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NZ WineNew Zealand's<br />
<strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong> $9.90<br />
favourite wine magazine<br />
MARLBOROUGH<br />
CELLAR DOORS<br />
THAT SHOULD NOT BE MISSED<br />
NZD $9.90<br />
Tastings reveal a new Pinot Noir region…<br />
Also…A lesson in cheese with wine
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Contents<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong><br />
<strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />
IN THIS ISSUE<br />
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
Martin Gillion, Daniel Honan,<br />
Anne-Marie Nansett, Louis Pierard,<br />
John Saker, Charmaine Smith,<br />
Vic Williams.<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
Courtesy of Winenz.com<br />
Richard Brimer<br />
DESIGN<br />
Spinc Media<br />
PUBLISHERS<br />
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027 256 8014<br />
colin@affinityads.com<br />
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ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES<br />
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jax.affinityads@gmail.com<br />
WEBSITE<br />
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COVER PHOTO:<br />
So many stories, so much learning to<br />
do at Marlborough cellar doors.<br />
8 MARLBOROUGH CELLAR<br />
DOORS<br />
A rundown on the latest<br />
trends and who’s who.<br />
18 APPELLATION<br />
MARLBOROUGH<br />
Protecting and proving real<br />
identity of origin.<br />
20 METHODE<br />
MARLBOROUGH<br />
A registered society<br />
protecting provenance.<br />
Plus a recent event.<br />
23 WINE AND TIME<br />
More news and views.<br />
18<br />
27 NEW RELEASES<br />
Don’t miss these.<br />
29 TASTING WINNERS<br />
The Pinots show their paces.<br />
Blind tastings led by Simon<br />
Nash MW.<br />
46 GIBBSTON VALLEY<br />
What’s to visit and enjoy,<br />
all amongst that graphic<br />
Central Otago landscape.<br />
6 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Contents<br />
46<br />
56<br />
8<br />
56 AMISFIELD<br />
On the Pisa slopes and now<br />
organic; a must to visit.<br />
62 THE LANDING<br />
Northland’s new look winery,<br />
perfect vine romance.<br />
72 NEW WORLD<br />
What’s newly ranging in New<br />
World Supermarkets.<br />
62<br />
74 Cheese with Wine<br />
Try these perfect match ups<br />
with wine..<br />
81 ‘LYRES CHOICE’<br />
An introduction to<br />
non-alcohol drinks.<br />
82 Events<br />
What’s on, in and around<br />
New Zealand.<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
7
Feature | Marlborough Wine Trail<br />
Marlborough<br />
wine trail<br />
identifies<br />
wines that<br />
should not<br />
be missed<br />
Cellar doors catering for all<br />
tastes, from fresh, zesty sauvignon<br />
blanc to fine, rare and older<br />
wines of many styles, from artisan<br />
winemakers to slick corporate<br />
producers, from gourmet food to<br />
simple platters in the vineyard, not<br />
to mention the famous sunshine<br />
that produces all these goodies, all<br />
this makes Marlborough an ideal<br />
place to visit next summer.<br />
Charmian Smith explores the<br />
Marlborough wine trail and<br />
recommends wines that shouldn’t<br />
be missed.<br />
T<br />
here’s a plethora of<br />
cellar doors to visit in<br />
the sunny Wairau valley<br />
west of Blenheim. The<br />
region is so vine-friendly<br />
that vineyards now<br />
spread over the river plains, up<br />
into the southern valleys, south<br />
over the hills into the Awatere<br />
valley and even further south<br />
down the coast to Blind River and<br />
Ward.<br />
Not surprisingly, there are<br />
numerous cellar doors to visit<br />
which, along with the sunny, dry<br />
climate, makes Marlborough a<br />
delight for anyone interested in<br />
wine, whether for the pleasure<br />
of enjoying a glass or two with<br />
food in congenial surroundings<br />
or exploring the many styles and<br />
varieties the region has to offer.<br />
Marlborough of course is<br />
known for its sauvignon blanc,<br />
not only in its regular crisp fruity<br />
style but also for alternative barrel<br />
fermented styles that open a<br />
whole new aspect on the variety.<br />
Pretty well every cellar door<br />
offers a sauvignon blanc or<br />
two but don’t assume they are<br />
all alike. Although many are<br />
blended from vineyards around<br />
the region, each subregion has<br />
it’s own characteristics and wine<br />
buffs will want to explore single<br />
vineyard wines to distinguish<br />
between the greener, crunchier<br />
sauvignon from the Awatere, the<br />
fleshier mouthfeel of sauvignon<br />
grown in the southern clays and<br />
the tropical fruit flavours from the<br />
vineyards nearer the sea.<br />
But there’s much more than<br />
sauvignon to explore here. Try<br />
the lively chardonnays, the<br />
fragrant pinot gris, racy rieslings,<br />
savoury pinot noirs many with<br />
characteristic hints of omega<br />
plums, and, of course, the<br />
stylish bubblies, not forgetting<br />
the pale, fresh, charming rosés.<br />
Increasingly you’ll also find some<br />
less common varieties well worth<br />
sampling - albariño, grüner<br />
veltliner, viognier, gewürztraminer,<br />
pinot blanc, peppery syrah,<br />
malbec and montepulciano.<br />
Older vintages and library stock<br />
are a bonus in several tasting<br />
rooms.<br />
8<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Marlborough Wine Trail | Feature<br />
Such is the prestige of<br />
Marlborough that several<br />
European winemakers have been<br />
attracted to establish boutique<br />
wineries here, Daniel Le Brun<br />
of No 1 Family Estate, the Swiss<br />
Fromm family, Hans Herzog, the<br />
Bourgeois family at Clos Henri<br />
and Edel Everling of Johanneshof.<br />
Most of their vineyards are closely<br />
planted with low vines European<br />
style.<br />
Several of the huge<br />
multinationals also have large<br />
wineries here, among them<br />
Constellation, Lion Nathan,<br />
Pernod Ricard, Delegat, Fosters,<br />
LVMH, Treasury Estates and<br />
the Foley Family. Marlborough<br />
produces 70% of New Zealand<br />
wine, although much of it is<br />
sauvignon blanc exported in<br />
bulk.<br />
Most vineyards in the Wairau<br />
Valley near Blenheim and<br />
Renwick are on stony alluvial<br />
soils, some with more silt than<br />
others, while the southern valleys<br />
and hillsides, including Brancott,<br />
Omaka, Benmorven and<br />
Waihopai valleys, have clay soils<br />
which are favoured for pinot noir.<br />
Cellar doors vary from small,<br />
where you may get to talk to<br />
the winemaker, to large and<br />
corporate. Don’t overlook<br />
producers whose products you<br />
might find in supermarkets such<br />
as Villa Maria or Saint Clair,<br />
because their cellar doors show<br />
their reserve and single vineyard<br />
wines which are at the top of<br />
the game. A few wineries also<br />
have vineyards in Hawkes Bay or<br />
Central Otago and these wines<br />
are often available for tasting too.<br />
Most offer platters to enjoy<br />
with a glass of wine in pleasant<br />
surroundings, and there are a few<br />
restaurants offering full lunches:<br />
Saint Clair, Wither Hills and Wairau<br />
River, with Rock Ferry and Cloudy<br />
Bay reopening their restaurants<br />
next summer. All are busy, so it’s<br />
advisable to book a table ahead.<br />
Most wineries make a small<br />
charge for tasting which is usually<br />
waived if you buy wine and some<br />
offer more intimate and luxurious<br />
wine and food experiences,<br />
particularly Cloudy Bay and Hans<br />
Herzog.<br />
If you don’t have time to visit<br />
as many wineries as you’d like<br />
or want to sample wines that<br />
don’t have cellar doors, you can<br />
indulge your tastebuds at the<br />
Wine Station in the Blenheim<br />
railway station opposite the iSite.<br />
Cycling round vineyards is<br />
popular, especially in Renwick<br />
where there are several cellar<br />
doors within a small area and<br />
tour operators will pick up any<br />
wine you’ve bought. Informative<br />
small-group wine tours are also<br />
available, or you can drive<br />
yourself. For general information<br />
visit marlboroughnz.com/<br />
visit or newzealand.com/nz/<br />
marlborough.<br />
Lawson’s Dry Hills<br />
Ross and Barbara Lawson<br />
were among the pioneer<br />
Marlborough wine growers as<br />
the huge gnarled trunks of the<br />
vines alongside its modest tasting<br />
room and winery attest. These old<br />
vines are responsible for Lawson’s<br />
famous gewürztraminer, fragrant<br />
with rose petals and hints of<br />
lavender, luscious yet fresh. It’s<br />
just the drop to sit back and<br />
luxuriate with - summer or winter.<br />
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Feature | Marlborough Wine Trail<br />
Nigel Whittaker at the cellar<br />
door usually has six or more<br />
wines available to taste, and it’s<br />
fascinating to compare the white<br />
label estate wines with the more<br />
complex reserve wines. Lovers of<br />
creamy, nutty, oaky chardonnay<br />
should not miss the reserve,<br />
made in the style the late Ross<br />
Lawson loved.<br />
Lawson’s Dry Hills is the closest<br />
cellar door to Blenheim and<br />
offers simple platters or you can<br />
bring your own lunch to enjoy in<br />
the courtyard along with a glass<br />
of wine - and the view of the Dry<br />
Hills behind.<br />
lawsonsdryhills.co.nz<br />
Josh Scott winemaker of Allan Scott.<br />
Lawson’s Dry Hills - don’t miss the<br />
gewürztraminer.<br />
Wither Hills<br />
The imposing tasting room on<br />
a hillock above the road offers<br />
stylish food matched with wine in<br />
the restaurant and wisteria-lined<br />
courtyard.<br />
You will find some of its<br />
supermarket wines here,<br />
including the easy drinking,<br />
lower alcohol (9.5%) Early Light<br />
range, but wine aficionados will<br />
want to taste the single vineyard<br />
and cellar collection wines and a<br />
few that are only available here.<br />
For me the highlight was the<br />
Rarangi Riesling 2011. At nine<br />
years old it was reminiscent<br />
of buttered toast and lime<br />
marmalade, intense, long<br />
and harmonious, an excellent<br />
example of how a good riesling<br />
will develop over several years.<br />
Wither Hills’ stylish restaurant and<br />
tasting room.<br />
For something different try the<br />
Legado a fortified pinot noir,<br />
rather like a port.<br />
witherhills.co.nz<br />
Allan Scott Family<br />
Winemakers<br />
A real family affair, siblings Josh<br />
and Sarah Scott, have taken<br />
over the business from their<br />
parents, Allan and Catherine<br />
Scott, founders of the eponymous<br />
winery.<br />
They are raring to put in place<br />
their plans for the cellar door<br />
and casual bistro with simple<br />
food. The distinctive building is<br />
full of nooks and crannies, sunny<br />
windows, cosy alcoves by the fire<br />
or intimate mezzanine spaces.<br />
Wine tasting here is self-service<br />
thanks to Enomatic machines<br />
which dispense tastings, half or<br />
full glasses of wine while keeping<br />
it fresh with inert gas. Get a card<br />
at the counter and help yourself<br />
to whatever you’ll like to try.<br />
When I called it had only just<br />
opened but Josh assures me that<br />
there will be information about<br />
the wines and staff will be able to<br />
answer any questions.<br />
The whole range of Scott<br />
wines is available, including the<br />
Scott Base wines from Central<br />
Otago and the premium reserve<br />
Eli Chardonnay and Pinot Noir<br />
named after Josh’s severaltimes-great<br />
grandfather, the first<br />
Scott to come to New Zealand.<br />
But it’s the affordable estate<br />
range of wines that typify the<br />
straightforward varietals that put<br />
Marlborough on the wine map.<br />
The sauvignon blanc is<br />
typically fresh, aromatic with a<br />
hint of apple and citrus; riesling is<br />
intensely lemony and perfumed;<br />
and pinot gris oozes stone fruit.<br />
You can compare Hawkes Bay<br />
and Central Otago chardonnays,<br />
including the full-on, oaky buttery<br />
caramel Scott Base reserve (his<br />
mother’s favourite style) and<br />
likewise the Marlborough and<br />
Central Otago pinots.<br />
allanscott.com<br />
Cloudy Bay<br />
Cloudy Bay is one of the<br />
best internationally known<br />
Marlborough brands. Part of<br />
the luxury goods group LVMH,<br />
they offer several varieties of<br />
wine and food experience,<br />
from tastings and vineyard<br />
tours to foraging expeditions,<br />
a couple of days sailing in the<br />
Marlborough Sounds or luxury<br />
accommodation in their stunning<br />
Shack.<br />
Luxury at Cloudy Bay.<br />
10<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Marlborough Wine Trail | Feature<br />
The understated but<br />
stylish cellar door is currently<br />
undergoing renovation but<br />
both it and Jack’s Raw Bar will<br />
be open in summer. Besides the<br />
exemplary sauvignon blanc and<br />
chardonnay, hidden gems in<br />
the tasting room usually include<br />
some older vintages, including,<br />
when I called, a 16 year old<br />
sauvignon blanc. Only well-made<br />
sauvignon will develop with age<br />
and this was deliciously matured<br />
from its lithe, minerally, pungent,<br />
citrus youth to a still fresh, richer,<br />
fuller dry white with aromas of<br />
thyme honey.<br />
Cloudy Bay was the first<br />
Marlborough winery to produce<br />
a barrel fermented sauvignon,<br />
Te Koko, pungent, textural, broad<br />
and complex. Many have<br />
emulated it since but theirs is<br />
still one of the benchmarks. An<br />
interesting comparison is to<br />
compare their two pinot noirs,<br />
the plummy spicy Marlborough<br />
and the darker flavoured, silky<br />
textured, structured Te Wahi from<br />
Central Otago.<br />
cloudybay.co.nz<br />
Something old and something new<br />
at Jackson Estate.<br />
Jackson Estate<br />
If you thought the early settlers<br />
shack built into the streamlined<br />
red winery at Jackson Estate<br />
looked like something from The<br />
Lord of the Rings you wouldn’t be<br />
far wrong. One of their designers<br />
developed the concept for this<br />
wonderful example of collision<br />
architecture. Old iron from the<br />
1860s Jackson homestead has<br />
been used in the (apparently)<br />
ramshackle chimney, but inside<br />
the tasting room is sleekly<br />
modern with an atmospheric<br />
tasting cellar downstairs.<br />
Like all Marlborough producers<br />
they make several sauvignon<br />
blancs - don’t miss my favourite,<br />
the black label Somerset Block<br />
2 Sauvignon Blanc 2017, a<br />
complex, vibrant wine made<br />
almost in a Bordeaux style and<br />
ideal with food.<br />
However, unusually for<br />
Marlborough, Jackson specialises<br />
in pinot noir and produces<br />
several fine ones from the<br />
southern clays which they hold<br />
for a few years before release.<br />
2016 Vintage Widow pinot noir<br />
is one well worth trying, fragrant,<br />
textural with a hint of toffee and<br />
toast - the 2015 won the best<br />
pinot noir in the 2019 IWSC wine<br />
show in London. My favourite,<br />
however, was the 2014 Somerset<br />
pinot noir, complex, textural<br />
savoury with underlying notes<br />
of berry coulis and a lingering<br />
aftertaste.<br />
jacksonestate.co.nz<br />
Forrest<br />
Tucked behind vineyards<br />
along the Golden Mile cycle<br />
trail is Forrest’s relaxed tasting<br />
room. John and his daughter<br />
Beth, now general manager and<br />
winemaker, have developed the<br />
Doctors’ naturally lower alcohol<br />
wines (9.5% as opposed to the<br />
usual 13-14%), achieved by<br />
tweaking the viticulture so they<br />
retain varietal character.<br />
Don’t miss The Doctors Rosé, a<br />
deliciously fresh, fragrant and dry<br />
summer wine.<br />
There are some unusual<br />
varieties such as albarino and<br />
petit manseng for wine buffs<br />
Beth and John Forrest - innovative<br />
wines.<br />
to explore but you certainly<br />
shouldn’t miss the rare Tatty<br />
Bogler wines from the Waitaki<br />
region - John was one of the<br />
pioneering planters there in<br />
the 1990s. The Tatty Bogler<br />
Chardonnay 2018, with rich<br />
fruit, ripe nectarines and a long<br />
savoury finish is a gem and a fine<br />
example of what the capricious<br />
Waitaki region can produce in<br />
good years.<br />
forrest.co.nz<br />
Clos Henri’s tasting room is in a<br />
little wooden church on a hill.<br />
Clos Henri<br />
Clos Henri’s tasting room, a<br />
little wooden church on a hillock<br />
surrounded by low, close-planted<br />
vines, is a stunning site and one<br />
that could well renew the interest<br />
of tasters bored with the general<br />
run of Marlborough sauvignon.<br />
From a family of 10 generations<br />
of winemakers in Sancerre,<br />
France, Remi and Jean-Marie<br />
Bourgeois started planting their<br />
Marlborough vineyards in 2001<br />
after a long search for a place<br />
they could make premium<br />
sauvignon blanc and pinot<br />
noir as they did - and still do - in<br />
Sancerre.<br />
The 110 ha vineyards are<br />
on three different soil types,<br />
greywacke river stones and<br />
Broadbridge clay on the flats and<br />
Wither clay on the hill slopes.<br />
Although they grow only<br />
sauvignon and pinot they make<br />
several different wines, Petit Clos a<br />
blend of all the terroirs, Bel Echo,<br />
Clos Henri and “secret cuvées”<br />
Clay and Stones, that distinctly<br />
show how sauvignon blanc can<br />
manifest on the different soil<br />
types - the ripe stone fruit and<br />
nettles, and crisp complexity<br />
of the 2016 Clay and the more<br />
tropical, juicy harmony and<br />
complexity of the 2016 Stones.<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
11
Feature | Marlborough Wine Trail<br />
It’s also interesting to compare<br />
their Henri Bourgeois Sancerre les<br />
Baronnes 2018, a light but intense<br />
and dry French sauvignon.<br />
closhenri.com<br />
Fromm<br />
I still remember the first time I<br />
visited Fromm many years ago.<br />
My palate was jaded from visiting<br />
several wineries with similar<br />
wines but I felt I had to do this<br />
last one before finishing for the<br />
day. I’m glad I did because I was<br />
blown away by the intensity and<br />
structure of their superb pinot<br />
noirs. Since then they have gone<br />
from strength to strength, still with<br />
the same winemaker, Hatsch<br />
Kalberer.<br />
Although it produces fine<br />
whites, the Swiss owned family<br />
winery still excels at pinot noir<br />
from its low, close-planted vines.<br />
There are several single vineyard<br />
pinots but the Clayvin pinot noir<br />
is its flagship, one of the finest<br />
Marlborough pinots, fragrant,<br />
spicy, silky-textured, dark fruited<br />
with fine-grained, dusty tannins.<br />
Also charming is the Cuvée H, a<br />
blend of its three vineyards.<br />
Malbec is rare in Marlborough<br />
but Fromm’s 2015 is deliciously<br />
dense with silky ripe fruit and<br />
supple dusty tannins.<br />
Sadly they have pulled out<br />
their gewürztraminer vines but<br />
still have some of their luscious<br />
late harvest 2018, obstreperously<br />
fragrant, intense, sweet but so<br />
well balanced you’d almost<br />
think it was dry. I almost cried<br />
Winemakers Cullen Neal and Joe Trappitt will show you through their<br />
wines at Sugar Loaf.<br />
when general manager Stephan<br />
Walliser told me that was their last<br />
vintage.<br />
frommwinery.co.nz<br />
Sugar Loaf<br />
A retro wine tasting experience<br />
awaits those who venture down<br />
the lane to Sugar Loaf in the<br />
heart of the Rapaura vineyards.<br />
There one of the enthusiastic<br />
young winemakers will take you<br />
through the wines in the no-frills<br />
tasting room separated from<br />
the winery by a screen of barrel<br />
staves. In a region where there<br />
are more sauvignon blancs<br />
than you’d want to taste, theirs<br />
is one of the more delicious,<br />
fresh but balanced, oozing ripe<br />
passionfruit and tropical fruits.<br />
They also make a lovely riesling,<br />
fragrant with lime and peaches,<br />
again with a precise balance -<br />
not too sharp and not too sweet<br />
but all in harmony.<br />
sugarloafwines.co.nz<br />
Te Whare Ra<br />
At this small family owned<br />
winery you’ll encounter a<br />
couple passionate about their<br />
winemaking and their organic<br />
vineyard, the oldest still growing<br />
in Marlborough. Phone ahead,<br />
ring the bell at their no-frills cellar<br />
door and one of the winemakers<br />
will show and explain their<br />
intense, harmonious wines.<br />
Wine’s whole purpose is to be<br />
delicious, says Anna Flowerday,<br />
and their exquisitely balanced<br />
and charming wines certainly<br />
are. Their aromatic varieties<br />
particularly stand out: the fresh,<br />
fragrant, Toru 2020, a blend of<br />
riesling, gewürztraminer and<br />
pinot gris ideal for summer<br />
Excelling at pinot noir - Fromm’s<br />
wines are unforgettable.<br />
Anna and Jason Flowerday in the buckwheat Te Whare Ra.<br />
12<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Marlborough Wine Trail | Feature<br />
drinking; the fleshy, racy old vine<br />
“D” riesling 2018; and the intense,<br />
tight 2019 gewürztraminer, one of<br />
the best in Marlborough.<br />
twrwines.co.nz<br />
Hunter’s: a glorious garden for<br />
summer lunches or just to enjoy a<br />
glass of wine.<br />
Hunter’s Wines<br />
One of the earliest vineyards<br />
in Marlborough, Hunters put the<br />
region on the world wine map<br />
when it won the top award at<br />
the Sunday Times Wine Festival in<br />
London three years in a row from<br />
1986 to 1988. Their sauvignon<br />
blanc today is still fragrant<br />
and crisp, oozing passionfruit,<br />
capsicum and grapefruit, but<br />
I was intrigued by their stylish,<br />
barrel fermented 2018 grüner<br />
veltliner and their creamy, nutty<br />
Offshoot 2018 chardonnay.<br />
Offshoot is a new label that<br />
allows the young winemakers to<br />
experiment with new techniques<br />
and presentation.<br />
The tasting room is in a<br />
renovated farmhouse surrounded<br />
by a sheltered garden and a<br />
native plant walk, a lovely place<br />
for a platter and glass of wine.<br />
hunters.co.nz<br />
Virginie le Brun shows the elegant<br />
traditionally made sparkling wines<br />
of No 1 Family Estate.<br />
No 1 Family Estate<br />
With a family heritage of<br />
making Champagne in France,<br />
Daniel le Brun planted his<br />
first vineyard here in 1980 to<br />
make sparkling wine and soon<br />
established a reputation for<br />
rich, yeasty wines. While the<br />
eponymous label sill exists,<br />
Daniel and his Kiwi wife Adele<br />
establish No 1 Family Estate in<br />
1996 and now their children<br />
Virginie and Remy are taking<br />
over the business. In their bijou<br />
tasting room covered in virginia<br />
creeper you may taste several of<br />
their precise, elegant methode<br />
traditionelle wines from the crisp,<br />
dry Assemblé (chardonnay<br />
and pinot noir) through the<br />
nutty, yeasty non-vintage Cuvée<br />
No 1 blanc de blancs, to the<br />
delicate, pale pink non-vintage<br />
rosé. Be sure to taste any of the<br />
reserves or special cuvées if<br />
they’re available to see different<br />
manifestations of intensity,<br />
elegance and charm.<br />
no1familyestate.co.nz<br />
Samantha White and Peter Jackson<br />
winemaker of Whitehaven.<br />
Whitehaven Wines<br />
A bright tasting room in the<br />
Vines Village in Rapaura Rd<br />
showcases Whitehaven’s pristine<br />
wine, much of which is exported<br />
to the US. They like New Zealand<br />
sauvignon blanc there, says<br />
Samantha White, daughter of the<br />
founders Greg and Sue White,<br />
and their fragrant, ripe sauvignon<br />
oozing bright capsicum and<br />
passionfruit flavours is just the<br />
style Americans enjoy. But I loved<br />
the fresh, tingly 2017 riesling that<br />
hints of mandarins and dances<br />
on the tongue. There’s also a<br />
delicious 2018 noble riesling<br />
exuding dried apricot and honey,<br />
sweet but harmonious with a<br />
clean textural finish.<br />
whitehaven.co.nz<br />
Individualist but outstanding wines<br />
(and brandy) are to be found at<br />
Johanneshof.<br />
Johanneshof<br />
There’s a Germanic feel to<br />
Johanneshof’s rustic tasting room<br />
along the Picton road and the<br />
small pinot noir vineyard climbing<br />
a steep hill behind. Beneath is<br />
a narrow tunnel dug to store<br />
wine, especially their sparkling<br />
wine and maturing brandy. It’s<br />
not surprising given one of the<br />
partners, Edel Everling hails<br />
from the Rhine. She, Warwick<br />
Foley and his wife Rachel make<br />
a surprisingly large number of<br />
rich, silky wines from various<br />
Marlborough vineyards which<br />
they usually age for a year or two<br />
before releasing.<br />
Their sparkling wines are held<br />
on lees for nine years which<br />
develops rich biscuity flavours.<br />
The recently disgorged Emmi<br />
2011 is nutty, seamless and crisply<br />
dry, while the New Dawn 2010<br />
rosé is beautifully creamy and<br />
textured.<br />
Their much-awarded, perfumed<br />
gewürztraminer is sweet and<br />
rich with a fresh finish. This variety<br />
takes time to develop and come<br />
into its own, Warwick says.<br />
After tasting these and the<br />
chardonnay, riesling and pinot<br />
noir, for something different try<br />
Edelbrand, an aged brandy - the<br />
oldest components date from<br />
1991 - with a lingering aftertaste<br />
of almonds and toast.<br />
johanneshof.co.nz<br />
Spy Valley<br />
This large family owned winery,<br />
named for the international<br />
satellite communications station<br />
further up the Waihopai valley,<br />
produces a range of pristine<br />
varietals as clean, bright and<br />
fresh as its modern tasting room<br />
and function centre.<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
13
Feature | Marlborough Wine Trail<br />
The Simonds are a welcoming<br />
couple - their tasting room is<br />
a converted garage on the<br />
edge of the vineyard beside the<br />
Gibson creek.<br />
gibsonbridge.co.nz<br />
Spy Valley’s sunny cellar door.<br />
Look carefully and you may<br />
detect discrete morse code<br />
messages etched into the<br />
building and on its wine labels,<br />
playing on the spy theme.<br />
Their flagship sauvignon blanc<br />
oozes apples, mineral, lime,<br />
herbs and passion fruit with a<br />
racy, mineral finish; their reserve<br />
Envoy 2015 sauvignon blanc is a<br />
delightfully funky example of this<br />
barrel fermented style. Riesling<br />
lovers shouldn’t miss the 2016<br />
riesling, at four years old oozing<br />
lime marmalade and buttered<br />
toast, or the lively 2013 Envoy<br />
riesling, charming, mouthfilling<br />
and racy. Other gems are a<br />
fragrant, lively gewürztraminer<br />
and a peppery syrah.<br />
Blair Macdonald at Bladen.<br />
Bladen<br />
The Macdonalds love wines<br />
from Alsace so they chose to<br />
plant its varieties - pinot gris,<br />
riesling, gewürztraminer and<br />
pinot noir, on their stony vineyard<br />
in Conders Bend Rd. Then they<br />
realised they liked sauvignon<br />
blanc too and planted that -<br />
theirs is fragrant, textural and<br />
minerally.<br />
In fact all the wines of this<br />
small family producer are<br />
focused, fragrant, intense and<br />
delicious. I particularly enjoyed<br />
the intense, floral and crisp 2020<br />
gewürztraminer.<br />
The tiny tasting room is more<br />
of a garden kiosk on the lawn in<br />
front of the vineyard, but a lovely<br />
place to sit in summer and enjoy<br />
one of their platters, perhaps with<br />
their pale, dry rosé.<br />
bladen.co.nz<br />
Gibson Bridge<br />
This 2ha vineyard in Renwick is<br />
a retirement project for Howard<br />
and Julie Simonds. Their passion<br />
is pinot gris and they produce it<br />
in many styles, dry, sweet, barrel<br />
fermented, rosé. If you are lucky<br />
Howard may show you his rich,<br />
complex botrytised wines, really<br />
intense and finely balanced with<br />
a bright acidity and each year<br />
(2011, 2013 and 2014) with its<br />
own character.<br />
They also produce a powerful<br />
dry gewürztraminer - something<br />
for those who find some other<br />
gewürztraminers too overblown.<br />
Howard and Julie Simonds of<br />
Gibson Bridge produce pinot gris in<br />
many guises.<br />
Hans Herzog<br />
Wine buffs should not miss<br />
Hans and Theresa Herzog’s<br />
tasting room and bistro in the<br />
restored white cottages which<br />
also house their gourmet<br />
restaurant, wine lounge and<br />
vineyard accomodation, all<br />
surrounded by delightful formal<br />
gardens.<br />
The Swiss vignerons produce<br />
an astounding range of varietals<br />
from their 11ha vineyard - in<br />
less skilled hands this could be<br />
a recipe for disaster but Hans’<br />
perfectionist viticultural and<br />
winemaking skill ensure precise,<br />
harmonious wines with texture<br />
and structure that are distinctly<br />
European in feel. Most spend a<br />
year or more in oak then another<br />
in bottle in the cellar.<br />
Among an offering of some<br />
27 wines, I tasted a dry textural<br />
arneis, a 6-year-old lithe, racy<br />
riesling, a deliciously spicy,<br />
floral dry gewürztraminer, a<br />
silky tempranillo and the Spirit<br />
of Marlborough, an elegant<br />
Bordeaux blend of merlot and<br />
cabernet franc.<br />
Herzog also offers various<br />
exclusive tasting, tour, dining and<br />
accommodation options.<br />
herzog.co.nz<br />
HEIC Herzog’s charming gardens,<br />
cottage tasting room and restaurant,<br />
the home of perfectionist wines.<br />
Huia Vineyards<br />
Named after the now extinct<br />
bird whose white-tipped feathers<br />
were highly prized by Maori,<br />
Huia makes a small selection<br />
of beautifully balanced, almost<br />
14<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Marlborough Wine Trail | Feature<br />
Claire Allen of Huia and her<br />
beautifully balanced, almost<br />
understated wines.<br />
understated wines that repay<br />
some consideration and<br />
attention.<br />
Claire and Mike Allen are<br />
committed to organic production<br />
and vegan-friendly wines, using<br />
no animal products such as<br />
egg or isinglass to fine the wines.<br />
in summer their small, no-frills<br />
tasting room in the winery spills<br />
out into the forecourt.<br />
Don’t miss the delicious floral<br />
grüner veltliner full of charm<br />
and fruit - apple citrus - with a<br />
crisp finish. Claire describes it<br />
as a cross between pinot gris<br />
and riesling. A serious sauvignon<br />
blanc to change the mind of<br />
those who think they dislike<br />
the variety, the 2019 is mouth<br />
filling, textural and dry with<br />
hints of herbs and tropical fruit.<br />
Their sparkling brut rosé 2017<br />
is elegant with undertones of<br />
strawberries and nuts and a crisp,<br />
lingering finish - just the thing to<br />
relax with on a summer evening.<br />
huiavineyards.com<br />
Gnarled old vines at Saint Clair’s<br />
Vineyard Kitchen vineyard produce<br />
the fine, elegant Dawn sparkling wine.<br />
Saint Clair Family Estate<br />
Saint Clair’s Vineyard Kitchen<br />
and tasting room is surrounded<br />
by gnarled old vines that<br />
produce their flagship Dawn<br />
methode traditionelle. This was<br />
launched in 2014 to celebrate<br />
the 100th birthday of founder<br />
Neal Ibbotson’s mother, Dawn.<br />
While their bright, cheerful<br />
Origin and Vicar’s Choice wines<br />
are widely available, their cellar<br />
door showcases the top end<br />
reserve and pioneer block<br />
single vineyard wines from both<br />
Marlborough and Hawkes Bay.<br />
Their Marlborough whites are a<br />
particularly strong point.<br />
Saint Clair is known for its<br />
sauvignon blancs and their<br />
premium Wairau Reserve is<br />
among the best in Marlborough.<br />
The 2019 is fragrant, intense, ripe,<br />
fresh and beautifully balanced,<br />
oozing passionfruit, gooseberry,<br />
blackcurrant leaf, red capsicum.<br />
Definitely not to be missed.<br />
I also loved the fragrant,<br />
fresh, creamy 2015 Pioneer<br />
Block 5 grüner veltliner with a<br />
nutty hint from ageing on lees;<br />
the zesty 2018 Pioneer Block 9<br />
riesling, a spätlese (later harvest)<br />
style fragrant with lime, lemon,<br />
mandarin, low in alcohol, with its<br />
sweetness and and racy acidity<br />
held in a knife-edge balanced<br />
tension; and the Pioneer Block<br />
17 Hawkes Bay cabernet merlot,<br />
rich, ripe and soft, but with lipsmacking<br />
tannins.<br />
The Vineyard Kitchen restaurant<br />
is busy, and no wonder, with<br />
interesting local food, and a<br />
chef who really understands<br />
vegetables. Vegetarians and<br />
vegans as well as omnivores will<br />
find something enticing here.<br />
saintclair.co.nz<br />
Mount Riley Wines<br />
Mount Riley is unashamedly<br />
commercial, according to<br />
winemaker Matt Murphy. You’ll<br />
find their good value, fresh, fruitdriven<br />
wines in supermarkets<br />
(although they are cheaper at<br />
the cellar door and there’s no<br />
charge for tasting), but you can<br />
also taste wines you mightn’t<br />
have come across before like<br />
the fragrant gewürztraminer or<br />
Unashamedly commercial -<br />
winemaker Matt Murphy and his<br />
good value wines at Mount Riley.<br />
the juicy albariño. It’s also worth<br />
exploring their limited release<br />
wines, a fragrant, minerally<br />
sauvignon, a Central Otago<br />
pinot noir, and their premium<br />
Seventeen Valley range, such<br />
as the nutty creamy 2019<br />
chardonnay, and the spicy fresh<br />
2019 pinot noir.<br />
mtriley.co.nz<br />
Discover the pinnacle of Marlborough<br />
riesling at Framingham.<br />
Framingham<br />
Framingham is an essential<br />
visit for those wanting to explore<br />
the heights of Marlborough<br />
riesling and how well it can age.<br />
Besides the regular Marlborough<br />
varieties, sauvignon blanc, pinot<br />
gris, chardonnay and pinot noir,<br />
they make some of the country’s<br />
finest rieslings and usually have<br />
older vintages to compare.<br />
Don’t miss the premium F Series<br />
2019 old vine dry riesling, rich,<br />
weighty, textural and bone dry;<br />
the racy 2019 Select riesling with<br />
a knife-edge balance between<br />
sweetness and acidity; the<br />
charmingly fresh, harmonious<br />
and textural 2019 Classic<br />
riesling. Compare this with the<br />
2010 Classic riesling which<br />
has developed hints of lime<br />
marmalade and a fascinatingly<br />
dry, crunchy finish with a long<br />
aftertaste. To top this outstanding<br />
lineup, there’s the deliciously<br />
intense, harmonious 2019 Noble<br />
riesling oozing dried apricots, the<br />
epitome of this style.<br />
Make sure you try any library<br />
stock that cellar door manager<br />
Elgee Leung has open to see just<br />
how a well made riesling can<br />
develop with several years bottle<br />
age.<br />
Besides tastings, Framingham<br />
offers lunch platters matched<br />
with wine, a formal sheltered<br />
courtyard, art exhibitions and<br />
musical events.<br />
framingham.co.nz<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
15
Feature | Marlborough Wine Trail<br />
HEIC Dining under a pergola of<br />
vines at Wairau River.<br />
Wairau River<br />
Wairau River’s light, spacious<br />
restaurant and tasting room in<br />
a mud brick building with wide<br />
Australian style verandas, is a<br />
busy lunch destination on the<br />
Golden Mile cycle trail.<br />
With some of the oldest<br />
vineyards in Marlborough, the<br />
Rose family produces a range<br />
of fresh, vibrant, well-priced<br />
varietals in its estate range and<br />
stylish reserve wines from small,<br />
interesting parcels of fruit from<br />
their vineyards spread around<br />
the Wairau Valley.<br />
Their zesty sauvignon blanc<br />
is exemplary, as are pinot gris,<br />
chardonnay and rosé, but<br />
there are also some interesting<br />
rarer varieties to explore such<br />
as the exciting fresh grüner<br />
veltliner, the textural albariño; a<br />
deliciously fragrant but restrained<br />
gewürztraminer; a rich, orangezesty<br />
viognier, and a peppery<br />
syrah. The 2019 estate pinot noir<br />
is typically fragrant with hints<br />
of omega plums and savoury<br />
undertones.<br />
They aim to overdeliver, says<br />
CEO Lindsay Parkinson, one of<br />
the founder Phil and Chris Rose’s<br />
sons-in-law, and I’d have to agree<br />
that they do.<br />
wairauriverwines.com<br />
Nautilus Estate<br />
Nautilus cellar door.<br />
Nautilus is known for its refined<br />
methode traditionelle sparking<br />
wines and impeccable varietal<br />
wines.<br />
The vintage rosé 2016 is<br />
fragrant with hints of strawberries,<br />
elegant and crisply dry, while the<br />
non-vintage brut hints of honey<br />
and brioche.<br />
Their still wines are fragrant,<br />
precise, oozing fruit but with<br />
texture and lovely balance. Try<br />
the satisfying sauvignon blanc,<br />
rich pinot gris, and complex<br />
chardonnay, but don’t miss<br />
the delicious, albariño hinting<br />
of stonefruit and melon or the<br />
intense grüner veltliner with<br />
suggestions of fennel and green<br />
fruits.<br />
The Southern Valleys 2016<br />
pinot noir is beautifully mature,<br />
perfumed, spicy, silky with<br />
undertones of plums and dusty<br />
fine grained tannins on the<br />
finish, but compare it with the<br />
limited release pinots, the darker,<br />
almost dried-fruit character of the<br />
textural 2016 Clay Hills pinot and<br />
the more powerful, savoury 2016<br />
Awatere pinot.<br />
Nautilus’s simple tasting room<br />
with the barrel cellar visible<br />
through a window offers platters<br />
and outside tables.<br />
nautilusestate.com<br />
Rock Ferry Wines<br />
With a brand new tasting<br />
room showcasing its organic<br />
wines and its popular restaurant<br />
reopening next summer, Rock<br />
Ferry is one of the key cellar<br />
doors to visit.<br />
Tom and Fiona Hutchison<br />
planted their two Marlborough<br />
vineyards some 25 years ago,<br />
along with one in Bendigo,<br />
Central Otago at Trig Hill. Now<br />
Rock Ferry’s new tasting room next<br />
to its popular summer restaurant.<br />
they make their 3rd Rock estate<br />
wines, a series of single vineyard<br />
wines, and sparkling wine.<br />
My picks to taste: a fresh<br />
elegant nutty sparkling blanc de<br />
blanc; a crisp, dry, textural pinot<br />
blanc unusual in Marlborough;<br />
the Corners Vineyard 2014<br />
sauvignon blanc, gloriously<br />
fresh, with all the charm you<br />
expect from good sauvignon<br />
but with subtle oak - one of<br />
the”alternative” barrel fermented<br />
sauvignons that is enhanced<br />
rather than dominated by the<br />
oak. In marked contrast to the<br />
plum characters of Marlborough<br />
pinot noir, the Central Otago<br />
3rd Rock and Trig Hill pinots are<br />
richer, more spicy, cherryish and<br />
powerful. An unusual variety to<br />
try is the Spanish tempranillo also<br />
from Central Otago, soft, juicy,<br />
textural with a very dry finish.<br />
rockferry.co.nz<br />
Tupari<br />
Tupari’s tiny tasting room is in<br />
the ticket office of the former<br />
Seddon railway station in the<br />
Awatere valley about 25 minutes<br />
south over the hill from Blenheim.<br />
Olivia Turnbull Doonan, her family,<br />
and winemaker Glen Thomas<br />
planted their vineyard on the<br />
Turnbull family farm 25k up the<br />
Awatere river.<br />
Their wines are released after<br />
a few years bottle age. When I<br />
called they had a 2016 fragrant<br />
pinot gris, a charming, limy<br />
2016 riesling with a crisp tension<br />
between sweetness and acidity;<br />
and a 2016 sauvignon blanc,<br />
fragrant with suggestions of<br />
passionfruit and mineral which I<br />
found quite charming.<br />
Pink Pukeko rosé is fresh and off<br />
dry, ideal summer drinking.<br />
tupari.co.nz<br />
16<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
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03 574 2889
Feature | Appellation Marlborough<br />
APPELLATION MARLBOROUGH<br />
PROVENANCE FOR OUR MOST CELEBRATED WINE<br />
By Martin Gillion<br />
One of the<br />
biggest<br />
differences<br />
between the<br />
‘Old World’ wine<br />
producers of<br />
France, Italy, Spain and Germany,<br />
and we of the ‘New World’, `is the<br />
degree to which their industry is<br />
regulated.<br />
In France, vintners have to<br />
work within the parameters<br />
determined by their local<br />
commune or appellation. They<br />
may be restricted in the grape<br />
varieties they are allowed to<br />
grow, the time of harvest, the<br />
yields they are permitted and<br />
many more detailed rules and<br />
regulations.<br />
But strangely to our eyes, it is<br />
the commune and place that<br />
brands the wine and the varieties<br />
are seldom identified.<br />
So no planting Grüner Veltliner<br />
in Burgundy, nor Chianti in<br />
Bordeaux! And certainly no<br />
cropping of Sauvignon Blanc<br />
in the Loire Valley’s Sancerre at<br />
anything like the volumes some<br />
of our more prodigious vintners<br />
allow.<br />
It’s complicated for the casual<br />
wine buyer, but if you have got<br />
to terms with the individual<br />
commune requirements, you<br />
can rest assured that any wine<br />
labelled as Chablis will have met<br />
certain criteria of both place and<br />
production. If it is nominated as a<br />
Chablis Grand Cru, the controls<br />
determined by the Appellation<br />
D’origine Contrôlée<br />
will have been more restrictive.<br />
In the ‘New World’ we have<br />
enthusiastically embraced the<br />
freedom to do as we please.<br />
We can plant Müller Thürgau<br />
in Otago, if we really want to,<br />
and we can crop it at any level<br />
we wish. The only regulations<br />
apply to public health and<br />
wine making faults although<br />
the introduction of Geographic<br />
Ivan Sutherland,<br />
Appellation Chairperson<br />
Indicators has meant that some<br />
grape growing regions have<br />
been defined and thus the use<br />
of their title on a bottle is legally<br />
determined.<br />
But by and large it’s a situation<br />
that has suited our independent,<br />
pioneering heritage.<br />
However, it has disadvantages<br />
and risks. Disadvantages concern<br />
the perceived provenance of our<br />
wines and the risks come with the<br />
dilution of both the product and<br />
the reputation of our industry.<br />
In other countries fraud is also<br />
a problem. It is rumoured that in<br />
some countries, an empty bottle<br />
of a prestige wine, from a good<br />
vintage, is worth serious money!<br />
Over recent times, there has<br />
been increasing interest in the<br />
provenance of what we eat<br />
and drink. We demand that<br />
Canterbury lamb comes from<br />
Canterbury, that Hawke’s Bay<br />
apples are grown in the ‘Bay’ and<br />
that Marlborough wines come<br />
from the region in question.<br />
It’s a process that has been<br />
bolstered by our adoption of<br />
Geographic Indicators for many<br />
New Zealand wine regions.<br />
Marlborough is one of the most<br />
important.<br />
While that helps the<br />
Marlborough brand and certifies<br />
that the fruit is sourced from<br />
Marlborough, it does not provide<br />
any measure of quality.<br />
Nearly 50% of the region’s<br />
output is in bulk, often<br />
transported in bladders the size<br />
of a shipping container.<br />
As Ivan Sutherland,<br />
Chairperson of Appellation<br />
Marlborough, comments, “We’re<br />
not anti-bulk shipping perse.<br />
But once wine leaves the<br />
country in this manner there is<br />
no control. It may well be dilute<br />
wine from overcropped vineyards<br />
that nevertheless bears the<br />
18<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Appellation Marlborough | Feature<br />
Wine brand labels carry the Appellation Marlborough logo<br />
Marlborough brand or it could<br />
even be blended with non New<br />
Zealand wine on arrival but still<br />
marketed with the Marlborough<br />
label,”<br />
The Appellation Marlborough<br />
has devised some simple<br />
measures that would ensure<br />
the provenance and quality of<br />
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc,<br />
while not restricting the ability<br />
of other vintners to do as they<br />
please.<br />
THE DETAILS<br />
☛ Appellation Marlborough is<br />
an Incorporated Society with<br />
over 50 members who are<br />
now entitled to use the trade<br />
marked bottle sticker/logo on<br />
wines that fit the criteria.<br />
☛ Wines must be of Sauvignon<br />
Blanc from vineyards<br />
located 100% within the GI of<br />
Marlborough.<br />
☛ Wines must come from<br />
sustainable, certifiably<br />
managed vineyards.<br />
☛ Wines must be bottled in New<br />
Zealand.<br />
☛ Wines must fit the yield<br />
restrictions and parameters<br />
set by the committee each<br />
year according to the nature<br />
of the vintage.<br />
Note:<br />
☛ The Society is funded by<br />
the members together with<br />
revenue from a small charge<br />
for use of the logo on bottles.<br />
☛ While ‘Wine Marlborough’ is in<br />
general support of the move it<br />
has overarching responsibility<br />
for ALL Marlborough<br />
winemakers so is not directly<br />
involved.<br />
☛ The cropping parameters will<br />
be decided by the committee<br />
and any member can ask for<br />
their wines to be tested and<br />
tasted if this is in dispute.<br />
Ivan points out that their end<br />
game is consumer recognition.<br />
“We’ve already enacted publicity<br />
campaigns in all our major<br />
markets and the response<br />
from our distributors, both local<br />
and offshore, has been very<br />
encouraging.”<br />
John Buchanan (Treasurer)<br />
comments that many of our<br />
wine brands and regions need<br />
tighter controls. “At the moment<br />
Appellation Marlborough is<br />
concerned with the production<br />
of one grape variety in one<br />
geographic destination. But there<br />
is the opportunity to start looking<br />
at other areas and other varieties<br />
within the New Zealand industry.”<br />
Ivan sums up the feelings of the<br />
group. “The proposal has been<br />
under discussion for many years.<br />
The time to do it is now!”<br />
The registered society has more<br />
than 50 members and includes<br />
many of the iconic names<br />
associated with Marlborough<br />
over the years.<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
19
Feature | Méthode Marlborough<br />
Méthode<br />
Marlborough<br />
By Martin Gillion<br />
In a similar vein<br />
to Appellation<br />
Marlborough,<br />
some 9 years<br />
ago, a number<br />
of Marlborough’s<br />
sparkling wine<br />
makers formed<br />
‘Méthode<br />
Marlborough’<br />
a registered<br />
society that<br />
aimed to protect<br />
the provenance<br />
and production<br />
of Marlborough<br />
wines made in<br />
the tradition of<br />
Chmpagne.<br />
Presently there is little<br />
that differentiates the<br />
various methods and<br />
processes regarding<br />
Marlborough sparkling<br />
wine, despite the<br />
region being by far the country’s<br />
largest regional producer in this<br />
category.<br />
Marlborough sparkling ranges<br />
from wines, many of them made<br />
from Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot<br />
Gris, where CO2 bubbles are<br />
gas infused, to those made<br />
by the Charmat method<br />
where secondary fermentation<br />
takes place in a pressurised<br />
stainless steel tank (think<br />
Lindauer and others), to<br />
wines made adhering<br />
to the traditions and<br />
processes of Champagne;<br />
processes that have been<br />
championed for more<br />
than forty vintages by<br />
Champagne-born Daniel le<br />
Brun of No1 Family Estate.<br />
More than a dozen<br />
quality producers have<br />
joined forces under<br />
the auspices of the<br />
Sociey to reassure the<br />
consumer that the<br />
Méthode wines they<br />
are buying follow<br />
the Champagne<br />
traditions.<br />
The society has<br />
now developed<br />
a ‘Méthode<br />
Marlborough’<br />
certification mark<br />
for bottle labels<br />
and already<br />
some producers<br />
are proudly<br />
proclaiming<br />
their ‘Méthode<br />
Marlborough’<br />
provenance on<br />
their front label<br />
branding.<br />
The rules:<br />
The Méthode Marlborough logo<br />
determines that…<br />
☛ The wines are made from<br />
the ‘classic’ Champagne<br />
varieties.<br />
☛ All fruit for the wine has come<br />
from Marlborough.<br />
☛ The wine has been processed<br />
and bottled in Marlborough.<br />
☛ The wines must have been<br />
aged on lees for a minimum<br />
of 18 months.<br />
Stop press:<br />
Méthode Marlborough Day<br />
– March 26th<br />
Méthode Marlborough<br />
has nominated this<br />
weekend as an annual<br />
recognition of the group’s<br />
wines and tells us that this<br />
year they will celebrate<br />
their foundation with<br />
an evening event; ‘An<br />
Evening With Méthode<br />
Marlborough’.It<br />
will be a ticketed,<br />
twilight, ‘progressive<br />
affair’ held at three<br />
locations where live<br />
entertainment a<br />
continuous wine<br />
and food service<br />
will accompany<br />
tastings of the<br />
best of the group’s<br />
sparkling wines.<br />
“It’s a bespoke<br />
evening not to<br />
be missed,” says<br />
Elena Vincent of<br />
No 1 Family Estate.<br />
“And the day<br />
will become a<br />
regular feature of<br />
Marlborough’s wine<br />
calendar.”<br />
20<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Methode Marlborough | Feature<br />
An Evening with<br />
Methode<br />
Marlborough<br />
The event had sold out and was a great evening. The<br />
format of visiting 3 locations and tasting four methode<br />
Marlborough wines at each was well received and the<br />
guests were a great mix of ages.<br />
HEARTS IN<br />
MARLBOROUGH<br />
since 1980<br />
ROOTS IN<br />
CHAMPAGNE<br />
since 1684<br />
NEW ZEALAND’S MÉTHODE<br />
TRADITIONELLE SPECIALIST<br />
21<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
No1FamilyEstate.co.nz
Sydney International Wine Competition<br />
announces return in <strong>2021</strong> with New Zealand<br />
wines and judges participating<br />
The Sydney International<br />
Wine Competition<br />
will return this year,<br />
after a hiatus in 2020,<br />
with entries being<br />
accepted from 12 July,<br />
and judging to take place in<br />
late October. Provisional award<br />
and trophy winners will be<br />
announced on 8 November <strong>2021</strong>.<br />
While the uncertainty of<br />
international borders precludes<br />
the appointment of judges<br />
from further afield, the <strong>2021</strong><br />
Competition will have a panel of<br />
13 highly credentialed judges,<br />
including four Masters of Wine,<br />
from Australia and New Zealand,<br />
chaired once again by Warren<br />
Gibson.<br />
Wines will be invited from<br />
across the globe, with entries<br />
capped at 2000, and – as is the<br />
stand-out difference with the<br />
Sydney International – the final<br />
400 wines will be set aside for<br />
re-judging with appropriate food,<br />
leading to about 250 wines being<br />
awarded Top 100, Blue Gold<br />
and Gold medals, along with 25<br />
trophies.<br />
In past years, up to 12 countries<br />
have been represented, featuring<br />
most of the major wine producers<br />
as well as smaller producers such<br />
as Georgia and Turkey.<br />
With no minimum production<br />
requirements, this show is<br />
particularly applicable to<br />
experimental and small makers<br />
to test their wines alongside<br />
wines from major producers.<br />
The Sydney International<br />
Wine Competition is the<br />
only international wine show<br />
that judges all its finalists in<br />
combination with suitable<br />
food dishes, to ensure that<br />
medal-winning wines are both<br />
technically excellent and relevant<br />
for consumers.<br />
Medal and trophy winners<br />
are featured on the website<br />
alongside judges’ comments<br />
and the dishes they were<br />
matched with.<br />
Full details of the competition’s<br />
<strong>2021</strong> schedule can be found<br />
at sydneywinecomp.com<br />
which contains full details of<br />
the judging criteria and judges’<br />
comments on all award winners<br />
from the previous competition.<br />
Co-convenor of the Sydney<br />
International Wine Competition,<br />
Brett Ling, said that given the<br />
difficulties faced by the wine<br />
industry over the past year, it<br />
was important for competitions<br />
such as the Sydney International<br />
to proceed to highlight to<br />
consumers the exceptional<br />
range of food-friendly wines<br />
available to be enjoyed at<br />
restaurants and at home.<br />
Bringing world class wines<br />
to the world since 1982.<br />
603 Rapaura Road, Blenheim, New Zealand<br />
Open Wednesday-Friday 9.30am – 5.30pm<br />
Hunters.co.nz @hunterswinesnz
Wine & Time The<br />
latest from New Zealand wine world<br />
Giesen Group launches<br />
New Zealand's first<br />
fruit wine seltzer<br />
Family-owned New Zealand<br />
company Giesen Group is<br />
positioning itself to claim a share<br />
of the world’s fastest growing<br />
liquor category with the launch<br />
of TINK - New Zealand’s first<br />
natural fruit wine seltzer.<br />
Made at Giesen’s Marlborough<br />
winery, creating TINK involves<br />
an innovative process of<br />
fermenting wine and natural fruit<br />
juice together, creating a light,<br />
refreshing sparkling seltzer.<br />
Giesen Group Marketing<br />
Manager Angela Flynn says<br />
TINK’s development began when<br />
looking at overseas market<br />
trends.<br />
“We kept a close eye on the<br />
growth of the seltzer category in<br />
the US and Australia and we had<br />
a sense that 2020/<strong>2021</strong> would<br />
be the ‘summer of seltzer’ in New<br />
Zealand. All the signs are there<br />
that it will be.”<br />
Globally, seltzer’s popularity has<br />
exploded in the past year. The<br />
sector is now worth over $2.1<br />
billion and expected to grow to<br />
$20.4 billion by 2027.<br />
TINK is Giesen’s first product<br />
outside of wine and beer. It<br />
is sold in 330ml cans in three<br />
flavours (Tropical, Berry Rose and<br />
Lemon & Lime).<br />
Angela Flynn says that while<br />
seltzer is new to New Zealand,<br />
its popularity will take off with<br />
consumers increasingly focused<br />
on their health and wellbeing –<br />
even when it comes to alcohol.<br />
“TINK is another example of<br />
Giesen spreading its wings<br />
and innovating to develop<br />
new products that align with<br />
growing trends for more mindful<br />
and moderate consumption<br />
– a future cornerstone of our<br />
business. TINK is<br />
low sugar, low<br />
carb, low calorie,<br />
gluten free with no<br />
added flavours – all<br />
attributes we know<br />
will appeal to New<br />
Zealanders.”<br />
Angela Flynn says<br />
the drive to wellness<br />
is also reflected in the popularity<br />
of Giesen 0% -Marlborough<br />
Sauvignon Blanc that launched<br />
in February 2020.<br />
“Our alcohol-removed<br />
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc<br />
was a world first product and<br />
sold out on launch in both New<br />
Zealand and Australia. In fact,<br />
we had so much demand for<br />
our pre-orders that it completely<br />
outstripped supply.”<br />
Giesen is confident TINK will be<br />
equally popular.<br />
WINE MONSTERED<br />
RIGHT TO YOUR DOOR<br />
Introducing Wine Monster, your new favourite<br />
wine delivery service that brings the NZ Winery<br />
Tour straight to your front door all year round.<br />
The concept is simple - choose from whites,<br />
reds or mixed and each month six carefully<br />
selected bottles of wine from a featured NZ<br />
winery will be delivered to your place including<br />
tasting notes, food pairing suggestions and the<br />
winery's story as told by them.<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
23
Wine & Time<br />
Innovative digital solution launches to help<br />
wineries expand premium<br />
quality export sales<br />
From February, New<br />
Zealand wine<br />
producers will have<br />
access to a highly<br />
innovative online wine<br />
marketplace, Wine<br />
Collective Direct, to sell their<br />
premium wine direct to overseas<br />
consumers.<br />
A New Zealand-first, Wine<br />
Collective Direct provides a<br />
highly profitable sales channel<br />
for producers, enabling seamless<br />
Direct to International Consumer<br />
(DTiC) sales to support the<br />
prosperity of the New Zealand<br />
wine industry.<br />
Wine Collective Direct will<br />
support local wine producers<br />
in achieving profitability in<br />
historically difficult premium and<br />
ultra-premium market segments.<br />
Wine Collective Direct Founder<br />
Grant Rimmer says the digital<br />
solution – designed to help<br />
New Zealand wine producers<br />
reach, connect and transact<br />
directly with global consumers<br />
– comes amid the increase of<br />
online shopping in the alcohol<br />
category.<br />
“We’re delighted to be<br />
announcing this exciting<br />
development for the New<br />
Zealand wine industry at a<br />
critical time. In recent years,<br />
producers across New Zealand<br />
have invested heavily in wine<br />
tourism to reach high-end<br />
international consumers with<br />
a thirst for rare and limited<br />
production wines.”<br />
In 2019, NZ Winegrowers reported<br />
that 776, 599 international wine<br />
tourists visited New Zealand and<br />
spent $3.26 billion.<br />
However, COVID-19 has<br />
presented challenges to<br />
approximately 300 producers<br />
in New Zealand, impacted by a<br />
decline in international visitors<br />
that would traditionally visit for<br />
tastings, tours and Cellar Door<br />
purchases.<br />
“On the cusp of what was set<br />
to be a record year for wine<br />
tourism including a massive<br />
boost from the America’s Cup,<br />
New Zealand producers are<br />
now also heavily exposed by the<br />
void of international visitors,” says<br />
Rimmer.<br />
“Wine Collective Direct will<br />
exponentially extend their reach,<br />
helping them achieve high-return<br />
retail export sales within premium<br />
and ultra-premium market<br />
segments. Acting collectively, we<br />
are stronger, and will go further<br />
globally together.”<br />
New Zealand wine producers<br />
are invited to register to the DTiC<br />
marketplace in February <strong>2021</strong><br />
before it begins rolling out to<br />
international consumers.<br />
The initial market launch at<br />
the end of March will include<br />
Australia and Hong Kong,<br />
where the average direct to<br />
consumer bottle price (750ml)<br />
is NZD $49.23 and NZD $59.60,<br />
respectively (source: nzwinehome<br />
FY March 20). According to the<br />
latest New Zealand Winegrowers<br />
KPIs, the average export price<br />
of bulk wine is NZD$4.03/L and<br />
packaged wine is NZD $8.75/L,<br />
respectively.<br />
Following the launch in the<br />
Australian and Hong Kong<br />
markets, Wine Collective Direct<br />
will then roll out to the UK and<br />
USA as well as additional global<br />
locations.<br />
“International online wine sales<br />
have added export and import<br />
compliance complexities that<br />
require a specialist approach to<br />
achieve high sales conversions,”<br />
says Rimmer. “Off-the-shelf<br />
ecommerce platforms cannot<br />
handle the intricacies involved<br />
with the global export of an<br />
alcoholic beverage. Currently<br />
only a handful of New Zealand<br />
producers offer fully enabled<br />
international ecommerce.”<br />
Wine Collective Direct is powered<br />
by the direct to consumer<br />
export business that hundreds<br />
of local wine producers already<br />
know and trust, nzwinehome.<br />
nzwinehome’s specialised<br />
cross border compliance<br />
and dynamic direct-to-door<br />
distribution ensures Wine<br />
Collective Direct delivers<br />
producers and international<br />
consumers a genuine end-toend<br />
market solution.<br />
24 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Wine & Time<br />
“The need for our market solution<br />
has existed for some time and<br />
will provide long lasting value<br />
into the future. 2020 created<br />
the urgency for decisive action<br />
and rapid development to help<br />
producers achieve their rightful<br />
share of market prosperity,” says<br />
Rimmer.<br />
Each wine producer who lists<br />
their wines on Wine Collective<br />
Direct will have their own<br />
branded e-cellar door (microsite)<br />
within www.winecollective.direct<br />
which reflects their individuality<br />
and brand personality.<br />
In addition, producers will benefit<br />
from the seamless technology<br />
of Wine Collective Direct’s<br />
e-commerce platform, supported<br />
by tailored digital marketing<br />
support and resources. "Wine<br />
Collective Direct is more than<br />
just a marketplace, it's also a<br />
marketing place," says Grant.<br />
Wine Collective Direct provides a<br />
uniquely transparent shopping<br />
experience – all bottle prices<br />
listed on the website are totally<br />
inclusive of tax/duty insurance,<br />
duty, packaging and door-todoor<br />
delivery – in the customer’s<br />
preferred currency, resulting in no<br />
surprises at checkout.<br />
There is a subscription fee of<br />
$39.95/month for wine producers<br />
to be included on the platform<br />
– less than the average price of<br />
a bottle of premium wine. Wine<br />
producers will determine their full<br />
share of the sales margin and<br />
can adjust and set their pricing<br />
when they log in to the site.<br />
“We can’t wait to roll this out<br />
nationwide and help New<br />
Zealand wine producers achieve<br />
boundless growth via one<br />
platform,” says Rimmer.<br />
In February and March, a series<br />
of launch events will be taking<br />
place in Central Otago, Hawke’s<br />
Bay, Marlborough and on<br />
Waiheke Island for New Zealand<br />
wine producers to learn more<br />
about how Wine Collective Direct<br />
will help them grow. To attend,<br />
or sign up for an informational<br />
webinar, please email hello@<br />
wc.direct or RSVP via www.<br />
winecollective.direct/tradelaunch-events.<br />
Nothing to wine about<br />
Virtual Jeff delivers real world expertise online<br />
Auckland, New Zealand, 3 March<br />
<strong>2021</strong> — Selecting the right wine,<br />
beer or spirit when shopping<br />
online, just became a whole lot<br />
easier with the official launch of<br />
Virtual Jeff on Fine Wine Delivery’s<br />
web site.<br />
Virtual Jeff is a digital human<br />
replica of Fine Wine Delivery<br />
founder and CEO Jeff Poole,<br />
created by Auckland<br />
company Replikr.<br />
“We’ve always tried<br />
to be at the forefront<br />
of evaluating wine for<br />
our customers. Virtual<br />
Jeff helps make the<br />
online experience as<br />
good as shopping at<br />
one of our stores,” says<br />
Poole.<br />
Poole says there are<br />
over 2,000 tasting<br />
notes that staff can call on to<br />
help customers in store get the<br />
perfect wine, beer or spirit.<br />
“Since we first opened in 1997,<br />
we have always had a policy<br />
of professionally tasting every<br />
wine, craft beer and fine spirit we<br />
sell, to evaluate for both quality<br />
and value for money. If it doesn’t<br />
meet our standards, then we<br />
won’t sell it. We also write our own<br />
descriptive tasting notes so the<br />
knowledge is captured and can<br />
be shared with our customers.”<br />
“Our challenge was to find a way<br />
to deliver that same expertise<br />
and experience in a natural<br />
way for our online customers.<br />
And ironically, the need for that<br />
capability was suddenly made<br />
abundantly clear last year during<br />
the first COVID-19 lockdown.”<br />
“What we didn’t want was a<br />
simple chat bot with an FAQ<br />
(frequently asked questions).<br />
It had to be our experience<br />
delivered online in a manner<br />
that our customers would enjoy<br />
and find genuinely useful, not a<br />
gimmick that would fade in just a<br />
few weeks,” says Poole.<br />
Dr Peter Catt, managing director<br />
of Replikr, says developing the<br />
conversational skill sets while<br />
incorporating the specialised<br />
knowledge of the Fine Wine<br />
Delivery team made for an<br />
exciting project, but the use of<br />
IBM Watson Assistant simplified<br />
the process.<br />
“It’s easy today to create simple<br />
chatbots that can answer easy<br />
questions, but Virtual Jeff is<br />
an order of magnitude more<br />
sophisticated. He is guiding<br />
people based on their answers.<br />
And if there’s a specialised term<br />
used, such as “oaky”, he is able<br />
to explain those terms to help<br />
customers better refine their<br />
choices,” says Catt.<br />
Poole says Virtual Jeff has<br />
changed how customers shop<br />
online and in-store.<br />
“Since the soft launch of Virtual<br />
Jeff late last year, there’s been<br />
a noticeable shift away from<br />
buying based on the specials for<br />
the week and a swing towards<br />
buying what customers have<br />
learnt they enjoy most,” says<br />
Poole.<br />
Virtual Jeff is doing such a great<br />
job of helping online customers<br />
learn about their own tastes<br />
and preferences, that Poole now<br />
wants him to work in the stores.<br />
“We are now working with Replikr<br />
to integrate Virtual Jeff into more<br />
of our services, both online and<br />
instore, where he can continue to<br />
enrich the customer experience<br />
and learning, in what is a<br />
complex and personal decisionmaking<br />
process,” says Poole.<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
25
Wine & Time<br />
Tokar Estate<br />
A chance encounter in 1995,<br />
right in the heart of Victoria’s<br />
cool climate wine country,<br />
led to the beginning of the<br />
dream that is Tokar Estate.<br />
Tokar Estate’s vineyard lies<br />
on the gentle north-facing<br />
slope that runs from the<br />
Maroondah Highway to the<br />
foot of the Coldstream Hills,<br />
surrounded by acclaimed<br />
producers like Yarra Yering<br />
and Coldstream Hills winery. It<br />
has just 30 acres under vine,<br />
including Pinot Noir (12.6<br />
acres), Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(5.94 acres), Tempranillo (4.4<br />
acres), Shiraz (4 acres), and<br />
Chardonnay (2 acres).<br />
With a new look, the modern<br />
winery continues to inspire<br />
and excite 25 years on, with<br />
Daniel Tokar at the helm of<br />
steering the ship his parents<br />
– Rita and Leon built from the<br />
ground up.<br />
Villa Maria Estate Pursues U.S. Market Growth<br />
with New Winebow Imports Partnership<br />
March 15, <strong>2021</strong> – Iconic<br />
New Zealand winery, Villa<br />
Maria Estate is delighted to<br />
announce Winebow Imports<br />
as its new exclusive import<br />
representative in the United<br />
States.<br />
Villa Maria has a vision to<br />
be one of the world’s great<br />
wine companies and the<br />
partnership with Winebow<br />
Imports further supports the<br />
company’s global growth<br />
strategy.<br />
“Following a rigorous<br />
selection process, we are<br />
thrilled to partner with the<br />
Winebow Imports team,” said<br />
Matthew Deller MW, Villa<br />
Maria’s Chief Global Sales<br />
and Marketing Officer. “Their<br />
knowledge, enthusiasm,<br />
and professionalism are<br />
unparalleled, making them<br />
perfectly positioned to realise<br />
Villa Maria’s full potential in<br />
the U.S.”<br />
Winebow is a recognised<br />
leader in the U.S. wine<br />
industry and has extensive<br />
experience working with wine<br />
brands that are dedicated to<br />
unique regions.<br />
“We are honored to partner<br />
with Villa Maria Estate.<br />
Their well-documented<br />
achievements and category<br />
leadership have earned<br />
them an outstanding<br />
reputation as pioneers in<br />
New Zealand wine,” said<br />
Ian Downey, Executive Vice<br />
President of Winebow Imports.<br />
“Villa Maria’s guiding<br />
principles are always<br />
pointing toward positive<br />
change. Their longstanding<br />
commitment to the<br />
relationship between<br />
responsible stewardship,<br />
community, and quality,<br />
resonates strongly in today’s<br />
market. We look forward<br />
to growing this renowned<br />
brand.”<br />
Villa Maria is the number<br />
one NZ brand in the UK, New<br />
Zealand’s largest market by<br />
volume. Despite that success,<br />
the company has historically<br />
under-indexed in the U.S.<br />
market, this country’s largest<br />
market by value. The shift<br />
to Winebow Imports is part<br />
of the Villa Maria’s overall<br />
strategy to reach its potential<br />
in the U.S.<br />
Winebow Imports will<br />
relaunch Villa Maria<br />
throughout the U.S. this<br />
month with a coordinated<br />
sales and marketing program<br />
to generate excitement<br />
and build awareness<br />
throughout the country. This<br />
will be closely followed by<br />
the launch of Villa Maria<br />
EarthGarden, a 100% Biogro<br />
certified organic range.<br />
26 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
New Product Releases<br />
T A Y L O R S E S T A T E<br />
Turn to an Aussie classic<br />
2018 Estate Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon<br />
Clare Valley<br />
2018 Estate Shiraz<br />
Clare Valley<br />
Estate Pinot Noir<br />
Chardonnay Brut Cuvée NV<br />
Clare Valley<br />
Estate Pinot Noir<br />
Rosé 2020<br />
Clare Valley<br />
The fruit for our classic<br />
cabernet is harvested<br />
from the family estate<br />
in the Clare Valley from<br />
a combination of the<br />
Loddon, Wakefield,<br />
and Angela blocks.<br />
For the 2018 vintage<br />
the winemakers<br />
experimented with<br />
extended skin contact<br />
with 8% of the blend<br />
remaining on skins<br />
under controlled<br />
conditions for 10<br />
months. The aim was<br />
to enrich the colour<br />
and tannin levels to<br />
strengthen the varietal<br />
expression. In doing<br />
so the richness, fruit<br />
concentration, texture<br />
and mouthfeel was<br />
extracted naturally with<br />
the results of this large<br />
scale experiment much<br />
to the winemakers’<br />
delight.<br />
Alcohol: 14.5%<br />
Acid: 6.26g/L<br />
pH: 3.60<br />
Residual Sugar: 0.60 g/L<br />
This estate grown fruit<br />
was harvested and<br />
quickly transferred to<br />
the winery for<br />
destemming. Primary<br />
fermentation was<br />
carried out in stainless<br />
steel fermenters prior<br />
to using a pneumatic<br />
bag press where the<br />
pressings were later<br />
returned to the fruit to<br />
add weight and texture.<br />
The wine was then<br />
transferred to American<br />
oak barrels for<br />
secondary malolactic<br />
fermentation for 12<br />
months followed by<br />
fining, minimal filtration<br />
& bottling.<br />
Alcohol: 14.5%<br />
Acid: 6.29g/L<br />
pH: 3.60<br />
Residual Sugar: 0.50 g/L<br />
Made from select<br />
parcels of Pinot Noir<br />
and Chardonnay from<br />
across various vintages<br />
with the final blend<br />
having slightly more<br />
Pinot than Chardonnay.<br />
Taylors Chief Winemaker,<br />
Adam Eggins, opts<br />
for including Pinot<br />
Noir with greater<br />
maturity as it delivers<br />
more complexity and<br />
texture to a sparkling<br />
wine assemblage.<br />
Adam earnt his stripes<br />
after working with<br />
Louis Roederer and<br />
Heemskerk as part of<br />
the Jansz project in<br />
Pipers Brook, Tasmania.<br />
Alcohol: 12.5%<br />
Acid: 6.50g/L<br />
pH: 3.25<br />
Residual Sugar: 0.3 g/L<br />
The fruit for this wine<br />
was sourced from our<br />
grower partner in the<br />
Adelaide Hills. It was<br />
harvested in the cool of<br />
the night and quickly<br />
transferred to the winery<br />
using specialist grape<br />
bins that ensure any<br />
free run juice is kept<br />
separate from skins. Any<br />
free run juice extracted<br />
from whole berry<br />
pressing was transferred<br />
directly to stainless<br />
steel refrigerated tanks<br />
and was left clarify<br />
naturally. The remaining<br />
fruit was then very<br />
gently pressed, and the<br />
blush coloured juice<br />
transferred to stainless<br />
steel tanks. Both parcels<br />
then underwent a cool<br />
primary fermentation<br />
at between 12 and<br />
14 degrees to retain<br />
freshness. The wine was<br />
then fined, filtered, and<br />
bottled.<br />
Alcohol: 13%<br />
Acid: 5.59g/L<br />
pH: 3.30<br />
Residual Sugar: 2.30 g/L<br />
Tas<br />
Gro<br />
clim<br />
exp<br />
bala<br />
The<br />
com<br />
min<br />
and<br />
Foo<br />
Fish<br />
cho<br />
flavo<br />
com<br />
cha<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
27
Supporting New Zealand wine<br />
growing from the ground up<br />
Become part of New Zealand’s centre for wine education<br />
and research<br />
The Marlborough Wine Research Centre resides in New Zealand’s largest wine<br />
growing area. Local wine producers, winegrowers, key industry players and NMIT<br />
Marlborough have come together to create the country’s centre for winemaking<br />
and viticulture.<br />
NMIT Marlborough offers an on-site research vineyard, wine sensory room, two<br />
laboratories, technology transfer theatre and micro-vinification unit, providing our<br />
viticulture and winemaking students with a world-class learning environment and<br />
opportunities to connect with all facets of the Marlborough Wine Research Centre.<br />
On-going collaborations with on-site industry partners including the Bragato<br />
Research Institute (BRI), Marlborough Research Centre (MRC), Wine Marlborough<br />
and Plant and Food Research ensure NMIT viticulture and winemaking<br />
programmes remain on the cutting edge of industry research.<br />
Developed in consultation with key industry players, NMIT Viticulture and<br />
Winemaking programmes are tailored to the needs of the wine industry. These can<br />
be delivered at the workplace, online or at the Marlborough Campus.<br />
Programmes include:<br />
> New Zealand Certificate in Primary Industry Skills (Level 2), designed to help<br />
students gain practical skills and knowledge for entry level roles in the<br />
viticulture industry.<br />
> New Zealand Certificate in Cellar Operations (Level 3) teaches the hands-on<br />
basics of winemaking and finishing procedures during a winery harvest while<br />
Level 4 students further develop these skills on placement.<br />
> New Zealand Certificate in Horticulture Production (Fruit Production) Viticulture<br />
(Level 4) provides viticulture industry-based individuals with the skills and<br />
knowledge to supervise winegrowing operations.<br />
> The three-year Bachelor of Viticulture and Winemaking (Level 7) is available to<br />
students interested in a more in-depth understanding of wine and viticulture and<br />
can be studied on-campus or online nationwide.<br />
Touch base with us today to discuss upskilling your team<br />
with one of our tailor-made courses or programmes.<br />
nmit.ac.nz/winegrowers-hub<br />
> Primary Industries (Level 2)<br />
with Viticulture strand<br />
> New Zealand Certificate<br />
in Cellar Operations<br />
(Level 3)<br />
ONLINE<br />
> New Zealand Certificate<br />
in Cellar Operations<br />
(Level 4)<br />
> New Zealand Certificate<br />
in New Zealand Certificate<br />
in Horticulture Production<br />
(Fruit Production) -<br />
Viticulture (Level 4)<br />
> Bachelor of Viticulture<br />
and Winemaking (Level 7)
Tasting Results | Tastings<br />
OUR BLIND<br />
WINE TASTING<br />
RESULTS<br />
The <strong>WineNZ</strong> guarantee<br />
Our buying<br />
guide<br />
provides you<br />
with trusted,<br />
independent,<br />
expert<br />
recommendation on what to<br />
buy, drink and cellar.<br />
Each panel tasting is judged<br />
by three experienced tasters<br />
chosen for their authority in<br />
the category of wine being<br />
rated. All wines are tasted<br />
blind, and are pre-poured<br />
for judges, in flights of 8 to 10<br />
wines. Our tasters test and<br />
score wines individually but<br />
then discuss their scores<br />
together at the end of each<br />
flight. Any wines on which<br />
scores are markedly different<br />
are retasted; however, judges<br />
are under no obligation to<br />
amend their scores.<br />
The tastings are held in the<br />
controlled environment of EIT<br />
tasting suite: A plain white<br />
room, with natural light and no<br />
noise. We limit the number of<br />
wines tasted to a manageable<br />
level- a maximum of 70 per<br />
day. Allowing judges to taste<br />
more thoroughly and avoid<br />
palate fatigue.<br />
ScORING SySTEm<br />
95-100: Classic<br />
A great wine.<br />
90-94: Outstanding<br />
A wine of superior character<br />
and style.<br />
85-89: Very good<br />
A wine of special qualities.<br />
80-84: A good wine<br />
Solid and well made.<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
29
Tastings | Pinot Gris<br />
Pinot based<br />
wines<br />
The Pinot family is the most<br />
versatile, diverse and mutable<br />
of all in the Vinifera world. Best<br />
known is Pinot Noir and Pinot<br />
Gris, with some Pinot Blanc to<br />
be found in NZ too. Pinot Noir<br />
based Roses and Sparkling wines make<br />
some of the most elegant wines within<br />
their categories across the country.<br />
In the Pinot Noir category it was exciting<br />
to see wines from all of the major regions<br />
of NZ where Pinot Noir is grown. The<br />
diversity, range of styles and increasing<br />
personality in the wines, reflects NZ’s<br />
leading position as perhaps the most<br />
suitable country in the new world (ie<br />
outside of Europe) to grow the variety.<br />
Pinot Gris is made with less ambition<br />
understandably as it’s a less noble<br />
variety but to avoid blandness it needs<br />
to be made in a concentrated style<br />
with fresh acidity. Then flavours in the<br />
attractive pear to passion fruit spectrum<br />
with additional some savoury notes on<br />
top, will come through. The best wines<br />
stood out as wines of clear character<br />
and varietal personality.<br />
Pinot Noir base rose can make the<br />
most elegant rose wines as the elegant<br />
supple berry notes of the variety shine<br />
through. All wines submitted were fresh,<br />
from the 2020 vintage and from diverse<br />
regions across the country. The best<br />
wines showed extra layers of depth and<br />
weight without sacrificing freshness and<br />
varietal character.<br />
$18.95<br />
TASTING<br />
TEAM<br />
TOP<br />
CHOICE<br />
Yealands Reserve<br />
Pinot Gris<br />
Marlborough 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Nice lemon<br />
colour, bright, lively lemon<br />
scented aromatics, not<br />
highly varietal, crisp on entry.<br />
Sound balancing acids,<br />
with lime and citrus notes.<br />
Develops well on the finish.<br />
Barry Riwai: Pale with lemony<br />
hues. Peach and pear with<br />
mealy, yeasty notes held<br />
within a dry structural palate.<br />
Good length, with warmth<br />
and some richness.<br />
Olly Styles: Heather, green<br />
leaf and herbal notes,<br />
rose petal, blossom - all<br />
sorts. Quite light across<br />
the palate despite a good<br />
body, prominent acidity<br />
but finishes well with good<br />
length and interest.<br />
Points: 91<br />
30 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Pinot Gris<br />
Ara Single Estate Pinot Gris<br />
Marlborough 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Pale, fresh looking, nice green pear aromas,<br />
well balanced soft fleshy fruit, off dry, youthful, well made<br />
and looks better a 2 nd time.<br />
Barry Riwai: Super pale, crystal. Clear delicate nose floral<br />
and spicy. Fruit freshness with subtle talcomb perfume<br />
and flavours. Line length and concentration.<br />
Olly Styles: Nice, clean, white fruit and blossom notes. Very<br />
pungent and aromatic. Nice rounded palate, well made.<br />
Points: 90<br />
$21.99<br />
$14<br />
Old Coach Road<br />
by the Seifried Family Pinot Gris 2020<br />
Nelson 2020<br />
Pinot Gris | Tastings<br />
Simon Nash: Gris tinged lemon colour, bright/full, quite<br />
reserved, bready nose, off dry style, supporting acidity,<br />
citrus/lime tinged character. Soft finish.<br />
Barry Riwai: Citrus blossom, crunchy white nectarine on<br />
the nose and palate. The palate is quite restrained, good<br />
freshness and well made.<br />
Olly Styles: Pretty aromas, nice white blossom, hint of<br />
peach. Nice, nervy palate with very high acidity.<br />
Points: 87<br />
Domain Road Vineyards Defiance<br />
Pinot Gris<br />
Central Otago 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Nice lemon colour, bright, hint of nectarine,<br />
suggestion of fruit weight, nice tart on entry, crisp acids,<br />
lime and citrus notes. Sound.<br />
Barry Riwai: Pear drops and candied lime zest, very fine<br />
with tight line of acidity. Fresh morish finish.<br />
Olly Styles: Nice pear, blossom tones, a hint of nut. Nice<br />
palate weight, good acidity.<br />
Points: 87<br />
Zephyr Pinot Gris<br />
Marlborough 2020<br />
Barry Riwai: Yellow fleshed peach and barley water on the<br />
nose, complex roasted stone fruits flow through to<br />
the palate. Some warmth on the finish but a generous<br />
dry style.<br />
Olly Styles: Intruiging nose on this wine which pushes<br />
into nutty, more aged tones. Could this be a stylistic<br />
approach? Still, nice phenolic/acid interplay on the<br />
palate.<br />
Simon Nash: Bright lemon, fresh, hint of sulphur or mineral<br />
with some wet stone notes on the nose, soft entry, not a<br />
clear varietal or fruit character initially, round, citrus finish.<br />
Points: 86<br />
$27<br />
$24<br />
$24.95<br />
Yealands Estate Single Vineyard<br />
Pinot Gris<br />
Marlborough 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Quite full colour, lemon bright, lifted<br />
aromatics, quite full, dry/off dry style, citrus and lime fruit,<br />
quite defined, almost a tad austere . Will develop..<br />
Barry Riwai: Peach, and yeasty meal characters. Rich<br />
palate with an interesting creamyness, full bodied and<br />
dry. Classic ripe dry Pinot Gris, really like the peaches and<br />
cream elements.<br />
Olly Styles: Somewhat neutral, if not quite subtle bouquet<br />
- talcum powder, rose petal, blossom. Nice palate, lithe,<br />
fresh, complex, good phenolic interplay.<br />
Points: 90<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
31
Tastings | Pinot Gris<br />
Esk Valley Pinot Gris<br />
Hawke's Bay 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Full gris tinged, quite bright, soft aromatics,<br />
perfumed even, hint of florals, nice full style, good weight<br />
balancing acids, classic slight lactic note, varietal, quite a<br />
lot going on here.<br />
Barry Riwai: Palest pink tinge also cranberry and musk<br />
notes on the nose. Palate is super ripe golden peach, dry<br />
and full bodied with warmth.<br />
Olly Styles: Quite grapey on the nose! Seems a touch lifted<br />
but with a big palate entry. A textural wine, with phenolics<br />
showing on the finish.<br />
Points: 88<br />
19.99<br />
$17.95<br />
Babydoll Pinot Gris<br />
Marlborough 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Pale, bright, fresh, lively looking, nice lifted,<br />
zesty lemon citrus bouquet, lemon fruit characters on<br />
entry, up front, not especially varietal yet.<br />
Barry Riwai: Cooler expression, lime, lemon thyme couple<br />
with sweet red apple. Firm palate with loads of flavour on<br />
the finish and surpisingly gernerous proportions given the<br />
cooler aromas.<br />
Olly Styles: Pear drop, white fruit, talcum powder – complex<br />
nose. Slips through on the palate.<br />
Points: 86<br />
Terrace Edge Pinot Gris 2020<br />
North Canterbury 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Very full colour, almost heavy lemon, ripe,<br />
melon/peach flesh, quite heavy aromatics, perfumed, soft<br />
on entry, almost rich almond and sweet shortbread, bit<br />
hot on finish.<br />
Barry Riwai: Tropical pineapple aromas flow through to the<br />
palate with mango. Broad midpalate and soft finish make<br />
this a crowd pleaser.<br />
Olly Styles: Very sweet, candied, candyfloss nose. I actually<br />
quite like the candy note which also comes through on<br />
the finish, and the phenolic interplay with the body.<br />
Points: 90<br />
$26<br />
Villa Maria Cellar Selection Pinot Gris<br />
Marlborough 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Full colour, bright, quite broad bready notes,<br />
soft on entry, quite ripe almost fleshy, with nectarine<br />
characters, sound acidity, full style, quite well expressed.<br />
Barry Riwai: Palest pink tinge also cranberry and musk<br />
notes on the nose. Palate is super ripe golden peach, dry<br />
and full bodied with warmth.<br />
Olly Styles: Quite nice pear drop, Vosges sweets, sappy,<br />
resiny, interesting. Nice, broad, palate with a lovely<br />
presence, good intensity and good length. Well made<br />
and nice.<br />
Points: 90<br />
$17.99<br />
$19<br />
Seifried Nelson Pinot Gris 2020<br />
Nelson 2020<br />
Simon Nash: nice lemon colour, bright, fresh, attractive<br />
quite mineral zesty citrus nose, good fruit expression, mid<br />
palate weight, nice phenolics, grip, good texture, v nice<br />
finish.<br />
Barry Riwai: Rose gold hues, sweet spice, cinnamon and<br />
clove poached pear. Full broad palate, some sweetness<br />
but balanced by the weight of the wine.<br />
Olly Styles: Lovely, white tea colour - a more fitting colour<br />
for Pinot Gris, let's be honest. Intriguing, nutty, perfumed,<br />
rose petal nose. Well built on the palate, expansive but<br />
well-controlled. Acid is good.<br />
Points: 87<br />
$15.95<br />
Yealands Pinot Gris<br />
Marlborough 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Gris tinged , mandarin scented, on the<br />
palate alomost orange pith, soft finish.<br />
Barry Riwai: Cooler lime and cashew notes with a hint of<br />
green melon. Lean and dry with an appealing zesty finish.<br />
Olly Styles: Very pungent, floral, pear and peach aromas.<br />
Nice, svelte, textured palate with good interest and a<br />
springy acidity.<br />
Points: 90<br />
32 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Pinot Gris | Tastings<br />
Lawson's Dry Hills Reserve Pinot Gris<br />
Marlborough 2019<br />
Simon Nash:Full colour, bright, lemon gris tinge, soft quite<br />
broad, with nectarine characters, quite grippy phenolics, ripe<br />
peach fruit but grippy characters despite sound acidity.<br />
Barry Riwai: Candied peel, dried pear and hints of quince<br />
paste. Appealing bottle aged characters, brulee, red<br />
toffee apples.<br />
Olly Styles: Golden colour with aromas of baked apple,<br />
cinnamon, and some oak perhaps? Lovely, filling palate<br />
weight that gives way to a textured finish. Really good<br />
length, finishing on apple.<br />
Points: 88<br />
$30<br />
$31<br />
Greywacke Pinot Gris<br />
Marlborough 2018<br />
Simon Nash: very full colour, almost heavy lemon, heavy,<br />
concentrated ripeness vanilla, manuka honey notes, has<br />
grippy phenolics, chunky pineapple.<br />
Barry Riwai: Honey, lemon meringue on the nose are<br />
followed by apricot and peach on the palate. The sweet<br />
finish works well with the honeyed expression.<br />
Olly Styles: A touch lifted, it seems, but this is my personal<br />
Pinot Gris of the day, and I don’t care who knows it.<br />
Evidently sweet but with a really delicious body and<br />
mouthfeel. Finishes on a very long note of stewed apple<br />
and apple crumble. Golden delicious; gold and delicious!<br />
Points: 87<br />
Three Miners Miner's Right Pinot Gris<br />
Central Otago 2019<br />
Simon Nash: pale, quite bright a little light, lemon, chalky<br />
almost limestone notes, nice juicy soft fruit, lime and<br />
lemon, good acidity, very clean across the palate. Finishes<br />
nicely. Good.<br />
Barry Riwai: Very pale, lime marmelade and lemon curd.<br />
Sweet spice and pear on the palate, zesty acidity is<br />
balaced by a touch of sweetness.<br />
Olly Styles: Very pretty, floral, white fruit aromas – quite<br />
perfumed. Maybe showing a touch of age? Very<br />
enjoyable, very juicy palate. Good length. Knows what it<br />
wants to be all the way through. Ends on a note of slightly<br />
bruised apple – for drinking now.<br />
Points: 90<br />
$28<br />
$34.99<br />
Gustave Lorentz Reserve Pinot Gris<br />
Alsace 2018<br />
Simon Nash: Full lemon with gris tinge, orange tree flower<br />
notes, not varietal, ditto palate. Some mandarin fruit soft.<br />
Barry Riwai: Pink grapefruit zest, blood orange flavours,<br />
gently finish with a touch of sweetness.<br />
Olly Styles: Reused teabag colour. Lifted, steely, baked<br />
apple. Big palate.<br />
Points: 84<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
33
Tastings | Pinot Noir<br />
Pinot Noir<br />
$45<br />
Holly Matahiwi Estate South Series<br />
Pinot Noir<br />
Wairarapa 2019<br />
Simon Nash: Dark, bright, sweet lifted almost perfumed,<br />
parma violet notes, beguiling juicy softness, nice<br />
supporting wood and other characters. Good fruit<br />
weight and length.<br />
Barry Riwai: Game, roasted cherry and an impression<br />
umami savouryness. Oak is there but with an<br />
impressive level of fruit weight and sweetness. Great<br />
carry on the finish, plush.<br />
Olly Styles: Very deep, dark and broody with a whack of<br />
oak there as well. Nice fruit and good oak. Finishes well,<br />
a bigger Pinot Noir.<br />
Points: 92<br />
Auntsfield Single Vineyard Pinot Noir<br />
Marlborough 2019<br />
Simon Nash: Very dark, almost, black/ruby, bright, dark<br />
berry, quite rich, soft, ripe on the palate, round, coating<br />
tannins, nice grip, good depth and presents layers,<br />
complex and layered.<br />
Barry Riwai: Dark purple hues, super concentrated look.<br />
Vanilla, mocha oak support very ripe plum jam and<br />
mixed berry fruit flavours.<br />
Olly Styles: A somewhat metallic note on the nose along<br />
with some nice forest fruits. Quite an earthy palate and<br />
packs a bit of a punch too.<br />
Points: 90<br />
TASTING<br />
TEAM<br />
TOP<br />
CHOICE<br />
$40<br />
$46.99<br />
Domain Road Vineyard - Pinot Noir<br />
Central Otago 2019<br />
Simon Nash: Ruby, dark red, vinous, bright, smoky/<br />
woodsmoke, olive tinged fruit style, grippy tannis.<br />
Barry Riwai: Black Forest gateau, cherry liqueur and bitter<br />
chocolate. Still very youthful, with promonent sweet oak<br />
but very complex layers of fruit flavour and savoury<br />
earthy tones.<br />
Olly Styles: Pretty, leafy, herbal fruit, cedar box, red wax.<br />
Very pretty, svelte palate, lovely, sinewy texture and length.<br />
Long. Great.<br />
Points: 90<br />
$40<br />
Wild Earth Pinot Noir<br />
Central Otago 2019<br />
Simon Nash: Rouge, soft quite light looking, charry, lifted,<br />
berry fruit, not complex but forward berry/cherry fruit.<br />
Not long on the finish but sound.<br />
Barry Riwai: Lifted red fruits, raspberry fruit leather with soft<br />
spice and gamey flavours. Very soft palate with berries<br />
cream finish.<br />
Olly Styles: Macerated cherry and bark notes. Supple<br />
palate entry and nice structure.<br />
Points: 87<br />
34 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Pinot Noir | Tastings<br />
$29.95<br />
Babydoll Pinot Noir<br />
Marlborough 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Deep colour, bright, leafy, light with olive<br />
tones on the nose, quite mineral, soft fruit, not complex.<br />
Barry Riwai: Cherry berry and charr, very young bright and<br />
fresh. Cedary oak comes through on the palate needs<br />
some time to settle.<br />
Olly Styles: Quite a vinous, deep nose, quite a lot of oak;<br />
nice, svelte palate, pretty, juicy, well-made. Nice length,<br />
touch of bitterness on the finish.<br />
Points: 86<br />
$21.05<br />
Yealands Estate Single Vineyard<br />
Pinot Noir<br />
Marlborough 2019<br />
Simon Nash: Dark, quite chunky looking, bright, quite<br />
charry, toasty, heavy style, ripe fruit, vanilla char, forward<br />
style, with saddle leather and cherry polish overlay.<br />
Barry Riwai: Strawberry and baked tamarillo aromas with<br />
savoury oak flavours. Bold use of oak that, for the moment,<br />
pushes ahead of the fruit.<br />
Olly Styles: Smokey, charry black plum notes. Sweet fruit<br />
core but a bit too enveloped on the “Dark Side” for my<br />
taste.<br />
Points: 90<br />
$27.99<br />
Sileni Cellar Selection Pinot Noir 2020<br />
Hawke's Bay 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Nice bright crimson, vinous looking,<br />
berry char, with some bacon fat, savoury, nice chewy,<br />
juicy, lifted, black berry jam style, sweet finish which is<br />
attactively done.<br />
Barry Riwai: Lifted cherry with licorice, more plum and<br />
sweet oak spice on the palate. Generous fruit.<br />
Olly Styles: Very pretty, autumnal notes. Herbal, light-of-foot,<br />
nice freshness. Pretty.<br />
Points: 87<br />
$19.99<br />
Diggers Law Pinot Noir 2019<br />
Central Otago 2019<br />
Simon Nash: Good dark bright, vinous, mineral and wet<br />
stone on the nose, some nice black berry fruit, round,<br />
soft across the palate, nice light juicy chewy tannins.<br />
Good finish.<br />
Barry Riwai: Wild strawberry on the nose with ripe red<br />
cherry on the palate. Well handled oak give structure and<br />
sweetness, this is a more delicate, savoury style.<br />
Olly Styles: Black fruit compote, nice perfume, seems<br />
almost lifted. Velvety palate, very vinous through the midpalate,<br />
nice juiciness.<br />
Points: 90<br />
Zephyr Pinot Noir<br />
Marlborough 2019<br />
Simon Nash: Dark berry, bright, velvet, chunky/dark<br />
chocolate, smooth galaxy chocolate, quite rich, good<br />
depth, mouth coating tannins, soft, fleshy ripe fruit,<br />
crowd pleaser.<br />
Barry Riwai: Black Doris plum, pomegranite molasses with<br />
toasted grains and sweet vanillin spice. Firm wine with<br />
structural tannin.<br />
Olly Styles: Broody, deep, vinous. Vinous palate too. Quite<br />
grunty, raisiny.<br />
Points: 87<br />
$32<br />
$24.99<br />
Esk Valley Pinot Noir<br />
Marlborough 2019<br />
Simon Nash: dark, deep crimson, bright, nice intense<br />
milk chocolate, good richness, nice weight of soft ripe<br />
berry fruit, with good grip, supporting tannins, well layered.<br />
Nice finish.<br />
Barry Riwai: Mulberry aromas that give way to cranberry<br />
and cocoa flavours on the palate. Firm tannin with a<br />
lingering dry finish.<br />
Olly Styles: Cherry, toasty, smoky notes. Sappy too. Nice,<br />
juicy palate.<br />
Points: 86<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
35
Tastings | Pinot Noir<br />
$33.99<br />
Holly Matahiwi Estate Pinot Noir<br />
Wairarapa 2019<br />
Simon Nash: Dark red, quite full depth of colour, intense<br />
milk chocolate, good ripe berry flavours, good grip and<br />
juicy soft fruit. Medium levels complexity and finish.<br />
Barry Riwai: Dense red fruits, blackberry and dark charr.<br />
Firm, full palate in a riper style that has oak in support.<br />
Nicely made opulent style with balance.<br />
Olly Styles: High impact oak, stewed red fruit notes with<br />
spice. Nice, juicy. Diaphanous on the palate.<br />
Points: 90<br />
$39.99<br />
Goldfields Pinot Noir 2019<br />
Central Otago 2019<br />
Simon Nash: Nice bright crimson, vinous looking, ripe<br />
berry strawberry and shortcake on the nose, ripe good<br />
supporting acidity.<br />
Barry Riwai: Raspberry, loganberry flavours and aromas.<br />
Great fruit drive to this wine with a soft yet complete<br />
palate with an array of flavour both fruit driven and<br />
complex.<br />
Olly Styles: Nutmeg and orange on the nose. Nice, juicy<br />
palate. Fresh and quite pretty. Quite beguiling.<br />
Points: 91<br />
Giesen Uncharted Pinot Noir<br />
Marlborough 2019<br />
Simon Nash: Full dark crimson red, juicy berry quite soft,<br />
nice berry fruit , juicy not complex, ditto on the palate, ripe<br />
juicy soft not intense but well presented.<br />
Barry Riwai: Baked red apple and cherry compote,<br />
coupled with sweet spice and toasted almonds.<br />
Olly Styles: Red fruit macerated in schnaps. Broad palate,<br />
bit clunky but some nice cherry and red fruit notes push<br />
through on the finish.<br />
Points: 86<br />
$24.99<br />
$24.99<br />
Main Divide Pinot Noir<br />
North Canterbury 2018<br />
Simon Nash: Vinous, dark rouge, charry, lifted, ripe tones,<br />
berry shortcake, juicy, soft, forward and almost fleshy fruit,<br />
supporting juicy tannins.<br />
Barry Riwai: A little closed at first, some firm tannin on<br />
the palate that slowly opens up to a toasted grains and<br />
roasted meats, caramelised flavour spectrum.<br />
Olly Styles: Oak, fruit pushing into secondary aromas. Very<br />
sweet fruit core with nice, juicy length.<br />
Points: 87<br />
Villa Maria Earth Garden Pinot Noir<br />
Marlborough 2019<br />
Simon Nash: Good dark bright, vinous, mineral and wet<br />
stone on the nose, some nice black berry fruit, round, soft<br />
across the palate, nice light juicy chewy tannins. Good<br />
finish<br />
Barry Riwai: Baked red apple and cherry compote,<br />
coupled with sweet spice and toasted almonds.<br />
Olly Styles: Black fruit compote, perfume, quite bright.<br />
Velvety palate, very vinous through the mid-palate, nice<br />
juiciness.<br />
Points: 86<br />
$29.99<br />
$32<br />
Terrace Edge Pinot Noir 2018<br />
North Canterbury 2018<br />
Simon Nash: Soft rouge, berry compote, quite intense<br />
on the nose, nice fleshy fruit, medium weight, good<br />
supporting acidity well made with good length and zest<br />
to the finish.<br />
Barry Riwai: Strawberry jam aromas, more meal and lightly<br />
toasted grains on the palate. Gentle wine with tannins<br />
that will work well with food.<br />
Olly Styles: Pot pourri, herbal, cherry notes - also a fair<br />
dose of celery. Nice, lithe palate which finishes fresh and<br />
pretty. Touch dry on the finish.<br />
Points: 87<br />
36 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Pinot Noir | Tastings<br />
Auntsfield Hawk Hill Pinot Noir<br />
Marlborough 2018<br />
Simon Nash: Nice soft rouge, attractive, good lifted,<br />
juicy brambley, quite intense bouquet, good grip, nice<br />
tannins and juicy chewy berry expression. Quite intense<br />
and tight. Nice finish.<br />
Barry Riwai: Berry pie, sweet spice with some interesting<br />
toffee, caramel notes. All the wines of this vintage have<br />
a similar ripe red fruits spectrum with gentle palates and<br />
firm tannin.<br />
Olly Styles: Stewed fruit, oak. Quite a powerful wine that is<br />
all about black fruit and broodiness. Warm.<br />
Points: 90<br />
$29.99<br />
$53<br />
Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir<br />
North Canterbury 2018<br />
Simon Nash: Dark also vinous, nice intense, milk<br />
chocolate, sweet oaky style, lifted and ripe, round, juicy<br />
with supporting tannins. Cuddly with good grIp and lively<br />
acids on the finish.<br />
Barry Riwai: Red plum with sweet oak aromas, some fine<br />
herbal notes too. Velvity texture on the palate, showing<br />
some maturity but still very fine.<br />
Olly Styles: Quite broody, stewed fruit. Nice, textured,<br />
lengthy palate. Juicy and long, with flavours running the<br />
length of the finish.<br />
Points: 88<br />
Trinity Hill Lost Garden Pinot Noir<br />
Hawke's Bay 2019<br />
Simon Nash: Quite light or rouge colour, bright, raw,<br />
almost, nettley sauvage notes, green tinged almost<br />
greengage nose.<br />
Barry Riwai: Cool greener wholebunch characters, bayleaf,<br />
greywacke and pink grapefruit. A refreshing alternate style<br />
that's layered with flavour.<br />
Olly Styles: Quite a white wine nose - perfumed, and a hint<br />
of greenness – comes across like a Tunes sweet (which<br />
I like!). Very fresh, very linear, harvested quite early in the<br />
piece? Still has a lot of youthful charm.<br />
Points: 87<br />
$25<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
37
Tastings | Pinot Noir<br />
Satyr Foothills Pinot Noir 2019<br />
Hawke's Bay 2019<br />
Simon Nash: Orange ruby bright, lifted quite bricky,<br />
ie dusty berry fruit, mid weight, dry, forward style, ripe,<br />
sound finish.<br />
Barry Riwai: Garnet hues, lifted red fruits.<br />
Olly Styles: Like an old wardrobe: dried petal, wood, etc.<br />
Nice palate entry though, juicy, interesting.<br />
Points: 83<br />
Vergence Red MK1<br />
Otago 2018<br />
$29.99<br />
Simon Nash: Dark, deep, olive green nose, quite nettley<br />
almost, leafy and savoury style, ripe but slightly soupy,<br />
sweaty on the palate.<br />
Barry Riwai: Cola berry, dried fig and prunes. Looks like<br />
a super ripe style that has dried fruit flavours and big<br />
structure. Has mellowed a little with time.<br />
Olly Styles: Very attractive nose, very black fruit, cassis,<br />
plum and cherry. Svelte entry, supple, big style of Pinot, but<br />
still attractive in that style.<br />
Points: 86<br />
$40<br />
$22.95<br />
Trinity Hill Hawke's Bay Pinot Noir<br />
Hawke's Bay 2018<br />
Simon Nash: Medium colour, quite lightweight looking,<br />
ripe, honeycomb, lifted fruit, on the palate though quite<br />
loose knit.<br />
Barry Riwai: Prune and mulberry aromas, oak tends<br />
to lead the palate but gives an intersting muscavado<br />
sugar flavour.<br />
Olly Styles: Nice, supple, complex velvety palate. Juicy,<br />
fresh, long and pretty. Good fresh, bright fruit here.<br />
Points: 88<br />
Lawson's Dry Hills Reserve Pinot Noir<br />
Marlborough 2017<br />
Simon Nash: Nice dark ruby crimson colour, good weight<br />
of strawberry fruit, a little light, juicy leafy fruit. Sound and<br />
balanced but lacks weight and depth. Solid finish though.<br />
Barry Riwai: Strawberry preserve, gentle gamey palate with<br />
medium intensity.<br />
Points: 88<br />
$35<br />
Three Miners Warden's Court Pinot Noir<br />
Central Otago 2018<br />
Simon Nash: Nice rouge soft and vinous. Lifted, quite<br />
berry/strawberry compote, with leafy tones. On the palate,<br />
nice mid weight, berry juicy and chewy style.<br />
Barry Riwai: Red apple and roasted sweet spice aromas,<br />
sweet pink rhubarb flavours. The oak integrates seemlessly<br />
and gives length to a fine toffeed finish.<br />
Olly Styles: Pretty red fruit and cassis notes, with smoky oak.<br />
Points: 88<br />
$42<br />
$59.99<br />
Giesen Single Vineyard Clayvin<br />
Pinot Noir<br />
Marlborough 2016<br />
Simon Nash: Nice solid vinous dark red mature fruit. Good<br />
weight of fruit. Soft and polished. Sound fruit. Medium<br />
weight. Sound with nice berry fruit and a balanced finish.<br />
Barry Riwai: Game and raspberries, sweet vanillin on the<br />
finish. Showing its age well with gentle, rounded tannins.<br />
Olly Styles: Cedar, cinnamon, camphor notes. A quite nice,<br />
macerated plum and star anise note.<br />
Points: 83<br />
38 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Pinot Rosé<br />
$24.99<br />
Pinot Rosé | Tastings<br />
Domain Road Vineyard - Pinot Noir Rosé<br />
Central Otago 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Attractive pink, bright lively looking, quite<br />
zesty nose, berry chocolate, nice fruit weight mid palate,<br />
good grip and attractive chewy tannins, leafy notes but<br />
but good balance.<br />
Barry Riwai: Raspberry, sweet briar rose and spice. Tight<br />
palate, bright silken acidity that surrounds a touch of fruit<br />
sweetness.<br />
Olly Styles: Light pink. Talcum powder and new plastic toys<br />
on the nose. Lean, but a nice juiciness through the palate.<br />
Points: 91<br />
TASTING<br />
TEAM<br />
TOP<br />
CHOICE<br />
Waimea Pinot Noir Rosé 2020<br />
Nelson 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Nice pale onion skin/pink tinge, bright, hint<br />
of savoury character, quite char ripe, especially in mid<br />
palate, a little short.<br />
Barry Riwai: Wild strawberry and musk rose, full dry style<br />
with super crisp acidity. Reallly lively on the palate.<br />
Olly Styles: Light salmon, onion-skin, peach skin colour. Bit<br />
dusty on the nose, nice acidity, decent.<br />
Points: 86<br />
$17.99<br />
$27<br />
Villa Maria Cellar Selection Rosé<br />
Marlborough 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Lipstick orange/pink bright tinge, quite heavy<br />
raspberry fruit nose, nice leaf tinged, juicy, touch herbal<br />
palate. Mostly dry, medium finish.<br />
Barry Riwai: Red plum on the nose, cherry flavours and<br />
brambles on the palate. Very structural dry palate, little<br />
hint of tannin would make this a great food wine.<br />
Olly Styles: Blood orange colour. Reticent nose, with a bit<br />
of talcum powder. Nice palate, well made, juicy, finishes<br />
fresh and dry.<br />
Points: 88<br />
$19<br />
Seifried Nelson Pinot Noir Rosé<br />
Nelson 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Full strawberry pink, bright, jam on entry,<br />
spice and jammy notes, ripe and juicy across the palate,<br />
sweet fruited, not complex, easy drinking.<br />
Barry Riwai: Cherry and red apple, a little hint of rosehip<br />
syrup. Baked cherry comes through the palate with a<br />
sovouryness on the finish.<br />
Olly Styles: Pinky salmon, partridge eye colour. Noticeable<br />
Residual Sugar. Quite straightforward but appealing<br />
palate albeit a touch confected. Sweet, fresh, chewy. Still<br />
has a nice Pinot-esque charm to it.<br />
Points: 86<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
39
Tastings | Pinot Rosé<br />
Zephyr MK1 Organic Rosé<br />
Marlborough 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Pale pink, bright, soft strawberry notes, soft<br />
with leafy characters, a little lean and tad short.<br />
Barry Riwai: Candyfloss and toffee apple, bright fresh<br />
palate with hints of wild thyme.<br />
Olly Styles: Very pale pink. Vinous, talcum powder nose,<br />
blossom, florals. Lean, fresh.<br />
Points: 83<br />
$28<br />
Awatere River Spindrift Rosé 2020<br />
Marlborough 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Pale pink, bright, lifted, quite savoury notes on<br />
the nose, lighter style, strawberry fruit character, off dry.<br />
Barry Riwai: Palest pretty pink, delicate white rose, red<br />
apple and pomegranite. Very good intensity, great carry<br />
and bright savoury finish.<br />
Olly Styles: Light ballet-slipper pink. Nose comes across a<br />
touch dusty.<br />
Points: 85<br />
$29.99<br />
Greystone Rosé<br />
North Canterbury 2020<br />
Simon Nash: Quite heavy pink almost trending to orange,<br />
heavy quite sweaty nose, ripe, strawberry jam on the<br />
palate, soft, off dry, juicy round style.<br />
Barry Riwai: Peach and stewed yellow apples on the nose<br />
give way to berry fruit compote. A touch of tannin gives<br />
structure to the finish.<br />
Olly Styles: Copper and pink hues. Quite a forward,<br />
pungent nose of negroni and boiled sweets. Broad, sweet<br />
palate, brought into focus later on. Acidity seems a touch<br />
sour. Decent length.<br />
Points: 84<br />
$25<br />
Photo by Dennis Vinther<br />
40 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Domain Road Vineyard<br />
Domain Road Vineyard<br />
has two vineyards<br />
in Bannockburn,<br />
the home vineyard<br />
on Domain<br />
Road, with a<br />
Cellar Door on our Defiance<br />
Vineyard on Felton Road.<br />
Owned locally by myself,<br />
Graeme, and my wife Gillian,<br />
the vineyards are now<br />
managed by our son Steven.<br />
As we complete our 16th<br />
harvest our philosophy has<br />
always been to tend the vines<br />
with thought and care, with<br />
a move over recent years<br />
towards organic production<br />
and <strong>2021</strong> marks the start<br />
of our certification process.<br />
We have a small valuable<br />
team helping Steven in the<br />
vineyard, and welcoming our<br />
customers at the Cellar Door.<br />
In 2006, we produced<br />
our first Pinot Noir Rosé,<br />
beginning our love for this<br />
wine and winning praise from<br />
our customers.<br />
The vineyards have been<br />
planted with deference<br />
to the local gold mining<br />
activity during the 19th and<br />
early 20th centuries. This left<br />
the vineyards with a mix of<br />
mined and unmined land<br />
which fitted the production of<br />
different grapes perfectly. The<br />
sites are planted with Pinot<br />
Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay,<br />
Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc<br />
grapes.<br />
We pride ourselves on producing<br />
a range of ten award winning<br />
wines, with consistent high quality<br />
across the range. Most of the<br />
Carefully crafted on a<br />
Central Otago family vineyard<br />
WINNER OF OVER 100<br />
INTERNATIONAL ACCODLADES<br />
wines are available for tasting at<br />
the Cellar Door, where visitors are<br />
welcome every day from 11am to<br />
5pm.<br />
Bannockburn • Central Otago • New Zealand<br />
www.domainroad.co.nz<br />
Cellar Door open 7 Days 11am -5pm • 263 Felton Rd Brannockburn
Feature | Yealands<br />
TOP WINES<br />
FROM A PASSIONATE<br />
WINEMAKER<br />
Natalie Christensen,<br />
Chief Winemaker<br />
for Yealands, has<br />
many passions<br />
in life and found<br />
her love for wine<br />
through a series of experiences<br />
that began with her completing<br />
a Bachelor of Music and a<br />
Master of Science (receiving first<br />
class honours) at Canterbury<br />
University, as well as becoming a<br />
classically trained double bass<br />
player. During university Natalie<br />
was working in a wine bar and as<br />
a volunteer fire fighter with early<br />
ambitions to work for the New<br />
Zealand film industry composing<br />
musical scores, or to forge a path<br />
in musical therapy, interested in<br />
the connectivity of music and the<br />
different experiences that people<br />
have when listening to music.<br />
However, life took an unexpected<br />
turn when Natalie moved to<br />
Marlborough in 2006 to complete<br />
a harvest with Saint Clair and<br />
she began to connect the dots<br />
between her various passions<br />
and experiences. Her time as a<br />
fire fighter had taught her to work<br />
with heavy hoses and in steel toecapped<br />
boots; her knowledge<br />
and love of wine was sparked<br />
through her time in the wine bar;<br />
even her musical training would<br />
play its part in her approach to<br />
winemaking. A single vintage of<br />
exhausting but exhilarating work<br />
in the cellar was all it took for<br />
Natalie to realise her true calling<br />
was as a winemaker.<br />
While working full-time as Saint<br />
Clair’s Assistant Winemaker she<br />
was also studying part-time<br />
to gain a Graduate Diploma<br />
in Oenology from the Eastern<br />
Institute of Technology in Hawke’s<br />
Bay, but this juggling act paid off<br />
and she graduated top in her<br />
year.<br />
Natalie became part of the<br />
full-time Yealands winemaking<br />
team in 2015 after working as<br />
Winemaker at La Cana in Rias<br />
Baixas, Spain making Albariño<br />
for the Jorge Ordonez group.<br />
By 2018 she had been named<br />
as one of the World’s Most<br />
Influential Women in Wine by The<br />
Drinks Business and by January<br />
2019 she had become Chief<br />
Winemaker at Yealands.<br />
Yealands Reserve Pinot Gris<br />
2020 (voted Top Wine in Wine NZ<br />
Magazine’s <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong> Tasting,<br />
led by Simon Nash MW) and<br />
Yealands Estate Single Vineyard<br />
Pinot Gris 2020 (voted Runner Up)<br />
are both sourced from Seaview<br />
Vineyard.<br />
Natalie strives to create wines<br />
that are true to site and season<br />
and in her own words, she<br />
doesn’t like to “fiddle” too much,<br />
preferring to allow the wines<br />
to express where they come<br />
from. The Reserve Pinot Gris has<br />
concentrated notes of young<br />
apricot, quince and warming<br />
baking spice and has a very<br />
luscious and generous palate,<br />
balancing fruit and acidity with<br />
a long dry finish. The Single<br />
Vineyard Pinot Gris is brimming<br />
with pear drop and fig, subtle<br />
spice and perfectly balanced<br />
with a lingering finish.<br />
42<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
INSPIRED BY THE COAST
Feature | Matahiwi Estate<br />
Amazing<br />
Matahiwi<br />
Matahiwi<br />
Estate was<br />
established in<br />
1998 by wine<br />
lover Alastair<br />
Scott. He<br />
looked around the New Zealand<br />
wine regions as to where best<br />
to start his wine business and<br />
eventually settled on our site in<br />
the northern Wairarapa.<br />
The area – the Opaki Gravels<br />
outside Masterton – is amazing.<br />
It was first identified by the<br />
pioneering Frenchwoman Marie<br />
Zelie Beetham more than 120<br />
years ago and is credited with<br />
producing the region’s first<br />
pinot noir vintage in 1897, but<br />
prohibition came and the grapes<br />
were pulled out in 1905.<br />
We are a small but very<br />
dedicated team who work to<br />
deliver the best wine in every<br />
bottle. From every day drinkers<br />
to cellar worthy trophy winners!<br />
Especially for our reserve range<br />
– Holly and now Holly South<br />
Series. Named after the owners’<br />
daughter Holly, they demonstrate<br />
the best from the vineyard and<br />
winemaking team.<br />
We follow the Sustainable Wine<br />
New Zealand practices including<br />
a small farm of chickens, ducks<br />
and a couple of kunekune pigs<br />
named George and Brad! Great<br />
wine is made in the vineyard and<br />
we are lucky to have vineyard<br />
manager Karina Southey<br />
working the vineyard for over 10<br />
years. She knows the vineyard<br />
like the back of her hand and<br />
delivers great quality grapes for<br />
winemaker Miles Dinneen to work<br />
his magic on.<br />
Miles comes to us from the<br />
Hawkes Bay, although he went<br />
to school over the back fence of<br />
the vineyard, and has been in<br />
the wine industry for more than<br />
twenty years. Since joining the<br />
team four vintages ago he has<br />
produced a plethora of award<br />
winners, with a few trophies for<br />
good measure! He believe the<br />
Wairarapa is under-appreciated<br />
as a wine region, and has<br />
significant growth opportunities<br />
so keep an eye out.<br />
The majority of the planting<br />
is Pinot Noir with the obligatory<br />
Sauvignon Blanc, mainly for Texas,<br />
as well as a small amount of<br />
Pinot Gris and Chardonnay.<br />
We market these wines locally<br />
in the on and off trade as well<br />
as export more than 50% of<br />
production. The overseas markets<br />
love listing a small family owned<br />
winery from one of the smallest<br />
wine regions as something<br />
different to offer their consumers.<br />
We also love running events<br />
at the winery and we’re active<br />
on social media with a goal of<br />
sharing our story - we’re serious<br />
about the wine, but can still<br />
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selling it! Each year we run two<br />
sell out events, the ‘Pick your own<br />
Rose’ and ‘Winemaker for a Day’<br />
as part of Wellington on a Plate<br />
event. These events give people<br />
a hands on experience in a<br />
vineyard and a winery as well a<br />
lot of fun! People loving seeing<br />
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and lunching amongst the big<br />
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middle of winter!<br />
Our online wine club get early<br />
access to events and new releases<br />
as well as great deals throughout<br />
the year. Join Club ME today -<br />
www.matahiwi.co.nz<br />
44<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
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Feature | Gibbston<br />
The valley of the vines<br />
The most rugged of the Central<br />
Otago wine subregions, Gibbston<br />
has a plethora of wineries to<br />
explore, from the luxurious to the<br />
rustic. Charmian Smith offers<br />
a guide to the wineries nearest<br />
Queenstown and Arrowtown.<br />
Gibbston is known<br />
as “the valley<br />
of the vines”<br />
and no wonder.<br />
Between the<br />
craggy Nevis<br />
Bluff at the eastern end and the<br />
distinctive Judge and Jury rocks<br />
presiding over the western end,<br />
vineyards cover the warm, north-<br />
46<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Gibbston | Feature<br />
The Gibbston cycle trail runs along the cliffs above the Kawarau river while Gibbston Valley winery, home vineyard<br />
and lodge nestle below the hills.<br />
facing slopes above the highway.<br />
Far below, the might blue-green<br />
Kawarau forces its way between<br />
rock walls of the gorge. It’s best<br />
seen from the Gibbston cycle<br />
and walking trail, the historic<br />
bungee bridge - or from the<br />
spine tingling road to Chard<br />
Farm.<br />
Like nearby Arrowtown and<br />
Queenstown, Gibbston was<br />
part of the 1860s gold rushes.<br />
Then sheep farming took over<br />
as several old wool sheds, now<br />
converted into tasting rooms and<br />
even houses, attest. Wine growing<br />
started in the 1980s when Alan<br />
Brady planted a little vineyard<br />
round his holiday cottage at<br />
what was to become Gibbston<br />
Valley. Soon after, brothers Rob<br />
and Greg Hay established Chard<br />
Farm on a former orchard site<br />
clinging spectacularly to a shelf<br />
above the Kawarau, and all three<br />
are still connected with wine in<br />
the area.<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
47
Feature | Gibbston<br />
Gibbston is the highest of the<br />
Central Otago subregions and<br />
tends to be the coolest. The<br />
bigger wineries source much<br />
of their fruit from elsewhere in<br />
Central, but some also make<br />
single vineyard Gibbston<br />
wines. The smaller, familyowned<br />
wineries make their<br />
wine exclusively from their own<br />
Gibbston vineyards, so there is<br />
plenty of opportunity to taste the<br />
subregional characteristics.<br />
Varieties you’ll find here are<br />
pinot gris, riesling, increasingly<br />
fresh, elegant chardonnay, and<br />
of course, pinot noir, which tends<br />
to be lively and intense, fragrant<br />
with hints of violets, fruit in the red<br />
spectrum and earthy suggestions<br />
of dried herbs.<br />
Cellar doors and stylish<br />
accommodation now dot<br />
the area, and a popular bike<br />
trail runs along the river and<br />
between the wineries. Pick up<br />
the Central Otago wine trail<br />
brochure, or better, one of the<br />
Gibbston wine trail brochures to<br />
plan your visits. There are several<br />
transport options available from<br />
Queenstown, including cycling, if<br />
you don’t have a car.<br />
Most wineries have clubs<br />
which give access to small<br />
production wines not otherwise<br />
available, so if you enjoy a<br />
particular producer’s wines it’s<br />
worthwhile joining their club.<br />
good place to start the<br />
A Gibbston wine trail is at<br />
Kinross. Not only is it in the<br />
middle of the valley but it also<br />
has accommodation cottages,<br />
a friendly, casual bistro and, in<br />
summer, bike hire. Best of all for<br />
the wine lover, it showcases the<br />
produce of four neighbouring<br />
boutique vineyards, Valli,<br />
Hawkeshead, Coal Pit, Alan<br />
Brady’s Wild Irishman, as well as<br />
their own Kinross wines.<br />
www.kinross.nz<br />
Wine pioneer Alan Brady, who<br />
has downsized several times<br />
since founding Gibbston Valley<br />
Wines, now makes his own Wild<br />
Irishman, tiny amounts of pinot<br />
noir from selected vineyards<br />
around the region, including the<br />
dark, silky “Macushla” (meaning<br />
“my darling” in Irish), from the<br />
vineyard in front of the Kinross<br />
cottages.<br />
Grant Taylor of Valli, with<br />
some 28 Central Otago<br />
vintages behind him, is intent<br />
on showcasing the different<br />
subregions in his four single<br />
vineyard pinots. Compare the<br />
charming Gibbston, the richer<br />
Bannockburn and the more<br />
robust Bendigo. He also make<br />
a taut, expressive pinot from<br />
Waitaki in North Otago where he<br />
grew up. It has a special place<br />
in his heart, according to Kinross<br />
Kinross in the middle of the Gibbston.<br />
sommelier Luli Bonifetto.<br />
Don’t miss his orange wine,<br />
The Real McCoy, a fragrant,<br />
funky, textural and charming<br />
wine made from pinot gris<br />
fermented on its skins like a red<br />
wine. valliwine.com<br />
Denis Marshall and Ulrike<br />
Kurenbach’s Hawkshead<br />
vineyard is on the terrace above<br />
Kinross. They produce fine whites,<br />
a taut, aromatic and racy riesling<br />
and a richer, textural, dry pinot<br />
gris. Hawkeshead First Vines<br />
Pinot Noir 2018 is the essence<br />
48<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Gibbston | Feature<br />
of fine Gibbston pinot, hinting<br />
of cranberries and dried herbs,<br />
intense yet delicate but with firm,<br />
well balanced tannins.<br />
www.hawksheadwine.com<br />
Coal Pit, just round the corner<br />
from Kinross, up Coal Pit Rd, is<br />
one of the few wineries to make<br />
a Gibbston sauvignon blanc<br />
which is fragrant and minerally. Its<br />
savoury, silky-textured pinot noir<br />
is reminiscent of wild herbs in the<br />
hot sun. coalpitwine.com<br />
Kinross’s own charming pinot<br />
is fragrant and savoury. Named<br />
after Thomas Kinross, a pioneer<br />
farmer and trader supplying gold<br />
miners in the 1860s, the rustic<br />
tasting room and bistro features<br />
the story and photographs of<br />
Thomas, Helen and their 11<br />
children, and their original<br />
orchard still provides fruit for the<br />
bistro’s preserves.<br />
Sean Brennan aims to make wines<br />
that express their place.<br />
Wine buffs should not miss<br />
Brennan’s vineyard tucked<br />
away on Gibbston Back Rd.<br />
Sean Brennan’s parents planted<br />
the vineyard in the 1990s but<br />
in 2006 Sean returned to make<br />
his own wine. Sean is one of<br />
those impassioned winemakers<br />
who understands the different<br />
aspects and soil types of his<br />
10ha vineyard and seeks to make<br />
wines expressive of their place.<br />
He has a handful of unusual<br />
varieties such as tempranillo and<br />
muscat as well as chardonnay,<br />
riesling, pinot gris and pinot noir.<br />
Compare the contrasting styles<br />
of pinot gris: a crisp dry Pinot<br />
Grigio and a richer, more intense<br />
Simon Cox and Leah Seifert and their small family vineyard in the heart<br />
of Gibbston.<br />
pinot gris oozing lush fruit. A<br />
welcome change from the many<br />
pinot rosés in the district is his<br />
savoury, dry tempranillo/zinfandel<br />
rosé.<br />
There’s also a lovely fragrant,<br />
intense, dry muscat reminiscent<br />
of those you might find in<br />
southern Europe.<br />
Sean likes to hold his pinots for<br />
a couple of years before release.<br />
The 2015 B2 is an easier drinking<br />
style, soft and generous, while the<br />
Brennan 2015 is more structured<br />
with that charming red fruit and<br />
dried herb character typical<br />
of Gibbston pinot, but which<br />
doesn’t reveal itself until it has a<br />
few years in bottle.<br />
But what blew me away was<br />
the fragrant, intense, dry, orange<br />
wine made from muscat grapes.<br />
Orange wines, white grapes<br />
fermented on their skins in<br />
barrel like a red wine, are not to<br />
everyone’s taste with their pale<br />
orange colour and surprising<br />
tannins, but those made well can<br />
be delicious.<br />
Brennan also offer simple<br />
Gibbston Back Rd Vineyards with Mt Rosa behind.<br />
platters from their tasting room<br />
high on the slopes facing the<br />
craggy Nevis Bluff.<br />
www.brennanwines.com<br />
L<br />
ike Brennan, Coxs’ is an older<br />
family vineyard on Gibbston<br />
Back Rd, recently taken over by<br />
son Simon Cox and his wife Leah<br />
Seifert, a second generation<br />
heritage art dealer whose wares<br />
are on show the tiny tasting room.<br />
It’s worth phoning to make an<br />
appointment to hear their story<br />
and taste their wine from the<br />
bony, sloping vineyard. For almost<br />
20 years the grapes were sold to<br />
other producers, but Simon and<br />
Leah noted that they produced<br />
wines that were highly rated in<br />
local and overseas competitions.<br />
The couple have no illusions<br />
about how hard it will be to make<br />
a living from their 3.5ha vineyard<br />
but they are aiming high. Don’t<br />
miss the lively, floral 2019 pinot<br />
gris with its beautifully balanced<br />
finish, or their generous, charming<br />
and lively 2018 pinot noir.<br />
www.coxsvineyard.co.nz<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
49
Feature | Gibbston<br />
Mt Rosa is named after the<br />
sheep station at the eastern<br />
end of the valley below the<br />
scarps of Mt Rosa and Nevis Bluff.<br />
Its tasting room and restaurant in<br />
a rustically renovated woodshed<br />
tucked under a tussock covered<br />
hill, is a popular stop for lunch<br />
especially for those biking the<br />
wine trail.<br />
Trish Mackenzie keeps<br />
everyone in check with her dry<br />
sense of humour, noting where<br />
everybody is up to in their tasting<br />
while informing and entertaining<br />
them.<br />
Don’t miss the fragrant 2018<br />
pinot gris, oozing charm and<br />
lush fruit, or the 2016 pinot noir,<br />
redolent with cherry plums and<br />
dried herbs characteristic of the<br />
region. Depending on season,<br />
try their mulled wine or sangria<br />
- they sell a syrup made to their<br />
secret recipes so you can make<br />
up your own. www.mtrosa.co.nz<br />
The oldest producer in the area<br />
is Gibbston Valley, established<br />
by Alan Brady in 1990, but now<br />
much expanded and diversified.<br />
With a luxury lodge and spa, a<br />
Mt Rosa’s tasting room and restaurant in one of the many historic<br />
woolshed in the area.<br />
large restaurant, tasting room<br />
and shop, a bike hire operation,<br />
a cheesery and deli cafe,<br />
summer concerts, tours of the<br />
vineyard and iconic wine cave,<br />
and various tastings including<br />
wine and cheese matching, it<br />
nevertheless has not lost its focus<br />
on making fine wine.<br />
Christopher Keys, winemaker<br />
since 2006, produces a huge<br />
selection of wine, including<br />
some stylish bubblies, from the<br />
company’s organic vineyards<br />
in Bendigo (Red Shed, China<br />
Terrace and Schoolhouse) and<br />
Gibbston (Glenlee and Le Maitre<br />
home vineyard). There’s a little<br />
pinot blanc and sauvignon<br />
blanc but the major varieties are<br />
pinot gris, riesling, chardonnay,<br />
and, of course, pinot noir.<br />
Wines are served in appropriate<br />
glassware and magums<br />
and larger format bottles are<br />
available for special occasions or<br />
to add a touch of luxury<br />
Don’t miss the taut limy Red<br />
Shed single vineyard riesling<br />
2018, the 2018 pinot gris oozing<br />
Tasting wine in Gibbston Valley’s cave with winemaker Christopher Keys.<br />
50<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Gibbston | Feature<br />
Cycling the Gibbston trail is a popular way to visit the wineries.<br />
ripe stone fruit and mandarins<br />
and finishing with a racy<br />
freshness, the elegant China<br />
Terrace chardonnay 2019<br />
redolent with white peaches and<br />
mineral backbone.<br />
The more affordable Gold River<br />
pinot noir 2019 is a delicious<br />
fruity wine, textural and enjoyable<br />
rather than cerebral, but don’t<br />
miss comparing the single<br />
vineyard pinots: the lithe and<br />
complex and dark-fruited China<br />
Terrace pinot noir 2019 from<br />
Bendigo and the racier Glenlee<br />
2019 from Gibbston which<br />
hints of wild herbs, briar and<br />
raspberries.<br />
Gibbston Valley is another<br />
good place to stop for lunch on<br />
the wine trail with chef Anthony<br />
Gradiska’s food matched with<br />
Christopher’s wines.<br />
www.gibbstonvalley.com<br />
Quirky, full of personality<br />
but with excellent wines,<br />
Mount Edward is well worth<br />
making an appointment to visit.<br />
Duncan Forsyth is never scared<br />
of doing things differently. The<br />
winery is filled with zany art,<br />
murals and sculptures, and<br />
some of their products - a stylish<br />
vermouth, a 10-year old brandy,<br />
and an oloroso-like chenin<br />
blanc may also seem a little<br />
left field. However, their move<br />
to regenerative agriculture in<br />
their already organic vineyards<br />
in Pisa, Bannockburn and<br />
Gibbston shows a commitment<br />
to beneficial environmental and<br />
social outputs.<br />
They are looking to make<br />
lighter, fresher, harmonious wines<br />
rather than bigger muscular<br />
ones, Duncan says. There are two<br />
ranges, the more classic Ted and<br />
Mount Edward which is more<br />
textural.<br />
The whites are fresh with lovely<br />
mid palates - the dry, textural<br />
Mount Edward pinot blanc, the<br />
creamy nutty chardonnay, and<br />
the generous pinot gris. On a<br />
summer day you can’t go past<br />
the fresh, juicy crunchy gamay,<br />
an ideal summer red.<br />
Duncan Forsyth not afraid to do<br />
things differently.<br />
Dogs, warmth and murals at Mt Edward.<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
51
Feature | Gibbston<br />
The startling architecture of Peregrine’s winery tucked in the slopes above the Kawarau river.<br />
The pinots are more serous,<br />
the silky, red cherry char of the<br />
Ted and the dark fruited, textural<br />
Mount Edward made from older<br />
vines.<br />
Among the unusual offerings,<br />
don’t miss their mouthwatering<br />
dry vermouth. Apart from cloves,<br />
all the botanicals - elderflower,<br />
coriander seed, wormwood and<br />
thyme - are grown locally. It’s<br />
absolutely delicious over ice.<br />
mountedward.com<br />
The sleek roof of Peregrine’s<br />
winery evoking a falcon’s<br />
wing in flight is tucked below the<br />
highway. It’s well worth taking a<br />
tour of the startling architecture<br />
as well as tasting the pristine<br />
wines.<br />
Like many of the other larger<br />
wineries in Gibbston it has<br />
vineyards in Bendigo and Pisa in<br />
the Cromwell Basin as well as its<br />
home vineyard.<br />
Rieslings are a specialty<br />
among the whites: don’t miss the<br />
lively, intense Peregrine riesling<br />
hinting of lime marmalade.<br />
Compare it with the sweeter,<br />
more floral Rastaburn riesling with<br />
a lovely crunchy finish; and the<br />
ambrosial late harvest riesling<br />
oozing lime flowers with a hint of<br />
cream - delicious with a not-toosweet<br />
lemon tart.<br />
Peregrine pinot gris 2019 won<br />
wine of the show at the Riedel<br />
organic wine awards in 2020 - a<br />
fragrant, generous, lively wine<br />
that lingers deliciously on the<br />
aftertaste.<br />
Besides the attractive, textural<br />
Saddleback pinot noir, they<br />
usually have a couple of vintages<br />
of their more complex darker<br />
fruited Peregrine pinot noir to<br />
demonstrate how well their wines<br />
develop. I tasted the fragrant,<br />
complex 2017, with dark and red<br />
fruits and savoury undertones,<br />
and the more mature 2014 with<br />
its darker fruit, lingering intensity<br />
and lively finish which is drinking<br />
well at six years old.<br />
www.peregrinewines.co.nz<br />
Tucked away in a hollow beside<br />
the historic Gibbston Tavern<br />
is Rockburn’s rustic tasting room<br />
offering tastings from its Gibbston<br />
and Parkburn vineyards. There<br />
are two minerally sauvignon<br />
blancs, both with a few years<br />
age, demonstrating how well this<br />
variety can cellar. Both are barrel<br />
fermented with wild yeast, but the<br />
fumé style is more complex and<br />
creamy - ideal with food.<br />
The sky reflected in the pond in Peregrine’s car park: the winery roof in<br />
the shape of a falcon’s wing is behind.<br />
52<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Gibbston | Feature<br />
Rockburn’s Parkburn vineyard on the lower slopes of the Pisa range.<br />
Pinot gris from their Gibbston<br />
vineyard is charming and intense.<br />
Don’t miss their signature Tiger<br />
Moth riesling. The 2015 is sweet<br />
but so racy and tense you’d think<br />
it was dry. Assistant winemaker<br />
Scott Aliprandi says he would like<br />
to drink it in 30 years!<br />
Devil’s Staircase is a juicy,<br />
oak-free pinot noir oozing red<br />
fruits, while the 2018 Rockburn<br />
Pinot noir is smoky, lush with<br />
dark fruit. In the warm 2018<br />
vintage they also made a single<br />
vineyard Gibbston pinot noir,<br />
“The Chosen”, perfumed, toasty<br />
but with that typical freshness of<br />
Gibbston pinot.<br />
www.rockburn.co.nz<br />
It’s an adventure driving along<br />
Chard Rd, once the main route<br />
before the suspension bridge<br />
(now the Bungy bridge) was built<br />
in 1880. The road clings to the<br />
side of the cliff with the Kawarau<br />
far below, but having braved<br />
it, Chard Farm is a welcoming<br />
piece of paradise.<br />
It’s the second vineyard<br />
planted in the valley and its<br />
owner, Rob Hay was the first<br />
winemaker in the region. He<br />
had trained in Germany so<br />
it’s not surprising his love of<br />
riesling brought him to this cool,<br />
unproven (at the time) but<br />
promising area.<br />
Like other larger producers<br />
here, Chard’s main vineyards are<br />
in the Cromwell Basin and they<br />
make stylish rieslings, pinot gris<br />
and chardonnay as well as a<br />
little bit of gewurztraminer , and of<br />
course, several pinot noirs.<br />
In summer don’t miss the pale<br />
Maria Rose a fragrant, dry, blush<br />
pinot noir.<br />
The signature Judge and<br />
Jury Chardonnay, named after<br />
the distinctive rocks across the<br />
river, hints of citrus with creamy<br />
nutty undertones and a fresh,<br />
powerful, long finish. Compare<br />
it with the fresh, unoaked<br />
Closeburn chardonnay. Chard<br />
Farm has two Central Otago<br />
pinot blends, the fragrant, lively<br />
River Run and the darker, more<br />
structured Mata-au (the Maori<br />
name for the Clutha). It also<br />
produces superb single vineyard<br />
pinots from its Tiger, Viper and<br />
Mason vineyards - well worth<br />
comparing if they are available<br />
for tasting. www.chardfarm.co.nz<br />
Spectacular scenery: the Judge and Jury rock (right) presides over Chard Farm on the shelf above the<br />
Kawarau Gorge.<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
53
Feature | Gibbston<br />
Wet Jacket’s tasting room is in a historic woolshed near Lake Hayes.<br />
Amisfield winemakers, Ben Lean<br />
and Greg Lane in their Pisa<br />
vineyard.<br />
Not actually in Gibbston itself,<br />
but a little further towards<br />
Queenstown near Lake Hayes are<br />
two other cellar doors well worth<br />
visiting if you are in the area.<br />
Greg Hay’s Wet Jacket tasting<br />
room is in the original Bendemeer<br />
station schist and corrugated<br />
iron wool shed. Its renovations are<br />
a clever blend of the historic, with<br />
a fleece laid out in the original<br />
wool sorting area, and a stylishly<br />
comfortable tasting room with<br />
images of Captain Cook and<br />
Fiordland. It may seem a strange<br />
combination but Wet Jacket<br />
Arm (now a marine reserve) was<br />
named by Captain Cook during<br />
his sojourn in Dusky Sound in<br />
1773 - It rains a lot in Fiordland<br />
but it’s a region beloved by Greg,<br />
an ardent wildlife conservationist.<br />
Greg helped his brother Rob<br />
establish Chard Farm in the late<br />
1980s then went on to establish<br />
Peregrine. However about five<br />
years ago he decided to do<br />
something a little more boutique<br />
and developed Wet Jacket.<br />
Greg sources grapes from<br />
around Central Otago and<br />
long time colleague Peter Bartle<br />
makes the wines. Try the rich,<br />
elegant chardonnay, the racy<br />
riesling and the lively, fragrant<br />
pinot noir. www.wetjacket.nz<br />
Amisfield’s iconic stone tasting<br />
room and restaurant at<br />
Lake Hayes is the only South<br />
Island restaurant to be awarded<br />
three Cuisine hats. Built with<br />
recycled bridge timbers and<br />
views of Coronet Peak to the<br />
Remarkables, and big stone<br />
fireplaces, its hugely popular<br />
for lunch with chef Vaughan<br />
Mabee’s spectacular, innovative<br />
food.<br />
Amisfield makes a range of<br />
exemplary whites from its large<br />
Pisa vineyard, from a sparkling<br />
wine through riesling, pinot gris<br />
and pinot blanc to an unusual<br />
chenin blanc - lively, creamy and<br />
nutty with a crisp dry texture that<br />
pairs well with food.<br />
A trio of sauvignon blancs<br />
include the rich, minerally fumé<br />
blanc, and a barrel fermented<br />
noble sauvignon blanc, the<br />
ultimate dessert wine.<br />
In contrast to the fresh elegant<br />
style of chardonnay common in<br />
Central, Amisfield’s 2018 is nutty<br />
and buttery.<br />
They often have several<br />
vintages of their stylish pinot<br />
noir to compare, as well as a<br />
couple of reserves from specific<br />
parts of the vineyard: the vibrant<br />
Breakneck reserve is from Block<br />
7, the first block to be converted<br />
to organics; and the silky, savoury<br />
RKV Reserve from the distinctive,<br />
stony Rocky Knoll knob on the<br />
vineyard slopes. amisfield.co.nz<br />
Amisfield’s cellar door and bistro in the depths of winter.<br />
54<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> Summer <strong>2021</strong> 2020
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The Beginning<br />
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Behind the scenes o<br />
Amisfield’s stylish cellar door<br />
and bistro is the first stop on<br />
the wine trail after leaving<br />
Queenstown, but its large, single<br />
estate vineyard and winery is<br />
over the mountains on the Pisa<br />
slopes above Lake Dunstan.<br />
Charmian Smith goes behind<br />
the scenes to see what goes on<br />
in the vineyard and winery.<br />
Since 2005 Amisfield’s<br />
stylish tasting<br />
room and bistro at<br />
Lake Hayes near<br />
Queenstown has<br />
been attracting<br />
discerning customers, including,<br />
in 2014, the Duke and Duchess of<br />
Cambridge.<br />
However, the working part of<br />
the operation, the vineyard and<br />
winery, are through the Kawarau<br />
Gorge in the Cromwell Basin. The<br />
large vineyard spreads up the<br />
lower slopes of the Pisa range<br />
above Lake Dunstan, and the<br />
architect-designed winery, built<br />
in 2006, nestles above a pond<br />
with a herd of resident pekin<br />
ducks. These are the vineyard<br />
manager’s pets and the bistro<br />
chef, Vaughan Mabee, who loves<br />
hunting and foraging for local<br />
foods, says he’s not allowed to<br />
touch them!<br />
56 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Amisfield | Feature<br />
on the Pisa slopes<br />
For the winemakers at<br />
Amisfield, the challenge is not<br />
to make more wine but to make<br />
better wine, and to realise the<br />
best possible expression of<br />
their place, according to chief<br />
winemaker Greg Lane.<br />
As part of that process they<br />
have converted their 92ha<br />
vineyard, planted on the slopes<br />
above Lake Dunstan in the late<br />
1980s, to organics over the past<br />
few years.<br />
Winning the Vineyard of the<br />
Year award at the New Zealand<br />
Organic Wine Awards in 2020<br />
- Amisfield Lowburn Terrace<br />
riesling and Breakneck Reserve<br />
pinot noir were also champions<br />
of their varietal classes - was<br />
a matter of great pride and<br />
confirmation they were on the<br />
right track, he said.<br />
The vineyard, spread over<br />
92ha of slopes and gullies, offers<br />
several different aspects and<br />
soil types which can contribute<br />
to differences in the fruit grown<br />
there. With organic viticulture<br />
the blocks are expressing their<br />
individuality more, offering<br />
different characteristics in the<br />
fruit which, with care, can be<br />
conveyed in the wine, he said.<br />
“As the blocks are converted to<br />
organics, they start to shake off<br />
the uniformity and start showing<br />
their individuality.”<br />
One block that differentiated<br />
itself early, even before the<br />
organic conversion, was Rocky<br />
Knoll, a rocky hump with both<br />
north and south facing slopes<br />
that not only produces fine<br />
grapes but also has its own<br />
indigenous yeasts, different from<br />
in the rest of the vineyard.<br />
Another is Block 7 on the<br />
gentle slope near the winery<br />
which was the first to be<br />
converted to organics about 7<br />
years ago. The award winning<br />
Breakneck Reserve pinot was<br />
made from this block.<br />
“The flavours in the fruit [of<br />
Block 7] are clearer and more<br />
vibrant which is exciting. It shows<br />
we are definitely on the right<br />
track,” says Greg.<br />
Assistant winemaker Ben Leen<br />
says organics is giving them<br />
a different relationship to the<br />
place.<br />
“The differences between the<br />
blocks is more apparent in the<br />
grapes. It’s less monolithic as a<br />
consequence. The nuances are<br />
more apparent,” he says.<br />
Amisfield winery nestles into the hillside beneath the Pisa range.<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
57
Feature | Amisfield<br />
André Lategan, vineyard manager at Amisfield.<br />
Chef Vaughan Mabee is inspired by<br />
what grows around him in Central<br />
Otago.<br />
The whole team was involved<br />
in solving some of the problems<br />
that arose during conversion. It<br />
was spread over several years to<br />
minimise the dip in production<br />
that vines go through in their first<br />
year of so of the new regime.<br />
While conventional and<br />
even sustainable growers spray<br />
herbicide under the vines to keep<br />
down the weeds, organic growers<br />
have to solve the weed problem<br />
in a different way. The Amisfield<br />
team cultivates under the vines to<br />
remove weeds, but they are also<br />
moving the irrigation lines from<br />
along the vine rows to the centre<br />
between the rows. Not only does<br />
this deprive the under vine weeds<br />
of moisture, it provides water to<br />
the inter-row plantings during dry<br />
summers and also encourages<br />
the vines to extend their roots out<br />
and down towards the moisture,<br />
which is good for their health and<br />
the flavour of the grapes.<br />
Inter-row planting of a variety<br />
of companion plants such as<br />
clover to fix nitrogen, and others<br />
that attract beneficial insects,<br />
encourage the soil microbiota<br />
and aerate it with long roots, is<br />
an important aspect of organic<br />
viticulture.<br />
Viticulturist André Lategan has<br />
dug a “rootarium” between two<br />
rows. This hole, about a metre<br />
or so deep and lined with glass,<br />
allows them to observe vine roots<br />
spreading as they reach for the<br />
moisture.<br />
Before conversion the vines<br />
had no competition, but under<br />
the organic regime they are<br />
competing with the companion<br />
plants which makes the vines<br />
stronger and more resilient to<br />
pests.<br />
Summer alfresco dining at Amisfield Bistro.<br />
Instead of commercial fertiliser,<br />
compost is now used.<br />
“Walking the block and<br />
spreading compost by hand<br />
enhances your affinity with<br />
the place and you pay more<br />
attention,” says Ben.<br />
58<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Amisfield winery, pond with pekin<br />
ducks on the pond.<br />
“Now Block 7 has density and<br />
concentration you can see other<br />
blocks are about to get. There’s an<br />
unquantifiable dimension to the<br />
organic vineyard,” he says.<br />
“It takes more care and<br />
attention and costs more but the<br />
results are not only in the wines<br />
but also philosophically. I feel<br />
more of a vigneron, closer to the<br />
growth of the vines. It feels good<br />
to walk though the vineyard - it<br />
feels right now. When I saw a<br />
sprayed weed under the vine it<br />
didn’t feel right,” he said.<br />
The winery, built in 2006 was<br />
innovative in several ways,<br />
including in its wetland for<br />
treating winery waste water.<br />
The water flows through several<br />
settling ponds planted with<br />
aquatic species. It works so well<br />
that frogs now live in the lower<br />
ponds!<br />
Solid waste, such a skins and<br />
pips left over from winemaking,<br />
is composted then spread along<br />
the vine rows.<br />
There’s a lot more than<br />
pinot noir in Central Otago, as<br />
Amisfield attests. Around 40%<br />
of its production is whites -<br />
sauvignon blanc, riesling and<br />
pinot gris, and they are planting<br />
more chardonnay. Unusually in<br />
New Zealand they also grow and<br />
make chenin blanc, a grape<br />
variety that originates in the<br />
Loire Valley in France but is also<br />
planted widely in South Africa<br />
where it’s known as steen.<br />
Viticulturist André Lategan is<br />
originally from South Africa and<br />
missed his favourite white variety<br />
when he settled here.<br />
However, he heard about an<br />
old, now abandoned DSIR trial<br />
vineyard block in Alexandra<br />
and went to investigate. He took<br />
cuttings from old chenin blanc<br />
vines now growing wild there<br />
and propagated them. At first<br />
he made wine from them for<br />
himself in his wash house but it<br />
was so promising that more were<br />
planted in the vineyard and now<br />
Amisfield produces a crisp, juicy<br />
chenin that is much sought after.<br />
Recently the vines have been<br />
identified through DNA as a<br />
steen clone from South Africa -<br />
that must be very satisfying for<br />
André.<br />
While only wine club members<br />
can visit the winery and vineyard<br />
by appointment, Amisfield’s<br />
stylish cellar door and bistro<br />
near Lake Hayes is an essential<br />
stop on the Central Otago wine<br />
trail.<br />
Amisfield | Feature<br />
It’s a striking schist building<br />
with huge recycled timber<br />
beams supporting the roof and<br />
large stone fireplaces. Windows<br />
on one side overlook the<br />
Remarkables and on another,<br />
Coronet Peak. There’s also a<br />
sunny courtyard and water<br />
feature for outdoor dining in<br />
summer.<br />
Its ambience is a harmonious<br />
blend of sophistication and<br />
contemporary rusticity, however<br />
chef Vaughan Mabee’s food is<br />
definitely at the sophisticated<br />
end of the spectrum. He was<br />
named Cuisine Chef of the<br />
year in 2019 and this is the only<br />
restaurant in the South Island to<br />
be awarded three Cuisine hats.<br />
His flavours are bold and<br />
innovative with unexpected<br />
combinations, the ingredients<br />
are locally sourced, seasonal<br />
and some are foraged from the<br />
wild.<br />
The menus often change<br />
but for the three-course lunch<br />
there are a couple of canapés<br />
and three choices for each<br />
course based on local seasonal<br />
produce. For dinner there’s a<br />
10-course “trust the chef” menu.<br />
Both menus offer matched wines<br />
with all the dishes.<br />
Vaughan says his food is<br />
inspired by what is around him.<br />
Living in the mountains near<br />
Moke Lake, he loves hunting and<br />
foraging.<br />
A view of Coronet Peak from t<br />
he bistro.<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
59
Feature | Amisfield<br />
Amisfield vineyard.<br />
60<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Amisfield | Feature<br />
“I often find inspiration in what’s growing around<br />
me or random things like a hare eating a raspberry.<br />
I get a lot of ideas from looking around here - it’s<br />
kind of what my menus are based on.”<br />
Eating seasonally means preserving or<br />
fermenting produce in season for use at other<br />
times of year, particularly winter when fresh<br />
produce is limited.<br />
He collects hawthorn berries from the hedgerows<br />
in autumn and makes and preserves a simple<br />
syrup from them, some of which is used in cocktails<br />
and some in dishes like smoked red deer with<br />
hawthorn berry and beetroot.<br />
Harakeke (native flax) is another plant readily<br />
found in the area and he uses the seeds to flavour<br />
and cover homemade soft cheese, served with a<br />
hint of truffle and pickled blueberries - delicious<br />
with the slight sweetness and fresh acidity of the<br />
Lowburn Terrace riesling.<br />
An unexpected vegetable grown locally is<br />
kumara - it is frost-tender so the south is usually<br />
considered too cold for it, but he says it is grown in<br />
several places nearby. They serve it in several ways,<br />
including extracting the sugar, making ice cream<br />
from it, powdering it, and also using the leaves.<br />
It’s best to book a table well ahead as the<br />
restaurant is usually full, even without the flood of<br />
overseas visitors in these post-covid days.<br />
Wines<br />
There’s so much more to try<br />
than pinot noir in Central Otago,<br />
especially at Amisfield.<br />
Compare the fragrant, lively dry<br />
riesling and the award-winning<br />
intense, crisp and luscious Lowburn<br />
Terrace.<br />
Three sauvignon blanc, the fresh,<br />
gooseberry sauvignon<br />
blanc, the richer,<br />
minerally fumé style<br />
and the intriguingly<br />
complex, honeyed<br />
noble sauvignon.<br />
Chenin Blanc is a<br />
special rarely found<br />
except at the cellar<br />
door - fragrant and<br />
fresh with hints<br />
of crisp apple -<br />
don’t miss it if it’s<br />
available.<br />
And of course<br />
you can’t miss<br />
the spicy, redfruited<br />
pinot noir<br />
- there are usually<br />
several vintages<br />
to compare at<br />
the cellar door,<br />
and if you are<br />
lucky they may<br />
have one of the<br />
reserves open as<br />
well.<br />
amisfield.co.nz<br />
Organic<br />
Winery<br />
of the Year<br />
2020<br />
New Zealand<br />
Organic Wine<br />
Awards<br />
AMISFIELD.CO.NZ<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
61
Feature | The Landing<br />
62<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
The Landing | Feature<br />
Amid the<br />
splendour of<br />
the Far North<br />
DENNIS &<br />
ROSAMUND<br />
KNILL visit a<br />
winery of grand<br />
proportions<br />
with luxurious<br />
accommodation<br />
to share a<br />
bounty of<br />
fine wine<br />
and gourmet<br />
delights.<br />
Don’t worry about<br />
packing an alarm<br />
clock. You only<br />
need to listen<br />
for the Kiwis that<br />
routinely punctuate<br />
the morning. And if you sleep<br />
through the dawn then there’s<br />
the chorus of the native birds as<br />
they warm up for the day ahead.<br />
While nature and eco themes<br />
imbue all of The Landing's<br />
features you will begin to feel a<br />
million miles from the nearest<br />
town. With only four luxury villas<br />
delicately located around the<br />
property the designer’s instinct<br />
with an eye for character-rich<br />
heritage architecture lends itself<br />
to contemporary makeovers that<br />
have been built around mothernature.<br />
The feel here is eco cool<br />
with enough mod cons to put<br />
it in the luxury class. Fringed<br />
by six beaches The Landing<br />
is a sanction of peace and<br />
tranquillity combined with privacy<br />
and discretion.<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
63
Feature | The Landing<br />
And in a land that is not<br />
short of competition in terms<br />
of sumptuous multi-million<br />
dollar winery developments this<br />
commodious 1000 acre span<br />
of elegance with breath-taking<br />
views over islands and the sea<br />
has an immediate impact the<br />
moment you drive through the<br />
security gates.<br />
After entering the grandest of<br />
gates we are right in the middle<br />
of Northlands most coveted<br />
stretch of exclusive beachside<br />
real estate that has established<br />
itself as one of the world’s most<br />
front ranking wineries. You can<br />
sense the imposing atmosphere<br />
from the very beginning. As the<br />
anticipation grows you pass vast<br />
fields of grapevines, manicured<br />
rolling hills as far as the eye<br />
can see, millions of native trees<br />
that are indigenous to the area<br />
with endless bushwalks of sheer<br />
beauty that will give you muscles<br />
that you never knew you had.<br />
It’s not often that we are<br />
speechless but as we drop<br />
our bags in the living room of<br />
The Boathouse we don’t know<br />
whether to turn left or right or<br />
just stare straight ahead at the<br />
spectacular coastline.<br />
There is something impossibly<br />
romantic about a place that<br />
changes with the wind or hour of<br />
the day. During a sudden storm<br />
one afternoon the sun fled, the<br />
trees shook before a gusting wind<br />
sent waves crashing over the<br />
coastal wall and soon a torrent<br />
of rain enveloped the property.<br />
Then just as abruptly the storm<br />
ended the sun reappeared, the<br />
turquoise was restored to the<br />
sea and the terraced lawns were<br />
greener than ever. This is such a<br />
special place where you want<br />
for nothing except perhaps for a<br />
hand fill of your closest friends to<br />
share the experience with.<br />
The food is the responsibility<br />
of Head Chef Jackie Smith who<br />
pursues a predominantly modern<br />
yet classic French approach with<br />
menu combinations of tastes<br />
and textures supplemented with<br />
their own outstanding in-house<br />
garden and farm produce.<br />
From fresh fruit and vegetables<br />
to free-range eggs and locally<br />
caught fish and farmed meats<br />
the daily menu offers a taste<br />
of magic that lingers on. The<br />
freshness and balance of flavours<br />
is a document of her passions<br />
captured in highly worked plates<br />
united with a rare finesse that<br />
will keep your taste buds alive.<br />
Her smarts are well showcased<br />
with imaginative and enduring<br />
food over breakfast lunch and<br />
dinner. Alternatively for those that<br />
want self-catering you have the<br />
option of bringing in your own<br />
ingredients. Either way this is an<br />
engaging feature and part of the<br />
of the overall package.<br />
And then there’s the wine. As<br />
winemaking gets more and more<br />
sophisticated it has never been<br />
more important for a new winery<br />
to be able to stand out from the<br />
crowd. Northland is one of our<br />
newest wine growing regions<br />
and has come a long way since<br />
wines were first nurtured back in<br />
the eighties. Forty years on and<br />
the industry today has grown<br />
from three wineries to over sixty<br />
producing some exceptional<br />
value for money award winning<br />
wines.<br />
The diversity of Northlands<br />
unique climate and coastal<br />
soils allows for a wide range of<br />
grapes grown with chardonnay,<br />
sauvignon blanc, syrah, pinot gris,<br />
viognier, rose and chambourcin<br />
making a presence. Whilst New<br />
Zealand’s wine trail has a wealth<br />
of wine riches there has been a<br />
dramatic expansion of vineyard<br />
holdings throughout Northland<br />
who are pushing the boundaries<br />
and stealing the march on their<br />
southern competitors.<br />
Peter Cooper born and bred<br />
in Kaitaia and a lover of wine<br />
is the latest entrant to join<br />
Northlands growing wine trail.<br />
Prior to choosing The Landing's<br />
site on the Purerua Peninsular<br />
Peter was a corporate lawyer in<br />
Auckland before moving to the<br />
USA as a property developer. His<br />
enthusiasm for fine wine resulted<br />
in the initial planting of pinot gris,<br />
chardonnay and syrah and with<br />
the assistance of Rod McIvor<br />
of Marsden Estate fame and<br />
Ben Byrne and Warren Gibson<br />
64<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
The Landing | Feature<br />
winemakers extraordinaire the<br />
winery today is producing some<br />
of the country’s finest wines.<br />
But what makes The Landing’s<br />
wines really different is Ben’s<br />
combinations of grape varieties<br />
the most notable being<br />
Vino Rosso a common wine<br />
throughout Italy. Dominated with<br />
sangiovese and montepulciano<br />
grapes this adventurous wine is<br />
blended with cabinet franc and<br />
merlot that makes this a food<br />
friendly wine.<br />
We meet up with Keith Barker at<br />
the cellar door to taste our way<br />
through barrels of chardonnay.<br />
The savoury style of Ben’s wines<br />
are evident. The new oak is<br />
kept from a minimum to the<br />
underlying and for those that<br />
like their chardonnay they were<br />
fresh, vibrant and finely balanced<br />
showing great richness with<br />
instant appeal.<br />
Making our way into the<br />
rammed earth tasting room we<br />
get to sample the syrah, pinot<br />
gris and rose and get into lively<br />
discussion about various wines<br />
styles. So many wines all with<br />
loads of character that all taste<br />
so different.<br />
It’s almost time to return to<br />
the real world but not before we<br />
Ben Byrne Winemaker.<br />
meet with Laura Moreno Guest<br />
Service Manager for a personal<br />
tour of the villas.<br />
Cooper Residence<br />
Perched on the headlands<br />
with 360-degree views of the<br />
ocean and countryside this is<br />
the largest of the four residences<br />
with five bedrooms, intimate<br />
corners and spacious living.<br />
and entertainment areas, floor<br />
to ceiling windows complete<br />
with inside and el fresco dining<br />
enhanced with one of New<br />
Zealand’s largest collection of<br />
Maori artefacts. Once inside<br />
we’re immediately impressed<br />
with the natural architectural<br />
elements with each room<br />
leading to another perhaps more<br />
rewarding than the last.<br />
Gabriel Residence<br />
Situated above the tranquil<br />
waters of the bay below the<br />
residence features four equal<br />
status king bedrooms all with<br />
spectacular views. Also included<br />
are four self-contained indoor<br />
living areas including a full size<br />
billiard table for the boys, a library<br />
and an enormous dining area<br />
ideally suited for entertaining or<br />
hosting corporate events.<br />
Cooper Residence.<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
65
Feature | The Landing<br />
The Boathouse.<br />
Vineyard Villa<br />
Built quietly alongside the<br />
vineyards with a more rural feel<br />
the villa boasts magnificent<br />
vistas across the property and<br />
out to sea. With two equal status<br />
king bedrooms and a spacious<br />
master on-suite the living quarters<br />
are open yet intimate with<br />
spacious outdoor entertainment<br />
where guests can enjoy al fresco<br />
dining alongside the infinity<br />
swimming pool.<br />
from Russell, Paihia and Waitangi.<br />
Taste of The Landing<br />
$250pp<br />
A two-and-a-half hour tour with<br />
a tour of the vineyard with wine<br />
tasting and a gourmet platter.<br />
Cellar Door Lunch $450pp<br />
A four-and-a-half hour tour with<br />
a tour of the vineyard with barrel<br />
tasting and a two course lunch<br />
served with two glasses of wine.<br />
We say our goodbyes and<br />
board Iti Rangi for our 20 minute<br />
journey back to Waitangi. In<br />
true style The Landing influence<br />
reached its highest levels with<br />
great wine, great food and a<br />
sense of deep relaxation of doing<br />
nothing!<br />
The Boathouse<br />
Inspired by the original<br />
woolshed on the water’s edge<br />
with two gorgeous bedrooms<br />
with one in the loft. The earthy<br />
scent of the macrocarpa<br />
pervades, vaulted ceilings,<br />
flagstone tiles and floor to ceiling<br />
sliding cedar doors that open<br />
from all sides to three separate<br />
outdoor living areas. The open<br />
fire place, pizza oven and large<br />
BBQ make this a fitting place to<br />
entertaining a crowd.<br />
If this is all too much to absorb<br />
on offer are two wine tasting tours<br />
departing daily by a private boat<br />
Vineyard Residence.<br />
Purerua Peninsula is the first chapter in New Zealand’s history as a nation of Maori and European. In 1814<br />
this is where Reverent Samuel Marsden and his missionaries arrived and settled under the protection of<br />
Chief Ruatara. It is also the place where the first grapes in New Zealand were planted.<br />
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<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
The Landing | Feature<br />
Gabriel Residence.<br />
Discover The Landing Wines<br />
The Landing invites you to discover<br />
the beauty and spirit of one of<br />
New Zealand’s most magical places<br />
through a sensory wine experience at<br />
its hilltop winery and vineyard, now<br />
open to the public for the first time.<br />
Travel by our private boat to the<br />
calm waters of Wairoa Bay, where<br />
you will explore the vineyard and<br />
our state-of-the-art winery through<br />
a guided tasting. Enjoy a gourmet<br />
grazing platter or a beautiful twocourse<br />
lunch prepared by our chef<br />
before returning to your departure<br />
point by boat.<br />
For more information on our experiences,<br />
visit thelandingwine.co.nz<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
67
The Wine Rack<br />
Feature | Food & Wine<br />
By Dennis Knill, wine writer<br />
There’s a lot more<br />
to Northland<br />
than first seems.<br />
Geographically<br />
speaking the Far<br />
North is one of the<br />
most stunning parts of New<br />
Zealand recognised as a<br />
tourist friendly destination<br />
not for its wine.<br />
As one of our newest<br />
wine growing regions<br />
Northland has come a long<br />
way since wines were first<br />
nurtured in the eighties.<br />
Back then there were three<br />
wineries now there’s over<br />
sixty with many producing<br />
outstanding award winning<br />
wines. The diversity of climate<br />
allows for a wide range of<br />
grapes grown ranging from<br />
chardonnay, sauvignon<br />
blanc and syrah to pinot<br />
gris, viognier, rose and<br />
chambourcin.<br />
The New Zealand wine<br />
trail has a wealth of wine<br />
riches with over five-hundred<br />
wineries stretching from<br />
Kaitaia in the north to<br />
Central Otago in the south.<br />
Leading the way are the<br />
large player’s in the value for<br />
money stakes and between<br />
them boutique and smaller<br />
scale operators producing<br />
lower volumes.<br />
While Hawkes Bay,<br />
Marlborough and Central<br />
Otago are the main wine<br />
producers with established<br />
grape combinations<br />
one of the most notable<br />
developments has been<br />
the dramatic expansion<br />
of vineyard holdings<br />
throughout Northland who<br />
are beginning to steal the<br />
march on their southern<br />
competitors.<br />
It would be amiss to<br />
think of Northland as the<br />
industry innovators but<br />
in their own way they are<br />
pushing the boundaries with<br />
exceptional value for money<br />
wines. Recent plantings<br />
by Owen Glenn at Wiroa<br />
Station, Kainui Road and<br />
The Landing are helping to<br />
cement Northlands future.<br />
With much to see, taste<br />
and experience, Northlands<br />
cellar doors are filled with<br />
enthusiastic winemakers<br />
who love to share their<br />
passion for hand crafted<br />
wines.<br />
Here are three you should<br />
include on your itinerary.<br />
Ake Ake Vineyard and<br />
RestauranT<br />
On emigrating from Jersey in<br />
the Channel Islands in 2004<br />
John Clarke and Aynsley<br />
Quenault purchased a small<br />
block of land readily planted<br />
with grapes. Although John<br />
comes from a long family<br />
history of wine merchants<br />
his knowledge of growing<br />
grapes and making wine<br />
was limited so he borrowed<br />
library books to learn the<br />
skills of wine making.<br />
John’s first attempt of<br />
producing wine was an<br />
immediate success winning<br />
68<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Food & Wine | Feature<br />
a medal. Motivated by his<br />
achievements John acquired<br />
more land with grapes sourced<br />
from other growers to produce<br />
even more wine. In 2012 the<br />
winery began a process of<br />
converting from chemicals to<br />
organic and in 2015 was the first<br />
winery in Northland to be fully<br />
organic certified.<br />
Visitors can taste wines at<br />
the cellar door located inside<br />
the bistro restaurant which is a<br />
great place to enjoy lunch or<br />
dinner. Wineries need welcoming<br />
restaurants serving simple well<br />
priced food and restaurateurs<br />
Chris and Judy Owen offer<br />
diners a choose-your-own<br />
culinary adventure and a dining<br />
experience of highly worked<br />
dishes that will not disappoint.<br />
Marsden Estate<br />
Moving to Kerikeri in 1992 Rod<br />
and Cindy MacIvor purchased<br />
a kiwi fruit orchard before<br />
deciding to create their own<br />
winery. In making that decision<br />
they already knew the best thing<br />
about Kerikeri was the sense of<br />
pride and the community spirit<br />
amongst the people who live<br />
here. They knew if they combined<br />
this with their mission to make the<br />
best wines in Northland this new<br />
venture would surely not fail.<br />
From planting their first grapes<br />
in 1993 it was only five years<br />
before they won their first medal,<br />
a silver<br />
at the Royal Easter Show.<br />
Fast forward fifteen years and<br />
today Rod is a living icon of the<br />
Northland wine trail producing<br />
a range of wines that has<br />
expanded from chardonnay,<br />
pinot gris and syrah as their<br />
primary vintages to merlot,<br />
pinotage, muscat, chambourcin<br />
and tempranillo.<br />
Visitors can taste their entire<br />
range at the cellar door seven<br />
days a week and if food is on<br />
your list there’s a restaurant<br />
serving lunch and dinner from<br />
a menu designed by Dale<br />
Gartland their in-house chef of<br />
Cape Kidnappers and Kauri<br />
Cliffs fame.<br />
The Landing Winery<br />
Deep in history the rolling<br />
vineyards sit where it is thought<br />
the first grapes were grown in<br />
New Zealand. Two-hundredyears<br />
on and today alongside<br />
a coastal paradise and native<br />
forest on the Purerua Peninsular<br />
$30<br />
2019 Marsden<br />
Estate viognier Produced from<br />
an opulently textured grape<br />
originally from Rhone Valley in<br />
France this relatively new wine<br />
is gaining popularity.<br />
Medium to full bodied and<br />
predominantly dry with<br />
delicately balanced soft<br />
acids that delivers a rich<br />
structured finish giving this<br />
wine lots of legs.<br />
$30<br />
2019 Ake Ake organic<br />
chambourcin reserve<br />
Deep in ruby hues this easy<br />
drinking wine comes with an<br />
interesting umbrella of ripe fruit,<br />
earthiness, spice and great<br />
flavour that is nicely balanced<br />
with herbaceous aromas<br />
and light tannins. A great<br />
crowd pleaser.<br />
$27<br />
2019 Ake Ake organic<br />
sauvignon blanc vermentino<br />
A rare but interesting well<br />
balanced duet blended with<br />
Sardinian grapes. Fresh and vibrant<br />
with a hint of added aroma and<br />
lively herbaceous flavours have<br />
been rounded off with a<br />
freshness on the palate<br />
that is long and crisp.<br />
$31<br />
2020 Marsden Estate<br />
pinot gris<br />
This young, lush mouth filling,<br />
fruit driven wine is ripe and<br />
flavoursome with layers of fresh<br />
citrus zest and a fruity bouquet<br />
that delivers great balance<br />
and complexity to match<br />
a wide range of foods.<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
69
Feature | Food & Wine<br />
$48<br />
2019 The Landing chardonnay<br />
Subtlety with power that’s<br />
refreshing and full bodied<br />
displaying deep vibrancy with finely<br />
balanced with herbaceous fruity<br />
flavours that are rich and crisp as<br />
to be expected from a wine at<br />
this price point. Will take some<br />
beating<br />
the winery is one of the most<br />
exquisite developments to take<br />
place in the region. It was to<br />
be Peter Cooper a visionary<br />
Northlander born and bred in<br />
Kaitaia who carefully chose<br />
the site. Prior to purchasing the<br />
land Peter had a successful<br />
$27.50<br />
2019 The Landing<br />
Vino Rosso<br />
This unique blended wine is<br />
common throughout Italy. Oozing<br />
with rich aromatics with clean<br />
concentrated flavours combined<br />
with balanced acidity and long<br />
fine tannins make this an<br />
excellent food friendly wine.<br />
Ready to drink now<br />
career as a corporate lawyer in<br />
Auckland before moving into<br />
property development in the USA.<br />
Although Peter still resides<br />
in Los Angles his passion for<br />
wine resulted in a plan to<br />
establish one of the best grape<br />
growing areas in Northland.<br />
In the short space of 20 years<br />
with the able assistance of Rod<br />
McIvor followed by Ben Byrne<br />
and Warren Gibson winemakers<br />
extraordinaire the winery has<br />
produced some outstanding<br />
award winning wines.<br />
FURTHER INFORMATION:<br />
Personalised daily wine tours<br />
are available from:<br />
• Total Tours: info@totaltours.co.nz<br />
• Bay of Islands Tours:<br />
info@bayofislandstoursco.nz<br />
70<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Wine industry<br />
worth $571m to Marlborough<br />
Close to one fifth of all economic<br />
activity in Marlborough is generated<br />
from the wine industry, according to<br />
a recent report.<br />
the significant economic role<br />
wine plays within the region and<br />
demonstrates how important it is<br />
that the wine industry successfully<br />
responds to challenges like Covid-<br />
19, the labour shortages that<br />
have struck leading into vintage<br />
<strong>2021</strong> and for what is looming as a<br />
potentially tight labour supply for<br />
winter grape pruning.<br />
The report by the<br />
New Zealand<br />
Institute of<br />
Economic<br />
Research<br />
(NZIER) was<br />
commissioned by Wine<br />
Marlborough Ltd and<br />
highlights the role the<br />
wine industry plays in<br />
the continued economic<br />
growth of Marlborough.<br />
NZIER says 18 percent<br />
of all of Marlborough’s<br />
economic activity in<br />
2020, a total of $571<br />
million, can be attributed<br />
to the wine industry.<br />
The wine industry<br />
directly and indirectly fills<br />
one in every four jobs in<br />
the Marlborough region.<br />
NZIER says the wine<br />
industry accounts for<br />
2,750 jobs in the region<br />
and another 3,338 jobs<br />
are indirectly supported<br />
by the industry, far greater<br />
than any other sector<br />
investigated.<br />
In terms of wages,<br />
$171 million from both<br />
grape growing and wine<br />
production ends up in<br />
Marlborough household’s<br />
pockets. NZIER says<br />
that equates to more<br />
than 14 percent of total<br />
household income in<br />
Marlborough during<br />
2020.<br />
Wine Marlborough<br />
General Manager<br />
Marcus Pickens says<br />
the findings highlight<br />
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE TRIPS & GET A FREE BROCHURE WITH UNIQUE ITINERARY
Tastings | New World<br />
Leveret Estate<br />
Hawke’s Bay<br />
Chardonnay<br />
2019<br />
This New World Wine<br />
Awards Top 50 winner<br />
should still be available<br />
for the next few months.<br />
Pale yellow with white<br />
peach and balanced<br />
vanilla oak, the palate<br />
is creamy with ripe<br />
stone fruit and a striking<br />
tension between fruit,<br />
acidity and tannins,<br />
creating a seductive<br />
harmony.<br />
RRP: $24.99<br />
New at<br />
New World<br />
tasting <strong>Autumn</strong><br />
As the weather cools it’s<br />
time for those classic<br />
<strong>Autumn</strong>al drops – wines<br />
that match perfectly<br />
with the last of the<br />
barbeques as well as<br />
the first rich stews and comforting<br />
pastas. This is the time for the prized<br />
food-pairing varieties of Chardonnay<br />
and Pinot Noir to shine.<br />
And for more good news… despite<br />
all the challenges of the past year,<br />
it delivered outstanding wines. Here<br />
we share some of the best – from the<br />
2020 New World Wine Awards Top<br />
50 and from the most recent 2020<br />
vintage, which has been widely hailed<br />
as one of the country’s best.<br />
Te Pā<br />
Chardonnay<br />
2020<br />
Several prior vintages<br />
have made the Top<br />
50 and this one looks<br />
poised to follow. The<br />
winemaker’s notes<br />
describe it as an<br />
enigmatic and complex<br />
Chardonnay with<br />
beguiling undertones<br />
of smoky driftwood,<br />
almond pastry and a<br />
spicy musk weaved<br />
with citrus blossom and<br />
stone fruit aromas.<br />
RRP: $24.99<br />
72 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
New World | Tastings<br />
Mission<br />
Estate Winery<br />
Hawke’s Bay<br />
Chardonnay<br />
2020<br />
The newest vintage<br />
from NZ’s oldest<br />
commercial vineyard<br />
should be hitting<br />
shelves now and with<br />
many prior medals,<br />
2020 is sure to please<br />
too. The nose has<br />
spicy, smoky and<br />
toasty aromas and<br />
the palate is rich and<br />
quite buttery, all with<br />
a fresh, clean and<br />
persistent finish.<br />
RRP: $15.99<br />
The Crater<br />
Rim ‘From the<br />
Ashes’ Pinot<br />
Noir 2020<br />
The next iteration<br />
of a Top 50 winner,<br />
this youthfully<br />
attractive and<br />
beautifully fragrant<br />
wine shows sweet<br />
plum, cherry, mixed<br />
spice and floral<br />
aromas, leading<br />
to a wonderfully<br />
supple palate<br />
that’s rounded and<br />
succulent.<br />
RRP: $24.99<br />
Borthwick<br />
‘Paper Road’<br />
Pinot Noir<br />
2019<br />
Get in quick for the<br />
last of this Goldmedal<br />
wine from the<br />
small, high-quality<br />
wine region of<br />
Gladstone. Perfumed<br />
cedar, ripe black<br />
cherry and tamarillo<br />
fruit aromas extend<br />
through the palate,<br />
giving a gentle<br />
complexity to this<br />
rich, polished wine.<br />
RRP: $23.99<br />
Mount Brown<br />
Estates Pinot<br />
Noir 2020<br />
This small winery in<br />
North Canterbury<br />
operated by a<br />
father and daughter<br />
team has won<br />
numerous accolades<br />
in the New World<br />
Wine Awards. The<br />
winemaker says this<br />
wine is very supple<br />
and approachable<br />
showing complex<br />
aromas of mum’s<br />
home bottled plums<br />
and preserved<br />
cherries. The palate<br />
is generous and soft<br />
with lovely texture<br />
and poise.<br />
RRP: $22.99<br />
Wines are available in selected New World stores while stocks last.<br />
Find out more at www.newworld.co.nz/discover/wine<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
73
Feature | Over the moon<br />
The Softies<br />
OMG TRIPLE CREAM BRIE<br />
Silver Medal, New<br />
Zealand Champions of<br />
Cheese Awards 2019<br />
Voluptuous and creamy, this decadent Brie is our<br />
most popular cheese. Soft and rich, the OMG Triple<br />
Cream Brie has a luscious buttery flavour.<br />
Lovely on a cheese platter or antipasto plate.<br />
Wine match: Chardonnay, Pinot Gris or Champagne.<br />
Available in 150g wedge (C01), 270g square (C03) or<br />
1kg wheel (C04).<br />
Seasonally available in small heart shape at approx.<br />
160g (C02).<br />
BLACK TRUFFLE BRIE<br />
by Neil Willman<br />
Best New Zealand Cheese,<br />
International Cheese Awards,<br />
Nantwich 2017<br />
A signature cheese by international cheese judge and<br />
Cheese Master Neil Willman.<br />
Our OMG Brie with a layer of dark truffle paste. This cheese<br />
has a rich musky aroma and earthy flavour.<br />
Best alone on a cheeseboard where this unusual cheese<br />
can be the star.<br />
Wine match: Champagne, Merlot or Pinot Noir.<br />
Available in a 100g wedge (C06) or 1kg wheel (C07).<br />
CAMEMBERT<br />
Bronze Medal, New<br />
Zealand Champions of<br />
Cheese Awards 2016<br />
Our Camembert is Normandy style, made with a<br />
much gentler and more ancient process than other<br />
modern Camembert’s. Delicate mushroomy notes<br />
add to the earthy aroma and taste of this cheese.<br />
Available in 120g round (C08) or 1kg wheel (C09).<br />
Wine match: Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, or Oaked<br />
Chardonnay.<br />
74 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Over the moon | Feature<br />
AROHA<br />
Gold Medal, New<br />
Zealand Champions of<br />
Cheese Awards 2019<br />
Aroha is a new Camembert style cheese from<br />
Over the Moon. A delicious creamy cheese with all<br />
the complexity and range of flavour of a raw milk<br />
camembert ingeniously made from pasteurized<br />
milk.<br />
Aroha is a brilliant cheeseboard centre piece.<br />
Wine match: Pinot Noir, Dry Cider, or Pinot Gris.<br />
Available in a 120g wedge (C10 PP) or 1kg wheel (C11).<br />
APOLLO TURMERIC BRIE<br />
Silver Medal, New Zealand<br />
Champions of Cheese<br />
Awards 2018<br />
An exciting celebratory signature cheese by<br />
international cheese judge and CheeseMaster<br />
Neil Willman released to mark a decade of<br />
cheesemaking by Over the Moon Dairy Company.<br />
Apollo Turmeric Brie has a soft white rind and bright<br />
yellow past. The flavour is subtle, aromatic and<br />
earthy, well-balanced Turmeric, with light notes of<br />
ginger and pepper. A fabulous, on trend, stand-out<br />
star on your cheeseboard.<br />
Wine match: Gewurztraminer.<br />
Available in a 120g wedge (C65 PP) or 1kg wheel (C64).<br />
DOUBLE DELIGHT BRIE<br />
Blend of Cow’s cream and Goat’s milk<br />
Bronze Award, International<br />
Cheese Awards, Nantwich,<br />
UK, 2018<br />
A buttery Brie balanced with a tangy Goat flavour.<br />
Double Delight is a melt in the mouth blend of<br />
Goat’s milk and Cow’s cream.<br />
Wine match: Merlot or sweet fruity white wines.<br />
Available in a 115g wedge (CG12) or 1kg wheel (CG13).<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
75
Feature | Over the moon<br />
GOAT CAMEMBERT<br />
Silver Medal, New Zealand<br />
Champions of Cheese Awards<br />
2010 & Bronze 2016<br />
Goat Camembert has a delicate flavour when<br />
young and ripens quickly developing an earthy<br />
tangy flavour with age. As the pearly white paste<br />
matures it changes from firm to silky and smooth.<br />
Wine match: Light and fruity red wines.<br />
Available in a 115g wedge (G28) or 1kg wheel (G29).<br />
Softies - washed rinds<br />
GALACTIC GOLD<br />
Available in a 100g half square (C14), 200g square (C15) and 1kg square (C16).<br />
Category Trophy and<br />
Gold Medal, New Zealand<br />
Champions of Cheese<br />
Awards 2019<br />
A show stopper with a vibrant orange rind and<br />
piquant flavour. Galactic Gold is a winner on any<br />
cheese board. As this cheese matures the paste<br />
changes from soft to creamy and melting and the<br />
aroma intensifies.<br />
A great addition to a cheese platter Galactic Gold<br />
is also delicious in salads and quiches or on its own<br />
as a fabulous dessert with dried fruit.<br />
Wine match: Pinot Gris, late harvest Riesling, or<br />
Pinot Noir .<br />
BURGUNDY MOON<br />
Gold Medal, New Zealand<br />
Champions of Cheese<br />
Awards 2019<br />
Burgundy Moon has a mottled black rind which<br />
has been washed with grape skins and seeds left<br />
from wine making. This gives a fruity, earthy flavour<br />
to the decadently creamy centre. The paste is<br />
characteristic of a classic Over the Moon cheese,<br />
full flavoured and golden with a hint of grapes.<br />
Delicious with a crusty baguette or plain crackers,<br />
Burgundy Moon is a stand out cheese on your next<br />
cheeseboard.<br />
Wine match: Merlot, Riesling, or fruity wines.<br />
Available in a 100g wedge (C17) or 1kg wheel (C18).<br />
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<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Over the moon | Feature<br />
Fresh<br />
RICOTTA<br />
Gold Medal, New Zealand<br />
Champions of Cheese<br />
Awards 2019<br />
A versatile ingredient and delicious on its own this<br />
fresh cheese has a slightly sweet taste and contains<br />
a low 13% fat. Like many fresh cheeses, it is highly<br />
perishable and is best eaten within a few days of<br />
opening the container.<br />
Wine match: Sweet wines with dessert dishes<br />
Available in 300g vacuum packed bags (C19).<br />
FRESH GOAT CURD<br />
Bronze Medal, New Zealand<br />
Champions of Cheese<br />
Awards 2016<br />
Moist with a mild but tart fresh goat milk flavour<br />
this curd is rind-less and off-white in colour. It also<br />
contains much less salt than many other goat milk<br />
cheeses.<br />
Our favourite way to eat it is moulded into a roll<br />
then sprinkled with herbs and drizzled with extravirgin<br />
olive oil – sliced and served with crackers or<br />
bread.<br />
Wine match: Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, or<br />
Sparkling wine.<br />
Available in 150g (G30), 500g (G31) or 1kg vacuum packed bags (G32).<br />
HALLOUMI<br />
Gold Medal, New Zealand<br />
Champions of Cheese<br />
Awards 2019<br />
Our Halloumi is softer than usual and deliciously<br />
salty. A frying or grilling cheese, Halloumi holds its<br />
shape when heated becoming crisp and golden<br />
on the outside with a delicately soft inside.<br />
Wine match: Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, or Pinot Gris.<br />
Available in approximately 150g square (C33).<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
77
Feature | Over the moon<br />
the blues<br />
CREAMY BLUE<br />
Gold Medal, New Zealand<br />
Champions of Cheese<br />
Awards 2019<br />
Smooth, rich and decadently creamy with a sharp<br />
blue bite. Velvety in texture with a piquant 'blue'<br />
taste and a soft finish Creamy Blue is an all-round<br />
beautiful blue cheese.<br />
Wine match: Merlot or Port.<br />
Available in a 130g wedge (C21), 300g wedge (C21), 1kg disc (C21), ½ wheel (C21) or 3-3.5kg full wheel (C22).<br />
GOAT BLUE<br />
Bronze Medal, New Zealand<br />
Champions of Cheese<br />
Awards 2010<br />
A crumbly blue vein, Goat Blue has a beautifully<br />
balanced tangy goat flavour with hints of<br />
sweetness.<br />
Wine match: Marlborough Pinot Noir or Port.<br />
Available in a 130g wedge (G23), 1kg disc (G23), ½ wheel (G23) or 3-3.5kg full wheel (G24).<br />
WILLTON<br />
by Neil Willman<br />
Bronze Medal, New Zealand<br />
Champions of Cheese<br />
Awards 2019<br />
Another signature cheese by international cheese<br />
judge and Cheese Master Neil Willman and<br />
designed especially for Over the Moon. This is our<br />
deluxe blue and the flavour is well balanced, strong<br />
and complex. The cheese is firm with a creamy<br />
mouth feel. It’s slightly crumbly when young and is<br />
peppery with a slightly salty finish. The paste is ivory<br />
with lots of deep blue veins.<br />
Available in 130g wedge, 300g wedge, 1kg disc, ½ or full wheel (33.5kg)<br />
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<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Over the moon | Feature<br />
Semi-hard cheese<br />
RED PLANET<br />
Rich orange in colour Red planet is our take on the<br />
traditional English Red Leicester cheese. Cheddar<br />
like in flavour with a touch more acidity this cheese<br />
is ideal as a table cheese, for grating or grilling, and<br />
as part of a cheese platter.<br />
The colour is derived from the natural colouring<br />
annatto.<br />
Wine match: Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot or Beer.<br />
Available in a 100g wedge (C36) or 13kg wheel (C37).<br />
Additional cuts available by request and include 1kg wedge (C36) and ½ wheels (C36).<br />
JUST KIDDING<br />
Just kidding is a rind-less semi-hard 100% goat<br />
milk cheese. Pale ivory this cheese has a delicate<br />
aroma, sweet notes and a lingering finish.<br />
This cheese is perfect on a cheeseboard, and melts<br />
making it an excellent garnish on a warm dish.<br />
Wine match: Pinot Gris, late harvest Riesling,<br />
Pinot Noir.<br />
Available in a 100g wedge (G38) or 6kg wheel (G39).<br />
Additional cuts available by request and include 1kg wedge (G38) and ½ wheels (G38).<br />
THE BLACK SHEEP<br />
Unique Ossau-Iraty Style semi-hard Sheep<br />
milk cheese.<br />
by Neil Willman<br />
Inspired by the Basque region in Spain. The smoked<br />
paprika on the rind gives it a smoky flavour, and the<br />
cheese is fruity and nutty with a creamy texture and<br />
ivory white interior.<br />
At 10 months old, this cheese has developed into a<br />
well-rounded cheese which lends itself to a cheese<br />
platter, or grilling.<br />
Wine match: Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot.<br />
Available in 100g wedges (S48) or 3.5kg wheel (S49)<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
79
Feature | Over the moon<br />
WENSLEYDALE WITH<br />
CRANBERRIES<br />
Christmas release<br />
Seasonal releases<br />
This lovely celebration cheese is pale white with a<br />
firm paste. The slightly sweet flavour has subtle floral<br />
characteristics, enhanced by the addit ion of tart<br />
red cranberries.<br />
In England it’s traditionally eaten with Christmas<br />
cake sheer indulgence! This cheese is perfect<br />
a s part of your special Christmas entertaining<br />
cheeseboard .<br />
Wine match: Port and Oak aged whiskey.<br />
Available in a 100g wedge (C42) or contact us to order your special size (C42).<br />
O.M.G. TRIPLE CREAM<br />
BRIE HEART<br />
These pretty hearts are released seasonally at<br />
Valentine’s Day and Mothers day and can be<br />
made on request.<br />
Voluptuous and creamy, this decadent Brie is our<br />
most popular cheese. Soft and rich, the OMG Triple<br />
Cream Brie has a luscious buttery flavour.<br />
Lovely on a cheese platter or antipasto plate.<br />
Wine match: Chardonnay, Pinot Gris<br />
or Champagne.<br />
Over The Moon Dairy Co.<br />
33 Tirau Street, Putaruru 3411<br />
Phone +64 7 8838 238<br />
Fax +64 7 8838 235<br />
Orders @ overthemoondairy.c0.nz<br />
www.overthemoondairy.co.nz<br />
80<br />
<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Lyre's | Feature<br />
Lyre’s a winner<br />
Launched<br />
in Australia<br />
in July 2019,<br />
Lyre’s Non-<br />
Alcoholic<br />
Spirits is a<br />
range of<br />
13 alcoholfree<br />
classic<br />
spirits and<br />
three recently<br />
launched premixed<br />
RTDs.<br />
Inspired in 2017 by Mark<br />
Livings, he saw the<br />
challenges of balancing a<br />
professional life as MD of a<br />
successful business with the<br />
need to stay social at the<br />
same time. This was a broader<br />
trend he recognised and saw<br />
in his team, especially when the<br />
no or low alcohol drink options<br />
always involved a compromise.<br />
He asked the question–how<br />
can we all stay social, without<br />
compromising taste?<br />
Lyre’s was created so social<br />
people looking for more mindful<br />
options could still enjoy a<br />
sophisticated drink. With Lyre’s,<br />
any bartender or at home drinker<br />
can transform the rich world of<br />
mixed drinks and cocktails into<br />
low or non-alcoholic versions. By<br />
reaching for a Lyre’s, you have<br />
the building blocks of many of<br />
the world’s favourite drinks or your<br />
own creation.<br />
Lyre’s is crafted using allnatural<br />
essences, extracts and<br />
distillates to match the aroma,<br />
taste and appearance of the<br />
traditional spirit, without using<br />
alcohol as a base. The finest allnatural<br />
essences extracts and<br />
distillates from around the globe<br />
are blended with Lyre’s very own<br />
proprietary non-alcoholic base<br />
liquid.<br />
American Malt.<br />
Now with a global footprint in<br />
over 40 countries, Lyre’s continues<br />
to drive non-alcoholic category<br />
growth. The trend towards more<br />
mindful drinking is becoming the<br />
norm, and ‘Dry Jan’ and ‘Feb Fast’<br />
seem to be merging into one<br />
long alcohol-free period for some<br />
consumers. With the moderation<br />
movement sweeping across<br />
key global markets, increased<br />
demand for sophisticated<br />
adult-beverage alternatives<br />
like the Lyre’s range has been<br />
observed also in all geographies,<br />
underlining the trend is both<br />
disruptive, and global.<br />
Lyre’s is also now the most<br />
decorated non-alcoholic spirit<br />
brand globally, receiving 11<br />
medals at the 2020 San Diego<br />
International Wine & Spirits<br />
Challenge and 10 awards at<br />
the 2020 San Francisco World<br />
Spirits Competition. The collection<br />
was also honoured at the 2019<br />
SommCon’s Concours d’Spirits<br />
competition presented by Somm<br />
Journal, where Aperitif Rosso<br />
received a double gold when<br />
tasted against its alcoholic<br />
counterparts.<br />
Passionstar Martini.<br />
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />
81
Food | Food & Wine Events<br />
Food & Wine Events<br />
Marlborough wine group<br />
region major events<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
Wine and Food Festival<br />
(February)<br />
Young winemaker of the year<br />
(September)<br />
Cellarbration<br />
(October)<br />
Cellar door of the year<br />
(October)<br />
Wine Show<br />
(October)<br />
EVENTS FOR THE REST OF NEW ZEALAND<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
➽<br />
Central Otago Pinot Noir<br />
Celebration<br />
(January- February)<br />
North Canterbury Wine and Food<br />
Festival (Waipara Valley)<br />
(March)<br />
Hokitika Wildfoods Festival<br />
(March)<br />
Bluff Oysters Food Festival<br />
(May)<br />
Hawkes Bay Wine and Food<br />
(June)<br />
Wellington on a Plate<br />
(August)<br />
Whitianga Scallop Festival<br />
(September)<br />
Toast Martinborough<br />
(November)<br />
Waiheke Wine and Food Festival<br />
(Date unknown)<br />
Craggy Range<br />
(November)<br />
Taste of Auckland<br />
(November)<br />
Pinot Noir New Zealand<br />
Christchurch<br />
(February 2022)<br />
Wellington Wine & Food Festival<br />
(February)<br />
North Canterbury Wine &<br />
Food Festival<br />
(March)<br />
Wairarapa Wines Harvest Festival<br />
(May)<br />
Ripe Festival Wanaka<br />
(March)<br />
These are mostly annual events with dates being as accurate as possible.<br />
Please Google for updates as they are posted by organizers of events.<br />
82 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>