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NZ WineNew Zealand's<br />

<strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong> $9.90<br />

favourite wine magazine<br />

MARLBOROUGH<br />

CELLAR DOORS<br />

THAT SHOULD NOT BE MISSED<br />

NZD $9.90<br />

Tastings reveal a new Pinot Noir region…<br />

Also…A lesson in cheese with wine


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Contents<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong><br />

<strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />

IN THIS ISSUE<br />

CONTRIBUTORS<br />

Martin Gillion, Daniel Honan,<br />

Anne-Marie Nansett, Louis Pierard,<br />

John Saker, Charmaine Smith,<br />

Vic Williams.<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

Courtesy of Winenz.com<br />

Richard Brimer<br />

DESIGN<br />

Spinc Media<br />

PUBLISHERS<br />

Colin Gestro<br />

027 256 8014<br />

colin@affinityads.com<br />

Joan Gestro<br />

joanlucy47@gmail.com<br />

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES<br />

Jax Hancock<br />

06 839 1705<br />

jax.affinityads@gmail.com<br />

WEBSITE<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

SUBSCRIPTIONS<br />

i-subscribe.co.nz<br />

Or via 280 retail outlets<br />

including all Supermarkets.<br />

Now celebrating over 30,000<br />

readers per issue.<br />

PUBLISHER<br />

www.affinityads.com<br />

Publishers of: Active Seniors,<br />

Superbrands, Dive NZ, Wine NZ,<br />

Seniors and Travel Expo.<br />

PO Box 13257 Tauranga 3141<br />

COVER PHOTO:<br />

So many stories, so much learning to<br />

do at Marlborough cellar doors.<br />

8 MARLBOROUGH CELLAR<br />

DOORS<br />

A rundown on the latest<br />

trends and who’s who.<br />

18 APPELLATION<br />

MARLBOROUGH<br />

Protecting and proving real<br />

identity of origin.<br />

20 METHODE<br />

MARLBOROUGH<br />

A registered society<br />

protecting provenance.<br />

Plus a recent event.<br />

23 WINE AND TIME<br />

More news and views.<br />

18<br />

27 NEW RELEASES<br />

Don’t miss these.<br />

29 TASTING WINNERS<br />

The Pinots show their paces.<br />

Blind tastings led by Simon<br />

Nash MW.<br />

46 GIBBSTON VALLEY<br />

What’s to visit and enjoy,<br />

all amongst that graphic<br />

Central Otago landscape.<br />

6 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Contents<br />

46<br />

56<br />

8<br />

56 AMISFIELD<br />

On the Pisa slopes and now<br />

organic; a must to visit.<br />

62 THE LANDING<br />

Northland’s new look winery,<br />

perfect vine romance.<br />

72 NEW WORLD<br />

What’s newly ranging in New<br />

World Supermarkets.<br />

62<br />

74 Cheese with Wine<br />

Try these perfect match ups<br />

with wine..<br />

81 ‘LYRES CHOICE’<br />

An introduction to<br />

non-alcohol drinks.<br />

82 Events<br />

What’s on, in and around<br />

New Zealand.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

7


Feature | Marlborough Wine Trail<br />

Marlborough<br />

wine trail<br />

identifies<br />

wines that<br />

should not<br />

be missed<br />

Cellar doors catering for all<br />

tastes, from fresh, zesty sauvignon<br />

blanc to fine, rare and older<br />

wines of many styles, from artisan<br />

winemakers to slick corporate<br />

producers, from gourmet food to<br />

simple platters in the vineyard, not<br />

to mention the famous sunshine<br />

that produces all these goodies, all<br />

this makes Marlborough an ideal<br />

place to visit next summer.<br />

Charmian Smith explores the<br />

Marlborough wine trail and<br />

recommends wines that shouldn’t<br />

be missed.<br />

T<br />

here’s a plethora of<br />

cellar doors to visit in<br />

the sunny Wairau valley<br />

west of Blenheim. The<br />

region is so vine-friendly<br />

that vineyards now<br />

spread over the river plains, up<br />

into the southern valleys, south<br />

over the hills into the Awatere<br />

valley and even further south<br />

down the coast to Blind River and<br />

Ward.<br />

Not surprisingly, there are<br />

numerous cellar doors to visit<br />

which, along with the sunny, dry<br />

climate, makes Marlborough a<br />

delight for anyone interested in<br />

wine, whether for the pleasure<br />

of enjoying a glass or two with<br />

food in congenial surroundings<br />

or exploring the many styles and<br />

varieties the region has to offer.<br />

Marlborough of course is<br />

known for its sauvignon blanc,<br />

not only in its regular crisp fruity<br />

style but also for alternative barrel<br />

fermented styles that open a<br />

whole new aspect on the variety.<br />

Pretty well every cellar door<br />

offers a sauvignon blanc or<br />

two but don’t assume they are<br />

all alike. Although many are<br />

blended from vineyards around<br />

the region, each subregion has<br />

it’s own characteristics and wine<br />

buffs will want to explore single<br />

vineyard wines to distinguish<br />

between the greener, crunchier<br />

sauvignon from the Awatere, the<br />

fleshier mouthfeel of sauvignon<br />

grown in the southern clays and<br />

the tropical fruit flavours from the<br />

vineyards nearer the sea.<br />

But there’s much more than<br />

sauvignon to explore here. Try<br />

the lively chardonnays, the<br />

fragrant pinot gris, racy rieslings,<br />

savoury pinot noirs many with<br />

characteristic hints of omega<br />

plums, and, of course, the<br />

stylish bubblies, not forgetting<br />

the pale, fresh, charming rosés.<br />

Increasingly you’ll also find some<br />

less common varieties well worth<br />

sampling - albariño, grüner<br />

veltliner, viognier, gewürztraminer,<br />

pinot blanc, peppery syrah,<br />

malbec and montepulciano.<br />

Older vintages and library stock<br />

are a bonus in several tasting<br />

rooms.<br />

8<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Marlborough Wine Trail | Feature<br />

Such is the prestige of<br />

Marlborough that several<br />

European winemakers have been<br />

attracted to establish boutique<br />

wineries here, Daniel Le Brun<br />

of No 1 Family Estate, the Swiss<br />

Fromm family, Hans Herzog, the<br />

Bourgeois family at Clos Henri<br />

and Edel Everling of Johanneshof.<br />

Most of their vineyards are closely<br />

planted with low vines European<br />

style.<br />

Several of the huge<br />

multinationals also have large<br />

wineries here, among them<br />

Constellation, Lion Nathan,<br />

Pernod Ricard, Delegat, Fosters,<br />

LVMH, Treasury Estates and<br />

the Foley Family. Marlborough<br />

produces 70% of New Zealand<br />

wine, although much of it is<br />

sauvignon blanc exported in<br />

bulk.<br />

Most vineyards in the Wairau<br />

Valley near Blenheim and<br />

Renwick are on stony alluvial<br />

soils, some with more silt than<br />

others, while the southern valleys<br />

and hillsides, including Brancott,<br />

Omaka, Benmorven and<br />

Waihopai valleys, have clay soils<br />

which are favoured for pinot noir.<br />

Cellar doors vary from small,<br />

where you may get to talk to<br />

the winemaker, to large and<br />

corporate. Don’t overlook<br />

producers whose products you<br />

might find in supermarkets such<br />

as Villa Maria or Saint Clair,<br />

because their cellar doors show<br />

their reserve and single vineyard<br />

wines which are at the top of<br />

the game. A few wineries also<br />

have vineyards in Hawkes Bay or<br />

Central Otago and these wines<br />

are often available for tasting too.<br />

Most offer platters to enjoy<br />

with a glass of wine in pleasant<br />

surroundings, and there are a few<br />

restaurants offering full lunches:<br />

Saint Clair, Wither Hills and Wairau<br />

River, with Rock Ferry and Cloudy<br />

Bay reopening their restaurants<br />

next summer. All are busy, so it’s<br />

advisable to book a table ahead.<br />

Most wineries make a small<br />

charge for tasting which is usually<br />

waived if you buy wine and some<br />

offer more intimate and luxurious<br />

wine and food experiences,<br />

particularly Cloudy Bay and Hans<br />

Herzog.<br />

If you don’t have time to visit<br />

as many wineries as you’d like<br />

or want to sample wines that<br />

don’t have cellar doors, you can<br />

indulge your tastebuds at the<br />

Wine Station in the Blenheim<br />

railway station opposite the iSite.<br />

Cycling round vineyards is<br />

popular, especially in Renwick<br />

where there are several cellar<br />

doors within a small area and<br />

tour operators will pick up any<br />

wine you’ve bought. Informative<br />

small-group wine tours are also<br />

available, or you can drive<br />

yourself. For general information<br />

visit marlboroughnz.com/<br />

visit or newzealand.com/nz/<br />

marlborough.<br />

Lawson’s Dry Hills<br />

Ross and Barbara Lawson<br />

were among the pioneer<br />

Marlborough wine growers as<br />

the huge gnarled trunks of the<br />

vines alongside its modest tasting<br />

room and winery attest. These old<br />

vines are responsible for Lawson’s<br />

famous gewürztraminer, fragrant<br />

with rose petals and hints of<br />

lavender, luscious yet fresh. It’s<br />

just the drop to sit back and<br />

luxuriate with - summer or winter.<br />

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Feature | Marlborough Wine Trail<br />

Nigel Whittaker at the cellar<br />

door usually has six or more<br />

wines available to taste, and it’s<br />

fascinating to compare the white<br />

label estate wines with the more<br />

complex reserve wines. Lovers of<br />

creamy, nutty, oaky chardonnay<br />

should not miss the reserve,<br />

made in the style the late Ross<br />

Lawson loved.<br />

Lawson’s Dry Hills is the closest<br />

cellar door to Blenheim and<br />

offers simple platters or you can<br />

bring your own lunch to enjoy in<br />

the courtyard along with a glass<br />

of wine - and the view of the Dry<br />

Hills behind.<br />

lawsonsdryhills.co.nz<br />

Josh Scott winemaker of Allan Scott.<br />

Lawson’s Dry Hills - don’t miss the<br />

gewürztraminer.<br />

Wither Hills<br />

The imposing tasting room on<br />

a hillock above the road offers<br />

stylish food matched with wine in<br />

the restaurant and wisteria-lined<br />

courtyard.<br />

You will find some of its<br />

supermarket wines here,<br />

including the easy drinking,<br />

lower alcohol (9.5%) Early Light<br />

range, but wine aficionados will<br />

want to taste the single vineyard<br />

and cellar collection wines and a<br />

few that are only available here.<br />

For me the highlight was the<br />

Rarangi Riesling 2011. At nine<br />

years old it was reminiscent<br />

of buttered toast and lime<br />

marmalade, intense, long<br />

and harmonious, an excellent<br />

example of how a good riesling<br />

will develop over several years.<br />

Wither Hills’ stylish restaurant and<br />

tasting room.<br />

For something different try the<br />

Legado a fortified pinot noir,<br />

rather like a port.<br />

witherhills.co.nz<br />

Allan Scott Family<br />

Winemakers<br />

A real family affair, siblings Josh<br />

and Sarah Scott, have taken<br />

over the business from their<br />

parents, Allan and Catherine<br />

Scott, founders of the eponymous<br />

winery.<br />

They are raring to put in place<br />

their plans for the cellar door<br />

and casual bistro with simple<br />

food. The distinctive building is<br />

full of nooks and crannies, sunny<br />

windows, cosy alcoves by the fire<br />

or intimate mezzanine spaces.<br />

Wine tasting here is self-service<br />

thanks to Enomatic machines<br />

which dispense tastings, half or<br />

full glasses of wine while keeping<br />

it fresh with inert gas. Get a card<br />

at the counter and help yourself<br />

to whatever you’ll like to try.<br />

When I called it had only just<br />

opened but Josh assures me that<br />

there will be information about<br />

the wines and staff will be able to<br />

answer any questions.<br />

The whole range of Scott<br />

wines is available, including the<br />

Scott Base wines from Central<br />

Otago and the premium reserve<br />

Eli Chardonnay and Pinot Noir<br />

named after Josh’s severaltimes-great<br />

grandfather, the first<br />

Scott to come to New Zealand.<br />

But it’s the affordable estate<br />

range of wines that typify the<br />

straightforward varietals that put<br />

Marlborough on the wine map.<br />

The sauvignon blanc is<br />

typically fresh, aromatic with a<br />

hint of apple and citrus; riesling is<br />

intensely lemony and perfumed;<br />

and pinot gris oozes stone fruit.<br />

You can compare Hawkes Bay<br />

and Central Otago chardonnays,<br />

including the full-on, oaky buttery<br />

caramel Scott Base reserve (his<br />

mother’s favourite style) and<br />

likewise the Marlborough and<br />

Central Otago pinots.<br />

allanscott.com<br />

Cloudy Bay<br />

Cloudy Bay is one of the<br />

best internationally known<br />

Marlborough brands. Part of<br />

the luxury goods group LVMH,<br />

they offer several varieties of<br />

wine and food experience,<br />

from tastings and vineyard<br />

tours to foraging expeditions,<br />

a couple of days sailing in the<br />

Marlborough Sounds or luxury<br />

accommodation in their stunning<br />

Shack.<br />

Luxury at Cloudy Bay.<br />

10<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Marlborough Wine Trail | Feature<br />

The understated but<br />

stylish cellar door is currently<br />

undergoing renovation but<br />

both it and Jack’s Raw Bar will<br />

be open in summer. Besides the<br />

exemplary sauvignon blanc and<br />

chardonnay, hidden gems in<br />

the tasting room usually include<br />

some older vintages, including,<br />

when I called, a 16 year old<br />

sauvignon blanc. Only well-made<br />

sauvignon will develop with age<br />

and this was deliciously matured<br />

from its lithe, minerally, pungent,<br />

citrus youth to a still fresh, richer,<br />

fuller dry white with aromas of<br />

thyme honey.<br />

Cloudy Bay was the first<br />

Marlborough winery to produce<br />

a barrel fermented sauvignon,<br />

Te Koko, pungent, textural, broad<br />

and complex. Many have<br />

emulated it since but theirs is<br />

still one of the benchmarks. An<br />

interesting comparison is to<br />

compare their two pinot noirs,<br />

the plummy spicy Marlborough<br />

and the darker flavoured, silky<br />

textured, structured Te Wahi from<br />

Central Otago.<br />

cloudybay.co.nz<br />

Something old and something new<br />

at Jackson Estate.<br />

Jackson Estate<br />

If you thought the early settlers<br />

shack built into the streamlined<br />

red winery at Jackson Estate<br />

looked like something from The<br />

Lord of the Rings you wouldn’t be<br />

far wrong. One of their designers<br />

developed the concept for this<br />

wonderful example of collision<br />

architecture. Old iron from the<br />

1860s Jackson homestead has<br />

been used in the (apparently)<br />

ramshackle chimney, but inside<br />

the tasting room is sleekly<br />

modern with an atmospheric<br />

tasting cellar downstairs.<br />

Like all Marlborough producers<br />

they make several sauvignon<br />

blancs - don’t miss my favourite,<br />

the black label Somerset Block<br />

2 Sauvignon Blanc 2017, a<br />

complex, vibrant wine made<br />

almost in a Bordeaux style and<br />

ideal with food.<br />

However, unusually for<br />

Marlborough, Jackson specialises<br />

in pinot noir and produces<br />

several fine ones from the<br />

southern clays which they hold<br />

for a few years before release.<br />

2016 Vintage Widow pinot noir<br />

is one well worth trying, fragrant,<br />

textural with a hint of toffee and<br />

toast - the 2015 won the best<br />

pinot noir in the 2019 IWSC wine<br />

show in London. My favourite,<br />

however, was the 2014 Somerset<br />

pinot noir, complex, textural<br />

savoury with underlying notes<br />

of berry coulis and a lingering<br />

aftertaste.<br />

jacksonestate.co.nz<br />

Forrest<br />

Tucked behind vineyards<br />

along the Golden Mile cycle<br />

trail is Forrest’s relaxed tasting<br />

room. John and his daughter<br />

Beth, now general manager and<br />

winemaker, have developed the<br />

Doctors’ naturally lower alcohol<br />

wines (9.5% as opposed to the<br />

usual 13-14%), achieved by<br />

tweaking the viticulture so they<br />

retain varietal character.<br />

Don’t miss The Doctors Rosé, a<br />

deliciously fresh, fragrant and dry<br />

summer wine.<br />

There are some unusual<br />

varieties such as albarino and<br />

petit manseng for wine buffs<br />

Beth and John Forrest - innovative<br />

wines.<br />

to explore but you certainly<br />

shouldn’t miss the rare Tatty<br />

Bogler wines from the Waitaki<br />

region - John was one of the<br />

pioneering planters there in<br />

the 1990s. The Tatty Bogler<br />

Chardonnay 2018, with rich<br />

fruit, ripe nectarines and a long<br />

savoury finish is a gem and a fine<br />

example of what the capricious<br />

Waitaki region can produce in<br />

good years.<br />

forrest.co.nz<br />

Clos Henri’s tasting room is in a<br />

little wooden church on a hill.<br />

Clos Henri<br />

Clos Henri’s tasting room, a<br />

little wooden church on a hillock<br />

surrounded by low, close-planted<br />

vines, is a stunning site and one<br />

that could well renew the interest<br />

of tasters bored with the general<br />

run of Marlborough sauvignon.<br />

From a family of 10 generations<br />

of winemakers in Sancerre,<br />

France, Remi and Jean-Marie<br />

Bourgeois started planting their<br />

Marlborough vineyards in 2001<br />

after a long search for a place<br />

they could make premium<br />

sauvignon blanc and pinot<br />

noir as they did - and still do - in<br />

Sancerre.<br />

The 110 ha vineyards are<br />

on three different soil types,<br />

greywacke river stones and<br />

Broadbridge clay on the flats and<br />

Wither clay on the hill slopes.<br />

Although they grow only<br />

sauvignon and pinot they make<br />

several different wines, Petit Clos a<br />

blend of all the terroirs, Bel Echo,<br />

Clos Henri and “secret cuvées”<br />

Clay and Stones, that distinctly<br />

show how sauvignon blanc can<br />

manifest on the different soil<br />

types - the ripe stone fruit and<br />

nettles, and crisp complexity<br />

of the 2016 Clay and the more<br />

tropical, juicy harmony and<br />

complexity of the 2016 Stones.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

11


Feature | Marlborough Wine Trail<br />

It’s also interesting to compare<br />

their Henri Bourgeois Sancerre les<br />

Baronnes 2018, a light but intense<br />

and dry French sauvignon.<br />

closhenri.com<br />

Fromm<br />

I still remember the first time I<br />

visited Fromm many years ago.<br />

My palate was jaded from visiting<br />

several wineries with similar<br />

wines but I felt I had to do this<br />

last one before finishing for the<br />

day. I’m glad I did because I was<br />

blown away by the intensity and<br />

structure of their superb pinot<br />

noirs. Since then they have gone<br />

from strength to strength, still with<br />

the same winemaker, Hatsch<br />

Kalberer.<br />

Although it produces fine<br />

whites, the Swiss owned family<br />

winery still excels at pinot noir<br />

from its low, close-planted vines.<br />

There are several single vineyard<br />

pinots but the Clayvin pinot noir<br />

is its flagship, one of the finest<br />

Marlborough pinots, fragrant,<br />

spicy, silky-textured, dark fruited<br />

with fine-grained, dusty tannins.<br />

Also charming is the Cuvée H, a<br />

blend of its three vineyards.<br />

Malbec is rare in Marlborough<br />

but Fromm’s 2015 is deliciously<br />

dense with silky ripe fruit and<br />

supple dusty tannins.<br />

Sadly they have pulled out<br />

their gewürztraminer vines but<br />

still have some of their luscious<br />

late harvest 2018, obstreperously<br />

fragrant, intense, sweet but so<br />

well balanced you’d almost<br />

think it was dry. I almost cried<br />

Winemakers Cullen Neal and Joe Trappitt will show you through their<br />

wines at Sugar Loaf.<br />

when general manager Stephan<br />

Walliser told me that was their last<br />

vintage.<br />

frommwinery.co.nz<br />

Sugar Loaf<br />

A retro wine tasting experience<br />

awaits those who venture down<br />

the lane to Sugar Loaf in the<br />

heart of the Rapaura vineyards.<br />

There one of the enthusiastic<br />

young winemakers will take you<br />

through the wines in the no-frills<br />

tasting room separated from<br />

the winery by a screen of barrel<br />

staves. In a region where there<br />

are more sauvignon blancs<br />

than you’d want to taste, theirs<br />

is one of the more delicious,<br />

fresh but balanced, oozing ripe<br />

passionfruit and tropical fruits.<br />

They also make a lovely riesling,<br />

fragrant with lime and peaches,<br />

again with a precise balance -<br />

not too sharp and not too sweet<br />

but all in harmony.<br />

sugarloafwines.co.nz<br />

Te Whare Ra<br />

At this small family owned<br />

winery you’ll encounter a<br />

couple passionate about their<br />

winemaking and their organic<br />

vineyard, the oldest still growing<br />

in Marlborough. Phone ahead,<br />

ring the bell at their no-frills cellar<br />

door and one of the winemakers<br />

will show and explain their<br />

intense, harmonious wines.<br />

Wine’s whole purpose is to be<br />

delicious, says Anna Flowerday,<br />

and their exquisitely balanced<br />

and charming wines certainly<br />

are. Their aromatic varieties<br />

particularly stand out: the fresh,<br />

fragrant, Toru 2020, a blend of<br />

riesling, gewürztraminer and<br />

pinot gris ideal for summer<br />

Excelling at pinot noir - Fromm’s<br />

wines are unforgettable.<br />

Anna and Jason Flowerday in the buckwheat Te Whare Ra.<br />

12<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Marlborough Wine Trail | Feature<br />

drinking; the fleshy, racy old vine<br />

“D” riesling 2018; and the intense,<br />

tight 2019 gewürztraminer, one of<br />

the best in Marlborough.<br />

twrwines.co.nz<br />

Hunter’s: a glorious garden for<br />

summer lunches or just to enjoy a<br />

glass of wine.<br />

Hunter’s Wines<br />

One of the earliest vineyards<br />

in Marlborough, Hunters put the<br />

region on the world wine map<br />

when it won the top award at<br />

the Sunday Times Wine Festival in<br />

London three years in a row from<br />

1986 to 1988. Their sauvignon<br />

blanc today is still fragrant<br />

and crisp, oozing passionfruit,<br />

capsicum and grapefruit, but<br />

I was intrigued by their stylish,<br />

barrel fermented 2018 grüner<br />

veltliner and their creamy, nutty<br />

Offshoot 2018 chardonnay.<br />

Offshoot is a new label that<br />

allows the young winemakers to<br />

experiment with new techniques<br />

and presentation.<br />

The tasting room is in a<br />

renovated farmhouse surrounded<br />

by a sheltered garden and a<br />

native plant walk, a lovely place<br />

for a platter and glass of wine.<br />

hunters.co.nz<br />

Virginie le Brun shows the elegant<br />

traditionally made sparkling wines<br />

of No 1 Family Estate.<br />

No 1 Family Estate<br />

With a family heritage of<br />

making Champagne in France,<br />

Daniel le Brun planted his<br />

first vineyard here in 1980 to<br />

make sparkling wine and soon<br />

established a reputation for<br />

rich, yeasty wines. While the<br />

eponymous label sill exists,<br />

Daniel and his Kiwi wife Adele<br />

establish No 1 Family Estate in<br />

1996 and now their children<br />

Virginie and Remy are taking<br />

over the business. In their bijou<br />

tasting room covered in virginia<br />

creeper you may taste several of<br />

their precise, elegant methode<br />

traditionelle wines from the crisp,<br />

dry Assemblé (chardonnay<br />

and pinot noir) through the<br />

nutty, yeasty non-vintage Cuvée<br />

No 1 blanc de blancs, to the<br />

delicate, pale pink non-vintage<br />

rosé. Be sure to taste any of the<br />

reserves or special cuvées if<br />

they’re available to see different<br />

manifestations of intensity,<br />

elegance and charm.<br />

no1familyestate.co.nz<br />

Samantha White and Peter Jackson<br />

winemaker of Whitehaven.<br />

Whitehaven Wines<br />

A bright tasting room in the<br />

Vines Village in Rapaura Rd<br />

showcases Whitehaven’s pristine<br />

wine, much of which is exported<br />

to the US. They like New Zealand<br />

sauvignon blanc there, says<br />

Samantha White, daughter of the<br />

founders Greg and Sue White,<br />

and their fragrant, ripe sauvignon<br />

oozing bright capsicum and<br />

passionfruit flavours is just the<br />

style Americans enjoy. But I loved<br />

the fresh, tingly 2017 riesling that<br />

hints of mandarins and dances<br />

on the tongue. There’s also a<br />

delicious 2018 noble riesling<br />

exuding dried apricot and honey,<br />

sweet but harmonious with a<br />

clean textural finish.<br />

whitehaven.co.nz<br />

Individualist but outstanding wines<br />

(and brandy) are to be found at<br />

Johanneshof.<br />

Johanneshof<br />

There’s a Germanic feel to<br />

Johanneshof’s rustic tasting room<br />

along the Picton road and the<br />

small pinot noir vineyard climbing<br />

a steep hill behind. Beneath is<br />

a narrow tunnel dug to store<br />

wine, especially their sparkling<br />

wine and maturing brandy. It’s<br />

not surprising given one of the<br />

partners, Edel Everling hails<br />

from the Rhine. She, Warwick<br />

Foley and his wife Rachel make<br />

a surprisingly large number of<br />

rich, silky wines from various<br />

Marlborough vineyards which<br />

they usually age for a year or two<br />

before releasing.<br />

Their sparkling wines are held<br />

on lees for nine years which<br />

develops rich biscuity flavours.<br />

The recently disgorged Emmi<br />

2011 is nutty, seamless and crisply<br />

dry, while the New Dawn 2010<br />

rosé is beautifully creamy and<br />

textured.<br />

Their much-awarded, perfumed<br />

gewürztraminer is sweet and<br />

rich with a fresh finish. This variety<br />

takes time to develop and come<br />

into its own, Warwick says.<br />

After tasting these and the<br />

chardonnay, riesling and pinot<br />

noir, for something different try<br />

Edelbrand, an aged brandy - the<br />

oldest components date from<br />

1991 - with a lingering aftertaste<br />

of almonds and toast.<br />

johanneshof.co.nz<br />

Spy Valley<br />

This large family owned winery,<br />

named for the international<br />

satellite communications station<br />

further up the Waihopai valley,<br />

produces a range of pristine<br />

varietals as clean, bright and<br />

fresh as its modern tasting room<br />

and function centre.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

13


Feature | Marlborough Wine Trail<br />

The Simonds are a welcoming<br />

couple - their tasting room is<br />

a converted garage on the<br />

edge of the vineyard beside the<br />

Gibson creek.<br />

gibsonbridge.co.nz<br />

Spy Valley’s sunny cellar door.<br />

Look carefully and you may<br />

detect discrete morse code<br />

messages etched into the<br />

building and on its wine labels,<br />

playing on the spy theme.<br />

Their flagship sauvignon blanc<br />

oozes apples, mineral, lime,<br />

herbs and passion fruit with a<br />

racy, mineral finish; their reserve<br />

Envoy 2015 sauvignon blanc is a<br />

delightfully funky example of this<br />

barrel fermented style. Riesling<br />

lovers shouldn’t miss the 2016<br />

riesling, at four years old oozing<br />

lime marmalade and buttered<br />

toast, or the lively 2013 Envoy<br />

riesling, charming, mouthfilling<br />

and racy. Other gems are a<br />

fragrant, lively gewürztraminer<br />

and a peppery syrah.<br />

Blair Macdonald at Bladen.<br />

Bladen<br />

The Macdonalds love wines<br />

from Alsace so they chose to<br />

plant its varieties - pinot gris,<br />

riesling, gewürztraminer and<br />

pinot noir, on their stony vineyard<br />

in Conders Bend Rd. Then they<br />

realised they liked sauvignon<br />

blanc too and planted that -<br />

theirs is fragrant, textural and<br />

minerally.<br />

In fact all the wines of this<br />

small family producer are<br />

focused, fragrant, intense and<br />

delicious. I particularly enjoyed<br />

the intense, floral and crisp 2020<br />

gewürztraminer.<br />

The tiny tasting room is more<br />

of a garden kiosk on the lawn in<br />

front of the vineyard, but a lovely<br />

place to sit in summer and enjoy<br />

one of their platters, perhaps with<br />

their pale, dry rosé.<br />

bladen.co.nz<br />

Gibson Bridge<br />

This 2ha vineyard in Renwick is<br />

a retirement project for Howard<br />

and Julie Simonds. Their passion<br />

is pinot gris and they produce it<br />

in many styles, dry, sweet, barrel<br />

fermented, rosé. If you are lucky<br />

Howard may show you his rich,<br />

complex botrytised wines, really<br />

intense and finely balanced with<br />

a bright acidity and each year<br />

(2011, 2013 and 2014) with its<br />

own character.<br />

They also produce a powerful<br />

dry gewürztraminer - something<br />

for those who find some other<br />

gewürztraminers too overblown.<br />

Howard and Julie Simonds of<br />

Gibson Bridge produce pinot gris in<br />

many guises.<br />

Hans Herzog<br />

Wine buffs should not miss<br />

Hans and Theresa Herzog’s<br />

tasting room and bistro in the<br />

restored white cottages which<br />

also house their gourmet<br />

restaurant, wine lounge and<br />

vineyard accomodation, all<br />

surrounded by delightful formal<br />

gardens.<br />

The Swiss vignerons produce<br />

an astounding range of varietals<br />

from their 11ha vineyard - in<br />

less skilled hands this could be<br />

a recipe for disaster but Hans’<br />

perfectionist viticultural and<br />

winemaking skill ensure precise,<br />

harmonious wines with texture<br />

and structure that are distinctly<br />

European in feel. Most spend a<br />

year or more in oak then another<br />

in bottle in the cellar.<br />

Among an offering of some<br />

27 wines, I tasted a dry textural<br />

arneis, a 6-year-old lithe, racy<br />

riesling, a deliciously spicy,<br />

floral dry gewürztraminer, a<br />

silky tempranillo and the Spirit<br />

of Marlborough, an elegant<br />

Bordeaux blend of merlot and<br />

cabernet franc.<br />

Herzog also offers various<br />

exclusive tasting, tour, dining and<br />

accommodation options.<br />

herzog.co.nz<br />

HEIC Herzog’s charming gardens,<br />

cottage tasting room and restaurant,<br />

the home of perfectionist wines.<br />

Huia Vineyards<br />

Named after the now extinct<br />

bird whose white-tipped feathers<br />

were highly prized by Maori,<br />

Huia makes a small selection<br />

of beautifully balanced, almost<br />

14<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Marlborough Wine Trail | Feature<br />

Claire Allen of Huia and her<br />

beautifully balanced, almost<br />

understated wines.<br />

understated wines that repay<br />

some consideration and<br />

attention.<br />

Claire and Mike Allen are<br />

committed to organic production<br />

and vegan-friendly wines, using<br />

no animal products such as<br />

egg or isinglass to fine the wines.<br />

in summer their small, no-frills<br />

tasting room in the winery spills<br />

out into the forecourt.<br />

Don’t miss the delicious floral<br />

grüner veltliner full of charm<br />

and fruit - apple citrus - with a<br />

crisp finish. Claire describes it<br />

as a cross between pinot gris<br />

and riesling. A serious sauvignon<br />

blanc to change the mind of<br />

those who think they dislike<br />

the variety, the 2019 is mouth<br />

filling, textural and dry with<br />

hints of herbs and tropical fruit.<br />

Their sparkling brut rosé 2017<br />

is elegant with undertones of<br />

strawberries and nuts and a crisp,<br />

lingering finish - just the thing to<br />

relax with on a summer evening.<br />

huiavineyards.com<br />

Gnarled old vines at Saint Clair’s<br />

Vineyard Kitchen vineyard produce<br />

the fine, elegant Dawn sparkling wine.<br />

Saint Clair Family Estate<br />

Saint Clair’s Vineyard Kitchen<br />

and tasting room is surrounded<br />

by gnarled old vines that<br />

produce their flagship Dawn<br />

methode traditionelle. This was<br />

launched in 2014 to celebrate<br />

the 100th birthday of founder<br />

Neal Ibbotson’s mother, Dawn.<br />

While their bright, cheerful<br />

Origin and Vicar’s Choice wines<br />

are widely available, their cellar<br />

door showcases the top end<br />

reserve and pioneer block<br />

single vineyard wines from both<br />

Marlborough and Hawkes Bay.<br />

Their Marlborough whites are a<br />

particularly strong point.<br />

Saint Clair is known for its<br />

sauvignon blancs and their<br />

premium Wairau Reserve is<br />

among the best in Marlborough.<br />

The 2019 is fragrant, intense, ripe,<br />

fresh and beautifully balanced,<br />

oozing passionfruit, gooseberry,<br />

blackcurrant leaf, red capsicum.<br />

Definitely not to be missed.<br />

I also loved the fragrant,<br />

fresh, creamy 2015 Pioneer<br />

Block 5 grüner veltliner with a<br />

nutty hint from ageing on lees;<br />

the zesty 2018 Pioneer Block 9<br />

riesling, a spätlese (later harvest)<br />

style fragrant with lime, lemon,<br />

mandarin, low in alcohol, with its<br />

sweetness and and racy acidity<br />

held in a knife-edge balanced<br />

tension; and the Pioneer Block<br />

17 Hawkes Bay cabernet merlot,<br />

rich, ripe and soft, but with lipsmacking<br />

tannins.<br />

The Vineyard Kitchen restaurant<br />

is busy, and no wonder, with<br />

interesting local food, and a<br />

chef who really understands<br />

vegetables. Vegetarians and<br />

vegans as well as omnivores will<br />

find something enticing here.<br />

saintclair.co.nz<br />

Mount Riley Wines<br />

Mount Riley is unashamedly<br />

commercial, according to<br />

winemaker Matt Murphy. You’ll<br />

find their good value, fresh, fruitdriven<br />

wines in supermarkets<br />

(although they are cheaper at<br />

the cellar door and there’s no<br />

charge for tasting), but you can<br />

also taste wines you mightn’t<br />

have come across before like<br />

the fragrant gewürztraminer or<br />

Unashamedly commercial -<br />

winemaker Matt Murphy and his<br />

good value wines at Mount Riley.<br />

the juicy albariño. It’s also worth<br />

exploring their limited release<br />

wines, a fragrant, minerally<br />

sauvignon, a Central Otago<br />

pinot noir, and their premium<br />

Seventeen Valley range, such<br />

as the nutty creamy 2019<br />

chardonnay, and the spicy fresh<br />

2019 pinot noir.<br />

mtriley.co.nz<br />

Discover the pinnacle of Marlborough<br />

riesling at Framingham.<br />

Framingham<br />

Framingham is an essential<br />

visit for those wanting to explore<br />

the heights of Marlborough<br />

riesling and how well it can age.<br />

Besides the regular Marlborough<br />

varieties, sauvignon blanc, pinot<br />

gris, chardonnay and pinot noir,<br />

they make some of the country’s<br />

finest rieslings and usually have<br />

older vintages to compare.<br />

Don’t miss the premium F Series<br />

2019 old vine dry riesling, rich,<br />

weighty, textural and bone dry;<br />

the racy 2019 Select riesling with<br />

a knife-edge balance between<br />

sweetness and acidity; the<br />

charmingly fresh, harmonious<br />

and textural 2019 Classic<br />

riesling. Compare this with the<br />

2010 Classic riesling which<br />

has developed hints of lime<br />

marmalade and a fascinatingly<br />

dry, crunchy finish with a long<br />

aftertaste. To top this outstanding<br />

lineup, there’s the deliciously<br />

intense, harmonious 2019 Noble<br />

riesling oozing dried apricots, the<br />

epitome of this style.<br />

Make sure you try any library<br />

stock that cellar door manager<br />

Elgee Leung has open to see just<br />

how a well made riesling can<br />

develop with several years bottle<br />

age.<br />

Besides tastings, Framingham<br />

offers lunch platters matched<br />

with wine, a formal sheltered<br />

courtyard, art exhibitions and<br />

musical events.<br />

framingham.co.nz<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

15


Feature | Marlborough Wine Trail<br />

HEIC Dining under a pergola of<br />

vines at Wairau River.<br />

Wairau River<br />

Wairau River’s light, spacious<br />

restaurant and tasting room in<br />

a mud brick building with wide<br />

Australian style verandas, is a<br />

busy lunch destination on the<br />

Golden Mile cycle trail.<br />

With some of the oldest<br />

vineyards in Marlborough, the<br />

Rose family produces a range<br />

of fresh, vibrant, well-priced<br />

varietals in its estate range and<br />

stylish reserve wines from small,<br />

interesting parcels of fruit from<br />

their vineyards spread around<br />

the Wairau Valley.<br />

Their zesty sauvignon blanc<br />

is exemplary, as are pinot gris,<br />

chardonnay and rosé, but<br />

there are also some interesting<br />

rarer varieties to explore such<br />

as the exciting fresh grüner<br />

veltliner, the textural albariño; a<br />

deliciously fragrant but restrained<br />

gewürztraminer; a rich, orangezesty<br />

viognier, and a peppery<br />

syrah. The 2019 estate pinot noir<br />

is typically fragrant with hints<br />

of omega plums and savoury<br />

undertones.<br />

They aim to overdeliver, says<br />

CEO Lindsay Parkinson, one of<br />

the founder Phil and Chris Rose’s<br />

sons-in-law, and I’d have to agree<br />

that they do.<br />

wairauriverwines.com<br />

Nautilus Estate<br />

Nautilus cellar door.<br />

Nautilus is known for its refined<br />

methode traditionelle sparking<br />

wines and impeccable varietal<br />

wines.<br />

The vintage rosé 2016 is<br />

fragrant with hints of strawberries,<br />

elegant and crisply dry, while the<br />

non-vintage brut hints of honey<br />

and brioche.<br />

Their still wines are fragrant,<br />

precise, oozing fruit but with<br />

texture and lovely balance. Try<br />

the satisfying sauvignon blanc,<br />

rich pinot gris, and complex<br />

chardonnay, but don’t miss<br />

the delicious, albariño hinting<br />

of stonefruit and melon or the<br />

intense grüner veltliner with<br />

suggestions of fennel and green<br />

fruits.<br />

The Southern Valleys 2016<br />

pinot noir is beautifully mature,<br />

perfumed, spicy, silky with<br />

undertones of plums and dusty<br />

fine grained tannins on the<br />

finish, but compare it with the<br />

limited release pinots, the darker,<br />

almost dried-fruit character of the<br />

textural 2016 Clay Hills pinot and<br />

the more powerful, savoury 2016<br />

Awatere pinot.<br />

Nautilus’s simple tasting room<br />

with the barrel cellar visible<br />

through a window offers platters<br />

and outside tables.<br />

nautilusestate.com<br />

Rock Ferry Wines<br />

With a brand new tasting<br />

room showcasing its organic<br />

wines and its popular restaurant<br />

reopening next summer, Rock<br />

Ferry is one of the key cellar<br />

doors to visit.<br />

Tom and Fiona Hutchison<br />

planted their two Marlborough<br />

vineyards some 25 years ago,<br />

along with one in Bendigo,<br />

Central Otago at Trig Hill. Now<br />

Rock Ferry’s new tasting room next<br />

to its popular summer restaurant.<br />

they make their 3rd Rock estate<br />

wines, a series of single vineyard<br />

wines, and sparkling wine.<br />

My picks to taste: a fresh<br />

elegant nutty sparkling blanc de<br />

blanc; a crisp, dry, textural pinot<br />

blanc unusual in Marlborough;<br />

the Corners Vineyard 2014<br />

sauvignon blanc, gloriously<br />

fresh, with all the charm you<br />

expect from good sauvignon<br />

but with subtle oak - one of<br />

the”alternative” barrel fermented<br />

sauvignons that is enhanced<br />

rather than dominated by the<br />

oak. In marked contrast to the<br />

plum characters of Marlborough<br />

pinot noir, the Central Otago<br />

3rd Rock and Trig Hill pinots are<br />

richer, more spicy, cherryish and<br />

powerful. An unusual variety to<br />

try is the Spanish tempranillo also<br />

from Central Otago, soft, juicy,<br />

textural with a very dry finish.<br />

rockferry.co.nz<br />

Tupari<br />

Tupari’s tiny tasting room is in<br />

the ticket office of the former<br />

Seddon railway station in the<br />

Awatere valley about 25 minutes<br />

south over the hill from Blenheim.<br />

Olivia Turnbull Doonan, her family,<br />

and winemaker Glen Thomas<br />

planted their vineyard on the<br />

Turnbull family farm 25k up the<br />

Awatere river.<br />

Their wines are released after<br />

a few years bottle age. When I<br />

called they had a 2016 fragrant<br />

pinot gris, a charming, limy<br />

2016 riesling with a crisp tension<br />

between sweetness and acidity;<br />

and a 2016 sauvignon blanc,<br />

fragrant with suggestions of<br />

passionfruit and mineral which I<br />

found quite charming.<br />

Pink Pukeko rosé is fresh and off<br />

dry, ideal summer drinking.<br />

tupari.co.nz<br />

16<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


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03 574 2889


Feature | Appellation Marlborough<br />

APPELLATION MARLBOROUGH<br />

PROVENANCE FOR OUR MOST CELEBRATED WINE<br />

By Martin Gillion<br />

One of the<br />

biggest<br />

differences<br />

between the<br />

‘Old World’ wine<br />

producers of<br />

France, Italy, Spain and Germany,<br />

and we of the ‘New World’, `is the<br />

degree to which their industry is<br />

regulated.<br />

In France, vintners have to<br />

work within the parameters<br />

determined by their local<br />

commune or appellation. They<br />

may be restricted in the grape<br />

varieties they are allowed to<br />

grow, the time of harvest, the<br />

yields they are permitted and<br />

many more detailed rules and<br />

regulations.<br />

But strangely to our eyes, it is<br />

the commune and place that<br />

brands the wine and the varieties<br />

are seldom identified.<br />

So no planting Grüner Veltliner<br />

in Burgundy, nor Chianti in<br />

Bordeaux! And certainly no<br />

cropping of Sauvignon Blanc<br />

in the Loire Valley’s Sancerre at<br />

anything like the volumes some<br />

of our more prodigious vintners<br />

allow.<br />

It’s complicated for the casual<br />

wine buyer, but if you have got<br />

to terms with the individual<br />

commune requirements, you<br />

can rest assured that any wine<br />

labelled as Chablis will have met<br />

certain criteria of both place and<br />

production. If it is nominated as a<br />

Chablis Grand Cru, the controls<br />

determined by the Appellation<br />

D’origine Contrôlée<br />

will have been more restrictive.<br />

In the ‘New World’ we have<br />

enthusiastically embraced the<br />

freedom to do as we please.<br />

We can plant Müller Thürgau<br />

in Otago, if we really want to,<br />

and we can crop it at any level<br />

we wish. The only regulations<br />

apply to public health and<br />

wine making faults although<br />

the introduction of Geographic<br />

Ivan Sutherland,<br />

Appellation Chairperson<br />

Indicators has meant that some<br />

grape growing regions have<br />

been defined and thus the use<br />

of their title on a bottle is legally<br />

determined.<br />

But by and large it’s a situation<br />

that has suited our independent,<br />

pioneering heritage.<br />

However, it has disadvantages<br />

and risks. Disadvantages concern<br />

the perceived provenance of our<br />

wines and the risks come with the<br />

dilution of both the product and<br />

the reputation of our industry.<br />

In other countries fraud is also<br />

a problem. It is rumoured that in<br />

some countries, an empty bottle<br />

of a prestige wine, from a good<br />

vintage, is worth serious money!<br />

Over recent times, there has<br />

been increasing interest in the<br />

provenance of what we eat<br />

and drink. We demand that<br />

Canterbury lamb comes from<br />

Canterbury, that Hawke’s Bay<br />

apples are grown in the ‘Bay’ and<br />

that Marlborough wines come<br />

from the region in question.<br />

It’s a process that has been<br />

bolstered by our adoption of<br />

Geographic Indicators for many<br />

New Zealand wine regions.<br />

Marlborough is one of the most<br />

important.<br />

While that helps the<br />

Marlborough brand and certifies<br />

that the fruit is sourced from<br />

Marlborough, it does not provide<br />

any measure of quality.<br />

Nearly 50% of the region’s<br />

output is in bulk, often<br />

transported in bladders the size<br />

of a shipping container.<br />

As Ivan Sutherland,<br />

Chairperson of Appellation<br />

Marlborough, comments, “We’re<br />

not anti-bulk shipping perse.<br />

But once wine leaves the<br />

country in this manner there is<br />

no control. It may well be dilute<br />

wine from overcropped vineyards<br />

that nevertheless bears the<br />

18<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Appellation Marlborough | Feature<br />

Wine brand labels carry the Appellation Marlborough logo<br />

Marlborough brand or it could<br />

even be blended with non New<br />

Zealand wine on arrival but still<br />

marketed with the Marlborough<br />

label,”<br />

The Appellation Marlborough<br />

has devised some simple<br />

measures that would ensure<br />

the provenance and quality of<br />

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc,<br />

while not restricting the ability<br />

of other vintners to do as they<br />

please.<br />

THE DETAILS<br />

☛ Appellation Marlborough is<br />

an Incorporated Society with<br />

over 50 members who are<br />

now entitled to use the trade<br />

marked bottle sticker/logo on<br />

wines that fit the criteria.<br />

☛ Wines must be of Sauvignon<br />

Blanc from vineyards<br />

located 100% within the GI of<br />

Marlborough.<br />

☛ Wines must come from<br />

sustainable, certifiably<br />

managed vineyards.<br />

☛ Wines must be bottled in New<br />

Zealand.<br />

☛ Wines must fit the yield<br />

restrictions and parameters<br />

set by the committee each<br />

year according to the nature<br />

of the vintage.<br />

Note:<br />

☛ The Society is funded by<br />

the members together with<br />

revenue from a small charge<br />

for use of the logo on bottles.<br />

☛ While ‘Wine Marlborough’ is in<br />

general support of the move it<br />

has overarching responsibility<br />

for ALL Marlborough<br />

winemakers so is not directly<br />

involved.<br />

☛ The cropping parameters will<br />

be decided by the committee<br />

and any member can ask for<br />

their wines to be tested and<br />

tasted if this is in dispute.<br />

Ivan points out that their end<br />

game is consumer recognition.<br />

“We’ve already enacted publicity<br />

campaigns in all our major<br />

markets and the response<br />

from our distributors, both local<br />

and offshore, has been very<br />

encouraging.”<br />

John Buchanan (Treasurer)<br />

comments that many of our<br />

wine brands and regions need<br />

tighter controls. “At the moment<br />

Appellation Marlborough is<br />

concerned with the production<br />

of one grape variety in one<br />

geographic destination. But there<br />

is the opportunity to start looking<br />

at other areas and other varieties<br />

within the New Zealand industry.”<br />

Ivan sums up the feelings of the<br />

group. “The proposal has been<br />

under discussion for many years.<br />

The time to do it is now!”<br />

The registered society has more<br />

than 50 members and includes<br />

many of the iconic names<br />

associated with Marlborough<br />

over the years.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

19


Feature | Méthode Marlborough<br />

Méthode<br />

Marlborough<br />

By Martin Gillion<br />

In a similar vein<br />

to Appellation<br />

Marlborough,<br />

some 9 years<br />

ago, a number<br />

of Marlborough’s<br />

sparkling wine<br />

makers formed<br />

‘Méthode<br />

Marlborough’<br />

a registered<br />

society that<br />

aimed to protect<br />

the provenance<br />

and production<br />

of Marlborough<br />

wines made in<br />

the tradition of<br />

Chmpagne.<br />

Presently there is little<br />

that differentiates the<br />

various methods and<br />

processes regarding<br />

Marlborough sparkling<br />

wine, despite the<br />

region being by far the country’s<br />

largest regional producer in this<br />

category.<br />

Marlborough sparkling ranges<br />

from wines, many of them made<br />

from Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot<br />

Gris, where CO2 bubbles are<br />

gas infused, to those made<br />

by the Charmat method<br />

where secondary fermentation<br />

takes place in a pressurised<br />

stainless steel tank (think<br />

Lindauer and others), to<br />

wines made adhering<br />

to the traditions and<br />

processes of Champagne;<br />

processes that have been<br />

championed for more<br />

than forty vintages by<br />

Champagne-born Daniel le<br />

Brun of No1 Family Estate.<br />

More than a dozen<br />

quality producers have<br />

joined forces under<br />

the auspices of the<br />

Sociey to reassure the<br />

consumer that the<br />

Méthode wines they<br />

are buying follow<br />

the Champagne<br />

traditions.<br />

The society has<br />

now developed<br />

a ‘Méthode<br />

Marlborough’<br />

certification mark<br />

for bottle labels<br />

and already<br />

some producers<br />

are proudly<br />

proclaiming<br />

their ‘Méthode<br />

Marlborough’<br />

provenance on<br />

their front label<br />

branding.<br />

The rules:<br />

The Méthode Marlborough logo<br />

determines that…<br />

☛ The wines are made from<br />

the ‘classic’ Champagne<br />

varieties.<br />

☛ All fruit for the wine has come<br />

from Marlborough.<br />

☛ The wine has been processed<br />

and bottled in Marlborough.<br />

☛ The wines must have been<br />

aged on lees for a minimum<br />

of 18 months.<br />

Stop press:<br />

Méthode Marlborough Day<br />

– March 26th<br />

Méthode Marlborough<br />

has nominated this<br />

weekend as an annual<br />

recognition of the group’s<br />

wines and tells us that this<br />

year they will celebrate<br />

their foundation with<br />

an evening event; ‘An<br />

Evening With Méthode<br />

Marlborough’.It<br />

will be a ticketed,<br />

twilight, ‘progressive<br />

affair’ held at three<br />

locations where live<br />

entertainment a<br />

continuous wine<br />

and food service<br />

will accompany<br />

tastings of the<br />

best of the group’s<br />

sparkling wines.<br />

“It’s a bespoke<br />

evening not to<br />

be missed,” says<br />

Elena Vincent of<br />

No 1 Family Estate.<br />

“And the day<br />

will become a<br />

regular feature of<br />

Marlborough’s wine<br />

calendar.”<br />

20<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Methode Marlborough | Feature<br />

An Evening with<br />

Methode<br />

Marlborough<br />

The event had sold out and was a great evening. The<br />

format of visiting 3 locations and tasting four methode<br />

Marlborough wines at each was well received and the<br />

guests were a great mix of ages.<br />

HEARTS IN<br />

MARLBOROUGH<br />

since 1980<br />

ROOTS IN<br />

CHAMPAGNE<br />

since 1684<br />

NEW ZEALAND’S MÉTHODE<br />

TRADITIONELLE SPECIALIST<br />

21<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

No1FamilyEstate.co.nz


Sydney International Wine Competition<br />

announces return in <strong>2021</strong> with New Zealand<br />

wines and judges participating<br />

The Sydney International<br />

Wine Competition<br />

will return this year,<br />

after a hiatus in 2020,<br />

with entries being<br />

accepted from 12 July,<br />

and judging to take place in<br />

late October. Provisional award<br />

and trophy winners will be<br />

announced on 8 November <strong>2021</strong>.<br />

While the uncertainty of<br />

international borders precludes<br />

the appointment of judges<br />

from further afield, the <strong>2021</strong><br />

Competition will have a panel of<br />

13 highly credentialed judges,<br />

including four Masters of Wine,<br />

from Australia and New Zealand,<br />

chaired once again by Warren<br />

Gibson.<br />

Wines will be invited from<br />

across the globe, with entries<br />

capped at 2000, and – as is the<br />

stand-out difference with the<br />

Sydney International – the final<br />

400 wines will be set aside for<br />

re-judging with appropriate food,<br />

leading to about 250 wines being<br />

awarded Top 100, Blue Gold<br />

and Gold medals, along with 25<br />

trophies.<br />

In past years, up to 12 countries<br />

have been represented, featuring<br />

most of the major wine producers<br />

as well as smaller producers such<br />

as Georgia and Turkey.<br />

With no minimum production<br />

requirements, this show is<br />

particularly applicable to<br />

experimental and small makers<br />

to test their wines alongside<br />

wines from major producers.<br />

The Sydney International<br />

Wine Competition is the<br />

only international wine show<br />

that judges all its finalists in<br />

combination with suitable<br />

food dishes, to ensure that<br />

medal-winning wines are both<br />

technically excellent and relevant<br />

for consumers.<br />

Medal and trophy winners<br />

are featured on the website<br />

alongside judges’ comments<br />

and the dishes they were<br />

matched with.<br />

Full details of the competition’s<br />

<strong>2021</strong> schedule can be found<br />

at sydneywinecomp.com<br />

which contains full details of<br />

the judging criteria and judges’<br />

comments on all award winners<br />

from the previous competition.<br />

Co-convenor of the Sydney<br />

International Wine Competition,<br />

Brett Ling, said that given the<br />

difficulties faced by the wine<br />

industry over the past year, it<br />

was important for competitions<br />

such as the Sydney International<br />

to proceed to highlight to<br />

consumers the exceptional<br />

range of food-friendly wines<br />

available to be enjoyed at<br />

restaurants and at home.<br />

Bringing world class wines<br />

to the world since 1982.<br />

603 Rapaura Road, Blenheim, New Zealand<br />

Open Wednesday-Friday 9.30am – 5.30pm<br />

Hunters.co.nz @hunterswinesnz


Wine & Time The<br />

latest from New Zealand wine world<br />

Giesen Group launches<br />

New Zealand's first<br />

fruit wine seltzer<br />

Family-owned New Zealand<br />

company Giesen Group is<br />

positioning itself to claim a share<br />

of the world’s fastest growing<br />

liquor category with the launch<br />

of TINK - New Zealand’s first<br />

natural fruit wine seltzer.<br />

Made at Giesen’s Marlborough<br />

winery, creating TINK involves<br />

an innovative process of<br />

fermenting wine and natural fruit<br />

juice together, creating a light,<br />

refreshing sparkling seltzer.<br />

Giesen Group Marketing<br />

Manager Angela Flynn says<br />

TINK’s development began when<br />

looking at overseas market<br />

trends.<br />

“We kept a close eye on the<br />

growth of the seltzer category in<br />

the US and Australia and we had<br />

a sense that 2020/<strong>2021</strong> would<br />

be the ‘summer of seltzer’ in New<br />

Zealand. All the signs are there<br />

that it will be.”<br />

Globally, seltzer’s popularity has<br />

exploded in the past year. The<br />

sector is now worth over $2.1<br />

billion and expected to grow to<br />

$20.4 billion by 2027.<br />

TINK is Giesen’s first product<br />

outside of wine and beer. It<br />

is sold in 330ml cans in three<br />

flavours (Tropical, Berry Rose and<br />

Lemon & Lime).<br />

Angela Flynn says that while<br />

seltzer is new to New Zealand,<br />

its popularity will take off with<br />

consumers increasingly focused<br />

on their health and wellbeing –<br />

even when it comes to alcohol.<br />

“TINK is another example of<br />

Giesen spreading its wings<br />

and innovating to develop<br />

new products that align with<br />

growing trends for more mindful<br />

and moderate consumption<br />

– a future cornerstone of our<br />

business. TINK is<br />

low sugar, low<br />

carb, low calorie,<br />

gluten free with no<br />

added flavours – all<br />

attributes we know<br />

will appeal to New<br />

Zealanders.”<br />

Angela Flynn says<br />

the drive to wellness<br />

is also reflected in the popularity<br />

of Giesen 0% -Marlborough<br />

Sauvignon Blanc that launched<br />

in February 2020.<br />

“Our alcohol-removed<br />

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc<br />

was a world first product and<br />

sold out on launch in both New<br />

Zealand and Australia. In fact,<br />

we had so much demand for<br />

our pre-orders that it completely<br />

outstripped supply.”<br />

Giesen is confident TINK will be<br />

equally popular.<br />

WINE MONSTERED<br />

RIGHT TO YOUR DOOR<br />

Introducing Wine Monster, your new favourite<br />

wine delivery service that brings the NZ Winery<br />

Tour straight to your front door all year round.<br />

The concept is simple - choose from whites,<br />

reds or mixed and each month six carefully<br />

selected bottles of wine from a featured NZ<br />

winery will be delivered to your place including<br />

tasting notes, food pairing suggestions and the<br />

winery's story as told by them.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

23


Wine & Time<br />

Innovative digital solution launches to help<br />

wineries expand premium<br />

quality export sales<br />

From February, New<br />

Zealand wine<br />

producers will have<br />

access to a highly<br />

innovative online wine<br />

marketplace, Wine<br />

Collective Direct, to sell their<br />

premium wine direct to overseas<br />

consumers.<br />

A New Zealand-first, Wine<br />

Collective Direct provides a<br />

highly profitable sales channel<br />

for producers, enabling seamless<br />

Direct to International Consumer<br />

(DTiC) sales to support the<br />

prosperity of the New Zealand<br />

wine industry.<br />

Wine Collective Direct will<br />

support local wine producers<br />

in achieving profitability in<br />

historically difficult premium and<br />

ultra-premium market segments.<br />

Wine Collective Direct Founder<br />

Grant Rimmer says the digital<br />

solution – designed to help<br />

New Zealand wine producers<br />

reach, connect and transact<br />

directly with global consumers<br />

– comes amid the increase of<br />

online shopping in the alcohol<br />

category.<br />

“We’re delighted to be<br />

announcing this exciting<br />

development for the New<br />

Zealand wine industry at a<br />

critical time. In recent years,<br />

producers across New Zealand<br />

have invested heavily in wine<br />

tourism to reach high-end<br />

international consumers with<br />

a thirst for rare and limited<br />

production wines.”<br />

In 2019, NZ Winegrowers reported<br />

that 776, 599 international wine<br />

tourists visited New Zealand and<br />

spent $3.26 billion.<br />

However, COVID-19 has<br />

presented challenges to<br />

approximately 300 producers<br />

in New Zealand, impacted by a<br />

decline in international visitors<br />

that would traditionally visit for<br />

tastings, tours and Cellar Door<br />

purchases.<br />

“On the cusp of what was set<br />

to be a record year for wine<br />

tourism including a massive<br />

boost from the America’s Cup,<br />

New Zealand producers are<br />

now also heavily exposed by the<br />

void of international visitors,” says<br />

Rimmer.<br />

“Wine Collective Direct will<br />

exponentially extend their reach,<br />

helping them achieve high-return<br />

retail export sales within premium<br />

and ultra-premium market<br />

segments. Acting collectively, we<br />

are stronger, and will go further<br />

globally together.”<br />

New Zealand wine producers<br />

are invited to register to the DTiC<br />

marketplace in February <strong>2021</strong><br />

before it begins rolling out to<br />

international consumers.<br />

The initial market launch at<br />

the end of March will include<br />

Australia and Hong Kong,<br />

where the average direct to<br />

consumer bottle price (750ml)<br />

is NZD $49.23 and NZD $59.60,<br />

respectively (source: nzwinehome<br />

FY March 20). According to the<br />

latest New Zealand Winegrowers<br />

KPIs, the average export price<br />

of bulk wine is NZD$4.03/L and<br />

packaged wine is NZD $8.75/L,<br />

respectively.<br />

Following the launch in the<br />

Australian and Hong Kong<br />

markets, Wine Collective Direct<br />

will then roll out to the UK and<br />

USA as well as additional global<br />

locations.<br />

“International online wine sales<br />

have added export and import<br />

compliance complexities that<br />

require a specialist approach to<br />

achieve high sales conversions,”<br />

says Rimmer. “Off-the-shelf<br />

ecommerce platforms cannot<br />

handle the intricacies involved<br />

with the global export of an<br />

alcoholic beverage. Currently<br />

only a handful of New Zealand<br />

producers offer fully enabled<br />

international ecommerce.”<br />

Wine Collective Direct is powered<br />

by the direct to consumer<br />

export business that hundreds<br />

of local wine producers already<br />

know and trust, nzwinehome.<br />

nzwinehome’s specialised<br />

cross border compliance<br />

and dynamic direct-to-door<br />

distribution ensures Wine<br />

Collective Direct delivers<br />

producers and international<br />

consumers a genuine end-toend<br />

market solution.<br />

24 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Wine & Time<br />

“The need for our market solution<br />

has existed for some time and<br />

will provide long lasting value<br />

into the future. 2020 created<br />

the urgency for decisive action<br />

and rapid development to help<br />

producers achieve their rightful<br />

share of market prosperity,” says<br />

Rimmer.<br />

Each wine producer who lists<br />

their wines on Wine Collective<br />

Direct will have their own<br />

branded e-cellar door (microsite)<br />

within www.winecollective.direct<br />

which reflects their individuality<br />

and brand personality.<br />

In addition, producers will benefit<br />

from the seamless technology<br />

of Wine Collective Direct’s<br />

e-commerce platform, supported<br />

by tailored digital marketing<br />

support and resources. "Wine<br />

Collective Direct is more than<br />

just a marketplace, it's also a<br />

marketing place," says Grant.<br />

Wine Collective Direct provides a<br />

uniquely transparent shopping<br />

experience – all bottle prices<br />

listed on the website are totally<br />

inclusive of tax/duty insurance,<br />

duty, packaging and door-todoor<br />

delivery – in the customer’s<br />

preferred currency, resulting in no<br />

surprises at checkout.<br />

There is a subscription fee of<br />

$39.95/month for wine producers<br />

to be included on the platform<br />

– less than the average price of<br />

a bottle of premium wine. Wine<br />

producers will determine their full<br />

share of the sales margin and<br />

can adjust and set their pricing<br />

when they log in to the site.<br />

“We can’t wait to roll this out<br />

nationwide and help New<br />

Zealand wine producers achieve<br />

boundless growth via one<br />

platform,” says Rimmer.<br />

In February and March, a series<br />

of launch events will be taking<br />

place in Central Otago, Hawke’s<br />

Bay, Marlborough and on<br />

Waiheke Island for New Zealand<br />

wine producers to learn more<br />

about how Wine Collective Direct<br />

will help them grow. To attend,<br />

or sign up for an informational<br />

webinar, please email hello@<br />

wc.direct or RSVP via www.<br />

winecollective.direct/tradelaunch-events.<br />

Nothing to wine about<br />

Virtual Jeff delivers real world expertise online<br />

Auckland, New Zealand, 3 March<br />

<strong>2021</strong> — Selecting the right wine,<br />

beer or spirit when shopping<br />

online, just became a whole lot<br />

easier with the official launch of<br />

Virtual Jeff on Fine Wine Delivery’s<br />

web site.<br />

Virtual Jeff is a digital human<br />

replica of Fine Wine Delivery<br />

founder and CEO Jeff Poole,<br />

created by Auckland<br />

company Replikr.<br />

“We’ve always tried<br />

to be at the forefront<br />

of evaluating wine for<br />

our customers. Virtual<br />

Jeff helps make the<br />

online experience as<br />

good as shopping at<br />

one of our stores,” says<br />

Poole.<br />

Poole says there are<br />

over 2,000 tasting<br />

notes that staff can call on to<br />

help customers in store get the<br />

perfect wine, beer or spirit.<br />

“Since we first opened in 1997,<br />

we have always had a policy<br />

of professionally tasting every<br />

wine, craft beer and fine spirit we<br />

sell, to evaluate for both quality<br />

and value for money. If it doesn’t<br />

meet our standards, then we<br />

won’t sell it. We also write our own<br />

descriptive tasting notes so the<br />

knowledge is captured and can<br />

be shared with our customers.”<br />

“Our challenge was to find a way<br />

to deliver that same expertise<br />

and experience in a natural<br />

way for our online customers.<br />

And ironically, the need for that<br />

capability was suddenly made<br />

abundantly clear last year during<br />

the first COVID-19 lockdown.”<br />

“What we didn’t want was a<br />

simple chat bot with an FAQ<br />

(frequently asked questions).<br />

It had to be our experience<br />

delivered online in a manner<br />

that our customers would enjoy<br />

and find genuinely useful, not a<br />

gimmick that would fade in just a<br />

few weeks,” says Poole.<br />

Dr Peter Catt, managing director<br />

of Replikr, says developing the<br />

conversational skill sets while<br />

incorporating the specialised<br />

knowledge of the Fine Wine<br />

Delivery team made for an<br />

exciting project, but the use of<br />

IBM Watson Assistant simplified<br />

the process.<br />

“It’s easy today to create simple<br />

chatbots that can answer easy<br />

questions, but Virtual Jeff is<br />

an order of magnitude more<br />

sophisticated. He is guiding<br />

people based on their answers.<br />

And if there’s a specialised term<br />

used, such as “oaky”, he is able<br />

to explain those terms to help<br />

customers better refine their<br />

choices,” says Catt.<br />

Poole says Virtual Jeff has<br />

changed how customers shop<br />

online and in-store.<br />

“Since the soft launch of Virtual<br />

Jeff late last year, there’s been<br />

a noticeable shift away from<br />

buying based on the specials for<br />

the week and a swing towards<br />

buying what customers have<br />

learnt they enjoy most,” says<br />

Poole.<br />

Virtual Jeff is doing such a great<br />

job of helping online customers<br />

learn about their own tastes<br />

and preferences, that Poole now<br />

wants him to work in the stores.<br />

“We are now working with Replikr<br />

to integrate Virtual Jeff into more<br />

of our services, both online and<br />

instore, where he can continue to<br />

enrich the customer experience<br />

and learning, in what is a<br />

complex and personal decisionmaking<br />

process,” says Poole.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

25


Wine & Time<br />

Tokar Estate<br />

A chance encounter in 1995,<br />

right in the heart of Victoria’s<br />

cool climate wine country,<br />

led to the beginning of the<br />

dream that is Tokar Estate.<br />

Tokar Estate’s vineyard lies<br />

on the gentle north-facing<br />

slope that runs from the<br />

Maroondah Highway to the<br />

foot of the Coldstream Hills,<br />

surrounded by acclaimed<br />

producers like Yarra Yering<br />

and Coldstream Hills winery. It<br />

has just 30 acres under vine,<br />

including Pinot Noir (12.6<br />

acres), Cabernet Sauvignon<br />

(5.94 acres), Tempranillo (4.4<br />

acres), Shiraz (4 acres), and<br />

Chardonnay (2 acres).<br />

With a new look, the modern<br />

winery continues to inspire<br />

and excite 25 years on, with<br />

Daniel Tokar at the helm of<br />

steering the ship his parents<br />

– Rita and Leon built from the<br />

ground up.<br />

Villa Maria Estate Pursues U.S. Market Growth<br />

with New Winebow Imports Partnership<br />

March 15, <strong>2021</strong> – Iconic<br />

New Zealand winery, Villa<br />

Maria Estate is delighted to<br />

announce Winebow Imports<br />

as its new exclusive import<br />

representative in the United<br />

States.<br />

Villa Maria has a vision to<br />

be one of the world’s great<br />

wine companies and the<br />

partnership with Winebow<br />

Imports further supports the<br />

company’s global growth<br />

strategy.<br />

“Following a rigorous<br />

selection process, we are<br />

thrilled to partner with the<br />

Winebow Imports team,” said<br />

Matthew Deller MW, Villa<br />

Maria’s Chief Global Sales<br />

and Marketing Officer. “Their<br />

knowledge, enthusiasm,<br />

and professionalism are<br />

unparalleled, making them<br />

perfectly positioned to realise<br />

Villa Maria’s full potential in<br />

the U.S.”<br />

Winebow is a recognised<br />

leader in the U.S. wine<br />

industry and has extensive<br />

experience working with wine<br />

brands that are dedicated to<br />

unique regions.<br />

“We are honored to partner<br />

with Villa Maria Estate.<br />

Their well-documented<br />

achievements and category<br />

leadership have earned<br />

them an outstanding<br />

reputation as pioneers in<br />

New Zealand wine,” said<br />

Ian Downey, Executive Vice<br />

President of Winebow Imports.<br />

“Villa Maria’s guiding<br />

principles are always<br />

pointing toward positive<br />

change. Their longstanding<br />

commitment to the<br />

relationship between<br />

responsible stewardship,<br />

community, and quality,<br />

resonates strongly in today’s<br />

market. We look forward<br />

to growing this renowned<br />

brand.”<br />

Villa Maria is the number<br />

one NZ brand in the UK, New<br />

Zealand’s largest market by<br />

volume. Despite that success,<br />

the company has historically<br />

under-indexed in the U.S.<br />

market, this country’s largest<br />

market by value. The shift<br />

to Winebow Imports is part<br />

of the Villa Maria’s overall<br />

strategy to reach its potential<br />

in the U.S.<br />

Winebow Imports will<br />

relaunch Villa Maria<br />

throughout the U.S. this<br />

month with a coordinated<br />

sales and marketing program<br />

to generate excitement<br />

and build awareness<br />

throughout the country. This<br />

will be closely followed by<br />

the launch of Villa Maria<br />

EarthGarden, a 100% Biogro<br />

certified organic range.<br />

26 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


New Product Releases<br />

T A Y L O R S E S T A T E<br />

Turn to an Aussie classic<br />

2018 Estate Cabernet<br />

Sauvignon<br />

Clare Valley<br />

2018 Estate Shiraz<br />

Clare Valley<br />

Estate Pinot Noir<br />

Chardonnay Brut Cuvée NV<br />

Clare Valley<br />

Estate Pinot Noir<br />

Rosé 2020<br />

Clare Valley<br />

The fruit for our classic<br />

cabernet is harvested<br />

from the family estate<br />

in the Clare Valley from<br />

a combination of the<br />

Loddon, Wakefield,<br />

and Angela blocks.<br />

For the 2018 vintage<br />

the winemakers<br />

experimented with<br />

extended skin contact<br />

with 8% of the blend<br />

remaining on skins<br />

under controlled<br />

conditions for 10<br />

months. The aim was<br />

to enrich the colour<br />

and tannin levels to<br />

strengthen the varietal<br />

expression. In doing<br />

so the richness, fruit<br />

concentration, texture<br />

and mouthfeel was<br />

extracted naturally with<br />

the results of this large<br />

scale experiment much<br />

to the winemakers’<br />

delight.<br />

Alcohol: 14.5%<br />

Acid: 6.26g/L<br />

pH: 3.60<br />

Residual Sugar: 0.60 g/L<br />

This estate grown fruit<br />

was harvested and<br />

quickly transferred to<br />

the winery for<br />

destemming. Primary<br />

fermentation was<br />

carried out in stainless<br />

steel fermenters prior<br />

to using a pneumatic<br />

bag press where the<br />

pressings were later<br />

returned to the fruit to<br />

add weight and texture.<br />

The wine was then<br />

transferred to American<br />

oak barrels for<br />

secondary malolactic<br />

fermentation for 12<br />

months followed by<br />

fining, minimal filtration<br />

& bottling.<br />

Alcohol: 14.5%<br />

Acid: 6.29g/L<br />

pH: 3.60<br />

Residual Sugar: 0.50 g/L<br />

Made from select<br />

parcels of Pinot Noir<br />

and Chardonnay from<br />

across various vintages<br />

with the final blend<br />

having slightly more<br />

Pinot than Chardonnay.<br />

Taylors Chief Winemaker,<br />

Adam Eggins, opts<br />

for including Pinot<br />

Noir with greater<br />

maturity as it delivers<br />

more complexity and<br />

texture to a sparkling<br />

wine assemblage.<br />

Adam earnt his stripes<br />

after working with<br />

Louis Roederer and<br />

Heemskerk as part of<br />

the Jansz project in<br />

Pipers Brook, Tasmania.<br />

Alcohol: 12.5%<br />

Acid: 6.50g/L<br />

pH: 3.25<br />

Residual Sugar: 0.3 g/L<br />

The fruit for this wine<br />

was sourced from our<br />

grower partner in the<br />

Adelaide Hills. It was<br />

harvested in the cool of<br />

the night and quickly<br />

transferred to the winery<br />

using specialist grape<br />

bins that ensure any<br />

free run juice is kept<br />

separate from skins. Any<br />

free run juice extracted<br />

from whole berry<br />

pressing was transferred<br />

directly to stainless<br />

steel refrigerated tanks<br />

and was left clarify<br />

naturally. The remaining<br />

fruit was then very<br />

gently pressed, and the<br />

blush coloured juice<br />

transferred to stainless<br />

steel tanks. Both parcels<br />

then underwent a cool<br />

primary fermentation<br />

at between 12 and<br />

14 degrees to retain<br />

freshness. The wine was<br />

then fined, filtered, and<br />

bottled.<br />

Alcohol: 13%<br />

Acid: 5.59g/L<br />

pH: 3.30<br />

Residual Sugar: 2.30 g/L<br />

Tas<br />

Gro<br />

clim<br />

exp<br />

bala<br />

The<br />

com<br />

min<br />

and<br />

Foo<br />

Fish<br />

cho<br />

flavo<br />

com<br />

cha<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

27


Supporting New Zealand wine<br />

growing from the ground up<br />

Become part of New Zealand’s centre for wine education<br />

and research<br />

The Marlborough Wine Research Centre resides in New Zealand’s largest wine<br />

growing area. Local wine producers, winegrowers, key industry players and NMIT<br />

Marlborough have come together to create the country’s centre for winemaking<br />

and viticulture.<br />

NMIT Marlborough offers an on-site research vineyard, wine sensory room, two<br />

laboratories, technology transfer theatre and micro-vinification unit, providing our<br />

viticulture and winemaking students with a world-class learning environment and<br />

opportunities to connect with all facets of the Marlborough Wine Research Centre.<br />

On-going collaborations with on-site industry partners including the Bragato<br />

Research Institute (BRI), Marlborough Research Centre (MRC), Wine Marlborough<br />

and Plant and Food Research ensure NMIT viticulture and winemaking<br />

programmes remain on the cutting edge of industry research.<br />

Developed in consultation with key industry players, NMIT Viticulture and<br />

Winemaking programmes are tailored to the needs of the wine industry. These can<br />

be delivered at the workplace, online or at the Marlborough Campus.<br />

Programmes include:<br />

> New Zealand Certificate in Primary Industry Skills (Level 2), designed to help<br />

students gain practical skills and knowledge for entry level roles in the<br />

viticulture industry.<br />

> New Zealand Certificate in Cellar Operations (Level 3) teaches the hands-on<br />

basics of winemaking and finishing procedures during a winery harvest while<br />

Level 4 students further develop these skills on placement.<br />

> New Zealand Certificate in Horticulture Production (Fruit Production) Viticulture<br />

(Level 4) provides viticulture industry-based individuals with the skills and<br />

knowledge to supervise winegrowing operations.<br />

> The three-year Bachelor of Viticulture and Winemaking (Level 7) is available to<br />

students interested in a more in-depth understanding of wine and viticulture and<br />

can be studied on-campus or online nationwide.<br />

Touch base with us today to discuss upskilling your team<br />

with one of our tailor-made courses or programmes.<br />

nmit.ac.nz/winegrowers-hub<br />

> Primary Industries (Level 2)<br />

with Viticulture strand<br />

> New Zealand Certificate<br />

in Cellar Operations<br />

(Level 3)<br />

ONLINE<br />

> New Zealand Certificate<br />

in Cellar Operations<br />

(Level 4)<br />

> New Zealand Certificate<br />

in New Zealand Certificate<br />

in Horticulture Production<br />

(Fruit Production) -<br />

Viticulture (Level 4)<br />

> Bachelor of Viticulture<br />

and Winemaking (Level 7)


Tasting Results | Tastings<br />

OUR BLIND<br />

WINE TASTING<br />

RESULTS<br />

The <strong>WineNZ</strong> guarantee<br />

Our buying<br />

guide<br />

provides you<br />

with trusted,<br />

independent,<br />

expert<br />

recommendation on what to<br />

buy, drink and cellar.<br />

Each panel tasting is judged<br />

by three experienced tasters<br />

chosen for their authority in<br />

the category of wine being<br />

rated. All wines are tasted<br />

blind, and are pre-poured<br />

for judges, in flights of 8 to 10<br />

wines. Our tasters test and<br />

score wines individually but<br />

then discuss their scores<br />

together at the end of each<br />

flight. Any wines on which<br />

scores are markedly different<br />

are retasted; however, judges<br />

are under no obligation to<br />

amend their scores.<br />

The tastings are held in the<br />

controlled environment of EIT<br />

tasting suite: A plain white<br />

room, with natural light and no<br />

noise. We limit the number of<br />

wines tasted to a manageable<br />

level- a maximum of 70 per<br />

day. Allowing judges to taste<br />

more thoroughly and avoid<br />

palate fatigue.<br />

ScORING SySTEm<br />

95-100: Classic<br />

A great wine.<br />

90-94: Outstanding<br />

A wine of superior character<br />

and style.<br />

85-89: Very good<br />

A wine of special qualities.<br />

80-84: A good wine<br />

Solid and well made.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

29


Tastings | Pinot Gris<br />

Pinot based<br />

wines<br />

The Pinot family is the most<br />

versatile, diverse and mutable<br />

of all in the Vinifera world. Best<br />

known is Pinot Noir and Pinot<br />

Gris, with some Pinot Blanc to<br />

be found in NZ too. Pinot Noir<br />

based Roses and Sparkling wines make<br />

some of the most elegant wines within<br />

their categories across the country.<br />

In the Pinot Noir category it was exciting<br />

to see wines from all of the major regions<br />

of NZ where Pinot Noir is grown. The<br />

diversity, range of styles and increasing<br />

personality in the wines, reflects NZ’s<br />

leading position as perhaps the most<br />

suitable country in the new world (ie<br />

outside of Europe) to grow the variety.<br />

Pinot Gris is made with less ambition<br />

understandably as it’s a less noble<br />

variety but to avoid blandness it needs<br />

to be made in a concentrated style<br />

with fresh acidity. Then flavours in the<br />

attractive pear to passion fruit spectrum<br />

with additional some savoury notes on<br />

top, will come through. The best wines<br />

stood out as wines of clear character<br />

and varietal personality.<br />

Pinot Noir base rose can make the<br />

most elegant rose wines as the elegant<br />

supple berry notes of the variety shine<br />

through. All wines submitted were fresh,<br />

from the 2020 vintage and from diverse<br />

regions across the country. The best<br />

wines showed extra layers of depth and<br />

weight without sacrificing freshness and<br />

varietal character.<br />

$18.95<br />

TASTING<br />

TEAM<br />

TOP<br />

CHOICE<br />

Yealands Reserve<br />

Pinot Gris<br />

Marlborough 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Nice lemon<br />

colour, bright, lively lemon<br />

scented aromatics, not<br />

highly varietal, crisp on entry.<br />

Sound balancing acids,<br />

with lime and citrus notes.<br />

Develops well on the finish.<br />

Barry Riwai: Pale with lemony<br />

hues. Peach and pear with<br />

mealy, yeasty notes held<br />

within a dry structural palate.<br />

Good length, with warmth<br />

and some richness.<br />

Olly Styles: Heather, green<br />

leaf and herbal notes,<br />

rose petal, blossom - all<br />

sorts. Quite light across<br />

the palate despite a good<br />

body, prominent acidity<br />

but finishes well with good<br />

length and interest.<br />

Points: 91<br />

30 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Pinot Gris<br />

Ara Single Estate Pinot Gris<br />

Marlborough 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Pale, fresh looking, nice green pear aromas,<br />

well balanced soft fleshy fruit, off dry, youthful, well made<br />

and looks better a 2 nd time.<br />

Barry Riwai: Super pale, crystal. Clear delicate nose floral<br />

and spicy. Fruit freshness with subtle talcomb perfume<br />

and flavours. Line length and concentration.<br />

Olly Styles: Nice, clean, white fruit and blossom notes. Very<br />

pungent and aromatic. Nice rounded palate, well made.<br />

Points: 90<br />

$21.99<br />

$14<br />

Old Coach Road<br />

by the Seifried Family Pinot Gris 2020<br />

Nelson 2020<br />

Pinot Gris | Tastings<br />

Simon Nash: Gris tinged lemon colour, bright/full, quite<br />

reserved, bready nose, off dry style, supporting acidity,<br />

citrus/lime tinged character. Soft finish.<br />

Barry Riwai: Citrus blossom, crunchy white nectarine on<br />

the nose and palate. The palate is quite restrained, good<br />

freshness and well made.<br />

Olly Styles: Pretty aromas, nice white blossom, hint of<br />

peach. Nice, nervy palate with very high acidity.<br />

Points: 87<br />

Domain Road Vineyards Defiance<br />

Pinot Gris<br />

Central Otago 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Nice lemon colour, bright, hint of nectarine,<br />

suggestion of fruit weight, nice tart on entry, crisp acids,<br />

lime and citrus notes. Sound.<br />

Barry Riwai: Pear drops and candied lime zest, very fine<br />

with tight line of acidity. Fresh morish finish.<br />

Olly Styles: Nice pear, blossom tones, a hint of nut. Nice<br />

palate weight, good acidity.<br />

Points: 87<br />

Zephyr Pinot Gris<br />

Marlborough 2020<br />

Barry Riwai: Yellow fleshed peach and barley water on the<br />

nose, complex roasted stone fruits flow through to<br />

the palate. Some warmth on the finish but a generous<br />

dry style.<br />

Olly Styles: Intruiging nose on this wine which pushes<br />

into nutty, more aged tones. Could this be a stylistic<br />

approach? Still, nice phenolic/acid interplay on the<br />

palate.<br />

Simon Nash: Bright lemon, fresh, hint of sulphur or mineral<br />

with some wet stone notes on the nose, soft entry, not a<br />

clear varietal or fruit character initially, round, citrus finish.<br />

Points: 86<br />

$27<br />

$24<br />

$24.95<br />

Yealands Estate Single Vineyard<br />

Pinot Gris<br />

Marlborough 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Quite full colour, lemon bright, lifted<br />

aromatics, quite full, dry/off dry style, citrus and lime fruit,<br />

quite defined, almost a tad austere . Will develop..<br />

Barry Riwai: Peach, and yeasty meal characters. Rich<br />

palate with an interesting creamyness, full bodied and<br />

dry. Classic ripe dry Pinot Gris, really like the peaches and<br />

cream elements.<br />

Olly Styles: Somewhat neutral, if not quite subtle bouquet<br />

- talcum powder, rose petal, blossom. Nice palate, lithe,<br />

fresh, complex, good phenolic interplay.<br />

Points: 90<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

31


Tastings | Pinot Gris<br />

Esk Valley Pinot Gris<br />

Hawke's Bay 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Full gris tinged, quite bright, soft aromatics,<br />

perfumed even, hint of florals, nice full style, good weight<br />

balancing acids, classic slight lactic note, varietal, quite a<br />

lot going on here.<br />

Barry Riwai: Palest pink tinge also cranberry and musk<br />

notes on the nose. Palate is super ripe golden peach, dry<br />

and full bodied with warmth.<br />

Olly Styles: Quite grapey on the nose! Seems a touch lifted<br />

but with a big palate entry. A textural wine, with phenolics<br />

showing on the finish.<br />

Points: 88<br />

19.99<br />

$17.95<br />

Babydoll Pinot Gris<br />

Marlborough 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Pale, bright, fresh, lively looking, nice lifted,<br />

zesty lemon citrus bouquet, lemon fruit characters on<br />

entry, up front, not especially varietal yet.<br />

Barry Riwai: Cooler expression, lime, lemon thyme couple<br />

with sweet red apple. Firm palate with loads of flavour on<br />

the finish and surpisingly gernerous proportions given the<br />

cooler aromas.<br />

Olly Styles: Pear drop, white fruit, talcum powder – complex<br />

nose. Slips through on the palate.<br />

Points: 86<br />

Terrace Edge Pinot Gris 2020<br />

North Canterbury 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Very full colour, almost heavy lemon, ripe,<br />

melon/peach flesh, quite heavy aromatics, perfumed, soft<br />

on entry, almost rich almond and sweet shortbread, bit<br />

hot on finish.<br />

Barry Riwai: Tropical pineapple aromas flow through to the<br />

palate with mango. Broad midpalate and soft finish make<br />

this a crowd pleaser.<br />

Olly Styles: Very sweet, candied, candyfloss nose. I actually<br />

quite like the candy note which also comes through on<br />

the finish, and the phenolic interplay with the body.<br />

Points: 90<br />

$26<br />

Villa Maria Cellar Selection Pinot Gris<br />

Marlborough 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Full colour, bright, quite broad bready notes,<br />

soft on entry, quite ripe almost fleshy, with nectarine<br />

characters, sound acidity, full style, quite well expressed.<br />

Barry Riwai: Palest pink tinge also cranberry and musk<br />

notes on the nose. Palate is super ripe golden peach, dry<br />

and full bodied with warmth.<br />

Olly Styles: Quite nice pear drop, Vosges sweets, sappy,<br />

resiny, interesting. Nice, broad, palate with a lovely<br />

presence, good intensity and good length. Well made<br />

and nice.<br />

Points: 90<br />

$17.99<br />

$19<br />

Seifried Nelson Pinot Gris 2020<br />

Nelson 2020<br />

Simon Nash: nice lemon colour, bright, fresh, attractive<br />

quite mineral zesty citrus nose, good fruit expression, mid<br />

palate weight, nice phenolics, grip, good texture, v nice<br />

finish.<br />

Barry Riwai: Rose gold hues, sweet spice, cinnamon and<br />

clove poached pear. Full broad palate, some sweetness<br />

but balanced by the weight of the wine.<br />

Olly Styles: Lovely, white tea colour - a more fitting colour<br />

for Pinot Gris, let's be honest. Intriguing, nutty, perfumed,<br />

rose petal nose. Well built on the palate, expansive but<br />

well-controlled. Acid is good.<br />

Points: 87<br />

$15.95<br />

Yealands Pinot Gris<br />

Marlborough 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Gris tinged , mandarin scented, on the<br />

palate alomost orange pith, soft finish.<br />

Barry Riwai: Cooler lime and cashew notes with a hint of<br />

green melon. Lean and dry with an appealing zesty finish.<br />

Olly Styles: Very pungent, floral, pear and peach aromas.<br />

Nice, svelte, textured palate with good interest and a<br />

springy acidity.<br />

Points: 90<br />

32 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Pinot Gris | Tastings<br />

Lawson's Dry Hills Reserve Pinot Gris<br />

Marlborough 2019<br />

Simon Nash:Full colour, bright, lemon gris tinge, soft quite<br />

broad, with nectarine characters, quite grippy phenolics, ripe<br />

peach fruit but grippy characters despite sound acidity.<br />

Barry Riwai: Candied peel, dried pear and hints of quince<br />

paste. Appealing bottle aged characters, brulee, red<br />

toffee apples.<br />

Olly Styles: Golden colour with aromas of baked apple,<br />

cinnamon, and some oak perhaps? Lovely, filling palate<br />

weight that gives way to a textured finish. Really good<br />

length, finishing on apple.<br />

Points: 88<br />

$30<br />

$31<br />

Greywacke Pinot Gris<br />

Marlborough 2018<br />

Simon Nash: very full colour, almost heavy lemon, heavy,<br />

concentrated ripeness vanilla, manuka honey notes, has<br />

grippy phenolics, chunky pineapple.<br />

Barry Riwai: Honey, lemon meringue on the nose are<br />

followed by apricot and peach on the palate. The sweet<br />

finish works well with the honeyed expression.<br />

Olly Styles: A touch lifted, it seems, but this is my personal<br />

Pinot Gris of the day, and I don’t care who knows it.<br />

Evidently sweet but with a really delicious body and<br />

mouthfeel. Finishes on a very long note of stewed apple<br />

and apple crumble. Golden delicious; gold and delicious!<br />

Points: 87<br />

Three Miners Miner's Right Pinot Gris<br />

Central Otago 2019<br />

Simon Nash: pale, quite bright a little light, lemon, chalky<br />

almost limestone notes, nice juicy soft fruit, lime and<br />

lemon, good acidity, very clean across the palate. Finishes<br />

nicely. Good.<br />

Barry Riwai: Very pale, lime marmelade and lemon curd.<br />

Sweet spice and pear on the palate, zesty acidity is<br />

balaced by a touch of sweetness.<br />

Olly Styles: Very pretty, floral, white fruit aromas – quite<br />

perfumed. Maybe showing a touch of age? Very<br />

enjoyable, very juicy palate. Good length. Knows what it<br />

wants to be all the way through. Ends on a note of slightly<br />

bruised apple – for drinking now.<br />

Points: 90<br />

$28<br />

$34.99<br />

Gustave Lorentz Reserve Pinot Gris<br />

Alsace 2018<br />

Simon Nash: Full lemon with gris tinge, orange tree flower<br />

notes, not varietal, ditto palate. Some mandarin fruit soft.<br />

Barry Riwai: Pink grapefruit zest, blood orange flavours,<br />

gently finish with a touch of sweetness.<br />

Olly Styles: Reused teabag colour. Lifted, steely, baked<br />

apple. Big palate.<br />

Points: 84<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

33


Tastings | Pinot Noir<br />

Pinot Noir<br />

$45<br />

Holly Matahiwi Estate South Series<br />

Pinot Noir<br />

Wairarapa 2019<br />

Simon Nash: Dark, bright, sweet lifted almost perfumed,<br />

parma violet notes, beguiling juicy softness, nice<br />

supporting wood and other characters. Good fruit<br />

weight and length.<br />

Barry Riwai: Game, roasted cherry and an impression<br />

umami savouryness. Oak is there but with an<br />

impressive level of fruit weight and sweetness. Great<br />

carry on the finish, plush.<br />

Olly Styles: Very deep, dark and broody with a whack of<br />

oak there as well. Nice fruit and good oak. Finishes well,<br />

a bigger Pinot Noir.<br />

Points: 92<br />

Auntsfield Single Vineyard Pinot Noir<br />

Marlborough 2019<br />

Simon Nash: Very dark, almost, black/ruby, bright, dark<br />

berry, quite rich, soft, ripe on the palate, round, coating<br />

tannins, nice grip, good depth and presents layers,<br />

complex and layered.<br />

Barry Riwai: Dark purple hues, super concentrated look.<br />

Vanilla, mocha oak support very ripe plum jam and<br />

mixed berry fruit flavours.<br />

Olly Styles: A somewhat metallic note on the nose along<br />

with some nice forest fruits. Quite an earthy palate and<br />

packs a bit of a punch too.<br />

Points: 90<br />

TASTING<br />

TEAM<br />

TOP<br />

CHOICE<br />

$40<br />

$46.99<br />

Domain Road Vineyard - Pinot Noir<br />

Central Otago 2019<br />

Simon Nash: Ruby, dark red, vinous, bright, smoky/<br />

woodsmoke, olive tinged fruit style, grippy tannis.<br />

Barry Riwai: Black Forest gateau, cherry liqueur and bitter<br />

chocolate. Still very youthful, with promonent sweet oak<br />

but very complex layers of fruit flavour and savoury<br />

earthy tones.<br />

Olly Styles: Pretty, leafy, herbal fruit, cedar box, red wax.<br />

Very pretty, svelte palate, lovely, sinewy texture and length.<br />

Long. Great.<br />

Points: 90<br />

$40<br />

Wild Earth Pinot Noir<br />

Central Otago 2019<br />

Simon Nash: Rouge, soft quite light looking, charry, lifted,<br />

berry fruit, not complex but forward berry/cherry fruit.<br />

Not long on the finish but sound.<br />

Barry Riwai: Lifted red fruits, raspberry fruit leather with soft<br />

spice and gamey flavours. Very soft palate with berries<br />

cream finish.<br />

Olly Styles: Macerated cherry and bark notes. Supple<br />

palate entry and nice structure.<br />

Points: 87<br />

34 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Pinot Noir | Tastings<br />

$29.95<br />

Babydoll Pinot Noir<br />

Marlborough 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Deep colour, bright, leafy, light with olive<br />

tones on the nose, quite mineral, soft fruit, not complex.<br />

Barry Riwai: Cherry berry and charr, very young bright and<br />

fresh. Cedary oak comes through on the palate needs<br />

some time to settle.<br />

Olly Styles: Quite a vinous, deep nose, quite a lot of oak;<br />

nice, svelte palate, pretty, juicy, well-made. Nice length,<br />

touch of bitterness on the finish.<br />

Points: 86<br />

$21.05<br />

Yealands Estate Single Vineyard<br />

Pinot Noir<br />

Marlborough 2019<br />

Simon Nash: Dark, quite chunky looking, bright, quite<br />

charry, toasty, heavy style, ripe fruit, vanilla char, forward<br />

style, with saddle leather and cherry polish overlay.<br />

Barry Riwai: Strawberry and baked tamarillo aromas with<br />

savoury oak flavours. Bold use of oak that, for the moment,<br />

pushes ahead of the fruit.<br />

Olly Styles: Smokey, charry black plum notes. Sweet fruit<br />

core but a bit too enveloped on the “Dark Side” for my<br />

taste.<br />

Points: 90<br />

$27.99<br />

Sileni Cellar Selection Pinot Noir 2020<br />

Hawke's Bay 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Nice bright crimson, vinous looking,<br />

berry char, with some bacon fat, savoury, nice chewy,<br />

juicy, lifted, black berry jam style, sweet finish which is<br />

attactively done.<br />

Barry Riwai: Lifted cherry with licorice, more plum and<br />

sweet oak spice on the palate. Generous fruit.<br />

Olly Styles: Very pretty, autumnal notes. Herbal, light-of-foot,<br />

nice freshness. Pretty.<br />

Points: 87<br />

$19.99<br />

Diggers Law Pinot Noir 2019<br />

Central Otago 2019<br />

Simon Nash: Good dark bright, vinous, mineral and wet<br />

stone on the nose, some nice black berry fruit, round,<br />

soft across the palate, nice light juicy chewy tannins.<br />

Good finish.<br />

Barry Riwai: Wild strawberry on the nose with ripe red<br />

cherry on the palate. Well handled oak give structure and<br />

sweetness, this is a more delicate, savoury style.<br />

Olly Styles: Black fruit compote, nice perfume, seems<br />

almost lifted. Velvety palate, very vinous through the midpalate,<br />

nice juiciness.<br />

Points: 90<br />

Zephyr Pinot Noir<br />

Marlborough 2019<br />

Simon Nash: Dark berry, bright, velvet, chunky/dark<br />

chocolate, smooth galaxy chocolate, quite rich, good<br />

depth, mouth coating tannins, soft, fleshy ripe fruit,<br />

crowd pleaser.<br />

Barry Riwai: Black Doris plum, pomegranite molasses with<br />

toasted grains and sweet vanillin spice. Firm wine with<br />

structural tannin.<br />

Olly Styles: Broody, deep, vinous. Vinous palate too. Quite<br />

grunty, raisiny.<br />

Points: 87<br />

$32<br />

$24.99<br />

Esk Valley Pinot Noir<br />

Marlborough 2019<br />

Simon Nash: dark, deep crimson, bright, nice intense<br />

milk chocolate, good richness, nice weight of soft ripe<br />

berry fruit, with good grip, supporting tannins, well layered.<br />

Nice finish.<br />

Barry Riwai: Mulberry aromas that give way to cranberry<br />

and cocoa flavours on the palate. Firm tannin with a<br />

lingering dry finish.<br />

Olly Styles: Cherry, toasty, smoky notes. Sappy too. Nice,<br />

juicy palate.<br />

Points: 86<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

35


Tastings | Pinot Noir<br />

$33.99<br />

Holly Matahiwi Estate Pinot Noir<br />

Wairarapa 2019<br />

Simon Nash: Dark red, quite full depth of colour, intense<br />

milk chocolate, good ripe berry flavours, good grip and<br />

juicy soft fruit. Medium levels complexity and finish.<br />

Barry Riwai: Dense red fruits, blackberry and dark charr.<br />

Firm, full palate in a riper style that has oak in support.<br />

Nicely made opulent style with balance.<br />

Olly Styles: High impact oak, stewed red fruit notes with<br />

spice. Nice, juicy. Diaphanous on the palate.<br />

Points: 90<br />

$39.99<br />

Goldfields Pinot Noir 2019<br />

Central Otago 2019<br />

Simon Nash: Nice bright crimson, vinous looking, ripe<br />

berry strawberry and shortcake on the nose, ripe good<br />

supporting acidity.<br />

Barry Riwai: Raspberry, loganberry flavours and aromas.<br />

Great fruit drive to this wine with a soft yet complete<br />

palate with an array of flavour both fruit driven and<br />

complex.<br />

Olly Styles: Nutmeg and orange on the nose. Nice, juicy<br />

palate. Fresh and quite pretty. Quite beguiling.<br />

Points: 91<br />

Giesen Uncharted Pinot Noir<br />

Marlborough 2019<br />

Simon Nash: Full dark crimson red, juicy berry quite soft,<br />

nice berry fruit , juicy not complex, ditto on the palate, ripe<br />

juicy soft not intense but well presented.<br />

Barry Riwai: Baked red apple and cherry compote,<br />

coupled with sweet spice and toasted almonds.<br />

Olly Styles: Red fruit macerated in schnaps. Broad palate,<br />

bit clunky but some nice cherry and red fruit notes push<br />

through on the finish.<br />

Points: 86<br />

$24.99<br />

$24.99<br />

Main Divide Pinot Noir<br />

North Canterbury 2018<br />

Simon Nash: Vinous, dark rouge, charry, lifted, ripe tones,<br />

berry shortcake, juicy, soft, forward and almost fleshy fruit,<br />

supporting juicy tannins.<br />

Barry Riwai: A little closed at first, some firm tannin on<br />

the palate that slowly opens up to a toasted grains and<br />

roasted meats, caramelised flavour spectrum.<br />

Olly Styles: Oak, fruit pushing into secondary aromas. Very<br />

sweet fruit core with nice, juicy length.<br />

Points: 87<br />

Villa Maria Earth Garden Pinot Noir<br />

Marlborough 2019<br />

Simon Nash: Good dark bright, vinous, mineral and wet<br />

stone on the nose, some nice black berry fruit, round, soft<br />

across the palate, nice light juicy chewy tannins. Good<br />

finish<br />

Barry Riwai: Baked red apple and cherry compote,<br />

coupled with sweet spice and toasted almonds.<br />

Olly Styles: Black fruit compote, perfume, quite bright.<br />

Velvety palate, very vinous through the mid-palate, nice<br />

juiciness.<br />

Points: 86<br />

$29.99<br />

$32<br />

Terrace Edge Pinot Noir 2018<br />

North Canterbury 2018<br />

Simon Nash: Soft rouge, berry compote, quite intense<br />

on the nose, nice fleshy fruit, medium weight, good<br />

supporting acidity well made with good length and zest<br />

to the finish.<br />

Barry Riwai: Strawberry jam aromas, more meal and lightly<br />

toasted grains on the palate. Gentle wine with tannins<br />

that will work well with food.<br />

Olly Styles: Pot pourri, herbal, cherry notes - also a fair<br />

dose of celery. Nice, lithe palate which finishes fresh and<br />

pretty. Touch dry on the finish.<br />

Points: 87<br />

36 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Pinot Noir | Tastings<br />

Auntsfield Hawk Hill Pinot Noir<br />

Marlborough 2018<br />

Simon Nash: Nice soft rouge, attractive, good lifted,<br />

juicy brambley, quite intense bouquet, good grip, nice<br />

tannins and juicy chewy berry expression. Quite intense<br />

and tight. Nice finish.<br />

Barry Riwai: Berry pie, sweet spice with some interesting<br />

toffee, caramel notes. All the wines of this vintage have<br />

a similar ripe red fruits spectrum with gentle palates and<br />

firm tannin.<br />

Olly Styles: Stewed fruit, oak. Quite a powerful wine that is<br />

all about black fruit and broodiness. Warm.<br />

Points: 90<br />

$29.99<br />

$53<br />

Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir<br />

North Canterbury 2018<br />

Simon Nash: Dark also vinous, nice intense, milk<br />

chocolate, sweet oaky style, lifted and ripe, round, juicy<br />

with supporting tannins. Cuddly with good grIp and lively<br />

acids on the finish.<br />

Barry Riwai: Red plum with sweet oak aromas, some fine<br />

herbal notes too. Velvity texture on the palate, showing<br />

some maturity but still very fine.<br />

Olly Styles: Quite broody, stewed fruit. Nice, textured,<br />

lengthy palate. Juicy and long, with flavours running the<br />

length of the finish.<br />

Points: 88<br />

Trinity Hill Lost Garden Pinot Noir<br />

Hawke's Bay 2019<br />

Simon Nash: Quite light or rouge colour, bright, raw,<br />

almost, nettley sauvage notes, green tinged almost<br />

greengage nose.<br />

Barry Riwai: Cool greener wholebunch characters, bayleaf,<br />

greywacke and pink grapefruit. A refreshing alternate style<br />

that's layered with flavour.<br />

Olly Styles: Quite a white wine nose - perfumed, and a hint<br />

of greenness – comes across like a Tunes sweet (which<br />

I like!). Very fresh, very linear, harvested quite early in the<br />

piece? Still has a lot of youthful charm.<br />

Points: 87<br />

$25<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

37


Tastings | Pinot Noir<br />

Satyr Foothills Pinot Noir 2019<br />

Hawke's Bay 2019<br />

Simon Nash: Orange ruby bright, lifted quite bricky,<br />

ie dusty berry fruit, mid weight, dry, forward style, ripe,<br />

sound finish.<br />

Barry Riwai: Garnet hues, lifted red fruits.<br />

Olly Styles: Like an old wardrobe: dried petal, wood, etc.<br />

Nice palate entry though, juicy, interesting.<br />

Points: 83<br />

Vergence Red MK1<br />

Otago 2018<br />

$29.99<br />

Simon Nash: Dark, deep, olive green nose, quite nettley<br />

almost, leafy and savoury style, ripe but slightly soupy,<br />

sweaty on the palate.<br />

Barry Riwai: Cola berry, dried fig and prunes. Looks like<br />

a super ripe style that has dried fruit flavours and big<br />

structure. Has mellowed a little with time.<br />

Olly Styles: Very attractive nose, very black fruit, cassis,<br />

plum and cherry. Svelte entry, supple, big style of Pinot, but<br />

still attractive in that style.<br />

Points: 86<br />

$40<br />

$22.95<br />

Trinity Hill Hawke's Bay Pinot Noir<br />

Hawke's Bay 2018<br />

Simon Nash: Medium colour, quite lightweight looking,<br />

ripe, honeycomb, lifted fruit, on the palate though quite<br />

loose knit.<br />

Barry Riwai: Prune and mulberry aromas, oak tends<br />

to lead the palate but gives an intersting muscavado<br />

sugar flavour.<br />

Olly Styles: Nice, supple, complex velvety palate. Juicy,<br />

fresh, long and pretty. Good fresh, bright fruit here.<br />

Points: 88<br />

Lawson's Dry Hills Reserve Pinot Noir<br />

Marlborough 2017<br />

Simon Nash: Nice dark ruby crimson colour, good weight<br />

of strawberry fruit, a little light, juicy leafy fruit. Sound and<br />

balanced but lacks weight and depth. Solid finish though.<br />

Barry Riwai: Strawberry preserve, gentle gamey palate with<br />

medium intensity.<br />

Points: 88<br />

$35<br />

Three Miners Warden's Court Pinot Noir<br />

Central Otago 2018<br />

Simon Nash: Nice rouge soft and vinous. Lifted, quite<br />

berry/strawberry compote, with leafy tones. On the palate,<br />

nice mid weight, berry juicy and chewy style.<br />

Barry Riwai: Red apple and roasted sweet spice aromas,<br />

sweet pink rhubarb flavours. The oak integrates seemlessly<br />

and gives length to a fine toffeed finish.<br />

Olly Styles: Pretty red fruit and cassis notes, with smoky oak.<br />

Points: 88<br />

$42<br />

$59.99<br />

Giesen Single Vineyard Clayvin<br />

Pinot Noir<br />

Marlborough 2016<br />

Simon Nash: Nice solid vinous dark red mature fruit. Good<br />

weight of fruit. Soft and polished. Sound fruit. Medium<br />

weight. Sound with nice berry fruit and a balanced finish.<br />

Barry Riwai: Game and raspberries, sweet vanillin on the<br />

finish. Showing its age well with gentle, rounded tannins.<br />

Olly Styles: Cedar, cinnamon, camphor notes. A quite nice,<br />

macerated plum and star anise note.<br />

Points: 83<br />

38 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Pinot Rosé<br />

$24.99<br />

Pinot Rosé | Tastings<br />

Domain Road Vineyard - Pinot Noir Rosé<br />

Central Otago 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Attractive pink, bright lively looking, quite<br />

zesty nose, berry chocolate, nice fruit weight mid palate,<br />

good grip and attractive chewy tannins, leafy notes but<br />

but good balance.<br />

Barry Riwai: Raspberry, sweet briar rose and spice. Tight<br />

palate, bright silken acidity that surrounds a touch of fruit<br />

sweetness.<br />

Olly Styles: Light pink. Talcum powder and new plastic toys<br />

on the nose. Lean, but a nice juiciness through the palate.<br />

Points: 91<br />

TASTING<br />

TEAM<br />

TOP<br />

CHOICE<br />

Waimea Pinot Noir Rosé 2020<br />

Nelson 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Nice pale onion skin/pink tinge, bright, hint<br />

of savoury character, quite char ripe, especially in mid<br />

palate, a little short.<br />

Barry Riwai: Wild strawberry and musk rose, full dry style<br />

with super crisp acidity. Reallly lively on the palate.<br />

Olly Styles: Light salmon, onion-skin, peach skin colour. Bit<br />

dusty on the nose, nice acidity, decent.<br />

Points: 86<br />

$17.99<br />

$27<br />

Villa Maria Cellar Selection Rosé<br />

Marlborough 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Lipstick orange/pink bright tinge, quite heavy<br />

raspberry fruit nose, nice leaf tinged, juicy, touch herbal<br />

palate. Mostly dry, medium finish.<br />

Barry Riwai: Red plum on the nose, cherry flavours and<br />

brambles on the palate. Very structural dry palate, little<br />

hint of tannin would make this a great food wine.<br />

Olly Styles: Blood orange colour. Reticent nose, with a bit<br />

of talcum powder. Nice palate, well made, juicy, finishes<br />

fresh and dry.<br />

Points: 88<br />

$19<br />

Seifried Nelson Pinot Noir Rosé<br />

Nelson 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Full strawberry pink, bright, jam on entry,<br />

spice and jammy notes, ripe and juicy across the palate,<br />

sweet fruited, not complex, easy drinking.<br />

Barry Riwai: Cherry and red apple, a little hint of rosehip<br />

syrup. Baked cherry comes through the palate with a<br />

sovouryness on the finish.<br />

Olly Styles: Pinky salmon, partridge eye colour. Noticeable<br />

Residual Sugar. Quite straightforward but appealing<br />

palate albeit a touch confected. Sweet, fresh, chewy. Still<br />

has a nice Pinot-esque charm to it.<br />

Points: 86<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

39


Tastings | Pinot Rosé<br />

Zephyr MK1 Organic Rosé<br />

Marlborough 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Pale pink, bright, soft strawberry notes, soft<br />

with leafy characters, a little lean and tad short.<br />

Barry Riwai: Candyfloss and toffee apple, bright fresh<br />

palate with hints of wild thyme.<br />

Olly Styles: Very pale pink. Vinous, talcum powder nose,<br />

blossom, florals. Lean, fresh.<br />

Points: 83<br />

$28<br />

Awatere River Spindrift Rosé 2020<br />

Marlborough 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Pale pink, bright, lifted, quite savoury notes on<br />

the nose, lighter style, strawberry fruit character, off dry.<br />

Barry Riwai: Palest pretty pink, delicate white rose, red<br />

apple and pomegranite. Very good intensity, great carry<br />

and bright savoury finish.<br />

Olly Styles: Light ballet-slipper pink. Nose comes across a<br />

touch dusty.<br />

Points: 85<br />

$29.99<br />

Greystone Rosé<br />

North Canterbury 2020<br />

Simon Nash: Quite heavy pink almost trending to orange,<br />

heavy quite sweaty nose, ripe, strawberry jam on the<br />

palate, soft, off dry, juicy round style.<br />

Barry Riwai: Peach and stewed yellow apples on the nose<br />

give way to berry fruit compote. A touch of tannin gives<br />

structure to the finish.<br />

Olly Styles: Copper and pink hues. Quite a forward,<br />

pungent nose of negroni and boiled sweets. Broad, sweet<br />

palate, brought into focus later on. Acidity seems a touch<br />

sour. Decent length.<br />

Points: 84<br />

$25<br />

Photo by Dennis Vinther<br />

40 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Domain Road Vineyard<br />

Domain Road Vineyard<br />

has two vineyards<br />

in Bannockburn,<br />

the home vineyard<br />

on Domain<br />

Road, with a<br />

Cellar Door on our Defiance<br />

Vineyard on Felton Road.<br />

Owned locally by myself,<br />

Graeme, and my wife Gillian,<br />

the vineyards are now<br />

managed by our son Steven.<br />

As we complete our 16th<br />

harvest our philosophy has<br />

always been to tend the vines<br />

with thought and care, with<br />

a move over recent years<br />

towards organic production<br />

and <strong>2021</strong> marks the start<br />

of our certification process.<br />

We have a small valuable<br />

team helping Steven in the<br />

vineyard, and welcoming our<br />

customers at the Cellar Door.<br />

In 2006, we produced<br />

our first Pinot Noir Rosé,<br />

beginning our love for this<br />

wine and winning praise from<br />

our customers.<br />

The vineyards have been<br />

planted with deference<br />

to the local gold mining<br />

activity during the 19th and<br />

early 20th centuries. This left<br />

the vineyards with a mix of<br />

mined and unmined land<br />

which fitted the production of<br />

different grapes perfectly. The<br />

sites are planted with Pinot<br />

Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay,<br />

Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc<br />

grapes.<br />

We pride ourselves on producing<br />

a range of ten award winning<br />

wines, with consistent high quality<br />

across the range. Most of the<br />

Carefully crafted on a<br />

Central Otago family vineyard<br />

WINNER OF OVER 100<br />

INTERNATIONAL ACCODLADES<br />

wines are available for tasting at<br />

the Cellar Door, where visitors are<br />

welcome every day from 11am to<br />

5pm.<br />

Bannockburn • Central Otago • New Zealand<br />

www.domainroad.co.nz<br />

Cellar Door open 7 Days 11am -5pm • 263 Felton Rd Brannockburn


Feature | Yealands<br />

TOP WINES<br />

FROM A PASSIONATE<br />

WINEMAKER<br />

Natalie Christensen,<br />

Chief Winemaker<br />

for Yealands, has<br />

many passions<br />

in life and found<br />

her love for wine<br />

through a series of experiences<br />

that began with her completing<br />

a Bachelor of Music and a<br />

Master of Science (receiving first<br />

class honours) at Canterbury<br />

University, as well as becoming a<br />

classically trained double bass<br />

player. During university Natalie<br />

was working in a wine bar and as<br />

a volunteer fire fighter with early<br />

ambitions to work for the New<br />

Zealand film industry composing<br />

musical scores, or to forge a path<br />

in musical therapy, interested in<br />

the connectivity of music and the<br />

different experiences that people<br />

have when listening to music.<br />

However, life took an unexpected<br />

turn when Natalie moved to<br />

Marlborough in 2006 to complete<br />

a harvest with Saint Clair and<br />

she began to connect the dots<br />

between her various passions<br />

and experiences. Her time as a<br />

fire fighter had taught her to work<br />

with heavy hoses and in steel toecapped<br />

boots; her knowledge<br />

and love of wine was sparked<br />

through her time in the wine bar;<br />

even her musical training would<br />

play its part in her approach to<br />

winemaking. A single vintage of<br />

exhausting but exhilarating work<br />

in the cellar was all it took for<br />

Natalie to realise her true calling<br />

was as a winemaker.<br />

While working full-time as Saint<br />

Clair’s Assistant Winemaker she<br />

was also studying part-time<br />

to gain a Graduate Diploma<br />

in Oenology from the Eastern<br />

Institute of Technology in Hawke’s<br />

Bay, but this juggling act paid off<br />

and she graduated top in her<br />

year.<br />

Natalie became part of the<br />

full-time Yealands winemaking<br />

team in 2015 after working as<br />

Winemaker at La Cana in Rias<br />

Baixas, Spain making Albariño<br />

for the Jorge Ordonez group.<br />

By 2018 she had been named<br />

as one of the World’s Most<br />

Influential Women in Wine by The<br />

Drinks Business and by January<br />

2019 she had become Chief<br />

Winemaker at Yealands.<br />

Yealands Reserve Pinot Gris<br />

2020 (voted Top Wine in Wine NZ<br />

Magazine’s <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong> Tasting,<br />

led by Simon Nash MW) and<br />

Yealands Estate Single Vineyard<br />

Pinot Gris 2020 (voted Runner Up)<br />

are both sourced from Seaview<br />

Vineyard.<br />

Natalie strives to create wines<br />

that are true to site and season<br />

and in her own words, she<br />

doesn’t like to “fiddle” too much,<br />

preferring to allow the wines<br />

to express where they come<br />

from. The Reserve Pinot Gris has<br />

concentrated notes of young<br />

apricot, quince and warming<br />

baking spice and has a very<br />

luscious and generous palate,<br />

balancing fruit and acidity with<br />

a long dry finish. The Single<br />

Vineyard Pinot Gris is brimming<br />

with pear drop and fig, subtle<br />

spice and perfectly balanced<br />

with a lingering finish.<br />

42<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


INSPIRED BY THE COAST


Feature | Matahiwi Estate<br />

Amazing<br />

Matahiwi<br />

Matahiwi<br />

Estate was<br />

established in<br />

1998 by wine<br />

lover Alastair<br />

Scott. He<br />

looked around the New Zealand<br />

wine regions as to where best<br />

to start his wine business and<br />

eventually settled on our site in<br />

the northern Wairarapa.<br />

The area – the Opaki Gravels<br />

outside Masterton – is amazing.<br />

It was first identified by the<br />

pioneering Frenchwoman Marie<br />

Zelie Beetham more than 120<br />

years ago and is credited with<br />

producing the region’s first<br />

pinot noir vintage in 1897, but<br />

prohibition came and the grapes<br />

were pulled out in 1905.<br />

We are a small but very<br />

dedicated team who work to<br />

deliver the best wine in every<br />

bottle. From every day drinkers<br />

to cellar worthy trophy winners!<br />

Especially for our reserve range<br />

– Holly and now Holly South<br />

Series. Named after the owners’<br />

daughter Holly, they demonstrate<br />

the best from the vineyard and<br />

winemaking team.<br />

We follow the Sustainable Wine<br />

New Zealand practices including<br />

a small farm of chickens, ducks<br />

and a couple of kunekune pigs<br />

named George and Brad! Great<br />

wine is made in the vineyard and<br />

we are lucky to have vineyard<br />

manager Karina Southey<br />

working the vineyard for over 10<br />

years. She knows the vineyard<br />

like the back of her hand and<br />

delivers great quality grapes for<br />

winemaker Miles Dinneen to work<br />

his magic on.<br />

Miles comes to us from the<br />

Hawkes Bay, although he went<br />

to school over the back fence of<br />

the vineyard, and has been in<br />

the wine industry for more than<br />

twenty years. Since joining the<br />

team four vintages ago he has<br />

produced a plethora of award<br />

winners, with a few trophies for<br />

good measure! He believe the<br />

Wairarapa is under-appreciated<br />

as a wine region, and has<br />

significant growth opportunities<br />

so keep an eye out.<br />

The majority of the planting<br />

is Pinot Noir with the obligatory<br />

Sauvignon Blanc, mainly for Texas,<br />

as well as a small amount of<br />

Pinot Gris and Chardonnay.<br />

We market these wines locally<br />

in the on and off trade as well<br />

as export more than 50% of<br />

production. The overseas markets<br />

love listing a small family owned<br />

winery from one of the smallest<br />

wine regions as something<br />

different to offer their consumers.<br />

We also love running events<br />

at the winery and we’re active<br />

on social media with a goal of<br />

sharing our story - we’re serious<br />

about the wine, but can still<br />

have fun growing, making and<br />

selling it! Each year we run two<br />

sell out events, the ‘Pick your own<br />

Rose’ and ‘Winemaker for a Day’<br />

as part of Wellington on a Plate<br />

event. These events give people<br />

a hands on experience in a<br />

vineyard and a winery as well a<br />

lot of fun! People loving seeing<br />

the inside workings of the winery<br />

and lunching amongst the big<br />

stainless steal ferments in the<br />

middle of winter!<br />

Our online wine club get early<br />

access to events and new releases<br />

as well as great deals throughout<br />

the year. Join Club ME today -<br />

www.matahiwi.co.nz<br />

44<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


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Feature | Gibbston<br />

The valley of the vines<br />

The most rugged of the Central<br />

Otago wine subregions, Gibbston<br />

has a plethora of wineries to<br />

explore, from the luxurious to the<br />

rustic. Charmian Smith offers<br />

a guide to the wineries nearest<br />

Queenstown and Arrowtown.<br />

Gibbston is known<br />

as “the valley<br />

of the vines”<br />

and no wonder.<br />

Between the<br />

craggy Nevis<br />

Bluff at the eastern end and the<br />

distinctive Judge and Jury rocks<br />

presiding over the western end,<br />

vineyards cover the warm, north-<br />

46<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Gibbston | Feature<br />

The Gibbston cycle trail runs along the cliffs above the Kawarau river while Gibbston Valley winery, home vineyard<br />

and lodge nestle below the hills.<br />

facing slopes above the highway.<br />

Far below, the might blue-green<br />

Kawarau forces its way between<br />

rock walls of the gorge. It’s best<br />

seen from the Gibbston cycle<br />

and walking trail, the historic<br />

bungee bridge - or from the<br />

spine tingling road to Chard<br />

Farm.<br />

Like nearby Arrowtown and<br />

Queenstown, Gibbston was<br />

part of the 1860s gold rushes.<br />

Then sheep farming took over<br />

as several old wool sheds, now<br />

converted into tasting rooms and<br />

even houses, attest. Wine growing<br />

started in the 1980s when Alan<br />

Brady planted a little vineyard<br />

round his holiday cottage at<br />

what was to become Gibbston<br />

Valley. Soon after, brothers Rob<br />

and Greg Hay established Chard<br />

Farm on a former orchard site<br />

clinging spectacularly to a shelf<br />

above the Kawarau, and all three<br />

are still connected with wine in<br />

the area.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

47


Feature | Gibbston<br />

Gibbston is the highest of the<br />

Central Otago subregions and<br />

tends to be the coolest. The<br />

bigger wineries source much<br />

of their fruit from elsewhere in<br />

Central, but some also make<br />

single vineyard Gibbston<br />

wines. The smaller, familyowned<br />

wineries make their<br />

wine exclusively from their own<br />

Gibbston vineyards, so there is<br />

plenty of opportunity to taste the<br />

subregional characteristics.<br />

Varieties you’ll find here are<br />

pinot gris, riesling, increasingly<br />

fresh, elegant chardonnay, and<br />

of course, pinot noir, which tends<br />

to be lively and intense, fragrant<br />

with hints of violets, fruit in the red<br />

spectrum and earthy suggestions<br />

of dried herbs.<br />

Cellar doors and stylish<br />

accommodation now dot<br />

the area, and a popular bike<br />

trail runs along the river and<br />

between the wineries. Pick up<br />

the Central Otago wine trail<br />

brochure, or better, one of the<br />

Gibbston wine trail brochures to<br />

plan your visits. There are several<br />

transport options available from<br />

Queenstown, including cycling, if<br />

you don’t have a car.<br />

Most wineries have clubs<br />

which give access to small<br />

production wines not otherwise<br />

available, so if you enjoy a<br />

particular producer’s wines it’s<br />

worthwhile joining their club.<br />

good place to start the<br />

A Gibbston wine trail is at<br />

Kinross. Not only is it in the<br />

middle of the valley but it also<br />

has accommodation cottages,<br />

a friendly, casual bistro and, in<br />

summer, bike hire. Best of all for<br />

the wine lover, it showcases the<br />

produce of four neighbouring<br />

boutique vineyards, Valli,<br />

Hawkeshead, Coal Pit, Alan<br />

Brady’s Wild Irishman, as well as<br />

their own Kinross wines.<br />

www.kinross.nz<br />

Wine pioneer Alan Brady, who<br />

has downsized several times<br />

since founding Gibbston Valley<br />

Wines, now makes his own Wild<br />

Irishman, tiny amounts of pinot<br />

noir from selected vineyards<br />

around the region, including the<br />

dark, silky “Macushla” (meaning<br />

“my darling” in Irish), from the<br />

vineyard in front of the Kinross<br />

cottages.<br />

Grant Taylor of Valli, with<br />

some 28 Central Otago<br />

vintages behind him, is intent<br />

on showcasing the different<br />

subregions in his four single<br />

vineyard pinots. Compare the<br />

charming Gibbston, the richer<br />

Bannockburn and the more<br />

robust Bendigo. He also make<br />

a taut, expressive pinot from<br />

Waitaki in North Otago where he<br />

grew up. It has a special place<br />

in his heart, according to Kinross<br />

Kinross in the middle of the Gibbston.<br />

sommelier Luli Bonifetto.<br />

Don’t miss his orange wine,<br />

The Real McCoy, a fragrant,<br />

funky, textural and charming<br />

wine made from pinot gris<br />

fermented on its skins like a red<br />

wine. valliwine.com<br />

Denis Marshall and Ulrike<br />

Kurenbach’s Hawkshead<br />

vineyard is on the terrace above<br />

Kinross. They produce fine whites,<br />

a taut, aromatic and racy riesling<br />

and a richer, textural, dry pinot<br />

gris. Hawkeshead First Vines<br />

Pinot Noir 2018 is the essence<br />

48<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Gibbston | Feature<br />

of fine Gibbston pinot, hinting<br />

of cranberries and dried herbs,<br />

intense yet delicate but with firm,<br />

well balanced tannins.<br />

www.hawksheadwine.com<br />

Coal Pit, just round the corner<br />

from Kinross, up Coal Pit Rd, is<br />

one of the few wineries to make<br />

a Gibbston sauvignon blanc<br />

which is fragrant and minerally. Its<br />

savoury, silky-textured pinot noir<br />

is reminiscent of wild herbs in the<br />

hot sun. coalpitwine.com<br />

Kinross’s own charming pinot<br />

is fragrant and savoury. Named<br />

after Thomas Kinross, a pioneer<br />

farmer and trader supplying gold<br />

miners in the 1860s, the rustic<br />

tasting room and bistro features<br />

the story and photographs of<br />

Thomas, Helen and their 11<br />

children, and their original<br />

orchard still provides fruit for the<br />

bistro’s preserves.<br />

Sean Brennan aims to make wines<br />

that express their place.<br />

Wine buffs should not miss<br />

Brennan’s vineyard tucked<br />

away on Gibbston Back Rd.<br />

Sean Brennan’s parents planted<br />

the vineyard in the 1990s but<br />

in 2006 Sean returned to make<br />

his own wine. Sean is one of<br />

those impassioned winemakers<br />

who understands the different<br />

aspects and soil types of his<br />

10ha vineyard and seeks to make<br />

wines expressive of their place.<br />

He has a handful of unusual<br />

varieties such as tempranillo and<br />

muscat as well as chardonnay,<br />

riesling, pinot gris and pinot noir.<br />

Compare the contrasting styles<br />

of pinot gris: a crisp dry Pinot<br />

Grigio and a richer, more intense<br />

Simon Cox and Leah Seifert and their small family vineyard in the heart<br />

of Gibbston.<br />

pinot gris oozing lush fruit. A<br />

welcome change from the many<br />

pinot rosés in the district is his<br />

savoury, dry tempranillo/zinfandel<br />

rosé.<br />

There’s also a lovely fragrant,<br />

intense, dry muscat reminiscent<br />

of those you might find in<br />

southern Europe.<br />

Sean likes to hold his pinots for<br />

a couple of years before release.<br />

The 2015 B2 is an easier drinking<br />

style, soft and generous, while the<br />

Brennan 2015 is more structured<br />

with that charming red fruit and<br />

dried herb character typical<br />

of Gibbston pinot, but which<br />

doesn’t reveal itself until it has a<br />

few years in bottle.<br />

But what blew me away was<br />

the fragrant, intense, dry, orange<br />

wine made from muscat grapes.<br />

Orange wines, white grapes<br />

fermented on their skins in<br />

barrel like a red wine, are not to<br />

everyone’s taste with their pale<br />

orange colour and surprising<br />

tannins, but those made well can<br />

be delicious.<br />

Brennan also offer simple<br />

Gibbston Back Rd Vineyards with Mt Rosa behind.<br />

platters from their tasting room<br />

high on the slopes facing the<br />

craggy Nevis Bluff.<br />

www.brennanwines.com<br />

L<br />

ike Brennan, Coxs’ is an older<br />

family vineyard on Gibbston<br />

Back Rd, recently taken over by<br />

son Simon Cox and his wife Leah<br />

Seifert, a second generation<br />

heritage art dealer whose wares<br />

are on show the tiny tasting room.<br />

It’s worth phoning to make an<br />

appointment to hear their story<br />

and taste their wine from the<br />

bony, sloping vineyard. For almost<br />

20 years the grapes were sold to<br />

other producers, but Simon and<br />

Leah noted that they produced<br />

wines that were highly rated in<br />

local and overseas competitions.<br />

The couple have no illusions<br />

about how hard it will be to make<br />

a living from their 3.5ha vineyard<br />

but they are aiming high. Don’t<br />

miss the lively, floral 2019 pinot<br />

gris with its beautifully balanced<br />

finish, or their generous, charming<br />

and lively 2018 pinot noir.<br />

www.coxsvineyard.co.nz<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

49


Feature | Gibbston<br />

Mt Rosa is named after the<br />

sheep station at the eastern<br />

end of the valley below the<br />

scarps of Mt Rosa and Nevis Bluff.<br />

Its tasting room and restaurant in<br />

a rustically renovated woodshed<br />

tucked under a tussock covered<br />

hill, is a popular stop for lunch<br />

especially for those biking the<br />

wine trail.<br />

Trish Mackenzie keeps<br />

everyone in check with her dry<br />

sense of humour, noting where<br />

everybody is up to in their tasting<br />

while informing and entertaining<br />

them.<br />

Don’t miss the fragrant 2018<br />

pinot gris, oozing charm and<br />

lush fruit, or the 2016 pinot noir,<br />

redolent with cherry plums and<br />

dried herbs characteristic of the<br />

region. Depending on season,<br />

try their mulled wine or sangria<br />

- they sell a syrup made to their<br />

secret recipes so you can make<br />

up your own. www.mtrosa.co.nz<br />

The oldest producer in the area<br />

is Gibbston Valley, established<br />

by Alan Brady in 1990, but now<br />

much expanded and diversified.<br />

With a luxury lodge and spa, a<br />

Mt Rosa’s tasting room and restaurant in one of the many historic<br />

woolshed in the area.<br />

large restaurant, tasting room<br />

and shop, a bike hire operation,<br />

a cheesery and deli cafe,<br />

summer concerts, tours of the<br />

vineyard and iconic wine cave,<br />

and various tastings including<br />

wine and cheese matching, it<br />

nevertheless has not lost its focus<br />

on making fine wine.<br />

Christopher Keys, winemaker<br />

since 2006, produces a huge<br />

selection of wine, including<br />

some stylish bubblies, from the<br />

company’s organic vineyards<br />

in Bendigo (Red Shed, China<br />

Terrace and Schoolhouse) and<br />

Gibbston (Glenlee and Le Maitre<br />

home vineyard). There’s a little<br />

pinot blanc and sauvignon<br />

blanc but the major varieties are<br />

pinot gris, riesling, chardonnay,<br />

and, of course, pinot noir.<br />

Wines are served in appropriate<br />

glassware and magums<br />

and larger format bottles are<br />

available for special occasions or<br />

to add a touch of luxury<br />

Don’t miss the taut limy Red<br />

Shed single vineyard riesling<br />

2018, the 2018 pinot gris oozing<br />

Tasting wine in Gibbston Valley’s cave with winemaker Christopher Keys.<br />

50<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Gibbston | Feature<br />

Cycling the Gibbston trail is a popular way to visit the wineries.<br />

ripe stone fruit and mandarins<br />

and finishing with a racy<br />

freshness, the elegant China<br />

Terrace chardonnay 2019<br />

redolent with white peaches and<br />

mineral backbone.<br />

The more affordable Gold River<br />

pinot noir 2019 is a delicious<br />

fruity wine, textural and enjoyable<br />

rather than cerebral, but don’t<br />

miss comparing the single<br />

vineyard pinots: the lithe and<br />

complex and dark-fruited China<br />

Terrace pinot noir 2019 from<br />

Bendigo and the racier Glenlee<br />

2019 from Gibbston which<br />

hints of wild herbs, briar and<br />

raspberries.<br />

Gibbston Valley is another<br />

good place to stop for lunch on<br />

the wine trail with chef Anthony<br />

Gradiska’s food matched with<br />

Christopher’s wines.<br />

www.gibbstonvalley.com<br />

Quirky, full of personality<br />

but with excellent wines,<br />

Mount Edward is well worth<br />

making an appointment to visit.<br />

Duncan Forsyth is never scared<br />

of doing things differently. The<br />

winery is filled with zany art,<br />

murals and sculptures, and<br />

some of their products - a stylish<br />

vermouth, a 10-year old brandy,<br />

and an oloroso-like chenin<br />

blanc may also seem a little<br />

left field. However, their move<br />

to regenerative agriculture in<br />

their already organic vineyards<br />

in Pisa, Bannockburn and<br />

Gibbston shows a commitment<br />

to beneficial environmental and<br />

social outputs.<br />

They are looking to make<br />

lighter, fresher, harmonious wines<br />

rather than bigger muscular<br />

ones, Duncan says. There are two<br />

ranges, the more classic Ted and<br />

Mount Edward which is more<br />

textural.<br />

The whites are fresh with lovely<br />

mid palates - the dry, textural<br />

Mount Edward pinot blanc, the<br />

creamy nutty chardonnay, and<br />

the generous pinot gris. On a<br />

summer day you can’t go past<br />

the fresh, juicy crunchy gamay,<br />

an ideal summer red.<br />

Duncan Forsyth not afraid to do<br />

things differently.<br />

Dogs, warmth and murals at Mt Edward.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

51


Feature | Gibbston<br />

The startling architecture of Peregrine’s winery tucked in the slopes above the Kawarau river.<br />

The pinots are more serous,<br />

the silky, red cherry char of the<br />

Ted and the dark fruited, textural<br />

Mount Edward made from older<br />

vines.<br />

Among the unusual offerings,<br />

don’t miss their mouthwatering<br />

dry vermouth. Apart from cloves,<br />

all the botanicals - elderflower,<br />

coriander seed, wormwood and<br />

thyme - are grown locally. It’s<br />

absolutely delicious over ice.<br />

mountedward.com<br />

The sleek roof of Peregrine’s<br />

winery evoking a falcon’s<br />

wing in flight is tucked below the<br />

highway. It’s well worth taking a<br />

tour of the startling architecture<br />

as well as tasting the pristine<br />

wines.<br />

Like many of the other larger<br />

wineries in Gibbston it has<br />

vineyards in Bendigo and Pisa in<br />

the Cromwell Basin as well as its<br />

home vineyard.<br />

Rieslings are a specialty<br />

among the whites: don’t miss the<br />

lively, intense Peregrine riesling<br />

hinting of lime marmalade.<br />

Compare it with the sweeter,<br />

more floral Rastaburn riesling with<br />

a lovely crunchy finish; and the<br />

ambrosial late harvest riesling<br />

oozing lime flowers with a hint of<br />

cream - delicious with a not-toosweet<br />

lemon tart.<br />

Peregrine pinot gris 2019 won<br />

wine of the show at the Riedel<br />

organic wine awards in 2020 - a<br />

fragrant, generous, lively wine<br />

that lingers deliciously on the<br />

aftertaste.<br />

Besides the attractive, textural<br />

Saddleback pinot noir, they<br />

usually have a couple of vintages<br />

of their more complex darker<br />

fruited Peregrine pinot noir to<br />

demonstrate how well their wines<br />

develop. I tasted the fragrant,<br />

complex 2017, with dark and red<br />

fruits and savoury undertones,<br />

and the more mature 2014 with<br />

its darker fruit, lingering intensity<br />

and lively finish which is drinking<br />

well at six years old.<br />

www.peregrinewines.co.nz<br />

Tucked away in a hollow beside<br />

the historic Gibbston Tavern<br />

is Rockburn’s rustic tasting room<br />

offering tastings from its Gibbston<br />

and Parkburn vineyards. There<br />

are two minerally sauvignon<br />

blancs, both with a few years<br />

age, demonstrating how well this<br />

variety can cellar. Both are barrel<br />

fermented with wild yeast, but the<br />

fumé style is more complex and<br />

creamy - ideal with food.<br />

The sky reflected in the pond in Peregrine’s car park: the winery roof in<br />

the shape of a falcon’s wing is behind.<br />

52<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Gibbston | Feature<br />

Rockburn’s Parkburn vineyard on the lower slopes of the Pisa range.<br />

Pinot gris from their Gibbston<br />

vineyard is charming and intense.<br />

Don’t miss their signature Tiger<br />

Moth riesling. The 2015 is sweet<br />

but so racy and tense you’d think<br />

it was dry. Assistant winemaker<br />

Scott Aliprandi says he would like<br />

to drink it in 30 years!<br />

Devil’s Staircase is a juicy,<br />

oak-free pinot noir oozing red<br />

fruits, while the 2018 Rockburn<br />

Pinot noir is smoky, lush with<br />

dark fruit. In the warm 2018<br />

vintage they also made a single<br />

vineyard Gibbston pinot noir,<br />

“The Chosen”, perfumed, toasty<br />

but with that typical freshness of<br />

Gibbston pinot.<br />

www.rockburn.co.nz<br />

It’s an adventure driving along<br />

Chard Rd, once the main route<br />

before the suspension bridge<br />

(now the Bungy bridge) was built<br />

in 1880. The road clings to the<br />

side of the cliff with the Kawarau<br />

far below, but having braved<br />

it, Chard Farm is a welcoming<br />

piece of paradise.<br />

It’s the second vineyard<br />

planted in the valley and its<br />

owner, Rob Hay was the first<br />

winemaker in the region. He<br />

had trained in Germany so<br />

it’s not surprising his love of<br />

riesling brought him to this cool,<br />

unproven (at the time) but<br />

promising area.<br />

Like other larger producers<br />

here, Chard’s main vineyards are<br />

in the Cromwell Basin and they<br />

make stylish rieslings, pinot gris<br />

and chardonnay as well as a<br />

little bit of gewurztraminer , and of<br />

course, several pinot noirs.<br />

In summer don’t miss the pale<br />

Maria Rose a fragrant, dry, blush<br />

pinot noir.<br />

The signature Judge and<br />

Jury Chardonnay, named after<br />

the distinctive rocks across the<br />

river, hints of citrus with creamy<br />

nutty undertones and a fresh,<br />

powerful, long finish. Compare<br />

it with the fresh, unoaked<br />

Closeburn chardonnay. Chard<br />

Farm has two Central Otago<br />

pinot blends, the fragrant, lively<br />

River Run and the darker, more<br />

structured Mata-au (the Maori<br />

name for the Clutha). It also<br />

produces superb single vineyard<br />

pinots from its Tiger, Viper and<br />

Mason vineyards - well worth<br />

comparing if they are available<br />

for tasting. www.chardfarm.co.nz<br />

Spectacular scenery: the Judge and Jury rock (right) presides over Chard Farm on the shelf above the<br />

Kawarau Gorge.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

53


Feature | Gibbston<br />

Wet Jacket’s tasting room is in a historic woolshed near Lake Hayes.<br />

Amisfield winemakers, Ben Lean<br />

and Greg Lane in their Pisa<br />

vineyard.<br />

Not actually in Gibbston itself,<br />

but a little further towards<br />

Queenstown near Lake Hayes are<br />

two other cellar doors well worth<br />

visiting if you are in the area.<br />

Greg Hay’s Wet Jacket tasting<br />

room is in the original Bendemeer<br />

station schist and corrugated<br />

iron wool shed. Its renovations are<br />

a clever blend of the historic, with<br />

a fleece laid out in the original<br />

wool sorting area, and a stylishly<br />

comfortable tasting room with<br />

images of Captain Cook and<br />

Fiordland. It may seem a strange<br />

combination but Wet Jacket<br />

Arm (now a marine reserve) was<br />

named by Captain Cook during<br />

his sojourn in Dusky Sound in<br />

1773 - It rains a lot in Fiordland<br />

but it’s a region beloved by Greg,<br />

an ardent wildlife conservationist.<br />

Greg helped his brother Rob<br />

establish Chard Farm in the late<br />

1980s then went on to establish<br />

Peregrine. However about five<br />

years ago he decided to do<br />

something a little more boutique<br />

and developed Wet Jacket.<br />

Greg sources grapes from<br />

around Central Otago and<br />

long time colleague Peter Bartle<br />

makes the wines. Try the rich,<br />

elegant chardonnay, the racy<br />

riesling and the lively, fragrant<br />

pinot noir. www.wetjacket.nz<br />

Amisfield’s iconic stone tasting<br />

room and restaurant at<br />

Lake Hayes is the only South<br />

Island restaurant to be awarded<br />

three Cuisine hats. Built with<br />

recycled bridge timbers and<br />

views of Coronet Peak to the<br />

Remarkables, and big stone<br />

fireplaces, its hugely popular<br />

for lunch with chef Vaughan<br />

Mabee’s spectacular, innovative<br />

food.<br />

Amisfield makes a range of<br />

exemplary whites from its large<br />

Pisa vineyard, from a sparkling<br />

wine through riesling, pinot gris<br />

and pinot blanc to an unusual<br />

chenin blanc - lively, creamy and<br />

nutty with a crisp dry texture that<br />

pairs well with food.<br />

A trio of sauvignon blancs<br />

include the rich, minerally fumé<br />

blanc, and a barrel fermented<br />

noble sauvignon blanc, the<br />

ultimate dessert wine.<br />

In contrast to the fresh elegant<br />

style of chardonnay common in<br />

Central, Amisfield’s 2018 is nutty<br />

and buttery.<br />

They often have several<br />

vintages of their stylish pinot<br />

noir to compare, as well as a<br />

couple of reserves from specific<br />

parts of the vineyard: the vibrant<br />

Breakneck reserve is from Block<br />

7, the first block to be converted<br />

to organics; and the silky, savoury<br />

RKV Reserve from the distinctive,<br />

stony Rocky Knoll knob on the<br />

vineyard slopes. amisfield.co.nz<br />

Amisfield’s cellar door and bistro in the depths of winter.<br />

54<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> Summer <strong>2021</strong> 2020


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Behind the scenes o<br />

Amisfield’s stylish cellar door<br />

and bistro is the first stop on<br />

the wine trail after leaving<br />

Queenstown, but its large, single<br />

estate vineyard and winery is<br />

over the mountains on the Pisa<br />

slopes above Lake Dunstan.<br />

Charmian Smith goes behind<br />

the scenes to see what goes on<br />

in the vineyard and winery.<br />

Since 2005 Amisfield’s<br />

stylish tasting<br />

room and bistro at<br />

Lake Hayes near<br />

Queenstown has<br />

been attracting<br />

discerning customers, including,<br />

in 2014, the Duke and Duchess of<br />

Cambridge.<br />

However, the working part of<br />

the operation, the vineyard and<br />

winery, are through the Kawarau<br />

Gorge in the Cromwell Basin. The<br />

large vineyard spreads up the<br />

lower slopes of the Pisa range<br />

above Lake Dunstan, and the<br />

architect-designed winery, built<br />

in 2006, nestles above a pond<br />

with a herd of resident pekin<br />

ducks. These are the vineyard<br />

manager’s pets and the bistro<br />

chef, Vaughan Mabee, who loves<br />

hunting and foraging for local<br />

foods, says he’s not allowed to<br />

touch them!<br />

56 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Amisfield | Feature<br />

on the Pisa slopes<br />

For the winemakers at<br />

Amisfield, the challenge is not<br />

to make more wine but to make<br />

better wine, and to realise the<br />

best possible expression of<br />

their place, according to chief<br />

winemaker Greg Lane.<br />

As part of that process they<br />

have converted their 92ha<br />

vineyard, planted on the slopes<br />

above Lake Dunstan in the late<br />

1980s, to organics over the past<br />

few years.<br />

Winning the Vineyard of the<br />

Year award at the New Zealand<br />

Organic Wine Awards in 2020<br />

- Amisfield Lowburn Terrace<br />

riesling and Breakneck Reserve<br />

pinot noir were also champions<br />

of their varietal classes - was<br />

a matter of great pride and<br />

confirmation they were on the<br />

right track, he said.<br />

The vineyard, spread over<br />

92ha of slopes and gullies, offers<br />

several different aspects and<br />

soil types which can contribute<br />

to differences in the fruit grown<br />

there. With organic viticulture<br />

the blocks are expressing their<br />

individuality more, offering<br />

different characteristics in the<br />

fruit which, with care, can be<br />

conveyed in the wine, he said.<br />

“As the blocks are converted to<br />

organics, they start to shake off<br />

the uniformity and start showing<br />

their individuality.”<br />

One block that differentiated<br />

itself early, even before the<br />

organic conversion, was Rocky<br />

Knoll, a rocky hump with both<br />

north and south facing slopes<br />

that not only produces fine<br />

grapes but also has its own<br />

indigenous yeasts, different from<br />

in the rest of the vineyard.<br />

Another is Block 7 on the<br />

gentle slope near the winery<br />

which was the first to be<br />

converted to organics about 7<br />

years ago. The award winning<br />

Breakneck Reserve pinot was<br />

made from this block.<br />

“The flavours in the fruit [of<br />

Block 7] are clearer and more<br />

vibrant which is exciting. It shows<br />

we are definitely on the right<br />

track,” says Greg.<br />

Assistant winemaker Ben Leen<br />

says organics is giving them<br />

a different relationship to the<br />

place.<br />

“The differences between the<br />

blocks is more apparent in the<br />

grapes. It’s less monolithic as a<br />

consequence. The nuances are<br />

more apparent,” he says.<br />

Amisfield winery nestles into the hillside beneath the Pisa range.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

57


Feature | Amisfield<br />

André Lategan, vineyard manager at Amisfield.<br />

Chef Vaughan Mabee is inspired by<br />

what grows around him in Central<br />

Otago.<br />

The whole team was involved<br />

in solving some of the problems<br />

that arose during conversion. It<br />

was spread over several years to<br />

minimise the dip in production<br />

that vines go through in their first<br />

year of so of the new regime.<br />

While conventional and<br />

even sustainable growers spray<br />

herbicide under the vines to keep<br />

down the weeds, organic growers<br />

have to solve the weed problem<br />

in a different way. The Amisfield<br />

team cultivates under the vines to<br />

remove weeds, but they are also<br />

moving the irrigation lines from<br />

along the vine rows to the centre<br />

between the rows. Not only does<br />

this deprive the under vine weeds<br />

of moisture, it provides water to<br />

the inter-row plantings during dry<br />

summers and also encourages<br />

the vines to extend their roots out<br />

and down towards the moisture,<br />

which is good for their health and<br />

the flavour of the grapes.<br />

Inter-row planting of a variety<br />

of companion plants such as<br />

clover to fix nitrogen, and others<br />

that attract beneficial insects,<br />

encourage the soil microbiota<br />

and aerate it with long roots, is<br />

an important aspect of organic<br />

viticulture.<br />

Viticulturist André Lategan has<br />

dug a “rootarium” between two<br />

rows. This hole, about a metre<br />

or so deep and lined with glass,<br />

allows them to observe vine roots<br />

spreading as they reach for the<br />

moisture.<br />

Before conversion the vines<br />

had no competition, but under<br />

the organic regime they are<br />

competing with the companion<br />

plants which makes the vines<br />

stronger and more resilient to<br />

pests.<br />

Summer alfresco dining at Amisfield Bistro.<br />

Instead of commercial fertiliser,<br />

compost is now used.<br />

“Walking the block and<br />

spreading compost by hand<br />

enhances your affinity with<br />

the place and you pay more<br />

attention,” says Ben.<br />

58<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Amisfield winery, pond with pekin<br />

ducks on the pond.<br />

“Now Block 7 has density and<br />

concentration you can see other<br />

blocks are about to get. There’s an<br />

unquantifiable dimension to the<br />

organic vineyard,” he says.<br />

“It takes more care and<br />

attention and costs more but the<br />

results are not only in the wines<br />

but also philosophically. I feel<br />

more of a vigneron, closer to the<br />

growth of the vines. It feels good<br />

to walk though the vineyard - it<br />

feels right now. When I saw a<br />

sprayed weed under the vine it<br />

didn’t feel right,” he said.<br />

The winery, built in 2006 was<br />

innovative in several ways,<br />

including in its wetland for<br />

treating winery waste water.<br />

The water flows through several<br />

settling ponds planted with<br />

aquatic species. It works so well<br />

that frogs now live in the lower<br />

ponds!<br />

Solid waste, such a skins and<br />

pips left over from winemaking,<br />

is composted then spread along<br />

the vine rows.<br />

There’s a lot more than<br />

pinot noir in Central Otago, as<br />

Amisfield attests. Around 40%<br />

of its production is whites -<br />

sauvignon blanc, riesling and<br />

pinot gris, and they are planting<br />

more chardonnay. Unusually in<br />

New Zealand they also grow and<br />

make chenin blanc, a grape<br />

variety that originates in the<br />

Loire Valley in France but is also<br />

planted widely in South Africa<br />

where it’s known as steen.<br />

Viticulturist André Lategan is<br />

originally from South Africa and<br />

missed his favourite white variety<br />

when he settled here.<br />

However, he heard about an<br />

old, now abandoned DSIR trial<br />

vineyard block in Alexandra<br />

and went to investigate. He took<br />

cuttings from old chenin blanc<br />

vines now growing wild there<br />

and propagated them. At first<br />

he made wine from them for<br />

himself in his wash house but it<br />

was so promising that more were<br />

planted in the vineyard and now<br />

Amisfield produces a crisp, juicy<br />

chenin that is much sought after.<br />

Recently the vines have been<br />

identified through DNA as a<br />

steen clone from South Africa -<br />

that must be very satisfying for<br />

André.<br />

While only wine club members<br />

can visit the winery and vineyard<br />

by appointment, Amisfield’s<br />

stylish cellar door and bistro<br />

near Lake Hayes is an essential<br />

stop on the Central Otago wine<br />

trail.<br />

Amisfield | Feature<br />

It’s a striking schist building<br />

with huge recycled timber<br />

beams supporting the roof and<br />

large stone fireplaces. Windows<br />

on one side overlook the<br />

Remarkables and on another,<br />

Coronet Peak. There’s also a<br />

sunny courtyard and water<br />

feature for outdoor dining in<br />

summer.<br />

Its ambience is a harmonious<br />

blend of sophistication and<br />

contemporary rusticity, however<br />

chef Vaughan Mabee’s food is<br />

definitely at the sophisticated<br />

end of the spectrum. He was<br />

named Cuisine Chef of the<br />

year in 2019 and this is the only<br />

restaurant in the South Island to<br />

be awarded three Cuisine hats.<br />

His flavours are bold and<br />

innovative with unexpected<br />

combinations, the ingredients<br />

are locally sourced, seasonal<br />

and some are foraged from the<br />

wild.<br />

The menus often change<br />

but for the three-course lunch<br />

there are a couple of canapés<br />

and three choices for each<br />

course based on local seasonal<br />

produce. For dinner there’s a<br />

10-course “trust the chef” menu.<br />

Both menus offer matched wines<br />

with all the dishes.<br />

Vaughan says his food is<br />

inspired by what is around him.<br />

Living in the mountains near<br />

Moke Lake, he loves hunting and<br />

foraging.<br />

A view of Coronet Peak from t<br />

he bistro.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

59


Feature | Amisfield<br />

Amisfield vineyard.<br />

60<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Amisfield | Feature<br />

“I often find inspiration in what’s growing around<br />

me or random things like a hare eating a raspberry.<br />

I get a lot of ideas from looking around here - it’s<br />

kind of what my menus are based on.”<br />

Eating seasonally means preserving or<br />

fermenting produce in season for use at other<br />

times of year, particularly winter when fresh<br />

produce is limited.<br />

He collects hawthorn berries from the hedgerows<br />

in autumn and makes and preserves a simple<br />

syrup from them, some of which is used in cocktails<br />

and some in dishes like smoked red deer with<br />

hawthorn berry and beetroot.<br />

Harakeke (native flax) is another plant readily<br />

found in the area and he uses the seeds to flavour<br />

and cover homemade soft cheese, served with a<br />

hint of truffle and pickled blueberries - delicious<br />

with the slight sweetness and fresh acidity of the<br />

Lowburn Terrace riesling.<br />

An unexpected vegetable grown locally is<br />

kumara - it is frost-tender so the south is usually<br />

considered too cold for it, but he says it is grown in<br />

several places nearby. They serve it in several ways,<br />

including extracting the sugar, making ice cream<br />

from it, powdering it, and also using the leaves.<br />

It’s best to book a table well ahead as the<br />

restaurant is usually full, even without the flood of<br />

overseas visitors in these post-covid days.<br />

Wines<br />

There’s so much more to try<br />

than pinot noir in Central Otago,<br />

especially at Amisfield.<br />

Compare the fragrant, lively dry<br />

riesling and the award-winning<br />

intense, crisp and luscious Lowburn<br />

Terrace.<br />

Three sauvignon blanc, the fresh,<br />

gooseberry sauvignon<br />

blanc, the richer,<br />

minerally fumé style<br />

and the intriguingly<br />

complex, honeyed<br />

noble sauvignon.<br />

Chenin Blanc is a<br />

special rarely found<br />

except at the cellar<br />

door - fragrant and<br />

fresh with hints<br />

of crisp apple -<br />

don’t miss it if it’s<br />

available.<br />

And of course<br />

you can’t miss<br />

the spicy, redfruited<br />

pinot noir<br />

- there are usually<br />

several vintages<br />

to compare at<br />

the cellar door,<br />

and if you are<br />

lucky they may<br />

have one of the<br />

reserves open as<br />

well.<br />

amisfield.co.nz<br />

Organic<br />

Winery<br />

of the Year<br />

2020<br />

New Zealand<br />

Organic Wine<br />

Awards<br />

AMISFIELD.CO.NZ<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

61


Feature | The Landing<br />

62<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


The Landing | Feature<br />

Amid the<br />

splendour of<br />

the Far North<br />

DENNIS &<br />

ROSAMUND<br />

KNILL visit a<br />

winery of grand<br />

proportions<br />

with luxurious<br />

accommodation<br />

to share a<br />

bounty of<br />

fine wine<br />

and gourmet<br />

delights.<br />

Don’t worry about<br />

packing an alarm<br />

clock. You only<br />

need to listen<br />

for the Kiwis that<br />

routinely punctuate<br />

the morning. And if you sleep<br />

through the dawn then there’s<br />

the chorus of the native birds as<br />

they warm up for the day ahead.<br />

While nature and eco themes<br />

imbue all of The Landing's<br />

features you will begin to feel a<br />

million miles from the nearest<br />

town. With only four luxury villas<br />

delicately located around the<br />

property the designer’s instinct<br />

with an eye for character-rich<br />

heritage architecture lends itself<br />

to contemporary makeovers that<br />

have been built around mothernature.<br />

The feel here is eco cool<br />

with enough mod cons to put<br />

it in the luxury class. Fringed<br />

by six beaches The Landing<br />

is a sanction of peace and<br />

tranquillity combined with privacy<br />

and discretion.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

63


Feature | The Landing<br />

And in a land that is not<br />

short of competition in terms<br />

of sumptuous multi-million<br />

dollar winery developments this<br />

commodious 1000 acre span<br />

of elegance with breath-taking<br />

views over islands and the sea<br />

has an immediate impact the<br />

moment you drive through the<br />

security gates.<br />

After entering the grandest of<br />

gates we are right in the middle<br />

of Northlands most coveted<br />

stretch of exclusive beachside<br />

real estate that has established<br />

itself as one of the world’s most<br />

front ranking wineries. You can<br />

sense the imposing atmosphere<br />

from the very beginning. As the<br />

anticipation grows you pass vast<br />

fields of grapevines, manicured<br />

rolling hills as far as the eye<br />

can see, millions of native trees<br />

that are indigenous to the area<br />

with endless bushwalks of sheer<br />

beauty that will give you muscles<br />

that you never knew you had.<br />

It’s not often that we are<br />

speechless but as we drop<br />

our bags in the living room of<br />

The Boathouse we don’t know<br />

whether to turn left or right or<br />

just stare straight ahead at the<br />

spectacular coastline.<br />

There is something impossibly<br />

romantic about a place that<br />

changes with the wind or hour of<br />

the day. During a sudden storm<br />

one afternoon the sun fled, the<br />

trees shook before a gusting wind<br />

sent waves crashing over the<br />

coastal wall and soon a torrent<br />

of rain enveloped the property.<br />

Then just as abruptly the storm<br />

ended the sun reappeared, the<br />

turquoise was restored to the<br />

sea and the terraced lawns were<br />

greener than ever. This is such a<br />

special place where you want<br />

for nothing except perhaps for a<br />

hand fill of your closest friends to<br />

share the experience with.<br />

The food is the responsibility<br />

of Head Chef Jackie Smith who<br />

pursues a predominantly modern<br />

yet classic French approach with<br />

menu combinations of tastes<br />

and textures supplemented with<br />

their own outstanding in-house<br />

garden and farm produce.<br />

From fresh fruit and vegetables<br />

to free-range eggs and locally<br />

caught fish and farmed meats<br />

the daily menu offers a taste<br />

of magic that lingers on. The<br />

freshness and balance of flavours<br />

is a document of her passions<br />

captured in highly worked plates<br />

united with a rare finesse that<br />

will keep your taste buds alive.<br />

Her smarts are well showcased<br />

with imaginative and enduring<br />

food over breakfast lunch and<br />

dinner. Alternatively for those that<br />

want self-catering you have the<br />

option of bringing in your own<br />

ingredients. Either way this is an<br />

engaging feature and part of the<br />

of the overall package.<br />

And then there’s the wine. As<br />

winemaking gets more and more<br />

sophisticated it has never been<br />

more important for a new winery<br />

to be able to stand out from the<br />

crowd. Northland is one of our<br />

newest wine growing regions<br />

and has come a long way since<br />

wines were first nurtured back in<br />

the eighties. Forty years on and<br />

the industry today has grown<br />

from three wineries to over sixty<br />

producing some exceptional<br />

value for money award winning<br />

wines.<br />

The diversity of Northlands<br />

unique climate and coastal<br />

soils allows for a wide range of<br />

grapes grown with chardonnay,<br />

sauvignon blanc, syrah, pinot gris,<br />

viognier, rose and chambourcin<br />

making a presence. Whilst New<br />

Zealand’s wine trail has a wealth<br />

of wine riches there has been a<br />

dramatic expansion of vineyard<br />

holdings throughout Northland<br />

who are pushing the boundaries<br />

and stealing the march on their<br />

southern competitors.<br />

Peter Cooper born and bred<br />

in Kaitaia and a lover of wine<br />

is the latest entrant to join<br />

Northlands growing wine trail.<br />

Prior to choosing The Landing's<br />

site on the Purerua Peninsular<br />

Peter was a corporate lawyer in<br />

Auckland before moving to the<br />

USA as a property developer. His<br />

enthusiasm for fine wine resulted<br />

in the initial planting of pinot gris,<br />

chardonnay and syrah and with<br />

the assistance of Rod McIvor<br />

of Marsden Estate fame and<br />

Ben Byrne and Warren Gibson<br />

64<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


The Landing | Feature<br />

winemakers extraordinaire the<br />

winery today is producing some<br />

of the country’s finest wines.<br />

But what makes The Landing’s<br />

wines really different is Ben’s<br />

combinations of grape varieties<br />

the most notable being<br />

Vino Rosso a common wine<br />

throughout Italy. Dominated with<br />

sangiovese and montepulciano<br />

grapes this adventurous wine is<br />

blended with cabinet franc and<br />

merlot that makes this a food<br />

friendly wine.<br />

We meet up with Keith Barker at<br />

the cellar door to taste our way<br />

through barrels of chardonnay.<br />

The savoury style of Ben’s wines<br />

are evident. The new oak is<br />

kept from a minimum to the<br />

underlying and for those that<br />

like their chardonnay they were<br />

fresh, vibrant and finely balanced<br />

showing great richness with<br />

instant appeal.<br />

Making our way into the<br />

rammed earth tasting room we<br />

get to sample the syrah, pinot<br />

gris and rose and get into lively<br />

discussion about various wines<br />

styles. So many wines all with<br />

loads of character that all taste<br />

so different.<br />

It’s almost time to return to<br />

the real world but not before we<br />

Ben Byrne Winemaker.<br />

meet with Laura Moreno Guest<br />

Service Manager for a personal<br />

tour of the villas.<br />

Cooper Residence<br />

Perched on the headlands<br />

with 360-degree views of the<br />

ocean and countryside this is<br />

the largest of the four residences<br />

with five bedrooms, intimate<br />

corners and spacious living.<br />

and entertainment areas, floor<br />

to ceiling windows complete<br />

with inside and el fresco dining<br />

enhanced with one of New<br />

Zealand’s largest collection of<br />

Maori artefacts. Once inside<br />

we’re immediately impressed<br />

with the natural architectural<br />

elements with each room<br />

leading to another perhaps more<br />

rewarding than the last.<br />

Gabriel Residence<br />

Situated above the tranquil<br />

waters of the bay below the<br />

residence features four equal<br />

status king bedrooms all with<br />

spectacular views. Also included<br />

are four self-contained indoor<br />

living areas including a full size<br />

billiard table for the boys, a library<br />

and an enormous dining area<br />

ideally suited for entertaining or<br />

hosting corporate events.<br />

Cooper Residence.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

65


Feature | The Landing<br />

The Boathouse.<br />

Vineyard Villa<br />

Built quietly alongside the<br />

vineyards with a more rural feel<br />

the villa boasts magnificent<br />

vistas across the property and<br />

out to sea. With two equal status<br />

king bedrooms and a spacious<br />

master on-suite the living quarters<br />

are open yet intimate with<br />

spacious outdoor entertainment<br />

where guests can enjoy al fresco<br />

dining alongside the infinity<br />

swimming pool.<br />

from Russell, Paihia and Waitangi.<br />

Taste of The Landing<br />

$250pp<br />

A two-and-a-half hour tour with<br />

a tour of the vineyard with wine<br />

tasting and a gourmet platter.<br />

Cellar Door Lunch $450pp<br />

A four-and-a-half hour tour with<br />

a tour of the vineyard with barrel<br />

tasting and a two course lunch<br />

served with two glasses of wine.<br />

We say our goodbyes and<br />

board Iti Rangi for our 20 minute<br />

journey back to Waitangi. In<br />

true style The Landing influence<br />

reached its highest levels with<br />

great wine, great food and a<br />

sense of deep relaxation of doing<br />

nothing!<br />

The Boathouse<br />

Inspired by the original<br />

woolshed on the water’s edge<br />

with two gorgeous bedrooms<br />

with one in the loft. The earthy<br />

scent of the macrocarpa<br />

pervades, vaulted ceilings,<br />

flagstone tiles and floor to ceiling<br />

sliding cedar doors that open<br />

from all sides to three separate<br />

outdoor living areas. The open<br />

fire place, pizza oven and large<br />

BBQ make this a fitting place to<br />

entertaining a crowd.<br />

If this is all too much to absorb<br />

on offer are two wine tasting tours<br />

departing daily by a private boat<br />

Vineyard Residence.<br />

Purerua Peninsula is the first chapter in New Zealand’s history as a nation of Maori and European. In 1814<br />

this is where Reverent Samuel Marsden and his missionaries arrived and settled under the protection of<br />

Chief Ruatara. It is also the place where the first grapes in New Zealand were planted.<br />

66<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


The Landing | Feature<br />

Gabriel Residence.<br />

Discover The Landing Wines<br />

The Landing invites you to discover<br />

the beauty and spirit of one of<br />

New Zealand’s most magical places<br />

through a sensory wine experience at<br />

its hilltop winery and vineyard, now<br />

open to the public for the first time.<br />

Travel by our private boat to the<br />

calm waters of Wairoa Bay, where<br />

you will explore the vineyard and<br />

our state-of-the-art winery through<br />

a guided tasting. Enjoy a gourmet<br />

grazing platter or a beautiful twocourse<br />

lunch prepared by our chef<br />

before returning to your departure<br />

point by boat.<br />

For more information on our experiences,<br />

visit thelandingwine.co.nz<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

67


The Wine Rack<br />

Feature | Food & Wine<br />

By Dennis Knill, wine writer<br />

There’s a lot more<br />

to Northland<br />

than first seems.<br />

Geographically<br />

speaking the Far<br />

North is one of the<br />

most stunning parts of New<br />

Zealand recognised as a<br />

tourist friendly destination<br />

not for its wine.<br />

As one of our newest<br />

wine growing regions<br />

Northland has come a long<br />

way since wines were first<br />

nurtured in the eighties.<br />

Back then there were three<br />

wineries now there’s over<br />

sixty with many producing<br />

outstanding award winning<br />

wines. The diversity of climate<br />

allows for a wide range of<br />

grapes grown ranging from<br />

chardonnay, sauvignon<br />

blanc and syrah to pinot<br />

gris, viognier, rose and<br />

chambourcin.<br />

The New Zealand wine<br />

trail has a wealth of wine<br />

riches with over five-hundred<br />

wineries stretching from<br />

Kaitaia in the north to<br />

Central Otago in the south.<br />

Leading the way are the<br />

large player’s in the value for<br />

money stakes and between<br />

them boutique and smaller<br />

scale operators producing<br />

lower volumes.<br />

While Hawkes Bay,<br />

Marlborough and Central<br />

Otago are the main wine<br />

producers with established<br />

grape combinations<br />

one of the most notable<br />

developments has been<br />

the dramatic expansion<br />

of vineyard holdings<br />

throughout Northland who<br />

are beginning to steal the<br />

march on their southern<br />

competitors.<br />

It would be amiss to<br />

think of Northland as the<br />

industry innovators but<br />

in their own way they are<br />

pushing the boundaries with<br />

exceptional value for money<br />

wines. Recent plantings<br />

by Owen Glenn at Wiroa<br />

Station, Kainui Road and<br />

The Landing are helping to<br />

cement Northlands future.<br />

With much to see, taste<br />

and experience, Northlands<br />

cellar doors are filled with<br />

enthusiastic winemakers<br />

who love to share their<br />

passion for hand crafted<br />

wines.<br />

Here are three you should<br />

include on your itinerary.<br />

Ake Ake Vineyard and<br />

RestauranT<br />

On emigrating from Jersey in<br />

the Channel Islands in 2004<br />

John Clarke and Aynsley<br />

Quenault purchased a small<br />

block of land readily planted<br />

with grapes. Although John<br />

comes from a long family<br />

history of wine merchants<br />

his knowledge of growing<br />

grapes and making wine<br />

was limited so he borrowed<br />

library books to learn the<br />

skills of wine making.<br />

John’s first attempt of<br />

producing wine was an<br />

immediate success winning<br />

68<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Food & Wine | Feature<br />

a medal. Motivated by his<br />

achievements John acquired<br />

more land with grapes sourced<br />

from other growers to produce<br />

even more wine. In 2012 the<br />

winery began a process of<br />

converting from chemicals to<br />

organic and in 2015 was the first<br />

winery in Northland to be fully<br />

organic certified.<br />

Visitors can taste wines at<br />

the cellar door located inside<br />

the bistro restaurant which is a<br />

great place to enjoy lunch or<br />

dinner. Wineries need welcoming<br />

restaurants serving simple well<br />

priced food and restaurateurs<br />

Chris and Judy Owen offer<br />

diners a choose-your-own<br />

culinary adventure and a dining<br />

experience of highly worked<br />

dishes that will not disappoint.<br />

Marsden Estate<br />

Moving to Kerikeri in 1992 Rod<br />

and Cindy MacIvor purchased<br />

a kiwi fruit orchard before<br />

deciding to create their own<br />

winery. In making that decision<br />

they already knew the best thing<br />

about Kerikeri was the sense of<br />

pride and the community spirit<br />

amongst the people who live<br />

here. They knew if they combined<br />

this with their mission to make the<br />

best wines in Northland this new<br />

venture would surely not fail.<br />

From planting their first grapes<br />

in 1993 it was only five years<br />

before they won their first medal,<br />

a silver<br />

at the Royal Easter Show.<br />

Fast forward fifteen years and<br />

today Rod is a living icon of the<br />

Northland wine trail producing<br />

a range of wines that has<br />

expanded from chardonnay,<br />

pinot gris and syrah as their<br />

primary vintages to merlot,<br />

pinotage, muscat, chambourcin<br />

and tempranillo.<br />

Visitors can taste their entire<br />

range at the cellar door seven<br />

days a week and if food is on<br />

your list there’s a restaurant<br />

serving lunch and dinner from<br />

a menu designed by Dale<br />

Gartland their in-house chef of<br />

Cape Kidnappers and Kauri<br />

Cliffs fame.<br />

The Landing Winery<br />

Deep in history the rolling<br />

vineyards sit where it is thought<br />

the first grapes were grown in<br />

New Zealand. Two-hundredyears<br />

on and today alongside<br />

a coastal paradise and native<br />

forest on the Purerua Peninsular<br />

$30<br />

2019 Marsden<br />

Estate viognier Produced from<br />

an opulently textured grape<br />

originally from Rhone Valley in<br />

France this relatively new wine<br />

is gaining popularity.<br />

Medium to full bodied and<br />

predominantly dry with<br />

delicately balanced soft<br />

acids that delivers a rich<br />

structured finish giving this<br />

wine lots of legs.<br />

$30<br />

2019 Ake Ake organic<br />

chambourcin reserve<br />

Deep in ruby hues this easy<br />

drinking wine comes with an<br />

interesting umbrella of ripe fruit,<br />

earthiness, spice and great<br />

flavour that is nicely balanced<br />

with herbaceous aromas<br />

and light tannins. A great<br />

crowd pleaser.<br />

$27<br />

2019 Ake Ake organic<br />

sauvignon blanc vermentino<br />

A rare but interesting well<br />

balanced duet blended with<br />

Sardinian grapes. Fresh and vibrant<br />

with a hint of added aroma and<br />

lively herbaceous flavours have<br />

been rounded off with a<br />

freshness on the palate<br />

that is long and crisp.<br />

$31<br />

2020 Marsden Estate<br />

pinot gris<br />

This young, lush mouth filling,<br />

fruit driven wine is ripe and<br />

flavoursome with layers of fresh<br />

citrus zest and a fruity bouquet<br />

that delivers great balance<br />

and complexity to match<br />

a wide range of foods.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

69


Feature | Food & Wine<br />

$48<br />

2019 The Landing chardonnay<br />

Subtlety with power that’s<br />

refreshing and full bodied<br />

displaying deep vibrancy with finely<br />

balanced with herbaceous fruity<br />

flavours that are rich and crisp as<br />

to be expected from a wine at<br />

this price point. Will take some<br />

beating<br />

the winery is one of the most<br />

exquisite developments to take<br />

place in the region. It was to<br />

be Peter Cooper a visionary<br />

Northlander born and bred in<br />

Kaitaia who carefully chose<br />

the site. Prior to purchasing the<br />

land Peter had a successful<br />

$27.50<br />

2019 The Landing<br />

Vino Rosso<br />

This unique blended wine is<br />

common throughout Italy. Oozing<br />

with rich aromatics with clean<br />

concentrated flavours combined<br />

with balanced acidity and long<br />

fine tannins make this an<br />

excellent food friendly wine.<br />

Ready to drink now<br />

career as a corporate lawyer in<br />

Auckland before moving into<br />

property development in the USA.<br />

Although Peter still resides<br />

in Los Angles his passion for<br />

wine resulted in a plan to<br />

establish one of the best grape<br />

growing areas in Northland.<br />

In the short space of 20 years<br />

with the able assistance of Rod<br />

McIvor followed by Ben Byrne<br />

and Warren Gibson winemakers<br />

extraordinaire the winery has<br />

produced some outstanding<br />

award winning wines.<br />

FURTHER INFORMATION:<br />

Personalised daily wine tours<br />

are available from:<br />

• Total Tours: info@totaltours.co.nz<br />

• Bay of Islands Tours:<br />

info@bayofislandstoursco.nz<br />

70<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Wine industry<br />

worth $571m to Marlborough<br />

Close to one fifth of all economic<br />

activity in Marlborough is generated<br />

from the wine industry, according to<br />

a recent report.<br />

the significant economic role<br />

wine plays within the region and<br />

demonstrates how important it is<br />

that the wine industry successfully<br />

responds to challenges like Covid-<br />

19, the labour shortages that<br />

have struck leading into vintage<br />

<strong>2021</strong> and for what is looming as a<br />

potentially tight labour supply for<br />

winter grape pruning.<br />

The report by the<br />

New Zealand<br />

Institute of<br />

Economic<br />

Research<br />

(NZIER) was<br />

commissioned by Wine<br />

Marlborough Ltd and<br />

highlights the role the<br />

wine industry plays in<br />

the continued economic<br />

growth of Marlborough.<br />

NZIER says 18 percent<br />

of all of Marlborough’s<br />

economic activity in<br />

2020, a total of $571<br />

million, can be attributed<br />

to the wine industry.<br />

The wine industry<br />

directly and indirectly fills<br />

one in every four jobs in<br />

the Marlborough region.<br />

NZIER says the wine<br />

industry accounts for<br />

2,750 jobs in the region<br />

and another 3,338 jobs<br />

are indirectly supported<br />

by the industry, far greater<br />

than any other sector<br />

investigated.<br />

In terms of wages,<br />

$171 million from both<br />

grape growing and wine<br />

production ends up in<br />

Marlborough household’s<br />

pockets. NZIER says<br />

that equates to more<br />

than 14 percent of total<br />

household income in<br />

Marlborough during<br />

2020.<br />

Wine Marlborough<br />

General Manager<br />

Marcus Pickens says<br />

the findings highlight<br />

TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE TRIPS & GET A FREE BROCHURE WITH UNIQUE ITINERARY


Tastings | New World<br />

Leveret Estate<br />

Hawke’s Bay<br />

Chardonnay<br />

2019<br />

This New World Wine<br />

Awards Top 50 winner<br />

should still be available<br />

for the next few months.<br />

Pale yellow with white<br />

peach and balanced<br />

vanilla oak, the palate<br />

is creamy with ripe<br />

stone fruit and a striking<br />

tension between fruit,<br />

acidity and tannins,<br />

creating a seductive<br />

harmony.<br />

RRP: $24.99<br />

New at<br />

New World<br />

tasting <strong>Autumn</strong><br />

As the weather cools it’s<br />

time for those classic<br />

<strong>Autumn</strong>al drops – wines<br />

that match perfectly<br />

with the last of the<br />

barbeques as well as<br />

the first rich stews and comforting<br />

pastas. This is the time for the prized<br />

food-pairing varieties of Chardonnay<br />

and Pinot Noir to shine.<br />

And for more good news… despite<br />

all the challenges of the past year,<br />

it delivered outstanding wines. Here<br />

we share some of the best – from the<br />

2020 New World Wine Awards Top<br />

50 and from the most recent 2020<br />

vintage, which has been widely hailed<br />

as one of the country’s best.<br />

Te Pā<br />

Chardonnay<br />

2020<br />

Several prior vintages<br />

have made the Top<br />

50 and this one looks<br />

poised to follow. The<br />

winemaker’s notes<br />

describe it as an<br />

enigmatic and complex<br />

Chardonnay with<br />

beguiling undertones<br />

of smoky driftwood,<br />

almond pastry and a<br />

spicy musk weaved<br />

with citrus blossom and<br />

stone fruit aromas.<br />

RRP: $24.99<br />

72 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


New World | Tastings<br />

Mission<br />

Estate Winery<br />

Hawke’s Bay<br />

Chardonnay<br />

2020<br />

The newest vintage<br />

from NZ’s oldest<br />

commercial vineyard<br />

should be hitting<br />

shelves now and with<br />

many prior medals,<br />

2020 is sure to please<br />

too. The nose has<br />

spicy, smoky and<br />

toasty aromas and<br />

the palate is rich and<br />

quite buttery, all with<br />

a fresh, clean and<br />

persistent finish.<br />

RRP: $15.99<br />

The Crater<br />

Rim ‘From the<br />

Ashes’ Pinot<br />

Noir 2020<br />

The next iteration<br />

of a Top 50 winner,<br />

this youthfully<br />

attractive and<br />

beautifully fragrant<br />

wine shows sweet<br />

plum, cherry, mixed<br />

spice and floral<br />

aromas, leading<br />

to a wonderfully<br />

supple palate<br />

that’s rounded and<br />

succulent.<br />

RRP: $24.99<br />

Borthwick<br />

‘Paper Road’<br />

Pinot Noir<br />

2019<br />

Get in quick for the<br />

last of this Goldmedal<br />

wine from the<br />

small, high-quality<br />

wine region of<br />

Gladstone. Perfumed<br />

cedar, ripe black<br />

cherry and tamarillo<br />

fruit aromas extend<br />

through the palate,<br />

giving a gentle<br />

complexity to this<br />

rich, polished wine.<br />

RRP: $23.99<br />

Mount Brown<br />

Estates Pinot<br />

Noir 2020<br />

This small winery in<br />

North Canterbury<br />

operated by a<br />

father and daughter<br />

team has won<br />

numerous accolades<br />

in the New World<br />

Wine Awards. The<br />

winemaker says this<br />

wine is very supple<br />

and approachable<br />

showing complex<br />

aromas of mum’s<br />

home bottled plums<br />

and preserved<br />

cherries. The palate<br />

is generous and soft<br />

with lovely texture<br />

and poise.<br />

RRP: $22.99<br />

Wines are available in selected New World stores while stocks last.<br />

Find out more at www.newworld.co.nz/discover/wine<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

73


Feature | Over the moon<br />

The Softies<br />

OMG TRIPLE CREAM BRIE<br />

Silver Medal, New<br />

Zealand Champions of<br />

Cheese Awards 2019<br />

Voluptuous and creamy, this decadent Brie is our<br />

most popular cheese. Soft and rich, the OMG Triple<br />

Cream Brie has a luscious buttery flavour.<br />

Lovely on a cheese platter or antipasto plate.<br />

Wine match: Chardonnay, Pinot Gris or Champagne.<br />

Available in 150g wedge (C01), 270g square (C03) or<br />

1kg wheel (C04).<br />

Seasonally available in small heart shape at approx.<br />

160g (C02).<br />

BLACK TRUFFLE BRIE<br />

by Neil Willman<br />

Best New Zealand Cheese,<br />

International Cheese Awards,<br />

Nantwich 2017<br />

A signature cheese by international cheese judge and<br />

Cheese Master Neil Willman.<br />

Our OMG Brie with a layer of dark truffle paste. This cheese<br />

has a rich musky aroma and earthy flavour.<br />

Best alone on a cheeseboard where this unusual cheese<br />

can be the star.<br />

Wine match: Champagne, Merlot or Pinot Noir.<br />

Available in a 100g wedge (C06) or 1kg wheel (C07).<br />

CAMEMBERT<br />

Bronze Medal, New<br />

Zealand Champions of<br />

Cheese Awards 2016<br />

Our Camembert is Normandy style, made with a<br />

much gentler and more ancient process than other<br />

modern Camembert’s. Delicate mushroomy notes<br />

add to the earthy aroma and taste of this cheese.<br />

Available in 120g round (C08) or 1kg wheel (C09).<br />

Wine match: Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, or Oaked<br />

Chardonnay.<br />

74 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Over the moon | Feature<br />

AROHA<br />

Gold Medal, New<br />

Zealand Champions of<br />

Cheese Awards 2019<br />

Aroha is a new Camembert style cheese from<br />

Over the Moon. A delicious creamy cheese with all<br />

the complexity and range of flavour of a raw milk<br />

camembert ingeniously made from pasteurized<br />

milk.<br />

Aroha is a brilliant cheeseboard centre piece.<br />

Wine match: Pinot Noir, Dry Cider, or Pinot Gris.<br />

Available in a 120g wedge (C10 PP) or 1kg wheel (C11).<br />

APOLLO TURMERIC BRIE<br />

Silver Medal, New Zealand<br />

Champions of Cheese<br />

Awards 2018<br />

An exciting celebratory signature cheese by<br />

international cheese judge and CheeseMaster<br />

Neil Willman released to mark a decade of<br />

cheesemaking by Over the Moon Dairy Company.<br />

Apollo Turmeric Brie has a soft white rind and bright<br />

yellow past. The flavour is subtle, aromatic and<br />

earthy, well-balanced Turmeric, with light notes of<br />

ginger and pepper. A fabulous, on trend, stand-out<br />

star on your cheeseboard.<br />

Wine match: Gewurztraminer.<br />

Available in a 120g wedge (C65 PP) or 1kg wheel (C64).<br />

DOUBLE DELIGHT BRIE<br />

Blend of Cow’s cream and Goat’s milk<br />

Bronze Award, International<br />

Cheese Awards, Nantwich,<br />

UK, 2018<br />

A buttery Brie balanced with a tangy Goat flavour.<br />

Double Delight is a melt in the mouth blend of<br />

Goat’s milk and Cow’s cream.<br />

Wine match: Merlot or sweet fruity white wines.<br />

Available in a 115g wedge (CG12) or 1kg wheel (CG13).<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

75


Feature | Over the moon<br />

GOAT CAMEMBERT<br />

Silver Medal, New Zealand<br />

Champions of Cheese Awards<br />

2010 & Bronze 2016<br />

Goat Camembert has a delicate flavour when<br />

young and ripens quickly developing an earthy<br />

tangy flavour with age. As the pearly white paste<br />

matures it changes from firm to silky and smooth.<br />

Wine match: Light and fruity red wines.<br />

Available in a 115g wedge (G28) or 1kg wheel (G29).<br />

Softies - washed rinds<br />

GALACTIC GOLD<br />

Available in a 100g half square (C14), 200g square (C15) and 1kg square (C16).<br />

Category Trophy and<br />

Gold Medal, New Zealand<br />

Champions of Cheese<br />

Awards 2019<br />

A show stopper with a vibrant orange rind and<br />

piquant flavour. Galactic Gold is a winner on any<br />

cheese board. As this cheese matures the paste<br />

changes from soft to creamy and melting and the<br />

aroma intensifies.<br />

A great addition to a cheese platter Galactic Gold<br />

is also delicious in salads and quiches or on its own<br />

as a fabulous dessert with dried fruit.<br />

Wine match: Pinot Gris, late harvest Riesling, or<br />

Pinot Noir .<br />

BURGUNDY MOON<br />

Gold Medal, New Zealand<br />

Champions of Cheese<br />

Awards 2019<br />

Burgundy Moon has a mottled black rind which<br />

has been washed with grape skins and seeds left<br />

from wine making. This gives a fruity, earthy flavour<br />

to the decadently creamy centre. The paste is<br />

characteristic of a classic Over the Moon cheese,<br />

full flavoured and golden with a hint of grapes.<br />

Delicious with a crusty baguette or plain crackers,<br />

Burgundy Moon is a stand out cheese on your next<br />

cheeseboard.<br />

Wine match: Merlot, Riesling, or fruity wines.<br />

Available in a 100g wedge (C17) or 1kg wheel (C18).<br />

76<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Over the moon | Feature<br />

Fresh<br />

RICOTTA<br />

Gold Medal, New Zealand<br />

Champions of Cheese<br />

Awards 2019<br />

A versatile ingredient and delicious on its own this<br />

fresh cheese has a slightly sweet taste and contains<br />

a low 13% fat. Like many fresh cheeses, it is highly<br />

perishable and is best eaten within a few days of<br />

opening the container.<br />

Wine match: Sweet wines with dessert dishes<br />

Available in 300g vacuum packed bags (C19).<br />

FRESH GOAT CURD<br />

Bronze Medal, New Zealand<br />

Champions of Cheese<br />

Awards 2016<br />

Moist with a mild but tart fresh goat milk flavour<br />

this curd is rind-less and off-white in colour. It also<br />

contains much less salt than many other goat milk<br />

cheeses.<br />

Our favourite way to eat it is moulded into a roll<br />

then sprinkled with herbs and drizzled with extravirgin<br />

olive oil – sliced and served with crackers or<br />

bread.<br />

Wine match: Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, or<br />

Sparkling wine.<br />

Available in 150g (G30), 500g (G31) or 1kg vacuum packed bags (G32).<br />

HALLOUMI<br />

Gold Medal, New Zealand<br />

Champions of Cheese<br />

Awards 2019<br />

Our Halloumi is softer than usual and deliciously<br />

salty. A frying or grilling cheese, Halloumi holds its<br />

shape when heated becoming crisp and golden<br />

on the outside with a delicately soft inside.<br />

Wine match: Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, or Pinot Gris.<br />

Available in approximately 150g square (C33).<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

77


Feature | Over the moon<br />

the blues<br />

CREAMY BLUE<br />

Gold Medal, New Zealand<br />

Champions of Cheese<br />

Awards 2019<br />

Smooth, rich and decadently creamy with a sharp<br />

blue bite. Velvety in texture with a piquant 'blue'<br />

taste and a soft finish Creamy Blue is an all-round<br />

beautiful blue cheese.<br />

Wine match: Merlot or Port.<br />

Available in a 130g wedge (C21), 300g wedge (C21), 1kg disc (C21), ½ wheel (C21) or 3-3.5kg full wheel (C22).<br />

GOAT BLUE<br />

Bronze Medal, New Zealand<br />

Champions of Cheese<br />

Awards 2010<br />

A crumbly blue vein, Goat Blue has a beautifully<br />

balanced tangy goat flavour with hints of<br />

sweetness.<br />

Wine match: Marlborough Pinot Noir or Port.<br />

Available in a 130g wedge (G23), 1kg disc (G23), ½ wheel (G23) or 3-3.5kg full wheel (G24).<br />

WILLTON<br />

by Neil Willman<br />

Bronze Medal, New Zealand<br />

Champions of Cheese<br />

Awards 2019<br />

Another signature cheese by international cheese<br />

judge and Cheese Master Neil Willman and<br />

designed especially for Over the Moon. This is our<br />

deluxe blue and the flavour is well balanced, strong<br />

and complex. The cheese is firm with a creamy<br />

mouth feel. It’s slightly crumbly when young and is<br />

peppery with a slightly salty finish. The paste is ivory<br />

with lots of deep blue veins.<br />

Available in 130g wedge, 300g wedge, 1kg disc, ½ or full wheel (33.5kg)<br />

78<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Over the moon | Feature<br />

Semi-hard cheese<br />

RED PLANET<br />

Rich orange in colour Red planet is our take on the<br />

traditional English Red Leicester cheese. Cheddar<br />

like in flavour with a touch more acidity this cheese<br />

is ideal as a table cheese, for grating or grilling, and<br />

as part of a cheese platter.<br />

The colour is derived from the natural colouring<br />

annatto.<br />

Wine match: Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot or Beer.<br />

Available in a 100g wedge (C36) or 13kg wheel (C37).<br />

Additional cuts available by request and include 1kg wedge (C36) and ½ wheels (C36).<br />

JUST KIDDING<br />

Just kidding is a rind-less semi-hard 100% goat<br />

milk cheese. Pale ivory this cheese has a delicate<br />

aroma, sweet notes and a lingering finish.<br />

This cheese is perfect on a cheeseboard, and melts<br />

making it an excellent garnish on a warm dish.<br />

Wine match: Pinot Gris, late harvest Riesling,<br />

Pinot Noir.<br />

Available in a 100g wedge (G38) or 6kg wheel (G39).<br />

Additional cuts available by request and include 1kg wedge (G38) and ½ wheels (G38).<br />

THE BLACK SHEEP<br />

Unique Ossau-Iraty Style semi-hard Sheep<br />

milk cheese.<br />

by Neil Willman<br />

Inspired by the Basque region in Spain. The smoked<br />

paprika on the rind gives it a smoky flavour, and the<br />

cheese is fruity and nutty with a creamy texture and<br />

ivory white interior.<br />

At 10 months old, this cheese has developed into a<br />

well-rounded cheese which lends itself to a cheese<br />

platter, or grilling.<br />

Wine match: Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot.<br />

Available in 100g wedges (S48) or 3.5kg wheel (S49)<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

79


Feature | Over the moon<br />

WENSLEYDALE WITH<br />

CRANBERRIES<br />

Christmas release<br />

Seasonal releases<br />

This lovely celebration cheese is pale white with a<br />

firm paste. The slightly sweet flavour has subtle floral<br />

characteristics, enhanced by the addit ion of tart<br />

red cranberries.<br />

In England it’s traditionally eaten with Christmas<br />

cake sheer indulgence! This cheese is perfect<br />

a s part of your special Christmas entertaining<br />

cheeseboard .<br />

Wine match: Port and Oak aged whiskey.<br />

Available in a 100g wedge (C42) or contact us to order your special size (C42).<br />

O.M.G. TRIPLE CREAM<br />

BRIE HEART<br />

These pretty hearts are released seasonally at<br />

Valentine’s Day and Mothers day and can be<br />

made on request.<br />

Voluptuous and creamy, this decadent Brie is our<br />

most popular cheese. Soft and rich, the OMG Triple<br />

Cream Brie has a luscious buttery flavour.<br />

Lovely on a cheese platter or antipasto plate.<br />

Wine match: Chardonnay, Pinot Gris<br />

or Champagne.<br />

Over The Moon Dairy Co.<br />

33 Tirau Street, Putaruru 3411<br />

Phone +64 7 8838 238<br />

Fax +64 7 8838 235<br />

Orders @ overthemoondairy.c0.nz<br />

www.overthemoondairy.co.nz<br />

80<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Lyre's | Feature<br />

Lyre’s a winner<br />

Launched<br />

in Australia<br />

in July 2019,<br />

Lyre’s Non-<br />

Alcoholic<br />

Spirits is a<br />

range of<br />

13 alcoholfree<br />

classic<br />

spirits and<br />

three recently<br />

launched premixed<br />

RTDs.<br />

Inspired in 2017 by Mark<br />

Livings, he saw the<br />

challenges of balancing a<br />

professional life as MD of a<br />

successful business with the<br />

need to stay social at the<br />

same time. This was a broader<br />

trend he recognised and saw<br />

in his team, especially when the<br />

no or low alcohol drink options<br />

always involved a compromise.<br />

He asked the question–how<br />

can we all stay social, without<br />

compromising taste?<br />

Lyre’s was created so social<br />

people looking for more mindful<br />

options could still enjoy a<br />

sophisticated drink. With Lyre’s,<br />

any bartender or at home drinker<br />

can transform the rich world of<br />

mixed drinks and cocktails into<br />

low or non-alcoholic versions. By<br />

reaching for a Lyre’s, you have<br />

the building blocks of many of<br />

the world’s favourite drinks or your<br />

own creation.<br />

Lyre’s is crafted using allnatural<br />

essences, extracts and<br />

distillates to match the aroma,<br />

taste and appearance of the<br />

traditional spirit, without using<br />

alcohol as a base. The finest allnatural<br />

essences extracts and<br />

distillates from around the globe<br />

are blended with Lyre’s very own<br />

proprietary non-alcoholic base<br />

liquid.<br />

American Malt.<br />

Now with a global footprint in<br />

over 40 countries, Lyre’s continues<br />

to drive non-alcoholic category<br />

growth. The trend towards more<br />

mindful drinking is becoming the<br />

norm, and ‘Dry Jan’ and ‘Feb Fast’<br />

seem to be merging into one<br />

long alcohol-free period for some<br />

consumers. With the moderation<br />

movement sweeping across<br />

key global markets, increased<br />

demand for sophisticated<br />

adult-beverage alternatives<br />

like the Lyre’s range has been<br />

observed also in all geographies,<br />

underlining the trend is both<br />

disruptive, and global.<br />

Lyre’s is also now the most<br />

decorated non-alcoholic spirit<br />

brand globally, receiving 11<br />

medals at the 2020 San Diego<br />

International Wine & Spirits<br />

Challenge and 10 awards at<br />

the 2020 San Francisco World<br />

Spirits Competition. The collection<br />

was also honoured at the 2019<br />

SommCon’s Concours d’Spirits<br />

competition presented by Somm<br />

Journal, where Aperitif Rosso<br />

received a double gold when<br />

tasted against its alcoholic<br />

counterparts.<br />

Passionstar Martini.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />

81


Food | Food & Wine Events<br />

Food & Wine Events<br />

Marlborough wine group<br />

region major events<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

Wine and Food Festival<br />

(February)<br />

Young winemaker of the year<br />

(September)<br />

Cellarbration<br />

(October)<br />

Cellar door of the year<br />

(October)<br />

Wine Show<br />

(October)<br />

EVENTS FOR THE REST OF NEW ZEALAND<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

Central Otago Pinot Noir<br />

Celebration<br />

(January- February)<br />

North Canterbury Wine and Food<br />

Festival (Waipara Valley)<br />

(March)<br />

Hokitika Wildfoods Festival<br />

(March)<br />

Bluff Oysters Food Festival<br />

(May)<br />

Hawkes Bay Wine and Food<br />

(June)<br />

Wellington on a Plate<br />

(August)<br />

Whitianga Scallop Festival<br />

(September)<br />

Toast Martinborough<br />

(November)<br />

Waiheke Wine and Food Festival<br />

(Date unknown)<br />

Craggy Range<br />

(November)<br />

Taste of Auckland<br />

(November)<br />

Pinot Noir New Zealand<br />

Christchurch<br />

(February 2022)<br />

Wellington Wine & Food Festival<br />

(February)<br />

North Canterbury Wine &<br />

Food Festival<br />

(March)<br />

Wairarapa Wines Harvest Festival<br />

(May)<br />

Ripe Festival Wanaka<br />

(March)<br />

These are mostly annual events with dates being as accurate as possible.<br />

Please Google for updates as they are posted by organizers of events.<br />

82 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Autumn</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

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