Times of the Islands Spring 2021

Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, real estate, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.

Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, real estate, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.


You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

TIMES<br />

OF THE<br />



Beachcombing Treasures<br />


Handmade runway to PLS<br />


Green iguana invader<br />


Comfort Food Just Went A-list.<br />

If your idea <strong>of</strong> comfort feels like<br />

cashmere, you will find its culinary<br />

equivalent at Almond Tree,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Shore Club’s deliciously<br />

decadent new eatery.<br />

Golden, crusty wood-fired pizza.<br />

Savory skillets, bubbling over with flavor<br />

and just oozing with temptation.<br />

Salads and sides that give new meaning<br />

to <strong>the</strong> word “indulgence.”<br />

These days, we’re all hungry<br />

for contentment and satisfaction.<br />

Almond Tree at <strong>the</strong> Shore Club<br />

simply takes it to a whole new level.<br />

Reservations 649 339 8000<br />

<strong>the</strong>shoreclubtc.com<br />



Dinner 6 –10:30pm<br />

5pm – Midnight




23<br />




Key West Italian<br />

1. Village 2. Village<br />

3. Caribbean<br />

Village<br />

4. French<br />

Village<br />

5. Seaside<br />

Village<br />

TM/© <strong>2021</strong> Sesame Workshop<br />


Unlimited fun and entertainment is all-included<br />

at Beaches® Turks & Caicos. And now with our<br />

Platinum Protocol <strong>of</strong> Cleanliness, our already<br />

industry-leading safety and health practices are<br />

even more enhanced, guaranteeing <strong>the</strong> peace <strong>of</strong><br />

mind you need to enjoy your time with us. Stay at<br />

one village and play at all five choosing from every<br />

land and water sport imaginable, an awe-inspiring<br />

waterpark with a SurfStream® surf simulator, or simply just splash,<br />

swim and sip <strong>the</strong> day away with new friends at a sparkling swim-up<br />

pool bar. Pamper yourself in a world <strong>of</strong> tranquility at our Caribbeaninspired<br />

Red Lane® Spa and <strong>the</strong>n enjoy an all-included feast at one <strong>of</strong><br />

21 incredible 5-Star Global Gourmet restaurants and enjoy non-stop<br />

bars and entertainment all for <strong>the</strong> price <strong>of</strong> one vacation. With all <strong>of</strong> this<br />

activity at your fingertips, it’s no wonder Beaches Turks & Caicos has<br />

held <strong>the</strong> top spot at <strong>the</strong> World Travel Awards for over two decades.<br />


@beachesresorts<br />



*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandsspring<strong>2021</strong> or call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms and<br />

conditions. Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is an affiliate <strong>of</strong> Unique Travel Corp., <strong>the</strong> worldwide<br />

representative <strong>of</strong> Beaches Resorts.

contents<br />

Departments<br />

6 From <strong>the</strong> Editor<br />

17 Remember When<br />

The Birth <strong>of</strong> an Airport<br />

Story & Photos By Bengt Soderqvist<br />

24 Island Life<br />

TSA Tales from <strong>the</strong> Out <strong>Islands</strong><br />

By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos By Tom Rathgeb<br />

30 Talking Taíno<br />

Pandemic<br />

By Lindsay Keegan, Betsy Carlson,<br />

Michael Pateman and Bill Keegan<br />

68 Resort Report<br />

A Phoenix on North Caicos<br />

By Jody Rathgeb<br />

73 About <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>/TCI Map<br />

77 Subscription Form<br />

78 Where to Stay<br />

80 Dining<br />

82 Classified Ads<br />

Feature<br />

46 An Osprey Day<br />

Story & Photos By Lorna Rae Daniel-Dupree<br />

50 In Plain Sight<br />

Treasures on <strong>the</strong> Beach<br />

By Melissa Heres<br />

Green Pages<br />

36 The Green Invader<br />

By B Naqqi Manco<br />

39 Sunsets and Island Time<br />

Story & Photos By Ben Farmer<br />

43 Study Abroad<br />

By Anna Handte-Reinecker<br />

TIMES<br />

OF THE<br />



On <strong>the</strong> Cover<br />

Marta Morton, owner/operator <strong>of</strong> Harbour Club Villas<br />

(www.harbourclubvillas.com) took this photo <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

native Turks & Caicos rock iguana on Bay Cay. This<br />

endemic animal is being threatened by <strong>the</strong> invasive green<br />

iguana. See article on page 36.<br />

Astrolabe<br />

58 People <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Telling “A Caicos Sloop Story”<br />

Story & Photos By Michael P. Pateman and<br />

Vanessa A. Forbes-Pateman<br />

62 Selective Packing<br />

By Mat<strong>the</strong>w Matlack<br />

68<br />


4 www.timespub.tc

TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />

Beachfront 5 Acre Mandalay Estate, Long Bay Beach<br />

Nestled along coveted Long Bay Beach, Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, Mandalay Estate <strong>of</strong>fers a discerning<br />

buyer an idyllic private retreat with 300 ft. <strong>of</strong> pristine, white sandy beach and brilliant turquoise waters.<br />

Mandalay features 7 bedrooms and an award-winning architectural design capturing <strong>the</strong> essence <strong>of</strong><br />

open Caribbean living with a masterful layout that revolves around <strong>the</strong> spectacular multi-level pool.<br />

US$18,500,000<br />

Bernadette Hunt<br />

Cell ~ 649 231 4029 | Tel ~ 649 941 3361<br />

Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />

Bernadette has lived in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> for over 21 years and witnessed <strong>the</strong><br />

development and transition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands<br />

into a significant tourist destination. Based<br />

on independent figures her gross transaction<br />

numbers are unrivalled. Bernadette<br />

has listings on Providenciales, Pine Cay,<br />

Ambergris Cay, North and Middle Caicos<br />

and is delighted to work with sellers and<br />

buyers <strong>of</strong> homes, condos, commercial real<br />

estate and vacant undeveloped sites.<br />

Beachfront Sunrise Villa, Emerald Point<br />

Sunrise Villa is a stunning two-storey 5-bedroom, 6 and a half bathroom beachfront residence located<br />

in Emerald Point, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most prestigious developments in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. This<br />

newly built (2018) magnificent property <strong>of</strong>fers nearly 9,000 sq. ft. <strong>of</strong> luxury indoor/outdoor living<br />

space, is set on .72 <strong>of</strong> an acre and boasts just over 100 ft. <strong>of</strong> beautiful white sandy beach frontage.<br />

US$7,250,000<br />

Turks and Caicos Property is <strong>the</strong> leading<br />

independent real estate firm in <strong>the</strong> Turks and<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> with <strong>of</strong>fices located at Ocean<br />

Club West Resort and Ocean Club West<br />

Plaza on <strong>the</strong> Grace Bay Road.<br />

Bernadette’s reputation and success has been<br />

earned over time through her dedication,<br />

enthusiasm and passion for real estate. Her<br />

personal experience as having practiced law<br />

in <strong>the</strong> islands for more than 10 years toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

with owning and renovating a number <strong>of</strong><br />

properties means she is well-placed to advise<br />

her customers and developers on what to<br />

anticipate in <strong>the</strong> purchasing and construction<br />

process.<br />

Bernadette delights in working in <strong>the</strong> real<br />

estate industry and her humor and energy<br />

make her a pleasure to work with.<br />

Beachfront Crystal Sands Villa, Sapodilla Bay<br />

Crystal Sands Villa is a luxury beachfront villa in Sapodilla Bay, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos most<br />

coveted locations to reside. With its westerly exposure, you will enjoy <strong>the</strong> most magical sunsets <strong>the</strong><br />

islands have to <strong>of</strong>fer. The 4 bedroom, 4,200 sq. ft. property is perfect for large family ga<strong>the</strong>rings. Each<br />

bedroom features an ensuite bathroom and breathtaking views <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tranquil beach and turquoise waters.<br />

Please contact Bernadette if you would like<br />

to find out more about owning real estate in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />


from <strong>the</strong> editor<br />


This image <strong>of</strong> a nest <strong>of</strong> osprey chicks represents how we may feel in early <strong>2021</strong>.<br />

Under His Wings<br />

He will cover you with His fea<strong>the</strong>rs, and under His wings, you will find refuge. Psalm 91:4<br />

The image <strong>of</strong> a nest <strong>of</strong> osprey chicks above symbolizes how many <strong>of</strong> us may feel in early <strong>2021</strong>—vulnerable,<br />

needy, raw. We’re one year into <strong>the</strong> pandemic. The dream-like days <strong>of</strong> lockdown are over, reserves—literally and<br />

emotionally—are nearly gone and life is not even vaguely back to normal.<br />

This issue <strong>of</strong> <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>—<strong>the</strong> first in print for widespread distribution since last <strong>Spring</strong>—feels a bit like<br />

<strong>the</strong>se delicate chicks. We’re putting it out <strong>the</strong>re, even though <strong>the</strong> business community that supports us is struggling.<br />

While tourist arrivals are finally starting to gain momentum, <strong>the</strong> market is not <strong>the</strong> same. There are fewer vacationers<br />

and more long-term visitors; high-end real estate is booming as <strong>the</strong> wealthy seek to escape reality. How will this affect<br />

<strong>the</strong> average TCI resident? How will <strong>the</strong> country adjust?<br />

What you’ll see as you turn <strong>the</strong>se pages is our unrivaled quarterly chronicle <strong>of</strong> TCI nature, history and culture—<br />

seeking to glorify one <strong>of</strong> God’s most wonderful creations. We never stopped, you know. In 2020, we produced three,<br />

all-new, outstanding issues <strong>of</strong> <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, available on-line in flippable format. I can’t thank enough our<br />

contributors who kept on writing, researching and shooting photos, and our staunch advertisers, without whom we<br />

would not be here.<br />

It hasn’t been so bad to let my “s<strong>of</strong>t down” show. When I stop trying to have all <strong>the</strong> answers, solve every problem,<br />

and simply let go, seek refuge and trust, a funny thing happens. The shadows disappear and a brilliant Light filters<br />

in under those loving wings. With it, hope for better days ahead.<br />

Kathy Borsuk, Editor • timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 431-4788<br />

6 www.timespub.tc

14 Boathouses are already<br />

reserved or sold<br />

1, 2, or 3 bedroom layouts<br />

available<br />

Construction targeted to<br />

commence this summer <strong>2021</strong><br />

Prices starting from $795,000<br />

Register interest today at<br />

livesouthbank.com<br />

For more information contact<br />

Nina Siegenthaler at 649.231.0707<br />

Joe Zahm at 649.231.6188<br />

or email: nina@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com<br />

The Boathouses, set around a landscaped park and pool, <strong>of</strong>fer a vibrant village-style<br />

atmosphere on <strong>the</strong> marina waterfront. Every residence has a private boat dock <strong>of</strong>fering<br />

instant access to life on <strong>the</strong> water, with peaceful terraces to enjoy sunsets over Juba Sound.<br />

Developed by Windward: www.windward.tc<br />

Managed by:<br />

Brand partner:

TM/© <strong>2021</strong> Sesame Workshop

The Last <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> True Exotics<br />

IsFIRST<br />

For<br />




Beaches ® Turks & Caicos has held <strong>the</strong> top spot<br />

at <strong>the</strong> World Travel Awards for two decades by<br />

<strong>of</strong>fering families more <strong>of</strong> everything on <strong>the</strong> world’s<br />

best beach. Stay at one village and play at all five<br />

villages—Key West, Italian, Caribbean, French and<br />

Seaside —featuring every land and water sport*, an<br />

awe-inspiring waterpark with surf simulator, 5-Star<br />

Global Gourmet dining at 21 incredible restaurants,<br />

and non-stop bars and entertainment—all for <strong>the</strong><br />

price <strong>of</strong> one vacation. Also included are tips, taxes,<br />

and Beaches transfers.* And with trend-setting<br />

food trucks, live entertainment, and family-sized<br />

accommodations…<strong>the</strong> World’s Best Family Resorts<br />

include everything families want and deserve.<br />

Best For Families<br />

Readers’ Choice winner<br />

Best Hotel in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Caribbean<br />

Kimonos<br />

Beaches Turks & Caicos<br />

is on <strong>the</strong> world’s<br />


by tripadvisor ®<br />

For more information visit BEACHES.COM<br />

1-800-BEACHES or call your Travel Advisor<br />

@beachesresorts<br />


23<br />


*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandsspr<strong>2021</strong> or call 1-800-BEACHES for<br />

important terms and conditions. Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is an<br />

affiliate <strong>of</strong> Unique Travel Corp., <strong>the</strong> worldwide representative <strong>of</strong> Beaches Resorts.

For <strong>the</strong> fun <strong>of</strong> it.<br />

More Choices with<br />

Restaurants<br />

Trendy<br />

Food<br />

Trucks<br />

For <strong>the</strong> great selection.<br />




Only Beaches ® Resorts includes Robert<br />

Mondavi Twin Oaks ® wines. With six<br />

varietals to choose from, selected<br />

exclusively for Beaches, guests can<br />

savour an endless pour <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best<br />

wines at every meal and at every bar.<br />



The world’s finest and most<br />

sought-after c<strong>of</strong>fee beans are<br />

grown on <strong>the</strong> misty slopes<br />

<strong>of</strong> Jamaica’s soaring Blue<br />

Mountain range. A blend <strong>of</strong><br />

Jamaica Blue Mountain c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

is brewed fresh and served<br />

complimentary at<br />

Beaches Resorts. Only <strong>the</strong><br />

best for our guests.

World-Class<br />

Master Chefs<br />

5-Star Global Gourmet dining at<br />

Beaches Resorts brings new sights,<br />

sounds and tastes to each meal with<br />

au<strong>the</strong>ntic dishes from around <strong>the</strong> globe.<br />

Internationally trained chefs create<br />

innovative dishes that are a fusion <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> freshest ingredients. Recipes from<br />

around <strong>the</strong> world are as delicious as<br />

dining in <strong>the</strong> country <strong>of</strong> origin. We<br />

accommodate all dietary requirements<br />

and restrictions to ensure a worry-free<br />

vacation for you and your loved ones.<br />

For <strong>the</strong><br />

taste <strong>of</strong> it.<br />

Everyone has different tastes, and that’s why Beaches Turks & Caicos<br />

includes anytime 5-Star Global Gourmet dining at 21 outstanding<br />

restaurants. That means you can dine when you want, where you want,<br />

and enjoy as much as you want, choosing from an unprecedented variety<br />

<strong>of</strong> cuisines from around <strong>the</strong> world. From <strong>the</strong> Southwest to Asia, Italy to<br />

France, and from Great Britain to <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, every delicious morsel<br />

at every incredible restaurant <strong>of</strong>fers a new chef-inspired taste—all<br />

perfectly paired with unlimited pours <strong>of</strong> Robert Mondavi Twin Oaks ®<br />

wines. Plus special menus and restaurants for <strong>the</strong> kids!<br />

More Quality Inclusions<br />

Than Any O<strong>the</strong>r Resorts In The World<br />

Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations,<br />

Inc. is an affiliate <strong>of</strong> Unique Travel Corp., <strong>the</strong> worldwide<br />

representative <strong>of</strong> Beaches Resorts.<br />

Caribbean's Leading<br />

All-Inclusive Family<br />



2<br />

0<br />

2<br />

0<br />


1-800-BEACHES or call your Travel Advisor<br />

23<br />

@ beachesresorts<br />


TIMES<br />


Kathy Borsuk<br />

OF THE<br />



Claire Parrish<br />


Kathy Borsuk, Bengt Soderqvist, Dr. Betsy Carlson,<br />

Lorna Rae Daniel-Dupree, Ben Farmer, Anna Handte-<br />

Reinecker, Melissa Heres, Dr. Bill Keegan, Lindsay Keegan,<br />

Bryan N. Manco, Mat<strong>the</strong>w Matlack, Claire Parrish,<br />

Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Vanessa A. Forbes-Pateman,<br />

Jody Rathgeb, Lisa Talbot.<br />


Bottle Creek Lodge, Lorna Rae Daniel-Dupree, Ben Farmer,<br />

John Galleymore, Anna Handte-Reinecker, Melissa Heres,<br />

Heidi Hertler, Bryan N. Manco, Mat<strong>the</strong>w Matlack,<br />

Marta Morton, Vanessa A. Forbes-Pateman, Tom Rathgeb,<br />

Sand Dollar Images, Ramona Settle, Bengt Soderqvist,<br />

iStockphoto.com, Lisa Talbot.<br />


Wavey Line Publishing<br />


PF Solutions, Miami, FL<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> ISSN 1017-6853 is<br />

published quarterly by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd.<br />

Copyright © <strong>2021</strong> by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd. All rights reserved<br />

under Universal and Pan American Copyright Conventions.<br />

No part <strong>of</strong> this publication may be<br />

reproduced without written permission.<br />

Subscriptions $28/year; $32/year for<br />

non-U.S. mailing addresses<br />

Submissions We welcome submission <strong>of</strong> articles or photography, but<br />

assume no responsibility for care and return <strong>of</strong> unsolicited material.<br />

Return postage must accompany material if it is to be returned. In no<br />

event shall any writer or photographer subject this magazine to any<br />

claim for holding fees or damage charges on unsolicited material.<br />

S A V E O V E R 5 0 %<br />

O N Y O U R P O W E R B I L L<br />

W I T H S O L A R E N E R G Y<br />

Call us today for a renewable energy consultation<br />

+1 649 332 1393 or +1 649 431 4242<br />

While every care has been taken in <strong>the</strong> compilation and reproduction <strong>of</strong><br />

information contained herein to ensure correctness, such information is<br />

subject to change without notice. The publisher accepts no<br />

responsibility for such alterations or for typographical or o<strong>the</strong>r errors.<br />

Business Office<br />

<strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd., P.O. Box 234,<br />

Providenciales, Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />

Tel 649 431 4788<br />

Advertising 649 431 7527<br />

E-mail timespub@tciway.tc<br />

Web www.timespub.tc<br />

www.greenrevolutionltd.com<br />

16 www.timespub.tc

emember when<br />

This 1967 photograph shows <strong>the</strong> original airstrip after it had been extended to 1,200 feet. The Kew Town roundabout is approximately where<br />

<strong>the</strong> 90º turn in <strong>the</strong> track road is. Walkin Marine’s current location is left <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> standing water at <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> picture.<br />

The Birth <strong>of</strong> an Airport<br />

Providenciales’ international airport started out as a handmade runway.<br />

Story & Photos By Bengt Soderqvist<br />

Pre-COVID-19, <strong>the</strong> Providenciales International Airport was bustling with flights from around <strong>the</strong> world,<br />

especially on weekends during <strong>the</strong> busy winter/spring months. In 2019, nearly half a million visitors<br />

arrived on <strong>the</strong> 9,199-foot runway and passed through <strong>the</strong> singular terminal building. International airlines<br />

currently serving <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos include American Airlines, Delta, United, jetBlue, Air Canada, West<br />

Jet, British Airways and InterCaribbean Airways. Travel is slowly increasing as visitors crave <strong>the</strong> peaceful,<br />

natural beauty <strong>the</strong> country has to <strong>of</strong>fer. The TCI Assured program helps ensure <strong>the</strong> health and safety <strong>of</strong><br />

travellers and residents.<br />

But 60 years ago <strong>the</strong>re were no airports, no flight infrastructure and bush was cleared away to create<br />

an airstrip.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 17

In <strong>the</strong> 1960s before development started on<br />

Providenciales, <strong>the</strong> TCI Government had a work program<br />

run by <strong>the</strong> district constables. This made it possible for<br />

some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> residents to earn money. At that time, most<br />

families made a living farming <strong>the</strong> land and fishing <strong>the</strong><br />

sea, but cash was needed to buy a few staples—flour, oil,<br />

sugar, for instance.<br />

In Blue Hills <strong>the</strong> main work was to build a road in front<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> settlement tracing <strong>the</strong> beach. Rocks were carried<br />

from <strong>the</strong> bush and placed in <strong>the</strong> sand. O<strong>the</strong>r rocks were<br />

broken up into smaller pieces using a hammer, <strong>the</strong>n<br />

placed in <strong>the</strong> voids between <strong>the</strong> larger rocks. After that,<br />

sand was hauled up in buckets from <strong>the</strong> beach and sprinkled<br />

over <strong>the</strong> rock base to make a smooth surface.<br />

Ano<strong>the</strong>r work project had been to build a 700-foot<br />

long airstrip located in <strong>the</strong> valley where Kew Town is<br />

today. The bushes were cleared and <strong>the</strong> largest rocks<br />

removed.<br />

In 1966, Fritz Ludington formed Provident Limited<br />

and made a lease purchase agreement with <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />

Government to develop 4,000 acres on <strong>the</strong> eastern part<br />

<strong>of</strong> Providenciales. In October 1966 Fritz, toge<strong>the</strong>r with<br />

his friend Tommy Coleman and me arrived by boat on<br />

Providenciales to start <strong>the</strong> development. The boat was a<br />

65 foot workboat named <strong>the</strong> Seven Dwarves. I was hired<br />

as a surveyor/engineer but <strong>the</strong> true job description was<br />

more like “to do anything that was needed.”<br />

Fritz understood that to have an efficient operation,<br />

we needed to be able to come and go in a faster way<br />

than by boat. We took a look at <strong>the</strong> 700 feet that had<br />

been cleared and Fritz decided that his wife’s plane could<br />

probably be used to land <strong>the</strong>re, even if <strong>the</strong> surface was<br />

pretty rough. Chris Ludington’s plane was a Cessna 180<br />

with US registration number 74C, “74 Charlie” in pilot<br />

lingo. Fritz needed to get back to <strong>the</strong> mainland and a few<br />

days later 74 Charlie showed up for <strong>the</strong> historical landing.<br />

(I was told that one or two airplanes had landed on <strong>the</strong><br />

strip prior to our arrival on Providenciales. I could never<br />

get that confirmed so I don’t know if we were watching a<br />

“first” landing or not.)<br />

For <strong>the</strong> next six months we used <strong>the</strong> air strip quite<br />

a lot. I think Chris wound up with <strong>the</strong> short end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

stick because Provident more and more took over <strong>the</strong> use<br />

<strong>of</strong> her plane. During this time Fritz hired Embry Rucker<br />

as a pilot (among o<strong>the</strong>r things). Embry recently published<br />

a book, Coming in for a Landing, where he tells<br />

about flying in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> in <strong>the</strong> early days. The book is<br />

available on Amazon and is also for sale at <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos National Museum. (See https://www.timespub.<br />

tc/2019/03/up-up-and-away/).<br />

Fritz Ludington himself was an experienced pilot,<br />

as were many o<strong>the</strong>rs in <strong>the</strong> Provident group. Aviation<br />

was very important in <strong>the</strong> early development <strong>of</strong><br />

Providenciales.<br />

When <strong>the</strong> heavy equipment arrived in April 1967,<br />

<strong>the</strong> first priority was to improve on <strong>the</strong> existing airstrip.<br />

Provident had chartered Margaret <strong>of</strong> Exuma, a self propelled<br />

barge fully loaded with heavy equipment. The<br />

Bahamian captain entered through Sellar’s Cut, <strong>the</strong>n zigzagged<br />

between <strong>the</strong> coral heads up to <strong>the</strong> beach where<br />

This 1966 image shows “74 Charlie” on take-<strong>of</strong>f from <strong>the</strong> original 700-foot airstrip.<br />

18 www.timespub.tc

The Leading Private Bank in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Where values are growing<br />

Wealth Management • Bonds/Fixed Income<br />

Investment Strategies • Foreign Exchange<br />

Stocks/Equities • Precious Metals<br />

Fixed deposits/CD’s • International Transfers<br />

Turks & Caicos Banking Company Ltd.<br />

The Regent Village, Unit H102, Grace Bay Road, Providenciales<br />

Tel: +649 941 4994<br />

Email: services@tcbc.tc • www.tcbc.tc<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 19<br />

Regulated by <strong>the</strong> Financial Services Commission, Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>

This photograph shows Junior Rigby with <strong>the</strong> heavy equipment used to clear <strong>the</strong> “new airport” in 1967.<br />

<strong>the</strong> National Park is today. The bow ramp was lowered<br />

onto <strong>the</strong> beach and Provident’s brand new Caterpillar D8 people in government in those days. We were mostly<br />

Walkin May2017_Layout 1 5/28/17 5:45 PM Page 1<br />

tractor crawled ashore with Billy Dodson at <strong>the</strong> controls. dealing with <strong>the</strong> Administrator Tony Golding, Magistrate<br />

Fritz had hired Billy to head up Provident’s heavy equipment<br />

division.<br />

Once <strong>the</strong> D8 was ashore, it could drag <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

load onto <strong>the</strong> beach, even if some <strong>of</strong> it got stuck in <strong>the</strong><br />

loose sand. With <strong>the</strong> D8, a grader and a roller available it<br />

was time to start improving <strong>the</strong> airstrip. Billy, with Fritz<br />

riding on <strong>the</strong> armrest, headed west through <strong>the</strong> bushes<br />

with <strong>the</strong> D8 and made a narrow track all <strong>the</strong> way down to<br />

<strong>the</strong> airstrip.<br />

While this was going on I was still in Sweden finishing<br />

<strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> topographic map that was needed to properly<br />

plan our road system and subdivisions. Only part <strong>of</strong> that<br />

original track became part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> final road system, but<br />

it served <strong>the</strong> purpose <strong>of</strong> getting <strong>the</strong> equipment to <strong>the</strong><br />

airstrip. Billy very quickly added 500 feet to <strong>the</strong> east,<br />

which brought <strong>the</strong> eastern end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> runway closer to<br />

what today is Walkin Marine. With <strong>the</strong> grader and roller<br />

he created an even, compacted surface—1,200 feet and<br />

no loose rocks, luxury!<br />

Part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> agreement with government was that<br />

Provident construct a 4,500 foot runway with a coral surface<br />

and <strong>the</strong> location should be outside <strong>the</strong> 4,000 acres<br />

that was to be developed by Provident. Since we now had<br />

<strong>the</strong> equipment, we wanted to get going on fulfilling our<br />

obligations, so we asked <strong>the</strong> TCI Government where <strong>the</strong>y<br />

wanted us to build <strong>the</strong> runway. There weren’t that many<br />




Lures and Live Bait<br />

Marine Hardware & Gear<br />

Fishing Gear & Supplies<br />

Marine Paints & Varnish<br />

Marine Batteries<br />

Sebago Docksiders<br />

& Sperry Topsiders Shoes<br />

BLUE<br />

BLUE<br />

HILLS<br />

HILLS<br />

ROAD<br />

ROAD<br />



TURKS<br />

TURKS<br />

& CAICOS<br />

CAICOS<br />

ISLANDS,<br />

ISLANDS,<br />

B.W.I.<br />

B.W.I.<br />

PHONE: 649-946-4411<br />

FAX: 649-946-4945<br />

20 www.timespub.tc


435’ on Grace Bay Beach, a perennially acclaimed Caribbean destination.<br />

30 years <strong>of</strong> construction development and hotel operations success.<br />

A decade <strong>of</strong> travel industry awards and consistently high guest ratings.<br />

10 years <strong>of</strong> strong ROI and very satisfied owners.<br />

Where will you invest?<br />

Windsong Resort Residences<br />

Imaginative Phase II Resort Condominiums<br />

Pre-Construction Pricing Available.<br />

_____________________________<br />

1-649-946-3766 • Toll Free (US/Canada): 1-855-WINDSONG (946-3766)<br />

Stubbs Road, Grace Bay • Providenciales, Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

www.windsongresidences.com • realestate@windsongresort.com

This is a very early picture (1967) <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “new” runway, when we could only use <strong>the</strong> small, white portion on <strong>the</strong> eastern end. You can also see<br />

<strong>the</strong> 1,200 foot strip to <strong>the</strong> north (arrow).<br />

Finbar Dempsey and Gus Lightbourne, who was <strong>the</strong><br />

elected representative for Providenciales. Planning and<br />

survey departments were still to be formed.<br />

The government suggested that we extend <strong>the</strong> location<br />

where we had <strong>the</strong> 1,200 feet. As we now had <strong>the</strong><br />

proper topographic map available, I could show Fritz<br />

that we could build a 4,500-foot runway <strong>the</strong>re, but <strong>the</strong>re<br />

would be no room for future extension because we would<br />

be jammed in between two hills. The map clearly showed<br />

that if <strong>the</strong> runway was moved about half a mile south it<br />

would be more suitable, because in that location <strong>the</strong>re<br />

was a lot <strong>of</strong> flat ground.<br />

We were having a lot <strong>of</strong> discussions about where <strong>the</strong><br />

best location for <strong>the</strong> Providenciales airport should be.<br />

Both Fritz and I agreed that <strong>the</strong> ideal location for an east–<br />

west runway would be just south <strong>of</strong> North West Point.The<br />

noisy approach and take <strong>of</strong>f areas would be over water.<br />

But this was 1967 and North West Point was about as far<br />

away as <strong>the</strong> moon!<br />

South Caicos District Commissioner Ben Bolt came<br />

over on behalf <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> government to inspect <strong>the</strong> location<br />

for <strong>the</strong> runway that we were suggesting. First, I showed<br />

him on <strong>the</strong> topo map why this was a good location. Then<br />

we walked on <strong>the</strong> footpath from Blue Hills to Five Cays<br />

which was flanked by a stone wall. When we reached<br />

<strong>the</strong> proposed location, we jumped atop <strong>the</strong> wall to see<br />

above <strong>the</strong> bushes. It was obvious <strong>the</strong>re was a lot <strong>of</strong> flat,<br />

level ground stretching far to <strong>the</strong> west. Ben Bolt agreed<br />

that this looked like a good location, so <strong>the</strong> decision was<br />

made <strong>the</strong>n and <strong>the</strong>re that this was where we were going<br />

to build <strong>the</strong> runway for Providenciales and that’s where<br />

we are still landing today!<br />

The Providenciales International Airport underwent a major expansion/redevelopment program in 2011.<br />

22 www.timespub.tc

I marked out <strong>the</strong> new runway, set up grade stakes and<br />

Billy Dodson got to work with <strong>the</strong> D8 tractor. Billy had<br />

also given Junior Rigby on-<strong>the</strong>-job training, and Junior<br />

became an excellent operator, first on <strong>the</strong> D8 and later on<br />

<strong>the</strong> grader. (In fact, many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> roads we are driving on<br />

today were originally built by Junior.) We reserved 1,000<br />

feet in width for <strong>the</strong> new runway, thinking <strong>of</strong> possible<br />

future taxiways, but we originally only cleared 500 feet in<br />

width. Very soon, Billy and Junior made a small area in <strong>the</strong><br />

nor<strong>the</strong>ast corner ready for landings and take<strong>of</strong>fs. Once<br />

we started operating from <strong>the</strong>re, <strong>the</strong> original handmade<br />

airstrip was never used again.<br />

Even if Provident’s obligation to <strong>the</strong> government was<br />

to build 4,500 feet, we originally cleared 6,000 feet. By<br />

<strong>the</strong> early 1970s, <strong>the</strong> entire 6,000 feet had been built out<br />

with a coral surface. Around 1977 <strong>the</strong> entire runway was<br />

surfaced with a sealcoat.<br />

Starting in 1981, a major upgrade was undertaken by<br />

Johnston Construction, financed through a British grant.<br />

This was part <strong>of</strong> Club Med’s deal, which required an airport<br />

up to FAA standards. The runway was extended to<br />

8,000 feet. The limestone base was recycled and reinforced<br />

through cement stabilization, while <strong>the</strong> runway<br />

was surfaced with a triple sealcoat. A new terminal was<br />

built in <strong>the</strong> present location, replacing <strong>the</strong> original one<br />

that Provident had built fur<strong>the</strong>r east. In <strong>the</strong> 1990s, <strong>the</strong><br />

runway was resurfaced with hotmix asphalt. That work<br />

was done during <strong>the</strong> nights to avoid interruption <strong>of</strong> operations.<br />

The 2011 expansion took <strong>the</strong> runway to 9,200<br />

feet. a<br />

Author’s note: The D8 was a very important piece <strong>of</strong><br />

equipment and at least one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> guys on my survey<br />

crew agreed. In <strong>the</strong> spring <strong>of</strong> 1969 <strong>the</strong>re was a lot <strong>of</strong> talk<br />

about <strong>the</strong> upcoming moon landing. I had told <strong>the</strong> guys<br />

that this was just <strong>the</strong> beginning. In <strong>the</strong> future <strong>the</strong>y would<br />

shoot rockets from <strong>the</strong> moon so <strong>the</strong>y would need something<br />

like an airport. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> guys said, “But how are<br />

<strong>the</strong>y going to get a D8 up <strong>the</strong>re?” I think we agreed that it<br />

would take many trips bringing up a small piece at a time.<br />

In those days we got news via shortwave radio so we<br />

knew that <strong>the</strong> moon landing would be shown live on TV.<br />

We didn’t want to miss this event, so when <strong>the</strong> day came,<br />

five or six <strong>of</strong> us in <strong>the</strong> Provident group flew to Puerto<br />

Rico to watch <strong>the</strong> landing. Luckily, <strong>the</strong> Spanish commentator<br />

was quiet for a few seconds so we could hear Neil<br />

Armstrong’s famous words. A few years back, I was fortunate<br />

enough to meet Buzz Aldrin, <strong>the</strong> second man on<br />

<strong>the</strong> moon. He got a kick out <strong>of</strong> my story.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 23

island life<br />

People who live or have homes on North and Middle Caicos don’t pack <strong>the</strong> normal vacation items like sunscreen or swimwear. They’re more<br />

likely to fill <strong>the</strong>ir bags with household supplies that are hard to find on <strong>the</strong> outer islands.<br />

TSA Tales from <strong>the</strong> Out <strong>Islands</strong><br />

The things we carry (or not).<br />

Somewhere in a drawer at my North Caicos home is a collection <strong>of</strong> notices from <strong>the</strong> Transportation<br />

Security Administration, telling me that my checked luggage has been inspected. These inspections have<br />

become so regular that I now expect <strong>the</strong>m, so sometimes I leave my own notes for TSA, letting <strong>the</strong>m<br />

know what is in some carefully-packed fragile parcel and asking <strong>the</strong>m to re-package just as carefully. This<br />

“correspondence” has been going on for years; I have a lot <strong>of</strong> notices.<br />

24 www.timespub.tc<br />

By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos by Tom Rathgeb

O<strong>the</strong>r homeowners on North and Middle Caicos<br />

understand completely: We all bring weird stuff with us<br />

to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Aware <strong>of</strong> what we might not find on <strong>the</strong><br />

outer islands and <strong>of</strong>ten unable or unwilling to shop in<br />

Providenciales on our way to <strong>the</strong> ferry, we schlep it along<br />

. . . plumbing connections, art supplies, specialized tools<br />

and kitchen utensils, favorite foods, car parts and more.<br />

I <strong>of</strong>ten bring construction glue, grout and glass mosaic<br />

tiles, all <strong>of</strong> which apparently look suspicious on x-ray<br />

(thus <strong>the</strong> inspections).<br />

And <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong>re are <strong>the</strong> TSA checkpoints scrutinizing<br />

carry-on luggage. These are particularly vexing for<br />

North and Middle Caicos folk, not because we’re trying to<br />

break <strong>the</strong> rules, but for o<strong>the</strong>r various reasons: brain blips<br />

during packing, innocent ignorance, simple forgetfulness<br />

and (not least) <strong>the</strong> confusing capriciousness <strong>of</strong> TSA itself.<br />

All lead to bewildering confiscations, comic explanations<br />

and a never-fail conversation starter at island ga<strong>the</strong>rings.<br />

Death by butter<br />

For Joe and Denise Ashcraft, an attempt at keeping to<br />

<strong>the</strong> allowable weight in <strong>the</strong>ir checked bag led to a loss<br />

<strong>of</strong> flatware. Even though Joe had researched whe<strong>the</strong>r<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir set would be allowed in his backpack (and was told<br />

yes, as long as <strong>the</strong> table knives were rounded and blunt<br />

instead <strong>of</strong> sharp), <strong>the</strong>re was a butter-knife bung-up. The<br />

line agent at <strong>the</strong> TSA checkpoint was inclined to allow <strong>the</strong><br />

knives, but her supervisor said no. “The people aboard<br />

our plane will be happy to know that <strong>the</strong>y have been<br />

saved from being buttered,” Denise commented later in<br />

a Facebook post.<br />

The post brought out o<strong>the</strong>rs who have had items confiscated,<br />

along with tales <strong>of</strong> some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> exchanges and<br />

explanations. When TSA took some drill bits from Howard<br />

Bartels <strong>of</strong> Major Hill, he was told that with <strong>the</strong>m he might<br />

be able to disassemble <strong>the</strong> plane. Of course, without <strong>the</strong><br />

drill itself, it would take a very long time to do any sort<br />

<strong>of</strong> damage during a flight, even if that was intended!<br />

O<strong>the</strong>r drill bits have been taken from Nestor and Dina<br />

Fernandez and me, though with less amusement.<br />

Joe and Denise Ashcraft bought a set <strong>of</strong> table utensils from Target, intending <strong>the</strong>m for <strong>the</strong>ir North Caicos home. The knives were confiscated<br />

by TSA, even though Joe had been told that rounded butter knives were allowable in carry-on luggage.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 25

The longest established legal practice<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Real Estate Investments<br />

& Property Development<br />

Immigration, Residency<br />

& Business Licensing<br />

Company & Commercial Law<br />

Trusts & Estate Planning<br />

Banking & Insurance<br />

1 Caribbean Place, P.O. Box 97<br />

Leeward Highway, Providenciales<br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />

Ph: 649 946 4344 • Fax: 649 946 4564<br />

E-Mail: dempsey@tciway.tc<br />

Cockburn House, P.O. Box 70<br />

Market Street, Grand Turk<br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />

Ph: 649 946 2245 • Fax: 649 946 2758<br />

E-Mail: ffdlawco@tciway.tc<br />

john redmond associates ltd.<br />

architects & designers<br />

construction consultants<br />

project management<br />

p.o.box 21, providenciales, turks & caicos is.<br />

tel.: 9464440 cell: 2314569 email: redmond@tciway.tc<br />

Peanut butter is an <strong>of</strong>t-confiscated item at TSA checkpoints. That’s<br />

because it is viewed as a liquid, and only 3.4 ounces (100 ml) <strong>of</strong> a<br />

liquid is allowed. Since <strong>the</strong> blob <strong>of</strong> peanut butter shown here is <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> proper amount, it doesn’t make sense to bring an item that is<br />

available everywhere.<br />

In general, according to <strong>the</strong> TSA website, tools longer<br />

than seven inches are prohibited in carry-on bags,<br />

although that does not explain <strong>the</strong> drill bits. A deep reading<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> site does explain, however, some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> strange<br />

“yeas” and “nays” <strong>of</strong> what is allowed; if someone in TSA<br />

decides something can be used as a weapon, it is banned.<br />

And so you cannot take a cutting board with you on <strong>the</strong><br />

plane. We suppose that is so you cannot whack someone<br />

with it. Pots and pans are allowed except for cast iron<br />

skillets. (It seems someone was watching “Fried Green<br />

Tomatoes” while drafting <strong>the</strong> list.)<br />

A liquid by any o<strong>the</strong>r name<br />

Liquids seem to be <strong>the</strong> most-confiscated items, with people<br />

reporting hot sauce, hand cream, luxury hair products<br />

and gourmet honey going into <strong>the</strong> relinquishment bin<br />

(it’s always <strong>the</strong> expensive stuff). But <strong>the</strong> definition <strong>of</strong> “liquid”<br />

is, well, fluid. For TSA, peanut butter is a liquid. So is<br />

glue (including pipe cement) and caulking. And a Magic<br />

8-Ball—that fortune-telling toy from Mattel—is definitely<br />

a liquid. Actually, all those things, except <strong>the</strong> 8-Ball, are<br />

allowed in a carry-on bag as long as <strong>the</strong>y do not exceed<br />

3.4 ounces or 100 milliliters. The key is in <strong>the</strong> amount.<br />

The line between liquid and solid puts o<strong>the</strong>r foodstuffs<br />

in jeopardy as well. The “liquid” in fresh eggs is,<br />

yes, less liquid than that in <strong>the</strong> Magic 8-Ball, but <strong>the</strong> egg<br />

26 www.timespub.tc

is easier to break open. Yet fresh eggs are on <strong>the</strong> okay<br />

list. You can carry on a home-baked pie, but not a container<br />

<strong>of</strong> piecrust filling. S<strong>of</strong>t cheeses are forbidden, but<br />

hard cheeses are allowed. Don’t count on an agent knowing<br />

<strong>the</strong> difference, though. Cheryl C<strong>of</strong>fin was stopped for<br />

a wedge <strong>of</strong> Parmesan (hard and grateable) and got it to<br />

North Caicos only after explaining <strong>the</strong> location <strong>of</strong> North<br />

and her passion (no, NEED) for good Parm.<br />

Powder power<br />

“Powder-like substances greater than 12 oz./350 ml must<br />

be placed in a separate bin for x-ray screening,” states <strong>the</strong><br />

TSA website. This does not mean <strong>the</strong>y will come through<br />

<strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> line with you. Many travelers have<br />

been relieved <strong>of</strong> baby powder, containers o<strong>the</strong>r than<br />

individual packs <strong>of</strong> artificial sweetener and DampRid, a<br />

moisture-absorbing product. Check ‘em, everyone!<br />

Are you a bit confused by all this? You can find a lot<br />

<strong>of</strong> info at www.tsa.gov, or put a question to www.facebook.com/AskTSA.<br />

But even if one scrupulously follows<br />

<strong>the</strong> regulations, <strong>the</strong>re’s no telling what will happen at <strong>the</strong><br />

checkpoint, where logic, science and common sense have<br />

little pull. As you pack your carry-on bag, remember that<br />

<strong>the</strong> best thing to bring with you is a sense <strong>of</strong> humor. a<br />

Mattel’s Magic 8-Ball is a definite no-no at a TSA checkpoint, even<br />

though its liquid (alcohol and dye) is likely within <strong>the</strong> 3.4-ounce limit<br />

and it is sealed within <strong>the</strong> plastic.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 27

You can’t make this up<br />

Just for <strong>the</strong> fun <strong>of</strong> it, here is a direct quote from <strong>the</strong><br />

TSA website: “A live lobster is allowed through security<br />

and must be transported in a clear, plastic, spill<br />

pro<strong>of</strong> container. A TSA <strong>of</strong>ficer will visually inspect<br />

your lobster at <strong>the</strong> checkpoint. We recommend that<br />

you contact your airline to determine your airline’s<br />

policy on traveling with your lobster before arriving<br />

at <strong>the</strong> airport.”<br />

Glug, glug, glug!<br />

By now everyone knows that you can’t take a water<br />

bottle with you through a TSA checkpoint, and most<br />

people who forget <strong>the</strong>y’ve been carrying one simply<br />

shrug and ditch it. But <strong>the</strong> full metal water bottle<br />

B Naqqi Manco <strong>of</strong> North Caicos was holding was a<br />

customized gift made by his sister-in-law, featuring<br />

photos <strong>of</strong> his niece and nephew. He relates <strong>the</strong> story<br />

<strong>of</strong> its near-confiscation: “They were holding it over<br />

<strong>the</strong> bin and I told <strong>the</strong>m I can drink <strong>the</strong> water and <strong>the</strong>y<br />

were wavering on it, and someone else (no idea who,<br />

I’m thinking ano<strong>the</strong>r agent) shouted, ‘Awww, let him<br />

drink it, look at those precious babies.’ The agent<br />

doubtfully asked me if I could down <strong>the</strong> full liter and<br />

I made an ‘Oh please’ look, and pretty much downed<br />

it in one gulp. I was allowed to keep my bottle.” a<br />

28 www.timespub.tc

Building Your Vision, Delivering Excellence, and Exceeding Expectations -<br />

Time After Time.<br />

Projetech <strong>of</strong>fers turnkey Construction Management and General Contracting<br />

Services for Residential, Commercial and Hotel & Condominium Projects in <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Our depth <strong>of</strong> experience is unrivaled and our<br />

commitment to quality shows in <strong>the</strong> hundreds <strong>of</strong> projects we’ve completed in <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos since our beginnings in 1996.<br />

E S T A B L I SHE D 1 9 9 6<br />

C O N S TRUCTI O N M ANA G E M E N T & S E R V I C E S L T D<br />


T: 649.941.3508 | F: 649.941.5824 | INFO@PROJETECH.TC | WWW.PROJETECH.TC |


talking taíno<br />

Opposite page: Although we are thick in <strong>the</strong> midst <strong>of</strong> dealing with COVID-19, <strong>the</strong> first pandemic in <strong>the</strong> Americas may date to <strong>the</strong> arrival <strong>of</strong><br />

Christopher Columbus.<br />

Above: This vintage etching circa 19th century by Ivan Konstantinovich Aivazovsky depicts <strong>the</strong> landing <strong>of</strong> Christopher Columbus.<br />


Pandemic<br />

How much <strong>of</strong> Taíno depopulation was <strong>the</strong> result <strong>of</strong> disease?<br />

Today’s “Talking Taíno” is brought to you by <strong>the</strong> letters R and N. First R—not <strong>the</strong> pirate’s favorite letter<br />

(which actually is <strong>the</strong> C)—but R 0 (“R naught”), <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>the</strong>matical term that indicates how contagious an<br />

infectious disease is. We invited Lindsay to join us because she wrote her dissertation on R 0 , and has<br />

spent her young career modeling infectious disease transmission, including COVID-19, malaria and zika.<br />

The arrival <strong>of</strong> vaccines will help us to “turn <strong>the</strong> corner,” but unfortunately, we’re still a long way from <strong>the</strong><br />

end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> coronavirus pandemic.<br />

By Lindsay Keegan, Betsy Carlson, Michael Pateman and Bill Keegan<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 31

Wear a mask, wash your hands,<br />

socially distance, get vaccinated<br />

The epidemiologists had warned us. The virologists told<br />

us it was lethal, and we had no immunity. The modelers<br />

predicted dire consequences. Front-line doctors and<br />

nurses showed us overflowing hospital wards; refrigerator<br />

trucks were parked out back. And Johns Hopkins kept<br />

count: 2,000,000+ deaths worldwide. How could we let<br />

this happen? Especially since this isn’t our first rodeo. In<br />

fact, <strong>the</strong> first pandemic in <strong>the</strong> Americas may date to <strong>the</strong><br />

arrival <strong>of</strong> Christopher Columbus. More about Columbus<br />

in a bit, but first back to R 0.<br />

The density <strong>of</strong> a population is key to <strong>the</strong> speed <strong>of</strong><br />

disease spread. R 0 describes that spread if everyone is<br />

immunologically naïve (totally susceptible) in <strong>the</strong> absence<br />

<strong>of</strong> interventions (such as social distancing or mask use).<br />

In a nutshell, R 0 is <strong>the</strong> average number <strong>of</strong> individuals that<br />

a contagious individual will infect. Granted, not everyone<br />

who is contagious will infect someone else, but <strong>the</strong>re are<br />

individuals whose physical response (excessive shedding<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> virus) or personal actions (ignoring sanitary behavior)<br />

are “superspreaders,” who infect far more than <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

allotted R 0 .<br />

For COVID-19, <strong>the</strong> current pandemic apparently<br />

began in Wuhan, China in December 2019 and first<br />

appeared in New York in early 2020. Epidemiologists<br />

estimate <strong>the</strong> R 0 for <strong>the</strong> original SARS-CoV-2 virus ranges<br />

from 2 to 3 (meaning one individual will infect two to<br />

three o<strong>the</strong>r individuals). In comparison, <strong>the</strong> new variants<br />

that have emerged recently are 60% more contagious (R 0<br />

= 3.2–4.8). Smallpox is estimated to have an R 0 = 3.5–<br />

6, which means it is 1.75–2 times more infectious than<br />

COVID-19 has been. Pandemic influenza, including <strong>the</strong><br />

1918 “Spanish flu” (R 0 = 1.8–3.6) is on par with COVID-19,<br />

while seasonal flu is considerably lower (R 0 = 1.2–1.4). In<br />

gallows humor, diseases spread because <strong>of</strong> density and<br />

density: Population density—in particular how spatially<br />

clustered susceptible people are and <strong>the</strong> “dense-ity” <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> population—or how much <strong>the</strong>y bury <strong>the</strong>ir heads in <strong>the</strong><br />

sand in response to disease.<br />

Wear a mask, wash your hands,<br />

socially distance, get vaccinated<br />

Back to Columbus, and <strong>the</strong> phenomenon known as <strong>the</strong><br />

Columbian Exchange—<strong>the</strong> transfer <strong>of</strong> plants, animals,<br />

people (and diseases) between <strong>the</strong> Old and New Worlds.<br />

In historian Alfred Crosby’s study <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Exchange, he<br />

gave <strong>the</strong> name “virgin soil epidemics” to diseases in which<br />

a population had no previous contact and are <strong>the</strong>refore<br />

immunologically defenseless. In this regard, <strong>the</strong> politics<br />

<strong>of</strong> disease, what David Jones has called “rationalizing epidemics,”<br />

has been used both to blame <strong>the</strong> source (“China<br />

virus”) and absolve those who transmit <strong>the</strong> disease by<br />

blaming <strong>the</strong> victim (in this case <strong>the</strong> Native peoples <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Americas) for lacking immunity and being genetically<br />

naïve.<br />

By this logic <strong>the</strong> fault did not lie with <strong>the</strong> Spanish<br />

and o<strong>the</strong>r Europeans who came to <strong>the</strong> New World,<br />

even though it was Old World diseases that caused <strong>the</strong><br />

demise <strong>of</strong> Indigenous societies. Indeed, accounts from<br />

<strong>the</strong> British settlement <strong>of</strong> New England in <strong>the</strong> mid-1600s<br />

clearly describe <strong>the</strong> horrific impact <strong>of</strong> European diseases,<br />

especially smallpox, which decimated <strong>the</strong> Narragansett,<br />

Massachusett, Wapanoag and o<strong>the</strong>r Indigenous communities.<br />

The colonists’ sentiment was, “God ha<strong>the</strong> consumed<br />

<strong>the</strong> natives with miraculous plague,” and “cleared our<br />

title” to New England.<br />

It is surprising that <strong>the</strong>re are no similar descriptions<br />

<strong>of</strong> Taíno mortality during <strong>the</strong> initial Spanish invasion.<br />

Why not? Were pathogens, unwittingly transmitted by <strong>the</strong><br />

Spanish invaders, responsible for <strong>the</strong> rapid collapse <strong>of</strong><br />

Taíno society? Conversely, did pathogens transmitted by<br />

<strong>the</strong> Taíno cause <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong> numerous Spaniards in <strong>the</strong><br />

early years <strong>of</strong> Spanish settlement in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean? To<br />

find <strong>the</strong> answers, we need to examine <strong>the</strong> different potential<br />

diagnoses <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Columbian Exchange with respect to<br />

disease symptoms and etiology.<br />

The Columbian Exchange went both ways and sometimes<br />

it was <strong>the</strong> colonizers who got sick. Historically, little<br />

attention has been paid to dead Colonial Spaniards, yet<br />

die <strong>the</strong>y did and at alarming rates. Within a week <strong>of</strong> landing<br />

at La Isabela, <strong>the</strong> first Spanish settlement in <strong>the</strong> New<br />

World established on <strong>the</strong> north coast <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Dominican<br />

Republic in 1493, at least one-third <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 1,200 men<br />

Columbus brought with him on his second voyage fell<br />

sick, half were incapacitated soon after, and an unspecified<br />

number died. When newly appointed Governor<br />

Nicolas Ovando replaced Columbus in Hispaniola in<br />

1502, <strong>the</strong> 1,000 men he brought with him fell sick and<br />

<strong>the</strong> majority died. Bartolomé de las Casas (<strong>the</strong> principal<br />

eyewitness chronicler) blamed a new disease—syphilis—<br />

but syphilis does not kill quickly, taking on average <strong>of</strong><br />

10–30 years from exposure to death. The culprit was certainly<br />

not syphilis.<br />

Wear a mask, wash your hands,<br />

socially distance, get vaccinated<br />

32 www.timespub.tc

This llustrated panel from <strong>the</strong> 16th-century Florentine Codex depicts a Mesoamerican infected with smallpox.<br />

Fever was <strong>the</strong> only symptom mentioned at <strong>the</strong> time.<br />

Illness was attributed to <strong>the</strong> change <strong>of</strong> climate, diet and<br />

hard work; but since more than eleven weeks had passed<br />

since <strong>the</strong>y left <strong>the</strong> Canary <strong>Islands</strong>, scurvy could be implicated.<br />

Scurvy is a debilitating disease caused by a lack <strong>of</strong><br />

vitamin C in <strong>the</strong> diet; symptoms can appear in as little as<br />

a month and left untreated it can quickly lead to death<br />

from infection or bleeding. Or maybe <strong>the</strong> illness afflicting<br />

<strong>the</strong> Spaniards was an indigenous form <strong>of</strong> malaria?<br />

Ano<strong>the</strong>r possibility is a type <strong>of</strong> influenza that starts<br />

in pigs (H1N1). Pigs were first brought to <strong>the</strong> Americas<br />

on Columbus’s second voyage. The close association <strong>of</strong><br />

pigs and humans in confined ship spaces could implicate<br />

“swine flu” as an epidemic agent. (The transmission <strong>of</strong><br />

disease from infected animals to humans is called “zoonotic<br />

spillover.”) It is possible that <strong>the</strong> Spaniards who<br />

died at La Isabela succumbed to <strong>the</strong> flu, perhaps even a<br />

variant <strong>of</strong> swine flu, which <strong>the</strong>y could have introduced to<br />

Hispaniola as early as 1493. We may never know which<br />

diseases were introduced by <strong>the</strong> Spanish, although recent<br />

advances in ancient DNA research have identified <strong>the</strong><br />

genetic signatures <strong>of</strong> some diseases in human skeletons.<br />

Wear a mask, wash your hands,<br />

socially distance, get vaccinated<br />

In recent centuries, modern Indigenous communities in<br />

tropical South America have suffered <strong>the</strong> highest mortality<br />

(circa 25%) from measles, malaria and influenza<br />

epidemics. However, <strong>the</strong> first reported case <strong>of</strong> measles<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Americas dates to 1765, so measles is an unlikely<br />

candidate for a late 15th century epidemic. Less virulent<br />

strains <strong>of</strong> malaria were present in <strong>the</strong> pre-Colonial<br />

Americas. If present in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> Taíno<br />

may have developed some level <strong>of</strong> immunity. People<br />

who live in highly endemic malaria settings develop<br />

immunity to symptoms by puberty. Its main symptom is<br />

“cyclical” fevers, where <strong>the</strong> fevers rise and fall as parasites<br />

move between <strong>the</strong> liver and <strong>the</strong> blood stream to<br />

reproduce. This would explain how malaria might have<br />

had a greater impact on Spanish health and potentially<br />

deaths. Never<strong>the</strong>less, <strong>the</strong> most deadly malarial parasite<br />

(Plasmodium falciparum) was first transported to <strong>the</strong><br />

Americas with enslaved Africans beginning in <strong>the</strong> mid-<br />

1500s. Here again, malaria is not a good candidate for<br />

an earlier epidemic among <strong>the</strong> Taínos.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 33

This vintage illustration features Christopher Columbus in 1492 standing among his crew aboard <strong>the</strong> Santa Maria with <strong>the</strong> distant view <strong>of</strong> an<br />

island on <strong>the</strong> horizon. Interestingly, <strong>the</strong> Columbian Exchange went both ways and sometimes it was <strong>the</strong> colonizers who got sick. Historically,<br />

little attention has been paid to dead Colonial Spaniards, yet die <strong>the</strong>y did and at alarming rates.<br />

Influenza virus, a pathogen with known pandemic<br />

potential, was possibly introduced in <strong>the</strong> early years <strong>of</strong><br />

Spanish contact. However, <strong>the</strong> first reliable report <strong>of</strong><br />

influenza involved transmission from Africa to Europe<br />

in 1510, and flu does not spread very well in equatorial<br />

regions. We now know that influenza is particularly<br />

good at “escaping” our immune system through frequent<br />

viral evolution <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> virus that interacts with<br />

our immune system. Despite recent claims to <strong>the</strong> contrary,<br />

flu is a deadly disease that is today held in check<br />

by vaccines, <strong>the</strong>rapies and o<strong>the</strong>r medical interventions.<br />

In addition, mask wearing and social distancing during<br />

<strong>the</strong> current COVID-19 crisis contributed to a significant<br />

decline in influenza and o<strong>the</strong>r respiratory infections and<br />

deaths this year.<br />

The most stunning example <strong>of</strong> a deadly flu is <strong>the</strong><br />

“Great Influenza” <strong>of</strong> 1918. It occurred before a viral agent<br />

had been identified and spurred remarkable scientific<br />

efforts to develop a vaccine. Our modern Public Health<br />

Service was created to counter its spread. John Barry<br />

described how <strong>the</strong> initial outbreak in an army camp in<br />

Kansas blossomed into a global pandemic that killed as<br />

many as 100 million people worldwide. Although com-<br />

monly known as <strong>the</strong> “Spanish flu,” it did not originate<br />

<strong>the</strong>re. Ra<strong>the</strong>r, Spain had <strong>the</strong> only press in which <strong>the</strong><br />

epidemic was accurately reported. In <strong>the</strong> United States,<br />

where <strong>the</strong> virus originated, press coverage was tightly<br />

restricted at <strong>the</strong> height <strong>of</strong> World War I. The first victim in<br />

<strong>the</strong> politics <strong>of</strong> disease was any “real news” coverage <strong>of</strong><br />

this pandemic.<br />

Wear a mask, wash your hands,<br />

socially distance, get vaccinated<br />

We have saved <strong>the</strong> most deadly virgin soil pathogen<br />

for last: smallpox. Smallpox is estimated to have killed<br />

around 500 million people worldwide in <strong>the</strong> last century<br />

alone. Although “completely eradicated” in 1980, it has<br />

recently reappeared in some rare cases. With distinctive<br />

symptoms (red pustules or “pox”), it is ra<strong>the</strong>r unlikely to<br />

be misidentified even by non-medical personnel. The first<br />

smallpox pandemic in <strong>the</strong> Americas began in 1517, so it<br />

could not have been responsible for initial high mortality<br />

among <strong>the</strong> Taínos. Never<strong>the</strong>less, it was <strong>the</strong> final nail in<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir c<strong>of</strong>fin. A recorded Taíno population <strong>of</strong> 28,000 in<br />

1514 was reduced to only 250 by 1540.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> British colonies <strong>of</strong> North America, smallpox<br />

34 www.timespub.tc

TWATIMES_Layout 1 2/16/17 7:49 AM Page 1<br />

is infamous as <strong>the</strong> first biological weapon, with British<br />

colonists infecting local Natives and American soldiers<br />

reportedly distributing infected blankets out west. The<br />

disease ravaged Native communities in <strong>the</strong> United States<br />

until <strong>the</strong> 1880s, long after an effective vaccine had<br />

become available. In fact, attention to smallpox waned<br />

only after it was superseded by tuberculosis as <strong>the</strong> principal<br />

scourge <strong>of</strong> Native Americans.<br />

The histories <strong>of</strong> those lethal diseases (smallpox 1517,<br />

malaria 1550, measles 1765) show that <strong>the</strong>y could not<br />

have been responsible for a virgin soil epidemic during<br />

<strong>the</strong> first decades <strong>of</strong> European contact. This leaves influenza<br />

as <strong>the</strong> last remaining candidate, but <strong>the</strong> evidence is<br />

not conclusive.<br />

We’ll close this essay with <strong>the</strong> letter N, a ma<strong>the</strong>matical<br />

notation used to indicate <strong>the</strong> size <strong>of</strong> a population.<br />

Columbus’s bro<strong>the</strong>r Bartholomew supposedly counted a<br />

Taíno population <strong>of</strong> 1,100,000 in 1494. Often repeated<br />

in 16th century accounts, Las Casas eventually decided<br />

that <strong>the</strong> N was too small for <strong>the</strong> purposes <strong>of</strong> his polemic<br />

against <strong>the</strong> mistreatment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Natives. Within 30 years<br />

he first tripled and <strong>the</strong>n quadrupled <strong>the</strong> N to 4 million<br />

souls. Although <strong>the</strong> numbers were obviously inflated to<br />

serve a “moral” agenda, historians felt a need to explain<br />

<strong>the</strong> rapid demise <strong>of</strong> thriving Caribbean societies, and <strong>the</strong>y<br />

did so by proposing virgin soil epidemics caused by Old<br />

World diseases.<br />

Bottom line: It is unlikely that disease was <strong>the</strong> major<br />

factor in <strong>the</strong> depopulation <strong>of</strong> Hispaniola and demise <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Taínos at <strong>the</strong> dawn <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 16th century.<br />

In a future essay we’ll explore exciting new genetics<br />

research that could dramatically improve our ability<br />

to calculate past population numbers. By knowing how<br />

many people were susceptible, we can better appreciate<br />

<strong>the</strong> historical impacts <strong>of</strong> infectious diseases. There is still<br />

a lot to be learned about <strong>the</strong> letters R and N. In <strong>the</strong> meantime,<br />

wear a mask, wash your hands, socially distance<br />

and get vaccinated. a<br />

Dr. Lindsay Keegan is Research Assistant Pr<strong>of</strong>essor in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Division <strong>of</strong> Epidemiology (University <strong>of</strong> Utah); Dr.<br />

Betsy Carlson is Senior Archaeologist at Sou<strong>the</strong>astern<br />

Archaeological Research (SEARCH, Inc.) in Jonesville, FL;<br />

Dr. Michael Pateman is former Director <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos National Museum and currently Curator/Lab<br />

Director <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> AEX Maritime Museum on Grand Bahama;<br />

and Dr. Bill Keegan is Curator <strong>of</strong> Caribbean Archaeology<br />

at <strong>the</strong> Florida Museum <strong>of</strong> Natural History (University <strong>of</strong><br />

Florida).<br />

Serving international & domestic clients in real estate, property development,<br />

mortgages, corporate & commercial matters, immigration, & more.<br />


Taino Paintings<br />

by Theodore Morris<br />

tainopaintings.weebly.com<br />

mail:morris<strong>the</strong>odore@hotmail.com<br />

3910 Longhorn Dr - Sarasota, Fl34233<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 35

green pages<br />

Newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong> Environment & Coastal Resources<br />

Head <strong>of</strong>fice: Church Folly, Grand Turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895<br />

• Astwood Street, South Caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710<br />

• National Environmental Centre, Lower Bight Road, Providenciales<br />

Parks Division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793<br />

Fisheries Division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793<br />

email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web https://www.gov.tc/decr/<br />


When compared to <strong>the</strong> green iguana, native Turks & Caicos rock iguanas have stouter, heavier bodies with a tail only as long as <strong>the</strong> body<br />

and a dark khaki-green or blue-grey colour.<br />

The Green Invader<br />

New reporting hotline for green iguana sightings.<br />

By B Naqqi Manco, Acting Assistant Director <strong>of</strong> Environmental Research & Development, DECR<br />

Our very special endemic Turks & Caicos rock iguanas Cyclura carinata was recently down-listed on<br />

<strong>the</strong> International Union for <strong>the</strong> Conservation <strong>of</strong> Nature (IUCN) category from Critically Endangered to<br />

Endangered. This is due largely to decades <strong>of</strong> hard work by numerous institutions, including <strong>the</strong> San<br />

Diego Zoo, Caribbean Wildlife Foundation, Royal Society for <strong>the</strong> Protection <strong>of</strong> Birds, Turks & Caicos<br />

National Trust, Department <strong>of</strong> Environment & Coastal Resources, Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Department<br />

<strong>of</strong> Environmental Health, Ports Authority and o<strong>the</strong>rs.<br />

36 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

While <strong>the</strong>ir numbers have increased in some areas, a<br />

new threat to <strong>the</strong> rock iguanas has come to <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> in <strong>the</strong> form <strong>of</strong> a distant relative. The green<br />

iguana Iguana iguana has already become widespread on<br />

many o<strong>the</strong>r Caribbean islands where it is a serious threat<br />

to wildlife and infrastructure.<br />

Green iguanas are invasive in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> and differ from our endemic Turks & Caicos rock<br />

iguanas by being overall larger with much longer bodies<br />

and tails, and usually a brighter green colour. Native to<br />

Central and South America, <strong>the</strong>y pose a serious threat<br />

to our unique ecosystems and especially to <strong>the</strong> endemic<br />

rock iguanas. They carry a bacterial infection that is lethal<br />

to rock iguanas, <strong>the</strong>y can cause genetic pollution to rock<br />

iguanas by hybridization, and <strong>the</strong>y can also outcompete<br />

rock iguanas for food and resources. Unlike our rock<br />

iguanas which breed once a year and only lay 6–8 eggs,<br />

green iguanas breed year-round and can lay over 70 eggs<br />

in a clutch.<br />

Green iguanas have been sighted on Providenciales in<br />

in Grace Bay, as well as near Venetian Road, Leeward and<br />

South Dock and on Grand Turk around <strong>the</strong> airport and<br />

South Base. For years <strong>the</strong> Cayman <strong>Islands</strong> have been battling<br />

green iguanas, which severely threaten <strong>the</strong>ir endemic<br />

blue rock iguana Cyclura lewisi and Little Cayman rock<br />

iguana Cyclura nubila caymanensis. Unfortunately, <strong>the</strong><br />

speed at which green iguanas breed has been hard to<br />

overcome. In 2019, over one million green iguanas were<br />

culled in a massive conservation effort, but over 100,000<br />

are believed to have remained, so <strong>the</strong>y still outnumber<br />

<strong>the</strong> native iguana species by 1000 times.<br />

Green iguanas find <strong>the</strong>ir way into TCI mostly through<br />

imported materials—especially live plants—from south<br />

Florida and Hispaniola, where <strong>the</strong>y are also problematically<br />

invasive. Their eggs, laid in <strong>the</strong> loose, moist potting<br />

mix around plant roots in nurseries in o<strong>the</strong>r countries,<br />

can hatch after <strong>the</strong> plants arrive in TCI.<br />


When compared to <strong>the</strong> native TCI rock iguana, <strong>the</strong> Invasive green<br />

iguanas have an overall longer and more slender shape, a tail much<br />

longer than <strong>the</strong> body, and usually a bright green colour.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 37

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

G r e e n<br />

iguanas don’t<br />

just threaten<br />

our natural<br />

heritage. Due<br />

to <strong>the</strong>ir climbing<br />

habits, <strong>the</strong>y<br />

are also known<br />

to cause damaging<br />

power<br />

outages by<br />

climbing utility<br />

poles and<br />

severe vehicle<br />

damage by<br />

falling out <strong>of</strong><br />

trees. They can also strip agricultural crops and garden<br />

flowers bare, and foul swimming pools with <strong>the</strong>ir waste,<br />

which <strong>the</strong>y tend to release when swimming.<br />

The TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Environment & Coastal<br />

Resources (DECR), <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture, and<br />

Turks & Caicos National Trust request assistance from<br />

<strong>the</strong> general public for reports <strong>of</strong> sightings <strong>of</strong> invasive<br />

green iguanas in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, especially<br />

Providenciales and Grand Turk.<br />

Invasive green iguanas can now be reported to <strong>the</strong><br />

TCI Iguana Hotline by email at tciiguana@gmail.com or<br />

WhatsApp at +1649 344 8296. Photos and locations <strong>of</strong><br />

sighted green iguanas help our response team find <strong>the</strong>m<br />

more easily. a<br />


38 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

Sunsets mark a satisfying conclusion to <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day.<br />

Sunsets and Island Time<br />

A perfect pairing.<br />

Story & Photos By Ben Farmer, Waterfront Assistant, The School for Field Studies<br />

“Is it pretty tonight—<strong>the</strong> sunset?”<br />

“I’ve never seen a bad one.”<br />

This is a dialogue between two characters in Carl Hiaasen’s novel Skinny Dip. One character, Joey, is<br />

temporarily blind after a harrowing experience at sea, and Stranahan is describing <strong>the</strong> evening Florida<br />

Keys scenery to her. The concise acknowledgment by Stranahan that he has never seen a bad sunset is a<br />

concept that stuck with me. I began <strong>the</strong> book while living and working in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> and<br />

ever since <strong>the</strong>n, I have been much more aware <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sunsets that <strong>the</strong> TCI has to <strong>of</strong>fer.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 39

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

Sunset viewing is a popular custom around <strong>the</strong> world,<br />

especially in areas near <strong>the</strong> water. Crowds ga<strong>the</strong>r for<br />

drum circles on <strong>the</strong> beaches <strong>of</strong> Tel Aviv, Israel; sunset<br />

torch lightings and conch-blowing ceremonies are held<br />

on Honolulu beaches in <strong>the</strong> United States; Hindu people<br />

make pilgrimages to Kanyakumari, <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rnmost tip<br />

<strong>of</strong> India, where <strong>the</strong> sun sets over <strong>the</strong> confluence <strong>of</strong> three<br />

seas. Film-makers have long used sunsets to portray<br />

emotion in films and for good reason. The very nature <strong>of</strong><br />

viewing a sunset is romantic and speaks to humans on an<br />

innate level—it marks a satisfying, deep conclusion to <strong>the</strong><br />

day.<br />

In my experience, sunsets have a unique power to<br />

bring people toge<strong>the</strong>r. When I worked at The School for<br />

Field Studies (SFS) on South Caicos, I saw it happen with<br />

two different semesters <strong>of</strong> students. Ga<strong>the</strong>ring for sunsets<br />

became a nightly ritual, treated with excitement and<br />

respect. For some <strong>of</strong> us, this was an intentional commitment.<br />

For instance, we had a student who never missed a<br />

sunset in her time on South. For o<strong>the</strong>rs, sunset-watching<br />

was a sort <strong>of</strong> unspoken routine.<br />

“When <strong>the</strong> sun has set, no candle can replace it.”<br />

~ George R.R. Martin<br />

Sunsets invoke a sense <strong>of</strong> awe and ultimately, this<br />

is what gives <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong> power to bring people toge<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

Research shows that people feel more patient, satisfied<br />

with life and willing to volunteer time for o<strong>the</strong>rs after<br />

experiencing <strong>the</strong> emotion <strong>of</strong> awe. Additionally, awe<br />

expands our concept <strong>of</strong> time, making us feel that we have<br />

more time available in our lives. Considering <strong>the</strong> many<br />

awe-inspiring natural moments that happen daily in <strong>the</strong><br />

TCI, perhaps scientists would consider “island time” as<br />

more than merely a saying.<br />

Light plays an essential role in many <strong>of</strong> such natural<br />

phenomena: sunsets, rainbows, mirages and even green<br />

flashes. But what is <strong>the</strong> science behind <strong>the</strong>se beautiful<br />

tricks <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> light?<br />

There are a few unseen phenomena that allow you to<br />

watch a sunset. To understand <strong>the</strong>m, first consider how<br />

humans perceive light generally. Light travels in a straight<br />

line and only deviates from that path if an object, such as<br />

a tiny molecule or particle, gets in its way. When we look<br />

up at <strong>the</strong> sky during <strong>the</strong> day, we see blue. This is because<br />

as <strong>the</strong> light from <strong>the</strong> sun enters Earth’s atmosphere,<br />

nitrogen and oxygen molecules are in <strong>the</strong> light’s way.<br />

Light hits <strong>the</strong>se molecules and <strong>the</strong>n scatters in many different<br />

directions. All <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> colors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rainbow, which<br />


Viewing <strong>the</strong> daily sunset is a ritual for students and staff at The School for Field Studies in South Caicos.<br />

40 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

From top: As <strong>the</strong> sun dips below <strong>the</strong> horizon, colors with longer wavelength fill <strong>the</strong> sky. Rainbows are visible due to refraction within raindrops<br />

and subsequent reflection between <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

make up <strong>the</strong> light spectrum, are scattered. However, blue<br />

and violet light have <strong>the</strong> shortest wavelengths and highest<br />

frequencies, so <strong>the</strong>y are scattered most intensely by<br />

nitrogen and oxygen molecules. If that were all though,<br />

we would simply see purple-ish skies all <strong>the</strong> time. We see<br />

blue skies because human eyes are not able to perceive<br />

<strong>the</strong> violet hue in a combination <strong>of</strong> blue and violet, and<br />

instead we see just a mixture <strong>of</strong> pure blue and white light<br />

—or simply, blue.<br />

As <strong>the</strong> sun approaches <strong>the</strong> horizon, <strong>the</strong> angle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

sun relative to your vantage point on Earth changes. This<br />

mean that light rays must travel far<strong>the</strong>r through <strong>the</strong> atmosphere<br />

to reach your eyes. Blue light scatters out by this<br />

point, and <strong>the</strong> colors with longer wavelength—yellows,<br />


<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 41

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

floating islands on <strong>the</strong> horizon<br />

due to scattering between layers<br />

<strong>of</strong> air with different temperatures.<br />

Green flashes, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

most revered and elusive phenomena<br />

on Earth, are sometimes<br />

visible with very clear conditions.<br />

A combination <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mirage<br />

effect and <strong>the</strong> sun dipping below<br />

<strong>the</strong> horizon bring about this o<strong>the</strong>rworldly<br />

sight.<br />

The common <strong>the</strong>me with each<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se phenomena is that light<br />

bends in fantastic ways to produce<br />

an image that humans can<br />

witness. Sunsets, however, are<br />

<strong>the</strong> most reliable and can almost<br />

always be planned for—especially<br />

when you are on island time.<br />

Darrell’s Sunset Cafe, Cox Hotel<br />

and East Bay Resort are all excellent<br />

locations on South Caicos to<br />

see <strong>the</strong> beautiful oranges, pinks<br />

and purples <strong>of</strong> a TCI sunset.<br />

I worked on South Caicos<br />

for only a year, but that year<br />

has left an indelible impact. My<br />

coworkers became some <strong>of</strong> my<br />

closest friends, <strong>the</strong> community<br />

welcomed us with open arms, and<br />

we embraced island time wholeheartedly.<br />

From <strong>the</strong> high school<br />

There are many excellent locations on South Caicos to witness a beautiful TCI sunset.<br />

basketball tournaments, to <strong>the</strong><br />

oranges, and pinks—fill <strong>the</strong> horizon. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most Christmas tree lighting ceremony, to <strong>the</strong> lively Saturdays<br />

vibrant red sunsets in <strong>the</strong> world are found in Hawaii, due that included community swim lessons and marine crafts<br />

in part to <strong>the</strong> large amount <strong>of</strong> volcanic dust in <strong>the</strong> atmosphere<br />

as well as high humidity <strong>the</strong>re, which intensify well-being. That feeling became even clearer every time<br />

at SFS, <strong>the</strong>re was always a sense <strong>of</strong> strong community and<br />

<strong>the</strong> scattering effect. In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, red sunsets can we settled in for ano<strong>the</strong>r sunset toge<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

result from huge dust plumes coming in from <strong>the</strong> Sahara<br />

Desert, as <strong>the</strong>y did this past summer.<br />

“Never waste any amount <strong>of</strong> time doing anything<br />

Rainbows, ocean mirages and green flashes are all important when <strong>the</strong>re is a sunset outside that you<br />

caused by different forms <strong>of</strong> scattering, or refraction, as should be sitting under!” ~ C. JoyBell C. a<br />

well. Rainbows are visible due to refraction within raindrops<br />

and subsequent reflection between <strong>the</strong>m (but only For additional information about The School for Field<br />

when rainclouds don’t block <strong>the</strong> light, such as right after Studies, visit www.fieldstudies.org or contact us on<br />

a rainstorm subsides), and mirages create <strong>the</strong> illusion <strong>of</strong> South Caicos at hhertler@fieldstudies.org.<br />

42 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

Staff and students at The School for Field Studies station on South Caicos use learning and research to address environmental challenges.<br />

Study Abroad<br />

Celebrating three decades <strong>of</strong> learning and research.<br />

By Anna Handte-Reinecker, Program Assistant, The School for Field Studies<br />

Photos By Heidi Hertler, Director, The School for Field Studies<br />

The School for Field Studies (SFS) is a US-based, non-pr<strong>of</strong>it study abroad program for university students<br />

with field stations around <strong>the</strong> world. Its mission is to “create transformative study abroad experiences<br />

through field-based learning and research.” SFS operates through a multidisciplinary approach that incorporates<br />

social and ecological learning to address environmental challenges.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 43

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

The first cohort <strong>of</strong> 75 SFS students was sent into<br />

<strong>the</strong> field in <strong>the</strong> summer <strong>of</strong> 1981. These students traveled<br />

to different countries around <strong>the</strong> world from Kenya<br />

to Belize. In <strong>the</strong> spring <strong>of</strong> 1985, <strong>the</strong> Center for Marine<br />

Resource Studies (CMRS) was first opened although it was<br />

not where it is today on South Caicos. It was originally<br />

located on St. John at <strong>the</strong> Virgin <strong>Islands</strong> Environmental<br />

Resource Station on Lameshur Bay. In 1989, Hurricane<br />

Hugo devastated <strong>the</strong> Virgin <strong>Islands</strong> leading to <strong>the</strong> evacuation<br />

<strong>of</strong> students and staff. As a result <strong>of</strong> this hurricane,<br />

<strong>the</strong>re was a strong shift in class topics and discussions<br />

with an emphasis on <strong>the</strong> impacts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storm. Made possible<br />

by years <strong>of</strong> baseline data collection by SFS students<br />

and staff, this final cohort <strong>of</strong> students on St. John was<br />

able to evaluate <strong>the</strong> damage <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hurricane on both<br />

reefs and seagrass beds.<br />

Soon after, SFS purchased a small hotel on South<br />

Caicos in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>—<strong>the</strong> Admiral’s Arms<br />

Inn. CMRS relocated to its new home on South Caicos in<br />

<strong>the</strong> early 1990s. With funds provided by <strong>the</strong> Laurance S.<br />

Rockefeller Foundation, <strong>the</strong> center was able to upgrade<br />

its research equipment as well as provide scholarships.<br />

Upon arrival, SFS researchers began to focus on<br />

<strong>the</strong> conch and lobster exports <strong>of</strong> South Caicos, which<br />

had been decreasing significantly at <strong>the</strong> time. Research<br />

focused on understanding <strong>the</strong> potential causes <strong>of</strong> this<br />

decline, mapping marine habitats and generating species<br />

lists for <strong>the</strong> proposed Admiral Cockburn Land and Sea<br />

National Park.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> 30 years since SFS first arrived on South Caicos,<br />

students and staff have worked on countless research<br />

projects and have documented changes in marine life and<br />

habitats. In 2006 one <strong>of</strong> our current faculty, Dr. Caitlin<br />

O’Brien was a student at SFS TCI. As a student, Dr. O’Brien<br />

spent time working on shark and turtle tag and recapture<br />

projects in <strong>the</strong> waters near South Caicos. Long term projects<br />

such as <strong>the</strong>se document <strong>the</strong> natural history <strong>of</strong> South<br />

Caicos’ reefs, seagrass beds and shores. O<strong>the</strong>r projects<br />

include monitoring queen conch and lionfish populations<br />

and coral communities. Faculty and research partners also<br />

bring <strong>the</strong>ir experience and interests to SFS. All research is<br />

presented to <strong>the</strong> community <strong>of</strong> South Caicos on a semester<br />

basis.<br />

In 2017, SFS was once again faced with <strong>the</strong> devastating<br />

effects <strong>of</strong> hurricanes in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean. Hurricanes<br />

Irma and Maria hit <strong>the</strong> TCI back to back, leaving much <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> island and center destroyed. SFS students and staff<br />

were evacuated, with some joining <strong>the</strong> SFS Panama center<br />

for <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> semester. It took many months<br />

<strong>of</strong> hard work and dedication from staff to rebuild CMRS.<br />

Eventually, <strong>the</strong> center was able to reopen and welcome a<br />

new group <strong>of</strong> students.<br />

Just like in 1989 on St. John after Hurricane Hugo,<br />

long-term data collection has <strong>of</strong>fered important insight<br />

into <strong>the</strong> effects <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se hurricanes on <strong>the</strong> marine systems<br />

<strong>of</strong>f South Caicos. In addition to hurricanes, global<br />

warming and diseases have impacted <strong>the</strong> coral reef<br />

around South Caicos. With <strong>the</strong> historical data that has<br />

SFS students regularly interact with <strong>the</strong> South Caicos community with a variety <strong>of</strong> educational (and fun!) events.<br />

44 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

been collected, <strong>the</strong>se changes can be tracked and better<br />

understood.<br />

Today, students spend <strong>the</strong>ir time at CMRS pursuing<br />

coursework, conducting research and being involved<br />

with <strong>the</strong> community. SFS <strong>of</strong>fers a <strong>Spring</strong> and Fall semester<br />

as well as two summer sessions. Classes such as<br />

Environmental Policy, Resource Management and Marine<br />

Ecology are held during <strong>the</strong> fall and spring semesters. In<br />

<strong>the</strong> summer, Fundamentals <strong>of</strong> Marine Conservation and<br />

Marine Megafauna are <strong>of</strong>fered.<br />

Much has changed since SFS sent its first students<br />

into <strong>the</strong> field in 1981. SFS has grown significantly and now<br />

operates field stations in Australia, Bhutan, Cambodia,<br />

Chile, Costa Rica, Kenya, Panama, Peru, Tanzania and<br />

here in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Throughout moves<br />

across <strong>the</strong> Caribbean and difficult re-builds following<br />

hurricanes, CMRS has stayed strong. What has remained<br />

constant over <strong>the</strong> years is <strong>the</strong> dedication and enthusiasm<br />

<strong>of</strong> students and staff to work with <strong>the</strong> community<br />

<strong>of</strong> South Caicos to document and research <strong>the</strong> marine<br />

ecosystems which make <strong>the</strong> TCI “Beautiful by Nature.” a<br />

For additional information about The School for Field<br />

Studies, visit www.fieldstudies.org or contact us on<br />

South Caicos at hhertler@fieldstudies.org.<br />

Right: SFS students snorkel in <strong>the</strong> beautiful waters <strong>of</strong>f South Caicos,<br />

<strong>of</strong>ten documenting <strong>the</strong> natural history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> marine world.<br />

Below: The school’s pool is <strong>of</strong>ten <strong>the</strong> site <strong>of</strong> swimming lessons for<br />

local children.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 45

feature<br />

Opposite page: This pair <strong>of</strong> osprey call home a nest perched on a rock tower above Pirate’s Cove on <strong>the</strong> southwest point <strong>of</strong> Providenciales.<br />

Above: The author/photographer was lucky enough to see <strong>the</strong> male osprey bringing a freshly caught fish to feed <strong>the</strong> chicks in <strong>the</strong> nest.<br />

An Osprey Day<br />

Ready for <strong>the</strong> unexpected.<br />

Story & Photos By Lorna Rae Daniel-Dupree, Lorna Rae Photography<br />

Broken away from <strong>the</strong> mainland at West Harbour Bluff tands a sheer, sharp faced coral rock—a 30-foot<br />

high tower protruding out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean. Nestled on top, safe from human intervention, perches an osprey<br />

nest complete with a pair <strong>of</strong> chicks.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 47

It is January 1, <strong>2021</strong>. The day started as an excursion<br />

to see <strong>the</strong> Pirate Cove with my mum, dad and bro<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

This is my fourth visit to Providenciales, but <strong>the</strong> first time<br />

I am going to <strong>the</strong> cove. To say <strong>the</strong> least, 2020 was a<br />

strange year for everyone. After being separated from<br />

my family for an entire year, across three different countries,<br />

we were finally able to reunite over Christmas in <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. I was only supposed to stay for a<br />

week, but that week has turned into a month.<br />

I grew up in South Africa but now live in Los Angeles<br />

with my husband. We are both photographers and filmmakers<br />

who love going on adventures and being in nature<br />

observing wildlife. I have been fortunate enough to photograph<br />

many amazing creatures and it is a thrill every<br />

single time.<br />

There is nothing better than starting <strong>the</strong> year with<br />

a thrill. We arrive at <strong>the</strong> coordinates on <strong>the</strong> map. A stoic<br />

osprey is perched on a nearby rock. Admiring <strong>the</strong> sight, I<br />

think it is just a lucky coincidence. We continue towards<br />

<strong>the</strong> path to <strong>the</strong> cove when my dad points out in <strong>the</strong> distance<br />

a nest with a bird in silhouette. I think to myself,<br />

“That’s beautiful. I wonder how far that is?”<br />

We are exploring <strong>the</strong> cove when curiosity gets <strong>the</strong><br />

better <strong>of</strong> my mum and me. We decide to venture towards<br />

<strong>the</strong> nest. Ill-prepared for hiking, we make our way over<br />

<strong>the</strong> coral rocks in flip flops, fighting 24-knot winds.<br />

There it is. The nest atop its tower.<br />

Looking across <strong>the</strong> 20-foot gap are <strong>the</strong> nesting birds<br />

and below <strong>the</strong>m is <strong>the</strong> tumultuous turquoise ocean. I<br />

must admit, I am nervous as I approach <strong>the</strong> edge. It is a<br />

far drop and I surmise it would not be a pleasant fall. I get<br />

down onto my stomach and rest <strong>the</strong> camera against <strong>the</strong><br />

ledge so that <strong>the</strong> lens is completely cantilevered.<br />

It takes a few minutes for <strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r osprey to accept<br />

my presence. I wouldn’t say she appreciates it much, but<br />

it’s probably a comfort for her knowing that I can’t get<br />

any closer. The chicks chirp and fluff <strong>the</strong>ir fea<strong>the</strong>rs as <strong>the</strong><br />

mo<strong>the</strong>r keeps a beady eye on me.<br />

Suddenly, she starts calling out—loud and aggressively.<br />

I wonder, “Is she calling a mate? Or is she telling<br />

me to back <strong>of</strong>f?”<br />

As I lift my head from <strong>the</strong> eyepiece, I notice something<br />

in <strong>the</strong> distance. A wide-winged bird is flying towards us.<br />

It takes me a second to realize that it is <strong>the</strong> male carrying<br />

a fish in his talons. In a flush I keep repeating in shock, “I<br />

can’t believe this! Mum! He has a fish!! He has a fish!”<br />

He lands in a majestic swoop to chirping chicks. He<br />

hands <strong>the</strong> fish <strong>of</strong>f to <strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r who inspects it as he<br />

stands aside looking around <strong>the</strong> nest. As quickly as he<br />

landed he takes <strong>of</strong>f, on <strong>the</strong> hunt again.<br />

We receive a phone call from our hungry fa<strong>the</strong>r and<br />

bro<strong>the</strong>r waiting patiently at <strong>the</strong> car. I pack up my camera<br />

The mo<strong>the</strong>r osprey carefully breaks <strong>of</strong>f small<br />

bits <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fish to feed <strong>the</strong> hungry chicks.<br />

48 www.timespub.tc

The author is a wildlife photographer and has learned never to leave<br />

her camera behind.<br />

and crawl to a safer area before standing. One last look<br />

over my shoulder helps me absorb <strong>the</strong> beautiful moment.<br />

Lo and behold, <strong>the</strong> osprey mo<strong>the</strong>r is now feeding <strong>the</strong><br />

chicks.<br />

“I can come back,” I say to my mum. She convinces<br />

me to seize <strong>the</strong> moment and without much persuasion, I<br />

am back on <strong>the</strong> ledge with my camera.<br />

I am being squawked at feverishly, but I stay still.<br />

With what seems like a puff <strong>of</strong> frustration mama osprey<br />

stops and side-eyes me while continuing to pick at <strong>the</strong><br />

fish. The chicks are demanding <strong>the</strong>ir servings in turns<br />

while <strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r sneaks a piece for herself every now and<br />

<strong>the</strong>n.<br />

The phone rings again. I’ve lost track <strong>of</strong> time and now<br />

my family’s bellies are grumbling for some food too. I say<br />

goodbye and thank you to <strong>the</strong> birds. It seems cheesy but<br />

it’s important to me. We make our way back down <strong>the</strong><br />

path, excitement and exhilaration running through our<br />

veins from what we just witnessed.<br />

If <strong>the</strong>re is one thing I have learnt over <strong>the</strong> years, it<br />

is: Always expect <strong>the</strong> unexpected. It can seem laborious<br />

to lug camera equipment around for what seems to be a<br />

quick excursion but honestly, it’s worth it every time.<br />

Hopefully on my next trip to Providenciales, <strong>the</strong> nest<br />

will still be <strong>the</strong>re with a new family to photograph. a<br />

To see more <strong>of</strong> my adventures around <strong>the</strong> world, visit my<br />

Instagram @LornaRaePhotog.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 49


feature<br />

Opposite page: The beach is a place that links land to sea; nowhere more beautiful than in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

Above: Taking a close look into shallow waters reveals a treasure trove <strong>of</strong> tiny discoveries.<br />


In Plain Sight<br />

Treasures on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

By Melissa Heres, Waterfront Assistant, The School for Field Studies<br />

The beach has always been a special place for me, linking <strong>the</strong> land we traverse every day and <strong>the</strong> incredible<br />

ocean environment that looms below. This link, if it could talk, could share so many stories. The<br />

stories <strong>of</strong> how rocks have eroded over <strong>the</strong>ir journey from mountain tops to <strong>the</strong> beaches to create sand.<br />

Or <strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> how parrotfish gnaw at coral and leave behind digested white limestone, creating beautiful<br />

mounds <strong>of</strong> white sand beaches like those found in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 51

Walking along <strong>the</strong>se beaches, we can find little clues<br />

that can tell <strong>the</strong>ir story, if we only stop to listen. This<br />

includes anything from shells and coral skeletons to cameras<br />

and plastic. This is a journey you can take at any<br />

time and at your own pace. Let’s stroll along one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>’ beautiful beaches and explore <strong>the</strong><br />

wonders we can find.<br />

Our journey begins with <strong>the</strong> beautiful white sand.<br />

Although our sand doesn’t come from faraway mountain<br />

tops, its journey is no less extravagant. Those beautiful<br />

beaches that are so characteristic <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean are<br />

likely composed <strong>of</strong> calcium carbonate, or limestone, and<br />

wea<strong>the</strong>red-away bits <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> limestone islands. As rain and<br />

storms wash over <strong>the</strong> land, <strong>the</strong>y slowly erode away <strong>the</strong><br />

rocks and minerals that make up <strong>the</strong>se islands, which can<br />

end up as sand on <strong>the</strong> beaches.<br />

But how does limestone find its way onto <strong>the</strong> beach?<br />

This limestone actually plays a huge role in our oceans<br />

and is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> magical links between those mysterious<br />

depths and our morning beach walks.<br />

Animals such as corals, mollusks and echinoderms<br />

(think sea stars, sea biscuits and sand dollars) rely on<br />

calcium carbonate to build <strong>the</strong>ir shells or skeletons. After<br />

<strong>the</strong>se organisms die, <strong>the</strong>ir shells or skeletons can be<br />

eroded by wave energy and end up as sand. More inter-<br />

Above: Unlike live sand dollars which have hair-like projections, a<br />

sand dollar test (skeleton) will be smooth.<br />

Below: Dead and dried out gorgonians, <strong>the</strong> main prey <strong>of</strong> flamingo<br />

tongue snails, are <strong>of</strong>ten found along TCI’s beaches.<br />



52 www.timespub.tc


Scallop shells come in a variety <strong>of</strong> colors and sizes.<br />

estingly, parrotfish actually use <strong>the</strong>ir specialized beaks<br />

(hence <strong>the</strong>ir names) to eat live corals as a snack, digesting<br />

<strong>the</strong> coral tissue and processing <strong>the</strong> now-pulverized<br />

coral skeleton as waste. Those <strong>of</strong> you coral lovers, like<br />

myself, might be wondering if parrotfish are bad for coral<br />

reefs, considering <strong>the</strong>y spend all day eating coral. In fact,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y also eat a lot <strong>of</strong> macroalgae, which is detrimental to<br />

reef health, and allowing parrotfish to thrive is vital to<br />

keep our reefs beautiful.<br />

Moving down <strong>the</strong> beach, we can keep finding treasures.<br />

The most obvious find for a beachcomber might be<br />

<strong>the</strong> beautiful shells <strong>of</strong> gastropods. Although <strong>the</strong> following<br />

list is far from comprehensive, it will give you some<br />

insight into what you might find on <strong>the</strong> beaches <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

TCI and <strong>the</strong> stories <strong>the</strong>y can tell.<br />

Conch<br />

Perhaps <strong>the</strong> most well-known and identifiable shell you<br />

might stumble upon is <strong>the</strong> queen conch shell. With its<br />

recognizable rosy pink interior and flamboyant flared lip,<br />

this conch isn’t just good eating—it’s featured prominently<br />

on <strong>the</strong> TCI’s national flag. Many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> conch you<br />

will stumble upon are likely “knocked,” where a hammer<br />

and chisel have been used to open a rectangular mark in<br />

<strong>the</strong> spire to extract <strong>the</strong> conch meat.<br />

Easily confused with queen conch are milk conch, as<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir exteriors might look similar to someone unfamiliar<br />

with conch. Milk conch, however, tend to have thicker lips<br />

that don’t flare quite as much. These conch also lack <strong>the</strong><br />

characteristic pink interior and instead have a milky white<br />

interior, hence <strong>the</strong>ir name.<br />

Scallops<br />

Scallops can come in all kinds <strong>of</strong> beautiful color variations.<br />

They can be differentiated from o<strong>the</strong>r shells by<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir distinct auricles, or ear-like projections on <strong>the</strong> right<br />

and left sides <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> shell ligament.<br />

Flamingo Tongues<br />

Flamingo tongues are beautifully orange and white colored<br />

creatures underwater. Once dead, however, <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

shells are a stark white because <strong>the</strong>ir coloring comes<br />

from <strong>the</strong>ir mantle, a thin layer <strong>of</strong> tissue that covers <strong>the</strong><br />

shell.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 53

will lack this hairy tissue and will feel like a hard bonelike<br />

material. Also, live sand dollars tend to be dark grey,<br />

whereas <strong>the</strong>ir tests will be a lighter grey color.<br />

You might also come upon coral skeletons during<br />

your walk. Live coral is always attached to a sturdy substrate<br />

and is covered by a thin layer <strong>of</strong> tissue, with <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

skeleton underneath it. Corals are actually animals and<br />

are also carnivorous! When <strong>the</strong>se corals die, however,<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir tissue disappears and all that is left is <strong>the</strong>ir skeleton.<br />

Small indentations, or corallites, were <strong>the</strong> backbone<br />

that protected <strong>the</strong> coral’s polyps. Oftentimes it is actually<br />

possible to identify a coral species based on its skeleton.<br />


Conch shells can be turned into musical instruments. This conch horn<br />

is being played by its creator, Anna Handte-Reinecker.<br />

Tests & Skeletons<br />

Besides shells, <strong>the</strong>re are a variety <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r links between<br />

land and sea that can be found. One example are tests.<br />

Tests are <strong>the</strong> interior, calcified skeletons that are created<br />

by sea urchins, sand dollars and sea biscuits.<br />

Especially when finding sand dollars, it’s important to<br />

make sure that <strong>the</strong>y’re not alive! Live sand dollars <strong>of</strong>ten<br />

have hairy projections, while dead tests <strong>of</strong> sand dollars<br />

Sea Glass<br />

Sea glass is a common sight on TCI’s beaches. Varying<br />

in color from green to brown and even <strong>the</strong> occasional<br />

purple, this sea glass is sought-after for jewelry and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

decorations.<br />

As a staff member at The School for Field Studies<br />

Center for Marine Resource Studies (SFS CMRS) on South<br />

Caicos, I’m met with a lot <strong>of</strong> questions concerning what<br />

students find on beaches, rocky shorelines and in <strong>the</strong><br />

water. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most fulfilling aspects <strong>of</strong> this job is<br />

watching <strong>the</strong>se students grow. As <strong>the</strong> semester progresses,<br />

students become more aware <strong>of</strong> what <strong>the</strong>y might<br />

find in <strong>the</strong> marine environment. Not only are <strong>the</strong>y learning<br />

about what <strong>the</strong>y find, but <strong>the</strong>y are becoming invested<br />

in preserving <strong>the</strong> wonderful world that lies beneath <strong>the</strong><br />

waves and <strong>the</strong>y begin educating each o<strong>the</strong>r about marine<br />

life. My hope is that <strong>the</strong>y take <strong>the</strong> knowledge <strong>the</strong>y’ve<br />

gained from <strong>the</strong> small island <strong>of</strong> South Caicos and spread<br />

it back home to <strong>the</strong>ir family, back at school to <strong>the</strong>ir peers,<br />

and around <strong>the</strong> world—just like ocean currents would<br />

carry a shell.<br />

54 www.timespub.tc


A final thought to those <strong>of</strong> you inspired to find your<br />

own treasures on <strong>the</strong> beach. Please respect <strong>the</strong> ocean<br />

and marine life and return your collection to <strong>the</strong> sea after<br />

your walk (except sea glass, which can be brought home<br />

without any negative effects on <strong>the</strong> environment). Shells<br />

can provide homes to different marine creatures, so it’s<br />

important to assure <strong>the</strong>y have protection from predators.<br />

Also, make sure that whatever shells you pick up aren’t<br />

inhabited by anything, such as a roaming hermit crab. If<br />

<strong>the</strong>re is a stowaway, place <strong>the</strong> shell back where you found<br />

it in order to let <strong>the</strong> creature continue its day. a<br />




56 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe<br />

newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Front Street, PO Box 188, Grand Turk, Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI TKCA 1ZZ<br />

tel 649 247 2160/US incoming 786 220 1159 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org<br />


Video recording is a crucial tool in recording irreplaceable memories. Here, former Museum Director Michael Pateman interviews TCI centenarian<br />

Alton Higgs.<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are like a beautifully woven tapestry <strong>of</strong> rich histories, cultures and traditions.<br />

However, many factors—from climatic events such as hurricanes and floods, to <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong> traditional<br />

practitioners, to time itself—threaten <strong>the</strong> very existence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se irreplaceable, intangible aspects <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

heritage. Video recording is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> crucial tools in <strong>the</strong> permanent recording <strong>of</strong> TCI’s unique culture<br />

and history for generations to come.<br />

In this edition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Astrolabe, we discuss <strong>the</strong> process <strong>of</strong> using video to dive into heritage. In Telling<br />

a Caicos Sloop Story, I and Vanessa Forbes-Pateman explain <strong>the</strong> People <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> Video Project,<br />

including <strong>the</strong> launch <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> trailer, and provide details into <strong>the</strong> methodology used. In Filming <strong>the</strong> East<br />

Caicos Expedition Documentary, Mat<strong>the</strong>w Matlack discusses his experience <strong>of</strong> filming on East Caicos, a<br />

project discussed in articles in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> 2020 Astrolabe. Both projects will be submitted to <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />

& Caicos Film Festival <strong>2021</strong>.<br />

On Candid Camera<br />

Do you have an artistic, historic or cultural research question or article you would like to submit to<br />

<strong>the</strong> Astrolabe? Contact us at info@tcmuseum.org. a<br />

Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Ph.D., former Director, Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 57

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

This is one <strong>of</strong> James Dean’s boats in Blue Hills, Providenciales. James notes that his grandfa<strong>the</strong>r, fa<strong>the</strong>r, uncles and bro<strong>the</strong>rs were all boat<br />

builders, a skill that has been passed down to his sons and nephews.<br />

People <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Telling “A Caicos Sloop Story.”<br />

Story and Photos By Michael P. Pateman, Ph.D. and Vanessa A. Forbes-Pateman<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Summer 2019 Astrolabe, we introduced “People <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.” This project seeks to tell <strong>the</strong> story<br />

<strong>of</strong> “Islanders” through a first-person narrative. The various interview topics include boat building, food/<br />

cooking, bush medicine, island migration, cultural traditions, music, dance, story-telling and much more.<br />

After many delays, including <strong>the</strong> COVID-19 pandemic and a new job, we are excited to launch <strong>the</strong> first<br />

video documentary for People <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, A Caicos Sloop Story.<br />

This article is our narrative <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> experience and reactions from filming <strong>the</strong> interviews on traditional<br />

boat building in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. We will switch <strong>the</strong> first-person narrative between Michael and<br />

Vanessa, as our personal experience is vital to telling <strong>the</strong> story.<br />

58 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

When Michael first arrived in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos as<br />

director <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> national museum, he was amazed with<br />

how similar but different <strong>the</strong> cultural traditions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are compared to The Bahamas.<br />

One <strong>of</strong> his main goals as director was to explore and<br />

experience <strong>the</strong>se cultural traditions so that <strong>the</strong> museum<br />

can do a better job <strong>of</strong> presenting <strong>the</strong>m to residents and<br />

visitors to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se traditions is <strong>the</strong> building<br />

<strong>of</strong> native Caicos sloops.<br />

This journey started on February 16, 2019 at <strong>the</strong><br />

annual Valentine’s Cup, hosted by <strong>the</strong> Middle Caicos<br />

Co-op on Bambarra Beach, Middle Caicos. The Valentine’s<br />

Cup is a regatta using model Caicos sloops enjoyed by<br />

locals and visitors <strong>of</strong> all ages.<br />

While waiting for <strong>the</strong> event to begin, I walked around<br />

to interview attendees. Fortunately, <strong>the</strong> first people I met<br />

are both members <strong>of</strong> different TCI boat building families,<br />

Wing Dean and Brodie Forbes. They both spoke with<br />

fondness <strong>of</strong> childhood memories <strong>of</strong> building model boats<br />

out <strong>of</strong> gum elemi trees with <strong>the</strong>ir friends. Historically,<br />

children would ga<strong>the</strong>r logs from <strong>the</strong> gum elemi tree and<br />

carve smaller versions <strong>of</strong> Caicos sloops, complete with<br />

sails and rigging, and race <strong>the</strong>m in sheltered waters.<br />

That evening I called Vanessa excited about <strong>the</strong><br />

information I had ga<strong>the</strong>red that day. I expressed shock<br />

that we didn’t have something similar in The Bahamas.<br />

However, Vanessa was surprised as she thought it was<br />

a common childhood practice. While both <strong>of</strong> us are from<br />

The Bahamas, we had different childhood experiences.<br />

Similar to most Bahamian families, we can trace our familiar<br />

history to various family islands, Michael (Cat Island<br />

and Berry <strong>Islands</strong>) and Vanessa (Andros and Exuma).<br />

However, multiple generations <strong>of</strong> Michael’s family were<br />

born on New Providence whereas Vanessa’s parents were<br />

both born on Andros.This is similar in that many children<br />

who grow up in Providenciales do not have <strong>the</strong> same cultural<br />

experiences as those from <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r islands.<br />

Vanessa recounts stories similar to Wing and Brodie’s.<br />

She recalls, “The most exciting part <strong>of</strong> getting my own<br />

model boat was choosing <strong>the</strong> tree it would be sculpted<br />

from. I excitedly watched and helped my uncle, knowing<br />

upon completion <strong>the</strong> best part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> summer is <strong>the</strong><br />

model boat regatta and I always wanted to win—which<br />

child doesn’t? Model boat regatta day was <strong>the</strong> highlight,<br />

nobody slept <strong>the</strong> night before and you kept your eye on<br />

your boat in case one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cousins tried to sabotage<br />

Top: Pastor “Gold” Williams sails his model sloop.<br />

Above: “Wing” Dean (left) and Brodie Forbes speak with fondness <strong>of</strong><br />

childhood memories <strong>of</strong> building model boats.<br />

you. We barely ate breakfast since we were so excited to<br />

get down to <strong>the</strong> bay to race our boats. There’s nothing<br />

quite like seeing <strong>the</strong> wind catch your sails and your boat<br />

take <strong>of</strong>f; you couldn’t hear much from all <strong>the</strong> excitement,<br />

sound, colour, smell <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> food and <strong>the</strong> sea. The buildup<br />

to <strong>the</strong> regatta made summering on <strong>the</strong> family islands<br />

<strong>the</strong> best part <strong>of</strong> getting sent <strong>the</strong>re from <strong>the</strong> capital <strong>of</strong><br />

Nassau.”<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 59

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

This historic photo shows <strong>the</strong> last sloop built by Hedley Forbes. Note <strong>the</strong> sharp point <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bow.<br />

Before continuing we decided a to get a historical<br />

perspective on <strong>the</strong> Caicos sloops by interviewing David<br />

Douglas from <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Sailing Association.<br />

David is involved in <strong>the</strong> Caicos Sloop Heritage Project,<br />

whose mission is revitalizing <strong>the</strong> building <strong>of</strong> Caicos<br />

sloops through “One Design,” a method that allows<br />

<strong>the</strong> boats to be built and raced on a regular basis. He<br />

described how historically, <strong>the</strong> local sloops were <strong>the</strong><br />

lifeblood <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Small boats were used to fish,<br />

and catch conch and o<strong>the</strong>r seafood, while larger vessels<br />

were used to trade those products mostly with Hispaniola<br />

(Haiti and <strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic). They were also used<br />

to carry cargo around <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> (similar to trucks today),<br />

as ambulances to move <strong>the</strong> sick, and as “water taxis” to<br />

move passengers from island to island.<br />

David provided us with background on <strong>the</strong> differences<br />

between <strong>the</strong> Caicos and Bahamian sloops. The<br />

Caicos sloops were more wea<strong>the</strong>rly, designed to travel<br />

fur<strong>the</strong>r distances than <strong>the</strong>ir counterparts in The Bahamas.<br />

Also, <strong>the</strong> Caicos sloops were created as work vessels,<br />

especially on Grand Turk and Salt Cay, to move salt from<br />

<strong>the</strong> islands to <strong>the</strong> larger vessels anchored <strong>of</strong>fshore.<br />

Next, we went back to Middle Caicos to interview<br />

Hedley Forbes, <strong>the</strong> last <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> senior boat builders living<br />

on Middle Caicos. Hedley is Brodie’s fa<strong>the</strong>r. We met<br />

Hedley at his home in Bambarra. (Of note, Hedley was<br />

involved in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean Research Foundation’s project<br />

to document traditional boat building in 1984 on Grand<br />

Turk. More details <strong>of</strong> this project can be found on <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos National Museum’s website.)<br />

Although considered one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> foremost boat buildings<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, Hedley does not identify as a<br />

boat builder, but as a carpenter. Both skills he learnt from<br />

his grandfa<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

Hedley described how <strong>the</strong> skills he developed building<br />

boats informed his carpentry skills and vice versa.<br />

For example, he learnt that a sharp-hulled boat moves<br />

through <strong>the</strong> wind and waves <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean easier than one<br />

with a wider hull. He took this design element and incorporated<br />

it in <strong>the</strong> construction <strong>of</strong> his ro<strong>of</strong>, which he states<br />

has received very little damage through <strong>the</strong> various hurricanes<br />

that have impacted <strong>the</strong> country.<br />

Our next stop was Blue Hills, Providenciales to meet<br />

with <strong>the</strong> Deans, a prominent boat building family <strong>of</strong><br />

Bermudian descent. First, we interviewed James Dean Sr.,<br />

<strong>the</strong> patriarch <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> family. James notes that his grandfa<strong>the</strong>r,<br />

fa<strong>the</strong>r, uncles and bro<strong>the</strong>rs were all boat builders, a<br />

skill that has been passed down to his sons and nephews.<br />

60 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

He fondly recalled memories <strong>of</strong> looking out to <strong>the</strong> bay in<br />

Blue Hills and seeing <strong>the</strong> masts <strong>of</strong> numerous anchored<br />

Caicos sloops. James also spoke about <strong>the</strong> regattas,<br />

especially his competitions with Carl Ewing, Hilly Ewing,<br />

Hedley Forbes and “Hearts” Capron. An interesting design<br />

note—<strong>the</strong> Dean vessels have a wider hull when compared<br />

with <strong>the</strong> designs <strong>of</strong> Hedley Forbes. Both builders<br />

claim <strong>the</strong>ir technique is <strong>the</strong> best for speed and control<br />

in <strong>the</strong> water. Over his career James built over 50 Caicos<br />

sloops <strong>of</strong> various sizes, <strong>the</strong> last in 2009, which he named<br />

Wildfire.<br />

After <strong>the</strong> interview, we were shown some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Dean<br />

fleet that were destroyed in 2017 by Hurricanes Irma<br />

and Maria. Wing Dean told us that he was building a new<br />

sloop at his home and invited us to view his work. We<br />

were excited by this opportunity because although many<br />

sloops were lost during <strong>the</strong> 2017 hurricanes, we could<br />

not find anyone building a new Caicos sloop.<br />

A few months later, Michael visited Wing, to interview<br />

him and observe him building his new sloop. The interview<br />

focused on <strong>the</strong> differences between <strong>the</strong> traditional<br />

(historic) and contemporary methods for building sloops.<br />

Traditionally, boat builders would go into <strong>the</strong> forests and<br />

harvest <strong>the</strong> locust tree to build <strong>the</strong> frames and Caicos<br />

pine for <strong>the</strong> planking, masts and spars, with <strong>the</strong> entire<br />

vessel being constructed with hand tools. Today, lumber<br />

is purchased from hardware stores with metal masts,<br />

and construction is almost exclusively with power tools.<br />

Although <strong>the</strong> tools and techniques have evolved, modern<br />

builders follow <strong>the</strong> traditional design techniques.<br />

The final documentary will be submitted to <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />

& Caicos Film Festival <strong>2021</strong>. Follow people<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islands.<br />

com and our social media channels to be kept up to date<br />

on <strong>the</strong> release <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> trailer for a Caicos Sloop Story, full<br />

interviews, and <strong>the</strong> release <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> full documentary.<br />

The 2017 hurricane season was devastating for traditional<br />

Caicos sloops. Many were lost and <strong>the</strong> traditional<br />

regatta grounds in South Caicos were destroyed. With<br />

projects like this documentary, <strong>the</strong> One Design program<br />

and <strong>the</strong> programs launched by <strong>the</strong> TCI Department <strong>of</strong><br />

Culture, we hope that this art can be revitalized. a<br />

Thanks to Martin and Donna Seim, Director’s Welcome<br />

Grant for Projects (purchased Camera gear) and Brian<br />

Riggs, donation from Quiz Night to <strong>the</strong> museum.<br />

Not every interview made it into this article. O<strong>the</strong>rs interviewed<br />

include: Cardinal Arthur, Middle Caicos; Kendal<br />

Butler, Bahamas; George Dean, Providenciales; “Pringle”<br />

Dean, Providenciales; Elbert Higgs, North Caicos; JJ<br />

Parker, Providenciales; Timothy “T-boy” Robinson, Middle<br />

Caicos; Wilton Selver, Salt Cay; Curtis Simmons, Grand<br />

Turk; Eustace and Alfred Williams, North Caicos; and<br />

Pastor Goldstein Williams, Providenciales.<br />

“Wing” Dean constructs a new sloop at his home.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 61

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Documentary photographer Mat<strong>the</strong>w Matlack had to carry everything on <strong>the</strong> plane to ensure <strong>the</strong> equipment wasn’t delayed in transport. He<br />

had to be extremely selective <strong>of</strong> what he’d take. These are <strong>the</strong> tools he used to do <strong>the</strong> job.<br />

Selective Packing<br />

The nitty-gritty <strong>of</strong> filming <strong>the</strong> East Caicos Expedition documentary<br />

By Mat<strong>the</strong>w Matlack ~ Photos by Mat<strong>the</strong>w Matlack and John Galleymore<br />

Filming <strong>the</strong> East Caicos Expedition documentary was a thrilling endeavor. I had not been camping in<br />

years, I had just one experience under my belt filming in caves (which had a gift shop with snacks at <strong>the</strong><br />

entrance), and <strong>the</strong> film’s budget was modest to say <strong>the</strong> least. It sounded like a perfect adventure!<br />

62 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

I blame John Galleymore for my involvement. I first<br />

met John several years ago through our combined love <strong>of</strong><br />

Potcake dogs and our dedication to helping <strong>the</strong>m. John<br />

helped my family with <strong>the</strong> adoption <strong>of</strong> our first Potcake<br />

which began our friendship. John’s history is worth an<br />

article all on its own, but his exploration <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> has led him on many adventures. (Follow<br />

Beyond TCI on social media.)<br />

I also met Turks & Caicos National Museum Director<br />

Michael Pateman through John. My wife and I were on a<br />

two-day excursion to Salt Cay by way <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk. Of<br />

course, we stopped by <strong>the</strong> museum on Grand Turk to<br />

explore and shoot some photos and videos, and Michael<br />

was kind enough to show us around.<br />

When <strong>the</strong> museum gave <strong>the</strong> go-ahead to explore East<br />

Caicos, Michael knew John Galleymore, and o<strong>the</strong>r local<br />

guide masters, Agile and Daniel LeVin, would be critical<br />

to <strong>the</strong> success <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mission. John knew that I was a documentary<br />

filmmaker and requested that I come along to<br />

document <strong>the</strong> expedition. I was excited to be invited and<br />

<strong>the</strong> logistics began to come toge<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

I think we had to postpone <strong>the</strong> trip a couple <strong>of</strong> times<br />

John Galleymore and Mat Matlack are packed up and ready to launch<br />

<strong>the</strong> East Caicos Expedition.<br />

until October 2019 due to wea<strong>the</strong>r conditions. The last<br />

thing we wanted was to be on an uninhabited island<br />

during a tropical storm or worse, and Hurricane Dorian<br />

ravaged <strong>the</strong> Bahamas in early September. We knew it<br />

would be a very hot and mosquito laden time to be on<br />

East Caicos, but we forged ahead with <strong>the</strong> adventure.<br />

This is <strong>the</strong> audio and video gear used on <strong>the</strong> East Caicos expedition. In addition, a laptop computer was brought along on <strong>the</strong> journey.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 63

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Mat Matlack films former Museum Director Michael Pateman on <strong>the</strong> beach at East Caicos.<br />

Gear<br />

When necessary, I travel light. Very light. I was <strong>the</strong> sole<br />

member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> film crew. This would be run-and-gun<br />

documentary filmmaking. Since <strong>the</strong> film’s budget didn’t<br />

allow for extra days <strong>of</strong> travel, I had to carry everything<br />

on <strong>the</strong> plane to ensure <strong>the</strong> equipment wasn’t delayed in<br />

transport. I had all <strong>the</strong> typical things like clo<strong>the</strong>s and toiletries<br />

with me, but also cameras, tripods, microphones,<br />

drones, etc. So, I had to be extremely selective <strong>of</strong> what I’d<br />

bring. Here is <strong>the</strong> list <strong>of</strong> equipment I chose.<br />

Sony A7iii with Tamron 28-74mm Lens<br />

This was my primary camera. It takes great photos and<br />

great video. There are cameras that do better photos and<br />

ones that capture better video, but this Sony does a fantastic<br />

job at both. The lens is a great all-around zoom that<br />

has a 2.8 f-stop allowing it to capture decent images in<br />

low light conditions like inside a cave.<br />

Canon G7Xii<br />

This is a small point and shoot camera. It’s perfect for<br />

vlogging and I keep it on my belt for quick access like a<br />

gunslinger with his holster. Throw this camera into automode<br />

and it’s hard to miss <strong>the</strong> shot. This is critical while<br />

on a documentary, especially when <strong>the</strong> travelling is part<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> experience you are documenting.<br />

GoPro Session<br />

This is an even smaller camera. It’s a little 1.5-inch cube. I<br />

had to make a very hard decision to leave my underwater<br />

housing for <strong>the</strong> Canon camera at home. There just wasn’t<br />

room in <strong>the</strong> carry-on bags. I thought, “I’m going to one <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> most beautiful ocean locations in <strong>the</strong> world and I’m<br />

not going to take my underwater camera housing. What?”<br />

But, <strong>the</strong> GoPro Session was going to have to suffice for<br />

any underwater filming. It does a decent job, and I knew<br />

99% <strong>of</strong> our time would be on land.<br />

Energen Dronemax<br />

This is <strong>the</strong> unit that took up <strong>the</strong> space <strong>of</strong> my underwater<br />

housing. We’d be on East Caicos without any power for<br />

three days. I have several batteries for <strong>the</strong> cameras, but<br />

not for three days <strong>of</strong> filming, especially flying a drone.<br />

It’s heavy and it’s bulky, but it would allow me to charge<br />

64 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

all my batteries at least once and perhaps a couple times<br />

during <strong>the</strong> trip. It proved most helpful!<br />

DJI Mavic Pro<br />

This is <strong>the</strong> drone I took. It wasn’t my best drone, but it<br />

was my smallest drone. I knew that a long, hard hike<br />

would probably be part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> expedition. I didn’t want<br />

to carry a large, heavy drone for miles across treacherous<br />

terrain, not to mention space in <strong>the</strong> travel bags.<br />

Microphones<br />

One Rode VideoMic Pro and two Tascam DR-10L lapel<br />

mic/recorders made up my audio capture equipment. I<br />

feel that audio is <strong>the</strong> most important part <strong>of</strong> any video,<br />

so ensuring we had decent audio capture was essential—<br />

while keeping things simple. This proved to be difficult<br />

regardless <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> equipment. Usually, you’d have an<br />

audio person focusing on just <strong>the</strong> audio. But again, I was<br />

a one-man crew doing run-and-gun shooting. You have<br />

to keep it simple.<br />

I had some issues with <strong>the</strong> DJI Mavic Pro drone, with<br />

it operating a bit sporadically and changing how it was<br />

capturing video randomly. I thought I was going to lose<br />

control <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> drone a couple times when it was being<br />

unresponsive. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> footage was very hard to<br />

recover with strong color changes being applied in-camera<br />

to <strong>the</strong> video. But, <strong>the</strong> aerial footage ended up adding<br />

some majestic imagery to <strong>the</strong> documentary.<br />

The GoPro was a bit disappointing. Most <strong>of</strong> my underwater<br />

filming with this camera had been in open water<br />

Accessories<br />

There were many o<strong>the</strong>r accessories needed too. A Lume<br />

Cube light, a small travel tripod, memory cards, extra batteries,<br />

portable hard drives, a stabilization gimbal, plus<br />

a MacBook Pro laptop and all <strong>the</strong> charging cables needed<br />

for <strong>the</strong> cameras and computer.<br />

Travel<br />

Once I had my bags packed to <strong>the</strong> max, I was ready<br />

for <strong>the</strong> expedition to begin. My travel from <strong>the</strong> U.S. to<br />

Providenciales was fairly uneventful. John and I packed up<br />

<strong>the</strong> camping gear after I landed, along with all <strong>the</strong> camera<br />

equipment, and we were ready for an early morning<br />

start to <strong>the</strong> adventure. We took a car to <strong>the</strong> ferry dock,<br />

<strong>the</strong> ferry to North Caicos, a rental car to Middle Caicos,<br />

<strong>the</strong>n two flats boats to get us and <strong>the</strong> gear to East Caicos.<br />

We’d also use <strong>the</strong> boats to get from basecamp to various<br />

places on <strong>the</strong> island to begin hiking to <strong>the</strong> caves and<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r points <strong>of</strong> interest.<br />

Mat Matlack enjoys fresh fish caught by boat captain, Leif Erickson,<br />

and vegetables prepared by guidemaster, Daniel LeVin<br />

with lots <strong>of</strong> sunlight coming through. The darkness <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> cave proved a bit too much for this small camera to<br />

handle and I really missed my underwater housing for <strong>the</strong><br />

Canon. But, having <strong>the</strong> Energen battery bank in lieu <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

housing due to <strong>the</strong> lack <strong>of</strong> space in <strong>the</strong> luggage was <strong>the</strong><br />

right choice.<br />

Filming<br />

I was very happy with my choice <strong>of</strong> equipment. The<br />

Sony A7iii performed fantastically. It’s low-light capability<br />

worked great in <strong>the</strong> caves for both photos and video<br />

capture. The Canon G7Xii kept its spot as <strong>the</strong> most convenient<br />

camera I own and was <strong>the</strong>re to capture many critical<br />

moments <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> story.<br />

Releasing <strong>the</strong> documentary<br />

We had plans to submit <strong>the</strong> film to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

International Film Festival in 2020. But, due to <strong>the</strong> pandemic,<br />

it was postponed until <strong>2021</strong>. With our eyes set on<br />

several festivals in <strong>the</strong> coming months, <strong>the</strong> film will be<br />

released as those come to fruition. Keep up to date with<br />

<strong>the</strong> release <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> film at EastCaicosExpedition.com. a<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 65

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Museum Matters<br />

Volunteers needed in Providenciales<br />

The Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation is<br />

seeking <strong>the</strong> help <strong>of</strong> volunteers to assist with <strong>the</strong> running<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> existing Providenciales museum facility in<br />

The Village at Grace Bay.<br />

Duties will include conducting short tours and assisting<br />

with gift shop sales. We hope to assemble a team<br />

<strong>of</strong> three to four persons so a roster can be established.<br />

Full training will be given. We would like to be able to<br />

open three or four days a week for several hours to give<br />

both tourists and locals <strong>the</strong> ability to visit and enjoy <strong>the</strong><br />

museum on Providenciales.<br />

The National Museum Foundation is also establishing<br />

a committee on Providenciales to assist with raising<br />

funds for <strong>the</strong> new museum building designed by globally<br />

renowned architect Ron Shaw. The committee will<br />

consist <strong>of</strong> representatives from <strong>the</strong> TCI Government,<br />

Turks & Caicos Hotel & Tourism Association (TCHTA),<br />

two existing board members and a number <strong>of</strong> volunteers<br />

from <strong>the</strong> wider community. The objectives are to<br />

create public awareness for <strong>the</strong> new national museum<br />

building and to work on various fund-raising initiatives<br />

to cover <strong>the</strong> construction cost.<br />

Interested persons should contact National Museum<br />

Manager Lisa Talbot at info@tcmuseum.org or (649)<br />

247-2160 or Seamus Day at seamus.day@tcmuseum.<br />

org or (649) 431-2849 or visit <strong>the</strong> national museum’s<br />

website: www.tcmuseum.org a<br />

Lucayan educational materials<br />

The museum recently received educational materials<br />

donated by <strong>the</strong> project Stone Interchanges Within<br />

<strong>the</strong> Bahama Archipelago (SIBA). This is a University <strong>of</strong><br />

Oxford project supported by <strong>the</strong> UK’s Arts & Humanities<br />

Research Council. The Lucayans were <strong>the</strong> indigenous<br />

people <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos and <strong>the</strong> Bahamas. The<br />

illustrations and content are based on archaeological<br />

investigations in <strong>the</strong> region and selected artifacts in<br />

museum collections from <strong>the</strong>: National Museum <strong>of</strong> The<br />

Bahamas; Turks & Caicos National Museum; National<br />

Museum <strong>of</strong> Natural History, Smithsonian; National<br />

Museum <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> American Indian, Smithsonian and<br />

Peabody Museum <strong>of</strong> Natural History.<br />

The project resulted in <strong>the</strong> creation <strong>of</strong> beautiful<br />

illustrations by artist Merald Clark that reflect <strong>the</strong> lifeways<br />

and material culture <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lucayans. The Turks<br />

& Caicos National Museum received, at no cost, 45<br />

sets <strong>of</strong> posters and teacher’s guides along with 180<br />

image booklets. The guides provide for in-depth teaching<br />

with visual interpretation that will assist teachers in<br />

providing children with a better appreciation <strong>of</strong> original<br />

inhabitants and <strong>the</strong>ir lifestyle. Once schools return<br />

to in-classroom learning we will be working with <strong>the</strong><br />

education department to distribute <strong>the</strong>se to <strong>the</strong> various<br />

schools.<br />

PowerPoint presentations have also been created<br />

so that schools can take advantage <strong>of</strong> this information<br />

now. As well, educational presentations can be<br />

<strong>of</strong>fered by <strong>the</strong> museum to o<strong>the</strong>r interested individuals<br />

or groups.<br />

To learn more about this project visit <strong>the</strong> SIBA website<br />

https://siba.web.ox.ac.uk/home or contact <strong>the</strong><br />

museum at info@tcmuseum.org. a<br />

Refurbishment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bird drive<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>—which include coral reefs,<br />

tidal flats, mangroves and marshlands—provide excellent<br />

environments for wildlife. The salinas and ponds on<br />

Grand Turk have been called “internationally important<br />

for birds” by <strong>the</strong> UK Overseas Territories Conservation<br />

Forum (UKOTCF). The ponds <strong>of</strong>fer <strong>the</strong> unique ability to<br />

get close to <strong>the</strong> birds without directly disturbing <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

Those <strong>of</strong> us who live here are spoiled by seeing <strong>the</strong><br />

beautiful flamingos, comical pelicans and many o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

species up close on a regular basis.<br />

The Bird Walking and Driving Tours on Grand Turk<br />

were originally developed in 2011 by former Turks &<br />

Caicos National Museum Director Pat Saxton in part-<br />

66 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

nership with <strong>the</strong> UKOTCF. The development <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

tour was initially made possible by a grant from <strong>the</strong><br />

Carnival/TCInvest/TCIG Infrastructure Fund. Signs and<br />

guides were developed as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> project. Years<br />

<strong>of</strong> island wea<strong>the</strong>r, including several hurricanes, took a<br />

toll on <strong>the</strong> signs and some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> poles installed. The<br />

TCNM was able to obtain a grant from <strong>the</strong> governor’s<br />

<strong>of</strong>fice to update <strong>the</strong> signs and poles for <strong>the</strong> walking<br />

and driving tours.<br />

Over <strong>the</strong> last few weeks, new informative signs have<br />

been added to <strong>the</strong> start <strong>of</strong> each tour and all <strong>the</strong> numbered<br />

signs for each stop are being replaced. The new<br />

signs have revitalized <strong>the</strong> tour. There are two different<br />

tours available—a walking tour and a driving tour with<br />

signs to indicate <strong>the</strong> stops for each. The signs toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

with <strong>the</strong> printed guides lead you to <strong>the</strong> best viewing<br />

places. A map and description <strong>of</strong> what you can expect<br />

to see at each stop are included in <strong>the</strong> guides.<br />

We hope that <strong>the</strong> new signs will encourage appreciation<br />

for <strong>the</strong> bird life and our ability to witness it so<br />

easily. Guides for both <strong>the</strong> driving and walking tour are<br />

available for sale in <strong>the</strong> museum gift shop on Grand<br />

Turk. We also sell five guidebooks with information<br />

about <strong>the</strong> wildlife and heritage <strong>of</strong> each <strong>of</strong> TCI’s main<br />

islands at both <strong>of</strong> our locations. a<br />

Museum visits<br />

The museum on Grand Turk can be visited by appointment.<br />

We have had success during <strong>the</strong> pandemic with<br />

opening by request. This practice will continue until<br />

normal operating hours can return. The Providenciales<br />

location, which includes <strong>the</strong> Caicos Heritage House,<br />

should be reopening this <strong>Spring</strong>. Please check our website<br />

or contact us for updates on <strong>the</strong> reopening. Email<br />

info@tcmuseum.org or call (649) 247-2160 to schedule<br />

your visit or for updated information.<br />

TCNMF is a registered not for pr<strong>of</strong>it organization<br />

aimed at recording, interpreting, preserving,and celebrating<br />

<strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> and<br />

its people. The museum on Grand Turk is housed in<br />

<strong>the</strong> historic Guinep House, an iconic structure in <strong>the</strong><br />

nation’s capital. The new, expanded Providenciales<br />

museum building will be adjacent to <strong>the</strong> existing<br />

museum facility and heritage house in The Village,<br />

Grace Bay. a<br />

Story & Photos By Lisa Talbot<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 67

esort report<br />

The new Bottle Creek Lodge, under <strong>the</strong> ownership <strong>of</strong> Jim and Melanie Lee-Brown, overlooks Bottle Creek in <strong>the</strong> Readymoney area <strong>of</strong> North<br />

Caicos.<br />

A Phoenix on North Caicos<br />

Bottle Creek Lodge opens again.<br />

By Jody Rathgeb~ Images Courtesy Bottle Creek Lodge<br />

Here’s a new adage for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>: You can’t keep a good tourist site down. Pro<strong>of</strong>? Bottle Creek Lodge<br />

on North Caicos, which has opened to guests for <strong>the</strong> third time in nearly 30 years.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 69

The new Bottle Creek Lodge,<br />

under <strong>the</strong> ownership <strong>of</strong> Jim Brown<br />

and Melanie Lee-Brown, overlooks<br />

Bottle Creek in <strong>the</strong> Readymoney<br />

area <strong>of</strong> North Caicos. The<br />

site <strong>of</strong>fers two open-concept<br />

cabanas—named Seaside and<br />

Treehouse—each <strong>of</strong> 225 square<br />

feet, with furnished kitchenette,<br />

dining space, bathroom and private<br />

screened porch. While <strong>the</strong>re<br />

is no air conditioning—ceiling<br />

fans, floor fans and <strong>the</strong> breeze <strong>of</strong>f<br />

<strong>the</strong> creek provide plenty <strong>of</strong> comfort.<br />

Ano<strong>the</strong>r accommodation,<br />

<strong>the</strong> two-room, 450-square-foot<br />

Elizabeth’s Cabana, is currently<br />

undergoing renovation.<br />

The Bottle Creek Lodge buildings<br />

descend from <strong>the</strong> main road<br />

to <strong>the</strong> edge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> creek along<br />

paths lined with trees and plants<br />

that explain North Caicos’ reputation as <strong>the</strong> Garden<br />

Island. Planted and enhanced by previous owners, <strong>the</strong>y<br />

include aloes, sea grape, papaya, banana, sour orange,<br />

limes, coconut and sugar apple: a cornucopia <strong>of</strong> vegetation.<br />

At <strong>the</strong> base <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> property, a dock provides access<br />

to Bottle Creek. Kayaks, snorkeling gear and bicycles are<br />

available for guests.<br />

Seaside was home to <strong>the</strong> Browns while <strong>the</strong>y renovated and improved <strong>the</strong> Bottle Creek Lodge<br />

property.<br />

Discovery and deliberation<br />

As Jim Brown tells <strong>the</strong> story, “In October 2006 we were<br />

looking for a plot <strong>of</strong> land to buy here on North Caicos,<br />

a place to eventually build our retirement home.” They<br />

enjoyed a stay at Bottle Creek Lodge, <strong>the</strong>n owned by<br />

Sandy and Jay Johnson. “Two years later was <strong>the</strong> one-two<br />

punch <strong>of</strong> hurricanes Hanna and Ike. Bottle Creek Lodge<br />

At <strong>the</strong> base <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bottle Creek Lodge property, a dock provides access to Bottle Creek. Kayaks are available for guests.<br />

70 www.timespub.tc

sustained significant damage from<br />

<strong>the</strong> storms and never reopened. Jay<br />

occasionally came back and worked<br />

on liquidating some assets […] but<br />

o<strong>the</strong>rwise <strong>the</strong> place was abandoned<br />

and hurricane damage was left unrepaired.<br />

Over <strong>the</strong> years we would drive<br />

past when we were on visits to North<br />

Caicos, and reminisce about our<br />

great stay <strong>the</strong>re.”<br />

On one <strong>of</strong> those trips, in 2015,<br />

Jim and Melanie saw a “For Sale” sign<br />

on <strong>the</strong> gate. Jim continues, “Melanie<br />

and I are biology pr<strong>of</strong>essors in North<br />

Carolina, and we were both feeling<br />

increasingly burned-out and ready<br />

for a change. We agreed that we were<br />

at a ‘fork in <strong>the</strong> road’ in our careers;<br />

we could ei<strong>the</strong>r change now or run<br />

out our careers until full retirement.<br />

So when we saw <strong>the</strong> ‘For Sale’ sign, Treehouse is one <strong>of</strong> two open-concept cabanas for guests to stay at Bottle Creek Lodge.<br />

we looked at each o<strong>the</strong>r and thought<br />

<strong>the</strong> same thing.”<br />

After much thought and discussion, <strong>the</strong> Browns completed<br />

a purchase in <strong>the</strong> summer <strong>of</strong> 2016 and began in good enough shape for us to live in while we worked<br />

Creek Lodge, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cabanas (we call it Seaside) was<br />

renovations. There was much to be done, and much history<br />

to both honor and build on.<br />

call it Treehouse) was in much greater need <strong>of</strong> repair,<br />

on it and <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r buildings. The o<strong>the</strong>r small cabana (we<br />

both inside and out. The ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> larger two-room<br />

Hilton-Gibbs-Johnson<br />

cabana (we call it Elizabeth’s Cabana) had a flat ro<strong>of</strong><br />

The main stone-and-frame structure on <strong>the</strong> property which also served as <strong>the</strong> deck for <strong>the</strong> main house. It was<br />

was built as a private home by Englishman Fred Hilton. in very poor condition. The ro<strong>of</strong> had been leaking for<br />

When Howard Gibbs bought it in 1997, some time after eight years, <strong>the</strong> siding was rotten, and <strong>the</strong>re was standing<br />

water inside. The main house also had a leaky ro<strong>of</strong> on<br />

Hilton’s death, he focused on turning <strong>the</strong> property into<br />

an eco-lodge. He expanded <strong>the</strong> main house (adding a <strong>the</strong> incorporated spaces <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> front and back porches,<br />

restaurant), built <strong>the</strong> cottages and a workshop, and but was generally sound. The workshop was also in good<br />

worked extensively in <strong>the</strong> gardens. His vision was to keep shape, except that water blown in under <strong>the</strong> open eaves<br />

<strong>the</strong> lodge ecologically sustainable and small; Gibbs even had soaked all <strong>the</strong> remaining fixtures, tools and hardware,<br />

converting <strong>the</strong>m to rust. Everything that had been<br />

installed composting toilets in <strong>the</strong> cottages, hoping to<br />

draw tourists who wanted to live lightly while exploring at <strong>the</strong> waterline, including <strong>the</strong> boathouse and elaborate<br />

ano<strong>the</strong>r land and culture.<br />

dock and boardwalk, had been destroyed by <strong>the</strong> hurricanes.”<br />

When <strong>the</strong> Johnsons purchased <strong>the</strong> place in <strong>the</strong> early<br />

2000s, <strong>the</strong> focus shifted toward fishing. Sandy and Jay The Browns set to work in <strong>the</strong> summer <strong>of</strong> 2016, doing<br />

built a boathouse, dock and boardwalk and ran fishing what <strong>the</strong>y could <strong>the</strong>mselves, but hiring Kenny Higgs and<br />

charters out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> property while maintaining it as a Kenneth Hall for most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> renovations: replacing <strong>the</strong><br />

guest lodge and restaurant. The hurricanes, however, put ro<strong>of</strong>, wiring and plumbing; re-doing interior walls; repairing<br />

cisterns; and doing renovations to <strong>the</strong> kitchen and<br />

an end to <strong>the</strong>ir efforts.<br />

According to Brown, “After Hanna and Ike in 2008, <strong>the</strong> bathroom. Seaside and Treehouse renovations have been<br />

place was empty and continued to succumb to wea<strong>the</strong>r completed, and <strong>the</strong>re is a new, smaller dock. Work is still<br />

and damage for eight years. When we bought Bottle under way on <strong>the</strong> larger cabana, workshop and gardens.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 71

1 (649) 342-3180<br />

North Caicos Island, TCI<br />

BottleCreekLodge.com<br />

BottleCreekLodge@gmail.com<br />

pandemic. Bottle Creek Lodge opened again for <strong>the</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />

season, with <strong>the</strong> pandemic keeping rates at lower levels.<br />

The challenges <strong>of</strong> hurricanes and a virus were joined<br />

by those <strong>of</strong> meeting requirements for doing businesses<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, compounded by <strong>the</strong> timing <strong>of</strong> trying<br />

to open during a pandemic. The Browns credit many<br />

people in both <strong>the</strong> US and TCI for help in hurdling those<br />

hoops, including Karen Preikschat, “Poacher” Missick,<br />

Tekarrah Williams, Gordon Kerr, Sarah Knight, Eve and<br />

Ernie Quant and Janet and Ron Holmes. Preikschat has<br />

even become <strong>the</strong>ir manager as <strong>the</strong>y wait for permanent<br />

resident certificates.<br />

Recognising that Bottle Creek Lodge belongs as much<br />

to <strong>the</strong> island as to <strong>the</strong>m, <strong>the</strong> Browns decided to keep<br />

<strong>the</strong> name instead <strong>of</strong> trying to come up with a new one.<br />

Melanie notes, “[W]e decided that [<strong>the</strong>] history and identity<br />

<strong>of</strong> Bottle Creek Lodge were too important. People<br />

are always interested in <strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> evolution <strong>of</strong> this<br />

property from humble abode to a thriving business on a<br />

beautiful ocean creek. We see bits <strong>of</strong> everyone who lived<br />

and worked <strong>the</strong>re, and keeping those memories alive was<br />

important to us. The name also invokes feelings <strong>of</strong> tranquility,<br />

adventure and comfort. We hope every guest feels<br />

all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se at some point during <strong>the</strong>ir visit with us.”<br />

Open/closed/open<br />

Rising Phoenix<br />

When Seaside and Treehouse were ready for occupancy, Renovations at Bottle Creek Lodge will continue, and<br />

<strong>the</strong> Browns set a s<strong>of</strong>t opening <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lodge for February guest services will expand. Jim says <strong>the</strong>y hope to begin<br />

2020. A month later, it was closed due to <strong>the</strong> COVID-19 serving breakfast to guests in 2022, and <strong>the</strong>y are working<br />

on those approvals as<br />

well as prepping Elizabeth’s<br />

Suite. As this tourist phoenix<br />

rises again, <strong>the</strong> Browns<br />

say <strong>the</strong>y want to involve as<br />

much <strong>of</strong> North Caicos as <strong>the</strong>y<br />

can in <strong>the</strong> new Bottle Creek<br />

Lodge. “Our intention is to<br />

focus on creating a space that<br />

is relaxing and friendly,” he<br />

says. “We want to involve as<br />

many Islander businesses as<br />

possible for non-self-guided<br />

activities that guests may<br />

want. We want to be a hub .<br />

. . give people a place to stay,<br />

and <strong>the</strong>n provide <strong>the</strong>m access<br />

to local folks who already provide<br />

<strong>the</strong>se services and can<br />

Bottle Creek Lodge is now a thriving business on a beautiful ocean creek.<br />

benefit from <strong>the</strong> business.” a<br />

72 www.timespub.tc

about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, The<br />

Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Visit www.amnautical.com.<br />

Where we are<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> lie some 575 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />

<strong>of</strong> Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time —<br />

with The Bahamas about 30 miles to <strong>the</strong> northwest and<br />

<strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic some 100 miles to <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>ast.<br />

The country consists <strong>of</strong> two island groups separated<br />

by <strong>the</strong> 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To <strong>the</strong> west are<br />

<strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>: West Caicos, Providenciales, North<br />

Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To<br />

<strong>the</strong> east are <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.<br />

The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles <strong>of</strong> land<br />

area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s<br />

population is approximately 43,000.<br />

Getting here<br />

There are international airports on Grand Turk,<br />

Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic airports<br />

on all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands except East Caicos.<br />

TCI Assured is a quality assurance pre-travel program<br />

and portal, to assist visitors and returning residents when<br />

<strong>the</strong> country reopened its borders on July 22, 2020. The<br />

TCI is now requiring a negative COVID-19 PCR test result<br />

from a test taken within five days <strong>of</strong> travel. Children under<br />

<strong>the</strong> age <strong>of</strong> 10 are not required to be tested. Additionally,<br />

travelers must have medical/travel insurance that covers<br />

medevac (insurance companies providing <strong>the</strong> prerequisite<br />

insurance will be available on <strong>the</strong> portal), a completed<br />

health screening questionnaire, and certification that <strong>the</strong>y<br />

have read and agreed to <strong>the</strong> privacy policy document.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 73

These requirements must be completed and uploaded<br />

to <strong>the</strong> TCI Assured portal, which is available on <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />

Tourist Board website (www.turksandcaicostourism.<br />

com), in advance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir arrival.<br />

Once travelers register on <strong>the</strong> TCI Assured portal and<br />

complete <strong>the</strong> requirements as outlined, a travel authorization<br />

notification will be given. The TCI Assured travel<br />

authorization should be presented at <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> check-in<br />

to <strong>the</strong> appropriate airline; airlines will not be able to<br />

board passengers without this authorization.<br />

Language<br />

English.<br />

Time zone<br />

Eastern Standard Time (EST)/Daylight Savings Time<br />

observed.<br />

Currency<br />

The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks<br />

& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.<br />

dollars are widely accepted and o<strong>the</strong>r currency can be<br />

changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and<br />

MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.<br />

Climate<br />

The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The<br />

hottest months are September and October, when <strong>the</strong><br />

temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,<br />

<strong>the</strong> consistent easterly trade winds temper <strong>the</strong> heat and<br />

keep life comfortable.<br />

Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for<br />

daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on<br />

some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing<br />

and a sunhat and use waterpro<strong>of</strong> sunscreen when out<br />

in <strong>the</strong> tropical sun.<br />

Entry requirements<br />

Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.<br />

Customs formalities<br />

Visitors may bring in duty free for <strong>the</strong>ir own use one carton<br />

<strong>of</strong> cigarettes or cigars, one bottle <strong>of</strong> liquor or wine,<br />

and some perfume. The importation <strong>of</strong> all firearms including<br />

those charged with compressed air without prior<br />

approval in writing from <strong>the</strong> Commissioner <strong>of</strong> Police is<br />

strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled<br />

drugs and pornography are also illegal.<br />

Returning residents may bring in $400 worth <strong>of</strong><br />

merchandise per person duty free. A duty <strong>of</strong> 10% to<br />

60% is charged on most imported goods along with a<br />

7% customs processing fee and forms a major source <strong>of</strong><br />

government revenue.<br />

Transportation<br />

A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting<br />

vehicles. A government tax <strong>of</strong> 12% is levied on all<br />

rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on <strong>the</strong><br />

left-hand side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road, with traffic flow controlled by<br />

round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and<br />

drive! Taxis and community cabs are abundant throughout<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and many resorts <strong>of</strong>fer shuttle service<br />

between popular visitor areas. Scooter, motorcycle, and<br />

bicycle rentals are also available.<br />

74 www.timespub.tc

Telecommunications<br />

FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband<br />

Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,<br />

including pre- and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts<br />

and some stores and restaurants <strong>of</strong>fer wireless Internet<br />

connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with<br />

a full suite <strong>of</strong> LTE 4G service. FLOW is <strong>the</strong> local carrier<br />

for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and<br />

Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets<br />

and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can<br />

arrange international roaming.<br />

Electricity<br />

FortisTCI supplies electricity at a frequency <strong>of</strong> 60HZ,<br />

and ei<strong>the</strong>r single phase or three phase at one <strong>of</strong> three<br />

standard voltages for residential or commercial service.<br />

FortisTCI continues to invest in a robust and resilient grid<br />

to ensure <strong>the</strong> highest level <strong>of</strong> reliability to customers. The<br />

company is integrating renewable energy into its grid and<br />

provides options for customers to participate in two solar<br />

energy programs.<br />

Departure tax<br />

US $60. It is typically included in your airline ticket cost.<br />

Courier service<br />

Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with <strong>of</strong>fices on<br />

Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is<br />

limited to incoming delivery.<br />

Postal service<br />

The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is<br />

located downtown on Airport Road. In Grand Turk, <strong>the</strong><br />

Post Office and Philatelic Bureau are on Church Folly. The<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> are known for <strong>the</strong>ir varied and colorful stamp<br />

issues.<br />

Media<br />

Multi-channel satellite television is received from <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />

and Canada and transmitted via cable or over <strong>the</strong> air.<br />

Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island<br />

EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television <strong>of</strong>fers 75 digitally<br />

transmitted television stations, along with local news<br />

and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number <strong>of</strong><br />

local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.<br />

Medical services<br />

There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are<br />

large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.<br />

Food for Thought provides free daily<br />

breakfast to government school students.<br />

A donation <strong>of</strong> $300 will provide breakfast<br />

to one child for a whole school year.<br />

To donate or learn more please<br />

email info@foodforthoughttci.com<br />

or visit foodforthoughttci.com<br />

Food for Thought Foundation Inc. (NP #102)<br />

Both hospitals <strong>of</strong>fer a full range <strong>of</strong> services including:<br />

24/7 emergency room, operating <strong>the</strong>aters, diagnostic<br />

imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,<br />

physio<strong>the</strong>rapy, and dentistry.<br />

In addition, several general practitioners operate in<br />

<strong>the</strong> country, and <strong>the</strong>re is a recompression chamber, along<br />

with a number <strong>of</strong> private pharmacies.<br />

Immigration<br />

A resident’s permit is required to live in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. A<br />

work permit and business license are also required to<br />

work and/or establish a business. These are generally<br />

granted to those <strong>of</strong>fering skills, experience, and qualifications<br />

not widely available on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Priority is given<br />

to enterprises that will provide employment and training<br />

for T&C Islanders.<br />

Government/Legal system<br />

TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed<br />

Governor, HE Nigel John Dakin. He presides over an executive<br />

council formed by <strong>the</strong> elected local government.<br />

Hon. Charles Washington Misick is <strong>the</strong> country’s new premier,<br />

leading a majority Progressive National Party (PNP)<br />

House <strong>of</strong> Assembly.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 75

The legal system is based upon English Common<br />

Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief<br />

Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court<br />

<strong>of</strong> Appeal visit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> twice a year and <strong>the</strong>re is a final<br />

Right <strong>of</strong> Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.<br />

Taxes<br />

There are currently no direct taxes on ei<strong>the</strong>r income<br />

or capital for individuals or companies. There are no<br />

exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs<br />

duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,<br />

restaurants, vehicle rentals, o<strong>the</strong>r services and gasoline,<br />

as well as business license fees and departure taxes.<br />

Economy<br />

Historically, TCI’s economy relied on <strong>the</strong> export <strong>of</strong> salt.<br />

Currently, tourism, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore finance industry, and<br />

fishing generate <strong>the</strong> most private sector income. The<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>’ main exports are lobster and conch. Practically<br />

all consumer goods and foodstuffs are imported.<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are recognised as an<br />

important <strong>of</strong>fshore financial centre, <strong>of</strong>fering services<br />

such as company formation, <strong>of</strong>fshore insurance, banking,<br />

trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.<br />

The Financial Services Commission regulates <strong>the</strong> industry<br />

and spearheads <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore legislation.<br />

People<br />

Citizens <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are termed<br />

“Belongers” and are primarily descendants <strong>of</strong> African<br />

slaves who were brought to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to work in <strong>the</strong><br />

salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large<br />

expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,<br />

Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,<br />

Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.<br />

Churches<br />

Churches are <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> community life and <strong>the</strong>re<br />

are many faiths represented in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> including:<br />

Adventist, Anglican, Assembly <strong>of</strong> God, Baha’i, Baptist,<br />

Catholic, Church <strong>of</strong> God, Episcopal, Jehovah’s Witnesses,<br />

Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.<br />

Pets<br />

Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary<br />

health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test<br />

results to be submitted at <strong>the</strong> port <strong>of</strong> entry to obtain<br />

clearance from <strong>the</strong> TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Animal<br />

Health Services.<br />

National symbols<br />

The National Bird is <strong>the</strong> Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).<br />

The National Plant is Island hea<strong>the</strong>r (Limonium<br />

bahamense) found nowhere else in <strong>the</strong> world. The<br />

76 www.timespub.tc

National Tree is <strong>the</strong> Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.<br />

bahamensis). The National Costume consists <strong>of</strong> white cotton<br />

dresses tied at <strong>the</strong> waist for women and simple shirts<br />

and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing<br />

<strong>the</strong> various islands are displayed on <strong>the</strong> sleeves<br />

and bases. The National Song is “This Land <strong>of</strong> Ours” by<br />

<strong>the</strong> late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits)<br />

with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.<br />

Going green<br />

TCI Waste Disposal Services currently <strong>of</strong>fers recycling<br />

services through weekly collection <strong>of</strong> recyclable aluminum,<br />

glass, and plastic. Single-use plastic bags have been<br />

banned country-wide as <strong>of</strong> May 1, 2019.<br />

Recreation<br />

Sporting activities are centered around <strong>the</strong> water. Visitors<br />

can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,<br />

glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,<br />

waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba<br />

diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding, and<br />

beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life, and<br />

excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving destination.<br />

Tennis and golf—<strong>the</strong>re is an 18 hole championship<br />

course on Providenciales—are also popular.<br />

subscription form<br />

TIMES<br />

OF THE<br />



One year subscription<br />

$28 U.S. addresses/$32 non-U.S. addresses<br />

The <strong>Islands</strong> are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can<br />

enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in 33<br />

national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries, and areas <strong>of</strong><br />

historical interest. The National Trust provides trail guides<br />

to several hiking trails, as well as guided tours <strong>of</strong> major<br />

historical sites. There is an excellent national museum on<br />

Grand Turk, with an auxillary branch on Providenciales. A<br />

scheduled ferry and a selection <strong>of</strong> tour operators make it<br />

easy to take day trips to <strong>the</strong> outer islands.<br />

O<strong>the</strong>r land-based activities include bicycling, horseback<br />

riding and football (soccer). Personal trainers are<br />

available to motivate you, working out <strong>of</strong> several fitness<br />

centres. You will also find a variety <strong>of</strong> spa and body treatment<br />

services.<br />

Nightlife includes local bands playing island music<br />

at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There is<br />

a casino on Providenciales, along with many electronic<br />

gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!<br />

Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,<br />

sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,<br />

including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets<br />

sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, lea<strong>the</strong>r goods,<br />

crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing<br />

and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a<br />


Name____________________________________________________________________<br />

Date ____________________<br />

Address__________________________________________________________________<br />

City _____________________________________________________________________<br />

State/Province____________________________________________________________<br />

Country/Postal Code_____________________________________________________<br />

E-mail address (not required)_____________________________________________<br />

r New Subscription r Renewal<br />

r U.S. Cheque/M.O. enclosed<br />

Mail with payment to:<br />

<strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd., c/o Kathy Borsuk,<br />

247 Holmes Ave., Clarendon Hills, IL 60514<br />

Please allow 30 to 60 days for delivery <strong>of</strong> first issue.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 77

where to stay<br />

78 www.timespub.tc

where to stay<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 79

dining<br />

80 www.timespub.tc

dining<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 81

classified ads<br />


Hand Crafted<br />

Skincare<br />

<strong>Spring</strong> -Summer<br />


rejouvenancespa.com<br />

+ 1 - 6 4 9 - 4 3 2 - 7 5 4 6<br />

TC Safari_Layout 1 8/9/18 3:33 PM Page 1<br />

Community Fellowship Centre<br />

A Life-Changing Experience<br />

Sunday Divine Worship 9 AM<br />

Visitors Welcome!<br />

Tel: 649.941.3484 • Web: cfctci.com<br />

Vacation Villa Rentals<br />

Joanne Phillips, Turks & Caicos Safari<br />

www.tcsafari.com<br />

Call: 1-904-491-1415<br />

Email: tcsafari@tcsafari.com<br />

Ocean Breeze_Layout 1 4/8/19 10:34 AM Page<br />

D&Bswift_Layout<br />

1<br />

1 5/8/18 7:24 AM Page 1<br />

Our cleaning solutions are made<br />

from biodegradable materials that<br />

aren't harmful to <strong>the</strong> environment.<br />

Find our products throughout <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />





Call 244-2526<br />

or 241-5584<br />

649-941-8438 and 649-241-4968<br />

SCOOTER HOUSEHOLD AND BOBS_Layout COMMERCIAL CLEANING 1 8/8/18 PRODUCTS 10:57 AM Page GBC2017_Layout 1 2/16/17 9:10 AM Page 1<br />

autorental@dnbautoparts.com<br />

www.oceanbreezetci.com<br />

We’re here to<br />

make your holiday<br />

<strong>the</strong> island way...<br />



Provo & North-Middle Caicos<br />

Office: 946-4684<br />

Amos: 441-2667 (after hours)<br />

Yan: 247-6755 (after hours)<br />

Bob: 231-0262 (after hours)<br />

scooterbobs@gmail.com<br />

www.scooterbobstci.com<br />

Grace Bay Road across from Regent Street<br />

Fun Friendly People<br />

Appreciating Your Business!<br />

941-8500<br />

www.gracebaycarrentals.com<br />

82 www.timespub.tc


ENERGY<br />

You Can<br />

Count On<br />

R-NETS: A roadmap for<br />

TCI’s energy future<br />

Solar integration<br />

to <strong>the</strong> FortisTCI grid<br />

We’re building partnerships to deliver a more sustainable<br />

energy future for <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

With <strong>the</strong> Resilient National Energy Transition<br />

Strategy (R-NETS) serving as a roadmap, and with<br />

new and ongoing investments in solar energy<br />

generation, solar plus battery pilot project, and<br />

an electric vehicle and charging station project,<br />

FortisTCI is working every day to deliver resilient,<br />

cost-effective and environmentally sustainable<br />

energy, to fuel growth and development.<br />

Solar + battery storage<br />

pilot project<br />

Electric vehicle<br />

pilot project<br />

www.fortistci.com | 649-946-4313 |

For Those Who Seek An<br />

Exceptional Vacation Home & Lifestyle<br />

We Are Available To Help You<br />

Navigate The Real Estate Process<br />


Condominium | Home & Villa | Land | New Development<br />

649.946.4474 | info@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com | turksandcaicosSIR.com<br />

Venture House, Grace Bay | Resort Locations: Grace Bay Club and The Palms<br />

Each franchise is Independently Owned and Operated.

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!