Jeweller April 2021

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
APRIL 2021
Pearls of wisdom
EXAMINING THE CHALLENGES
FACING THE PEARL SECTOR
Perfect in pink
THE ENDURING LEGACY AND TIMELESS
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Candy to crimson
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APRIL 2021
Contents
This Month
Industry Facets
15 Editor’s Desk
16 Upfront
18 News
Features
26
28
30
72
74
10 YEARS AGO
Time Machine: April 2011
MY STORE
Penwarden Fine Jewellery
NOW & THEN
Catanach’s Jewellers
MY BENCH
Laurie Moffatt
SOAPBOX
Chris Holdsworth
32 PINK DIAMONDS FEATURE
Australian icon
4Following the closure of the Argyle
Mine, ARABELLA RODEN explores
its legacy as the home of the world’s
most coveted pink diamonds.
32
47
56
PINK DIAMONDS FEATURE
Argyle pink diamonds: A timeless legacy
GEM QUARTER: PINK, RED & PURPLE GEMSTONES
From candy to crimson
PEARLS FEATURE
Pearls of wisdom
56 PEARLS FEATURE
Tidal shift
4The pearl sector is facing myriad
changes and challenges, even
beyond the impact of COVID-19,
writes ARABELLA RODEN.
Better Your Business
66
68
BUSINESS STRATEGY
Content marketing is key to driving your e-commerce strategy, writes SIMON DELL.
SELLING
DAVID BROWN provides a seven-factor framework for pricing your stock.
69
70
71
MANAGEMENT
RYAN ESTIS advises how to utilise persuasive communication for sales and leadership.
MARKETING & PR
Strong customer relationships pay dividends, advises JEANNIE WALTERS.
LOGGED ON
Your digital marketing strategy may be due for a review, writes ERIKA MONTGOMERY.
47 GEM QUARTER
Red spectrum
4In the first edition of Gem
Quarter, Jeweller explores
the enduring appeal and
colour origin of pink, red,
and purple gemstones.
FRONT COVER Founded in 1967,
SAMS Group Australia is a premier
supplier of certified and authentic
Argyle pink diamonds and pink
diamond jewellery through its
Pink Kimberley and Blush Pink
Diamonds brands. Exquisitely
crafted in the finest materials, each
piece exemplifies the rarity and
unparalleled beauty of Australia’s
unique diamond gift: Argyle pinks.
April 2021 | 13

Editor’s Desk
To see the world in a facet
Problems can sometimes appear bigger than they really are, but solutions are often right before our eyes.
ANGELA HAN reveals how diamonds can teach us multifaceted solutions to multifaceted problems.
Leaders and numbers
have one thing in common...
They both speak for themselves!
PUBLICATION
GLOBAL
RANKING
TIME SPENT
PER VISITOR
PAGE VIEWS
PER VISITOR
COUNTRY
1 Jeweller 66,094 25:31 14 Australia
2 JCK 73,914 02:03 1.6 USA
3 National Jeweller 118,273 01:49 1.8 USA
4
Jewellery Net Asia 136,914 07:11 6.7 Hong Kong
5 Rapaport Magazine 145,914 01:57 1.6 USA
* Alexa Global Ranking statistics as at 30 March 2021
Jeweller been the leading voice of the Australian and
New Zealand jewellery industries for more than two
decades. Today we rank #1 in the world.
Alexa, the independent global ranking system for measuring
website traffic and readership, now ranks jewellermagazine.com
as the most widely read industry publication in the world.
Better still, the daily time spent on jewellermagazine.com
averages 25 minutes, which far exceeds all other industry
titles that average only 2–3 minutes per visitor, while
Jeweller’s social media presence dominates and our
eMags boast over 12.1 million reads.
It’s clear, the numbers speak for themselves -
follow the leader, and follow the readers too!
Have you ever viewed a diamond through
a loupe and found its inclusion reflected
on every single facet, only to turn it one
degree and discover that the same stone
looks completely flawless?
Depending on the angle from which you look,
a single stone can magically transform its
clarity from imperfect to perfect.
As the most refractive object on earth,
diamonds can mirror inclusions across
every surface – yet also conceal flaws in
the very same way.
This attribute makes it all the more important
to assess the stone in its entirety, without
making a judgment based on incomplete
information. It’s a valuable reminder that one
facet certainly does not maketh the diamond!
Herein lies an enriching lesson for problems
that sometimes feel beyond our control.
From old Talmudic and Christian scriptures to
Marcus Aurelius and Margaret Atwood, many
wise words exist about the illusory nature of
perspective: we don’t see things the way they
are, we see them in the way we are.
As nature would have it, this is the way
we’re programmed, and unfortunately
there is a great danger in believing that
our perspective is the only valid one.
Personal viewpoints materialise through
our own lived experiences, so it’s easy
to lose sight of the bigger picture in the
pursuit to solve a problem.
However, our survival and evolution relies on
our ability to see things from multiple facets,
which ultimately enriches our experience
of life. The more we’re able to broaden our
perspectives, the more we’re able to see
clearly, and make better decisions.
The word ‘facet’ originated in the 1620s
from the Old French word facette, meaning
‘one side of a multi-sided body’.
It was an industry-specific term coined for
diamond-cutting but became popularised
within the mainstream dialect in the 1820s
to describe anything – and any one – with
multiple sides and dimensions.
To acknowledge the existence of a facet is
also, by definition, to acknowledge the rest
of its multi-sided body; and in a similar
vein, to acknowledge a problem is also to
acknowledge that there is a solution.
Today, there is an air of caution as
Australians confront the coming months
without the government support that has
been a lifeline for many throughout the
past 12 months.
Much like staring at a diamond that is
only reflecting inclusions, the future feels
unclear and the path ahead onerous, given
the prospect of increasing unemployment
figures, consumers tightening their belts,
and further expected business closures.
But this is not the entire picture.
Travelling throughout Australia this last
month with the Jewellery Trade Days has
been both inspiring and rejuvenating,
as it provided a valuable opportunity to
reconnect face-to-face with retailers and
suppliers, and to exchange stories of our
struggles and victories with our battles
against the COVID-19 pandemic.
Despite immense uncertainty, many
jewellers experienced surprising sales
increases this past year, which has
allowed them to prepare for any further
unpredictable times that could lie ahead.
While at the Trade Days, a small Sydney
jeweller told me how he was planning to
close his store in April 2020 given retail sales
had been in steady decline for a number of
years and rent was unaffordable.
Foot traffic was down, and he didn’t have
time to maintain and improve his digital
presence; COVID-19 was the sign he was
waiting for to opt out of physical retail.
As far as he was concerned, he had little
motivation or incentive to continue with his
store given the overheads. He explained
that he had a great deal of excess old
stock that he was planning to ”quit” via a
rebranded online store, which is why he
spent all his effort rebranding the online
business and increasing his online voice.
However, as he began to re-launch the online
store, enquiries came trickling through
and his diary began to fill with private
appointments to visit his physical showroom.
Seeing the demand for his physical store
increase, he had to rethink closing his doors.
The diamond
is more than
just a token of
eternal love;
it can also act
as a reminder
to consider life
from different
perspectives.
It is a totem
to remind us
that solutions
can simply be
a facet-turn
away.
Instead, he relaunched the shopfront to
match his new online brand and ended
2020 with a record year of sales.
Now he’s expanding his workshop to
accommodate two new bench jewellers
and hiring digital marketing staff so that
he can spend more time focusing on the
very store that he was going to close!
What was supposed to be the end of one
chapter became the start of another.
There are many savvy – and lucky –
operators who used the pandemic as
an opportunity to rise from the ashes.
“COVID was a blessing in disguise – it
forced me to change the way I view my
business”, is a refrain I’ve heard all too
many times over the last few weeks on
the road; COVID-19 was the loupe that
allowed them to view their business
‘diamond’ in a new way and reignite their
excitement for the future.
Perspective helps us to accurately contrast
the large with the small, the difficult from
the easy, the major from the minor and the
important from the unimportant. Without
it, we cannot make good decisions or
understand our place in the world.
Broadening our perspective helps us to
formulate and refine ideas. Innovation and
problem-solving all rely on the ability to
view a problem from every facet.
There are many angles in which to look
at a problem, but a solution is always
achieved using a ‘try’ angle!
The diamond is more than just a token of
eternal love; it can also act as a reminder
to consider life from different perspectives.
It is a totem to remind us that solutions
can simply be a facet-turn away.
In a trade of incredible beauty and skill, it’s
almost impossible to separate business
from philosophy.
When there’s a problem that seems larger
than you can handle, adjust your eyes and
look at it from a different perspective –
the problem might not be nearly as big
as you think.
Angela Han
Publisher
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM
April 2021 | 15

Upfront
#Instagram hashtags to follow
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250,372+ POSTS
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Alpha Order
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#sapphireanddiamond
4,054+ POSTS
HISTORIC GEMSTONE
Delhi Purple Sapphire
4Now residing in London’s Natural History Museum, the Delhi Purple
Sapphire is in fact a cabochon amethyst. It was bequeathed to the
museum by academic Edward Heron-Allen upon his death in 1943.
Heron-Allen claimed it had been looted from the Temple
of Indra in Kanpur during the Indian Rebellion of 1857.
Forbidding its box to be opened until
three years after his death, Heron-
Allen called the gemstone “trebly
accursed” and said he had tried to
dispose of it in Regent’s
Canal, only for it to
be dredged up and
sold back to him by a
gemstone dealer.
Celebrity Style
4Rapper Big Sean walked the Grammy
Awards red carpet wearing several
pieces by archaeologist-turnedjeweller
Loren Teetelli of Loren Nicole,
including the ‘Charm’ bracelet (inset)
which features cabochon tanzanite,
tourmaline, and aquamarine set in
22-carat yellow gold. Teetelli’s pieces
are inspired by ancient artefacts.
Image credit:Dior Image credit: Getty Images
Stranger Things
Weird, wacky and wonderful
jewellery news from around the world
Justice served cold
4A man is facing court on the
NSW Central Coast, 20 years after
he allegedly committed a jewellery
store robbery. In 2001, masked
men held up Roberts Jewellery at
gunpoint, fleeing with jewellery
valued at $50,000 which later forced
the 30-year-old business to close.
While police were unable to identify
the robbers at the time, a discarded
balaclava from the getaway car
was subjected to new DNA testing
techniques in 2017, which led to
charges against two men.
Pricey smile
4Celebrity Kim Kardashian
has debuted a new gemstoneencrusted
grill on Instagram. The
tooth jewellery was custom-made
by California’s Gabby Elan Jewelry,
and features Kardashian’s
birthstone – opal – and pavéset
diamonds. However, while
beautiful, opal is not usually
recommended for grills due to
the acids and moisture present in
saliva, which can degrade it.
Online payments
service PayPal
has also
announced a
BNPL service, Pay
In 4, with no fees
for merchants, set
to launch in June.
Digital Brainwave
4The buy-now, pay-later (BNPL) sector
is set to become more crowded, with the
Commonwealth Bank of Australia (CBA)
announcing it will release its own service
in mid-2021 to compete with the likes of
AfterPay and ZipPay.
Approved CBA customers will be able to use
it anywhere a Mastercard is accepted, for
transactions of $100 to $1,000. There will
be no additional fees for merchants above
CBA standard costs. The decision to launch
the service was based on analysis of CBA
transactional data over several years.
Jewel Watch
4French fashion house Dior has
unveiled its latest high jewellery
collection, RoseDior. Designer
Victoire de Castellane was inspired by
the roses of Christian Dior’s childhood
garden, recreating the flowers in pink
sapphire, spinel, tsavorite garnet,
diamond, and emerald.
Cutting the cord
4Italian designer brand
Bottega Veneta has drawn
ire from fashion fans for its
latest jewellery collection, which
has been likened to coiled
telephone cords. A necklace
from the collection retails
for $US2,000, while matching
hoop earrings, a ring, and a cuff
bracelet are priced between
$US660 and $US1,520. The pieces
are crafted from resin-coated
sterling silver and are made in Italy.
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
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Digital Co-ordinator Trish Bucheli-Preece trish@jewellermagazine.com • Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com
Copyright All material appearing in Jeweller is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd
strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information
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Supplying Australia Since 1974

News
18 | April 2021
In Brief
Jeweller publisher takes
over InColor magazine
4 The International Colored Gemstone
Association (ICA) has announced that its
quarterly publication, InColor, will now be
published by Befindan Media, publisher
of Jeweller. Established in 1984, the ICA is
the peak international body promoting the
global colored gemstone industry. InColor
will undergo a redesign and relaunch, with
the tagline, ‘Celebrating gemstone beauty’
under new publisher Angela Han.
Rolex gains market share
in Swiss watch industry
4 A new analysis by financial services
firm Morgan Stanley and business
consultancy LuxConsult posits that Rolex
sales now account for 24.9 per cent
of the entire Swiss watch industry, an
increase from 22 per cent in 2019. As a
private company, Rolex’s sales figures
are confidential; however, Morgan Stanley
and LuxConsult estimate its annual sales
revenue at CHF8 billion ($AU11.5 billion).
Alrosa lifts production
forecast for 2021
4 Russian mining conglomerate
Alrosa – the world’s largest diamond
producer by volume – has increased its
production forecast for the year to 31.5
million carats, up from 28–30 million
carats. The decision followed a recovery
in demand in the fourth quarter of
2020; Alrosa’s revenue rose 55 per cent
compared with the same period in 2019,
to RUB 98.6 billion ($AU1.7 billion).
Hatton Garden burglar
loses appeal
4John Collins, 79 – one of the six
men convicted as part of the 2015
£13.7 million ($AU24.7 million) Hatton
Garden heist – has lost an appeal
to have his jail sentence reduced.
Collins was ordered to repay
£7,635,233 ($AU13.8 million) in 2018,
but refused. As a result, a UK court
ordered him to serve a further seven
years behind bars in 2019 – effectively
doubling his sentence.
New owner takes over historic
Australian diamond mine
Burgundy Diamond Mines has acquired the Ellendale site – once the world’s largest producer of fancy yellow
diamonds – from Gibb River Diamonds, in addition to the adjacent Blina Diamond Project.
Burgundy Diamond Mines (BDM) has acquired
the dormant Ellendale Mine from Gibb River
Diamonds (GRD), 16 months after GRD was
granted exclusive mining and exploration
leases by the West Australian government.
The $6.7 million, two-year option deal
includes “Ellendale remnant stockpiles,
unworked alluvial deposits, unexplored
pit-rim deposits, and potentially remnant
material from the… open pits” as well as
rights to the adjacent Blina alluvial diamond
deposit, which GRD – formerly known as POZ
Minerals – has owned since 2017.
GRD will also receive 16 million BDM shares,
as well as 1.5 per cent gross revenue royalty.
Opened in 1976, Ellendale – which is located
135km east of Derby in the West Kimberley –
was at one point the world’s largest producer
of fancy yellow diamonds and had an exclusive
supply agreement with Tiffany & Co.
However, it ceased production in 2015 when
previous owner Kimberley Diamond Company
went into liquidation.
The West Australian government subsequently
undertook a $230,000 ‘rehabilitation’ process
to return the mine to viability. GRD and
another Australian company, India Bore
Diamond Holdings (IBDH), were granted
leases to separate parts of the Ellendale site
in December 2019.
Last year, IBDH announced the discovery of
yellow diamonds with rare purple fluorescence
in its section of the diamond field.
Following the closure of the Argyle Mine in
November 2020, Australia has no operational
diamond mines.
In a statement to the Australian Securities
Exchange (ASX), BDM expressed its intention
to “extract maximum value from the natural
beauty of the Ellendale stones via its own
marketing initiatives, and re-establish
Western Australia as a supplier of unique
high-value diamonds to luxury goods
markets worldwide”.
BDM has already made a first instalment
payment of $1.7 million and 4 million shares
to GRD; should it elect not to pay the two
future instalments, ownership of Ellendale will
revert to GRD.
“We are delighted to have been able to
successfully secure this transaction... We
look forward to working with Gibb River
through an orderly transition period”
PETER RAVENSCROFT
Burgundy Diamond Mines
Jim Richards, executive chairman GRD,
said, “The Ellendale Diamond Project
requires significant capital to progress and
[GRD] believes the involvement of [BDM]
will provide greater certainty and upside for
[GRD] shareholders in this regard, whilst also
providing significant additional benefits for all
stakeholders in the region.”
Based in Western Australia, BDM is described
on its website as a “diamond exploration
company focused on developing the world’s
best diamond projects that have either been
overlooked, or severely underfunded”.
In addition to Ellendale-Blina, the company has
diamond interests in Canada and Botswana.
CONTINUED ON PAGE 24
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News
Buying group reaches another membership
milestone; surpasses two-year goal
Positive response to jewellery
industry Trade Days
Independent Jewellers Collective has now reached 60
member stores, more than a year ahead of schedule.
Independent Jewellers Collective (IJC), which
launched in early 2020, recently reached its twoyear
goal of 60 stores following an influx of new
memberships in early .
Josh Zarb, CEO IJC, said he was “extremely happy”
with the progress the group had made.“To exceed
our two-year target within eight months has been
phenomenal; it’s quite exciting for the group.
“We got to 40 stores shortly after we launched
and then reached our first-year target, which was
50 stores, before the end of the year, and it hasn’t
slowed since,” he told Jeweller.
The buying group had initially planned to hit the
60-store milestone by June 2022, given its aim to
maintain a high level of boutique service.
US fancy colour diamond supplier
establishes Australian office
The 2.83-carat Argyle Violet diamond, set in a ring (inset)
with a halo of 12 vivid pink Argyle diamonds from the Scott
West Jewelry Collection – part of LJ West Diamonds.
LJ West Diamonds, one of the largest fancy colour
diamond suppliers in the US, has established an
Australian subsidiary headquartered in Perth and
led by former Rio Tinto executive William Gant.
The New York-based business holds one
of the world’s largest collections of Argyle pink
diamonds and has been an Authorised Partner of
the mine since the 1980s.
Gant told Jeweller that the business’ expansion into
the Australian market was driven by demand.
“The Australian market has shown to be very
“We’ve had expressions of interest from more than
120 stores, but our strategy is to have a niche group
– small, with high-quality retailers and suppliers,
and hands-on service.
“Our specialties are in marketing and operational
support,” Zarb explained.
He added, “It’s still early days, but we’re so thankful
to all the retailers and suppliers who have partnered
with us so far – this motivates us to work even
harder for them.
“It’s still early days, but we’re so thankful to all
the retailers and suppliers who have partnered
with us so far – this motivates us to work even
harder for them”
JOSH ZARB
Independent Jewellers Collective
“Our team is working very well together, and that
shows through our administration, communication,
and marketing.”
IJC’s membership has been concentrated in regional
areas, with an even spread across Australia, though
Zarb noted that the group had seen an increase in
enquiries from metro stores “since the New Year”.
much demanding of pink diamonds – in particular,
Argyle-certified pink diamonds.
“It made sense to set up a subsidiary office
in Australia to better service the market
here, primarily for the Argyle-certified pink
diamonds, but also to expand further and
develop the market for other colours and
our jewellery as well”
WILLIAM GANT
LJ West Diamonds Australia
“To service that demand from all the way over in
New York is quite cumbersome and not always
ideal in terms of time zones and presence of
stock,” he explained.
“It made sense to set up a subsidiary office in
Australia to better service the market here,
primarily for the Argyle-certified pink diamonds,
but also to expand further and develop the market
for other colours and our jewellery as well.”
CONTINUED ON PAGE 24
The Expertise Events jewellery industry Trade Days on the Gold Coast, Sydney, and
in Adelaide have received a warm reception from the trade.
The Expertise Events Trade Days
have received a warm reception from
the jewellery industry. At the time of
publication, Trade Days had been held
on the Gold Coast, in Sydney a
nd in Adelaide, with a final event set
for 10–11 April in Perth. In addition,
a Jewellery Pavilion was set up at the
Melbourne Gift & Lifestyle fair from
20–22 March.
The sold-out Gold Coast Trade
Days, held at the QT Hotel on 7–8
March, was declared an unequivocal
success by exhibitors, who praised
the strong turnout from retailers and
positive energy.
Gary Fitz-Roy, managing director
Expertise Events, said, “The Trade
Days format is about reconnecting
the industry and the community,
and the Gold Coast event did that in
spades. It’s underlined how much
people want to get back to being faceto-face.
To see people with smiling
faces speaks volumes.”
Daniel Jacuk, director DJ Diamond
Designs, was enthusiastic, telling
Jeweller, “I thought the event was
fantastic! It was professionally run
from start to finish – [the organisers]
did a fabulous job.
“This was my first ‘mini fair’ and we
were very happy with the results.
Not only did we meet new clients,
we also made sales in excess of our
expectations. We would be very happy
to be a part of this event in the future,
and also expand to other states.”
The following weekend, Sydney’s ICC
Exhibition Centre in Darling Harbour
– the same venue that hosts the
International Jewellery & Watch Fair
(IJWF) – was the setting for that city’s
Trade Days, which were also sold out.
Buying group Leading Edge Group
Jewellers (LEGJ) had a presence at
the Sydney Trade Days, with head
of jewellery Claire Packett telling
Jeweller, “Having the opportunity
to reconnect within the industry in
a face-to-face setting was really
beneficial for building relationships.
Being a part of a trade show after a
long hiatus was a great experience
and one could feel the excitement
amongst exhibitors and visitors.
“The location at the ICC was ideal and
a wonderful place to showcase the
latest in industry offerings,”
she added.
The Nationwide Jewellers buying
group was present at all the Trade
Days, with managing director Colin
Pocklington explaining, “Our view
is that we look at the sum of all of
the Trade Days together. So far, it’s
been a great success with many
members very happy to be able to
meet with us and our suppliers for
the first time in 18 months.”
Speaking to Jeweller after the
Melbourne Gift & Lifestyle fair,
Pocklington noted lower foot traffic
at the event’s Jewellery Pavilion
compared with the Sydney Trade
Days, which he attributed to different
retail conditions between Victoria
and NSW.
“Several of our Victorian and
Tasmanian members attended the
Sydney event... I don’t think that
people in Melbourne have reached the
CONTINUED ON PAGE 25
Featuring the
delicate pink tone of
Argyle pink diamonds
E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199

News
Australian gemstone
dealer charged with
terrorism offences
Melbourne gemstone dealer Ahmed Luqman Talib was arrested
on Thursday 25 March.. Image credit: Australian Federal Police
A Melbourne gemstone dealer, who was sanctioned
last year by the US Treasury for links to terrorist
organisation al-Qaeda, has been denied bail after his
arrest in a counter-terrorism sting.
Ahmed Luqman Talib, 31, was arrested in Victoria
on Thursday 25 March and extradited to Queensland,
where he appeared before Brisbane Arrest
Courts on Monday 29 March alongside
Brisbane-based associate Gabriel Crazzi, 34,
the Brisbane Times reports.
According to the Australian Federal Police (AFP), the
two men were detained “for their alleged involvement
in running a sophisticated terrorist network that
facilitated the travel of a number of Australian foreign
terrorist fighters to Syria between 2012 and 2014.”
Tiffany & Co. and Costco ‘counterfeit’
court case continues
The long-running legal battle between
Tiffany & Co. and discount retailer Costco
has hit another snag, seven months after a
$US21 million ($AU29 million) summary
judgment against Costco was overturned.
The dispute, which dates back to 2013,
centres on a collection of six-prong diamond
engagement rings sold by Costco with the
descriptor “Tiffany” on the tags and signage.
An estimated 3,349 customers purchased the
Costco rings, netting Costco $US3.7 million in
profits. A 1-carat platinum solitaire ring with
VS clarity was listed at $US6,399.99 – a similar
ring on the Tiffany & Co. website retails for
$US14,000.
Tiffany & Co. argues that the rings constituted
trademark infringement and counterfeiting,
as it was possible customers were misled to
believe that the rings were manufactured by
Tiffany & Co. It also contends that Costco had
instructed suppliers to copy its ring designs.
Meanwhile, Costco claims that the descriptor
“Tiffany” refers to the six-prong setting and
that “Tiffany setting” could be considered a
generic term in the jewellery industry.
In August 2020, the US Court of Appeals for
the Second Circuit referred the case back to a
district court, on the grounds that a jury trial
should have taken place.
The judgment stated, “A jury could reasonably
conclude that consumers of diamond
engagement rings would know or learn that
‘Tiffany’ describes a style of setting not unique
to rings manufactured by Tiffany, and [could]
recognize [sic] that Costco used the term only
in that descriptive sense.”
However, Costco filed a motion to prevent
a jury trial in February and sought to block
Tiffany & Co. from seeking punitive damages,
claiming it must prove lost profits instead.
Tiffany & Co. – which was acquired by luxury
conglomerate Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in
January – opposed the motion, arguing that
it is entitled to seek punitive damages under
New York law, as established by the court. In a
joint-status report filed on 12 March, Tiffany &
Co. refused a virtual jury trial but agreed to an
in-person trial, once it is safe to conduct.
According to media reports, an out-of-court
settlement has been discussed.
Second man jailed over $3.2 million heist
New limited-edition Argyle pink diamond coin unveiled
The latest edition to The Jewelled Range is The Jewelled Horse, following on from 2020’s The Jewelled Tiger, 2019’s
The Jewelled Dragon, and 2018’s The Jewelled Phoenix
Australian precious-metal refiner The Perth
Mint has released the latest in its limitededition
‘The Jewelled Range’ of Argyle pink
diamond coins, created in conjunction with
pink diamond specialist supplier Glajz.
The latest edition to The Jewelled Range is
The Jewelled Horse, following on from 2020’s
The Jewelled Tiger, 2019’s The Jewelled
Dragon, and 2018’s The Jewelled Phoenix.
The animals are selected for their relevance
to Chinese culture, with the horse associated
with vitality, nobility, and power.
Each of the eight Jewelled Horse coins weighs
283.5g (10oz) and is crafted from 99.99 per
cent pure yellow gold and 18-carat rose gold,
hand-set with 2.76-carats of fancy intense
vivid pink and purplish-pink Argyle diamonds.
Neil Vance, general manager – minted
products at The Perth Mint, told Jeweller,
“From concept to market, The Perth Mint’s
process entails detailed designs, lengthy
consultation processes, meticulous die
craftsmanship and of course the setting of
each unique diamond.
“With the prestige of The Jewelled Range
and the Mint’s other Argyle pink diamond
collaborations, a lot of work goes into
developing the final prototype to deliver
excellence for discerning investors and
collectors alike”
NEIL VANCE, THE PERTH MINT
“With the prestige of The Jewelled Range
and the Mint’s other Argyle pink diamond
collaborations, a lot of work goes into
developing the final prototype to deliver
excellence for discerning investors and
collectors alike.”
CONTINUED ON PAGE 25
MORE BREAKING NEWS
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM
The alleged syndicate – based in southern
Queensland – “maintained a religiously motivated
violent extremist ideology” and cultivated a network
across Australia, Turkey and Syria in order to support
organisations including Jabhat al-Nusra, also
described as ‘al-Qaeda in Syria’.
In October 2020, the US government designated
Talib as an ‘associated facilitator’ of al-Qaeda and
subsequently froze his US-based assets as well
as prohibiting his trading in the US or with any
US citizens.
An official statement from the US Department of the
Treasury’s Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC)
declared Talib “has had financial dealings in a number
of countries and is involved in dealing gemstones,
which provide him with the ability to move funds
internationally for the benefit of al-Qaeda.”
Following the US announcement, Victoria Police,
Australian Federal Police, and Australian Security
Intelligence Organisation (ASIO) officers executed
a search warrant of Talib’s home in the Melbourne
suburb of Doncaster, though no charges were laid.
Talib has now been charged with a single count of
preparations for foreign incursions into foreign states
CONTINUED ON PAGE 24
22 | April 2021
Daniel Ede, the second man involved in the
April 2020 robbery of Collins Street gold
dealer Melbourne Gold Company (MGC), has
been sentenced to a maximum of five years
and nine months in jail for his role in the heist.
Ede, 38, was an employee of MGC and initially
thought to be a victim during the robbery, in
which fellow Melbourne man Karl Kachami,
48, held him at gunpoint before making off
with gold bullion, jewellery, and cash valued
at $3.2 million.
However, police later arrested both men,
alleging they had planned the heist together.
The Age reports that Ede, as a manager,
knew that a quantity of gold bullion was
being delivered to the business three days
before the April 27 robbery, disabled a
security alarm, led Kachami to the safes, and
signalled him to pull out his gun.
While Kachami later led police to a cache of
stolen goods, more than $300,000 remains
missing. Restitution orders have been made
against both men. Kachami was jailed for four
years in November, with a minimum of two
years to serve before he is eligible for parole.
Ede – who has been in custody since May
last year – initially denied involvement in
the robbery, but eventually pleaded guilty in
October 2020.
In sentencing Ede, County Court Judge David
Sexton described the robbery – one of the
largest in Victorian history – as a “brazen,
sophisticated and well-thought-out criminal
endeavour targeted for maximum financial
return”. He noted that Ede had committed an
“egregious breach of trust” with his employer,
MGC director Michael Kukulka, whom he had
known for 15 years.
The Court heard that Ede had been under
significant financial pressure due to failed
investments and his sons’ school fees.
During an appearance at the County Koori
Court last month, Ede also claimed to have
been subjected to bullying and racism at his
“toxic” workplace, which Kukulka denied.
However, Ede denied seeing himself as
a “victim” and admitted the robbery was
“disgraceful”. Judge Sexton commended Ede
for taking responsibility; Ede will be eligible
for parole in three years and nine months.
Australian leading wholesaler, specialising in manufacturing
9ct and 18ct yellow gold, rose gold and white gold.
Machine made and hand made, any kind, chains and bracelets,
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News
New owner takes over historic Australian diamond mine
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 18
Peter Ravenscroft, managing director and CEO BDM,
said in the ASX statement, “We are delighted to have
been able to successfully secure this transaction,
which ticks many of our strategic boxes as we build
out Burgundy as the world’s leading mid-cap diamond
company. It is one of our focus jurisdictions of low-risk
diamond countries.”
He added, “We look forward to working with Gibb River
through an orderly transition period.”
Ravenscroft emphasised that BDM would operate
“in close concert with the local traditional owners,
respecting the heritage and fragile environment of this
important region of the country”.
Meanwhile, Perth-headquartered Lucapa Diamond
Company (Lucapa), which operates the Lulo and
Mothae mines in Angola and Lesotho, respectively, has
confirmed its intention to acquire Australia’s only other
remaining diamond mine.
The Merlin Diamond Mine in the Northern Territory is
currently controlled by the liquidators of previous owner
Merlin Diamonds Ltd.
“Following the finalisation of due diligence in a
competitive bid process, Lucapa is advancing to
final stage negotiations which includes finalisation
of transaction structure and drafting of legal
documentation”
STEPHEN WETHERALL, LUCAPA DIAMOND COMPANY
US fancy colour diamond supplier establishes
Australian office
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 20
Gant added that Perth was a natural
choice for the new office, as its time
zone and flight connections make it
ideally suited as a base for business in
the Asia-Pacific market.
The Australian office, officially opened on
1 March, is LJ West Diamonds’ second
location outside the US; the business also
has an office in Hong Kong.
“We have one of the biggest inventories
of Argyle pink diamonds in the wholesale
business,” Gant said.
“Where LJ West stands apart is that we
want to support the legacy of Argyle as
one of the greatest fancy colour diamond
finds in the 20th Century; not just through
the sale of the pink diamonds, but in making
them available for people to see and enjoy
through museums and other forms as well,
so Argyle is not forgotten.”
He added, “The fact that the mine has closed
is just a chapter of the story that
has ended. It’s as if a famous artist
has passed away and what remains is
the artworks.”
LJ West Diamonds director Larry West
approached Gant following his departure from
Rio Tinto Marketing in Singapore, where he
was general manager.
Gant’s early career was in Rio Tinto’s
diamond operations: “I began my career in
the diamond industry at Argyle, working there
for about 10 years in polished diamond sales
and towards the end of my time there I was
responsible for global sales of pink diamonds
and had quite a significant involvement in
the exclusive pink diamond tenders,” he told
Jeweller.
LJ West Diamonds director Larry
West approached Gant following his
departure from Rio Tinto Marketing
in Singapore, where he was general
manager. Gant’s early career was in
Rio Tinto’s diamond operations
Following 15 years overseas, Gant and his
family returned to Perth and he seized the
opportunity to return to the fancy colour
diamond market.
“It’s one of the interesting things about this
industry – people are in it for the long haul.
It was very nice to step back in and meet
a lot of familiar faces and be welcomed
back,” Gant said.
Alongside Argyle pink diamonds, LJ West
Diamonds Australia supplies blue, yellow,
green, orange and red diamonds, alongside
the Scott West luxury jewellery collection.
New limited edition Argyle pink diamond coin
unveiled
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 23
The coins are considered legal tender,
however Vance confirmed none of The
Jewelled Range has been used as currency
to date.
“Should the coin be used as legal tender, it
has a purchasing capacity of $2,000 however
would have cost $179,000 and above to
acquire,” he said.
Vance told Jeweller that the majority of the
interest in The Jewelled Range has come from
“coin collectors and luxury product customers
in Australia and Singapore. A number of items
have also been sold to Europe and the US.
“To our knowledge, a full set has not been
attained by just one collector,” he added.
In addition to The Jewelled Range, Glajz –
a Singapore-based Argyle Pink Diamond
Authorised partner and regional ambassador
for the Natural Color Diamond Association
(NCDIA) – and The Perth Mint also created a
number of other limited-edition products.
These include 2013’s Boab Ingot Collection
and the Discovery Coin, which is valued at
$2.48 million.
Positive response to jewellery industry Trade Days
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 21
same level of optimism as those in other states,
because of their much longer and more recent
lockdowns,” he explained.
Jacinta Collins, general manager Golden Mile,
told Jeweller that the Melbourne Gift & Lifestyle
fair saw a strong response from homewares and
mixed jewellery-and-gift retailers, but a more
muted showing from fine jewellery-only retailers.
Melbourne Gift & Lifestyle built up the momentum
towards the penultimate Trade Days in South
Australia, which was held on 27-28 March at the
Adelaide Showgrounds.
Greville Ingham, national sales manager, Peter W
Beck, said, “We found this event, along with the
other jewellery Trade Days around the country, to
be a really positive step to reigniting the industry.
“We have used this as our opportunity to connect
with and show support for the industry after
what has been an extraordinary 12 months of
uncertainty and change.”
Buying group Independent Jewellers Collective
(IJC) was present at the Adelaide Trade Days, in
addition to Sydney and the Gold Coast.
CEO Josh Zarb said, “The chance to catch up with
our existing retailers was as important to us as the
opportunity to meet new potential members. We
have close to 20 stores throughout South Australia
and I saw members from pretty much all of them.
“South Australia and Western Australia don’t
have standalone jewellery events, as such,
and Trade Days is a cost-effective way for
suppliers to service those markets. I think
Trade Days will play a role in the future”
GARY FITZ-ROY
Expertise Events
“They came from all over – Port Lincoln, Wyalla,
all the regional areas right through to Adelaide
central and the Adelaide Hills.”
Fitz-Roy noted several exhibitors expressed a
desire for the Trade Days format to continue in
Adelaide in the future, noting, “South Australia
and Western Australia don’t have standalone
jewellery events, as such, and Trade Days is a
cost-effective way for suppliers to service those
markets. I think Trade Days will play a role in the
future.”
At the time of publication, the final Trade Days in
Perth was yet to take place.
In a statement on the Lucapa website dated 24
December 2020, managing director Stephen Wetherall
said, “Merlin is a multi-pit mine development opportunity
with underground mining potential and is home to
Australia’s largest recovered diamond of 104 carats.
“Lucapa is of the view that the tenements also have
considerable exploration potential with a significant
number of unresolved exploration targets.”
He added, “Following the finalisation of due diligence
in a competitive bid process, Lucapa is advancing to
final stage negotiations which includes finalisation
of transaction structure and drafting of legal
documentation.
“Until such time as the legal documentation is in agreed
form and executed, there can be no assurance that the
acquisition of Merlin will be completed.”
The Federal Court ordered Merlin Diamonds Ltd
into liquidation in October 2019 following an ASIC
investigation.
Lucapa has also undertaken diamond exploration
at the Brooking site in Western Australia, which is
approximately 50km from Ellendale.
Other companies currently undertaking diamond
exploration in the Kimberley include Astro Resources,
Jindalee Resources, and GeoCrystal.
Australian gemstone dealer charged with
terrorism offences
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 22
for the purpose of engaging in hostile
activities, relating to his alleged provision of
“information and advice” to an unidentified
person, known as ‘Witness 1’, for safe passage
into Syria, the Brisbane Times reports.
“We seized $80,000 in cash, a number
of gemstones of high-value, also
various electronic devices that we
will examine over the next period”
COMMANDER STEPHEN DAMETTO
Australian Federal Police Counter-Terrorism
& Special Investigations Command
British-born Talib is director of Talib & Sons,
a coloured gemstones supplier that was
registered with the Australian Securities &
Investments Commission in May 2019. Talib’s
Australian wife, Jerry Campbell, is reportedly
a minority member shareholder.
Commander Stephen Dametto, AFP Counter-
Terrorism & Special Investigations Command,
said, “We seized $80,000 in cash, a number
of gemstones of high-value, also various
electronic devices that we will examine over
the next period.”
He added that the AFP was committed
to “holding people to account for their
involvement in supporting terrorism and
terrorist organisations”.
If convicted, Talib faces a maximum penalty
of 10 years imprisonment.
Appearing for Talib in the Brisbane court,
defence barrister Leon Ackermann argued
that the Crown’s case was weak and that
allegations against Talib were not as serious
as the charges levelled at Crazzi. He also
stated that Talib was the breadwinner
for his family, including his wife and their
eight children, aged three months to 10 years.
Talib’s bail application was refused and
the matter was adjourned to Brisbane
Magistrates Court on 25 June.
24 | April 2021

10 Years Ago
Introducing…
Historic Headlines
RFID could ‘revolutionise’
jewellery store operations
The introduction of RFID tagging has enabled a
prominent Queensland jewellery store to balance
its stock on a daily basis, therefore significantly
reducing the risk of shrinkage and allowing the
store to maintain a tight grip on inventory.
The technology involves inserting a signal-omitting
microchip into the Gilletts Jewellers’ pre-existing
product tags. When a hand-held RFID scanner is
passed over the display case, the tags return the
scanner’s signal, allowing the scanner to read the
stock balance of an entire display case in minutes.
Gilletts Jewellers owner Don Gillett explained, “At
night when we put things away we can scan it and
we know what we’re putting back in the safe is
what we put out in the morning, minus what was
sold that day.”
Gillett said RFID would also give his store a
competitive advantage, because more detailed
inventory information will mean he can analyse his
store data to a much more detailed level.
New scheme to get
businesses online
A national initiative hopes to eliminate the three
factors believed to be stopping Australian small
businesses from setting up online: time, fear,
and cost.
The scheme, called ‘Getting Aussie Business
Online’, has been established with the aid of
international business management solutions
provider MYOB.
Its aim is to give small businesses – many of whom
have no internet presence – the opportunity to
establish their own website for free using MYOB
Atlas, a simple website set-up tool.
Time Machine: April 2011
A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in Jeweller.
4 CIBJO clarifies new pearl nomenclature
4 Charm suppliers celebrate royal wedding
4 Pandora ‘Concept Stores’ to debut in NZ
4 Australian brands set sights overseas
4 Piccolo to expand into affordable silver
April 2011
ON THE COVER Skagen
Editors’ Desk
4Shaken by the Shift: “There’s no doubt
in my mind the Australian jewellery
industry has experienced a seismic shift
in the past five years, driven in the main
by branded products. But there are two
things that have been missed.
Many jewellers who were, or are, a
brand in their own right took their eye off
the ball while reaping the rewards of the
charm and bead trend, and those that
had no brand recognition missed the
opportunity to create it.”
Soapbox
4Internet is Here to Stay: “The online
playing field is open to everyone, and
bricks-and-mortar retailers should
embrace the technology and the rivalry
rather than campaigning to get their
internet-only counterparts ejected.
Many buyers now do their research
online even if they eventually buy on
the high street. The trick for physical
stores, therefore is to learn how
internet players work and exploit their
marketing techniques to promote their
own store and product.”
– Richard Prout, CEO 1791 Diamonds
STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON
What’s the Story?:
The concept of branding has been a
relative late-comer to the jewellery
industry compared with all other retail
categories. Indeed, many jewellery
marketers have either misunderstood
branding or believed jewellery can’t be
branded. Yet there’s clearly so much to
gain from the unique selling proposition
that branding can create.
Kiwis unite to battle
earthquake tragedy
New Zealand’s jewellery retailers, valuers and
associations have banded together to help their
earthquake-affected peers in Christchurch get
back on their feet.
The country’s two lead associations, Jewellers
Association of New Zealand (JANZ) and
Jewellers and Watchmakers New Zealand
(JWNZ), joined forces with the New Zealand
Retailers’ Association to collectively lend
their support.
In early March, JWNZ and JANZ collaborated
to set up a bank account for anyone wanting to
donate to affected jewellers.
Concern over new
consumer laws
Jewellers are being urged to take note of
changes concerning customer testimonial and
lay-by laws that came into effect on 1 January
as part of the new federal Competition and
Consumer Act.
Paul Hesse, commercial litigation specialist
at Riordans Lawyers in Melbourne, explained,
“The onus is now on the [retailer] using the
testimonial to provide evidence that it is not false
or misleading.”
Penalties are up to $1.1 million for a company
and $220,000 for individuals. There are also now
five key terms stores must adhere to in lay-by
laws, with penalties up to $30,000 for a company
and $6,000 for an individual.
READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM
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26 | April 2021

INSIDE
My Store
Penwarden Fine Jewellery
TORONTO, CANADA with Linda Penwarden, owner and designer • SPACE COMPLETED The store opened in 2003 and was renovated in 2014.
MAY BIRTHSTONE
THE EMERALD’S STAGE
Our Support Program to You
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and increase your Emerald birthstone sales this May.
Clients can borrow one-of-a-kind Emerald rough
specimens* to enhance store window displays, and
4Who is the target market and how did
they influence the store design?
Penwarden Fine Jewellery serves a broad range
of customers, from young couples looking
for their first piece of bridal jewellery, to the
neighbourhood mum looking for a gift, to the
retired CEO looking for a piece to commemorate
her milestones.
Custom design is also a very large focus at
Penwarden. The boutique’s design is eclectic,
which reflects the many bespoke pieces that I
have designed.
One specific focus of ours is offering a very
warm and relaxed style of service, and the
aesthetic of the boutique reflects this mood as it
is comfortable and not ‘fussy’.
We have kept the store’s design quite simple,
using a monochrome colour palette of black,
white, and grey to keep the focus on the
exclusive designs that we offer.
There is a private area in the back of the store
where a lot of design concepts get started, and
a special wedding ring area where customers
are welcome to sit down and try on rings.
4With the relationship between store
ambience and consumer purchasing in
mind, which features encourage sales?
We believe that – apart from our stellar service –
the relaxed, chic ambience of the boutique puts
our customers at ease, which encourages sales.
Our busy studio workshop is on the second floor
and because of that, we are able to re-size and
repair pieces very quickly.
Our customers value knowing that we take care
of their pieces after purchase.
4What is the store design’s
wow factor?
I believe that the store’s ‘wow’
factor is actually the custommade
security grille in the
front window!
With its sweeping lines, it
reflects my jewellery’s unique,
clean, organic style.
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MAURO CARVAJAL
COMPANY DIRECTOR
CONTACT US FOR SUPPORT PROGRAM INFORMATION
28 | April 2021
+ 6 1 3 437 3 42 8 1 • contact@colonialgemstones.com
www.colonialgemstones.com

INSIDE
Now & Then
Catanach’s Jewellers
Celebrating 147 Years • MELBOURNE, VIC • A moment with Amanda Catanach, managing director
MILESTONE S
1870
SHOWCASE
JEWELLERS
Diamond setter George
William Catanach
emigrates to Melbourne
from London, UK, and
begins working for
Thomas Young & Son
1874
Catanach founds GW
Catanach Manufacturing
Jeweller at Stafford
Chambers on Elizabeth
Street in the CBD
1893
L to R Portrait of William Mercer Catanach, son of founder George William Catanach, who was made a partner in
the business in 1906; the iconic Catanach’s premises in Melbourne’s Royal Arcade.
Now named GW Catanach
& Co., the business takes
Above: Catanach’s Jewellers moved into its
current High Street Armadale site in the 1980s.
over retail premises at
George William Catanach migrated
from London, UK to Australia in 1870
aboard the ship Swiftsure, aged 24.
A trained diamond setter, he filled a
need for skilled workers to manufacture
the many items of jewellery starting
to be produced in Melbourne due to
the Gold Rush.
As the only diamond setter in the colony,
his skills were in demand and he worked
for several Melbourne jewellers until
1874, when he opened GW Catanach
Manufacturing Jeweller on Elizabeth
Street in the CBD.
He was a founding member of the Victorian
Jewellers’ Association manufacturing
sector and built his business on the
premise that quality and beauty must go
hand-in-hand.
This value has been passed down through
five generations of the Catanach family.
By 1889, the business had expanded so
much that George William could purchase
a four-storey bluestone building at
290 Little Collins Street, which was named
Catanach House.
Unfortunately, the economic depression
of the 1890s soon arrived and the building
was sold within five years to the London
Chartered Bank.
Happily, the next premises at the junction
of Little Collins Street and the Royal Arcade
fared better – the business stayed there for
more than 90 years, with the corner being
known colloquially as ‘Catanach’s Corner’.
Moving into the retail sector, the business
– renamed Catanach & Son after George’s
son William Mercer Catanach was made
a partner – continued to find success, and
was even touted in 1905’s Cyclopedia
of Victoria, which called it “one of the best
in Melbourne”.
It expanded into antiques, accessories,
and crystal as the Catanach name and
reputation for quality spread throughout
Melbourne and beyond.
The business has traded through the
‘Spanish flu’ pandemic, two World Wars
during which raw materials were virtually
non-existent, and survived a short period of
bankruptcy in the 1960s, and of course the
COVID-19 pandemic.
Over the years, Catanach’s Jewellers has
developed a strong relationship with the
horse-racing industry, making trophies for
some of the most famous races, including
the Blue Diamond Stakes, Caulfield Cup,
George Ryder, and Galaxy. We also sponsor
the MRC Foundation Race Day.
In the mid-1980s, the business underwent
one of its most significant changes with
the sale of the CBD store, moving to new
premises on Armadale’s High Street.
High Street is one of the city’s iconic
fashion and shopping precincts and its
premier ‘wedding district’, home to many
high-end bridal retailers. This change
was driven by my father Blair Peter
Catanach – who also happened to be the
first trained jeweller in the family since
founder George William.
The late 1990s brought a 13-year period
of prosperity for Catanach’s, and we
opened another store in Broome, Western
Australia.
308 Little Collins Street,
on the corner of the Royal
Arcade
1902
George’s son, William
Mercer Catanach, joins
the business and is made
a partner four years later
1927
William’s son, William
Alan “Bill” Catanach, joins
the family business
1956
Bill’s son Blair Peter
Catanach begins working
at Catanach’s Jewellers
1970s
Blair buys out his father
and step-grandmother
Sybil Catanach and
assumes control of
the company
1980
Blair’s son Peter beings
working at Catanach’s,
closely followed by his
siblings Amanda and
David
1985
Catanach’s sells its
Royal Arcade premises
and the following year,
purchases and opens a
new store at 1212 High
Street in fashionable
Armadale
1997
Amanda Catanach – the
fifth generation – takes
over the family business
alongside brother David
Our success to date is based on
maintaining strong relationships with
our customers and strong links with our
suppliers to ensure we have high-quality
stock available.
We pride ourselves on staying relevant
to our customers, providing quality
and service, and employing staff that
represent our family and values.
Managing everything can be exhausting,
but I am passionate about my business
and work incredibly hard to maintain
the focus and meet our criteria to keep
its momentum.
COVID-19 has been a dreadful time for
us – and many other retailers in Victoria
– having been closed for nearly six of the
past 12 months.
Our website was integral during this
time, but unfortunately, we were not
allowed to manufacture or consult.
That is one of the biggest challenges
I have faced in running the business.
Planning for the future of Catanach’s
Jewellers, we are moving away from
general retail towards more ‘bespoke’
interaction with our customers.
To that end, we are currently expanding
our workshop on High Street to be able
to have more artisans working with us.
This will ensure our classic
manufacturing skills last for many
generations to come.
Read the full length interview
on Jewellermagazine.com
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30 | April 2021
Showcase Jewellers provides with our Senior Management Team Jorge Joaquim and Nicola Adams.

FEATURE
Argyle Pink Diamonds
ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDS | A Timeless Legacy
Gimel
A
Linneys
Graff
There is no way to discuss the pink diamond
category without the Argyle Mine.
Discovered in 1979 and operational since
the mid-1980s, the Rio Tinto owned-and-operated
site – located 550km southwest of Darwin, in the
remote Kimberley region of Western Australia –
produced 90 to 95 per cent of the world’s pink and
red diamonds before its closure in November 2020.
Yet those numbers, while impressive, almost seem to
belie the true miraculousness and scale of the project.
LEGACY
As the era of the Argyle Mine draws to a close,
ARABELLA RODEN explores the compelling history and enduring
legacy of the world’s premier source of pink diamonds
Measuring approximately 50 hectares, with a depth
of 600m, the Argyle Mine was at one point the largest
diamond mine on Earth.
Visible from space, it nearly doubled the world’s diamond
output in the 1980s and ’90s; by 1986, it had made
Australia the world’s leading diamond producer, according
to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).
Professor Stuart Kells, author of new book Argyle: The
Impossible Story of Australian Diamonds, tells Jeweller,
“There were so many things that were unprecedented in
this story, and one of them was the size of the deposit.
At the time, it was equivalent to all of the other major
diamond mines combined. The scale of it is incredible;
you don’t get a sense of it from photos.”
He adds, “The discovery itself was difficult; using
helicopters and small boats in a remote part of Australia,
searching for diamonds in an area where they hadn’t been
found before. That was the first challenge.
“There were a few false starts, such as finding the
Ellendale field which proved to be uneconomic. It was a
bleak time before they found the actual deposit, with this
incredible concentration of diamonds. Almost straight
away there were claim-jumpers who tried to snatch the
rights to the deposit,” says Prof Kells.
Mondial Pink Diamond Atelier
While an estimated 72–80 per cent of Argyle’s 865 millioncarat
output was brown stones – branded as ‘champagne’,
‘chocolate’, and ‘cognac’ diamonds – its most enduring
legacy is as the home of the world’s most vivid reds and
pinks, which made up less than 1 per cent of its output.
April 2021 | 33

Pink Diamonds jewellery brands.
“Argyle pink and red diamonds display unparalleled colour –
those strong hues – and of course there is their rarity. They
are also ethically mined here in Australia, and each one
comes with an Argyle certificate that guarantees its origin,”
he explains.
LJ West Diamonds has been an Argyle Authorised Partner
for more than 30 years and has amassed the largest
collection of Argyle pink diamonds in the US.
LJ West vice-president Scott West, son of founder Larry
West, tells Jeweller that his father became “hooked” on the
diamonds after purchasing his first parcel of Argyle pinks
around 1990, following a visit to the mine itself.
“Once back in New York, Larry brought the diamonds to a
buyer who was a maven in rare colours. Larry knew from
past negotiations with this customer that the person would
always bring out comparable stones in order to negotiate
down the price.
“This time, however, the customer did not have any
comparable stones,” West says.
“Larry could see he desperately wanted to purchase the goods
since they were unlike anything he had – it was then Larry was
hooked, and LJ West Diamonds has never looked back!”
Michael Neuman, director of Mondial Pink Diamond Atelier in
1989 A second direct sales office is opened in Mumbai
Alan Bronstein, president of the Natural Color Diamond
2012
Association (NCDIA), explains, “The allure of Argyle pink
Sydney, which is one of just 32 retailers worldwide to bear the
1991 Jeweller Robert Mouawad buys the entire Tender collection of 43
diamonds is that the finest ones have unique hues and
Argyle ‘Select Atelier’ designation, tells Jeweller, “Argyle was
pinks, three blues, and one fancy greyish-greenish yellow diamond
saturations, which predominate this specific locality. Until
the world’s only reliable source of beautiful pink diamonds
2013
ever in history. “For those of us who have been working
7th Tender A second contract is signed with De Beers, set to
37 years ago, such deep pink colours in natural diamonds
1991
were rarely seen.”
with them pretty much since the mine began, they are also
expire in 1996
2014
incredibly special because they are a unique Australian gift
1992
8th Tender The Tender experiences a record number of bidders,
to the world – the apogee, pinnacle, exemplar of their kind.
2018
with winners from 15 countries including US, UK, Belgium,
“There are only a handful of things from Australia that are so
Switzerland, Japan and Italy
treasured throughout the world.”
2019
3.3%
TABLE 1: COLOUR BREAKDOWN - TOTAL STONES MINED
Violet, Grey,
Colours
Total Carats
Sources: Jeweller
analysis, Leibish. Based
A HISTORY of ARGYLE
2.1%
Red &
Blue & Other
Brown 718,815,000 80.31% on 865 million carats total
AND ITS SIGNATURE TENDERS
65 STONES
production. Percentages
Purplish Red
Yellow 134,075,000 15.5% are approximate and
42 STONES
extrapolated from publicly
White 21,625,000 2.5%
available information. Less
Grey 13,840,000 1.6% than 0.1 per cent of the
1969 Argyle production is pink,
1994
Pink, Red, Violet 778,500 0.09% red and violet diamonds.
1972
1973
1979
1980
1981
1983
1985
1985
1986
1987
1993
1994
A Timeless Legacy | ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDS
Geologist Ewen Tyler, employed by the London-based Tanganyika
Holdings, requests the Perth office to design and cost a search
program for diamond kimberlites in the Kimberley region of
Western Australia, and forms the Kalumburu Joint Venture to fund
the search
Reconnaissance sampling begins in the Kimberley
The first diamond is found, on the eve of Ewen Tyler’s
45th birthday
In August, samples procured by geologist Maureen Muggeridge at
Smoke Creek reveal two diamonds; later that year, on 2 October,
the Argyle kimberlite pipe is discovered between two ridges when
geologist Frank Hughes notices a diamond sticking out of an ant hill
The first ore reserve is calculated, estimating 74 million tonnes with
a grade of 6.7 carats of diamonds per tonne – the valuation of the
total diamonds is $US3.25 billion
Diamond (Ashton Joint Venture) Agreement Act 1981 is enacted
by the West Australian government, containing conditions such
as building a town at the Argyle site (which could be delayed until
1987); 22.5 per cent net profit royalty; and an ad valorem royalty of
7.5 per cent
Final feasibility study and financing are completed, with at least
$US175 million in debt from banks and a De Beers contract to buy
all gem-quality diamonds, half the lower-quality stones and half the
industrial goods, until 1991
1st Tender The first Argyle Tender takes place in Antwerp,
Netherlands, with 33 stones on offer
Large-scale mining begins on the main ore body, and the Good
Neighbour Agreement is signed with some traditional owners, and
a direct sales office is opened in Antwerp
2nd Tender Geneva, Switzerland is added to the Argyle Tender
viewing schedule
3rd Tender Setting a record that still stands today, 83 diamonds
are offered at the Argyle Tender
9th Tender Robert Mouawad again buys the whole
collection, totalling 46 diamonds, for $US2.25 million
The Argyle Mine’s annual production peaks, with 42
million carats recovered; the Indo-Argyle Diamond
Council is founded to increase international demand for
Argyle products cut and polished in India
94.6%
Pink
1883 STONES
“Even though Argyle produced virtually the entire world’s
supply of pink diamonds, the volumes were extremely small;
a year’s production would fit in a single Champagne flute,”
Patrick Coppens, general manager – sales and marketing,
Rio Tinto Copper & Diamonds, tells Jeweller.
“They are beyond rare – and from one of the most beautiful
and remote places on earth, the East Kimberley region of
Western Australia.
Rio Tinto estimates that Argyle
pink diamond prices have
appreciated by 500 per cent
over the past 20 years; overall
pink prices rose 116 per cent
between 2009 and 2019.”
“Additionally, there is no other natural fancy coloured
diamond that possesses the colour saturation and the
colour palette. Their natural beauty has an almost instant
and global appreciation akin to fine art. Indeed, each
Argyle pink diamond is a work of art,” Coppens adds.
Indeed, Argyle pinks have their own unique colour
grading system.
He adds, “There are examples of similar colours
from other mines in the world, but Argyle has
given some connoisseurs the opportunity to own
this rare specimen of Earth’s geology. What
they lack in size compared to other natural
fancy colour diamonds, they make up in their
captivating visual allure.”
There are other appealing aspects of these
diamonds too, says Steve der Bedrossian, CEO
SAMS Group, which supplies loose Argyle pink
diamonds as well as Pink Kimberley and Blush
TABLE 2 + CHART 1: COLOUR BREAKDOWN - TENDER STONES
Colours No. Stones %
Pink 1883 94.6
Red, Purplish Red 42 2.1
Violet, Grey, Blue, Other 65 3.3
Sources: Jeweller analysis,
GIA, Leibish. Based on
1,990 total stones tendered
between 1985 and 2020.
Figures are approximate
and exclude Petite Suites
and Pink Everlastings.
It’s a sentiment echoed by Harsh Maheshwari, director of
fancy colour diamond supplier Kunming Diamonds, which
began stocking Argyle pinks in 2011.
“An Argyle pink is special because it gives you the experience
of Australia, and of the Argyle Mine. Pink diamonds were the
country’s ‘hidden gem’ up until 37 years ago and Argyle has
1995
1996
1997
1998
2001
2002
2005
2008
2009
2010
2010
2020
ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDS | A Timeless Legacy
10th Tender The Tender is viewed
in Hong Kong and Singapore for the
first time
11th Tender The Tender is viewed in
Tokyo, Hong Kong and Geneva, with
180 bids received for the 47 diamonds
on offer, generating US$4.5 million
(or more than $US100,000 per carat)
12th Tender Perth and London are
added as viewing locations
13th Tender The first Sydney viewing of the Tender is held; the
Tender also beats its record total sale price with almost half the
diamonds being 1 carat or larger, including the largest fancy
purplish-red diamond ever graded by the Gemological Institute
of America (GIA)
14th Tender New York is added as a viewing location, with the
standout stone being Lot 62, a 2.66-carat heart-shaped fancy vivid
purplish-pink
17th Tender The first stone over 4 carats is tendered, a 4.15-carat
fancy intense purplish pink radiant
The Argyle Joint Venture, which owns and operates the mine, is
acquired by Rio Tinto and Ewen Tyler retires, ending his involvement
with the project
Indigenous Land Use Agreement and Participation Agreement is
signed by Rio Tinto and traditional owners, the Gidga, Miriwoong,
Wularr, and Malgnin people
24th Tender Rio Tinto starts naming the ‘signature’ Tender stones
25th Tender The first Indian viewing of the Tender takes place in
Mumbai, and blue diamonds are included for the first time with the
287-carat Once In A Blue Moon Collection
Rio Tinto announces plans to convert the mine from open pit to
underground, extending its projected life to 2020
26th Tender Shanghai and Beijing become the first cities in
Mainland China to host Argyle Tender viewings
28th Tender The Tender celebrates Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond
Jubilee by exhibiting at Kensington Palace in London
Rio Tinto completes the underground conversion works, and opencut
mining operations cease
30th Tender The Tender breaks its highest average price per
carat record on its 30th anniversary
34th Tender Highest average price per carat record is broken again
35th Tender Supplementing the main Tender, Rio Tinto offers the
Pink Everlastings Collection, comprised of Argyle diamonds across
the pink colour spectrum weighing 0.14 carats or less
36th Tender Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, selected buyers
are invited to ‘virtually preview’ the penultimate Argyle Tender; 12
additional lots of curated ‘Petite Suites’ of never-before-seen diamonds
are offered alongside the 62 main lots, contributing to the Tender
delivering a ‘record-breaking’ result
Graff
34 | April 2021
Moussaieff
» CONTINUED PAGE 38
April 2021 | 35

A Timeless Legacy | ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDS
Argyle Select Atelier
John Calleija
Argyle Pink Diamonds
THE FATHER of AUSTRALIAN DIAMONDS A moment with geologist Ewen Tyler AM
Geologist Ewen Tyler AM discovered all three
of Australia’s diamond mines – Argyle and
Ellendale in Western Australia, and Merlin
in the Northern Territory.
Acting against conventional wisdom, Tyler
spent the better part of a decade searching
Australia’s vast interior for diamond-bearing
kimberlites (ancient volcano ‘pipelines’ filled
with diamonds) where none had looked before.
On the verge of having his funding withdrawn,
Tyler’s team finally found a diamond in a rock
sample – but the journey was only beginning.
Here, he reflects on the miraculous Argyle
story and predicts the future of diamonds
in Australia.
How does it feel to look back on the life cycle
Argyle project?
It’s been a life’s journey. I started the search
in 1969 and we found Argyle in 1979. We
constructed the mine and brought it to
production. At one stage it was producing
40 per cent of the world’s natural diamonds.
They might not have been top quality, but
nevertheless, we had 10 times more diamonds
in a tonne of rock than the average, so we were
laughing really!
I retired from Ashton Mining in 1990, though
I kept an involvement with Argyle until 2002. It
was a very, very exciting time – a once-in-alifetime
affair. And really, from my 45th birthday
when we found the first diamond, my life has
never been quite the same.
I’ve become known as the ‘father of The
Australian diamond industry’, which is
nonsense in one sense – but it’s right in
another sense. Without me starting it, it
wouldn’t have gone anywhere!
What is your fondest memory from the project?
I think the fondest memory is the discovery of
the first diamond, on the evening of my 45th
birthday in 1973. It was nowhere near Argyle but
it represented a milestone in exploration. We
had not had any confirmation that there were
any diamonds in the Kimberley.
There had been rumours – one story was that
there was a chap in the 19th Century who had
taken some diamonds to show an abbott at a
monastery – but there was nothing on paper
that told me that diamonds had ever been found
in the Kimberley before.
We’d found a few pieces of chrome diopside a
few months before, but to actually find a sample
not only with indicator minerals, but a diamond
in it, showed we were on the right track. It took
us a long time though – it was six years before
we stood on the Argyle site.
The other great day was when we crushed the
first tonne of ore. I sent a case of Champagne to
the engineering team!
Did you ever have any doubts, or any moments
when it seemed like it might have all ended?
If we hadn’t found the diamond on my birthday,
I was expecting to be chucked out of Tanganyika
Holdings the following Christmas. I’d more or
less got my marching orders.
The money was going to dry up; they were more
interested in doing something in the North Sea
than continuing to back me. That was the first
major hurdle – and there were a lot of hurdles.
There was another when people said, “It’s no
good buying Australian diamonds – they will all
explode if you put them on the polishing wheel.”
The press were very unkind to us. If you can’t
sell your product and everyone is against you,
it’s hard to keep up enthusiasm.
There were lots of government problems too;
when we first established the project and were
showing alluvial diamonds, the West Australian
government was of the opinion they were worth
twice as much as they were, so we paid a very
substantial royalty.
The government also tried to tell us we couldn’t
do fly-in-fly-out, saying it would cost us $50
million to avoid building a town at the mine.
We could have walked then.
When was the first pink stone found at Argyle?
It was something that came out of the alluvial
production, before we began mining. Bill Leslie
[legal representative in the early years of the
project] claims to have one of the first pink
diamonds from Argyle but it was not something
that we recorded because pinks were a very,
very small percentage of the diamonds.
Talking about the pinks made people aware that
we had a mine, and we only showed them once
per year. While it wasn’t part of the equation at
the start, the pink diamonds have created the
market and awareness of the Argyle Mine itself.
What do you think about the future of diamond
mining in Australia?
I am absolutely convinced there are more
diamonds. In fact, I’m a participant in the
continuing diamond discovery about 600km
south of Argyle. The first diamond mine we
discovered was Ellendale; though we didn’t
mine it, others found there was a market for
Ellendale yellow diamonds.
It’s the same at Merlin in the Northern Territory
– another mine we discovered, and mined for a
period. It has been shut down but I think there is
some stirring to see if it can be brought back.
Is there any chance more pink diamonds will
be found in Australia?
I think there are, and I’m looking for more!
We’ve got signs of them occurring all around
Merlin, some signs around Ellendale, but not
much around Argyle.
As a nation, I believe that we’ve got to keep
exploring. It’s the nature of this continent; we
started off with gold – Melbourne wouldn’t
exist without the 1850 Gold Rush. It’s more
about finding people who are willing to join this
lunatic search! As they say, people who look for
diamonds have rocks in their heads – but it’s a
lot of fun.
To schedule an appointment, please contact us:
L. J. WesT DiamonDs inc. | 589 5th ave, suite 1102 | new York, nY 10017, U.s.a. | T +1 212 997 0940
L. J. WesT aU PTY LTD | Level 9, 225 st Georges Terrace | Perth, Wa 6000, australia | T +61 40 997 6981
36 | April 2021
info@LJWestDiamonds.com | www.LJWestDiamonds.com | www.scottWestDiamonds.com
April 2021 | 37

A Timeless Legacy | ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDS
CHART 2: TOTAL STONES TENDERED, 1985-2020
Source: Jeweller analysis, GIA, excludes Petite Suites and Pink Everlastings
NUMBER OF OF DIAMONDS TENDERED
33
33
56
56
83
83
53
53
67
67
36
36
43
43
50
50
46 47 47 47
46 47 47 47
59
59
63
63
51
51
47
47
41
41
43
43
48
48
60 60
60 60
65 65 64
65 65 64
43
43
55 55
55 55
70
70
64
64
54
54
65
65
63
63
58
58
63 64
63 64
62
62
Inset: Mondial Pink DIamond Atelier
Left: The Argyle Mine
achieved the status of the pinnacle in the diamond chain –
ultra luxury diamonds.”
He adds, “Beyond their appreciation in value over the
past few decades, Argyle pink diamonds seem to radiate
special emotions. Each one takes the form of Earth’s
hardest substance, a rare mineral by nature, and in the
most beautiful and appealing colour – pink!”
“Argyle pink and red diamonds display
unparalleled colour – those strong hues – and
of course there is their rarity. They are also
ethically mined here in Australia, and each
one comes with an Argyle certificate that
guarantees its origin”
STEVE DER BEDROSSIAN
SAMS Group Australia
Another Select Atelier, John Calleija, praises the
diamonds as “ancient treasures”: “They are 1.6 billion
years old, they were formed 160km beneath the Earth’s
surface in the East Kimberley region of Western Australia,
and nowhere else in the world will you find diamonds with
such an intensity and range of colour,” he says.
The magic of pink
In the world of fancy colour diamonds, pinks stand apart
– partially as a function of rarity and beauty, but also as
a result of shrewd promotion.
“Pink diamonds always seem to have a little more
consumer curiosity because they are the most advertised
and promoted of all the different colour diamonds,”
explains Bronstein.
“Other colour diamonds go through moments where they
are ‘commercial fads’, and demand ebbs and flows with
promotions and designers creating new pieces.”
He adds, “Yellow diamonds are easily accessible and
affordable in larger sizes than pinks, but they have not
been fully marketed to the public. Blue diamonds are even
rarer than pinks, meaning they are not affordable to most.
Therefore, they are rarely promoted or marketed, except
Mondial Pink
DIamond Atelier
0.1%
proportion of Argyle
output that was pink,
red, or violet diamonds
865m
total carats diamond
mined at Argyle over
its lifetime
via special auctions.”
Among the exclusive pink club, Argyle pinks rank
above all. Rio Tinto estimates that Argyle pink diamond
prices have appreciated by 500 per cent over the past
20 years; overall pink prices rose 116 per cent between
2009 and 2019, according to the Fancy Color Research
Foundation (FCRF).
US-based fancy colour diamond supplier Leibish first
participated in the Argyle Tender in 2010.
Director Leibish Polnauer tells Jeweller, “Pink diamonds
have fared better than all other fancy colours [in terms
of prices], but Argyle pink diamonds have had a real
boom, with exceptional increases. The strongest price
moves we noticed are in Argyle red diamonds, and we
have a few in stock.
He added, “The money we needed to spend on the
Tender is about seven times higher than 10 years ago.
Argyle diamonds were always considered rare and
valuable, long before the news of the mine’s impending
closure was announced.
“Although Rio Tinto worked exceptionally hard unearthing
as many diamonds as possible, demand has constantly
outpaced the supply.”
Yet, in the early years of Argyle, there was a distinct lack
of awareness around pink diamonds due to the sporadic
supply. It is estimated less than 2 per cent of diamonds
display noticeable colour, and less than 1 per cent of
those diamonds are pink or red.
“Construction on the Argyle Mine commenced around
1984 and it gradually gained attention, but it wasn’t until
Brisbane hosted The World Expo in 1988 that we
saw a strong increase in enquiries [about pink
diamonds],” says Calleija.
“This six-month event attracted
more than 15 million visitors and
fortunately Argyle shared news of
their pink diamond discoveries for
everyone to see.”
Adds Neuman, “In the 1980s, our
parent company was one of two
distributors for Argyle diamonds
Glajz
on the east coast of Australia.
“My first job was to go all around the country and try and
sell pink diamonds to jewellers – it was a fairly new thing,
and it was difficult to get most jewellers to appreciate the
value in a pink diamond.
“But as time went on, it started to take off as more jewellers
took up pink diamonds, advertised and promoted them.”
Trends in demand
Perhaps the most important factor in the marketing of Argyle
pink diamonds was the annual Argyle Tender, introduced in
1984 with a special viewing of 33 diamonds in Antwerp.
It has since expanded to include viewings in Geneva,
London, Sydney, Tokyo, and Perth, with some Tenders
including more than 70 stones.
“An Argyle pink is special because it gives you the
experience of Australia, and of the Argyle Mine.
Pink diamonds were the country’s ‘hidden gem’
up until 37 years ago and Argyle has achieved the
status of the pinnacle in the diamond chain”
HARSH MAHESHWARI
Kunming Diamonds
In a 2014 GIA retrospective to mark the Tender’s 30th
anniversary, authors John King, Dr James E Shigley,
and Claudia Jannucci noted the mystique of the process:
“Argyle’s Tender process only adds to the excitement that
surrounds these diamonds. The Tender is by invitation only,
and the list of invitees is not made public.
“An invitation to view allows a time slot of approximately
one hour in which to make bidding decisions.
“Despite this time constraint, the participants are
seasoned professionals who know the range of pink
diamond color appearances and how they relate to value.
In any given city, the site remains unknown until just
before the viewings,” they wrote.
Over the decades, approximately 1,990 diamonds have been
offered at the main Tender, of which more than 90 per cent
were pink. A smaller, private tender for selected suppliers
A ONCE-IN-A-
LIFETIME
DISCOVERY
The allure of Argyle pink
diamonds is that the
finest ones have unique
hues and saturations,
which predominate this
specific locality”
Alan Bronstein
Natural Color
Diamond Association
There were so many things
that were unprecedented
in this story, and one of
them was the size of the
deposit. At the time, it
was equivalent to all of
the other major diamond
mines combined”
Professor Stuart Kells
La Trobe University
Even though Argyle
produced virtually the
entire world’s supply
of pink diamonds, the
volumes were extremely
small; a year’s production
would fit in a single
Champagne flute”
Patrick Coppens
Rio Tinto
also takes place in March.
Reflecting on decades of Tender participation, West
tells Jeweller, “We have Tender books dating back to the
’90s. It’s amazing to see the difference in how the stones
were presented then – and the tiny prices we bid when
purchasing them!”
“We participated in the very first Tender from Argyle
and have participated in every Tender subsequent,”
says Mondial’s Neuman.
“We haven’t always been successful in our bids, but
that’s more a function of how we bid and everybody else.
We tend to purchase for stock, therefore we look very
carefully at the items we bid on.
“We want them to be uniquely special – stones with
certain characteristics that make them stand out from
even the other Tender diamonds.”
“We have Tender books dating back to the
’90s. It’s amazing to see the difference in how
the stones were presented then – and the tiny
prices we bid when purchasing them!”
SCOTT WEST
LJ West Diamonds
The announcement of the mine’s final closure date led
to a spike in demand across the board.
Maheshwari said the announcement “created hype to a
different level”: “Even during the pandemic, the prices
and demand were not affected, and they have started to
appreciate drastically since mid-2020.
“Argyle pinks have become irreplaceable, and the
increased ‘connoisseurship’ of Argyle pink diamonds
has triggered a chain reaction that has sent prices for
all categories into the clouds.”
Ronny Rosenthal, director of diamond supplier RR Diamonds,
shared similar observations: “The demand has always been
strong, but with the news of the mine’s closure, it exceeded
expectations both domestically and internationally.
38 | April 2021
April 2021 | 39

A -Timeless Legacy | ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDS
Barmakian
Jewelers
Calleija
Calleija
t h e C o l o u r e d d i A m o n d S p e C i A l i S t S - A u S t r A l i A n o W n e d A n d o p e r At e d
f A m i ly b u S i n e S S W o r k i n g W i t h A u S t r A l i A n j e W e l l e r S f o r o v e r 2 5 y e A r S .
LJ West
W e A r e h e r e t o S u p p o r t y o u r S m A l l b u S i n e S S e S - l e t u S k n o W W h At W e
C A n d o t o h e l p .
“I think collectors and jewellery lovers were the original
drivers of demand. More recently, the investor buyer has
played a role and there have been areas of the market that
catered to that.
BEAUTY,
RICH & RARE
“The product was strongly promoted by leading jewellers
both in Australia and internationally as a thing of beauty,
Earth’s treasure, the ultimate collectible, and an exclusive,
everlasting gift of love,” Glajz explains.
“However, importantly, there are also buyers that want to
take part and have a piece of this unique moment in the
history of Australian gemstones.
“There’s a lot of pride in this product.” Adds Polnauer,
“Round stone prices reached explosive heights and it is
nearly prohibitive to plan jewellery with round Argyle melee
diamonds, as they cost more than the centre stone!
“Argyle stones over one carat are also in great demand
and hardly available. We bought six stones over 1 carat
at the 2020 Tender.”
Argyle assets
“We noticed a
substantial increase
in demand in late 2019,
once Rio Tinto made the
official announcement of
the mine’s closure date
as November 2020”
John Glajz
Glajz
On the investor side, he notes, “[Argyle pink diamonds
were] also aggressively presented by several non-jeweller
companies as an ‘asset class’ and even as an alternative
investment [to more traditional investment vehicles such as
stocks and property] in order to appeal to a wider market.
Glajz adds,“One could draw a parallel with the fine art
market; there are the buyers who purchase art for the
simple love or decorative merits of the piece, and others
who purchase for the perceived potential store of value and
an eventual return on their investment.”
John Glajz, director of Singapore-based pink diamond
specialist supplier Glajz, told Jeweller, “We noticed a
substantial increase in demand in late 2019, once Rio Tinto
made the official announcement of the mine’s closure date
as November 2020.
“We had known all along that the production would cease
eventually, however the announcement put a finite ‘line in
the sand’.” He added, “Our company has participated in
Argyle Premium [March] and Signature [main] Tenders for
more than 20 years.
“We actually purchased the entire single premium tender
of 71 diamonds in April 2020, on the eve of the COVID-19
lockdowns in Singapore and Australia.
“I must say that I was temporarily concerned having made
such a level of financial commitment, as the world was
running for cover and international business suddenly
ceased to exist.
“Fortunately, this was only a temporary
phenomenon and the demand surged shortly
afterwards!”
Glajz said consumer demand in
2020 came from both jewellery
collectors and investors, and was
amplified during the pandemic.“The
demand from jewellery collectors
was impacted by the cessation of
Moussaieff international travel.
“Decades of research
go into finding the
right environment
that actually has
diamonds... To discover
pink diamonds like this
again is highly unlikely.
Many expect this is
the last generation
to experience the
privilege”
John Calleija
Calleija
“Argyle was the world’s
only reliable source of
beautiful pink diamonds
ever in history... They
are a unique Australian
gift to the world – the
apogee, pinnacle,
exemplar of their kind”
Michael Neuman
Mondial Pink
Diamond Atelier
“Collectors and jewellery lovers were the
original drivers of demand. More recently the
investor buyer has played a role and there have
been areas of the market that catered to that”
RONNY ROSENTHAL
RR Diamonds
Neuman first noted the rise in ‘investment diamond’ buying
following the Global Financial Crisis of 2008; according to
the FCRF’s analysis, pink diamond prices saw the most
dramatic increase between 2009 and 2014.
“The GFC didn’t really affect Australia as much as it
affected the rest of the world, but many people were poorly
affected in terms of investments in the stock market.
“People started to look at pink diamonds as part of the
portfolio for their self-managed super funds. Around that
time – 2008-2010 – was the first major, or boosted, period
of growth for pink diamonds prices,” Neuman says.
He adds, “We’ve seen a second wave in the last five years
as some sellers of pink diamonds have targeted the
investment angle.
“They are particularly focused on trying to highlight the
growth in the cost of pink diamonds as an indicator that
they would, perhaps, be a worthwhile alternative for people
looking to channel some of their investments away from
S u p p l i e r o f :
A r g y l e C e r t i f i e d p i n k d i A m o n d S | r i o C e r t i f i e d C h A m pA g n e d i A m o n d S | r i o C e r t i f i e d W h i t e d i A m o n d S
n At u r A l C o l o u r e d d i A m o n d S - y e l l o W , o r A n g e , g r e e n | W h i t e m e l e e | u n i q u e C o l o u r e d d i A m o n d j e W e l l e r y
40 | April 2021
» CONTINUED PAGE 44
3/105 St georgeS t C e, perth WA 6000 | 08 9481 0526 | troy@lostriverdiamonds.com | www.lostriverdiamonds.com

A Timeless Legacy | ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDS
THE QUEST FOR PINK DIAMONDS
WHERE TO NOW?
ANGOLA
BOTSWANA
LESOTHO
NAMIBIA
TANZANIA
The Pink Lulo
Mined by Lucapa at the Lulo
Mine, this 46-carat pink rough
yielded three polished diamonds,
including a 15.2-carat heartshaped
orangey-pink
Lucara Pink Diamond
Lucara’s Karowe Mine
– famous for its very large
white diamonds – produced a
4.13-carat pink rough in 2019
The Graff Lesotho Pink
Gem Diamonds discovered the
13.33-carat pink rough at the
Letšeng Mine in 2019. It was cut
by Graff into a 5.63-carat pear
Diamond Fields Pink
Canadian mining company
Diamond Fields unearthed a
5.71-carat pink marine diamond
between 2018 and 2019
The Petra Pink Diamond
A 23.16-carat pink rough was
recovered by Petra Diamonds
from the historic Williamson
Mine in 2019
BRAZIL
The famed gemstone region of
Minas Gerais has produced
several very large alluvial pinks
and a small number of vivid reds
ARCTIC
OCEAN
RUSSIA
Mining conglomerate Alrosa
has sourced high-value pinks,
such as the Spirit of the Rose,
from its Siberian mines
BRAZIL
Moussaieff Red
The world’s largest red
diamond, the Moussaieff Red,
weighs 5.11 carats and
was cut from a 13.9 carat
rough discovered in Minas
Gerais in 1989
ANGOLA, BOTSWANA,
LESOTHO, NAMIBIA
& TANZANIA
Mines have occasionally
produced diamonds
displaying a pale pink hue
RUSSIA
The Spirit of the Rose
The 14.83-carat Spirit of
the Rose was cut from the
27.85-carat Nijinsky rough,
mined in Yakutia, Siberia in 2017
PACIFIC
OCEAN
BRAZIL
Estrela do Sul
Found in 1853, the Estrela
do Sul (“Star of the South”)
weighed 254.5 carats. It was
cut into a128.48 carat cushion
and is now owned by Cartier
PACIFIC
OCEAN
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
TANZANIA
NAMIBIA
BOTSWANA
ANGOLA
LESOTHO
INDIAN
OCEAN
SOUTH AFRICA
Several of the world’s most
iconic pink diamonds, such as
the Pink Star and Pink Legacy,
were mined in South Africa
SOUTH AFRICA
Unique Pink
A private buyer purchased
this Type IIa 15.38-carat pearshaped
fancy vivid pink diamond
in 2016
SOUTH AFRICA
Leibish Pink Promise
Fancy diamond specialist
Leibish acquired the 4.96-carat
rough, mined from the KAO
Mine, in 2012 and cut it into
the 2.02-carat Pink Promise
SOUTH AFRICA
The Pink Legacy
Jewellery house Harry Winston
purchased the 18.96-carat
Pink Legacy in 2018. It was
mined in 1918 and previously
owned by the Oppenheimer
family, founders of De Beers
SOUTH AFRICA
The Pink Star
The largest fancy vivid pinkgraded
diamond in the world,
the 59.60-carat Pink Star was
cut from a 132.5 carat rough
mined in 1999
Australian Argyle
Diamonds
DIAMOND SEAL
PINK KIMBERLEY DIAMOND ORIGIN PROVIDED BY ARGYLE
To ensure the highest standard of authenticity and provenance, each Pink Kimberley
stone comes with a Diamond Seal establishing true Argyle Mine origin, complete with
Argyle Lot Number or Argyle Certificate provided by the mine. Pink Kimberley does
not rely on third-parties to establish Argyle Mine origin.
PinkKimberley.com.au
42 | April 2021
SAMS GROUP
E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199 AUSTRALIA

A TENDER GLANCE
ARGYLE’S BREATH- TAKING TREASURES
ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDS | A Timeless Legacy
Hartmanns
3.14 CARATS
2.34 CARATS
2.28 CARATS
2.24 CARATS
2.01 CARATS
2.00 CARATS
1.56 CARATS
1.21 CARATS
1.20 CARATS
1.04 CARATS
0.67 CARATS
0.33 CARATS
Argyle Alpha
Kimberley Rose
Argyle Muse
Argyle Eternity
Hidden Princess
Argyle Amour
Argyle Phoenix
Argyle Cardinal
Argyle Prima
Red Valentine
Lot 56
Mondial Red
2018 Tender
Won by Glajz
2018 Tender
Won by Leibish
2018 Tender
Won by Glajz
2020 Tender
Won by Kunming
Diamonds
2003 Tender
Won by LJ West
Diamonds
2009 Tender
Won by Glajz
2013 Tender
Won by Glajz
2014 Tender
Won by Glenn Bakker
2015 Tender
Won by Sciens
Diamond Management
2009 Tender
Won by Calleija
2018 Tender
Won by RR Diamonds
2014 Tender
Won by Mondial
Pink Diamond Atelier
the more traditional areas, given the low-yield
environment.”
Der Bedrossian noted a definite acceleration of
demand around 2010. “There was more momentum
at that point, when there was talk of closing
the mine altogether before Rio Tinto decided to
continue mining underground [in 2013].”
Today, SAMS Group sees “a healthy blend of
both” jewellery lovers and investors purchasing
pink diamonds.
“Per piece sold the demand is higher for
jewellery, but in terms of dollar value per item,
it is definitely more from the investor/collector
side,” he tells Jeweller.
Calleija puts the current demand split at 80 per
cent jewellery lovers, and 20 per cent investors.
“As they say, ‘Supply creates its own demand,’
and the rarity of Argyle diamonds has increased
significantly with the closure of the Argyle Mine.
“This has resulted in a strong increase in their
value and interest among jewellery lovers and
collectors,” he says.
Beyond Argyle
With the closure of the Argyle Mine at the end of
2020, one question remains on everyone’s lips –
where do we go from here?
The last Argyle Tender is scheduled to take
place later this year, with Coppens calling it,
“a final-in-a-lifetime event, a moment in time
to acquire the last production of the most special
diamonds produced in the last months of an
iconic mine”.
“We are excited that the Argyle mine continued to
produce these wonders of nature even during the
final days of the mine’s life, including a number of
very special diamonds,” he tells Jeweller.
“We are currently curating the final collection
of diamonds for inclusion in the 2021 Tender
and are looking forward to showcasing them to
a global audience. These are earthly treasures,
in a league of their own and bidders will not be
disappointed!” he adds.
Says Neuman, “We still have yet to see the
production from that last ore being extracted
from the mine in November last year – that hasn’t
come through to the market, but it is imminent.
“Argyle diamonds were always
considered rare and valuable, long
before the news of the mine’s impending
closure was announced. Although
Rio Tinto worked exceptionally hard
unearthing as many diamonds as
possible, demand has constantly
outpaced the supply”
LEIBISH POLNAUER
Leibish
“That will be the last of the new Argyle pink
diamond material. Once that’s done, there will be
the remaining stock that is already held by Argyle
Pink Diamonds Authorised Partners and pink
diamond stock that is not in private hands and is
ready to be sold. That will be sold over the next 12
to 24 months,” he predicts.
Glajz tells Jeweller, “I think that the general demand
will continue and gradually flatten. The recent spike
in prices has already created some consumer
resistance, but prices will most likely remain robust
as existing inventories are sold down.”
Other suppliers agree that the demand for pinks
is unlikely to abate soon, and with supplies
dropping to a tiny fraction of what they were when
Argyle was productive, prices will inevitably rise.
“The market is extremely strong at the moment, and
it’s just going to get stronger,” says Der Bedrossian.
“The prices are going to keep going up as there
are simply no more stones coming from Argyle.
“I’m sure there will be some stones arriving on
the market from investors who want to ‘cash out’,
but this is not going to be a consistent supply –
certainly not as consistent as what Argyle has
spoilt us with for the last 35-plus years!” he adds.
Meanwhile, Maheshwari explains, “A secondary
market for Argyle pinks is already in play and will
take over in the next few years – that will remain
as a significant source.
“Parallel to that, pink diamonds are being sourced
from Brazil, Russia, and various African mines.
Theoretically and historically, prices jump and
then only gradually appreciate over time.”
Adds West, “Once diamonds go into private
hands, they re-enter that market at slow rates so
we think its safe to assume the supply of Argyle
pinks held by diamond companies will continue to
decrease as time moves on and that will increase
the price people want for their remaining stones.”
Bronstein observes that the industry must
continue to support the pink diamond market.
“Much of the added-value concept for pink
diamonds has been driven by the Argyle
Tender – 35 years of publicity to heighten public
awareness. This education and promotion must be
maintained. There are already creative marketers
coming out with new ideas to capture the
untapped customers,” he says.
Russian mining conglomerate Alrosa – the world’s
largest diamond producer by volume – has
unearthed several notable pinks in recent years,
including the 14.83-carat fancy vivid purplishpink
it named ‘Spirit Of The Rose’. It was sold in
November 2020 by Sotheby’s for $US26.6 million.
Colour diamonds currently account for less than
0.1 per cent of Alrosa’s total output and most
originate from the remote Yakutia region in
Siberia, like the Spirit of the Rose.
LJ West purchased its first Yakutia pink diamond
in 2020, with Scott West telling JCK Online at the
time, “Siberia has a lower quantity [than Argyle]
but is still a somewhat consistent production…
[And] because Siberia is so big, there is the
potential to find new mines.”
In Botswana, mining company Lucara unearthed
a 4.13-carat pink at its Karowe Mine in 2019, and
recently had its mining licence renewed by the
Botswana government until 2046.
Neighbouring Lesotho has also been a source of
pink diamonds, with Gem Diamonds unearthing
two large specimens – a 14.09-carat and a
13-carat – from the Letšeng Mine in 2020.
However, West clarifies, “Pink diamonds are found
in Africa and Russia but make up less than 10 per
cent of the current world supply, which during the
peak Argyle days was still not many stones.
“African and Russian pinks are also different in
appearance, so if a person is looking for the
strong ‘raspberry’ tones Argyle is known for,
they will have to look for old Argyle stock.”
In Australia, Lucapa and GeoCrystal are part of a
handful of parties involved in Australian diamond
exploration, though no pink diamonds had been
unearthed at the time of publication.
Calleija says discovering another mine to equal
Argyle is unlikely: “Decades of research go into
finding the right environment that actually has
diamonds and then it takes many more years of
investigation to find out if the area can be mined.
“There is still a long journey ahead to
rehabilitate the site... the final chapters
of the Argyle story are yet to be written
and we will continue to be an important
part of the East Kimberley community
for many years to come”
CHRIS RICHARDS
Argyle Mine Closure Readiness
“To discover pink diamonds like this again is highly
unlikely. Many expect this is the last generation to
experience the privilege of mining pink diamonds.”
Viewing the market from a holistic perspective,
Bronstein says, “The closing of any mine, especially
one that is the major source for a particular colour,
has an effect on the future market.
While no new stones will be coming from the
mine, what has been extracted still gives many
options to those seeking a fabulous stone.”
“There is no question that the beauty and rarity
of the finest Argyle pink diamonds will always
be appreciated by traders, collectors and
connoisseurs, but where the values will settle
is impossible to predict.”
As for the Argyle Mine itself, Rio Tinto is currently
undertaking decommissioning and rehabilitation –
a project it estimates will take five years.
Chris Richards, general manager – closure
readiness at the Argyle Mine, tells Jeweller that
the company worked with traditional owners, local
communities and businesses as well as the West
Australian government to develop the closure
strategy, focusing on environmental impacts and
economic transition.
“While Argyle ceased production at the end
of 2020, there is still a long journey ahead to
rehabilitate the site,” Richards says.
“This work will provide significant economic
opportunities, with our strong commitment to
local content helping to ensure that the region
benefits, particularly the traditional owner
businesses and individuals.
“In this way, the final chapters of the Argyle story
are yet to be written and we will continue to be an
important part of the East Kimberley community
for many years to come,” he adds.
With the closure of Argyle, Australia no longer has
a single productive diamond mine.
From making Australia the largest diamond
producer in the world in the 1980s, to becoming
synonymous with the world’s rarest stones, there
is no doubt Argyle has left an indelible mark on
the local – and global – diamond landscape. Its
absence will be keenly felt, as much as its
incredible legacy is assured.
THE MASTERS OF BEAUTY
ARGYLE’S SELECT
ATELIERS
The rarest of rare diamonds deserve to
be set in the most exquisite jewellery.
Worldwide, less than 40 retailers have
earned the designation of Argyle Select
Atelier – master jewellers who capture
the beauty of the stones within iconic
designs, to be cherished forever.
AUSTRALIA
Bruce Robinson Diamonds
Calleija
Cerrone
Glenn Bakker
Hardy Brothers
J Farren Price
James Thredgold
Kimberley Fine Diamonds
Linneys
IN ALPHA ORDER
Mondial Pink Diamond Atelier
Musson
Nina’s Jewellery
Paul Bram
Rohan Jewellers
Solid Gold
The Perth Mint
NEW ZEALAND
Partridge Jewellers
Boodles
MAINLAND CHINA &
HONG KONG
Chow Tai Fook
Dawn Jewellery
I-Primo
JAPAN
Gimel
Lucie
Niwaka
Trecenti
Hartmanns
Glajz
UNITED STATES
Barmakian Jewelers
Hyde Park Jewelers
London Jewelers
Tapper’s Diamonds & Fine Jewelry
Traditional Jewelers
UK & IRELAND
Boodles
Calleija
DENMARK
Hartmanns
UAE & MIDDLE EAST
Dhamani (Dubai)
Betteridge
Jewelers
44 | April 2021

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there is a fascinating story
waiting to delight clients
around the world. Studying
with GAA brings the
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industry. Joining
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communities of gemmologists
in Australia was one of the
best decision I ever made.
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Gemmologist and Diamond Technologist
Be
Diamond
Courses
Practical Diamond Grading &
Diploma in Diamond Technology
Enrolments now open
For more information
1300 436 338
learn@gem.org.au
www.gem.org.au
Confident
COLOUR INVESTIGATION FEATURE
From candy to crimson
Jeweller explores the vivid spectrum of red, pink and
purple gemstones, from chemical quirks and crystal
lattice deviations to exotic origins and mystical tales.
Ruby
VARIETY
ETYMOLOGY
HARDNESS
REFRACTIVE INDEX
TREATMENTS
COLOURS
A QUARTERLY SPOTLIGHT ON COLOURED GEMSTONES APRIL 2021
Corundum
Latin ruber, meaning red
9
1.76 - 1.78
Fracture filling, heat, infusion,
lattice diffusion
Dark red to orange-brown,
pink and purple
COLOUR FOCUS
THIS MONTH
Reds,
Pinks &
Purples
QUICK PROFILE
8 Popular
Red, Pink
& Purple
Gemstones
54 RED CARPET
COLLECTION
Index
48
49
54
What gemstone is this?
Turn to page 49 to find out.
IN DEPTH
Dive into gem trivia
COLOUR INVESTIGATION FEATURE
From candy to crimson
RED CARPET COLLECTION
This month’s colours dazzle
Morganite
VARIETY
ETYMOLOGY
HARDNESS
REFRACTIVE INDEX
TREATMENTS
COLOURS
Beryl
Named after JP Morgan,
US financier
7.5 - 8
1.57 - 1.60
Heat, irradiation
Salmon pink to peachy-pink
Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts
and consumers about gemstones
Gem-Ed Australia
ADELAIDE BRISBANE HOBART MELBOURNE PERTH SYDNEY
Pink & Purple Sapphire
VARIETY
ETYMOLOGY
HARDNESS
REFRACTIVE INDEX
TREATMENTS
COLOURS
VARIETY
ETYMOLOGY
HARDNESS
REFRACTIVE INDEX
TREATMENTS
COLOURS
Corundum
Latin saphirus, meaning blue
9
1.76 - 1.78
Heat
Violet to pink
Red, Purple & Pink Spinel
VARIETY
ETYMOLOGY
HARDNESS
REFRACTIVE INDEX
TREATMENTS
COLOURS
Spinel
Latin spina, meaning thorn
8
1.72 - 1.92
Heat
Crimson red to lilac and rose
Pink & Imperial Topaz
Topaz
Sanskrit tapas, meaning fire
8
1.63 - 1.64
Heat
Scarlet through to pale pink
HONOURABLE
MENTIONS
• Morganite
• Red Beryl
• Red Coral
• Rose Quartz
• Kunzite
• Red Zircon
Rubellite & Pink Tourmaline
VARIETY
ETYMOLOGY
HARDNESS
REFRACTIVE INDEX
TREATMENTS
COLOURS
Amethyst
VARIETY
ETYMOLOGY
HARDNESS
REFRACTIVE INDEX
TREATMENTS
COLOURS
Red & Rhodolite Garnet
VARIETY
ETYMOLOGY
HARDNESS
REFRACTIVE INDEX
TREATMENTS
COLOURS
Tourmaline
Latin rubellus, meaning reddish
7 - 7.5
1.62 - 1.66
Fracture filling, heat, Irradiation
Dark red and pink to rose
Quartz
Greek amethystos, meaning
remedy against drunkeness
7
1.54 - 1.53
No
Reddish purple to lilac
Garnet
Latin granatus, meaning grain
6.5 - 7.5
1.72 - 1.95
No
Dark red to purplish
LEARN ABOUT THESE GEMSTONES IN DEPTH: JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM

RED, PINK & PURPLE
In Depth
RED, PINK & PURPLE
Colour Investigation
PROVENANCE SNAPSHOT
TOP 5 RED, PINK & PURPLE GEMSTONE PRODUCING COUNTRIES
ARCTIC
OCEAN
Morganite
Brazil
Madagascar
Ruby
Myanmar
Thailand
Madagascar
Sri Lanka
Garnet
RED
China
India
Madagascar
Myanmar
South Africa
Sri Lanka
Tanzania
USA
Red, Purple &
Pink Spinel
Myanmar
Sri Lanka
Tanzania
Afghanistan
RHODOLITE
Tanzania
Mozambique
Sri Lanka
Brazil
USA
PACIFIC
OCEAN
Brazil
• Amethyst
• Garnet (Rhodolite)
• Morganite
• Rubellite & Pink Tourmaline
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
Madagascar
• Garnet (Red)
• Morganite
• Pink & Purple Sapphire
• Ruby
Tanzania
• Garnet (Red & Rhodolite)
• Red, Purple & Pink Spinel
Myanmar (Burma)
• Pink & Purple Sapphire
• Red, Purple & Pink Spinel
• Ruby
Sri Lanka
INDIAN
OCEAN
• Garnet (Red & Rhodolite)
• Pink & Purple Sapphire
• Red, Purple & Pink Spinel
• Ruby
SPECIAL MENTION
Australia
Pink Diamonds
PACIFIC
OCEAN
Rubellite & Pink Tourmaline
Brazil
Uruguay
Argentina
Bolivia
Mexico
Namibia
Zambia
South Africa
Madagascar
Canada
United States
Pink & Purple Sapphire
Pink Topaz
Brazil
Pakistan
Russia
Madagascar
Sri Lanka
Myanmar
East Africa
Amethyst
Brazil
Mozambique
UNDERSTANDING COLOUR
CANDY to CRIMSON
There is
a shade
of red
for
every
woman
AUDREY
HEPBURN
Morganite was named
by Tiffany & Co.’s chief
gemmologist George Kunz
for the US financier JP
Morgan, who was an
avid gem collector
Jeweller explores the vivid spectrum of red, pink and purple gemstones,
from chemical quirks and crystal lattice deviations to exotic origins and mystical tales.
When it comes to gemstones, colour is king. Even
beyond its artistic appeal for jewellery design, colour
speaks to us on a psychological level – triggering
memories, sparking passions and soothing spirits.
One of the most attractive and emotionally provocative
colour palettes is that of red, pink and purple. The
entrancing vibrancy of these rich hues have captivated
humans for centuries across diverse cultures from all
corners of the Earth, speaking to passion, vitality, love,
and majesty.
Any discussion of the red-spectrum gemstones must
begin with that most iconic of gemstones – the ruby.
In Sanskrit, it was known as ratnaraj – “the king of
jewels”. Prized by royalty not only in ancient India but
throughout history and across the world, this deep
orange-to-purplish red form of corundum was thought
to increase vitality and wealth and bring success in love
and battle.
Colourless in its purest state, corundum (aluminium
oxide) is allochromatic, meaning it relies on trace
impurities to create the appearance of colour.
To create the deep, vivid red of a ruby, chromium is
present in the crystal lattice.
The amount of chromium present determines the
strength of the colour, while the presence of other
elements, such as iron, influence tone and hue.
49
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Colour Investigation | RED, PINK, & PURPLE
RED, PINK, & PURPLE | Colour Investigation
THE GEMSTONE TRADING
COMPANY PTY LTD
E GEMSTONE TRADING
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THE GEMSTONE TRADING
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AUSTRALIA’S PREMIER
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GEMSTONES AND
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OPALS
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L to R: Van Cleef & Arpels;
Tiffany & Co.
GEMSTONE FOCUS
BURMESE SPINEL
The similarities between spinel and corundum are present
in their formation; aluminium oxide may form corundum or
combine with magnesia to form spinel.
Garnet and beryl
Farah Khan
Another colour gemstone prized since ancient times is garnet.
While this neosilicate forms in many different colours, it is
best known for its deep red varieties; in Middle English, the
word garnet simply means “dark red”.
Pyrope and almandine garnet range from purplish to
brownish, with almandine – the most abundant member of the
garnet family – tending to be darker than pyrope. Its colour
comes from traces of iron in the crystal lattice.
Jewellery Theatre
AUSTRALIA’S PREMIER
WHOLESALE DISTRIBUTOR
OF
OF
LOOSE COLOURED
LOOSE COLOURED
GEMSTONES AND OPALS
GEMSTONES AND OPALS
call.
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meet.
Showroom meet. location:
Level 4, Suite 416, 375 George Street
Sydney Showroom / NSW location: / 2000
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Sydney / visit. NSW / 2000
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www.gemstonetradingco.com
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Burmese spinels are perhaps the most
well known in the world for their colour
and quality. Famous colours from the region
include the ruby-like pigeon’s blood –
a vivid red – and the pinkish red dubbed
‘Jedi spinel’.
Burma (Myanmar) is also known for
producing perfect octahedral spinel crystals
that are so well formed and polished, the
locals call it Nat Thwe which translates into
‘cut by the spirits’ or ‘angel cut’.
Mining in the Mogok region has been
recorded as far back as the 6th Century CE.
Mogok was kept under strict control by its
different rulers until modern times.
From 1889 to 1931, when Burma was
a British colony, mining in Mogok was
conducted by British firm Burma Ruby
Mines. Its studies showed that the highestyielding
deposits would be underneath a
settlement, which lead to the relocation of
the entire Mogok village.
In 1929, prolonged monsoon rainstorms
flooded the mine, which formed the lake in
the middle of Mogok as we see it today.
Another important – though not well-known
– source of fluorescent hot pink spinel is
in a remote mountainous area call Namya,
Nanya, or Nanyazeik, in Kachin state,
upper Burma.
Mining activities only began in the late ’90s
and production is kept minimal due to the
difficult terrain.
Source: Mays Gems & Jewellery
Meanwhile, the crystal lattice of pyrope – meaning “fieryeyed”
in ancient Greek – is concentrated with magnesium and
aluminium. It can range in colour from palest rose to scarlet,
violet and indigo.
Violet-red garnets, known as rhodolite, are a mix of pyrope and
almandine and are sometimes referred to as California ruby,
Rocky Mountain ruby, and Bohemian garnet.
High iron and manganese concentrations can produce
a particularly striking purple rhodolite, which is found
in Mozambique.
Manganese is also responsible for the pretty pink hues
of morganite, a variety of beryl (beryllium aluminium
cyclosilicate). While the colour range for morganite is wide,
moving from peach to salmon and purplish-pink, rosy
tints are prized.
As a result, heat treatments may be applied to
drive off yellow or orange undertones,
leaving a purer pink shade.
Morganite with a naturally saturated
colour is rare and valuable, and it is
Bvlgari
Van Cleef & Arpels
April 2021 | 51

E GEMSTONE TRADING
THE COMPANY GEMSTONE PTY TRADING LTD
COMPANY PTY LTD
AUSTRALIA’S PREMIER
WHOLESALE
AUSTRALIA’S
DISTRIBUTOR
PREMIER
OF
WHOLESALE DISTRIBUTOR OF
LOOSE COLOURED
LOOSE COLOURED
GEMSTONES AND OPALS
GEMSTONES AND OPALS
call.
+61 +61 (02) (02) 9299 0031
email.
email.
enquiries@gemstonetradingco.com
enquiries@gemstonetradingco.com
meet.
Showroom meet. location:
Level 4, Suite 416, 375 George Street
Showroom location:
Sydney / NSW / 2000
evel 4, Suite 416, 375 George Street
Sydney / NSW / 2000
visit.
www.gemstonetradingco.com
visit.
Instagram: gemstonetradingco
www.gemstonetradingco.com
Instagram: gemstonetradingco
dichroic, meaning it shows two distinct colours
– usually a pale pink and a darker, bluish pink –
when viewed from different directions. This factor
can make cutting for colour quite challenging.
A mixture of manganese and caesium oxide
produces a deeper scarlet hue, known simply
as red beryl. It is rarer and therefore less
commercially available than other beryl varieties.
Tourmaline and topaz
Chow Tai Fook
Alongside beryl, one of the best-known gems for
its colour variety is tourmaline; indeed, its name
comes from the Sinhalese word toramalli, which
means “gems of mixed colours”.
As in morganite, traces of manganese produce
red and pink tourmaline – though pinks can also
be created through irradiation.
Saturated red-to-pink tourmaline is known as
rubellite, and these gems are frequently tinged
with orange, purple or brown undertones.
While tourmaline is prized in its own right – and
favoured by many jewellers for its abundance
and affordability – the most expensive rubellite
imitates the saturation and intensity of ruby.
Nearly all tourmalines display pleochromism –
meaning their hue, and sometimes tone, vary
with the crystal’s orientation.
Pink tourmaline appears darker when viewed
in the direction of the optic axis (that is, parallel
to the length of the crystal), and lighter when
viewed perpendicular to the optic axis.
Another gemstone displaying this optical
phenomenon is topaz. Imperial topaz –
specifically the pink-orange variety – is the most
valuable of topaz colours.
Impurities and structural defects in the crystal
lattice produce colour in topaz. The presence
chromium results in a red or pink variety.
Brazilian reddish-brown topaz can be heat
treated and slowly cooled to form pink and
purple-red gems.
Brazil is also a rich source of amethyst, the
purple variety of quartz. Ranging from pale
lavender to vivid violet, amethyst colour is still
something of a mystery to science.
It is speculated that trace iron atoms in the
crystal lattice, combined with natural irradiation,
is responsible.
Meanwhile, rose quartz – the delicate pink
gem – is coloured by traces of titanium
oxide or manganese.
While often sold as uncut crystals
due to their cloudy and softly
translucent appearance – the result
of many tiny inclusions – highquality
rose quartz has
clearer transparency,
a deeper colour, and
can be faceted.
Premium rose
quartz is found in
Madagascar, which
is known for its
colour saturation
and asterism.
Arman Fine Jewellery
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THE STARS SHINE IN COLOUR
Gemstones in the Spotlight
The A-list have given their seal of approval to statement gems – be inspired by these colourful jewellery pieces worn on the red carpet.
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4 This necklace is part
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Cartier
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MORGANITE – Zoë Kravitz, MET Gala 2018
RUBELLITE – Rihanna, Clara & Lionel
Foundation Gala, 2014
RED CORAL – Amal Clooney, Cannes
Film Festival 2016
AMETHYST – Lily Aldridge, Bulgari
Festa 2017
55
4 From Bulgari’s Festa high
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1/2 PAGE VERTICAL
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Lorraine Schwartz
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MORGANITE, PINK SAPPHIRE & PINK
TOURMALINE – Kendall Jenner
Tiffany & Co. event, 2019
RUBY & PINK SAPPHIRE – Emily Blunt
Golden Globes 2013
RUBY – Jane Fonda Cannes Film
Festival 2015
RUBELLITE & AMETHYST – Cindy Bruna
Cannes Film Festival 2016
4 The Lola earrings from
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CREATED RUBY – Penélope Cruz,
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54 | April 2021
Harry Winston
RED SPINEL – Nicole Kidman, Academy
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Louis Vuitton
IMPERIAL TOPAZ – Florence Pugh,
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KUNZITE – Angela Bassett, Academy
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A colourful range of natural precious gemstone
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E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199

FEATURE
Pearls & Pearl Jewellery
PEARLS FEATURE | Pearls of Wisdom
Christie’s
L to R: Mikimoto, Wallace Chan
PEARLS of
WISDOM
As organic gemstones, pearls are uniquely
susceptible to variations in the natural
environment. At the same time, the
pearl trade is as vulnerable as any to disruptions
in market conditions; perhaps even more so, given
that it operates across international borders,
from often-remote oyster farms in the Asia-Pacific
region, to its chief trading hubs in Hong Kong and
Japan and final consumers in Mainland China,
Europe, and the US.
Beset by waves of disease in recent decades, alongside
climate change, the international pearl industry was
shaken again by the COVID-19 pandemic, which crippled
the supply chain.
Tim Jones, pearl wholesale manager, Atlas Pearls –
which operates South Sea pearl oyster farms throughout
Indonesia – said, “As was the case for the rest of the luxury
goods sector, the impact of COVID-19 was fairly devastating
initially when international borders closed and many
countries imposed internal lockdowns.
“To a large extent the South Sea pearl business depends
on the Hong Kong jewellery fairs, held in March, June and
September, as the principal conduit of goods through to the
world’s largest South Sea pearl market in China.
“When all three events were cancelled it made for a
difficult year, particularly between April and June.”
Brent Neale
Chow Tai Fook
Pearls, told Jeweller, “The big issue for the pearling
industry has been getting pearls from the farm to the
wholesale market.
“International trade fairs and pearl auctions were
cancelled, so larger wholesalers and manufacturers,
like Allure, have had to purchase pearls through
online auctions.
He added, “Buying pearls has always been a very tactile
process, where the pearls were examined individually
to access the lustre, shape, surface imperfections and
colour prior to purchase. With online auction purchasing,
we rely on a few photos of the lots and a 10-second
video to assess quality and value before committing to
purchase. It’s not ideal.”
Similarly, Erica Miller, director Ikecho Australia which
supplies loose pearls and finished pearl jewellery,
said that in the absence of trade fairs, her business
had been relying on “good videos and photos sent via
WhatsApp and email”.
Other challenges as a direct result of the pandemic have
included material cost increases and delivery delays.
“With the limited number of flights into Australia, we
experienced delays of FedEx parcels and noticed parcels
getting stuck in China for weeks,” she explained.
“There were also delays with factory lead-times and
the transit between Mainland China and Hong Kong,
as the borders are closed and there are very strict
policies in place.”
ARABELLA RODEN examines the tidal shifts in the pearl sector
as it confronts the unique challenges of an uncertain future
MIKIMOTO 2020 CAMPAIGN
James Brown, managing director Pearls of Australia,
added that Hong Kong – the largest pearl trading market by
volume – was already hampered by geopolitical issues even
prior to the pandemic.
“Geopolitics and the COVID-19 pandemic saw traditional
markets cease and that would have been an enormous
problem for pearl farmers who were entirely reliant on the
wholesale market,” he explained.
Lindsay Youd, managing director Allure South Sea
Yoko London
At O’Neils Affiliated, which stocks a variety of freshwater
and Akoya pearls, managing director Brendan McCreesh
said “long-established relationships with overseas
contacts” were essential to weathering the pandemic.
“They have good insights into the pearls we trade in and
can cater to our needs quite effectively without the need
to travel.
“Those factors, combined with thorough communication
throughout the sourcing process, has resulted in O’Neils
April 2021 | 57

Pearls of Wisdom | PEARLS FEATURE
Bvlgari
A & Z Pearls
Ikecho Australia
being able to maintain a regular supply of pearls,”
he explained.
However, McCreesh noted that a lack of travel had in some
cases improved the market: “We have noticed that the
inability to travel internationally, for the general public, has
increased the demand for luxury goods such as jewellery.
This has in turn increased gem trading locally.
“Our overseas counterparts, however, have reported a
significant decline in trade among the European, Asian,
and US markets.”
Pandemic trends
Locally, suppliers observed a decline in demand
during the first six months of 2020 when the most
intense lockdowns were in place, followed by a steady
improvement – a trend mimicked in Mainland China,
the world’s largest pearl market.
Locally, suppliers observed a
decline in demand during the first
six months of 2020 when the most
intense lockdowns were in place,
followed by a steady improvement
“By September, demand started to firm again,
particularly when retail opened in China and their
economy started to move again. Within Australia,
demand was similarly stymied in the first half of the
year,” said Jones.
“However by the end of the year some of our customers
were actually reporting some of their best-ever sales
results, particularly those in tourist towns such as
Broome – who benefited from the influx of domestic
tourists, many of whom would ordinarily have travelled
overseas for their holidays.”
McCreesh added that O’Neils had seen “significantly
higher trade, particularly in the lead up to Christmas.
“While the supply
chain has struggled
under the weight
of COVID-19, oyster
farms have teetered
on a knife-edge...
The financial
impacts of the
pandemic likely
tipped the balance
for many farmers.”
$US903m
value of the
international pearl
trade, 2019
Observatory of Economic
Complexity (OEC)
72%
decline in production
value of Australian
pearls, 1999–2019
Australian Bureau of
Agricultural and Resource
Economics and Sciences
(ABARES)
We believe the Australian market has been reasonably
well protected due to Australia’s response and
management of COVID-19.”
All suppliers noted an increased demand for classic white,
round pearls alongside continued enthusiasm for baroques.
“Many designers are now requesting the more organic
shapes provided by baroque pearls and keshi,”
noted Jones.
He added, “Social media is becoming such an
important forum for influencing fashion trends now,
so it’s particularly pleasing to see a growing array of
personalities, from US Vice President Kamala Harris
to the Duchess of Cambridge and singer Harry Styles
wearing pearls.”
At O’Neills, McCreesh observed, “There has recently
been an increased demand for the traditional white
coloured pearl and our freshwater white baroque
pearls have been in high demand.
“We are currently processing our latest batch
after completely selling out of our baroque stock
over summer.”
At Allure, “white pearl strand bracelets have become
very popular along with the classic designs with larger
12mm-plus pearls, and yellow gold seems to be making
a comeback particularly in our High Jewellery collections,”
says Youd.
Larger pearls were also in demand at Ikecho Australia,
with Miller noting increased sales of Edison pearls –
freshwater pearls that can grow to particularly large sizes
due to a special nucleation technique, and display an
attractive, intense metallic lustre.
“Due to the larger size and lower price, Edison pearls are
great for those buyers that can’t afford South Sea pearls.
Baroque and nucleated pearls are also still very strong,”
Miller told Jeweller.
Yet while the Australian market remained relatively
insulated from the impact of the pandemic, revenue in
58 | April 2021

Pearls of Wisdom | PEARL FEATURE
World’s Top 5
Pearl
Exporters
Between 2018 and 2019,
the value of pearl exports
worldwide decreased by
26 per cent, from $US1.22
billion to $US903 million.
In 2019, Australia was the
top net exporter of pearls
in US dollars.
Japan
$287m
BUILDING KNOWLEDGE
PEARL EDUCATION
From a gemmological perspective, pearls are unlike every
other type of gemstone. Understanding the complexity
of pearl formation, the many sources of pearls, and the
terminology and nomenclature is critical for jewellers
who wish to embrace this beautiful and unique category.
The Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA)
incorporates pearls into its Diploma in Gemmology
curriculum, which is updated regularly to reflect new
scientific studies as well as broader industry trends.
Jewellery
Theatre
Katherine Kovacs, federal chair GAA, tells Jeweller, “The GAA
undertakes a regular review of all our curriculum notes for our
national courses and our motivation for that is to continue to be at
the forefront of gemmological education – not just in Australia,
but worldwide.”
L to R: Van Cleef & Arpels, Jewellery
Theatre, Allure South Sea Pearls
Australia
$146m
She adds, “The pearl notes have undergone a major overhaul to
reflect current industry conditions and CIBJO nomenclature,
though it is a scientific course. We cover every type of pearl, from
abalone to South Sea, Akoya, freshwater, keshi, and beyond.”
other pearling regions was decimated as the major
consumer market – tourists – dried up.
Professor Paul Southgate, professor of tropical
aquaculture at the University of the Sunshine Coast in
Queensland, told Jeweller, “COVID-19 has obviously
devastated domestic pearl sales in Fiji and the Pacific
because this market relies on international travellers.
Indonesia
$109m
French Polynesia
$88.9m
(Pinctada fucata) pearl farm at Broken Bay in NSW. He
tells Jeweller that the financial impacts of the pandemic
likely tipped the balance for many farmers.
“I suspect a lot of farms have ceased production in
the past year, so there would be less pearls coming
into the market in the next two to three years because
companies have stopped operating due to cashflow,”
Brown explains.
George Villiers, first Duke of Buckingham, with his multiple strands of pearls,
painted by Dutch artist Michiel Jansz. van Miereveld in 1626. Source: Art Gallery of
South Australia, HIP /Art Resource | Inset: Allure South Sea Pearls ring
In February, CIBJO – the World Jewellery Confederation – released an
illustrated Guide for Classifying Natural Pearls and Cultured Pearls.
The free, downloadable document is intended as a reference for
both consumers and the jewellery trade, and was partially written in
conjunction with Australia’s Paspaley.
“COVID-19 has obviously devastated domestic
pearl sales in Fiji and the Pacific because this
market relies on international travellers.
Recovery will be a major challenge for the
sector, and some of this will be tied to recovery
of regional tourism”
PROFESSOR PAUL SOUTHGATE
University of the Sunshine Coast
China
$62.2m
Observatory of Economic
Complexity (OEC) trade data
analysis 2018-19
Chow Tai Fook
“Or, they had a limited production because they
couldn’t move their skilled teams – for example, pearl
technicians – across country borders due to COVID-19
travel restrictions.
“Pearl farms go economically extinct well and truly
before they go ecologically extinct,” he adds.
Youd also pointed to “managing staff movements” and
ensuring the workforce stays “COVID-free” as a major
challenge for farms in the past 12 months – even if
oyster stocks remained healthy.
“Recovery will be a major challenge for the sector, and
some of this will be tied to recovery of regional tourism.”
Youd is hopeful that the next 12 months will see both the
lifting of travel restrictions and the return of jewellery
fairs in order to ease the pressure on the supply chain.
Jones predicts international travel will be “problematic
for at least the rest of 2021 and probably well into
2022”; as a result of the pandemic, Atlas Pearls
has developed an online platform that has seen
“encouraging early results”.
Miller also foresees ongoing challenges, saying, “I
think it will remain like this for a while longer – doing
business during this time is very different, and it’s
something we have to get used to.”
Farm impacts
While the supply chain has struggled under the weight of
COVID-19, oyster farms have teetered on a knife-edge.
Brown’s business operates the Cygnet Bay South Sea
pearl farm in Western Australia and an Australian Akoya
Even without the pressures of the pandemic on farmers,
it is estimated that just 20 per cent of nucleated oysters
produce salable material, and 5 per cent produce
gemstone-quality pearls.
Disease and disaster
Health is the primary concern for any oyster farm.
Researchers from the University of the Sunshine Coast
(USC) and the South China Sea Fisheries Research
Institute (SCSFRI), including Prof Southgate, noted in
a 2019 report: “Striving for increased production has
resulted in over-stocking of pearl farms leading to a
shortage of nutrients and ecological deterioration at
the farm site that increases the probability of epidemic
disease outbreaks.”
In recent decades, disease has ravaged the Australian
pearling industry – almost entirely saltwater South
Sea pearl farms in Western Australia – reducing it to a
fraction of its former size.
According to the Australian Bureau of Agricultural
and Resource Economics and Sciences (ABARES) –
part of the federal Department of Agriculture, Water
60 | April 2021

Pearls of Wisdom | PEARLS FEATURE
CHART 1: AUSTRALIAN PEARL PRODUCTION VALUE
Source: Australian Bureau of Agricultural and Resource Economics and Sciences, Jeweller analysis. Note: Production value is the assessed value at the point of landing for the quantity
produced and excludes transport and marketing costs. Values are approximate and at times exclude Northern Terriitory production where data was confidential or unreported. ‘
Note: X’ denotes that no data was available.
PRODUCTION Number of Diamonds VALUE Tendered
IN $ MILLIONS
121.6
172
189.6 190.5
182.6
150.5
175.1
150
122.3 122 122 123.7
114.3
90
102.3
79.1
60.7
68
78.4
70.3
52.6
Above: Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, Western Australia
L to R: Allure South Sea Pearls, Lugano, Paspaley
and the Environment – the export value of Australia’s
pearl oyster production was $56 million in the 2018-19
financial year, compared with $241 million in 2010-11.
In addition, the value of Australia’s pearl production – a
separate metric from export value – has declined 72
per cent since its peak of $190.5 million in the 1999-00
financial year, according to ABARES figures.
Even in 2005-06, production was valued at $122 million; yet
by 2017-18, this had more than halved, to just $52.6 million.
“More research will be critical to understand
the fate of all these species and whether or
not we will be able to produce pearls [in the
future] with the same quality as today”
DR LAURA OTTER
Australian National University
According to research by Queensland’s James Cook
University, in 2010, “Pearl farming was one of the major
employers and contributors to the social-economic fabric
of northern Australia, contributing $189.7 million [at
the] farm-gate to the national economy and generating
another $200 million in tourism-related activities.
“However, in recent years Australian pearl production
has been severely impacted by episodic and large-scale
mortality events by an as yet unidentified causative factor.”
This factor impacts juvenile oysters in the first months of
growth, with a mortality rate of more than 90 per cent.
Pearls were already rare compared
to other gemstones – particularly
diamonds – and they are getting
rarer. That’s a selling point that
perhaps hasn’t been emphasised or
communicated as much as it could
be by the industry.”
James Brown
Pearls of Australia
Due to the larger size and lower
price, Edison pearls are great for
those buyers that can’t afford South
Sea pearls. Baroque and nucleated
pearls are also still very strong.”
Erica Miller
Ikecho Australia
There has recently been an
increased demand for the traditional
white coloured pearl and our
freshwater white baroque pearls
have been in high demand. We are
currently processing our latest
batch after completely selling out
of our baroque stock over summer.”
Brendan McCreesh
O’Neils Affiliated
“These mortality events, termed juvenile pearl oyster
mortality syndrome (JPOMS), have resulted in massive
write-downs in production and economic value of the
industry and led to uncertainty within the future of the
industry.”
The university is currently accepting applicants to
study the role of “toxin genes” in JPOMS, testing a
hypothesis that normal bacteria could cause these
oyster ‘pandemics’ when these genes are activated.
Brown, a qualified marine biologist, explains that
oyster farms have attempted to address this challenge
by establishing breeding programs that select for
health-based traits.
“We operate hatcheries and breed pearl oysters
with a team of academics crunching the genetics
and heritability.
“Oysters do have an immune system and they evolve
over time; there are family lines that are more resilient,
grow more vigorously, and aren’t as susceptible to
these issues; these oysters are then fed back into the
breeding program.
“Over a few generations you can drastically increase
the productivity of your pearl oysters,” he says.
Further impacting the pearl oyster industry – not only
in Australia, but on a global scale – are environmental
factors.
“There is greater variability in production, given climate
change issues such as sea surface temperature and
subsequent changes in phytoplankton (food) or micro-
biome community (health).
“Even introduced pests, or habitat loss are all regular
occurrences these days,” explains Brown. “Anything that
causes variation away from a very stable environment
where pearl oysters thrive makes the economics
incredibly difficult for pearl farming.”
Dr Laura Otter is a postdoctoral fellow at the Research
School of Earth Sciences at the Australian National
University, specialising in bivalve growth and research.
She tells Jeweller, “We have just started to learn how
ocean acidification and global warming impacts marine
calcifiers like bivalves, pearl-oysters, and gastropods –
we glimpsed the tip of the iceberg, so to speak.
“A lot more research is needed to grasp the whole
picture and where we stand. Put simply, global warming
is caused by an increase in CO 2
– and a portion of this
greenhouse gas is also taken up by our oceans.
“While it might firstly appear like a good thing to have
such a powerful greenhouse gas ‘sink’ to help buffer
our atmospheric increase, increasing CO 2
in the ocean
comes at the cost of a lower pH,” she explains.
“This reduction in pH throws all those little organisms
of balance that require a normal pH to build their
skeletons, shells – and pearls.”
Dr Otter says the pH change has ‘acidified’ from 8.25 to 8.14
– a seemingly small change that nevertheless has a dramatic
impact on marine animals, including pearl oysters.
“Nacre-building bivalves [such as pearl oysters] that are
exposed to ocean acidification have trouble maintaining
crystallographic control during shell formation.
“We know that this leads to differences in shell shape
The [GAA] pearl notes have
undergone a major overhaul to
reflect current industry conditions
and CIBJO nomenclature, though
it is a scientific course. We cover
every type of pearl, from abalone
to South Sea, Akoya, freshwater,
keshi, and beyond.”
Katherine Kovacs
Gemmological
Association of Australia
For the more traditional pearl
markets such as Europe, the US
and Australia, there is definitely
a growing demand among retail
consumers for pearls whose
provenance can be traced.”
Tim Jones
Atlas Pearls
Sustainability is extremely important
for the pearl industry as a whole
– traceability and provenance are
irrelevant if you haven’t got a viable
pearling industry.”
Lindsay Youd
Allure South Sea Pearls
and thickness changes and in consequence
to mechanically weaker shells that do not well
withstand predation [attacks from predators].
“Of all the different layers in a shell, the one
bearing nacre seems to be the most vulnerable.”
She also notes the secondary problem of food sources
for the oysters: “Some plankton species may not ‘agree’
to the changes in acidification and temperature and they
are important food sources for pearl-oysters.
“All these factors influence each other and form new
synergies - more research will be critical to understand
the fate of all these species and whether or not we will
be able to produce pearls with the same quality as today
[in the future].”
Dr Otter believes that breeding programs focusing
on pearl oysters that can “cope better with the problems
of acidification and warming” may offer a partial solution,
alongside a global focus on overall atmospheric
CO 2
mitigation and sequestration – also known as
“carbon capture”.
Solutions and evolution
According to the USC and SCSFRI’s research, global pearl
production has fallen by 60 per cent since 2009, though
pearl farms are now present in more than 30 countries.
In Japan, Akoya production peaked in 1966 with 127 tonnes
produced, falling “to an average of 20–25 tonnes per year in
the mid-2010s. In 2019, a mass die-off of 20 million Akoya
pearl oysters around Ehime – the centre of Japanese pearl
production – occurred, leaving stocks approximately 70 per
cent lower than average.
EXPLORE PEARL TYPES
PERFECT
PALETTE
OF PEARLS
Source: CIBJO
South Sea
Grown in golden or silver-lipped Pinctada
maxima – the largest and rarest of pearl
oysters – one South Sea pearl takes two
to three years to develop and can range
in size 9mm–16mm. They are cultivated
in Australia, the Philippines, Myanmar
(Burma), Vietnam and Indonesia.
Akoya
Once grown only in Japan – where the
Akoya culturing technique was developed
in 1906 – Akoya pearls are now also
cultivated in China and Vietnam. The pearls
grow in the Pinctada fucata or Pinctada
fucata martensii and usually measure
2mm–9mm, with a specific lustre.
Tahitian
The world’s most iconic black pearls
grow inside black-lipped Pinctada
margaritifera cummingi oysters in
French Polynesia, and are known
as Tahitian pearls. Peacock, cherry,
aubergine, and red overtones can be
found. The pearls usually measure
4mm–15mm, and rarely up to 20mm.
Freshwater
More than 98 per cent of the world’s
freshwater pearls are grown in China.
These pearls are cultivated 30–50 per
shell inside mussels, rather than oysters,
with a wide variety of sizes and shapes.
Species include Cristaria plicata, Hyriopsis
cummingi and Hyriopsis schlegelii.
Baroque
Irregularly shaped pearls – that is, pearls that
have an asymmetric, ‘organic’ shape, rather
than a symmetrical round profile – are known
as ‘baroque’. This occurs due to uneven nacre
distribution as the pearl grows. Most species
of pearl oysters and mussels can produce
baroques.
Keshi
Meaning ‘poppy seed’ in Japanese, the term
‘keshi’ was originally applied to the small,
irregular seed pearls produced as a byproduct
of the Akoya process. Today, the term is used
more broadly for ‘unintentionally’ produced
pearls. Keshi pearls range from less than
1mm up to 16mm.
Mabé
Also known as ‘blister pearls’, mabé are
pearls that have perforated the mantle of the
mollusc and adhered to the inner wall of the
shell. Mabé can be cultivated by attaching
a mother-of-pearl nucleus to the shell wall
and leaving nacre to accumulate for two to
three years.
Conch
Pearls harvested from the Queen conch,
Strombus gigas, are known as conch pearls.
As non-nacreous pearls, conch pearls lack
iridescence. Instead, they have a ‘creamy’ or
‘porcelain’-like finish and display pretty pastel
hues. They are rare and almost always natural.
62 | April 2021 April 2021 | 63

Pearls of Wisdom | PEARLS FEATURE
CHART 2: AUSTRALIAN PEARLS HISTORIC EXPORT
VALUE & FORECAST
Source: Australian Bureau of Agricultural and Resource Economics
and Sciences, ‘Fisheries and aquaculture outlook 2021’
Pearl EXPORT Export Value VALUE in IN $ millions $ MILLIONS
56
45
46
41
43
44
45
46
And while exact figures are difficult to source, freshwater
pearl production has reportedly been curtailed in
China due to rapid industrialisation, over-farming, and
natural disasters.
Says Brown, “Pearls were already rare compared to
other gemstones – particularly diamonds – and they
are getting rarer. “That’s a selling point that perhaps
hasn’t been emphasised or communicated as much as
it could be by the industry.”
Brown believes this scarcity – alongside the disruptions to
the supply chain and consumer demand for sustainability
and traceability – will contribute to an evolution of the pearl
trade toward new business models.
For some consumers,
sustainability and provenance
are becoming more
important – though the
pearl industry noticeably
lags other categories,
including diamonds and
colour gemstones.
For some consumers, sustainability and provenance
are becoming more important – though the pearl
industry noticeably lags other categories, including
diamonds and colour gemstones.
Youd says, “Sustainability is extremely important
for the pearl industry as a whole – traceability and
provenance are irrelevant if you haven’t got a viable
pearling industry.”
He adds, “At Allure we specialise in South Sea
pearls and don’t carry Akoya or freshwater pearls.
We feel very comfortable in the provenance of the
pearls we sell due to our sourcing direct from pearl
farms in Australia, the Philippines and Tahiti.
Mikimoto
Tiffany & Co.
“We do also use a small quantity of Indonesian South
Sea pearls in smaller 8 and 9mm sizes which are
generally not economical to produce in Australia. The
quality of the pearl should be the most important factor
when purchasing.”
Atlas Pearls’ Jones notes, “For the more traditional
pearl markets such as Europe, the US and Australia,
there is definitely a growing demand among retail
consumers for pearls whose provenance can be traced
and particularly for those that have been cultured in a
sustainable and environmentally friendly fashion.
“Atlas Pearls provides certification to this effect and
as a guarantee that the pearls have not been treated
in any way.”
However, he clarifies, “In China, the world’s largest
market for South Sea pearls, traceability and
provenance are still relatively unimportant factors
compared to the physical attributes of the pearl itself –
its size, shape, colour, complexion and lustre.”
Unlike diamonds, pearls are not routinely certified by
bodies such as the Gemological Institute of America
(GIA) and the category also lacks secure chain-ofcustody
measures or accessible and affordable
technology to ensure traceability.
Instead, trusted suppliers and long-term
relationships are critical to directly sourcing
high-quality product.
McCreesh observes, “O’Neils predominantly trades in Akoya
and freshwater pearls that are sourced from reputable
counterparts from well-known growing locations.
“We find that there is less importance placed on
provenance of these varieties of pearls and a higher
importance placed on the quality of the pearls.”
More than 98 per cent of the world’s freshwater pearls
are grown in China, while Japan is the leading supplier
of Akoya pearls. Akoya are routinely treated with the
maeshori process (“before treatment”) to improve lustre
by tightening the spaces between the nacre platelets.
Maeshori can vary between soaking in hydrogen peroxide
and/or methyl, alcohol mineral salts and ammonia, and
heating and chemical treatments. Bleaching is also
common, which improves colour by removing unwanted yellow tones.
These treatments can impact the longevity of the pearls by
making them more brittle.
Akoya pearls are grown in limited numbers in Australia at Pearls of
Australia’s Broken Bay farm, where they do not undergo maeshori
or bleaching but instead display high-quality lustre and natural
colours due to longer growth cycles.
However, Brown says that this type of Akoya farming will likely
never be economically viable on a global scale: “I believe it’s
a boutique product, but I also believe that in the future there
will be a tipping point for international consumers who will
be willing to pay more for Australian Akoya that is as nature
intended, with the highest quality and longevity you can get.”
Yet with supplies constrained by the
above factors, there is potential for
jewellers to communicate not only the
beauty of the pearl to consumers, but
also its increasing rarity – perhaps the
most important quality of a gemstone.
Still, Brown notes that eco-minded consumers should also be made
aware of the restorative nature of pearl oyster farming.
Species such as Pinctada maxima – which produce South Sea
pearls – and other oysters are “an ultra-sensitive bio indicator of the
marine environment”, as well as filtering algae and trace elements.
“As a whole, saltwater pearl farming – by its very nature –
creates a field of influence around that marine area or zone that
does a range of positive things: keeps the water clean, helps
maintain or even improve bio-diversity, and pushes back against
any activity which might damage the environment,” Brown says.
While some analysts predict the pearl jewellery market will
expand by 13 per cent annually until 2025, it is likely that
demand for this unique product will not abate.
Yet with supplies constrained by the factors explored above,
there is potential for jewellers to communicate not only the
beauty of the pearl to consumers, but also its increasing rarity –
perhaps the most important quality of a gemstone.
64 | April 2021

BUSINESS
Strategy
Business Strategy
Once upon a time, ‘content marketing’
was all about stuffing as many keywords
as possible into a blog post and crossing
your fingers the page would rank well on
search engines.
Today, it’s a lot more complex than that
– but there are also far more
opportunities to maximise great content
on your business’ website.
The new version of content marketing
is all about establishing a connection
with, and delivering value to, readers.
It’s no longer a direct sales pitch, nor is
it an article full of keywords that don’t fit
the story.
In 2018, digital campaign manager
Teagan West wrote an article for
technology website Scrunch.com,
explaining why content was king at
that time.
Today, many of West’s principles still
hold true, so let’s take a deeper look into
the reasons why content is still king,
and how you can leverage your content
marketing strategy.
Why content is – still – king when it
comes to marketing your business
Content has always been important in digital marketing, but the landscape has now shifted,
writes SIMON DELL, who advises business owners to focus on new ways of communicating online.
What is content marketing?
Content marketing is a broad term referring
to how online content – in any form – can be
used to reach and connect with a business’
potential customers.
In the past two years, the scope of content
marketing has increased drastically. Today,
it comprises:
• Social media posts
• Blog articles
• Landing pages
• Videos
• Email
• eBooks
• Podcasts
• Webinars
This list isn’t exhaustive, of course, but
it shows how far content marketing has
come from the days when it was all about
blogging and social media. If that sounds
like a lot of work, you are right – it is.
However, there are ways to make content
marketing more efficient.
For example, an informational video on
a single topic can easily be turned into
a blog post, emailed to subscribers, or
Content
marketing
isn’t about
converting
every single
visit to the
website into a
sale; it’s about
capturing the
right kind of
traffic that
positions a
business to
increase sales
shared to social media.
One piece of engaging content can be
re-used or redeveloped across various
digital marketing channels in order to
reach more potential customers.
The role of SEO
Written content – particularly blogging
– has always been about search-engine
optimisation (SEO).
Pages with ‘good’ SEO rank higher on
Google and are therefore more likely to be
seen and clicked on by customers.
In the past, the standard practice for
business owners was to fill every post with
keywords relating to your business, so
that you would rank more highly whenever
someone searched for that keyword.
For example, if you owned the business
XYZ Plumbers, based in Sydney, you would
continuously use the keyword ‘Sydney
plumbers’. However, Google’s secretive SEO
algorithms now make it much more difficult
to rank highly using this method – and
reward those who take a more considered,
informative approach.
In fact, a single well-written piece of content
on your website’s blog has the effect of
boosting your entire website’s SEO, giving
you the chance to appear in more searches.
So, how can business owners improve their
posts using SEO best practices?
Here are some easy-to-follow steps:
Structure – Ensure your posts are
structured for the way people will read
them, using headings and paragraphs
Relevancy – Written and visual content
should be pertinent to the business and
related fields of interest, rather than trying
to cover a variety of topics
Links – Include links to other pages on the
website (known as internal links)
Images – Add descriptions for your images
and include alt tags with your keywords
URLs – Make the URL of your pages
short and relevant
There is so much more that goes into
making content SEO-friendly, but what
is most important is for business owners
to write for humans, not search engines;
above all, content should be useful, relevant,
and make sense to readers.
Directing traffic
Content exists to draw potential
customers to your website and engage
with your business.
SEO directs traffic to your site from
searches; again, using the plumber
example, the owner of XYZ Plumbers
has written a great blog about how to
fix leaking taps, so people searching for
advice on fixing leaking taps are directed
to that blog post.
While they may simply use the article
to fix their taps, they might also decide
to have and call XYZ Plumbers for
assistance.
It’s important to remember that content
marketing isn’t about converting every
single visit to the website into a sale; it’s
about capturing the right kind of traffic that
positions a business to increase sales.
If a business can keep users on the
site longer by providing plenty of useful
content, the chance of making a sale
increases. Websites with very little content
often experience high bounce rates – that
is, visitors leaving the site quickly.
Another way to improve sales is to include
an attractive call-to-action in the form of
‘Contact’ forms or other one-click contact
methods on each piece of content.
This makes it easy for customers to get
in touch.
Engage the audience
Another goal of content marketing is to
promote engagement with followers or
customers and one of the simplest ways
to do so is through social media.
Whether a link to a blog, an infographic,
a video, or an image advertising a sale, if
your content is engaging enough, people
will take notice and interact with the post
by making a comment, liking or even
sharing it.
Customers like to feel connected to
a brand, which is why content is so
important to keep people engaged.
Social media influencers have turned
this into a viable business model,
carefully strategising their posts to
maximise engagement, which they
can then monetise later through product
endorsements.
Again, not every post needs to result in
a sale; if the post increases the audience
for the business, that is also positive
because it increases the number of
potential customers who will be exposed
to the business on a regular basis.
There are several simple ways to increase
engagement on posts, from replying
to social media comments and thanking
followers for sharing, to using polls
and quizzes.
Conversely, bombarding followers with
sales pitches often leads to reduced
engagement – and in some cases it can
also turn people away for good.
Businesses can use the built-in analytics
on social media apps to determine which
content generates the most engagement.
MAKE IT
COUNT
Real and
relevant
Ensure your
content relates
to your industry
and audience
Going beyond
SEO
While SEO
brings users
to the site,
attractive
content keeps
them there
Re-use, repost,
and
recycle
Redevelop
engaging pieces
of content
for different
channels
Adding business value
Ideally, content should establish the
business as an authority in the market,
without directly promoting products
or services; the business becomes a ‘trusted
advisor’ to its followers, which in turn makes
sales conversion easier.
Content can also add value to existing
products and services; for example, ‘how to’
articles, checklists, webinars, instructional
videos and step-by-step guides.
They’re purely informational, with no sales
message attached, so they may not result in
direct sales.
However, they do help to establish a
connection between a business and
its potential customers, building trust.
Essentially, this value-adding content
aims to solve problems for people in their
everyday lives.
Content with purpose
In theory, everybody has the ability to
create great content. In practice though,
it takes some marketing knowledge to
make content work.
A business owner could write a very
informative blog post that customers
would love to read – but if it is not SEOfriendly,
it won’t rank highly enough on
search engines and therefore won’t be
found. If the business owner doesn’t share
the post on social media, they are again
missing out on another audience again.
Furthermore, if the blog post doesn’t link
into any products and services on the
website, it’s unlikely to generate any sales.
Ultimately, content marketing isn’t just
about producing great content – it is
about utilising strategy to drive traffic
to the website, increase followers, and
ultimately attract more leads that can be
converted into sales.
SIMON DELL is co-founder and CEO
of Cemoh, a Brisbane-based firm that
provides marketing staff on demand. He
specialises in digital marketing and brand
management. Visit: cemoh.com
66 | April 2021
April 2021 | 67

BUSINESS
Selling
BUSINESS
Management
Is the price really right? Consider these
seven key factors when setting your prices
Many retailers default to the ‘cost-plus’ pricing strategy – but it’s not the only way to determine
what you can charge for your stock, explains DAVID BROWN.
Mastering the art of persuasive communication
Being able to understand, convince, and influence others is an essential skill – both for improving sales
and managing a workplace, writes RYAN ESTIS.
When introducing a new product or
collection to your range, the first
question is always, ‘What price can
I sell it for?’ In many ways, this is the
$64,000 question – or $6,400, or $640,
depending on the product.
Getting it right can generate healthy
profits for a business, while getting it
wrong can see that same profitable
product languish on the shelves, gathering
dust and tying up staff time and financial
resources in the process.
So, how do you know how much an item
should be sold for?
Setting the starting price involves
considering a number of variables:
• Cost – The first variable, and the one
that the majority of retailers rely on most
heavily, is the cost of the item when it is
purchased from the supplier.
This is a key factor as it will ultimately
determine the profit that can be made.
Yet there’s an important consideration
that many retailers ignore, and that is the
pricing strategy of the supplier.
In most cases, the supplier is never
questioned as to how they reached their
price and, like everyone, the person who
set that price is as susceptible to the same
biases, emotions, and assumptions as
anyone when reaching the wholesale price.
If you want to rely entirely on someone
else to price your products, it helps to
know from where they’ve drawn their
conclusions.
• Profit – In conjunction with cost is profit.
As mentioned previously, pricing must
reflect the margin you hope to make on the
product.
But more importantly, it should also
be compared with the opportunity
cost of investing your money into an
alternative product.
If you only have so much to spend, you need
to consider if this product will provide you
with the best return on your investment.
Too high, too low, or just right – it’s time to assess your product pricing.
• Market position – Are you a premium
business? What target market are you
seeking to sell your products to?
For many customers, the cheapest price
is not the deciding factor in whether or not
they purchase. In fact, for some, the more
they pay the better they feel!
That is because pricing is part of what
determines a product’s perceived value – a
factor that is especially important in luxury
categories, such as jewellery.
On the other hand, there are customers
who only make purchases based on price.
They are usually fickle and will wait for
sales before they purchase – making them
low-value targets for businesses.
• Competitors – Are your competitors
selling the same product? If so, what
pricing do they have? It’s easy to assume
retailers should always price-match, but
this may depend on the market.
Recently, I went for a walk around a rural
area where three separate properties were
selling horse manure from their front gate
– one was selling $1 per bag, another for
$2.50, and the last for $3.
Despite the fact they were all within a few
hundred metres of each other, when I went
on the same walk a day later, I noticed that
they all appeared to have a similar number
of bags sold.
The biggest
barrier to
business owners
setting the
correct price
is their own
mindset. In
many cases,
items are set
lower than
they could be
because of
assumptions
and
expectations
Clearly, price wasn’t the only factor
affecting the buying decision – and the last
property made $2 more per bag of manure
than the first!
• Added value – The product is not the only
thing you’re providing.
What do you offer that makes for a stronger
value proposition?
An extended warranty, the promise of free
servicing or batteries, cleaning, gift-withpurchase,
gift-wrapping, delivery – all of
these, among other factors, can justify a
premium price.
Online sellers who offer a product along
with education on how to use it best, are a
great example of this.
• Your mindset – In my experience, the
biggest barrier to business owners setting
the correct price is their own mindset.
In many cases, items are set lower than
they could be because of assumptions and
expectations the owner held.
The business owner put up barriers
that aren’t necessary. Often the most
successful pricing strategies are the ones
set by other people who don’t have an
emotional ‘buy-in’ to the decision.
• Opinion of staff – One of the most
effective ways of pricing is to ask someone
who has no knowledge of the cost of the
item to tell you what they think it is worth.
Again, this has often led to higher pricing
policies than a ‘cost-plus’ mentality,
especially where the staff are involved and
don’t know the inputs. At the end of the day,
they are the ones who will be selling it!
Pricing is crucial to making your business
work and keeping up the all-important
cashflow. Review your current strategy and
use the steps above to assess whether you
could be selling yourself short.
DAVID BROWN is co-founder
and business mentor with
Retail Edge Consultants. Visit:
retailedgeconsultants.com
How much time do you spend every week
presenting new ideas, motivating your
staff, or winning over new customers?
We spend an increasingly significant
portion of our workday drawing on our
persuasive communications skills to build
relationships, earn trust, and accomplish
shared objectives.
Your ability to communicate effectively, and
influence directly, affects your success.
Here are five ideas that will help
you develop your persuasive
communication skills.
Abandon negative stereotypes
When people think about sales, they
often recall a bad buying experience –
usually an overly eager or aggressive
sales representative.
We can also associate sales with
‘manipulating’ people into making
decisions they’re not comfortable with
when, in fact, professional selling is all
about understanding another person’s
needs and helping them solve problems
or seize beneficial opportunities.
If you believe in what you’re doing and that
what you’re doing is right, you’re not just
selling – you’re being helpful.
When you start thinking about sales as
a collaborative, problem-solving effort,
you expand your perspective and advance
your relationships.
Meanwhile, when it comes to improving
your team’s performance, influence is
critical. No matter your function within an
organisation, the ability to communicate
your ideas in a compelling way that
resonates and helps challenge people’s
assumptions is valuable.
Without persuasive communication, you
can’t lead effectively.
Focus on being helpful
When your goal is to convince or persuade
someone, don’t focus on what you want
them to do – instead, focus on how you can
be helpful to them.
Both sales and leadership rely on ‘soft skills’ of persuasive communication.
I call this the ‘service mentality’. Think
about the other person’s goals and
objectives and how you can assist in
achieving them.
When trying to understand where
someone else is coming from, seek first to
understand, and then to be understood.
Leaders are active listeners, while the best
salespeople are both helpers and teachers.
They’re trustworthy, likable, collaborative
and curious, and make an effort to uncover
and articulate someone’s problem and
demonstrate their solution.
Provide context
Context closes sales. For example,
if you were an employee presenting
a new concept to a manager, you would
come prepared with a detailed business
case, research, projected return-oninvestment,
and any additional insights to
convince them to sign off on the idea.
The point is that ideas need context
to be relevant. Providing context to
your ideas means being credible, wellresearched,
and able to produce examples
that will convince others to jump on board.
Overcome resistance
In any exchange of information, you should
prepare to meet with resistance – I’m
talking about that dreaded ‘no’.
Your natural
reaction may
be to give up
or shut down,
but so often,
resistance
can be an
opportunity
to move the
exchange to the
next level of
engagement
Your natural reaction may be to give up or
shut down, but so often, resistance can be
an opportunity to move the exchange to the
next level of engagement.
Understanding concerns, objections and
barriers is critical to making progress.
Great sellers view resistance as an
opportunity to learn, understand and
advance the dialogue.
Prepare to meet the resistance when
challenging the status quo; think through
what you expect the resistance to be and
how you will respond when it occurs.
That level of preparation may just provide
you with the level of confidence and
conviction to help evolve the perspective.
However, it’s also important to recognise
that once a decision has been made, even if
it isn’t in your favour, you should still move
forward.
Change is a process, not an event, and
having the ability to disagree and commit is
critical to getting things done.
Ask open-ended questions
Asking good questions is one of the most
important ways to communicate more
successfully. It’s possible to skilfully guide
a conversation by asking the right ones;
you can open up possibilities by having
the other person examine their plans and
goals through open-ended questions.
That way, you can see the big picture
together and figure out how your product
or service can best fit into their idea.
Prepare yourself with intelligent questions
– this beats ‘winging it’ every time!
Developing your persuasive
communication skills will help you navigate
your work more effectively, build better
relationships, and ultimately, thrive.
RYAN ESTIS is keynote speaker and
management consultant with more
than 20 years’ experience as a sales
professional and leader.
Visit: ryanestis.com
68 | April 2021
April 2021 | 69

BUSINESS
Marketing & PR
BUSINESS
Logged On
Three golden rules for investing
in relationships with customers
Giving attention to the relationship between your business and its customers pays dividends,
writes JEANNIE WALTERS, who advises on the simple ways to keep your store in high regard.
Is your digital marketing strategy due for a check-up?
The digital marketing landscape is constantly shifting, so it’s essential to set a quarterly appointment
to review your strategy, writes ERIKA MONTGOMERY.
A good friend of mine once explained
why our friendship was so strong:
“Relationships are like banks. It works
best when you both make deposits. That
way, there’s always something in the bank
for a withdrawal.”
While it’s wonderful to hear that someone
you admire feels the same way you do,
his observation was useful for other
reasons too.
Apply this principle to business, and
you’ll see that everyone – whether
customer or company – needs to make
a withdrawal from the relationship ‘bank’
at one time or another.
If your customers feel nurtured and
appreciated during the good times, they
will be more forgiving, understanding and
compassionate when there’s a problem.
Conversely, If your customers are
mistreated, ignored, unappreciated or
neglected when everything is going as
expected, how will they feel when you
need to make a withdrawal from the
relationship bank?
It’s well-documented that a little mix-up
or error when interacting with a business
can actually increase loyalty when the
recovery is handled well.
However, there are conditions attached;
this only holds true when the customer
believes the problem was beyond the
business’ or staff member’s control,
unforeseeable, or the like.
Additionally, if there are several bad
experiences in a row, the customer is
going to lose faith in the business and its
ability to serve them in the future.
Essentially, they have been asked to make
deposits into the relationship bank –
through trust and loyalty to the business –
but the business has now withdrawn more
than it has invested.
As you might imagine, these customers
become incredibly unlikely to purchase
from the business again and may also
generate negative word-of-mouth –
Customers are more loyal to businesses they know and trust.
either by leaving a poor review online or
disparaging the business to their friends
and family.
So, how can business owners invest in the
relationship bank? Here are three ideas.
Proactively, personally, and unconditionally
thank your customers – Many businesses,
from luxury fashion houses to Etsy
makers, include handwritten notes when
fulfilling orders.
No sales pitch, no begging – just a nice,
thoughtful thank you.
Another example is Australian online
retailer Adore Beauty, which began
including a Tim-Tam chocolate biscuit
with every order.
This small, low-cost gesture not
only made customers feel special by
being treated to a sweet gift, but also
emphasised Adore Beauty’s identity as an
Australian business and made it stand out
among competitors.
Cha-ching. It’s in the bank!
Understand your customers – Think about
how you can make shoppers’ lives easier
by making it more convenient to navigate
your store, your website, or mobile app.
How can you make their experience of
shopping faster, easier, and happier?
If your
customers feel
nurtured and
appreciated
during the
good times,
they will be
more forgiving,
understanding
and
compassionate
when there’s a
problem
While Amazon is not always a top
contender for customer experience, it
has certainly established itself as a place
for people to get their shopping done
quickly and easily.
How many times have you, as a customer,
decided to shop there only because
it’s so easy? The site remembers your
preferences, offers relevant suggestions,
and gets you from A to B in record time.
That’s a lot more appealing than filling in
the same order form over and over and
having to hunt for the items you need!
Care about people before they become
customers – Have you ever wandered into
a store and felt like you were interrupting
the sales team? Or perhaps you have been
browsing and they glare at you like you’re
wasting their time?
On the other hand, there are numerous
businesses who prioritise customer
service in their culture.
A recent Customer Experience
Excellence report conducted by KPMG
found that First Choice Liquor, IKEA,
and Rebel Sport were consistently highly
commended by shoppers.
These brands demonstrated that
excellent service, with friendly, helpful
and knowledgeable staff and a seamless
online and offline experience, were key to
winning over customers.
Online, think about sharing useful
content, supporting others, and generally
connecting with people. This will
proactively build relationships and make
people want to become your customers.
At the end of the day, when things go
wrong with your business – and nobody’s
perfect, so the chances are it will –
wouldn’t you rather have something
in the bank?
JEANNIE WALTERS is founder and
CEO of Experience Investigators. Visit:
experienceinvestigators.com
As much as we would all love for our digital
marketing strategy to be a ‘set it and forget
it’ part of doing business, it’s something that
needs to be routinely checked and updated
with the latest trends, data and tools in mind.
While your strategy may differ depending
on the nature of your business and your
campaign scheduling, quarterly check-ups
are a good rule of thumb.
They provide you with regular opportunities
review what has succeeded and what needs
improvement in order to enhance your digital
presence and meet your business goals.
What’s working – and what’s not
By taking an in-depth look at the numbers
on your various social media channels and
website, you can see which elements of your
strategy have helped you meet your goals
and which areas need more attention.
For example, which images on your
Instagram receive the most interactions? Did
your video strategy gain you more followers?
Because the digital world is always changing,
the chances are that if something isn’t
working the way you thought it would,
someone has created a more effective way to
communicate using fresh tools, features, or
even a new app.
By staying on top of technology and adapting
your digital marketing strategy accordingly,
you may find your success rate improving.
Learn from data
Staying with analytics, remember that there’s
so much data available at your fingertips
– and it can all be accessed for free using
platforms like Google Analytics or Bitly.
These easy-to-read charts and graphs
will let you know how people are finding
you, what they’re clicking on and how long
they’re staying. Check these numbers at
least quarterly, observe the trends, and
brainstorm ideas on how to improve.
Stay organised
The advantage of digital marketing is
‘agility’ – that is, the ability to change
direction quickly.
Keep your digital marketing strategy strong with regular check-ups.
If something isn’t working, don’t let it run
unchecked. Work can pile up, but if you
have an established, routinely scheduled
digital marketing review on the calendar, it
will be easier to follow through on fixes and
monitor your progress.
Achieve long-term goals
How do you eat an elephant? One bite
at a time! Long-term goals are important
but thinking about the big picture can
be intimidating.
Breaking up your digital marketing goals
into quarterly chunks increases your
chances of hitting the finish line on time.
Test new solutions
No business is perfect; no matter how well
you’re doing, there’s bound to be at least
a few elements of your digital marketing
strategy that aren’t performing as well as
you may have predicted.
When this happens, it’s time to try a new
direction. Keep testing different variables:
keywords, content type, schedule and
advertisements.
It’s all about trial and error, but you need
a regular review process to spot the errors
and adjust.
How do you review?
What did you have in mind when creating
your marketing strategy? Ideally, you
By taking an
in-depth look
at the numbers
on your various
social media
channels and
website, you
can see which
elements of
your strategy
have helped
you meet your
goals and which
areas need more
attention
took your vision for 2021 and narrowed it
down into a list of SMART goals – specific,
measurable, achievable, relevant, and timely.
You can apply the same framework when
you reassess and rewrite your goals for the
next quarter:
Specific – Ask yourself what exactly you hope
to get out of your marketing. Do you want
more website traffic? An increase your social
following? Higher sales? Get specific. How
much of an increase do you want to see?
Measurable – For your goals to be
successful, you need to be able to measure
them against some benchmark.
For example, higher website traffic could
be measured using Google Analytics to
determine how many visitors were clicking
onto the site before the campaign, and how
many were afterwards.
Achievable – Make sure your goals are
reasonable and don’t set the bar too high. To
expect a dramatic change immediately is not
realistic. Consider the time and resources
you can dedicate to your marketing strategy,
as well as the industry you’re in, when
determining how achievable your goals are.
Relevant – Having a social media account,
blog or newsletter just to have one is not
doing your business any favours. Define how
these content platforms will improve your
business and benefit your customers.
Timely – Quarterly goals enable you to track
progress regularly and stay motivated.
It’s crucial to understand what worked in the
last quarter and what didn’t. Take a hard look
at your failures, too.
Falling short or completely missing your goal
is a hard to swallow but evaluating what went
wrong can help you avoid making the same
mistakes in the future.
ERIKA MONTGOMERY is CEO and
founder of Three Girls Media, a fullservice
marketing and PR agency in
Seattle that works with companies
worldwide. Visit: threegirlsmedia.com
70 | April 2021
April 2021 | 71

My Bench
Laurie Moffatt
Laurence Moffatt Manufacturing Jewellers, Sydney NSW
Age 65 • Years in Trade 48 • Training 4-year apprenticeship • First job Bernard Lowry Jewellers, 1973 Other Qualifications Diploma in Gemmology
SIGNATURE PIECE
GOLD HOLLOW BANGLE
PRIVATE COMMISSION
This 18-carat gold bangle was commissioned by a client to
celebrate her 30th wedding anniversary. The design was
based on a costume jewellery bangle she owned. I love outof-the-box
commissions and also restoring Australian antique
pieces. These have included gold brooches presented to the
famous Spanish dancer Lola Montes, to silver emu-topped
claret jugs, emu eggs and centrepieces made by notable
Australian silversmiths of the 19th Century.
4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Sapphire because of
the variety of colour, durability, and that Australia
is a great natural source of it.
4FAVOURITE METAL 18-carat yellow gold
because of its malleability, depth of colour and
hue, and it is a pleasure to deal with!
4FAVOURITE TOOL An Italian saw bought at the
start of my apprenticeship, which allows you to cut
out a baguette setting or more intricate designs.
4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY My coffee
machine! Otherwise, it would be the best linear
engine turning lathe.
It was manufactured by George Plant & Son in
England and has been unsurpassed for hundreds
of years.
4BEST PART OF THE JOB Simply sitting
and creating.
4WORST PART OF THE JOB Polishing!
4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER Simplistic designs
often work out the best.
4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER One of the most
important elements of the job is communication
and understanding between you and your clients.
4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH
The back – definitely the back!
4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE Of its challenges
and the way it helps you to discover your abilities.
72 | April 2021

OPINION
Soapbox
TO HOLD
One afternoon – just before I was about
to fly to Thailand for the Bangkok Gem &
Jewellery Show – I was preparing to leave
my store when one of the jewellers came
to me with a ruby-and-diamond ring in his
hand, and a worried look on his face.
The ring was a remake we had put together
using the customer’s own ruby. The ruby
weighed just over 2 carats and was a fine
colour – though it was included with some
eye-visible ‘feathers’.
At the time, an equivalent fine natural
ruby would have held a value around the
$1,500 per carat mark – but now, as the
jeweller showed me its fractured remains,
it was worthless.
We had made the original ring from scratch;
the diamonds and ruby were successfully
set, then the ring was polished, plated and
presented to the customer. However, it was
slightly loose, and we offered to re-size it.
The customer advised that her fingers
fluctuate in size and so requested we adjust
it by attaching some gold beads to the inside
of the shank so that it would be a little
tighter on her finger, but still wearable
if it swelled.
Rather than un-setting and then resetting
the ruby, the jeweller worked on
the complete ring – after all, ruby and
diamond are usually able to withstand
nearby solder type work, so he assumed
the shank would be safe.
Wrong! This ruby, when the ring was
finished, had been totally destroyed.
Fissures and cracks had appeared across
the entire surface. My assumption was that
indirect heat was the problem but I couldn’t
understand why. I immediately phoned
the customer and explained what had
happened, offering to replace the ruby.
The advice that could save you from
your own gemstone nightmare
CHRIS HOLDSWORTH offers a warning to jewellers over the dangers of gemstone treatments,
which can have expensive consequences if undetected.
The customer, understandably concerned,
agreed to my offer.
As I was heading to Bangkok the next day
I took the ring with me, hoping to improve
my chances of replacing the ruby.
Considering my options, I pondered the
gemstone’s ‘life’ – after being mined from
the earth, faceting and even setting had not
cracked it.
So how had this particular ruby shattered
ruby during a routine remake?
Once I arrived at the show in Bangkok,
the answer soon became obvious; the
ruby was an ‘enhanced’ glass fracturefilled
gemstone.
Those gemstones were first mentioned
in journals only a couple of years before
and had yet to gain any general traction in
Australia at the time, but they were known
within the ruby trade.
The fracture-filled rubies were worth around
$50 per carat and were very prevalent
overseas. I bought a couple to study further
back in Australia.
Returning home, I double checked my
suspicion. Under magnification, the ruby
was definitely glass-filled; some fractures
had gas bubbles and surface lustre
differences were clearly visible.
I phoned the customer again and presented
my findings. Understandably, she was not
impressed! She was also adamant that the
ruby was not treated, as she had purchased
the original ring from a small antique
jewellery store in 2005.
The ring came with a valuation from the
store, and since that time the purchase had
been valued twice by National Council of
Jewellery Valuers members.
The valuations identified the ruby as natural
I still wonder to
this day – had I
examined that
ruby prior to it
breaking, would
anything have
seemed ‘off ’?
with no mention of any treatments.
I did explain that the fracture-filling
treatment was relatively new in Australia,
although quite common overseas,
particularly in Asia.
Fortunately, I had a long and positive
relationship with the customer and
eventually we agreed on a new, five-stone
ring using the four diamonds from the
original make, as well as an additional
diamond provided by me, to be made free
of charge.
I still wonder to this day had I examined that
ruby prior to it breaking, would anything
have seemed ‘off’?
The Gemmological Association of Australia
had published an article on glass-filled
rubies a couple of years before but I had not
seen one to know what to look for.
If there were to be a silver lining, I’d hope
this cautionary tale would encourage those
without gemmological training to seek
some out, and those with gemmological
training to stay updated.
Glass fracture-filled rubies are here,
a long with dozens of other treated
gemstone materials, and we should be
able to identify them. Some are unstable
and vulnerable to damage from heated
ultrasonic cleaners, chemical damage from
household cleaning products, or standard
jewellery repair processes.
Early identification and advising your client
of your findings will go a long way towards
saving you from your own nightmare!
Name: Chris Holdsworth
Company: Holdsworth Bros Jewellers
Position: Director
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Years in Industry: 30
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74 | April 2021

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