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Winter issue of Adventure Magazine

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N E W Z E A L A N D<br />

ADVENTURE<br />

ISSUE <strong>226</strong><br />

JUN/JUL 2021<br />

NZ $10.90 incl. GST<br />

WHERE ACTIONS<br />

SPEAK LOUDER<br />

THAN WORDS


what's a story worth?<br />

For my birthday one of my sons bought<br />

for me a ‘thing’ called StoryWorth.<br />

Basically each week it sends you a<br />

topic and asks you to write about it. It<br />

covers everything from “what was your<br />

mother like as a child?” to “how have<br />

you changed since leaving school?”.<br />

Once the site has gathered enough<br />

stories it then makes it into a hardbound<br />

book.<br />

This week’s question was one that<br />

had me pondering for some time, but I<br />

thought I would share it with you. “What<br />

adventure do you remember the most?"<br />

My reply:<br />

Having had such a lifetime of<br />

adventures, how do you possibly<br />

choose one. But this is one that stood<br />

out as it was an adventure I felt I was<br />

lucky to make it back from.<br />

It was an 8-day rafting trip with Ultimate<br />

Descent down the Karamea River in the<br />

middle of winter in the mid 1990’s.<br />

It is a grade five river (bear in mind<br />

grade 6 is unraftable). The day we flew<br />

in by helicopter it was snowing hard and<br />

that night there was a big earthquake<br />

that changed the flow of the river. Add<br />

to that, the snow and rain created an<br />

additional one meter of water flow on<br />

the river. To make matters worse when<br />

the helicopter left in a rush, they took<br />

half of the food back and all of the toilet<br />

rolls!<br />

By the end of day two we had run out<br />

of food and had to eat dried chickpeas<br />

that had been stored in the ground from<br />

a previous trip.<br />

#<strong>226</strong><br />

monumental. Twice, Fritz, one of the<br />

support kayakers came up to us in the raft<br />

and said “if you fall out in the next kilometre<br />

you will drown” and then simply paddled off.<br />

We portaged dozens of rapids far too big<br />

to raft and also now unknown because the<br />

earthquake had changed the flow of the<br />

river, it was all new. End of day five 80%<br />

of the people were walking zombies, who<br />

could hardly hold on let alone paddle.<br />

The mountain radio did not work (before cell<br />

phones) so we could not be helicoptered<br />

out, so we had to simply do our best.<br />

The images here show what it was like all<br />

the time. If you look closely, you can see<br />

Mike Steel grabbing a woman that fell out<br />

in the death zone, cannot recall her name.<br />

Mike pulled her back in the raft but in doing<br />

so dislocated her shoulder.<br />

No one drowned but it was such a difficult<br />

trip it is used by Outdoor Qualification<br />

providers to show how a good trip can go<br />

really bad really quickly.<br />

Hmmm no toilet paper; my sister was<br />

reading a book that got thinner and thinner<br />

as the trip went on.<br />

Luckily not all our adventures have such<br />

dire consequences, but it seems that the<br />

ones you make it back from are the ones<br />

that you remember.<br />

If you have a story to tell – it does not have<br />

to be life or death feel free to reach out to us<br />

as we like featuring stories by our readers –<br />

send direct to the editor:<br />

Steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />

Steve Dickinson - Editor<br />

Each day was freezing, and the rapids<br />

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with technology features to keep you warm, dry and looking good.<br />

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23 Locations Nationwide - www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz 01


Lise Billon and Kilian Echallier ski touring in Engelberg, Switzerland.<br />

MATTIAS FREDRIKSSON © 2021 Patagonia, Inc.


page14<br />

Image by Derek Cheng Image provided by Nick Pascoe Image by Eric Skilling<br />

Image compliments Red Bull Content Pool<br />

page 20<br />

page 42<br />

page 50<br />

#<strong>226</strong><br />

contents<br />

14//The Ultimate Obstacle Course<br />

with Aniol Serrasolses<br />

20//Richmond Range<br />

Old Man and Lake Chalice Circuit<br />

26//Kate Courtney<br />

Training for success<br />

30//Central Otago River Journeys<br />

with Nick Pascoe<br />

36//To the Island<br />

Take the weather with you<br />

42//Rider on the Storm<br />

Angelo Concilio<br />

46//How to train your emotions<br />

with Dr Sven Hansen<br />

50//Go with the flow<br />

The joys of climbing<br />

56//Chasing the human connection<br />

In adventure photography<br />

88//Travel<br />

Travel bubbles<br />

Vanuatu<br />

plus<br />

72. gear guides<br />

86. subs<br />

96. active adventure<br />

FOLLOW US ON<br />

www.facebook.com/adventuremagnz<br />

adventuremagazine<br />

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz<br />

Nzadventuremag<br />

JOIN THE CONVERSATION<br />

#ADVENTUREMAGAZINE<br />

#FORTHEADVENTURE<br />

04//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong>


BEHIND THE COVER<br />

This photo was taken in 2019, on one of the<br />

busiest days of the season on Mt. Ruapehu at<br />

Whakapapa ski field, so I decided I wouldn’t use<br />

the lifts because they were jam packed. I took the<br />

Valley T Bar up to the top and bootpacked around<br />

for some better and untouched lines near the<br />

resort boundary line.<br />

I hiked about twenty to thirty minutes above the<br />

lifts, stopped for a break with some friends and<br />

took some photos. I noticed these two skiers<br />

traversing the cornice and climbing one of the<br />

Pinnacle peaks. It seemed like they were thinking<br />

about dropping into the backcountry, with a twenty<br />

meter drop below them. I happened to have<br />

my camera out, saw the opportunity and left my<br />

friends to set up the shot.<br />

we ARE climbing<br />

The Pinnacles, Mount Ruapehu - Image by Chris Chase<br />

With my body on the edge of the cornice, I zoomed<br />

in to them and framed the shot with the peaks<br />

behind. I shot quickly and managed to get a few<br />

good ones. Not a minute after I shot the photos<br />

did the cloud consume them and they had to<br />

retreat from their position.<br />

EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />

Steve Dickinson<br />

Mob: 027 577 5014<br />

steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />

ART DIRECTOR<br />

Lynne Dickinson<br />

design@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />

SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES<br />

subs@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />

DISTRIBUTION<br />

Ovato, Ph (09) 979 3000<br />

OTHER PUBLICATIONS (HARDCOPY AND ONLINE)<br />

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz<br />

www.adventuretraveller.co.nz<br />

www.adventurejobs.co.nz<br />

www.skiandsnow.co.nz<br />

@adventurevanlifenz<br />

PUBLISHERS<br />

NZ <strong>Adventure</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> is published six times a year by:<br />

Pacific Media Ltd, P.O.Box 562<br />

Whangaparaoa, New Zealand<br />

Ph: 0275775014<br />

Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />

adventuremagazine.co.nz | NZadventurebike<br />

adventurejobs.co.nz | adventuretraveller.co.nz<br />

Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must be accompanied by a stamped selfaddressed<br />

envelope. Photographic material should be on slide, although good quality prints may<br />

be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility accepted for submitted material. All work<br />

published may be used on our website. Material in this publication may not be reproduced without<br />

permission. While the publishers have taken all reasonable precautions and made all reasonable<br />

effort to ensure the accuracy of material in this publication, it is a condition of purchase of<br />

this magazine that the publisher does not assume any responsibility or liability for loss or<br />

damage which may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or from the use of<br />

information contained herein and the publishers make no warranties, expressed or implied, with<br />

respect to any of the material contained herein.<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />

Whereever we go,<br />

our preferred car<br />

hire is...<br />

WINTER WARMER<br />

As the weather cools across the country<br />

it's timely to lean towards those drinks<br />

that warm us up. Hot toddy style drinks<br />

are steeped in history as before ice was<br />

readily available it was common to serve<br />

drinks not only at room temperature but<br />

hot. Originating in India and made from<br />

the sap of palm trees, hot toddies date<br />

back to the 1700s. Commonly known for<br />

their medicinal touch for poorly peeps, why<br />

not get creative and drum up a hot cocktail<br />

to batch up on those cold winter nights and<br />

preferably next to a fire.<br />

Make in a hot toddy glass<br />

1 jigger (60mls) whiskey<br />

1 barspoon of agave - leave out if you<br />

want a less sweeter option<br />

A couple of cloves and a cinnamon stick<br />

A quarter jigger of Tangelo Liqueur @<br />

kiwispiritdistillery<br />

A few dashes of orange bitters<br />

Top with hot rooibos tea with vanilla and<br />

stir gently with a cocktail spoon.<br />

Follow Sue on Instagram: @cocktailontherock<br />

To sign up for the weekly newsletter: www.cocktailontherock.co.nz<br />

Takeshi Tani<br />

Virtual Reality, WI5+/6<br />

Banff National Park, Canada<br />

For over thirty years Bivouac Outdoor has been proudly 100% New Zealand owned and committed to<br />

providing you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. It is the same gear<br />

we literally stake our lives on, because we are committed to adventure and we ARE climbing.<br />

Photo: John Price<br />

johnpricephotographic.com<br />

World Class Indoor Climbing<br />

First visit $25* then free for a week!<br />

Fantastic community, beginners<br />

welcome, boulder classes for all ages<br />

and abilities, inquire now.<br />

* Discounts for youths and own gear<br />

Student Mondays, entry $15<br />

www.northernrocks.co.nz<br />

@northernrocks.climbing<br />

Unit 17, 101-111 Diana Drive,<br />

Wairau Valley, Auckland | 09 278 2363<br />

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OFFICIAL GEAR SUPPLIER<br />

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PHOTO HOMESTAY<br />

How would you like to improve your photography skills whilst<br />

being hosted in in one of the most beautiful parts of the world?<br />

Chris McLennan has led photography expeditions all around<br />

the world, but Glenorchy in the South Island is his home and<br />

certainly one of his favorite places to photograph. It is not<br />

hard to see why he chooses to live in this amazing location.<br />

Chris has been running photo workshops from his home in<br />

Glenorchy since last winter. These small, intimate photo<br />

workshops (Glenorchy Photo Homestays) are a great way<br />

to advance your photography skills in a one-on-one setting.<br />

You will be guided to spots in Glenorchy to photograph the<br />

landscapes that only a local will know. Not only will you<br />

learn new photography techniques but you will work on post<br />

production as well. Each workshop is customized to suit the<br />

guests.<br />

The mountains around Chris’s home will draw you in but<br />

so will the weather. The landscape and sky gets incredibly<br />

moody as dramatic weather rolls in. There are endless<br />

photographic locations that change with fog, clouds and mist<br />

in the most beautiful way.<br />

08//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong><br />

Glenorchy Photo Homestays were designed to<br />

accommodate groups of 1 – 4 and staying in Chris’s<br />

home allows for photography on the fly. If the night sky is<br />

clear the back yard is a perfect place to learn more about<br />

astrophotography.<br />

The 2 night, 2 day photography workshop will start with a<br />

meet and greet on night 1 and includes airport pickups if<br />

required from Queenstown, all transportation, photography<br />

workshop, access to private land and modern comfortable<br />

accommodation in Chris’s home.<br />

Come stay in Chris’s home, learn from him and experience<br />

Glenorchy.<br />

Further information and bookings:<br />

www.chrismclennanphotography.com<br />

https://bit.ly/CMphoto_homestay<br />

Email: chris@chrismclennanphotography.com<br />

BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA


FUTURE RETRO<br />

WITH WARREN MILLER<br />

In early May Warren Miller’s 71st feature film screened across New Zealand in<br />

cinemas and will rage through winter till mid July.With the days getting shorter and<br />

snow hitting the alpine areas, it is a great reminder that sliding on snow is not too far<br />

away and a new Warren Miller film is about to launch. Warren Miller Entertainment<br />

(WME) and <strong>Adventure</strong> Entertainment (AE) are excited to announce to Warren Miller<br />

fans that the tradition continues, with the cinematic release of the brand’s 71st film,<br />

Future Retro presented by Switzerland.<br />

In Future Retro, progressive, young female skiers Lexi duPont and Amie<br />

Engerbretson journey to the heart of deep-rooted ski culture in Switzerland, and<br />

freeskiers Baker Boyd and Victor Major rip the endless peaks of Iceland, using a<br />

1,300-year-old farm as their base camp. A trio of world-class snowboarders Elena<br />

Hight, Danny Davis and Nick Russell travel to Antarctica and witness the impact of<br />

climate change.<br />

Legendary skiers Scot Schmidt and the Egan brothers show a new crop of athletes<br />

how they were responsible for the extreme-skiing movement of the ’80s and ’90s,<br />

and the next generation of skiers and riders show us what it means to challenge the<br />

status quo. From competitive triumph on the road to the podium at the World Cup<br />

in Killington to pushing boundaries of big-mountain skiing in Alaska, Future Retro<br />

presented by Switzerland will be that connection—past, present and future.<br />

Future Retro presented by Switzerland, was premiere on May 7 in Auckland, the first<br />

city in the Southern Hemisphere to screen the film, before moving right across both<br />

North & South islands. All movie goers have the chance to enter the Major Prize<br />

competition which includes fantastic overseas holidays, gear, beer and more! Get<br />

your mates & family together to get the stoke fired up for winter and witness some<br />

amazing skiing & snowboarding on the big screen.<br />

Join this collective experience as the legacy continues.<br />

Go to warrenmiller.co.nz to learn more & purchase tickets.<br />

Featured Athletes<br />

Jim Ryan | Kaylin Richardson | Lexi duPont | Amie Engerbretson | Baker Boyd |<br />

Victor Major | Forrest Jillson | Tanner Rainville | Tom Day | John Egan | Dan Egan |<br />

Scot Schmidt | Jack Lovely | Maria Lovely | Parkin Costain | Elena Hight | Danny<br />

Davis | Nick Russell | Marcus Caston


70,000 followers can't be wrong<br />

JOIN THE CONVERSATION<br />

12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong><br />

@ adventuremagazine<br />

@ adventuretraveller @ adventurevanlifenz


THE ULTIMATE<br />

OBSTACLE<br />

COURSE<br />

Despite the limitations 2020 imposed<br />

on us all, it didn't stop Spanish<br />

kayaker Aniol Serrasolses and a<br />

crew heading to Chile to set up the<br />

ultimate natural obstacle course<br />

featuring a 25km descent down a<br />

snowy volcano, sailing through<br />

dense forest before landing the<br />

world’s first double kickflip in a<br />

kayak over a waterfall, and finally<br />

setting down on a glassy lake, all at<br />

speeds of over 100kms.<br />

The route started at the summit of the<br />

volcano, went through the forest near<br />

the slopes of the Palguín river, over the<br />

Tomatita waterfall on the Captrén river<br />

and culminated in the Villarrica Lake –<br />

connecting water, land, wind and fire in<br />

a single journey.<br />

"These are the elements where I feel<br />

most alive. I've always felt comfortable<br />

connecting mountains, forests and<br />

rivers. I can't imagine a life away from<br />

them," says Serrasolses.<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 15


"The part on the snow was<br />

kind of the hardest part as a<br />

kayak is not really made for the<br />

snow, so you ride it like a sled"<br />

The ambitious project didn’t go hitch-free, though – the high<br />

speed the kayak reached when gliding over the snow caused a<br />

spectacular crash.<br />

"The part on the snow was kind of the hardest part as a kayak<br />

is not really made for the snow, so you ride it like a sled. You<br />

go really fast but you’re kind of out of control. On one of those<br />

descents I lost control before reaching a section with ice blocks.<br />

I hit one of those blocks at about 80kph and it sent me flying<br />

more than 10 metres. I tried to control it in the air, but in the end, I<br />

ended up falling on totally hard snow."<br />

“That crash is next level as the snow was pretty hard. Definitely,<br />

that one hurt. My idea was to go around those pieces of ice and<br />

avoid them. Before doing that move, my kayak started spinning<br />

out of control. So, I went straight onto the ice and it sent me into<br />

the air."<br />

Previous Page: Aniol stands at the top of the old lift station before dropping in. This station maintained itself intact after<br />

the eruption of the volcano in 1984<br />

Above: Flying off a cliff in volcano Rukapillan and high speed riding through the slopes<br />

Above: Wall ride in the rio Nevados.<br />

Following page:: Aniol launches a Switch Panam off 18 meter Tomatita falls in the Captren river<br />

16//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong>


As if high speed and unusual kayaking terrain<br />

weren’t enough, when he reached the waterfall,<br />

Serrasolses scored a manoeuvre never seen<br />

before on a kayak: the first double kickflip.<br />

"The trick is to do two full rotations in the air. It's<br />

been tried for many years surfing waves in the river<br />

or the sea, without success," says Serrasolses.<br />

"This time I managed it on the first attempt and I<br />

couldn't be happier. The next one will clearly have<br />

to be the triple, won't it?"<br />

"This whole concept was to take kayaking out of<br />

its element, rather than always down rapids and<br />

waterfalls," he explains. "That double kickflip is a<br />

double rotation and it’s been attempted many times<br />

before, but no one has ever succeeded. This time<br />

it just went really good. I got two rotations on my<br />

first try but it took a lot of commitment to do it off<br />

that height. If you don’t land correctly, the impact<br />

on your back is hard… Actually it’s hard even if you<br />

land it correctly!"<br />

So is he planning to go even bigger on his next<br />

project? Perhaps not: "Over the last few years<br />

my focus has been a lot on the progression of<br />

the sport – the hardest waterfalls, the biggest<br />

water rivers, the highest waters. As I’m getting<br />

older, I want to do more creative stuff and more<br />

shooting and projects to put kayaking in really cool<br />

locations, where it hasn’t been seen as much."<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 19


hiking<br />

TALES<br />

RICHMOND RANGE<br />

OLD MAN AND LAKE CHALICE CIRCUIT<br />

By Eric Skilling<br />

"Despite being at less than<br />

2,000 metres high, the low<br />

cloud and steep barren ridges<br />

made us feel like we were on<br />

top of the world."<br />

It is easy to understand why the 3,000 km Te Araroa Trail<br />

crosses the Richmond Range. If you wanted to show<br />

off New Zealand it would be a crime not to include this<br />

spectacular bit of country – rugged and exposed peaks<br />

with unique vistas ringed by stunning native forests which<br />

hide crystal-clear streams and waterfalls and arguably<br />

the loudest concentration of native birds outside of any<br />

sanctuary. It seems bold to single out less than 100km of<br />

the Te Araroa but do the miles to those barren tops and you<br />

get to enjoy the superb landscapes that are reckoned to be<br />

“…. amongst the very finest along Te Araroa ”.<br />

Spending time here is a reminder of why hiking is becoming<br />

so popular.<br />

You would be a little crazy to attempt the more exposed<br />

sections of the track in bad weather. Along with those views<br />

come exposed drop-offs that will keep you focused even<br />

when the weather is great, with the added challenge of few<br />

chances to refill water-bottles as you traverse the ridges.<br />

But this is sunny Marlborough so it is more likely you will<br />

get enjoy those landscapes in brilliant sunshine and cooling<br />

breezes especially if like us, you arrived there just after<br />

Christmas under a cloudless blue sky.<br />

There is plenty of choice in the park with 250 km of tracks<br />

and 30 huts, but our party of six were attempting a four-day<br />

circuit that would take us from Lake Chalice to Old Man hut,<br />

a day trip to summit Little Rintoul and then a return via the<br />

Goulter river back to the lake.<br />

Driving to the start of the track is an experience by itself<br />

although we managed it without the aid of 4-wheel drive.<br />

The gravel road quickly narrows to a narrow winding track<br />

with plenty of switchbacks and a fallen tree to negotiate.<br />

20//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 21


Stopping at the Enchanted Lookout is well worth the<br />

vista of the meandering Wairau River, its banks marked<br />

out with a kaleidoscope of neatly outlined paddocks and<br />

orchards, to the rugged gullies and landscapes of the<br />

Raglan Range and the distant Kaikoura peaks, tipped<br />

with snow after a recent snowfall.<br />

After a short walk we emerged from the pine forest and<br />

found ourselves looking down at a tranquil scene - Lake<br />

Chalice hut nestled in beech forest, bordered on one<br />

side by a noisy stream making its way down to the lake.<br />

Even better, that was the last of the pine trees.<br />

Arriving at a hut in early afternoon has its perks.<br />

Firstly, you get to book a bunk for the night much to<br />

the disappointment of the Ashburton Tramping Club<br />

members who arrived a few hours later, but we also had<br />

enough time to enjoy the 6.5km circuit of Lake Chalice,<br />

a far cry from the more challenging terrain we would<br />

face over the next three days. Formed by a massive<br />

landslide two thousand years ago the lake has no outlet<br />

stream, with the lake draining through landslide rubble<br />

to the Goulter Stream. Overnighting in Lake Chalice hut<br />

was a pleasure.<br />

Next day we followed the track into the forest. This is<br />

steep country. But so spectacular. The forests vary from<br />

podocarp to lush beech forests, scattered with ancient<br />

rimu, rata and kahikatea, and chilly but crystal-clear<br />

streams that make carrying full water bottles a waste<br />

of energy. The streams were flowing deep enough to<br />

offer up some priceless photos and videos but shallow<br />

enough to avoid wet boots.<br />

The track itself is mostly up. Lots of up. When it is not<br />

going up it follows the contour through a marked but<br />

largely unformed track. However, we were cheered<br />

on by tui, robin and the one-bird orchestra that is our<br />

inimitable bellbird.<br />

Finally, after an about seven hours or so we emerged<br />

out onto Old Man ridge and quickly forgot all aches as<br />

we soaked up the wilderness eye-candy from the ridge.<br />

It had been a tough day but the vistas around us made<br />

the effort all worthwhile.<br />

The track then followed the ridge line through mountain<br />

beech draped in fronds of moss followed by barren<br />

rocky outcrops and scree slopes. Having climbed over<br />

1,000 metres to Old Man ridge, the loss of almost<br />

200 metres in altitude down to Old Man Hut was as<br />

disheartening as watching a weka making off with your<br />

lunch, but it was still a pleasure to emerge out onto the<br />

large grassy clearing into the shadow of Little Rintoul<br />

towering several hundred metres above us.<br />

Finding a relatively flat clearing as large as this was<br />

pleasantly surprising considering the steepness of the<br />

surrounding country, which was just as well as we were<br />

going to share the site with 3 other groups that night.<br />

We set up camp and then sat down to a well-earned<br />

dinner and large cups of hot, sweetened coffee in the<br />

cooling evening. A little after dusk a cool damp mist<br />

rolled across the ridge which was enough to send us<br />

all to the warmth of sleeping bags and a tent. I certainly<br />

appreciated the warmth of my Macpac gear.<br />

Enjoying a couple of nights at this site was one of<br />

the many highlights of a memorable trip. I cherish the<br />

nights spent in a tent drifting off to sleep to the calls of<br />

weka and morepork (check out “the joy of camping”),<br />

but both mornings I gave up trying to pick out the<br />

various bird calls in the dawn chorus. There seemed to<br />

be a competition to be the loudest, most melodic bird<br />

of the morning, all for our benefit. There were just too<br />

many calls to identify individual species, so I just lay<br />

back in my tent and savoured the moment.<br />

Later that morning the walk back up to the ridge with<br />

day packs and a cooling westerly turned out to be a<br />

breeze compared to the previous day’s efforts. We<br />

emerged from the bush-line into bright sunshine and<br />

scrambled through the sparse vegetation onto the<br />

shattered rocks on the slopes of Little Rintoul.<br />

It did not feel all that long before we were making<br />

our way cautiously along the narrow track with its<br />

steep drop-off and onto the barren summit. The views<br />

seemed way out of proportion to the effort. It was<br />

like we were on top of the world with the steepness of<br />

the ridge around us and the low cloud blanketing the<br />

valleys to the west. To the east the mighty Kaikoura<br />

Range stood out on the horizon, still white-capped after<br />

the snowfall the days before we arrived.<br />

Seven hundred metres below Old Man Hut looked<br />

small and vulnerable against the vast beech forests<br />

and ridges that surrounded it. It took a bit of effort by<br />

our long-suffering leader to prise us off the peaks and<br />

ridges that day.<br />

Top left: Lake Chalice and Old Man Circuit / Top right: Evening mist rolling into the Old Man campsite had us all<br />

clambering into the warmth of our sleeping bags early that evening.<br />

Clockwise from top: Scambling the barren rock up Little Rintoul, with Old Man Hut a mere spec 700m below us / Hiking<br />

through the dense podocarp forests with the crystal clear streams and birdlife was a real priviledge / North back along<br />

the ridge from Little Rintoul with two of our party on the sub-peak / The surreal atmosphere of moss cover mountain<br />

beach on Old Man Ridge<br />

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Eventually we made our way off the ridge and back to a<br />

deserted Old Man hut. That evening we enjoyed another<br />

one of those very satisfying meals and watched as Little<br />

Rintoul turned red in the sunset. Then as so often happens<br />

after the shared experience of a tough and exhilarating<br />

few days, the banter flowed, and new friendships were<br />

cemented.<br />

Walking out alongside the Goulter river next day turned<br />

out to be a bit trickier than we expected. It wasn’t quite<br />

believable that the time given for the mostly downhill hike<br />

back to Lake Chalice via Goulter river was the same seven<br />

hours it took to climb up along Old Man track. Perhaps we<br />

were a bit light-headed at the thought of that beer chilling in<br />

the fridge at Linkwater and the New Year’s Eve celebrations<br />

that night. Regardless, we took a cursory look at the Topo<br />

map and decided the recommended time had to be wrong.<br />

The Goulter River is one of those classic crystal-clear<br />

South Island rivers, cascading over multi-coloured smooth<br />

rounded boulders, and which we crossed more times than<br />

I would care to remember. Seven hours after leaving Old<br />

Man we emerged onto the clearing at Lake Chalice hut, with<br />

sodden boots, a few aches and several scrapes bearing<br />

witness to another solid day’s efforts.<br />

Cracking day<br />

for a stroll.<br />

CASS VALLEY, NEW ZEALAND<br />

TEMPERATURE 9° | ELEVATION 1783M<br />

As usual all that effort was forgotten once we were back<br />

at Linkwater, enjoying the company and banter of fellow<br />

adventurers in the garden bar of the local restaurant, a wellearned<br />

beer in hand and a meal cooked by someone else.<br />

Unfortunately, none of our group welcomed in the New Year,<br />

but I think we could be excused.<br />

The Richmond Range is another gem in the crown that<br />

is the New Zealand wilderness, offering jaw-dropping<br />

panoramas, dawn-choruses that you will reminisce forever,<br />

beautiful beech forests and enough challenging climbs<br />

to make that evening meal and coffee the tastiest, most<br />

satisfying you have enjoyed in an awfully long time. A great<br />

setting for some shared challenges and an opportunity to<br />

make new friends.<br />

Thanks to Macpac, Keen, Backcountry Cuisine and Jetboil.<br />

Top to bottom: Spirits were high as we left Little Rintoul and headed back to an empty Old Man Hut / The view from<br />

Enchanted Lookout across the Wairau River Valley and the mighty Kiakouras is well worth the stop / We crossed the<br />

crystal clear waters of the Goulter Stream more times than I care to remember<br />

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KATE COURTNEY<br />

TRAINING FOR SUCCESS<br />

American mountain biker Kate Courtney reveals her training regime and 2021<br />

goals. With a cross-country World Championship and overall World Cup title<br />

already in the bag, Kate Courtney is rightly viewed as one of the world’s best<br />

mountain bike riders. But the 25-year-old is only just getting started and has<br />

created the ultimate home backyard training set-up to help her add to her already<br />

significant haul of trophies. Known as her fitness fortress, the area boasts a<br />

well-stocked gym complete, zwift set-up, ice bath and even her very own outdoor<br />

sauna. Here is what the American had to say about her training regime, the<br />

importance of recovery and what she hopes to achieve during the 2021 race<br />

season:<br />

What’s your first memory of cycling? My first vivid cycling memory is riding on the<br />

back of the tandem with my dad. We went out in the rain, there was no-one else on the<br />

mountain and the weather continued to decline. We ended up seeking shelter and we<br />

found five crumpled up dollars in my dad’s saddle bag, so we got blueberry pancakes.<br />

Of course to me that was the most epic day and for the longest time that’s what cycling<br />

was; a way to spend time with my dad, to get out and if I’m lucky, get some blueberry<br />

pancakes.<br />

I think the connections that you form while cycling are really unique, partly because it’s<br />

a sport where you can be side by side, or on the tandem I was behind and you can talk.<br />

It's really a great way to connect with people, whether it was my parents, my brother<br />

growing up, or now some of my closest friends.<br />

What does your typical training regime look like? I would say my lowest weeks are<br />

15 to 17 hours on the bike and my biggest weeks are 25 to 30 hours, but those are<br />

rarer. I consider strength training part of my fitness training and I spend anywhere from<br />

two to six hours a week in the gym. I trained a lot more volume last year, as I didn’t<br />

travel much and did 20 to 25 hour a week of training, every week.<br />

I approach it on a two-year cycle and last year was what we referred to as a<br />

development year, which also changes this year quite a bit and that for me is quite<br />

exciting. I think it’s producing different results and I’m definitely coming into this second<br />

year approaching Tokyo more rested physically and mentally.<br />

The focus this spring is on the high-intensity, knife-sharpening race prep, which is my<br />

typical race build up; you do base, you have to do moderate training, then I start in<br />

spring to do intensity and for me that’s in the form of training camps.<br />

I just got back from Malibu where we did ‘Mali-Boot Camp’ with three of my old teammates.<br />

We design these camps to really push me and help me progress towards<br />

racing, then training gets a bit more intensity-and recovery-focused once we hit the race<br />

season.<br />

I do yoga, I do mobility work, I work with a PT and do a lot of recovery activities outside<br />

of training like foam rolling, ice baths and saunas. And number one – very good sleep!


"For me, I think preparation is the antidote to those<br />

challenging situations, because at the end of the day<br />

you can only control what you can control."<br />

How important is recovery in the training process?<br />

I think that’s the frontier of sports performance right<br />

now. If you are always going at 75 to 90 percent of<br />

max, you never recover, but you also never hit that 100<br />

percent. It’s about using your motivation and your skills<br />

at planning and resting to maximise those important<br />

sessions and avoiding those medium-effort, mediummotivation<br />

which burn you out in the long run.<br />

Do you find it hard to switch off on your rest days?<br />

I’m working on it! I’m proud of this year; I’ve taken more<br />

complete rest days and that’s something that I used to<br />

not do. I use Whoop to track my recovery and every day<br />

that I take as a complete rest, the next day I’m in the<br />

green, so it definitely works.<br />

It’s a challenge for me managing how much I do on<br />

these rest days, because I have to do something during<br />

and I think my dog has been my secret weapon! I’ll<br />

take him for a walk, I’ll take him to the beach; I’ve done<br />

something, but it’s quite relaxing.<br />

What about the mental side of fitness and health<br />

– do you train that? Definitely! I work with a sports<br />

psychologist and I have for the past five years. I<br />

personally think that the mental game is a huge part of<br />

success, but it’s also a huge part of just being a healthy,<br />

happy person in the long run. I think that dealing with<br />

situations and emotions requires certain skills and<br />

perspectives that need to be developed and for me<br />

that’s done through sports psychology, plus reading,<br />

journalling and all of those kinds of things where I give<br />

myself space and time.<br />

Do you get nervous before races and if so how do<br />

you manage that? I do, definitely; I think everyone<br />

does and I think nerves are a sign you really care about<br />

something. For me, I think preparation is the antidote<br />

to those challenging situations, because at the end of<br />

the day you can only control what you can control. If<br />

you manage those things, hopefully the outcome takes<br />

care of itself and if it doesn’t, hopefully you’ll have more<br />

opportunities in the future.<br />

Do you use online training as part of your<br />

preparation? I’m doing my first Zwift race! I’m trying<br />

to embrace the opportunities that we do have to stay<br />

in shape, not just ‘in shape’ in the normal way – I can<br />

train – but I think there are some things you definitely<br />

get from competition that you can’t replicate and that’s<br />

what I learned last year. You can race yourself around<br />

as much as you want, but for your central nervous<br />

system actual racing is just a different stimulus. We’ve<br />

been looking for more ways to incorporate that into<br />

my training, whether it’s Strava segments, getting<br />

fast people to ride with or compete with, or even Zwift<br />

racing, which I said I would never do! I’m doing some<br />

small warm-up ones, some very random races, because<br />

I think that there’s some finesse to it, but I will report<br />

back!<br />

What about the research being done into female<br />

athletes training around the menstrual cycle. Is that<br />

something you look at within your training? I have<br />

and I’ve worked with Red Bull on that. I think it’s very<br />

important and very interesting that people are finally<br />

looking at the differences between men and women.<br />

Hopefully there’ll continue to be more studies, not just<br />

around menstruation but also nutrition in the future and<br />

training. I think a lot of these baselines that we take for<br />

granted are based on research done primarily on men<br />

and so that kind of cutting-edge research is going to be<br />

important moving forward and it’s exciting that they’re<br />

finally doing more.<br />

What drew you to study human biology – did it<br />

come from your interest in sport or is it something<br />

you’ve always had a passion for? I think it was a little<br />

bit unrelated to cycling. I studied human biology, which<br />

at Stanford University is a very interdisciplinary major<br />

and we have a lot of freedom to tailor it to your interests.<br />

I was interested in global health and technology<br />

innovation, so it was a very Silicon Valley thing to be<br />

looking into.<br />

I really enjoyed learning about health, less on a<br />

biological individual basis and more on an aggregate<br />

basis. Of course we had to take bio and get all of those<br />

fundamentals, but I was more interested in public health<br />

and global health level of analysis and that’s certainly<br />

something that’s been very interesting this year!<br />

Did your studies include wearable tech? It was<br />

health tech and wearables, mobile apps, those kinds of<br />

things. And being where Stanford is, in Silicon Valley,<br />

meant it was a really unique experience – we got a lot<br />

of exposure to local start-ups and people coming in and<br />

telling us about things that might be on the horizon,<br />

which was really exciting.I hope to head back to some of<br />

that someday, but I enjoy focusing on bikes right now.<br />

Where does your confidence come from? I heard<br />

a definition of it recently that was ‘confidence is the<br />

belief that you can uphold promises that you make to<br />

yourself’. You can develop confidence from different<br />

parts of your life, but for me it’s about believing that I<br />

can do things that I set out to do on the bike.<br />

It’s a strategic combination of working on mental skills<br />

and managing the external environment to give me an<br />

opportunity to build confidence. It’s not always going<br />

to be linear and perfect, but if you’re progressing and<br />

getting better, you’re going to feel great!<br />

Previous Page:Kate Courtney / Right: Kate in action.<br />

Images by Emily Tidwell / Red Bull Content Pool<br />

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kayaking<br />

TALES<br />

CENTRAL OTAGO<br />

RIVER JOURNEYS<br />

By Nick Pascoe<br />

There are Graham Sydney paintings on walls<br />

throughout the country portraying the rolling<br />

tussocked hills of Central Otago. It’s known for<br />

wine, fruit, the rail trail, and stunning summer days.<br />

However the high plateaus hide other gems and<br />

in amongst them you can find a network of New<br />

Zealand’s best wilderness rivers.<br />

A cold winter brings snow to the mountains and hills.<br />

When this starts to melt and run off the area becomes<br />

a whitewater kayaking destination with rivers such as<br />

the Nevis, Waikaia, and Shotover, being established<br />

spring classics. Whitewater kayaking in New Zealand<br />

can be a fickle sport, requiring specific river levels, and<br />

complicated access plans. This has left many areas<br />

unexplored and new adventures to be found. With<br />

vision and a well timed Saturday evening phone call<br />

Will Martin and Shannon Mast roped myself and Max<br />

Rayner in to take a look at the Upper Pomohaka River.<br />

Sunday started with a flat tyre, snow beside the road<br />

after a late spring storm, and then two hours of fourwheel<br />

driving to the top of the Old Man Range where<br />

a snowdrift stopped us in our tracks in the heart of<br />

Central’s rolling hills with no river in sight. An hour of<br />

hiking with our boats saw us exploring the gold mining<br />

relics at the historic Junction hut, and relieved smiles<br />

on our faces as the river had enough water to float our<br />

kayaks.<br />

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It was 1pm and we had 20km of unknown wilderness river<br />

in front of us, so we promptly pushed off to enjoy the first<br />

few kms of stunning alpine country. A few boulder choked<br />

rapids kept us on our toes, until we came around a bend to<br />

see a horizon line in the river and a lone ancient beech tree<br />

far below us. With the river looking like it dropped off the<br />

edge of the world we expected a big portage and got out to<br />

inspect the rapid, to be pleasantly surprised to find a clean<br />

3m waterfall and boulder gardens. This was our entry into<br />

the beech forest, and a section of amazing whitewater. We<br />

made quick ground until encountering a more technical and<br />

consequential rapid. By this point it was late in the day, and<br />

our margin for error was disappearing along with the sun.<br />

We opted to bushwhack our boats up and around the rapid.<br />

I made an unfortunate misstep and gathered some cuts<br />

and bruises from a gravity assisted descent at one point,<br />

but we all made it back to the river safely. Our stoke came<br />

back with just a few paddle strokes on the river, and we all<br />

shared high fives half an hour later when we popped out of<br />

the beech forest and could relax and watch the sunset as<br />

we floated the few kilometres of flat water.<br />

We loaded our boats onto the waiting vehicle as it got dark.<br />

Satisfaction levels were high, but the trip wasn’t done yet<br />

with our other vehicle still parked way up in the hills where<br />

we’d left it that morning. A layer of low cloud had moved<br />

into the Teviot valley, and we crawled our way up through<br />

the mud and the murk onto the top of the Old Man Range<br />

once more. It was 11pm at night and we were above the<br />

cloud for a stunning moonrise, while crossing all fingers<br />

and toes that we didn’t get a vehicle stuck in the snow or<br />

mud. The cards fell our way, and I made it back to Wanaka<br />

at 1am thoroughly exhausted but stoked on exploring a<br />

new part of our backyard.<br />

A couple of weeks later conditions aligned once more, and<br />

five of us found ourselves at the Aspiring Helipad at midday<br />

on a Monday. It had rained the day before, and we hoped<br />

that the North Branch of the Motatapu River would now be<br />

at an ideal water level. As the heli gained elevation it was<br />

odd to gain a new perspective of our local area, Glendhu<br />

bay, Treble Cone ski area, and Wanaka itself. Only a few<br />

minutes later we found ourselves very much alone, high<br />

in an alpine valley with no marked access. Our friend Ben<br />

Young had done his chopper pilot training in Wanaka,<br />

and regularly flew this route as he gathered his hours.<br />

This river was his project, and after taking a moment to<br />

appreciate the snow capped mountains, we set to our task<br />

of discovering what the river held downstream.<br />

It was low volume and bouncy to begin with, much like<br />

a poorly shaped water slide. The alpine setting was<br />

spectacular though, and the moody afternoon light painted<br />

a stunning picture as we found a few bigger rapids and<br />

drops to really get our hair wet. It was not long until the<br />

river grew in size and became consistently steeper.<br />

The quality of the whitewater increased, however the<br />

opportunities to stop were slim and margins for error<br />

low. We took our time, settling into an efficient leap frog<br />

style where one person would get out and scope the line<br />

through the next rapid, and then if things looked positive<br />

wave us through. In this method we moved at a solid pace,<br />

with periodic interruptions to stretch our legs by walking<br />

around a rapid that was not going to leave a kayaker in a<br />

healthy state.<br />

Distance wise we began to get close to the confluence of<br />

the North and South Branches of the Motatapu, however<br />

we were conscious that the valley still looked a long way<br />

below us. We weren’t wrong, a particularly long section of<br />

tight continuous whitewater awaited. This section would’ve<br />

required linking consequential move after move for almost<br />

500 m, and while it seemed each move was possible we<br />

were conscious of the dwindling daylight and the fact we<br />

were still a long way from home. In the best interests of<br />

leaving our future selves something to aspire to (and more<br />

honestly our own self preservation in the moment) we<br />

opted for the tramping with kayaks option. Our portage<br />

put us back on the river at the top of another steep rapid,<br />

however we could see a pool at the bottom and too many<br />

great moves to ignore so we took turns at paddling the<br />

best rapid of the day. After emerging from this mini gorge<br />

thankfully the river did finally ease, and we popped out at<br />

the confluence with the South Branch.<br />

The sun was low in the sky, and floating through the far<br />

mellower whitewater we had ample time to appreciate the<br />

revegetation work going on around the Motatapu river.<br />

This was highlighted with one more mini gorge and two<br />

harder rapids amongst the beech forest. We emerged to a<br />

stunning sunset over Glendhu, rather thankful for going two<br />

from two and again escaping nightfall on the river.<br />

Spring had a kick in it’s tail though, and another weekend<br />

rain event lined up the Otago headwaters. This time my<br />

friend Cam Kerr and I had our eyes on another close-asthe-crow-flies<br />

Wanaka river, the Dingle Burn. Our ambition<br />

was to paddle from its source below Highlander Peak<br />

where it starts life as a small stream and follow it 30 km out<br />

to Lake Hawea.<br />

The weather was clear and sunny as we left Wanaka, but<br />

got steadily more gloomy as we approached the Ahuriri. A<br />

flooded river and muddy 4wd access into Ahuriri Base Hut<br />

boded well for our kayaking, but not so much for the uphill<br />

grunt to come. Our planned access route was to tramp<br />

600 m up onto the crest of the mountain range separating<br />

the Ahuriri valley from the Dingle Burn, and then descend<br />

to Top Dingle Hut. The climb was a proper slog, but we<br />

were able to move surprisingly quickly on the old farm<br />

track. Standing at 1450 m with our kayaks looking across<br />

to the snowy peaks of the Barrier Range was a stunning<br />

and surreal moment of ‘why did we think this was a good<br />

idea?’.<br />

The rain turned right back on for our descent, which was<br />

to prove more technical and scary than the kayaking to<br />

come. The track was muddy and slippery, and our kayaks<br />

were acting like anchors trying to drag us to the bottom<br />

of the hill by the fastest route possible. There was a real<br />

sense of relief when we reached the friendly fishermen and<br />

warm fire of Top Dingle Hut. The crux of the trip was now<br />

in front of us; how good had our weather forecasting been,<br />

and was there the right amount of water in the river for our<br />

kayaks?<br />

Previous Page: Cam Kerr high above the Dingle Burn, earning his paddle strokes - Image by Nick Pascoe<br />

Right: Shannon Mast in the upper reaches of the North Branch Motatapu River - Image by Max Rayner<br />

Following Page: Cam paddling past a massive landslide in the lower Dingle Burn - Image by Nick Pascoe<br />

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The river was banks full but still running clear and blue, and so we<br />

pushed off into the flow to see what was downstream. We quickly<br />

found ourselves in a grassy hydroslide, watching the mountains<br />

recede behind us. The paddling was amazing; scenic, and continuous<br />

whitewater with a couple of mini gorges to add a little spice. Far earlier<br />

than we expected we found ourselves beaching the kayaks and<br />

tramping up to Cotters Hut. The cosy hut was to be our home for the<br />

night, and we settled down for dinner and desert while watching the<br />

deer emerge onto the flats.<br />

The next 6km of river entered a gorge, and we were excited to see<br />

what was to come. We quickly had big smiles on our faces, it was<br />

fun non-stop rapids, underneath a spectacular beech forest tunnel. A<br />

few fallen trees in the river kept us on our toes, but we made steady<br />

progress and emerged from the beech forest into the home stretch<br />

towards Lake Hawea. Lunchtime saw us at Dingleburn Station, feeling<br />

thoroughly content with the trip.<br />

With New Zealand’s borders closed our eyes have been forced to look<br />

inwards, and it’s apparent once again that there is plenty of adventure<br />

right here close to home. We’re blessed with an abundance of<br />

wilderness, suiting exploration by all manner of people and methods.<br />

The takeaway from our spring first descents, and a silver lining of the<br />

last twelve months of upheaval, was a renewed appreciation of the<br />

people and places that we have here in our home.<br />

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TO THE ISLAND<br />

By Lynne and Steve Dickinson<br />

“The world is beyond us,<br />

It's too enormous<br />

But oh, the island is just right,<br />

It's the perfect size”<br />

Day one: Weather with You:<br />

“Everywhere ya go, always take the weather with you”<br />

When I noticed Crowded House’s “To the Island Tour”<br />

were performing at Church Road in Napier at the same<br />

time that THL Holdings were offering specials on their<br />

campervans, it was like a ‘perfect storm’ for a road trip.<br />

It was the end of March and the day we picked up our<br />

camper the sun was shining and the temperature gauge<br />

read 25 degrees and the forecast for the week was<br />

nothing but sun. With recent mountain bike purchases<br />

itching to clock up some miles we booked a camper<br />

with bike racks and off we went. Often one of the issues<br />

hiring a campervan for a short trip, is the hassle of filling<br />

in the paperwork, picking up the van, however, this was<br />

far from our experience; when we picked up our Maui<br />

camper, it was slick in and out and on the road.<br />

Little Waipa Domain on the banks of the Waikato River,<br />

our first stop, is not far from Lake Karapiro. This free<br />

camping spot had plenty of space, and to our surprise<br />

plenty of lake edge parking. We backed up to the river's<br />

edge, unhooked our bikes, locked the doors and headed<br />

off on the Waikato River Bike Trail. One of the joys of<br />

having a campervan is that you are right near where<br />

you want to be, in an amazing setting and it’s super<br />

convenient.<br />

The Waikato River Trail officially begins at the<br />

Pokaiwhenua Stream, just off the State Highway 1 on<br />

Horahora Road. I had unwittingly stumbled on the trail<br />

during the Spring Challenge <strong>Adventure</strong> Race at the end<br />

of 2020 and was keen to revisit it again. The trail covers<br />

over 100km and takes in 5 lakes and 4 hydro dams, but<br />

the trail is accessible from many locations along the way<br />

so you can bike as much or as little as you like.<br />

We started at the Little Waipa Reserve, an undulating<br />

section that follows a distinct path alongside the Waikato<br />

River. It is incredibly picturesque and it meanders across<br />

a well maintained gravel track before hitting the 500m<br />

continuous boardwalk over the Huihuitaka Wetland.<br />

According to the map and web research, the 6.2km ride<br />

is graded intermediate, however I would have graded it<br />

a little less.<br />

One of the issues with spending the afternoon biking is<br />

the need to feel clean at the end of the day. Although<br />

our camper was completely self-contained, we were<br />

surprised to find that the Little Waipa Domain offered<br />

toilets and not just showers but hot showers! This is not<br />

how remembered freedom camping in NZ. Impressed.<br />

Day Two: Now we're getting Somewhere<br />

“Lay me out with your heart<br />

Now we're getting somewhere<br />

Push me back to the start<br />

Now we're getting somewhere”<br />

One of the keys to an interesting road trip is to stay off<br />

the main roads. So although we were heading towards<br />

Taupo, we stuck to the backroads via Whakamaru Dam.<br />

It was here that we picked up the Waikato Bike Trail<br />

again. This section of the track goes from Whakamaru<br />

Dam to Atiamuri, a distance of 24 km, graded<br />

intermediate. On the entrance to the trial is a number for<br />

a shuttle service so if you don’t want to do the return trip<br />

you can organise to be picked up. We decided to bike for<br />

a while and then simply turn round.<br />

The start of the trail had no elevation but wound<br />

backwards and forwards through the trees along the<br />

river edge with large rock faces and pastoral lands<br />

creating an impressive backdrop. A couple of km along<br />

we reached the Lake Whakamaru Reserve, another<br />

fantastic free facility right on the river's edge.<br />

From here the trail became more technical as the path<br />

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narrowed and the turns became tighter. Graded an<br />

intermediate (grade 3) due to the fact that there were<br />

drop offs on the river's edge, however it was not too<br />

challenging, just super fun. Make sure you follow the<br />

blue markers and the orange arrows as there are few<br />

places where the trail divides.<br />

After a few more km the trail ran alongside Highway<br />

30, linking Whakamaru Dam to State Highway 1 at<br />

Atiamuri, and ran alongside this for a km or so before<br />

darting back into the trees alongside the river. This part<br />

of the trail allowed you to see the river in the distance.<br />

There is something engaging riding alongside the<br />

banks of a river as auspicious as the Waikato. At this<br />

part, where it widens out more, you can appreciate its<br />

significance in New Zealand’s history.<br />

We continued along for another hour or so before<br />

deciding to turn round and head back to our car for the<br />

drive into Taupo. We stayed on the backroads enjoying<br />

the scenery and avoiding the major roadworks that<br />

seem to be plaguing every major road in NZ at the<br />

moment.<br />

Unfortunately there is only one way to Napier, so we<br />

headed across State Highway 5 for an hour or so<br />

before turning off towards Glenfalls DOC camp, the<br />

takeout point for the first adventure race I had ever<br />

done over 13 years previously. We backed our camper<br />

right up to the river and watched the sun set behind the<br />

alluvial landscape overlooking the Mohaka River.<br />

Day Three: Four Seasons in One Day:<br />

“Even when you're feeling warm<br />

The temperature could drop away<br />

Like four seasons in one day”<br />

The night had been clear but cold and when we woke<br />

up it was hard to see more than a few feet in front of us<br />

due to the thick mist that had settled over the Mohaka<br />

River, and the temperature had dropped to a chill 5<br />

degrees. So we packed up camp and headed into<br />

Napier for a more cruisy day of bike riding around the<br />

vineyards. By the time we reached Napier the sun was<br />

shining and we were back in singlets and shorts.<br />

We had been told about Ash Ridge Winery in Roy’s Hill<br />

as this was the place where “On yer Bike” was located.<br />

Knowing little about this part of Napier we decided<br />

to check them out and get a lay of the land. On Yer<br />

Bike offers bike hire and exclusive access through<br />

the surrounding vineyards, so if you don’t have your<br />

own bike this is the place to start your travels, and Ash<br />

Ridge Winery was the perfect spot to begin our wine<br />

tasting experience. Our hostess, Denise, explained<br />

the wines and the uniqueness of the more boutique<br />

wineries, and provided us with excellent tips about how<br />

to plan our day.<br />

You would think that biking between vineyards could<br />

be a bit of a hazard, but the thing is that it actually<br />

slows down the drinking process. We, however, chose<br />

to drive to Trinity Hill Winery and then to the last<br />

vineyard (in this case Abbey Winery and Brewery),<br />

and explore on bike from there. Unfortunately this<br />

meant that we spent more time imbibing that we did<br />

cycling. All I can say is that we were thankful that the<br />

campervan was close by and we could “sleep” the wine<br />

off before having to drive anywhere.<br />

Hawkes Bay has some clearly marked Freedom<br />

Camping areas in some top waterfront locations.<br />

We had already checked out Perfume Point which<br />

overlooks the harbour entrance with a surf break right<br />

Previous Page: Biking along the Waikato River Trail<br />

Above: Enjoying a beer after biking, at Little Waipa Reserve<br />

Clockwise from top left: The Waikato River Trail just past Whakamaru Dam / Four seasons in one day, mist surrounds our<br />

camper at Glenfalls DOC site / Delicious breakfast / Relaxing alongside the Mohaka River<br />

38//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong>


in front so we headed there for the night. However<br />

at 2am the music started. Peeking from behind our<br />

curtains we witnessed a rather dishevelled looking<br />

local, dropping pots and pans from the back of his<br />

car while he was attempting to locate his fishing gear!<br />

With AC/DC blaring from his car speakers full bore,<br />

sleep was impossible. So we decided to move… bad<br />

decision… Keeping with the music theme of this story,<br />

we should have known it was better to “love the one<br />

you’re with”.<br />

Another Freedom Camping location on the app<br />

provided by our Maui Camper hire company, was<br />

the Pump Track but this was full with campers so we<br />

moved further south to the next spot. We should have<br />

known something was up when we pulled in and the<br />

parking area was full of cars, all of which had steaming<br />

windows, meaning there were people inside.<br />

Unwilling to wake anyone up with the noise of our<br />

camper backing out we pulled in to the last remaining<br />

gap and settled down for some much needed sleep,<br />

by now it was close to 3am. Within half an hour two<br />

more cars arrived, parking directly behind us, blocking<br />

us in and the occupants got out to loudly continue their<br />

conversations right outside our window. At this point<br />

we felt it was evident we had taken some “residents”<br />

parking space and their conversation was meant to<br />

intimidate us. They achieved their goal and we offered<br />

to get on our way. By way of apology, one of the late<br />

arrivals yelled repeatedly, “my wife and baby are<br />

sleeping in that car.” At first we just felt relieved to have<br />

got away and then retrospectively it hit us how sad it<br />

was that a mother and baby were sleeping in their car,<br />

and they were obviously not the only ones.<br />

Day Four: Distant Sun<br />

“Still so young to travel so far<br />

Old enough to know who you are<br />

Wise enough to carry the scars<br />

Without any blame, there's no one to blame”<br />

Napier and surrounds is all about biking and walking,<br />

there are trails everywhere you look. Slightly jaded from<br />

our previous night we decided to explore some of the<br />

trails close to where the concert was being held later<br />

in the day at Church Road. On the advice of Denise<br />

from Ash Winery, we parked the camper behind the EIT<br />

(technical Institute in Taradale) and hooked onto the<br />

river trail towards Puketapu.<br />

The gentle meandering path alongside the river<br />

provided a perfect antidote to a long eventful night. You<br />

can ride the trail on one side of the river and cross the<br />

bridge at Puketapu and return on the other. The trail<br />

runs alongside vineyards, orchards and the river bank<br />

and we were amazed at the number of people out using<br />

the trail. We reached the bridge and on the other side is<br />

the cute local pub, The Puketapu, the perfect place for<br />

a mid-ride beer, wine or brunch…<br />

With the concert not starting till later in the evening,<br />

there are plenty of options for passing away a few hours<br />

so we headed up to Mission Estate winery for a lazy<br />

lunch in the garden. Then we parked the campervan as<br />

close as we could get to the event at Church Road, and<br />

were able to relax until the event started and we were<br />

only a few minute’s walk away.<br />

I have always felt a very strong connection with music,<br />

the fact that it can transport you back to a time and<br />

place in an instant. So when Crowded House opened<br />

up with “Distant Sun”, I was immediately taken back<br />

over 20 years ago to Waiheke Island, when Crowded<br />

House was a constant on our CD player. For the next<br />

couple of hours we were treated to a nostalgic trip down<br />

memory lane and were impressed with everything about<br />

the show, from their musicianship, stage presence and<br />

the intimate atmosphere.<br />

As the concert came to an end it signalled the final day<br />

of our roady and knew it was time to head back towards<br />

home. With the adrenalin still pumping (and a fair few<br />

miles to cover) we hit the road and made it as far as<br />

Taupo before settling in for the night at Reids Farm<br />

Freedom camping spot on the banks of the Waikato<br />

River (another impressive free camping spot).<br />

Day Five: Don’t Dream it’s Over<br />

“Hey now, hey now, don’t dream it’s over.”<br />

The following morning the rain arrived, almost reflecting<br />

our mood of sorrow that our road trip was coming to an<br />

end. As we drove the final miles towards Auckland you<br />

could feel the pressure of the city start to weigh down<br />

on you as the trees and fields were replaced by traffic<br />

and buildings. As we neared the drop off area at the<br />

airport it was with a little sadness that this roady was<br />

over. But the joy of hiring a campervan is that all we had<br />

to do was drive up, smile, hand over the keys, and walk<br />

away.<br />

So instead of lamenting that the trip was over, we<br />

simply got back home, picked up the phone and booked<br />

another trip. And as the song “To the Island” goes, “the<br />

world is beyond us, it’s too enormous, but oh, the island<br />

is just right, it’s the perfect size.” Time to go explore!<br />

“Dont' dream it's over”<br />

For excellent campervan hire contact www.maui-rentals.com/nz<br />

Clockwise from top left: The Waikato River Trail / On the Tutukairi River trail in Napier / Crowded House thanking the<br />

crowd (compliments of Crowded House) / The Puketapu<br />

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RIDER ON THE STORM<br />

Angelo is a 21-year-old storm chaser from the port<br />

city of Salerno, in the south of Italy. Two years ago<br />

he took up storm chasing, a hobby that has led<br />

him to photographing extreme weather around his<br />

tempestuous home region of Campania and beyond.<br />

This is the story of how, and why, he does it…<br />

----<br />

As I child, I was terrified of storms. Especially those that<br />

occurred in the summer, when a strong contrast between hot<br />

and cold air made them particularly violent. I remember one<br />

occasion in August, when I had just turned six years old. I<br />

was out shopping with my parents just a few kilometres west<br />

of Salerno when suddenly there was a loud noise coming<br />

from the direction of the Apennine Mountains.<br />

A huge cumulonimbus cloud split the sky in half, with hot and<br />

sunny weather on one side, and a very strong thunderstorm<br />

on the other. As the storm got closer, lightning fell a few<br />

hundred metres from us, and hail whitened the streets in<br />

minutes. This was a totally new experience for me, and I ran<br />

ANGELO CONCILIO<br />

into my father’s arms in terror. It’s a memory that remains<br />

with me to this day. I was afraid. But I was also in awe.<br />

Like the pull of a gripping horror movie, my fear morphed<br />

into fascination as I grew older. When a thunderstorm<br />

broke out at night, I would rush to my window to witness the<br />

night’s sky put on a brilliant show. As a young boy without a<br />

computer, I wasn’t able to access meteorological forecasts<br />

or detailed weather maps. But if I heard thunder, or sensed<br />

the sky was threatening, I would wait giddily in anticipation,<br />

ready with my parents’ camera in the hope of capturing a<br />

fleeting moment forever.<br />

This led to my interest in photography, focusing mainly<br />

on the beautiful landscapes that form my home region of<br />

Campania. Here in Salerno, we are fortunate to have the<br />

Amalfi Coast to the west, and Cilento National Park to the<br />

south. Our coastline overlooks the southern Tyrrhenian Sea,<br />

between the Gulf of Salerno and the Gulf of Policastro. It is<br />

an area of natural beauty, and a perfect canvas on which<br />

storms can paint their beguiling magic. Before long, my<br />

landscape photography focused almost exclusively on the<br />

niche that was getting the most attention and bringing me<br />

the most joy: storms. What once frightened me now gave me<br />

a strong adrenaline rush, especially the first time lightning<br />

struck just a few metres away and resulted in a spectacular<br />

photo. From that moment on, I realised that I absolutely had<br />

to chase storms in southern Italy. It became almost like my<br />

drug.<br />

The storm season in southern Italy lasts almost all year, but<br />

the best time to hunt is from March to November, when the<br />

contrasts between cold and warm air are at their highest. At<br />

the end of winter, with the lengthening of the days and the<br />

longer daylight hours, the ground heats up more than in the<br />

colder months. Consequently there is more energy in play.<br />

Living a few kilometres from the southern Apennines,<br />

thermo-convective thunderstorms often occur during the<br />

afternoon. They are characterised by the development of<br />

huge cumulonimbus ‘anvil’ clouds that develop up to the<br />

highest limits of the tropopause: the boundary in the Earth's<br />

atmosphere between the troposphere and the stratosphere.<br />

At the height of the thunderstorm season, it’s possible to<br />

see storm cells at sea, often associated with the arrival of<br />

a cold front that accompanies them. These are viewed as<br />

being more dangerous, since the warm sea provides more<br />

energy than the spring or winter months. Most of the time<br />

they develop at night, when it is easier for us storm chasers<br />

to photograph lightning associated with waterspouts or<br />

tornadoes.<br />

For me, the best conditions in which to shoot storms<br />

are when there are isolated thunderstorms expected.<br />

This ensures the rest of the sky is clear and clean,<br />

especially during the darkness of night when you can<br />

admire the lightning bolts flashing out from the storm.<br />

Known as ''positive lightning’’, it is perhaps the most<br />

fascinating electrical manifestation that can develop from<br />

thunderstorms. These are extremely powerful discharges<br />

that are among the longest lightning that can be observed<br />

during a thunderstorm. Arising from young cumulonimbus<br />

clouds, they have the peculiarity of appearing to fall from a<br />

great distance from the cloud that generated them.<br />

After consulting the weather bulletins and the medium and<br />

long-term forecasts, my storm chasing friends and I decide<br />

where to position ourselves the day before. Then three or<br />

four hours before the storm is due to arrive, we’ll jump in my<br />

Jeep Renegade and head to our chosen spot. My standard<br />

equipment includes my Canon EOS 200D camera, my<br />

various lenses (70-300mm, 50mm art, and a 14mm), and<br />

– key to a good shot - my fixed camera tripod. Given the<br />

chase lasts most of the day, snacks are a must.<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 43


People often ask me about the dangers of storm chasing.<br />

Put it this way: my parents are not too keen with my chosen<br />

activity. Before Covid, my day job was as a wedding<br />

photographer. They certainly preferred me photographing<br />

newlyweds, because it is of course a lot less risky. But it’s<br />

also a lot less exciting!<br />

The truth is that storm chasing is quite dangerous,<br />

especially to those who set out to chase storms without<br />

acknowledging the risks, or respecting nature, or doing<br />

their research. Most accidents caused by lightning occur<br />

outdoors. You are most at risk in the mountains, but all<br />

large and exposed places such as a lawn or a soccer field<br />

can be a dangerous place to be during a storm. Especially<br />

anywhere in the presence of water, such as the sea,<br />

beaches, piers, docks or outdoor pools.<br />

But it is not only lightning that is dangerous. Among the<br />

most dramatic and worrying effects of climate change is<br />

the increasing extremes of weather phenomena, destined<br />

to become increasingly violent as temperatures rise. A<br />

frightening change that is already underway has seen<br />

hurricanes becoming more powerful and destructive.<br />

Near the coasts, if you are near large plains, you can also<br />

experience waterspouts or tornadoes that can be very<br />

dangerous to human life. I once witnessed this danger<br />

myself, and I’m thankful that I live to tell the tale.<br />

It was the evening of October 3rd, 2019. Some weather<br />

models had offered a small chance of thunderstorms, and<br />

right on the Gulf of Salerno there formed a self-healing<br />

thunderstorm. This is a phenomenon that feeds itself and<br />

regenerates due to the contrast between the warm and<br />

humid low altitude air and the cool and drier high altitude<br />

air. On this occasion, it brought gusts of over 100km/h and<br />

a flurry of hail, hitting first the city centre, then the coastal<br />

area.<br />

In a hurry to capture it, me and a friend positioned ourselves<br />

a few metres from the beach to shoot some lightning.<br />

And while the picture that came out is amazing, I was<br />

almost killed as two bolts struck just a few hundred metres<br />

from our beach. It was a moment of pure terror, since we<br />

were positioned just steps from sea level! It was an epic<br />

experience, but really scary. Would I do it again? I would.<br />

But with a few more precautions this time.<br />

On another occasion in 2020, I was on the beach at Cilento<br />

National Park with friends who were surfing in the sea. A<br />

strong Atlantic disturbance had scourged southern Italy,<br />

bringing thunderstorms that resulted in huge waves in the<br />

Tyrrhenian Sea. After a few hours, a strong storm formed<br />

over the Gulf of Salerno, slowly approaching us. All of a<br />

sudden, electrical discharges came down a few hundred<br />

metres from the surfers! I had to call my friends out of the<br />

water because of the very dangerous situation. It was a<br />

captivating and epic thrill. My photos of that day resembled<br />

the scenes of foreboding and doom from Netflix’s Stranger<br />

Things.<br />

Recently I started working for Extreme Weather Club, which<br />

works to promote and publish the work of storm chasers all<br />

over Europe. But one day soon I aim to expand my storm<br />

chasing journey beyond Italy’s horizons. I would love to go<br />

to Venezuela where electrical storms are guaranteed almost<br />

all year round on the Catatumbo River and Lake Maracaibo.<br />

It's one of the most fascinating places on the planet for<br />

those drawn to extreme weather.<br />

Another dream trip would be the USA, where it’s possible<br />

to see and photograph supercells, tornadoes and lightning<br />

all at the same time. My hope is to one day join a team of<br />

storm chasers in the USA and around the world, working<br />

with The Weather Channel or National Geographic. Maybe<br />

that will be the day that my parents finally accept my chosen<br />

career.<br />

To read more about Angelo’s storm chasing experiences in southern Italy, head to DiscoverInteresting.com<br />

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44//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong>


Physiology in a Nutshell<br />

how to train your emotions and mind<br />

There are times when conditions,<br />

fitness and skills are perfectly<br />

matched, yet the mission fails.<br />

Here, the adventurer must<br />

understand and master the<br />

domain of emotion and mind.<br />

Scenario 1: Fear and the flight<br />

reaction<br />

Imagine you are well on your<br />

way to a summit through a<br />

difficult stretch of rock. The<br />

climber above knocks a flurry of<br />

rocks over you which fly past you<br />

into the abyss below. Your body<br />

tenses, eyes widen, lips pull back<br />

and you become stiff. A wave<br />

of fear engulfs your body. All<br />

you can think about is the awful<br />

consequences of an imminent<br />

error and a fall (worry). You start<br />

to tremble, hesitate and cannot<br />

move forward. Every move<br />

presents ghastly consequences.<br />

You are having a flight reaction.<br />

Scenario 2: Anger and the fight<br />

reaction<br />

A client you are guiding fails<br />

to follow instructions putting<br />

the group and mission at risk.<br />

Your eyebrows furrow down<br />

and in, the heat of anger<br />

By Dr Sven Hansen, MBChB, MBA. Founder of Resilience Institute<br />

Dr Sven Hansen is an amateur climbing and lifelong outdoor adventurer. With a background in special forces and sports<br />

medicine, he works with executives, professionals and athletes to build the resilience needed to achieve excellence.<br />

https://resiliencei.com/<br />

rises to your chest, fists and<br />

face. Your mind says it is all<br />

their fault (rumination). You<br />

shout and dress the client<br />

down aggressively. The group<br />

is shocked, and the client<br />

dismayed. The rest of the trip is<br />

awkward. Their reviews damage<br />

your reputation. You just had a<br />

fight reaction.<br />

Scenario 3: Overwhelm and the<br />

freeze reaction<br />

The waves are huge on an ocean<br />

surf ski race. You have spent<br />

months training and thousands<br />

of dollars preparing. As you<br />

begin to ride the rising swells,<br />

uncertainty rises. Are you out of<br />

your depth (doubt)? A massive,<br />

turbulent wave rises behind<br />

you. Instead of paddling hard,<br />

you brace and panic. You fall off<br />

your ski. Pounded by wave after<br />

wave, your mind becomes numb.<br />

You cannot remount, lose your<br />

boat and paddle, and have to be<br />

rescued. You just had a freeze<br />

reaction.<br />

Those who have pushed the<br />

limits will recognise these<br />

reactions in ourselves, our<br />

colleagues and our clients. While<br />

we all study conditions, work<br />

on our fitness and sharpen our<br />

skills, often it is these reactive<br />

emotional and mental states<br />

that ruin a mission. What if we<br />

were to master and train these<br />

destructive reactions?<br />

We frequently hear phrases<br />

such as: “Keep emotion out of<br />

it.” Better advice is to understand<br />

and master emotion and the<br />

associated mental states.<br />

Best advice is to understand<br />

and master emotion and the<br />

associated mental states.<br />

Recent work in neurobiology helps<br />

us understand how we either react or<br />

respond to acute adversity. We can<br />

process emotion in two ways. Option<br />

one, under pressure is to default to<br />

unconscious reptilian reactions – flight,<br />

fight and freeze. The unseen emotion<br />

overwhelms the mind and drives<br />

automatic reactions. In combat, we call it<br />

‘condition black’.<br />

These reactions are driven by two almond<br />

shaped bodies called the amygdala in the<br />

temporal lobes – just inside the skull and<br />

adjacent to the earlobes. Unconscious<br />

emotional systems have been available<br />

since the time of reptiles. In the absence<br />

of an alternative response, these<br />

reactions have been selected and<br />

retained by evolution in our brains today.<br />

In flight, fear activates the sympathetic<br />

system pumping out adrenaline (body<br />

tension) and nor-adrenaline (mental<br />

tension). With blood pumping fast and<br />

under pressure to lower limbs, our legs<br />

become stiff and tremulous. There is an<br />

overwhelming drive to escape, rather<br />

than engage, the situation. The mind<br />

spins in worry or panic.<br />

In fight, anger activates the sympathetic<br />

system to drive blood under pressure<br />

to the chest, fists and jaw (again<br />

sympathetic). The overwhelming drive<br />

is to attack, hit, bite or shout. The mind<br />

spins in blame and rage at the person.<br />

In freeze, we activate the lower and older<br />

part of the vagus nerve. This tenth<br />

cranial nerve runs from the brain to<br />

pelvis – the longest pair of nerves in<br />

the nervous system. When activated,<br />

we can feint, void bowels or bladder,<br />

collapse, burst into tears, or collapse<br />

into submission.<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong>rs seek to match skills<br />

to significant challenge – what we<br />

describe as the flow state. Flight, fight<br />

and freeze reactions will unravel your<br />

mission. Embarrassment, regret and<br />

shame linger.<br />

Experts have laid out a number of<br />

options to understand and master<br />

these reactions. When we do, periods<br />

of flow in moments of extreme<br />

challenge drive inspired and superskilful<br />

action. The result is enhanced<br />

performance .<br />

The physiology of flow is now well<br />

studied . You will recognise it when<br />

your mind becomes quiet – often to<br />

the point that memory is lost. Timekeeping<br />

stops – and time can stretch<br />

or compress. The experience has a<br />

feeling of grace. Afterwards it feels<br />

absolutely great – thanks to the flood<br />

of neurochemicals such as dopamine,<br />

endorphins and anandamide.<br />

Flow is an altered state of brain waves<br />

(theta and gamma), neurochemicals,<br />

sensory awareness, complete<br />

absorption, focus, and fluid responses<br />

to dynamic situations. It is so enjoyable<br />

to the adventurer, that we keep going<br />

back for more.<br />

The requirement is a well-trained<br />

Vagus Nerve. The new and upper parts<br />

of the Vagus nerve drive the calm,<br />

control and connect response. When<br />

we exhale, relax our face, calm our<br />

emotions and thoughts, and focus fully<br />

on the moment at hand, the new (or<br />

ventral) vagus fires. We experience<br />

calming, slowing, and focusing. Trust<br />

increases establishing the basis for<br />

playfulness, connection and superior<br />

performance.<br />

Flow is an altered state of brain waves (theta and gamma),<br />

neurochemicals, sensory awareness, complete absorption, focus,<br />

and fluid responses to dynamic situations. It is so enjoyable to the<br />

adventurer, that we keep going back for more.<br />

46//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong>


Acrophobia – a crippling fear of height<br />

Perhaps one third of people suffer a fear<br />

of heights. The reaction is flight. It ranges<br />

from a mild anxiety near a 16th floor<br />

window to being crippled with nausea,<br />

shaking, clinging and collapsing. For an<br />

adventurer this is life limiting. The options<br />

to solve this are clearly agreed:<br />

1. Acknowledge and engage: the<br />

experience is not fun, so your being<br />

avoids the situation. Accept it full and<br />

resolve to engage in re-training your flight<br />

reaction to a skilfully managed response.<br />

2. Map your reactions precisely; physical,<br />

emotional, mental: write down each<br />

experience you have had. Describe every<br />

part of it until it is a clear object without<br />

any emotional turmoil. Tell the story and<br />

use humour to accept the inappropriate<br />

reaction. Get comfortable with the<br />

discomfort. Remain resolved to succeed.<br />

3. Prepare and visualise: while this is<br />

normally done before a situation you<br />

can do it afterwards. Simply create the<br />

experience from memory or in your<br />

imagination. Work from the widest<br />

context and move inwards to seeing<br />

yourself and the objects around you.<br />

Visualise clearly the height and the risk.<br />

Notice the feelings and thoughts. Name<br />

the discomfort of fear, exhale, remember<br />

this is just your imagination and create<br />

the next action you could take. See<br />

this being successful. Visualise the<br />

successful mastery of the situation, step<br />

by step. Continually name the feelings,<br />

tame them and reframe them into action.<br />

The more realistic your visualisation, the<br />

greater success you will have.<br />

4. Develop a strong relaxation<br />

response: this requires daily practice of<br />

at least 8 minutes per day. Remember<br />

that calm underpins curiosity and<br />

courage. Calm is the antidote to<br />

fear. Train your vagal nerve daily.<br />

You can use heart rate variability<br />

monitoring (www.heartmath.com) or<br />

virtual reality to add precision (www.<br />

sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/<br />

S1877050917321129 )<br />

5. Accept, exhale and execute: starting<br />

with smaller challenges, now you must<br />

expose yourself to triggers. Every time,<br />

you feel the smallest reaction execute<br />

your trained response. Accept and<br />

name it. Exhale and tame it. Execute<br />

the next step with deliberate courage<br />

(reframe). If the reaction becomes<br />

strong, be willing to take a moment to<br />

sink into a relaxation practice. Focus on<br />

one step at a time.<br />

6. Build your stories of success: every<br />

time you succeed, go to your journal<br />

and unpack it. If you prefer, tell the<br />

story. Video analysis can be helpful. Be<br />

specific in laying down a clear memory<br />

of being able to take a step through<br />

your fear. You want to lay down a bed<br />

of memories that will support you the<br />

next time you stretch your longing for<br />

adventure.<br />

The truth that many authors fail to<br />

share, is that it takes thousands of<br />

hours of focused, deliberate practice<br />

with clear goals, and quick feedback<br />

(coaching) . To establish our skills, we<br />

need safety. However, to truly master<br />

flow, we must increase the challenge<br />

and risk to the point that we flirt with<br />

an amygdala hijack – flight, fight, and<br />

freeze.<br />

Here, we are working with the Vagus<br />

Nerve. We must seek to be fully alert to<br />

the emotional signals of fear, anger and<br />

overwhelm. Name the emotion, tame<br />

the emotion and reframe it for action.<br />

For example, when fear presents, feel<br />

it fully and describe it, use a calming<br />

practice to tame it, and reframe it with<br />

curiosity and focus on the challenge at<br />

hand.<br />

It is this edge between unconscious<br />

reaction (amygdala hijack) and<br />

deliberate, trained response under<br />

threat (flow) that separates the great<br />

and the average. A trained Vagus nerve<br />

is the physiological foundation.<br />

One third of people suffer a fear of heights. The reaction is flight. It<br />

ranges from a mild anxiety near a 16th floor window to being crippled<br />

with nausea, shaking, clinging and collapsing. For an adventurer this<br />

is life limiting.<br />

Six Practices for Flow in Extreme<br />

Challenge<br />

1. Take care of your recovery and<br />

preparation<br />

If you seek to master this edge of<br />

performance, you have to secure<br />

your sleep, skilled recovery and deep<br />

relaxation. These three components<br />

must be built into your life so that you<br />

can activate the new Vagus nerve. Get<br />

at least seven hours of sleep at the right<br />

time for your clock and with enough<br />

deep and REM cycles. Practice slow,<br />

diaphragmatic breathing every day.<br />

Meditate if you can or explore the Wim<br />

Hoff Method if you want to be a little<br />

edgy.<br />

2. Map the process of your own<br />

personal reactions<br />

This is the awkward work many of us<br />

avoid. The critical first step to mastery,<br />

is to understand when and how your<br />

ancient biology undermines your goals.<br />

Look for times that you have avoided<br />

conflict (flight), had angry outbursts<br />

(fight), or shrunk away (freeze) in the<br />

face of challenge. Ask those close to you<br />

when they notice these reactions. Work<br />

through the situation and the experience<br />

until you can see it clearly. Define clearly<br />

how it blocked your intention. What were<br />

the consequence you want to avoid next<br />

time?<br />

3. Define clearly the response you are<br />

seeking<br />

Write down how it might have worked<br />

out if you had mastered the reaction<br />

and responded with calm, focused skill.<br />

Rebuild the process that would have<br />

to unfold to succeed. For example: I<br />

feel my anger. Breathe out and pause.<br />

Take a moment to consider the other<br />

person’s experience. Resolve to engage<br />

with calm and respectful resolve to<br />

communicate the imperative for change.<br />

Describe how it would feel to have this<br />

powerful conversation. How would it<br />

improve the outcome for others?<br />

4. Master your own tactical calm<br />

practices<br />

We are often asked to rise to the<br />

challenge. Preferably, relax, exhale<br />

and sink to the level of your training (an<br />

ancient Greek phrase adopted by Navy<br />

Seals). Rapid (or tactical) calming is the<br />

doorway to flow. Experiment with the<br />

best practice to achieve rapid calm. For<br />

me, it is to breathe out slowly through<br />

my nose and bring my full focus into<br />

the moment. Practice it every time you<br />

stretch for a challenge. Lock the routine<br />

down so it becomes automatic. Once<br />

you do your Vagus nerve is trained and<br />

fit for purpose.<br />

5. Seek presence and connection to<br />

the moment<br />

A key element of flow is to be 100%<br />

present and connected to the challenge.<br />

This means suspending thinking about<br />

past or future and being fully immersed<br />

in the moment. It is called transient<br />

hypofrontality meaning the prefrontal<br />

‘thinking cortex’ is silent. While we must<br />

be aware of the emotion, we resist the<br />

temptation to flight (and worry) or fight<br />

(rumination on past).<br />

6. Train on challenges just above<br />

your skill zone<br />

While we must maintain our basic<br />

fitness and skills in safe and secure<br />

environments, the adventurer must<br />

practice at the edge of discomfort. Kotler<br />

suggests reaching for challenges 4%<br />

above your skills. This puts you in a<br />

state where arousal is activated enough<br />

but not too much. In this arousal we<br />

practice tactical calm and mastery of the<br />

skills we seek.<br />

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GO WITH THE FLOW<br />

By Derek Cheng<br />

Drive the ice tool into the vertical ice. Doesn’t stick well? Swing<br />

again, hitting the same mark. Close the eyes as it strikes<br />

to protect from ice blowback. Bring the feet up and kick the<br />

crampons in.<br />

Ice climbing engages every pore, every spectrum of every<br />

sense. The sound the pick makes as it strikes the ice. The<br />

scent of the sheer chill of the winter. The feel of the handle as<br />

you pull up on it, lock off, and fiddle in an ice screw.<br />

It's a pursuit that immerses you so deeply that you forget<br />

everything else. Only the singularity of the experience exists.<br />

Time flutters by as if irrelevant.<br />

There are several activities that can place you in a flow state<br />

- mountain biking, skiing, surfing, trail-running. I have pursued<br />

climbing in all its forms across the globe because, for me, it<br />

delivers enriching experiences and intense doses of euphoria<br />

more than anything else.<br />

What is it that makes climbing such a potent high, compelling<br />

some of us to give up financial and geographical stability and<br />

pursue an activity that yields nothing tangible?<br />

I was in my 20s when I first flew to South America on a oneway<br />

ticket to Patagonian granite, snowy Andean peaks, and<br />

Cuban limestone. It was the first time I was exposed to dirtbag<br />

life and the freedom of chasing rock and ice in wild, remote<br />

places. As soon as I came home, I started saving for the next<br />

fix, which I thought would be the last hurrah before the lust for<br />

dirtbaggery would fade, replaced by responsible hankerings<br />

for a family, puppies in sweaters, or a home with a white picket<br />

fence.But that never eventuated and I’m still chasing the high.<br />

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The onset of Covid-19 has simply seen such adventures<br />

become New Zealand-centric; I spent the last summer<br />

exploring the remote corners of the Darran mountains in<br />

Fiordland.<br />

Climbing has been shown to help depression, likened to<br />

meditation, and even compared to the kind of mind-blowing<br />

awe that accompanies profound shifts in neural networks.<br />

But any claims about what the brain does during a climb<br />

are yet to be rooted in any real science because, according<br />

to climber and neuroscientist Dr Ashlee Hendy, we lack the<br />

technology to scan the brain of someone as they climb.<br />

The anecdotal trail led me to psychologist Dr Mihaly<br />

Csikszentmihalyi and his seminal 1990 book Flow: The<br />

Psychology of Optimal Experience. Flow, he says, is the<br />

state of being so immersed in an activity that it makes time<br />

and the ego melt away. “Thoughts, intentions, feelings, and<br />

all the senses are focused on the same goal. Experience<br />

is in harmony,” Csikszentmihalyi writes. “We feel a sense<br />

of exhilaration, a deep sense of enjoyment that becomes a<br />

landmark in memory for what life should be like.”<br />

Csikszentmihalyi interviewed people from all walks of life,<br />

including athletes, artists, musicians and chess masters.<br />

Among the flow-junkies he quotes are climbers, one of<br />

whom says: “You look back on awe at the self, at what<br />

you’ve done. It just blows your mind. It leads to ecstasy,<br />

to self-fulfillment.” Says another: “It’s a Zen feeling, like<br />

meditation or concentration… It’s like an egoless thing, in<br />

a way. Somehow the right thing is done without you ever<br />

thinking about it or doing anything at all. . . It just happens.”<br />

And yet I vividly recall terrible climbing experiences when<br />

things haven’t clicked, or fear has crippled the experience.<br />

Flow, Csikszentmihalyi says, can happen when the<br />

perfect amount of challenge tests your skill set. If it’s too<br />

easy, you succumb to boredom. If it’s too much, you’re<br />

consumed with anxiety. But if the challenge stretches you<br />

to the limits of your ability, conditions are ripe for flow.<br />

Climbing also ticks the key boxes for Csikszentmihalyi’s<br />

flow triggers: intense focus on the present moment, clear<br />

goals, immediate feedback, high consequences, rich<br />

environments, and total, physical awareness.<br />

Csikszentmihalyi says a key ingredient is transient<br />

hypofrontality - a less active pre-frontal cortex, which is<br />

the heart of higher cognitive abilities. It collects data and<br />

assesses risk, conducts analysis and makes plans. This<br />

also makes it the home of self-criticism and self-doubt,<br />

which are impediments to flow.<br />

This idea is reinforced in journalist Steven Kotler’s<br />

book The Rise of Superman: Decoding the Science of<br />

Ultimate Human Performance, which collates more recent<br />

research. “Parts of it [the pre-frontal cortex] are temporarily<br />

deactivating,” says psychology professor Arne Dietrich in<br />

Kotler’s book. “It’s an efficiency exchange. We’re trading<br />

energy usually used for higher cognitive functions for<br />

heightened attention and awareness.”<br />

In the flow state, the intuitive parts of the brain take the<br />

wheel. Alpha waves (the brain’s basic resting state) and<br />

theta waves (also present in states of deep meditation, or<br />

just before falling asleep) are more active, instead of beta<br />

waves (associated with concentration, learning, but also<br />

fear and stress).<br />

Kotler proposes that flow has enabled giant leaps in<br />

performance in extreme sports through a relatively short<br />

period of time. His book looks at, among other things, the<br />

free-soloing feats of Alex Honnold and the speed-climbing<br />

exploits of Dean Potter, who talks about yielding to The<br />

Voice in his head that intuitively guides him. (The book<br />

preceded Potter’s tragic death in a wing-suiting accident.)<br />

“When I’m really in tune with it, really deep in the zone, I<br />

get to a place where I disappear completely … when time<br />

slows down, my senses are unbelievably heightened, and<br />

I feel that oneness,” Potter told Kotler. “And that’s why I<br />

climb. I crave these experiences.”<br />

Cameron Norsworthy, co-founder of The Flow Centre, says<br />

flow doesn’t have a monopoly on high performance. But he<br />

adds that it is rare to be flow-free and climb at the limit of<br />

your potential.<br />

He says climbing is especially flow-worthy because it<br />

demands total focus. “The constant struggle, mental<br />

and physical, draws us away from our normal waking<br />

consciousness. You can walk into a gym and be selfconscious,<br />

but halfway up the wall, reaching a difficult point<br />

when you reach the crux, all your self-consciousness can<br />

disappear because the task demands it.”<br />

Climbing, he adds, also pushes you to keep improving.<br />

“It keeps us wanting to do more so that we can feel flow<br />

again. And in order to experience it at an equal or greater<br />

intensity, we keep seeking more difficult routes to hit that<br />

sweet spot. It creates this growth principle that continuously<br />

pushes our abilities, keeping us hooked on that next climb.”<br />

Other conditions that can enhance flow include<br />

novelty, unpredictability, and complexity. Some risk -<br />

and associated fear - also helps, because it releases<br />

norepinephrine, which mobilises the brain and body for<br />

action. But too much, as any climber can attest, and the<br />

experience just crumbles into a stressful fight for survival,<br />

regardless of whether there is any real threat. I recall<br />

climbing a route on Mount Taranaki, after a year away from<br />

climbing, where topping out didn’t bring any satisfaction or<br />

joy - only profound relief.<br />

These flow conditions provide a key to climbing’s unique,<br />

multi-layered tremendousness. Concentrating on one<br />

discipline can bring great joy, but if bouldering or sportclimbing<br />

don’t get you high enough, there’s always tradclimbing<br />

and multi-pitching, aid-climbing and big-walling,<br />

alpine climbing, free-soloing, and questing up lines of<br />

frozen ice with sharp, metal points extending from your<br />

hands and toes. There are always new skills to master,<br />

new limits to push, different manifestations of fear to<br />

master. Even within each discipline lies an infinity of<br />

varying challenges—from slabs to overhangs to roofs to<br />

corners to cracks.<br />

Previous Page: Frazer Burley steadies himself on Shades of Beauty, a WI4 multi-pitch ice route in the Columbia Icefield Parkway, Canada.<br />

Right: Chris Davis climbing Burning Spear (22) on the epic rock tower known as The Moai, in Tasmania, Australia<br />

Following Page: Kiff Alcocer soloing the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire in the Bugaboos, Canada.<br />

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Another unique feature of climbing is that<br />

you don’t have to be the best of the best<br />

to unlock the climbing goodness. Success<br />

is best measured against what lies within.<br />

And although success on the hardest<br />

climbs are undoubtedly memorable, it’s<br />

overcoming a challenge - especially ones<br />

that seemed doubtful at the time - that<br />

really enhances the experience. One of my<br />

most vivid moments of climbing joy was<br />

on a route called Mari (17) at Arapiles in<br />

Australia, a grade that is easy for me now,<br />

but which lay at the edge of what seemed<br />

possible at the time. I battled through<br />

the dreaded pump at the crux, and then<br />

topped out from frigid shade into divine<br />

sunshine, triggering a potent rush that left<br />

me beaming for hours.<br />

Another was my first experience of<br />

climbing a new line on a virgin face. The<br />

third pitch of Ka-Kaa (21), in Morocco’s<br />

Anti-Atlas range, was full of thin,<br />

questionable gear and tenuous, technical<br />

moves. On the fifth pitch, a piece of rock<br />

exploded when I tested a piece of gear,<br />

but I managed to catch it in my hand and<br />

toss it harmlessly to the ground before<br />

gathering my composure, and then<br />

climbing through an intimidating roof.<br />

And every time I’ve ventured into the<br />

world of ice-climbing, the unique bold,<br />

cold, no-fall adrenaline and breathtaking<br />

landscapes almost always deliver a feeling<br />

of being reborn, redeemed, revived.<br />

Novelty. Unpredictability. Abundant<br />

complexity. Challenges at the edge of<br />

your ability. Success that can unravel a<br />

new perspective on what you’re capable<br />

of, and see continual improvement. Toss<br />

in landscapes that push the boundaries<br />

of sublime beauty, and sharing the<br />

experience with someone in your special<br />

tribe. Stir into a smooth, powerful potion.<br />

I’m now in my 40s, but I have as much<br />

climbing-wanderlust as when I was in my<br />

20s. Because in the end, to quote Jack<br />

Kerouac, “You won’t remember the time<br />

you spent working in the office or mowing<br />

your lawn.”<br />

Or, as civil rights leader Howard Thurman<br />

said: “Don’t ask what the world needs. Ask<br />

what makes you come alive, and go do<br />

it. Because what the world needs most is<br />

more people who have come alive.”<br />

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CHASING<br />

THE HUMAN<br />

CONNECTION<br />

IN ADVENTURE<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

By Chris Chase<br />

How the idea of photographing the human connection to nature helped keep me<br />

enter into a new industry.<br />

“One foot in front of the other.”<br />

That’s every hiker’s advice to their friend in the group who<br />

they knew was a questionable call on if they could handle<br />

the walk or not.<br />

If you don’t give that advice, the person struggling could lose<br />

hope and get down on themselves, but also the rest of the<br />

crew would recognise their fate. That for the rest of the trip,<br />

they will have to help this person get through the ordeal...<br />

most likely by sharing the weight from their bag and lightning<br />

their load...or have to call off the trip.<br />

Seven simple words can mean the difference between that<br />

feeling of awe atop the mountain or the miserable sensation<br />

of admitting defeat and turning around, never getting to see<br />

what you walked all the way there for.<br />

Seven simple words mean the difference between growth<br />

and stagnation, success and indignation, pride and shame.<br />

Seven simple words can get you through just about anything,<br />

and those are the words I repeated to myself throughout my<br />

journey from being a school teacher in New York City to an<br />

adventure photographer in New Zealand.<br />

__________________________________<br />

I started taking pictures of the outdoors in high school, when<br />

I would go on day walks with my friends and family back<br />

home in the suburbs outside of New York City. We would<br />

walk along local bike baths, streams and larger regional<br />

park trails wandering until we were bored and wanted to turn<br />

back. Sometimes that would be hours and would go into<br />

the dark, but we always enjoyed being in the moment and<br />

feeling uninhibited by schedules and expectations.<br />

When I started bringing my camera on walks, I would snap<br />

photos haphazardly and with no real focus. I just thought<br />

having the camera and getting some pictures meant I could<br />

have proof that the walk happened.<br />

Too often though, cameras and nature become synonymous<br />

with ‘landscapes.’ People are quick to want to show others<br />

the proof that they finally got to that place they bragged<br />

about climbing one day or skiing down and they just snap<br />

a random picture of the mountain peaks or the view with<br />

valleys below.<br />

And it is safe to say that at first, I fell into that trap too.<br />

When I would take the photos, I didn’t know how to train my<br />

eye yet and took photos of just about everything.<br />

As I went out on more adventures with my crew, I started to<br />

realise everyone who came out with me wanted the iconic<br />

arms outstretched, on top of a peak looking out into the<br />

world kind of picture...and of course being the only one with<br />

a proper camera out there, I would begrudgingly oblige.<br />

But little did they know that after I gave them their one nice<br />

picture, I kept taking more. I would zoom in really close<br />

to them and their face and walk forward or run at them to<br />

make them laugh. It started as a joke but I soon realised how<br />

interesting those photos actually turned out to be.<br />

Because it was more of a candid shot, their smile would<br />

Right: Two Skiers atop Mt. Ruapehu Pinnacles Ridge scoping out their path into the backcountry.<br />

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e truer, warmer and wider. The rest of their face might<br />

be contorted and their stance awkward, but after every<br />

photoshoot that we would do on these mountain tops, we’d<br />

look at the photos on the camera and would break out<br />

laughing because I captured very real moments of emotion<br />

and the fun that we were having together up there.<br />

Around the campfire or back home after a long mission, those<br />

photos were the ones that were talked about the most. Those<br />

photos were the ones that, although they were candid, were<br />

more interesting and story worthy.<br />

It was during these hikes and adventures that I soon realised<br />

what was really interesting for people to see was how being<br />

out there doing this activity made them feel. What was<br />

missing in all of those quintessential landscape photos was<br />

the human connection to the outdoors.<br />

So I started to turn my camera on the people I was with.<br />

The fascinating thing I learned taking photos of people up<br />

close was that in the middle of whatever activity we were<br />

doing, be it mountain biking, hiking, or snowboarding...the<br />

subjects of my photos were never really aware of what their<br />

bodies were doing.<br />

I would usually run ahead and hide in the bushes, or climb<br />

a tree to get the right angle and wait for a good moment to<br />

snap the photo. As I waited, looking through the camera<br />

viewfinder, I would watch and notice what their bodies were<br />

doing. If we were hiking, was someone taking a massive step<br />

or grabbing onto a tree for support? Were they about to hit a<br />

jump on a mountain bike and making the all too familiar ‘oh<br />

crap this is a big jump’ face?<br />

Whatever it was, I felt like I tried to wait in the right place<br />

for the right shot. It became easy for me to capture these<br />

in between moments and made for some truly interesting<br />

conversations afterward.<br />

In the photo, you could see what the whole experience was<br />

like for that person. You could see the struggle, the hurt, the<br />

random excitement over a cool plant or animal they saw.<br />

So much about the human experience can be photographed<br />

if you know what to look for and when. The trouble is, that<br />

special moment of connection happens so quickly, like action<br />

and adventure sports, that if you are not ready for it you won’t<br />

capture it.<br />

And that happened to me more times than I could count when<br />

I was starting out. Blurry pictures, too bright, too dark, wrong<br />

shutter speed, eyes were closed. You name it, I’ve had it out<br />

there in the field...and boy was that frustrating!<br />

I had no clue about camera settings and let the camera do all<br />

of the work. I wasn’t confident in experimenting because I felt<br />

like I’d lose the opportunity if I didn’t.<br />

One foot in front of the other, Chris. One foot in front of the<br />

other…<br />

__________________________________<br />

This mantra helped me when I went to university to study<br />

marketing. I left photography alone for a while because<br />

studies became intense. I ended up not liking the program,<br />

but took one course that would unknowingly put me on the<br />

path to New Zealand.<br />

It was an entrepreneurship course designed to help us learn<br />

entrepreneurial skills through teaching inner city children how<br />

to create and run a business.<br />

A lot of these children came from poorer areas, so equipping<br />

them with these skills at an early age could help them get out<br />

of situations they couldn’t necessarily control. I didn’t realise<br />

it at the time, but I was helping them follow the same mantra<br />

too. One foot in front of the other.<br />

I loved this course not only because of the skills I passed onto<br />

the children, but because of the human connection it brought.<br />

It was powerful enough to make me change my course of<br />

study and university.<br />

Just when I thought I was onto something and had it all<br />

figured out, I changed schools, and studied to become<br />

a teacher. At first I thought it was just another roadblock,<br />

another shoe in the mud. I was feeling like an exhausted<br />

hiker. But when I arrived at my new university, I realised it was<br />

hours away from the hustle and bustle of the NYC area and<br />

surrounded by nature. Things here would be different.<br />

Top left to right: My brother Mike, my original adventure buddy, after we summited a mountain in New York at sunrise.<br />

My trusty Atlas photo backpack. This thing kept all of my camera gear gear safe throughout the hike!<br />

It's always a treat when the photographer gets a photo of himself! Can you feel my connection to the watermelon here after<br />

9 days of hiking?<br />

Above: Mountain biker having fun on his bike, Whakarewarewa Forest trails, Rotorua<br />

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At SUNY Plattsburgh was where I grew my appreciation and<br />

understanding for the outdoors. It was a cold place, getting<br />

to -30ºC sometimes for days or weeks at a time.<br />

And yet every snowstorm, rainy day or rough weather day, I<br />

was around the campus taking pictures.<br />

Being at this school allowed my excitement for photography<br />

to come back and the studies were going well. I spent a lot<br />

of my free time outdoors and found new crews of people to<br />

go adventuring with. Same story and same routine of going<br />

out together, doing some awesome extreme sport, capturing<br />

photos and sharing them with the friends on the trip.<br />

People liked them...but not much more than that.<br />

Sometimes they would occasionally share them on social<br />

media and they’d say thank you but it didn’t seem like the<br />

photos fully grabbed their attention. I knew what I was after<br />

all along in sharing this human connection with others, but<br />

I started to feel like it was ironic that these photos weren’t<br />

really shared beyond myself and the person in the picture.<br />

I wasn’t sure if it would go anywhere.<br />

Again my interest in photography ebbed and flowed, I<br />

graduated university to become a teacher and had my<br />

sights set on coming to New Zealand and teaching here.<br />

After two years teaching in NYC, I found a job in Auckland<br />

and began my New Zealand career.<br />

I immediately fell in love with this country and decided to<br />

find fellow adventurers like myself. I knew New Zealand<br />

had so much to offer in terms of untamed wild and I<br />

couldn’t wait to explore it. The trouble was I read stories of<br />

international hikers thinking they knew it all in the NZ wild<br />

and giving solo hiking a go, only to get into trouble and have<br />

to get rescued.<br />

I wondered how to find a group that I could safely go with to<br />

learn about the outdoors here. I found a social adventure<br />

company based in Auckland and started going on trips with<br />

them. I quickly fell in with this group and went on hikes and<br />

snowboarded just about every weekend I could. It seemed<br />

like the group for me.<br />

Much like at home, I knew to always bring my camera with<br />

me on these missions. I would of course focus on the<br />

dynamic scenery, but as I started to form friendships with<br />

people in the group, I noticed how easy it was to get them to<br />

be in front of the camera for me.<br />

Sounds familiar.<br />

I quickly realised how effortless it was to leverage the<br />

friendships I was developing in order to obtain these candid<br />

photos.<br />

We would have so much fun on our adventures and the<br />

camera never seemed to get in the way, so I really felt like<br />

I could get up close and personal to my friends in these<br />

moments and create photos that showed what it was truly<br />

like to be out in the New Zealand outdoors.<br />

After each trip, I’d post the photos to social media and more<br />

and more comments came in. I noticed people would save<br />

them as their new profile pictures or share them with family<br />

and the pictures would even get featured on the social<br />

adventure company’s website and social media pages.<br />

I was onto something once again, this time it felt different<br />

because my pictures were being seen by more eyes and<br />

being shown around the country to other adventurers.<br />

What was similar about this situation to my photography at<br />

home in the States was we were outdoors and having fun<br />

together.<br />

Those seemed like they were key ingredients to a<br />

memorable trip and I realised as long as my friend group<br />

and I were having fun on these trips, the content I produced<br />

would reflect that.<br />

I kept going on more weekend getaways and was exposed<br />

to more and more adventure sports New Zealand had to<br />

offer. I started learning how to prepare for and do overnight<br />

hikes, and my adventures in the country grew more and<br />

more extreme.<br />

All with my camera by my side.<br />

In the past three years of being in this country, I have<br />

amassed a wealth of knowledge about the outdoors here<br />

and engaged with incredible athletes and everyday people<br />

while they pursued their hobbies and seeked to achieve the<br />

benefits that come with being an adventurer.<br />

I am happy that all of this time I have been able to be right<br />

beside them in their journeys and figured out a way to<br />

insert myself into sometimes very personal situations and<br />

moments of achievement or even failure.<br />

I have been lucky to shoot photos in the outdoors just about<br />

every weekend since I arrived here, and everything I had<br />

learned thus far would prepare me for my latest and most<br />

intense adventure to date, hiking a portion of Te Araroa, the<br />

NZ long trail that goes from Cape Reinga in the north island<br />

to Bluff in the south island.<br />

_________________________________<br />

If there was a time I needed to remember the hiker’s<br />

mantra, it would be standing at the lighthouse at the Cape<br />

up north, looking down the coast to the start of the track.<br />

On New Year’s day 2021, eleven brave hikers and I set out<br />

to walk the first major leg of Te Araroa for 10 days, from<br />

Cape Reinga to Waitangi. This trip was slated to be the<br />

hardest and most dynamic one I had ever done to date.<br />

All of that time outdoors with my family and friends prepared<br />

me for this adventure, and all of the practise getting in<br />

people’s faces during the adventures and taking photos<br />

would come handy here because I made it my personal goal<br />

to document the hike for everyone with my camera.<br />

I had never hiked with so much camera gear, 10kgs to be<br />

exact, let alone hiked for more than three days at a time...so<br />

much of what happened on this trip was entirely new to me.<br />

Top to bottom: My Te Araroa hiking crew at the Cape...before we got sandy!<br />

Looking south onto Te Araroa and 90 Mile Beach, from the northern edge<br />

60//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 61


nz<br />

I had to wrap all of my individual camera gear in dry bags,<br />

carry four extra batteries to last all ten days, and make<br />

sure I had several backups of memory cards just in case<br />

things went wrong when we were out there. I bought an<br />

amazing 40 Liter hiking pack specifically for camera gear, so<br />

I managed to stuff all of it and then my food and clothing on<br />

top of that. 18 or so kgs later, we were off and walking Te<br />

Araroa.<br />

Like any hiker, I dealt with my own personal struggles on the<br />

walk. Blistered feet, dehydration, mindless walking. I wasn’t<br />

exempt from everything the other hikers felt, and yet I had<br />

to manage capturing their experience. This was the biggest<br />

adventure of my career thus far and I couldn’t miss out no<br />

matter what.<br />

One foot in front of the other…<br />

I kept pace as best as I could, and kept my camera on my<br />

shoulder ready to fire if the moment called for it. As life<br />

would have it, I had to hitchhike after two days and leave my<br />

crew because my blisters were so bad. I struggled with that<br />

decision because I tried so hard to put one foot in front of<br />

the other...I needed to be there to capture the moments for<br />

them.<br />

I was ashamed, but I had to do what was best in the end and<br />

take another route.<br />

I had done that for years with my photography up until this<br />

point and would feel terrible about missing this chance to<br />

capture such an intense adventure.<br />

Lucky that after only 2 days rest, I was able to meet the<br />

group again and carry on to finish in Waitangi, having hiked<br />

7 of the 10 days together.<br />

________________________________<br />

Hiking and documenting Te Araroa was, and has been, the<br />

pinnacle of my photography career thus far, but looking back<br />

on everything that needed to happen to achieve this wonderful<br />

goal, I could not have done it without the hiker’s mantra.<br />

I continue to pride myself on taking shots that embody the<br />

human connection to the outdoors, and I was able to capture<br />

that on Te Araroa but I recognize now after what seems like<br />

years and years in the making, this industry requires trust in<br />

yourself and trust in those around you.<br />

Trust in the process has helped me think past the shame,<br />

focus on the growth and ultimately reflect on how lucky I am<br />

to have now worked with big names in the industry and see<br />

my photos around in everyday life here.<br />

It is a long road to notoriety in this business, but if you are<br />

willing to put one foot in front of the other, you will eventually<br />

reach your goal and realise that the long path to success is<br />

worth the pain.<br />

I never would have thought I would go from being a teacher<br />

to now an adventure photographer, but I wouldn’t change it<br />

for the world.<br />

What I wonder now is...where’s the next adventure going to<br />

be?<br />

To see more of Chris's work, check out www.chrischasephotography.com<br />

Above: There is a reason it is called Twilight Beach. A beautiful sunset on night 1 of our 10 day adventure<br />

62//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong>


UNIVERSAL BLUETOOTH® HI-FI AUDIO AND COMMUNICATION<br />

SYSTEM FOR AUDIO-READY SKI AND SNOWBOARD HELMETS<br />

The first major snows are starting to fall across the<br />

Southern Hemisphere, and snow lovers are gearing<br />

up for the imminent resort openings. Of course, the<br />

usual pre-season rituals are being performed; watching<br />

videos, keeping tabs on the weather, getting an edge<br />

and wax… and searching for that amazing new piece<br />

of gear that will kick this season off right.<br />

Of all the exciting new technology available this<br />

season, now available to Kiwi and Aussie snowsports<br />

enthusiasts is a way to convert their snow helmet into<br />

an audio and communications marvel.<br />

THE ALECK 006 - UNIVERSAL WIRELESS HELMET<br />

AUDIO & COMMUNICATION<br />

Aleck 006 is the wireless audio system that brings premium<br />

sound and push-to-talk communication capability to any ski<br />

or snowboard helmet. With simple, glove-friendly controls for<br />

music and instant group communication from anywhere on<br />

the mountain, Aleck 006 puts your playlist at your fingertips,<br />

keeps your squad in touch on storm days, and makes<br />

meeting up for aprés easy. Any day on the snow is a good<br />

one, but the Aleck 006 makes every run better.<br />

GROUP PUSH-TO-TALK COMMS<br />

We all know how to use a walkie-talkie, and that’s how Aleck<br />

006 works—just press and talk. The Aleck GO! app (iPhone<br />

and Android) lets you easily switch channels between single<br />

users and as many custom groups as you want to create.<br />

Keep a family group and a big friend group, and add friends<br />

and family members on the fly.<br />

HIGH-FIDELITY AUDIO<br />

Aleck 006 is tuned for the optimal helmet audio experience right<br />

out of the box, with crisp highs and hard-hitting lows from its two<br />

40mm titanium drivers. Need a more individual audio experience?<br />

The powerful in-app equalizer allows you to fine-tune the treble,<br />

bass, and midrange until you nail that signature sound.<br />

GROUP GPS MAPPING<br />

Losing touch on the mountain is all too easy, especially on<br />

storm days and among riders with different ability levels. With<br />

GPS tracking in the Aleck GO! app, you can map the location of<br />

everyone in your crew—whether you’re waiting at the lift for a<br />

friend or you’re the one who’s gone AWOL!<br />

UNIVERSAL FIT<br />

Aleck 006 features a low-profile, lightweight design that’s<br />

compatible with any audio-ready snow helmet—at least every one<br />

we could get our hands on.<br />

Pick up the Aleck 006 now at Torpedo 7 or www.Aleck.io<br />

15-17 OCTOBER 2021 SPRING CHALLENGE NORTH NAPIER, HAWKE’S BAY<br />

FOR MORE INFO AND TO ENTER: WWW.SPRINGCHALLENGE.CO.NZ<br />

Make time to have adventures<br />

with your friends!<br />

64//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong>


TEMPERATURE<br />

IS DROPPING...<br />

SO IS THE SNOW!<br />

The temperature is dropping and so is the snow on the<br />

mountain tops. Many people are now turning their mind to<br />

decide upon a winter adventure for the year. This raises<br />

many questions some of which include:<br />

• Where is the best place to go for what I want to do?<br />

• What gear do I need to pack?<br />

• What skills do I need for the type of adventure I would<br />

like to have?<br />

• If I am going into the backcountry how much do I need<br />

to worry about the avalanche risk?<br />

• Where should I stay?<br />

• Who else can I go with?<br />

List goes on and sometimes is seemingly endless!<br />

However, the answer to these questions may be somewhat<br />

simple, namely find a reputable guiding company and let<br />

them do the work for you! Obviously, the benefits of using<br />

a guide vary considerably depending upon your skills,<br />

knowledge and the type of experience you are seeking.<br />

However, the list of benefits of being guided on your next<br />

winter adventure, not surprising, is also very long.<br />

66//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 67


AEROSIZE AIRBAG SYSTEM<br />

AVALANCHE AIRBAG<br />

WITH HYBRID STRUCTURE<br />

Lightweight, safety-tested and stylish, 'vest ONE' by<br />

AEROSIZE is the world's first certified avalanche<br />

airbag compact vest.<br />

Geared towards people exposed to the danger of snow<br />

avalanches, the vest contains AEROSIZE’s patented<br />

hybrid airbag system that’s smaller than your average<br />

avalanche backpack kit. However, the airbag retains<br />

the standard capacity of 174 liters when filled up,<br />

offering protection for off-piste snowboarding, skiing,<br />

snowmobiles and rescue teams.<br />

After pulling the trigger of Vest ONE, compressed gas<br />

from the cartridges inflates only the airbag structural<br />

chamber, therefore the airbag frame grows and<br />

stretches the fabric of the airbag walls. The rest of the<br />

volume of the airbag is filled automatically with<br />

air sucked in from the environment, allowing<br />

AEROSIZE to minimize the size of the components,<br />

the whole system, and the final product.<br />

The most important feature of the vest and the system<br />

is its small size and compatibleness with most of<br />

regualr backpacks (also specialized ones), thanks to<br />

it user stays protected with removed backpack. The<br />

design underlines the function of the vest while the<br />

aesthetics intend to underline its reliability,<br />

professional use and compactness.<br />

For more information and to purchase go to<br />

www.aerosize.com<br />

Backyard Brains Trust<br />

Qualified guides such as IFMGA or NZMGA have<br />

hundreds of days experience in the backcountry and have<br />

spent generally a decade or more gaining the knowledge<br />

and experience to guide clients. Put these qualified guides<br />

in a team and you have hundreds of years of experience<br />

all in one place. If this team cannot find you the adventure<br />

you are looking for, then something is wrong.<br />

In addition to helping you find the right adventure, the<br />

combined brain power of our guides also helps ensure that<br />

we have a wealth and depth of knowledge in terms of the<br />

local terrain and an institutional depth of current condition<br />

knowledge to find the ‘good stuff’ and avoid ‘the bad stuff.’<br />

Snow Safety<br />

In the backcountry ski-touring with a guide who knows<br />

the snowpack and understands the avalanche conditions<br />

makes a lot of sense. For those of you who don’t have<br />

the time or inclination to be this up to speed with snow<br />

safety the guide can most certainly maximise the amount<br />

of time you can spend skiing as opposed to managing<br />

snow safety and avalanche risk for yourself. If you are the<br />

kind of person who has spent countless hours and dollars<br />

attending avalanche awareness courses and love doing<br />

your ‘snow profiles’ and ‘log book’ there is still a lot to learn<br />

from a guide. As well as seeing how your guide reads the<br />

snow on the day, your guide will also have the benefit from<br />

the collective input of snow safety professionals prior to<br />

heading into the backcountry. If you want to tap into this<br />

knowledge may come away from you day with more than<br />

great turns.<br />

Route finding<br />

We all know that whenever you go somewhere new a<br />

significant amount of time is often spent route finding, or<br />

dare we say it, getting lost! Obviously a guide knows not<br />

just the terrain and the route but more importantly where<br />

the best snow is! So where you ski with a guide you tend<br />

to spend a lot less time on navigation and a log more time<br />

on fresh lines.<br />

Skills development<br />

The often-forgotten benefit of an experienced guide is<br />

that they can also be a great mentor that can support your<br />

learning in the field. They can take time to evaluate your<br />

skills and help with progressions to expand your toolbox.<br />

Your guide can ultimately support you to develop skills that<br />

can enable you to have more adventures on your own.<br />

More often than not people are surprised by what they can<br />

learn by spending time with a guide, whether it was their<br />

intention to develop their skills further or not!<br />

Risk Management<br />

The backcountry has many inherent risks. This is a fact<br />

and one that should not be underestimated particularly in<br />

Aotearoa. Undertaking a trip<br />

To find a guide near you check out:<br />

www.aspiringguides.com<br />

68//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong>


PHOTO : ©Blake JORGENSON


KEEPING OUT THE COLD<br />

merrell Haven Mid Lace Waterproof Women’s $329.00<br />

As spontaneous as the weather. The Haven is up for<br />

anything, with seam sealed waterproof construction,<br />

100 grams of insulation and grip for traction during<br />

winter conditions.<br />

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ<br />

merrell Moab <strong>Adventure</strong> Chelsea Polar Waterproof<br />

Men’s $299.00<br />

Get all-day comfort with the same out-of-the-box<br />

fit you expect from Moab. This Chelsea delivers a<br />

lifestyle look, waterproofing, insulation and traction<br />

for winter weather adventures.<br />

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ<br />

Outdoor Research alti gloves $249.99<br />

Modular, waterproof/breathable gloves with<br />

revolutionary 3DFit Technology. PrimaLoft<br />

HiLoft and upgraded liner with PrimaLoft® Active<br />

for better moisture management and improved<br />

dexterity.<br />

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ/OUTDOOR-RESEARCH<br />

sealskinz Cold Weather Mid Length Sock $89.99<br />

The original, 100% waterproof, windproof &<br />

breathable mid length sock. The inner lining is<br />

crafted from fine Merino Wool to insulate and<br />

regulate temperature making this perfect for use in<br />

colder weather conditions.<br />

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ<br />

merrell Tremblant Polar Waterproof $349.00<br />

Designed for frozen winters. This mid-cut boot takes on<br />

cold conditions with super-comfortable, 200 grams of<br />

low bulk insulation and a waterproof lining. Stay warm<br />

and dry in the Tremblant boot this winter.<br />

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ<br />

AEROSIZE VEST ONE (PRICE 749 EURO WITH 4 GAS<br />

CARTRIDGES - 2 INFLATIONS)<br />

First compact avalanche airbag vest. This system<br />

allows you to use almost every type of backpack, and<br />

protects you even when you have your backpack off.<br />

Volume of the airbag 174 litres. Total weight with 2<br />

argon cartridges - 1985g.<br />

WWW.AEROSIZE.COM<br />

Macpac Traverse Tights $129.99<br />

Weather anything in a pair of toasty fleece tights<br />

made for every winter adventure. Perfect on hikes and<br />

camping trips around the snowline, the soft polyester is<br />

paired with elastane for stretch. Just as suitable when<br />

it’s freezing at sea-level, a mesh pocket inside the<br />

waistband (men’s) and side thigh pockets (women’s)<br />

are perfect for holding keys or other small items.<br />

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ<br />

Macpac Ion Polartec® Fleece Hooded Jacket $229.99<br />

An active mid layer made for comfort when you’re<br />

anything but comfortable. The structure of Polartec®<br />

Power Grid increases its ability to provide<br />

breathable warmth while decreasing weight and<br />

improving compressibility — perfect when you’re<br />

making the most of the outdoors. Also available as a<br />

half-zip pullover.<br />

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ<br />

Black Crows Camox Birdie $1399.95<br />

A womens specific, incomparable mid-fat all terrain<br />

ski reputed for its tolerance and playfulness. The<br />

association of a very progressive flex and good<br />

length side lines brings great manoeuvrability and<br />

strong hold at high speed. With a DNA derived from<br />

freestyle, the progressive and supple flex makes it<br />

easy to handle and adapted to progression; whereas<br />

its side lines give a very effective and stable edge.<br />

Creativity for everybody on all types of terrain.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTER.CO.NZ<br />

Black Crows Serpo NEW 93mm Ski $1499.95<br />

A newcomer in all-terrain skiing, the Serpo is<br />

designed for the piste and partially for off-piste.<br />

With 93mm at the waist, it’s a good carver, it’s there<br />

to really play with the terrain with its good flex and<br />

responsiveness together thanks to its layer of metal<br />

for grip and stability.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTER.CO.NZ<br />

Black Crows Mirus Cor NEW 87mm Ski $<br />

A brand new UFO, the Mirus’ Cor is a ski for<br />

performance and design, to achieve an alliance<br />

between two worlds: freestyle and the most angular<br />

curves of today. Built with a fairly long rocker and a<br />

split tail, it allows short curves for playing, for piste, and<br />

for the side of the ski run, it is carving in a black crows<br />

approach and/or all terrain freestyle. Accessible, wellbuilt,<br />

and creative from any point of view.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTER.CO.NZ<br />

Outdoor Research Carbide Bibs $499.99<br />

Waterproof, 3-layer 40D Pertex® Shield protection<br />

with versatility and comfort. Features internal stretch<br />

mesh gaiters and reinforced scuff guards. 696g (med)<br />

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ/OUTDOOR-RESEARCH


KEEPING OUT THE COLD<br />

sealskinz Waterproof All Weather Ultra Grip Knitted<br />

Glove $89.99<br />

The original, 100% waterproof, windproof &<br />

breathable knitted glove. Offering grip and an equal<br />

balance of warmth and breathability. Ideal for use in<br />

all weather conditions.<br />

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ<br />

Rab Kaon $399.95<br />

Hybrid jacket with 70g of 800-fill power RDS-certified hydrophobic European goose<br />

down in hood and body, Stratos synthetic insulation in shoulders, cuffs and hips.<br />

Ripstop nylon fabric, stitch-through construction, YKK reverse coil chest pocket, YKK<br />

front zip, half hem drawcord, stuff sack.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />

Rab Microlight Alpine $399.95<br />

Filled with 143g of 750-fill power hydrophobic down, RDScertified,<br />

water-resistant Pertex Quantum Infinity Weave<br />

fabric, harness-compatible hand pockets, two-way front zip<br />

with insulated zip baffle, stretch cuffs fit over gloves, helmetcompatible<br />

hood with an internal stretch gaiter to seal out wind.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />

black diamond first light stretch hoody $449.99<br />

The perfect layer for backcountry rock walls, big alpine faces, and frigid weekend ski tours,<br />

the Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoody is the ultimate in dynamic four-season insulation<br />

that breathes efficiently and stretches with your every movement. Other colours available.<br />

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ<br />

Rab Xenon $349.95<br />

Stratos recycled polyester synthetic insulation, ripstop<br />

lining and outer fabric, under helmet hood with<br />

stretch binding, two-way opening YKK front zip with<br />

insulated internal zip baffle and chin guard, zippered<br />

handwarmer pockets, internal zippered pocket, stuffs<br />

into pocket, elasticated cuffs, hem drawcord.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />

74//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong><br />

SALEWA WILDFIRE EDGE GORE-TEX® $399.90<br />

The Wildfire Edge Gore-Tex® is an approach shoe that can be adapted from hiking mode<br />

to climbing mode - Simply tighten the switch-fit lacing system at the rear eyelet and then do<br />

them up. The Pomoca Speed MTN outsole offers enhanced grip and friction in both dry and<br />

wet conditions.<br />

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />

SALEWA VULTUR EVO GORE-TEX® $699.90<br />

Our Vultur Evo is an extremely robust alpine boot with a rugged Perwanger suede leather<br />

upper, durable TPU toe cap and full protective rand. The waterproof GORE-TEX® lining<br />

offers insulation and climate control; For mountaineering, mixed routes and glacier crossing,<br />

the stiff nylon and carbon loaded fibreglass insole ensures hybrid crampon compatibility,<br />

while the Bilight midsole provides good walking comfort. The Vibram® WTC outsole has an<br />

aggressive tread for high traction and a climbing zone at the toe for precise footwork.<br />

Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 940 g (W) 785 g (pictured)<br />

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />

Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket $349.99<br />

The new version of this best-selling jacket has a dramatically<br />

reduced carbon footprint yet maintains its quality and<br />

performance. Warm, windproof, water-resistant, it uses incredibly<br />

lightweight and highly compressible 60-g PrimaLoft® Gold<br />

Insulation Eco with 55% post-consumer recycled content,<br />

wrapped in a 100% recycled polyester shell and lining. Fair Trade<br />

Certified sewn.<br />

WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ/NANO-PUFF


Rab Electron $549.95<br />

800-fill power European goose<br />

down, RDS-certified,<br />

water-resistant Pertex fabric,<br />

stitch-through construction,<br />

various baffle sizes reduce<br />

bulk, 170g fill weight,<br />

small-volume<br />

helmet-compatible hood,<br />

YKK zips, elasticated cuffs,<br />

internal security pocket.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />

KEEPING OUT THE COLD<br />

SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 MID GORE-TEX® $399.90<br />

The Alp Trainer 2 Mid GTX has a suede leather<br />

and stretch fabric upper with a protective rubber<br />

rand. Featuring a GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort<br />

lining for optimal waterproofing and breathability,<br />

and customizable Multi Fit Footbed (MFF) with<br />

interchangeable layers allows you to adapt it to the<br />

unique shape of your foot.<br />

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />

SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER 2 GORE-TEX® $399.90<br />

Our MTN Trainer 2 is a hard-wearing and versatile<br />

low-cut alpine approach shoe with a high-quality<br />

1.6-millimetre suede leather upper, full protective<br />

rubber rand, a fast-drying GORE-TEX® Extended<br />

Comfort lining and a Vibram® outsole.<br />

Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 458 g (W) 396 g<br />

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />

Outdoor Research Refuge air<br />

Hooded Jacket $399.99<br />

Water and wind-resistant jacket<br />

that helps you retain heat while<br />

working hard using the adaptable<br />

VerticalX Air insulation that keeps<br />

you warm when you need it and<br />

rapidly moves moisture the moment<br />

you start to perspire. 424g (w/m)<br />

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ/<br />

OUTDOOR-RESEARCH<br />

Outdoor Research Helium Down Hoody $449.99<br />

Taking lightweight warmth to a new level with durable, abrasion-resistant Pertex®<br />

Quantum with Diamond Fuse Technology that protects the 800+ fill goose down<br />

without adding weight. Pertex® Shield with Diamond Fuse fabric adds weather<br />

protection to the hood and shoulders. 436g (med)<br />

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ/OUTDOOR-RESEARCH<br />

Outdoor Research Refuge Hooded Jacket $419.99<br />

Water-resistant jacket using high-loft VerticalX<br />

synthetic insulation technology for resilient,<br />

breathable performance keeping you warm even<br />

when wet and so compressible it stows into its own<br />

hand pocket. 569g (m/l)<br />

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ/OUTDOOR-RESEARCH<br />

Rab Valiance $699.95<br />

With 170g of 800-fill power RDS-certified hydrophobic<br />

European goose down, nylon inner, Pertex Shield<br />

taped waterproof outer, bonded narrow box-wall<br />

construction, synthetic insulation filled hood and<br />

cuffs, helmet-compatible, wired peak, YPP zips, hand<br />

warmer pockets, internal security pocket, drawcord<br />

hem, stuff sack. WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />

SALEWA raven 3 GORE-TEX® $599.90<br />

Our Raven 3 GORE-TEX® mountaineering boot has an abrasion-resistant fabric<br />

upper to offer exceptional stability, durability and performance, all in a lightweight<br />

construction. The protective rubber rand and external TPU toe cap increase comfort<br />

and protection.<br />

Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 829 g (W) 629 g (pictured)<br />

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />

Macpac Pulsar PrimaLoft® Hooded Jacket — Men's and<br />

Women’s $329.99<br />

A technical climbing jacket suitable for on-snow<br />

activities. Pertex® Quantum outer fabric provides<br />

exceptional breathability, PrimaLoft® Gold insulation<br />

offers outstanding warmth in wet conditions, and 100%<br />

recycled fabrics are all responsibly-sourced. The hood<br />

is helmet-compatible, too.<br />

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ


equip<br />

yourself!<br />

kiwi camping Morepork 1 Deluxe Swag $499.00<br />

Designed with 2 large storage vestibules and 2 entrances, porch for added shade, generous inner height,<br />

‘no-see-um’ mesh, 7.7kg pack weight and handy storage pocket.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ/PRODUCT/MOREPORK-1-DELUXE-SWAG<br />

kiwi camping Tuatara 2.5 x 2.5 Awning $399.00<br />

Offers 6.25m² of covered area for sun or rain protection. 200g polycotton canvas awning, twist-lock<br />

design, adjustable height and mounts directly to existing roof rack.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ/PRODUCT/TUATARA-SIDE-WALL-SIDE-AWNING-25M<br />

Macpac Rapaki 25L Backpack<br />

$199.99<br />

Built to last a lifetime, the Rapaki<br />

25 has been a staple for years.<br />

The latest version is made with<br />

a 100% recycled lining and 3D<br />

Moulded Mesh back panel for daylong<br />

comfort in the hills — or on<br />

your daily commute. It also has an<br />

attachment for your walking poles,<br />

two zipped pockets, a front mesh<br />

stash pocket, removable hip-belt,<br />

and its padded laptop sleeve is<br />

hydration bladder-compatible.<br />

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ<br />

Gasmate Hiker Stove $59.99<br />

Ideal for serious backpackers with a 170mm support<br />

span. The adjustable flame control provides over<br />

10,500 BTU output. Lightweight with foldable arms<br />

and piezo ignition.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ/PRODUCT/HIKER-<br />

STOVE<br />

sunsaver classic 16,000 mah solar power bank<br />

$119.00<br />

Built tough for the outdoors and with a massive<br />

battery capacity you can keep all your devices<br />

charged no matter where your adventure takes you.<br />

WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ<br />

Macpac Amp Ultra Running Vest $249.99<br />

Made for trail runners of all levels, the Amp Ultra helps you<br />

go further, faster, safer. It has room to keep an extra layer,<br />

snacks and walking poles within arm’s reach, and two<br />

500ml HydraPak soft bottles are included so you can stay<br />

topped up on-the-go. Designed to sit higher on your back<br />

for stability, the adjustable front closure makes it easy to<br />

create a perfect fit. Available in three sizes.<br />

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ<br />

Low Prices Everyday<br />

Free NZ Shipping on<br />

orders over $150 for<br />

members<br />

Members Earn Equip+<br />

Loyalty Points<br />

shop online or instore<br />

equipoutdoors.co.nz<br />

Kiwi camping Rover Lite 3cm Self-Inflating Mat $99.99<br />

Compact to pack and carry, the Rover Lite self-inflates in minutes. The tapered design can fit in a<br />

sleeping bag, 1830mm long and 550mm wide.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ/PRODUCT/ROVER-LITE-SELF-INFLATING-MAT<br />

gasmate MR Heater Portable Buddy $399.00<br />

Portable Buddy is a propane gas heater that is both<br />

lightweight and robust heating up to 18m². Featuring a<br />

low oxygen and accidental tip-over safety shut-off.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ/PRODUCT/MR-<br />

HEATER-PORTABLE-BUDDY<br />

kiwi camping Harrier 4 Tourer Tent $649.00<br />

This tourer tent is designed without a central pole that take up valuable space. Made from 320g polycotton<br />

ripstop and a heavy-duty PVC bucket floor.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ/PRODUCT/HARRIER-4-TOURER-TENT<br />

62 Killarney Road,<br />

Frankton, Hamilton,<br />

New Zealand<br />

P: 0800 22 67 68<br />

E: sales@equipoutdoors.co.nz<br />

78//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong>


ack country cuisine $9.29 - $13.89<br />

CHICKEN CARBONARA: A freeze dried chicken<br />

and pasta dish, served in a creamy italian style<br />

sauce. Available small serve (90g) or regular (175g)<br />

MUSHROOM BOLOGNAISE (Vegan) Mushrooms<br />

with tomato in a savoury sauce, served with noodles.<br />

Available small serve (90g) or regular (175g)<br />

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ<br />

back country cuisine<br />

CHOCOLATE BROWNIE PUDDING $12.89: Our take<br />

on chocolate self-saucing pudding, with chocolate<br />

brownie, boysenberries and chocolate sauce. Gluten<br />

Free. Available in regular serve (150g)<br />

ICED MOCHA $4.09: Our mocha is made with<br />

chocolate and coffee combined with soft serve to give<br />

you a tasty drink on the run. Gluten Free. 85g.<br />

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ<br />

POUCHES<br />

SOFT - PLASTIC<br />

RECYCLABLE<br />

Deep Creek Brewing- Sentinel $8.99<br />

STYLE: Hazy IPA AVB: 6.5%<br />

This White Tiger Sentinel is inspired by one<br />

of the four guardians of Chinese mythology,<br />

which represents the autumn season. Enjoy the<br />

beautiful passionfruit and a sprinkling of guava<br />

taste!<br />

WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ<br />

Deep Creek Brewing- Sentinel $9.99<br />

STYLE: Sour -Ginger and Peach AVB: 4.5%<br />

Fresh New Zealand peaches combined with the<br />

perfect amount of ginger bring to life this playful,<br />

delicious and refreshing latest addition to our sour<br />

family. Tune in with the Ukulele!<br />

WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ<br />

NZ’S NO.1 MEALS<br />

FOR HIKING<br />

ADVENTURES<br />

Find out<br />

more <br />

<br />

<br />

backcountrycuisine.co.nz/pouches<br />

radix nutrition EXPEDITION 800 | Plant-Based<br />

Turkish Style Falafel $15.90<br />

These 800kcal meals are designed for extreme<br />

energy requirements. They’re light weight, taste<br />

delicious and suitable in all environments.<br />

WWW.RADIXNUTRITION.COM<br />

radix nutrition PERFORMANCE 600 | Mexican Chilli<br />

with Organic Beef $14.90<br />

These 600kcal meals are the perfect lunch or dinner<br />

option for hikers and adventurers wanting to take<br />

their performance to the next level.<br />

WWW.RADIXNUTRITION.COM


FEED YOUR ADDICTION<br />

Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and<br />

development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are<br />

made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole<br />

new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s<br />

online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able<br />

drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are<br />

a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.<br />

Ultra lightweight running shoes, made by runners. No<br />

matter where the trail takes you, Hoka One One will<br />

have you covered.<br />

www.hokaoneone.co.nz<br />

New Zealands largest independent Outdoor and<br />

Paddle store.<br />

www.furtherfaster.co.nz<br />

Never have a dead phone<br />

again! Because now you can<br />

charge straight from the Sun<br />

with SunSaver. Perfect for<br />

that week-long hike, day at<br />

the beach, or back-up for any<br />

emergency. Check us out at:<br />

www.sunsaver.co.nz<br />

www.packraftingqueenstown.com<br />

Specialising in<br />

small group guided<br />

packrafting trips and<br />

courses from our base<br />

in Queenstown New<br />

Zealand.<br />

Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor<br />

clothing, footwear and equipment from the best<br />

brands across New Zealand & the globe.<br />

www.bivouac.co.nz<br />

Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel<br />

& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &<br />

casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.<br />

www.merrell.co.nz<br />

www.adventuresouth.co.nz<br />

Whether you enjoy<br />

cycle trails, road<br />

cycling, mountain<br />

biking or walking,<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong> South NZ<br />

can help you to explore<br />

New Zealand at<br />

your own pace.<br />

Full-service outfitter selling hiking<br />

and mountaineering gear and<br />

apparel, plus equipment rentals.<br />

Specialising in ski & snowboard<br />

touring equipment new & used;<br />

skis, boards, bindings, skins,<br />

probs, shovels,transceivers &<br />

avalanche packs.<br />

www.smallplanetsports.com<br />

Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills<br />

or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last<br />

and engineered to perform — proudly designed and<br />

tested in New Zealand since 1973.<br />

www.macpac.co.nz<br />

Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment<br />

specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place<br />

for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents, outdoor<br />

clothing and more.<br />

www.livingsimply.co.nz<br />

Our motto is “Going the<br />

distance” and we pride<br />

ourselves on providing top<br />

quality outdoor and travel<br />

equipment and service<br />

that will go the distance<br />

with you, wherever that<br />

may be.<br />

www.trekntravel.co.nz<br />

Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional<br />

outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.<br />

www.patagonia.co.nz<br />

Offering the widest variety,<br />

best tasting, and most<br />

nutrient rich hydration,<br />

energy, and recovery<br />

products on the market.<br />

www.guenergy.co.nz<br />

Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.<br />

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />

Stocking an extensive range<br />

of global outdoor adventure<br />

brands for your next big<br />

adventure. See them for travel,<br />

tramping, trekking, alpine and<br />

lifestyle clothing and gear.<br />

www.outfittersstore.nz<br />

Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,<br />

Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, <strong>Adventure</strong> Tents,<br />

Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.<br />

www.equipoutdoors.co.nz<br />

Jetboil builds super-dependable<br />

backpacking stoves and camping<br />

systems that pack light,<br />

set up quick, and achieve<br />

rapid boils in minutes.<br />

www.jetboilnz.co.nz<br />

Supplying tents and<br />

camping gear to Kiwis<br />

for over 30 years, Kiwi<br />

Camping are proud to<br />

be recognised as one of<br />

the most trusted outdoor<br />

brands in New Zealand.<br />

www.kiwicamping.co.nz<br />

Reusable, BPA free water bottles containing a unique 3-in-<br />

1 filtration technology providing clean safe drinking water<br />

from any non-salt water source anywhere in the world.<br />

www.watertogo.co.nz<br />

Our very own online store where<br />

you will find hard goods to keep you<br />

equipped for any adventure.<br />

www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz<br />

Radix provides freeze dried<br />

meals and smoothies made<br />

with all natural ingredients.<br />

These are perfect for<br />

athletes and adventures<br />

who care about their health<br />

and performance. Gluten<br />

free, Plant-based and Keto<br />

www.radixnutrition.com<br />

options are available.<br />

Get 10% off your first order online.<br />

Excellent quality Outdoor<br />

Gear at prices that can't<br />

be beaten. End of lines.<br />

Ex Demos. Samples. Last<br />

season. Bearpaw. Garneau.<br />

Ahnu. Superfeet.<br />

www.adventureoutlet.co.nz<br />

82//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong>


BE PART OF WHERE<br />

THE WORLD IS GOING<br />

In our ever-changing world, imagine how empowering it would<br />

be to take control of your finances and explore the new frontier<br />

of buying, selling and saving.<br />

Qoin digital currency will open an exciting new world for you.<br />

It is innovative, progressive and easily transactional.<br />

oin<br />

Be part of where the world is going and discover<br />

a completely new way to shop.<br />

Visit qoin.world to find out more.<br />

SOAKED IN ADVENTURE<br />

It was a brisk morning as we stood in the paddock listening<br />

to the final safety briefing before the start of the Soaked in<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong> race held in Whakatane in late May. Although the<br />

event has been running for the past few years, it is the first<br />

time Team Mis-<strong>Adventure</strong> had taken part. The idea of another<br />

weekend away with our adventure friends was the main<br />

incentive, but we also liked the idea of a new challenge. A<br />

weather bomb was predicted to hit the east coast the following<br />

day and we just hoped that the weather would hold until then.<br />

The Soaked in <strong>Adventure</strong> Race is a team sport which involves<br />

running or trekking and mountain biking. Check points are<br />

collected along the way and you complete some exciting<br />

mystery activities. You find out where the start and finish line<br />

is the week before the race and will not see the course maps<br />

until the morning of the race. Once you receive your maps you<br />

can plan and strategise your course route and you must stick<br />

together and complete the race as a team.<br />

The race began in the paddock of a farm out the back of<br />

Whakatane, in Taneatua and was split into two sections,<br />

trekking and mountain biking with some mystery activities<br />

thrown in for good measure. We set off first on the trek section,<br />

with around 28 checkpoints to find. The terrain began on<br />

typical NZ farmland; wide open space with plenty of uphill’s<br />

before heading through a muddy swamp and into some<br />

native bush. The first few checkpoints were fairly easy to find,<br />

however checkpoint 8 proved a bit of a challenge.<br />

By now we were in fairly dense bush and after scrambling over<br />

fallen trees and down a very steep slope, we found we were<br />

completely alone. We had started the race with over 85 teams,<br />

but there was now not another person to be seen or heard. To<br />

be honest, this is the part I love about adventure racing, the<br />

feeling of being completely alone and having to rely purely on<br />

your own navigation and sense of direction. This is something<br />

usually reserved only for the teams either out the very front,<br />

forging their own paths, or for those who go in the wrong<br />

direction, like we did. Luckily we had not strayed too far from<br />

the "path" and so decided to turn back. As we were navigating<br />

our way down a stream, there was a loud noise beside us, it<br />

seemed we had startled a lone deer, which then darted out<br />

from behind a bush and disappeared up the bank on the other<br />

side. It was super cool and worth getting lost for.<br />

Once back on track we continued the trekking section (approx.<br />

10-15km) and the first mystery activities before picking up our<br />

bikes and heading out for the final section of the race (approx.<br />

25km mountain biking). The scenery continued to surprise,<br />

with stops at the most beautiful river for one of the mystery<br />

activities. The freezing cold water on our feet was a nice way<br />

to ease some of the aches and pains and also wash off the<br />

animal poop that had collected during the walk.<br />

For most of the ride we appreciated the scenery and enjoyed<br />

nearly every km, except for the 500m vertical hill that we had<br />

to push our bikes up. Our quads and calves were burning and<br />

unless you had your hand on the breaks when you stopped to<br />

catch your breath your bike would have tumbled back down<br />

to the bottom again. Although I hated every single step, I<br />

did get to witness some real teamwork. Those who found it<br />

a little easier, dropped their bikes at the top and went back<br />

down to help team mates who were struggling, and this is<br />

what adventure racing is all about. The downhill section that<br />

followed almost made up for it… but not quite!<br />

We crossed the finish line 5 hours 48minutes after we started,<br />

our aches and pains almost forgotten in the euphoria of having<br />

pushed ourselves to our limits once again.<br />

Soaked in <strong>Adventure</strong> runs three events through the year:<br />

Soaked in <strong>Adventure</strong> Whakatane: May 22nd 2021<br />

Soaked in <strong>Adventure</strong> Cambridge: July 3rd 2021<br />

Wander Woman Russell: November 13th 2021<br />

For more information or to enter checkout: www.soakedinadventure.co.nz<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 85


SUBSCRIBE<br />

TO BE IN TO WIN FIVE NIGHTS AT<br />

PACIFIC RESORT RAROTONGA<br />

IN THE BEAUTIFUL COOK ISLANDS<br />

SUBSCRIBE AT<br />

WWW.PACIFICMEDIA-SHOP.CO.NZ<br />

PRIZE<br />

INCLUDES:<br />

• Five nights in a Premium Garden Suite<br />

for two people<br />

• Free use of kayaks, snorkelling gear,<br />

beach towels and sun loungers.<br />

• Daily Tropical Breakfast at Sandals<br />

Restaurant.<br />

• Free scheduled daily activities at the<br />

Beach Hut.<br />

• Free Kids Club (for children aged 6-12).<br />

• Daily guest welcome orientation on the<br />

beach.<br />

www.pacificresort.com/adventure-nz-special-offers/<br />

TERMS AND CONDITIONS:<br />

• Travel is valid 01 November 2021 to 31 May 2022<br />

(with blackout dates from 25 Dec 2021 to 10 Jan<br />

2022}<br />

• Accommodation is subject to availability at time of<br />

prize redemption.<br />

• This prize is not transferable or redeemable for cash.<br />

• International and domestic flights are not included in<br />

this prize.<br />

• This Prize cannot be combined with any live specials<br />

and tactical campaigns in the market place and<br />

cannot be booked via any travel professional or<br />

travel wholesaler.<br />

• All other expenses are the responsibility of the prize<br />

winner.<br />

• Pacific Resort Hotel Group strongly recommends the<br />

prize winner purchases travel insurance at the time<br />

of booking the prize accommodation.


The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Lagoonarium<br />

AITUTAKI LAGOON PRIVATE ISLAND RESORT-ADULTS-ONLY • COOK ISLANDS<br />

Overwater Heaven<br />

Float over the world’s bluest blue.<br />

Aitutaki. Lonely Planet founder Tony Wheeler’s favourite island.<br />

Indulge in the ONLY Overwater Bungalows on the ONLY private island resort<br />

in the fabled Cook Islands (just west of Tahiti) at the ONLY resort set directly on<br />

the World’s Most Beautiful Lagoon. Heaven sent for romantic escapes, birthdays,<br />

anniversaries, honeymoons ... and even second honeymoons.<br />

For guests aged 16+. Pure bliss.<br />

TRAVEL BUBBLES<br />

Aitutaki Lagoon | COOK ISLANDS<br />

info@aitutakilagoonresort.com | www.AitutakiLagoonResort.com (Live Chat avail.)<br />

P +682-31 200<br />

THE LIGHT AT THE END OF A VERY LONG TUNNEL<br />

Experience the Cook Islands’ Signature Beach Resort<br />

• Rarotonga’s best 4 star Full-service beach resort | 110 rooms/suites/bungalow/villas<br />

• Prime, secluded white sandy Aroa Beach | Best snorkelling in Aroa Lagoon Marine Reserve<br />

• On Rarotonga’s southwest sunshine coast | Sizzling sunsets<br />

• Extensive free activities - stand-up paddleboarding, snorkelling (all-tide), kayaking, tennis, gym,<br />

beachfront swimming pool, learn to dance the hula, make a lei, play the ukulele, husk a coconut<br />

• Kids & Teens Stay + Play FREE (to 16) | Free Moko’s Kids Club (4-11) | Free Teen Zone (12-16) | Creche<br />

• Captain Andy’s Beach Bar & Grill l Function + conference facilities<br />

• SpaPolynesia | Seventh Heaven All-Inclusive + Over The Moon Wedding Packages<br />

Slip off your watch, your shoes, your cares and immerse yourself in Paradise<br />

Aroa Beach + Lagoonarium | Rarotonga | COOK ISLANDS<br />

P (+682) 25800 | info@therarotongan.com<br />

www.TheRarotongan.com (Live Chat avail.)<br />

The travel bubble that opened between NZ and the<br />

Cook Islands on May 17th was more significant than<br />

the opening with Australia a month earlier. On May<br />

17th we opened to the Cook Islands and we saw a<br />

different kind of bubble open, a bubble for recreation<br />

not income generation.<br />

SANCTUARY RAROTONGA-ON THE BEACH-ADULTS-ONLY<br />

Where the<br />

ocean meets<br />

the sky...<br />

Sure, for the Cooks Islands themselves it is the<br />

tourism lifeline that they have been waiting for;<br />

a financial input that will put them back on track.<br />

But for New Zealanders, it gives us an option for a<br />

winter escape, a chance to travel again, relativity<br />

freely and in many ways, it is a hope for the future<br />

of travel.<br />

...here you have<br />

found Sanctuary<br />

Tourism makes for a considerable percentage of<br />

country’s yearly GDP, and you will all know how<br />

this loss of tourism has affected New Zealand. For<br />

example, pre-pandemic, China was our second<br />

largest-tourism market after Australia and the<br />

expenditure by 390,000 Chinese visitors in 2019<br />

hit a record high of $1.7 billion. The combined 3.9<br />

million overseas visitors who came to New Zealand<br />

in 2019 spent the equivalent of $47 million a day!<br />

But it is not only us, governments worldwide are<br />

also struggling to find creative ways to restore<br />

the inbound cash flow streams associated with<br />

international tourism and travel, and so now we are<br />

looking at a new word and new concept the ‘travel<br />

bubble’.<br />

Travel bubbles, also known as travel corridors,<br />

green corridors, and corona corridors, are<br />

essentially an exclusive partnership between<br />

two or more countries that have demonstrated<br />

considerable success in containing and combating<br />

the COVID-19 pandemic within their individual<br />

borders.<br />

Counties like us and Australia then go about reestablishing<br />

a mutual relationship by opening up<br />

the borders or section of the border to allow people<br />

to travel without the on-arrival quarantine period.<br />

Sometimes these corridors are one way traffic like<br />

Niue; you can fly from Niue to New Zealand and not<br />

have to isolate (that option if flying to Niue without<br />

isolation is not yet available).<br />

Stylish boutique resort for guests aged 16+. Set on secluded Aroa The Beach ‘option’ to be able simply to fly to Australia and<br />

lapped by Aroa Lagoon Although Marine Kiwis do Sanctuary, not have very Rarotonga’s big wings, they best snorkelling. the Cook Enjoy Islands is part of the subtle internal change<br />

complimentary stand-up themselves paddleboarding, made more than 3 kayaking, million overseas snorkelling & that fish happening feeding in the us all. It’s not to say they we<br />

trips 2019, which basically ground to a halt in March will all re-plan our New Zealand holiday, but it is a<br />

crystal clear blue waters, tennis, learn to dance the hula, make a lei, play the ukulele,<br />

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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 89


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The combined 3.9 million<br />

overseas visitors who came to<br />

New Zealand in 2019 spent the<br />

equivalent of $47 million a day!<br />

anywhere. But as more people get vaccinated, that<br />

vaccine passport will become mandatory on some<br />

airlines and border crossings, so a safety structure<br />

will emerge that will allow us to travel.<br />

There are several countries that have travel corridors<br />

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undoubtably a step in the right direction. The issue<br />

is however, as each country extends its bubble to<br />

a second or third or fourth destination, what impact<br />

will that have? Currently there is discussion between<br />

Singapore and Australia; would that, if formed, then<br />

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Kong and and Hong Kong has relationship with<br />

relationships with both Japan and Taiwan. It gets<br />

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Already these travel bubbles have proven to be a<br />

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vanuatu.travel<br />

3 DAYS ON MAEWO ISLAND<br />

VANUATU<br />

With dense jungle, towering peaks, and expansive, isolated<br />

beaches, the tiny island of Maewo, one of the most easterly<br />

islands of Vanuatu, is calling adventurers who love the<br />

romance of going off-grid. If you’re looking to switch off<br />

from the chaos of life back home, with little access to<br />

electricity and internet reception, Maewo makes for the<br />

perfect escape. Whether you want to explore life under the<br />

surface as you venture into underwater caves, or you’re<br />

ready for a challenge above sea level, hiking to some of the<br />

island’s many waterfalls, experience true Melanesian island<br />

hospitality and culture, Maewo has plenty of opportunities for<br />

adventure and culture.<br />

Don’t Miss:<br />

• The glistening Moon Cave<br />

• Maewo’s incredible waterfalls and cascades<br />

• Learning from the locals as they share their<br />

culture.<br />

How To Get There:<br />

Flights to Maewo are extremely limited, leaving from<br />

Port Vila only once or twice a week. The flight takes<br />

approximately one hour. You’ll fly into Maewo-Naone<br />

Airport at the north of the island. Check out the latest flight<br />

schedules at www.airvanuatu.com<br />

Maewo is a popular yachting destination, so if that’s possible<br />

for you, docking your boat is a unique way to approach the<br />

island.<br />

Useful Tips:<br />

Maewo has the highest rainfall of any island in Vanuatu,<br />

so be sure to pack for wet weather. This earns Maewo the<br />

‘waterfall island’ title, so be equally as prepared for deep<br />

clear pools and waterfall showers.<br />

Although Maewo is a long and thin island, getting from one<br />

side to the other isn’t as easy as it seems. Speak with local<br />

Maewo's Moon Cave<br />

guides to get advice on moving from one area to another.<br />

Life on Maewo is entirely off-grid. Public transport is near to<br />

non-existent, and don’t hedge your bets on posting a sneaky<br />

Instagram shot while you’re over there. Make sure you<br />

charge all your camera batteries before you go, and pack<br />

the kind of gear you would if you were camping: head torch,<br />

snacks, first aid kit, snorkel gear, mosquito coils, snacks.<br />

While transport can be elusive and expensive, walking along<br />

the west coast of Maewo is a much-loved activity. The whole<br />

island is only 56km long, and the paths along the west coast<br />

follow the coastal plains. If you have days to spare and love<br />

keeping those legs moving, consider walking the length of<br />

the island.<br />

Day 1:<br />

MORNING<br />

Your flight from Port Vila will take you to the northernmost<br />

end of Maewo, landing at the Naone-Maewo airport. A short<br />

drive away, you can make your way to Lua ete Salgola — a<br />

guesthouse in Kaiwo.<br />

AFTERNOON<br />

The guesthouse is an ideal place to set yourself up for<br />

exploring Maewo’s northern tip. Within easy walking<br />

distance of your accommodation are the Naone Cascades,<br />

also known as Big Wato, situated on the plateau above the<br />

airport. Your host can provide you with a guide to take you<br />

on the half-day excursion to see the cascades, where you’ll<br />

not only witness the power of the falls, but also experience<br />

a traditional welcome and plenty of local refreshments.<br />

Be sure to dance when a smiling face hauls you into the<br />

group! When you arrive back at your accommodation, enjoy<br />

a simple meal from your host and the company of friendly<br />

locals as they share stories and show you what life on<br />

Maewo is all about.<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 93


Make sure you immerse yourself in the culture of Maewo<br />

Day 2:<br />

MORNING<br />

Wake up nice and early because it’s time to go south.<br />

Getting to Asanvari requires a truck from Naone Airport to<br />

Narovorovo, followed by a speedboat from Narovorovo to<br />

Asanvari. Keep an eye out for the spectacular birds that<br />

call Maewo home – the island is very popular amongst bird<br />

watchers. While the best of the action is in the mountainous<br />

terrain in the island’s centre, those with a keen eye are sure<br />

to see some local feathered friends, no matter where you are<br />

on Maewo.<br />

On the way, you’ll have the opportunity to jump off the boat<br />

and snorkel into Maewo’s Moon Cave. With ancient cave<br />

writings, stalactites and a kastom story that explains why the<br />

moon sits where it does in Maewo, this stopover will be sure<br />

to delight.<br />

AFTERNOON<br />

Once you reach Asanvari, the Mule Ocean View Guesthouse<br />

is your best bet for setting yourself up for great adventures<br />

in the south. Grab some lunch to go before you head off on<br />

a midday adventure to Lavoa Cascade. About a 2-3 hour<br />

return trip, this is the perfect way to cap off your second day<br />

in Maewo as you relax, take in the beauty of the falls, feed<br />

the fish and enjoy a sunset looking out over Ambae Island.<br />

When you return to your accommodation for the night, enjoy<br />

a meal from the restaurant, or cook up a storm yourself with<br />

their fresh vegetables, and enjoy the sound of the ocean as<br />

you drift off to sleep. Remember, this island has very limited<br />

access to the modern technology you’re probably used<br />

to. Make sure you’ve got a head torch, a book and some<br />

mosquito coils with you!<br />

Day 3:<br />

MORNING<br />

Today’s all about immersing yourself in the culture of Maewo.<br />

Whether it’s weaving and dancing with the local mamas or<br />

witnessing the expert musicians making incredible music<br />

with bamboo instruments, there are plenty of opportunities to<br />

dive into Maewo’s culture, and walk away with unforgettable<br />

memories and new skills.<br />

Depending on flight times, consider the all-day Hanare<br />

Custom Village tour. Home to the first high chief of Maewo,<br />

this sacred land is now used to showcase the traditional<br />

practices of Maewo culture and honour their ancestors.<br />

This tour will give you a taste of the Maewo way of life, from<br />

cooking to dancing to drinking to storytelling. We assure you,<br />

this’ll be one of the most powerful cultural experiences you'll<br />

have the opportunity to witness.<br />

If you haven’t got the time to visit Hanare, start your morning<br />

off by canoe fishing, commonly known as Mule Game<br />

Fishing. During your fish, your guide will teach you traditional<br />

fishing techniques and show you where all the fish are to be<br />

found. Going out in a rigger canoe is a powerful experience<br />

and an insight into the self-sufficiency of Maewo’s locals.<br />

AFTERNOON<br />

To cool off before heading back to the airport, take some<br />

time to snorkel in the south of the island. The reefs here are<br />

unparalleled and a huge draw card for the yachters who<br />

flock to Maewo<br />

For More Information: www.vanuatu.travel<br />

The impressive Lavoa Cascades<br />

94//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>226</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 95


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