GG_N44_COMPLET_ESP

ALVARINHO/ALBARIÑO 

A TALE OF TWO COUNTRIES 

DISCOVER OUR SUMMER 

SELECTIONS: 

CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE 

& SA CAP CLASSIQUE 

Winegrower Baltasar Tirado 

from Terras de Compostela 

in Rias Baixas 

L 19045 - 44 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

Summer 2021

Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com

CONTENTS 

– COLUMNS • REPORTS – 

10 

36 54 

96 

7 NEWS 

10 COMPETITION 

War of the Rosés 

26 STYLE 

Crémant de Bourgogne: When fizz is the bizz 

35 IMPORTER 

Amka group: Looking to the long-term 

36 GRAPES 

Are Bordeaux Cabernets under threat? 

44 HISTORY 

Beaujolais Crus: Back in the limelight 

54 WINE GROWER PORTRAIT 

Mogens Olesen, owner of Château Lecusse, 

and a serial entrepreneur 

56 LOOKING AHEAD 

No-low wines: A full-fledged market category 

63 GRAPES 

Albariño or Alvarinho, Spain or Portugal… that is the question 

71 SUCCESS STORY 

From Copenhagen to Alicante… through wine 

77 VINEYARDS 

Montalcino, the ‘promised land’ for Sangiovese in Tuscany 

87 ORGANIC WINES 

Southern Italy: A paradise for organic viticulture 

96 DISCOVERY 

South Africa: Perfected by time 

105 STARS & WINE 

Kyle MacLachlan: Actor and producer… of wine! 

107 CONTACT DETAILS 

109 2021 SUMMER SELECTIONS 

GILBERT & GAILLARD NEXT ISSUE AUTUMN 2021 

Cover: Courtesy of the estates 

SUMMER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 3

EDITORIAL 

– FRANÇOIS GILBERT – 

Editorial Director 

SPAIN-PORTUGAL: DUELLING VARIETALS, 

AND NEIGHBOURS, ALBARIÑO AND ALVARINHO 

On the Spanish side, in the north-west of the Iberian Peninsula, 

the river Miño wends its way through the Rías Baixas appellation 

area. The range of grape varieties grown here includes the local 

star Albariño. Further down the course of the Miño (soon to 

become Minho) is Portugal, and more specifically the Vinho Verde 

designation of origin area, home to a variety called Alvarinho. May 

the match commence! 

There are no differences between the two, apart from their spelling. 

In actual fact, this is one and the same grape variety, which – 

admittedly – shows great nuances of style depending on the area 

where it is grown. The differences can therefore be likened to a Syrah 

from Australia and one from the Rhone Valley. Except that in this 

particular case, only a few dozen kilometres separate the two and 

the climate is, generally speaking, identical and typical of the fairly 

damp Western ocean seaboard. 

Between these two neighbouring and rival appellations, there 

are few similarities in the glass. Rias Baixas is dry, fresh and very 

perfumed with flavours of ripe peach and almond. Vinho Verde, 

whilst showing a similar array of aromas, has a livelier character and 

even some beading. If you are struggling to choose between the two, 

look no further. All is revealed on page 63! 

4 SUMMER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

EDITORIAL 

– PHILIPPE GAILLARD – 

Editorial Director 

SOUTH AFRICA 

CAP CLASSIQUE COMES OF AGE 

It may not be South Africa’s most renowned wine, and it is probably its 

youngest because this year it celebrates just 50 years since its inception – but 

there is no denying the success of Cap Classique. Since the first, fairly hit 

and miss attempts at making sparkling wine then a visit to Champagne by 

Stellenbosch winegrower Frans Malan in 1968, huge strides have been made. 

In 1971, Malan magically achieved secondary bottle fermentation and created 

bubbles from Chenin, which at the time was the most ubiquitous white grape 

variety in the Cape vineyards. The category has since then been embraced by 

over 250 South African producers across the vineyards of the Western Cape. 

Their inspiration is largely drawn from Champagne with grape varieties such 

as Chardonnay, Pinot noir and Pinot Meunier, and wines that run the gamut 

in terms of style and terroir expressions. The wines spend between 12 and 

60 months and more in bottles and range from Blanc de Blanc to blends and 

rosés; they can be with no dosage, Brut and Demi-Sec. 

With over ten million bottles annually, Cap Classique has carved out a place for 

itself in the South African wine industry which is full of promise, and reveals 

a whole new aspect of the country’s winemaking talent. A look at the scores 

awarded to the 79 wines selected for our 2021 Summer Selection at the end of 

this magazine (pages 109 to 114) is surely proof enough. 

We are already looking forward to celebrating the 50 th anniversary of Cap 

Classique at the beginning of September, and we will be in South Africa’s wine 

regions to do so. 


EDITORIAL 

– SYLVAIN PATARD – 

Editor in Chief 

HOW NEW DRINKS ARE BECOMING A FULL-FLEDGED CATEGORY 

It is a known fact that non-alcoholic or low-alcohol beverages – some of 

which can be called wine – are appealing to new consumer groups that are 

increasingly mindful of their well-being and health. Although still a niche, 

the market seems to hold promise, particularly as it is fuelled by drinks 

that are constantly improving in quality. They also resonate with current 

consumer trends in the broadest sense, which for wine means lighter, fresher 

and more ethical offerings. And above all, less harmful to people’s health. 

The message is proving highly effective, and has found consumer audiences 

among pregnant women, retirees and people taking medication who cannot 

drink conventional wines. 

The techniques used differ depending on the country, the producer and the 

desired type of wine (or drink). From totally or partially removing alcohol 

from traditional wines, to early harvesting to curb alcohol content, or even 

reverse osmosis where a few degrees of alcohol evaporate, the issue remains 

unchanged, and that is how to preserve balance and avoid excessive acidity. 

It is still difficult to quantify the category, because there are no dedicated 

statistics within the industry. However, as Mathilde Boulachin (Domaines 

Pierre Chavin, see page 56), who has pioneered no-low drinks, points out: 

“In the segment’s ten-year history, there has been real growth”. 

Read about her experience in our feature report, which will also take you to 

Italy and South Africa. 


La_Marca_N°44_Mise en page 1 09/07/2021 16:27 Page 1 

NEWS 

PROSECCO 

F 

ounded in 1968, La Marca is a secondlevel 

cooperative, which represents about 

5000 winegrowers who tend around 15,000 

hectares of vineyards, owing to the Group’s 

8 wineries all located in the province of 

Treviso. 

Knowledge handed down the years, experience 

and professionalism, competence in the field 

and commercial strategies are requisites 

that makes La Marca a reference point and 

one of the most representatives companies 

in the Prosecco’s field. 

Territoriality, cooperation and sustainability 

are the main values of the company’s 

philosophy, which includes several meanings: 

environmental, economic, social and ethic. 

https://www.lamarcaprosecco.com 

Cavavin N°44_Mise en page 1 22/06/2021 17:59 Page 1 

FREY-SOLHER 

CAVE DE LABASTIDE 

DE LÉVIS 

Crémant d’Alsace 

Gaillac Perlé 

€ 5.50* 

FOUR 

WINEMAKERS 

FOR 

€ 10.50* 

Thomas CHIMIER 

156, avenue du Général de Gaulle 

44380 PORNICHET 

( +33 2 40 01 02 93 

DOMAINE DES RAYNIÈRES 

2019 

François CORTAT 

CAVAVIN TOURCOING 

4-6, rue de Lille 

59200 TOURCOING 

( +33 3 20 94 64 03 

CHÂTEAU DE PIZAY 

2020 

SUMMER 

2021 

Saumur 

€ 5.20* 

Bruno DUVAL 

CAVAVIN ARNAGE 

182, boulevard Lefaucheux 

72230 ARNAGE 

( +33 2 43 77 09 43 

Beaujolais blanc 

€ 9* 

Stéphane DUMONTOIS 

CAVAVIN GUJAN MESTRAS 

124, Cours de Verdun 

33470 GUJAN MESTRAS 

( +33 9 67 79 61 49 

* Retail price including sales tax 


NEWS 

Wines Overland: the gateway to Asia-Pacific for European wines 

Philippe Carrant and Michael Rogers are two likeminded 

partners who created Wines Overland to 

help European winegrowers export their wines to 

the Asia-Pacific region. The Frenchman deals with the 

sourcing and the British-Singaporean handles sales and 

marketing. Both speak French, are passionate about Asia 

and interchangeable. The company posted turnover of 

€16m last year and has offices in Paris and Hong Kong. 

Its markets are primarily Japan, Hong Kong, Australia, 

New Zealand, Taiwan and China. The main focus is to 

develop long term sales, “not one shot deals” and “not just 

value wines”, says Carrant. Their portfolio includes simple, 

medium and high-end wines from small producers, 

co-operative wineries and a few premium estates. “In Asia, 

wines need to have a private label, something with a story 

to tell consumers”, says Rogers. “We help them do that”. 

Covid has made logistics challenging but lockdown 

measures may have had two beneficial effects. With 

restaurants closed, some Asian consumers in Singapore 

and Korea have started drinking wine at home. This type 

Philippe Carrant and Michael Rogers, the two founders of Wines Overland 

of consumption is less “showy”, and more “pleasurable” 

and “sincere”, and the hopes are that it will continue. 

Similarly, in many countries, consumers have turned to 

better quality offerings, with higher average prices, and 

that is excellent news for European winegrowers! 

Have the partners ever considered importing Asian wines 

into Europe? “That’s a different business altogether!”, the 

two men reply in unison. 

https://www.winesoverland.com/en 

Vinitaly: welcoming the return of in-person trade shows 

PThe world of wine got back 

on track with OperaWine and 

Vinitaly Preview in Verona. 

The two events organised by 

Vinitaly-Veronafiere hallmarked 

the resumption of shows attended 

in-person after fifteen months of 

compulsory stops when only 

digital events were allowed. They 

offered a preview of Vinitaly Special Edition (in Verona 

17-19 October) in the run-up to the 54 th edition scheduled 

10-13 April 2022. 

The Gallerie Mercatali – the former fruit & vegetable 

market and industrial archaeology venue opposite the 

exhibition centre – hosted OperaWine’s tenth anniversary 

event on Saturday 19 June. The Grand Tasting, that usually 

precedes Vinitaly’s official opening, presented some of the 

finest Italian wines selected by the American magazine 

Wine Spectator to an elite audience of buyers, journalists, 

sommeliers and international wine professionals. The 

weekend was complemented on Sunday 20 June by the 

Vinitaly Special Edition Preview, a B2B event presenting 

consortia, 70 companies and 

associations to more than 300 firms 

and national and international 

buyers from 14 European and 

non-EU countries. Vinitaly Preview 

illustrated the recovery of market 

demand for Italian wine, including 

within the country itself, as the 

hospitality industry re-opens for 

business and social life gets back on track, paving the 

way for Vinitaly Special Edition, the first full-scale trade 

fair event dedicated to the wine sector. Domestic and 

international markets will be in the forefront at the Vinitaly 

Special Edition. This trade-only occasion in October is 

perfectly timed for doing business in the wine industry, 

and Veronafiere is working with the ICE-Trade Agency 

and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International 

Cooperation to ensure that selected international buyers 

can enter the country. Live-streamed masterclasses are 

scheduled to ensure direct contact with market players that 

are unable to attend in person. 

More information at www.vinitaly.com 


THE GILBERT & GAILLARD INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE: 

MAKE SOME ROOM IN YOUR LOUNGE FOR WINE 

REGIONS FROM AROUND THE WORLD 

FRANCE 

SPAIN 

ITALY 

SOUTH AFRICA 

ENERGISING THE WINE MARKET THROUGH 

INNOVATION AND DIVERSITY 


SELECTIONS: 


& SA CAP CLASSIQUE 

ALVARINHO/ALBARIÑO 

A TALE OF TWO COUNTRIES 

MONTALCINO, 

THE ‘PROMISED 

LAND’ FOR 

SANGIOVESE 

IN TUSCANY 

CAP CLASSIQUE 

A 50-YEAR JOURNEY 

TO PERFECTION 

Mathilde Boulachin 

founded Pierre Chavin 

in Béziers in 2010 

Mario Piccini, Managing 

Director of Tenute Piccini 


SELECTIONS: 

SA CAP CLASSIQUE & 


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Summer 2021 

DISCOVER OUR SUMMER SELECTIONS: 

CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE & SA CAP CLASSIQUE 

Winegrower Baltasar Tirado 

from Terras de Compostela 

in Rias Baixas 

L 19045 - 44 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

Summer 2021 

L 19045 - 44 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

Summer 2021 

DISCOVER OUR SUMMER SELECTIONS: 

CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE & SA CAP CLASSIQUE 

L 19045 - 44 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

Summer 2021 

Stephan de Beer, 

head winemaker of 

Krone Cap Classique 

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Château Saint-Jacques d’Albas is located in an unspoilt setting 

ROSES 

– COMPETITION – 

War of the Rosés 

The wine regions of Provence, Corsica, the Rhone Valley and Languedoc 

have never had it so good in terms of reputation, but the real news 

is that the South of France is increasingly diversifying its wine styles. 

And in this particular battle, rosé is gaining even more traction. 

By Christelle Zamora - Photographs: courtesy of the estates - 

© Clement Puig - © DR - © ChristelleZamora - ©claude Cruells - © Vincent Agnes 


ROSES 


Philippe Pellaton, chairman of Inter Rhone 

“ The Rhone is renowned primarily as a red 

wine region, but the market’s appetite for 

rosé and white wines will lead them to gain 

ground”, claims Philippe Pellaton, the new 

chairman of Inter Rhone. He estimates that 

within five years, the share of rosé wines in the region 

will rise to 25%, compared to current distribution of 

75% reds, 16% rosés and 9% whites. 

At the Luberon appellation winegrowers’ organisation, 

Nathalie Archaimbault concurs: “We have always made 

rosé, but the colour has held a majority share since 

2007. Rosé used to account for around 15% but from 

the 2000s onwards, the rate of production increased. 

The turning point came in 2013 when more than 50% 

of the wines were rosé. In 2020, reds will only account 

for 23%, whites 18% and rosés 59% of production”. 

Within the appellation area, with its 3,400 ha under 

vine, 10 co-operative wineries produce 80% of rosé 

volumes. In terms of market distribution, a third of the 

wines are exported, a third are sold to wine merchants 

and the hospitality industry and a third in super/ 

hypermarkets. These ratios are currently being shaken 

up by wine tourism and direct-to-consumer sales, 


ROSES 


Winegrower Thomas Montagne at Château de Clapier 

located not far from the village of Mirabeau 

which are posting strong growth in the appellation’s 

59 independent wineries. In the east of the Luberon 

appellation area, Thomas Montagne farms vines 

surrounding around a house that once belonged to the 

Marquis de Mirabeau. In 1880, Thomas Montagne’s 

family bought the estate at auction. After graduating 

from Purpan School of Engineering, Thomas Montagne 

took over Château de Clapier from his father in 1992. 

As an independent winegrower, he has built up a wide 

range of wines in all three colours, predominantly 

reds. Today, he produces three rosé labels, including 

6,000 bottles of the Vibrato label, blended from Grenache 

and Cinsault for the entry-level range. The next tier up 

is his Soprano rosé with 1,500 bottles (€13) – this is an 

age-worthy rosé made using the ‘saignee’ method for 

the Grenache and direct-to-press for the Cinsault before 

blending. He also produces an offbeat sweet rosé made 

from Hamburg Muscat, selling just 200 bottles (€8 per 

50 cl) under the Vin de France designation. 

Recently, Montagne launched a fruity Tessiture rosé 

for super/hypermarkets. Rosé accounts for a third of 

the estate’s production. “I sell a lot of wines direct-toconsumer 

but I don’t sell much in export markets, with 

the focus more on wine merchants, hospitality outlets 

and local supermarkets. I now sell a little more to wine 

merchants”, he comments. One of his issues is selling 

rosés from previous vintages – consumers often cannot 

imagine that a rosé can be kept for over a year. 

Olivier Rouquet is managing director 

of Château de l’Isolette 

EASILY UNDERSTANDABLE ROSÉS 

FOR CONSUMERS 

This is one of the reasons that has driven the Rhone 

wine marketing board to invest in a technical centre. 

In the same vein as the Rosé Wine Centre in Provence, 

the technical institute should focus on rosé styles that 

consumers can grasp easily. Not all investments are 

home-grown though – foreign investors also come to 

promote rosé. Mariusz and Marta Gawron, who come 

from a business background, own luxury hotels in 


ROSES 


Set between Bonnieux and Apt, Château de l’Isolette is a long-standing Luberon estate. It was bought by Polish investors 

Poland. They bought Château de l’Isolette, part of the former 

Domaine de Mille – once owned by the Pinatel family - which 

was sold to a Franco-American couple. Located between 

Bonnieux and Apt, l’Isolette covers 45 hectares and has been 

producing rosé wine since 1987. Three of the estate’s eighteen 

labels are currently marketed as AOP Luberon rosé, totalling 

17,000 bottles. “The new owners have directed sales of rosés 

towards Poland, where they own a concert hall and hotels, 

and they are canvassing supermarkets”, comments managing 

director Olivier Rouquet. Poland has a very different culinary 

culture to France, however. “Only the most privileged classes 

drink wine at the dinner table. The Poles like sweet, sparkling 

wines, which is why a sparkling rosé is produced at Château 

l’Isolette”. The Gawrons have introduced wine onto the 

menus of their luxury establishments between Gdansk and 


ROSES 


Gdynia, and in the seaside resort of Sopot on the Baltic 

Sea. Maybe they will be successful at transforming beer 

into wine in the chic venues frequented by the Polish 

jet-set. This is a fairly tall order, to say the least, as 

Poland is currently one of the countries in Europe that 

drinks the least amount of wine. 

The Luberon wine region is set in the heart of a national park. Its 

unspoilt location is home to incredibly popular rosé wines 

Domaine d’Albas in the Minervois 

ROSÉ-CRAZED LANGUEDOC 

Rosé’s second home after Provence is Languedoc. Over 

a 5-year period, between 2015 and 2020, Languedoc 

appellations shifted towards whites and rosés. In AOC 

Languedoc, rosé production has risen from 12% to 18% 

in 5 years. The Occitania region has already overtaken 

Provence by volume, which is no mere feat. 

In the Minervois, Graham Nutter began renovating an 

estate after a career in finance. The English businessman 

has travelled a lot – as he likes to say, he always had 

a plane ticket in his pocket. When he was looking for 

somewhere to put down roots, the Minervois seemed 

the ideal place. After living in the capitals of the world, 

he fell for an estate that was not overlooked by other 

properties, had a forest and came with old buildings 

to restore, including an 11 th century chapel on the 

pilgrim’s route to Santiago de Compostela. 

In 2001, the novice winegrower began replacing 

Carignan and Alicante with Syrah, Grenache, 

Mourvèdre, Caladoc and Cabernet-Sauvignon. For the 

whites, Vermentino, Roussane, Viognier and Marsanne 

followed. The 90-hectare estate boasts 26 hectares of 

vines in the Minervois appellation area surrounded by 

woodlands and orchards. Château Saint-Jacques d’Albas 

produces 90,000 bottles a year. 

“I wanted to make wine but then I had to sell it. At 

the time, Minervois did not have a good reputation. 

I wanted to make a terroir-driven wine. So before 

deciding to go organic, I applied the Cusinié method to 

improve soil resources”, recalls Nutter. Rosé production 

began with the 2005 vintage, but it was only later that 

the two labels La Chapelle en Rose and Le Petit Saint- 


ROSES 


After travelling the world for business, Graham Nutter 

bought and restored an estate near Carcassonne 

in the Minervois 

Jacques developed their ultimate style. To make them, 

he chose Grenache, a Rhone varietal, and Mourvèdre 

from Provence. La Chapelle en Rose (€12) contains 

more Grenache while Le Petit Saint-Jacques (€7) is 

Mourvèdre-dominant. “La Chapelle en Rose is very 

popular with Californians as it is a lighter rosé than 

the more typical Napa Valley wines and is also sold on 

Long Island, the equivalent of the French Côte d’Azur. 

We export 80% of production to 15 different countries”, 

he adds. 

During the pandemic, the estate turned more towards 

direct-to-consumer sales. “We created a website and 

in our foreign markets we found buyers who do home 

deliveries of wine. Our sales mainly dropped in the 

United States. Fortunately, with our gîtes and music 

festival, our clientele has continued to come. 2020 

is an excellent vintage, but in 2021 we lost 4.5% of 

our Grenache to frost, so we will produce a little less 


ROSES 


Chapelle en Rose and more Petit Saint-Jacques”. But 

what worries Graham Nutter most is the extreme heat 

and drought, which is why he has planted Cinsault. In 

the future, this variety could pick up the slack in blends 

of the estate’s rosés. 

The Saint-Chinian co-operative winery launched the Art en Cave 

concept where an artist is invited to paint a concrete tank and a 

dedicated label is created. The initiative is part of its wine tourism drive 

THE AMAZING STORY OF SAINT-CHINIAN 

In Saint-Chinian, Geoffrey Boulade waxes lyrical about 

the rosé market, which has soared to such stratospheric 

heights that to disregard it would have been unthinkable. 

“Over the last 10 years, we have repositioned our rosé 

selection. We started with the L’Excellence de Saint 

Laurent range in 2010, launched at Metro. This was a 

real turning point, so much so that we now produce 

1.5 million bottles per year”, says the co-operative’s 

communications manager. 

The success prompted the winery to continue along 

the same tack. Its executives then designed a new 

PDO and PGI Raoul Mapoul range of fruit-forward 

wines for casual drinking. “The wines were launched 

in 2015, and soon broke through the 1-million-bottle 

barrier”. Despite the already significant volumes, the 

small Saint-Chinian co-operative decided to continue 

producing bottled rosés, not bulk, as the winery’s image 

remains of paramount importance. “In 2019, we created 

another range under the Vin de France designation, 

embracing modern single-varietals. We launched a 

100% Mourvèdre without sulphites, a Syrah-Mourvèdre 

label, a Languedoc signature grape, Carignan, and a 

Sauvignon”. Another project involves the Caractère 

label revolving around the five senses with packaging 

that highlights young co-operative winegrowers. Then 

there’s the 1937 label, a nod to the year the winery 

was founded, which uses cues from the 1930s and in 

particular the main character from F. Scott Fitzgerald’s 

novel, The Great Gatsby”, points out winery chairman 

Yves Borel. 

In Saint-Chinian, the history of rosé is currently in the 

mtzing. All of the winery’s rosés sell for under €10, 


ROSES 


In Maraussan, Nathalie Jeannot produces a high-end organic rosé 

at the Chapelle de Novilis estate 

and have garnered appeal among young consumers who enjoy 

rosés with picnics. The winery markets 7,900 hl of rosés under 

AOP Saint-Chinian and 5,000 hl as PGI Pays-d’Oc and Paysd’Hérault, 

though also sells 5 and 10 litre bag-in-boxes, two 

magnums of rosé and a jeroboam. “The format is aimed at 

private beach events. Provence rosés are so expensive that more 

affordable price tags have become sought after”. 

Nevertheless, Saint-Chinian rosés are quite deeply coloured, 

which does not quite fit with the pale Pantone trend for 

Provence rosés. “In our opinion, food-friendly rosés have a 

deeper colour and more body. We don’t feel it would be wise 

to reduce the colour intensity of rosés in Saint-Chinian”. The 

only cloud on the horizon is that frost affected 75% of vineyard 

acreage, and the winery will have to dip into red inventories so 

that it can prioritise production of its whites and rosés. 

A few kilometres away, Nathalie Jeannot produces organic 

wines at Domaine Chapelle de Novilis. The winegrower took 


Domaine Alain Jaume has a strong wine tourism focus and 

produces two rosés, a Côtes-du-Rhône and a Tavel 

ROSES 


over the vineyards from her brother-in-law ten years ago. “We 

had to raise the trellis wires, review pruning techniques, uproot 

vines that were too old and plant Viognier, Grenache Gris and 

Cabernet Franc”, she says. She produces 8,000 bottles of a pale 

coloured rosé wine aged on the lees. “But with mildew in 2019 

and frost in 2021, production is closer to 5,500 bottles out of a 

total 30,000”. Her Cinsault (85%) and Vermentino (15%) rosé 

is very aromatic. “I harvest by hand with a refrigerated truck to 

keep the grapes ice-cold – at no point must the aromas escape. 

Pressing and skin-contact maceration get the same care and 

attention, because Vermentino is a fragile grape variety”. For this 

sophisticated gourmet-style rosé, picking the grapes too early is 

out of the question. In fact, the fruit is only harvested when fully 

ripe. Château de Novilis rosé is sold within the year. The good 

news is that Jeannot sells 60% of her wines to private customers. 

PROVENCE AND ITS JETSET 

Situated between Orange and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Christophe 

Jaume also produces rosés. And for the past two years, this 


ROSES 


renowned négociant has changed his tack. Traditionally, 

Domaine Alain Jaume produces a Tavel rosé and a 

Côtes-du-Rhône rosé. “In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, we are 

in Provence country, but the public does not identify 

our rosés as rosés from Provence”, bemoans Jaume. He 

stresses the sea-change in the production of rosés – his 

father used to produce mainly ‘saignée’ rosés with a deep 

colour that no longer appeals to today’s consumers. The 

reason Jaume produces a new-generation Tavel in the 

process of being converted to organic, with crushed 

fruit and intense strawberry flavours, is because he 

feels current trends favour lightly-coloured rosé with 

floral notes. “We have modernised the packaging of our 

classic label, renamed Bellissime, which is produced 

organically. On the label, the olive tree conjures up 

images of Provence, the colour remains light and 

the shape of the bottle is the main selling point in 

brasseries”, he explains. 

The Tavel rosé has a price tag of €11.50 a bottle, 

while Bellisime costs €8. Jaume sells 40,000 bottles 

of Bellissime and 4,000 bottles of Tavel in a variety 

of distribution channels: “Bellisime is sold in France 

while Tavel is exported to the United States”. He is at a 

loss as to why the customer base for Tavel rosés is not 

getting any younger. He feels that his Tavel rosé, named 

Crétacé after a geological period, is a true terroir wine 

pairing with refined, spicy dishes. Though delighted 

with booming sales of rosé wines – which have 

successfully weathered the storm – he has high hopes 

that increasingly knowledgeable consumers will soon 

embrace greater diversity. 

Between Mount Sainte-Victoire and the Sainte-Baume, 

not far from Aix-en-Provence, Charles Rouy has taken 

over the reins of the family estate. The owner of Château 

d’Ollières has followed his Burgundy instincts, focusing 

on stellar rosés yet not totally relinquishing either the 

reds or the whites. Boasting Provençal charm, the 35-ha 

vineyard has been replanted while woodland acts as a 

buffer for biodiversity. The cool, chalky soil and semi- 

Château d’Ollières is located between the Sainte-Victoire and the 

Sainte-Baume in Provence 


ROSES 


Charles Rouy, owner of Château d’Ollières 

continental climate give Ollières wines their distinctive 

character due to the elevation and diurnal temperature 

shifts. “This year, the spring frost caused such a cold snap 

that the vines seem to be slowing down, although growth in 

this vineyard is later than elsewhere. The already late harvest 

could stretch into November”, predicts Rouy. 

Château d’Ollières produces three very elegant wines – 

Classique rosé (€9.20), Prestige rosé (€13.50) and Haut 

de l’Autin (€16.70). All the rosés are matured on the 

lees because Rouy feels that rosé is a genuine Provence 

speciality. “We pioneered the cold chain and Burgundy-style 

barrel fermentation. We also add very sparing amounts of 

sulphites”. Rouy works with pinpoint precision – he manages 

his vineyards sustainably and has his sights squarely set on 

quality. Consequently, Ollières wines are artisan offerings 

and flagships in the Coteaux-Varois appellation. His private 

clientele needs no convincing. “Despite the pandemic, the 

estate has continued to bottle its 35,000 bottles per month 


ROSES 


since January”, and Rouy is keeping his fingers crossed 

that the trend continues. “In 2019, exports accounted for 

45% of sales, but this dropped to 15% in 2020. For 2021, 

we are only expecting 30% of a normal year’s revenue 

from exports, which are also being held back by lack of 

space on the boats and long delivery times”. 

In the heart of the Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire 

appellation area, Château Gassier is certified organic. 

The property belongs to the Advini Group and produces 

99% rosé and 1% white. For the reds, the estate partners 

with Château Beaulieu. The defining feature of Château 

Gassier’s rosés is that they are designed for the hospitality 

industry. “We produce lightly oaked rosé wines matured 

in Austrian barrels which do not instil oak influence 

in the wines. The maturation process does, however, 

improve the structure of the rosés which evolve well over 

time. Our two top-end labels, 946 and Elevae, can be 

kept for 5 to 10 years”, says product manager Paul Alary. 

As an aside, 946 is the height of the cross on Mount 

Sainte Victoire, and the first vintage was produced in 

2010. Annual sales total 10,000 bottles compared to 

1,500 bottles for the prestige Elevae label. “Our wines 

are served on the finest tables in the world. Elevae is 

only released in the best years, and the last vintage 

was 2016. Providing the results are confirmed after 

the maturation process, we will release a 2019. Barrel 

ageing lasts for 24 months compared to 7 months for 

the 946 label, where only two thirds of the wines are 

matured in barrels”. 

The estate has built up a strong image among wine 

experts and sommeliers and is developing wine tourism. 

Visitors come and see a film on a big, open-air screen, a 

glass of rosé in hand, whilst others dance to a lively DJ. 

During the Covid-19 pandemic, the estate developed 

an online store for private customers. Only 60% of 

the wines are exported. Château Gassier also produces 

120,000 bottles per year of entry-level rosé, the highly 

successful Le Pas du Moine label. The three wines range 

in price from €15.50 to €33 and €60. 

Guillaume Cordonis, the winemaker at Château Gassier 

Château Gassier is located in the heart of the Côtes-de-Provence Sainte- 

Victoire appellation area 


ROSES 


Estate director Olivier Souvelain took over management 

of Château Gassier in 2010 

“For exports, the United States is the second largest 

market, but Provence is still less well known there than 

the French Riviera. For the past four years, we have been 

promoting the lifestyle spirit of Provence through local 

bloggers”. Restricting sales to mature markets, however, 

is a definite no-no. “New markets like Switzerland 

and Australia are opening up, and we are beginning to 

perform well there. We enjoy working with restaurateurs 

who promote our wines. The young Japanese chef Ippei 

Uemura of the Tabi restaurant in Marseilles is one of our 

top ambassadors”. If you want to indulge in some real 

pleasure, though, visit the estate and take the Sainte- 

Victoire footpath to discover the vineyards. 

Then there is the irresistible Saint-Tropez and 

Ramatuelle, names that resonate with parties, sunshine 


ROSES 


Roger Zannier has handed over management of Château Saint-Maur 

to his son-in-law Marc Monrose 

and blue skies and sea. Ten years ago, Roger Zannier 

bought Château Saint-Maur in Cogolin in the Gulf of 

Saint-Tropez. With his son-in-law Marc Monrose, they 

bought 60 ha including a 12-ha plot of Clos de Capelune 

from which they produce the single-vineyard range of 

this 1955-classified Cru. On the vineyard’s schist and 

quartz soils, Syrah, Grenache and Rolle flourish at an 

elevation of 449 metres, the highest vineyard in Côtesde-Provence. 

Forty hectares have been purchased in Le 

Cannet-des-Maures in order to expand the range and 

blends of rosés. Although Château Saint-Maur produces 

wines in all three colours, rosés hold pride of place. 

“Only 600 bottles of Clos Saint Vincent are produced 

in black bottles sold on allocation and in magnums 

for the limited edition. For the past 15 days, stocks 


ROSES 


have been depleted”, says director Myriam Hodge. 

Château Saint Maur has steered clear of the downturn 

and none of its wines can be found on supermarket 

shelves. The highly elaborate bottles are making a 

name for themselves in popular tourist locations such 

as Ibiza in the Balearic Islands. “In 2020, new markets 

were opened up in Ukraine, the Czech Republic and 

Switzerland and we expanded wine merchant sales in 

France. Although we market across Europe, we also sell 

about 350,000 bottles a year to China”. 

The beautiful building at Château Saint-Maur between the Maures 

mountain range and the gulf of Saint-Tropez 

Vineyard views in AOP Patrimonio, in the north of Corsica 

CORSICA’S FLAGSHIP COLOUR 

Corsican wine production is no longer red-dominant. 

Corsica experienced a boom in rosé simultaneously with 

Provence, and pink wines now account for 70% of overall 

production. “AOC Corse Porto-Vecchio produces the most 

with a 41% share, while in AOC Corse Calvi, rosés remain 

in the minority (27%) after reds (43%) and whites (30%). 

PGI Ile de Beauté produces 79% rosés versus 11% reds 

and 10% whites”, comments Caroline Franchi, marketing 

director of the Corsican wine marketing board. The 

island’s wines are doing well by appealing to discerning 

wine lovers. For the four co-operative wineries, 81% of 

production is rosé, whilst the share drops to 47% for the 

130 independent wineries.The challenge is to promote 

the wines. “An initiative was taken in 2017 with the 

launch of the Ile de Rosé brand, which was designed to 

group together the four co-operatives, in a bid to raise 

prices of the Corsican PGI. But four years later, only two 

co-operatives - Les Vignerons d’Aghione and the Marana 

co-operative – have actually joined forces to enhance the 

image of Corsican PGI rosés in supermarkets nationwide”, 

explains Franchi. The economic situation gives no cause for 

concern however. In 2020, the co-operative wineries saw 

sales go through the roof on the French mainland. “They 

bought up rosé inventories from independent wineries. 

The marketing board was fearing a 70% drop but sales are 

only 25% down in the aggregate. And the independent 

wineries are expecting a good tourist season”. Corsica 


The stony soils, hillsides and breezes define the 

micro-climate in the vineyards of Corsica 

ROSES 


wants to preserve its quality red wine range, its magnificent 

whites and the endemic grape varieties that have established 

its reputation. Winegrowers everywhere are experimenting with 

maturation techniques. Although Corsican rosé seems to have 

a bright future ahead of it, the wines will go hand in hand with 

organic winegrowing, with 90 estates already practitioners. 

Patrimonio is one of the two appellations awarded specific AOC 

‘Cru de Corse’ regulations. Located at the foot of the Cap, the 

vineyards are close to the sea and produce a remarkable range 

of wines. “The rosés are fresh yet robust, with a crisp fruitiness. 

The vineyards in the Patrimonio appellation area will go entirely 

organic in the near future”, says Franck Santini, owner of the 

50-hectare Clos Santini at the foot of Cap Corse, in the Gulf 

of Saint-Florent. “My rosés go direct-to-press, with marginal 

maturation and are not designed for ageing. In Patrimonio, 

the rosés are made from 75% Niellucciu and 25% additional 

grape varieties, and my rosés are distinctive, clear and fruity”. 

With an unbroken hillside vineyard that has been organic since 

2006, Franck Santini sells all his wines. And he has just planted 

4 hectares of Niellucciu and Sciaccarellu, to make more rosé… 


Crémant de Bourgogne regulations specify 

that the grapes have to be picked by hand to 

produce a better quality base wine 

BURGUNDY 

– STYLE – 

Crémant de Bourgogne: 

When fizz is the bizz 

World renowned grape varieties, fruit grown over a mosaic of vineyard sites 

and particularly high standards are some of the defining features of Crémant 

de Bourgogne, recognised as an appellation since 1975. They have helped 

establish a reputation for the Burgundy sparkler in wine markets at home 

and abroad. We dissect the reasons for the wines’ success. 

By Alexandra Reveillon – Photographs: ©BIVB, ©Aurélien IBANEZ, ©Michel JOLY, 

©Gérald MONAMY, ©UPECB, courtesy of the estates 


BURGUNDY 

– STYLE – 

A regional appellation just like Bourgogne, Bourgogne Aligoté and Coteaux Bourguignons, 

Crémant de Bourgogne is produced across the wine region 

Don’t be misled by the official birth date of the Crémant 

de Bourgogne appellation d’origine contrôlée: the region 

was home to bubbles long before 1975. Like the Loire, 

Bugey, Die and Limoux, it has a long-standing tradition of 

making sparkling wines. By the 19 th century, Chablis, Rully 

and Nuits-Saint-Georges were already hiving off part of their crop to 

make sparkling wine. The ancestral method, Charmat technique and 

carbonation were just some of the multiple techniques used at the 

time, leading to significant disparities between the wines. Despite 

this, in 1975, INAO decided to define a set of rules for making fizz 

in Burgundy, just as in the Loire Valley. The Crémant appellation was 

born, with a shared set of specifications - among the most stringent in 

the French wine industry - and local disparities, thereby revolutionising 

Burgundy sparkling wines. 

EXTREMELY STRICT SPECIFICATIONS 

Hand picking, compulsory use of the traditional method and bottle 

maturing for at least nine months are some of the prerequisites. “The 

specifications for Crémant de Bourgogne are restrictive. It requires time, 

space and manpower”, explains Sylvain Martinand, the winemaker at 

the Bailly-Lapierre cooperative since 2008. “We are required to harvest 

by hand and separate the juices... Crémant costs much more to produce 

than basic sparkling wine, but the constraints are unavoidable if you 

want to make a quality wine”. Crémant de Bourgogne is a regional 

appellation, akin to Bourgogne, Bourgogne Aligoté and Coteaux 

Bourguignons. It is grown on the same vineyard sites and made from 

the same grape varieties, whose reputation dates back aeons. 


BURGUNDY 

– STYLE – 

Vineyard management techniques are specific to Crémant de Bourgogne. 

The vines are pruned longer for sparkling wines 

GRAPE VARIETIES WITH AN INTERNATIONAL REPUTATION 

Hence, Pinot noir and Chardonnay must account for at least 30% of the 

blends. However, downgrading wines destined for still appellations to 

make sparkling wines is out of the question: vineyard areas earmarked 

for Crémant must be declared by the spring. “In any case, the vines 

require different management techniques”, comments Martinand. “For 

still wines, we manage Pinot noir in such a way that it produces colour 

and tannins. For a Crémant, we aim primarily for fruitiness”. The 

reputation of the kings of Burgundy grape varieties is firmly established 

but winegrowers willingly blend them with more under-the-radar 

grapes. In Marcenay, in the Châtillon area, Fabien Guilleman gets his 

creative juices flowing with Pinot gris and Aligoté to make successful 

wines. Sylvain Martinand is focusing instead on the imminent revival of 

Sacy, which was traditionally planted in Yonne. “It is a very productive 

and very late-ripening variety, which should make a comeback in 

decades to come due to global warming and late frosts that make the 

earlier varieties challenging to work with...» 

THE SEARCH FOR QUALITY, 

OUTSIDE THE SPECIFICATIONS BOX 

From Auxerre to Côte Chalonnaise and the Châtillon area, Crémant de 

Bourgogne producers are not shy when it comes to going beyond the 

basic AOC requirements in a bid to constantly ramp up quality, using a 

different varietal range, increasing sourcing options or focusing on single 

vineyards, and lengthening ageing time. The proof that the strategy is 


BURGUNDY 

– STYLE – 

effective is in the tasting... when people actually taste the 

wines. “Our wines sell well, once we get people to taste 

them. People rarely come to us, however, on their own 

initiative”, explains Matthieu Dangin, winemaker and 

winegrower at Molesme, in the Châtillonnais. Too often 

compared to Champagne, Crémant de Bourgogne suffers 

from a lack of awareness. “It’s all about image: you’ll 

always make more of an impression with a €10 bottle 

of Champagne than you will with a similarly priced 

Crémant, and yet, one is an entry-level wine, whereas a 

€10 Crémant is already high-end”. 

IN CHAMPAGNE’S SHADOW 

The comparison infuriates Sylvain Martinand, who 

cannot imagine pitting one still wine region against 

another. “We would never compare a Pommard to a 

Haut-Brion, or a top white Burgundy to a Condrieu! 

Crémant de Bourgogne encapsulates our culture and 

expertise, it is not meant to be compared with the 

most basic wines from another AOC. There is room for 

everyone!” Comparisons may well persist in France, but 

when it comes to exports, Crémant de Bourgogne is on a 

roll: 44% of the wines are sold outside France, from the 

United Kingdom to Italy, via North America, Asia and 

Scandinavia. The percentage is constantly rising, and the 

pandemic barely put a dent in it. Burgundy sparkling 

wine undeniably has a bright future ahead of it! 

Burgundy’s premier grape varieties Pinot noir and Chardonnay hold a 

majority share of the Crémant blend. The wine must contain at least 

30% of one of the two varieties 

DOMAINE GUILLEMAN, AN UNEXPECTED 

CRÉMANT WITH A DIFFERENCE 

Welcome to Haute-Bourgogne, aka the Châtillonnais. 

Located over an hour and a half from Beaune, the 

Marcenay wine region seems to have more in common 

with neighbouring Champagne, barely 25 kms away. 

From a philosophical perspective, Fabien Guilleman’s 

heart is split between the two. “I studied in Burgundy 

and did my placement in Champagne”, he quips. One 

all, next question. Since then, Guilleman has been 

managing his 4.5 hectares of vines with one objective: to 

stand out from the crowd. Here, Crémant de Bourgogne 

has a virtual monopoly over production. At Domaine 

Guilleman, sparkling wine accounts for 95% of the 

10,000 bottles produced annually. “I don’t even make 

Bourgogne every year”, admits Guilleman. From vine 

pruning – where the canes are left longer to retain acidity 

Made using the traditional method, Crémants de 

Bourgogne are riddled and disgorged by hand 


BURGUNDY 

– STYLE – 

After studying viticulture and winemaking in Burgundy, 

and completing a placement in Champagne, Fabien Guilleman 

chose his side: Crémant de Bourgogne 

– to winemaking techniques, the single-minded purpose is to 

make Crémant. 

Pinot noir and Chardonnay take the lion’s share of the varietal 

range, but Guilleman also has a few small blocks of Aligoté and 

Pinot gris, which he uses in his blends to add complexity to his 

sparkling wines. “Pinot gris is a grape variety that very quickly 

leaves its stamp on the wines. It is more aromatic, less acidic, 

and more unexpected”, he explains. “Crémant is a blended 

wine. The more years and tanks you have and the more varied 

the varietal range, the easier it is to compensate for faults or 

shortcomings”. Altogether, Fabien Guilleman has six different 

labels, including one aged in oak, which he sells with the same 

philosophy. You won’t find his wines in importers’ portfolios 

or supermarkets, he sells most of his stock to private customers 

visiting the estate, as well as a few dozen bottles to the nearby 

supermarket. His finest ambassadors are local English ex-pats, 

who have a particular weak spot for Crémant! 

DOMAINE BRUNO DANGIN, THE CALL OF ORGANIC 

It’s pointless looking for still wines here. Most Crémant de 


BURGUNDY 

– STYLE – 

Several generations of the family have farmed in Champagne, but Bruno and Matthieu Dangin chose the Châtillonais to flex 

their winemaking muscle by making organic Crémant 

Bourgogne producers specialise in the various white and red 

wine appellations across Burgundy but not so at Domaine 

Bruno Dangin. Here, sparkling wines rule the roost, which is 

not surprising considering the property’s history. Bruno Dangin 

and his son Matthieu, both winegrowers and winemakers, 

come from a family that has been based in neighbouring 

Champagne for several generations. They felt the need to 

produce organic wines. Were they tempted to convert the 

family estate? “That’s impossible. There are 12 partners and 

we don’t all have the same desires”, explains Matthieu Dangin. 

The vineyards of Champagne are expensive and organic is not 

profitable enough, so they quickly proved to be out of reach. 

There was another option, though. Located 3 km from the 

village of Les Riceys – capital of the Côte des Bar – the village 

of Molesmes, in the Châtillonnais, tipped the balance in favour 

of Burgundy. Since 2011, the two have been growing Pinot 

noir and Chardonnay on limestone soils with pronounced 

minerality. “They are so hard that we broke the ploughs on 

them the first year”, they recall. The vines, planted in the 1970s, 

were converted to organic as soon as they arrived, and now 


BURGUNDY 

– STYLE – 

Sylvain Martinand has been the winemaker at the Bailly-Lapierre winery since 2008. 

He matures the wines for much longer than appellation regulations stipulate 

produce taut, lively and delicate Crémants. It is difficult not to draw a 

parallel with the Champagnes produced by the family a stone’s throw 

away. “At blind tastings, it is difficult to tell them apart”, admits 

Matthieu Dangin. “Even the most seasoned tasters make mistakes”. 

Admittedly, the Dangins lavish much care and attention on their 

sparkling wines. Their Prestige de Narcès label, which is both fruity 

and mineral, energetic and delightful, is the best example. Produced 

from the oldest vines on the estate, it is made using single-vineyard 

fermentation in tanks with no added sulphites. Its fine bubbles 

bowled over even the American sommeliers at Madison Eleven Park, 

crowned best restaurant in the world in 2017. “They didn’t have any 

Crémant on the wine list. We are the first, and we have been on the 

list since 2017”, says a visibly proud Matthieu Dangin. Combining 

French provenance with bubbles and organic credentials, the wine 

ticks all the boxes to appeal to foreign markets. Unsurprisingly, 

exports represent over 80% of the company’s sales, spearheaded by 

Italy, the United States and Denmark. 

BAILLY-LAPIERRE, THE CATALYST FOR CRÉMANT DE 

BOURGOGNE 

Founded in 1972, the Bailly-Lapierre winery is inseparable from the 

history of Crémant de Bourgogne. Sparkling base wines, which were 

then sold en masse to Germany, were experiencing a serious crisis 

and winegrowers in the Auxerre region found themselves with vines 

and wines on their hands, with no storage space or sales outlets. 

They decided to create a co-operative winery, which they set up in a 


BURGUNDY 

– STYLE – 

4.5 hectare mushroom farm in Saint-Bris-le-Vineux. Three 

years later, the Crémant de Bourgogne appellation was 

born, providing the winery with long-awaited prospects. 

“In the early years, 90% of Crémant de Bourgogne was 

made at the winery”, says Sylvain Martinand. Almost half 

a century later, the co-operative is still a key player in the 

Crémant de Bourgogne market, with sales of 3 million 

bottles out of a total 17 to 20 million bottles distributed 

annually worldwide. 

Marked by the minerality and tension typical of the 

vineyards of Yonne, Bailly-Lapierre-crafted Crémants 

stand out for their Pinot noir-dominant varietal range, 

which represents 70% of the total. In all, the winery 

produces a dozen labels, from the Brut Reserve to the 

Blanc de Blancs, including the Blanc de Noirs and the 

rosés. The single varietal Pinot noir Blanc de Noirs 

has a distinctively pale gold colour with silvery green 

highlights. Its nose, marked by aromas of fresh grapes, 

plums and mirabelle plums mixed with touches of red 

fruit, flows into a vinous yet fresh palate. Complex and 

invigorating, it illustrates the winery’s expertise and 

high standards, which go far beyond the appellation’s 

requirements. Produced since 2006, the Vive la Joie label 

is the co-operative’s premium Crémant. “We keep it on 

laths for 3 to 6 years, and we disgorge it about 6 months 

before release”, explains Martinand. “This way, we can 

leverage conditions and secure the best price points for 

the wines”. The strategy has attracted interest across the 

globe. From wine merchants and hospitality outlets to 

private customers, supermarkets and exports, Bailly- 

Lapierre is increasing the scope of its sales network in 

France and abroad. Driven by growing demand for 

bubbles around the world, Bailly-Lapierre’s Crémant can 

be found in North America as well as in Japan, Germany 

and Norway. 

Founded in 1972, the Bailly-Lapierre co-operative 

winery is located in a former 4.5-hectare 

mushroom farm in Saint-Bris-le-Vineux 

DOMAINE HENRI CHAMPLIAU, 

THE PERSONAL TOUCH 

When he started making Crémant de Bourgogne in 

2016, Alexandre Graffard was convinced that some of 

his fruit, from outstanding blocks, would systematically 

feature in his wines. Five years later, his observation 

couldn’t be more different. “Vintage variation is so 

significant that we never select the same plot or the same 

tank!” he recounts. Capitalising on differences in site- 

Henri Champliau Crémants are matured in the dark, in warehouses 

where the hygrometry levels are controlled 


BURGUNDY 

– STYLE – 

Alexandre Graffard is passionate about wine and switched to Crémant de Bourgogne just before he turned forty 

expressiveness, forging his own personal style and adding his 

own personal touch to his Crémants is what the forty-year-old 

was aiming for when he founded Domaine Henri Champliau. 

“I wasn’t lucky enough to inherit 50 hectares of vines”, he 

jokes. But Graffard saw the opportunity to establish his own 

legitimacy by carefully selecting his supplies from vineyard 

plots specifically farmed to produce Crémants de Bourgogne. 

“I deliberately did not choose still wines: it would have been 

more difficult for me to have my own style. Single vineyard 

blocks depend entirely on the winegrowers. With Crémant, the 

winemaker can create his own blend, his own maturation style 

and his own dosage... That’s a real bonus!” 

He focuses on Pinot noir, which he favours for its vinous 

side and to stand out from the crowd. “Chardonnay, which 

represents 15% of the blend, is only there to impart freshness, 

tension and an airy touch to the Pinot noir.” The rosé, 

conversely, contains 10% Gamay, which is prized for its 

roundness. Matured in a darkened warehouse with controlled 

hygrometry, Henri Champliau’s Crémants are matured for 

much longer than the nine months imposed by production 

specifications. The result is fine, balanced sparkling wines, 

marked by trademark Pinot noir notes of red fruits. 


IMPORTERS 

– DENMARK – 

AMKA GROUP 

Looking to the long-term 

What started off in 1978 as a hobby for Anna-Marie and Karsten Søndergaard, 

who sold wines to friends and family from their garage in a small village in 

Denmark, has evolved into a multi-million-bottle business spanning 9 North 

European countries. Their son and current AMKA CEO Frank Søndergaard outlines 

the company’s ethos and growth prospects across the region. 

By Ellen Budge - Photographs: courtesy of AMKA Group 

Frank Søndergaard, Amka Group 

Perhaps what characterises AMKA group most 

is its extreme specialisation. Each one of its 

35 million bottles in annual sales – of wines 

with some beers and spirits – accesses the market 

through a dedicated company. “In Denmark, 

for instance, we have one company that specialises in 

wine sales to Horeca, another in spirits, then wines to 

supermarkets and another to online outlets”, explains 

Søndergaard from the company’s base in Denmark, 

where it owns six companies and sells around half its 

total volumes. Its broad-ranging distribution reach – 

from off-premise to Horeca, travel retail, online and its 

own bricks-and-mortar outlets – proved to be a precious 

asset during the Covid crisis. “What we thought was 

going to be a horrendous year, actually turned out to 

be not bad at all with declines offset by increases in 

other channels”. Drawing on a producer portfolio of 

some 300 suppliers also allows the company to tap into 

growth markets, with Sweden often leading the way. 

From organic/sustainable to cans/PET bottles and bag-inboxes, 

what starts in Sweden often filters down rapidly to 

Norway and Finland, then Denmark. In response to this, 

AMKA has recently established AMKA Nordic, addressing 

the needs of the monopolies and Horeca channel with 

a clear strategy. One strong consumer trend AMKA 

is witnessing region-wide is the tendency for lighter 

drinks. “Easy-drinking, lighter wine styles are definitely 

on-trend because they match the lighter food we’re 

eating”, stresses Søndergaard, who has also noticed the 

importance of references – reviews and endorsements – 

particularly in online channels which are rapidly growing 

across Scandinavia. Whatever the trend, Søndergaard 

feels that as a 100% family-owned business, AMKA is 

well-equipped to think long-term: “Often today, it’s not 

so much the buying and selling that matters as making 

long-term projects with our partners”. 


Some pretty poppies near the vineyards at Château Toutigeac 

BORDEAUX 

– GRAPES – 

Are Bordeaux Cabernets 

under threat? 

In around 2050, the Bordeaux wine region is likely to experience weather patterns 

similar to today’s climate in central Spain. Merlot is already in the hot spot, which 

obviously begs the question – will global warming affect other varieties such as 

the Cabernets (Franc and Sauvignon)? Their growing cycle at least could undergo 

profound changes, leading to transformations in style and structure. 

Gilbert & Gaillard travelled to the vineyards to find out more. 

By Jean-Paul Burias - Photographs: courtesy of the estates - © Deepix studio - © Hélène Brun-Puginier Val 


BORDEAUX 


Set between the Garonne, the Dordogne and 

the Gironde estuary, the vineyards of Bordeaux 

enjoy an outstanding location that has made 

them a legendary wine region. And yet, one 

worrying trend is looming on the horizon. Global 

warming is expected to have significant consequences for 

winegrowing, as is the increase in dry spells and drought. 

Throughout history, vines have demonstrated a certain 

ability to adapt to all kinds of changes and developments. 

Currently, the Bordeaux grape variety most exposed in the 

medium term seems to be Merlot. For the Cabernets, the 

situation is less clear-cut, but there is still concern. Jeremy 

Cukierman, director of Kedge Wine School, Master of 

Wine and author, specialises in the issue. “Cabernets have 

organoleptic profiles that suggest they will adapt better 

to warmer conditions”, he says. “They retain relatively 

low pH levels and therefore high acidity even in hot, dry 

temperate climates. Their natural structure draws the wines 

out and adds to tension and freshness, ultimately leading 

to lower sugar density at harvest than Merlot, in similar 

weather conditions”. The issue is one facing the majority 

of wineries, some of which have already found solutions. 

Xavier Mazeau, the fifth generation at Château 

Toutigeac 

CHÂTEAU TOUTIGEAC: A FAMILY AFFAIR 

The Mazeau family is one of the Bordeaux wine industry’s 

most prominent names. Here, knowledge of wine is part 

of a quest for excellence that leads them to scale the 

heights of quality. Genealogical research has shown the 

family’s unbroken commitment to winegrowing since the 

15 th century through its direct ancestors. Château Toutigeac 

was bought in 1928 by Charles Mallet, a wine merchant in 

Paris and Bordeaux. In 1949, his granddaughter Michelle 

married René Mazeau before inheriting the estate a year 

later when her grandfather passed away. When René retired 

in 1985, Philippe Mazeau, one of his four sons, became 

manager of Vignobles Toutigeac. With his wife Martine, 

they developed the estate, which now covers 110 hectares, 

including 77 hectares of bearing vineyards. After studying 

viticulture and oenology, their daughter Oriane joined 

them on the property. She perpetuates the family tradition 

by becoming the fifth generation with her brother Xavier 

to make wines at the estate. “Over the years, my family has 

been able to optimise the vineyards and, using meticulous 

Philippe Mazeau and his daughter Oriane tasting wines 


BORDEAUX 


A group of grape pickers at Tour Bel Air 

winemaking techniques, produce supple, generous and fruity wines, 

that are in keeping with the times”, she explains. “In the future, global 

warming will change vineyard management techniques and choice 

of soils. The Cabernets, for example, will need to be planted on 

cooler soils”. 

CHÂTEAU TOUR BEL AIR: THE BONUS OF FINESSE 

Nestled on the Médoc peninsula, less than an hour from Bordeaux, 

Château Tour Bel Air encompasses 7.8 hectares of vines spread over 

5 grouped blocks that are easily accessible from the centre of the estate. 

Two thirds of the blocks are planted on clayey gravel, lending them 

exceptional quality. One third is home to distinctively lighter, sandier 

soils over a limestone subsoil. The estate was taken over in 2006 by 

Patrice Belly, and is run traditionally. “Very ripe grapes means that my 

Passion and Prestige labels, which have a high proportion of Cabernet, 

are increasingly popular with customers, particularly in export markets”, 

he says. “In the first stages, climate change favours Cabernet-Sauvignon, 

promoting better ripeness, while eliminating any trace of green flavours. 

The Cabernets are becoming suppler yet also long on the palate. With 

slightly less sugar than Merlot, Cabernet-Sauvignon can produce lower 

alcohol levels which, conversely, are starting to become an issue with 

Merlot”. Better ripeness tends to improve aroma, finesse and structure, 

whilst also favouring more natural production methods. 


BORDEAUX 


A family portrait with Bruno Saintout in the centre 

Bruno Saintout, who produces AOC Haut-Médoc 

CHÂTEAU DE CARTUJAC: HAUT-MÉDOC’S GEM 

On the uppermost slopes of Saint-Laurent-du-Médoc, Château 

de Cartujac produces Haut-Médoc wines that express strong 

character and achieve the perfect balance between tannic finesse 

and persistent roundness. The estate belongs to Vignobles Bruno 

Saintout, who also owns Château La Bridane in Saint-Julien and 

Château du Périer in the Médoc appellation area (Cru Bourgeois). 

“Rising temperatures and a drop in rainfall are conducive to 

growing Cabernet-Sauvignon and reduce pressure from vine 

diseases”, says owner Bruno Saintout. “Cabernet-Sauvignon, 

Merlot and Petit Verdot have achieved perfect expression for 

many years in southern Europe. No new grape varieties should 

be introduced, each one should continue to express itself fully 

in its native country. We simply need to think about rational use 

of irrigation”. Global warming is already having a tangible effect 

on Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon crops, yielding very ripe wines 

every year. Chaptalisation has all but disappeared in the region. 

CHÂTEAU L’ARGENTEYRE: AN ODE TO PASSION 

This estate epitomises excellence along with the expertise of 

Philippe and Gilles Reich, who sadly passed away on 9 February. 

Established by the two brothers in 1992, Château l’Argenteyre 

covers 50 hectares near the Gironde estuary, 25 of which are 


BORDEAUX 


Harvesting at Château l’Argenteyre 

on Pyrenean gravel. Here, the ocean climate promotes 

characterful wines made from Merlot, Petit Verdot and 

of course Cabernet-Sauvignon. “The threat to Cabernet- 

Sauvignon is not from global warming”, feels Philippe 

Reich. “Quite the contrary – it allows it to fully ripen at 

the end of the harvest season, which was often lacking 

two decades ago. The risk is more its susceptibility to 

grapevine trunk diseases and its premature die-back, 

which leads to a drop in yields and therefore profitability, 

though this of course varies depending on planting 

density”. At Château l’Argenteyre, Cabernet-Sauvignon is 

planted at high densities on rootstocks that are not very 

vigorous. This strengthens its resistance, the objective 

being to maintain reasonable yields and therefore ensure 

it a good future in the Médoc. “There is no doubt that it 

is the most sensitive grape variety”, says Philippe Reich. 

“It needs excellent soil to flourish and deliver its amazing 

aromas and unique finesse. It only excels when it reaches 

peak ripeness in perfect health. Only then can it enhance 

and bolster the basis of the blend with consistent 

ripeness, higher sugar levels, better homogeneity and 

good regularity which makes it easier to build a loyal 

customer base in France and among export buyers”. 

The cellars at Château l’Argenteyre 

CHÂTEAU DE CRUZEAU: 

AN INSPIRED AND CREATIVE VISION 

The history of this superb estate overlaps the destiny 

of the extraordinary figures in one of Bordeaux’s most 

prominent wine companies. The Lurton family has worked 

tirelessly for several generations to make the finest wines. 

Its patriarch, André Lurton (1924-2019) inherited the 

family estate at Château Bonnet in 1956 (a grim year in 

Bordeaux). He continued the work started in 1897 by his 

grandfather Léonce Récapet. Vignobles André Lurton now 

covers 630 hectares, 260 of them in the Pessac-Léognan 

appellation. His son and renowned winemaker Jacques 

Lurton has taken over the presidency of the company, 

injecting it with the inspired and creative vision gleaned 

from his numerous winemaking experiences in France 

and abroad. As an expert, he feels that the consequences 

of global warming are not necessarily a stumbling block. 

“It’s actually an opportunity for Cabernet, the grape 

variety that will allow Bordeaux to retain its style”, he 


BORDEAUX 


Jacques Lurton president of 

Vignobles André Lurton 

Harvesting red Petits Verdot grapes 

at Château de Rochemorin 

Harvesting at Château de 

Cruzeau 

Château Couhins-Lurton, 

a drone view over the grounds 

comments. “It will continue to impart structure, aroma 

and finesse to the wines. Every wine region in Europe 

is defined by one or more iconic grape varieties. I don’t 

see any point in replacing them, but perhaps we should 

combine them with other varieties by first changing our 

vineyard management techniques”. 

CHÂTEAU GUICHOT: ELEGANT CABERNETS 

At Château Guichot, the wines mirror the outstanding 

terroir and expertise of Sébastien Petit. A brilliant and 

passionate winegrower, he bought this estate in the Entre- 

Deux-Mers region in 2008, and has been converting it 

over to organic since 2019. Visitors cannot help but be 

bowled over by its enchanting setting. An impressive 

19 th -century building overlooks the 25-hectare estate 

enhanced by its clay-limestone soils and steep hillsides 

with a perfect aspect. Merlot accounts for 75% of 


BORDEAUX 


Sébastien Petit and his sister Frédérike tasting the white 

and red wines during the winemaking process 

Françoise Petit joined by her family – her son Sébastien, her daughter Frédérike 

and her grandchildren 

vineyard acreage, followed by Cabernet-Sauvignon (20%) 

and Cabernet Franc (5%), forming a very classic trio. During 

the winemaking process, Sébastien Petit aims for extraction 

depending on the potential of the grapes in a bid to retain 

a measure of typicity during the blending process and to 

produce clean, flavourful wines. “Cabernet-Sauvignon has 

a bright future ahead of it before potentially suffering from 

global warming”, he says. “Unlike other appellations in 

the region such as Graves and Médoc, the soils here are 

clay. So even in very hot, dry years, our vines suffer less 

than elsewhere”. Cabernet-Sauvignon naturally has higher 

acidity, allowing it to retain some freshness even when it 

is very ripe. For Cabernet Franc, the situation is slightly 

different with lower acidity and alcohol levels that rise more 

quickly. “When I vinify Cabernet Franc, I aim for elegance”, 

says Petit. “This excellent blending variety adds complexity 

and harmony. I have, though, replanted a lot of Cabernet- 

Sauvignon in recent years, which I use for my L’Authentique 

label, a gratifying, rounded, fleshy wine. I like the freshness 

it instils in the blends, considering that the Merlots are often 

bordering on over-ripeness”. To cope with global warming, 

however, the savvy winegrower has also chosen - in recent 

years - to plant Malbec, which handles greater ripeness well, 

and Petit Verdot, which adds freshness and vivaciousness. 


BORDEAUX 


SO SHOULD WE WRITE OFF THE CABERNETS? 

The world’s second most widely planted grape variety, 

Cabernet-Sauvignon covers 341,000 hectares, or 4% of 

the world’s vineyard area, far ahead of Cabernet Franc, 

which is seventeenth with 45,000 hectares, 36,000 

of them in France. Although its production may be 

affected by global warming, numerous examples around 

the world suggest that Cabernet maintains its edge 

in areas that are significantly warmer than Bordeaux, 

such as Napa Valley in California, Chile and Argentina. 

“People have often proclaimed the end of the reign 

of certain grape varieties, based solely on the average 

temperature during the growing season, for specific 

vineyard sites”, stresses Jeremy Cukierman. “We now 

realise that these predictions were a bit hasty. These 

grape varieties still thrive in their historical vineyards 

and still produce quality wines. Cabernets are naturally 

aromatic and structured grapes. Climate is only one part 

of the equation that produces a good wine, along with 

geology, topography and of course the expertise of the 

winemaker. Vineyard management and winemaking 

techniques also help preserve freshness and create wines 

with lower potential alcohols”. The jury is still out 

however on whether the preferred blending partner for 

Cabernet will still be Merlot in years to come. “Cabernet- 

Sauvignon still has its place in the Médoc”, says Patrice 

Belly, owner of Château Tour Bel Air. “It should even 

strengthen its position with climate change, despite its 

sensitivity to grapevine trunk diseases. The issue is more 

about how to reduce the presence of Merlot and which 

new grape varieties should be blended with Cabernet. 

Introducing a little Syrah would be a bonus in terms of 

aromatics”. Petit Verdot – already grown in Bordeaux – 

is also among contenders with the ability to rise to the 

challenge of higher temperatures, while adding finesse 

and magnificent aromas. Many experts predict an increase 

in the proportion of Cabernet in Bordeaux blends, which 

is what has occurred in Margaux, for example. Inevitably, 

the aromas and taste profile of wines will evolve with 

global warming, as will production processes and, above 

all, consumer expectations. It is probably true to say that 

the overarching ability to adapt will be the real challenge 

for Bordeaux producers. 

Sébastien Petit checks the ripeness of the fruit 

Patrice Belly during the harvest meal 


BEAUJOLAIS 

– HISTORY – 

Planting Sauvignon at Château de Durette 

Beaujolais Crus: 

back in the limelight 

For many years, Beaujolais was considered a cheap and cheerful wine, 

and was highly underrated. And yet, it is home to 10 superior growths or Crus 

which enhance this endearing wine region, that for too long has remained 

in the shadows of neighbouring Burgundy. Each Cru has a distinctive identity 

and the sum of their talents creates incredible variety, stemming 

from highly specific vineyard sites. 

44 SUMMER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

By Jean-Paul Burias - Photographs: courtesy of the estates - © E. Perrin

BEAUJOLAIS 


The granite on the outskirts of Mâcon, the capital 

of southern Burgundy, connects with the claylimestone 

soils of the south, near Lyon, one of 

France’s largest cities and once the capital of the 

Gauls. Here, the ‘terroir’ borders on perfection. 

The 15,000 hectares of Beaujolais vineyards deliver a raft 

of outstanding natural qualities, which pundits for some 

years now have extolled. The much-maligned region 

of the past was long marred by the marketing image of 

Beaujolais Nouveau, released every third Thursday in 

November, which ultimately did a disservice to its quality 

endorsement, just waiting to be explored. Whilst the earlydrinking 

offering helped raise awareness of the appellation, 

its unbridled productivity unfortunately culminated in the 

emergence of vapid quaffers. Fortunately, winegrowers 

have worked hard to reverse this detrimental trend and 

now produce wonderful pours showing great finesse 

and fruit. On the palate, these pleasurable wines display 

beautiful structure, and a crisp, moreish edge with soft 

tannins. Beaujolais’ pedigree is being reinstated while the 

appellation is also successfully appealing to a younger and 

more international audience. Read on for the proof! 

Harvesting grapes at the Grands Vins de Fleurie winery 

SAINT-AMOUR: A NAME MADE IN HEAVEN 

For those unfamiliar with it, it is an astonishing ritual. 

Couples travel from around the world to Saint-Amour 

to confirm their wedding vows in this most aptly-named 

village. Over the years, the appellation’s most northerly 

Cru has carved out a reputation for itself as a Beaujolais 

benchmark. Since 1927, the Grands Vins de Fleurie winery 

has successfully captured and revealed the typicity of its 

many vineyard sites, producing lively, balanced Saint- 

Amour wines. “From the valley floor to the upper slopes, 

each vineyard site with its granite and siliceous-clay soils, 

pebbles and layered schist tells our story through each 

of our wines”, muses Guillaume Manin, who has been 

the winery’s chairman since 2018. “The different sites 

differentiate our wines and their characters”. Fruity, full 

of generosity and indulgent flavours, Saint-Amour wines 

show off a distinctive sparkling garnet hue with purple 

tints. Their warm nose opens up to intense notes of black 

fruits such as blackberry or blueberry before flowing into 

liquorice nuances. With beautiful intensity, their subtlety 

Guillaume Manin, chairman of the Grands 

Vins de Fleurie winery since 2018 


BEAUJOLAIS 


Katy and David Duthel, owners of Domaine Ruet 

and wonderful differences put a stamp on the wines, with a 

long and delicate palate revealing crisp, satisfying tannins. 

BROUILLY: THE EPITOME OF GAMAY 

Brouilly has been an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) 

since 1938 and is considered to be Beaujolais’ greatest Cru. Its 

wines offer the perfect definition of simplicity, pleasure and 

good taste. Since 1926, at the foot of Brouilly’s remarkable 

vineyard sites, Domaine Ruet’s 19-hectare vineyard has 

extended over rolling hills with a magnificent southern aspect. 

The granite, stony and shallow soils of northern Beaujolais are 

conducive to producing fine wines. “The depth and breadth of 

vineyard sites make each appellation unique”, explains Katy 

Duthel, the winery’s owner with her husband David. “The 

finesse of the wines is exemplified by the rounded, elegant 

tannins, a nose which combines sun-filled forest floor and 

red fruits, and a closing freshness imparted by the minerality 

of the pink granite soil”. The palate is driven by notes of 

fine raspberry and blackberry perfumes and spices. Old-vine 

Brouilly titillates the tastebuds with its balance, silky tannins 

and reassuringly fresh finish instilled by the minerality. 


BEAUJOLAIS 


The Depardon family: Olivier, the father, Maurice, the grand-father and Alexis 

MORGON: RICH AND SEDUCTIVE 

Or where reputation and reality meet. Legend has 

it that Morgon boasts the fruitiness of a Beaujolais 

and the charm of a Burgundy. Stemming from unique 

soils of decomposed rock and friable schist, the wine 

displays a deep garnet colour and aromas of ripe fruit 

with beguiling fullness on the palate. Founded by 

Henri Depardon in 1848, Domaine de la Bêche is an 

appellation benchmark, and has been passed down for 

8 generations. Aged just 20, Alexis Depardon joined the 

business in 2015, followed by his older sister Caroline 

in the sales department in 2018. “What makes our wines 

distinctive is the expertise our predecessors have passed 

on to us, and of course our vineyard sites”, explains 

Olivier Depardon, who took over the reins of the estate 

in 1985. The fruit is destemmed before the winemaking 

process and soaking lasts for 12 to 15 days”. The result 

is quite simply striking, with Morgon wines showing 

remarkable, hallmark aromatic complexity, power, fat 

and weight, and noticeably well-integrated tannins. 


BEAUJOLAIS 


Built in 1759, Château Grange Cochard covers 8.5 hectares 

in Morgon on sloping granite and schist sites. “Our fruitforward 

wines are characterised by their velvety feel, great 

freshness and length and an authenticity that people 

seek out”, explains Jean-Philippe Manchès, who bought 

the chateau with Jean-Philippe Janoueix last year. “They 

have an unmistakable taste due to the vineyard site, 

microclimate and their specific character”. The Gamay 

grape variety fully instils its quality in wines that are as 

clear as they are silky and seductive. 

Jean-Philippe Janoueix, one of Château Grange 

Cochard’s two owners 

JULIÉNAS: INTENSE REDS 

Juliénas wines are perfumed and reveal a pleasant 

bouquet of peach, red fruit and floral aromas. Established 

in 1877 on very stony, granite soils on one of the best 

slopes in the appellation, Domaine de la Bottière belongs 

to Domaine Laurent Perrachon & Fils. It exemplifies 

their quintessential qualities, using ancient techniques, 

hand harvesting and yields per vine that are some of the 

lowest in France. “Our techniques and the characteristics 

of the soils guarantee the quality and authenticity of 

our 6 Beaujolais crus, Chénas, Fleurie, Morgon, Moulinà-Vent, 

Saint Amour and of course Juliénas”, explains 

Maxime Perrachon, the sixth generation at the helm of 

the estate. “With its superb, intense red hue, Juliénas is 

a rich, powerful, nervy and deeply coloured wine, with 

very distinguished aromas. It can age very well for five 

to six years and then make a pleasant partner for coq au 

vin, other poultry or white meat”. Juliénas is fruity and 

pleasant, filling the mouth with a harmonious, balanced 

and long fleshy feel, which fully expresses itself. 

Laurent Perrachon, currently the sixth generation 

of the Perrachon family to run the estate 

CÔTE-DE-BROUILLY: DELICIOUSLY RACY 

On the steep, well-exposed slopes of Mount Brouilly, the 

vineyards of Côte-de-Brouilly thrive on soil that is one 

of a kind in Beaujolais. Its blend of granite and schist 

promotes production of crimson-hued, racy wines that 

need to mature before they fully develop their elegance 

on the palate. Since its inception in 1882, Maison Ferraud 

has shied away from standardisation and has worked 

tirelessly to ensure that each wine retains its typicity 

and character. Its wines, such as the fruity, fresh Côtede-Brouilly 

Domaine Rolland typical of the appellation, 


BEAUJOLAIS 


Yves-Dominique Ferraud, owner of Domaine Rolland Ferraud 

have been extremely successful in export markets, which 

is the destination for nearly 70% of total production, 

sent to forty countries. “Each wine is made at the 

individual estates by a winemaker specific to each of the 

appellations and not by winemakers who travel from one 

Cru to another”, says Yves-Dominique Ferraud. “Despite 

the fact that all the wines are made from a single grape 

variety, white-juice Gamay noir, the character of each Cru 

and their differences stem from several factors such as the 

age of the vines, vineyard management techniques, but 

above all and primarily from the vineyard sites which are 

home to an amazing array of soil types”. 

CHIROUBLES: WINES AT THEIR PEAK 

Located at an altitude of 400 m, this 300-ha vineyard 

area is the highest in Beaujolais. Set in the heart 

of the Chiroubles, Fleurie and Morgon appellations, 

Domaine Anthony Charvet has a totemic location, on 


Fleurie winery 

Grapes arriving at the Grands Vins de Fleurie winery 

Marguerite Chabert chair of 

the Grands Vins de Fleurie 

winery from 1946 to 1984 

David Duthel, owner of 

Domaine Ruet in his cellars 

Katy Duthel of Domaine Ruet 

tasting her wines 

Alexis, Tom and 

Olivier Depardon 

The Perrachon 

family 

The cellars at Domaine de la 

Bêche Olivier Depardon 

The superb vineyards at Château de Poncié 

Yves-Dominique Ferraud 

tasting his wines 

Château de Chénas 

Jean-Philippe 

Manchès, one of 

Château Grange 

Cochard’s two owners

BEAUJOLAIS 


Chiroubles road. The tenth generation to farm Gamay 

vines, Anthony Charvet is the 42-year-old custodian 

of the quality of the estate’s wines. “The Chiroubles 

Granite boasts an outstanding vineyard site”, he says. 

“The partially de-stemmed grapes are grown on fiftyyear-old 

vines planted on 1.5 hectares of granite soil. 

The vines are located on slopes where the rock dates back 

320 million years. They have the highest granite content 

in Beaujolais, hence the name. The fruit undergoes 

soaking for 12 to 13 days”. This winning formula fully 

encapsulates the qualities of Chiroubles, displayed in the 

fruitiness of the nose and on the palate, their length and 

finesse, and their magnificent supporting tannins. 

RÉGNIÉ: SUPPLE AND WELL-STRUCTURED 

Régnié is the youngest Beaujolais, legally endorsed in 

just 1988, and covers 650 hectares. Fanning out around 

the church with two steeples in Régnié-Durette, the 

vineyards produce distinctively supple, well-structured 

wines, with a cherry hue and aromas of redcurrant, 

blackberry and raspberry. One of the jewels in the 

appellation’s crown, Château de Durette produces a wide 

range of Beaujolais Crus, which best reflect their identity 

and their terroir. “Our aim is to offer wines with good 

drinkability and site-expressiveness with Gamay fruitdominant 

characters”, says owner Marc Theissen. “Each 

vineyard site has its own identity, but each appellation is 

unmistakably Gamay. The magical thing about this grape 

variety is that it can be fleshy and powerful in Moulinà-Vent, 

elegant and fruity in Fleurie, lively and racy in 

Côte-de-Brouilly, structured and spicy in Morgon, ample 

and generous in Juliénas and fruity and joyful in Régnié”. 

Anthony Charvet tasting his wines 

FLEURIE: MAJESTIC BEAUTY 

This velvety, elegant wine is increasingly gaining traction 

with consumers the world over. The extraordinary variety 

of vineyard sites here offers the incentive to work to high 

standards while adopting a painstaking single-vineyard 

approach with naturally limited yields. At Château de 

Poncié, every effort is made to ensure that the winemaking 

process preserves the spirit of Fleurie, but without being a 

slave to tradition. The result is fresh, lifted, harmonious 

wines and a silky texture that has carved out the chateau’s 

The winemaking team at Château de Durette, André Desplace and 

Marc Theissen 


BEAUJOLAIS 


Some of the estate’s staff at Château de Poncié 

reputation for excellence. “We are fortunate to have 

a choice of Beaujolais with wines showing different 

characters, ranging from moreishly fruity to complex 

and fruity and prestige wines”, comments estate director 

Marion Fessy. “The sun-filled, silky Fleurie 949 label has 

all the qualities of a magnificent wine and is increasingly 

popular abroad”. 

MOULIN-À-VENT: STRUCTURED AND ROBUST 

Moulin-à-Vent with its 680 hectares under vine is without 

doubt the most prestigious Beaujolais Cru. This structured, 

robust and age-worthy wine, with aromas of iris, wilted 

roses and spices, is increasingly successful, especially in 

export markets. The Château de Chénas winery currently 

represents 80 winegrowing families farming 200 hectares 

of vines. “The defining feature of our wines is a threefold 

combination of predominantly granite soils with 

the influence of the Saône valley; the stellar grape variety 

Gamay, that can adapt to change; and winegrowers using 


BEAUJOLAIS 


different vineyard techniques”, comments cellar master 

Célestin Perraud. “Beaujolais is a very hilly region with 

a variety of soils and micro-climates which explains why 

there is such a difference between the vineyard sites and 

a number of winemaking techniques specific to certain 

Crus such as Moulin-à-Vent”. 

CHÉNAS: THE SMALL GIANT 

The smallest Cru in Beaujolais covers just 280 hectares. 

Chénas wines are defined by their full-bodied character 

and floral and oaky notes. The Château de Chénas 

winery has a rich history, augmented by the experience 

of time, great vineyard sites and ancient expertise, which 

are attracting a growing following. Exports bring in 30% 

of revenue, with the wines shipped mainly to the United 

Kingdom, the United States, Japan, China, Belgium and 

Denmark. “Chénas wines are modern with moderate 

alcohol, lovely fruit and a pleasant rounded mouthfeel 

that is not too tannic. They work well with different types 

of cuisine”, stresses winery director Didier Rageot. “The 

Chénas Coeur de Granit typifies the appellation, with its 

very pure, assertive fruit and beautiful harmony”. 

Célestin Perraud, cellar master at Château de 

Chénas 

AUTHENTICITY MAKES A COMEBACK 

Beaujolais has pulled off its gamble and all but shed 

the quasi-industrial image of a bad era. The Crus tend 

to spearhead the region’s wine proposition, buoyed 

by values clearly aimed at the future, including a 

reduction in yields, quality crop and winemaking 

techniques and optimisation of production facilities. 

The marketing board and a majority of wine growers 

have managed to raise standards and are now scaling 

the heights of quality. The easy to drink, sometimes 

slightly heavy wines have been superseded by mineral, 

powerful, elegant pours, with an incredibly rich flavour 

spectrum. The improved visibility of the region’s ageworthy 

offerings has prompted renewed interest from 

the trade and public alike. Above all, it has boosted sales 

across the distribution channels and helped claim back 

market shares by volume and value both in France and 

worldwide. Gamay, which had not been a fashionable 

grape variety, has now regained its soft spot in the hearts 

of consumers. 

Didier Rageot, director of Château de Chénas 


Mogens Olesen: wine, roses and rhinos! 

The animal in the picture has been anaesthetised 

to measure its horn 

SOUTH-WEST 

– WINE GROWER PORTRAIT – 

Mogens Olesen, 

owner of Château Lecusse, 

and a serial entrepreneur 

The 72-year-old Dane answers our questions in impeccable French, 

in the car driven by his wife. 

By Alain Echalier - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 


SOUTH-WEST 

– WINE GROWER PORTRAIT – 

Mogens Olesen takes great pride in garnering accolades for his barrel-matured wines 

Mogens Olesen first trained in Copenhagen as a horticultural engineer, his studies 

including genetics, growing plants and producing fermented cherry wines - a 

major Danish speciality at the time. 

It was therefore only natural that he and his wife, who comes from a family of 

horticulturalists, should buy a nursery north of the city. They stopped selling 

plants and focused on breeding roses and clematis. The company, Poulsen Roser, now employs 

a dozen people and files about 30 patents a year. Mogens explains how, at the beginning of the 

1990s, the financial success they achieved by creating a dwarf rose in a pot, gave them the idea 

of investing in a vineyard in the South of France. 

After spending six months at INRA in Versailles after graduating, but also in Fréjus, he had 

developed a fondness for two things – wine, which he drank with colleagues at lunch, and a 

mild late autumn. In Denmark, summer is often over by the end of August. 

His aim of having a small estate, but one “with good soils and something to do”, led him to 

buy Château Lecusse, which then had 10 hectares under vine. Gaillac is a mature wine region 

with clay-limestone soils that retain water well, and weather that is conducive to winegrowing. 

Twenty-seven years later, the entrepreneur, who spends nearly 6 months a year on the estate, 

has significantly expanded the property to 52 hectares of vines. His greatest pride is garnering 

good tasting scores for his high-end wines matured in new barrels. His biggest disappointment? 

“French administration, especially for labour laws!” The estate also encompasses a few hectares 

of lavender for producing oil, saffron, roses and olive trees. 

Fourteen years ago Mogens, who never stops working, even bought a “breeding farm to protect 

wild animals (rhinoceroses...)”, which are then sold to wildlife parks. 

Does he think about retirement? Not on your life! 


ALCOHOL-FREE 

– LOOKING AHEAD – 

Harvesting at Iris Vigneti in DOC Prosecco 

No-low wines: 

a full-fledged market category 

In its definition of wine, the International Organisation of Vine and Wine specifies 

that it must have a minimum ABV of 8.5%, with regional exceptions of 7%. Many 

countries have used this as a model for their own regulations, compelling them to 

find another term for these uber-trendy drinks. We interviewed producers in France, 

Italy and South Africa to find out more. 

By Charlie Elaina - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 


ALCOHOL-FREE 


Syrah grown at Darling Cellars 

Everyone knows that classic wine production 

involves transforming the sugar in the grape juice 

into alcohol and aromas during fermentation. To 

reduce alcohol levels, some producers therefore 

select grape varieties that do not contain too 

much sugar. Similarly, a high-bearing vine or even an 

irrigated vineyard keeps concentrations down. Another 

alternative is to harvest the grapes before they get too 

sweet, or to choose yeast strains that produce lower 

alcohol. 

THE DIFFERENT PRODUCTION 

TECHNIQUES USED 

Subsequently, once fermentation is over, three different 

strategies can be used: 

Low-temperature vacuum distillation (stripping): Under 

atmospheric pressure, ethanol evaporates at around 

78°C, but the aromatic compounds are lost. Conversely, 

by sufficiently lowering the pressure, evaporation can 

occur at around 35-50°C, which is less harmful to 

aroma. This technique removes virtually all the alcohol 

whilst promoting better quality. 

Another approach is reverse osmosis. This is where 

membranes are used to separate components, and it is 

the least expensive technique. It does not take up much 


ALCOHOL-FREE 


Mathilde Boulachin created the Pierre Chavin company in Béziers in 2010 

room, and can fit in a lorry and be taken to the winery. 

But it only partially removes alcohol, and is generally 

used to remove 1 to 2%. 

Finally, there is the Spinning Cone Column. Centrifugal 

force is used to obtain a thin layer of wine, which is cold 

distilled under a partial vacuum, as in the first method. 

It can also be done in a lorry, and can almost completely 

remove the alcohol. 

There are also techniques where the grape juice is 

processed before fermentation. In this case, some of 

the sugar has to be removed, and can be replaced by 

sweeteners. Aromas and tannins are generally added 

through maceration, producing alcohol-free drinks. 

PIERRE CHAVIN, RESPONDING 

TO A NEW MARKET 

After a career in wine marketing and communication, 

Mathilde Boulachin created the Pierre Chavin company 

in Béziers in 2010. The tack taken here is to combine a 

sensitive approach to consumer demand with innovation, 


ALCOHOL-FREE 


and not to be afraid of shaking up conventions. It wasn’t 

long before this strategy led to the advent of a ‘no-low’ 

range, which currently represents nearly 40% of the 

1,500,000 bottles sold annually. 

“The wines attract a varied customer base”, explains 

Boulachin. Women – and not just during pregnancy 

and early motherhood – are clear targets. Labels such 

as ‘Zéra’ and ‘Silhouet’ convey the image of a healthy, 

low-calorie drink. Young urban drinkers are another 

category. Often cosmopolitan professionals, they refuse 

to drink alcohol during the week, but do not want to give 

up their evening aperitif. Similarly, there are population 

sub-sets such as sportsmen and women, for whom 

alcohol could affect performance. The Nordic countries, 

where driving totally precludes alcohol consumption, are 

another obvious example. By selling her range online, 

alongside traditional distribution channels, Boulachin 

is honing her understanding of her customers and 

adapting her choice of products. She is also attentive to 

the keywords used in search engines. Another category 

not to be overlooked is senior citizens taking medication 

which cannot be mixed with alcohol, or corporate 

occasions where legal responsibility issues discourage 

consumption. The opportunities for alcohol-free or lowalcohol 

products are multifarious and growing. 

Opia, a brand by Pierre Chavin clearly targets pregnant women 

THE WINE CONNECTION 

From a flavour perspective, Boulachin is not looking for 

a comparable taste experience with wine. Obviously, 

when you deliberately remove a cornerstone of the acidalcohol-sugar 

balance, it is a game-changer. Ed: Wine’s 

high acidity – with a pH of 3 to 4 – would most certainly 

become unpleasant, and is usually counterbalanced by 

slightly higher sugar content, while lowering the total 

number of calories. “But if you make a quality product, 

the experience remains pleasurable”, she says. “We want 

to be loved for what we are, and to build customer 

loyalty”. 

The company has clearly positioned itself, however, as 

wine-centric. Although the grape varieties used are not 

blended – those selected have to be highly aromatic – they 

are clearly stated on the labels. Similarly, the appearance 

of the bottles is akin to those for wine and you have 

Senior citizens may take medication that prevents them from 

drinking alcohol 


ALCOHOL-FREE 


Mathilde Boulachin 

to carefully read the label to differentiate between the 

two. Lastly, the name itself, ‘Chavin’ carries a promise 

that is not just subliminal. “Wine consumption has a 

strong social element and so we must allow consumers to 

connect with others or like others, without setting them 

apart”, explains Boulachin. The fact that her best-seller is 

a sparkling drink is no coincidence! 

Non-alcoholic products that do not come under the 

wine category do not enjoy the same exemption from 

nutritional statements as wine, which therefore have to 

be included. Similarly, they have a five-year shelf life, 

and the concept of bottle ageing and ideal drinking 

window is irrelevant – these products do not mature. But 

what bothers Boulachin most is the unfair competition. 

In some of her markets – 80% of them overseas – 

particularly for online sales and marketing, rival firms 

can call the products ‘de-alcoholised wine’, whereas she 

is not entitled to use the word ‘wine’. 

CHAVIN FOCUSES ON SOCIAL AS WELL AS 

ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 

The company is mindful to take on board the concerns 

expressed by its customers and has therefore developed 

a range of organic wines with evocative names such as 

‘Greenia’. The labels emphasise their health credentials 

by containing ‘no added sulphites’. The Opia brand, 

developed for Monoprix in France, stresses that the 

organic wine contains ‘no pesticide residues’. Also, the 

wines contain no animal products and are entitled to 

use the Vegan logo. The company similarly publicises 

issues such as ecology and a sustainable economy. Japan, 

the USA, Canada and Northern Europe pay particular 

attention to these issues. Bottles bound for Sweden and 

China are exported by train, which has a better carbon 

footprint than air travel. 

Loris Casonato, a winegrower in DOC Prosecco 

IRIS VIGNETI: 

ALCOHOL-FREE ITALIAN BUBBLES 

Located in the heart of the DOC Prosecco area, Loris 

Casonato farms some 20 hectares and also has contracts 

with a few surrounding vineyards. The winemaker 

produces the famous Venetian sparkling wine, but about 

ten years ago he also started to produce a non-alcoholic 


ALCOHOL-FREE 


sparkling drink sourced from his own vineyards, which 

go into 2 different labels: BELLA and ZEROZERO! 

Volumes have gradually grown and the range, which 

includes four labels, now totals 300,000 bottles per 

year. For the white sparkling drink, the Glera grape 

variety is used with Raboso added for the rosé version. 

The grapes are deliberately harvested early, to avoid 

sugar accumulation. But in this case, to be absolutely 

alcohol-free, Casonato does not ferment. Unlike the 

other alcohol-free products which are dealcoholized, for 

the sparkling drink the must is kept cool to prevent it 

from fermenting, and the juice is macerated with herbs. 

The recipe remains a secret, but Casonato insists that it 

“required a lot of effort but also passion”. 

Then the drink is carbonated at around 4.8 bar, the same 

pressure found in a Prosecco. In terms of sugar content, 

he markets two ranges: around 100 g/l, and around 

60 g/l for those who pay attention to sugar levels. At 

60 g/l it is half as sweet as a typical soda. For Casonato, 

this is a new type of drink that honours the heritage of 

wine and grapes, yet is very different to wine. It is a niche 

market that is now established. It is limited but here to 

stay. “It’s still better than a Cola!” smiles the mischievous 

winemaker. 

The Zerozero Blue label by IRIS Vigneti won a gold 

medal in the 2021 Gilbert & Gaillard International 

Challenge 

DARLING CELLARS: 

SOUTH AFRICA ENTERS THE FRAY 

Pieter-Niel Rossouw is tasked with viticulture and 

winemaking at Darling Cellars which produces 

5 million litres per year, bottled at the estate. It is 

renowned for its Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc. 

A previous experience at another property familiarised 

him with the technique of de-alcoholising wines using 

the spinning cone column. He experimented with the 

idea and has been using it for 2-3 years. There is a choice 

of a red, a white and a rosé. Rossouw insists on the fact 

that the quality of the grapes is the same as for the wines: 

the vines are generally bush-trained and dry farmed. 

After fermentation, the wines are almost completely 

de-alcoholised using an external service provider. They 

contain 20 to 30 grams of sugar per litre, to compensate 

for the body normally imparted by the alcohol, which acts 

as a kind of ‘glue’. Production has reached 100,000 litres 

Bush-trained, dry-farmed vineyards at Darling Cellars 


ALCOHOL-FREE 


Pieter-Niel Rossouw, head winemaker at Darling Cellars 

per year and counting. Currently, the market is essentially 

local, with new laws prohibiting the consumption of 

alcohol before driving boosting growth. Here, regulations 

authorise the moniker ‘de-alcoholised wine’. But export 

markets are also taking shape, and Darling Cellars works 

with countries such as Canada, the United Kingdom and 

Scandinavia. 

A RIVAL FOR SOFT DRINKS? 

This raft of new products, which mostly target non-wineproducing 

countries, are making steady progress. Will 

there be a transfer of market shares and a more rapid 

decline in wine consumption observed in many markets? 

Or will these innovative beverages enter a head-to-head 

battle with ultra-sweet industrial soft drinks? We certainly 

wouldn’t be upset if they did! Watch this space… 


A scenic aerial view of Soalheiro winery 

SPAIN-PORTUGAL 


ALBARIÑO OR ALVARINHO 

Spain or Portugal… 

that is the question 

The Miño River is located in the north-west of the Iberian Peninsula and the 

Rías Baixas Designation of Origin is situated along its banks. Here, various 

grape varieties are grown – including Godello, Torrontés and Caiño Blanco – 

but the ‘Belle of the Ball’ is Albariño. Follow the Miño River and you enter 

Portugal and the Vinho Verde DOC, where varieties include Alvarinho. 

But what is the difference between Portugal’s Alvarinho and Spain’s Albariño? 

By Santiago Jimenez - Photographs: courtesy of the estates - ©Garabato-photo.com 




Alvarinho grapes arriving at Bodega Aveleda 

after being harvested 

Native fauna is part of winegrowing at Aveleda 

An aerial view of Aveleda’s vineyards 

In actual fact, they are not different grape varieties but 

one and the same, although slight differences can be 

found between them depending on the region where 

they are grown, as is the case with other grape varieties 

and regions. 

Below is a selection of Spanish and Portuguese wineries 

where wines are made using the variety. They share their 

vision of this dialogue between Alvarinho and Albariño. 

AVELEDA (VINHO VERDE DOC – PORTUGAL) – 

IN THE VANGUARD 

This winery was established over 150 years ago in 1870 by 

Manuel Pedro Guedes. It is a traditional Vinho Verde winery, 

the major producer in this region and one of the most 

significant in Portugal for production and sales volumes. 

It produces wines in four different Portuguese designations 

of origin. It farms some 800 hectares of vineyards in the 

region and exports over 1 million boxes of wine to over 150 

countries, among them the United States, Canada, Brazil 

and France where the market share of wines made from the 

variety is on average 45%. 

The company has been owned and run by the same family 

for over 5 generations, and sustainable growth, conservation 




of nature, people and family are its guiding values. Its 

wines reflect this passion for wine and respect for the 

terroir, irrespective of whether they are made from 

Alvarinho grapes or in other regions where it also makes 

wine. 

Here, Alvarinho vineyards are planted differently to their 

counterparts in Spain. “In our vineyards (in Aveleda), 

we have a vertical conduction system, in contrast to the 

majority of Albariño vineyard management in Spain, 

which uses a rebounding conduction system.” 

RECTORAL DO UMIA (RÍAS BAIXAS D.O. – 

SPAIN) – TERROIR TRANSLATED INTO WINE 

This winery is part of the Bodegas Gallegas Group which 

produces wine in various designations of origin across 

the region. It is the second most important winery in the 

group for production of Albariño. 

Its philosophy is to “make the wine convey the characteristics 

of the terroir and the winery’s microclimate, without altering 

its identity. We have moved away from standardization 

because we are looking for our own profile of wines which 

the consumer is able to identify as wine by Rectoral do 

Umia. We make wines of extremely high quality at very 

competitive prices.” According to the winemaker, what 

distinguishes Albariño from Alvarinho “are two factors: 

the aspect and configuration of the plots; and the different 

kinds of soil where the vines are cultivated.” 

Production totals around 2 million bottles with more or 

less half earmarked for export (52%) and the other half 

for the home market (48%). The winery has a presence 

on 5 continents, and some of its main markets include 

the United Kingdom, the United States, Canada, South 

Korea, Japan, Germany, Australia, Brazil and Switzerland. 

Harvest time at Bodega Rectoral de Umia 

PABLO PADÍN (RÍAS BAIXAS D.O. – SPAIN) – 

RESPECT FOR TRADITION AND PROVENANCE 

Pablo Padin is a family-run winery which focuses on 

making and marketing still and sparkling wines from 

Albariño. The venture started in 1984 as a small family 

project which grew through technological improvements, 

modernization of infrastructure and experience, accrued 

over the years. The result is substantial prestige both 

nationally and internationally. 

In 2012, the winery pioneered production of the 

first sparkling Albariño wines under the Rías Baixas 

Jorge Hervella, the winemaker at Bodegas Pablo Padín 




Hand harvesting is a hard job over which Bodegas Pablo Padín 

takes particular care 

D.O., using the traditional method, similar to French 

Champagnes and Spanish Cava. 

The winery’s ethos revolves around “significant respect 

for tradition and our origins, where we endeavour to 

show care throughout the entire production process, 

from carefully nurturing the vines to choosing the grape 

for each of our wines, tending to every need throughout 

the entire winemaking process to obtain maximum 

expression from the land and variety.” 

At Pablo Padin, the feeling is that there are subtle 

differences which distinguish Albariño from Alvarinho 

and also other Albariño wines made across the world: 

“Despite being the same variety of grape, the land, 

the region is what characterizes differences in identity, 

aromatic notes, nuances of taste, levels of acidity and 

minerality.” 

José Oliveira is the winemaker and managing director 

at Bodega Ponte da Barca 

ADEGA PONTE DA BARCA (VINHO VERDE DOC 

– PORTUGAL) – WHERE ORIGIN MATTERS 

This winery was established in 1963, although it was not 

until five years later, in 1968, that its operations started. 

After over 50 years making wine, it continues to place 

great value on making wines from indigenous varieties 

from the region, which obviously include Alvarinho. 

Around 1,000 winegrowers belong to this winery, farming 

a sizeable 1,200 hectares of vines. 

In recent years, Adega Ponte da Barca has invested in the 

latest technology in order to preserve and improve the 

quality and authenticity of its wines. 

The winery “intends to remain faithful to its principle 

of ‘Origin Matters’. Therefore, the main mission is to 

produce unique wines that impress through the pleasure 

of being enjoyed in good company and in moderation”. 

According to Adega Ponte da Barca, there are three factors 

that distinguish Alvarinho from Albariño: the microclimate 

of each region, producing differing characters; vineyard 

management systems and winemaking techniques. In 

Rías Baixas, the pergola training system is used, leading to 

the development of vigorous vines, while in Vinho Verde, 

the simple cordon is preferred, the greatest advantage of 

which is improved fruit quality. With Albariño, malolactic 

fermentation is utilized, whereas with Alvarinho, it is not, 

making the wines fresher, although it is common to use 

batonnage in the winemaking process. All these factors 

make the wines different. 


A pretty detail of Alvarinho vineyards at Bodega Aveleda 

Bunches of Albariño grapes at Bodega Rectoral de Umia 

Collecting clusters of Albariño grapes at Bodegas Pablo Padín 

Winegrower Baltasar Tirado carries out all the work at the winery 

and vineyards at Terras de Compostela 

A general view of the vineyards at Bodega Ponte da Barca 

A nighttime view of the inner patio at Bodega Viña Cartín 

Viña San Mamede’s privileged aspect and granite soils at Bodega Terras de Compostela 

The stainless steel vat room at Viña Cartín



One of the workers at Soalheiro with a handful 

of Alvarinho grapes 

The winemaker at Soalheiro is 

António Luís Cerdeira 

Soalheiro barrels hold wine until it is bottled 

SOALHEIRO (VINHO VERDE DOC – PORTUGAL) 

– PIONEERS 

Four generations of the family have passed through this 

Portuguese winery and have pioneered production and 

marketing of Alvarinho wines in the region of Melgaço, 

making their winery an industry leader. 

A champion of sustainability, based on respect for the 

soil, plants and man, they consider the original terroir to 

be of paramount importance. 

The upper section of the recently renovated winery 

has a wine-tasting room which leads to a terrace from 

where unbroken views extend over the vineyards, the 

mountains which enclose the valley and neighbouring 

Spain. You can feel the breeze coming off the Miño River 

flowing nearby. The winery offers a panorama of the 

region’s unique land. 

This family’s commitment to the future of Alvarinho wine 

is reflected in its dedication to the highest production 




standards for the variety, its sustained investment and 

determination to protect this region’s unique environment 

by promoting sustainable winegrowing. 

Soalheiro has a team of over 30 people. It also brings 

together over 150 families of winegrowers, the majority 

of whom have other professional occupations and work 

on small plots at the end of the day and at weekends. 

They treat their vineyards like small gardens, creating a 

very diverse ‘Alvarinho culture’ throughout the area and 

providing grapes of prime quality. 

The winery’s perception echoes that of other producers: 

“The different kinds of areas give rise to different styles of 

wine made from the same grape variety.” 

TERRAS DE COMPOSTELA (RÍAS BAIXAS D.O. – 

SPAIN) – ENCAPSULATING AROMAS 

The name of this winery arises from the fact that Valle 

del Salnés belongs to the archbishopric of Compóstela, 

which has a major influence throughout the entire 

valley. Several generations of the winery’s owners have 

worked on the land and on farming vineyards, which 

today, together with technological improvements, have 

succeeded in producing high quality wines. 

All the vineyards are very close to the Atlantic Ocean, 

which confers very specific characters to the wines made 

at their winery. 

The main thing, when working in the vineyard, is to make 

sure “the soil has life and diversity in flora and fauna. 

Our work revolves around cultivating high quality fruit 

which encapsulates the aromas of the Albariño variety, 

our granite soils and the Atlantic climate.” Organic 

fertilisers are used here and no herbicides. 

Output is at best quite low, enabling the winery “to 

nurture processes both in the vineyard and at the 

winery.” The highest volume of sales is focused on the 

regional market, at prestigious restaurants “where a lot of 

shellfish and fish are consumed and Albariño wines are 

the perfect partner.” 

The winery confirms our opinion, however, that there 

is no real difference between Albariño and Alvarinho 

grapes. The only contrast between those grown in Spain 

and those in Portugal “is a geographical distinction. 

The variation lies in the types of the soils and weather 

conditions.” 

A family photo of the owners of Soalheiro 

El Hórreo - a typical granary in old Galician farmhouses. 

Terras de Compostela maintains one in very good condition 




A sweeping view of the vineyards at Viña Cartín 

VIÑA CARTÍN (RÍAS BAIXAS D.O. – SPAIN) – 

THE ESSENCE OF ALBARIÑO 

This winery was established in 1977. Since 2003, it has 

been located in Lantaño – Portas where the winery has 

been sensitively restored, seeking a balance between artisanal 

character and new technologies and methods of winemaking. 

It is a very small winery with scarcely 2 hectares of vineyards, 

and so the production volume is limited. Some 200,000 bottles 

are produced a year, 60% shipped to the domestic market and 

40% for exports. 

The philosophy here is to “place value on the natural and 

characteristic resources of our environment: the vineyards 

which create an explosion of colour in Rías Baixas, with 

the green contrasting with the blue of our inlets, make our 

landscape an explosion of beauty which translates into a 

unique resource for wine tourism.” 

According to Viña Cartín, the main difference between Albariño 

and Alvarinho “lies in the microclimate that we have in Rías 

Baixas and its proximity to the sea, in addition to the clay 

and sandy loam soil, which lends it a perfect balance between 

acidity and sweetness.” 


Valerie, one of the winemakers in the Hammeken Cellars’ team 

SPAIN 

– SUCCESS STORY – 

From Copenhagen to 

Alicante… through wine 

Since his youth, Nicholas Hammeken has had such a passion for wine that he has 

dedicated and is still dedicating his time to the world of winegrowing. 

We chatted with the owner of Hammeken Cellars in Denia, in the province 

of Alicante, overlooking the Mediterranean. 

By Santiago Jimenez - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 


SPAIN 


Vineyards in the Yecla region 

Gilbert & Gaillard: Considering that in Denmark, your country of 

origin, grape cultivation is quite limited, where does your passion 

for wine come from? 

I have always been interested in books related to wine. I began to take 

an interest when I was 12. In Denmark, work experience starts at 14, 

and my first placement was at a Danish company that imports wine. 

GG: You set up your own company years ago, but previously 

worked in the industry. What do you remember from your early 

involvement in the wine industry? What did you learn from it? 

My best experience, and perhaps the hardest, was working at 

ODDBINS, a chain of specialised stores in England. There, I had 

the opportunity to deal directly with consumers and to understand 

their doubts and concerns. It is an experience I continue to benefit 

from today. 

GG: When did you decide to start your own company and what was 

your aim? Why Spain? 

In 1996, my partner found a job in Spain as a dentist and I took 

advantage of this opportunity to work as an agent for some wineries 

in Murcia to export their wines to Northern Europe. We immediately 

moved to Jávea from England and invested all our savings in the 

new business. 

GG: Each winery has its own ethos. What is Hammeken Cellars’ 

philosophy? 

When I established Hammeken Cellars, it was difficult to find modern 


SPAIN 


Nicholas Hammeken, owner 

and guiding force behind 

Hammeken Cellars 


Marcelo is director of winemaking 

at Hammeken 

SPAIN 


Spanish wines. I like respecting the traditions of each region, but I 

always seek to interpret this tradition with a modern focus, taking 

advantage of the characteristics and richness of Spanish terroirs, and 

keeping in mind the international consumer accustomed to drinking 

wines with different profiles and from different parts of the world. 

GG: Do consumer trends have an influence on your winemaking 

process? What kind of wines do you make? 

Our wines keep the consumer very much in mind. It is one of 

our major focuses. Currently, the key is sustainability and we are 

concentrating on organic wines which represent almost 50% of our 

portfolio. Spain is an exceptional country for making organic wines; 

the climatic conditions are excellent and this is something that we 

want to harness. 

GG: Different regions imply different types of terroirs and 

wines. How many winemakers make up the team and how much 

independence do they have? 

Our winemaking team is made up of four female and three male 

winemakers with broad international experience. Marcelo Morales, 

our director of winemaking, is responsible for setting the guidelines 


SPAIN 


for making all our wines, but he fully trusts his team and 

their know-how. 

GG: Does your company own vineyards or work with 

partner winegrowers? 

We do not own any vineyards. Our business model 

is based on collaboration with various wineries and 

co-operatives where our partners contribute their facilities 

and the raw materials, and we bring our experience and 

our philosophy, implementing various types of protocols 

and quality controls. The winemaking decisions are made 

by our winemakers. 

GG: Your portfolio is extensive and varied. What are 

your best-sellers and what is your annual production? 

We have brands which have been real commercial successes 

like Radio Boka, Allegranza and Pasas. We are present in 

more than 17 designations of origin and over 30 markets. 

We currently produce over 18 million bottles a year. 

Hammeken Cellars’ partner vineyards in D.O. Bierzo 

GG: You export 97% of your wines. Which are your 

most significant export markets? 

We have extensive presence in Nordic countries – Denmark, 

Norway and Sweden. Also, Central and Eastern Europe 

are key markets for our products. In China, and Asia in 

general, brands such as Allegranza and Creencia are doing 

very well, but we are present in over 30 countries. 

GG: Why do you only market 3% of your wines in 

Spain? Is it about economics or is the Spanish market 

saturated? 

The Spanish consumer is greatly defined by tradition. For 

the majority of our wines priority is given to the product 

rather than factors such as Designation of Origin or family 

tradition, and in Spain, these are BOTH very powerful. 

GG: Climate change is a reality. What has it changed 

for your winemaking and have you introduced any 

immediate measures to mitigate it? 

Sustainability is one of the cornerstones of Hammeken 

Cellars. We are working so that our products become 

increasingly organic and we have implemented various 

projects to reduce our impact as producers. We recently 

launched a line of products – I’M YOUR ORGANIC – 

with which, via Trees for the Future, we are committed to 

planting a tree for every container sold, either bag-in-box 

or bottled formats, thereby eliminating much more CO2 

than we produce during the making and marketing of our 


SPAIN 


Monastrell is one of the grape varieties grown in the Yecla region 

wines. Moreover, we are collaborating with Goodwings to eliminate 

CO2 from our commercial transport and with Plastic Change. 

GG: Last year was very challenging due to Covid and the forced 

closure of hospitality outlets. How did it affect you? 

The pandemic currently affecting us has been devastating for the 

hotel, restaurant and catering sector. Many of our clients who focus 

on distribution in the sector have been affected. Fortunately, our 

business model is sufficiently solid and diversified, and we were 

able to face the global challenges caused by these events. We have 

had to adapt and we have learned to respond to current necessities. 

It has been hard, but what we have learned will help us meet 

future challenges. 

GG: Looking to the future, do you have any projects in the 

pipeline? 

The Department of Innovation, which I lead personally, is one of the 

foundation stones of Hammeken Cellars. We are constantly focusing 

on consumer needs worldwide. 

GG: How do you see the sector now, and in the medium and 

long term? 

With the various vaccination campaigns and current pandemic 

situation, we believe that we are very close to overcoming this 

stumbling block that history has placed in front of us. In the short 

term, we are going to see a rise in enthusiasm; we will regain personal 

contact which is so welcome and we will have to face new changes, 

for sure, but we are really excited. 


The impressive biodiversity of the Brunello di Montalcino area, viewed 

from the privileged position of the vineyards of San Giorgio winery 

ITALY 

– VINEYARDS – 

MONTALCINO 

The ‘promised land’ for 

Sangiovese in Tuscany 

Brunello di Montalcino is, without doubt, one of the most significant designations 

both in Italy and worldwide, but few people know its history. 

By Francesco Saverio Russo - Photographs: courtesy of the estates - © I. Franchini 


ITALY 


The medieval village of Montalcino, south of Siena and west of Pienza, 

ensconced in the splendid setting of the Val d’Orcia Natural Park and 

globally renowned for its precious Brunello di Montalcino wines 

Montalcino’s ability as a region to produce 

great quality wines has been known for 

many centuries, and there is ample evidence 

of this dating back as early as 1500. 

Until the second half of the 19 th century, 

though, the best known and most popular wine from the 

area was a sweet white called Moscatello, which won an 

award at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1867. At that 

time, Clemente Santi’s grandson, Ferruccio Biondi Santi, 

who was following in his grandfather’s footsteps, was 

spurred on by the devastation caused by phylloxera and 

powdery mildew to study the potential of a clone of the 

Sangiovese vine variety. It was locally known as Brunello 

because of the particularly dark colour of the berries. His 

experimentations and research led to the creation of the 

famous Sangiovese Grosso, the variety historically used 

to produce Brunello di Montalcino. 

THE AMERICAN CONNECTION 

Despite numerous awards and recognitions over the years, 

the production area for Brunello remained solely in the 

Montalcino area. Interestingly, one of the reasons for its 

lack of distribution elsewhere was its high selling price 

(which was very rare at the time). The events of the early 

20 th century led to a significant decline in wine production 

across the whole of Italy, with very few producers keeping 

Montalcino production alive between the two wars. At the 

end of the Second World War, as thoughts began turning 

once again to wine production, some people had the 

foresight to agree on rules for the production of Brunello di 

Montalcino, and in 1967 these far-sighted local producers 

united in a consortium. The definitive commercial creation 

of the Brunello di Montalcino “brand” came with Italian 

American brothers John and Harry Mariani who, in 

1978, founded the Banfi winery. They provided the 

structured sales network capable of marketing this great 

wine in the United States and beyond, with a level of 

success and volumes that would have previously been 

unthinkable. Several years later, they obtained DOCG 

status, a fundamental step in the promotion of Brunello 

di Montalcino and its homeland. 

The evocative barrique cellar where Banfi wines are aged 

STRINGENT STANDARDS 

According to current production regulations, Brunello di 

Montalcino DOCG can only be produced from Sangiovese 


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grapes, with a yield per hectare lower than 80 quintals/ha. 

The wine can be released for sale from 1 January of the fifth 

year after the harvest but before that, it must be aged for a 

minimum of two years in wooden barrels and at least four 

months in the bottle. The length of bottle ageing increases 

to six months for the Riserva version, which goes on sale 

after an additional year. Rosso di Montalcino DOC must 

also be produced entirely from Sangiovese grapes, but can 

be sold from 1 September following the harvest. In my 

opinion, Rosso di Montalcino should not be seen as “a 

second-rate wine”, but instead as a wine that is different 

to Brunello, even if it is often produced using younger 

or lesser vines which were destined to become Brunello. 

It can be considered a more contemporary drink, with 

greater versatility and freshness, whilst at the same time 

maintaining richness and a strong varietal and regional 

identity. 

THE CONSORTIUM 

Much of the success of these wines can be ascribed to the 

work of the Consorzio del vino Brunello di Montalcino 

(The Consortium of Brunello di Montalcino wine) which 

today has 218 members representing almost all the wine 

produced from 4,300 hectares of vineyards. Of these, 

3,150 ha are registered as DOC and DOCG (2,100 of 

which have been Brunello since 1997, 510 are Rosso 

di Montalcino, 50 Moscadello, and 480 Sant’Antimo), 

with the remainder used for IGT wines. The vineyards 

cover a total area of 24,000 hectares which coincides 

with the Municipality of Montalcino, 40 km south of 

Siena, bounded by the valleys of the Orcia, Asso and 

Ombrone. This is a unique region in terms of biodiversity, 

morphology and climate. Fifty percent of it is covered by 

woodland and uncultivated land, 10% by olive groves and 

only 15% by vineyards, with the remainder given over to 

arable land, pastures and other crops. The climate, which 

is Mediterranean and predominantly mild, ensures optimal 

ripening conditions for the fruit, aided and abetted by the 

wind that continuously blows. 

Its strategic location between Siena and the Maremma, and 

the fertile land surrounding it, have made Poggio alle Mura 

castle a much sought-after property for centuries. 

Today it is the symbol of the Banfi winery 

A Montalcino vineyard today is worth almost 1 million 

euros per hectare, for a combined total in excess of 2 billion 

euros. Its value is 4,500% more than fifty years ago, with 

strong ongoing growth as new deals continue to be struck 

among the Montalcino hills. 

The barrique cellar at Tenuta San Giorgio owned by the Collemassari 

group 


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The olive groves behind Sant’Antimo Abbey – two Montalcino treasures the Fanti family know well 

In 2019, Montalcino cellars produced over 

141,000 hectolitres of wine, divided between Brunello 

(96,722 hl), Rosso di Montalcino (34,249 hl), Moscadello 

(436 hl) and Sant’Antimo (9,992 hl). Seventy per cent of the 

wine produced locally is destined for export and, as far as 

Brunello is concerned, once in the cellar it becomes a highyield 

investment, with profits that grow commensurately 

with the ageing of the wine until they triple in value. In fact, 

the 340,000 hectolitres of the most recent vintages stored in 

casks in the vaults of the 300 Montalcino wineries are worth 

around 400 million euros, thanks to the high price points 

of bulk wine (up to 1,200 euros per hectolitre), making 

Brunello the most expensive wine in Italy. And that’s not all! 

After bottling and considering prices for the 2014 vintage, 

the value of the finished product will rise threefold, to over 

1.2 billion euros. (Data source: Valoritalia and Winenews) 

REGIONALISM AND SUSTAINABILITY 

Biodiversity is safeguarded by local producers, who are 

increasingly mindful and sensitive custodians of the region. 

The latest analysis by the Consortium confirms that the 

Brunello di Montalcino area boasts a share of organically 

farmed land which is three times higher than the national 

average, or about 50% of the entire DOCG vineyard acreage. 


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WINE TOURISM 

The region’s unspoilt natural surroundings and scenery, 

together with the beauty of the medieval village and 

accommodation provided by Montalcino wineries, have led 

wine tourism to play a pivotal role in regional development. 

With 200,000 visits in 2018 (113% more in the last 

5 years) and over 75,000 overnight stays in a town with a 

population of 6,000, the impact on Montalcino has been 

significant. Half of the local businesses are agricultural, but 

over the years the number of accommodation facilities has 

increased and today there is 1 for every 35 residents with 

92 hotels, farm accommodation and inns. Lastly, there are 

over 50 restaurants and eateries. 

The data stops at 2019 but, although 2020 can be considered 

an ‘annus horribilis’ for the entire Italian wine industry, 

Montalcino has enjoyed early sales. This is in part due to the 

fear of new duties, which has prompted many US buyers 

(Brunello’s main market) to buy new vintages; market 

diversification (varying and carefully selecting markets 

has been one of the pivotal aspects of the marketing 

strategies deployed by Montalcino estates); and finally 

the contribution of individual Italians who, despite the 

pandemic, have shown greater interest in fine wines. 

A corner of paradise for open-air wine tastings at Poggio il Castellare 

winery 

The chairman of the Consortium Fabrizio Bindocci and 

director Michele Fontana explained how the designation 

fared during the pandemic. 

Can you describe how the last year has been for the 

designation? 

FB: We were greatly concerned at the beginning of last year, 

but this initial fear was followed by a strong reaction by the 

wineries, which managed to diversify their business, despite 

the difficulties caused by the pandemic, and continue their 

work in the vineyards. From a commercial point of view, 

the superb 2015 vintage was a great bonus, followed by an 

exceptional vintage in 2016. In a year that the world will 

want to forget in a hurry, Montalcino’s 2020 harvest will 

not be forgotten, as it is considered somewhere between 

excellent and outstanding, allowing us to look to the future 

with optimism. Four years from now we will remember 

that in the overall darkness of 2020, the Brunello vintage 

was a wonderful exception. 

Fabrizio Bindocci, current chairman of the Consorzio del 

Vino Brunello di Montalcino 


Poggio alle Mura castle at the Banfi winery, seen from its sloping vineyards 

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What were the numbers for Brunello di Montalcino 

during the pandemic? 

MF: They were beyond all expectations, particularly 

considering the difficulties caused by the first lockdown 

last year. In 2020 in fact about 9 million approvals were 

delivered for bottles of Brunello di Montalcino, a figure 

well above that of 2019 (+12.2%). The real growth was 

posted in the first part of 2021 though. Over the first four 

months, the increase compared with the same period last 

year was 38%, but what stands out most is the 43% rise in 

government levies paid in the four-month period compared 

to the average of the three-year period from 2018 to 2020. 

Considering the terrible times we have just gone through, 

the overall result is decisively positive, even though under 

normal conditions growth would probably have been even 

stronger. 

Some of the most significant Tuscan and Italian wineries 

demonstrate the importance of the Montalcino region. Here 

is our selection. 

BANFI 

As mentioned earlier, Banfi was founded in 1978 as the 

result of an ambitious and visionary project for the time. 


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The American dream of the two Mariani brothers, John 

and Harry, paved the way for what is still seen today as 

a masterpiece of Italian and international winemaking. 

Initially importers, then owners of the Poggio alle Mura 

estate, the Mariani brothers, with the help of well-known 

oenologist Ezio Rivella, built what is now a 174-hectare 

vineyard dedicated to Brunello di Montalcino, home to 

some of the most representative vines in Tuscan viticulture 

and beyond. This large estate also hosts a variety of olive 

trees, plum trees, cereals and woodlands, providing a rich 

agricultural backdrop for the majestic medieval castle, the 

estate’s symbol. Banfi is located in the southern part of 

the region, 16 kilometres from the centre of Montalcino, 

50 kilometres south of Siena and 130 kilometres south of 

Florence. However, despite its location, it is still a quality 

benchmark for the entire designation. 

The barrique cellar at Banfi castle 

TENUTA SAN GIORGIO - COLLEMASSARI 

Tenuta San Giorgio, founded in 1982, is located near 

Castelnuovo dell’Abate in the town of Montalcino, not far 

from Sant’Antimo Abbey. Since 2016 it has been part of the 

ColleMassari group. The 26 ha of vineyards are set amidst 

unspoilt woodlands and olive groves, from 250 m to 400 m 

above sea level. The approach is the same as the other 

winery in the group (Poggio di Sotto), but in this case the 

soils are very different because they are of volcanic origin, 

which gives depth and elegance to the wines. The company 

is in the process of converting to organic. The entrepreneur 

Claudio Tipa decided to invest in the estate because it is 

ideal for producing high-quality Brunello and Rosso di 

Montalcino, in a different setting to the other companies 

he owns. Time is proving him right, especially at the last 

Benvenuto Brunello preview, where Tenuta San Giorgio 

labels were well represented. 

LA PALAZZETTA FANTI 

La Palazzetta was established in 1988 from a single hectare 

of Sangiovese meticulously tended by Flavio and Carla 

Fanti. Today, their children Luca and Tea are at the helm 

and the vineyard has been expanded to 20 hectares. It is 

located to the south-east of Montalcino, 365 m above sea 

level. The company’s production is centred on Brunello 

and Rosso di Montalcino, but Sant’Antimo Rosso DOC 

and extra virgin olive oil are also produced. The vines 

are planted on calcareous and stony soils and produce 

Tenuta San Giorgio, part of the ColleMassari group, is located 

near Castelnuovo dell’Abate in Montalcino, on the top of a ridge 

approximately 400m above sea level 


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The Fanti family: Flavio and Carla, and their children Luca and Tea 

The great Sergio Rossi, 

founder of 

La Gerla winery 

At a height of 320 metres, on Montalcino 

hill, where the slope becomes gentler, 

lie the vineyards of La Gerla 

fragrant richly-coloured wines with pleasant acidity and tannins. The 

vineyards are organically managed, and the approach is one of respect for 

the raw materials and the identity of the land. In the cellar, tradition and 

innovation accompany the hand-picked grapes through the natural process 

of winemaking. 

LA GERLA 

This estate was born from the foresight and passion of Sergio Rossi, who 

decided leave Milan where he worked in advertising and start a new life in 

Montalcino. Together with a group of friends, in 1974 Rossi bought the 

Colombaio-Santi farm from Brunello’s most famous family (Biondi Santi) 

and which already produced the grapes destined for the best wines from 

the Canalicchio area, north-east of Montalcino. The friends restored the 

farm and created functional, technologically advanced cellars. The estate 

can be divided into two macro-zones: Canalicchio, to the north-east, is 

more suited to producing fine, elegant wines (the historic Angeli vineyard, 


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planted by Franco Biondi-Santi with clone BBS11) and 

Castelnuovo dell’Abate, which produces more powerful, 

complex and long-lived wines (Vigna la Pieve will soon be 

a new Cru for the estate). 

Today Sergio Rossi is no longer with us, but his wife 

Donatella carries on the company and, with help from 

technical director Dr Passeri, continues to create exceptional 

wines which combine tradition and modernity. 

TENUTA POGGIO IL CASTELLARE 

Tenuta Poggio il Castellare represents the most ambitious 

stage of Bruna Baroncini’s Sangiovese journey in Tuscany. 

Heir to a noble family which has been dedicated to wine 

for centuries, Baroncini’s estate is located in Torrenieri, 

at an altitude of about 350 metres, in the north-eastern 

quadrant of the Montalcino area, which is benefiting from 

climate change. There are 7 hectares of vineyards, laid out 

in rows on organically farmed land where there is more 

clay than sand. The estate’s 40 hectares also include two 

hectares of truffle trees and a wood rich in medicinal herbs. 

The remainder is set aside as arable land and for growing 

ancient grains. In the centre is the manor house, with a 

luxury farmhouse annex. 

“In Brunello, the Sangiovese grape reaches peak ripeness. It 

is both thunderous and firm, wise and confident, with all 

the power of its best years still. And it has the potential for 

a very long life”, comments Bruna Baroncini 

Bruna Baroncini, owner of the Tenute Toscana 

wineries, including Poggio il Castellare 

SCUDERIA ITALY 

Scuderia Italia ‘Prestigious Italian Wines’ is a special 

location created by Flavio Sartori, a graduate in viticulture 

and oenology from the prestigious Conegliano campus 

of the University of Padua, and his father Loris, an 

experienced entrepreneur. The concept is to select 

producers of excellence in the most important Italian 

designations and to establish a close relationship in 

order to produce wines under a single brand, thereby 

creating true, limited-edition collections. Brunello is one 

such example. It is made by selecting wine from one of 

Montalcino’s historic and most traditional producers, 

which has vineyards located south of Montalcino, 

in Santa Restituta. The vineyards are situated about 

330 metres above sea level, on marly and tufa soils with 

a high concentration of minerals and fragmented rocks. 

Once the final blend is selected, a few hundred bottles of 

Flavio Sartori, founder of Scuderia Italia, and his father 


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The evocative barrique cellar at Villa al Cortile, owned by Piccini 

Mario Piccini (right), managing director of Tenute Piccini 

Brunello di Montalcino di Scuderia Italia are bottled, and 

set aside for the most demanding palates in the world. 

VILLA AL CORTILE - PICCINI 1882 

Situated on the southern side of Montalcino, with its 

12 ha of vineyards stretching from Montosoli to Lavacchio, 

Villa al Cortile is the jewel in the crown of the Piccini 

family’s estates. The vineyards in the northernmost area are 

north and north-east-facing and enjoy cooler temperatures, 

responding better to the seasonal trends in recent years 

and global warming. The mission here is to respect the 

relationship between the area and vines as much as possible, 

on the basis of the vintage, with simplicity and tradition. 

Hence, over-extraction and exaggerated concentration are 

outlawed in favour of harmony and balance. 

AMBRE WINES 

Ambre successfully exports Ambre still and sparkling 

wines all over the world. By completing the necessary 

formalities and constantly monitoring the various stages of 

supply, Ambre guarantees impeccable service to its partners. 

Brunello di Montalcino wines are an export staple in Ambre 

Wines’ portfolio. 


The Ceraudo family’s 60-hectare Contrada Dattilo vineyard is located in Calabria in the 

Strongoli Marina area near Crotone, on the ancient site of Petelia 

ITALY 

– ORGANIC WINES – 

SOUTHERN ITALY 

A paradise for organic 

viticulture 

Organic viticulture accounts for less than 10% of the world’s vineyard area, but it is 

clear that Italy is one of the countries that has been investing the most in converting 

its vineyards to organic. Italy is currently the world’s leading exporter of organic 

wine, despite coming second after Spain for its certified organic vineyard acreage. 

By Francesco Saverio Russo - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 


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Fontanareale vineyards in the Sannio Beneventano area, amidst ancient 

villages and lush green landscapes 

The country’s three macro-areas are very 

different. In the South, the soil and climate 

conditions make organic farming much 

easier, but companies tend to be larger, and 

profitability is not always sufficient. In the 

central regions, there is currently a significant expansion 

in organic production. Finally in the North, due to 

the colder and wetter climate and the consequential 

farming complications, it is not easy to approach 

organic farming. 

In the South of Italy, organic winegrowing is facilitated 

by the climate which, in tandem with producers’ 

planting choices, helps protect vines from the major 

diseases. While it is clear that the same soil and climate 

conditions do not apply to all of southern Italy, and 

that there are clear differences from one vineyard to 

another, in general the South has been the reference 

point for organic grape and wine production in Italy 

for many years now. In part, this has been a choice 

aimed at showcasing the potential of the land and the 

producers’ appreciation of environmental sustainability. 

At the same time, southern wineries are actively trying 

to increase the quality of their products in the hope of 

leveraging positive market response. 

Below are some of the most interesting farms and 

wineries in southern Italy that shared their organic 

experiences with us. 

Quintodecimo is the Campania-based company founded by Luigi Moio, an 

internationally renowned academic and oenologist, and his wife Laura in 2001. 

Environmental sustainability has always been a company priority 

QUINTODECIMO 

Quintodecimo is the Campania-based company 

founded by Luigi Moio, an internationally renowned 

academic and oenologist, and his wife Laura in 2001. 

Having agronomic knowledge to draw on has allowed 

Quintodecimo to identify and acquire vineyards which 

are naturally suited to quality, applying the principle 

of Low Input Agriculture. This concept takes into 

precise consideration the following variables: exposure, 

altitude, slope, wind incidence, rainfall, soil type and 

drainage capacity. These variables are specific to each 

native variety within a precise historical production 

area. 

Quintodecimo has always maintained an organic 

approach both in the vineyard and in the cellar, 


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however the certification process only started in 2018. 

From the 2021 harvest, all six wines produced will be 

certified organic. 

The choice of organic farming comes in response to 

the company’s key objective of bringing wine closer to 

nature by adopting a style of viticulture that respects the 

land, the environment and its people and demonstrates 

strong ethical and cultural values. 

The market is 70% domestic and 30% foreign. Foreign 

markets include a variety of Asian countries along with 

the USA, Canada, Great Britain, Denmark, Russia, 

Holland, Spain, Belgium, Switzerland, Germany, 

Australia and New Zealand. 

POLITO 

The company was founded in the 1960s when Vito 

Polito planted the first vineyards on the gentle hills 

of Agropoli, facing the sea. The grapes produced were 

initially sold, and only a small part was made into wine 

for family consumption. In 2000, Vito’s son Vincenzo, 

a plant pathologist specialised in viticulture, replanted 

part of the vineyards and the company began producing 

wine. In 2005, the first 5,000 bottles of Cilento Fiano 

D.O.C. and Cilento Aglianico D.O.C. were bottled. 

The company currently has about 10 hectares of 

vineyards in production, and new vineyards have been 

planted. The old family winery has been replaced by 

a large and functional structure with adequate space 

for both processing and ageing in oak barrels, where 

modern winemaking techniques are used to enhance 

the quality of the final product without detracting from 

tradition, allowing the company to reach a production 

level of about 50,000 bottles. 

The philosophy of Vincenzo and his son Carlo, who 

specialised in oenology and now runs the company, 

is to help more and more people develop a taste for 

good wine. While the company has always practiced 

responsible farming, in 2017, it began its journey 

towards organic certification by adopting different 

approaches to management of the vineyard and the 

farmland, and changing some working practices. 

Organic certification is due to be granted from the 2021 

harvest onwards. 

In 2017, Polito began the switch-over phase to organic certification and 

from 2021 all its wines will be certified organic 

Polito has 10 ha of bearing vineyards on the rolling hills of Agropoli in 

Cilento 


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The evocative underground barrel cellar at the Senatore winery where Cirò 

wines from Calabria are aged 

Current production is about 50,000 bottles per year and the 

company has been focused on ensuring production is stable 

and unaffected by the transition to organic certification. 

In addition to the domestic market, which accounts for 

about 80% of production, Polito exports to Switzerland, 

Germany, Poland, Lithuania and Finland. Once it receives 

its organic certification, the company plans to expand 

exports to countries such as Sweden, where organic wine is 

highly sought after. 

SENATORE 

‘Senatore Vini’ was founded in 2005 by the four Senatore 

brothers: Raffaele, Salvatore, Giuseppe and Franco, who 

started a company in the San Lorenzo district of Cirò Marina. 

The history of the Senatore family in the wine sector can 

however be traced back to the early 1900s, to grandparents 

Francesco Senatore and Giuseppe Sculco, and their wine cellar 

located in the Corfu Vecchiu area of Cirò. 

The new Senatore Vini winery, with a footprint of 4,500 square 

metres and a storage capacity of 6,000 hectolitres, is equipped 

with the most innovative winemaking systems and machinery 

available in the industry. Now the sons of the four brothers, 

the 3 Antonios, Emilio and Vito, embody the present and the 

future of Senatore Vini. 

The vineyard boasts 32 hectares of vines which are cultivated 

with respect for the land and the environment, while also 

drawing on the most up-to-date scientific advice and academic 


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Chef Caterina Dattilo ‘2021 Green Michelin Star’, in the family restaurant 

research. Production has been certified organic since 2017. 

Managing director Dr. Raffaele Senatore is a doctor by 

profession who is now dedicated full-time to the family 

business. Having previously focused on the health and 

wellbeing of his patients, he inevitably translated this passion 

into wine production and the company’s goal is to produce 

good, healthy wines sold under the ‘Unicorn’ brand, chosen 

to symbolise rarity, beauty and uniqueness. 

The wines are all small-scale labels, with around 

250,000 bottles divided across almost 20 wines. The grapes 

are all sourced in the family vineyards, epitomising the 

essence of a family business and artisanal production. 

Export markets are Italy, Europe and America, with Europe 

currently leading demand for certified organic wines. 

CERAUDO 

Sustainability has long been a focus of the Ceraudo company 

and now finds new meaning in its commitment to protecting 

the environment and the natural fertility of the soil. 

“We cultivate our land as if it were everyone’s land. Land is 

the most precious asset that mankind possesses, an asset to 

be preserved with extreme care, at all costs”, says Roberto 

Ceraudo. 

The vineyards and olive groves have been farmed without the 

use of chemicals for almost 31 years. From being pioneers 

in this field, the company is now running a pilot project at 

regional level: instead of using chemicals, a complex system 


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Tenuta Marino is located in the vast Pollino National Park 

in Basilicata 

of parasite prevention using mating disruption is being 

carried out, using meteorological huts and traps with 

pheromones. As a result, the plants develop ‘antibodies’ 

and become stronger every year. All stages of production 

are managed internally, creating a micro-system similar to 

that used on old farms. Ancient techniques do not however 

prevent the use of modern technology: the winery, oil mill, 

farmhouse and restaurant are powered entirely by a system 

of photovoltaic panels. 

The vineyard has been created without major land or 

remodelling works and has adopted the ancient method of 

field grafting, which preserves biodiversity through careful 

massal selection. Winter and spring grassing is utilised, 

sometimes involving specially selected plants for green 

manure. 

Yields are kept low through the use of low-productivity 

biotypes and cluster thinning. The foliage is managed by 

stripping leaves around the bunches of grapes and shoots 

are wound along the upper support wire rather than 

topped. Pruning is done solely by hand, using the ancient 

method of cutting the spur on the bud, thereby preventing 

the entry of viral diseases while ensuring the bud below 

sprouts quickly. 

The following anecdote offers some insight into the 

Ceraudo company’s focus on organic farming: “It was in 

the late 1980s when Roberto Ceraudo had an accident 

using pesticides; at that specific moment he promised 

himself he would never use them again and did a lot of 

research into new organic farming techniques”. 

The vineyard covers 20 hectares, with yields of between 

35 and 70 quintals per hectare, depending on the type 

of wine. In total, the potential production is around 

500 quintals per year, or 70,000 bottles. 

The main markets for Ceraudo wine are Italy and abroad, 

mainly Switzerland, Holland, the United States and Japan. 

The vineyards of Tenuta Marino are positively influenced by the 

Ionian and Tyrrhenian Seas, making the local microclimate unique 

TENUTA MARINO 

Tenuta Marino is located in the extremely extensive 

Pollino National Park in Basilicata. At about 500 metres 

above sea level, this unspoilt area expands across three 

municipalities (Noepoli, San Giorgio L. and Senise) and 

two provinces (Matera and Potenza), and straddles the 

Sinni and Sarmento rivers. 


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Sustainable farming honours traditions and preserves the 

region’s biodiversity 

In the early 90s, its owner decided to implement organic 

farming methods out of respect for nature and because 

of strong demand for organic products in the wine, fruit 

and vegetable sectors; the farm also produces organic 

fruit which is made into baby food. 

Francesco Marino has always been a great connoisseur 

of wine and his production is richly endowed in terms 

of varieties and wines, with an annual output of around 

100,000 bottles. His main market is domestic but 

he also exports to some European countries such as 

Germany, Switzerland and Belgium. 

FONTANAREALE 

The Fontanareale farm is located in Sannio Beneventano, 

a region characterised by ancient villages and green 

landscapes thanks to the vineyards and olive groves 

which have shaped the landform and the life of the local 

population. 

Monks introduced vine growing to the area, and 

the tradition has been perpetuated by successive 

landowners. They have experimented with vine varieties 

and winemaking techniques while striving to preserve 


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Ambrosio vineyards on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius 

soil fertility and biodiversity through the use of agronomic techniques 

based on current organic farming methods. The soil is clayey-calcareous, 

steep and stony and offers the best soil and weather conditions for this 

type of farming. 

The owners feel strongly about being custodians of the land and respecting 

wine and they have maintained this legacy by ensuring their land is free 

from chemical fertilisers, insecticides, herbicides and fungal disease 

products. As a result, Fontanareale was the first company in Campania 

to receive organic certification for its entire supply chain back in 1992. 

Fontanareale currently produces wine, oil and honey from organic farming 

and has about 20 hectares planted mainly to vineyards, olive groves and 

orchards, along with a small area of arable land and some horticulture as 

well as beekeeping. Its products are aimed at Italian and foreign consumers 

who are more health-conscious and care about sustainability. 

AMBROSIO VINEYARDS 

The Ambrosio family has been producing wine since the 19 th century, 

but it was only at the beginning of the 20 th century that it began 

to bottle its own brand. Notable obstacles to overcome were the 

bombings of the Second World War and the eruption of Mount 

Vesuvius, both of which forced production to stop. 

The 1990s saw another fundamental stage in the company’s 

evolution, which coincided with the desire to bring back grape 

varieties that had been absent from the region for centuries and 

whose only trace was in records kept by the monks. 

The Ambrosio family has always been committed to sustainability 


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Young Ferdinando Ambrosio and one of his viticulture assistants during the grape 

harvest. The fruit will be used for their great volcanic wines 

and is the first Vesuvian company to convert all its vineyards, 

almost all of which are in the Vesuvius National Park, to organic 

production, ensuring this cradle of biodiversity is preserved. The 

family also began working with the Faculty of Agriculture at the 

Federico II University in Naples to research and experiment with 

indigenous Vesuvian varieties. 

In 2014, the young Ferdinando Ambrosio inherited the family 

business and immediately expressed his desire to relaunch 

Lacryma Christi at a European and even global level. Today, the 

company produces natural wine which respects the biodiversity 

in the region, and the natural environment of the vines. The aim 

is to intervene as little as possible and only if truly necessary. 

The choice of preserving the old bush vines, in keeping with 

Vesuvian tradition, is fundamental, guaranteeing greater balance 

for the plant. Work is carried out entirely by hand at all stages and 

no synthetic fertilisers or systemic treatments are used. Harvesting 

is also done by hand and winemaking involves only wild yeasts. 

The aim is to express the pure identity of the Vesuvian area which 

is why healthy, ripe grapes are fermented in a natural way without 

using wood for maturation. 

Annual production is around 25,000 bottles and the wine is 

sold mainly in the USA, where the company has built up a 

reputation based on quality, rather than its organic certification, 

which is however highly prized by the family, regardless of its 

market impact. 


Some of Boschendal’s fruit is sourced from this vineyard in the cool-climate Elgin appellation 

SOUTH AFRICA 

– SPARKLING WINES – 

Perfected by time 

From modest beginnings half a century ago, Cap Classique is now 

the fastest-growing wine category in South Africa, exploding not only in terms 

of quantity but also in effervescent quality. 

By Joanne Gibson - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 


SOUTH AFRICA 


Cap Classique is the name for bottle-fermented sparkling wine produced in 

South Africa, where there are now 250 wineries producing over 10 million 

litres annually. Over four-fifths is consumed locally, with the domestic 

market doubling every five years, but exports are also increasing: up just 1% 

by volume in 2020 due to Covid-19 restrictions (including a temporary ban 

on alcohol shipments imposed by the SA government) but up 18% by value. 

All sorts of grape varieties are used for Cap Classique, from Sauvignon Blanc (such 

as the Bitou Vineyards Brut 2017 which scored 91 points in the Gilbert & Gaillard 

International Challenge) to Pinotage (for example, L’Avenir’s Brut Rosé 2018, 

which scored 88 points). However, most producers have embraced the traditional 

Champagne varieties of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and sometimes Pinot Meunier, 


SOUTH AFRICA 


The Malans are celebrating 50 years of Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel in 2021. From left, Francois-Jacques, Michael, Johan, Christelle and Francois Malan 

with terroir expressions ranging from the limestone-rich 

soils of Robertson to cooler mountainous and maritime 

appellations. There are blends, blanc de blancs and rosés, 

ranging stylistically from ‘brut nature’ (less than 3g/l 

residual sugar) to ‘demi sec’ (32-50g/l). A minimum of 

12 months’ lees contact prior to disgorgement is required 

by law, but there are many rich, complex wines that have 

been maturing in the bottle for 60 months and more… 

2021 marks 50 years of Cap Classique production in 

South Africa (SA). The idea started fizzing in the late 1960s 

when winemakers including Frans Malan of Simonsig in 

Stellenbosch and Nicky Krone of Twee Jonge Gezellen in 

Tulbagh visited Champagne. Krone imported yeasts and 

equipment from Épernay to embark on production in 1969, 

but his cellar was destroyed in an earthquake that year, 

suspending his plans. Malan, meanwhile, commissioned a 

local carpenter to build a rudimentary riddling rack and in 

1971 he made a bottle-fermented Brut from Chenin Blanc. 

He named it Kaapse Vonkel (Cape Sparkle) and released 


SOUTH AFRICA 


it in 1973 with a label stating ‘fermented in THIS bottle’. 

‘I’m exceptionally proud of how that small start of 

Kaapse Vonkel by my father has grown to such an 

extent,’ says Johan Malan, who took the winemaking 

reins at Simonsig in 1982, switched from Chenin to the 

traditional Champagne varieties in 1987, and has since 

expanded the Kaapse Vonkel range to include a Brut Rosé 

(with Pinotage and Pinot Noir as its base), two demi-sec 

wines (Satin Nectar and Satin Nectar Rosé), and Cuvée 

Royale, which is a prestige blanc de blancs produced only 

in exceptional vintages (the 2017 achieving a Gilbert & 

Gaillard rating of 94 points). 

In addition to Simonsig’s own fruit, grapes are sourced 

from cool-climate appellations such as Darling and 

Elgin, as well as the limestone-rich soils of Robertson. 

‘Every different source adds building blocks for the final 

cuvée and that’s where greater complexity is derived,’ 

says Malan. 

Currently he and his dedicated Cap Classique winemaker, 

Charl Schoeman, are exploring the possibilities offered by 

other varieties, such as Pinot Blanc with its high natural 

acidity, and the use of clay amphorae. ‘The focus must 

remain on the best grapes and classic pressing of whole 

bunches to make the finest, most delicate base wine,’ he 

insists. ‘The long, difficult road is still the best way!’ 

In 2020 Johan Malan of Simonsig was named Diners Club Winemaker 

of the Year for his Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2015 

OTHER TRAILBLAZERS 

The second producer to hit the market was Boschendal 

in Franschhoek with a Brut made by Achim von Arnim 

in 1981, shortly before he left to establish nearby Haute 

Cabrière with its Pierre Jourdan Cap Classique range 

(today one of SA’s most popular brands, in the safe 

hands of second-generation Takuan von Arnim, with 

the Pierre Jourdan Brut NV, Blanc de Blancs NV and 

Belle Rose NV all achieving gold medals from Gilbert & 

Gaillard). 

At Boschendal, it’s fascinating to note that the maiden 

Brut was made from Crouchen Blanc, Shiraz and Tinta 

Barocca! Pinot Noir replaced the reds in 1982, with 

Chardonnay introduced in 1985, and today Boschendal 

produces five Cap Classiques: a Brut NV (93 points), 

Brut Rosé NV (90), Demi Sec NV (not tasted), Grand 

Cuvée Brut (92 for the 2015 vintage, aged on the lees for 

48 months) and premium Blanc de Blancs named Jean 

le Long (93 for the 2009, on the lees for a full decade). 

At Haute Cabrière, cellarmaster Takuan von Arnim has 

stepped into the big shoes of his father, Achim von Arnim 


SOUTH AFRICA 


Boschendal’s Cap Classique winemaker, Danielle Coetsee, is aiming to 

achieve more and more refinement and delicacy in her wines 

‘In recent years, we have placed a focus on creating more refinement 

and delicacy while still delivering on fullness of flavour and autolytic 

character,’ says Boschendal winemaker Danielle Coetsee, stressing: 

‘Cap Classique will never be Champagne, just as Champagne will 

never be Cap Classique. There is a boldness and lushness in Cap 

Classique that you don’t easily find in sparkling wines from other 

countries. Today Cap Classique stands proudly on its own.’ 

‘Cap Classique does not pretend to replace Champagne; it 

reflects more sunlight in the bottle which, combined with greater 

affordability, will always put a smile on your face,’ says Jeff 

Grier of Villiera in Stellenbosch when asked how he persuades 

traditional Champagne drinkers to try Cap Classique. However, 

he acknowledges that meeting Champagne producer Jean-Louis 

Denois in 1983 was the catalyst in his decision to start making 

bottle-fermented sparkling wine in 1984, resulting in a decade-long 

partnership. ‘Apart from JLD passing on generations of Champagne 

know-how, I had the opportunity to work in Champagne for three 

vintages early in our development.’ 

Today, Cap Classique accounts for 40% of Villiera’s production, 

the range including Tradition Brut NV (90 points from Gilbert 


SOUTH AFRICA 


Jeff Grier takes a close look at his latest 

Villiera Tradition Rosé Brut NV (91 points) 

Joining a family in love 

with bottle-fermented 

bubbly, Villiera’s 

second-generation 

winemaker, 

Xander Grier 

You can taste the sun in 

South African Cap Classique, 

says Jeff Grier of Villiera 

& Gaillard), Tradition Rosé Brut NV (91 points), prestige cuvée 

Monro Brut (95 points for the 2014 vintage, which had 66 months 

of lees ageing), and the untasted zero-dosage Brut Natural and 

low-alcohol Starlight Brut (SA’s first ‘light’ Cap Classique). 

Grier is gradually passing the winemaker baton to secondgeneration 

Xander Grier, and together they continue to incorporate 

new ideas: ‘Creating a solera system for the barrel ageing of 

our dosage wine has made a significant difference,’ they say. 

‘Whichever Villiera wine you choose, you will taste the sun and 

the dedication of a family in love with bottle-fermented bubbly.’ 

FROM STRENGTH TO STRENGTH 

Following Tulbagh’s devastating earthquake in 1969, Nicky Krone 

slowly rebuilt Twee Jonge Gezellen (TJG), complete with SA’s first 

underground Cap Classique cellar (with vaulted ceilings designed 

to withstand earth tremors). The first Krone Borealis Brut 1987 

was released to great acclaim in 1991, and as a pioneer in sulphitefree 

sparkling wine, Krone was named Diners Club Winemaker 

of the Year in 1995. Today his son crafts Cap Classique under his 

own name, Matthew Krone Wines, but TJG and the Krone brand 


SOUTH AFRICA 


Krone winemaker Stephan de Beer likes making vintage-dated 

Cap Classiques, preferring to highlight rather than blend away 

vintage differences 

For Rudiger Gretschel, Krone’s vintage-dated bubblies are all 

about celebrating a moment in time and place 

were acquired in 2012 by the late Tim Rands, founder/ 

owner of independent wine specialist Vinimark. 

Krone has benefited from investment by Vinimark as well 

as the expertise of Vinimark’s production director, Rudiger 

Gretschel, who works with winemaker Stephan de Beer to 

craft vintage-dated Cap Classiques only. ‘These show the 

characteristics of the year without having to meet a house 

style, which blends away individualism,’ explains De Beer. 

‘Because we don’t have frost or hail or a super-wet growing 

season, our climate allows us to make vintage wines more 

easily than in Champagne,’ says Gretschel. ‘We really like 

to celebrate the small nuances that result from vintage 

differences.’ 

At Krone focus is also increasingly being placed on sitespecific 

wines, such as the Kaaimansgat Blanc de Blancs 

2016 from a famed vineyard in the Elandskloof, matured for 

32 months on the lees (93 points from Gilbert & Gaillard). 

‘We will be introducing two more single-vineyard Blanc de 

Blancs,’ reveals Gretschel. ‘One from TJG in Tulbagh and 

one from Koelfontein on the Ceres plateau.’ 

There’s plenty of ‘geek appeal’ at Krone, from the use of 

foudres and clay amphorae to the natural winemaking and 

terroir focus. However, Gretschel is equally excited about 

the ‘phenomenal’ success of Krone’s demi-sec wines, named 

Night Nectar and Night Nectar Rosé. ‘Krone was the first in 

the semi-sweet sector, which is really driving growth in the 

domestic market. Our Nectars have made Krone arguably 

the biggest Cap Classique brand, selling more than Graham 

Beck and Pongrácz.’ 

Owned by producer-wholesaler Distell, Pongrácz remains 

a hugely popular brand in SA, named in honour of 

Desiderius Pongrácz, a Hungarian nobleman and refugee 

who revolutionised viticulture in the Cape (his 1978 book, 

Practical Viticulture, is still used by students). Launched 

in 1990, Pongrácz Brut was made from 75% Pinot and 

25% Chardonnay, aged on the lees for two years, and 

the range has since expanded to include a Blanc de 

Blancs NV (90 points from Gilbert & Gaillard), Rosé NV 

(93 points), Noble Nectar NV (not tasted) and flagship 

vintage Desiderius (95 points for the 2013). 

In 2019, Andiswa Mapheleba took the Pongrácz winemaking 

reins from Elunda Basson, now at Steenberg Vineyards 

(which boasts three Cap Classiques of its own). Having 

fallen in love with ‘the beautiful merger of chemistry and 

creativity’ in bottle-fermented bubbly, Mapheleba says she 


SOUTH AFRICA 


Pongrácz winemaker Andiswa Mapheleba says she is humbled to follow in 

the footsteps of past winemaker Elunda Basson 

can’t see herself working with any other style of wine again. ‘The 

base wine is like an artist’s canvas, it requires such a delicate touch.’ 

Grapes for Pongrácz are widely sourced, mostly from cooler 

areas with a huge diversity of soil types. ‘This helps us achieve 

consistency but also complexity. We also have enough acidity in 

our wines without needing to take antacid when we drink them,’ 

she laughs. ‘Seriously, though, I do find our Cap Classiques so 

much more rounded than many of the Champagnes I have tasted.’ 

IN PURSUIT OF THE PERFECT BUBBLE 

If Mapheleba is just getting started, Graham Beck cellarmaster 

Pieter Ferreira is happy to report that his four-decade journey 

in pursuit of the perfect bubble is still continuing. He made his 

first Cap Classique at Haute Cabrière in 1984, spending seven 

years as Achim von Arnim’s apprentice (and working vintages in 

Champagne at Mumm in 1987, Georges Vesselle in 1988 and Moët 

& Chandon in 1989) before moving to Graham Beck’s dedicated, 

state-of-the-art Cap Classique cellars in Robertson in 1990. Today 

Graham Beck produces three non-vintage wines (including the Brut 


SOUTH AFRICA 


Graham Beck cellarmaster Pieter Ferreira (right) and winemaker Pierre de 

Klerk taste the results of some of their experimentations 

Le Lude’s owners are hoteliers and philanthropists Nic and 

Ferda Barrow. He is also a lawyer while her passions include 

gardening, cooking and interior design 

affectionately dubbed the ‘President’s Choice’ after being 

served both at Nelson Mandela’s inauguration in 1994 and 

Barack Obama’s presidential win in 2008), three vintage 

wines (a Blanc de Blancs, Brut Rosé and Brut Zero now 

named Ultra Brut, with the 2015 rated 93 points by Gilbert 

& Gaillard), and the prestige flagship Cuvée Clive, aged five 

years on the lees (94 points for the 2015). 

About 80% of the grapes come from Graham Beck’s 

own vineyards, benefiting from Robertson’s rich limestone 

deposits and huge diurnal temperature shifts, with the 

balance sourced from seven other geographical areas. ‘This 

assists us in pursuing consistency and continuity,’ says 

Ferreira, adding that research and development is ongoing: 

seeing how row direction affects flavours, for example, 

and bottle-fermenting some of the wine under cork rather 

than crown cap. There are also plans to plant ‘forgotten’ 

Champagne varietals such as Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier 

and Arbanne. 

The most successful results of all this experimentation will 

be offered under a new tier, called the Artisan Collection, 

giving Ferreira and his winemaker Pierre de Klerk carte 

blanche to produce spectacular niche wines that are never 

the same. ‘It is a way for us to passionately express our 

aspirational journey,’ says Ferreira, revealing that the first 

release from this collection is the Extended Lees Ageing 

2009, which matured for 11 years prior to disgorgement. 

However, when Graham Beck releases its Cap Classique 

matured under cork instead of crown cap, it won’t be 

the first. The artisanal Agrafe (Tirage Liège) method was 

introduced to South Africa by Le Lude in Franschhoek, 

established in 2011 by Nic and Ferda Barrow to specialise 

in premium Cap Classiques. Their maiden Agrafe Reserve 

2012 won a platinum award at the 2019 Decanter World 

Wine Awards, and now the 2013 has achieved a 95-point 

rating from Gilbert & Gaillard. ‘Awards such as these show 

that our pioneering approach is paying off and creating 

wines which are internationally renowned for finesse, 

elegance and refinement,’ say the Barrows. 

As chairman of the Cap Classique Producers Association, 

established in 1992 with the collective aim of crafting wines 

of superlative quality, capable of standing alongside the 

world’s best, Pieter Ferreira concludes: ‘The day you don’t 

want to drink Champagne, Cap Classique should be your 

go-to wine. At the current price-to-quality ratio, we are the 

better alternative.’ 


STARS 

– & WINE – 

Kyle MacLachlan: 

actor and producer… of wine! 

Over 30 years ago, the ‘Twin Peaks’ legend was born. Today, the mystery/horror/drama 

dreamt up by writer Mark Frost and director David Lynch remains as enthralling as ever! 

The unconventional beauty of Kyle MacLachlan, alias FBI agent Dale Cooper, and the 

haunting music composed by Angelo Badalamenti probably have a lot to do with it. 

Interview by Frank Rousseau, our correspondent in the United States 

Photographs: all rights reserved 

How have you seen TV change in recent years? 

When we launched ‘Twin Peaks’, the Internet and social 

media were not as popular as they are today. That didn’t 

stop the series from being a huge success. Not only did 

it influence actors and directors, but it also encouraged 

scriptwriters, producers, studio and TV station managers 

to be adventurous! 

Do you feel that David Lynch has made you grow 

artistically? 

Absolutely no doubt! The first time I met David, I was 

23 years old. I was a naive and inexperienced young man. 

However, I immediately felt that I was in the presence of 

one of the greatest geniuses of his time, an extraordinary 

artist. And ‘Twin Peaks’ was his masterpiece! The 

high point of his career! David was able to create a 

world of his own. He was able to transpose his world 

through films, a series and also photography. David’s 

world is not restrictive, it is expansive! It’s important 

to remember that when ‘Twin Peaks’ first aired, it was 

like something from another planet. No one before 

had revolutionised TV so much! No one before had 

produced a programme of this quality in this format! 

Changing the subject, what made you decide to go 

into wine production? 

I was dividing my time between New York and Los 


STARS 

– & WINE – 

Angeles and there came a point in my life when I thought 

it was time to settle down. I grew up in Washington State 

with a father who loved to go to vineyards. When you 

think of wine in the United States, you immediately 

think of California and Napa Valley. However, I can 

assure you that the wine from the Columbia, Yakima 

and Walla Walla valleys is really interesting. Washington 

State is the second largest wine producing state in the 

US. I have always enjoyed drinking wine, ever since I was 

at university. One day I felt I needed to get back to my 

roots. I took a few weeks off and went on a wine tour to 

Walla Walla and Lowden and some of the surrounding 

areas. It was, as they say, an epiphany moment. I decided 

to start making my own wine with a childhood friend. 

The wine has been called ‘Pursued by Bear’ since 2005. 

The name refers to Shakespeare’s “Exit, pursued by a 

bear”. I initially considered starting the business in 

California, but I soon realised that it was a bad idea. In 

Napa, the competition is very fierce! 

Are you very involved in the winemaking process? 

I am very involved because wine is not something you 

can do on the side or in between projects. It’s a real 

labour of love. I’m there for the harvest, the blending 

and the bottling. 

Is it true that you and David Lynch love to talk about 

wine when you get together? 

David is a true wine enthusiast like me. He drinks 

mostly red wine. He’s a real connoisseur. Just to share a 

little story, he was the one who gave me my first bottle 

of very good Bordeaux. I had just auditioned for the 

film ‘Dune’. It must have been 1983. He was desperate 

for me to discover Château Lynch-Bages, a famous wine 

estate in Pauillac, in Gironde. David has no connection 

whatsoever with the property, he just thought it was 

funny that a wine had part of his name. Anyway, he had 

just given me one of the greatest wines in Bordeaux! 

I can assure you that I savoured it right down to the very 

last drop! 


CONTACT 

– DETAILS – 

ROSES – PAGES 10 – 25 

LANGUEDOC 

• Saint-Chinian Co-operative Winery: 

http://vignerons-saintchinian.com 

• Chapelle de Novilis: 

Tel. +33 6 74 74 38 42 - 

www.chapelledenovilis.com 

• Château St-Jacques d’Albas: 

Tel. +33 4 68 78 24 82 - 

https://chateaustjacques.com 

LUBERON 

• Château de l’Isolette: 

Tel. +33 4 90 74 16 70 - 

https://chateau-isolette.fr 

• Château de Clapier: 

Tel. +33 4 90 77 01 03 - 

www.chateau-de-clapier.com 

PROVENCE 

• Château d’Ollières: 

Tel. +33 4 94 59 85 57 - 

http://chateau-ollieres.com 

• Château Gassier: 

Tel. +33 4 42 66 38 74 - 

www.chateau-gassier.fr 

• Château Saint Maur Cru Classé: 

Tel. +33 4 94 95 48 48 - 

www.chateausaintmaur.com 

CORSICA 

• Corsica: caroline@vinsdecorse.com - 

www.vinsdecorse.com 

BURGUNDY – PAGES 26 – 34 

• Domaine Guilleman: 

www.domaineguilleman.fr 

• Domaine Bruno Dangin: 

Tel. +33 6 88 87 19 79 - 

www.bruno-dangin.com 

• Bailly-Lapierre: Tel. +33 3 86 53 77 77 - 

http://bailly-lapierre.fr/ 

• Domaine Henri Champliau: 

Tel. + 33 7 63 84 58 98 - 

https://henri-champliau.com/ 

IMPORTER – PAGE 35 

• Amka Group: Tel. + 45 8641 9600 - 

https://amka-group.com/ 

BORDEAUX – PAGES 36 – 43 

• Château Toutigeac: 

Tel. +33 5 56 23 90 10 - 

www.toutigeac.com 

• Château Tour Bel Air: 

Tel. +33 6 31 83 06 90 - 

www.tourbelair.com 

• Domaine de Cartujac Vignobles Bruno 

Saintout: Tel. + 33 5 56 59 91 70 - 

www.vignobles-saintout.com 

• Château l’Argenteyre: 

Tel. + 33 5 56 41 52 34 

• Château de Cruzeau: 

Tel. + 33 5 56 64 75 87 - 

www.andrelurton.com 

• Château Guichot: 

Tel. + 33 5 56 61 31 53 - 

www.famillepetitvignobles.fr 

BEAUJOLAIS – PAGES 44 – 53 

• Cave des Grands Vins de Fleurie: 

Tel. +33 4 74 04 11 70 - 

www.cavefleurie.com 

• Domaine Ruet: Tel. +33 4 74 66 85 00 - 

www.ruet-beaujolais.fr 

• Domaine de la Bêche Olivier Depardon: 

Tel. +33 4 74 69 15 89 - 

www.domainedelabeche.com 

• Domaine des Perelles Laurent 

Perrachon & Fils: 

Tel. +33 4 74 04 40 44 - 

www.vinsperrachon.com 

• Domaine Rolland Ferraud: 

Tel. +33 4 74 06 47 60 - 

www.ferraud.com 

• Domaine Anthony Charvet: 

Tel. +33 6 50 07 25 01 - 

www.vins-anthony-charvet.fr 

• Château de Durette: 

Tel. +33 4 74 04 20 13 - 

www.chateaudedurette.eu 

• Château Grange Cochard: 

Tel. + 33 6 60 21 46 76 - 

www.lagrangecochard.com 

• Château de Poncié: 

Tel. +33 4 74 69 83 33 - 

www.chateaudeponcie.fr 

• Cave du Château de Chénas: 

Tel. +33 4 74 04 48 19 - 

www.cavedechenas.com 

CHATEAU LECUSSE – PAGES 54 – 55 

• Domaine Chateau Lecusse: 

Tel. +33 5 63 33 90 09 - 

www.chateaulecusse.com 

ALCOHOL-FREE – PAGES 56 – 62 

• Pierre Chavin: Tel. +33 4 67 90 12 60 - 

www.pierre-chavin.com 

• Iris Vigneti: Tel. +39 0438 488302 - 

http://irisvigneti.com 

• Darling Cellars: Tel. +27 224922276 - 

www.darlingcellars.co.za 

SPAIN / PORTUGAL – PAGES 63 – 70 

• Aveleda: Tel. +351 255 718 200 - 

https://www.aveleda.com/en 

• Rectoral do Umia: Tel. +34 988 384 200 

- https://rectoraldoumia.com/?lang=en 

• Pablo Padín: Tel. +34 986 743 231 - 

www.pablopadin.com 

• Adega Ponte da Barca: 

Tel. +351 258 480 220 - 

https://adegapontedabarca.pt 

• Soalheiro: Tel. +351 251 416 769 - 

www.soalheiro.com/en/ 

• Terras de Compostela: 

Tel. +34 637021070 - 

https://terrasdecompostela.com 

• Viña Cartín: Tel. +34 986 15 42 39 - 

www.terrasdelantano.com 

SPAIN – PAGES 71 – 76 

• Hammeken Cellars: 

Tel. + 34 965 791 967 - 

https://hammekencellars.com/ 

ITALY – BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO – 

PAGES 77 – 86 

• Consortium Brunello di Montalcino: 

Tel. +39 0577848246 - https://www. 

consorziobrunellodimontalcino.it 

• Banfi: Tel. +39 0577 840111 - 

www.banfi.it/en/ 


CONTACT 

– DETAILS – 

• Tenuta San Giorgio: 

Tel. +39 0422 743135 - 

https://tenutasangiorgio.com/ 

• La Palazzetta Fanti: 

Tel. +39 0577 85531 - 

https://www.palazzettafanti.com/ 

• La Gerla: Tel. +39 0577 848599 - 

www.lagerlamontalcino.com/en/ 

• Tenuta Poggio Il Castellare: 

https://poggioilcastellare.com 

• Scuderia Italy: Tel. +39 388 6219045 - 

https://www.scuderia-italia.it/en/ 

• Villa al Cortile: Tel. +39 0577 540 11 - 

https://www.piccini1882.it/en 

• Ambre Wines: Tel. +39 0461 609385 - 

www.ambrewines.com/ 

ITALY – ORGANIC WINES – 

PAGES 87 – 95 

• Quintodecimo: Tel. +39 0825 449321 - 

https://www.quintodecimo.it/en/ 

• Polito: Tel. +39 0974 198 7052 - 

www.politoviticoltori.com/en 

• Senatore: Tel. +39 0962 32350 - 

www.senatorevini.com/en/ 

• Ceraudo: tel. +39 0962 865 613 - 

http://www.dattilo.it 

• Tenuta Marino: Tel. +39 349 5059242 - 

https://tenutamarino.com/wine/ 

• Fontanareale: Tel. +39 0824 77 61 09 - 

www.fontanareale.com 

• Vigne Ambrosio: Tel. +39 3333525279 - 

www.vigneambrosio.com/ 

SOUTH AFRICA – PAGES 96 – 104 

• Cap Classique Producers’ Association: 

www.capclassique.co.za 

• Bitou Vineyards: Tel. +27 82 927 6179 - 

www.bitouvineyards.co.za 

• Boschendal: Tel. +27 21 870 4200 - 

www.boschendal.com 

• Graham Beck: Tel. +27 23 626 1214 - 

www.grahambeck.com 

• Haute Cabrière: Tel. +27 21 876 8500 - 

www.cabriere.co.za 

• L’Avenir: Tel. +27 21 889 5001 - 

www.lavenirestate.co.za 

• Krone: Tel. +27 23 230 0680 - 

www.kronecapclassique.co.za 

• Le Lude: Tel. +27 21 876 3099 - 

www.lelude.co.za 

• Matthew Krone Wines: 

Tel. +27 82 446 7900 - 

www.matthewkronewines.co.za 

• Pongrácz: Tel. +27 21 8865640 - 

www.pongracz.co.za - 

http://www.distell.co.za 

• Simonsig: Tel. +27 21 888 4900 - 

www.simonsig.co.za 

• Steenberg Vineyards: 

Tel. +27 21 713 2211 - 

www.steenbergfarm.com 

• Villiera: Tel. +27 21 865 2002 - 

www.villiera.com 

7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France 

Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88 

Editorial Directors: François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard 

Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard 

Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, 

François Bezuidenhout, Olivier Delorme, Matthieu Gaillard, Jamal Awni 

Rayyis, James Turnbull 

Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard 

Contributors to this issue: Ellen Budge, Jean-Paul Burias, Alain Echalier, 

Charlie Elaina, Joanne Gibson, Santiago Jiménez, Sylvain Patard, Frank Rousseau, 

Alexandra Réveillon, Francesco Saverio Russo, Christelle Zamora. 

Translation: Sharon Nagel, Rosa Almeida - CS Traduções, Marika Quarti 

Sales and Marketing Director: Etienne Gaillard : +33 6 30 97 87 26 

etienne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising France: 

Bordeaux - Charentes: 

Frédéric Comet: +33 6 27 58 47 06 - fcomet@gilbertgaillard.com 

Corsica - Languedoc - Provence - Rhône Valley: 

Nicolas Sanseigne: +33 6 46 86 80 01 - nsanseigne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Jura - Loire Valley - Savoy - South West - Roussillon: 

Caroline Gilbert: +33 6 84 92 57 61 - caroline@gilbertgaillard.com 

Alsace -Beaujolais - Burgundy - Champagne: 

Lucie Jeandel: +33 6 77 72 16 04 - ljeandel@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Italy: 

Sandra Sirvente: (+33) 7 63 87 13 13 - ssirvente@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Spain, Portugal: 

Thibault Leray: (+33) 6 84 01 57 24 - tleray@gilbertgaillard.com 

Production: Isabelle Méjean-Plé - Tapioka Conseil: +33 1 34 62 89 30 

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Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal 

representative and Editorial director: Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: second quarter 2021 • Legal publication n° pending • ISSN 2110-6762 

Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form is expressly prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articles are given 

for information only and have no publicity purpose. 


OUR SUMMER SELECTION 

Pages 

110 to 114 

TOP 

WINES 

— CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE AND SA CAP CLASSIQUE — 

The best Sparkling Wines in 2021 

Our Summer 2021 selection, tasted and rated by our tasting panel, is featured on pages 110 to 114. We 

have chosen to present wines by region (BURGUNDY, WESTERN CAPE...), then by appellation in each region, 

with each company or chateau listed in alphabetical order, and finally by tasting scores in descending order. 

THE TASTING PANEL 

FRANCE 

FRANCE 

FRANCE 

Philippe Gaillard 

Olivier Delorme 

James Turnbull 

François Gilbert 

SOUTH AFRICA 

SOUTH AFRICA 

Sylvain Patard 

Matthieu Gaillard 

François Bezuidenhout 

Wine scores 

Our tasting notes are scored on a 100 point scale, which gives enough range to evaluate every 

characteristic that we taste in a wine. Below are the different levels that make up this scoring: 

95-100/100: an outstanding wine, when a great “terroir” meets exceptional winemaking expertise. 

90-94/100: a superlative wine combining finesse, complexity and remarkable winemaking. 

85-89100: a wine of extremely high standard, which we enjoyed for its typicity and character. 

80-84/100: a quality wine combining balance, structure and neatness for a pleasurable wine drinking experience. 

75-79/100: a wine deemed acceptable. 

70-74/100: a wine with defects, unacceptable. 

65-69/100: a wine with major defects, inadmissible. 

50-64/100: unacceptable wine, not worthy for sale. 

Note: wines scoring less than 75/100 are not included in our publications. 

SUMMER 2021 - GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 109

FRANCE - Burgundy 

OUR SUMMER 

SELECTION 

France 

Burgundy 

Crémants de Bourgogne offer maximum 

pleasure for minimum money and make 

the perfect drink for all those fun holiday 

moments. 


CAVES BAILLY-LAPIERRE 88/100 

BIO D Brut Egarade 2018: Pale gold with silvery 

tints. Nose of white-fleshed fruits with pastry and yeast 

notes. The palate combines depth, generous aromatics, 

fat, fruit and persistent freshness. A nicely established 

Crémant for delicately flavoured fish. 

Price: € 12.50 

http://www.bailly-lapierre.fr 

Caves Bailly-Lapierre 

+33 3 86 42 88 70 

DOMAINE BRUNO DANGIN 88/100 

CR D Brut Le Grand Classique: Beautiful light 

yellow. Pleasant nose of stone fruits entwining cherry 

and white fruit notes. The palate shows abundant 

freshness and vinosity. This is a fleshy, well-established 

wine with precise, persistent aromas in a consummate 

style. 

Price: € 9 

http://www.bruno-dangin.com 

Domaine Bruno Dangin 

+33 6 88 87 19 79 

GUILLEMAN 88/100 

D Brut Tradition: Light gold with minute bubbles. 

A lovely fusion of stone fruits and floral notes on the 

nose. Harmoniously crafted, rich, deliciously soft and 

perfumed palate with well-integrated effervescence. 

Touches of brioche and citrus fruits along with finesse. 

Price: € 8.30 

http://www.domaineguilleman.fr 

Domaine Guilleman 

+33 3 80 81 40 03 

HENRI CHAMPLIAU 88/100 

CR D Brut Authentique: Brilliant straw-yellow. A mix 

of cherries and raspberries on the nose with pastry 

and wild flower notes. Ample palate displaying very 

pleasant saline freshness. Intense red fruit sensation in 

this good, food-friendly Crémant. 

Price: € 13 

https://www.henri-champliau.com/index.php/fr/ 

Henri Champliau 

+33 7 63 84 58 98 

DOMAINE BRUNO DANGIN 87/100 

BIO D Brut Prestige de Narcès 2017: Beautiful 

clear, light yellow. Extremely enticing nose of white 

fruits recalling ripe apple and pear. The palate is very 

fruity with a pleasant mineral tone. This is an energetic, 

lifted wine with lovely length. 

Price: € 15 

http://www.bruno-dangin.com 

Grapes used for Crémant de Bourgogne need to be uncrushed before they go into the press 

Domaine Bruno Dangin 

+33 6 88 87 19 79 

GUILLEMAN 87/100 

D Brut Elégance: Brilliant golden hue. Charming 

nose driven by white-fleshed fruits with a floral touch. 

Lively attack, ethereal palate displaying welcome 

crunchy, striking aromatic intensity that is fairly vinous. 

Long-lasting finish. A great Crémant for gougères. 

Price: € 9.30 

http://www.domaineguilleman.fr 

Domaine Guilleman 

+33 3 80 81 40 03 

HENRI CHAMPLIAU 87/100 

CR D Brut rosé: Pale salmon-pink. Charming nose 

offering up rose, dried flowers, citrus and red berry fruit 

notes. Very supple palate with delicate effervescence. 

The fruit is very pure and crisp in this charming Crémant 

for a romantic aperitif. 

Price: € 13 

https://www.henri-champliau.com/index.php/fr/ 

Henri Champliau 

+33 7 63 84 58 98 

CAVES BAILLY-LAPIERRE 86/100 

D Brut Pinot Noir: Pale gold with silvery green tints. 

A mix of fresh grape, plum and mirabelle plum on the 

nose with a dash of red fruits. Fresh, vinous palate 

with a fruity edge that clearly steers towards red fruit. 

A complex Brut with an invigorating finish for a tapas 

evening. 

Price: € 8.90 

http://www.bailly-lapierre.fr 

Caves Bailly-Lapierre 

+33 3 86 42 88 70 

For a detailed explanation of scores and wine 

colours and the meaning 

of symbols and abbreviations, refer 

to the instructions at the start 

of the magazine. 

OUR SUMMER 

SELECTION 

South Africa 

Cap Classique 

Cap Classique, the country’s star 

sparkling wine, is celebrating its 50th 

anniversary, giving us a great opportunity 

to share the results of our recent tastings 

with you. 

WESTERN CAPE 

CEDERBERG 

CEDERBERG WINES 84/100 

D Methode Cap Classique Brut 2016: 

Price: € 13 

https://www.cederbergwine.com 

Cederberg Wines Cellar 

+27 27 482 2827 

WESTERN CAPE 

LE LUDE 95/100 

D Reserve Agrafe 2013: Light yellow. Biscotti and 

sour dough nose with hints of green apple. Clean fruit 

notes and lemon-lime on the crisp palate. Full, rich and 

complex palate. This wine is still in it’s youth after 8 

years from harvest and will go for at least another 15. 

Price: € 93.15 

http://www.lelude.co.za 

Le Lude Winery 

+27 21 100 3464 

110 

SUMMER 2021– GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

SOUTH AFRICA - Cap Classique 

L’ORMARINS 94/100 

D Blanc de Blancs 2013: Very light yellow. 

Butterscotch nose citrus. Crisp and refreshing on the 

palate with lime drops and a green apple finish. 

Elegant and refined. A great example. Drink through 

2030. 

Price: € 12 

http://www.rupertwines.com 

Anthonij Rupert Wyne 

+27 21 874 9026 

SILVERTHORN WINES 94/100 

D Jewel Box 2017: Yellow straw. Nutty and 

sourdough nose with hints of secondary fruit. Crisp and 

full on the rich palate with layers of stone fruit and lime. 

Fine mousse and lengthy on the tangy finish. Excellent. 

Price: € 17 

https://www.silverthornwines.co.za 

Silverthorn Wines 

+27 21 788 1706 

BOSCHENDAL WINES 93/100 

D Brut NV: Bright yellow straw. Biscotti, brioche 

nose with hints of lemon and lime. Rich and refined 

on the palate with some granny smith apple and lime 

following from the nose. Fine mousse and a lengthy, 

tangy finsih. Delicious. 

Price: € 10.18 

https://www.boschendal.com 

Boschendal Wine Estate 

+27 21 870 4200 


D Jean Le Long 2009: Light yellow straw. Subdued 

nose with hints of yellow stone fruit and quince. Palate 

is rich and full with a well-integrated acidity. Secondary 

fruit notes of peach and apricot. Fine mousse and a 

well-integrated acidity. Clean and crisp on the finish. 

Price: € 47.68 



+27 21 870 4200 

KLEINE ZALZE VINTAGE BRUT MCC 93/100 

D 2015: Light yellow straw. Biscotti and sourdough 

nose with fresh lemon peel. Nutty and full on the palate 

with a well-integrated acidity and a pithy mid-palate. 

Rich and creamy with a lengthy finish. Complex and 

rich. Excellent. 

Price: € 13.91 

http://www.kleinezalze.co.za 

Kleine Zalze 

+27 21 880 0717 

KRONE 93/100 

D Kaaimansgat Blanc de Blancs 2016: Yellow 

straw. Sour dough, biscotti and a hint of smoky toast. 

Palate is fresh, lively with a fresh apple and white pear 

note. Lively and youthful with a slight nutty note on the 

finish. Complex and rich with a lingering acidity on the 

aftertaste. Great ! 

Price: € 31.40 

https://www.kronecapclassique.co.za 

Krone 

+27 23 230 0680 


D Reserve Brut Rosé: Light salmon to onion-skin. 

Floral, red berry fruit and fresh fruit salad nose. Crisp 

and fresh on the palate with a racy acidity and green 

apple finish. Clean, fruit-forward and zesty. This wine 

is fantastic now, but will age for many years to come. 

Price: € 18.63 



+27 21 100 3464 

ANURA 91/100 

D MCC Brut Vintage 2014: Yellow gold. Sourdough 

and biscotti nose with hints of nuttyness. Palate is full 

and rich with sourdough following from the nose. Lime 

on the well-integrated finish with a fine mousse. Drink 

now. 

Price: € 10 

https://www.anura.co.za 

Anura Vineyards 

+27 21 875 5360 


D Brut Rosé NV: Light salmon to onion-skin. Red 

apple and fruit salad nose. Fine mousse and fresh fruit 

notes on the palate with a zesty finish. Refined and 

elegant with a pithyness on the aftertaste. A well made 

wine that will age for many years. 

Price: € 10.47 



+27 21 870 4200 

GENEVIEVE METHODE CAP CLASSIQUE 90/100 

D Blanc de Blancs 2016: Bright yellow. Subdued 

nose with hints of sourdough and biscotti. Foamy 

mousse with distinct lime on the finsh and a wellintegrated 

tangy acidity. Drink now through 2026. 

Price: € 12 

https://www.genevievemcc.co.za 

Genevieve Methode Cap Classique 

+27 83 302 6562 


D Venus Brut Nature Millesime 2014: Golden straw. 

Full and rich nose with hints of smoky toast and subdued 

fresh apple. Racy acidity and lemon-lime palate with 

a very fizzy bubble on the finish. This wine will age 

forever. Good now, but needs time in the bottle. 

Price: € 39.59 



+27 21 100 3464 

BOREALIS VINTAGE CUVEE BRUT 89/100 

D 2019 

Price: € 7 


Krone 

+27 23 230 0680 

PERDEBERG VINEYARD COLLECTION 89/100 

D Pinot Noir Rosé 2019 

Price: € 7 

http://www.perdeberg.co.za 

Perdeberg Wines (Pty) Ltd 

+27 21 869 8244 

TEUBES FAMILY WINES 89/100 

D Karoobossie 2020 

Price: € 7 

http://www.teubeswines.co.za 

Teubes Family Wines 

+27 27 213 2377 

PIERRE JOURDAN 88/100 

D Blanc de Blancs Cap Classique 2016 

Price: € 13 

https://www.cabriere.co.za 

Haute Cabriére 

+27 21 876 2630 

STEENBERG VINEYARDS 88/100 

D 1682 Chardonnay Cap Classique: 

https://www.steenbergfarm.com 

Steenberg Vineyards 

27 217 132 211 

BOLAND CELLAR 87/100 

D MCC Brut Chenin Blanc 2017 

Price: € 10 

http://www.bolandcellar.co.za 

Boland Cellar 

27 823 232 747 

KAAPSE VONKEL 87/100 

D Brut Rosé 2019 

Price: € 8 

http://www.simonsig.co.za 

Simonsig Estate Wine 

+27 21 888 4900 

KLEINE ZALZE BRUT MCC 87/100 

D 

Price: € 8.36 


Kleine Zalze 

+27 21 880 0717 


D Brut Cap Classique 

Price: € 7 



+27 21 876 2630 


D Belle Rose Cap Classique 

Price: € 7 



+27 21 876 2630 

KAAPSE VONKEL 86/100 

D Brut 2019 

Price: € 8 



+27 21 888 4900 

KRONE 86/100 

D Borealis Vintage Cuvee Brut 2018 

Price: € 10.06 


Krone 

+27 23 230 0680 


D Belle Nectar Cap Classique 

Price: € 7 



+27 21 876 2630 

TANZANITE WINES 86/100 

D Brut 

Price: € 8 

http://www.tanzanitewines.co.za 

Tanzanite Wines 

+27 82 555 8105 

ALAIN CAJEUX 85/100 

D Brut Chardonnay 2018 

Price: € 8 

http://www.dutoitskloof.co.za 

Cape Vinea 

+27 23 349 1601 

SUMMER 2021 – GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 111


PUBS_CUVEES_G&G_N°44_Mise en page 1 22/06/2021 11:42 Page 1 

KLEINE ZALZE BRUT ROSÉ MCC 83/100 

D 

Price: € 8.35 


Kleine Zalze 

+27 21 880 0717 

PONGRÁCZ BRUT 87/100 

D 

Price: € 6.76 


Distell 

+27 21 886 5640 

ROBERTSON 

GRAHAM BECK 94/100 

D Cuvee Clive 2015: Golden straw. Fruit salad 

and biscotti nose with hints of apple core. Palate is 

rich and full with lots of secondary notes of sour dough 

and biscotti. Lengthy and rich on the palate. A full and 

creamy wine that will age for many years. 

Price: € 35 

https://www.grahambeck.com/contact 

Graham Beck 

27 236 261 214 

GRAHAM BECK 93/100 

D Ultra Brut 2015: Golden straw. Fresh granny 

smith apple and lime on the nose. Rich on the palate 

without too much nuttyness and biscotti. Crisp lemon 

and lime finish with a lingering acidity. Drink now or 

keep for many years to come. Fantastic. 

Price: € 15 

https://www.grahambeck.com/contact 

Graham Beck 

27 236 261 214 

STELLENBOSCH 

PONGRÁCZ DESIDERIUS 95/100 

D 2013: Light yellow straw. Nutty, toasty and 

sourdough nose. Palate is full and complex with a very 

fine mousse. Elegant and rich. More secondary fruit 

notes than fresh. Crisp, but well-integrated acidity on 

the finish. At it’s optimum now. Excellent wine. 

Price: € 20.61 


Distell 

+27 21 886 5640 

PONGRÁCZ DESIDERIUS ROSÉ 93/100 

D: Light salmon pink. Subdued nose with hints of 

fresh red apple. Full and complex palate with apple 

core and a pithy stone fruit finish. Red berries and sour 

cherry on the aftertaste. Complex and layered. Drink 

now through 2025. 

Price: € 6.76 


Distell 

+27 21 886 5640 

PONGRÁCZ DESIDERIUS BLANC DE BLANCS 90/100 

D: Light yellow straw. Biscotti, brioche and fresh 

apple nose. Crisp and fruit-forward palate with a a 

clean yellow apple finish. Well-integrated acidity and 

fine mousse. Mineral and elegant. Drink now through 

2025. 

Price: € 6.77 


Distell 

+27 21 886 5640 

WESTERN CAPE - 

BREEDE RIVER VALLEY 

BREEDEKLOOF 

DEETLEFS 90/100 

D Methode Cap Classique 2018: Light yellow. 

Subdued nose with hints of fresh lime. Palate is crisp 

and refreshing with fruit salad and quince on the finish. 

Complex and rich with a lengthy finish. Drink thorugh 

2018. 

Price: € 12 

http://www.deetlefs.com 

Deetlefs Wine Estate 

+27 23 349 1260 

PAUL RENÉ 91/100 

D Chardonnay Brut 2017: Light yellow. Biscotti 

and sourdough nose with hints of lime. Crisp and fresh 

on the full palate with a refined mousse. Tangy and 

refreshing on the finish. Drink now through 2030. 

Price: € 10 

https://www.paulrenemcc.co.za 

Paul René 

+27 23 626 2212 

SILVERTHORN WINES 90/100 

D The Green Man 2018: Very light yellow. 

Sourdough and nutty nose with hints of fresh fruit salad. 

Rich and creamy on the palate with a fine mousse and 

lengthy pithy finish. Apple core and lime drops on the 

aftertaste. Drink though 2026. 

Price: € 13 

https://www.silverthornwines.co.za 

Silverthorn Wines 

+27 21 788 1706 

PAUL RENÉ 89/100 

D Pinot Noir Chardonnay Brut Rosé 2018: 

Price: € 10 

https://www.paulrenemcc.co.za 

Paul René 

+27 23 626 2212 

VAN LOVEREN 88/100 

D Christina MCC Brut: 

Price: € 6 

http://www.vanloveren.co.za 

Van Loveren 

+27 23 6151505 


CAPE SOUTH COAST 

ELGIN 

TOKARA 93/100 

see details on next column 

TOKARA 

93/100 

■ Cap Classique Blanc de Blancs 2013 

D Very light yellow. Complex nose with secondary 

fruit and a slight hint of sourdough. Floral and crisp 

on the tangy palate with a fine mousse and well-integrated 

acidity. Lenghty and pithy on the finish. Drink 

through 2030. Price: € 59.95 

PRESENTATION : An exceptional occasion deserves an 

exceptional wine and prestigious family-owned 

Stellenbosch estate Tokara is celebrating the 50 th 

anniversary of Cap Classique with an ultra-stylish new 

2013 vintage. The consummate Blanc de Blancs was 

crafted entirely from Tokara’s outstanding cool climate 

Chardonnay vineyard in Elgin. Its extraordinary depth 

of flavour, elegance and complexity stem from barrel 

maturation of the base wine for eight months, then seven 

years on the lees in the bottle to develop richness and 

finesse. An incredibly fine, consistent mousse lifted by 

aromas of lightly toasted almonds, lemon preserve and 

a trace of fresh green apple with freshly baked gougère 

on the palate set it apart. As does its distinctive bottle, 

lending gravitas and sophistication, and its exquisite gift 

packaging that completes the narrative. 

Tel.: +27 21 808 5913 

E-mail: suzanne@tokara.com 

Website: http://www.tokara.com 

112 




D Grande Cuvée Brut 2015: Very light yellow. 

Fresh fruit salad nose with hints of sourdough. Palate 

is light and crisp with a pithy apple-core mid-palate. 

Lengthy on the finish with a fine mousse. Great now, 

but will age for many more years. 

Price: € 16.86 



+27 21 870 4200 

CHARLES FOX CIPHER 90/100 

1 2015: Light golden straw. Nutty nose with hints 

of stewed fruit. Complex and rich palate with hints of 

lemon-lime and a crisp green apple finish. Fine mousse 

with a tangy finish. Drink through 2026. 

Price: € 30.67 

https://www.charlesfox.co.za 

Charles Fox 

+27 82 569 2965 

CHARLES FOX VINTAGE ROSÉ 88/100 

1 2015 

Price: € 16.95 

https://www.charlesfox.co.za 

Charles Fox 

+27 82 569 2965 

SPIER WINES 84/100 

D Cap Classique Brut Rosé 2019 

Price: € 8.81 

http://www.spier.co.za 

Spier Wines 

+27 21 881 8400 

PLETTENBERG BAY 

METHODE CAP CLASSIQUE 94/100 

D Blanc de Blanc 2015: Golden straw. Nutty, rich 

and vibrant nose with hints of lemon drops. Crisp and 

refreshing on the palate with green apple and lime. 

Fine mousse and lengthy on the finish. Refined and 

finessed. Excellent. 

Price: € 13.60 

http://www.newsteadwines.com 

Newstead Lund Family Vineyards 

+27 76 300 9740 

BITOU VINEYARDS 91/100 

D Méthod Cap Classique Sauvignon Blanc 2017: 

Attractive first impression. Green apple, pretty lees 

notes from yeast. Unexpected well integrated acidity, 

good mousse and palate weight with long finish. 

Price: € 4.59 

https://www.bitouvineyards.co.za 

Bitou Vineyards 

+27 82 927 6179 

KAY & MONTY MCC CHAMPU 89/100 

D Chardonnay 2016 

Price: € 12.66 

http://www.kayandmonty.com 

Kay & Monty Vineyards 

+27 79 965 9779 

For a detailed explanation of scores and wine 

colours and the meaning 

of symbols and abbreviations, refer 

to the instructions at the start 

of the magazine. 


COASTAL REGION 

CAPE TOWN 

DE GRENDEL WINE ESTATE 92/100 

D Brut 2017: Light yellow straw. Subdued nose 

with hints of butterscotch. Creamy on the palate with a 

lemon-lime finish and a fine and elegant mousse. Tangy 

and tart on the finish. Great now, but will do well with 

some age. 

Price: € 11 

https://www.degrendel.co.za 

De Grendel Wine Estate 

+27 21 558 6280 

DE GRENDEL WINE ESTATE 90/100 

D Brut Rosé 2016: Light salmon. Red berry nose 

with pink apple. Sour cherry and red apple on the tart 

palate. Crisp and refreshing with a fine mousse. Lengty 

on the finish. Drink through 2026. 

Price: € 14 

https://www.degrendel.co.za 

De Grendel Wine Estate 

+27 21 558 6280 

CAPE TOWN - CONSTANTIA 

KLEIN CONSTANTIA 91/100 

D Brut 2017: Very light yellow. Lime and lemon on 

the nose with hints of fresh fruit-salad. Tangy on the 

palate with lemon-lie following from the nose. Crisp 

acidity and fresh fruit-note on the aftertaste. Refreshing 

and crisp. Drink through 2026. 

Price: € 13 

http://www.KleinConstantia.com 

Klein Constantia 

+27 21 794 5188 

GROOT CONSTANTIA 86/100 

D Brut Rosé 2018: 

Price: € 10 

https://www.grootconstantia.co.za 

Groot Constantia 

+27 21 794 5128 

COASTAL REGION 


D R.D Cap Classique Brut 2013: Light yellow straw. 

Biscotti and rich nose with stewed fruit notes. Elegant 

and rich on the palate. Red apple and apple core with 

a lemon-lime finish. Crisp and complex, but with a fresh 

and crisp finish. At it’s prime now. 

Price: € 23.21 


Spier Wines 

+27 21 881 8400 

DARLING 

DARLING CELLARS 92/100 

D Blanc de Blancs Brut 2018: Yellow gold. 

Sourdough and nutty nose with hints of citrus. Full and 

creamy palate with a fine mousse and a distinct lime 

note on the finish. Crisp and refreshing, but layered. 

Drink through 2028. 

Price: € 6 

http://www.darlingcellars.co.za 

Darling Cellars 

+27 74 683 4454 

FRANSCHHOEK VALLEY 

LA BRI WINES 94/100 

D Sauvage 2013: Yellow straw. Biscotti and 

sourdough nose with a slight nuttyness. Buttery and full 

on the palate with a very fine mousse. At it’s optimum 

now, but still showing lively youth and refreshing lemonlime 

on the aftertaste. Excellent. 

Price: € 15 

https://www.labri.co.za 

La Bri Wines 

+27 21 876 2593 

RICKETY BRIDGE 91/100 

D Brut Rosé: Light onion-skin. Complex nose with 

hints of red apple and rhubarb. Full and complex on 

the palate with a rich mid-palate and red fruit notes. 

Lengthy and elegant with a fine mousse. Drink through 

2025. 

Price: € 11.46 

http://www.ricketybridgewinery.com 

Rickety Bridge Winery 

+27 21 8762 129 

RICKETY BRIDGE 89/100 


Price: € 15.87 

http://www.ricketybridgewinery.com 

Rickety Bridge Winery 

+27 21 8762 129 

LA MOTTE 88/100 

D Méthode Cap Classique Brut 2017: 

Price: € 18 

http://www.la-motte.com 

La Motte 

+27 21 876 8000 

DIEU DONNÉ VINEYARDS 84/100 

D MCC Brut Rosé 2018 

Price: € 10 

https://www.dieudonnevineyards.com 

Dieu Donné Vineyards 

27 212 240 667 

PAARL 

PERDEBERG VINEYARD COLLECTION 88/100 

D Chenin Blanc 2019 

Price: € 7 

http://www.perdeberg.co.za 

Perdeberg Wines (Pty) Ltd 

+27 21 869 8244 

PAARL - SIMONSBERG 

BABYLONSTOREN 93/100 

D Sprankel 2015: Very light yellow. Subdued nose 

with fresh green apple and lime on the nose. Integrated 

acidity and crisp fresh fruit on the palate with a lemonlime 

note on the finish. Fine mousse. This wine will age 

for many years, but great now! 

Price: € 30 

http://www.babylonstoren.com 

Babylonstoren (Pty) Ltd 

27 218 633 852 

SUMMER 2021 – GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 113


STELLENBOSCH 

VILLIERA 95/100 

D Monro Brut 2014: Golden straw. Rich and 

complex nose with fresh fruit salad and brioche. Palate 

is clean and fruit-forward with a nutty note on the 

aftertaste. Layered and complex with lemon and lime 

tangy acidity. Beautiful. 

Price: € 16.64 

http://www.villiera.com 

Villiera Wines 

+27 21 865 2002 

SIMONSIG 94/100 

D Cuvée Royale 2017: Light yellow straw. Yellow 

stone fruit nose with hints of sourdough. Pineapple and 

litchi on the crisp palate with a tangy grenadilla note 

on the finish. Fine mousse and lengthy. Great now, but 

will age for many more years to come. 

Price: € 20 



+27 21 888 4900 

LOURENSFORD 93/100 

D Cap Classique 2016: Very light yellow. Fruitsalad 

nose with hints of ripe pear and apricot. Crisp 

on the palate with a tangy lemon-lime note and a pithy 

finish. Youthful and fresh, but showing some depth from 

age. Complex and delicious. Drink through 2030. 

Price: € 13 

https://www.lourensford.co.za 

Lourensford 

27 218 472 333 

SIMONSIG 92/100 

D Cuvée Royale 2012: Golden straw. Developed 

nose with nutty notes and sourdough. Very fine mousse 

on entry with a developed nuttyness and savoury finish. 

Elegant and refined. Drink now. 

Price: € 20 



+27 21 888 4900 

VERGELEGEN 92/100 

D Vergelegen Brut MMV 2015: Very light yellow. 

Subdued nose of secondary fruit notes. Pear, apple and 

quince on the palate with a fine mousse. Finish reminds 

of apple cider. Youthful and refreshing, yet complex 

and layered. Drink now through 2030. 

Price: € 20.93 

https://www.vergelegen.co.za 

Vergelegen 

+27 21 847 2100 

EIKENDAL 91/100 

D Methode Cap Classique Brut 2018: Attractive 

light yellow with green tint. Fresh green and yellow 

apple with underlying baked apple crumble. Yeast and 

freshly baked bread offers the mid palet support and 

length. Drink in the next 10yrs. 

Price: € 

http://www.eikendal.com 

Eikendal Vineyards 

+27 21 855 1422 


D Tradition Brut Rosé: Light onion-skin. Fresh red fruit 

nose with some hints of apple and quince. Tart on the 

palate with a fine bubble and a distinct red berry note. 

Full and rich with a well-integrated acidity. Lively and 

lingering. Drink now through 2030. 

This winery located in the Western Cape could easily be mistaken for a Champagne winery 

Price: € 8.65 



+27 21 865 2002 


D Cap Classique Brut 2018: Light yellow straw. 

Fresh fruit salad nose with hints of stone fruit. Crisp and 

refreshing palate with a foamy bubble. Racy acidity 

with a lemon-lime note on the finish. Classic. 

Price: € 8.81 


Spier Wines 

+27 21 881 8400 


D Tradition Brut: Yellow straw. Nutty, sourdough 

and brioche nose with hints of dried apple. Palate is 

full, rich and complex with a delicate bubble and an 

apple core, pithy finish. Rich and layered. Drink now 

through 2030. 

Price: € 8.64 



+27 21 865 2002 

BLAAUWKLIPPEN 89/100 

D Brut MCC 2019 

Price: € 9 

http://www.blaauwklippen.com 

Blaauwklippen 

+27 21 880 0133 

L’AVENIR 88/100 

D Pinotage Brut Rosé 2018 

Price: € 12 

http://www.lavenirestate.co.za 

L’Avenir Estate 

+27 21 889 5001 

ANNA CHRISTINA 87/100 


Price: € 10.25 

http://www.stellenbosch-hills.co.za 

Stellenbosch Hills Wines 

+27 21 881 3828 

CAVALLI 87/100 

D Capriole 2019 

Price: € 12 

http://www.cavallistud.com 

Cavalli Estate 

27 218 553 218 

DEMORGENZON 87/100 

D Chenin Blanc 2017 

Price: € 11 

https://www.demorgenzon.com 

DeMorgenzon 

+27 21 881 3030 

STELLENBOSCH - BOTTELARY 

HAZENDAL 90/100 

D MCC 23.5 Blanc de Blanc 2018: Light yellow. 

Fresh apple and fruit salad nose with hints of lime. 

Crisp and refreshing palate with a fine mousse and 

lime drops following from the palate. A youthful and 

lively wine. Great! 

http://www.hazendal.co.za 

Hazendal 

+27 21 903 5034 

HAZENDAL 88/100 

D MCC 23.5 Blanc de Noir 2018 

http://www.hazendal.co.za 

Hazendal 

+27 21 903 5034 

STELLENBOSCH - JONKERSHOEK 

VALLEY 

LANZERAC 91/100 

D Blanc de Blancs Brut: Bright yellow. Lemon-lime 

notes with sourdough on the nose. Clean and refreshing 

entry with green apple and quince. Fine mousse with 

an integrated acidity. At it’s prime now. Delicious. 

Price: € 14 

http://www.lanzerac.co.za 

Lanzerac Wine Estate 

+27 21 887 1132 

WELLINGTON 

BOSMAN FAMILY VINEYARDS 83/100 

D Loose Canon MCC 2017 

Price: € 10 

http://www.bosmanwines.com 

Bosman Family Vineyards 

+27 21 873 3170 

114 


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