Narratives of Ladakh

Narratives
of Laadakh
Documenting the tangible and intangible aspects
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Copyright Indus University 2016
Published by
Rupa, Co
7/16, Ansari ROad, Daryaganj,
New Delhi 110 002
Sales centres: Ahmedabad | Mumbai | Kolkata
| Delhi |...
All rights reserved.
Nopart of the publication may be reproduced or
transmitted in any form or by any means ...
Printed in India by
Gopsons Papers Ltd.
A-14 Sector 60
Noida 201 301
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Helene Thebault | Edoardo Ferrari |
Urmimala Nag| Mudita Pasari | Farzan
Dalal | Tanvi Patil | Nikita Goyal | Rohit
Dhawle | Ajita Deodhar | Lavina Pothen
| Bhargav Padhiyar | Nayanatara
Tampi | Rishabh Wadhwa | Jahnavi
Acharya | Jasma Vekaria | Vatsal Patel
| Kashvi Vora | Zubin patel | Jugal Naik
| Vivek Shah | Smit Anand | Harsh
Barot | APoojan Shah | Pooja Nagaraj |
Divyarajsinh Rana
Participants
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On site collaborators
Debashish Borah
Muzzammil Hussain Munshi
Ajaz Hussain Munshi
Bhanupratap Sharma
Vivek Sheth
Iliyaz Ansari
Editorial team
Authors
Bhanupratap Sharma
Vivek Sheth
Editors
Bhanupratap Sharma
Ishita Jain
Shubhanyu Jain
Student Editoral Team
Pooja Nagaraj - 3rd year
Vatsal Patel - 3rd year
Kashvi Vora - 4th year
Acknowledgements
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Objective of the workshop
Narratives of Ladakh, a collaborative summer programme
hosted jointly by Indus university, INTACH Ladakh Chapter
and Central Asian Museum, Kargil, was a collaboration of
architects, conservationists, a cartographer and graphic
designers, both students and professionals. It aimed towards
studying the architecture, understanding the built legacy of
the mountain people and inspire a study of Islamic art, crafts
and architecture beyond the plains of mainland India.
The study involved documenting the tangible and intangible
aspects of the region that acted as a generator for the existing
spatial configuration responsible for the Kargil town. The
study focused on the influence of climate, material, and
confluence of culture on architecture and the fabric of the
old town Kargil to re-engage with Kargil, understand forces
that acted in ancient time in shaping of a trade town and to
develop a multidisciplinary documentation and collaborative
understanding.
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Preface
Narratives of Ladakh, a summer programme hosted jointly
hosted by Indus university, INTACH Ladakh Chapter and
Central Asian Museum, Kargil, aimed towards studying
the architecture, understanding the built legacy of the
mountain people and inspire a study of Islamic art, crafts
and architecture beyond the plains of mainland India.
It aimed towards documenting the tangible and intangible
aspects that acted as a generator for the existing spatial
configuration responsible for the Kargil town. The study
focused on the influence of climate, material, and confluence
of culture on architecture and the fabric of the old town
Kargil. It was a collaborative workshop between architects,
conservationist, cartographers and graphic designer, both
students and professionals.
The objective was to re-engage with Kargil, understand forces
that acted in ancient time in shaping of a trade town on the
confluence of silk routes and to develop a multidisciplinary
project and collaborative understanding.
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Kargil 12
Hundarman 40
Framing the forgotten 82
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At Kargil, the intervention happenend
to study the intangible aspects that
shaped the trade town while Silk Route
operated in its full glory. At the same
time, the transformation of the town
due to the end of Silk Route, Kargil
becoming a war zone and a shift in the
needs to people, were noted.
The method of reresentation is
superimposition of narratives on facts.
Kargil
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Kargil as “a place to stay” has enjoyed a rich and long
history of trade and intermingling of communities,
and as such, is of immense value in terms of its cultural
and built heritage.
Kargil, known originally as “Khar-Gil,” literally means
“a place to stay.” The town was an integral part of the
Silk Route. Due to its strategic position apropos the
surrounding towns of Zanskar, Leh, traders would
stop-by, stay for weeks and trade goods with each other
here.
In the summer of 2015, a group of young learners
travelled to the place with an objective to capture that
cultural heritage. They had only heard of the Silk Route
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but were yet to be introduced to the stories. Here, they
met Ajaz Hussain Munshi who owns the Central Asian
Museum and is also trying to further tourism in and
around Kargil. He recalls the trade town of Kargil when
the Silk Route flourished.
He brings to life the traders who travelled from Ladakh,
Kashmir, Zanskar, Skardu to Kargil.
Sharing facts about the Silk Route, he recalls and
recites a story of an old friend of his.
Tariq Ahmed Tibeth-Baqal, a traveller from Bota
Kadal, Kashmir, travelled to Kargil every year. He
braved the dangerous route via Zozilla Pass to get to
Kargil and trade his Pashmina shawls for products from
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all over the world. In return for his fine Pashmina wool
and shawls, he would get items like tea, salt, apricots
and even imported products from Germany and Italy
like razors, buttons etc.
In 1947, with the partition of India into India and
Pakistan, the trade routes got severed. Trade suffered
gravely and many families were split in the process.
Many Sikh and Hindu families had to move out of Kargil
to Jammu or other lower parts of the mainland India.
These families had to cross snow covered mountainous
regions in mid-December, very careful to walk only at
night. Unfortunately, they could not go further than
Drass, and were stuck for about a month as the snow
was deep. They were given shelter by very kind families
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in Drass, who were later harassed by religious fanatics.
In September of 1977, Tariq’s grandson, Nazir Ahmed
Tibeth-Baqal crossed the Zozilla Pass to Kargil with
fellow travellers. It is a tortuous yet scenic route to take.
Passing amidst the snow-capped mountains he entered
Kargil, a lively town with people belonging to different
communities. He moves along the narrow streets, past
the small vendors. He guides his horse on to see his
friend, Imtiaz. He greets people he sees on his way, as
a mark of respect. Imtiaz was a native to Kargil and
belonged to one of the most important and powerful
families of the town. Imtiaz and Nazir’s grandfathers
were trade friends and this relationship had helped
Nazir’s grandfather in securing accommodation in the
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sarai on his visit every year, despite the huge crowd
that poured in from different cities to trade.
Nazir recalls all the stories he heard about the town
when trade flourished along the Silk Route. The street
which was once was the busiest of Kargil is now all
pale and comatose. Nazir wonders what might have
happened that transformed the place over these years.
He hardly finds anything like an extent that it no more
bears any resemblance to the place his grandfather
described in his stories. He walks along the narrow
lane, heading towards a worn out earthen structure
with a short wooden door.
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On stepping into the sarai, through the door, his
feet land at a narrow, sparsely-lit passage leading
up to a space wide enough to shelter the horses. The
stable was lit by the huge courtyard with a horse
dung pit in the centre. He finds out that it hardly
has anything like what his grandfather had once
told him.
... no more bears any
resemblance to the
place his grandfather
described...
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Around the pit there were some enclosed spaces where
goods carried by the travellers and the fodder for the
cattle would have been stored. Towards one end there
was a wooden staircase leading up to the first floor.
The first floor consisted of rooms where traders would
reside, around the courtyard, which opened towards
the corridor. The small openings in the room limited
the ventilation and helped to keep the room warm
during winter. The fireplace in the corner would have
served as a hearth. These traders would carry their
bedding and as such did not demand well-furnished
spaces.
The spaces towards one side of the courtyard would
have been used to trade goods.
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Three rooms had extended balconies that opened to
the Suru River. The place that saw a variety of people
pouring in with their products; the horses neighing
and interacting with their kind; the excitement as old
friends met up – the place where people would have
taken stock of what would they barter and what had to
be paid for, a place buzzing with life and trade was lost
in between the concrete buildings.
Nazir steps into the balcony facing the river. The sound
of the gushing water fills his ears and he feels strangely
relaxed. He feels the wind blowing across his face as he
stares at the bridge connecting the land on either side
of the river, recalling a story of traders who camped in
tents when sarai had no space for them.
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Tashir Namgyal Manepah, was coming in from Khalsi,
near Leh. He belonged to the Boto community and
traded in tea and barley. Tashir Namgyal approached
reached Kargil from across the Suru river with his
caravan of laden horses and now- tired men.
He too had had a long journey and was looking forward
to a comfortable stay at the sarai. As he approached
the river, his heart sunk. The river was flooded and
the only bridge connecting him to his destination
was broken. He had heard of a similar incident from
travellers a couple of years ago. He was new to the
trade and was making the trip only a second time. He
decided to let his pony swim across and take support
from the tail to swim against a strong current. After
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toiling for hours and making trips to and fro the banks,
he got his people to get the entire load across the river.
Finally, they were on the banks of Kargil, with all their
belongings.
After drying themselves they moved quickly towards
the sarai. To their dismay, the sarai had no room to
accommodate them. They moved back towards the
river, tied their horses to the tree trunk in the shade
and went towards another sarai; which was fully
occupied too.
The caravan often carried their own tents, food, cattle
and other supplies along with them. They knew that
despite their hospitable attitude, the inhabitants of
Kargil would not be able to supply them with food for
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their entire stay. They would dig the ground and store
their cattle there for warmth. The women had carried
their pots and pans; a cooking area was set up, with a
burning hearth for a home-like feel.
The cool breeze blowing across interrupts Nazir’s
thoughts.
He was standing in the balcony overlooking the river
and suddenly notices a familiar silhouette down there.
He was delighted to see Imtiaz at the sarai. He carefully
climbs down the broken staircase and walks out of
the sarai to meet his friend. Their happiness has no
bounds. They have met after quite a few years and have
lots of stories to exchange.
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Imtiaz insists to take Nazir around the town. While
walking along the old street, Nazir notices a man
in his 60s, walk out of an old house. Imtiaz greets
Sibtehassan and introduces him to Nazir.
Sibtehassan Mah-to-pah was a resident of Balti Bazaar,
Kargil. His father had moved to Kargil from Skardu
when trade was flourishing in the town. He traded
in fresh and dried apricots. Carrying forward the
tradition of his father’s trade he would meet travellers
from various places and exchange his apricots to obtain
salt, tea, barley etc. His family now owned a beautiful
three-story house. It was the traditional Balti house
built of Stone and mud. Nazir observes the terraces
being employed for sitting, drying the apricots and
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spices, while the ground floor served as the shop and
storage.
The three traders meet at the Balti bazaar and swap
stories, while they exchange goods. Each brings their
goods and decides the quantum exchanged or the
amount to be paid to one another. Trade was usually
done on trust and was a peaceful affair.
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Days passed. One day, while they sat on the porch of
the house, discussing trade, Nazir noticed Haji Gulam
Mohammad Gonpa on the street. He was a Purkhi
runner and had set off with a note for Nazir Ahmed. He
was passing on a message all the way from Bota Kadal.
Nazir Ahmed was the proud father of a daughter and
was being asked to come back soon. Nazir’s joy knew
no bounds and after having replied through the same
runner, went about closing all his trade deals – his new
born daughter was waiting for him, as was he to see
her.
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As soon as he was done, he started packing up his
belongings and asked the members of his caravan to
prepare for leaving as well. Heavy rain forced his hand,
and as eager as he was to leave, he decided to wait for
the rain to stop. There also came news of early snow
in the higher mountains and the Zozilla Pass being
shut till the weather averts. Weeks passed and soon
Nazir Ahmed realises that he was stuck in Kargil for
the winter. He reluctantly decides to stay back and stop
trying to leave.
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Sibtehassan gets the news that Nazir Ahmed is staying
in Kargil, so offers him a place to stay the winter -
his home. Sibtehassan’s warmth and earnestness
convinces Nazir Ahmed, who gratefully accepts the
former’s invitation. He soon moves into the Balti
household. It is located towards one of the ends on the
old street of Kargil. Lush carpets from Persia covered
the floor; beautiful hand-embroidered cushions and
bolsters sat on the mattress. He was served traditional
butter tea in intricately painted ceramic cups and Nazir
soon realised he had developed a flavour for the local
drink and cuisine.
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He was grateful to the family and would always be on
the lookout to help them in small tasks like raking the
snow off the roof, or helping shift requirements from
the shop to living spaces on the first floor. The second
floor had windows larger than those on the lower levels
and was used by the family to catch some sun in the
winter months. Nazir would keenly observe the lady of
the house preserve meat, fruits and vegetables in the
now snowy backyard.
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He had started to settle in well, when a blacksmith
came to stay with the family. The blacksmith would
make locks and other containers. He stayed with the
family for about a month and did his work, while his
food and lodging was taken care of. He had been to
so many places and lived with so many families, that
he had many stories to tell. He would talk about the
Yarkhandis, the Mogols and Zanskaris. He would sit
by the candle-light at night and tell tales while the
women knit next to him.
Soon the winter festivities began in Kargil where
communities would celebrate the decline of biting
winter in January. They would invite all members of the
family and extended family for a feast. The celebration
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would go on, people would visit each other and the
married women would stay at their maternal homes for
some weeks.
Nazir Ahmed started enjoying his stay as he met many
people, intermingled with the Shias, the Sikhs, the
Hindus and the Buddhists. He was awestruck by the
varied communities and the intermingling of people
and made many friends. Even as the winter waned, his
friends took him to enjoy the winter sports in Kargil
and Drass- Archery and horse polo.
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By the time the snow had melted completely, he was
well settled in the landscape. The place had made so
much impact in his life that he decided to make it his
home and called for his family from Bota Kadal. Soon
his entire household had shifted. His goods would
come in from his hometown in Kashmir and he would
trade them with traders from within and outside of
Kargil. His trade flourished and his family lived happily
in Kargil for many years to come.
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The main settlement of Hundarman
Broq is a balti village older than 500
years, close to the international border
with Pakistan. Abandoned since 1971,
the settlement is the only existing
example of its kind today.
The settlement of Hunderman
comprises of houses on a cliff built of
dry masonry random rubble walls in
levels and terrace farming. Since it was
a community living, there were many
interactive spaces.
The main occupation in this region is
agriculture. Due to the topography of
the land, farming is done on contours.
Hundarman
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Cluster 1
This is a schematic sketch of the site
section of the settlement in Hundarman
Broq, cut along the slope of the
mountain. The construction has been
done in multiple levels according to the
slope. The edges of the cliff are not cut
and the structure is built using stone
and timber. The staggering of contours
follows the slope of the mountain.
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Level 1 (Ground Floor) - This is the ground
floor plan of the entire stretch of the settlement
in Hundarman Broq. The typology of the
settlement was governed by the functions.
This lower-most level is the pit level where all
the human waste got collected and was further
used as manure. The settlement is divided into
2 clusters with five houses each. The houses
shared the walls and had multiple levels. The
masses were broken by voids and a difference in
the levels were created.
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Level 2 (first floor) - The floor levels of each
house varied due to the topography of the
place. This floor consisted of cattle shed and
storage space for fodder, in each house.
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Level 3 (second floor) - The habitable spaces
were placed in the floor above the cattle shed.
They were dark rooms with kitchen in the
centre so that the fire kept the entire space
evenly warm. There was a small opening that
let in a bit of light to enter inside. There was a
small opening in the flat roof to let the smoke
out. It could be closed at times of snow and rain.
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Level 4 (third floor) - The third floor had
other spaces that served as sleeping areas
and storage space for the grains. Families
in olden days had more members. Thus to
accommodate everyone, the houses needed
to have multiple spaces.
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Level 5 (fourth floor) - Fourth floor consisted
of a long semi open space with multiple
columns where fodder was stored and dried
during the summers. In the enclosed spaces,
they also stored the cereals they cultivated.
This space was shared by all the houses.
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Level 6 (fifth floor) - The fifth floor had
other spaces that served as storage space for
the grains. Harvesting of the grains were
done on these terraces.
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Level 7 (sixth floor) - This served as the
terrace with a small semi open space to
shelter the goods.
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Cluster 2
Clockwise from top: view of
cluster 2, view of first floor of,
view of upper levels.
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Level 2 (first floor) - The floor levels of each
house varied due to the topography of the
place. This floor consisted of cattle shed and
storage space for fodder, in each house.
The cattle shed had further partitions to
restrict movement of the cattle inside and to
store fodder and water for a longer time.
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Level 4 (third floor) - Fourth floor consisted
of a long semi open space with multiple
columns where fodder was stored and dried
during the summers. In the enclosed spaces
they also stored the cereals they cultivated.
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Level 3 (second floor) - The habitable spaces
were placed in the floor above the cattle shed.
They were dark rooms with kitchen in the
centre so that the fire kept the entire space
evenly warm. Walls had small openings to
let the light penetrate in. There was a small
opening in the flat roof to let the smoke out.
It could be closed at times of snow and rain.
Other spaces served as sleeping areas.
Families in olden days had more members.
Thus, to accommodate them, all the houses
needed to have multiple spaces.
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Old Settlement
The old settlement of Hundarman is
oriented towards the North and Northeast.
It is built on a cliff edge in multiple
levels. It has been constructed using
timber and stone. The openings are
smaller to avoid wind from entering in.
Above: Old settlements in
Hundarman, Opposite: New
settlements in Hundarman.
New Settlement
The walls of the ground floor are built
using stones while the ones in the first
floor
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Comparing the built forms of
the two settlements
Old Settlement
There has been a gradual change in the
typology of the house forms governed
by the site conditions .
Spaces: It had compact and closely
designed spaces. One room was used
as a Kitchen, sleeping space and as a
storage space.
a result of the need to keep the place
warm. Also, the height depended on
the length of timber members available
that were used in columns and doors.
Construction technique: Ramdom
rubble masonry was used without any
binding material to hold the stones
together.
Windows: Small windows helped in
avoiding the wind from entering in,
hence the place was warmer.
Height of the space: The spaces had
low height of about 1.6 metres. This was
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New Settlement
The houses in the new settlement were
scattered due to the topography of the
area, hence were independent. They
had larger openings as the walls were
made using dressed stones. The interior
spaces were larger in comparison to the
old. This change was favoured by the
availability of land area.
Spaces: It is open and spacious. There
are different rooms to serve distinct
functions. Also, the number of rooms
increased.
Height of the space: The spaces have
considerably lofty ceilings. The average
height of a space is about 2.5 metres.
This is a result of the use of materials
and construction technique.
Construction technique: Dressed
stones have been used in walls and
bound using mud mortar. Due to the
precise edges of the stones used, the
house form has a cuboidal form and not
organic.
Windows: They were wider and well
finished. Wider openings helped them
invite in more light.
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Elements
Most of the elements in the settlement
are structural.
Timber is used in columns and beams.
Willow sticks are used in creating
partion walls. Thin and flexible ones are
chosen and split into two. They are then
wooven to interlock each other in order
to create a surface that will serve as an
enclosure element.
Timber is used
in columns and
beams.
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Clockwise from top: External
column beam and roof
junction// Partition wall
made up of willow sticks//
Internal column beam and
roof junction.
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Column beam detail
The columns are made out of Juniper,
a locally available species of wood that
has higher strength. The beam rests on
the column with the help of the spacer
to provide a surface area. In some cases,
the beam directly rests of the column.
Some columns run from the first level
to the third level to carry the load of the
roof above it.
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Roof detail
The roof is flat for insulation during
snow. Also, the roof serves as an access
to the spaces in each level. Willow sticks
used in the roof under a layer of grass.
Mud and gravels are used to fill the
slab. Bigger stones are used towards the
edges.
Structure of the reflected roof: Column
(juniper) | Primary beams (poplar)
Secondary beams (poplar)| Willow sticks
| Dry grass | Mud
Top: Reflected roof// Bottom:
Layers of roof
Opposite, clockwise from
top: Spacers used above the
column to rest the beam //
Beams pass through the
wall from both the ends// An
opening in the roof.
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Wooden door detail
The wooden door was 1.5 metre tall
and approximately 0.9 metres wide.
This door had a unique lock system
which was quite complicated for any
person to understand the mechanism.
Both the lock and key were made of
wood. There was a small niche in the
wall beside the door where the fist was
inserted to reach the key hole. on
reaching the lock, the key was inserted
in and the door could be unlocked.
Only the owner of the house knew the
mechanism and no one could see how it
is being opened.
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Customised wooden door
lock
This lock was designed exclusively for
the house. Both, the lock and the key,
were made out of wood. A small wooden
block is fixed behind the door. Another
piece of wood, which has the key hole, is
inserted into the block. When this piece
is completely inserted, the pins drop
into the holes and get locked. The key
is then inserted , twisted and lifted to
move the pins up and unlock the door.
There was a small
niche in the wall
beside the door
where the fist was
inserted
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Spaces
The space is sparsely lit as it has very
small openings to avoid cold winds
from entering in. The walls are made of
random rubble.
Fodder for cattle is stored here. The
partition walls made out of mud.
Clockwise from top: Internal
space// Dark interiors//
Fodder storage
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Spaces
The internal spaces are low heighted
with a smaller opening. A thin beam of
light enters in from the small opening.
The size of the opening limits the
entry of natural light, thus making the
interiors dark.
Clockwise from top: The
quality of light entering
into the space// Internal
storage space in cattle shed//
Internal storage space for
cereals grown
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Spaces
The semi open space extending out of
the enclosed space.
Multiple semi open spaces created
that are seperated by a stone wall. The
roofing layers are Poplar beams, willow
sticks, dry grass and gravels and a
finishing layer of mud.
Clockwise from top: Semi
open space// Semi open
spaces
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Materials and details
There have been three main materials
used in construction, which include
stone, timber, mud. Using there
materials they have explored methods
of construction. The construction
details have been shown through wall
sections of each building type.
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Wall Sections
Stone plinth. Rammed earth wall
extends up till the bottom of slab.
Ramming is done in bands and to bind
the bands together gravels are used
between two bands. The slab is made
up of wooden beams, willow sticks and
a layer of mud to seal the gaps and to
provide an even surface for the floor
above.
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Random rubble wall made of dry
masonry in the ground floor extends
up to the next floor. The thickness of
the wall reduces as is extends higher in
order to reduce the self-load of the wall.
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Random rubble wall made of dry
masonry in the ground floor has through
stones at regular intervals, in order to
tie the stones together. In the first floor
adobe wall is made, to reduce the dead
load of the wall. The mud bricks are held
together using mud mortar.
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Stone wall tapers towards the higher
end. The beams pass through the wall
and extend out. The stone wall extends
up to cover the edges ofthe slab and
project the edges.
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Column is made out of juniper and rests
on a stone slab. It has a capital to provide
surface area for the beam to rest. The
beam supporting the slab takes the load
transferred by the column above it. The
secondary beams are used in roofing to
support the willow sticks upon which
dry grass and mud filling is done.
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Column rests on a stone slab to avoid
direct contact with mud, in order to
prevent termites. The beam supports
the slab and the wattle and daub wall
above it. Wattle and daub helps in
reducting the dead load.
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In the course of our study, we came
accross many elements whose
importance had faded with time. The
thought of giving back to the people for
being such warm hosts resulted in the
exhibition we put up in the old street og
Kargil, to reconnect them with cultural
heritage they possesed and the need to
preserve them for years to come.
The yellow frame is a gesture that
we used to highlight the important
elements within the street.
Framing the
forgotten
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Participants setting up the
exhibition in the old street
of Kargil
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Participants setting up the
exhibition in the old street
of Kargil
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Civilians taking interest
in understanding the work
displayed
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This page: Officials of
the town// Opposite
page: Students actively
participating in the
exhibition

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On site collaborators
Debashish Borah
Muzzammil Hussain Munshi
Ajaz Hussain Munshi
Bhanupratap Sharma
Vivek Sheth
Iliyaz Ansari
Editorial team
Authors
Bhanupratap Sharma
Vivek Sheth
Editors
Bhanupratap Sharma
Ishita Jain
Shubhanyu Jain
Student Editoral Team
Pooja Nagaraj - 3rd year
Vatsal Patel - 3rd year
Kashvi Vora - 4th year
Copyright Indus University 2016
Published by
Rupa, Co
7/16, Ansari ROad, Daryaganj,
New Delhi 110 002
Sales centres: Ahmedabad | Mumbai | Kolkata
| Delhi |...
All rights reserved.
Nopart of the publication may be reproduced or
transmitted in any form or by any means ...
Printed in India by
Gopsons Papers Ltd.
A-14 Sector 60
Noida 201 301
Institute of Design, Environement, and Architecture
Thaltej, Ahmedabad, India
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