Jeweller - July 2021

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» Team player: the trait's high-performing staff all have in common
» Age of innovation: new tools and equipment that are shaping today's jewellery industry
» Personal history: exploring the development of personalised jewellery trends

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY JULY 2021

Team player

THE TRAITS HIGH-PERFORMING

STAFF ALL HAVE IN COMMON

Age of innovation

NEW TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT THAT ARE

SHAPING TODAY’S JEWELLERY INDUSTRY

Personal history

EXPLORING THE DEVELOPMENT OF

PERSONALISED JEWELLERY TRENDS

It all comes together at


JUST ONE

MONTH TO GO

UNTIL WE

MEET AGAIN!

INTERNATIONAL

J E W ELLERY & WATCH FAIR

jewelleryfair.com.au

AUGUST 28 – 30, 2021

ICC Sydney Exhibition Centre, Darling Harbour

Organised by

Est. 1990


Helping you shine

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& tomorrow.

worldshiner.com


A

L L O Y S

P R O M

I S E

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B E A T

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SAMS GROUP

AUSTRALIA

E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199


Personalised

BY PINK KIMBERLEY

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www.ncdia.com

Email: office@ncdia.com


JULY 2021

Contents

This Month

Industry Facets

11 Editor’s Desk

12 Upfront

16 News

24 Product Spotlight

32 Jewellers Showcase

26

28

31

52

54

10 YEARS AGO

Time Machine: July 2011

MY STORE

Hamilton & Inches

LEARN ABOUT GEMS

Apatite

MY BENCH

Jim George

SOAPBOX

John Chapman

34 PERSONALISED JEWELLERY FEATURE

Sentimental journey

4Today’s personalised jewellery trends may seem

transient – but each one has a rich and fascinating

history, writes ARABELLA RODEN.

Features

34

40

PERSONALISED JEWELLERY FEATURE

Up close and personal

TOOLS & EQUIPMENT FEATURE

Innovation information

40 TOOLS & EQUIPMENT FEATURE

New-school tools

Better Your Business

46

BUSINESS STRATEGY

RYAN ESTIS reveals the key traits to look for in the best employees.

4ARABELLA RODEN

discovers the tool and

equipment innovations

that are improving

efficiency and creativity

for jewellers and

watchmakers.

48

49

50

51

SELLING

Ask the tough questions to close the sale, advises GREG GLADMAN.

MANAGEMENT

JOSH STRUTT explains why staff training is crucial in today’s retail environment.

MARKETING & PR

‘Lost’ customers are a missed opportunity, writes BARRY URQUHART.

LOGGED ON

SIMON DELL explains the ins and outs of Instagram Shops in the first of two articles.

31 LEARN ABOUT

Apatite

4Often confused for other

gemstones – including Paraìba

tourmaline – mysterious apatite

continues to intrigue.

FRONT COVER Part of the Pallion

group of companies, Palloys offers

the full spectrum of jewellery

manufacturing services, from CAD to

casting, refining, fabricated metals,

diamonds and more. It all comes

together at Palloys.

July 2021 | 9


Editor’s Desk

Life, death, and resurrection:

Baselworld survives an execution

ARABELLA RODEN explores the reasons for Baselworld’s unexpected return

– and why it wasn’t so unexpected after all.

A little over a year since its cancellation,

the most venerable of luxury trade shows,

Baselworld, is back from the ‘dead’.

As chronicled by Jeweller, the iconic fair

had been in decline for several years before

COVID-19 seemingly hammered the final nail

into the coffin.

Costs rose, visitor numbers waned,

exhibitors complained – and all were met

with a perceived indifference from upper

management and organiser MCH Group.

A turning point came in 2018 when major

exhibitor Swatch Group withdrew all its

brands from the show. A spate of senior

executives resigned that same year,

including MCH Group CEO René Kamm and

Baselworld managing director Sylvie Ritter.

Then, at perhaps the worst time – while new

management scrambled to rework the show

– a global pandemic broke.

The inevitable cancellation of the 2020 show

followed, before confusion over refunds led

to a further exodus of support. Even anchor

brands Rolex and Patek Philippe voted with

their feet, and it seemed all was lost.

MCH Group decided that new, drastic

measures were required to turn the tide;

in mid-2020, it changed the name of the

100-year-old show and rebranded it as

HourUniverse, along with promises of a new

digital platform and pricing structure.

Unfortunately, with the pandemic still

raging in the early months of 2021, the first

HourUniverse never had a chance. It was

cancelled before it could even make its mark.

Still, the winds of change had not finished

blowing. In a surprising move, on June 23,

the show’s managing director Michel Loris-

Melikoff wrote three words few expected to

read: “Baselworld is back.”

But before we pop the champagne corks or

crack open the kirsch, we should evaluate

what the reversed rebranding means for the

show, and the watch and jewellery industry.

Out with the new?

At second glance, the news that Baselworld

will return – first as an August-September

pop-up, and then in 2022 as a full physical

show – is less surprising than it first appears.

Speaking to Jeweller, Loris-Melikoff

explained the decision: “Our initial thinking

was to rebrand the show and create

something totally new.

“During the pandemic, we intensified

our communications with the brands

and stakeholders to identify their wishes

and needs, and were both delighted and

surprised with the confirmation of the strong

attachment to the Baselworld brand.”

As it turns out, 104 years of history is actually

worth something!

It took decades to establish the show, and

even its most fervent critics would agree that

the Baselworld name remains synonymous

with luxury. So, why rebrand it in the first

place, especially to the less memorable

‘HourUniverse’?

The chorus of disappointment during

Baselworld’s fall from grace was so

deafening that it was easy to forget what

made the show special.

For Baselworld, its most priceless assets

were the show’s atmosphere and the

business connections made; both of which

were eroded by dissatisfaction with costs and

management missteps.

Many of the most important deals and

relationships in the watch and jewellery

industry were forged in the restaurants and

cafés of that modest Swiss city.

Ironically, ‘time’ is the ultimate measure of

a brand. A brand deemed valuable by its

customers will become an institution over

time, yet even the likes of Chanel, Louis

Vuitton and Bulgari must transform to

resonate with an ever-changing audience.

Baselworld’s mistake was to jettison an

institution rather than adapt and transform it.

Not only did MCH Group come to realise that

discarding a name does not make a problem

go away; instead, it discovered the problem

was never the name in the first place!

In the watch, jewellery, and gemstone

It took time to

realise that the

true needs of

Baselworld’s

exhibitors

and visitors

were not to

completely

sever the ties

of the past...

but to return

to the values

that made the

former glory

days so glorious

industries, memories tend to be longer than

most; heritage, tradition, and legacy are an

integral part of many businesses, and count

for more than they do in, say, the tech sector.

While jewellery lasts forever, the latest

digital device is lucky to last 12 months.

It took time to realise that the true needs

of Baselworld’s exhibitors and visitors were

not to completely sever the ties of the past,

and bury the show for good, but to return to

the values that made the former glory days

so glorious – while adapting the show for

today’s business environment.

Saving the best

The challenge for businesses, particularly

in times of crisis, is identifying which

qualities consumers and clients genuinely

value about a product or service. Then, one

must invest resources into improving and

promoting those qualities.

And like finding a new customer, building a

brand from scratch is far more resourceintensive

than retaining an existing one.

With its ignominious ‘end’, the flaws in the

Baselworld model were made abundantly

clear – and all-too-publicly articulated.

But the COVID-19 pandemic, as Loris-

Melikoff attested, also shone a light on

what exhibitors valued most about it and

emphasised the strong connection they

felt after years of attending the show, while

clarifying what any new iteration needed to

offer from a business perspective.

History is the greatest teacher, if its

lessons are heeded and applied; and in an

encouraging sign, Baselworld management

appears to be focused on rebuilding the

convivial atmosphere, reducing costs,

fostering business relationships, and

investing in the neglected jewellery sector.

Still, the question remains: can Baselworld

– even a revitalised, renewed, and refocused

one – truly be brought back from the dead?

Time will tell.

Arabella Roden

Editor

July 2021 | 11


Upfront

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HISTORIC JEWELLERY

The Hutton-Mdivani

Jade Necklace

4US heiress Barbara Hutton – nicknamed

‘Poor Little Rich Girl’ due to her lavish

yet tragic life – boasted an extensive

jewellery collection. Amongst her pieces

was a necklace which became the

most expensive jadeite jewellery ever

auctioned when it was sold by Sotheby’s

in 2014 for HKD214 million ($AU36.3

million). Gifted to her by her father upon

her first marriage, to Alexis Mdivani, it is

now owned by the Cartier Collection and

crafted from 27 extraordinarily large jadeite

beads, with a clasp of 18-carat gold set with rubies

and diamonds.

831,132+ POSTS

Campaign Watch

4Bulgari has released the star-studded

campaign for its latest watch and

jewellery collection, Bulgari Magnifica,

inspired by one of the Italian jewellery

house’s 1980s campaigns. The famous

faces modelling the collection include

actress Zendaya (above), singer Lalisa

Manoban from K-pop group Blackpink,

Italian model Vittoria Ceretti, and US

model Lily Aldridge.

4A recent report published in

UK newspaper The Sunday Times

noted a recent surge in sales of

empty designer jewellery and

watch boxes, which was attributed

to social media. Analysis of eBay

sales data indicated Rolex boxes

were the most expensive with

an average list price of £160

($AU293), followed by TAG Heuer,

Breitling and Omega, while a

Money.co.uk study found Tiffany

& Co.’s blue boxes had an average

list price of £51 ($AU93).

Sticky beak

4A pet parrot has been

hospitalised in Thailand after

swallowing 21 diamonds, which

it had plucked from a necklace

in its owner’s jewellery box. The

parakeet, Frosty, required a twohour

operation to remove the

stones from its stomach. “This

kind of bird is attracted to things

that glitter,” said vet Dr Kuntita

Paveenasakorn, adding that Frosty

is likely to make a full recovery.

This year Shopify

made Shop Pay

compatible with

Facebook and

Instagram Shops,

and Google.

Digital Brainwave

4Ecommerce giant Shopify is expanding

its Payment Platform to allow third-party

development, giving sellers the ability to

offer flexible payment options to customers,

beyond existing services like its own Shop

Pay instalment system, PayPal, or Stripe.

Kaz Nejatian, vice-president of product

and merchant services at Shopify, said,

“We care more about giving our merchants

access to the critical tools they need than

we do about competition.”

Top Product

4Originally created in 1973, the

Baume & Mercier Riviera has been

given a new lease on life in 2021. The

latest model features a vibrant green

face, inspired by the Mediterranean

coast, with a new interchangeability

system and an assortment of colour

straps. Distributed by Duraflex

Group Australia.

Watery save

4A freediver has revealed how he

recovered a lost engagement ring

from the UK’s largest lake. Angus

Hosking received an urgent call

from a hotel on the shore of Lake

Windermere, informing him that a

newly-engaged guest’s diamond ring

had slipped off her finger while sitting

on a jetty. “Fortunately we had a rough

idea of where it was,” Hosking, who

swam with a metal detector, said. “If

it had been in the middle of the lake it

wouldn’t have been like a needle in a

haystack, but a needle in the world!”

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY

Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com

Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Editor Arabella Roden arabella.roden@jewellermagazine.com • Production Assistant Lauren McKinnon art@befindanmedia.com

Digital Co-ordinator Trish Bucheli-Preece trish@jewellermagazine.com • Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com

Copyright All material appearing in Jeweller is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd

strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information

believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to

the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities

arising from the published material.


To schedule an appointment, please contact us:

L. J. WeST DIamonDS Inc. | 589 5th ave, Suite 1102 | new York, nY 10017, U.S.a. | T +1 212 997 0940

L. J. WeST aU PTY LTD | Level 9, 225 St Georges Terrace | Perth, Wa 6000, australia | T +61 40 997 6981


Info@LJWestDiamonds.com | www.LJWestDiamonds.com | www.ScottWestDiamonds.com


News In Brief

Glen Pocklington joins

Nationwide

4 Glen Pocklington has been appointed

general manager of the Nationwide

Jewellers buying group. “With Glen on board

we will have the capacity to assist even more

members with retail business analysis,

advice, and recommended strategies,”

Nationwide said in a statement. Pocklington

holds a commerce degree and has extensive

prior experience. He will be at the IJWF in

Sydney to meet members.

Cryptocurrency bids

accepted for diamond

4 Auction house Sotheby’s has accepted

Bitcoin and Ethereum bids in its auction

of a 101.38-carat diamond. Named

‘The Key 10138’, the stone is the “first

important diamond in the world to be

auctioned with cryptocurrency as an

accepted method of payment,” according

to Sotheby’s.Its name represents “the

unlocking of a new era in commerce and

technology”.

Australian jewellery retailer joins

COVID-19 class action lawsuit

Damien Cody, director of Cody Opal Australia, had

a business interruption insurance claim denied by

Lloyds. Image credit: ABC News/Kyle Harley

A number of Australian small business owners

who have been denied insurance payouts for

losses sustained during the COVID-19 pandemic

have joined class-action lawsuits against several

industry giants, including Australian insurance

company QBE and London-based Lloyds.

The National Opal Collection (NOC) – the retail

arm of Cody Opal Australia – had taken out a

business interruption policy underwritten by AXA

and Lloyds prior to the pandemic. It has now

joined the Lloyds class action.

As previously reported by Jeweller, the NOC’s

business interruption policy included a clause

providing coverage in the event of an “outbreak

of a notifiable human infectious or contagious

disease occurring within a 20 kilometre radius of

the [premises]”.

However, a claim against the policy was rejected

in May 2020, with the insurer asserting that

the business’ losses – which Cody estimates

total more than $3 million – would need to

have occurred as a consequence of COVID-19

cases within 20km of the premises, rather than

“overarching factors resulting from the COVID-19

pandemic as a whole”.

The ABC reports that the QBE and Lloyds class

actions are the first in Australia regarding

pandemic insurance payouts.

Damien Cody, director Cody Opal Australia,

told the ABC, “We’re determined to take them

on. Maybe the insurers were not expecting a

worldwide pandemic. But nonetheless we’ve

been paying a lot of money for many years

taking out business interruption insurance and

the pandemic did hit.

“It’s been horribly exhausting. We’ve had 20 staff

we had to stand down.”

An estimated 25,000 policyholders are eligible to

join the QBE suit, approximately 100 businesses

in Australia are believed to be covered by Lloyds’

specialist policy.

Leading Edge welcomes

Debbie Hudson

4 As part of its new consolidation

strategy, Leading Edge Group has

appointed Debbie Hudson to the role

of Jewellery Category Manager. Hudson

has 30 years of retail experience in

Australia and New Zealand, including

previous roles with Goldmark, Angus

& Coote, and Pandora, and joins Claire

Packett, Head of Cateogry – Jewellery, at

the buying group.

Swiss watch brand to enter Australian

market with new supplier

Delma, told Jeweller, “Delma targets ladies and

gentlemen with an active lifestyle who value

great craftsmanship and are willing to pay for

outstanding quality. They seek out a watch as a

companion on their adventures.”

The decision to expand into the Australian market

was prompted by the COVID-19 pandemic, which

led the business to consider new possibilities.

Opal supplier awarded

Order of Australia

4 Karen Lindley, a semi-retired

gemmologist and opal and diamond

supplier based in Sydney, was awarded

the Order of Australia in the 2021

Queen’s Birthday Honours List for

‘significant service to social welfare

initiatives, and to the jewellery industry’.

Lindley has spent more than two decades

volunteering with survivors of sexual

assault and child abuse, as well as

fundraising for multiple charities.

The Delma Blue Shark III Azores, one of the brand’s

latest performance dive watches.

Swiss watch manufacturer Delma has inked a

distribution deal with Australian supplier Keda as it

prepares to enter the local market.

The independent, family-owned brand is bestknown

for its specialist dive and sports watches,

with a focus on high-quality performance and

design.

Andreas Leibundgut, head of marketing,

“Despite the difficult times, we have seen strong

demand and interest in Delma’s performance

timepieces has risen steadily across markets,”

Leibundgut explained.

In terms of marketing support, Mark Watson,

managing director Keda, said the focus would

be on increasing consumer awareness of the

brand through campaigns with retailers, with

a mix of social media and digital marketing,

as well as traditional media, including an

upcoming radio campaign.

As an introductory offer to retailers, Keda is

offering Delma at a competitive entry point

with 50 per cent margin.

16 | July 2021


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News

Court rules against

diamond company’s

legal claim

Popular Spanish jewellery brand to enter

Australian market with new distributor

It was previously only available to Australian

consumers via its online store.

Caroline Roper-Kelly, operations manager,

Heart & Grace, said, “Effortless elegance

and timeless designs create the PDPaola

universe, with unique trend-setting jewellery

and an aspirational brand identity.

“With 1.6 million social media followers,

PDPaola continues to grow.”

A US court has found in favour of Fenix Diamonds in an

ongoing legal battle over lab-grown diamond patents.

A New York court has ruled in favour of lab-created

diamond supplier Fenix Diamonds and manufacturer

Nouveau Diamonds, rejecting a competitor’s claim

that the companies infringed patented diamond

creation techniques.

Fenix and Nouveau were part of a larger suit filed

last year by WD Lab Grown Diamonds and the

Carnegie Institution of Washington, which alleged six

competitors had infringed two of Carnegie’s patents.

The first patent covers the microwave-plasma

chemical vapor deposition (CVD) diamond-growing

process, and the second relates to the high-pressure,

high-temperature (HPHT) process – also called

annealing – that improves a lab-grown diamond’s

colour and clarity.

PDPaola’s jewellery collections include on-trend

zodiac-themed designs set with colour gemstones.

Watch supplier Heart & Grace has expanded

into jewellery, commencing distribution of

Spanish brand PDPaola.

Founded in Barcelona, Spain, in 2014 by

siblings Paola and Humbert Sasplugas, the

brand has built up a strong online following

and an extensive retailer network throughout

Europe, the US, and Asia.

Heart & Grace made the decision to distribute

PDPaola due to its “unique and on-trend

designs, and the general essence of the

brand,” Roper-Kelly explained.

She added, “The brand features on-trend

designs such as zodiac [symbols] and

personalisation of letters, but with a unique

twist of natural and semi-precious stones and

cubic zirconia, at affordable prices.”

Given the strength of the brand’s striking

marketing photography, Heart & Grace will

assist retailers in promoting PDPaola with

“a wealth of beautiful visuals and display

materials to showcase the gorgeous jewellery

designs,” Roper-Kelly said.

Supplier introduces European jewellery collection

MORE BREAKING NEWS

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM

WD and Carnegie dropped the claim against ALTR

and its parent company RA Riam and settled with

Pure Grown Diamonds and IIa Technologies last year,

leaving Fenix – which supplies lab-created diamonds

to Michael Hill International – and Nouveau as the

last remaining defendants in the case.

On 16 June 2021, Judge Jed S. Rakoff of the US

District Court for the Southern District of New York

upheld Fenix’s motion for a summary judgment,

noting “readily apparent” differences between

Nouveau’s diamond manufacturing and the first

Carnegie patent, including the temperatures used.

WD and Carnegie withdrew the second infringement

claim, with Fenix filing a counterclaim to have the

patent invalidated. Rakoff’s judgment permitted the

counterclaim to proceed to trial.

Fenix said in a statement that its “success in the

lawsuit reflects our devotion to the market, to

our products, and, especially, to our customers.

Their support over the past 18 months has been

incredible.”

WD had, at the time of publication, declined to

comment on the ruling.

RJ Scanlan & Co. has expanded its

fine jewellery offering, introducing the

full range of The Lux Collection to the

Australian market.

Manufactured in Germany, The Lux

Collection is crafted with gold, diamonds,

colour gemstones, and pearls, with each

piece made-to-order and an emphasis on

environmental sustainability.

Chris Scanlan, director RJ Scanlan &

Co., told Jeweller, “RJ Scanlan & Co.

has distributed this line of jewellery on

a small scale for 20 years, and when the

manufacturer wanted a distributor to

present the entire collection, we accepted.

“Due to COVID-19 travel restrictions,

the Australian jewellery market has

been deprived of opportunities to see

international collections of this quality.”

RJ Scanlan & Co. quietly introduced The

Lux Collection to a limited number of

retailers in late 2020, with Scanlan noting

that the range had seen a very positive

response so far.

“The Lux Collection is very diverse – this

season’s range has 750 pieces with

a wide range of price points – so the

target market covers all budgets with an

emphasis on European style and quality,”

he explained.

He added that the manufacturer has been

operating for more than 70 years and is

a member of the Responsible Jewellery

Council, a standards and certification

body based in the UK that audits

members against a Code of Practices for

responsible supply chains.

“We are seeing a shift in consumer buying

habits – people are turning away from

mass-produced products and want to

know where their products are being

made, and the origins of the materials.

Sustainability and responsibility are

becoming requirements,” Scanlan said.

The Lux Collection is made to order, with

a four-to-five week lead time.

18 | July 2021


Positive trend for jewellery industry

continues

Jewellery sales in dollars continued to rise in June, driven by strong demand for

diamond-set pieces, data from Retail Edge Consultants show.

The “exciting” jewellery sales data

released in a new report could auger

well for the upcoming International

Jewellery & Watch Fair in Sydney.

Retail Edge Consultants has issued its

June report, revealing “another very

strong result”.

“The report noted that the results

were driven by an increase in the

average inventory sale price – that

is, sales excluding repairs – of 17 per

cent compared with June 2020”

A comparison of overall sales dollars

recorded a significant increase – 15

per cent – over June 2020. More

importantly, it was a 17 per cent rise

compared with June 2019, pre-COVID.

The report noted that the results were

driven by an increase in the average

inventory sale price – that is, sales

excluding repairs – of 17 per cent

compared with June 2020, though the

number of units sold fell.

Michael Dyer, sales manager at

Retail Edge, posited that this could

reflect a wider consumer trend

toward purchasing more ‘lasting’

products due to the pandemic –

preferring something enduring, and

therefore better value, over cheaper,

transient products.

Further analysis of the ‘sales dollar’

data compared to June 2020 revealed:

• Diamond-set precious metal

jewellery increased by 35 per cent

• Colour gemstone-set precious

metal jewellery increased by

24 per cent

• Precious metal jewellery without

gemstones or diamonds increased

22 per cent

• Silver and alternative metal

jewellery also rose 22 per cent

In addition, “special orders” (custommade

jewellery) was on the increase

with more new orders than completed

orders. “That means some positive

cashflow in the month ahead, as well

as customer visitations to collect the

orders,” Dyer explained.

He added some advice for retailers:

“The start of a new financial year is an

ideal time to generate a Comparative

Department report to see if there is

a shift in the type of product category

that customers see as your business’s

strong point.

“Retailers who don’t familiarise

themselves with that, and adjust their

buying and marketing, could risk

drifting away from the main growth

path. Retailers should ask, is there

too much capital tied up in a product

category that is losing consumer

relevance?”

The latest June data reflects a positive

trend as show in the April and March

data. Sales in dollars for April 2021

increased 252 per cent compared

with last year and 40 per cent when

compared with April 2019; while the

March 2021 results were 63 per cent

higher than the same month in 2020

and 37 per cent higher than 2019.


TOK

A spokesperson for Pandora

had no comment when approached

by Jeweller.

communities, largely in developing

nations.

- Est. 1974 -

companies generate approximately

$US16 billion annually for local

Diamond Producers Association,

the top-seven diamond producing

Custom-made fine jewellery

According to a 2019 report

commissioned by the NDC’s

predecessor organisation, the

The New York Times reports that

natural diamonds were set in

approximately 50,000 – or a fraction

of 1 per cent – of the 85 million

pieces produced by Pandora in 2020.

can have unintended but substantial

consequences on communities in

developing nations.”

diamonds, particularly given the

inconsequential amount of diamonds

Pandora features in its collections,

ethical and the impetus behind

Pandora’s move to lab-grown

announcement implying the natural

diamond industry is both less

They asserted, “The misleading

narrative created by the Pandora

In response, the NDC, CIBJO, WDC,

IJC, and IDMA pointed out that

Pandora’s product range has not

traditionally used diamonds.

diamonds are “expected to be made

using 100 per cent renewable energy”

by 2022 and confirmed it would no

longer use natural mined diamonds

across any of its product lines.

Pandora noted that the lab-created

deposition method and powered by 60

per cent renewable energy sources,

with the remaining 40 per cent

subject to carbon-offsetting.

manufactured by a third-party

supplier using the chemical vapour

Pandora Brilliance products are

set with lab-created diamonds

as they are of enduring beauty

and stand as a testament to

[Pandora’s] ongoing and ambitious

sustainability agenda.”

Proudly 100% Australian owned &

operated family business

- CAD design

- CAM printing

- Casting

- Finishing

- Stone sourcing

- Valuations

In the announcement, Alexander

Lacik, CEO Pandora, said that labcreated

diamonds are “as much

a symbol of innovation and progress

In a joint statement, the Natural

Diamond Council (NDC), CIBJO,

the World Diamond Council (WDC),

the Responsible Jewellery Council

(IJC), and the International Diamond

Manufacturers Association (IDMA)

objected to the messaging in

Pandora’s announcement of its

new lab-created diamond range,

Pandora Brilliance.

The groups claim it promotes the

“false and misleading narrative”

that lab-created diamonds are “an

ethical choice” when compared with

natural diamonds.

Several diamond and jewellery

industry associations have demanded

Pandora Jewelry retract elements of

a recent statement regarding

its decision to stop stocking

natural diamonds.

A statement announcing the new Pandora Brilliance lab-created diamond range has

been criticised as “misleading” by a range of diamond and jewellery associations.

Image credit: Pandora

CALL: 1300 101 735

EMAIL: info@tokbrothers.com.au

VISIT:

The Dymocks Building

Level 1 Suite 10

428 George Street

Sydney NSW 2000

Natural diamond organisations

protest Pandora statement

Baselworld resurrected, HourUniverse

defunct; new dates confirmed

Following its relaunch as HourUniverse, organisers have confirmed Baselworld will

revert to its former name and return with a pop-up event in Geneva later this year.

Organiser MCH Group has

confirmed its watch, jewellery and

gemstone show has reverted to

the Baselworld name, following

its rebranding and relaunch as

HourUniverse last year.

Once one of the world’s premier

luxury trade fairs, Baselworld

had a well-publicised decline in

recent years, with both exhibitors

and visitor numbers falling

precipitously amid management

mishaps and rising costs.

With the 2020 event cancelled due to

the COVID-19 pandemic, organisers

made the decision to close and

relaunch the show as HourUniverse,

adding a year-round digital platform

to the annual physical event.

However, the inaugural

HourUniverse show was postponed

in early 2021 as the virus continued

to impact global travel. On 23

June 2021, Michel Loris-Melikoff,

managing director HourUniverse,

announced via LinkedIn, “Baselworld

is back,” confirming new dates:

• Baselworld Pop-Up in Geneva:

30 August–4 September 2021,

coinciding with Geneva Watch

Days

• Baselworld physical show: 31

March–4 April 2022, coinciding

with Watches & Wonders

Geneva (30 March–5 April 2022)

Speaking to Jeweller, Loris-Melikoff

explained, “During the pandemic

we intensified our communications

with the brands and stakeholders to

identify their wishes and needs, and

were both delighted and surprised

with the confirmation of the strong

attachment to the Baselworld brand.

“With this knowledge, the new

management reviewed the

situation and decided instead to

capitalise on the unique heritage

of the show and create a new

Baselworld,” he explained.

A statement on the revamped

Baselworld website – to which the

defunct HourUniverse.com website

now directs – describes the new

iteration of Baselworld as “very

different”, prioritising its functionality

as a “B2B platform in the midrange

luxury segment” focused

on “smaller watches and jewellery

manufacturers and gemstone

traders”.

In addition to physical events, a

Baselworld digital platform – a key

component from the HourUniverse

relaunch – will be introduced in the

Northern Hemisphere autumn.

“Everyone will meet on our platform.

The brands, the manufacturers, the

retailers, the fans and the media,”

Loris-Melikoff told Jeweller, adding,

“We will offer attractive conditions

and prices for all brands that want to

benefit from this unique platform.”

At the time of publication, no further

details on Baselworld exhibitors

were available.


New chairman for Michael Hill

International, Emma Hill stands aside

According to an MHI announcement to the

Australian Securities Exchange (ASX), Fyfe – an

MHI board member for more than seven years

– is credited with driving an historic turnaround

at Air New Zealand. He has also been the CEO

and subsequently chair of Icebreaker, an apparel

business, and is currently a director of Air Canada.

Emma Hill, daughter of Sir Michael Hill, is stepping

down as chair of the company’s board.

The chair of Michael Hill International (MHI)’s board

of directors, Emma Hill, is set to step down today

handing the reins to Rob Fyfe, former CEO of Air

New Zealand.

Hill will remain as non-executive director, along

with her father Sir Michael Hill. In addition, Daniel

Bracken, the company’s CEO, is to join the MHI

board as managing director effective 28 June 2021.

“Rob is an outstanding strategic and transformative

leader with a track record of maximising

shareholder value. The time is right for this

transition. The company has never been in a

healthier position,” Emma Hill said.

“Our CEO Daniel is delivering exceptional results

across our transformation program. He has

elevated customer experience and continues to

strengthen our market position. I’m pleased Daniel

will join the board as managing director,” she added.

The board reshuffle follows MHI’s April

announcement that same-store sales for the third

quarter of FY21 had increased by 16.4 per cent. Net

profit for the December half-year of $38.9 million

represented an 82 per cent increase.

Alex and Ani troubles continue: company

files for bankruptcy

Alexi and Ani, the high-profile US jewellery brand,

has filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection.

The company, which has been plagued by

controversy for many years, hopes to be able to sell

most of its assets.

Chapter 11 bankruptcy in the US is roughly

equivalent to voluntary administration in Australia,

and gives a company relief from its obligations so it

can continue to operate while it restructures.

Alex and Ani had a short stint in Australia,

launching in December 2015 under the Karin

Adcock-owned House of Brands (HOB) and gaining

around 120 stockists as well as opening a ‘concept’

store in Melbourne.

However, by October 2017, HOB declared that

Australian distribution would cease, which

occurred the following year.

In August 2019 Alex and Ani became embroiled in

a legal stoush with Bank of America, claiming the

lender misclassified a payment in order to push

the company to default on a $US170 million loan.

Jeweller reported at the time, “Alex and Ani’s cash

flow has been severely disrupted; it has lost access

to its credit line and has close to $US16 million

($AU23 million) in outstanding payments on its

books. It was also unable to purchase seasonal

inventory, which, it has alleged, lead to a steep

decline in sales.”

A new debt structure was soon finalised,

which called for founder and CEO Carolyn

Rafaelian to step down and divest her controlling

interest in the business.

Alex and Ani’s majority stakeholder, investment

firm Lion Capital, installed the business’ chief

restructuring officer Bob Trabucco –a former

Signet Jewelers executive – as the new CEO.

According to its bankruptcy filing, Alex and

Ani’s wholesale business has fallen from 59 per

cent of revenue to only 19 per cent. Its website is

now its biggest traffic driver, accounting for 45 per

cent of revenue.

The filing listed assets and liabilities of

$US100 million to $US500 million each; Trabucco

said the company is currently saddled with

$US127.4 million in debt obligations, as well as

$29.1 million in unsecured trade debts, many to

shopping centre owners.


News In Brief

‘Fool’s gold’ found to

contain real gold

4 Pyrite – often called ‘fool’s gold’

due to its ability to deceive inexperienced

prospectors – has been found to

contain traces of real gold. An

Australian-Chinese research team found

that gold ‘nanoparticles’ can be caught

up in the crystal lattice of pyrite. Gold

and pyrite form under similar conditions

and pyrite is often used as an indicator for

gold deposits.

Diamond group re-signs

celebrity spokesperson

4 Actress Ana de Armas will return

as the celebrity ‘face’ of the Natural

Diamond Council for a second year.

The star, who is set to appear in the

next James Bond film No Time To Die

in October 2021, has shot a marketing

campaign modelling an 11-piece

collection from jewellery designer

Malyia McNaughton, which will be made

available to US retailers.

Pre-owned watch

market heats up

4 The pre-owned watch market has

seen continued consolidation and

expansion in recent months. Germanbased

Watchmaster has acquired

France’s Montres Modernes et de

Collection, while Switzerland’s

Chronext is reportedly planning an

initial public offering in the Northern

Hemisphere autumn, with a projected

valuation of €1 billion.

New survey reveals

consumer insights

4 A comprehensive consumer study

conducted by US-based jewellery,

diamond and watch supplier group The

Plumb Club, in conjunction with Paola

Deluca, The Futurist and Qualtrics, has

released its findings on the drivers

of jewellery purchasing. One-third of

the survey’s 1,049 participants named

retailer websites as the top influence,

with family and friends a close second

and social media advertising third.

India introduces mandatory jewellery

hallmarking; implications for Australia

Legislation to make hallmarking of jewellery

compulsory in India came into effect on 16 June 2021.

After years of delays, the Indian government has

introduced mandatory gold and silver jewellery

hallmarking across more than 250 districts,

including major cities such as Mumbai.

Overseen by the Bureau of Indian Standards

(BIS) – a governmental agency that is part of

the Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Food & Public

Distribution – the hallmarking policy applies to

jewellers and jewellery retailers with an annual

turnover of INR4 million ($AU71,480).

Jewellery intended for international or domestic

‘business-to-business’ exhibitions is exempt.

Piyush Goyal, India’s Minister of Commerce and

Industry and Minister of Consumer Affairs, said,

“Continuing our government’s endeavour for

better protection and satisfaction of customers,

mandatory hallmarking in 256 districts will be

implemented... This will help develop India as a

leading global gold market centre.”

India is the world’s largest consumer of gold, and

its demand for gold jewellery rose to 102.5 tonnes

in the first quarter of 2021, according to figures

from the World Gold Council.

The BIS first introduced hallmarking standards

in 2000, with the country’s Cabinet endorsing

compulsory hallmarking in 2012, however

implementation of the legislation was

consistently delayed.

A 2015 report published by the World Gold

Council estimated that Indian gold exports

could increase five-fold if the nation’s

hallmarking policy was strengthened.

Five marks are required: the BIS logo, the

metal fineness, the mark of the AHC at which

the metal was tested, the jeweller’s individual

maker’s mark, and a letter symbol denoting the

year the piece was made.

Consumers can have jewellery tested at any

of India’s more than 900 Assay & Hallmarking

Centres; jewellers may have their BIS licence

cancelled or suspended if the purity is found to be

invalid – known as ‘under-carating’ – and may be

required to compensate the consumer.

The Indian policy bears many similarities to the

UK’s hallmarking system, which has been in place

in some form for more than 600 years.

The current UK system is regulated by the

Hallmarking Act 1973, which makes it compulsory

for one of four Assay Offices – overseen by the UK

government’s British Hallmarking Council – to

mark any item sold in the UK, whether locally

manufactured or imported, that is made from

gold, silver, platinum or palladium.

Notably, Australia does not have a governmentregulated

hallmarking system. Chris Sherwin,

president of the Gold & Silversmith Guild

of Australia (GSGA), told Jeweller this has

implications for consumer protection.

“In Australia, we are self-regulating – we stamp

our own work – unlike in the UK where the four

Assay Offices hold all the marks. We do not have

Assay Offices here,” he explained.

In an attempt to instill consumer confidence, the

GSGA was independently established by members

of the jewellery industry in 1988 and is affiliated

with the Goldsmiths Company, which operates the

London Assay Office.

Consequently, GSGA members – who number

approximately 200 – are required to use four

marks, as in the UK system: a maker’s mark,

fineness mark, the kangaroo’s head mark of the

GSGA, and a letter date mark, which matches that

of the London Assay Office.

Rather than routine testing, as in an Assay Office,

the GSGA operates on a complaints basis; GSGA

members found to have misapplied marks are

expelled from the Guild and can face penalties

under Australian Consumer Law.

However, the vast majority of Australian jewellers

and jewellery retailers are not Guild members.

Sherwin called India’s introduction of compulsory

marking “a wake-up call for manufacturers in

Australia”. “India is clearly looking to not only

protect their own consumers, but probably

increase exports to the world. It was 33 years ago

that the founders of the Guild were trying to do the

same thing in Australia,” Sherwin observed.

“Dare I say it, but I think Australian jewellers,

generally speaking, are not seeing the bigger

picture. Australia has an unregulated jewellery

industry, and without a government mandate or

official recognition and support... it does leave us

vulnerable to the flooding of imports.”

In the absence of Assay Offices and legislation,

Sherwin recommended Australian jewellers

consider GSGA membership, calling it “a great

system – one that is the first step towards any

attempt that might mandate change.”

22 | July 2021


Two times lucky: 1,000-carat diamonds discovered

Lynette Armstrong, managing director Debswana,

offered some background about the 1,098-carat

discovery: “With the recent introduction of a

modern, state-of-the-art large diamond pilot plant,

I have every hope that we will be able to recover

more large diamonds.

“This, by all standards, is a great metallurgical

achievement; to recover a diamond of this size

intact through our conventional ore processing

plant.”.

Mined by Debswana, a joint venture between De Beers Group and the Botswanan government, this 1,098-carat

stone is one of two massive stones unearthed in Botswana in recent weeks. Image credit: Debswana

The international diamond industry is abuzz

following the discovery of two large stones weighing

more than 1,000 carats, only weeks apart.

A high-quality diamond weighing 1,098.30-carats

was unearthed in early June at the Jwaneng Mine in

Botswana, which is owned by Debswana – a mining

joint venture between the Botswanan government

and De Beers Group.

A week later, Lucara Diamond then went ‘one

better’ by unearthing a 1,174.76-carat rough at

its Karowe Mine, also in Botswana. Lucara is a

Canadian company with mining and exploration

licenses in the African nation.

The Karowe site – which is 100 per cent owned by

Lucara – is said to be one of the world’s foremost

producers of Type IIA diamonds over 10 carats.

Eira Thomas, president and CEO Lucara, said,

“Lucara is delighted to be reporting another historic

diamond recovery and its third diamond over 1,000

carats – a world record for Karowe.”

Diamonds were first discovered in Botswana in

1967. According to Armstrong, the 1,098-carat

diamond – which measures in at 73 mm long, 52

mm wide and 27 mm thick – is the largest gemquality

diamond found in Debswana’s mines in the

company’s more-than-50-year history.

On the other hand, the Lucara diamond measures

77 mm long, 55 mm wide and 33 mm thick. It is a

lower-quality rough that needs to be split before

being processed further, similar to the 1,758-carat

Sewelô diamond Lucara unearthed in 2019.

The Debswana diamond could be Africa’s

third-largest gem-quality diamond, behind the

3,106-carat Cullinan and 1,109-carat Lesedi La

Rona, which was unearthed by Lucara in 2015.

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On The Market

1 2

3

4

5

JULY

Product

Spotlight

Jeweller’s Jeweller’s special special snapshot

of snapshot new and of bestselling the latest

watches personalised to hit the jewellery. market.

6 7

8

1 PDPAOLA REFLEX ACTIVE | Heart | & Heart Grace & PDPaola’s Grace Reflex on-trend Active personalised affordable smartwatches designs include don’t zodiac compromise constellations style and or letter functionality. pendants, The accented Series with 5 combines natural gemstones a sleek, gold-toned and cubic case zirconia. and generous 2 KAREN 1.3-inch WALKER display | Worth with &

premium Douglas The features. Society 2 signet CLASSIQUE ring features | Sams a Group flat bezel Australia with crimped Treasure edges the and new iconic Classique brand Premier symbols, Slimline, and can designed be personalised for comfort with with an engraved elevated initial. style. Available It is available in sterling set with silver 76 diamonds and 9-carat for rose an extra and yellow touch of

luxury. gold. 3 ENGELSRUFER 3 JAG | Duraflex | Pride Group Brands Australia The JAG’s Powerful new Stones seasonal Collection fashion includes watch collection six interchangeable offers affordable gemstones range – such of timeless as malachite styles and that rose combine quartz casual – representing appeal with a different an urban life feel. motto. 4 BAUME Matching & MERCIER earrings

| and Duraflex bracelets Group available. Australia 4 PETER The W Riviera BECK Collection Peter W Beck’s from Baume laser engraving & Mercier service revamps allows a 1970s customers icon for to men personalise and women. their All wedding the timepieces ring with feature a message. the original For something Riviera’s even distinctive more unique, 12-sided the stainless Express steel Yourself

bezel. engraving 5 SEIKO service The can Seiko recreate Prospex handwriting 1959 Alpinist or even Re-creation a fingerprint. brings 5 NOMINATION the iconic 1959 | Timesupply Alpinist back SeiMia to life is in a every fun, adaptable detail, with and the affordable high functionality pendant that collection characterises from Nomination, the Prospex with collection. letters and Available symbols in such as

August pets, stars, 2021, unicorns limited and to 1,959 flowers pieces. which 6 AMELIA can be added AUSTIN to necklaces | Heart & and Grace bracelets, Designed including for the natural stylish gemstone woman, the styles. Amelia 6 FABULEUX Austin Bamboo VOUS Rose The Gold Declaration Mesh fitness Friendship tracker Necklace is a fashion-forward is the perfect gift accessory for a special for all

occasions. friend. Made 7 LUMINOX from sterling | Duraflex silver with Group a rose Australia gold finish, Luminox it is engraved presents with the the new message, Bear Grylls ‘Life Survival is better Air with with friends’. three 7 time-zone PANDORA display, The iconic bi-directional Pandora Moments bezel, and bracelet ultra-durable is the perfect Carbonox way case. to express 8 MASERATI your |

West identity. End 8 DIAMONDS Collection BY The DGA Maserati | Duraflex Sfida Group 44mm Australia Gold Chronograph The latest watch addition combines to the unbranded sporty rigour Diamonds with elegance, By DGA featuring range is 9-carat a gold-plated Initial stainless Necklaces, steel case, available tachymeter in yellow bezel, and white and modern gold. dégradé dial.


10 Years Ago

Time Machine: July 2011

A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in Jeweller.

Historic Headlines

4 JAA seeks action on import tax, leases

4 Seiko’s surprise deal with French brand

4 Skagen readies for stacking rings range

4 Queensland supplier to relaunch Tendence

4 Fashion models enlisted for Sydney Fair

Silver jewellery price

adjustments ‘inevitable’

Jewellery manufacturers have begun to take

action in the face of spiralling silver prices,

conceding that volatile metal prices mean retail

price adjustments are unavoidable.

Doron Berger, co-owner of sterling silver jewellery

manufacturer Blue Turtles, was forced to issue a

price rise notification to all his stockists in May.

He explained, “If you’ve been keeping up with

the financial news lately, you’ll be aware that the

price of precious metals has risen sharply and

consistently over the past few months. Silver has

been particularly active, with the price rising as

much as 50 per cent.”

Pandora managing director Karin Adcock said it

was the company’s first silver price increase in two

years, while Stones & Silver founder Alex Bonnett

said even the strong dollar would not be able to

keep up with the increase in silver prices.

Almost all suppliers were unanimous in their

summation that high silber prices were raising the

metal’s profile in consumer’s minds.

Branded jewellery biggest

loser online?

Local branded jewellery and watch suppliers have

hit back at findings that suggest retailers who

stock branded product could lose out in the battle

against online retailers – with one even offering to

partially subsidise a loss in margin if stockists are

forced to discount to win sales.

Key findings in a research paper from the Australia

Institute suggest that bricks-and-mortar retailers

who sell branded products are most likely to suffer

in the face of the boom in online retail, using the

example of a Seiko watch listed for less than a third

of its Australian recommended retail price by two

overseas retailers selling via eBay stores.

July 2011

ON THE COVER Thomas Sabo

Editors’ Desk

4Debits and credits: “For every debit,

there’s a credit. Of course, it’s the

same concept as ‘for every negative

there’s a positive’.

Just when we get used to the new

norm after change, there’s a new

negative that requires a new positive.

I believe it’s the speed at which one

recognises and adapts to the positive

that sets the successful apart from the

not-so-successful.”

Soapbox

4Caught in the Net: “What has really

become unfathomable is when a

wooden ring with a hunk of plastic

stuck to the top can retail at $635

while the local jeweller struggles to

sell a sterling silver, handmade pair of

earrings for $80.

Few traditional jewellers have

amended their marketing strategies in

accordance with the new technological

climate. No wonder market trends

have shifted toward fashion-based

brands that utilise these platforms.”

– Ciara Fulcher, founder, Pod People

Designs and media strategy consultant

STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON

Secrets of Branding Success:

For most suppliers, their business

strategy was as simple as ‘we make the

suff, you buy it’ – but retail buyers began

to demand more. Savvy retailers began to

ask for a consumer strategy and pushed

more responsibility onto the supplier to

not only provide branded product, but

market it too.

Spike in ‘fake’ gold jewellery

An upsurge in ‘fake’ gold jewellery has been

discovered in Melbourne, where gold-coated

bracelets and chains stamped as gold looked

so genuine that retailers are being warned they

wouldn’t be able to tell the difference.

National Council of Jewellery Valuers (NCJV)

Melbourne president RIkki McAndrew, who

operates a gold traiding business, discovered

the ‘fake’ gold pieces when his customers

unwittingly tried to sell them to him.

“Most of them were blocks of tungsten and

silver coated quite thickly in gold,” McAndrew

explained. He said gold-plated tungsten pieces

are particularly hard to detect because tungsten

is a heavy metal and similar in weight to gold.

More fractures in

fragmented industry

New Zealand’s fragmented jewellery industry

could be back to square one after an attempt ot

unify the trade through a forum of the country’s

main jewellery trade organisations resulted in

further confusion and infighting.

The industyr took an encouraging first step

towards a unifiied approach in February,

with a forum including all three main trade

organisations – the Jewellers Association of New

Zealand (JANZ), Jewellers and Watchmakers

of New Zealand (JWNZ) and Jewellers

Manufacturers Federation (JWF).

However, JANZ has since withdrawn its support

for a ‘one party’ approach.

READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM

26 | July 2021


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INSIDE

My Store

Hamilton & Inches

EDINBURGH, UK with Victoria Houghton, CEO • SPACE COMPLETED April 2021

4Who is the target market and how did they

influence the store design?

The customer experience has been at the forefront

of the project to renovate our Edinburgh flagship

store – a five-storey Georgian townhouse – since

its inception. We incorporated residential elements

into a retail environment to achieve an inviting and

warm atmosphere, while creating a memorable

experience for all to enjoy.

We wanted to create a space that was luxurious

but not intimidating; a retail environment where

everyone felt comfortable to browse our handcrafted

jewellery, silver and watches.

We have a huge range of products and truly believe

there is something for everyone.

4With consumer purchasing in mind,

which features encourage sales?

Our new ‘lifestyle’ area, which includes stylish

service desks throughout, offers customers a space

where they can drop in to shop, or stay for a cup of

coffee or a glass of champagne.

Customers also have access to a more intimate

and discreet shopping experience with the private

VIP consultation rooms, where we create a tailored

experience that suits their needs.

We wanted to reflect the quality and design

excellence of our products throughout the

showroom design and construction.

4What is the store design’s wow factor?

That ‘wow factor’ for me is the transformation.

It has kept and enhanced the building’s historic

accents and celebrates the essence of Hamilton

& Inches, which was founded in 1866.

We’ve created a retail experience that honours

heritage while innovating with contemporary design.

Hamilton & Inches carefully selected local

tradespeople for the renovation project,

choosing each for their skills, expertise, and

like-minded craftsmanship.

By championing local suppliers and using

traditional materials, the organisations have

created a trustworthy assurance of quality,

ensuring that the showroom delights our new

and returning customers.

28 | July 2021


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www.gem.org.au

Be

Confident

Gem-Ed Australia

ADELAIDE BRISBANE HOBART MELBOURNE PERTH SYDNEY

Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts

and consumers about gemstones


REVIEW

Gems

Apatite: A touch of mystery

L to R: Kat Florence ring; OGI necklace; Nikos Koulis earrings

Below: Meghna Jewels ring; Ena Iro ring

Apatite derives its name from the Greek

word apate, meaning to deceive – referring

to how this gemstone is often confused

with other minerals, including the striking

Paraíba tourmaline.

Apatite is a lesser-known gemstone in the

world of jewellery. Although the mineral

is the most common phosphate material

found on Earth, transparent gem-quality

apatite is rare. Its chemical composition is

quite variable, with most gem apatite being

fluor-apatites.

The most common colours of gemstonequality

apatite are green or yellowishbrown,

earning it the nickname

‘asparagus stone’.

Other colours of apatite include a range

of beautiful blues, purples, pinks, yellows,

and even blue-greens, in a captivating

neon colour resembling the exceptional

Paraíba tourmaline.

Given the significant price difference

between Paraíba tourmaline and neon bluegreen

apatite, these vibrant hues are the

most sought after, and the rarest.

A commonly seen phenomenon in apatite

is cat’s eye – a type of chatoyancy – caused

by fine needle-like inclusions. This effect in

stones with a deep blue body colour is the

rarest and most desired type.

Cat’s eye apatite gemstones are cut en

cabochon to highlight the sheen.

With a hardness of 5 on Mohs’ scale, apatite

is prone to scratching.

This quality, in addition to its somewhat

brittle nature, makes it best suited to

necklaces and earrings, rather than pieces

of jewellery more exposed to wear.

It is advised to avoid ultrasonic and steam

cleaning and instead opt for warm soapy

water and a soft toothbrush. As with any

softer stone, clean gently.

A combination of three factors – softness,

brittleness, and thermal-induced cleaving –

make apatite a challenging stone to cut.

Different varieties and colours of apatite are

found in different geographical locations,

due to varying geochemistry.

World sources include Myanmar (Burma)

for blue, blue-green, colourless, and green

cat’s eye, Mexico for yellow-greens, and

Canada for browns and the bright green

variety known as trilliumite.

Brazil is a source for green, blue, and green

cat’s eye, Madagascar for light blues, Sri

Lanka for blue, green, and yellow cat’s eye,

and Tanzania for yellow cat’s eye.

Although incredibly rare, asterism in

apatite (known as star apatite) has also

been recorded.

Depending on the body colour of the

stone, apatite can display some wonderful

fluorescence under ultra-violet light,

including lilac-pinks, pale mauves and

greenish-yellows.

A particularly helpful identification feature

in the blue and yellow-green varieties is

what’s known as the didymium spectrum of

Apatite

From the Greek apate,

meaning “to deceive”

Colour: Blue, purple,

pink, yellow, green,

brown, and ‘neon’

blue-green

Found in: Myanmar

(Burma), Mexico,

Canada, Brazil,

Madagascar, Sri

Lanka, Tanzania

Mohs Hardness: 5

Class: Phosphate

mineral

Lustre: Vitreous to

sub-resinous

Formula:

Ca 5

(PO 4

) 3

(F,Cl,OH)

multiple fine absorption lines in the yellow

and green, observed with a spectroscope.

Synthetic apatite has been produced,

though it is very rare and not commercially

available. The first piece submitted to GIA

for identification was a colour-change

specimen in 2001.

Apatite can be an interesting stone for those

who love the microscopic world as it often

exhibits a range of interesting inclusions of

other mineral species, including haematite

and tourmaline.

Often, gemstones may have known

imitants designed to resemble them and

even deceive buyers – but as suggested

in the etymology of apatite, it is often the

deceiver itself!

It is not at all uncommon for these

gemstones to be confused with a range of

other minerals.

With its array of gorgeous and vibrant

colours, apatite offers a touch of mystery

to a special necklace or set of earrings.

Looked after carefully, it can be a budgetconscious

option, particularly as an

alternative to vivid tourmaline.

Mikaelah Egan FGAA Dip DT

began her career in 2015 with an

independent manufacturing jeweller.

She now balances her role as a

gemmologist and design consultant at

Vault Valuations in Brisbane with studying

geology at the University of Queensland.

Visit instagram.com/mikaelah.egan

July 2021 | 31


CELEBRATING

Local Talent

LUKE ROSE

JEWELLERY

Spiked Pearl Baby

T Bar Neacklace

& Ear Wires

Metal: 9-carat

yellow gold

Gemstone: Pearl

JUJU GEMS

Serpent Emerald Earrings

Metal: 9-carat white gold

Gemstone: Emerald

Larna Cooper

Sydney, NSW

Luke Rose

Sydney, NSW

JENNIFER MARTIN

JEWELLERY

London Angel

Earrings

Metal: 18-carat

yellow gold

Gemstones: Blue topaz

Jennifer Martin

Melbourne, VIC

Australia and New Zealand are not only home to some of the

rarest gemstones in the world, but also the most talented jewellers.

Jeweller showcases a tapestry of local masterpieces that have been

meticulously crafted with great artisanship, right here on home soil

SARAH MCALEER

JEWELLERYSMITH

Curl Rings

Metal: Yellow gold

Gemstones: Sapphire, blue

topaz (left); green sapphire,

green tourmaline, peridot (right)

Sarah McAleer

Perth, WA

RICK SOUTHWICK

BESPOKE JEWELLER

Sputnik Ring

Metals: Palladium silver,

yellow gold

Gemstones: Ruby, sapphire,

blue and white diamond

Rick Southwick

Sydney, NSW

32 | July 2021


ROBERTO MATTEI

JEWELLERY DESIGN

‘Switch’ Pendant

Metals: Silver, brass

Gemstones: Ruby,

citrine, emerald

Roberto Mattei

Sydney, NSW

SMALL SPACE

JEWELLERY

From the Heavens Ring

Metal: 18-carat white and

yellow gold

Gemstones:Diamond,

iron-based meteorite

Robyn Wernicke

Melbourne, VIC

CESAR CUEVA

Opal Necklace

Metal: 18-carat

yellow gold

Gemstone:

Australian

black opal

Cesar Cueva

Sydney, NSW

MARK

COTTERELL

Belle Ring

Metals: 18-carat

white gold

Gemstones:

Aquamarine, diamond

Mark Cotterell

Brisbane, QLD

TAMAHRA PROWSE

Custom Malachite

Earrings

Metal: 9-carat gold

Gemstones: Malachite with

chrysocolla, garnet

Tamahra Prowse

Sydney, NSW

DARREN HARVEY

Twin Peaks Cuff

Metals: Sterling Silver

Darren Harvey

Huon Valley, TAS

ERIN TIMONY BESPOKE

JEWELLERY

Custom Sapphire and

Tourmaline Ring

Metal: Yellow and white gold

Gemstone: Parti-colour

sapphire, pink tourmaline

Erin Timony

Sydney, NSW

July 2021 | 33


FEATURE

Personalised Jewellery

UP CLOSE

&

Personal

ARABELLA RODEN explores the deep and varied history of personalised

jewellery, from birthstones to signet rings and beyond.

FOUNDRAE 2020 CAMPAIGN


PERSONALISED JEWELLERY | Up Close and Personal

L to R: Catherine Zoraida, Karen Walker, Foundrae, Tiffany & Co., Dolce & Gabbana, Ashley Zhang

C

entral to the wearing of jewellery is the

element of personalisation: the ability of

precious gemstones and metal adornments

to signify the unique attributes of the wearer.

Before recorded history, humans wore jewellery to express

elements of their identity, from cultural affiliation to social

status, occupation, and interpersonal bonds.

Today, jewellery serves the same purpose – and perhaps

nowhere is this more apparent than in the personalised

jewellery category.

Current personalised jewellery trends – from birthstone and

zodiac jewellery to initial pendants and signet rings – have

deep historical roots, yet remain relevant to consumers by

appealing to the innate desire to express oneself.

Birthstones and zodiac jewellery

Some scholars trace birthstone jewellery – like astrology

– back to ancient Hindu traditions, which associated

gemstones with nine ‘celestial forces’.

In Western culture, the 1st Century historian Josephus

is often credited with connecting the 12 zodiac signs –

Aries, Taurus, Gemini, Cancer, Leo, Virgo, Libra, Scorpio,

Sagittarius, Capricorn, Aquarius, and Pisces – with the

12 gemstones said to have been embedded in Aaron’s

breastplate in the Bible.

However, the trend of wearing gemstones correlated with

one’s own birth month likely dates to 16th Century Europe.

By the Victorian era, from 1837–1901, birthstones

were “considered the favourite stone of choice” for

engagements, writes gemmologist C. Jeanenne Bell in

Collecting Victorian Jewelry – and remained so, until they

were superseded by diamonds in the mid-20th Century.

However, there was no consensus on the ‘official’ list

of birthstones until 1912, when the US-based National

Association of Jewelers formalised American birthstones

for commercial and promotional purposes.

This list was modified in 1952 by the Jewelry Industry

By Chari

Gucci

Mateo NY

Council of America, with several stones added.

Further updates occurred in 2002 and 2016 as new

gemstones became widely available and in demand

with consumers.

Like birthstones, zodiac symbols are closely linked

with personal identity – and share an ancient past.

The Western zodiac is largely derived from the Greek

philosopher Ptolemy’s 2nd Century work Tetrabiblos.

The trend of wearing gemstones

correlated with one’s own

birth month likely dates to 16th

Century Europe. By the Victorian

era, from 1837–1901, birthstones

were considered the [gemstone]

of choice for engagements”

The Chinese zodiac dates back even further, potentially

to the Zhan Guo period in the 5th Century BCE, and was

formalised during the time of the Han Dynasty (between

206 BCE and 9 CE).

Zodiac jewellery first rose to mainstream popularity in

the 1930s and again in the ’70s – the so-called ‘Age of

Aquarius’, when the trend was embraced by Parisian

jewellery houses – according to jewellery historian

Marion Fasel.

Recently, the trend has become popular once again

– in particular, pendants engraved or gem-set with

Western zodiac symbols and/or their corresponding

constellations.

Searches for the term ‘zodiac necklace’ steadily

increased over the past four years, both in Australia

and worldwide, according to Google Trends data.

“Zodiac jewellery peaked in popularity during the 1930s,

July 2021 | 35


Up Close and Personal | PERSONALISED JEWELLERY

MODERN

AUSTRALIAN

LIST

Birthstones

the 1970s and today: all eras of great uncertainty,” Fasel

recently told fashion magazine Porter.

“People look to the stars and want their jewelry to act

as and a talisman during difficult, uncertain times.”

Celebrity endorsement has also played a role; models

Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner are among the stars

who have worn the trend, donning zodiac pendants

crafted by US designer Mercii.

Initialled jewelled pendants and

monogrammed jewels were largely

for rulers, royals, and the most

powerful members of a court,

until the 19th Century”

Meghan Markle, the Duchess of Sussex, frequently

wears Taurus and Virgo zodiac pendants – the star signs

of her son Archie and husband Prince Harry – created by

Canadian jewellery brand Suetables.

Indeed, Markle has a well-documented love of

personalised jewellery of all kinds; her custom-made

Lorraine Schwartz eternity ring is set with a hidden

peridot, sapphire, and emerald – the birthstones of

herself, her husband, and son – and she has also donned

Ecksand stacking rings with her family’s birthstones.

Additionally, Markle has given royal approval to another

trend: the initial pendant.

Initial pendants and signet rings

Markle famously donned a necklace featuring the

letters ‘M’ and ‘H’, prior to her official engagement to

Prince Harry. In 2019, Markle donned an ‘A’ necklace at

Wimbledon in tribute to her then-newborn son, causing

the website of its designer – Australia’s Verse Fine

Jewellery – to crash.

Intriguingly, her late mother-in-law, Diana, Princess of

Wales, donned a sterling silver ‘D’ choker in her youth –

First formalised by the

US National Association

of Jewelers in 1912, the

‘official’ birthstone list has

been altered and updated

for different markets.

JANUARY

Garnet

FEBRUARY

Amethyst

MARCH

Aquamarine

APRIL

Diamond

MAY

Emerald

JUNE

Pearl

JULY

Ruby

AUGUST

Peridot

SEPTEMBER

Sapphire

OCTOBER

Opal

NOVEMBER

Topaz

DECEMBER

Tanzanite

later upgrading to a large gold version when she rose to

public prominence.

Historically, King Henry VIII’s second wife Anne Boleyn is

perhaps the most famous royal wearer of initial jewellery,

with her portrait – which hangs in London’s National

Portrait Gallery – featuring a pearl ‘B’ necklace.

“Initialled jewelled pendants and monogrammed

jewels were largely for rulers, royals, and the most

powerful members of a court until the 19th Century,”

Rebecca Selva, a jewellery expert and chief creative

officer of jewellery brand Fred Leighton, told Town &

Country magazine.

“As the 19th Century progressed and an emerging

industrial and middle class grew, jewellery manufacturing

grew to meet the demands of the burgeoning merchant

and middle class.

“With the popularity of sentimental jewellery in the 19th

Century, initial and monogrammed jewels were in great

demand,” Selva added, noting that “the popularity of

charms and charm bracelets in the 1920s and 1940s again

allowed for the creation of a most individualised jewel,

which of course included initial charms and pendants.”

Today, alongside Markle, Gwyneth Paltrow and Bella

Hadid are some of the more high-profile celebrity wearers

of initial pendants, donning designs by Foundrae and

Burberry, respectively.

Similar to initial pendants, signet rings were once

reserved for the aristocracy; specimens have been found

dating to ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt, and Nubia, and a

Persian king is noted as wearing a signet ring in the Bible.

Used in place of a signature, the rings were

generally crafted in solid gold and engraved

or set with carved gemstones or intaglios,

which could be dipped in wax and

pressed on documents.

A ring’s ‘identifying marks’

would generally be a coat

of arms, monogram, family

L to R: Monica Vinader; Karen Walker; Pacharee

36 | July 2021

Carolina Bucci


Up Close and Personal | PERSONALISED JEWELLERY

L to R: W. Rosado; Simone Rocha; Meghan, Duchess of Sussex; Gwyneth Paltrow; Cara Delevingne. Top: Shay Fine Jewelry

seal, or the wearer’s initials; indeed, the term ‘signet’

derives from the Latin term signum, meaning ‘sign’.

Beyond antiquity, signet rings saw a resurgence of popularity

in the Middle Ages and Renaissance, according to historian

Emily Stoehrer, of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

By the late 19th Century, signet rings had largely moved

beyond practical use and evolved into a “status symbol”,

says jewellery historian Lori Ettlinger Gross.

“The tops of the rings had decoration or engraving [and]

often were gem-set, or if they were metal intensive, they

bore initials done in shallow-yet-decorative engraving.

Once reserved for men in the

upper echelons of society, today

the signet ring is enjoying more

widespread appeal”

“You could probably say that it was in the 19th Century

that signet rings became more of a personal statement,”

Gross explained.

While once reserved for men in the upper echelons of

society, today the signet ring is enjoying more widespread

appeal, with jewellery designers creating streamlined

versions for unisex wear.

The signature flat face offers a variety of options for

personalisation, beyond the classic coat-of-arms or initials,

yet retains the traditional signet ring’s sense of power and

authority – increasingly appealing to the modern woman.

Consumers have also moved beyond wearing the signet

ring on the pinky, instead incorporating it as a stacking

piece with jewellery on other fingers.

Modern personalisation

Recent years have seen the rise of what consultancy firm

Deloitte terms “mass personalisation”.

In the 11th edition of its Consumer Review report, Made

38 | July 2021

QUICK RE V IE W

In Summary

Tradition meets

modernity

Personalised jewellery

can trace its origins back

to the ancient past, yet

remains particularly

relevant to today’s

consumers

Democratisation

of the elite

Once reserved for

the most powerful

members of society,

personalised jewellery

is today available to the

masses

Expression of

identity

Central to today’s

personalised jewellery

trend is the reflection

of an individual’s

unique identity and

sense of self

Versatile and

adaptable

There are personalised

jewellery options to

suit all styles, from

delicate and feminine

zodiac gemstone

pendants to bold,

unisex signet rings

To Order: The Rise of Mass Personalisation, Deloitte

analysts write, “Empowered by social networks and their

digital devices, consumers are increasingly dictating what

they want, when and where they want it.

Deloitte research indicated that

in some categories, more than 50

per cent of consumers expressed

interest in purchasing personalised

products or services, with a

majority willing to pay more”

“As society becomes more affluent, the demand for

personalised products and services will continue to

increase as manufacturers seek to satisfy consumers.”

Deloitte research indicated that in some categories,

more than 50 per cent of consumers expressed interest

in purchasing personalised products or services, with a

majority willing to pay more – “particularly in the more

expensive or fashion-related categories.”

In jewellery, birthstones, initials, and zodiac symbols

immediately give pieces a deeply personal quality to which

consumers respond; there is a throughline between the

simple initial necklace or birthstone ring back to the

traditions of the past.

At the same time, jewellers can offer

an affordable personalisation service by

adding custom elements inspired by these

trends, such as engraving a zodiac symbol

or embedding a tiny birthstone.

Beyond beauty, personalised jewellery

affirms identity; and with consumers ever

more drawn to the personal, custom, and

unique, as well as open self-expression,

personalised jewellery neatly dovetails with

both modern tastes and ancient history.

Jessie V E


Left: Jean-Baptiste

Mellerio. Above

and left inset:

Antique acrostic

jewellery, 1stDibs

HIDDEN MESSAGES

ACROSTIC JEWELLERY

A lesser-known personalised trend that appears to be enjoying

a resurgence is acrostic jewellery – also called ‘hidden message’

jewellery.

Credited to the 18th Century Parisian jeweller Jean-Baptiste Mellerio, acrostic

jewellery featured messages spelled out with the ‘language of gemstones’.

Each gemstone corresponded with a letter of the alphabet – D for diamond,

R for ruby, and so on (see modern version, below) – and would be set in rings

or pendants to spell out words, such as ‘souvenir’ (French for memory or

remember), ‘regard’, ‘love’, and ‘dearest’.

French Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte reportedly commissioned several

acrostic pieces for family members, and numerous antique examples from

the Victorian and Georgian eras are available today.

Modern versions of acrostic jewellery have been crafted by Cartier, Chaumet,

and Verdure, among many others.

A Amethyst, aquamarine,

alexandrite, amber, ametrine, apatite

N

O

Nephrite

Opal, onyx

B Black opal, boulder opal, beryl P Pearl, peridot

C Citrine, carnelian, chrysoprase,

Q Quartz

coral, chalcedony

R Ruby, rose quartz,

rhodochrosite, rubellite

D Diamond, demantoid garnet,

diaspore S Spinel, sapphire, sunstone,

South Sea pearl, smoky quartz

E Emerald

F

G

Fluorite

Garnet

T Tourmaline, tanzanite, topaz,

turquoise, tsavorite

H Hessonite garnet, haematite

(bloodstone), heliodor (yellow beryl)

U

V

Umbalite (Tanzanian garnet)

Verdelite (green tourmaline)

I Indicolite (blue tourmaline), iolite W Watermelon tourmaline

J Jasper, jade, jet X (none)

K Kyanite, kunzite Y Yellow beryl

L

M

Lapis lazuli, labradorite

Moonstone, morganite

Z Zircon, zoisite, Zultanite

(colour-change diaspore)


FEATURE

Equipment Innovations

2021 EQUIPMENT INNOVATIONS

Innovation Information

Palloys

As the jewellery trade continues to evolve, so too do the tools and

equipment used by its workforce, writes ARABELLA RODEN.

As the saying goes, a workman is only as good

as their tools. Like most industries, over the

years jewellery creation has evolved from

largely hand-based, physically-taxing equipment

towards more efficient technological solutions –

allowing for ever more precision, design creativity,

speed, and fewer injuries on the bench.

Manufacturers – and even jewellers themselves – have taken

inspiration from other industries such as car manufacturing

and welding to develop new, or refine existing, tools.

Selwyn Brandt, director Australian Jewellers Supplies, tells

Jeweller, “Minor innovations happen all the time. People try

and improve on basic hand tools – the hand skills that are

required of a jeweller still make use of traditional tools, such

as pliers, hammers, files, so on.

“Many improvements to these occur because a given jeweller,

somewhere around the world, determines that the tools that

are available just aren’t enough so they then design their own

and many of these tools often end up being available to the

wider jewellery community.”

He points to aluminium saw frames – which are more

balanced than older models, helping to prevent repetitive

stress injuries – and precision hammers for setting work as

examples of such equipment.

Brandt adds, “Other pieces of equipment are taken from other

fields and modified so that they are usable in the jewellery

INDUSTRY

INFLUENCES

DENTAL

Pulse-arc

fusion for

welding and

micro-motors

for drilling

WELDING

Lasers for

engraving and

welding

AUTO

Electrolysis

for polishing

and finishing

industry – usually ‘toned down’ and miniaturised.”

In watchmaking, Catherine Craner, managing director The

Battery Man, says the focus is on innovations and refinements

from established brands with a reputation for quality and

reliability.

“For the essentials, watchmakers turn to manufacturers like

Bergeon, which was founded in Switzerland more than 200

years ago, Beco Technic from Germany, and Seiko in Japan,

which all have a reputation for very high quality. Any new

innovations from these manufacturers can be trusted.”

Meanwhile, the technology sector continues to provide

innovative tools for jewellery businesses, from e-commerce to

billing and workflow management.

Best of the bench

When it comes to jewellery manufacturing, two forms of microwelding

have been rapidly embraced: laser and pulse-arc.

Pulse-arc welding joins metals through the fusion process.

“Pulse-arc welding creates a very instantaneous and low-heat

spark between two bits of metal which creates a fusion,”

explains Brandt.

“This can also be used for unrelated metals, precious metal or

non-precious metal and there is a version that is used for very

hard metals in the dental industry.”

He adds, “Fusion is an interesting concept because it’s lowheat,

non-destructive, and there are many delicate articles

40 | July 2021


EQUIPMENT INNOVATIONS | Innovation Information

Facing page (L to R): Elma Noise Protection Enclosure

Box and Ultrasonic Cleaner, courtesy Techspan

Australia; Orion 150s Welding System, courtesy

Australian Jewellers Supplies (AJS); Formlabs Castable

Wax 40 Resin and Form 3 Printer, courtesy LST Group;

Left: Designing with 3Design CAD software, courtesy

LST Group

we can weld with this technology that we couldn’t do before.

Previously, all welding was done using open flame torches.”

Meanwhile, laser welding – used for many years in the broader

manufacturing industry – has been redeveloped for use in

jewellery, with machines producing a fine, concentrated,

heated beam that is ideal for working with metals such as

steel, aluminium, and titanium.

At Jewellery Services in New Zealand, director Richard Mayo

tells Jeweller, “We have just purchased our fourth laser

welder unit. They are amazing for speed; we use them for

most chain repairs and any claw work.

“We also use them for platinum sizing and will be purchasing a

camera/screen system for one of them for training purposes.”

Laser technology is also used for engraving, with Mayo adding,

“We have started using a new laser engraver, which is great

added-value for the retail stores we support.”

Alongside laser engravers, pneumatic engraving and stonesetting

machines, such as those produced by GRS, remain

popular among jewellers.

“The Graversmith system is 30 or 40 years old, but the

manufacturer, GRS, is a very progressive company and they

continuously introduce innovations and subtle improvements

to each of their models over time,” says Brandt.

Notably, Brandt points to the use of microscopes as a more

recent innovation in engraving and micro-setting.

“Using the microscope, together with the necessary amount

of light, has made a big difference to the ability to create

accuracy in delicate and very intricate work,” he explains.

“The microscope is very important, from that point of view, to

give the jeweller that vision and ability to work on small, delicate

things, which you cannot really do with the naked eye.”

Jewellery Services currently has two microscopes used for

setting work, and plans to purchase a third.

Microscopes are also now frequently used in laser and pulsearc

welding, as jeweller’s microscopes have a built-in weldinggrade

lens that filters light to protect the eyes – a common

concern on the bench.

Polishing and finishing has seen more innovation: “There

is some equipment now that uses a modification on what

WATCH

REPAIR

ESSENTIALS

When it comes to

watch repair, these

tools should be in

every kit:

• Compass and

demagnetiser

• Tweezers

• Eye loupe

• Set of

screwdrivers

• Case opener

• Battery tester

• Air-pressure

tester

• Silicon greaser

• Set of gaskets and

spring bar pins

Above: Bergeon JAXA

Case Opener; Seiko S880

Digital Multi-Tester

jewellers know to be ‘tumbling’, using electrolysis to polish

and finish pieces of jewellery.

“That has been borrowed and miniaturised from other fields,

such as the motor industry,” says Brandt.

The dental industry has also made its mark on jewellery with

the introduction of micro-motors, which Brandt says have

“almost entirely” superseded flexible-drive motors for drilling.

Overlooked essentials

Often overlooked, yet essential to any jewellery business, is

cleaning technology.

“We have supplied a vast array of equipment to almost every

industry in Australia, and the jewellery sector will almost

always specify Elma ultrasonic cleaners and supplies,” says

Tim Fastnedge, managing director, Techspan Australia.

“The brand is very well known and respected around the

planet for their effectiveness and reliability.”

However, noise is a common complaint when it comes to

ultrasonic cleaning. To address this issue, Elma has recently

introduced a range of sound enclosures.

“Depending on its frequency, ultrasound activity can generate

an array of different noise levels within the cleaning liquid,”

explains Fastnedge.

“Elma has developed noise protection boxes for a number of

ultrasonic cleaner device sizes, which can significantly reduce

the noise level. There are three models – two that cover most

of the small-to-medium-sized ultrasonic cleaners, and an

extra-large size.”

In terms of cleaning for watchmakers, Craner says Elma

ultrasonic cleaners are also “very highly regarded”.

“We’ve also heard very positive feedback on the Heli cleaning

products from Beco Technic, which can be used on both

stainless steel and leather,” says Craner.

“The quality of the cleaning is fantastic, and there are no harsh

chemicals in the formula, which is innovative.”

Craner also observes that “a good-quality compass and

demagnetiser” are other often-overlooked pieces of

equipment on the watchmaker’s bench.

“Magnetic devices are everywhere – smartphones, tablets,

July 2021 | 41


Innovation Information | EQUIPMENT INNOVATIONS

EST. 1981

GREAT WATCHES DESERVE

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42 | April 2021

Selwyn Brandt

Australian

Jewellers Supplies

Catherine

Craner

The Battery Man

Chris Hill

LST Group

“Fusion [used in pulsearc

welding] is an

interesting concept

because it’s low-heat,

non-destructive, and

there are many delicate

articles we can weld with

this technology that we

couldn’t do before.”

“The new Seiko S880

Digital Multi-Tester

is a step up from the

previous S860 model...

It’s due to arrive in

Australia towards the

end of the year and we

will be accepting preorders

at the Sydney

trade fair.”

“With CAD, the

technology to create

and sell online will

become more seamless

and offer more

customer interaction

directly on the website

– interactive 3D models

in a web browser...

updated instantly.”

and even phone holders for the car which use magnetic

docking to keep the phone in place.

“People often don’t realise how magnetism can impact

a watch – that should be the first thing that’s checked

in a repair, before moving on to the battery or the

mechanics,” she explains.

“So, the compass and demagnetiser are essential.

Also, non-steel tweezers – you should never use steel

tweezers with a watch battery!”

When it comes to innovations, Craner points to “case

openers that can cater to the larger watch sizes that are

becoming increasingly popular”.

“With the fashion for larger watches, the tools need

to be adapted; the Bergeon JAXA case opener, for

example, works for cases up to 62mm,” she says.

Craner also notes the new Seiko S880 Digital Multi-

Tester, which she calls “a step up from the previous

S860 model, which has been discontinued”.

“It’s due to arrive in Australia towards the end of

the year and we will be accepting pre-orders at the

Sydney trade fair [International Jewellery & Watch

Fair],” she adds.

Technology solutions

Beyond the bench, Brandt says no discussion of

jewellery equipment innovation would be complete

without mentioning 3D printing and computer-aided

design (CAD).

“The big innovation in casting has been, of course,

3D printing, and with that we can create so many

more options for jewellery,” Brandt explains, adding,

Jewellers used to literally hand-sculpt the models

and they now do this using CAD and 3D print very

intricate models.”


When it comes

to jewellery

manufacturing,

two forms of

micro-welding

have been rapidly

embraced.”

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CLEANING

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Facing page (L to R): Orion

LZR100 Laser Welder; Leica

A60 Microscope; Dado Laser

Welder, all courtesy AJS.

This page (L to R): Lampert

Puk 5.1 Precision Welder;

FlashForge 3D Printer, both

courtesy AJS

MADE IN GERMANY

Chris Hill, director LST Group, says, “[3D jewellery

software developer] 3Design has released version

10, which has 50 new features and 20 new tools;

CAD makes it easier for jewellers to quickly turn

their ideas into reality.”

Hill believes CAD and 3D printing offer a

“significant advantage” to jewellers: “Not only can

you significantly reduce production costs, but you

can control the workflow, communicate concepts

with customers, prototype ideas and deliver a

better product in a shorter time.”

He adds, “With CAD, the technology to create and

sell online will become more seamless and offer

more customer interaction directly on the website–

interactive 3D models in a web browser that

can be adjusted for metal colour, stone size and

shape, updated instantly with a price ready for the

customer to order.

“The tools are already available, it will just take a

few innovative brands to get their online shopping

experience up to date,” Hill explains.

On the supplier side, Palloys, AGS, PJW, Regentco

and A&E Metals – all part of the Pallion group of

companies – launched an all-in-one platform in

2020 for customised 3D printing orders.

The platform, which took two years to design and

implement, allows jewellers to upload a CAD file

and receive an instant quote for a finished piece,

including everything from print to mould, casting

and finishing.

“The instant quoting for CAD files, casting from

their own mould library, fabricated metals and

diamonds allows jewellers to enjoy accurate and

instant quotes they can pass onto their customers,

giving the jewellers an instant competitive

advantage,” Alison Habbal, assistant operations

manager – jewellery at Palloys, told Jeweller last

October.

As a result, online orders for the group’s jewellery

division more than doubled in 2021.

At Jewellery Services, Mayo tells Jeweller work

has already begun on a “customer portal” “where

stores can login and see their job information,

images, billing, order stock, etcetera.

“We will have this live for Christmas,” he adds.

Digital innovation has also occurred in other areas

of Jewellery Services’ business.

“We have recently updated all our computer

systems to be cloud-first, using Microsoft

Dynamics as our core system,” says Mayo.

“With this, we have been able to develop a way

for our jewellers to use tablets to manage their

workflow; they take a picture of the item with the

tablet, fill in the necessary information, and it goes

straight to billing.”

Knowledge is power

For retail jewellers looking to embrace

technological solutions, Hill emphasises the

importance of education. “Many jewellers have

been left behind with CAD, although it’s never too

late to learn a new skill,” he observes.

Mayo notes that Jewellery Services’ new

microscope and laser welder will be fitted with

screens and cameras for training purposes.

The critical importance of training is recognised

by Katherine Kovacs, federal chair of the

Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA).

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Ultimately, tools

are only as useful

as the jeweller

holding them;

education on how

to use any piece of

equipment is

essential.”

L to R: Jake Newell custom handengraved

stainless steel with gold

and copper inlay; GRS GraverMax

G8; Orion Nano 20 Watt LZR Laser

Engraver, both courtesy AJS

“Ultimately, tools are only as useful as the jeweller holding them;

the education on how to use any piece of equipment – no matter

how basic or advanced – is essential,” she tells Jeweller.

The GAA’s courses offer comprehensive guidance on how to

use the latest gemmological equipment and how to interpret

results – particularly when it comes to correctly identifying

gemstones and detecting treatments, which may not have

been disclosed.

Whether manufacturing or retail

jeweller, it is critical to maintain not

only up-to-date equipment that meets

the needs of your business, but also

education in how best to utilise the

tools at your disposal

In June, a spotlight was shone on lab-created diamond detection

when the International Gemological Institute (IGI) exposed

an 6.18-carat diamond as lab-created, despite being laserinscribed

with a natural diamond’s grading report serial number.

“Identification is crucial for both natural and lab-grown

diamonds, as both markets are prospering and important

to consumers, and at IGI, we saw that firsthand when we

uncovered the largest misrepresented diamond, weighing

in at 6.18-carats,” IGI CEO Roland Lorie told Jeweller.

IGI anticipates that the number of lab-created diamonds cut

and polished to mimic the characteristics of specific natural

diamonds, with grading reports, will continue to increase,

which reinforces the importance of secondary verification

and proper grading and screening.

“As an industry, we must work together to ensure that we are

providing shoppers with accurate identification,” said Lorie.

He added, “The Institute understands the choice consumers

have when buying either natural or lab-grown diamonds, and

we must communicate with the utmost certainty that their

selections are aligned with what is reported on the certificate.”

44 | July 2021

HAND TOOL

UPGRADES

Aluminium

Saw Frame: The

aluminium saw

frame is ultra

lightweight yet

rigid; it was

developed by

Knew Concepts, a

company founded

by the late Lee

Marshall –

inventor of small

hydraulic presses

for jewellerymaking

– in

association with

saw designer

Brian Meeks

Sliding Hammer:

Designed by

metalsmith

and instructor

Jay Whaley, the

Whaley Sliding

Hammer allows

the jeweller to

precisely move

metal; a punch is

retained within

the head of the

hammer, sliding

up and down and

ensuring head and

punch are aligned

at all times

For retail jewellers, there have also been recent innovations

in desktop and handheld diamond detection devices – also

known as diamond verification instruments.

Yehuda Diamond Company recently released its Sherlock

Holmes 3.0 diamond detector, which retains the previous

model’s 100 per cent detection rate of CVD and HPHT stones,

as assessed by the Natural Diamond Council’s ASSURE

Diamond Verification testing process, previously known as

Project ASSURE.

At the same time, several improvements have been made,

including a significantly lower false-positive rate, more

accessible design, and a new eight-times magnification view.

Meanwhile, OGI Systems’ Diatrue CS is one of the most recent

additions to the ASSURE Diamond Verification directory,

having been tested in early 2021. According to OGI Systems,

it was ranked highest for a novice operator, testing for labcreated

diamonds larger than 2mm.

The Diatrue CS includes a diamond reference database, autodetection

of both chemical vapour deposition and

high-pressure, high-temperature lab-created diamonds,

and improved software from previous models.

Notably, the total number of detectors in the ASSURE

directory had risen to 33 at the time of publication –

however many require the operator to either

fully or partially interpret the results,

once again emphasising

the importance of

equipment

knowledge.

Whether

manufacturing or

retail jeweller, it is

critical to maintain not

only up-to-date equipment

that meets the needs of your

business, but also education

in how best to utilise the many

innovative tools at your disposal.

L to R: Whaley Sliding Hammer;

Knew Concepts Aluminium Saw

Frame, both courtesy AJS


SPOTLIGHT ON

Engraving

EQUIPMENT INNOVATIONS | Innovation Information

Jewellery engraving has a long history, yet its appeal persists into

the modern day – particularly as consumers become ever-more

oriented toward personalisation and customisation.

Beginning with traditional hand tools and physical force, the art

developed over time in order to reduce the stress on the jeweller or

craftsman’s body, as well as increase precision and the variety of

designs available.

Pneumatic tools, such as those developed by US company GRS, were

a significant breakthrough and continue to be used widely across the

jewellery industry today – both for their affordability and versatility.

Such equipment is frequently upgraded with new settings and

attachments, and are ideally suited to intricate work. As the technology

has evolved from traditional hand tools, many can also be used for

gem-setting.

Laser engraving developed separately, reaching the jewellery industry

after the technology had matured.

Using light to alter the surface of the metal based on digital inputs, laser

engraving is ideal for replicating fingerprints and photographs, engraving

all types of metals, and enhancing the contrast in a jewellery design.

However, advanced laser machinery can be expensive – with some

models priced in the tens of thousands of dollars – putting them out

of reach of many jewellers. Instead, they turn to jewellery services

suppliers to create custom laser-engraved designs.

Above: Hand-engraving with

pneumatic tools, courtesy GRS.

Left: laser-engraved rings,

courtesy Peter W Beck

Technology & Bench Solutions

for jewellers

AUSTRALIAN

JEWELLERY TOOLS

WHOLESALER

SPECIALISING IN QUALITY JEWELLERY

TOOLS & EQUIPMENT WITH EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE

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FAX: (07) 3368 3100

www.labanda.com.au


BUSINESS

Strategy

Identifying the 10 key traits

of a teammate employee

RYAN ESTIS discusses the most important characteristics in valuable

employees who contribute the most to a business’ success.

When I decided to start my business more

than 10 years ago, I wasn’t entirely sure

where it would take me – but I knew who

I wanted to join me on the journey.

My first employee was also my first friend

in my first job after graduating from

university. While our careers had taken

different paths, our friendship had

persevered – and to this day, her skills

and contributions are reflected in my

business’ bottom line.

That is the value of teamwork, and it’s

never been more important.

According to research, the time spent by

managers and employees in collaborative

activities has ballooned by more than 50 per

cent in recent years.

The proportion hovers around 80 per cent

at many companies, and this trend is likely

to continue. Teamwork, indeed, makes the

dream work.

The most worthwhile things I have ever

achieved haven’t been solo ventures – I was

part of a very good team, and I find that the

shared experiences are more meaningful

and fulfilling.

So, what makes a good ‘teammate’

employee? Here are the 10 key traits

to consider.

Displays emotional stability

Great teammates tend to be optimistic

and full of positive energy. They are deeply

invested in their organisation’s vision of the

future and their own their part in making

that future happen.

Having a good sense of emotional

intelligence in the workplace also ensures

a comfortable and productive environment

for everyone.

When someone can regulate their

emotional state and show empathy towards

their teammates, they report higher job

satisfaction and perform better.

Who wouldn’t want to work with someone

who is aware of both their own needs and

the needs of the team?

Understands their role

Great teammates are competent in their

roles, and they take full ‘ownership’ of

their area of responsibility – that is, they

completely understand the purpose of their

A great

teammate

listens to

feedback

and finds

ways to make

meaningful

improvements

because they

always want to

get better

role within the structure of the business and

are proactive in completing their duties.

This makes collaboration easier for

everyone else; it also fuels the success

of the business and benefits the rest

of the team.

In a 2015 study on behaviour in the

workplace, researchers found that when

individuals have ownership over their work,

they’re significantly more generous with

their time and resources.

Prioritises customer experience

In a competitive environment, how you

interact with customers and meet their

needs can be the deciding factor between

them choosing your business over another.

In fact, 86 per cent of shoppers say they will

pay more for better customer service.

Personalisation, customisation, a sense of

urgency and trust is what consumers want,

and a great teammate knows when to go

above and beyond.

Great teammates set the tone for everyone’s

behaviour and standard of service; their

dedication is contagious.

46 | July 2021


Business Strategy

Has a drive to win

The drive to win customers and outperform

the competition is essential to the success

of any sales team.

Competition is also one of the primary

driving factors of a productive work

environment, with 67 per cent of workers

saying that it’s a strong motivator for them

to give it their all and win.

If you want to win, you are hungry for the

challenge of competition – and that brings

out the best performance.

As a business owner, you need to surround

yourself with others who feel the same way

and can match that intensity.

Shares in success

Good teammates don’t care who gets

credit – they want the best for the team,

and they are genuinely happy for other

people’s success.

Recognising and celebrating team

members’ accomplishments improves

the whole team’s productivity, and in a

report published by employee engagement

platform TinyPulse, the majority of

participants said that having the respect

of their peers was the number-one reason

they went the ‘extra mile’ at work.

Solves problems

The past year has demonstrated how

important it is to have creative problemsolvers

in your business.

Organisations across the globe have had

to overhaul the way they provide services,

collaborate, and expand.

In an environment like that, business

owners need teammates who are curious

and open to innovative ideas.

Great teammates are committed to

learning continuously. They are willing to

test, experiment and improve in every facet

of their role. They recognise problems

quickly and solve them in creative and

effective ways.

Problem-solvers set up the businesses

and organisations in which they work

for resilience during times of uncertainty

and disruption.

Displays integrity

One of the most valuable traits in a

teammate is trust. According to David

Horsager, founder of management

consultancy firm Trust Edge Leadership

Institute, “A lack of trust is the biggest

expense in organisations.”

Horsager describes trust as the core that

holds together a company’s day-to-day

operations, and when things start to break

down – no matter the department or the

type of issue – a lack of trust is always the

common denominator.

However, trust isn’t just about reliability –

though of course everyone wants to work

with people who ‘have their back’.

Trust also means displaying integrity and

being willing to weigh in, challenge the

status quo and offer constructive feedback.

When trustworthy teammates call it

like they see it, business owners – and

colleagues – know that feedback will push

the business to reach its potential.

Open to coaching

The best teammates want to be challenged

and coached. To be ‘coachable’ is to have

the mental mindset to receive constructive

feedback and turn it into an opportunity

for improvement.

A great teammate listens to feedback

and finds ways to make meaningful

improvements because they always want to

get better. When the feedback is negative,

they are highly self-aware and don’t take

things personally.

Yet not all feedback is equal or effective;

in fact, only 14.5 per cent of managers

strongly agreed that they were effective in

providing feedback, according to a 2018

survey by US analytics firm Gallup.

The most effective teammates not only sort

through the feedback they receive to make

high-impact changes to their behaviour and

performance, but they also provide effective

feedback to their colleagues.

Knows when to disagree

The best teammates aren’t afraid of a little

healthy conflict and tend to be forthcoming

about their opinions.

DREAM

TEAM

Created by Creative Mania

from the Noun Project

Power of

positivity

Look for people

who bring out

the best in

themselves

and others

Striving for

excellence

Great employees

desire success

and aren’t afraid

to work for it – or

suggest ways to

improve

Truth and

honesty

Reliable and

trustworthy

staff are the gold

standard

When you encounter challenges and tough

decisions, it’s always great when someone

brings thoughtful arguments and alternative

perspectives to the table.

As a business owner, you won’t always

agree with your teammates, and sometimes

you can encounter a problem with no

clear solution.

In those cases where the business owner

must make a tough choice, a great

teammate always commits to the final

decision – even if it’s not the route they

would have chosen.

Commitment to the team’s direction helps

keep everyone on track and ensures that

the team remains unified when faced with

complicated situations.

Has a sense of fun

My motto is, “Work hard and have a blast

doing it!”

It may seem trivial, but morale is crucial

to performance in any business. When

someone is a team player on every front,

they make working together fun and

engaging every step of the way.

They bring out the best in their colleagues

and help motivate them, keeping their

mindset focused and positive; they uplift

and encourage.

If you want to be successful, surround

yourself with people who exemplify these

10 traits – and more importantly, strive to

be that kind of person. Most organisations

need more good teammates, especially

as the world becomes more connected,

collaborative and competitive.

As a team member at any level, I invite you

to consider this formative question: how do

I want to be remembered by the people I

work with?

The answer is important, so reflect on it and

write it down. Let this be your guide for how

you show up and what kind of contribution

you intend to make.

RYAN ESTIS helps companies to

embrace change, attack opportunity and

achieve breakthrough performance.

Visit: ryanestis.com

July 2021 | 47


BUSINESS

Selling

How to close the sale by asking

the tough questions

GREG GLADMAN provides a script to help retail staff successfully navigate the situation

when they are confronted with customers’ well-known sales roadblocks.

Retail can be challenging – and the

higher the price of the item, higher

the probability the customer will talk

themselves out of the purchase.

Every salesperson has heard a customer

say, “I need to think it over” and watched

them leave the store empty-handed, never

to return. So, how can they overcome this

sales ‘roadblock’?

Excuses, excuses

Customers buy based on emotion and

justify the purchase with logic.

For example, if there is a 50 per cent-off

sale and they love the piece of jewellery,

the emotional part of their brain convinces

the logical part to make the purchase

because of how much money they

will ‘save’ if they buy it now, while

it’s discounted.

In jewellery retail, the emotional

connection to the product is particularly

high – and yet the customer still frequently

walks out of the store without the item

they desire.

One of the most common excuses for

a lack of purchase, as told to jewellery

sales staff, is that the customer needs to

think it over.

Other variations of this include that they

need to get their partner’s permission

to buy the item, that it costs more than

they budgeted to spend, or that it’s not

exactly what they are looking for and they

will return to buy it once they have looked

around other stores.

Sometimes these excuses are the truth

and other times fiction; the key is to find out

if the customer can be convinced to make

the purchase today, or if they are likely to

make the purchase when followed up.

Put simply, is the excuse genuine, or is it

simply a way to end the sales conversation

completely?

A good start

The sales process starts with a greeting

when the customer first enters the store,

Taking a questioning approach can be an effective sales technique.

when the salesperson begins to build

rapport and trust. This influences their

ability to ask tough questions later.

Once trust and rapport have been

established, it becomes natural to ask the

customer about their budget and to get a

feel for why they want a specific item.

Next, the salesperson needs to understand

the customer’s buying criteria – that is, the

most important factor needed for them to

actually make a purchase.

The salesperson must build tension

or emotion around the purchase – for

example, the fear of missing out or the

pleasure of having an item they have

always wanted – and find a piece of

jewellery that fits their criteria.

At this point, the customer may say, “I need

to think it over,” which puts the salesperson

in a good position to respond by asking the

tough questions.

To know, just ask

The salesperson should start by

acknowledging the customer’s statement,

saying, “I understand that when you are

looking to purchase an amazing piece like

this, there is a tendency to think it over.”

Then, they should ask the first tough

question: “To help me understand, what

specifically do you need to think over that

has stopped you from buying today?”

Sometimes

these excuses

are the truth

and other

times fiction;

the key is to

find out if the

customer can

be convinced

to make the

purchase today

Let’s say the response is, “It is just a

little bit more that I have to spend,” the

salesperson can counter with the next

question: “If this was under your budget,

is there anything else that would stop you

from making this purchase today?”

Usually, a customer will say that there is

no other reason .

The salesperson can then respond with

the third question: “What is your budget

that you can commit to spending today?”

allowing the customer time to respond

with a numeric figure.

They can then follow up with the final

question: “If we could find a way to help you

come under that budget, could you make

the purchase today?”

This type of ‘presumptive close’ takes

away any other objections, and provided

that the salesperson can either make the

sale at the slightly lower price or provide a

financing option, the sale can be closed.

Alternatively, if the customer is still not

prepared to make the purchase, the

salesperson can try one last tactic –

gaining a commitment to follow up later

that day or the next day, via phone or email.

Many high-performing jewellery

salespeople have mastered this technique

of ‘re-engagement’ – giving themselves

another opportunity to close the sale.

However, if the customer won’t make this

commitment, the salesperson is then free

to focus their energy on other customers.

As a retailer, it’s important to equip your

sales team with the knowledge and ability

to overcome the “think it over” barrier by

asking the tough questions.

GREG GLADMAN is CEO of Objective

Assessment and founder of Sales &

Leadership Performance, an Australian

sales development organisation

focused on customised transformation

programs. Visit: saleslp.com

48 | July 2021


BUSINESS

Management

Why staff training matters most in

the changing retail environment

While the retail industry has remained resilient in the face of the COVID-19 upheaval,

the past 12 months have illustrated the importance of staff training, writes JOSH STRUTT.

The Australian retail industry has faced

a high degree of instability as a result of

the COVID-19 pandemic, from closing and

re-opening over and over, to navigating

government payments and disruptions to

supply chains and stock availability.

Despite these challenges, retail remains

the country’s second-largest employing

industry, according to the Australian

Bureau of Statistics (ABS), and recent

retail turnover reports have shown

positive trends.

At the heart of all this change is retail’s

most important asset – people.

As Brian Walker, CEO Retail Doctor Group,

explains, “Retail is and always will be a

predominantly ‘people’ business. Think

about the top 10 bricks-and-mortar

retailers globally, and it becomes very

apparent – they all have the ‘people’ edge.”

Indeed, as the retail industry navigates its

way to the other side of the pandemic and

beyond, businesses are looking to new

ways of working and re-building a smarter

and more efficient workforce.

For example, Woolworths announced

a significant investment of $50 million

to prepare its workforce for the retail

industry of the future; as Brad Banducci,

CEO Woolworths Group, said, “Around the

globe, retail is changing at the fastest pace

we’ve seen in many decades.”

With this in mind, retail businesses of all

sizes must change the way they manage

the workforce, viewing training and

development as a necessity rather than a

‘box-ticking’ exercise.

Finding focus

Employees in any business want to feel

valued, motivated and developed; in return,

they contribute more, achieve their goals

and strive for brilliance at every turn.

The question is, how seriously do retail

business owners really invest in their staff,

from senior leadership to the sales floor?

David Rumbens, a partner at Deloitte

Access Economics, says, “While

Online modules are a cost-effective way to train multiple staff across stores.

technology is driving change in the way

we work, and the work we do, it’s ultimately

not a substitute for people,” warning that

there is a large skills shortage across

the workforce.

Some may say the answer is in hiring new

staff. However, it is estimated that the

average replacement cost of a salaried

employee is the equivalent of six to nine

months of their salary.

Thus, it makes financial sense for

businesses to focus on improving the skills

of their existing employees.

So, how should a retail business maximise

their investment in the right type of training

for their workforce?

Business priorities

The number-one requirement when it

comes to training staff is attitude; if the

employee isn’t interested in being coached,

save your time and money! Attitude

will determine the training return-oninvestment

every time.

The second necessity is goal setting

and measuring the outcomes that the

training should deliver, as training without

measurable improvement is like pouring

money into a black hole.

Finally, blended learning that engages the

employee’s senses is the most potent form

Retail

businesses of

all sizes must

change the way

they manage

the workforce,

viewing

training and

development

as a necessity

rather than a

‘box-ticking’

exercise

of training and particularly necessary for

senior staff. It involves combining online

modules with classroom-style training,

one-on-one coaching for further retention

and follow-ups with the trainee.

However, blended learning it is often

financially-intensive.

Take it online

Fortunately, when blended learning isn’t

feasible, online modules can be a simple

and cost-effective way to train staff. Here

are some of the benefits:

Allows for efficiency – Trainers can

condense hours of material into a

20–30-minute module that learners can

access any time from any device.

Caters to all learning styles – Online

learning combines visual and auditory

components, with voice-overs, videos,

activities and other interactive techniques

to keep learners engaged.

Makes tracking progress simple – Realtime

reporting and notifications mean

trainers can easily track learners’ success,

while learners can see their progress

which also keeps them engaged.

Improves knowledge retention – Learners

can review the content as many times

as they like. At the same time, content

is broken down into digestible ‘bites’ of

information, making it easier to retain.

Keeps training consistent – Online

modules allow trainers to deliver the same

message across multiple channels and

locations, reaching more employees and

ensuring they are trained consistently.

Modules can also be altered quickly and

easily, giving trainers flexibility.

Whichever strategy business owners

employ to train staff – so long as staff have

the right attitude and measurable goals –

the results far outweigh the cost.

JOSH STRUTT is Retail Doctor Group’s

strategy analyst. His background is in

maximising operational efficiency to drive

growth. Visit: retaildoctor.com.au

July 2021 | 49


BUSINESS

Marketing & PR

Looking for – and finding – a business’

‘lost customers’

While many businesses focus on new customer acquisition, BARRY URQUHART extolls

the benefits of re-engaging past shoppers who may have been forgotten.

Intentionally or, as is more often the

case, unintentionally, a considerable

percentage of a every retail business’

customers are ‘burned’ – left unregistered,

unacknowledged, and ultimately forgotten.

This is an expensive reality, as the

revenue and potential referral value

of these ‘lost’ customers needs to be

replaced with new ones – and fast, if

cashflow is to be maintained.

Interestingly, few business owners and

managers have formulated, documented

and implemented strategies and tactics

to address lost customers.

Accelerating trend

Speaking generally, many businesses

have forecast a ‘churn-rate’ – the rate of

customer attrition – of around 20 per cent

per annum, though the actual figures do

vary depending on the sector, geographic

locality, and the size and nature of the

individual business.

However, a doubling of traditionally

accepted rates has not been uncommon

during the pandemic.

As a result, some businesses have

turned their focus to customer “farming”

– attempting to “win” new customers

through enticement, canvassing and

development.

Yet, at the turn of the Millennium and the

release of my two books, Serves You Right!

and Service Please!, detailed research had

already established that it was some six

times easier, cheaper and faster to retain

customers than it was to attract new ones.

The vagaries of the coronavirus and the

innate transactional nature of online

purchasing has since elevated that ratio to

10 times or more.

Estimates of lifetime value and duration of

the customer relationship have changed

significantly, with low expectations of

loyalty, referral and repeat business.

Defence strategies

Notwithstanding the high velocity and

An untapped market of previous purchasers may be lost in your database.

volume of customer attrition, it is evident

from consumer feedback, behaviour,

perceptions and expressions that many

service providers lack disciplined,

structured and supported follow-up and

follow-through initiatives.

Put simply, many business leaders

readily accept the loss of customers as

an unavoidable reality; few conduct ‘exit

interviews’ to identify key causal factors

of customer attrition and opportunities to

recover lost customers.

In this case, ignorance is not a virtue – it is

expensive and unnecessary.

To ameliorate customer attrition, initiating

personal contact is a sound first step; a

concerted effort to reacquaint with past

customers who have been ‘lost’ to the

business during the past 12, 24 or 36

months can be fulfilling, rewarding and

financially beneficial.

Many businesses find in them a rich pool of

‘new’ demand, revenue and profits as many

past customers have, in the intervening

years or months, been exposed to lessthan-satisfactory

competitors.

As an aside, it is important for businesses

to regularly update records, as people

frequently change their address, mobile

number, and life circumstances; within

nine months, active customer databases

can be reduced by as much as 60 per cent.

Many business

leaders readily

accept the loss

of customers as

an unavoidable

reality; few

conduct ‘exit

interviews’ to

identify key

causal factors

of customer

attrition and

opportunities

to recover lost

customers

Additionally, like past customers, a

significant percentage of market research

respondents are flattered to be asked

about their opinions, values, beliefs,

perceptions and intentions.

These are emotional responses and

foster a belief of personal importance

and relevance, which can acts as a pure

subliminal force to encourage positive

affect and engagement with a business.

Regularly talking to, and interacting with,

existing, past, and prospective customers

is powerful – marketing is, after all,

founded on opportunism, communication

and satisfying needs!

Using the data

Strategies, tactics and actions that seek to

redress customer attrition rates need to

be planned, monitored, analysed, refined,

extended and supported.

Moreover, they should – like all strategic

marketing plans – be scheduled,

reviewed and measured for efficiency and

effectiveness. These initiatives can’t afford

to be random, casual ‘time-fillers’.

Ultimately, ‘churn-rates’ represent

scope for broadening and extending the

customer base; indeed, lost customers

can reasonably be deemed to be an

attractive target market, as noted

earlier in this article.

History and countless case studies have

established that retrieved customers can

typically and readily be converted to be

strong advocates and ‘ambassadors’ for

the business.

In the sporting arena, coaches are inclined

to recite the adage, “The game is not lost

until the final siren is sounded.”

So, when it comes to lost customers,

play on!

BARRY URQUHART is managing

director of Marketing Focus. He has

been a consultant to the retail industry

around the world since 1980. Visit:

marketingfocus.net.au

50 | July 2021


BUSINESS

Logged On

How to use Instagram Shopping to

increase your e-commerce sales: Part I

Retailers who are aiming to increase their e-commerce sales should consider

using the social media tool Instagram Shopping, writes SIMON DELL in this two-part series.

In the digital marketplace, businesses are

looking for any advantage they can get

over their competitors – and one of those

advantages is using Instagram Shopping.

Part one of this guide to Instagram Shopping

details the purpose of this tool and how it

can enrich a business’ Instagram account.

It’s estimated that Instagram has over

1 billion active users each month worldwide;

in Australia alone, there are close to 10

million active users, which equates to

approximately 40 per cent of the population.

Businesses without an active Instagram

presence are missing out on a large

potential market.

Meanwhile, retailers must use every tool at

their disposal to put their products in front of

potential customers, and Instagram Shops

offers another avenue to do so.

What is an Instagram Shopping?

An Instagram Shopping allows e-commerce

or omnichannel businesses to promote their

products directly on Instagram.

Most importantly, it lets Instagram users

browse the business’ entire catalogue

without leaving the app.

This is significant because if people are

browsing through Instagram, they generally

want to stay there rather than be directed to

an external website.

With an Instagram Shop, sellers can also

tag products in their business account’s

posts and Instagram Stories, which lets

users discover key product information with

one click.

Essentially, an Instagram Shop has almost

all of the functions of an e-commerce store.

The platform is even starting to integrate

transactions through its Checkout function

– making it even easier for shoppers to

buy directly.

While Checkout is currently only available

to eligible US business accounts, however

Instagram plans to roll out worldwide

access in the near future.

Make the most of Instagram’s e-commerce functionality with Shopping.

The benefits

There are several reasons a retail

business should consider adding an

Instagram Shop to their account.

Firstly, it’s another channel through which

to sell products – but more importantly,

it’s a large channel. If a business owner

has worked hard to gain followers on

Instagram, they should be monetising that

effort in any way they can.

Being able to sell directly to followers who

are already interested in the business is

an efficient way to improve the bottom line

because it:

• Makes it easier for customers to buy –

Instagram Shopping removes many

of the barriers that previously existed

within Instagram for retailers.

For starters, the platform doesn’t allow

business owners to post links in posts, and

it only allows one link in the account’s bio.

When users are happily browsing

Instagram, it’s difficult and cumbersome

to direct them to check the account’s bio

for a link, and then take another step to

follow that link to the business’ website.

With an Instagram Shop, the user can view

product information and pricing, as well

as browse the business’ catalogue, then

and there.

The addition of Checkout means users

By tagging

products using

Instagram

Shopping,

business

owners place

these items

right in front of

customers who

are most likely

to buy them

can buy directly on Instagram, and once

they have made a single purchase on either

Instagram or Facebook – which owns

Instagram – their details are already saved.

• Saves time – One of the keys to effective

marketing is to meet customers where they

already are, rather than trying to entice them

to another location.

Since there are a large number of people

browsing Instagram every day already,

it makes sense to take the online store

to them by integrating it with Instagram.

From a ‘customer experience’ point of

view, an Instagram Shop ticks all the boxes

because the user has all the information they

need clearly displayed in front of them in a

familiar and accessible way.

• Puts products in the spotlight – With

Instagram Shopping, the business owner

can simply tag products in posts.

When they do so, users can click on a

little shopping bag icon to see the product

information instantly.

Even better, once a product is tagged in

a post, it automatically gets displayed on

Instagram’s ‘Shopping Explore’ tab. This

allows even more Instagram users to see the

product – even those who are not following

the specific business’ account.

Additionally, if users are browsing the

Shopping Explore tab, it usually indicates

they have a strong intention to buy

something. Therefore, by tagging products

using Instagram Shopping, business owners

place these items right in front of customers

who are most likely to buy them.

Now that the purpose, mechanism, and

benefits of having Instagram Shopping have

been explained, part two –to be published

next month – will explore how to set up and

make the most of an Instagram Shop.

SIMON DELL is co-founder and CEO

of Cemoh, a Brisbane-based firm that

provides marketing staff on demand.

He specialises in digital marketing and

brand management. Visit: cemoh.com

July 2021 | 51


My Bench

Jim George

Rohan Jewellers, Perth WA

Age 72 • Years in Trade 55 • Training Milton Technical College Apprenticeship • First job C R Roberts Jewellers Other Qualifications Apprentice of the Year 1968

SIGNATURE PIECE

‘AUTUMN’ RING

FINALIST, DIAMOND GUILD AUSTRALIA

JEWELLERY AWARDS 2018

This beautiful platinum and rose gold, pear-shaped pink and

white diamond ring, named ‘Autumn’, was created for Rohan

Jewellers. The pink diamond is set in rose gold, with the

surrounding white, pear and marquise-cut diamonds claw-set

in platinum. The design includes contrasting, grain-set split

shoulders on one side and flowing, ‘rubbed in’ diamonds on the

opposite side. A finely pierced-out design features inside the top

of the ring. It is an amazing looking ring!

4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE The beauty of natural

diamonds has always intrigued me and in recent

years, I have been fortunate to work on some

extraordinary stones – including amazing pink,

blue, champagne and white diamonds. The range

of colours allows the maker to create a stunning,

custom work of fine jewellery art.

4FAVOURITE METAL I make most pieces in

platinum and rose or yellow gold, depending on the

diamond colour. Platinum is a great metal to work

with and the finished pieces stand the test of time.

4FAVOURITE TOOL Laser welding and engraving

machines have provided the greatest leap in

technology during my life in the jewellery trade.

Lasers have sped up the manufacturing time and

help with the perfect placement of hand-made parts.

I use the laser often to push things along.

4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY A new addition to my

bench is the Pulse Graver. For setting and engraving,

it is hard to beat. It takes up very little room and is a

growing favourite in the workshop.

4BEST PART OF THE JOB Seeing the customer’s

happy, emotional reaction when they receive their

special piece of jewellery! It makes it all worthwhile.

4WORST PART OF THE JOB I think a lot of jewellers

would agree that finding enough time in each day to

get everything done is sometimes impossible.

4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER Think beyond the

usual designs of jewellery and the ways to make

them, whether it is the precious metals or the tools

we use to create them.

4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Be satisfied at the end

of the job that you have done the best work you can –

and aim to do it every day.

4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH The

polishing dust and acid fumes we have all inhaled at

one time or another is a major health concern. I wear

a mask regularly.

4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE I have gained so

much from the jewellery trade, including a terrific

number of jeweller mates over the years. There is

also the satisfaction of having a lot of happy people

wearing something I created and knowing they and

their family and friends will come back for more.

52 | July 2021


OPINION

Soapbox

The tribulations of light

JOHN CHAPMAN explores how light impacts our perception of a diamond and

the common mistakes and misconceptions jewellers may unwittingly harbour.

Light – I have always liked it. It transmits,

reflects, refracts, diffracts, and gives

gemstones their dazzling life.

The absorption of light across visible

wavelengths gives a gemstone – and most

objects, for that matter – colour. Absorption

of green light renders a diamond pink, while

absorption of blue makes them yellow.

Since most ‘white’ diamonds have a slight

yellow tinge, then injecting a bit of blue

into them should make them more white

looking, hence the blue tissue inside

common brifkas – the envelopes or packets

used to hold diamonds.

Jewellers also rely on light to show off

their product, but most of them do it badly

– though if it is any consolation, museums

do it worse!

The lighting ‘experts’ come along, decide

darkness is trendy and assume that the

stones will stand out like beacons.

I’ve seen walls and ceilings painted black.

The lighting technician points a few

spotlights at the jewellery and thinks,

“Job done”. But look at any diamond in

such surroundings and they look like

polished coal!

It is such a pity when a customer can’t see

the difference between a D and M-colour

stone in a cabinet, and a tragedy when

visitors to the Smithsonian see the Hope

Diamond not as a vivid blue marvel that

it is, but more as faceted black glass with

periodic flashes of blue as it rotates.

I should know, I’ve seen it in person – and

indeed, overheard a saddened visitor say,

“It’s very disappointing,” as I tried to explain

the problem to a curator.

Diamonds need to be thought of as a

collection of mirrors; if the surroundings

are dark, a mirror will look dark.

Besides absorption, diamonds can emit light

– commonly called fluorescence – which I

think is their most maligned property.

When stuck for conversation, I often

ask jewellers, “What do you think of

fluorescence?” and all too often they reply,

“I always buy ‘none’ fluorescence,” with

mutterings of “oily look”.

That provides me with an opportunity to

launch a discussion about the reality of

diamond fluorescence.

Having helped HRD Antwerp – one of the

world’s leading authorities on diamond

grading and education – conduct an

extensive consumer study on the topic a few

years ago, I have learnt a thing or two about

‘the glow’!

Several decades ago, fluorescence was

actually considered desirable and stones

exhibiting the phenomenon attracted a

premium. Sometime between now and then

such stones became persona non grata and

were discounted heavily.

“This stone would be worth $60,000 more

if it wasn’t graded strong fluorescence,”

lamented one diamond dealer in Hong

Kong, showing me a 10-carat F-colour.

Rumour has it that fluorescence got a bad

name when a new mine came on-stream

that was outside De Beers’ control; it just

so happened that the diamonds from that

deposit tended to be quite fluorescent.

So, to dissuade dealers from buying the

renegade mine’s stones, consumers were

told that fluorescence was a bad quality

and the label stuck. That’s just one of the

legends, but I’m open to other theories!

If a diamond’s fluorescence is graded as

‘none’ then most people reasonably expect

to see black when observing it under

ultraviolet light, but invariably there is a

glow. Almost all diamonds fluoresce, it is

just a matter of degree; the glow must be

I’ve seen walls

and ceilings

painted black.

The lighting

technician

points a few

spotlights at

the jewellery

and thinks,

“Job done”.

But look at any

diamond in such

surroundings

and they

look like

polished coal!

below a certain master reference to be

graded ‘none’.

The difficulty laboratories had – and

probably still have – is that their customers,

in their quest for ‘none’, grumble when they

receive a grading of ‘faint’.

So, to keep the loyal customers happy,

I reckon the ‘none’ threshold has crept up

over the years. My theory is supported by

the evidence that in 1997 the proportion

of diamonds graded ‘none’ by GIA was 65

per cent and analysing the recent offerings

online, I note the figure is now 80 per cent.

I’m sure the fluorescence profile of mines

hasn’t changed that much over time!

Going back to the HRD Antwerp study,

numerous people were shown diamonds

of D-J colour having different fluorescent

intensities. It was found that the apparent

colour in daylight could be elevated by

several colour grades thanks to the

fluorescence; a strongly fluorescent J

colour could look D!

So, there you have it – nowadays you

can buy a diamond discounted for its

fluorescence and then it looks like a stone

of better colour and hence of higher price.

In some extreme instances a diamond can

look milky or oily, but a GIA study found that

only 0.2 per cent of fluorescing diamonds

fell into that category.

And one more thing – for the fluorescence

to manifest itself, ultraviolet light needs

to strike it. Artificial lighting is free of

ultraviolet – isn’t it indoors when diamonds

are almost exclusively seen and admired?

Name: John Chapman

Business: Delta Diamond

Laboratory/Gemetrix

Position: Director

Location: Perth, WA

Years in the industry: 35

54 | July 2021


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