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I personally use all of the products,
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And that is thanks to MEDER!”
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IN THIS ISSUE
WINTER VOLUME 47. 2021
SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND
GLYCATION: A NEW
ARE THERE DIFFERENCES
BETWEEN MALE AND
DIVERSITY IN SKINCARE -
WHAT DOES IT MEAN?
OPTIMISING COLLAGEN &
NEW ADVANCES IN
INNOVATIVE WAYS TO USE
BERGAMOT OIL FOR MIND,
SKIN AND BODY
REGULATIONS, STANDARDS AND
WHY WE NEED TO RETURN
TO TACTILE SERVICES
ARE YOU GUILTY OF
MISLEADING ‘BEFORE AND
WHEN LOCKDOWN LOOMS,
AT-HOME BEAUTY TAKES
UPDATE OF THE
FOR BODY ART AND
COSMETIC TATTOO INKS
INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS, PRODUCTS
AND COSMETIC MEDICINE
AGEING LIPS AND
HEALTH & BUSINESS
BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL
WOMEN WHO CHANGED
SOCIAL MEDIA DURING
GAINING THE WINNING
MIDSET TO SUCCEED IN
A CHANGING WORLD
THE CEO THAT IS DRIVING
CHANGE THROUGH A
UNIQUE BUSINESS MODEL
TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
Dr Giulia D’Anna
(07) 5593 0360
Typeseng & Graphics
TEV Group Pty Ltd
Adversing & Markeng
Phone: (07) 5593 0360
Fax:(07) 5593 0367
Mobile: 0412 177 423
PO Box 5448, Q Super
Centre QLD 4218
TEV Group Pty Ltd
Design & Producon
Artwork and Editorial
TEV Group Pty Ltd
Unit 7D 76-84 Robina Town
Centre Drive, Robina QLD
Phone: (07) 5593 0360
Mobile: 0412 177 423
ACN: 136 987 169
ABN: 25 136 987 169
PO Box 5448, Q Super
Centre QLD 4218
Journal Advisory Board
Terry Everi - Educaon
Wendy Neely - PR and
Dr Douglas Grose - Scienfic
Naonal Advisory Council
Pint Post Approved
+ 61 452 449 045
For further informaon see
pages 10-13, 76-77.
The Aesthecs Praconers Journal is the official publicaon of the Aesthecs Praconers Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network
organisaon established to service the needs of the aesthecs industry in the area of professional development and business
networking. The Aesthecs Praconers Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform
and educate its members on beer business pracces and industry advancements. All editorials and arcles that are submied for
publishing remain the property of Aesthecs Praconers Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproducon in part or in whole is not permied
without prior wrien authorisaon by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scienfic and technical informaon
presented is as accurate as possible at the me of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek
external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendaons.
Dr Giulia D’Anna
I am wring this editor’s leer from
whatever day of isolaon it now is. I am
sure that for many of us in the country, we
have “iso-fague”. But even though we
might all be going through different
emoons on a daily (or maybe hourly)
basis, I must admit that I have found the
lockdown has provided me with some me
to get things done.
Since last year, I created a list of things
that I will do when I have me. During
normal business hours and funcon, this
list just sits there and accumulated. During
lockdown, I get it done! I have undertaken
so many different educaon courses, it
might be called an addicon, but one I am
very happy to admit.
The APAN conference fuelled this educaon desire of mine quite beaufully. The APAN
conference is one I always look forward to. The way our CEO Tina Viney has put it
together, is truly amazing as it caters for everyone around the country. Those in lockdown
can binge-watch it. Those sll working their usual hours, have 30 days to go back, watch
and revise. Truly revoluonary compared to most other online events which come and go
so quickly. Thank you Tina!
This issue is packed again with lots of inspiring arcles and informaon. This me we have
pulled together some really interesng pieces about skincare ingredients, COVID-19
strategies and some informave business arcles. I have wrien a piece on one of my
passions, which is around the lips, and what happens through the ageing process. It would
be so lovely to hear from you and tell me what you think.
So, stay posive and bright. We are all in this together. Here in Melbourne, we are so used
to the hard lockdown, that I know ‘we got this’. Anyme you need support or just
someone to talk to, reach out. Both myself, and APAN are here anyme you need us.
Unl we meet.
Terry Everi is regarded as a ‘Master
Skincare Professional’ due to his extensive
knowledge in the art and science of
skincare. A very competent educator and
regular lecturer on aesthec and medical
conferences where he presents up-to-date
informaon from an evidence-based
scienfic perspecve. Terry is the Director
of Aesthec Educators Pty Ltd.
Katherine McCann has moved to her new
dual posion within APAN. Her new tle
will now be Regulaons and Standards
Advisor and Press and Media Liaison.
Addionally, Katherine will connue to
contribute to APJ through arcles on
Cosmec Taooing as this is an area in
which she is truly an expert.
0405 069 311
Gay Wardle is a well-known mulawarding
winning industry expert and a
renowned lecturer who conducts
advanced skin analysis training for
businesses and their staff on all issue
pertaining to skin science.
0418 708 455
Jacine Greenwood is an internaonally
recognised educator who is known within
the industry for her up-to-date knowledge
and her ability to deliver training in an easy
to understand method. Jacine holds six
Diplomas, including a Diploma of Cosmec
Chemistry and a Bachelor of Nursing. Her
knowledge is highly respected in the
cosmec industry. With over 22 years
experience in the industry and a
background of cosmec formulaon,
Jacine has an immense knowledge of
current trends in research and new
developments in the industry.
07 3807 1429
We are delighted to welcome Deb
Farnworth-Wood as our new business
expert. Deb will be sharing her wealth of
knowledge in each issue of APJ.Her column
- Wisdom in Business will present
valuable, business-boosng ps. Deb is a
leading figurehead and business
development expert with amazing
achievements, also within our industry.
She has an incredible reputaon as a serial
entrepreneur. Expect to gain winning
strategies from this amazing woman.
Trish Hammond is an award-winning blog
and social media expert and the director of
Plasc Surgery Hub. She is renowned for
her skilful wring and interviews in all
facets of the social media space. Her
company specialises in the Aesthecs,
Cosmec Surgery and Cosmec Medicine
industry sectors for which she provides
personalised and comprehensive services
to help businesses communicate
powerfully, grow their brand and capture
new clients and paents.
0429 264 811
Dear colleagues and friends,
WE ARE WELL AND TRULY INTO WINTER, and it has been a
challenging month as several cies have been impacted with
COVID-19 lockdowns. However, may I encourage you all to stay
strong and connue to look at how you can move forward and
stay true to your dreams.
We regularly receive calls from despondent members who are
feeling somewhat overwhelmed and insecure. However, aer
speaking with many business owners and exploring their opons,
we are ALWAYS able to idenfy a strategy that perhaps was never
considered that will help them to move forward with renewed
hope. It thrills me to hear a level of confidence return in their voice
as they explore a new approach.
IS YOUR GLASS HALF FULL OR HALF EMPTY?
It is indeed incredible that despite the current chaoc disrupons
we are experiencing new opportunies for businesses to grow
connue to surface.
Even in this issue of APJ you will find several new companies that
are excited about supporng businesses and clinics to achieve ongoing
business success. They cover both new advances in
nutrional supplements, as well as topical formulaons with a
stronger focus on managing inflammaon, restoring the skin’s
microbiome and immunity, and accelerang healing in traumased
Also, many of our regular companies that support us are
connuing to innovate with new product and equipment
developments, please reach out to them and allow them to
support you in refining what you are currently doing and step-up
your services and your results. You will find them in this issue of
The other day I was thinking about the lockdowns and the
dynamics that are impacng us all during these disrupons and I
would have to say that the biggest enemy is ulmately within, and
it’s called FEAR. When you really think about it, there are 365
days in a year. The lockdowns are oen one to two weeks with
the maximum being 60-90 days. Rather than focusing on what
business you will lose during these days, why not focus on how
you are going to make the rest of the year successful? Explore
ways to make up for the temporary losses. This is not a pipe
dream, it is an absolute possibility, we have seen it happen to so
many salons and clinics me and me again. Make sure you are
one of the survivors – you owe it to yourself and your clients.
Having said that APAN is relentlessly commied to dialogues with
the government about the danger and risks of lockdowns to
businesses, as they are not sustainable and alternave soluons
are urgently needed. We are also working collaboravely with
other organisaons in this effort.
NEW MENTAL HEALTH AND BUSINESS PROGRAM
There has never been a more important me to guard our mind
and our thoughts. This is a mely season to strengthen your
skillset on mental and emoonal agility and embrace new ways of
relang to others and doing business. It will not only help you gain
the strength to overcome the current challenges, it will allow you
to also develop mental stamina to face the future, whatever it
As we explore and review the needs of the industry, we are
constantly seeking ways to stand with you and support you in your
personal and professional journey, whether you are a praconer
working for others, or a business owner. At this me your needs
may be diverse, but they are also universal. While technically you
are constantly seeking ways to connue to improve your skills, you
also need to invest in appropriate tools to help your mental and
emoonal wellbeing, and at this me you need a tailored program
that addresses three key areas:
• Personal resilience: mastering your thoughts
• Communicaon: Improving your communicaon and
relaonships with others
“Where there is
division there is
weakness, but where
there is unity there is
- Helen Bryce
• New business strategies: Gaining new business skills to
address today’s challenges.
APAN is oen referred to as the forerunner when it comes to
industry innovaons, and for several months now, at the top of
our list has been to develop a mental health and business survival
program that was not generic, but designed specifically around the
needs that we are idenfying through our regular interacon with
While we reviewed several exisng programs we were not
convinced they were specific enough for our industry. Aer
extensive research we idenfied the person that we believe would
be able to customise a program specifically for our industry.
This individual was referred to us by a member of our Advisory
Council and has impressive qualificaons and credenals in the
area of Human Resource Management and Mental Health.
Over the past few months, we have been working with their
company to design a 12-unit program that can be incrementally
undertaken to help you gain incredible skills in improving mental
and emoonal health, agility, improve communicaon skills with
others and gain the mindset to help move forward with your
The cross-over of behavioural, personal, and business
development are the perfect skillset that we believe will benefit
every business owner to achieve tangible support and advance
skills to transform their current challenges into opportunies. We
ancipate that the first few units will be available by the end of
August/September. We truly believe that everyone will be able to
benefit from this program. We will make it affordable, so it is
accessible to all. Please see pages 106 for further details and
register your expression of interest. We know you will love it and
it will provide you with incredible benefits.
This year is shaping up to be the year of regulaons.
TATTOO PIGMENT REGULATIONS: We are currently working
with the Queensland Health in the ongoing review of regulang
taoo pigment/ink safety. At the me of wring of this journal I
can confirm we have a scheduled meeng with the Queensland
Health Minister’s office on 26th August as discussions connue.
You will find more details on this iniave on pages 94-96.
QLD UPDATES ITS LASER AND IPL REGULATIONS: This
included a review of both licences and standards.
TGA DEVICE REFORMS: Addionally, we have had an extensive
meeng with the TGA in Canberra as they are reviewing the need
for Device Reforms with a consultaon that was circulated earlier
this month. They are currently going through a process of
amending Australia’s medical devices regulaons. The proposed
refinements of the regulaon are for medical devices such as
lasers and IPLs that also introduce substances into the human
body via a body orifice or applied to the skin.
NSW: NEW HEALTH REGULATIONS FOR COSMETIC NURSES:
These will introduce some more stringent measures and will
commence 1st September 2021 (see page 97).
I wish to also report that our online conference was a great
success and we received excellent feedback. Let’s believe that in
2022 it will be feasible to conduct a face-to-face conference as we
are also looking forward to meeng with many of you again.
Please note that your feedback is crical to us as we navigate the
best possible ways to support you. To our wonderful members, our
sincere thanks and gratude for your on-going support as you
allow us to connue to serve you.
United we stand.
INTRODUCING A NEW
Stem Cell Technology
Molecules from Mulple Tissue Specific
WHILE THE WORLD IS EXPERIENCING ON-GOING
DISRUPTIONS, sciensts connue to invesgate ways of
providing us with hope towards a beer world through their
specific areas of research.
In the area of skincare, NeoGenesis is taking the lead, achieving an
incredible breakthrough ulising specific adult skin stem cell
patented technology (S²RM®). This skincare range was recently
launched in Australia, bringing new hope in treatment outcomes
for three specific areas of need:
• An-ageing: skin renewal and rejuvenaon
• Inflamed skin: eczema, psoriasis, acne, reacve/sensive skin
• Traumased skin: Post invasive and non-invasive treatments
and oncology related burns treatments
While skincare and wound healing products with varying
ingredients abound in the marketplace, stem cells and the
molecules that they express, or release, are rapidly emerging oen
with lile or no regulatory oversight, or robust scienfic validaon.
Specifically, confusion exists amongst doctors, skincare
professionals and end-users about the stem cell types, their
molecules, and the use of both cells and molecules in formulang
topical and injectable products. Efficacious topical products can be
a great preventave strategy for ageing skin and its associated
afflicons, but which ones are scienfically validated?
ABOUT DR. GREG MAGUIRE
NeoGenesis skincare formulaons are based on robust evidencebased
science and are developed to deliver safe, fast, and
efficacious treatment outcomes. Their co-founder and Chief
Scienfic Officer Greg Maguire Ph.D. is a renowned scienst with
impressive credenals from various universies.
University of Texas, The Marine Biological Labs, Woods Hole, MA,
and Cold Spring Harbor Laboratory, NY.
He is a former professor of neuroscience and ophthalmology at
the University of California, San Diego School of Medicine (UCSD),
a vising associate professor of physiology at Keio University
School of Medicine in Tokyo, Japan, vising assistant professor of
molecular neurobiology at the University of Washington, and a
vising scienst at Massachuses General Hospital (MGH), at
Dr. Maguire was awarded a presgious Fulbright-Fogarty
Fellowship from the Naonal Instutes of Health (NIH). He
managed his NIH funded laboratory at UCSD, studying ssue
degeneraon and regeneraon, and the role of stem cell released
molecules (SRM). Dr Maguire was mentored by Dr. John Bertrand
Gurdon, Ph.D., a professor of developmental biology at Cambridge
University, who was awarded a Nobel Prize in Physiology or
Medicine in 2012 for his pioneering work in stem cells.
Through Dr Gurdon Dr. Greg Maguire learned the techniques of
nuclear transfer, and the translaon of microinjected messenger
RNA molecules in oocytes to analyse DNA to RNA and for protein
synthesis. These studies resulted in the development of
S²RM® technology on which NeoGenesis is based.
So, what is the science behind the NeoGenesis formulaons and
what is the significance of S²RM® technology? To understand this,
we first need to review the method of stem cell harvesng and
gain an understanding of the important role of stem cell released
In brief, Dr. Maguire pursued his graduate training at the
University of California, Berkeley, University of Houston,
Model: Catherine Roberts
© Joseph Bogges
STEM CELL HARVESTING: HOW IT’S DONE
NeoGenesis harvests mulple human stem cell types from healthy
adults who have donated skin ssue voluntarily through cerfied
ssue banks in the United States. This process is highly regulated
by the FDA and other regulatory agencies. These “skin resident”
stem cells are sourced from the dermal and hypodermal layers of
the skin. The molecules that are released from these stem cells
have naturally evolved to support the repair and regeneraon
processes in our skin throughout our lives. The collecon of
molecules from the stem cells contains no genec material and are
composed mostly of a variety of proteins needed to maintain and
heal the skin’s structure and funcon.
STEM CELL RELEASED MOLECULES: WHY THEY ARE
NeoGenesis uses a patented technology called Stem Cell Released
Molecules (SRM). The term S²RM® is used to show that two or
more types of skin resident stem cell lines are needed for skin
repair and regeneraon. This technology mimics the healing
process that takes place in our bodies naturally, by simply
returning to the damaged ssue the molecules that were present
in greater abundance when the skin was young and healthy.
Instead of subjecng the stem cells to crushing and chemical
extracon methods to collect a sub-opmal and damaged (Lee et
al, 2017) set of molecules, or adding in non-skin resident
anoxidants, pepdes, and growth factors in the lab, NeoGenesis
uses the full and natural complement of molecules released, not
extracted, from the stem cells that already encompass all of those
nave properes known to maintain and heal the skin by replacing
what you’ve lost over me.
Equally important, the SRM helps to build the stem cell niche of
the skin, which has been found to maintain the stem cells resident
in the skin in a less aged state (Ge et al, 2020).
PATENTED TECHNOLOGY: ETHICALLY DERIVED STEM CELLS
Using the correct set of adult stem cell types that are resident in
the skin (not stem cells from other parts of the body that serve
funcons other than to maintain and heal the skin) is the key to the
NeoGenesis technology. This concept is called “ssue specific
stemFuchs and Blau, 2020). This means that sciensts idenfy and
ulise the correct stem cell types that are nave to the skin to
opmally repair and regenerate skin ssue.
NeoGenesis stem cells are ethically derived from healthy adult
ssue donaons, a process highly regulated through the FDA, to
support a natural approach to healing; therefore, they do not use
embryonic, bone marrow, or plant-derived stem cells. For example,
research shows that bone marrow stem cells in skincare may cause
rapid, but limited improvements in the skin at first, but with
prolonged use, can cause an over proliferaon of cells that may
lead to accelerated ageing, increased inflammaon, and even
cancerous development (Maguire, 2019).
NeoGenesis products are abundant in the molecules that the skin
already naturally produces, but have diminished in quality and
numbers through ageing, disease, or environmental factors. This
methodology (Maguire, 2014) provides a natural approach to
healing called “systems therapeucs” where we simply return to
the damaged ssue the many molecule types that were present
when it was healthy. And because we use the many molecules that
are nave to the skin to return the skin’s physiology back to a
normal state, we can achieve very efficacious and safe outcomes
using the S²RM® technology (Maguire, 2019A). This is called
“systems therapeucs for physiological renormalisaon” (Maguire
and Friedman, 2019).
THE MECHANISM OF THE ACTION AND THE ROLE OF
The efficacy of the NeoGenesis serums and moisturisers is derived
from their patented S²RM® technology, where they use skin
resident adult human stem cells to produce molecules that are
then protected and delivered by exosomes. Exosomes are smart
nanospheres (similar to liposomes, but operate more efficiently),
with an innate ability to easily diffuse through ssues, seek out
target cells, and pass the brain-blood barrier (Maguire, 2016). The
lipid bilayer of the exosome contains transmembrane proteins with
a variety of external pepde sequences, and number
polysaccharides and proteins on the outer layer that also help to
impart smart behaviour to the liposome-like structure of the
exosome, this makes the exosome more funconal than its manmade
counterpart, the liposome. Addionally, given their unique
lipidome, exosomes are more pliable than liposomes and can
therefore more easily squeeze through small passages in the skin.
THE POWER OF EXOSOMES
The exosome is part of a mul-fold mechanism of acon in the
skin whereby one exosome can deliver 20,000 proteins to a site
(Maguire, 2016), all arriving together and focused on repair of the
damaged area. This is vastly different and far more effecve than
delivering 20,000 proteins randomly, without focus, arriving at
different mes and locaons. Without exosome delivery,
randomly diffusing the proteins in this way, repair is also more
random and less complete. The natural pepde sequences found
with the exosome along with number polysaccharides and
proteins on the outer layer would also be missing without the
presence of the exosome.
are used by several companies for their stem cell molecules, as
opposed to the more advanced and expensive release technology
used at NeoGenesis, yielding molecules that may not be fully
formed and not packaged into the exosome delivery system.
REMODELLING NEW AND OLD SCARS
NeoGenesis S²RM® technology provides the proteins (molecules)
needed to heal the ssue (collagen and other matrix proteins) to
migate scars from forming (Maguire, 2019). As healing ssue is
constantly rebuilding, they connue to provide those proteins for
normal, not scarred, healing. There will be a poron of the
damaged collagen that does not remodel. In this case, you are le
with what you have. Some of the damaged collagen remains.
Therefore, NeoGenesis products provide the proteins needed to
remodel damaged collagen for more complete and natural healing,
but not all collagen, will remodel. In the womb, scarless healing
takes place in a sterile environment. Once someone is out in the
world, it is a very dirty environment that creates the need of a
quick and rapid proliferaon of collagen to close the wound
quickly. Flawless healing is not a consideraon by the body, only
quickly closing a wound for protecon from the pathogens,
angens and toxins impinging on the wound bed. Older scars are
showing us the part of the collagen that could not be remodelled
however an improvement can oen be shown in older scars.
Using S²RM® technology, NeoGenesis products used in
conjuncon with professional treatments such as microneedling,
may have a posive effect by pung the scar back into healing
mode and remodelling any collagen that may be healed more
RESTORING HOMEOSTASIS THAT RESULTS IN SKIN REPAIR
NeoGenesis products can treat a wide variety of condions by
supplying the molecules (proteins) needed to strengthen the ssue
and bring it back into balance. When the ssue is in balance
(homeostasis), it is far less likely to result in the symptoms of
inflammaon, severe dryness, itching, blistering, pain, or skin
damage from ageing or acne. Creang homeostasis in the skin
therefore results in an improvement in appearance and symptoms
such as ageing skin, acne, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, cold sores
NeoGenesis Recovery serum has been shown to reduce the
burning, blistering, darkening of the skin and pain associated with
cancer treatments. When applied to injuries to the skin, such as
small cuts, abrasions and burns, the skin heals quickly and in most
cases, without leaving a scar. Bruises have been shown to
dissipate more quickly when NeoGenesis serums are applied.
Because the S²RM® technology is natural to the skin, it is a very
gentle approach to skin condions for even the most sensive
NEXT GENERATION STEM CELL SCIENCE
It is the patented S²RM® technology found in many NeoGenesis
products that creates superior repair and maintenance of the skin
as it ages, or becomes damaged. By delivering the needed blend of
proteins for repair, NeoGenesis is able to quell inflammaon and
provide the skin with the nutrients it needs to funcon as it did
when it was young and healthy.
Exosomes are naturally produced in great quanes by human
stem cells in the body and when the correct steps are carefully
taken to process human stem cells in the laboratory, the same
quality and quanty of molecules is produced in the lab as it is in
the body. NeoGenesis produces the full complement of molecules
and exosomes for superior delivery and bioavailability, bringing
damaged ssue back to a state of homeostasis.
Technologically inferior and less expensive extracon processing
LET NEOGENESIS HELP YOU TAKE YOUR
RESULTS TO THE NEXT LEVEL.
The NeoGenesis system comprises of a unique
and highly effecve product range that is
completely safe, non-toxic, and works to
opmise and restore the skin’s own
homeostasis. These products are perfectly
paired to deliver successful pre and post
Using their patented S²RM® technology
NeoGenesis products provide targeted and
efficacious result for a variety of skincare
needs, even the most challenging. They
support the skin to achieve transformaon by
providing the molecules and nutrients that
help the skin heal and repair more rapidly.
NEOGENESIS SKINCARE PRODUCTS
COME WITH 100% GUARANTEE
0452 449 045
THIS YEAR, IN CELEBRATION OF INTERNATIONAL
WOMEN’S DAY we decided to feature in every issue of APJ
the life of an inspiraonal woman who impacted the world
through their courage and incredible contribuon. In the
previous issue we featured Florence Nighngale as the
amazing force that contributed to nursing becoming a
respected profession. In this issue we are featuring the
illustrious life of Estée Lauder who shaped the cosmec
Estée Lauder, the founder of the company that bears her
name, was a visionary and a role model. She was a challenger
who proved that anything was possible — if you dared to
dream it and had the guts and gumpon to go for it. Ahead of
her me in every way, she created and ran one of the world’s
most presgious and innovave skincare companies while
serving as a wife, mother and a loyal friend to many. And she
did it all with charm, humour and exquisite style. She loved
beauty with a passion and believed wholeheartedly in its
Born in 1906, Josephine Esther Mentzer, Estée Lauder was
raised in Queens, New York, by her Hungarian mother, Rose,
and Czech father, Max. The name Estée was a variaon of her
Her interest in beauty was sparked in high school when her
Hungarian uncle came to live with her family and created
velvety skin creams, first in the kitchen, then in a laboratory
in a stable out back. From her uncle, Estée not only learned
how to concoct the wonderful creams, but also how to apply
them to women’s faces.
The Estée Story
remained married unl his death in 1982, and she later
regreed her divorce, saying that she married young and
assumed that she had missed out on life but soon found out
that she had the "sweetest husband in the world."
HOW IT ALL STARTED
Estée got her start selling skincare and makeup in
hairdressing salons, demonstrang her products on women
while they were sing under hair dryers. In 1946 she and
Joseph Lauder officially launched the company, and a year
later they got their first major order: $800 worth of products
from Saks Fih Avenue.
She started her business with four skincare products and a
simple philosophy that every woman can be beauful. Armed
with that philosophy, plus perseverance, creavity and
passion, she became a driving force and changed the face of
the cosmecs industry.
HER PERSONAL LIFE
In the late 1920s, Estée met Joseph Lauter when she was in
her early 20s. On January 15, 1930 they were married and
moved to Manhaan. Shortly thereaer, the couple adopted
the surname Lauder, correcng a misspelling that dated back
to when Joseph's father emigrated from Austria to the United
Their first child, Leonard, was born March 19, 1933. The
couple separated then divorced in 1939 and she moved to
Florida, but they remarried in 1942. Their second
son, Ronald, was born in 1944. Estée and Joseph Lauder
SHE KNEW WHAT WOMEN WANT
Estée had innate insncts for what women
wanted and was the consummate
saleswoman and marketer. She believed
that to make a sale, you had to touch the
consumer, show her the results on her face
and explain the products. That was the
start of the company’s personal High-
She was one of the first cosmec icons to
introduce the "Gi with Purchase" idea
and took it to new heights, elevang it to
such popularity that it became a standard
commercial pracce with other brands as
Working closely with women she quickly
learned first-hand how to smulate a
woman’s desire for beauty and how to
provide them with appropriate cosmec
care that combines the sensorial feeling of
beaufully-craed skincare with the alure
of personal indulgence, as a daily ritual.
One of her famous sayings was “Never
underesmate any woman’s desire for
Once the Estée Lauder brand began to
adverse, Estée insisted that the print
images be both aspiraonal and
approachable and selected one model to
represent the face of the brand at any
given me. She picked the pale turquoise
colour for the brand’s jars, believing it
conveyed a sense of luxury and matched
all bathroom decors.
Estée Lauder was a brilliant marketer who
knew how to appeal both to the elite, as
well as the masses basing her adversing
on an innate understanding of what the
average woman truly longed for – to
nurture their own femininity and to
culvate their own beauty.
Estée was passionate and extremely
hardworking and aended the opening of
virtually every new store and stayed for a
week to instruct her beauty advisors on
sales techniques and merchandise display.
Always stylish and well dressed, she
became a role model of what women could
aspire to by using her products. Always
gracious and approachable, she crossed
the naon to meet with store buyers and
beauty editors and to talk to consumers.
She was a one-person research and
Decades before social media became
mainstream, Estée ran word-of-mouth
campaigns. Her oen repeated mantra was
“Telephone, Telegraph, Tell a Woman.” She
believed that women who liked her
products would spread the word.
PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES OF
Estée Lauder was not only a skin care
pioneer, she also had a wonderful fragrance “nose.” One of her earliest
successes was her Youth-Dew creaon, a blend of rose, jasmine, vever and
patchouli that would bring her olfactory fame.
Unl the 1950s, most women reserved fragrance for special occasions. A
woman would wait for her husband to give her perfume on her birthday or
anniversary. Estée wanted to find a way for women to buy their own
perfume, so in 1953 she created Youth-Dew, a bath oil that doubled as a
skin perfume. This innovaon took the cosmecs industry by storm,
changing the way fragrance was sold and transforming the fledgling start-up
company into a mulmillion-dollar business.
Estée was the quintessenal entrepreneur who refused to listen to experts
or sele for anything less than the very best. She constantly challenged the
status quo and is described as someone you simply couldn’t say no to.
A serial entrepreneur she oversaw the creaon of five addional brands —
Aramis, Clinique, Prescripves, Lab Series and Origins — and always insisted
that the company’s products be made from the highest-quality ingredients.
A COSMETIC ICON
Estée Lauder was an iconic cosmec innovator that changed the way
women related to skincare and cosmecs in general, making them a staple
part of their everyday roune. She was always in the know about fashion
trends, and founded and launched her namesake brand at a me when
Givenchy, Chanel, Dior, Balenciaga and other designers were shaping the
Estée loved New York City and drew inspiraon from its sophiscated,
vibrant, stylish culture. In the middle of the 20th century, New York was the
“No one EVER became
a success without taking
chances...One must be able to
recognise the moment and seize
it without delay...”
global centre for art, architecture, innovaon
and entrepreneurship. Although Estée's heart
was in New York, she had homes in the South
of France, London and Palm Beach, among
other localies. She travelled the world and
loved to visit museums and art galleries, aend
fashion shows and learn about her customers
and their respecve cultures.
AWARDS AND HONOURS
As a visionary businesswoman, Estée Lauder
was honoured with many awards during her
career. Receiving the French Legion of Honour
from the Consul General of France, Gerard
Causer which was one of the high points in her
life. In January 16, 1978 she was the first
woman to receive the Chevalier
Commendaon and she was inducted to the
Junior Achievement U.S. Business Hall of Fame
in 1988. She received the Presidenal Medal
of Freedom in 2004.
Estée supported numerous civic and cultural
programs and other charitable causes,
including the restoraon of the Palace of
Versailles and the building of several
playgrounds in New York City’s Central Park.
in Manhaan in April 2004 at the incredible
age of 97.
HER INSPIRATION TODAY
The world has changed dramacally since
Estée Lauder created her brand in 1946. But
the core values she embodied - respect for the
individual, integrity, generosity of spirit and
entrepreneurship remain at the heart of the
Estée Lauder Companies and connue to
inspire women of all generaons.
Today the brand engages with women in more
than 150 countries and territories and at
dozens of touch points — both in stores and
online. And each relaonship consistently
reflects Estée’s powerful and authenc
convicons and unique point of view. More
than 48,000 employees connue Estée's bold,
breakthrough efforts, with a commitment to
helping millions of consumers discover and
express their own beauty.
Renowned as one of the world’s most
influenal woman. She was sort out and
became friends with some of the most famous
celebries, royalty and arsts of her me and
was known for her impeccable style and her
warm and gracious entertaining.
The only thing more important to Estée than
the Company was her family, and she was
thrilled that her children and grandchildren
joined the family business.
Having lived an illustrious lifeEstée finally
rered in 1995 and passed away in her home
I am a proud
I am supported with
— Expert advice
— Resource documents
— Regulatory and business support
— Educaonal conferences
— Qualificaons’ recognion
— Promong my business on SalonHubAustralia.com.au
— Connecng with my community on social
— Strong representaon for my needs with the
— Represent what will best serve me within regulaons
(07) 5593 0360 firstname.lastname@example.org www.apanetwork.com/membership
AGEING LIPS and
Dr Giulia D’Anna
AGEING BEGINS AT THE RIPE-OLD AGE OF 25! From this point
onward, our genec chronology means that we produce less
collagen every year. This is seen in changes all over the face and
body, but parcularly in the lower face.
There are several changes that occur in the lip as a result of
ageing. The most notable is in the lip ssue itself. In youth, the lip
is bound by a mucosal covering. Underneath this is a layer of fat
that surrounds the Orbicularis Oris muscle. This is important as it
gives voluptuous and structure.
In the perioral region, the cutaneous poron of the lip contains
hair follicles, sweat glands and most importantly, small oestrogen
receptors. Again, these give the cutaneous part of the lip structure
posteriorly, and the lateral aspects of the mandible also loses
volume and height. This translates to movement of the teeth and
again less support of the lip ssue.
The cutaneous part of the lip starts to lose collagen and this is
parcularly accelerated in menopausal women. The oestrogen
receptors start to see a decline in the essenal hormones,
resulng in an over-exaggerated response in the lips. Barcode
lines – also known as smokers’ lines – start to appear with every
contracon of the Orbicularis Oris muscle.
The vermillion border will start to lose volume too, as the fat
content over the Orbicularis Oris muscle decreases with me. This
results in folding of the muscle and the result is less lip display, this
further compounds the appearance of marionee lines, since
there is more compression of the lip onto the lower lip, with the
reduced supporve ssue.
Part of our response to these changes will be:
• Check the dental occlusion and make improvements where
So, what happens when we age?
The underlying skeleton of the face changes in several ways. The
maxilla starts to narrow and regress posteriorly. This provides less
support to the upper lip, as the teeth shi, due to the shiing
paern in the bone shape. The mandible also undergoes some
changes too. The alveolar bone becomes thinner and moves
• Increase the collagen and hyaluronic acid producon in the
perioral region and lips through smulaon
• Use of skin boosters to improve skin condion and hydraon.
• Balancing lip posion with neuromodulators.
• Increase Hyaluronic Acid deposion through the use of fillers.
This will provide structure and support to the lip, helping to
'upright' the Orbicularis Oris muscle.
Changes in the dental occlusion, or the way teeth bite, are
constantly occurring through life. We can have a vercal
dimension change (where the teeth close over each other more
than they used to. Vercal dimension changes can occur as a
result of tooth wear, tooth loss and crowding of the teeth.
As the vercal dimension of occlusion changes, the distance
between the maxilla and the mandible is also changed. Therefore,
the posion of the upper and lower lips at smile will also change.
The movement of the corners of the mouth is dictated by the
modiolus (also known as the oral commissure or chellion), where
eight muscles meet. In parcular, the Zygomacus Major and the
Depressor Anguli Oris muscles, which insert into the zygomac
arch and the mandible, respecvely. So, changing the vercal
dimension, will result in a changed lip posture and posion also.
The other change that can occur with the
dental occlusion over me, is a loss in
dental protrusion of the teeth. This means
that instead of the teeth being nicely
posioned and holding the lip ssue out,
there can be crowding where the teeth
crowd over one another. This leads to the
teeth sing less prominently, and thus the
lip posion will also be less projected.
Combined with the loss in vercal
dimension, this results in the lips being less
everted and further results in the folding in
of the lip itself.
projecon of the teeth themselves, so the lip support from
both the teeth and supporng maxilla and mandibular bones
will be increased. Some broad opons are tradional bracket
braces and the more contemporary approach of aligners to
straighten the teeth.
• Restoraon of teeth. Many mes, paents will opt for the
quick fix. This is where we use dental restorave techniques to
enhance the teeth. By adding porcelain veneers over the teeth,
the length and projecon of the teeth will also be improved.
Again, this has a supporve effect on the lip structure sing
• Replacement of missing teeth. Whenever we lose a tooth,
there is a resulng loss of the bone that would normally sit
around the roots of the natural teeth. Replacing the teeth will
result in beer dental occlusion or bite, and again beer
support. There are a number of treatment opons for replacing
• Dental implants
• Dental bridges
INCREASING COLLAGEN AND HYALURONIC ACID (HA)
Strategies to increase collagen and HA are wide and varied, and
largely depend upon the technologies and equipment you have in
your clinic. Some opons include:
• Light-based energies, such as IPL, LED and laser
• Radiofrequency, or similar energy-based devices.
All of these smulatory treatments are aimed at ‘ramping up’ the
fibroblasts that are non-producve. With increased producon,
our clients will begin to noce an improvement in the cutaneous
lip stability, and also the resistance of the lip to creasing when the
mouth muscle is contracted. Several sessions will be required, and
maintenance over me too.
Strategies to correct the lip support from the teeth are long and
varied. But in summary some opons may include:
• Correcon of tooth posion with orthodonc treatment. This
will create and increased vercal dimension and increased
Unlike tradional Hyaluronic Acid dermal fillers, Skin-boosters are
a form of Hyaluronic Acid that are completely non-crosslinked.
Cross linking is the amount of bonding that is usually present in
dermal filler that gives it the ability to li, enhance and be stable in
the skin for months or years at a me. Non-crosslinked HA cannot
do this. They act similar to an “injected hydrator” that improves
skin health and vitality, without any enhancement. We all know
that hydrated skin funcons beer, as nutrient perfusion and
cellular acvity is improved. Skin-boosters work on this principle.
The Skin-booster treatment is not intended to fill lines and
wrinkles. Instead, it is to hydrate the skin and promote formaon
of new collagen and elasn in the long term. Paents noce a
more dewy and firmer appearance to the skin and more of a ‘glow’
as a result. Unlike tradional dermal fillers, they are not injected
beneath the skin to volumise or accentuate certain features of the
face. Instead, they are injected directly into the dermis to hydrate
and improve overall skin quality. The Skin-booster’s stabilised HA
is very fluid, so the final result is smooth and subtle resulng in a
healthy, plump and glowing complexion.
1. Highlighng the Glogau-Klein point of the lip
2. Improving the philtral columns
3. Improving the vermillion border definion
4. Improving the natural volume of the lips
Depending upon the lip type – Type 1 being an already wellformed
lip, through to a Type 5 being a lip type that has
completely lost lip structure – different techniques can be
employed to enhance the lips. In my pracce, I use three main
techniques, but frequently use hybrids of all three to achieve my
It is recommended to do three treatments,
two to four weeks apart following with
maintenance treatments every four to six
months. This is perfect for paents that
would like the ‘untouched look”.
NEUROMODULATOR USE FOR LIP
Newtons third law states that “for every
acon, there is an equal and opposite
reacon”. This is the same for the muscles
of the face. The use of neuromodulators, or
Botulinum Toxin Type A, can assist our
paents by removing the depressor muscles
that pull the lips in a downward direcon.
One of my favourite treatments is to
provide a ‘jowl li’. This involves
administering Botulinum Toxin to the
Depressor Anguli Oris (DAO). The DAO is
responsible for pulling the corners of the
mouth, when grimacing or making a sad face. The jowl li is a
precise treatment helps to modify the corner of the mouth. Since
the DAO cannot pull down, the elevator muscles have the
resulng acon of liing the oral commissures. This helps to
decrease the marionee lines and improve the overall appearance
of the lips.
The techniques I use rounely are:
• Classic lip enhancement
• Cannula lip enhancement
• Tenng – a.k.a. Russian– technique
The scope of this arcle cannot cover
which technique is best used in which
circumstance, but each has benefits for
each type of lip structure, and which area of
the lip requires enhancement. I spent the
last six years teaching these techniques to
improve outcomes for Doctors, Densts
and Registered nurses, and have an excing
program available to really solidify this
The best results come from a combined
approach or using several techniques to
achieve rejuvenaon of the lips and perioral
region. Not all paents will opt for an
enhancement, and similarly, not all paents
will undertake tooth correcon treatments.
The concepts here are to work as a team
reviewing the best possible soluons for
the paent’s individual needs. APJ
Lip enhancement is not always about creang big lips. In many
cases, my aim for my paents is to restore structure and
architecture to the lips. This will be aimed at:
Formulators of PHYT’S
GLOBAL LEADERS IN ORGANIC COSMETIC
A MAJOR PLAYER IN ORGANIC AND NATURAL COSMETICS,
the French group Jérodia with nearly 50 years of experse to its
credit, is constantly developing new organic cosmecs to nurture
its consumers' wellbeing and help businesses pivot their focus to
fulfill the growing demand for safe, result-driven skincare opons.
The Jérodia Group now has several brands made in France and
internaonally, including Phyt's, Gamarde, Françoise Morice.
Renowned for the high quality of their formulaons, Jérodia
Group, in addion to their brands, are also accessed by other
natural cosmec brands to white label some of their formulaons
and benefit from their extensive knowledge. Jérodia Group is
considered globally as a leader and specialist in organic
PRESERVING NATURE THROUGH THE MANUFACTURE OF
Being part of the pioneers in that field, Laboratoires PHYT'S,
located in the South of France, have since 1972 been commied
to developing natural cosmecs and food supplements to promote
organic farming, far from pescides, synthec ingredients, and
The group places great emphasis on research and development in
the formulaons of their quality innovaons. Thanks to mulple
manufacturing facilies, all their products are manufactured
without the need for sub-contracng part of the process
elsewhere. This ability to group and control all aspects of the
producon process from the research and development to the end
products, has allowed them to develop unique and comprehensive
experse, as well as ensure the quality assurance of all their
products, which are distributed in France and globally.
SOCIAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY
In addion to offering labelled organic, natural, or vegan products,
Phyt's and the Jerodia Group as a whole, place great emphasis on
social and environmental responsibility. Raw materials are sourced
primarily in France and when this is not possible, Jérodia turns to
fair trade materials.
Laboratoires Phyt's is also commied to promong local
employment and maintaining an agricultural acvity reoriented
towards organic. The company supports local iniaves and
creates partnerships favouring local, high-quality, cerfied organic
supplies that opmise the raw materials' carbon footprint.
PEOPLE ARE AT THE CENTER OF THE BRAND’S PHILOSOPHY
As with its respect for nature, people remain at the centre of the
brand's holisc beauty philosophy. Each product is developed to
achieve visible results, while bringing pleasure to the user. Both
effecveness and the client experience are never overlooked.
Phyt's offers a complete and comprehensive skincare range that
meets an extensive range of skincare needs including oily and
problemac skin types to mature with an-ageing skincare
requirements. The range includes skin-lightening and rebalancing
products, a comprehensive moisturising range, a sun range,
slimming body products, as well as a baby range and a selecon of
skincare soluons for men. In short, their skincare soluons are
extensive and exceponally comprehensive.
UNIQUE SAFETY AND HYGIENIC PACKAGING
Phyt’s Laboratories develop treatments for both professional use,
as well as homecare. The uniqueness of the brand is that all
professional treatments are packaged in single-use kits filled with
glass vials that guarantee perfect hygiene and preservaon of
THE PHYT’S COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE
There are now many organic cosmecs brands available, and the
current pandemic has undoubtedly been a trend accelerator
towards clean and organic consumer preferences. Organic is now
anchored in our lifestyle. A recent consumer report released by
Stasa indicated the annual global market growth for organic and
natural beauty reached 10.4% in 2021 with a forecast of ongoing
growth of 9.4% in the next 12 months. Comparavely to the
global beauty market annual growth which came in at only 5.25%,
posions the organic and natural market at an impressive twice
Meanwhile, Phyt’s connues to innovate to ensure they lead in
offering the highest quality products, because not all organic
products are created equal! They are considered experts in this
area. From the beginning Phyt’s have been
proponents and innovators of natural and
organic cosmecs. Leading the way, Phyt's
Laboratories today are integrang green
chemistry technologies opening new
possibilies to the use of novel ingredients,
while keeping their integrity and safety in
terms of 100% natural and organic
Their compeve advantage is that their
products are formulated with ingredients of
natural origin that match the results of acve
cosmecs in clinically proven ways. Phyt’s
constantly introduces products that are at the
leading edge of this market segment.
MEETING WITH THE HIGHEST STRINGENT
PHYT'S products are defined as bio-acve
cosmecs. All their formulaons are made
from 100% natural origin ingredients, free of
synthec preservaves, GMO and harmful
chemical ingredients. They are cerfied
organic in accordance with the Cosmebio
requirements. This charter gave birth to very
demanding specificaons filed with the Ministry of Industry in
France. It was developed specifically for the cosmec industry
and covers far beyond ingredients coming from organic farming. A
bio-acve cosmec means that, aside from the absence of
pollutants such as pescides, chemical ferlisers, GMO, CMR,
which in the long-term are harmful to our body and the
environment, the cosmec product is rich in bio-acve properes
with a significant amount of acve ingredients. The Phyt’s values
and philosophy are now understood and demanded by distributors
and consumers alike. They do not develop cosmecs that mask
symptoms as synthec chemicals oen do, but organic cosmecs
designed to nourish and revive the skin metabolism.
0416 143 537 or 1300 656 627
A LEADING GLOBAL
PHYT’S MOST RECENT innovaon is the Panacea high-end range
- an exceponal global treatment for the face and eye contour.
PANACEA - the new entrant in the luxury high-performance
skincare category comes in two products – a divinely nutrious
cream, and an incredible eye-contour product. Both products
combine global age-defying acons with the heavenly fragrance of
rosewood, novel eco-packaging, and a definite focus on skin
health and safety, as well as an 100% natural and cerfied organic
We all love a story that inspires and intrigues. A decade in the
making, Panacea has now been stepped-up to enter the luxury
high-performance market segment. The range was inspired by the
unparalleled resilience of the Edelweiss flower, an extremophile.
Extremophiles are plants (and other microorganisms) that live in
extreme condions and have adapted to thrive in the most
inhospitable environments like extreme cold, heat, or isolaon.
They have survived by adapng to these environments and today,
are the craze of sciensts learning how to use them as acve
ingredients in cosmecs.
Edelweiss is such a plant. It grows at 6,000 to 10,000 feet in
limestone where UV exposure is high and cold temperatures can
be extreme. Edelweiss extracts have a high concentraon of
flavonoids and phenolic acid to fight UV-induced damage and
make them an ideal constuent of sunscreens. The same
components that protect the flower from intense ultraviolet rays
at high altudes also protect our skin from sun damage.
The Edelweiss flower is loaded with anoxidants that scavenge
the harmful free radicals and help to reverse the visible signs of
ageing. It is also contains a high concentraon of Leontopodic
Acids A and B that smulate and increase producon of hyaluronic
acid and prevent collagen degradaon, thus reducing the
appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Packed with other exceponal ingredients, Panacea cks all the
boxes for purity and efficacy through its incredible synergisc acon
to combat the visible signs of skin ageing, bringing skincare results to
a new level. Panacea will: reduce the appearance of wrinkles, ghtens
the skin, reduce oxidave stress and reduce pigmentaon irregularies.
Results are nothing short of spectacular, with wrinkles size, depth
and width significantly reduced:
* 51% of wrinkles, * 56% of wrinkle surface, * 57% in wrinkle length.
Ref: 1. Instrumental test carried out on 20 women aged 45 to 70 – twice
daily applicaon morning and evening for 28 days.
Panacea La Crème is available in a refined, eco-designed, 100%
recyclable packaging made of FSC cerfied cardboard consisng of
more than 50% hemp fibre. The box does not have any glue points or
film coang, further improving the ability to recycle the packaging.
Panacea La Crème, Eye Contour formula is a hybrid texture between
gel and cream contains the flagship ingredients found in the cream,
enriched also with Annurca apple extract and a concentrate of acve
milk proteins. Laboratory tesng has confirmed the exceponal
response to the main problems associated with ageing of the delicate
*Wrinkles, *Saggy skin, *Dehydraon, *Puffiness and dark circles.
Rapid visible results include:
• 36% less visible wrinkles aer 15 minutes 1.
• 28% of dark circles and puffiness are soened, and the eye
contour is lied 2.
Ref: 1. Instrumental test - 20 women - 45 to 70 years - 15 min aer
the 1st applicaon. 2. Scoring - 20 women - 45 to 70 years - twice
daily applicaon - 28 days.
Research strongly confirms the growing number of consumers who are
priorising their cosmec and skincare choices with specific criteria,
which include not only results, but also environmental responsibility,
pure, clean, organic and safe formulaons to support the health and
appearance of their skin. The stascs are quite evident and astute
business owners are taking note. Phyt’s is considered a global leader
in quality, purity and efficacy in organic skincare. Their products will
support your business to address a variety of skincare needs for both
skin and body, men, and women. Their innovave formulaons are
beaufully present and ck all the boxes on what consumers are now
looking for. APJ
For further informaon contact Phyt’s - email@example.com 0416
143 537 or 1300 656 627 www.phyts.com.au
Complete age defying Soluon
Panacea, the first 100% natural and cerfied organic formulaon has been stepped-up to enter the
luxury high-performance market segment. Inspired by the unparalleled capacity for resilience of the
Edelweiss flower known for its extremophile powerful anoxidant.
Experience significant improvement in:
• Appearance of wrinkles
• Skin firming and ghtening
• Reducon of oxidave stress
• Reducon in pigmentaon and skin tone irregularies
Spectacular results in wrinkle improvement:
* 51% of wrinkles, * 56% of wrinkle surface, * 57% in wrinkle length.
Ref: 1. Instrumental test carried out on 20 women aged 45 to 70 – twice daily applicaon morning and evening for 28 days.
1300 143 537
0416 143 537
Seng a new standard in skin rejuvenaon
In pursuit of ‘flawless skin’ the new
‘minimum standard’ on social media, is
undoubtedly fuelling demand for skin
resurfacing treatments worldwide.
Although the vast majority know that
images of perfect, oen ‘poreless’ skin are
usually heavily filtered and that flawless
skin is extremely rare in real life, many are
sll happy to spend me and money in its
pursuit. CO2 laser treatments were
considered the best treatment opon for
people wanng to improve their skin’s
appearance, but due to the associated pain
and lengthy downme, increasing numbers
of consumers are choosing fraconal
resurfacing treatments like the Venus Viva.
This technology uses NanoFraconal Radio
Frequency (RF) with SmartScan technology
to repair mild to severe skin damage
without affecng the surrounding ssue.
However, the Viva stands out from other
RF devices because it is highly
customisable – the praconer has total
control of ablaon, coagulaon and
resurfacing to customise every single
treatment for opmal safety and efficacy.
This means praconers can dramacally
improve the appearance of skin
imperfecons (including acne scars, stretch
marks, rosacea, enlarged pores, wrinkles
and pigmentaon) for EVERY client in just
two to three treatments with minimal
discomfort and downme!
Venus Concept Australia educaon
manager Whitney Stronach says the Venus
Viva delivers dramac treatment
outcomes. Aesthec professionals know
no two skins are alike, but unfortunately,
many skin treatments sll can’t be safely customised.
“In the past, this has meant that many clinics were frustrated because they knew they could not
deliver the results that consumers were looking for, but thanks to the Viva, clinics can now offer
real hope, with a treatment that can step-up results, to all their clients,” Whitney said.
“In fact, according to Whitney, the Venus Viva is so customisable it can effecvely replace
all the other skin resurfacing devices in many clinics.
“From experience with our clinic partners, we know that the Venus Viva can outperform
any previous treatment result,” she said.
“Flawless skin may not be possible for everyone, but the Venus Viva can dramacally
improve the appearance of every skin. It is the only skin resurfacing system that most
aesthec clinics will ever need, Whitney said.”
The Venus Viva’s key features include:
Venus Viva MD applicator (for skin ablaon and resurfacing)
• Uses unique NanoFraconal RF technology with adjustable ablaon and coagulaon
parameters, to deliver radio frequency energy into the skin
Has two p opons for highly customised treatments: 80 pin p (up to 124 mJ/pin)
and 160 pin p (up to 62 mJ/pin).
• Uses unique algorithm and paern selecon technology that enables operator to
generate customised paerns for maximum flexibility and control.
• Enables ablaon and coagulaon of the epidermis and dermis zone in a fraconal
• Eliminates the need to use addional ps during treatments.
Diamondpolar Applicator With (Mp) Technology (for non-invasive wrinkle reducon)
• Uses proprietary (MP)2 technology, a combinaon of Mul-Polar Radio Frequency
(RF) and Pulsed Electro Magnec Fields (PEMF) to smulate fibroblasts, induces
fibroblast proliferaon and increase new collagen producon. APJ
For more informaon visit hps://www.venusconcept.com/en-au/venus-viva-md.htm
GLYCATION: A NEW UNDERSTANDING
AND EFFECTIVE TREATMENTS
IF YOU ARE COMMITED TO TREATING AGEING SKIN you will
most definitely be confronted with the dreaded skin condion
known as glycaon. For many years this condion was considered
to be the result of cross-linked collagen, however new research is
now uncovering that this is not the case. In this arcle JACINE
GREENWOOD-DRUMMOND is presenng compelling evidence
that is idenfying other reasons why glycaon occurs in the skin.
Skin glycaon impairs the epidermal barrier from repairing
properly, disassembling the dermal matrix, and causing an
inflammatory cascade. It has also been shown to be involved in
pigmentary changes, that are unrelated to melanin. We now know
that skin glycaon is not just about cross-linked collagen. In fact,
research is uncovering a new understanding of both the origin and
treatment opons for this condion.
THE NEW UNDERSTANDING OF GLYCATION
Glycaon was first described over 100 years ago. It entails a series
of simple and complex non-enzymac reacons. Advanced
glycaon end (AGE) products form when proteins, lipids, or nucleic
acids are covalently bound by sugar molecules such as glucose or
fructose, resulng in the inhibion of normal funcon of the
target molecules. Once glycated, these proteins are rendered
dysfunconal and undergo further structural rearrangements to
form dangerous advanced glycaon end products (AGEs) that
accumulate in the brain, kidney, arteries
and skin as we get older. This is evident in diabecs, whose
systemic complicaons are ed to abnormal AGE levels. This is
quite different from the normal process of glycosylaon, which
occurs as a normal part of skin funconing. Glycosylaon is an
enzyme-mediated ATP-dependent aachment of sugars to a
protein or lipid.
The RAGE receptor is a toll-like receptor, which is a key mediator
in the body’s response to bacteria or viruses, for example. The
AGEs glycated proteins, lipids or even nucleic acids form a group
of paerned ligands that can interact with RAGEs and iniate
cellular signaling programs that include acvaon of NF-ĸB, a
major inflammatory agent suspected in ageing. Unlike binding
directly to a long-lived protein such as collagen or elasn, these
soluble AGEs act as ligands on RAGEs and smulate the
inflammatory process. RAGEs can sustain cellular acvaon and
convert short-lasng pro-inflammatory responses into long-lasng
WHERE IS AGE FOUND?
The most prevalent AGE in the human body, including the skin, is
carboxymethyl-lysine (CML), which is formed by oxidave
degeneraon of Amadori products or by direct addion of glyoxal
to lysine. In the skin, CML is found in the normal epidermis, aged
and diabec dermis, and photoageing-acnic elastosis. Other
AGEs detected in skin include pentosidine, glyoxal, methylglyoxal,
glucosepane, fructoselysine, carboxyethyl-lysine, glyoxal-lysine
dimer, and methylglyoxal-lysine dimer. When excess sugar, such as
fructose or glucose, floats around the bloodstream, it has a
propensity for binding to funconal proteins through a chemical
process called glycaon.
Newer research has shown that glycaon not only affects collagen
and elasn, but also plays a role in the formaon of pigment. In a
study by Lee et al (2016) it was shown for the first me the
existence of receptors for AGE (RAGE) were located in
melanocytes. These receptors are called receptor-advanced
glycaon end products (RAGE).
The presence of advanced glycaon end products (AGEs) has been
shown to acvate these receptors, with a subsequent increase in
tyrosinase and MITF expression. Tyrosinase is the enzyme
responsible for the second step in pigmentaon producon. MITF
is the master regulator for three primary enzymes responsible for
Glycaon could also be responsible for the pigment associated
with photoageing as well, with studies showing increased
secreon of AGEs from keranocytes following UV irradiaon.
High levels of AGEs likewise may impair dermal regeneraon,
reducing collagen solubility due to intermolecular crosslinking and
matrix metalloproteinase resistance. However, aside from the
known contribuon of AGEs to the wrinkling of ageing skin, the
interrelaonship of AGEs and melanocytes has not been
MELANOGENESIS AND AGEs
In the study by Lee et al (2016), the expression of melanogenesis
from RAGE was invesgated. Before performing experiments on
the effect of AGEs on melanogenesis they invesgated whether
melanocytes express RAGE, the known receptor for AGEs.
In the study, a commercially available mixture of
Nε-(carboxymethyl)-lysine, pentosidine, and others was used
for seeing the effects of AGEs on melanogenesis in ex vivo skin
organ culture and in vitro melanocyte culture. Incubaon with
AGEs at the concentraon of 200 μg/ml showed no detrimental
effect on cell viability and did not show any increase in ROS and
proinflammatory cytokines such as IL-6 and TNF-α. In addion,
AGEs appeared to have no direct stress effect on melanocytes
when phosphorylated p38 expression was checked. However,
AGEs did heighten melanin producon, tyrosinase acvity, and the
expression of melanogenesis-associated molecules including MITF
and tyrosinase. Addionally, secons of cultured human skin (by
Fontana-Masson stain) showed proporonately higher melanin
pigmentaon aer AGEs exposure, based on raos of pigmented
epidermal areas to total epidermal areas.
During the study AGE-mediated melanogenesis was explored in ex
vivo experiments using human skin. AGEs (200 μg/ml) were
delivered twice (day 1 and 3) over a period of five days to an organ
culture system which ulised remnants of breast skin from plasc
As a result, increased melanin content was demonstrated (via
Fontana-Masson staining) in skin cultures five days aer AGE
exposure. In AGE-exposed human skin (vs. non-exposed controls),
the rao of pigmented epidermal area to total epidermal areas was
significantly greater. However, there was no difference in the
number of epidermal melanocytes between both control and
AGEs-delivered ssues. Taken together, these results indicate that
AGEs have a smulatory effect on pigmentaon without
increasing number of epidermal melanocytes.
As cells were exposed to AGEs, expression levels of
microphthalmia-associated transcripon factor (MITF) and
tyrosinase, the melanogenesis-associated molecules, were
increased. In addion, tyrosinase enzymac acvity rose
significantly upon incubaon with AGEs, along with a significant
increase in melanin content (~17%) compared to control cells. To
see the effect of long incubaon of AGEs on melanogenesis, we
treated AGEs on melanin cells for two weeks. Two weekincubaon
of AGEs augmented more melanin contents (~23.9%) in
comparison to four day-incubaon.
Lee et al (2016) also invesgated the contribuon of AGEs-RAGE
to pigmentaon as an alternate mechanism of pigmentaon
signaling other than MC1R-mediated pathway and further sought
to observe the implicaon of AGEs-RAGE pathway in UV-induced
pigmentaon. Through their experiments, they were able to
idenfy the expression of RAGE in melanocytes and the role of
AGEs in melanogenesis. Consequently, increased secreon and
producon of AGEs were observed from keranocytes following
UV irradiaon. These two end products have been found to
interfere with biochemical substances and reacons, one in
parcular, with DNA. Both glyoxal and methylglyoxal damage
DNA in intact cells; glyoxal is able to produce DNA strand breaks,
while methylglyoxal is responsible for DNA protein cross-linking
that results in nuclear condensaon and the inacvaon of some
secons of DNA.
GLYCATION AND COOKING METHODS
One of the most under-acknowledged methods of managing
glycaon is food and the way it is cooked. Studies have shown
that consumpon of AGEs is not only ed to the sugar content of
food, but is also affected by the method of cooking. A host of
dietary compounds have surfaced as potenal therapeuc
candidates in the inhibion of AGE-mediated changes.
70 years ago, it was discovered that there was a correlaon
between the level of sugar in the blood and the skin, and that a
diet high in sugar led to a subsequent decline in both skin and
blood. The process of heang and cooking food is now also
understood to result in the development of advanced glycaon
end products. These preformed AGEs have a 30% efficacy of
being absorbed by the gut and entering the circulaon, where they
induce protein cross-linking, inflammaon, and intracellular
Grilling, frying, deep fat frying, and roasng methods are all
known to produce higher levels of AGEs in food. In contrast,
methods of preparaon that are water-based, such as boiling and
steaming, produce a logarithmically lower number of AGEs.
Water-based cooking methods are the primary method of cooking
for Asians. A diet low in AGEs correlated with a reducon in
inflammatory biomarkers (i.e., tumor necrosis factor-alpha,
interleukin-6, and C-reacve protein) in diabec human paents,
as well as an improvement in wound healing and other diabetesassociated
sequelae in mice.
HERBS THAT INHIBIT THE PRODUCTION OF AGEs
Several herbs and spices have been shown to be capable of
inhibing the producon of AGEs. These include cinnamon,
cloves, oregano, and allspice. Other dietary compounds that have
been linked to inhibion of AGE formaon based on in vitro data
and preliminary animal models include ginger, garlic, α-lipoic acid,
carnine, taurine, carnosine, flavonoids (e.g., green tea catechins),
benfoamine (lab made thiamine), α-tocopherol, niacinamide,
pyridoxal, sodium selenite, selenium yeast, riboflavin, zinc and
manganese. The cosmeceucal industry has taken noce of this
data and several have recently released topical products
containing carnosine and α-lipoic acid, with claims related to an-
In one of the few human studies successfully conducted on
anAGE therapeucs, L-carnine supplementaon for six months
in hemodialysis paents significantly decreased levels of AGEs in
the skin. L-carnine, which is naturally abundant in meat, poultry,
fish, and dairy products, is an anoxidant. Furthermore, it may
funcon synergiscally to neutralise oxidave stress when given
with α-lipoic acid.
THE EFFECTS GLYCATION HAS ON THE SKIN’S APPEARANCE
A variety of cutaneous cells including fibroblasts, keranocytes
and melanosomes produce AGEs. Advanced glycaon end
products that are released from these cells affect fibronecn,
laminin, collagen, elasn and melanin producon. The AGEs seen
in the skin that are responsible take the form of N6-
(carboxymethyl)-lysine (CML), pyrraline, pentosidine, or other
molecules as consequences of ageing and acnic damage.
The dermis, which provides strength and resiliency to skin,
consists primarily of an extracellular matrix that has a high
quanty of the protein collagen, parcularly types I and III. Due to
its slow turnover rate and exposure to elevated glucose levels
outside of cells, collagen falls vicm to glycaon and AGE
formaon. Proteins in the dermal matrix and cytoskeleton are
parcularly suscepble to glycaon, resulng in ssue sffening
and reduced elascity.
The result is extensive cross-linking of collagen molecules, turning
them from tough and flexible to brile and sff. This decreases
the skin’s elascity and sets the stage for the development of
wrinkles and sagging skin. Glycaon has been shown to prevent
the binding of collagen type 1 to keranocytes and reduces the
migratory ability of keranocytes in the epidermis. This has an
impact on wound healing and can present clinically as skin ulcers
and delayed skin healing. This process of uncontrolled glycaon
also reduces the cell’s ability to generate nitric oxide from L-
arginine, which is required for proper cross-linking of collagen
fibers, and inacvates proteins responsible for collagen and elasn
repair. Clinically, this results in lower skin tensile strength, as seen
in the aged skin of older individuals.
Glycaon also has been connected to the accelerated ageing of
keranocytes. For instance, placing keranocytes in ssue culture
with a soluon of glucose at 100 mM, or glyoxal at 0. 1 mM, will
change the biological characterisc of the cells in three days from
young keranocytes to old, late-passage keranocytes that show
signs of slowing down, nearing death and unable to divide. This is
significant because it indicates that a poor diet, high in sugars, can
markedly speed up the ageing process. These are but a few of the
adverse effects of glycaon on skin.
Once the skins collagen is glycated it is highly resistant to repair
mechanisms, which allows it to accumulate and impair the
structural integrity of the dermis. It has been shown to cause the
collapse of specialised cells known as fibroblasts that produce and
organise collagen fibers. This strongly influences collagen
homeostasis and subsequently leads to less collagen producon
and more breakdown in the skin. To make maers worse,
ultraviolet (UV) exposure and AGE formaon itself generate free
radicals that further exacerbate this problem by increasing acvity
of the collagen-degrading enzyme matrix metalloproteinase-1
GLYCATION AND WOUND HEALING
Advanced Glycaon End Products have also been shown to
influence wound healing. In the presence of AGEs keranocytes
lose their migratory and proliferave abilies. Paents who have
type 2 diabetes have been shown to have impaired stratum
corneum hydraon and barrier disfuncon. With a decrease in
epidermal lipids and ceramides being produced, as well as
decreased anmicrobial pepdes. Advanced Glycaon End
products play a role in this barrier dysfuncon. Increased blood
glucose levels lead to serum increases of AGEs and Epidermal
RAGE. This leads to a decreased in keranocyte proliferaon,
weakened stratum corneum integrity, delayed barrier recovery,
decreased epidermal lipid synthesis, decreased lamellar body
synthesis, decreased stratum corneum lipids and anmicrobial
pepdes (hBD 2 and 3 and LL-37). The result being a skin barrier
that is not funconing adequately with reduced ability to defend
off microbes, leaving it vulnerable for bacterial or microbial
AGEs markedly increase in diabetes, due to a higher glycolyc
rate, and sele on the elasc network. They arise from dicarbonyl
precursors, among which methylglyoxal can be found. Among the
other markers studied for their sensivity to glycaon, it was
shown that fibrillin-1, a glycoprotein associated with oxytalan
fibres is highly sensive to glycaon.
In a study by Gasser et al (2011) it was highlighted that fibrillin-1 is
the parameter most sensive to glycaon, and that its alteraon is
inversely correlated to the apparion of carboxymethyl)-lysine
(CML) and pentosidine.
It was determined that glycaon can be induced in just a few days
by methylglyoxal (a reference glycant agent). Aminoguanidine
hydrochloride, the reference inhibitor of glycaon was added in
the culture medium and its efficacy regarding methylglyoxalinduced
glycaon was assessed. Once this model was validated,
the efficacy of topically applied formulas containing
aminoguanidine HCl or other potenal an- ingredients against
methylglyoxal-induced glycaon were able to be studied.
COSMETIC ACTIVES THAT TREAT GLYCATION
When we had limited understanding of what caused glycaon, it
was difficult to know how to treat it. However, on-going studies
are revealing the benefits of certain cosmec acves that can
support and treat glycaon. Here are just a few.
Olive Leaf Extract
Olive leaf extracts have a unique composion, with the leaves
containing a high number of anoxidants, esters and flavonoids.
Among the major phenolic components (luteolin, hydroxytyrosol,
and oleuropein), luteolin and luteolin-40-O-b-D-glucopyranoside
were assigned as potent inhibitors of AGE formaon.
It cannot be stressed highly enough that the extracon procedure
greatly affects the composion and therefore the an-glycaon
potenal of olive leaves. In a study they invesgated the in vitro
an-glycaon profile of both an aqueous as well as methanol olive
leaf extracts. The chemical composion was determined using
The methanolic olive leaf extract inhibited fluorescent AGE
formaon in BSA-ribose system, whereas the aqueous extract had
no effect in both BSA-fructose and BSA-ribose systems.
The results demonstrate that the methanolic olive leaf extract
inhibited fluorescent AGE formaon in BSA-ribose system,
whereas the normal extracon had no effect. The inhibitory
potenal on AGE formaon is aributed to the presence of
luteolin and luteolin-40 -O-b-D-glucopyranoside in high
Blueberries have long been known for remarkable aninflammatory
and free-radical fighng properes, which can be
credited to their wealth of phenolic compounds known as
anthocyanins. By combang free radicals and reducing the release
of proinflammatory cytokines, blueberries can safely break the
self-perpetuang cycle of AGEs and oxidave stress that underlies
intrinsic skin ageing.
When researchers tested the an-glycaon acvity of various
fruits, blueberries ranked one of the highest. In addion,
blueberries protect against collagen breakdown by inhibing
matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) as a response to UV light.
In human studies, blueberry extracts have been shown to improve
the undesirable skin changes that accompany ageing. In a study of
20 diabec females older than 55 years with elevated skin AGEs, a
topical preparaon containing blueberry extract significantly
improved skin tone and smoothness, fine lines, crepiness and
firmness aer 12 weeks with excellent tolerability. Although no
changes in skin AGEs was observed, researchers believe that a
study with a longer duraon might have produced a different
In another clinical trial, six weeks of supplementaon with an oral
mixture containing blueberry extract in 62 women aged 45-73
significantly increased skin elascity by 9% over a placebo, and
aer 12 weeks significantly decreased skin roughness by 6%
compared to the control group.
Mangosteen (Garcinia mangostana ) fruit has a unique sweet-sour
taste and is rich in beneficial compounds such as xanthones.
Xanthone is one of the compound classes that are prevalent in
mangosteen. So far, there are more than 68 xanthones isolated
from the mangosteen fruit with the majority of them being c-
These xanthones were also implicated in various pharmaceucal
properes but more studies are needed to verify their
effecveness in human applicaons. Using High Pressure Liquid
Chromatography (HPLC), Muchtaridi et al. (2017) measured the
level of a-mangosn, c-mangosn,and gartanin from different
regions of Indonesia which suggest their levels can be dependent
upon localies. This is interesng as xanthones may be extracted
differently in different laboratories around the world, given that
published manuscripts related to mangosteen and xanthone
extracon have originated from not just South-East Asian
countries, but also from United States, Japan, China, and United
In a study examining the efficacy of mangostana in prevenng and
inhibing advanced glycaon end products. G. mangostana was
evaluated for its inhibitory effects against two monosaccharidemediated
protein glycaon reacons and oxidave damage of
BSA. G. mangostana markedly inhibited protein glycaon and
oxidave damage in BSA induced by glucose and ribose. The
isolated bioacve compounds that belong to the flavonoid and
benzophenone classes of compounds decreased the formaon of
fluorescent, non-fluorescent AGEs and fructosamine associated
with the reducon of protein aggregaon and protein carbonyl
content. They also prevented the loss of protein thiol groups. An-
AGEs formaon acvity could be due to inhibion of radical chain
reacons by their radical scavenging acvity. Given the ability of
G. mangostana to inhibit glycaon reacons with
monosaccharides, we conclude that the use of GMT will prevent
accumulaon of AGEs.
Glycaon plays a role in many skin condions. To effecvely
manage these, an-glycaon acves may need to be considered in
the formulaon of these products. The treatment of pigmentaon
has been shown to be influenced by advanced glycaon end
products, and yet many products on the market do not have
acves that have an-glycaon properes. Slow healing wounds
may also be in part to the acvity of glycated end products in the
skin. To successfully treat skin condions including pigmentaon,
ageing and slow healing wounds, an-glycaon acves will
become a crucial part of managing these condions. APJ
AND FEMALE SKIN?
Professor Terry Everi
SKIN IS SKIN SOME SAY, and of course, they are correct. In terms
of male and female skin, it is said that there are considerable
differences, primarily resulng from genec and difference in the
metabolism of sex hormones and response to them.
Men's and women's skins differ in hormone metabolism, hair
growth, sweat rate, sebum producon, surface pH, fat
accumulaon, among other differences (Giacomoni et al., 2009).
seen in photo-aged females. This does change in later years, where
males photodamage may become more pronounced.
As a generalisaon, Rahrovan et al. (2018) found sex-related
differences in anatomy, physiology, epidemiology and several
disease manifestaons. Concerning skin disorders, infecous
diseases are presented more in men, but psychosomac problems,
pigmentary disorders, certain hair diseases, and autoimmune and
allergic diseases are more common in women.
However, even with these consideraons, not all skin of the same
gender is the same and this is one of the primary challenges that
all skin professionals need to consider.
Male skin is indeed thicker than female skin, partly due to the
presence of course and pigmented terminal hair over much of the
body and, in parcular, the face, contrasng with the fine and
colourless vellus hair of females (Sandby-Moller, Poulsen, & Wulf,
Bailey et al. (2012) found that men had an overall 10-20% thicker
skin than women, with Firooz et al. (2017) showing similar results
and idenfied that epidermal thickness thins with age on some
body sites, such as cheek, palm and dorsum of the foot remains
constant on other areas, such as neck and sole. This variaon is
not accounted for by sun or environmental or hormonal status
among groups (p. 18).
Thicker skin resists some UVA damages, but different genders of
the same age do not exhibit the pronounced redundant facial skin
Skin thickness (ųm) Bailey et al. 2012)
The dermis contains water, ground substance and elasc fibres
contribung to its thickness. Men's skin is thicker at all ages, yet
the extent of the difference varies with the anatomical region. On
the forearm, it has been reported to be of the order of 20%
(Shuster, Black & McVie, 1975).
Aer menopause, women's skin is 10% thinner than before
menopause. Skin thickness decreases in men and women, starng
at the age of 45. Other authors report that skin thickness
decreases linearly with age in men beginning at the age of 20,
whereas it seems to remain constant in women unl the age of 50
or so, and then starts decreasing (Luebberding et al., 2013). These
changes might affect the elascity, defined as the proporonality
factor between the intensity of the stress applied to the skin and
Topical oestrogen applicaon is reported to increase skin
thickness by nearly 10% compared with less than 5% for the
placebo group. The observaon supports that ovariectomy is
associated with thinning of the skin, whereas oestrogen therapy
thickens skin (Alexander & Cook, 2006).
Loss of collagen has been associated with the occurrence of skin
thinning post-menopause. Two separate studies demonstrated
that collagen content increased 34-48% following hormone
treatment than non-treated subjects (Brincat, Moniz & Studdi,
The pH of the skin has been measured at mulple different sites in
men and women with varying results regarding gender differences,
so studies are conflicng on this parameter, with most appearing
to find males skin with lower acidity measures however by how
much varies greatly (Kim et al. 2006; Luebberding et al.2013).
Studies show significant difference yet not changing by much,
such as 6.40 male versus female 6.10 (Fox et al.,1998); 5.80 male
versus female 5.54 (Ehlers et al.,2001).
Overall, women had higher pH values than men. The pH of men
was significantly lower than that of women and generally
increased with age, whereas women's pH generally decreased with
age (Luebberding et al., 2013; Youn et al., 2013).
This minor yet relevant difference is thought to result from the
increased Free Fay Acids from the sebaceous gland lipases. The
eccrine gland derived lacc acid, increasing the acidificaon
of the skin's pH. Yet, there remains no consensus on how age and
gender affect skin surface pH.
TRANSEPIDERMAL WATER LOSS
In general, and regardless of age, men showed significantly lower
TEWL than women unl around 40. In most sites, water loss was
stable or increased over subjects' lifeme in both sexes. However,
the difference in evaporimetry results in male skin progressively
dehydrates with age at all localisaons except for the forearm
(Luebberding et al., 2013, p. 483).
Men have been reported to have higher sebum producon and
larger pore size. Since 1974, it has been known that Caucasian
men have been reported to have an average of 3 mg of sebum per
square cenmetre of the skin surface as opposed to Caucasian
women having 0.7 mg/cm2 (Pochi & Strauss, 1974).
More recent studies found higher sebum levels in male subjects in
different parts of the face, except for the forehead, where female
subjects had higher sebum levels, yet progressively decreased in
women over their lifeme (Man et al., 2009; Bailey et al., 2012;
Luebberding et al., 2013).
We know that the skin's sebum content is mainly influenced by
androgens, such as testosterone and dehydroepiandrosterone. In
contrast, oestrogens exert the opposite effect through the
downregulaon of sebaceous gland funcon.
For this reason, acne is typically more severe and longer lasng in
males than in females, with a preference for the face, chest and
back. Since testosterone is present throughout life in men, sebum
producon also remains high. This sebum producon
provides skin moisturisaon resulng in fewer wrinkles in males
unl much later years.
Age affects sebum secreon differently at different anatomical
sites in males and females, but data indicate higher sebum content
in males than females.
Studies from Iran, India and Australia have demonstrated women
have lighter skin, yet in general, both sexes darken with increasing
age. (Mehrai, & Sunderland, 1990; Banerjee, 1984; Green, &
Differences in melanin, haemoglobin, carotene, hormonal
influence, and environmental sun exposure may all be involved.
No gender-linked difference has been reported for melanocyte
Men appear to undergo a more facultave pigmentaon aer sun
exposure. Addionally, it seems they have a longer me with it
before dispersal. Facial hair of males provides more of a
complexion darkening, along with increased upper recular dermal
vascularisaon. Radiance and glow are the consequence of surface
homogeneity and can be improved by mild exfoliaon.
Men have greater sweat rates than women, which is true across all
age ranges and stages of sexual maturity (Gagnon, Crandall, &
Mean body temperature increased, men exhibited more significant
sweat and sweat gland output than women, while the number of
acve sweat glands was similar (Green et al., 2000).
Results suggest that sex differences in sweang result from lower
maximum sweang capacity of female sweat glands and not a
difference in cholinergic sensivity of the sweat gland.
The difference in skin blood flow between men and women is
hormone-dependent, while both genders have the same capillary
structure and volumes. Females have a thinner epidermis than
men; this difference may be responsible for the vascular
structures' visual appearance.
We do know that for women, the phase of the menstrual cycle
varies the blood flow considerably.
Basal blood flow was lowest in the luteal phase and highest in the
preovulatory stage. Compared to the other phases of the
menstrual cycle, it is demonstrated that finger skin perfusion had
the greatest cold-induced constricon during the luteal phase and
the most negligible recovery following (Bartelink, Ollersheim,
One elegant study via laser Doppler imagery following
iontophoresis of acetylcholine (an endothelium-dependent
vasodilator) showed that premenopausal women had more
significant response acetylcholine than postmenopausal women,
reflecng a change in skin vasculature with ageing (Algotsson,
Nordberg, & Winblad, 1995).
Similar results are generally reported for some parameters, such as
sebum being higher in males - influenced by sex hormones. It is
found that skin thickness and pigmentaon are higher in males,
yet not much difference in skin electricity.
Other parameters provide confusing and conflicng results, which
may be more the differences in measuring devices and sites, study
design or genec contribuons.
One major problem with interpreng the findings in studies of
gendered skin differences is that there is no systemac approach
to determining gendered skin's pathophysiology. Study design and
size, instrumentaon, vivo or invitro, hormonal factors - all change
the interindividual and intraindividual variability, making it difficult
to come to a defining conclusion.
Notwithstanding, the difficulty in understanding gender-linked
differences in skin physiology can help improve cosmec
treatments for specific gendered an-ageing care via prevenon,
repair and protecon, and achieve skin smoothness, clarity and
Line-field confocal opcal coherence tomography (LC-OCT) is a
non-invasive opcal technique recently developed for skin
examinaon in vivo. It provides real-me, high-resoluon vercal
images with an isotropic resoluon of ~1 µm and a penetraon
depth of ~500 µm Line-held confocal opcal coherence
tomography (LC-OCT) is a non-invasive opcal technique recently
developed for skin examinaon in vivo. It provides real-me, highresoluon
vercal images with an isotropic resoluon of ~1 µm
and a penetraon depth of ~500 µm.
While most of the references cited are, in the primary, original
papers that reported the finding, we know so well that more
recent findings are 'fine-tuning' details, and much more is to come
with more advanced technology.
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
INVITATION TO ATTEND
THE 10 TH ANNIVERSARY
OF THE NSS
GOLD COAST CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION
CENTRE AND VIRTUAL
Join us on the sunny Gold Coast for 3 days of world-class
educational content and 2 incredible social events.
• Advanced uses of toxins and fillers
• Periorbital rejuvenation
• Lower face and jawline rejuvenation
• Ethnic difference
• Complex cases from my Practice and how to approach them safely
• Photography, bias and ageing
• Beauty vs attractiveness - differentiated treatment approaches
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EDELWEISS – Defying
resilience for survival
IT WAS THE END OF 1965 WHEN THE WORLD was first
introduced to the heart-warming story of the Von Trapp Family,
one of the world’s best-known concert groups in the era
immediately preceding World War II through the incredible movie
known as The Sound of Music. While inially doubul as to how
well it would be received, it became the number one movie at the
box office and within a year and a half, it had replaced Gone With
The Wind as the highest-grossing film of all me. It was also the
first to earn more than $100 million at the box office.
One of the movie’s highlights was the beauful song Edelweiss.
This amazing flower with its resilience and determinaon to
survive during perilous mes, was the perfect symbol of the
struggles the Von Trapp family endured as they were challenged
and refused to betray their Austrian heritage and submit to the
invasion of Nazi Germany and the dictatorship of Hitler and the
Considered the queen of alpine flora, the Edelweiss, which grows
high in the Alps is also regarded in Switzerland at the naonal
symbol. Through the decades, this humble lile flower has
fascinated poets, songwriters, and sciensts about its incredible
power to overcome adversity and its unique combinaon of
chemical compounds. Celebrated as an icon of courage and
bravery, its beauty and strength have fuelled a living legend that
says that men who needed to show their love had to venture into
the treacherous high peaks to find an edelweiss flower to take to
UPDATES ON THE EDELWEISS
The edelweiss is a species that belongs to the Asteraceae family
and its botanical name is Leontopodium alpinum. Its apparent
fragility hides an incredible resilient flower, which is able to
survive at heights of more than 3000 metres and withstand the
extreme temperatures of alpine mountains. It only grows naturally
at heights over 1500 metres on limestone walls and slopes, or on
rocks on terrains that are considered the most barren and hosle
in the world subjected to extremely cold weather and ferocious
winds, while also scorching hot summers with lile protecon, as a
result of the high altudes and lack of nearby vegetaon.
The edelweiss grows up to 30cm tall and has thick and fleshy
bracts, covered with a fine fluff. It is white in colour with greenish
or yellowish tones. It hides under the appearance of a single
flower (between 1.5-10cm in size), but in reality, it consists of a set
of ny flowers that have evolved and grow as a group to survive.
The central yellow elements are capitula, where both male and
female flowers are grouped; and what appears to be white flowers
are bracts structures that protect it during its development. A
vegetable fibre protects it from frost and ultraviolet radiaons.
The edelweiss blossoms between July and September and its
leaves can be white, grey or slightly yellow. It originates from the
area of the Austrian and Swiss Alps, and is nave to the European
mountain regions, however, its habitat extends from the
Carpathians to the Pyrenees, but it can also be found in some very
high mountain rangers in Asia, such as the Himalayas.
The edelweiss aerial parts contain leontopodic acid, typical of
edelweiss and one of its most abundant components (Schwaiger,
S. et al, 2005), and a large amount of chlorogenic acid. It has
flavonoids (luteolin and its derivaves, traces of apigenin and its
glucoside derivaves), tannins, phenolic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic
acid, terpenes, bisabolene derivaves, phenylpropanoids and
sitosterol (Dweck, A.C., 2004: Schwaiger, S.et la, 2006).
Edelweiss is mostly used in cosmecs, due to its mulple benefits
from its chemical constuents. Their unique composion assists
the skin to slow down the effects of ageing. It has anoxidant,
an-inflammatory, relaxing and purifying properes, and can
protect the skin from solar radiaon (it absorbs UV rays).
In essence the edelweiss offers three key skin benefits. These are
– anoxidant, an-inflammatory and an-bacterial acvies.
Here are further details:
Anoxidant acvity: The anoxidant acvity of edelweiss and its
components has been confirmed in several studies. Leontopodic
acid is a novel highly substuted glucaric acid derivave from
edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum Cass.) and its anoxidave and
DNA protecng properes. The word leontopodium comes from
the Greek leon lion + podion, meaning lion’s paws (from the shape
of the flowers).
Leontopodic acid is well studied confirming its anoxidant
properes. Especially the aerial part of the edelweiss which has in
vitro protecve effects against induced oxidave reacons. The
results from a study by Costa, S. et al (2009) showed that this
compound protects cells against the consequences of exposure to
toxic agents, with an anoxidant effect. However, there are
numerous other studies that also support this.
Other studies also confirmed the anoxidant effecveness of
chlorogenic acid, a compound present in the flower. Bouayed, J.
et al (2007) verified that in vitro, this acid protected granulocytes
from induced oxidave stress. In 2009, A.R. et al also observed
the anoxidant capacity of a phenolic factor containing
chlorogenic acid, protects the DNA from in vivo induced oxidave
An-inflammatory acvity: In tradional medicine, edelweiss has
been used as an an-inflammatory for years, and for this reason in
2004 Dobner, M.J. et al wanted to verify its an-inflammatory
acvity. In his study, the an-oedema of the aerial parts of the
plant were analysed when applied topically on an induced
dermas. Results showed an important reducon of oedema,
which confirmed the an-inflammatory acvity of edelweiss and
its components. Further studies also came to the same
Anbacterial acvity: The anbacterial and purifying acvity of
edelweiss and its components was analysed by Dobneer, M.J. et al
(2003). The results showed inhibitory concentraons against
various Staphylococcus aureus, Enterococcus faecium, Escherichia
coli, Pseudomanas aeruginosa, Streptococcus pneumoniae and
Streptococcus pyogenes. Therefore, Edelweiss is very useful to
cosmec formulaons for its purifying and anbacterial acvies.
The analysed parameters through various studies clearly show that
leontopodic acid directly reduces the producon of reacve
oxygen species, increased cell viability and intensifies the acon of
glutathione peroxidase, an enzyme that helps reduce the
concentraon of ROS. In consequence it is confirmed that
edelweiss, due to its significant leontopodic acid content, is highly
useful for cosmec products for its anoxidant and an-ageing
acvies, both for face and body. It is also suitable for photoprotecve
ACTION ACTIVE INGREDIENT COSMETIC APPLICATION
Protecve of hair colouraon
An-inflammatory Extract An-Oedema
Soothing and calming
An-bacterial Extract Purifying
DURING COLD WINTER MONTHS the skin oen suffers from
dehydraon, not to menon skin irritaon from the frequent use
of facial masks that we are required to wear. So Roccoco have
come to the rescue with the launched of their ROCCOCO JELLY
MASKS in three amazing variees that will deliver instant
ROCCOCO JELL MASKS are infused with berries, cherries, and
fresh herbs such as chamomile and calendula. The jells also
contain real petals and seeds for a stunning visual display, while
delivering instant and intense hydraon and an incredible and
memorable sensorial experience that your clients will absolutely
HOW THEY WORK
Rich in vitamins, essenal fay acids, and anoxidants, Roccoco’s
advanced translucent jelly masks also combine sucrose and
alginates to provide incredible hydrang results that will last for
days. Forming a vacuum on the skin through a thin but strong
transparent film the masks enhance the delivery of serums into
the skin, sealing in the acves and increasing the hydraon levels
of the epidermis. Sucrose not only enhances hydraon levels it
also delivers instant soness leaving the skin feeling and looking
Rich in sugar molecules and containing the strongest superior
jelling alginate available, these masks are applied super thinly, yet
have the strongest hold for a jelly mask, being able to be removed
in one single piece - no more messy and uncomfortable mask
Jelly Masks are also suitable to be applied over the eyes and
mouth if required, especially if the eye area needs brightening or
the lips are dry. These transparent jelly masks will increase
hydraon of the skin by a massive 140%, both instantly and for
days aer the treatment. As moisture is bound into the skin, it will
also increase skin elascity minimising the appearance of lines and
wrinkles and leaving the skin refreshed and revitalised.
Roccoco Jelly Masks only required to be applied super thinly with
just 50 grams of powder needed compared to the standard 75
grams for other alginate jelly masks to get the same result, making
them fantasc value for money.
Available in 3 opons:
2. Forest Fruits
3. Acerola Cherry
Calendula Mask also contains Chamomile and Cornflower
providing soothing and an-inflammatory benefits for sensive
and inflamed skins and is also suitable for rosacea and inflamed
acne skin condions. This mask will soothe and reduce redness,
refining pores, while scars will appear less visible.
Forest Fruits Mask is rich in vitamins, essenal fay acids, and
anoxidants. It contains raspberry, cranberry, and strawberry
(with visible strawberry seeds). This ultra-hydrang mask
alleviates dull and red complexions. Cranberries naturally rich in
salicylic acid, detoxifies the skin and smooth irregularies of the
skin. This mask is perfect for skins exposed to highly polluted
areas, due to its detoxificaon properes.
Acerola Cherry Jelly Mask is rich in acerola pulp, a nave fruit to
South America. Renowned as one of the richest sources of
vitamin C as well as high in carotenoids - a vitamin A, precursor.
The mask is also rich in bioflavonoids, niacin and anoxidants that
will revitalise dull and aged skin and brightens the complexion,
while lightening the appearance of pigmentaon.
The ROCCOCO JELL MASKS contain over 30 different acve
compounds in herbs, including caffeic acid, chlorogenic acid and
run. They do not contain any phthalates or parabens. These
vegan jelly masks are the perfect finish to any skin treatment. APJ
For these and other leading ROCCOCO BOTANICAL SKINCARE
contact 07 3807 1429 www.roccoco.com
SOCIAL MEDIA DURING
ISN’T IT INCREDIBLE how much social media has influenced our
lives? It’s also incredible how this crazy pandemic has influenced
our lives. It has certainly made it clear that nobody is immune to
this huge aack that has affected many industries, including
aesthec businesses with the constant change and an almost
insecure future. It seems that we are constantly in transion from
one crisis to another.
I am sing here thinking to myself on how we can keep the lines
of communicaon open with our clients, our friends, and the
things that maer to us, especially while we are locked up and
unsure as to how long it will be, or if it will ever be any different.
WHAT CAN YOUR BUSINESS DO WHEN IT IS LOCKED
It doesn’t get any easier when we get locked down. The
uncertainty and unsurety can be emoonally draining and can
leave you in a state of “what the heck do we do now?”
We recently posted on social media what I think is the best quote,
and it keeps coming to my mind with a tune to a song… “I GET
LOCKED UP, BUT I GET UP AGAIN, AIN’T NOTHING GONNA BRING
So, what can we do? How can we keep in touch? How do we
remain sensive to people's individual circumstances?
Well, there are a few ways you can use social media during a
pandemic. Always remember that people will forget what you did,
but they will never forget how you made them feel, and we all
know how we feel is so important now. Here are a few points to
help you along:
• Get involved in the conversaon as soon as it begins.
• Make sure you are following news updates and parcipang in
the communies engaged by those who are managing the
• Use social media as an opportunity to promote your own
business or product. There will always be people who need
products and services during a crisis, and these people should
have access to it sooner rather than later.
• Time to think about the “How-To” videos, or the “At-Home”
packs. If you’re not already, maybe it’s a great opportunity to
start phone or zoom appointments.
Now’s the me to KEEP IN TOUCH! Social Media has an
unbelievable impact on people’s interacons, habits, and their
lifestyle. Never doubt the power and benefits of social media. In
these difficult mes there are many people who only have social
media as their mode of communicaon with the outside world,
while they are locked down or unable to do the things that make
their heart sing.
SOCIAL MEDIA IN BUSINESS
Social Media in business is really about connecng with exisng
and potenal clients. It’s about becoming an expert in your niche.
Here are three WHYs that will help you to leverage markeng
potenal in your business with social media:
• Helps Build Your Brand
• Reach your Target Audience
• Geng Conversions
HOW TO STAY AWAY FROM THE FAKE NEWS
What relevant informaon should you share with others? What's
the best medium for communicang with others? There are social
media channels that can help provide answers to quesons and
lend credibility to statements made elsewhere. Make sure you are
following the official social media accounts of the Australian Govt
related to COVID. Watch news, read arcles, follow pages, read
the tweets, and be responsible for sharing things based on facts. It
has become very important to stay up to date with the latest
updates from the world of healthcare, commerce, and educaon
because these are directly related to our own personal wellbeing
KEEP YOUR CLIENTS INFORMED
Make it easy for clients to work with you during a pandemic by
staying in touch using your social media. Keep it real. Keep it
personal. Authencity is key in these mes. If you are closed, is
the phone being answered by a person, not a voice message?
Keep an eye on what your clients are up to and stay up-to-date
with what they need, this is how you establish trust and credibility
with your clients.
Understanding how social media works during a pandemic can
also help you figure out what messages would be most effecve at
keeping them engaged. Aer all, social media has the power to
spread informaon fast and help keep everyone involved in the
Yes, social media during the pandemic can be tricky. Stay posive,
be aware of the risks, but keep in mind there are always
If you need help managing your social media, or just need an audit
on how to get the most out of your social media, get in touch with
me today firstname.lastname@example.org
THE LAUNCH OF A NEW
LAUNCHED IN SEPTEMBER 2020 IN THE
MIDDLE OF THE PANDEMIC Hydromerse
Skin Recovery System is fast gaining
popularity despite the current lockdowns.
The owner of the company, Graham
Stevens had a dream to introduce an
amazing skincare line with incredible
funconality and benefits and so
Hydromerse was borne. We spoke with
Graham recently about his new venture.
APJ Q1: GRAHAM, TELL US ABOUT THE
PRODUCTS THAT YOU HAVE
DEVELOPED AND HOW THEY COME
Our first product we created was the
Hydromerse Skin Recovery System. It is a
“sheet-free” hydrang and cooling skincare
mask that can be applied to any part of the
face or body. It won’t slip nor slide off as it
has a unique two-step applicaon method
- the Hydromerse gel which cools,
hydrates, soothes and refreshes the skin,
and the spray which acvates an outer
layer barrier and seals the hydrang gel in
place, exactly where you want it to be. We
designed Hydromerse to be flexible for
clinics to use and sell as a mask that can be
worn before, during, or aer an aesthec
procedure with the rest taken home by the
client for connued use between visits, or
as a stand-alone product for sale in the
clinic whenever someone wants a
The idea for Hydromerse was born aer I
had an in-clinic skin treatment that le my
face feeling very hot, dehydrated, and
uncomfortable. I looked for something to
apply and couldn’t find anything on the
market that would cool, soothe, while also hydrate my skin, and stay in place if I was sat
up or walking around. I wanted something I could use at home aer an aesthec
procedure that allowed me to connue in my daily tasks without slipping off my face.
APJ Q2: HOW IS HYDROMERSE SKIN RECOVERY APPLIED AND WHAT ARE THE
BENEFITS IT OFFERS?
Our Skin Recovery System can be applied in the clinic and by the client at home using a
silicone applicator. The benefit for both the clinician and client is that the gel mask stays
in place with our unique barrier technology. It hydrates, cools, and soothes the skin and
there is no sheet mask to throw away. It can be applied where it is needed most. The
spray seals in the gel mask meaning it doesn’t dry out on the skin and can be worn as
long as required. It is also oil free, silicone-free, colour-free, fragrance free, ethoxylate/
parabens and sulphate free so there is no potenal irritaon.
APJ Q3: WHAT SKIN-TYPES AND CONDITIONS WOULD BENEFIT FROM THIS
It is suitable for all skin types, those concerned with dry skin, fine lines, wrinkles, and
redness. It is also great as a hydrang mask for men as from experience sheet masks
don’t stay in place if you have a beard!
APJ Q4: WHAT INGREDIENTS ARE IN HYDROMERSE SKIN RECOVERY AND IS THE
PRODUCT AUSTRALIAN-MADE? Hydromerse Skin Recovery contains Hyaluronic acid
(2%), Glycerine and Menthyl Lactate to cool and soothe the skin. It is proudly Licenced
Australian Made and Owned and Cruelty Free. It is also Vegan.
APJ Q5: WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE REST OF THE YEAR?
We are excited to announce that we are also launching six new Cosmeceucal skin care
products – for in clinic and home use. All these are made in Australia and cruelty free too.
Hydromerse Cosmeceucals are specially formulated using some of the most nourishing
and regenerave ingredients to help combat the ageing process, incorporang bio-acve
botanical extracts together with pepdes and potent nutrients to minimise the effects of
ageing. We also offer all salons and clinics that purchase Hydromerse, tailor-made social
media posts to co-promote their business for free. We strongly believe that working
together we can achieve more via partnering with clinics.
APJ Q6: WHERE CAN YOU FIND OUT MORE ABOUT HYDROMERSE SKIN CARE?
For further informaon on Hydromerse you can contact Graham Stevens 0478 032 628,
email@example.com or our website is www.hydromerse.com
We are also acve on Instagram, Facebook @hydromerse and also have a page on
RadianiX® Sublingual Glutathione
SUPPORTING SKIN HEALTH
AND THE NATURAL BODY’S
IF YOU ARE TREATING SKIN
CONDITIONS you most likely are
confronted with melasma and
pigmentaon – these are stubborn skin
condions that manifest due to hormonal
changes in the body or photo-ageing of
the skin caused by repeated exposure to
the sun's UV radiaon. UV radiaon
causes excessive producon of melanin,
wrinkles, and uneven skin tone.
While you may be addressing these
condions through various technologies
and techniques including laser, peels and
topicals, you can now also maximise your
treatment results through a
complementary, evidence-based internal
approach using glutathione, considered
one of the most effecve ways to support
skin health. So how does glutathione work
and why is it so important?
THE MASTER ANTIOXIDANT
Glutathione (GSH) is known as the master
anoxidant. It works directly as a freeradical
scavenger. Another benefit of
glutathione is that it boosts the ulisaon
and the recycling of other anoxidants
such as vitamins C and E, alpha-lipoic acid
The primary purpose of glutathione is
protecon from the skin’s biggest threat - oxidaon. As an anoxidant, glutathione can
reduce skin damage from stresses such as sun exposure, before it creates pigmentaon
and dark spots.
SKIN LIGHTENING AND THE ANTI-MELANOGENIC EFFECT
When it comes to pigmentaon, glutathione can provide posive benefits. This is
because glutathione has proven an-melanogenic effects by smulang pheomelanin
synthesis rather than eumelanin synthesis, resulng in lighter skin pigmentaon. Most
arficial depigmentaon chemicals act by destroying melanocytes, whereas glutathione
protects the melanocytes via its anoxidant properes.
Studies have shown oral glutathione resulted in the lightening of skin colour. Interesngly,
subjects aged more than 40 years old experienced more pronounced skin brightening.
Usually, this age group suffered more photodamage from cumulave sun exposure.
Another study showed glutathione’s ability to improve wrinkles and increased skin
elascity (an-ageing effect).
Glutathione works by interrupng melanin synthesis switching from Eumelanin (dark) to
Pheomelanin (light) melanin, bringing skin back to its fairest tone.
GLUTATHIONE (GSH) AND IMMUNE SUPPORT
Several studies also confirm that individuals with severe GSH Synthetase deficiency show
an increased suscepbility to bacterial infecons due to a lack of glutathione. The
producon of ROS during phagocytosis results in the death of neutrophils, CD4+ T cells,
being oxidave damage to the paents’ immunity.
Depleon of GSH also inhibits macrophage acvity. The lymphoid cells also depend on
opmal glutathione level. On the other hand, some immune cell funcons (T-cell
proliferaon, lymphokine-acvated killer cells and natural killer cells), are sensive to
glutathione depleon. Hence, the immune system may be sensive to a deficiency or
excessive glutathione. Glutathione supplementaon should be given daily in opmal
doses to replenish the intrinsic glutathione and maintain glutathione homeostasis.
Therefore, glutathione is also great news in supporng the body’s
GLUTATHIONE AND BIOAVAILABILITY
In a healthy person, the intracellular level of glutathione is
between 1-to-2 mM, plasma level of 2 mM and brain level of 1–
3mM. For depleon levels of glutathione especially in older adult,
oral administraon may be used to boost levels. However,
effecve delivery of glutathione is oen a problem. This is
because the gastrointesnal tract is hosle to glutathione where
the intesnal enzymes hydrolyse the tripepde structure, while
undergoing first pass liver metabolism, resulng in an incredibly
low, oral glutathione bioavailability. While glutathione can be
administered via injecon, this can only be delivered by a medical
professional or prescribing nurse.
RadianiX® a technology known as WaferiX, a new advancement
where glutathione is delivered by sublingual wafer purposemade
to dissolve under the tongue in approximately 30 seconds
for rapid absorpon of glutathione into the blood circulaon.
The WaferiX technology improves bioavailability by bypassing
intesnal degradaon and the first pass metabolism. It penetrates
the mucosa via passive transport through the mucosa cells or
around the cells into the blood circulaon. Studies showed a rapid
sublingual absorpon, glutathione Tmax at 30 to 60 minutes aer
The introducon of nutrional supplements that support and
opmise skin health and wellbeing are one of the fastest growing
categories in salon and clinics. Today’s consumers are seeking a
stepped-up level of care that goes beyond basic skincare to also
boost overall energy levels and immunity. Glutathione is highly
supported through extensive evidence-based research studies
validang its anoxidant capabilies as a free-radical scavenger
that boosts the ulisaon and the recycling of other important
anoxidants such as vitamins C and E, alpha-lipoic acid and
WHY YOU SHOULD STOCK RadianiX®?
If you are currently treang clients with pigmentaon, or for
improving overall skin health and ageing skin this is the perfect
complementary take-home treatment to further support their
result. Aracvely packaged for daily sublingual delivery,
RadianiX® has become a popular supplement due to its
efficacious delivery of glutathione and its incredible benefits. It is
easy to use as it simply dissolved under the tongue in
approximately 30 seconds.
RadianiX® is now available to salon and clinics. By introducing it
to your clients you will be offering an addional layer of support to
enhance your skin treatment results, as well as opmising your
clients’ overall wellbeing. APJ
If you would like to stock RadianiX® and for further
informaon and pricing, you can contact Enty
Chrissy Cunningham or Jeremy Dalton
03 9737 4333
DIVERSITY IN SKINCARE
What does it mean?
Dr Tiina Meder
AUSTRALIA, BEING A MULTICULTURAL SOCIETY means that we
are made up of a diverse range of ethnic groups. While most of
our clients are probably Caucasian, and indeed, our training in
most instances has predominantly consisted of working on
Caucasian skin types, but the need to understand how skins of
colour differ is an important consideraon, for the purpose of risks
and limitaons, especially when treang them.
In this arcle renowned dermatologist Dr Tiina Meder, discusses
some of the presented issues when working with skins that would
be classified as Type IV or V on the Fitzpatrick scale.
We must accept that all early research on cutaneous anatomy and
physiology were performed mostly on white populaon, so the
basis of many skincare formulaons has been focused on this
fundamental issue, but this is progressively changing. When we
are speaking about skincare roune or the choice of a moisturiser,
by default, we are using principles and ideas of the past, based on
this limited knowledge about the human skin.
Meanwhile, dark skin types have certain fundamental differences
to white skin and not just colour, there are other factors to
consider that must be carefully assessed, especially if we are
providing skincare services.
When it comes to makeup or colour cosmecs, the issue is a visual
one that will require that we colour match to ensure appropriate
product choice. However, when considering skincare needs the
consideraons are not so obvious. So, let’s take a closer look at
how coloured skin differs from white skin.
New research is elucidang similaries and differences in skin of
colour and white skin with regards to skin barrier, skin sensivity,
pigmentaon, regeneraon, and scarificaon and even in transepidermal
MELANIN AND THE ETHNIC DIVIDE
When it comes to skin colour the number of pigmented cells or
melanocytes remain relavely constant in all types of skin. But
melanocytes in the darker skin are larger, more dispersed and
contain much more melanin, which is less easy to destroy
comparing with a Caucasian skin. Also, melanocytes in dark skin
are more sensive to all kind of smulaon and we also find that
tyrosinase - the enzyme responsible of pigment synthesis - is more
acve, so cells can easily produce addional new pigment when
smulated. Therefore, individuals with a Fitzpatrick phototype IV
and higher are more suscepble to post-inflammatory
pigmentaon (PIH) that can result from different aesthec
procedures, such as chemical peels to hair depilaon, etc. It is
important to note that skin irritaon, inflammaon, minor
mechanical traumasm, skin injury or the use of potenally
irritang cosmec products can easily lead to hyperpigmentaon
and uneven skin tone in darker skin types.
Addionally, pigment loss such as hypopigmentaon can occur, but
this is less frequent. In terms of risk consideraons, it is important
to note that clients with dry and sensive skin are at high risk of
reacons, and dark skin is predisposed to dryness more than
As a rule, dark skin is more fragile than white skin, this is contrary
to the prevailing opinion over many years by the cosmec industry
that believed that dark skin is more resilient, and that white skin
was more fragile. For example, trans epidermal water loss (TEWL)
is higher in the darker skin, the rate of desquamaon of cells in the
epidermis is lower, resulng oen in the dryness, high sensivity
and even xerosis, which increases with age.
HIGH RISK OF PIGMENTATION
All ingredients that have a potenal to cause significant irritaon
or dryness when applied to the skin can cause pigment alteraon
in dark skin and must be avoided. The most common topical agent
associated with this type of problem include benzoyl peroxide,
renoids, salicylic acid, and glycolic acid.
Another popular skin lightening agent, hydroquinone can also
irritate dark skin and even lead to the development of ochronosis
(a persistent blue-black pigmentaon) especially in prolonged use
by people with skin phototype higher than Fitzpatrick Type IV. The
same problem can occur with resorcinol, which is somemes
included in cosmec products.
TREATING MELASMA AND ACNE
The treatment of melasma and acne is always the challenge
because the choice of treatments, especially of peeling agent, is
limited. Superficial peels can be used for the treatment of skin
condions, but even medium-depth peels need to be used with
extreme cauon, and deep peels must not be used at all due to
the high risk of complicaons and side effects.
Some cosmec ingredients such as glycolic and salicylic acid at
very low strength may be used in daily skincare for the purpose of
preparing the skin for a chemical peel or for lightening the skin,
but this category of products must be recommended and
supervised by qualified and experienced praconers and clients
must be carefully assessed and observed during their use.
The huge problem for us is that the majority of the cosmec
industry uses products that have been formulated predominantly
for Caucasian skin. For example, have you ever seen any warnings
on products containing salicylic acid or renoids stang: “increase
the risk of hyperpigmentaon in case of the dark skin”? Even,
with products formulated for clinic use, these warning are oen
not menoned. This is something that needs to change because
the lack of appropriate warnings can be detrimental to a growing
community of people of colour and many are already suffering of
unexpected and completely avoidable side effects with the use of
Potenally harmful ingredients for dark skin types can be seen in
all categories of products: cleansers, toners, serums and
concentrates, creams, and emulsions, exfoliants and masks and
even in makeup foundaons and primers, without any noces of
precauon. Addionally, they also apply to an-ageing skincare, as
well sun protecon products, but within this category, it is less
about harm and more about a wiser choose of product.
When treang skin condions please also take note of your
client’s ethnic background, as this may help you avoid potenal
INTRODUCING MEDER BEAUTY
The first night cream for sleepless nights
WHEN YOU DON’T SLEEP ENOUGH, it
impacts your energy levels, mood, and your
skin. Recent studies have established that
lack of sleep aacks skin health and its
appearance in several ways. One study
confirmed that even one sleepless night
can reduce the skin’s moisture levels, and
in 50% of cases it caused so much damage
to the protecve barrier that the skin
started to flake and itch. Lack of sleep
disrupts microcirculaon, dulls the
complexion, reduces elascity and expands
the pores making them more visible. Sleep
deprivaon affects the skin’s ability to
restore and protect itself. People who
sleep well are less suscepble to UV
damage, and their skin can recover from
injury much faster, for example, post laser
resurfacing, chemical peels and even
It would be great if everyone could get a
good sleep every night, but it’s not always
possible. New mothers and parents of
teenagers, students and pensioners,
millionaires and unemployed — all of us
suffer from sleep deprivaon at one me
or another. In 2020 the global health crisis
caused major stress to all and made sleep
deprivaon even more common. We may
not be able to avoid some sleepless nights,
but we can help protect our skin from their
PRESENTING CIRCA-NIGHT -
OVERNIGHT RESTORATIVE BIOHACK
CREAM FOR ALL SKIN TYPES
Circa stands for circadian and reflects the
way the cream works - acve ingredients
affect the circadian mechanics of skin
changes. Even if you are restless or barely
sleeping at night Circa-Night Cream will
kick-start the restorave processes that
occur in the skin when you are sound
asleep. Circa-Night Cream affects skin cells by aligning skin metabolism with healthy
circadian rhythms and prevenng cell stress and premature ageing. Sleep deprivaon has
a selecve impact on cell funcons - fibroblasts in the deeper skin layers connue to
produce collagen and elasn but fail to arrange them in three-dimensional structures in
the absence of special chaperone proteins. The state of deep sleep acvates chaperone
proteins. Lack of sleep will inhibit collagen and elasn formaon leading to the face
looking red and pale.
DISCOVERY OF METABIOTIC FROM SWISS GLACIERS: The effect of sleep deprivaon
on the skin is hard to balance, but amazingly an ancient microorganism dormant in the ice
for thousands of years, can help us. A new bacteria strain, lodobacter ssp, discovered in
the glaciers of the Swiss canton of Valais, where Meder Beauty Science Lab is situated.
These molecules can acvate the 3D arrangement of structural proteins in the skin and
restore the synthesis of chaperones, which decrease with age and lack of sleep. Ice-
Awake, a new ingredient based on these bacteria, can postpone the appearance of
wrinkles, and support the skin’s elascity. Addionally, this metabioc can restore the
healthy synthesis of ATP, the cell energy currency in the mitochondria and launch the
skin’s restorave process.
NATURAL SOY PEPTIDES: Lack of sleep disrupts the synthesis of type I collagen, one of
the key markers of ageing. Young skin is firm and elasc due to large contents of type I
collagen, but with age, it is replaced by less organised and elasc proteins. As the
producon of type I collagen diminishes, this will contribute to the skin thinning and
looking red. Circa-Night Cream is enriched with a complex of glycoproteins HRGPs
derived from natural soy extract to restore collagen synthesis at night regardless of sleep
PROBIOTIC FROM THE INDIAN OCEAN: To support and enhance the effect of
metabioc Ice-Awake® and soy pepdes, the Circa-Night Cream formula was
strengthened with an epigenec ingredient of bacterial origin, probioc Sirtalice® derived
from the ice-cold waters 3.5 km deep within the Indian Ocean. Probioc Sirtalice®
acvates the synthesis of type I collagen protein precursors, while blocking the
producon of harmful enzymes that destroy collagen and elasn. But, the most important
effect of Sirtalice® is its ability to instantly launch the synthesis of ATP - the energy
generated by mitochondria in skin cells.
SHEA BUTTER ENRICHED WITH VITAMIN B5: African shea buer is added for its
beneficial lipids to restore skin protecon and vitamin B5 to support against inflammaon,
reduces irritaon, and restores the skin’s ability to regenerate at night. Circa-Night Cream
helps align the skin metabolism with healthy circadian rhythms, prevenng stress-related
changes and premature ageing even if you don’t get enough sleep.
To introduce CIRCA-NIGHT to your clients, contact MEDER BEAUTY SCIENCE 0466 338
844 firstname.lastname@example.org mederbeautyscience.com.au
At Meder Beauty Science, We Believe That Mandatory
Measures Need to Be in Place in the Beauty Industry to
Achieve a Professional Standard for Success.
We are looking for YOU,
but are you looking for US?
TAKE THE TEST!
Are you dealing with product waste?
Are you looking for something to fill a void?
Are you currently rewarded for your loyalty?
Are you red of compeng with every other clinic?
Are you looking for products that are clinically proven?
Are you looking for a product that produces instant results?
Are you wanng something that has no animal tesng history?
Are you looking for a company that doesn't compete with you?
Are you ready for a Professional brand that is ahead of its me?
Are you ready to enhance your results and increase your income?
Are you looking for a product with natural refined acve ingredients?
Are you red of compeng with department stores selling your brands?
Are you looking for a brand with products your clients can't live without?
Are you able to measure your product "Return on Investment" accurately?
Are you using an award-winning global brand that has a proven track record?
Are you looking for a brand that has won awards against the beauty industry giants?
Are you wanng a product with unique packaging, locking in all the acve ingredients?
Are you aware MEDER is the world's first “Clinically Proven Pre & Probioc” skincare?
Are you ready to make a difference in your clients' lives and increase your customer base?
Are you looking for something unique that gives you the opportunity to be first to market?
Are you wanng to introduce "Targeted Professional Products" to meet your clients' needs head-on?
Are you aware that Australians & New Zealanders have been buying MEDER from overseas unl now?
Are you looking for a globally established high-end professional product new to the Australian market?
Are you struggling to find a high-end product with flexible buy in opons and requires minimal outlay?
So how did we measure up?
Are YOU looking for US?
If you are ready to make a change or looking for a high-end
Professional Cosmeceutical ...Ask yourself...
Are YOU the next
0466 338 844 email@example.com mederbeautyscience.com.au
GAINING THE WINNING
MINDSET TO SUCCEED IN A
FEAR AND ANXIETY HAVE AN INCREDIBLE ABILITY TO
PARALYSE our thinking and restrict our ability to idenfy soluons
and resolve problems. This is because fear puts us in a ‘fight and
flight’ mode and all we want to do is escape. While this may be
appropriate for an immediate threat, it is not the state of mind we
need to remain in if we want to resolve on-going or long-term
The world as we know it has changed forever. So has the way we
need to do business. Experts agree that there are sll
opportunies for business survival and even growth, but we need
to be open to new ideas, revisit our business model and be flexible
to change. This does not mean rearranging a couple of things in
the way we do things it is more fundamental than that – it
requires that we gain a new way of thinking and perceiving our
changing world in order to idenfy new opons that may serve us
All new ideas originate in the brain through thought processes.
Gaining a beer understanding of how our brain works when it
comes to conceptualising and solve problems wisely can be very
useful, especially when we are seeking to idenfy changes that
will serve us beer.
At our recent Aesthec Conference, I discussed the two key
modes of thinking - linear and lateral - and how we can benefit by
tapping into both modes and ulising them efficiently to make
wiser and more producve decisions. In this arcle I will share
these principles and trust they can help maximise your potenal in
making well thoughtout and wise decisions during these
HOW WE MAKE DECISIONS
As a rule, we usually make business decision based on the analysis
of informaon we possess through specific, logical criteria. This
informaon is oen obtained through educaon we have
completed, or supplier training through companies we engage
with. We introduce a product or a technology into our business
and we undergo training on the appropriate methodology, policies
and procedures of how to use the piece of equipment or skincare
appropriately. This process is called vercal or linear thinking and
usually directs us to a predicable outcome of how we think and
perform a task.
Studies are now idenfying the value of processing informaon
and making decisions based on the principles of lateral thinking.
This mode of thinking can lead us to outcomes that are more
creave, original and less predictable allowing us to carve our
niche though a more unique business model that can provide us
with a strong compeve advantage.
In challenging mes, we aim to excel by becoming a specialist at
what we do. However, it is now considered a dangerous
presupposion that we only need to specialise in the one thing we
do and remain ignorant of what other services are all about and
how they can appeal to our client-base. In terms of a mindset,
that is considered vercal or linear thinking, but we also need to
understand and appreciate the value we can gain from the lateral
thinking perspecve, so let’s compare both and see what benefits
each mode can offer us and how working efficiently with both
modes can help us achieve new and beer ways of making
WHAT IS LATERAL THINKING?
Lateral thinking is solving problems through an indirect and
creave approach, using reasoning that is not immediately obvious
and involving ideas that may not be obtainable by using only
tradional step-by-step logic.
The term lateral thinking was introduced in 1967 by Dr. Edward de
Bono. a Maltese physician and psychologist who defines it as a
technique of problem solving by approaching problems indirectly at
diverse angles instead of concentrang on a single approach.
Lateral thinking is the ability to use your imaginaon to look at a
problem in a fresh way and come up with a new soluon.
Successful business managers usually draw on lateral thinking
skills to solve problems by ulising innovave ways to keep their
team engaged and on track with their performance. They achieve
this by using surprise elements to movate them to remain
producve. In essence, lateral thinking requires that you think
outside the box through approaches that are oen illogical and
unconvenonal. Here is an example. A manager is seeing that the
team is starng to exhibit signs of irritability, disconnect,
clumsiness and an inability to remain focused on their goals
resulng in a drop of producvity. While she idenfied signs of
fague and clumsiness, she realises she needs to immediately
implement a strategy that will change this dangerous trajectory
and bring the team back in line. This is what she does.
She announces to the staff that they she will close the business for
30 minutes and take them across the road to the tavern for a
quick drink together and a bite to eat. During that me, she
acknowledges that she recognises that the team is stressed with
all the pressures they are confronted with. She individually affirms
each staff member for their strengths and abilies and aempts to
enhance their team morale by reinforcing trust and confidence in
their ability to pull through the challenges they are facing. She also
affirms that she wants to ensure that all their posions of
employment are retained. She finishes by saying, “I have every
confidence in all of you that together we can pull through this.”
This approach could be considered completely opposite to a
tradional one of ‘performance reviews, and please explain your
reason for a lack of producvity’, but it sends a powerful message to
the staff that their human frailty is taken into consideraon and
while it has contributed to a hiccup in producvity, the manager
has chosen to focus on recognising their strengths and restoring
their confidence to rise to the challenge and achieve their goals.
This is lateral thinking.
LINEAR OR FOCUSED MODE OF THINKING
So how does Linear thinking differ? Linear thinking is based on
logic, rules and raonality (or sustained reason) to solve a problem.
Linear thinking is also known as vercal, or focused mode of
thinking. This is how you operate when you are concentrang
intently on something you are trying to learn, solve or perform.
While crical thinking is also linear it is more sophiscated or
advanced as it goes one step further. It requires us to pull things
apart, ask quesons, invesgate analyse and crically appraise.
We are encouraged to examine all the evidence and seek
addional resources and informaon before reaching a conclusion.
Linear thinking uses logic as the key driver. This mode of thinking
is important when we want to perfect a skill. It is based solely on
logic and evidence-based informaon. While this mode of thinking
is the most reliable when it comes to gaining educaon and
qualifying for a profession, it oen leaves us short with some of
DIFFUSED OR LATERAL MODE OF THINKING
In comparison, the diffused or lateral mode of thinking springs
into acon when our brain is in a relaxed state. This is when you
are unconsciously thinking of the problem you are trying to
understand or solve. Even when you step back from a problem and
not think about it, the thought can sll be running in the back of
your mind unconsciously as you go about your day.
It is in this relaxed state that your brain is free to wander around,
explore and make new potenal connecons between ideas and
concepts that already exist. In this parasympathec state the
brain creates new neurons expanding your ability to recognise
addional pathways of thought. For example, have you ever gone
to sleep with a problem and the next morning without thinking
about it suddenly the right answer just pops up?
So, how do you develop your ability to also think laterally? Studies
confirm that exercise and sleep are wonderful ways to switch your
mind into the lateral or diffused mode of thinking. Both help the
brain develop new neural pathways which help you understand
and retain informaon effecvely. Please also note that this is why
taking breaks is so important, especially if you are feeling stuck. A
break away from work mode is not necessarily lost me.
Distancing yourself from a challenge or a problem can actually
serve you in allowing the brain to idenfy ways of perfecng your
skills sets as well as improving your performance. Remember that
with your staff as well. It will re-energise them and improve their
WHY WE NEED BOTH
For effecve learning or creave decision to be made, your brain
needs to constantly be able to go back and forth between these
two modes — grappling with and trying to understand or solve a
problem in the linear mode, while stepping back from it for a me.
This will allow the brain to relax and assimilate ideas and form new
connecons between related concepts in the background. In doing
so, it will help you see the problem from a big picture perspecve.
You can then switch back to the raonal or linear mode — where
you can then gain more detailed informaon from these newly
formed connecons and build on top of them.
HOW WE LEARN IN OUR PROFESSION
Essenally, when we study to enter our profession, we are
presented with concepts and ideals and then encouraged to
systemacally apply that knowledge through specific steps,
policies and procedures that are designed to help us achieve an
outcome. This strictly involves linear or raonal thinking. As a
result, we learn to trust the Linear thinking mode, because it has
led us to gain knowledge and develop our skills. There is no doubt
that most of us operate through a linear dominant thought
While linear thinking is the preferred mode for learning, once we
move into applying our professional knowledge, and even more so
when establishing a business brand and determining our
compeve advantage, this is where the importance of lateral
thinking is crical. This is because lateral thinking can provide us
with the flexibility to solve problems through an indirect and
creave approach, while remaining in linear mode can help us do
tasks well, it can also keep us persistent and inflexible to
necessary changes we need to make. Here are four benefits how
lateral thinking can help us in this present me:
• Alternaves: It can allow us to idenfy new concepts that
breed new ideas.
• Focus: It can help us sharpen or change our focus to improve
our creave efforts.
• Challenge: It can help us to break free from the limitaons of
outdated or predictable ways of thinking and doing things.
• Originality: It can help us idenfy new concepts that can
make us unique, original and more compeve.
I am sure most of you invest in your ongoing learning. Once you
graduate, much of what you connue to learn involved the
applicaon of technology and treatment methodologies, or
protocols. While this informaon is invaluable and essenal, your
competor have probably gained the same informaon when
using similar technology or products as you have, so how can you
compete and what is your point of difference? You need to find
ways that you express what you do and how your brand will differ
in philosophy or culture. You will need to shape your brand in a
way that reflects who you are and will aract the clientele who
can resonate and trust your values and philosophy.
THE CHAMELEON SYNDROME
The Chameleon is a disncve and highly specialised group of
lizards with over 202 species that come in a range of colours.
They have been endowed by nature to be able to change their
colour in order to protect themselves from predators. In a bed of
grass their skin turns green, but when they are on the earth, they
take on the colour of their environment and become brown. This
camouflage aids in their survival.
Now let’s consider - during the introducon of the first lockdowns
what was our number one priority? Was it not our survival from
the virus? We were warned to social distance, retreat from contact
with others for our own safety and survival. We took me out to
re-evaluate our priories, our safety and our direcon. I know that
many stated how they enjoyed the quieter pace of life and the
focus on safety and survival. However, once we returned to our
businesses, we need to become aware of how our clients have
changed, how the world has changed and how we also need to
step out and do things differently in order to move forward. We
need to guard against the Chameleon syndrome of just blending
with our environment and the status quo, instead of innovang
and embracing change.
BE CLEAR ON YOUR AIMS
Another important area of consideraon is to make sure you are
clear on your aims. If you have implemented certain changes and
you gradually evolve your brand to have a different focus, you
need to make sure that these changes are clearly structured and
arculated. Guard against being vague about these changes, you
need to gain clarity about what now are your aims and strongly
If we reorientate our percepons, clearly define who we are and
what we stand for, we will enhance our probabilies to get what
we want out of life, but we need to be deadly serious about what
our aims are and then pursue them.
PRINCIPLES FOR REDEFINING YOUR BRAND
As you review what changes you will be implemenng it is useful
to run a quick check on three specific areas that you will find
defined in Michael Gerber’s book The E-Myth Enterprise. Gerber’s
business methodology is now highly validated and is even taught
at university. In brief the three skillsets that make up a successful
• The Entrepreneur – this skillset is required to establish the
overall concept of the business brand, the services it will
provide, the business model, the concept and the direcon.
What will it look like and who will be the target market it will
• Manager – once this is defined the role of the manager is to
establish the systems that will implement and introduce the
business concept – policies and procedures, rules and
regulaons, account and record-keeping systems, progress
evaluaon systems, stocktaking spreadsheets, staff interview
processes and staff development and educaon, client
interacon, consent form, feedback forms, client
communicaon processes, social media, website, payment
transacon methods, etc.
• Technician – who will be the exceponally skilled person who
is dedicated to safety and technical excellence in delivering
the service? How will they update their skills, stay current and
Now truthfully consider your own strengths in these three areas?
Be ruthlessly honest about what you love and are good at and
what you are not so good at. The areas where you lack skill or
passion are the areas in which you need to hire others. There is
common tendency for business owner to hire people who are just
like themselves, leaving the business at a loose end in the area
they are weak in.
If you tolerate pung systems in place, but find it boring, access
documents from your associaon where experts have put these
together for you. (APAN has over 50 resource documents and
kits), or hire a “detail” person who loves systems and order. Don’t
hire an entrepreneur that may compete with you and want to
constantly implement new ideas, while failing to put the right
systems in place to help strengthen and streamline operaons.
On the other hand, you may be an amazing praconer but you
lack sufficient entrepreneurial capabilies to idenfy your opons.
Focus on strengthening your lateral thinking ability to allow you to
idenfy new opportunies. If you are sll struggling, don’t feel
bad about it, we are rarely strong in all three areas. Either hire
someone, or consult with a person who is skilled in the area you
are weak in. If you are an APAN member please book a mentoring
session with me and together we can brainstorm to discover
opon for moving forward. It’s that simple. Don’t struggle on
your own – reach out to us, help is available and we are here to
Finally, I encourage you to look at change as your friend. With the
right skills you can idenfy ways of moving forward. While this is
just an introducon to this topic, please know there are answer for
all your problems and experts who can help. APJ
IT IS WELL DOCUMENTED that 80% of
women will purchase from a well-known
brand over a bouque or niche one – a
scary stasc for the small business owner
who generally doesn’t have the same large
figure markeng budget. It is also a noisy
world out there with the average
consumer potenally hit with thousands of
markeng messages every day. So how
does the small business stand out in the
crowded marketplace and what can you do
to ensure you are seen and heard?
Believe it or not, small businesses can have
several compeve advantages over larger
brands. For one, smaller businesses tend to
be more agile. Big brands usually have
complex corporate structures where
decisions must make their way through the
chain of command. They also rely on
feedback from mulple locaons to inform
their strategies and oen need to market
to a wider demographic, which in turn
requires more content and more
Small businesses have the flexibility to
offer a more personal service and be more
accommodang. They also tend to be
beer informed about the local
marketplace and are in a beer posion to
react quickly to market changes.
For a small business, in a service
environment, word-of-mouth is by far the
most cost-effecve markeng mechanism.
If your team is delivering quality
treatments, with effecve client outcomes
and five-star service, then word of mouth
referrals should be easy to come by. The
trick of course, is geng the team to ask
for referrals and then to treat every new
client as though they are their only client
to ensure they keep coming back. “Refer-afriend”
cards are a great reminder to your
clients to let their contacts know about
your services. You may wish to consider a
client reward for the referral, but some
clients may be embarrassed about
receiving a free treatment in return for a
recommendaon. I find that most people are willing to do a favour for others - especially
when they have provided a great customer experience for them. My preference is to hand
the client two business cards and simply ask them to pass them on to any friends, family
or colleagues who may need your services.
Many businesses owners see markeng as a “chore” that needs to be carried out from
me to me when they need more clients, but one way or another it should be a part of
your everyday work. That said, the following six tasks should feature on your quarterly
1. Review your Google Places lisng – how does it compare to your competors? Have
you added any new services onto the lisng? Do your photos reflect your business
fully and are your contact details and opening mes current? Bing also has a places
directory - luckily for those with an endless to-do list, it can be set up to pull
automacally from Google Places.
2. Review your website – is it current, modern, up to date and does it speak to your
intended clientele? Is it easy to navigate and does your menu structure make sense?
Does it load quickly? Does it allow easy online booking? Does it clearly provide all the
informaon your potenal clients are looking for?
3. Review your social media – are you posng regularly with good quality content? Are
you responding to enquiries quickly and engaging with your audience? Is your bio up
to date? Are you adapng to new ways of interacng on social media?
4. Review your exterior signage and in-house display and markeng materials - Is it all
in prisne condion? Is it current, clean and does it represent your business in the
5. Review your database – are you making the most of your client and contact lists and
are you regularly reaching out with professional-looking, relevant content?
6. Review staff presentaon – are your staff wearing uniforms and if so, are they looking
worn or fresh? The way staff present themselves is parcularly relevant in the
aesthec industry. A neat, polished appearance gives your clients confidence when
Over the years I’ve seen some terrible markeng blunders. A salon that ed its signage to
a wheelie bin to stop it blowing over, salons with broken leaflet holders stuck to their
windows, half peeled off sckers on windows, out- dated and shabby signage, branded
posters for products they no longer sell and even filthy front doors, run-down waing
areas and stained uniforms. All of these give a clear message about the business … lack of
care and lack of relevance in an industry that is all about the aesthec.
Finally, monitoring the success of your markeng efforts is vital. Do you have a system for
capturing and following up on enquiries and then measuring your success at converng
those enquiries into sales? Without this, a business owner could be pouring money down
the drain without the ability to assess whether their markeng dollars are being used
FOR SKIN HEALTH
WHILE INJECTABLES CAN ACHIEVE INSTANT LIFTING AND
VOLUMISING OF THE SKIN there is sll much that can be done
through regenerave skin therapies to support collagen and
Several years ago, I was interviewed for a TV producon. During
the filming I was asked to explain the difference between skin
therapies, injectables and surgery in just three minutes. While this
was a challenge this is how I answered them.
Imagine your face is a pillow, the pillowcase is your skin, and the
filling represents the deeper skin layers, fat, muscles, and bones
that support the pillowcase so it remains smooth and snug. Now
imaging over progressive use that the pillow filling becomes
flaened, what would happen to the pillowcase? It would become
So, we have three opons to correct this:
• We could cut the pillowcase and resize it so that it can once
again fit the pillow nice and snug – that is what plasc surgery
does, it removes excess skin and ghtens and remodels the
skin to fit the face that is experiencing volume decline.
• We could add extra padding to the pillow to increase its
volume and resize the shape of the pillow to resemble its
original state – that is what injectable fillers will do. They will
add volume to sunken, or loose areas of the face.
• Or we could beat and fluff the pillow to reacvate its volume,
so it regains its original shape – that is what skin therapies
using various techniques and technologies aempt to do, they
smulate the skin to behave more youthfully.
While hyaluronic acid and other volumising substances are
introduced to the skin via injecons, skin therapies aempt to
smulate the body’s own physiology. This involves strategies to
smulate the components that are responsible for volume and
skin smoothness, and these are in larger percentages collagen and
elasn. Gaining a beer understanding of these structures will
allow us to determine how best to regenerate them.
WHAT IS COLLAGEN?
Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body and makes up
around 70-80% of the dry weight of skin. It is found in connecve
ssues, such as carlage, tendons and fat. It is also found in skin,
bones, organs and eyeballs as well as hair and nails. Collagen in
joints is what helps us move smoothly without feeling bones grate
against each other. Collagen provides your skin with structure. In
visual terms, collagen can be related to the “glue” that binds many
of your body parts together. The name collagen even derives from
the Greek word, “kólla” which literally means “glue.”
There are around 28 different types of collagen in the body. Each
type contains a slightly different sequence of amino acids or
pepdes, which determines the specific role and funcon of that
type of collagen in the body. Of the 28 types, five of them make
up the majority, with Types I, II and III included in the most popular
supplements on the market.
Type I collagen makes up about 90 per cent of the collagen in our
body. Almost every ssue of your body contains Type I collagen,
including tendons, skin, bones, carlage and connecve ssues.
Densely packed fibres wound into a triple-helix structure comprise
this type. Its unique shape gives these structures their incredible
strength and elascity. As Type I collagen degrades, an increase in
wrinkles, fine lines become more apparent and loss of elascity
starng to manifest.
Type II collagen is found primarily in carlage. While its structure
is also a triple-helix, it has more loosely packed fibres. Type II
provides the cushion in the carlage for your bones and joints.
This type of collagen is oen found alongside Type I. It makes up
muscles, organs, arteries and some connecve ssues in the liver,
spleen, blood vessels, and internal organs, including the uterus.
Type IV collagen doesn’t form a fibrous triple-helix structure like
Types I, II, and III. Instead, it creates a web-like paern. This type
makes up the thin layer outside the cells, giving the cell structure.
It’s also found in the skin, liver, kidneys and other internal organs.
This unique type of collagen helps form cell surfaces and hair. It’s
also required to form the cells that create a pregnant woman’s
placenta (aka your baby’s life support in the womb).
WHY IS COLLAGEN IMPORTANT FOR THE SKIN?
Collagen essenally acts as the support structure – or scaffolding
for the skin. It’s what keeps skin firm and plump, and gives skin the
ability to retain moisture. Just picture a baby’s so, rounded cheek
– it looks nice and juicy because it’s full of collagen. Starng
around the age of 25, our bodies stop producing as much collagen
which eventually leads to a loss of volume and firmness. Skin that
was once plump and firm can look dry, flat and papery. Think of
the difference between a toddler cheek and that of an 80-yearold.
Collagen also plays a vital role in wound repairs such as skin gras
and second-degree burns. Collagen aracts cells, such as
fibroblasts and keranocytes, to the wound, which encourages
debridement, angiogenesis, and re-epithelialisaon. In addion,
collagen provides a natural scaffold or substrate for new ssue
WHAT CAUSES LOSS OF COLLAGEN?
As we get older, our bodies don’t produce as much collagen. It is
esmated that the skin loses 1% of its collagen every year starng
in the mid-thires and then its loss increases more rapidly.
According to dermatologist Dr. Ohara Aivaz, women, can lose up
to 30% of their collagen producon in the first five years
Collagen loss can also be accelerated by smoking, the sun,
polluon and a poor diet. As collagen producon dips, the
connecve ssue between the skin becomes thinner and the layer
of fat underneath it becomes more visible, leading to cellulite on
the body. On the face, the skin can become thinner and more
fragile, and wrinkles may be more visible. Hair and nails can
become weaker and joint pain may become more noceable.
According to The Cleveland Clinic, as collagen levels decrease with
age this not only leads to wrinkles and crepey-looking skin but
also sffer, less flexible tendons and ligaments, as well as shrinking
and weakening of muscles. Joint pain or osteoarthris may occur
due to worn carlage, along with gastrointesnal problems due to
thinning of the lining in the digesve tract.
WHAT IS ELASTIN AND HOW DOES IT RELATE TO
Elasn is what gives skin its “bounce back” property, as the name
implies. Similarly, to collagen, elasn is made up of fibroblasts,
pepdes and amino acids. Its rubber-band like nature is essenal
in helping us convey expressions. According to the University of
Leeds, elasn is what makes ssue recoil aer being stretched,
just like a rubber band – but elasc fibres are five mes more
extensible than an elasc band. Like collagen, elasn is a protein
that is found in the body’s connecve ssue. It is found in the skin
as well as the lungs, intesnes and artery walls. As elasn levels
decline, skin can wrinkle and sag.
Collagen and elasn are oen menoned together as they are
jointly responsible for the skin’s firmness and shape, but they have
different funcons. As we know, the dermis consists of a thick
layer of fibrous and elasc ssue, made mostly of collagen, with a
small but important component of elasn that gives the skin its
flexibility and strength.
While both collagen and elasn are similar, they do have their
differences. Collagen is produced by the body connuously
(although levels decline with age) while the body creates elasn
mainly during the foetal stage. Another key difference is that
collagen is a fibrous protein, while elasn is a protein that has the
ability to stretch and return to its original form. According to
several studies, elasn is substanally more flexible than collagen.
Put another way, collagen makes skin plump while elasn makes it
The natural ageing process can take its toll on elasn cells that can
become damaged over me due to wear and tear and natural
degradaon. This means that the skin will no longer be as capable
of bouncing back into posion, and this causes the formaon of
lines and wrinkles especially around the upper face – eyes,
forehead, and the mouth where it is more abundant during our
younger years, allowing the skin to be flexible when we express
CAN COLLAGEN LEVELS BE STIMULATED?
There are three ways that we can support our collagen and elasn
levels. These are:
• Preventave measures
• Skin treatment procedures, skincare formulaons and
• Diet and lifestyle
It’s not just ageing that can have a negave effect on collagen and
elasn. Other lifestyle habits and environmental factors also play a
Smoking – smoking can seriously damage blood vessels, which
means they can deliver less nutrients and oxygen to your skin,
causing collagen and elasn to break down more quickly. The act
of smoking itself also causes your lips to pucker, and over me this
will lead to wear and tear of the elasn around your mouth,
causing lines and wrinkles to develop.
UV Damage – Too much sun, without sufficient sun protecon
and in parcular, UVA protecon, can contribute to rapid
deterioraon of both collagen and elasn. On-going sun exposure
can contribute to severe deterioraon of collagen and elasn
fibres resulng in deep seated wrinkles and a leathery skin that
manifest as premature ageing.
While several technologies can contribute to reviving and
smulang collagen and elasn, without appropriate skin
protecve measures these treatments will be counterproducve.
SKIN TREATMENTS FOR STRENGTHENING COLLAGEN AND
There are several procedures that work on a cellular level to help
support collagen and elasn producon. As elasn is intertwined
with collagen fibres to form the collagen-elasn network we can
use technologies to smulate both at the same me.
One effecve technology that is experiencing a comeback is
microcurrent. So how does it work? Microcurrent has a wide
variety of incredible benefits. It is primarily sought out for the reeducaon
of facial muscles, muscle tone and natural contouring.
The reason that it can achieve this is because of its ability to
increase Adenosine Triphosphate (or ATP) levels through a mild
As we age, we produce less ATP and ATP produces the energy
that fuels the cell’s ability to make collagen and elasn. With a less
consistent producon of ATP, the body is unable to replace the
damage being done and to revive our collagen and elasn.
However, in order to build collagen, we need ATP.
Every muscle group ulises energy for movement. This movement
is derived in the form of ATP. The energy from ATP is used to reset
the myosin. Myosin is the motor, acn filaments are the tracks
along which myosin moves, and ATP is the fuel that powers
movement. For muscles to contract they need energy, that energy
comes from the nutrion we feed our body, but the immediate
source of myosin energy comes from the ATP.
Microcurrent facial treatments not only increase ATP by up to
500% and protein synthesis by up to 73%, but also increases
fibroblasc acvity by up to 60% and membrane transport (cell
permeability) by 30-40%. In addion, clinical studies consistently
show that microcurrent also increases blood circulaon by 35%.
As we know, microneedling creates ny pinpricks in the skin
causing slight injury. The skin responds to that injury by making
new collagen-rich ssue. This new skin ssue is in turn, more even
in tone and texture. According to a 2008 study, skin treated with
four microneedling sessions spaced one month apart, combined
with the applicaon of vitamin A and C considerably increased
collagen and elasn producon up to a 400% six months aer
compleng the treatment. The controlled skin injuries produced by
microneedling send the skin into a repair mode that triggers the
body to produce new collagen, as well as elasn, improving the
skin’s elascity. Microneedling also encourages the growth of
fibroblasts, epithelial and endothelial cells, which can equate to a
more even skin tone and a healthy glow.
IPL and Laser Treatments
IPL Photo-rejuvenaon works by penetrang deeply into the skin
to smulate new collagen growth and to promote the shedding of
damaged ssue. Independent clinical research has shown that
treatment with IPL at low energies can increase collagen
producon by 42% in one treatment. It works by introducing
intermient pulses of laser light to the skin. This light passes
through the upper layers of the skin, which in turn leaves the
healthy ssue unharmed. New collagen is produced, which in turn
allows for the skin to undergo a marked improvement.
It’s important to understand that IPL therapy boosts collagen
producon in several ways, which in turn makes it incredibly
useful to older individuals that may suffer from ageing skin.
The first way destroys undesirable collagen structures. This allows
the body to iniate the healing process, which in turn allows it to
smulate collagen producon.
The second way is by encouraging blood flow to treated areas. The
excess heat is absorbed by the surrounding ssue. While this heat
tends to be insufficient to cause damage, it does cause the blood
vessels to expand. This results in an increased blood flow, which in
turn ensures that collagen can be produced at an increased rate.
The last major way involves the other effects of iniang the
body’s repair process. Once the old, less dense collagen structures
are removed, the body tends to be beer able to produce new
collagen cells aer the new ssue has been created. This results in
a general improvement to the firmness and texture of skin for a
prolonged period following successful IPL therapy.
When it comes to laser therapy, the growth of collagen and elasn
can be smulated through the use of intense wavelengths of light
and ultrasound. This energy triggers a natural response under the
skin, jump-starng the regenerave process that produces fresh,
Another light source that can smulate collagen and elasn is LED,
especially the far and near infrared light, which acts on fibroblasts
that are responsible for collagen and elasn producon. Red light
also reduces skin inflammaon, and this acon enhances skin
The combinaon of technologies used in conjuncon with
evidence-based skincare ingredients such as hyaluronic acid,
renol, vitamin C, a diverse range of pepdes, niacinamide,
Coenzyme Q10, aloe vera and ginseng can substanally support
skin rejuvenaon by strengthening collagen and elasn
Collagen and Elasn and An-wrinkle Injecons
In treang the effects of collagen and elasn loss, and prevenng
this loss from occurring, an-wrinkle injecons can be one of the
quickest and most efficient soluons. This is because these
injecons will temporarily relax the muscle and the ssue that
control facial movement in parcular areas. This means that
forming expressions will be more challenging, as the muscles are in
a very relaxed state. This allows the skin to repair and reset,
smoothing out areas of lines and wrinkles.
Collagen supplements claim to help ease joint pain, slow muscle
loss and promote heart health along with improving the skin.
A 2014 study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, excerpted in
the Naonal Centre for Biotechnology Informaon, gave a group
of women aged 35-55 oral collagen pepdes. At the end of the
study, skin elascity in both groups showed a stascally
significant improvement in comparison to placebo. Aer four
weeks of follow-up treatment, a stascally significantly higher
A new study has found that mulple injecons of Restylane filler
was able to temporarily remove lines by literally filling them in.
Addionally, it was found that injectables can smulate the skin to
produce more collagen and strengthen the skin, eliminang
sagging and wrinkles. Other reputable injectables are Radiesse
and Ellanse also delivered similar results.
DIET AND NUTRITION
When it comes to diet, nutrion and lifestyle, we know that these
play a large part in collagen and elasn skin improvement. The skin
is nourished by oxygen and nutrients delivered to the dermis via
our blood vessels.
Collagen is produced naturally in the human body. The body
produces collagen by combining amino acids that are found
in protein-rich foods, like beef, chicken, fish, beans, eggs and dairy
products. Collagen producon is also supported by nutrients such
as vitamin C, zinc and copper.
According to Healthline, food like chicken skin, pork skin, beef, and
fish are excellent sources of collagen along with foods that contain
gelane, such as bone broth.
What about supplements?
Collagen supplements are one of the fastest growing industry.
They are available as powders, pills, and drinks that are oen
called “elixirs.” The collagen is usually derived from fish, pigs, and
cows and can include animal by-products such as skin or bones.
skin elascity level was determined in the more mature women.
However, others are scepcal about oral collagen supplements as
there is concern as to whether stomach acid breaks down the
collagen proteins before it can reach the skin. One concern is
that collagen molecules are too large to be absorbed into the
bloodstream. Some companies “shrink” the size of collagen, with
the concept that it becomes more easily absorbed by the body.
But crics of supplements point out that consuming collagen
doesn’t mean it gets converted into more collagen in our skin.
Even if the collagen makes it past the gut into the bloodstream,
you cannot control where it ends up. As much as you’d like the
collagen to focus on your face rather than your joints, it may not.
PREVENTION IS EASIER THAN CURE
One of the most important ways to care for exisng collagen and
elasn is to protect their deterioraon from the sun’s damaging
rays. This means wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen every single
day, no maer what the weather forecast is
predicng. Anoxidants in serums and creams can also help.
Powerhouse ingredients such as vitamins A, C, E, as well as green
tea and pomegranate work by blocking the damage caused by free
radicals, which aack collagen and elasn.
The most effecve way of protecng and smulang collagen and
elasn is by incorporang an approach that includes prevenon,
protecon, and treatments where all strategies work
synergiscally to achieving the best possible outcome. APJ
Leading solutions for
FACE AND BODY
ISSADA is a renowned clinical-strength
cosmeceucal formulaon with a strong
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range offers treatment soluons for face
and body, as well as an exceponal high
quality mineral makeup range. We profile
two of its latest product innovaons.
Collagen+ Support Serum
Issada’s Collagen+ Support Serum is
supercharged with vegan-friendly collagen
sourced from seaweed rather than derived
from animals as is the case with many
This concentrated formula has harnessed
the potency of just four pure, high-quality
acve ingredients – Hyaluronic acid,
Vegetable Collagen, Vitamin C and Radish
Root. The plant-based Marine Collagen
works to strengthen and repair the skin’s
natural collagen and elasn, while
anoxidant vitamin C and hydrang
Hyaluronic Acid brighten, plump and
moisturise restoring the skin’s vitality.
Radish Root acts as both an aninflammatory
and a natural preservave in
line with Issada’s clean cosmec promise.
Collagen+ Support Serum is ideal for dull,
dry, ageing, sun-damaged or pigmented
skin and is suitable for all skin types,
including sensive and acne-prone.
Bio-Slim Cellulite Treatment
While cellulite is completely normal for more than 90% of women and we firmly support
anyone who embraces it, for those who do wish to visibly reduce its appearance and tone
the skin, Issada has formulated a powerful breakthrough cream, Bio-Slim Cellulite
Bio-Slim contains an armoury of potent ingredients to reduce the appearance of cellulite
in a multude of ways. Longan Fruit Seed Extract inhibits the PAI-1 Protein, which is
increasingly produced as we get older. This decreases the formaon of blood supply to
adipose ssue, where lipids are stored. Bio-Slim Cellulite treatment will decrease the
appearance of lip deposits by up to 69%.
The inclusion of amino acid Threonine assists in breaking down fats so that the body can
metabolise and excrete them more easily.
The formula also includes the botanical extracts Laminaria Digitata (a type of seaweed
also known as Oar Weed), Fucus Vesiculosis (Sea Oak) Horsetail, Hedera Helix and
Cucumber. The acve combinaon of ingredients support fat metabolism, fluid retenon
and collagen producon to reduce the appearance of cellulite and visibly firm the skin.
Addionally, Bio-Slim Cellulite Treatment can be used immediately post-treatment aer
Cryolipolysis/Fat Freezing treatments and is essenal for any homecare roune posttreatment.
Issada is trusted and is trusted by 250+ professional salons, clinics and spas throughout
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CLEAN FORMULAS ADVANCED ACTIVES CRUELTY FREE AUSTRALIAN
THE CEO THAT IS DRIVING CHANGE
THROUGH A UNIQUE BUSINESS MODEL
IN EACH ISSUE OF APJ we love to share inspiraonal and heartwarming
stories of an APAN member and in this issue, we had the
pleasure of speaking with Carol Morgan, CEO of Cosmec Skin
Therapies, a cosmec medicine franchise.
Carol is an advocate for change and is making a difference in the
evolving cosmec medicine and aesthecs industry. She exudes
that perfect combinaon of gravitas, warmth, and passion that
comes with following what she believes in - in creang a company
from grassroots. Her smile lights up the room, and she has one of
those unique blends of determinaon combined with absolute
authencity that have seen her succeed throughout every stage of
Here we share with you Carol’s journey, her contribuon to
developing a new franchise business model that challenged the
cosmec medicine industry, and how she is leading the way when
it comes to having a voice and advocang for Registered Nurses
Cosmec Skin Therapies (CST) is the cosmec medicine franchise
that is changing the status quo through its unique business model
that is offering praconer-flexibility, while ensuring paents
opmal value, care and safety. Even though she is not a skin
therapist or cosmec nurse herself, Carol with the support of her
expert team, has pioneered and is the CEO of a unique business
model with the RNs in mind to ensure they have safe, flexible
businesses, while sll achieving their personal, financial and
Carol's story starts at the very early age of just 16, in Victroria.
APJ Q1: CAROL, TELL US ABOUT YOUR EARLY YEARS?
When I was 16, as a school leaver, I inially entered the working
world as a secretary. It was an experience that shaped the next
three decades because, in that role, I was sexually assaulted by my
boss and as such I resigned aer six short weeks.
The case was taken to court, and we had a public hearing. For me,
it was a nerve-wracking experience for a host of reasons. First, I
was just a teenage girl, fresh out of school and second, this was
the 80s. Sexual harassment and assault in the workplace was just
not spoken about.
We hear of these ripple effects, and that’s exactly what happened
when I spoke up. Australia had only recently passed laws making
sexual harassment illegal, and my case was one of the first in
Australia to test the newly minted laws.
Against the odds, I won my case which went on to set legal
precedent. Many people approached me to share that they had
similar experiences and to thank me for speaking up. My small
teenage voice helped achieve a change in the system for good. It
was, and sll is, one of my proudest achievements.
APJ Q2: WHAT HAPPENED FOLLOWING YOU WINNING
Throughout the trial itself, there was a lot of media coverage and
public interest which was quite overwhelming for a teenage girl!
The aenon was generally posive, and I was approached by the
board of directors at BHP who loved my determinaon, courage,
and ethics (their words not mine at the me!). I received a
'telegram' from the CEO of BHP Petroleum (BHPP), offering me a
posion and I subsequently spent the next 10 years of my career
working at BHPP.
I oen look back with pure joy at that pivotal moment that helped
launch my career and shaped me as a leader. I feel very privileged
to have worked with such visionary leaders and mentors that I sll
admire today. I didn’t start at BHPP with the idea that I would one
day be running departments single handedly and spearheading
organisaons, but that’s what happened as a result of the qualies
that BHP originally picked up on - my determinaon, courage and
In 2010, it was me for a fresh new challenge outside the
corporate world. I was offered a posion in Rockhampton, working
with the local government on a reclassificaon project. It was a
large, complex, and polical project where I had to manage
people's reacons to change, deal with the unions and work with
external and internal stakeholders for the best outcomes.
What can I say?! Working with such a diverse group of individuals
both internally and externally gave me some solid negoang
skills! Let’s just say the project was extremely successful, and I like
to think that my calm, methodical approach and innate people
skills helped achieve the desired outcomes.
APJ Q3: WHY HAS CST CREATED A BUSINESS MODEL THAT IS
SO VASTLY DIFFERENT FROM THE COSMETIC INJECTABLES
AND FACIAL AESTHETICS INDUSTRY, AND ALSO THE
CURRENT FRANCHISING BUSINESS MODEL?
In 2015, I was introduced to Paul and Jennifer Roa, and together
we founded Cosmec Skin Therapies. It was through Jennifer and
Paul that I began to learn more about the world of cosmec
injectables and how challenging it can be for registered nurses in
the industry. I could see that RNs really weren’t receiving the
recognion they deserve and being a determined and courageous
visionary, I began to formulate a plan.
We wanted to do things differently and challenge the status quo.
Over the course of my career, one of the things that became
apparent was that I was parcularly good at reviewing an
organisaon and idenfying gaps and where to make
improvements. In this instance it was an industry I was assessing,
and I was concerned with what I came across.
Cosmec Skin Therapies does everything differently. That was the
plan five years ago when we launched it, and sll is today. Not
only is our model beneficial for RNs, but also for any individual
entering the franchising industry.
We offer a low entry point, transparency around supplier rates and
rebates, a bespoke all-in-one, cloud-based treatment management
system that covers paent care and safety as well as everything
our franchisees need to run their business.
In addion, the Cosmec Skin Therapies model offers:
• Flexibility around the clinic locaon and working part me
versus full me, something franchisees with young families
• The opon to pick and choose which of the core treatments
franchisees offer in their own clinics, including Dermal Fillers,
An-wrinkle, Skin Needling, Threads, PRP, Medical Peels, K-
Laser, Fat Dissolving and IV and IMI Therapies
• The flexibility to provide wider facial aesthecs treatments.
• The ability to determine their own profitability by seng their
own treatment and product pricing.
• We have no markeng levy. Cosmec Skin Therapies provides
markeng and adversing to benefit all their franchisees.
• Ongoing training, support, and mentorship
• We are confident that Cosmec Skin Therapies will remain as
flexible as possible to aract the right franchisees.
APJ Q4: CAROL, YOU ARE ALSO A QUALIFIED AND
EXPERIENCED COUNSELOR, HOW HAVE YOU FOUND THOSE
SKILLS ADDING VALUE TO YOUR OWN ROLE MODEL AS CEO?
I passionately believe that people are at the forefront of any
successful business. Building and connuing to nurture your
relaonships, whether that is your team, network and even your
suppliers, is essenal, otherwise you will not succeed at business.
As a counsellor, you need to be present and hold space for others.
I’ve learnt that it is so important to listen and hear not only what is
being said, but also what is not being said. The issues not being
spoken about are the ones that need to be addressed. When I am
with someone, I'm present and connected - whether it's my
internal team, suppliers, or franchisees. If I am in a meeng, I am
APJ Q5: AS A MASTER FRANCHISOR, WHAT DO YOU SEE AS
YOUR CORE ROLE IN DELIVERING A SUCCESSFUL FRANCHISE
I believe that a successful network is one that engages at all levels.
A key focus for me is developing the relaonships with our
franchisees further, to ensure we are delivering on what was
promised and that our team all feel supported.
The thing I love most when interacng with our franchisees, is
watching their faces light up because they get to do business on
their terms. It's not just about making money. For many of our
franchisees, it’s around flexibility and connecng with their
The team and I have spent the last five years refining systems,
processes, building the right team members, having the right
suppliers and of course guiding the network through COVID-19. I
feel that the foundaons have been set, and now we’re ready and
able to handle exponenal growth.
APJ Q6: FINALLY, CAROL WHAT IS YOUR VISION FOR THE
I feel so passionate about what we have created at CST already
and I feel like a kid at Christmas, full of excitement at what’s to
come! Personally, I would love to connue being a voice for
change in the cosmec/aesthecs industry and push for equitable
opportunies for Registered Nurses. I also want to demonstrate a
need for change in the franchise industry, using CST's franchise
model as a new way of doing franchise business.
My goal for Cosmec Skin Therapies is to become synonymous
with paent care and safety. We are truly building a brand where
paents feel safe, seen, heard, and can have their treatments in a
discreet clinical seng. These are concerns that come up me and
me again in our industry, and we would like to lead the way with
Finally, I feel strongly about building a brand that people trust.
When paents visit a Cosmec Skin Therapies clinic, we want
them to feel and know that they are in good hands. Trust and
honesty feature highly on our values list and we want the world to
know about what’s possible. APJ
To follow Carol Morgan and her journey for what she is
pioneering and advocang, please connect with her on LinkedIn
and to find out more about the country’s best kept secret, visit
for mind, skin,
AS A GENERAL RULE CITRUS OILS are purifying, but also
contribute to a calming and relaxing effect on the mind, and
without excepon bergamot oil has some incredible benefits in
these areas. In this arcle we will examine its nootropic effect on
the mind and other ways that we can use it to support wellbeing
and skin health.
Bergamot is a fragrant citrus fruit, that’s about the size of an
orange with a yellowish-green blush. Similar to a lime, its genec
profile is a hybrid of lemon and bier orange. This acidic and
inedible fruit hails from a spiny tree called a citrus bergamia, which
can be found in tropical climates in Southeast Asia, Southern Italy
and the South of France. Blossoming in the winter, the fruit is
culvated for its fragrant skin (not to be eaten) which is then
typically pressed for its precious oil. The peel has a delicate citrus/
floral aroma that is sweet and spicy and is featured in a variety of
perfumes due to its upliing and energising effect. You may also
recognise its characterisc flavour in Earl Grey tea.
In aromatherapy, the oil has proven upliing and energising
effects, supports the central nervous system, soothes anxiety, and
ameliorang over thinking. For the skin, it is beneficial for acne
skin types due to its an-bacterial properes and is also useful for
mature skin for its ability to increase circulaon and regenerate
the skin. Addionally, it also has several other health benefits.
Bergamot Essenal oil is composed of various chemical
constuents including a-pinene, myrcene, limonene, a-bergaptene,
b-bisabolene, linalool, linalyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, geraniol,
geraniol acetate, and a-terpineol.
According to a study from 2010 published in the Journal of
Chemistry and Chemical Engineering, the oil has around forty-six
compounds. However, the authors concluded that fieen
compounds account for 98.52% of the oil. The oil was
characterised by a high content of limonene (59.21%), linalool
(9.51%) and linalyl acetate (16.83%).
HOW DOES BERGAMOT BENEFIT THE NERVOUS SYSTEM?
Among other things bergamot is also known to exhibit nootropic
effect – this is an important one. Nootropics are a classificaon of
smart drugs that are considered cognive enhancers. They are
also found in supplements and other substances that claim to
improve cognive funcon, parcularly execuve funcons such
as memory, creavity, or movaon in healthy individuals.
These substances provide a range of benefits that allow for
increased mental performance, endurance, balance, and even
higher levels of awareness and creavity. Addionally, studies
confirm that nootropics can potenally provide protecon from
Highlighted below is a closer look at the nootropic effects of
bergamot essenal oil and how this fragrant substance can
increase mental capacity.
Stress triggered in the body does have benefits, by alerng us to
danger and allowing for increased focus, and even fuelling
incredible feats of stamina and endurance. On the other hand,
prolonged periods of elevated stress can begin to have the
Cognive funcon can be severely hampered by stress-induced
anxiety that can also contribute to mood disorders. When this
happens, the mind can no longer maintain its composure and
resilience. Fears, worries, and feelings of inadequacy lend their
weight to the stressful outlook, which negavely affects focus and
even short-term memory.
Studies confirm that bergamot essenal oil is capable of
interrupng the cycle of stress, restoring mental funcon and the
capacity to focus. Aromatherapy using bergamot essenal oil can
also balance the mood and improve emoonal responses.
Another important task of a good nootropic such as bergamot is
its ability to maintain the funcon of neural pathways and keep
the brain healthy. Today’s pressures and demands place an
unprecedented strain on mental facules, and without protecon,
degenerave diseases can develop.
Oxidave stress is the medical term for damage caused by free
radicals and has been associated with depression, heart
condions, cancer, Parkinson’s,and Hunngton’s diseases, as well
as ageing in general.
Clinical evidence suggests nootropic effects of bergamot essenal
oil have the proper natural compounds to inhibit oxidave stress,
especially in the spinal column. The same study also found
bergamot essenal oils have properes that can counteract the
increased sensivity to pain caused by prolonged use of
analgesics, called hyperalgesia.
A small 2015 study conducted on women in Japan found that
inhaled bergamot oil mixed with water vapour reduced feelings of
anxiety and fague. Similarly, a 2013 study also reported that
aromatherapy with bergamot (among other essenal oils) can
relieve depression, anxiety and other mood disorders by signalling
the brain to release dopamine and serotonin.
With on-going stress related condions on the rise in our industry,
bergamot can be a useful tool to help calm relax and alleviate
stress and tension. A relaxing massage using a 3% blend bergamot
essenal in a carrier oil would be ideal. Addionally, you can also
massage the scalp or introduce it for inhalaon during a treatment.
BERGAMOT AND THE SKIN
When it comes to the skin bergamot oil has several benefits. For
example, several compounds in bergamot oil have anbacterial
and an-inflammatory properes. This makes bergamot oil useful
for acne prone condions that are not sensive. The bacterium
• Staphylococcus aureus
• Listeria monocytogenes
• Bacillus cereus
• E. coli O157
• Campylobacter jejuni
bergamot may help to reduce overall cholesterol and “bad” LDL
cholesterol. It may also help to increase “good” HDL cholesterol
and has the potenal to be an effecve supplement to cholesterol
RISKS TO CONSIDER WHEN USING BERGAMOT OIL
Bergamot essenal oil can be irritang to the skin in some people,
especially when it is not diluted with a carrier oil. Essenal oils,
including bergamot oil, can somemes cause allergic dermas.
Addionally, bergamot is also photo-sensising so it should be
avoided when skin is exposed to direct sunlight. Symptoms of an
allergic reacon or sensivity to bergamot oil may include:
• burning sensaon
To ensure safety, it is advisable to conduct a patch test prior to
using bergamot essenal and always use it diluted in a carrier oil.
It is also important to check for bergamot oil’s interacon with any
medicaons before using. It is therefore advisable to gain medical
approval to ensure that any medicaons your client is taking
would not interfere with essenal oils.
Research points to bergamot essenal oil’s ability to reduce
inflammaon, lower cholesterol levels, and increase posive
mood. Its pleasant and upliing aroma can offer numerous
benefits for mental and emoonal support as well as skin health
when used with the appropriate precauonary measures. APJ
Study findings suggested that bergamot essenal oil may be
effecve when used against these types of bacteria. Addional
studies are also on-going. Another consideraon when it comes
to acne, is the analgesic properes of bergamot that may also
make it effecve against painful cysts and pimples.
BERGAMOT OILS FOR HAIR
Bergamot oil enthusiasts (and people who love so, lightly scented
hair), swear by this essenal oil’s ability to soen and tame curls.
Anecdotal evidence indicates that bergamot oil may also be
soothing to an irritated scalp. To use, put a few drops in your
usual shampoo. You can also mix one to two drops with a
tablespoon of carrier oil and massage it into your scalp as an
USING BERGAMOT OIL WITH OTHER ESSENTIAL OILS
In terms of blending with other oils bergamot is very compable
when mixed with:
• Lavender oil: Combined with bergamot, lavender oil can create
a beauful classic fragrance to enhance relaxaon and lower
• Tea tree oil: Combining bergamot with tea tree oil would be an
excellent blend to fight acne and support the skin through the
combined an-bacterial acon.
• Chamomile oil: When combining bergamot and chamomile
you can both induce calmness and mood elevaon – a good
one to have handy in the salon or clinic.
You will also find bergamot available in supplement form, this is
because several studies have shown that the flavonoids found in
PICOHI 300 PICOSECOND LASER SYSTEM:
An effecve soluon for treang
PICOHI developed by Hironic, safely
implements a 300-picosecond pulse
duraon, and has opened a new paradigm
in the effecve treatment of pigment
THE CONVENTIONAL TREATMENT
APPROACH TO PIGMENT DISORDERS
was dominated by the Q-switched laser
toning. However, the laser toning
treatment has some drawbacks: the dark
spots do not easily fade away, even aer
more than 10 treatments, and it takes a
long me to achieve noceable results. In
the aesthec laser market, there has been
various aempts to overcome the
limitaons of treang pigment disorders
and to improve treatment outcomes. One
of the soluons was the 'picoseconddomain
laser system,' which uses
picoseconds to overcome some of these
In this arcle Dr. Cha Hyung-Gi explains
how Hironic's picosecond laser can be
used to effecvely treat pigmentaon,
scars and other skin abnormalies.
Picosecond laser systems are based on the
unit of picoseconds, which means one
trillionth of a second. Picosecond laser
systems deliver high dose rate irradiaon
to treat pigment spots within a short
period of me by eming laser beams
1000 mes faster compared to
nanosecond laser systems. Therefore, you
can see noceable results with a small
number of treatments and minimiSe the
skin ssue damage around the treatment
area or any other side-effects.
This advantage has allowed the
picosecond laser systems to have steadily
grown as a new laser treatment method with worldwide aenon in recent years.
Nevertheless, it is actually difficult to see proper treatment effects with the convenonal
picosecond laser systems because the system stability or durability cannot be guaranteed.
A picosecond laser system with a pulse duraon closer to 300 ps can deliver a higher,
more precise laser irradiaon rate and can obtain beer treatment outcomes. PICOHI
implements 300ps pulse duraon with stable output and is gaining aenon as a suitable
device for toning treatments.
PICOHI is a combinaon of the Nd:YAG laser system and a pigment laser system, which
can be used for two types of treatments. The system is compable with both the MLA
(Micro Lens Array) handpiece and DOE (Diffracve Opcal Element) handpiece. It is
composed of various handpieces which include DOE handpiece with two wavelengths of
532nm and 1064 nm, depth adjustable VMLA handpiece, and spot size adjustable ZMLA
PICOHI can reduce the treatment period by using the 300 per second pulse duraon to
break pigments into smaller parcles compared to the convenonal system. The new
system can selecvely destroy melanin pigments within the treatment area that allows for
treatments with a low risk of side-effects, such as hyperpigmentaon.
NOT JUST FOR PIGMENTATION
PICOHI also acvates the skin regeneraon and helps the treatment of pores or scars by
facilitang the creaon of collagen and elasn through the Laser Induced Opcal
Breakdown (LIOB) mechanism that uses the MLA technique to form ny scars. By using
the PICOHI, you can reduce complex age spots, freckles, or other blemish spots, as well as
treat intractable pigment disorders or remove taoos or permanent makeup. Due to the
fast treatment effect with a small number of treatments, it can be a perfect treatment
method for various paent needs.
There were mes when dark spots no longer responded to the convenonal laser toning
treatment no maer how many mes it is given. The market was also experiencing
treatment limits due to the risk of side-effects that may occur when the irradiaon dose
increases. However, PICOHI, which implements a 300ps pulse duraon, has been
launched at the perfect me. The expectaon for the new pigment disorders treatment
mechanism and the clinical growth that will be brought about by PICOHI is something to
look forward to. APJ
First published in The Prime (Internaonal journal of Aesthec and An-Ageing Medicine),
Mar/Apr 2020 USA edion
For more informaon visit vvww.clinicalpro.com.au
WHY WE NEED
TO RETURN TO
WITH THE EXTENSIVE ADVANCES IN TECHNOLOGY within our
industry, especially lasers and IPLs, we have seen the progressive
decline of tacle services. While those who have studied beauty
therapy have been trained in facial manual techniques, others
such as cosmec nurses and even dermal therapists, lile
aenon has oen been given to tacle techniques as part of
standard facial training.
Over the past 12 months, several reliable reports that have
surveyed consumer trends, and even through our own industry
feedback, have clearly idenfied the return in demand of tacle
services, such as massage both for face and body.
COVID-19 has promoted the need for social distancing and the
need to refrain from touching others. However, one of the primary
manifestaons of kindness involves human touch. In this arcle I
will outline why touch is important and how it can help us beer
manage stress hormones, such as our corsol levels.
THE BENEFITS OF TOUCH
Physical, non-sexual touch is oen taken for granted. However, it
not only helps us feel good, it also plays a crical role in healing.
There are numerous studies that confirm the power of touch in
supporng health, wellbeing and even our ability to heal from
Many years ago, I remember reading an arcle about babies born
during World War II. Sciensts experimented on a several
orphaned babies. During that me, they observed two sets of
infants. One group of babies had all their vital needs met, but in
addion to their physical needs, they also received the comfort of
reassuring words and physical touch. The other set of babies only
received care for their daily needs. They did not receive the
benefits of kind words or physical touch. Other than having their
diapers changed and being given nutrion, these babies were le
in cribs all day without any form of communicaon. They began to
lose weight and became sickly while the babies receiving aenve
care, grew and thrived. Doctors noted the importance of physical
touch and observed the role it played in the mental, emoonal
health and development of these children.
When it comes to wound healing there have been many studies
that have provided evidence of the healing power of touch. Those
in the medical field are finding healthful benefits for paents in
the form of nonverbal communicaon such as a pat on the hand, a
gentle hug, or some form of skin-to-skin contact. In fact, the
healing power of physical touch can be measured. Doctors have
found, through laboratory tests such as MRIs, that there are
evident changes in the paerns of brain acvity during touch.
Certain types of endorphins are released, these endorphins
combat stress hormones resulng in a sense of relaxaon and
Another study involved two dogs - each had incurred a wound.
They were both fed well, and their wounds treated. However, one
dog was regularly paed and hugged, while the other was not
subjected to any physical touch. Aer several weeks, the wound
on the dog that received physical touch had totally healed, while
the other dog’s wound was almost unchanged.
CORTISOL LEVELS AND STRESS MANAGEMENT
To help us beer understand stress management it is helpful to
review the role of corsol. As we know, corsol is a hormone that
helps manage some basic bodily funcons. It's an important
chemical that manages blood sugar (glucose), reduces
inflammaon, and controls blood pressure, among other opons.
Corsol is oen referred to as the “stress hormone,” because it
becomes more abundant when we are faced with a stressful
situaon. It affects the heart rate, breathing paerns, and other
aspects of the body’s “fight or flight” response. However, corsol
does more than we probably realise.
WHAT IS CORTISOL AND ITS PURPOSE?
Right above each kidney is a small but important gland known as
an adrenal gland. The adrenal glands produce some important
hormones, including adrenaline and corsol. Most cells in your
body have corsol receptors, meaning the cells absorb and use
corsol. But corsol is used differently in different parts of the
The short list of corsol’s jobs in the body include:
• Manage blood sugar (glucose) levels
• Reduce inflammaon
• Manage blood pressure
• Control metabolism
• Assist with memory formaon
CORTISOL AND SLEEP
The rhythm of corsol producon by the adrenal glands is also a
factor in your sleep roune. Too much corsol in the bloodstream
at night makes it harder to fall asleep. Low levels of the hormone
in the morning can make it tough to get out of bed. In fact, having
a healthy variaon of corsol levels throughout the day is
associated with beer health.
Corsol is naturally high in the morning to help perk you up, and it
decreases into the evening. The loss of this cycle, or the lack of
variaon of corsol, is what is associated with negave health
outcomes, and this has been confirmed in many studies.
A recent study found higher risks of inflammaon and immune
system problems in people who had lile variaon throughout the
day in their corsol levels. Condions such as fague, depression,
and even cancer were more likely among people whose corsol
cycles were abnormal, as well as a higher suscepbility to viruses
Geng a massage, a lile regular exercise each day and
establishing a consistent bedme and wake-up me are some easy
ways you can start to establish healthy corsol producon.
CORTISOL AND OUR FIGHT OR FLIGHT RESPONSE
In addion to helping manage some of your body’s basic funcons,
corsol is linked to your stress response as well. So, what is
corsol doing when you encounter a stressful situaon?
One of the chief funcons of corsol is to prepare the body during
stressful situaons—a “fight or flight” moment. When you feel
threatened, the adrenal glands start pumping out corsol, causing
your muscles to tense and your breathing and heart rates to
increase. All of this happens faster than your brain can fully
comprehend a situaon, allowing you to, for example, jump out of
the way of an oncoming car.
If you need to flee a life-threatening situaon, rising levels of
corsol (and other hormones, such as epinephrine, also known as
adrenaline) in your bloodstream will help you escape. If you need
to stay and fight off a threat, your body’s response to the flood of
hormones will help give you strength and energy for the conflict.
Unfortunately, living in a constant state of stress and anxiety
perpetuated by uncertain mes, such as the ones that we are
currently living in, can boost corsol levels where they remain
constantly locked into overdrive. This can lead to a high risk of
chronic health condions
Studies confirm that when corsol levels remain elevated, as is the
case with so many people who are under constant stress, the
ability to reproduce can suffer greatly, making it more difficult to
conceive. However, these effects of corsol in both men and
women are reversed when stress levels go down.
It’s also possible to have too lile corsol. Each condion can be
problemac. A condion such as Addison’s disease causes a
shortage of circulang corsol. Too lile corsol can lead to
muscle weakness, fague, nausea, and pain in the abdomen.
Low corsol levels are also associated with behaviour issues. A
University of Chicago study of pre-adolescent boys found that low
levels of corsol in saliva may affect how they respond to stressful
situaons and even how they perceive the consequences of acng
out as a response to stress.
“Boys with consistently lower corsol levels may not be as afraid
of retribuon,” says Keith Burne, PhD, a psychology professor
with the University of Chicago and author of the study. “In many
aggressive children, the system that responds to the threat of
punishment does not react normally. They may not feel stress in
the same way and so they don’t avoid stressful situaons.”
COPING WITH CORTISOL ISSUES
You can be prescribed corcosteroids if you have low corsol
levels. And if you are chronically stressed, therapy and relaxaon
training, meditaon and massage may help bring down corsol
levels in your blood.
medicaon to your clients, you can introduce them to a relaxaon
massage that can further support the body when combined with
the use of a few proven essenal oils. Here are nine of the most
researched essenal oils for lowering corsol levels:
1. Lavender: When you consider the true picture of relaxaon,
the light floral aroma of lavender oen comes to mind.
Lavender not only helps to induce relaxaon it is also proven
excellent in helping to lower corsol levels. One study
measuring the elevated anxiety and corsol levels of paents
having open-heart surgery idenfied a 69% reducon in blood
corsol levels when they received an aromatherapy treatment
using lavender oil.
2. Bergamot: The bright and clean scent of bergamot essenal oil
makes it a popular opon for relaxaon. A handful of studies
Poorly controlled corsol levels are associated with mental health
disorders, including anxiety and depression, though the
significance of this relaonship is sll not clearly understood.
If you have quesons or concerns about corsol levels, or an
inability to cope with stress, it is also advisable to talk with your
doctor. Corsol can be screened with a blood test and a saliva
test. There are even patches with sensors that can measure the
corsol in persperaon. Corsol is a helpful hormone for a lot of
reasons but making sure you’re producing the right levels at the
right mes is important for your physical and mental health.
MASSAGE AND CORTISOL LEVELS
If you do not offer massage, either incorporated in your facial
treatments, or you do not offer body massage, you may wish to
rethink your treatment menu. Many research projects conducted
by the Touch Research Instute in Miami show that not only do
people feel beer aer receiving massage but when their levels of
corsol are tested, they are significantly lower in those who have
received a massage!
Personally, I have found that a gentle, nurturing massage rather
than a remedial deep ssue massage has been able to not only
lower my corsol levels, but also raise my haemoglobin levels in
my red blood cells, which is a blessing for me, as I have hereditary
Massage can play a huge role in helping your body find that state
of non-stress. This is the place where you can get the rest you
need to build your immune system, re-build cells and where your
digesve system can focus on what it needs to do.
SIMPLE STRATEGIES FOR LOWERING CORTISOL LEVELS THE
If you wish to idenfy symptoms of high levels of corsol look for
the following symptoms:
• High blood pressure
• Flushed face
• Muscle weakness
• Increased thirst and urinaon
• Changes in mood
• Rapid weight gain
• Decreased sex drive
All the above symptoms can occur when your body is producing
too much corsol. While you may not be able to prescribe
have been conducted to examine the potenal bergamot oil
benefits. For those who want to learn how to lower your
corsol levels naturally, bergamot is an excellent place to
begin (please also check further informaon on bergamot on
pages 60-61. A 2015 study looked at three disnct groups of
individuals. One group received rest, the next group received
rest and water vapour, and the final group received rest, water
vapour, and bergamot essenal oil. Aer fieen minutes of
exposure to their assigned treatment, researchers took saliva
samples to measure corsol levels. They determined that
parcipants who received rest, water vapour, and bergamot
essenal oil for a short period of me had the most significant
decrease in their salivary corsol levels.
3. Neroli: Neroli, sourced from the blossoms of the bier orange
tree, is another common floral scent that is considered to
reduce stress. The research regarding how neroli essenal oil
works within the body is sll growing, but there are a number
of studies that already demonstrate its efficacy. One study
looked at the stress levels of postmenopausal women who
inhaled neroli oil for five minutes twice daily and those who
inhaled almond oil. At the conclusion of the study, the women
who received the neroli essenal oil had lower blood pressure,
improved pulse rates, lower corsol serum and improved
4. Orange: Using the sweet aroma of this orange citrus fruit can
be a very relaxing way to lower your corsol levels. A 2012
study compared orange essenal oil to other substances
including water and tea tree essenal oil. Parcipants were
assigned to groups who inhaled one of these three substances
and then given an anxiety-producing exam. Those who
received the orange essenal oil had less subjecve tension
and greater calm through the exam. Just a few drops are
enough to see the tremendous benefits of using sweet orange
essenal oils for lowing corsol levels.
5. Cedarwood: Those who are searching for a classic essenal oil
that can help them feel grounded and calm may want to reach
for a bole of cedarwood. This balmy scent brings you straight
back to nature and can help to soothe anxious nerves. In fact,
there is even research to prove that cedarwood essenal oil
truly does calm down the body – this is one of my favourites!
Test subjects were given cedarwood essenal oil to inhale via
a face mask while researchers measured their heart rate and
blood pressure. It significantly decreased the heart rate,
systolic blood pressure and diastolic blood pressure of
parcipants in this group.
6. Ylang Ylang: Dri off into sweet slumber or unwind in the
bathtub with a few drops of this relaxing essenal oil. Ylang
ylang essenal oil has a calming effect that can easily spread
throughout your enre body. Researchers took a look at what
happens to paents who are considered to be prehypertensive
and hypertensive when exposed to an aromatherapy
treatment. Parcipants inhaled lavender, ylang-ylang, neroli,
and marjoram for 24 hours. At the end of the treatment, this
group had lower systolic blood pressure, dayme blood
pressure, and less stress.
7. Marjoram: This one is another favourite of mine. Marjoram oil
is a lile different than many of the other essenal oils on our
ranking. Most people can idenfy this oil for its herbaceous
scent instead of the heady floral aromas that signify many of
the more popular relaxing oils. Despite this major difference,
marjoram is sll a major player when it comes to reducing
8. Rosemary: Rosemary is similar to marjoram in its scent profile
and is also considered to be a powerful ally for lowering
corsol. It lowers free radical damage and helps the body gain
equilibrium. While helping to lower corsol rosemary is also
known as one of the best oils to assist concentraon and
9. Clary Sage: Clary sage essenal oil is another important tool
that you can use to reduce corsol naturally. Much like many
of the other oils menoned here, inhalaon of the clary sage
oil is really all it takes to begin reaping the benefits. When you
feel like you are ready to unwind for the day, place a few drops
in your diffuser and enjoy. In a 2014 study, menopausal
women who were considered to be either normal, or to have a
depression tendency were exposed to a clary sage
aromatherapy treatment. Corsol levels decreased
significantly aer this exposure, and it was found to have an
andepressant-like effect on the women in the study.
I am sure you would agree with me that high stress and corsol
levels will remain prevalent in the months, and the years to come.
In reviewing your treatment menu, thoughully consider
introducing stress reducon strategies in your treatment opons.
They will most definitely be welcomed by your clients, and allow
you to add an extra layer of support to their wellbeing and your
overall skin treatment outcomes. APJ
AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN
THE APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE
had some amazing content with robust
educaon. These sessions are now also
available for purchase as individual
videos or as packages.
Each video runs for 30 minutes to 40
minutes with Professor Laurence Walsh’s
session running for one hour.
We have had requests from business
owners who are keen to purchase some
of the conference videos to include as
part of their training library resources.
If you wish to purchase any of the videos,
please visit the website
www.apanconf.com. You will idenfy the
booking form with the various sessions
outlined. If you wish to gain further
informaon on the learning objecves of
each lecture, please go to the PROGRAM
field at the top of the page and view all
the segment topics. Select the ones you
wish to purchase. If you wish to see the
speakers first, you can also check these
You can purchase one video, or several.
We have put together some packages,
however, if you require more, please
contact us on 07 5593 0360 or email:
firstname.lastname@example.org to discuss.
Alternavely, you can complete an order
form and pay directly from the
conference website: www.apanconf.com.
Just ck the ones you wish to purchase
and finalise your payment. These are
great value for staff training or for your
1. Purchase an individual video of your
choice: Cost: $29.99
2. Purchase five videos of your choice
Cost: $24.99 each
3. Purchase a set of 10 videos of your
choice Cost: 19.99 each
APAN connues to provide you with
addional support and value. APJ
SUNDAY 17th & MONDAY 18th
Due to COVID-19 restricon in Sydney
the PCC two-day educaonal event has
changed its locaon from Sydney to
Brisbane. The event will showcase PMU,
Beauty and Business demos from leaders
in the industry. Set in two rooms, arsts
will taoo live on stage for at least one
hour or show a video presentaon of
their work. PCC is a collecon for up to
20 mini master-classes, covering topics
that our industry needs. Arsts will share
their secrets at this event so you can
improve your skills. You can get up close,
record and even bring your own machine
to taoo along with the speaker. The
event will also include networking
This secon presents the latest news, training dates and other
Aesthec Industry informaon
opportunies and the chance to make
friends within the industry. APJ
health had goen worse during the
• Social media has become one of the
NEW CONSUMER FOCUS
IT WOULD APPEAR that COVID-19 has
changed consumer habits with an
increasing interest in cleansing their skin.
A global survey conducted by skincare
brand CeraVe revealed that 64% of
individuals who parcipated in the survey
revealed that skin cleansing has become
very important, and they have upgraded
their roune. The survey was conducted
online across 23 countries and achieved
over 10,100 respondents. 64% of the
people globally stated that their cleansing
roune has changed during the past 12
months. Here are some of the findings of
• Overwhelmingly, 90% of respondents
reported that their daily life had been
impacted by changes that affected
their skin health both in posive and
• Two-thirds (64%) of respondents
reporng that their cleansing rounes
had significantly changed compared
to their pre-pandemic habits. They
stated that they now cleanse with
more care and more regularly.
• 19% of women said that their skin
main sources for skincare advice as
44% of respondents went online for
skincare advice more oen in the past
year (including women 55% and men
• 48% of respondents said that they
turned to press and online sources for
facial cleansing advice, making it the
first source of informaon, followed
• Significantly, 79% agreed that you can
end up damaging your skin if you
follow the wrong type of advice, with
67% agreeing that skincare advice
you find online is not always accurate.
• Inaccurate advice oen leads to
cleansing misconcepons which can
damage the skin barrier. Supported
by the following stascs:
- 42% of respondents only use water to
cleanse their faces.
- 69% of respondents use a mix of hot
and warm water to cleanse their faces.
- 30% of respondents think that cleansing
cannot help in maintaining their skin
SKINCARE: THE MOST
OUR GENERAL SKINCARE NEEDS have
changed with the COVID-19 pandemic.
Due to social isolaon, we use makeup
less oen. We pay more aenon to skin
health, and look for ways to eliminate
discoloraon, moisturise it and assure its
healthy glow. So, which skin care
ingredients were most popular in 2020
according to Google searches?
The Brish website cultbeauty.co.uk has
compiled a list of the 20 most popular
skin care ingredients of 2020 by the
largest number of Google searches –
where the first three on the list got over
500,000 each. Natural ingredients are all
the rage in 2020 and beyond:
• In the first place is vitamin C, which
turned out to be an absolute hit. Skin
care products containing vitamin C
help fight skin discoloraon, ensure
its firmness and natural glow and
inhibit ageing were the most
researched and accessed.
• The second place was taken by
renol, currently the most effecve
an-wrinkle substance. Its posion in
2021 is threatened by bakuchiol –
the natural alternave to renol,
which was considered the more
organic counterpart, useful to help
acne management, pigmentaon and
AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN
signs of ageing as well as for
excessive sebum secreon.
• Castor oil is ranked third. This natural
ingredient has been known for a long
me, and the interest in organic
products that boost regeneraon has
only increased during the pandemic.
Castor oil is used in home treatments
in order to promote eyebrow and
eyelash growth and restore nail
cucles. The remaining places in the
top 10 include: hyaluronic acid,
squalane, salicylic acid, benzoyl
peroxide, witch hazel, niacinamide
and ceramides. APJ
current (no-makeup) makeup trend –
Glam with a more natural twist. APJ
(+250.0%): changes the appearance
or shape of the belly buon.
• RIB REMOVAL: (+182.4%):
commonly performed on people who
want to achieve an hourglass look.
• GYNAECOMASTIA: (+174.1%): the
removal of male breast ssues or
• POKERTOX: (+133.3%): a
combinaon of botulinum and facial
fillers specifically designed to
enhance a gambling player’s ‘poker
• COOLSCULPTING: (+125.0%): a nonsurgical
method of destroying adipose
ssue aka fat freezing.
• DIMPLEPLASTRY: (+120.0%): creates
dimples on the cheeks or chin.
THE ’90S GLAMOUR IS
AND JUST FOR A BIT OF CHEER when it
comes to makeup for this winter the lost
magic of the '90s supermodel has been
The makeup trend-seers have taken
beauty looks worn by Linda Evangelista,
Cindy Crawford, and Naomi Campbell
and are bringing them to 2021 trends.
Here is how to achieve the look:
• EYES: Mae brown shadows and full
• BROWS: Slightly arched with some
• LIPS: Deeper nudes with a slight
gloss, or a translucent red.
• SKIN: Not too mae and not too
glowy, just a nice san finish.
The new look falls right in line with the
BY GROWTH RATE
JUST IN CASE YOU THOUGHT that
COVID-19 has dampened consumer
interest in cosmec and plasc surgery
procedures in Australia, take a look at the
stats below. The data was analysed over
a two year period 2019-2021.
• BUCCAL FAT REMOVAL:
(+309.1%): the removal of cheek fat
to give the appearance of a thinner,
more contoured face
• TONGUE SPLITTING: (+90.0%): a
type of oral body modificaon that
involves spling the tongue in half
to create a ‘forked tongue’ look.
• EAR PINNING: (+84.6%): also called
otoplasty, this is performed to pin
back, or reduce the size.
• FAT GRAFTING: (+84.6%): moving a
person’s own fat cells from one part
of the body to another area. Fat
graing restores youthful contours,
making the area fuller and more
Top Cosmec Procedures by Search Volume
TOTAL 861,850 1,103,100 58.9% 27.99%
lip filler 117,800 158,200 49.4% 34.30%
gynecomasa 95,400 142,900 174.1% 49.79%
127,600 138,600 22.2% 8.62%
eyebrow taoo 96,600 127,500 50.0% 31.99%
coolsculpng 85,700 106,100 125.0% 23.80%
tummy tuck 68,000 87,300 50.0% 28.38%
abiaplasty 58,800 68,100 83.3% 15.82%
breast implants 55,900 55,900 22.2% 0.00%
cheek filler 43,300 50,200 50.0% 15.94%
16,160 42,300 309.1% 161.76%
This secon presents the latest news, training dates and other
Aesthec Industry informaon
“If you can’t explain it
simply, you don’t
understand it well enough”
TWO NEW PROGRAMS
Online Study Units
Upskill your knowledge, grow your confidence, enhance
Mentoring Program: Shadowing Gay
An excing one-on-one mentoring program. Learn the
winning protocols to grow your reputaon and your
If you are a Nurse, Dermal Therapist or a Beauty
Therapist wanng to expand your knowledge or
returning to the industry, these training programs
are for you!
QUEENSLAND LASER LICENCE
If you require to complete your supervised hours, or
your laser licence, this training is now available.
+61 418 708 455
MENTORING PROGRAM SCHEDULE
Review quesons completed by the work shadow.
Discuss 7 Habits of Highly Successful Salon Owners
Gay’s Signature Skin Analysis – the secret weapon
Learn how this vital step can set you and your client up for
successful treatment outcomes
Skin treatment program
Prescripon of skin products
Starng point and protocols for tracking progress.
Work Shadow Gay while she performs treatments on clients
Review learning from the previous day.
Discuss 7 Habits of Highly Successful Salon Owners – what did
you see yesterday?
Work Shadow Gay while she performs treatments on clients
Work Shadow Gay while she performs treatments on clients
Reflecons and check-out
Queson and answer me.
Work Shadow Gay while she performs treatments on clients
Reflecons and check-out
Reflecon wring and learning objecves.
AS WE VENTURE FURTHER INTO BEAUTIFYING SERVICES that
can literally transform someone’s appearance the appeal to
promote and adverse what our services can deliver becomes very
tempng. However, there are rules and regulatory guidelines
about how you go about doing this and they all have to do with
the issue of “misleading” the public as to what is possible through
the services you provide.
On the 4th May the Australian Health Praconers Regulaon
Agency (AHPRA) updated its adversing guidelines for 2021. All
medical and cosmec medical procedures are governed by these
guidelines and non-compliance can result in fines.
If you are working collaboravely with a cosmec doctor or nurse
who are providing cosmec injectable services in your premises
you have-a-duty-of-care to your clients to familiarise yourself with
these rules and ensure that any services delivered under your roof
are conducon in compliance with ALL, the regulatory
requirements - that also includes the way that these services are
adversed and promoted to your clients. Please note that under
vicarious liability a client can also sue you if something goes wrong
and does not meet with their expectaons.
To protect you in this regard APAN has a special Compliance Kit
for Cosmec Injectables that outlines everything you need to
know about your obligaons and how to screen anyone who will
be providing these services in your premises. However, in this
arcle I will highlight some of the changes and requirements.
WHY DO I NEED TO COMPLY?
At this point you might be thinking, “I don’t work with a nurse or
doctor, so why do I need to consider the AHPRA guidelines, as I
am not a medical praconer?”
The answer to that is quite simply, that if you are providing any
services that improve someone’s appearance and presenng
before and aer photos of the treatment outcomes you deliver, you
will be compeng to some extent with the services delivered
within cosmec medicine clinics. Therefore, your clients will need
to be assured that the results you can achieve are presented
truthfully and that any before and aer photos have met with the
strictest ethical and regulatory guidelines for authencity and
NEW GUIDELINES FOR NON-MEDICAL PRACTITIONERS
If you are a non-medical praconer APAN has developed in July
2021 new industry best pracce guidelines for adversing and
‘before and aer’ photos. These guidelines support arcle 25 of
the APAN Code of Ethics - “ensure that your adversing is truthful,
honest and meets with the ethical and regulatory guidelines or
permied claims. Avoid any exaggerated claims. Your adversing
should not bring your profession into disrepute.” To this arcle we
have now added “ensure you are familiar and abide by the APAN
Adversing and Promoonal Guidelines”.
While injecng may be outside your scope of pracce, your
services and pracces must be aligned with the standards required
by cosmec medical praconers when promong treatment
expectaons and outcomes.
In brief, let us look at some of the AHPRA guidelines:
ADVERTISING, REVIEWS, AND TESTIMONIALS
First, what is ‘adversing’? AHPRA states that their definion of
adversing includes but is not limited to all forms of verbal,
printed or electronic public communicaon that promotes a
regulated health service provider to aract a person to the
provider (praconer or business). These includes plaorms such
• Facebook and social plaorms
• Google My Business
• Your business website
• Specialist registraons
• Before and aer images
• Gis and Incenves
These may also include:
• Television or cinema, radio
• Newspapers, flyers
• Books (if the book is
promong a parcular
regulated health service)
• Pictorial representaon
• Office signs
As a rule, AHPRA does not
approve the use of
tesmonials in your
adversing. What that means
is that if you are promong a
parcular service, including a
tesmonial next to it, is not
permied regardless of the
plaorm you are using,
including social media. What
is permied is for a tesmony
on the professionalism of the
praconer, the level of
excellence of the services
provided and how friendly
and helpful the staff are –
such statements are
permied, but statements
that say, “my results with my laser treatment were phenomenal,
improved my pigmentaon,” etc, especially if you are promong
that treatment in your adversing.
However, on social media if a client goes into a chat group and
shares with others about their wonderful experience and results
independent of any of your adversing, that is permied.
“Adversers are not responsible for removing (or trying to have
removed) tesmonials published on plaorms that do not control
or on sites that are not adversing a regulated health service.” -
BEFORE AND AFTER PHOTOS
There is no-doubt that before and aer photos are viewed
regularly by consumers and industry professionals alike who are
seeking to determine the potenal benefit of a parcular
procedure. For example, if you do a Google search for “Dermal
Fillers before and aer” 16,000,000 results come up. If you search
for Before and Aers for wrinkle injecons 45,000,000 results will
As they say, “a picture is worth a thousand words”. However,
photography of ‘before and aer’ shots can also be manipulated
either intenonally (via photoshop) or accidentally, through a
different posion or a stronger light during the “aer shot”. This
would be considered misleading.
In Victoria, the Health Records Act (2001) is the most relevant
legislaon related to treatment records including ‘before and aer’
photos. This Act protects your health informaon when it is
handled by public and private sector organisaons in Victoria and
is administered by the Health Complaints Commissioner (HCC).
People need to appreciate that any personal informaon, including
photos, taken in a non-medical seng such as a non-medical salon
are also required to adhere to these high standards.
Here are some guidelines when taking photos:
AHPRA has for some me had concerns over the appropriate use
of ‘before and aer’ photos and the potenal of these photos to
mislead or even deceive consumers, and this is unethical, whether
it is a medical or simple a cosmec procedure that someone may
be invesng hundreds, or even thousands of dollars to gain the
The problem with photography is two-fold:
1. If the images are retouched or taking with a different lighng
the “aer” may be unrealiscally enhance.
2. The second concern is that there are several other variables
that determine the success of the end result of the procedures
e.g. age, diet, lifestyle, genecs, previous and accompanied
procedures that may have opmised the skin’s ability to
respond to the treatment.
However, within our industry ‘before and aer’ photos are
permied, however they need to be as authenc as possible.
Here are some guidelines:
• The images should be as similar as possible in content.
• The camera angle must be as similar as possible.
• The lighng must be the same, not brighter in the ‘aer shot’
blowing out lines and wrinkles.
• The posture must be idencal.
• Facial expression must be exactly the same – no smiles in the
‘before’ close up shot of the eyes showing wrinkles, while the
‘aer’ shot the face shows no creases as the subject is not
• The same background colour.
• Before and aer photos should not be accompanied with any
review by a paent about the treatment they have received, as
this is then regarded as a tesmonial, and the use of
tesmonials contravenes the Naonal Adversing regulaons.
OTHER ETHICAL CONSIDERATIONS
It is also important to note that if you plan to use the face of a
client for promoonal or adversing purposes you should gain
approval first. APAN has legally wrien ‘Photography Consent’
forms that you can access from us.
The other issue is “Privacy and Confidenality”. Our PRIVACY
POLICY has been wrien specifically for our industry and includes
a cerficate for display. This document is a legally-wrien in line
with the Privacy Act outlining how your client’s personal
informaon will be collected and stored. All our resource
documents comply with legal and regulatory requirements and
many of them have been wrien by our lawyers.
CONSIDERATIONS SPECIFICALLY FOR COSMETIC TATTOOIST
The use of someone else’s before and aer photos passing them as
your work is a very common pracce amongst cosmec taooists
who are void of any ethical consideraon on how they promote
themselves. This pracce is not just a copyright infringement, it is
also unethical and misleading. If this is somebody else’s work, this
would also be considered as plagiarism - the pracce of taking
someone else's work or ideas and passing them off as one's own.
As professionals, we need to uphold industry-defined and
regulated ethical standards. There is no excuse for ignorance.
Organisaons such as APAN have been set up to ensure you are
well-informed and protected. Your membership will allow you to
gain immediate access to your essenal requirements and keep
you updated with on-going industry and regulatory changes.
Please remember that our behaviour affects not just our personal
reputaon, it also strengthens or discredits the reputaon of the
profession as a whole. It pays to be compliant. APJ
If you need further informaon or support, please feel free to
contact APAN email@example.com 07 5593 0360 or visit
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SKEYNDOR LAUNCHES NEW CORRECTIVE FORMULATION
The new Correcve skincare line has been reformulated with triple-acon
stepping up results to a new level. Skeyndor boasts that it will make you look
five years younger! Correcve has been designed to combat wrinkles and skin
sagging. It will smooth and remove face and eye wrinkles as well as improve
lip contours in a more acve manner. The new cosmec treatment combines
a tripple-acon mechanism that fill the skin and rejuvenate it. The biological
peel accelerates cell renewal and smooths the skin. The filler combines three
natural lipo-filling substances to complete the re-densifying effect and fill
grooves and deep wrinkles, especially vercal lines. The decontractor uses
dermo-liing pepdes to repair damaged skin, reduces wrinkles, leaving the
skin more lied and refined. Contact Vogue Image Group 03 9821 0033
Mineral makeup has never been more innovave, with pure formulaons that are not only noncomedogenic,
but also offer proven skin-boosng benefits through the added acve ingredients.
Issada’s CCB Cream is a mutli-tasking mineral foundaon formula offering the benefits of a
nted moisturiser, colour-corrector and skincare serum all in one. CCB glides on effortlessly
providing sheer coverage with skin-nourishing and an-ageing ingredients to minimise the
appearance of pores, pigmentaon, blemishes, boost radiance, soothe and protect the skin. The
natural, lightweight formula contains a nourishing blend of pure minerals, an-ageing vitamin A,
anoxidant vitamin C, Licorice Rood Extract (to even skin tone), Hyaluronic Acid (to plump and
hydrate) and barrier repairing Ceramide 3, vitamin E and Olive Glycerides. CCB Cream can be
applied post-treatment, worn alone as a light to medium coverage foundaon, or under powder
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Makeup range which includes foundaons, lip, cheek, and eye formulas, plus a full cosmeceucal
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RB NATURAL LASHES
Long, luscious lashes can be yours with Roccoco's revoluonary prebioc Lash Serum.
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MEDER ARMA-BUST CREAM
Women treasure MEDER Arma-Bust Cream for the bust and décolleté area and its instant
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soy pepdes help restore circadian regulaon in the skin and support collagen producon to
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SKIN SERENITY, OVERNIGHT SCIENCE
Introducing ENVIRON’s new FOCUS CARE YOUTH +® SERIENCE NIGHT
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DR. ANNE-MARIE’S DERMAL CARE
Dr Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care is a complete skincare range
formulated in Australian with special emphasis on purity and efficacy.
It consists of all-natural acve ingredients sourced in Australia. Dr
Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care is 100% Vegan and is phthalate, sulphate,
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NEOGENESIS RECOVER SERUM
NeoGenensis Recover is our hero product. It is a breakthrough serum that improves
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NeoGenesis Eye Serum is a clear, super hydrang gel design to restore youthfulness to
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NeoGenesis Eye Serum contains mulple anoxidants to fight free radical damage and
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BARRIER RENEWAL CREAM
NeoGenesis Barrier Renewal Cream is a lightweight, deeply hydrang and repairing
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BEAUTY TAKES OVER
Dr Giulia D’Anna
WHETHER WE LIKE IT OR NOT, our clients are always looking for
ways to look aer themselves when we cannot, or not permied.
Lockdowns have been unrelenng in some parts of Australia,
parcularly in Victoria and now New South Wales. My clients
oen ask me what they can do to look aer their skin during these
mes. So instead of bad-mouthing store-purchased devices and
products, I try to offer some construcve insight and advice to
lead my clients in the right direcon. This works especially well if
your clinic offers online support and products. Trust me, my clients
do appreciate it and your clients will too. So, here are some
common quesons I am asked and the advice I offer them. This
not only helps them to maintain their skin, it also keeps us
communicang and connected.
What do you think about at-home LED masks? Is there some
benefit to using them at home, even though the wavelengths of
the LED are weaker than clinical treatments?
LED face masks for home use will definitely add value to your
clients’ skincare regime, and their skin overall. Although not as
effecve or potent in their acon as clinical treatments, clients will
noce general brightening of the skin and improved ‘glow’.
Basically at-home devices provide a fracon of the effect you will
get in a clinic, but that has benefits too. You can apply most LED
masks many mes a week, or even more than once daily. There is
no down-me and there are virtually no risks either.
What do you see as the main benefits? And what should I look
out for when purchasing?
The great thing about LED masks when used at home is that they
have a cumulave effect. That means each me they use them,
the skin benefits accumulate. Being less effecve than a clinical
LED treatment, it takes longer and more sessions to get
appreciable result, but results are possible. When looking for
masks, there are some basics to consider. The more LEDs the
mask contains, the beer! So, if a mask boasts 50 LEDs, but
another boasts 200, go for the one that offers 200! Masks that
plug into a power point are more powerful than baery or USB
powered variees. The colours maer too! Red is great for almost
any skin and has beauful an-ageing benefits. Whereas those
that suffer from acne and breakouts should be looking for blue
LED masks. Green is calming, so a perfect match for anyone with
Rosacea or redness through the face.
Does cost maer?
Somemes the more you pay, the beer the LED mask, BUT there
are some truly expensive at-home masks that are expensive
because they are a coveted brand name. So, paying more does not
always equate to great results. I love an LED mask that covers the
whole face, so the whole face is being treated. Surrounding the
face also means that the mask can be le on without you needing
to put in any extra effort. Another bonus is that the wrap around
design allows you to get an ‘even’ saturaon of LED over your
face. Hand-held devices can be tricky as it is so easy to dri off
into different direcons and distances from the face. Please make
sure to protect the eyes during use.
What are your thoughts on the efficacy of at-home
microneedling? What are the main benefits?
At-home microneedling is a lile less easy to do at home when
compared to LED masks. The main benefit of microneedling
overall is that we are creang a controlled micro-injury to the skin
which in turn induces collagen deposion. The texture of your skin
and evenness in skin me generally improves too. In clinic, we use
microneedling to break up scars, reduce capillaries and improve
skin elascity. Some of these more advanced results cannot be
done at home as they require a different needle depth and
technique. But everyone benefits from this kind of treatment. The
at-home devices have very short needles, parcularly when they
are on a roller. The rollers need to swing into the skin as the roller
moves, and then swing back out of the skin. This means that the
needles need to be short to prevent unwanted trauma, which can
cause skin problems. So, the take home message from me to your
client is, microneedling is great but due to the constraints of the
roller devices, the needles are short. This makes them safer to use
at home, but their acon is more limited too.
What are some things to avoid or look out for with at-home
When purchasing an at-home device, you are best starng small.
Do not buy or use anything more than 0.25mm length needles to
begin with. Less is definitely more! I would recommend taking a
look at an up-close image of the device too. Make sure it is easy to
clean. When using skin rollers, it is not uncommon to create some
small pinpoint bleeding spots on the face. You need to be able to
wash this off easily. Definitely do no microneedle in any products
into the skin. I have seen some terrible results when well-meaning
people have used low-grade supermarket brand serums, or worsesll,
use their microneedling device before cleaning their face.
Any ps for most effecve way to use microneedling for best
Start with a double cleansed face before microneedling. This
ensures that you don’t create any kind of reacon by accidentally
injecng makeup or other products into your skin. Try to use the
roller in vercal strokes, from top to boom, rather than roll the
microneedling roller backwards and forwards. This creates a more
even experience and result and makes sure you cover your whole
face evenly. Also, avoid going over your eyelids.
Try to remember to go over your nose too. This is the most sunexposed
area on the face, so the more collagen you have in your
nose the beer. You might also get some reduced pigmentaon
What are your thoughts on at home microdermabrasion? What
are some of the main benefits and risks?
Microdermabrasion is a mechanical/manual exfoliaon of the skin.
The top layers are removed with a ‘roughened’ diamond encrusted
p, leaving the soer and newer skin exposed. It is important to
go easy on the skin though. The top layer is only a few cells deep,
so less is more. At home microdermabrasion tools are not one of
my favourites, because this kind of treatment is so technique
sensive. Do it wrong, and you can do more harm than good. I
would stay away from devices that are mechanical and rely on you
rubbing your skin with an abrasive surface. The main reason for
that is that you oen can push too hard in delicate areas, such as
around the eyes, and this either creates a graze or worse-sll, can
actually stretch the skin. I would keep these kinds of mechanical/
manual devices to use on the arms, legs, or your back.
Is it beer to use a manual exfoliaon tool, or an electronic
gadget with a vacuum?
I prefer an electronic gadget that does not rely on you using too
much pressure to get the result. The main problem with the more
manual devices like the Revlon tool, is that although it is
inexpensive, there isn’t too much reliance on the using the right
strokes and pressure. It is always difficult to navigate around the
face - in parcular, as we have our nose projected outwards, our
eyes sing inwards. It is so easy to put too much pressure on the
jawline and nose, as these sit a lile more projected than the
Is this something you’d only recommend once a week for
example, and only at night before applying products?
I would recommend starng slow with any new treatment. To
begin with, use the device once a month, then every second week,
and then eventually using a microdermabrasion device no more
than once a week. But beer yet, this is one probably beer le to
the skin professionals. Aer microdermabrasion, you should apply
hydrang serums, like Hyaluronic Acid, and then moisturiser. Sun
protecon is a must. Using a renol product is truly important too.
This helps to speed up your skin cycle so that your skin naturally
performs and looks beer and can cope with microdermabrasion
FACIAL TONING DEVICES
Do these facial massage devices really help to contour the face
and ghten sagging skin? What’s your take? Why do they (or
don’t they) work? Is this something you would recommend using
daily for best results?
This one is one I would leave to the professionals. Sagging skin is
definitely one of the most common complaints that I encounter
daily in my pracce. But to be truly effecve, we need to reach the
cells deep in the skin. Fibroblasts sit at least 2-6mm under the skin
surface and are the cells responsible for manufacturing both
collagen and hyaluronic acid. These cells need to be smulated to
In-clinic, we might do this with microneedling, laser,
radiofrequency and similar treatments that are capable of
penetrang deep. The at-home devices just cannot get to the cells
that produce ghter, firmer skin. So, although the idea sound
amazing, the results won’t be too groundbreaking with an at-home
device. If you already own one, you can use them every day. They
won’t harm your skin in anyway, but they won’t help a whole lot
ELECTRONIC SILICONE FACIAL CLEANSERS
Do these tools really give a deeper clean? Is there also some
benefit with regards to massage/ vibraon funcons? Can they
really improve firmness and tone with regular use?
I do love a great silicone face cleanser. Their gentle vibraons do
provide a deeper clean, by way of their ultrasonic cleansing effect.
I usually pop some cleanser right onto the brush, moisten my skin
with water, and then turn the silicone cleanser on and run it over
my skin. I love seeing all my makeup come off when I run it under
water. More horrifying, but also truly sasfying, is that in the
morning when I have no makeup on and I cleanse again, so many
dead skin cells come off. My skin literally loves the depth of clean.
It is important to use gentle pressure, and make sure you also
cleanse your neck. So many people forget to look aer their neck,
but you will be shocked with how much grime comes off your skin
the skin clinic has not always been possible. What I have seen is
devices being purchased off the internet and being used at home.
The microneedling electronic devices can harbour bacteria, bloodborne
infecons and other nases in the moving parts. It is
important that you stay away from cheap devices like this. One
paent I saw recently had a needle from a cheap eBay device
break or dislodge into her skin. That was a tricky situaon to fix as
it needed surgical intervenon.
Skin penetraon devices like this should be listed on the TGA
device register to ensure that they are safe. In clinic, all our
equipment devices meet this standard to ensure that the skin and
people are kept safe. If purchasing a device over the internet, ask
the seller for the ARTG number which will show you the TGA
lisng. This is important to make sure the device does not cause
you any harm.
Should I invest in a facial shaving device and what do they do?
Everyone loves flawless skin and makeup. You can buy simple
“face shavers” from chemists and similar outlets. These simple
lile razors make it easy to achieve that. Essenally you use them
in a downward direcon on your face (don’t go against the grain)
to remove the fine peach-fuzz (vellus hair). They are designed for
single use, but depending upon your face, somemes using one
for just half of your face is best so you don’t drag against your skin
or cut yourself. If using one, use short strokes, and manoeuvre
around your nose and chin gentle to avoid cung yourself. Avoid
using acve skincare ingredients aer for at least 72 hours, so that
you don't experience any redness or sensivity, and cover up with
In-clinic dermaplaning removes the vellus fine peach fuzz, but also
the treatment removes the top layers of the skin in a gentle and
controlled way, using a scalpel blade. The therapist runs the blade
smoothly and gentle over the face in short lile strokes. This
provides the ulmate in skin glow. Face shaving doesn’t quite
provide the same benefits as in-clinic dermaplaning (which is
definitely beer le to the professionals as there is a scalpel
involved!), but you will feel smooth and glow aerwards. Best yet,
is that the hair doesn’t grow back thicker, as some people believe,
and you are unlikely to get any in-grown hair, since the hair is
being cut gently and at the right angle if you move in a downward
These are becoming popular. Should I invest in one and what do
they really do?
What I like about these, is that without thinking about it you are
performing facial massage. Facial massage is good for lymphac
drainage and keeping your skin invigorated. Although many jade
rollers claim to be an-ageing, they help mostly with skin
circulaon and the cooling effect of the roller is great for aninflammaon
and calming effects too. APJ
When purchasing one, look for an easy to clean design. Stay away
from bristle brushes as they are almost impossible to clean. And
when you clean your skin, you want to start with a clean brush, so
that you don’t inadvertently introduce more bacteria, or mould
that might be building up on your brush.
eBay microneedling devices – what are your thoughts?
Some people love to create an at-home treatment at home. I do
understand that COVID-19 closures have meant that geng to
Dermatonics Clearskin® Balancing Face Oil
BRINGING RELIEF TO ACNE SKIN
INTRODUCING THE LATEST
DEVELOPMENT from the Dermatonics®
team – Dermatonics Clearskin® Balancing
Face Oil. The newest addion to the
Dermatonics® product range is our unique
and balancing face oil for clients with
acne-prone and congested skin.
Dermatonics Clearskin® Balancing Face
Oil has a light and beauful jojoba oil base
which penetrates easyly into the skin as it
is structurally very similar to the fay
esters contained in the skin. Our new face
oil also contains the unique ingredient to
the Dermatonics® range – Curcuma
xanthorrhiza. This unique species of the
Curcuma family (also referred to as
turmeric) has been demonstrated to have
very high an-inflammatory acvity, which
is central to assisng skin prone to acne.
The acve molecule behind the amazing
benefits of Curcuma xanthorrhiza is the
xanthorrhizol molecule. Several research
studies have found mulple benefits for
inflammatory condions as well as having
anmicrobial properes and many more
health benefits, which are 8-10 mes
more potent than the curcumin molecule.
highly beneficial properes for calming and soothing the skin, our unique balancing oil
contains a high concentraon of hemp seed oil.
Although many clients may feel they should not be pung oil on their skin, which is
already congested, we know that providing high quality, balanced and non-comedogenic
oil is key to reducing the cycle of overproducon of sebum in the skin.
Hemp seed oil is one of the most beneficial and balanced oils, especially for those with
acne-prone skin. Hemp seed oil also helps hydrate the skin, all without clogging the pores.
Oen over-cleansing or drying the skin is a contribung factor to the cycle of excess oil
producon and breakouts. Therefore, we must be gentle with acne-prone skin and
replenish the skin with the appropriate oils.
We also know how great tea tree oil can be for acne-prone skin due to its natural
anbacterial acvity. However, this needs to be applied in a reasonable, diluted
concentraon, as tea tree oil can also be drying to the skin if applied in at a high
concentraon. Hence, our Dermatonics Clearskin® Balancing Face oil contains a suitable
concentraon to help address the bacteria in the skin appropriately, harnessing its
benefits without drying the skin.
One of the newest ingredients to the Dermatonics® range is in our new face oil – baobab
oil. What is unique about this ingredient is that is has really great regenerave capacies,
and we need that for assisng the skin to regenerate aer the damage that acne causes.
Even beer, it contains a high concentraon of natural vitamin C as well as natural fay
acids and minerals. We have truly harnessed the best and purest of natures’ oils to create
this unique and targeted face oil for your clients struggling with their breakouts.
For further informaon please contact Donna Marcal from DERMATONICS 0430 582
508 E: firstname.lastname@example.org
In addion to other natural acves with
NEW ADVANCES IN
An interview with Maya Ercegovac
IN THE PREVIOUS ISSUE OF APJ we presented an arcle on
electrolysis and why it is gaining popularity. To connue our
invesgaon in this modality we interviewed Maya Ercegovac.
Maya is the Australian trainer for the internaonal electrolysis
course developed by the renowned Canadian company Dectro
who deliver both electrolysis and aesthec qualificaons.
APJ Q1: MAYA, WHAT IS THE FUTURE DIRECTION OF
Electrolysis id shaping into a vastly and more excing modality
than in the past. This has been necessitated by the new advanced
in modern machines that have extensive capabilies and services
that can be achieved. The new technology works with higher
frequencies, faster speed and can allow us to achieve beer
results, more quickly and with a much more efficient pain
threshold and in some instance, almost zero pain, something that
was not possible with the old machines. This has contributed to a
rise in popularity of this procedure, because ulmately what
people are looking for are results, but also comfort during the
delivery of the treatment.
Essenally, the new devices can deliver three treatments –
electrolysis, thermolysis and the blend method that combines
high-frequency (thermolysis plus electrolysis). The new devices
offer different speeds and frequencies allowing for quicker, beer
results and with potenally less skin damage than were possible
with past technologies.
However, educaon and training has now become more advanced,
as the new technology can not only offer hair removal but can also
offer galvanic facials to enhance skin-penetraon of acves, as
well as cataphoresis that will allow skin to be disinfected,
balanced, and supported against harmful microbial acvity.
Addionally, it can achieve thermal coagulaon for lesion removal,
vascular capillary removal, milia extracon and skintag removal
with greater ease.
The educaon that is now available is quite impressive and at a
higher level as a stand-alone qualificaon. This is essenal in
order to achieve the level of treatment possibilies with safety
and efficacy. With inadequate training, we are seeing
praconers struggle with poor technique and poor execuon of
their hair removal that oen contribute to scarring and skin
damage. It is therefore important to gain the correct level of
educaon as this will contribute to a successful career and
excellent client demand and business growth.
APJ Q2: WHERE DOES ELECTROLYSIS CURRENTLY FIT WITH
The treatment possibilies of electrolysis are now vastly different
than in the past. Electrolysis today doesn’t just offer hair removal
capabilies, but also offers skin treatment modalies. Starng
however, with hair, it can offer permanent hair removal, instead of
hair reducon, which is the case with IPL or laser. Also, the
challenges we experience with the darker Fitzpatrick skin types,
say IV and V, (which are a problem with IPL or laser), are not a
concern with electrolysis as electrolysis targets the hair bulb
chemically and not through heat, as with the light-based approach.
Therefore, electrolysis is substanally more efficient and with
greater capabilies than IPL or laser hair reducon.
Addionally, the new technologies can also perform facial
treatment, such as addressing pigmentaon and vascular lesions,
as well as the removal of skin tags which can be achieved with
ease. Electrolysis is also a far more comfortable method of hair
removal with the new technologies, and white hair can be easily
and comfortably removed, as well as permanently.
APJ Q3: IN TODAY’S MARKET WHAT SKILLSETS SHOULD AN
ELECTROLOGIST HAVE COMPARED TO THE PAST?
That’s a good queson. In the past electrologists worked on basic
hair removal. However, today, we have the knowledge, training,
and ability to deliver a wider range of treatment soluons,
parcularly with individuals with medical condions. These
require a systemac approach and more advanced skills in how we
deliver the treatment. We are also required to have greater
aenon to detail, as well as greater depth of knowledge and
understanding of how certain medical condions may impact the
way we execute the service. With new advances in technology, we
are now able to perform treatments with less discomfort and pain
and with faster and more successful treatment outcomes. We are
also able to successfully overcome many challenging problems
that we were faced in the past. The good news is that the new
technology is giving us the ability to overcome several past
contraindicaons. I believe electrolysis can be quite addicve,
therefore many choose to specialise in it as their chosen
profession as the perimeters of treatment possibilies are vastly
greater than in the past.
APJ Q4: HOW MUCH TIME IS REQUIRED TO TRAIN
For the training that we deliver we require 300 hours with 180
hours covered in class and the remaining can be completed
through online study. The course we offer is comprehensive and
has 15 units of study. The reason for this duraon is so that the
correct skills can be competently deliver. This happens gradually.
The technique is very detailed, and it is important to determine
how far you need to go into the dermis to avoid scarring and
permanent skin damage, which we oen see with insufficient
training. Also, there are skills that need to be developed for the
various treatment opons and for the various skin condions and
locaons where hair needs to be removed.
APJ Q5: WHAT ELEMENTS ARE IMPORTANT IN THE
There are several as this procedure is not a one-off treatment, it
requires a treatment plan. It is therefore crical that a
comprehensive consultaon process is undertaken that includes
an in-depth dialogue between the praconer and the client/
paent to determine any potenal contraindicaons, a review of
their medical history, and any medicaon they are on. The
praconer will need to carefully check any underlying condions
to determine safety perimeters and ascertain aims and potenal
results. As a rule, the consultaon process will usually require 30-
45 minutes to complete, as it is the foundaon on which the
treatment plan will be determined. Other issues that will need to
be discussed will include the duraon of the treatment plan, the
frequency of the treatment, the budget, and the expected
APJ Q6: WHO WOULD BE A GOOD CANDITATE TO TRAIN IN
There are several key aributes that are needed for a good
electrologist these include:
1. Good eyesight and a strong aenon to detail.
2. Ability for good wrist dexterity.
3. As this procedure requires a great deal of concentraon a
praconer will need to have good health and have a strong
and stable nerves.
4. Caring and paent disposion and a willingness to be
compassionate in helping others.
5. While it is helpful to have a beauty therapy of nursing
background some of the more comprehensive educaonal
program, such as the internaonal training we offer through
Dectro cover all the necessary anatomy and physiology,
bringing someone to the correct level of knowledge and skill
to deliver these procedures.
6. A laser or IPL praconer who wishes to help their clients with
both permanency of hair removal, or for the removal of vellus
hair or while hair with no pigment.
APJ Q7: WHAT CONDITIONS CAN YOU TREAT OR SERVICE
WITH THE NEW ADVANCES IN ELECTROLYSIS?
While in the past electrolysis focused predominantly on simple
hair removal, the new technological advances are expanding the
capabilies and scope of services they can provide to include
much more. For example, here are some of the services you can
provide with the new technology:
• Removal of skintags
• Removal of vascular lesions
• Permanent eyebrow shaping
• Underarm hair removal
• Bikini line
• White hair that cannot be removed with light-based
applicaons such as IPL or laser
• Polycysc Ovarian Syndrome condions of excessive hair
• Transgender hair removal treatment
• Certain cancers such as in the case of throat cancer.
Another consideraon is that during challenging economic mes
electrolysis offers a more cost-effecve way of providing efficient
hair removal, as well as addional services without the financial
layout that is needed to purchase light-based technologies, not to
menon their maintenance costs. This together with their ability to
deliver more comfortable treatment execuon is contribung to
the constant growth of electrolysis as a valuable and favorable
modality on several levels. APJ
For further informaon you can contact MAYA ERCEGOVAC
email@example.com or 0410 303 809.
TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
HOW TO DEVELOP
RESILIENCE AND A
WINNING MINDSET IN
THERE IS SO MUCH TALK ABOUT
RESILIENCE especially when we need to
learn to live through long-term challenges
such as what we are all currently
experiencing. But what is resilience and
how can we develop it and master it
during difficult mes?
When you think of the characteriscs of
resilience you usually think of one’s ability
to bounce back from difficult mes and
challenges. In fact, the origin of the word
means “the act of rebounding” and is
derived from ‘resiliens’ which means ‘to
recoil or rebound’. While some people
have a seemingly natural capacity to
bounce back from adversity, others do
not. But resilience can be learned.
Resilience will serve you well throughout
your life. Once mastered, you can always
draw upon your past experiences, both
physical and emoonal to manage and
overcome difficult mes. In fact, learning
to be resilient can also help to make you
stronger; with each challenge you
encounter, you can develop new skills
and new ways of dealing with life.
Knowing you are resilient may help you
develop the strength to pursue your life
to the fullest without fear.
Along with resilience comes flexibility and
adaptability. The more possibilies you
envision, especially during difficult mes
and challenges, the more you allow
yourself to overcome and expand as a
Here are some ways to help you
establish the right mindset in order to
improve and strengthen your resilience:
Embrace change: This should almost
always at the top of your list. If you can
accept that nothing stays the same, that
there will always be flux, then you are
starng with a leg up. All of us will be
challenged many mes in life by
obstacles, both from within and without.
In many instances, we can overcome
what tries to stop us or thwart us by one
means or another. One way to strengthen
our resilience is to accept and come to
terms with the fact that change will be
required of us during difficult mes and
to be mentally and emoonally prepared
for it. So, when the need for change
arises, we can face it with determinaon
and confidence instead of allowing it to
Do not dwell on negave thinking: This
is much easier to say than do, but it’s true
that if we can gain a handle on our
thoughts, especially our negave ones,
we can actually take some posive
acon. Not only do we think negave
thoughts that keep us worried and
anxious, but we fear the negave
outcome. Once we realise that negave
thinking has its roots in fear it helps us
understand that this mindset will only
lead us to hopelessness, and this will not
allow us to find a soluon. Fear makes us
focus only on the worst that can happen
and that will increase our stress and wear
So how do we break this cycle? We shi
our thinking to something posive,
something to look forward to, something
that is calming, or at least neutral. How
do we do that? We go for a walk, we
exercise, we meditate, we pray and we
engage in something creave. In other
words, we change our “state” and give
our brains a break from repeve
negave thinking. At the very least it’s
very empowering to know we can do this
if we want to, that our thoughts are
within our control.
Business & Legislaon, New Tools and Research Outcome
Know thyself: It was the Greek
philosopher Socrates that said: “To know
thyself is the beginning of wisdom”.
Take an inventory of yourself so that you
gain a clear understanding of your
strengths and your weaknesses. Then
fully acknowledge your strengths and
accomplishments and never take them for
granted. This is who you are and you can
expect that they will stand you in good
stead through difficules and challenges.
When you believe that “you can” you
increase your ability to rise to the
occasion, to deal with and resolve your
conflicts and crisis.
Create Goals: The reason that goals are
important is that they keep you on track
to move forward. Without goals to aim
for you can become vague and
complacent and this will open the
doorway to self-doubt and despondency.
If you are feeling a lile down, but you
have a goal to focus on, it can help you
apply yourself and snap out of your fears
Develop Problem-Solving Skills: Research
suggests that people who are able
to come up with soluons to a problem
are beer able to cope with problems
than those who cannot. Whenever you
encounter a new challenge, make a quick
list of some of the potenal ways you
could solve the problem. Experiment with
different strategies and focus on
developing a way to work through
common problems. By exercising your
problem-solving skills on a regular basis,
you will be beer prepared to cope when
a serious challenge emerges.
Set goals high and monitor progress
instead of specific results:
Focus on being purposeful, rather than
just being producve. Set goals for
yourself that are achievable but can push
you just that lile extra. With the current
unpredictability we are facing, when
faced with disrupon that you have no
control over, take the me to go back and
acknowledge your progress. What have
you achieved since you have set your
goals? Even if you are experiencing
hindrances, focus on what you HAVE
managed to accomplish and allow that to
encourage you that you are moving
forward rather focusing on the target goal
you set for yourself.
THE IMPORTANCE OF A
PROGRAM IN THE
HOW MANY OF YOUR EMPLOYEES
ARE CHRONICALLY STRESSED OUT?
How many are baling anxiety? Are any
of them depressed? If these quesons
seem difficult to answer, it’s because they
are. It’s not always apparent when
someone is coping with a mental health
issue. Unlike a cold or a broken leg, the
symptoms of stress, anxiety, depression,
and other mental illnesses can be hidden
or mistakenly explained away.
Why workplace mental health maers
Many businesses are so focused on client
sasfacon, but fall short when it comes
to employee wellness. While it’s great
that most businesses support physical
health and wellbeing, this is only half of
the equaon. Our brains are just as
crucial to our wellbeing, especially
considering the detrimental effects
mental illness can have on physical
health, such as increased blood pressure,
hormonal imbalances and heightened risk
When an employee is suffering, so does
their work. Depression has become the
leading cause of disability across the
globe, and it’s esmated that 172 million
workdays are lost due to depression each
year. Stress, anxiety, and other mental
health issues compound this problem,
leaving people less engaged, focused, and
How you can help your staff?
Luckily, there are several ways you can
support your employees’ mental wellbeing.
Here are some simple examples:
1. Speak candidly about mental health.
The first step to beang the sgma is
to stop treang mental illness as
taboo. Whether it’s an arcle you
read, a program you have watched, or
a personal experience you had,
talking about it openly and without
shame will help others realise they
aren’t alone. Create an environment
where your staff feel safe to talk to
you if they are struggling in this area.
2. Keep the conversaon going.
Workplace culture must be nurtured,
which means you can’t just menon
mental health once and expect it to
catch on. Find opportunies to
incorporate strategies to help your
employees recognise that you care.
The message you need to put across
is that the business cares about the
wellbeing of their staff and it is
determined to provide appropriate
support structures to prevent mental
health impacng them in a way that
will be detrimental to their health and
3. Include all levels of staff. Culture
starts at the top, so it’s important that
you lead the way. Your employees
won’t believe that you genuinely care
about their wellbeing unless you
demonstrate the importance of
4. Pay aenon and be ready to help. If
you do noce an employee behaving
differently, for example, irritability or
low mood, don’t hesitate to ask them
if everything is alright. Remind them
that you’re there to help.
5. Facilitate access to these resources.
Similar to the previous point, your
staff won’t get much use out of the
informaon if it’s difficult for them to
find. Eliminate barriers to access by
TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
providing the content in a variety of
formats (audio, video, wrien, etc),
and minimise the number of steps it
takes for them to find it.
6. Priorise confidenality and
anonymity. Even though mental
health might be normalised in your
workplace, some people might sll
feel uncomfortable discussing it,
parcularly if they struggle with
addicon, trauma, or suicidal
thoughts. Reassure your staff that
their privacy is your top concern, and
that their use of mental health
resources will never be monitored or
7. Design a mentally healthy work
space. It’s important for your
employees to feel energised and
uplied by their work environment.
Research has shown producvity,
engagement, and overall wellness
increase when people feel
comfortable in workspaces that
feature natural lighng, plants, and
other posive features.
8. Focus on the posive. Mental illness
is a serious issue, but it can sll be
addressed in a way that makes people
feel understood and appreciated, as
this will give them hope. Always
remember to leave your employees
feeling that they can trust to reach
out to you for help if they need it.
If you have a mental health program in
place, check if it is working for you.
COVID-19 has created the need for many
changes including a program that can
support you and your staff to deal with
the uncertainty the current environment
is imposing on all of us, both financially
To ensure businesses gain evidencebased
support in this area APAN is
launching the MENTAL HEALTH &
BUSINESS PROGRAM (MHBP). This
program has been designed specifically
for our industry to provide tools that will
support the business owner in
introducing a clinically-proven strategic
wellness plan to help prevent mental
health issues in the workplace, as well as
help the business to connue to operate
producvely. To learn more, see page
106 for full details. APJ
HAVE YOU INTRODUCED A
AND IMMUNE SUPPORT IN
We spend a lot of me at work. Be it at
our workplace or home do you know that
we spend up to a third of our lives
The threat of COVID-19 has brought to
light the crical role that immunity plays
in supporng our health whether we are
vaccinated or not. The health of our
immune system will ulmately determine
how well our bodies will respond to
stress, viruses or infecons. The fact is
that the stronger our immune system is,
the greater the chance we have at
reducing the risk of disease and infecon.
Regardless, I am certain we can all agree
that none of us like the feeling of being
Workplace disrupon and the impact on
The pandemic has hit the economy very
hard. We have seen how once booming
businesses, both in our industry and in
other sectors, have been brought to their
knees, sadly, some even going into
administraon. This crisis has been so
bad that the World Bank esmates the
global economy will shrink by 5.2% - the
deepest recession since the Second
The importance of good nutrion and
good hygiene in keeping immunity at its
While every business has implemented
mandatory infecon control measures to
protect against the spread of COVID-19,
it is also prudent and responsible to
support yourself, your staff and your
clients with strategically posioned
informaon on how to opmise and keep
their immune system at its peak through
appropriate nutrion and healthy lifestyle
A nutrious diet, one that is rich in
micronutrients, vitamins such as omega-
3s, vitamin C, vitamin D3, probiocs and
zinc has been scienfically proven to
keep our immunity funconing at its best.
Implemenng simple strategies is not
only preventave, it also reduces the risk,
severity and duraon of an infecon. In
addion, having adequate micronutrients
in our diets also increases energy and
reduces bodily fague, enhances
cognive funcon and the development
of bone and muscle strength.
Taking the lead in advocang workforce
Advocacy for good nutrion and personal
hygiene progams should rank highly on
the agendas of business leaders.
Within our industry several major
cosmec companies are now introducing
nutrional supplements and whole food
powders that are carefully formulated to
opmise not just skin health, but also to
support wellbeing and immunity.
Companies such as Regul8 distributed by
DMK provide an amazing nutrional
system to opmise gut health, supported
by anoxidants to help enhance skin
health and immunity.
Advanced Nutrion introduced to
Australia by MargiFox Distributors offer
an amazing selecon of evidence-based
nutrional supplements to support and
enhance skin treatment results while also
VITA-SOL has developed four highly pure
wholefood powders consisng of organic
fruit and vegetables to produce mulacve
concentrates, gently extracted and
tested for toxic heavy metals. The
collecon provides pure nutrional drinks
and organic herbal teas that deliver
cleansing, bioavailable anoxidants, and
Business & Legislaon, New Tools and Research Outcome
other nutrients to support gut health,
liver, joints, bones, hair, skin and nails.
Other companies, such as ENTITY have
introduced Radianix, a sublingual
glutathione, known as the master
anoxidant and Restorix containing
niconamide enhanced with resveratrol
and quercen. This formula supports
cellular health by increasing NAD levels
and acvang an-ageing molecules
known as sirtuins that protect against
telomere shortening. These are all
known for their purity and efficacy.
With the introducon of amazing highquality
nutrional products, which not
only provide support for the skin, but also
opmise immunity and energy levels, you
now can include another ‘iron in the fire’
for beer protecon for your clients and
staff. These opons offer a great
opportunity to introduce a new level of
care and immune support to all those you
Addionally, supporng a healthy
workforce is a win-win for both
employees and employers alike.
Employees benefit from improved work
morale, while employers will benefit from
improved producvity that comes from a
happier and healthier workforce.
THE FUTURE OF
DURING THE RECENT
WEEKS, we have been
contacted by numerous
business owners with regards
to concerns with the growing
frequency of lockdowns,
which are creang
uncertainty for their future.
These concerns are coming
from various States –
predominantly from NSW,
Victoria, Queensland and
even Western Australia and
We have also spoken to our
solicitors who are confirming
that the unrest is now
resulng into several
peons pushing for change. As I
discussed last week through a video our
own peon through change.org is
focusing on the urgent need for
alternave soluons to lockdowns. Our
lawyers also confirmed that there is
currently a class acon scheduled to go
to the High Court regarding several issue
of concern with the way COVID-19 is
being handled and the mandates that are
Whether you support the vaccinaon
iniave or not, one area we can all agree
on is that an alternave soluon is
needed as lockdowns are destroying
businesses and are highly detrimental to
the economy. While, when first
introduced most business owners were
willing to comply, their connued and
repeated frequency is creang panic and
anxiety for many business owners. As a
result, our members are urging us to step
up and strongly advocate on their behalf.
CONCERN WITH NEW NSW BILL
COVID-19 is now mutang with new
variants and the future is looking more
and more uncertain. While businesses are
given the choice to recommend or
mandate their staff to be vaccinated the
new Bill introduced recently by NSW
(Public Health Amendment (Vaccinaon
Compensaon) Bill 2021) is creang a
great deal of concern. Here is just one
leer we have received from a business
“As CEO of APAN, I believe the aached
proposed amendment to current NSW
legislaon should be of concern.
The NSW government appears to be
abrogang liability to workers for
mandatory vaccinaon. In conjuncon with
their (NSW Govt) pledge that doctors’
liability is waived, it appears that businesses
will bear the lifeme financial liability to
workers for any deleterious effects under
this proposed legislaon. There needs to be
more transparency and discussion on this
topic because it opens a Pandora’s Box of
problems, not the least of which is a client
suing if they become infected by a worker
who is unvaccinated.
Your comments would be welcome”. L.M-
W., Director of Clinical Aesthecs.
PETITIONS CURRENTLY BEING
PRESENTED TO PARLIAMENT
There is currently a movement happening
for change and for a more workable
approach to safety, as many businesses
are faced with insurmountable
challenges. While APAN is here to
support you through various iniaves,
we must also face the reality that change
is needed. We wish to alert you to
several peons that you may wish to
invesgate and support. The me has
come to unite our voices as the
connuaon of the current approaches
will destroy businesses on so many levels.
Here are just a few:
At the me of wring this report a
peon EN2855 request the Rights for
Cizen to Use Alternave Means of
Protecon was signed by over 54,000.
This peon closed on 12th August.
The peon addressed that millions of
Australians are extremely concerned
about the Federal Government's push to
force hasly approved and poorly tested
novel vaccines on the populaon, when
adequate long term safety data is
unavailable. It is also of great concern
that many notable doctors and medical
researchers reporng successful
treatment using cheap, safe generic anviral
drugs appear to be ignored by the
government and TGA, due to these
generic drugs being of lile commercial
value and not sponsored by
pharmaceucal companies for approval
by the TGA
TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
We therefore ask the House to formally
request that the TGA assess the use of
Ivermecn and Hydroxychloroquine, in
the recommended dosages and
combinaon with complimentary drugs,
based on the peer reviewed studies and
data, and the recommendaon of notable
Australian medical researchers, such as
Professor Thomas Borody and Professor
PETITION 3589: Problems with PCR
Another peon to the Queensland
Legislave Council that will close on the
Queensland residents draws to the
aenon of the House that there is
overwhelming evidence that the Reverse
Transcripon Polymerase Chain Reacon
(RT-PCR) test (PCR test) to detect SARS-
CoV-2 is seriously flawed and not fit for
purpose. (check the link for full details
Your peoners, request the House to
call upon the Chief Health Officer, to
provide the people of Queensland within
a. the cycle threshold of the PCR test in
b. the irrefutable evidence used to
jusfy the use of PCR test and its
c. the future of the PCR test in
Queensland, given the CDC
Serene Teffaha is the CEO of Advocate
Me. She has 15 years of experience as a
praccing lawyer who has developed
several templates for people who wish to
reference scienfic papers in their
peoning. These include Masking,
COVID-19 Vaccines supporng research
papers, Mandang COVID-19 and Flu
Vaccinaons, RT-PCR Tesng, COVID-19
Vaccinaon declinaon leer, QR Code
Template. We also believe that she is
acvely pursuing a further class acon
with the High Courts.
There are numerous other peons
circulang, addionally APAN will feature
one on change.org available on
www.apanetwork.com. It is
disappoinng that we are forced to take
such desperate measures, but the future
of many businesses depend on change.
THE EIGHT BEST WAYS TO
DEAL WITH ANGRY,
As much as you try to deliver flawless
services and maintain great client
relaonships, you're bound to run into
some difficult client situaons – it's part
of doing business, and in parcular since
COVID-19 with stress levels soaring,
emoons and anger can be easily
challenged, despite your good intenons.
Whether some aspect of your job
management cycle doesn't go according
to plan or your client is just having a bad
day – it's important that you are prepared
to manage angry, frustrated, or emoonal
In this arcle we outline seven strategies
to help you manage and diffuse
challenging situaons. Keep them in your
back pocket so you are equipped to turn
around a potenally negave
outcome. They may appear simple, but
1. KEEP YOUR COOL … ALWAYS!
This is the Number 1 rule to
remember when dealing with a
challenging client. Stay calm, and
never let your own feelings spiral out
of control. Responding to your client
emoonally or angrily is only going to
escalate the situaon. If you feel
tense take a few deep breaths,
keeping a slow and steady rhythm. It’s
ok to wait a moment and collect
yourself rather than responding
Remember not to take your client's
behaviour as a personal offense. They
might be under pressure through
personal problems at home, or maybe
they're just having a horrible day.
Whatever the reason, try not to be
offended - you never know their
2. ACKNOWLEDGE THEIR FEELINGS
When someone is firing aggressively
or with emove language at you, it’s
easy to roll your eyes and dismiss
them as crazy. But disregarding a
client’s feelings will only inflame them
more. It’s crucial that you
acknowledge their emoons -
whether or not they’re jusfied - so
your client feels like they’ve been
truly heard. The following statements
a. “I understand this situaon is
frustrang for you.”
b. “I know this is a sensive topic, and
that you’re worried about your
c. “I understand this has caused you real
stress and concern.”
Oen just acknowledging their
feelings will be enough to calm them
3. WAIT FOR THE CALM
If it gets to the point where you client
loses control and is yelling insults or
Business & Legislaon, New Tools and Research Outcome
failing to manage their emoons, you
need to have paence. Wait it out. If
you aempt to argue with them in
this state no logic is going to break
through. Try to let your client get their
feelings off their chest without
interrupng. Don’t take the maer
personally. Avoid telling them to calm
down - this can feel extremely
patronising, and will oen have the
opposite effect. And above all do not
scold them, it will only inflame the
If things have really escalated politely
suggest taking a 10-minute breather.
Ask if they would a like a glass of
water or coffee, or if they’d prefer to
reconvene on another day. Try not to
judge them for things said in the heat
of the moment.
4. PRACTICE ACTIVE LISTENING
While it’s important to placate an
angry or emoonal client, you should
also take their comments on board.
Do they have a valid reason to be so
distressed? Why do they feel let
down by your business? Were your
inial promises or communicaons
misleading? Listen to the message
rather than the tone of voice.
Acve listening means really stopping
and digesng the words your client
says. If you’re simply imagining your
rebual while they talk, that’s not
acve listening. Here are some ps:
a. Put aside distracng thoughts
b. Don’t mentally formulate your
rebual while they’re speaking
c. Never interrupt
d. Make eye contact
e. Ask quesons for clarificaon
f. Repeat their points to show
g. Keep an open posture (no closed
By really listening to your client’s
problems, you may discover ways to
improve your service, business
processes and communicaon going
5. FIND A COMMON GROUND
Try to find some common ground
early in the conversaon. If you only
focus on the point of disagreement,
your client will feel like they’re
banging their head against a brick
wall. Here are some statements that
may be helpful:
a. “I think we can agree that the results
from this experience for you did not
go as expected.”
b. “I know we are both eager to find a
mutually beneficial soluon to this.”
c. “We both want to get the best results
from for you. Let’s make a plan that
works for everyone.”
d. “I know we’re both keen to get these
delays resolved as fast as possible.”
Establishing that you have things in
common can help generate feelings of
empathy and understanding. You
don’t want to be at loggerheads for
the whole conversaon.
6. ESTABLISH CONTROL WITH FACTS
When tensions are running high it’s
easy to get off topic, or end up
discussing tangenal details.
Anecdotes or argumentave
statements can quickly veer the
meeng off course. If appropriate
make sure you have on hand any
consultaon or consent agreement
that you may have and that they have
signed. Having these facts at hand
will help you establish control of the
Use the paperwork to back up your
posion, the formal contract if
applicable. If they ignore these
wrien points calmly repeat them
unl they sink in. Make it clear that
you will not budge on factual
7. END WITH A CONCRETE PLAN
Always conclude the meeng with a
concrete plan for moving forward,
and email a summary of this to the
client. This means the meeng
outcome can’t be disputed. Include
meframes and specifics. This is also
important in the event that the dispute
may result in a ligaon case. At this
point, whether the client has threatened
to take legal acon or not please nofy
your insurance company and follow their
If you didn’t manage to reach a mutually
agreeable soluon, make sure you set a
date for a follow-up meeng. Remember
that it’s in your own interest to deal with
unhappy clients as fast as possible. The
longer the disagreement drags on, the
more likely the client will complain
publicly or leave negave reviews of your
8. STOP POTENTIAL PROBLEMS
BEFORE THEY START
Following these steps will help to
resolve most conflicts. But the best
approach is to avoid difficult clients in
the first place!
Have you ever experienced a bad gut
feeling when meeng a new client?
Your stomach forms a lile knot when
their name pops up in your inbox. We
all find it hard to say no to potenal
new business, but oen it’s beer to
act on your intuion. The most
difficult clients aren’t worth it
because of the profits they’ll cost you
in the long run.
Here are a couple of red flags to
watch out for when meeng new
a. Asking for a discount. A client trying
to wrangle down your standard rates
is usually a bad sign. It means they
don’t respect the true value of your
work and may try to squeeze freebies
out of you later on.
b. Reluctance to pay a deposit. If you’ve
explained your payment process but
they’re reluctant or fidgety about
paying a deposit, this is a red flag for
obvious reasons. You’re likely to end
up chasing payment, down the line.
Conflict resoluon does not need to be a
painful process. With a few wise
communicaon skills you can avoid
taking things personally and staying
focused on resolving the issue at hand
rather than allowing yourself to get
emoonal and upset. APJ
THE CONNECTION BETWEEN MIND AND BODY is
something that is scienfically validated and is now used
extensively throughout various disciplines. Contemporary
studies in neuroscience are idenfying health and lifestyle
principles that can allow us to beer understand both selfcare,
as well as see them incorporated in integrave pracces.
Addionally, there are ancient cultures that have based their
healing pracces on a philosophy of mind/body connecon, albeit
that they achieve this through their own pathways that differ from
Western thought yet aim at similar objecves of restoring health
and wellbeing. One of these is Ayurveda. In modern mes we are
seeing Ayurvedic principles entering the beauty, health, and
wellness industry, through the use of various treatment protocols,
as well as skincare formulaons.
In this arcle Danielle Hughes presents some of the basic
principles of Ayurvedic Dermatology. It is important to note that if
you wish to incorporate any of these principles in your pracce
that you seek appropriate training to ensure both safety and
Translated, Ayurveda means “knowledge of life” and refers to a
tradional system of medicine, believed to have been passed from
gods to sages, and in turn doctors. Originang in India, it is
believed Ayurveda dates back to the Indus Valley civilisaon. In
fact, Ayurveda is most likely the only form of prehistoric medicine
sll pracced today. Most recently, the field of Ayurvedic
Dermatology has evolved with pracces being integrated into
modern skin management strategies.
THE BASIC PRINCIPLES OF AYURVEDIC MEDICINE
The eight branches of Ayurvedic medicine are idenfied in the
1. General adult medicine
The wisdom of the past providing
solutions for the present
These eight systems relate specifically to the five elements of the
human body: earth, water, fire, air, and space (or ether).
Combinaons of these five elements are bio-energies and it is
these bio-energies that govern bodily funcon. Also known as
tridoshas, the three bio-energies that may populate our body are:
1. Vata – space and air
2. Pia – fire and water
3. Kapha – water and earth
According to Ayurvedic medicine bio-energies impact our physical
and emoonal being and each of us has a unique balance of these
energies. Some of us are predominant in one, whilst others may be
a combinaon. Ulmately, dis-ease, is described as the end point
of living outside the harmony of your unique energec balance. As
an industry, we have relavely recently come to have a heightened
understanding of the impact that psychological stress bears on the
skin, a connecon known as the brain-skin axis. Yet, centuries ago,
we see this was already discussed and pracced in medical
treatments. Now, it’s understandable that some of you reading
may think this is just too alternate or ‘woo woo’ but let’s note
there are some recently published reviews of these pracces. For
example, ‘Advanced in Integrave Dermatology’ published their
2019 textbook with an enre chapter dedicated to Ayurvedic
AYURVEDIC MEDICINE AND SKIN CELLS
Ayurvedic pracce asserts each of our cells possess their own vital
energy, known as ojas. This energy allows our cells to repair and
rejuvenate to correct imbalances that disrupt homeostasis.
Ayurveda has described the skin as ‘twag sara’ in the Charaka, one
of the three notable Ayurvedic texts. Twag sara idenfies key
qualies that skin should be - smooth, so, lustrous and a sign of
good fortune, happiness, and intelligence. The seven layers of skin
described correspond to the seven ssue systems of the body –
plasma, blood, muscle, bone, fat, marrow, and semen. Therefore,
Ayurveda can idenfy that when there is an imbalance in blood for
example, there is a corresponding response that manifests on the
BIO-ENERGIES AND RESULTING SKIN CONDITIONS
Ayurveda pracces characterise certain skin symptoms can be
aributed to predominant bio-energies of an individual.
• Vata dominance resembles thin, brile and cracked skin; hair
may be sparse and break easily and there is a decreased
sebum secreon; the colon (large intesne) is the main seat of
• Pia dominance may see increased sebum producon, warm
and shiny skin, and risk of photosensivity; excess pita energy
may cause balding; nails may be flexible; the small intesne,
skin and liver represent the main seat of pia energy.
• Kapha dominance may appear as a waterlogged skin with
surface thickness, oil flow and an overall cool thermostat; the
stomach and lungs are the main seat of kapha energy.
• Viligo – aggravated pia
• Psoriasis – vata and kapha dominance/imbalance
Age-management has also been described in Ayurvedic texts as
the act of ‘arresng’ the ageing process through maintaining a
balance between the tridoshas (bio-energies) and undertaking
daily rituals such as the intake of an-ageing herbs, exercise, and
MANAGEMENT OF SKIN CONDITIONS BASED ON
Disclaimer: Some ayurvedic pracces hold significant risk for an
individual and must only be pracced aer a thorough consultaon
with a medical praconer.
There are four pracces that support cleansing and rejuvenaon
of the individuals disrupted bio-energies and may therefore yield a
posive outcome on resultant skin condions.
Eliminaon of toxins through purging and emesis or voming,
and bloodleng. The inial management of disease starts
Prescripve treatment with herbs and minerals, diet, and
lifestyle, supplemenng where needed, fasng, yoga,
breathing and meditaon are then introduced. The focus
during palliaon is to improve digeson, eliminate toxic waste,
and rebalance energies. Ginger is widely used.
• Rejuvenaon and (iv.) Psychotherapy
During these pracces, an individual must reconnect their
mind, body and soul. This is achieved by introducing roune
exercise, consistent sleep-wake cycle (up at sunrise), daily
stress management techniques, healthy diet supported by
herbal medicine and oils and sexual acvity.
PRACTICAL TAKE-HOMES FOR BEAUTY
AND DERMAL THERAPISTS
In conclusion, Ayurveda has existed long
before modern medical pracce – deeply
rooted in certain civilisaons and cultural
beliefs. Advances in dermatology are
poinng to an integrave approach –
combining pharmaceucal with ‘alternave’
methods that have yielded success since
ancient mes. In fact, within the beauty and
dermal arena, we are seeing such an
emphasis now on treatments that support
mindfulness, breathing, lifestyle, diet, and
overall wellbeing as a holisc approach to
treang common skin disorders such as
acne and dermas.
According to ‘Advanced in Integrave Dermatology’, the following
skin condions, commonly seen in beauty and dermal pracce, can
relate to imbalance of one or more bio-energies:
• Dermas – can be categorised based on the dominang
energy and characteriscs will vary from cold, clammy
dermas (kapha) to red, inflamed, and swollen dermas
• Acne – predominantly pia, but all three bio-energies are
With all forms of medicine, tradional or
modern, there may be risks and adverse
effects. As an individual, it is your
responsibility to access the informaon and
make an informed decision about
treatment. As a professional, a referral would be needed to safely
ascertain an individual’s suitability for certain Ayurvedic
Ulmately, the pracce of Ayurveda relates on a connectedness
within and between each system of our body, harmony between
these systems and our inner energy and homeostasis or balance –
and this is something we can all agree, holds significant merit for
invesgaon in successfully managing long term skin health. APJ
Which botanicals make the
most promising skincare
ONE OF THE FASTEST GROWING TRENDS IN SKINCARE IS THE
EVER-GROWING ADVANCES IN BOTANICALS. Not long ago, the
words organic and botanically based applied mainly to things we
ate, like supplements, swallowed in pill or powder form.
When it came to skincare, botanicals were not highly regarded as
due to their molecular size they were only considered to provide
superficial benefits in barrier funcon, protecng only the
epidermis from external environmental damages.
Another issue of concern, parcularly with organic skincare, was
that oen they were not rigorously formulated with sufficient
preservaves and therefore were subject to deterioraon of their
acves, as well as the potenal contaminaon of the final product
especially aer the product was opened and used. However, with
the advancement of biotechnology, and research studies validang
ingredient bioacvity, botanical formulaons are experience a
breakthrough in both safety and efficacy rivalling many synthec
In terms of consumer percepon, it makes sense that given the
inordinate energy we spend veng what goes into our bodies,
shouldn’t we devote the same scruny to what goes onto the-skin
According to several global consumer studies these are boom
mes for botanical beauty and plant-based personal care. And as
suppliers refine their selecon of botanical ingredients, the
benefits both to consumers and to brands promise only to grow.
“Natural, sustainable, and plant-based beauty is taking a major
stake-hold in the market today,” declares Paula Simpson,
nutricosmecs formulator and founder, Nutribloom Consulng
(New York and Toronto. “Plant-based and botanical ingredients are
a natural fit within this category.”
Of course, botanical ingredients have been standard in personal
care since before it was even a category. However, many of the
past limitaons are now overcome. The difference is that science
is finally catching up to the folklore, elucidang how whole-plant
or isolated phytochemical acves work, either systemically or
topically for natural beauty. From large group categories, such as
carotenoids and polyphenols-with their effects on oxidave stress,
inflammaon, epigenecs, or even the microbiome, to isolated
acves that target a specific mechanism of acon, botanicals offer
a multude of benefits and a variety of claims that both
nutricosmec and natural skincare products can capture.
NOT JUST TOPICALS
Even beer, contemporary extracon and processing methods are
improving ingredient quality, stability, and effecveness, while
granng consumers the transparency on the issues of safety that
they prize. These advances are giving botanical beauty ingredients
more than just a cosmec role, as many purified ingredients are
how being included in ingesble products, supporng system
health and beauty from within.
Another trend we are seeing is the shi toward using botanicals as
performance ingredients because they are now proven to deliver
beer benefits that can match some tradional synthec
ingredients. This advance happened as technology evolved to
process them into stronger acves and to measure performance,
thereby demonstrang efficacy.
Contemporary purificaon and standardisaon methods for
natural ingredients also ensure the acve ingredients’ stability as
well as their performance consistency, which is important with a
botanical that can vary from season to season.
WORKING AT DEEPER LEVELS
Advances in biotechnology are now able to beer understand how
botanical ingredients act on the skin, hair and nails-enabling
brands to fine-tune formulaons to target benefits. In most cases,
a botanical’s mechanism of acon produces a physical effect, such
as moisturising, or enhancing the skin’s barrier funcon. But at a
deeper level, the bioacve phytocompounds exert effects on cell
signalling and at the genec level to modify inflammaon, protein
synthesis, cell growth and division-rejuvenaon-and, ulmately,
It is encouraging to see that some nutricosmec beauty botanicals
are demonstrang impressive results in helping inhibit formaon
of advanced glycaon end products (AGEs), which research
implicates in exacerbang myriad age-related skin deterioraon
including those that weaken skin. Meanwhile, other ingredients
squash free-radical and singlet-oxygen-induced lipid peroxidaon
and prevent the fragmentaon and degradaon of collagen and
Addionally, a variety of botanical extracts are now proven to
effecvely work on pigmentaon providing an-ageing properes
by inhibing tyrosinase enzyme and melanin producon, as well as
protect cells from harmful UV radiaon. There are several
botanicals with proven anoxidant protecon, improve hydraon
and promote synthesis of fibrous proteins in the dermis.
It is a well-established fact that visible signs of ageing like wrinkles
and sagging, are ulmately impacted by both extrinsic and intrinsic
factors. There is therefore a growing trend towards a targeted
team approach using both topical applicaon and ingested
nutrients to support and opmum results through a synergisc
approached, compared to using either topical or internal alone.
The objecve of internally ingested supplements or nutrional
powers is to support overall health and nourish the blood to
deliver enriched benefits to the skin. However, how well nutrients
reach the skin internally is not an easy thing to determine, as there
are digesve and other consideraons that may need to be
overcome. For this reason, ingesng beauty botanicals can deliver
results much slower than topically applied products on the skin.
Regardless, whether through a healthy diet or through topicals, it
is now a well-established fact that beauful skin can only be
achieve through a healthy skin.
This consumer trend is experiencing a growth in mul-botanical
formulaons that deliver more therapeuc aspects, such as
calming inflammaon, resolving itchiness and skin irritaon, hair
loss and of course lasng moisturisaon is always essenal.
Whatever perks consumers seek, they’ll likely keep looking for
them in the garden as the hunger for naturally derived ingredients
will connue to grow, while they will also connue to expect
product that will work to resolve their needs. With today’s
botanicals, they can have both.
NEW ADVANCES IN BOTANICALS
We have already covered several in this issue of APJ – one being
Edelweiss. But let’s have a quick look at a few others:
We know that fruit extracts, such as apple, pineapple, peach,
apricot, jujube, and goji berry, have high levels of pecn-based
polysaccharides that are good at locking in moisture because of
their enormous, complex honeycomb molecular structure. These
compounds are water-based and leave no oily sheen, and can
replace synthecs like carboxymethylcellulose and carbomer, too,
he adds. Another good example is from Japanese Elm bark, which
has been compared to hyaluronic acid in terms of efficacy.
However, to ensure peak efficacy, water extracon of fruit-derived
polysaccharides is best, if the products made via ethanolic
extracon to maximise polysaccharide content.
Cannabidiol (CBD), the non-psychoacve cannabinoid found in
hemp and marijuana, has been subjected to numerous case
studies discovering how this botanical ingredient can “codeswitch,”
so to speak for both topical and injectable use.
Even though topical use of CBD is mainly marketed for
transdermal absorpon into systemic circulaon for pain relief and
calming acons, there are growing uses for local topical benefits,
like reducing acne inflammaon and addressing other
inflammatory skin condions, such as psoriasis and possibly
general skin inflammaon. Brands can also pair CBD with
agonists-like those derived from black pepper, clove, and
cinnamon essenal oils-to support cannabinoid receptors and
enhance CBD absorpon and acvity. Indeed, studies connue to
support CBD as a clinically proven botanical with a mul-benefit
profile and I believe we will see it connually grow its presence for
both its topical and internal use.
This amazing acve is derived from amber and is considered a
game changer for acne. It works by controlling the microbiome. In
a nutshell, succinic acid helps to clear up blemishes by supporng
your skin's natural peeling mechanisms to get rid of dead skin cells
and unclog pores. It also helps to reduce the skin's sebaceous
secreon making it a match made in heaven for oily and acneprone
The popularity of bakuchiol is constantly on the rise. A highly
acknowledge natural form of vitamin A, with extensive papers to
support its ability to provide similar benefits to renol, but without
the risks of irritaons.
Praconers of both Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine have turned
to the South and Southeast Asian herb Andrographis paniculata for
centuries, prizing its anbacterial, anfungal, even its adaptogenic
benefits. Its most pronounced and unique an-ageing effects, with
evidence of a clinically proven mechanism of acon. Topical
applicaon of the extract appeared in a study to increase
epidermal stem cell proliferaon and boost type-1 collagen
producon in normal human fibroblasts. The researchers found
that eight weeks of treatment improved skin hydraon, dermal
density, wrinkling, and sagging, leading them to suggest that A.
paniculata is a promising anaging agent.
What could possibly be beer than resveratrol, the polyphenol
credited with everything from the “French Paradox” to fighng
oxidaon? If the research is to be believed, the answer may be its
cousin oxyresveratrol, derived from the dried heartwood of the
monkey fruit tree (Artocarpus lacucha).
One study found the compound to be 150 mes stronger than
resveratrol-and 32 mes stronger than kojic acid in its ability to
lighten skin and potenally even out skin tone. Another study
reinforced the compound’s superior anoxidant acvity, inhibion
of the tyrosinase enzyme, and capacity to protect against UV
radiaon. It is also known to reduce the formaon of AGEs and
the crosslinking of collagen.
Botanicals are remarkably rich sources of compounds that inhibit
the melanin-synthesising enzyme tyrosinase-making them key
ingredients in formulaons that aim to lighten skin tone. A fing
example comes from turmeric root (Curcuma longa), which is the
source of the tetrahydrocurcumin. This acve inhibits tyrosinase
powerfully enough to slow melanogenesis and is more effecve
than kojic acid, and vitamin C as a natural depigmenng agent. A
randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled study involving 50
human subjects found a 0.25% cream preparaon of the
ingredient to be a safe and effecve alternave to a standard 4%
hydroquinone cream for topical depigmenng.
While the world is moving more and more into high-tech soluons
for absolutely everything, when it comes to skincare, it would
seem that the treasures of nature have sll much to offer, as they
connue to be the most promising and in demand. APJ
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
UPDATE ON THE REGULATORY
PROCESS OF BODY ART AND COSMETIC
THERE IS NO-DOUBT THAT BOTH BODY ART AND COSMETIC
TATTOOING are ever-growing popular procedures. However,
while they have certain similaries, they are also hugely different
with a very different consumer profile. Meanwhile there is a real
concern that both body art taoo inks and cosmec taoo (PMU)
pigments are currently unregulated in any Australian jurisdicon.
On-going invesgaons into ink safety are idenfying high risk
inks and pigments, raising concerns by Australian regulators. Since
2019 an invesgaon has been under way to idenfy hazardous
and carcinogenic substances for the purpose of restricng their
Throughout this process, APAN has been communicang updates
to the industry through our various plaorms, inving
stakeholders to comment and provide feedback.
In May 2021 we put forward to the government recommendaons
for how the proposed regulaons could be implemented to
achieve the safety objecves with the least industry disrupon.
These were opposed by certain taoo interest groups because of
potenal commercial restricons. I have therefore been asked to
provide an updated report on what happened and where the
maer currently stands, which I will present here.
PIGMENT AND TATTOO INK SAFETY CONCERN
The issue of safety for cosmec and body art procedures has led
to connued invesgaon into the safety of certain inks used in
taooing and PMU, especially as some fall into the category of
hazardous industrial chemicals (e.g., as used in photocopier toner
and car paint). As a result of the growth popularity for these
procedures, the issue of purity and safety of pigments have been
at mes overlooked in the interest of beer results and reduced
The European Union introduced in December 2020
comprehensive uniform regulaons across all 27 countries, having
previously passed resoluons on ink safety that only some
member countries adopted into regulaons (2003, 2008).
In Australia, on-going concerns on the issue of pigments and
taoo ink safety was insgated by the Australian Industrial
Chemical Introducon Scheme (AICIS).
For those who have not been updated, on 1 July 2020 AICIS
transioned from the Naonal Industrial Chemicals Noficaon
and Assessment Scheme (NICNAS) as the responsible body to
oversee safety issues regarding chemicals including pigments and
inks used for taoos and PMU. In August 2017 NICNAS
published a report on the potenal risks of certain taoo inks for
the purpose of restricng their use through a regulatory iniave.
Subsequently, the Queensland Health, Environmental Hazards
Unit was appointed to invesgate the toxicity levels of various
taoo inks as there was evidence that some are carcinogenic and
should be removed from pigments and inks.
APAN was invited to be part of this working group and contribute
to this process. As it was a technical undertaking, we appointed
Robert McGowan to provide expert contribuon to this process,
as he possesses both the academic and technical skills in chemical
safety. This process connued for two years, with a brief pause
due to COVID-19 restricons.
THE PROBLEMS THAT NEEDED ADDRESSING
In invesgang the various concerns here is what we idenfied:
The composion of body art inks and cosmec taoo pigments
have changed rapidly in the last 10 to 15 years, and they are now
more similar than different. The days of pigments being only based
on iron oxides are long gone. Taoo inks have evolved with the
removal of toxic metals, such as lead and mercury, but now
contain other toxins have been idenfied. All are referred to as
“inks” for simplicity hereaer. As no inks are made in Australia,
everything used here is imported, typically from Europe, the USA
Inks oen contain ingredients and impuries that are classified as
known or possible carcinogenic, mutagenic or reprotoxic
substances. Some contain known allergens or skin irritants.
Meanwhile, there are three main drivers for manufacturers to
include hazardous substances. More vibrant colours (body art
taoos), beer pigment retenon (cosmec taoos) and lower
costs. Ingredients (the colours) are quite oen the same as found
in photocopier toner, car paint, waterproofing, plascs etc., with
no risk assessment having been undertaken.
THE EUROPEAN POSITION
Europe has had guidelines in place for ingredients and purity
standards since 2003, with some member countries adopng
them into regulaon. In December 2020, the EU adopted detailed
uniform regulaons across all member countries aer extensive
research and consultaon by the European Chemicals Agency
(ECHA) with compliance required by January 2022.
THE SITUATION IN AUSTRALIA
While currently unregulated, if Australia establishes similar
regulaons in line with European guidelines, then imports to
Australia from Europe will almost certainly be compliant. US
manufacturers selling into Europe will also need to comply. Some
US manufacturers already label inks as “Not for sale in Europe”.
Without any Australian regulaons, inks containing potenally
hazardous or toxic ingredients and impuries will connue to
enter Australia, parcularly from the US and China. Chinese inks
are a serious issue. Brands and labels are commonly ‘fake’, being
(illegal) copies of European or US brands, but with unknown
ingredients. Many Australian suppliers have taken to imporng
Chinese products with their own brand labels (“private labelling”).
This is highly profitable, but the ingredients are unknown.
These issues will connue unless Australia chooses to implement
regulatory safety standards. While we know that skin irritants and
allergens tend to manifest relavely quickly, however, the effects
of carcinogens may take up to 20 years to manifest, perhaps as a
comorbidity. In this context the recent trend to complex organic
chemical colours (e.g., azo dyes) is a serious concern. In is also
worth nong that ink ingredients in many cases do not comply
with the Australian Poisons Standard.
THE RISKS FOR TATTOO REMOVAL
Another concern that was idenfied through our invesgaons
was the issue that laser taoo removal poses with special risks.
The concerns for those doing taoo removal arise from the
release of the same materials into plume generated by the laser
pulses used to fragment. One must recognise that chemical byproducts,
which are not present in the inial ink, may be formed
during laser taoo removal treatments. Such vapours will pass
through exisng surgical masks and surgical respirators, even
though these will stop very small solid parcles.
With taoo removal, laser radiaon superheats the ink parcles in
the skin to shaer them, but also causes major chemical changes,
with the creaon of carcinogenic amines, which is a serious risk.
Some of the EU restricons are based on potenal laser treatment
by-products. This parcular concern is also important to cosmec
doctors as well as laser praconers who while they may not be
performing taoo or PMU procedures, they are regularly
approached for taoo removal, which is considered a major
growth industry. Australian stascs indicate that one in three
individuals who have received a taoo will wish to remove it at
some stage in their life, while the latest figures state that
approximately 25% of Australian have a taoo, with some having
TATTOO-ASSOCIATED SKIN MALIGNANCIES
Several comprehensive studies have reported a rise in the
incidence of taoo-associated skin malignancies including posttaoo
melanoma, basal cell carcinoma (BCC), and squamous cell
carcinoma (SCC). (Please contact me if you require a copy of the
scienfic references as there are too many to include here).
Among cases of taoo associated skin cancers, black, blue and red
taoo inks have been parcularly worrisome in terms of their
Compared with older cases, reports indicate that more recent
paents who develop skin cancers on taoos are younger and
have a shorter delay since the taoo applicaon. It has been
suggested that new compounds with potenal carcinogens
reported in recent inks might be responsible for the development
of skin cancers.
According to the Cancer Council of Australia, several carcinogens
that have been found in taoo inks have been associated with
cancers elsewhere in the body, such as the liver or bladder. Hence
the issue is just not around cancers that develop immediately
around the site of the taoo.
OUR INTERACTION WITH QUEENSLAND HEALTH
On 27 August 2019 Queensland Health (QH) visited APAN and
held a briefing where the proposed implicaons for body art and
cosmec taoo pigment/ink regulaon was discussed and the
need to submit a report in me for when the latest Medicines and
Poisons Bill would go before state parliament.
Queensland Health explained that the Departmental Standards –
Taoo Inks would be made pursuant to secon 233 of Medicines
and Poisons Act 2019 by the Chief Execuve of Queensland
Health, that would establish procedures and requirements of use
of products. The standard would also prescribe the requirements
for a Compliant Analysis Cerficate (CAC) under secon 48A of the
Act. In essence, once the regulaon was introduced anyone using
taoo inks or PMU pigments would need to be able to present a
Compliant Analysis Cerficate that their inks or pigments comply
with the restricons and do not contain the idenfied hazardous
inks or pigments.
APAN advised Queensland Health of various logisc, cost and
me-frame issues around their inial proposals. One or more
similar briefings were held with the body art industry. Queensland
Health indicated it was working with the naonal industrial
chemicals’ regulator AICIS, with the expectaon that other states
and territories would follow Queensland’s lead on regulaon.
Since then, the latest Queensland Medicines and Poisons Act was
passed on 17 September 2019. Cosmec taoo industry
representaves were briefed on the proposed Queensland
regulaons at an APAN conference on 23 September 2019.
A working group was convened by Queensland Health involving
body art and cosmec taoo industry representaves, with APAN
represented. The first meeng of the working group was held on 1
November 2019. Topics included the work of the AICIS on ink
risks and safety, that some inks contain banned and restricted
substances in the Australian Poisons Standard, and that the
Queensland Health Minister had agreed on controls being
The second meeng was held on 11 December 2019. Proposal for
regulaons to be implemented March 2020. It was determined
that the regulaons would be based on a combinaon of the
Australian Poisons Standard (Schedule 10), the 2008 European
Union guidelines/regulaon, the work of the AICIS, and a
Queensland Health risk assessment.
On the 9 July 2020, Queensland Health advises APAN-19 that
due to COVID the delayed schedule for implementaon is for
public consultaon commencing January 2021 and
implementaon 1 May 2021.
On the 14 December 2020 the European Union passes
Commission Regulaon 2020/2081 “concerning the Registraon,
Evaluaon, Authorisaon and Restricon of Chemicals (REACH) as
regards taoo inks or PMU. This applies to all 27 EU member
11 March 2021 – Queensland Health advised it would proceed
with regulaon, with public consultaon in April and
implementaon September 2021.
On 25 March 2021 the Debt Reducon and Savings Bill (DRSB)
was introduced to Queensland Parliament including provisions for
checking ink ingredients and impurity using a Compliant Analysis
Cerficate (CAC), with penales for selling or using inks that do
not have a CAC. The DRSB provisions would be effecvely an
amendment to the Medicines and Poisons Act 2019, which
contained no provisions.
At the third meeng of Queensland Health working group on 12
May 2021, Queensland Health confirmed the basis of regulaons
(as above with EU 2020 update) and how CAC will work.
Compliance will be required by September 2021. However, the
body art industry representaves who were present raised
objecons and were very hosle against the need for compliance
as they believed there was no evidence of unsafe taoo inks and
such a regulaon will send their industry out of business.
As a result, between April and May 2021intense lobbying was
conducted by the Australian Taoo Guild and others to stop
regulaon of inks. On 26 May 2021, I received a call from the
Queensland Health Minister’s office confirming the Minister’s was
commitment to ensure appropriate safety measures were
introduced with regards to taoo inks and pigments, however, at
this point of me the Debt Reducon and Savings Bill (DRSB)
would pass with taoo ink provisions withdrawn at this me.
Despite this outcome many individuals and organisaons within
the industry reached out to offer their support. Several industry
organisaons, such as the Australian Society of Dermal Clinicians,
the Australian College of Health and Wellness, academics such as
Professor Laurence Walsh, Dr Eddy Roos and several other
organisaons contacted the Queensland Health Minister
presenng validated scienfic evidence of toxicity and known
carcinogens of certain inks including polycyclic aromac
hydrocarbons that are an ongoing health concern and the urgent
need for them to be removed.
APAN’s posion is that we have a duty-of-care for both the safety
of consumers, as well as those that work as PMU praconers, or
may be required to remove taoos that may contain heavy metals
and carcinogenic substance. It has been confirmed to us by the
Health Minister’s office that the maer has just been deferred
pending further invesgaons. I am pleased to report that on 26
August, Robert McGowan, will be joining me and Jonty Bush, who
is a Member of Queensland Legislave Assembly and a great
supporter of our industry, at a meeng with a senior advisor from
the Health Minister’s office, to discuss the next step.
Regulaons that relate to health and safety are always a very
complicated process that require a great deal of technical
knowledge and skill. They also require endless paence,
determinaon and tenacity, as well as an incredible amount of
work. It is a long and arduous process with no financial support.
At this me, I would like to acknowledge the excellent work that
Robert McGowan has contributed to this process, while also
enduring unwarranted aacks. What we both try to remember is
that this is not a polical issue and we refuse to be dragged into it
in that regard. Our intenons and commitment are purely about
ensuring a safer industry and our recommendaons are strictly
based on scienfic evidence. What we aim to ensure is an
outcome that will best protect our members, the public and the
future of our industry as a safe and responsible one. APJ
NEW HEALTH REGULATIONS FOR COSMETIC NURSES
The NSW Health Minister Brad Hazzard
has issued an update to the Poisons and
Therapeuc Goods Amendment (Cosmec
User) Regulaon 2021 which has been
published and commences 1st September
The new laws that apply to administering
cosmec medicines. Amendments to the
Poisons and Therapeuc Goods Regulaon
2008 will come into effect from 1
September 2021 to improve the safety of
the use of cosmec medicine in NSW.
The regulaon will set addional
requirements relang to the
administraon, storage and record keeping
of medicines commonly used for cosmec
purposes, such as an-wrinkle injecons
and dermal fillers.
The new regulaons will require that not
just the nurse but also the business retain
comprehensive records of the paent. If
you are operang a salon or clinic that
does not include a doctor to supervise
these procedures, it is important that you
adhere to regulatory requirements for
which you will also be liable under
vicarious liability for referring clients/
paents to the nurse or doctor.
If you are not aware of your obligaons
APAN can help. We have developed a
Standards and Regulaons Pack for
businesses that offer injectable services.
NEW REQUIREMENTS UNDER THE
The new regulaon will:
• Prohibit a person other than an
authorised praconer, or a nurse
acng under the direcon of a medical
praconer or nurse praconer, from
administering cosmec medicines (an
authorised praconer includes a
medical praconer, nurse praconer
• Require a medical praconer or nurse
praconer to personally review the
paent (including via audio-visual link)
before issuing a direcon to administer
• A wrien direcon has effect for the
period specified in the direcon, not
exceeding six months from the date
the medical praconer or nurse
praconer personally reviewed the
• If the cosmec medicine is
administered by a nurse, will require
records of the direcon to be made
and kept by the medical praconer or
other authorised praconer
• If the cosmec medicine is administered by a nurse, required records of the
administraon will need to be made and kept by the nurse administering on the
direcon of a medical praconer or nurse praconer
• Set storage requirements on the occupier of the premises where cosmec medicines
• Require businesses that provide services using cosmec medicines to keep records
made by the medical praconer or other authorised praconer, and by the nurse
administering on the direcon of a medical praconer or nurse praconer
• Require businesses that provide services using cosmec medicines to have
appropriate risk management policies and procedures in place to protect the health
and safety of paents; appropriate equipment for use in a paent medical emergency;
and to ensure that nurses are adequately trained for paent medical emergencies
• Require businesses that provide services using cosmec medicines to ensure that the
regulaons are complied with.
PENALTIES FOR BREACHING THE REGULATION
A breach of the regulaon is an offence with a maximum penalty of between $5,500 to
$22,000 and/or imprisonment for 6 months for an individual, and between $27,500 and
$110,000 for a body corporate.
These restricons do not apply where the administraon is undertaken by an authorised
praconer themselves or by an employee in a hospital acng on an authorised
WHAT IS CLASSIFIED AS COSMETIC MEDICINE?
• botulinum toxins
• calcium hydroxylapate
• deoxycholic acid
• hyaluronic acid and its polymers
• polylacc acid
WHAT WILL THESE CHANGES INVOLVE?
Currently cosmec nurses are concerned that some of these restricons may be
excessive. One such concern is that the amendment will reclassify the currently S4 drugs
used in cosmec medicine, including hyaluronic acid and botulinum toxin, to become
S4(b). This will potenally restrict the ability of nurses to inject without a doctor on
site. Remote or Skype consultaons will no longer be allowed under the proposed
As a result, there is a Change.org peon circulang that aims to oppose the amendment,
supporng that Cosmec Nurses that operate safely, diligently and within regulatory
pracces should not be restricted. We understand that the peon has been supported
with over 7,000 signatures in just one week since it was launched.
While APAN supports regulaons, we also recognise that over-regulang can be
detrimental to a qualified praconer. Many nurses, operate within non-medical clinics
and salons that do not have a resident doctor. We believe that if a nurse has appropriate
qualificaons and operates under medical supervision, this can be achieved without a
doctor having to be physically present. If you are a nurse, we recommend that you
consider signing this peon. APAN will also appeal to the NSW Government regarding
this proposed amendment, and we will keep you posted on developments.
Contact us firstname.lastname@example.org or phone 07 5503 0360 and we can assist you.
ALGORITHM FOR PRE AND
MEASURES FOR FACIAL
LASER AND ENERGY
A panel of American dermatologists and
plasc surgeons led by Michael Gold has
developed an algorithm for periprocedure
measures for facial laser and
energy devices treatment.
The algorithm has four secons
addressing prevenon, pre-procedure,
during the procedure, and postprocedure
measures. It provides a great
tool to support an opmal treatment
outcome providing physicians with
guidance to choose the best pre/postprocedure
criteria for their paents.
Prevenon is about issues the client
needs to be aware of, such as adequate
sun protecon, oral anviral prophylaxis,
Pre-Procedure emphasises pre-screening
clients' importance and effecve
consultaon detailing complete medical
and skin history to rule out potenal risks
of adverse effects.
Interesngly, it suggests recording why
the client wants such treatment and
complete informaon for informed
Intra-Procedure relates to adherence to
anmicrobial stewardship processes and
skin cleanliness - Isopropyl alcohol is not
recommended for irritancy and perhaps,
more importantly, flammable. In-depth
knowledge of the technology and
adverse events and
between these and
outcomes, such as
crusng, along with
detailed advice, all
customised for the
I agree with
to support opmal
this algorithm does.
Grover, K., Hu, S., Lorenc, Z., Mandy, S., &
Vega, J. (2021).
Algorithm for Pre-/Post-Procedure
Measures for Facial Laser and Energy
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 20(1).
Adverse effects frequently are due to
Research and Scienfic Scienfic New Developments
In every issue of the journal, Terry Everi Everi our scienfic scienfic educator, conveys a few items of scienfic scienfic interest. In italics, are
his thoughts on the subject maer maer of the research study.
incorrect paent selecon, technology, skin
preparaon, lack of anmicrobial
stewardship and lack of adequate home
care instrucon and compliance.
While this algorithm is primarily for more
invasive laser treatment, it can be used for
all laser treatments to support opmal
treatment outcomes addressing prevenon,
pre-procedure, during the procedure, and
post-procedure measures, so oen lacking.
cell factor (SCF) expression, a growth
factor of mast cells, in the human nasal
You can access the study for all the
biochemistry involved. There are lots of
how CRH induces the mast cells to
'degranulate', releasing the contents, thus
causing the inflammatory process.
It appears that CRH has a dual role:
short-term proinflammatory acon (mast
Human Nasal Mucosa. Internaonal
Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2 (5), 2773
CRH is the most proximal, key regulator of
the central hypothalamic–pituitary–adrenal
(HPA) stress response axis, which ulmately
controls the producon and secreon of
glucocorcoids in the adrenal gland.
Mast cells have a vital sennel funcon and
ALLERGIC REACTIONS MAY
BE TIED TO THE
It is known that psychological stress
exacerbates mast cell (MC) dependent
inflammaon, and this study gives an
indicaon of how this occurs, at least for
The significant stress mediang
hormone (CRH), acts primarily as a potent
MC secretagogue; CRH induces MC
By introducing CRH to a nasal polyp
organ culture, researchers saw a
significant increase in the number of mast
cells, a smulaon of MC degranulaon
and proliferaon, and an increase of stem
cell degranulaon) and a lasng
immunoinhibitory funcon (smulaon of
local corsol synthesis by keranocytes).
Yamanaka-Takaichi, M., Mizukami, Y.,
Sugawara, K., Sunami, K., Teranishi, Y.,
Kira, Y., Paus, R., & Tsuruta, D. (2021).
Stress and Nasal Allergy: Corcotropin-
Releasing Hormone Smulates Mast Cell
Degranulaon and Proliferaon in
are involved in the pathobiology of various
skin condions such as atopic dermas,
psoriasis, and alopecia areata, all
exacerbated by stress. Not surprising, given
human peripheral ssues also express
funconal HPA equivalents, including CRH,
adrenocorcotropic hormone, and corsol,
and provide negave feedback regulaon.
We also know that CRH operates on
mulple levels in the
skin, inducing the
in the dermis helps
ARE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
SO NECESSARY IN SUN
In a small yet excing qualitave study
from the USA, parcipants were shown
two sunscreen products and asked
quesons regarding looking for acve
ingredients on a sunscreen label, the
importance of acve ingredients in their
decision to buy and recall of any acve
ingredients the labels shown.
The mean age of the 47 parcipants (32
female and 15 male) was 42.8 years, with
85% having a bachelor's or graduate
13 (28%) stated that sunscreen
ingredients influenced their sunscreen
selecon, yet only 5 (11%) said it was the
most crucial informaon. 34 (72%) stated
that the sun protecon factor rang was
10 (21%) reported typically looking at
acve ingredients when choosing a
sunscreen; however, only 5 (11%)
parcipants recalled any of the acve
ingredients aer viewing the sunscreen
While acves in sun protecon were
important to many, most had no idea
what the acves were or could recall
them aer looking at labels indicang
that the acves are a low priority for this
group of consumers.
Previous studies found cosmec elegance
was the most posive feature, followed
by product performance.
Tribby, C., Julian, A., & Perna, F. (2021),
Perceived Usefulness and Recall of
Sunscreen Label Informaon by
Consumers. Journal of the American
Medical Associaon Dermatology,
Published Online: March 24, 2021.
The acve ingredients give the SPF and the
product's essenal funcon, yet the
ingredients themselves are not a primary
factor in their decision-making.The same
can be said for the Australian consumer,
which shows the need for consistent
educaon by skincare professionals as to
the performance rather than the elegance of
sun protecon. APJ
ARE YOU FEEDING SKIN
A joint research team from Osaka and
Keio University's in Japan and the
University of California San Diego found
that Streptococcus pyogenes (S.
pyogenes), a species of bacteria that can
cause severe illness if it invades the
human body, can survive on the skin
using arginine as a source of nutrion.
Not only can this bacterial organism
cause skin infecons, but it can also
cause life-threatening illnesses, such as
sepsis and toxic shock.
S. pyogenes generally do not survive well
on the skin. It has been unknown how it
can cause such havoc on the skin, and it
appears we now know why.
It was previously established that some
bacteria break down the amino acid
arginine via a biochemical pathway
named the arginine deaminase (ADI)
pathway. This study researchers show
that this pathway upregulates genes
associated with the virulence of S.
pyogenes, such as those that produce the
In the skin, arginine from stratum
corneum-derived filaggrin was an
essenal substrate for the ADI pathway
of S. pyogenes, which explains why this
Research and Scienfic Scienfic New Developments
In every issue of the journal, Terry Everi Everi our scienfic scienfic educator, conveys a few items of scienfic scienfic interest. In italics, are
his thoughts on the subject maer maer of the research study.
species can rapidly produce, causing
infecon in a habitat in which it usually
does not do well.
While this study indicated arginine from
filaggrin breakdown, it would be great to
know if this is the only source or does the
S. pyogenes uptake arginine from
products applied to the skin, given such
ingredient is used as a free radical
scavenger in several products.
Hirose, Y., Yamaguchi, M., Sumitomo, T.,
Nakata, M., Hanada, T., Okuzaki, D.,
Motooka, D., Mori, Y., Kawasaki, H.,
Coady, A., Uchiyama, S., Hiraoka, M.,
Zurich, R., Amagai, M., Nizet, V., &
Kawabata, S. (2021). Streptococcus
pyogenes upregulates arginine
catabolism to exert its pathogenesis on
the skin surface. Cell Reports, 34(13),
108924. DOI: 10.1016/
This research discovers a crical element of
understanding why this microorganism in
low quanty on the skin can rapidly mulply
to cause serious infecons. Hopefully, such
knowledge could lead to new therapeuc
approaches to tackle diseases. APJ
GREEN TEA COMPOUND
AIDS THE GUARDIAN OF
Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), a
significant component in green tea, has
been found to protect p53 of cells.
We know that p53 has several wellknown
funcons, such as acvang DNA
repair while halng cell growth for
effecve repair to occur. If DNA damage
cannot be repaired, it iniates apoptosis,
which stops the cell from mutaons.
EGCG binds with the end of p53, which
stops the protein from degrading. In
doing so, EGCG increases the power of
p53, acng in an an-cancer funcon. A
protein termed MDM2 acts on p53 to
degrade, which EGCG stops.
This study showed that EGCG binds
directly to tumour suppressor p53,
inhibing p53 degradaon.
Zhao, J., Blayney, A., Liu, X., Gandy, L.,
Jin, W., Yan, L., Ha, J., Canning, A.,
Connelly, M., Yang, C., Liu, X., Xiao, Y.,
Cosgrove, M., Solmaz, S., Zhang, Y., Ban,
D., Chen, J., Loh, S., & Wang, C. (2021).
EGCG binds intrinsically disordered N-
terminal domain of p53 and disrupts
p53-MDM2 interacon. Nature
Communicaons, 12, 986. hps://doi.org/
The p53 protein has a flexible end, known
as the N-terminal domain,
allowing it to perform
different funcons via
interacon with mulple
molecules for differing
outcomes for cellular health. If
p53 does not successfully
have DNA repair and does not
affect apoptosis, then the cell
mutates, frequently causing
cancer to develop. Such a
finding allows the more
outstanding opon for cancer
cell suppression and from an
easily obtained source. APJ
and treang skin diseases. While away off
yet, when this becomes commercially
available, it will revoluonise skin analysis.
The resoluon is at a μm-level that offers a
higher degree of accuracy when
differenang between topographies of the
repression of gene expression, or the
switching-off of individual genes to help
control responses to changing
environments and smuli. Researchers
discovered two central Polycomb
repressive complexes, PRC1 and PRC2,
have autonomous yet overlapping
funcons in repressing Polycomb target
3D SKIN IMAGES VIA A
PORTABLE DEVICE FOR
genes, which allow epidermal cell identy
and normal skin development.
It has previously been established that
A team in Singapore has developed a
baery-operated device that measures
7cm by 10cm, weighs only 100 grams,
that produces high-resoluon 3D images
of human skin within 10 minutes. The
machine presses a specially devised film
of polylacc acid onto the subject's skin
to obtain an imprint of up to 5 by 5
cenmetres, then subjected to an electric
charge, generang a 3D image.
A complex network of precisely recorded
skin surface morphology with vercal
dimension informaon is captured on the
film, which is flexible to map features on
uneven skin areas, such as the creases of
an elbow and fingerprints.
Fu, X., Cheong, Y., Ahamed, A., Zhou, C.,
Robert, C., Krikstolaityte, V., Gordon, K.,
& Lisak, G. (2021). Diagnoscs of skin
features through 3D skin mapping based
on electro-controlled deposion of
conducng polymers onto metal-sebum
modified surfaces and their possible
applicaons in skin treatment. Analyca
Chimica Acta, 1142, 84-98. DOI:
Such a non-invasive, simple, and
inexpensive device could be used to
complement current methods of diagnosing
ARE ESSENTIAL FOR SKIN
You may not have heard of polycomb
complexes, but these complexes are vital
in maintaining the gene-expression
paerns during early skin development
by regulang the structure of DNA and
proteins in cells.
Found to play a crical role in the
Polycomb complexes are oen
overexpressed in epithelial cancers,
including skin cancers.
Cohen, I., Bar, C., Liu, H., Valdes, V., Zhao,
D., Galbo, P., Silva, J., Koseki, H., Zheng,
D., & Ezhkova, E. (2021). Polycomb
complexes redundantly maintain
epidermal stem cell identy during
development. Genes & Development,
35(5-6), 354-366.DOI: 10.1101/
I think the finding of this study in using such
Polycomb inhibitors have implicaons for
the development of stem cell therapies to
produce "skin on a dish" to use for
transplantaon techniques and in the
treatment of skin cancers. If nothing else, it
shows another aspect of the fantasc skin
Research and Scienfic New Developments
In every issue of the journal, Terry Everi our scienfic educator, conveys a few items of scienfic interest. In italics, are
his thoughts on the subject maer of the research study.
biochemistry that we are unaware of that is
so vital to the skin homeostac funconing.
respecvely, and facial elascity
increased 28.2% from baseline.
Wamsley, C., Kislevitz, M., Barillas, J.,
Basci, D., Kandagatla, V., Hitchcock, T.,
Akgul, Y., & Kenkel, J. (2021). A Single-
Center Trial to Evaluate the Efficacy and
Tolerability of Four Microneedling
Treatments on Fine Lines and Wrinkles
of Facial and Neck Skin in Subjects With
Fitzpatrick Skin Types I-IV: An Objecve
Assessment Using Non-invasive Devices
and 0.33-mm Microbiopsies. Aesthec
Surgery Journal, online publish-ahead-ofprint,
1–16. DOI: 10.1093/asj/sjab052
While this study was with needle length not
typically used in a non-medical seng, the
results showing collagen type III and elasn
gene expression were stascally higher
three months post-treatment could be
generalised to aesthec needling, although
perhaps not so evident.
The results illustrate the effects of
microneedling treatments of which we know
of affecng skin architecture. APJ
COLLAGEN AND ELASTIN
A small yet robust study of 32 subjects
(93.75% female, 6.25% male) completed
four monthly sessions of medical
microneedling over face and neck with a
one and three-month follow-up. They
were aged between 44 and 65 years old
with Fitzpatrick skin types I-IV. A local
anaesthec of 20% benzocaine, 8%
lidocaine and 4% tetracaine was applied
to the treatment areas for 30 minutes,
then washed with saline followed by
isopropyl alcohol. Needle length was 1.0
and 2.5 mm, depending on paent
tolerability and the ease of achieving the
clinical endpoint, being a confluent zone
of pinpoint bleeding,
Invesgators used high-resoluon
ultrasonography, opcal coherence
tomography, transepidermal water loss
and BTC-2000 as well as 0.33mm microbiopsies
to assess the efficacy of
microneedling on facial and neck fine
lines and wrinkles.
At three months post-treatment, facial
dermal and epidermal density increased
an average of 101.86% and 19.28%,
Not surprisingly, collagen type III and
elasn gene expression were stascally
higher post-treatment, yet total elasn
protein levels were unchanged.
This study adds to previous histologic
analyses that objecvely substanated
the benefits of these treatments, showing
increased epidermal thickness with welldeveloped
rete ridges, increased
expression of collagen types I to IV and
VII and fibronecn.
Image: average needle length of all
treatments from all paents (range 0.75 –
While most of us have done
microneedling on clients for ages now,
microneedling is becoming an
increasingly popular treatment for
androgenec alopecia (AGA). The
variance of needle length for
effecveness has always been in
A small study has found a needle length
of 0.6 mm (in combinaon with minoxidil)
was most effecve. Two groups of 30
subjects (mix of female and male) each
underwent six treatments for 12 weeks,
with a cartridge of 9, 33-gauge needles
0.2 mm diameter. A third group acng as
control had no micro-needling treatment.
• Group A used minoxidil 5% loon and
biweekly micro-needling with a depth
of 1.2 mm.
• Group B used minoxidil 5% loon and
biweekly micro-needling with a depth
of 0.6 mm.
• Group C only used minoxidil 5% as
the control group.
Aer 12 weeks, all had increased hair
growth from the baseline, with the two
groups receiving micro-needling having
more hair growth than the control group.
Of these two groups, group B treated
with 0.6 mm needles had more significant
hair growth and hair thickness.
It has been generally accepted (yet not by
all) that needle depth greater than 1.0
mm is needed, which this study shows
otherwise, with needle depth being the
Pre-treatment (A) and post-treatment (B)
appearance in a paent receiving six
sessions of micro-needling with a depth
of 0.6 mm p. 1244
Faghihi, G., Nabavinejad. S., Mokhtari, F.,
Naeini, F., & Iraji. F. (2021).
Microneedling in androgenec alopecia;
comparing two different depths of
microneedles. Journal of Cosmec
Dermatology, 20(4), 1241-1247.doi.org/
While this was undertaken with a prescribed
drug, many OTC drugs and cosmec
ingredients have great promise in hair
restoraon, so they easily could be
incorporated into your hair restoraon
FOLLICLE STEM CELLS
We know that stress can lead to hair loss
and lack of pigmentaon in the hair.
Researchers from Harvard University
have idenfied how this occurs in finding
that the stress hormone corcosterone
causes hair follicle stem cells to stay in an
extended resng phase without
The stages of hair growth we are familiar
with are determined by hair follicle stem
cells. When the stem cells are acvated,
hair grows then goes quiescent, and hairs
stop the growth and shed more quickly.
Under normal condions, hair follicle
regeneraon slows over me - the resng
phase becomes more prolonged, and hair
loss is a sign of ageing.
Corsol acts on a cluster of cells in the
dermal papilla, prevenng the expression
of a molecule 'Gas6' that causes the
acvaon of hair follicle stem cells.
arficially 'feed' the Gas6
molecule, the follicle stem
This discovery follows
from previous work by the
same group who found
why hair may turn grey
with stress via acvaon
of the sympathec
nervous system, which
depletes melanocyte stem
cells via nerve derived
These findings suggest that the
significant switch for hair follicle stem cell
acvity is not from the dermal papilla yet
is in the adrenal gland. It works by
changing the threshold required for stem
Choi, S., Zhang, B., Ma, S., Gonzalez-
Celeiro, M., Stein, D., Jin, X., Kim, S.,
Kang, Y., Besnard, A., Rezza,A., Grisan,
L., Buenrostro, J., Rendl, M., Nahrendorf,
M., Sahay, A., & Hsu, Y.
(2021). Corcosterone inhibits GAS6 to
govern hair follicle stem-cell
quiescence. Nature, 592, 428–432.
Research and Scienfic Scienfic New Developments
In every issue of the journal, Terry Everi Everi our scienfic scienfic educator, conveys a few items of scienfic scienfic interest. In italics, are
his thoughts on the subject maer maer of the research study.
The study's results also have broader
implicaons for stem cell biology showing
that ssue biology of one part of the body is
interconnected with the physiology of
another part some distance away.
Although stress has does impact both
melanocyte and hair follicle stem cells, the
pathways are different.
treatment with an 805 nm diode laser
and an IPL device with a 640–1200 nm
• Group 1: one IPL treatment and
three diode laser treatments.
• Group 2: two IPL treatments and
three diode laser treatments.
however, there are fundamental differences
in how they are built and in the light they
emit, making a vast difference.
DIODE LASER HAIR
AFTER IPL HAIR
If, for some reason, you were thinking to
combine IPL with diode laser for laser hair
removal, then don't, as it reduces the
efficacy of the treatment.
Forty-five females (21–23 years old; skin
type II-III) underwent hair reducon
• Group 3: three IPL treatments and
three diode laser treatments.
• Group 4: three diode laser treatments
The percentage of hair loss was most
significant among the paents treated
with a diode laser only.
The authors posit that the inial
treatment with the non-coherent light of
the IPL weakened and thinned the hair,
impeding the absorpon of 805 nm
wavelength by the melanin in the hair.
Thereby negavely impacng the
effecveness of the diode laser.
Aa-Moe, M., & Zaleska, I. (2021) The
results of the diode laser hair reducon
treatments aer the IPL hair reducon
treatments, Journal of Cosmec and Laser
Therapy, Published online: 09 Jun 2021.
Lasers and IPL acon are similarly based on
the selecve photo thermolysis principle.
The melanin acts as chromatophore;
Before you rush out for an eyelash
transplant, think this through. Eyelashes
have had a plethora of treatments over
the decades -nts, perms, growth serums
extensions and now transplantaon.
This involves hair taken from the scalp
and inserted individually into the lash
line, giving a permanent result that could
last up to a lifeme, although not
Such is surgery so that the usual surgical
side effects can occur, not to menon the
cost of insurance.
The transplanted hairs frequently fall out
with the crusts at 5 to 8 days aer the
procedure, connuing for approx. two
weeks. New hair begins to grow in the
fourth to the six-month window and will
connue to grow. Such can be a problem.
Remember, these are scalp hairs that can
produce extended growth and in various
direcons. Cung the hairs result in
blunt ends that are not the natural look of
eyelashes, so they will need constant
curling to lessen the 'blunng effect', and
the hairs will be much heavier than
natural eyelash hairs. APJ
WE ARE LAUNCHING A
UNCERTAINTY BREEDS ANXIETY and
during these turbulent mes businesses
must remain agile and flexible to change.
If you are a business owner in this
industry, you are oen required to carry a
diverse range of responsibilies to
maintain business viability. In our industry
the compounded stress is oen leading to
mental health issues contribung to
reducon in producvity and inability to
visualise strategies for sustainability and
implement a plan for future growth.
Our research has confirmed that almost
42% of businesses we surveyed stated that
because of the challenges in coping with
their stress, they preferred to decrease
staff numbers and downsize their business.
While the Government is making available
helplines, APAN believes we can provide a
higher-level of support by taking an
industry-specific focused approach in
mental health and business skills
development. As a result of on-going
industry feedback, we are launching the
MENTAL HEALTH AND BUSINESS
HOW THIS PROGRAM CAN BENEFIT
This is a clinically proven 12-unit program
developed by a highly qualified HR and
wellness expert who is designing the
program to provide a customised approach
in line with our specific industry needs.
WHAT IS INVOLVED?
The MENTAL HEALTH AND BUSINESS PROGRAM will provide you with an easy to
implement self-paced, self-directed learning plan that will be supported by mental health
and leadership development tools. It will help to strengthen your resilience and enhance
your capacity to view the future with greater opmism. You will gain the skills to idenfy
opons and viable possibilies for sustainability and on-going growth.
Another benefit of this program is that it will help enhance the way you connect with
others and improve relaonships, both in the workplace and beyond, This will allow you
to improve producvity and enhance individual and team collaboraon.
The program is skilfully designed with several tools to support your progress. You will
have access to acvity guides, worksheets, videos and feedback forms with a call to
acon. To monitor your progress, you will be encouraged to appoint an “accountability
buddy” or you can request a consultaon with a coach to guide you through the process.
The skills you will learn will help you prevent mental health issues, master stress, develop
self-leadership and accountability, master courageous conversaons and more.
Life will connue to have its disrupons, however focused help is now available, and
incredible opportunies are sll within your reach if you have the right mindset. APAN is
connuing to lead the way toward quality, results-driven soluons. We ancipate that the
first three units will be available by August/September. Each unit will have a specific
focus in skills development to get you started. Collecvely the program will be
transformaonal for business owners and their team. You will be able to incrementally
self-pace yourself through the program as each unit will provide you with incredible
content and great value.
If you are interested in accessing the MENTAL HEALTH AND BUSINESS PROGRAM,
please complete the EXPRESSION OF INTEREST FORM below so that you can be
nofied as soon as it is released. APJ
If you require further informaon, please phone APAN 07 5593 0360.
LIST YOUR BUSINESS TODAY
W e b s i t e P r o fi l e
S o c i a l M e d i a S h o u t o u t s
B e a P o d c a s t G u e s t
F e a t u r e i n D i g i t a l M a g a z i n e
A c c e s s P r i v a t e B 2 C g r o u p
S c a n h e r e t o l e a r n
m o r e a b o u t h o w y o u
c a n g r o w y o u r
b u s i n e s s
ARE YOUR DOCUMENTS
With the support of their lawyers APAN has
developed 48 REGULATORY AND BEST
PRACTICE DOCUMENTS to help you
streamline your business’s backend, ensure
your regulatory compliance and achieve a
level of excellence and order in how you run
LEGALLY COMPLIANT INFORM
CONSENT FORMS FOR
• Skin Needling
• Cosmec Taooing
• Photographing your clients
• And much more …
ARE YOUR POLICIES LEGALLY
WRITEN AND UP-TO-DATE?
• Cancellaon Policy
• Refund Policy
ESTABLISHING COMPLIANCE WILL ALLOW YOU TO INTRODUCE A
LEVEL OF CALM, ORDER AND GREATER PEACE OF MIND.
(07) 5593 0360 email@example.com www.apanetwork.com/resources