made our way up the hill passing Olivia's 

Kitchen at the Vine, a small, family-run café situated in 

“the Town'' in what was originally a flower and bulb 

shed (previously Vine Café) serving sumptuous lunches 

and suppers, light snacks and cream teas. 

A must here is the Scillonian tattie cake - it is so 

good you might want to buy some to take home too! 

We passed the Bryher Shop and Post Office before 

taking Newton Road on our right. We followed this for 

a few hundred yards before reaching the luxurious Hell 

Bay Hotel - Scilly's highest-rated restaurant, with a 3 

AA Rosette rating and open to non-residents to enjoy. 

HELL BAY HOTEL 

At the helm is Head Chef Richard Kearsley - known 

for serving the finest food on the islands, using only 


“ 

Continue around the south of Bryher, 

passing Droppy Nose Point and 

watching seals swimming off the rocks 

while dipping your toes in the white 

sands of Rushy Bay. 

” 

up to the summit of Samson Hill where the views are 

sensational – or head to the rugged north of the island 

towards Fraggle Rock, one of Britain's smallest bars, 

overlooking Hangman's Island, famous for their Friday 

Fish & Chip night. Feeling somewhat ambitious and in 

awe of the island we opted to take the later ferry back 

so we were (just about) able to experience all three. 

SCINTILLATING SCILLY 

Once you have stepped foot on the white sandy 

shores of the Isles of Scilly it has an incredible way of 

capturing your heart - offering a notion of escapism 

to rival that of any coastal destination on mainland 

Britain. I was so smitten three years ago I choose to get 

married on Scilly – and visiting for the second time, I 

was surprised to discover that there was yet even more 

to love. 

It is no surprise the same guests visit year after year 

– and Tresco’s successful Islandshares is testament 

to this. Often passed down from generation to 

generation the scheme offers families the chance 

to become owners of their very own week, in their 

favourite cottage, for up to 40 years. 

Closing my eyes to remember the views, I will 

regularly take myself back there – always dreaming 

about my next visit to this incredible destination – this 

is a holiday that just can’t come again soon enough. 

Now where did I put the Islandshares listings again? 

On the way to Fraggle Rock we passed Mike and 

Sue Pender’s honesty stall in front of their house, selling 

a broad range of herbs, fruits, eggs and vegetables. 

Our final stop was at Veronica Farm’s fudge stall for a 

bag of delicious homemade fudge. 

Jessica was a guest staying on Tresco Island tresco.co.uk 

Travel by train with Great Western Railway from London 

Paddington to Penzance Station with advance one-way 

tickets starting at £26.20 gwr.com. 

Flights with Penzance Helicopters start from £130 per person 

one-way penzancehelicopters.co.uk 

Prices to stay at Hell Bay Hotel, Bryher start at £95 per 

person per night (based on two sharing) on a bed and 

breakfast basis hellbay.co.uk 


THE RISE OF SOMERSET’S ... 

FOOD 

AND DRINK 

A visit to the pastoral landscapes of Somerset can 

both soothe the soul and nourish the palate. But this 

south-west English county is not merely the home of 

Cheddar Cheese or ancient apple orchards, 

Somerset’s epicurean delights are in abundance 

Words | Karyn Noble 

©VISITBRITAIN/ BEN SELWAY 

I’M STARING AT A LAMINATED newspaper clipping of Prince 

Harry and Meghan Markle’s Royal Wedding menu, pinned with 

two gold thumb tacks to a pole. Amid the usual suspects – beef 

from Prince Charles’ Duchy organic farm, Scottish trout roe – 

someone has neatly circled ’10-year-old Somerset cider brandy’ 

from the short ‘Wines, Beers & Liqueurs’ listing in blue pen. I suspect 

that someone is hovering over my shoulder. ‘They might have chosen 

it because they thought it was jolly good stuff,’ says Somerset Cider 

Brandy founder Julian Temperley, ‘Or they may have chosen it 

because the label matches the good prince’s hair colour. Anyway, it’s 

a song that we’ll sing for a very long time.’ After tasting said brandy, 

I’m inclined to agree with Temperley’s first opinion: it’s jolly good stuff. 

à 


Unlike most people packing their Wellington boots for 

Somerset’s famed Glastonbury festival, I’m stomping about 

in mine in apple orchards. In distilleries. On dairy farms. In 

cheese rooms. In smokeries. Even around an organic spelt and 

walnut farm. While the Glastonbury festival may be uncertain 

again due to pandemic concerns, the real showstopper for 

anyone considering an extended road trip is Somerset’s 

permanent food and drink line-up. 

The small radius of extraordinarily high-quality producers 

has a lot to do with this south-west county’s geography. Over at 

Thatchers Cider, which has been a commercial cider business since 

1904, chief cidermaker Richard Johnson points out the Mendip 

Hills around us at Myrtle Farm: ‘They were produced hundreds of 

millions of years ago when Africa crashed into Europe and pushed 

Britain up out of the water. At the time we were under water here. 

The Mendip Hills are limestone, so for millions of years all that 

limestone was under the sea and when it was pushed up out of the 

water, all its microscopic sea creatures were pushed into the valleys, 

so we have really deep, rich, mineral soil, which provides really 

good nutrients.’ Combined with the temperate climate this close to 

the sea, it makes the west of England an excellent spot for growing 

apples, which is why you’ll find most of Britain’s cider makers here. 

But Somerset’s not just about the cider. I emerge from Brown 

& Forrest Smokery in Langport as aromatic as a blazing wood 

bonfire, but I’ve tasted some of the best smoked meat and fish of 

my life here. ‘I’m only interested in the best quality I can find,’ says 

owner Jesse Pattisson, who supplies the likes of chefs Mitch Tonks 

Don’t Miss: Porlock Bay 

Oysters 

Porlock Bay, on the Exmoor 

coast, produces oysters that 

are akin to France’s Speciale 

de Claire or Fine de Claire in 

terms of quality. Benefitting 

from one of the highest 

tidal ranges in the world 

(second only to Canada) 

and Grade-A water quality, 

Porlock Bay oysters are 

sought after by some of 

the top chefs in Britain, not 

just for the pure taste but 

because, unusually, they’re 

available year-round. 

porlockbayoysters.co.uk 


©VISITBRITAIN/ BEN SELWAY 

IMAGES ABOVE: SHEEP 

GRAZING AT SOMERSET 

CIDER BRANDY FARM; 

COUPLE, SITTING AT 

A TABLE OUTSIDE A 

SOMERSET PUB, HAVING 

DRINKS AND A MEAL. 

IMAGES LEFT: APPLES 

IN THATCHERS CIDER 

ORCHARD; YEO VALLEY 

FARM YOGHURTS 

“ 

Forget Glastonbury festival, 

I’m here in my wellies to stomp 

about in apple orchards. In 

distilleries. On dairy farms. In 

cheese rooms. In smokeries. 

” 

and Nathan Outlaw with bespoke smoked 

produce, as well as restaurant chain Hawksmoor 

and Fortnum & Mason. You won’t find Brown 

& Forrest produce in supermarkets either, which 

is reason enough to make the trip to the redchecked 

tableclothed restaurant here (closed 

during lockdown, though the shop remains 

open) to indulge. ‘Ninety per cent of my stuff 

comes from within 20 miles of here,’ says Jesse, 

as we survey the rain-spattered, glowing-green 

landscape. ‘Somerset grows great grass and that 

makes great milk and that makes great cheese. 

It’s not rocket science.’ 

‘Somerset is fantastic for grass,’ echoes Tim 

Mead, CEO of Yeo Valley Organic Farm, which 

has been making yoghurt since 1969 but decided 

to back organic farming 20 years ago and now 

has 1800 employees. Unlike Brown & Forrest, 

Yeo Valley’s wide range of dairy products 

is available in supermarkets across 

Britain, and they have a cafe in Somerset’s 

Blagdon, as well as one in London’s 

Bayswater that serve breakfasts and 

brunches, both of which will open again 

when COVID-19 restrictions allow. 

It’s a slick operation. At the quirkily 

decorated Blagdon outlet, there’s 

even a dedicated space for their food 

ambassador (chef Paul Collins) to do 

regular cooking demonstrations, and they 

also hold a festival (Valley Fest) at the 

end of July that attracts 50,000 visitors 

annually, with the hope to run it in a 

socially distanced manner in 2021. 

‘Today we have over 100 dairy farmers 

from the southwest supplying the Yeo 

Valley dairies,’ says Tim, ‘We’ve got two 

dairy farms of our own and we buy milk 

from another 100 dairy farms, and the 

total organic milk produced in the UK is 

about 5% and we’ve set ourselves a life 

goal of 10%. That’s just a big enough 

à 


IMAGES LEFT: COUPLE 

ENJOY THE SOMERSET 

COUNTRYSIDE; 

CHEDDAR GORGE 

AND CAVES; CHEDDAR 

CHEESE; CHEDDAR 

VILLAGE. IMAGES 

RIGHT: FOUNDER OF 

MULBERRY, ROGER 

SAUL: SPELT AND 

GRAIN PRODUCED 

ON SHARPHAM PARK 

FARM; THE ORIGINAL 

CHEDDAR CHEESE 

COMPANY 

©VISITBRITAIN/BEN SELWAY/©NICKSMITHPHOTOGRAPHY.COM 

sector that we don’t lose all the knowledge and consumers 

now have an option to not have factory-farmed milk.’ 

True dairy aficionados shouldn’t pass up the opportunity 

to sample cheddar cheese in the Somerset village of 

Cheddar and from the world’s only cheesemaker that 

matures some of it in the caves of Cheddar Gorge itself. ‘It’s 

traditional cheddar cheese made by hand,’ says Katherine 

Spencer who, along with partner John, took over the small 

business when it was in decline in 2003 and turned it into 

the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company. ‘We only make 

between six and nine cheeses every day. It’s small batch, 

it’s very much an artisan process.’ Cheese products and 

accessories can be purchased on-line during COVID-19 

restrictions, but when the shop re-opens, visitors can also 

watch the cheese being made from a viewing gallery. 

But the most overachieving small producer I meet is 

Roger Saul. The former founder of the Mulberry designer 

label was born in Somerset, and after leaving the fashion 

world in 2003 he bought a farm here and started growing 

spelt. ‘It was a rundown dairy farm that came up for sale for 

the first time in 100 years,’ he says, still impeccably attired 

as we jolt around the Sharpham Park estate in a buggy (he 

also used to be a racing car driver!) as his herd of red deer 

frolic below Glastonbury Tor. ‘It was just as organic farming 

was really coming back in. Food was the new fashion. So, 

I literally jumped out of fashion to being back in fashion by 

being in food. And nobody was growing spelt in the UK. 

There were millers milling it but no one was actually 

growing it seriously.’ Saul’s farm produces not just an 

astounding range of spelt products (flour, bread, muesli, 


“ 

The most overachieving small 

producer I meet is Roger Saul - 

former founder of the Mulberry 

designer label... born in Somerset 

” 

porridge) that are stone-ground in the traditional way, 

but organic venison and walnuts (‘With 300 trees, we’re 

the biggest organic walnut farm in the country, if there 

are any other organic, because it takes so long’). 

And while the 300-acre Sharpham Park isn’t open 

to the public, its organic produce is sold at Waitrose 

and Sainsbury’s supermarkets or, when freedoms allow, 

can be enjoyed close to the source at the Sharpham 

Pantry Restaurant or Harlequin Café in Kilver Court, 

essentially a designer village that Saul founded on the 

edge of Shepton Mallet in 2011. For a British organic food 

trailblazer, he’s remarkably humble. ‘Provenance, I think, 

today couldn’t be more important,’ he says as we lunch 

on his spelt pasta range,’ And we always want to know 

where our food comes from. And if it’s organic, from my 

perspective, it’s 100 times better for you. 

WHERE TO VISIT 

– 

SOMERSET CIDER BRANDY 

somersetciderbrandy.com 

– 

THATCHERS CIDER 

thatcherscider.co.uk 

– 

BROWN & FORREST SMOKERY 

brownandforrest.co.uk 

– 

YEO VALLEY ORGANIC FARM CAFÉ 

yeovalley.co.uk/come-and-visit-us 

– 

CHEDDAR GORGE CHEESE COMPANY 

cheddaronline.co.uk 

– 

SHARPHAM PANTRY RESTAURANT 

kilvercourt.com/cafe-and-restaurant/ 

sharpham-restaurant 

HARLEQUIN CAFÉ 

kilvercourt.com/cafe-and-restaurant 

/local-cafe 

It is a 90-minute train journey from London’s Paddington 

Station to Somerset (Bath) with Great Western Railway. 

Fly into Bristol or Exeter airport or take the M5 motorway. 

visitsomerset.co.uk greatwestway.co.uk 


10BOUTIQUE 

OF THE BEST 

STAYS 

1 

AULINN, ISLE OF SKYE 

Anyone who stays at this cute hideaway for couples must feel as if they’ve 

bagged front row seats for one of the best natural shows on earth. The views from 

the terrace, hot tub and all the windows are nothing short of spectacular – with 

the sea mere metres away, fringed by misty mountains. This area is rich in wildlife, 

too, with a RSPB otter hide nearby. The building is a simple croft turned sumptuous, 

with light-filled rooms, cosy textiles, a slick modern bathroom. There’s a wooden 

swing bench on the terrace where you can enjoy special moments – from morning 

coffee watching the day unfold, to wrapping up to stargaze as darkness falls. Outside 

are three acres of your own grounds to roam. Or get out and explore Skye’s amazing 

scenery. Take a dip in the sea or in the crystal clear Fairy Pools. Tramp around the 

crags and pinnacles of the Quiraing or up the Old Man of Storr. Hop on a boat to go spot 

sea eagles and whales. In between, dine out in some of Skye’s excellent restaurants 

– indeed people cross continents to dine at the legendary Three Chimneys. Bring the 

credit card! Prices from £1,352 for a long weekend or mid week break. ◆ 

boutique-retreats.co.uk 


Some fabulous 

self-catering properties 

have opened around the 

UK during lockdown – all 

offering privacy, space 

and inspiring locations. 

Just what we all need! 

Words | Emma O'Reilly 

3 

CLIFFTOPS, DORSET 

The Isle of Portland is joined to the rest of Dorset by the 

shingle barrier of Chesil Beach. Most visitors bomb 

straight to Portland Bill, the famous lighthouse. There’s 

much more to see. Clifftops, a new venture at the 

Pennsylvania Castle Estate is a good base from which to explore 

it. Five sleek looking lodges, each sleeping four, are carved into the 

cliffs – made from the local Portland stone, then clad in copper, 

designed to weather and blend into their environment. Each 

provides sparkling views over the English Channel, best seen from 

the terrace. Thoughtful planting of indigenous flora attracts birds 

and butterflies. The rooms are sexy and simple, with blonde woods, 

neutral furnishings and big windows – it’s all about the view! It’s a 

mere totter down to tiny, secret Church Ope Cove for a swim. 

Or get out and see the rest of the island – from Portland Castle, 

built by King Henry VIII, and with an interesting war-time history to 

The Tour Quarry Sculpture Park, set in a disused quarry and used as 

a vast outdoor studio by artists. Chesil Beach is wild and windswept 

– good for long walks and wildlife spotting. Lodges priced from 

around £585 for a three-night stay. ◆ 

thepennestate.co.uk/the-estate/clifftops 

2SANDYBURY BARN, SHROPSHIRE 

This big, modern rustic barn sleeps up to seven across its four 

bedrooms. Double height windows and open plan spaces 

mean plenty of room to spread out. Speaking of space, there 

are no less than 3000 acres literally on the doorstep. The barn is on 

the Dudmaston Estate. Bring your bike and cycle, or walk, through 

the parkland and woodland paths, past lakes and babbling brooks. 

Dudmaston House is a very pleasing rainy-day option. It’s been lived 

in by one family, inherited through birth and marriage, for 875 years 

and, for a stately home, it has a surprisingly homely feel. It would be 

easy to spend a break here and go nowhere else, but it would be a 

shame to miss out on the bucolic scenery of Shropshire – the beauty 

spots of Long Mynd and Wenlock Edge are both just a short drive 

away. Prices from £975 for a three night stay. ◆ 

nationaltrust.org.uk/holidays 

à 


4 

EDITOR'S CHOICE 

FRITTON LAKE, 

NORTH NORFOLK 

Fritton Lake, set in 250 acres of mature woodland 

with stunning views of the open countryside and one of the 

most beautiful lakes in East Anglia, has recently completed its 

luxury refurbishment to include a new outdoor heated swimming 

pool, tennis courts, children’s adventure trail and other outdoor 

games. Since the coronavirus pandemic has left us all searching 

for ways to live a healthier lifestyle, thinking more about our 

happiness and wellbeing, the timing of this, along with the 

launch of their new luxury holiday lodges, couldn’t be better. 

This simple peaceful retreat offers the perfect setting in which 

to reconnect with nature and de-stress from the modern world. 

It’s a members club, with 100% self-owned lodges located in 

fields and woods around the tranquil grounds, all within a few 

minute’s reach of the lake. Some of the property owners rent out 

their properties for holiday-goers while others enjoy the facilities 

around their second-home, retreating to them whenever they get 

BRITISH 

TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

LOVES 

2021 


EDITOR'S HIGHLIGHTS 

ENJOYING THE LAKE 

The lake is the heartbeat of Fritton Lake - In 

addition to the main resort hub, watersports and 

open water swimming clubs, the weekly classes 

including trail running, dancercise and yoga also 

take advantage of the beautiful views. 

SOMERLEYTON HALL 

Fritton Lake sits as part of the Somerleyton country 

estate, and Somerleyton Hall and Gardens are 

just under four miles away. One of the great 

Victorian country houses surrounded by 12 acres 

of arboretum and formal gardens, including 

Nesfield’s famous maze and finely restored 

parterre. Enjoy cream teas and charming guides. 

CLAY AND GRASS COURT TENNIS 

The club has four tennis courts, a pair of lawn 

tennis courts, and two clay, one of which is a new 

‘all-weather clay’ allowing for year-round play. 

Tennis coaching is also available. 

the chance (out of lockdown!). In the centre there’s a charming pub, 

The Fritton Arms, with eight beautiful guest rooms, serving also as the 

resort club house exclusively for members and guests. 

Think locally sourced seasonal menus, roaring fires, wooden beams, 

deep sofas and pretty fairy lights in the courtyard garden – a beautiful 

spot to dine alfresco and enjoy as the sun is setting. Adventures can 

be found in the nature and on the lake, to include wild swimming, trail 

running, yoga, canoeing, rowing and even Croquet – but most of all 

Fritton Lake is a place to relax, to enjoy the peace and quiet and great 

local food – to sit and read a book or take a gentle stroll along the lake 

and replenish your sense of wellbeing. Cabins are priced from £647 off 

season and £1734 peak season for a 3/4 night stay. Rooms for B&B at 

The Fritton Arms are priced from £140 per night all season ◆ 

frittonlake.co.uk 

PONIES ARE WELCOME! 

Formerly a farmstead, Fritton Lake is blessed with 

wonderful stables. For a small extra charge you 

can bring your pony on holiday and either enjoy a 

guided ride around the lakeside woodland or brush 

up on your show-jumping and dressage. 

VINEYARD AND BREWERY TOURS 

Discover more about the emerging food and drink 

scene in the Wild East of England by joining a tour 

with a selection of local breweries and vineyards to 

hear from passionate owners and to taste fantastic 

locally sourced produce. 

à 


5 

WILD ESCAPES, HAMPSHIRE 

Treehouses just went up a notch! These five snazzy little numbers 

by Wild Escapes are the first ever to be built on a UK vineyard. So, as 

guests, it would surely be rude not to lie in your outdoor bath, a glass 

of (ultra local!) Black Chalk wine in hand. If you like it, organise a vineyard 

tour and tasting with lunch (truffle hunts in late Autumn too). Each of the 

four treehouses sleeps a couple (two can take a further two adults) and 

is slightly different but they all have an ultra large outdoor bath, outdoor 

and indoor showers, a loo, kitchen, wood burner and electric heating and 

lighting. You can still say you’re camping though, right? The local town, 

Stockbridge, has plenty to divert – independent shops, tea rooms, pubs and 

restaurants, galleries and gift shops. Danebury Hill Fort, Houghton Lodge 

Gardens, and the Museum of Army Flying at Middle Wallop are also nearby. 

But you’ll probably want to spend most of your time hiding away in your 

beautiful bolthole. Prices from £280 per night for 2 adults. ◆ 

canopyandstars.co.uk 

6THE LAVENDER SHACK, SUFFOLK 

This bijou barn conversion for two is a delight – all vaulted ceilings 

and restful Scandi chic interiors. It sits in deep countryside on the 

Suffolk/Norfolk border, just a half hour or so from the Suffolk coast 

(and under an hour from the beaches of Norfolk). On warm days 

bifold doors can be flung open, with views of woodland and flowers - the 

florist owner’s cutting garden is here. In cooler weather there’s underfloor 

heating and a wood burner to keep things cosy. The little details have 

been thought out – like a super king size bed, a second smart TV in the 

bedroom, a Lavazza coffee machine and an electric car charging point 

outside. Close by is the village of Broome, with its dog-friendly pub. Also 

minutes away is paddle boarding and canoeing on the River Waveney and 

Beccles, gateway to the Norfolk Broads from where you can spend time 

messing about in boats. Prices from £391 for a midweek stay. ◆ 

norfolkhideaways.co.uk 


7 

LITTLE RED LOCK, 

THE COTSWOLDS 

A kind of alchemy happens when city folk fall in love and up sticks from 

the city in search of a secret country bolthole. Filled to the beams with 

English eccentricity and encircled by a wooden picket fence, this unique 

canal-side home near Banbury in the Cotswolds is a perfect example. 

Little Red Lock's waterfront setting on the Oxford canal oozes tranquillity, 

while inside its brick walls, a carnival-like celebration of eclectic rustic 

charm awaits. In true English country home style, copper pans hang 

above a clotted cream coloured Aga and heavy curtains frame bucolic 

views as far as the eye can see. Mornings are best spent plotting the 

day's adventures with a generous breakfast spread laid out on the picnic 

table by the water's edge; the mooing cows or odd passing narrowboat 

your only neighbours. The market town of Banbury (six miles south) is a 

higgledy-piggledy affair with narrow alleyways and independent shops. 

Sleeps 6, prices from £1,950 per week, £1,495 per short break ◆ 

uniquehomestays.com 

8 

TREGONCE FARMHOUSE, 

CORNWALL 

Relax, unwind and reconnect in this beautiful Grade II Listed 

stone built farmhouse with breathtaking views across the North 

Cornish coast. From your holiday door it is a short walk down to the 

banks of the Camel Estuary and along the Camel Trail into Padstow 

where Michelin starred restaurants, artisan shops and cool cafes blend 

beautifully with the Cornish harbour life. Take a trip around the bay at 

high speed, hop aboard the Padstow to Rock Ferry, stop for a local ale 

and crab sandwich and simply immerse yourself in the beauty of this 

wonderful coastal town. Join the South West Coast path from Padstow to 

the dramatic high cliffs, across golden sand beaches and across stunning 

headlands. Hit the waves at nearby Harlyn Bay or Trevone, stretch 

out across the beach at Constantine and Treyarnon Bay and find your 

favourite corner of this magical corner of Cornwall. Sleeps 7. 

Prices from £1620 (3 nights) and £2025 (7 nights). ◆ 

cornishgems.com 


9 

THE WELLS GLAMPING, 

HEREFORDSHIRE 

With most events cancelled for the foreseeable, what to do with all 

those trendy Airstream trailers used for housing pop stars and festival 

goers? Well that’s exactly what the team at The Wells Glamping thought. 

They’re keeping five of them busy in two big, peaceful (ie. minus the loud music!) 

meadows in Herefordshire. Each sleeps 2-5 guests with everything needed within 

– kitchens, beds, shower rooms and loos. Outside are picnic tables, and firepits 

and hot tubs are available to hire if you want them, too. Within a 20-minute 

drive of the site are plenty of sightseeing options – from the National Trust’s 

Brockhampton Estate to the Malvern Hills for walking and the city of Hereford, 

whose cathedral is home to the Mappa Mundi. Herefordshire is a delight to drive 

around, with the 40-mile ‘Black and White Village Trail’ brimming with pretty 

timbered and half timbered houses, orchards and hop fields. Prices on request. ◆ 

thewellsglamping.co.uk 

10National Park. It’s an area jam packed with amazing beaches – with more 

GRANAR TREHILYN, PEMBROKESHIRE 

Stunning location, stunning house…what more could one ask for? 

Strumble Head is a rocky headland and lighthouse (and excellent 

place to view dolphins, grey seals, even orcas) in the Pembrokeshire Coast 

Blue Flags than anywhere in the UK. Just a short walk away from it all is this 

former stone granary, once used to store grain or feed. The house has been 

lovingly converted by comedian Griff Rhys Jones and his designer son, and is 

part of the family’s 70 acre Trehilyn Estate - the restoration of the farm was seen 

in BBC series ‘A Pembrokeshire Farm. Prices from £564 for a midweek stay. ◆ 

underthethatch.co.uk/granart 


BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 08 

ACROSS 

1 Pulled over (7) 

5 Saucer study (7) 

9 Urbane (6) 

10 Sidmouth's cliffs are from this 

period (8) 

11 Loch Ness castle (8) 

12 Avaricious (6) 

13 Advocates (10) 

15 --- Thames, an historic street 

next to Tower Bridge (4) 

16 Parliamentary productions (4) 

18 In a unified manner (10) 

21 Burns brightly (6) 

22 Rebelled at sea (8) 

24 The Granite City (8) 

25 William III's favourite fruit? (6) 

26 Annie and Oliver Twist (7) 

27 Secreted (7) 

DOWN 

2 Devon/Cornwall border river (5) 

3 Scandalous affair of the early 

1960s (7) 

4 Mountainous gardens near 

Faversham, Kent? (7) 

6 Cold spots (7) 

7 Flat fillers (7) 

8 Ceremonial centre of the City of 

London (9) 

10 Egyptian subject of a permanent 

exhibition in Dorchester (11) 

14 Vale of Avalon brand? (9) 

17 Cumbrian stately home (7) 

18 Artificial reservoir (7) 

19 So Titus, drunk, doesn't dance 

(4,3) 

20 Roman sackers (7) 

23 Caernarfon Castle's most 

impressive tower (5) 

The first correct crossword received will be rewarded with a free gift from 

The Travelling Reader. Simply send your completed crossword (or the answers) 

with your choice of The Original, The London, or Simply British Tastes box, 

(thetravellingreader.com) and your postal address, by post to British Travel 

Journal, Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, Southampton, Hampshire, 

SO31 9HP, or email the answers to crossword@britishtraveljournal.com 

Answers will be printed in the Summer Issue out 4 June 

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 07 | AUTUMN/WINTER 2020 

ACROSS: 8 Oil palm 9 Yule log 10 Napoleon 11 Missus 12 Aintree 13 

Orcombe 14 L S Ts 17 Etive 19 Sham 23 Thrones 24 Cuillin 25 Glasto 26 

Romancer 27 Ingrate 28 Islands DOWN: 1 Cornwall 2 Slip knot 3 Sailors 4 

Immodest 5 Submerge 6 Tensions 7 Columbia 15 St Helena 16 Scousers 17 

Eyemouth 18 Victoria 20 Holocene 21 Montrose 22 Sizable. 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

Books, apps, travel gadgets and crossword 

W E LOVE 

THE FLIGHTLESS 

TRAVELLER 

Trips that can be made via land or sea 

ensuring greener, more sustainable journeys. 

Includes Scotland’s western isles, Dublin and 

Galway, Bristol, Wales Coast Path, West 

Highland Way and County Wicklow. £22 

waterstones.com 


SAMSONITE KONNECT 

BACKPACK 

The Samsonite Konnect-i slimline Backpack 

seamlessly connects with your mobile via a 

tag that tucks into the strap, allowing you to 

accept calls, hear text messages and play 

music with just one touch! £179 

samsonite.co.uk 

RICHARD OSMAN'S 

HOUSE OF GAMES 

Based on the hit BBC2 show, the House 

of Games board game is the ultimate 

test of knowledge and skill. Team up to 

tackle some trivia or face off against each 

other in the iconic Answer Smash. £25 

johnlewis.com 

CLANLANDS BY 

OUTLANDER STARS 

Sam Heughan and Graham McTavish's 

wild Scottish adventure! Plus don't miss 

their eight-part TV series of their journey 

Men in Kilts: A roadtrip with Sam And 

Graham coming out soon. £20 

hodder.co.uk

Unforgettable Cornwall Holidays 

DISCOVER YOUR CORNISH GEM 

Let Cornish Gems set the scene for your holiday highlife in Cornwall. 

Choose from over 180 luxury holiday homes offering beautiful settings from groups of 2 to 20. 

BEACH APARTMENTS • COUNTRY HOUSES • COASTAL COTTAGES • DOG FRIENDLY 

www.cornishgems.com | 01872 241 241

DESIGNED & MADE IN ORKNEY, SCOTLAND 

Snowdrop 

COLLECTION 

These small, delicate flowers herald 

the beginning of spring, and are 

a welcome sign of life and renewal. 

Shown in silver with Leaf enamel 

and also available in 18ct gold 

with Opalescent enamel. 

ORKNEY | EDINBURGH | GLASGOW 

01856 861 203 | sheilafleet.com

British Travel Journal | Spring 2021

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