APJ Vol 47 2021


Aesthetics Practitioners Journal Volume 47 Winter 2021 - The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN)





“I am extremely passionate about

MEDER. In the 20 years that I have

been in the beauty industry, it is

the first skincare range that truly

resonates with me. I love that it is

science-based, results-driven,

restores the skin's microbiome, is

Pre & Probioc, ethically sourced

and packaged, and created by an

incredibly intelligent woman. How

could I not love this range!

I personally use all of the products,

and I have seen such great results

with my own skin, not to menon I

have been achieving outstanding

results with my clients. There is no

beer feeling than to see people

regain their confidence because

their skin is healthy.

And that is thanks to MEDER!”

Mia Bella

Advanced Skin & Beauty

Sunshine Coast




Manufactured in Switzerland under the

highest quality-assured standards.


Meder Beauty Science offers 6 easily marketable professional

treatments to provide soluons for the most skin concerns.

The combinaon of organic plant extracts and the latest biotech

ingredients make Meder Beauty Science one of the few truly

effecve clinically proven cosmeceucal brands in the global market.


excellence in treatment outcomes.

0466 338 844








































































































Dr Giulia D’Anna

(07) 5593 0360



Typeseng & Graphics

Angus Thompson

Amy Dylko

TEV Group Pty Ltd

Adversing & Markeng

Tina Viney

Phone: (07) 5593 0360


Fax:(07) 5593 0367

Mobile: 0412 177 423

Aesthecs Praconers

Advisory Network

PO Box 5448, Q Super

Centre QLD 4218



TEV Group Pty Ltd

Design & Producon

Artwork and Editorial

TEV Group Pty Ltd

Unit 7D 76-84 Robina Town

Centre Drive, Robina QLD

4226 Australia

Phone: (07) 5593 0360


Mobile: 0412 177 423

Printed For

Aesthecs Praconers

Advisory Network

ACN: 136 987 169

ABN: 25 136 987 169

Accounts Payable

Aesthecs Praconers

Advisory Network

PO Box 5448, Q Super

Centre QLD 4218

Journal Advisory Board

Terry Everi - Educaon


Wendy Neely - PR and


Dr Douglas Grose - Scienfic


Naonal Advisory Council

John Fergusson

Terry Everi

Chris Testa

Gill Fish

Carole Jackson

Julia Grinberg

ISSN: 1836-9812

Pint Post Approved


Circulaon 6900


Front Cover


Karen Playel

+ 61 452 449 045



For further informaon see

pages 10-13, 76-77.

The Aesthecs Praconers Journal is the official publicaon of the Aesthecs Praconers Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network

organisaon established to service the needs of the aesthecs industry in the area of professional development and business

networking. The Aesthecs Praconers Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform

and educate its members on beer business pracces and industry advancements. All editorials and arcles that are submied for

publishing remain the property of Aesthecs Praconers Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproducon in part or in whole is not permied

without prior wrien authorisaon by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scienfic and technical informaon

presented is as accurate as possible at the me of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek

external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendaons.


Dr Giulia D’Anna


I am wring this editor’s leer from

whatever day of isolaon it now is. I am

sure that for many of us in the country, we

have “iso-fague”. But even though we

might all be going through different

emoons on a daily (or maybe hourly)

basis, I must admit that I have found the

lockdown has provided me with some me

to get things done.

Since last year, I created a list of things

that I will do when I have me. During

normal business hours and funcon, this

list just sits there and accumulated. During

lockdown, I get it done! I have undertaken

so many different educaon courses, it

might be called an addicon, but one I am

very happy to admit.

The APAN conference fuelled this educaon desire of mine quite beaufully. The APAN

conference is one I always look forward to. The way our CEO Tina Viney has put it

together, is truly amazing as it caters for everyone around the country. Those in lockdown

can binge-watch it. Those sll working their usual hours, have 30 days to go back, watch

and revise. Truly revoluonary compared to most other online events which come and go

so quickly. Thank you Tina!

This issue is packed again with lots of inspiring arcles and informaon. This me we have

pulled together some really interesng pieces about skincare ingredients, COVID-19

strategies and some informave business arcles. I have wrien a piece on one of my

passions, which is around the lips, and what happens through the ageing process. It would

be so lovely to hear from you and tell me what you think.

So, stay posive and bright. We are all in this together. Here in Melbourne, we are so used

to the hard lockdown, that I know ‘we got this’. Anyme you need support or just

someone to talk to, reach out. Both myself, and APAN are here anyme you need us.

Unl we meet.




APJ Contributers

Terry Everitt

Terry Everi is regarded as a ‘Master

Skincare Professional’ due to his extensive

knowledge in the art and science of

skincare. A very competent educator and

regular lecturer on aesthec and medical

conferences where he presents up-to-date

informaon from an evidence-based

scienfic perspecve. Terry is the Director

of Aesthec Educators Pty Ltd.


Katherine McCann

Katherine McCann has moved to her new

dual posion within APAN. Her new tle

will now be Regulaons and Standards

Advisor and Press and Media Liaison.

Addionally, Katherine will connue to

contribute to APJ through arcles on

Cosmec Taooing as this is an area in

which she is truly an expert.

0405 069 311


Gay Wardle

Gay Wardle is a well-known mulawarding

winning industry expert and a

renowned lecturer who conducts

advanced skin analysis training for

businesses and their staff on all issue

pertaining to skin science.

0418 708 455


Jacine Greenwood-


Jacine Greenwood is an internaonally

recognised educator who is known within

the industry for her up-to-date knowledge

and her ability to deliver training in an easy

to understand method. Jacine holds six

Diplomas, including a Diploma of Cosmec

Chemistry and a Bachelor of Nursing. Her

knowledge is highly respected in the

cosmec industry. With over 22 years

experience in the industry and a

background of cosmec formulaon,

Jacine has an immense knowledge of

current trends in research and new

developments in the industry.

07 3807 1429


Deb Farnworth-Wood

We are delighted to welcome Deb

Farnworth-Wood as our new business

expert. Deb will be sharing her wealth of

knowledge in each issue of APJ.Her column

- Wisdom in Business will present

valuable, business-boosng ps. Deb is a

leading figurehead and business

development expert with amazing

achievements, also within our industry.

She has an incredible reputaon as a serial

entrepreneur. Expect to gain winning

strategies from this amazing woman.


Trish Hammond

Trish Hammond is an award-winning blog

and social media expert and the director of

Plasc Surgery Hub. She is renowned for

her skilful wring and interviews in all

facets of the social media space. Her

company specialises in the Aesthecs,

Cosmec Surgery and Cosmec Medicine

industry sectors for which she provides

personalised and comprehensive services

to help businesses communicate

powerfully, grow their brand and capture

new clients and paents.

0429 264 811




Tina Viney


Dear colleagues and friends,


challenging month as several cies have been impacted with

COVID-19 lockdowns. However, may I encourage you all to stay

strong and connue to look at how you can move forward and

stay true to your dreams.

We regularly receive calls from despondent members who are

feeling somewhat overwhelmed and insecure. However, aer

speaking with many business owners and exploring their opons,

we are ALWAYS able to idenfy a strategy that perhaps was never

considered that will help them to move forward with renewed

hope. It thrills me to hear a level of confidence return in their voice

as they explore a new approach.


It is indeed incredible that despite the current chaoc disrupons

we are experiencing new opportunies for businesses to grow

connue to surface.

Even in this issue of APJ you will find several new companies that

are excited about supporng businesses and clinics to achieve ongoing

business success. They cover both new advances in

nutrional supplements, as well as topical formulaons with a

stronger focus on managing inflammaon, restoring the skin’s

microbiome and immunity, and accelerang healing in traumased


Also, many of our regular companies that support us are

connuing to innovate with new product and equipment

developments, please reach out to them and allow them to

support you in refining what you are currently doing and step-up

your services and your results. You will find them in this issue of

APJ Journal.

The other day I was thinking about the lockdowns and the

dynamics that are impacng us all during these disrupons and I

would have to say that the biggest enemy is ulmately within, and

it’s called FEAR. When you really think about it, there are 365

days in a year. The lockdowns are oen one to two weeks with

the maximum being 60-90 days. Rather than focusing on what

business you will lose during these days, why not focus on how

you are going to make the rest of the year successful? Explore

ways to make up for the temporary losses. This is not a pipe

dream, it is an absolute possibility, we have seen it happen to so

many salons and clinics me and me again. Make sure you are

one of the survivors – you owe it to yourself and your clients.

Having said that APAN is relentlessly commied to dialogues with

the government about the danger and risks of lockdowns to

businesses, as they are not sustainable and alternave soluons

are urgently needed. We are also working collaboravely with

other organisaons in this effort.


There has never been a more important me to guard our mind

and our thoughts. This is a mely season to strengthen your

skillset on mental and emoonal agility and embrace new ways of

relang to others and doing business. It will not only help you gain

the strength to overcome the current challenges, it will allow you

to also develop mental stamina to face the future, whatever it


As we explore and review the needs of the industry, we are

constantly seeking ways to stand with you and support you in your

personal and professional journey, whether you are a praconer

working for others, or a business owner. At this me your needs

may be diverse, but they are also universal. While technically you

are constantly seeking ways to connue to improve your skills, you

also need to invest in appropriate tools to help your mental and

emoonal wellbeing, and at this me you need a tailored program

that addresses three key areas:

• Personal resilience: mastering your thoughts

• Communicaon: Improving your communicaon and

relaonships with others


“Where there is

division there is

weakness, but where

there is unity there is


- Helen Bryce

• New business strategies: Gaining new business skills to

address today’s challenges.

APAN is oen referred to as the forerunner when it comes to

industry innovaons, and for several months now, at the top of

our list has been to develop a mental health and business survival

program that was not generic, but designed specifically around the

needs that we are idenfying through our regular interacon with

the industry.

While we reviewed several exisng programs we were not

convinced they were specific enough for our industry. Aer

extensive research we idenfied the person that we believe would

be able to customise a program specifically for our industry.

This individual was referred to us by a member of our Advisory

Council and has impressive qualificaons and credenals in the

area of Human Resource Management and Mental Health.

Over the past few months, we have been working with their

company to design a 12-unit program that can be incrementally

undertaken to help you gain incredible skills in improving mental

and emoonal health, agility, improve communicaon skills with

others and gain the mindset to help move forward with your


The cross-over of behavioural, personal, and business

development are the perfect skillset that we believe will benefit

every business owner to achieve tangible support and advance

skills to transform their current challenges into opportunies. We

ancipate that the first few units will be available by the end of

August/September. We truly believe that everyone will be able to

benefit from this program. We will make it affordable, so it is

accessible to all. Please see pages 106 for further details and

register your expression of interest. We know you will love it and

it will provide you with incredible benefits.


This year is shaping up to be the year of regulaons.

TATTOO PIGMENT REGULATIONS: We are currently working

with the Queensland Health in the ongoing review of regulang

taoo pigment/ink safety. At the me of wring of this journal I

can confirm we have a scheduled meeng with the Queensland

Health Minister’s office on 26th August as discussions connue.

You will find more details on this iniave on pages 94-96.


included a review of both licences and standards.

TGA DEVICE REFORMS: Addionally, we have had an extensive

meeng with the TGA in Canberra as they are reviewing the need

for Device Reforms with a consultaon that was circulated earlier

this month. They are currently going through a process of

amending Australia’s medical devices regulaons. The proposed

refinements of the regulaon are for medical devices such as

lasers and IPLs that also introduce substances into the human

body via a body orifice or applied to the skin.


These will introduce some more stringent measures and will

commence 1st September 2021 (see page 97).

I wish to also report that our online conference was a great

success and we received excellent feedback. Let’s believe that in

2022 it will be feasible to conduct a face-to-face conference as we

are also looking forward to meeng with many of you again.

Please note that your feedback is crical to us as we navigate the

best possible ways to support you. To our wonderful members, our

sincere thanks and gratude for your on-going support as you

allow us to connue to serve you.

United we stand.





NeoGenesis launches

Adult Skin

Stem Cell Technology


Molecules from Mulple Tissue Specific

Stem Cells


DISRUPTIONS, sciensts connue to invesgate ways of

providing us with hope towards a beer world through their

specific areas of research.

In the area of skincare, NeoGenesis is taking the lead, achieving an

incredible breakthrough ulising specific adult skin stem cell

patented technology (S²RM®). This skincare range was recently

launched in Australia, bringing new hope in treatment outcomes

for three specific areas of need:

• An-ageing: skin renewal and rejuvenaon

• Inflamed skin: eczema, psoriasis, acne, reacve/sensive skin

• Traumased skin: Post invasive and non-invasive treatments

and oncology related burns treatments

While skincare and wound healing products with varying

ingredients abound in the marketplace, stem cells and the

molecules that they express, or release, are rapidly emerging oen

with lile or no regulatory oversight, or robust scienfic validaon.

Specifically, confusion exists amongst doctors, skincare

professionals and end-users about the stem cell types, their

molecules, and the use of both cells and molecules in formulang

topical and injectable products. Efficacious topical products can be

a great preventave strategy for ageing skin and its associated

afflicons, but which ones are scienfically validated?


NeoGenesis skincare formulaons are based on robust evidencebased

science and are developed to deliver safe, fast, and

efficacious treatment outcomes. Their co-founder and Chief

Scienfic Officer Greg Maguire Ph.D. is a renowned scienst with

impressive credenals from various universies.

University of Texas, The Marine Biological Labs, Woods Hole, MA,

and Cold Spring Harbor Laboratory, NY.

He is a former professor of neuroscience and ophthalmology at

the University of California, San Diego School of Medicine (UCSD),

a vising associate professor of physiology at Keio University

School of Medicine in Tokyo, Japan, vising assistant professor of

molecular neurobiology at the University of Washington, and a

vising scienst at Massachuses General Hospital (MGH), at

Harvard University.

Dr. Maguire was awarded a presgious Fulbright-Fogarty

Fellowship from the Naonal Instutes of Health (NIH). He

managed his NIH funded laboratory at UCSD, studying ssue

degeneraon and regeneraon, and the role of stem cell released

molecules (SRM). Dr Maguire was mentored by Dr. John Bertrand

Gurdon, Ph.D., a professor of developmental biology at Cambridge

University, who was awarded a Nobel Prize in Physiology or

Medicine in 2012 for his pioneering work in stem cells.

Through Dr Gurdon Dr. Greg Maguire learned the techniques of

nuclear transfer, and the translaon of microinjected messenger

RNA molecules in oocytes to analyse DNA to RNA and for protein

synthesis. These studies resulted in the development of

S²RM® technology on which NeoGenesis is based.

So, what is the science behind the NeoGenesis formulaons and

what is the significance of S²RM® technology? To understand this,

we first need to review the method of stem cell harvesng and

gain an understanding of the important role of stem cell released


In brief, Dr. Maguire pursued his graduate training at the

University of California, Berkeley, University of Houston,

APJ 10

Model: Catherine Roberts

© Joseph Bogges


NeoGenesis harvests mulple human stem cell types from healthy

adults who have donated skin ssue voluntarily through cerfied

ssue banks in the United States. This process is highly regulated

by the FDA and other regulatory agencies. These “skin resident”

stem cells are sourced from the dermal and hypodermal layers of

the skin. The molecules that are released from these stem cells

have naturally evolved to support the repair and regeneraon

processes in our skin throughout our lives. The collecon of

molecules from the stem cells contains no genec material and are

composed mostly of a variety of proteins needed to maintain and

heal the skin’s structure and funcon.



NeoGenesis uses a patented technology called Stem Cell Released

Molecules (SRM). The term S²RM® is used to show that two or

more types of skin resident stem cell lines are needed for skin

repair and regeneraon. This technology mimics the healing

process that takes place in our bodies naturally, by simply

returning to the damaged ssue the molecules that were present

in greater abundance when the skin was young and healthy.

Instead of subjecng the stem cells to crushing and chemical

extracon methods to collect a sub-opmal and damaged (Lee et

al, 2017) set of molecules, or adding in non-skin resident

anoxidants, pepdes, and growth factors in the lab, NeoGenesis

uses the full and natural complement of molecules released, not

extracted, from the stem cells that already encompass all of those

nave properes known to maintain and heal the skin by replacing

what you’ve lost over me.

Equally important, the SRM helps to build the stem cell niche of

the skin, which has been found to maintain the stem cells resident

in the skin in a less aged state (Ge et al, 2020).


Using the correct set of adult stem cell types that are resident in

the skin (not stem cells from other parts of the body that serve

funcons other than to maintain and heal the skin) is the key to the

NeoGenesis technology. This concept is called “ssue specific

stemFuchs and Blau, 2020). This means that sciensts idenfy and

ulise the correct stem cell types that are nave to the skin to

opmally repair and regenerate skin ssue.

APJ 11

NeoGenesis stem cells are ethically derived from healthy adult

ssue donaons, a process highly regulated through the FDA, to

support a natural approach to healing; therefore, they do not use

embryonic, bone marrow, or plant-derived stem cells. For example,

research shows that bone marrow stem cells in skincare may cause

rapid, but limited improvements in the skin at first, but with

prolonged use, can cause an over proliferaon of cells that may

lead to accelerated ageing, increased inflammaon, and even

cancerous development (Maguire, 2019).

NeoGenesis products are abundant in the molecules that the skin

already naturally produces, but have diminished in quality and

numbers through ageing, disease, or environmental factors. This

methodology (Maguire, 2014) provides a natural approach to

healing called “systems therapeucs” where we simply return to

the damaged ssue the many molecule types that were present

when it was healthy. And because we use the many molecules that

are nave to the skin to return the skin’s physiology back to a

normal state, we can achieve very efficacious and safe outcomes

using the S²RM® technology (Maguire, 2019A). This is called

“systems therapeucs for physiological renormalisaon” (Maguire

and Friedman, 2019).



The efficacy of the NeoGenesis serums and moisturisers is derived

from their patented S²RM® technology, where they use skin

resident adult human stem cells to produce molecules that are

then protected and delivered by exosomes. Exosomes are smart

nanospheres (similar to liposomes, but operate more efficiently),

with an innate ability to easily diffuse through ssues, seek out

target cells, and pass the brain-blood barrier (Maguire, 2016). The

lipid bilayer of the exosome contains transmembrane proteins with

a variety of external pepde sequences, and number

polysaccharides and proteins on the outer layer that also help to

impart smart behaviour to the liposome-like structure of the

exosome, this makes the exosome more funconal than its manmade

counterpart, the liposome. Addionally, given their unique

lipidome, exosomes are more pliable than liposomes and can

therefore more easily squeeze through small passages in the skin.


The exosome is part of a mul-fold mechanism of acon in the

skin whereby one exosome can deliver 20,000 proteins to a site

(Maguire, 2016), all arriving together and focused on repair of the

damaged area. This is vastly different and far more effecve than

delivering 20,000 proteins randomly, without focus, arriving at

different mes and locaons. Without exosome delivery,

randomly diffusing the proteins in this way, repair is also more

random and less complete. The natural pepde sequences found

with the exosome along with number polysaccharides and

proteins on the outer layer would also be missing without the

presence of the exosome.

are used by several companies for their stem cell molecules, as

opposed to the more advanced and expensive release technology

used at NeoGenesis, yielding molecules that may not be fully

formed and not packaged into the exosome delivery system.


NeoGenesis S²RM® technology provides the proteins (molecules)

needed to heal the ssue (collagen and other matrix proteins) to

migate scars from forming (Maguire, 2019). As healing ssue is

constantly rebuilding, they connue to provide those proteins for

normal, not scarred, healing. There will be a poron of the

damaged collagen that does not remodel. In this case, you are le

with what you have. Some of the damaged collagen remains.

Therefore, NeoGenesis products provide the proteins needed to

remodel damaged collagen for more complete and natural healing,

but not all collagen, will remodel. In the womb, scarless healing

takes place in a sterile environment. Once someone is out in the

world, it is a very dirty environment that creates the need of a

quick and rapid proliferaon of collagen to close the wound

quickly. Flawless healing is not a consideraon by the body, only

quickly closing a wound for protecon from the pathogens,

angens and toxins impinging on the wound bed. Older scars are

showing us the part of the collagen that could not be remodelled

however an improvement can oen be shown in older scars.

Using S²RM® technology, NeoGenesis products used in

conjuncon with professional treatments such as microneedling,

may have a posive effect by pung the scar back into healing

mode and remodelling any collagen that may be healed more



NeoGenesis products can treat a wide variety of condions by

supplying the molecules (proteins) needed to strengthen the ssue

and bring it back into balance. When the ssue is in balance

(homeostasis), it is far less likely to result in the symptoms of

inflammaon, severe dryness, itching, blistering, pain, or skin

damage from ageing or acne. Creang homeostasis in the skin

therefore results in an improvement in appearance and symptoms

such as ageing skin, acne, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, cold sores

and shingles.

NeoGenesis Recovery serum has been shown to reduce the

burning, blistering, darkening of the skin and pain associated with

cancer treatments. When applied to injuries to the skin, such as

small cuts, abrasions and burns, the skin heals quickly and in most

cases, without leaving a scar. Bruises have been shown to

dissipate more quickly when NeoGenesis serums are applied.

Because the S²RM® technology is natural to the skin, it is a very

gentle approach to skin condions for even the most sensive

skin. APJ


It is the patented S²RM® technology found in many NeoGenesis

products that creates superior repair and maintenance of the skin

as it ages, or becomes damaged. By delivering the needed blend of

proteins for repair, NeoGenesis is able to quell inflammaon and

provide the skin with the nutrients it needs to funcon as it did

when it was young and healthy.

Exosomes are naturally produced in great quanes by human

stem cells in the body and when the correct steps are carefully

taken to process human stem cells in the laboratory, the same

quality and quanty of molecules is produced in the lab as it is in

the body. NeoGenesis produces the full complement of molecules

and exosomes for superior delivery and bioavailability, bringing

damaged ssue back to a state of homeostasis.

Technologically inferior and less expensive extracon processing

APJ 12






The NeoGenesis system comprises of a unique

and highly effecve product range that is

completely safe, non-toxic, and works to

opmise and restore the skin’s own

homeostasis. These products are perfectly

paired to deliver successful pre and post

treatment care.

Using their patented S²RM® technology

NeoGenesis products provide targeted and

efficacious result for a variety of skincare

needs, even the most challenging. They

support the skin to achieve transformaon by

providing the molecules and nutrients that

help the skin heal and repair more rapidly.



Karen Playel

0452 449 045



APJ 13



WOMEN’S DAY we decided to feature in every issue of APJ

the life of an inspiraonal woman who impacted the world

through their courage and incredible contribuon. In the

previous issue we featured Florence Nighngale as the

amazing force that contributed to nursing becoming a

respected profession. In this issue we are featuring the

illustrious life of Estée Lauder who shaped the cosmec


Estée Lauder, the founder of the company that bears her

name, was a visionary and a role model. She was a challenger

who proved that anything was possible — if you dared to

dream it and had the guts and gumpon to go for it. Ahead of

her me in every way, she created and ran one of the world’s

most presgious and innovave skincare companies while

serving as a wife, mother and a loyal friend to many. And she

did it all with charm, humour and exquisite style. She loved

beauty with a passion and believed wholeheartedly in its


Born in 1906, Josephine Esther Mentzer, Estée Lauder was

raised in Queens, New York, by her Hungarian mother, Rose,

and Czech father, Max. The name Estée was a variaon of her

nickname, Esty.

Her interest in beauty was sparked in high school when her

Hungarian uncle came to live with her family and created

velvety skin creams, first in the kitchen, then in a laboratory

in a stable out back. From her uncle, Estée not only learned

how to concoct the wonderful creams, but also how to apply

them to women’s faces.




The Estée Story

remained married unl his death in 1982, and she later

regreed her divorce, saying that she married young and

assumed that she had missed out on life but soon found out

that she had the "sweetest husband in the world."


Estée got her start selling skincare and makeup in

hairdressing salons, demonstrang her products on women

while they were sing under hair dryers. In 1946 she and

Joseph Lauder officially launched the company, and a year

later they got their first major order: $800 worth of products

from Saks Fih Avenue.

She started her business with four skincare products and a

simple philosophy that every woman can be beauful. Armed

with that philosophy, plus perseverance, creavity and

passion, she became a driving force and changed the face of

the cosmecs industry.


In the late 1920s, Estée met Joseph Lauter when she was in

her early 20s. On January 15, 1930 they were married and

moved to Manhaan. Shortly thereaer, the couple adopted

the surname Lauder, correcng a misspelling that dated back

to when Joseph's father emigrated from Austria to the United


Their first child, Leonard, was born March 19, 1933. The

couple separated then divorced in 1939 and she moved to

Florida, but they remarried in 1942. Their second

son, Ronald, was born in 1944. Estée and Joseph Lauder

APJ 14


Estée had innate insncts for what women

wanted and was the consummate

saleswoman and marketer. She believed

that to make a sale, you had to touch the

consumer, show her the results on her face

and explain the products. That was the

start of the company’s personal High-

Touch service.

She was one of the first cosmec icons to

introduce the "Gi with Purchase" idea

and took it to new heights, elevang it to

such popularity that it became a standard

commercial pracce with other brands as


Working closely with women she quickly

learned first-hand how to smulate a

woman’s desire for beauty and how to

provide them with appropriate cosmec

care that combines the sensorial feeling of

beaufully-craed skincare with the alure

of personal indulgence, as a daily ritual.

One of her famous sayings was “Never

underesmate any woman’s desire for


Once the Estée Lauder brand began to

adverse, Estée insisted that the print

images be both aspiraonal and

approachable and selected one model to

represent the face of the brand at any

given me. She picked the pale turquoise

colour for the brand’s jars, believing it

conveyed a sense of luxury and matched

all bathroom decors.

Estée Lauder was a brilliant marketer who

knew how to appeal both to the elite, as

well as the masses basing her adversing

on an innate understanding of what the

average woman truly longed for – to

nurture their own femininity and to

culvate their own beauty.

Estée was passionate and extremely

hardworking and aended the opening of

virtually every new store and stayed for a

week to instruct her beauty advisors on

sales techniques and merchandise display.

Always stylish and well dressed, she

became a role model of what women could

aspire to by using her products. Always

gracious and approachable, she crossed

the naon to meet with store buyers and

beauty editors and to talk to consumers.

She was a one-person research and

promoonal department.

Decades before social media became

mainstream, Estée ran word-of-mouth

campaigns. Her oen repeated mantra was

“Telephone, Telegraph, Tell a Woman.” She

believed that women who liked her

products would spread the word.



Estée Lauder was not only a skin care

pioneer, she also had a wonderful fragrance “nose.” One of her earliest

successes was her Youth-Dew creaon, a blend of rose, jasmine, vever and

patchouli that would bring her olfactory fame.

Unl the 1950s, most women reserved fragrance for special occasions. A

woman would wait for her husband to give her perfume on her birthday or

anniversary. Estée wanted to find a way for women to buy their own

perfume, so in 1953 she created Youth-Dew, a bath oil that doubled as a

skin perfume. This innovaon took the cosmecs industry by storm,

changing the way fragrance was sold and transforming the fledgling start-up

company into a mulmillion-dollar business.

Estée was the quintessenal entrepreneur who refused to listen to experts

or sele for anything less than the very best. She constantly challenged the

status quo and is described as someone you simply couldn’t say no to.

A serial entrepreneur she oversaw the creaon of five addional brands —

Aramis, Clinique, Prescripves, Lab Series and Origins — and always insisted

that the company’s products be made from the highest-quality ingredients.


Estée Lauder was an iconic cosmec innovator that changed the way

women related to skincare and cosmecs in general, making them a staple

part of their everyday roune. She was always in the know about fashion

trends, and founded and launched her namesake brand at a me when

Givenchy, Chanel, Dior, Balenciaga and other designers were shaping the

latest fashions.

Estée loved New York City and drew inspiraon from its sophiscated,

vibrant, stylish culture. In the middle of the 20th century, New York was the

“No one EVER became

a success without taking

chances...One must be able to

recognise the moment and seize

it without delay...”

Estée Lauder

APJ 15

global centre for art, architecture, innovaon

and entrepreneurship. Although Estée's heart

was in New York, she had homes in the South

of France, London and Palm Beach, among

other localies. She travelled the world and

loved to visit museums and art galleries, aend

fashion shows and learn about her customers

and their respecve cultures.


As a visionary businesswoman, Estée Lauder

was honoured with many awards during her

career. Receiving the French Legion of Honour

from the Consul General of France, Gerard

Causer which was one of the high points in her

life. In January 16, 1978 she was the first

woman to receive the Chevalier

Commendaon and she was inducted to the

Junior Achievement U.S. Business Hall of Fame

in 1988. She received the Presidenal Medal

of Freedom in 2004.

Estée supported numerous civic and cultural

programs and other charitable causes,

including the restoraon of the Palace of

Versailles and the building of several

playgrounds in New York City’s Central Park.

in Manhaan in April 2004 at the incredible

age of 97.


The world has changed dramacally since

Estée Lauder created her brand in 1946. But

the core values she embodied - respect for the

individual, integrity, generosity of spirit and

entrepreneurship remain at the heart of the

Estée Lauder Companies and connue to

inspire women of all generaons.

Today the brand engages with women in more

than 150 countries and territories and at

dozens of touch points — both in stores and

online. And each relaonship consistently

reflects Estée’s powerful and authenc

convicons and unique point of view. More

than 48,000 employees connue Estée's bold,

breakthrough efforts, with a commitment to

helping millions of consumers discover and

express their own beauty.


Renowned as one of the world’s most

influenal woman. She was sort out and

became friends with some of the most famous

celebries, royalty and arsts of her me and

was known for her impeccable style and her

warm and gracious entertaining.

The only thing more important to Estée than

the Company was her family, and she was

thrilled that her children and grandchildren

joined the family business.

Having lived an illustrious lifeEstée finally

rered in 1995 and passed away in her home

APJ 16

I am a proud


APAN member!

I am supported with

— Expert advice

— Resource documents

— Regulatory and business support

— Educaonal conferences

— Qualificaons’ recognion

— Promong my business on SalonHubAustralia.com.au

— Connecng with my community on social

— Strong representaon for my needs with the


— Represent what will best serve me within regulaons

(07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com/membership

APJ 17





Dr Giulia D’Anna


onward, our genec chronology means that we produce less

collagen every year. This is seen in changes all over the face and

body, but parcularly in the lower face.

There are several changes that occur in the lip as a result of

ageing. The most notable is in the lip ssue itself. In youth, the lip

is bound by a mucosal covering. Underneath this is a layer of fat

that surrounds the Orbicularis Oris muscle. This is important as it

gives voluptuous and structure.

In the perioral region, the cutaneous poron of the lip contains

hair follicles, sweat glands and most importantly, small oestrogen

receptors. Again, these give the cutaneous part of the lip structure

and volume.

posteriorly, and the lateral aspects of the mandible also loses

volume and height. This translates to movement of the teeth and

again less support of the lip ssue.

The cutaneous part of the lip starts to lose collagen and this is

parcularly accelerated in menopausal women. The oestrogen

receptors start to see a decline in the essenal hormones,

resulng in an over-exaggerated response in the lips. Barcode

lines – also known as smokers’ lines – start to appear with every

contracon of the Orbicularis Oris muscle.

The vermillion border will start to lose volume too, as the fat

content over the Orbicularis Oris muscle decreases with me. This

results in folding of the muscle and the result is less lip display, this

further compounds the appearance of marionee lines, since

there is more compression of the lip onto the lower lip, with the

reduced supporve ssue.

Part of our response to these changes will be:

• Check the dental occlusion and make improvements where


So, what happens when we age?

The underlying skeleton of the face changes in several ways. The

maxilla starts to narrow and regress posteriorly. This provides less

support to the upper lip, as the teeth shi, due to the shiing

paern in the bone shape. The mandible also undergoes some

changes too. The alveolar bone becomes thinner and moves

APJ 18

• Increase the collagen and hyaluronic acid producon in the

perioral region and lips through smulaon

• Use of skin boosters to improve skin condion and hydraon.

• Balancing lip posion with neuromodulators.

• Increase Hyaluronic Acid deposion through the use of fillers.

This will provide structure and support to the lip, helping to

'upright' the Orbicularis Oris muscle.


Changes in the dental occlusion, or the way teeth bite, are

constantly occurring through life. We can have a vercal

dimension change (where the teeth close over each other more

than they used to. Vercal dimension changes can occur as a

result of tooth wear, tooth loss and crowding of the teeth.

As the vercal dimension of occlusion changes, the distance

between the maxilla and the mandible is also changed. Therefore,

the posion of the upper and lower lips at smile will also change.

The movement of the corners of the mouth is dictated by the

modiolus (also known as the oral commissure or chellion), where

eight muscles meet. In parcular, the Zygomacus Major and the

Depressor Anguli Oris muscles, which insert into the zygomac

arch and the mandible, respecvely. So, changing the vercal

dimension, will result in a changed lip posture and posion also.

The other change that can occur with the

dental occlusion over me, is a loss in

dental protrusion of the teeth. This means

that instead of the teeth being nicely

posioned and holding the lip ssue out,

there can be crowding where the teeth

crowd over one another. This leads to the

teeth sing less prominently, and thus the

lip posion will also be less projected.

Combined with the loss in vercal

dimension, this results in the lips being less

everted and further results in the folding in

of the lip itself.

projecon of the teeth themselves, so the lip support from

both the teeth and supporng maxilla and mandibular bones

will be increased. Some broad opons are tradional bracket

braces and the more contemporary approach of aligners to

straighten the teeth.

• Restoraon of teeth. Many mes, paents will opt for the

quick fix. This is where we use dental restorave techniques to

enhance the teeth. By adding porcelain veneers over the teeth,

the length and projecon of the teeth will also be improved.

Again, this has a supporve effect on the lip structure sing

on top.

• Replacement of missing teeth. Whenever we lose a tooth,

there is a resulng loss of the bone that would normally sit

around the roots of the natural teeth. Replacing the teeth will

result in beer dental occlusion or bite, and again beer

support. There are a number of treatment opons for replacing

missing teeth.

These are:

• Dentures

• Dental implants

• Dental bridges



Strategies to increase collagen and HA are wide and varied, and

largely depend upon the technologies and equipment you have in

your clinic. Some opons include:

• Microneedling

• Light-based energies, such as IPL, LED and laser

• Radiofrequency, or similar energy-based devices.

All of these smulatory treatments are aimed at ‘ramping up’ the

fibroblasts that are non-producve. With increased producon,

our clients will begin to noce an improvement in the cutaneous

lip stability, and also the resistance of the lip to creasing when the

mouth muscle is contracted. Several sessions will be required, and

maintenance over me too.

Strategies to correct the lip support from the teeth are long and

varied. But in summary some opons may include:

• Correcon of tooth posion with orthodonc treatment. This

will create and increased vercal dimension and increased


Unlike tradional Hyaluronic Acid dermal fillers, Skin-boosters are

a form of Hyaluronic Acid that are completely non-crosslinked.

Cross linking is the amount of bonding that is usually present in

dermal filler that gives it the ability to li, enhance and be stable in

the skin for months or years at a me. Non-crosslinked HA cannot

do this. They act similar to an “injected hydrator” that improves

APJ 19

skin health and vitality, without any enhancement. We all know

that hydrated skin funcons beer, as nutrient perfusion and

cellular acvity is improved. Skin-boosters work on this principle.

The Skin-booster treatment is not intended to fill lines and

wrinkles. Instead, it is to hydrate the skin and promote formaon

of new collagen and elasn in the long term. Paents noce a

more dewy and firmer appearance to the skin and more of a ‘glow’

as a result. Unlike tradional dermal fillers, they are not injected

beneath the skin to volumise or accentuate certain features of the

face. Instead, they are injected directly into the dermis to hydrate

and improve overall skin quality. The Skin-booster’s stabilised HA

is very fluid, so the final result is smooth and subtle resulng in a

healthy, plump and glowing complexion.

1. Highlighng the Glogau-Klein point of the lip

2. Improving the philtral columns

3. Improving the vermillion border definion

4. Improving the natural volume of the lips

Depending upon the lip type – Type 1 being an already wellformed

lip, through to a Type 5 being a lip type that has

completely lost lip structure – different techniques can be

employed to enhance the lips. In my pracce, I use three main

techniques, but frequently use hybrids of all three to achieve my


It is recommended to do three treatments,

two to four weeks apart following with

maintenance treatments every four to six

months. This is perfect for paents that

would like the ‘untouched look”.



Newtons third law states that “for every

acon, there is an equal and opposite

reacon”. This is the same for the muscles

of the face. The use of neuromodulators, or

Botulinum Toxin Type A, can assist our

paents by removing the depressor muscles

that pull the lips in a downward direcon.

One of my favourite treatments is to

provide a ‘jowl li’. This involves

administering Botulinum Toxin to the

Depressor Anguli Oris (DAO). The DAO is

responsible for pulling the corners of the

mouth, when grimacing or making a sad face. The jowl li is a

precise treatment helps to modify the corner of the mouth. Since

the DAO cannot pull down, the elevator muscles have the

resulng acon of liing the oral commissures. This helps to

decrease the marionee lines and improve the overall appearance

of the lips.

The techniques I use rounely are:

• Classic lip enhancement

• Cannula lip enhancement

• Tenng – a.k.a. Russian– technique

The scope of this arcle cannot cover

which technique is best used in which

circumstance, but each has benefits for

each type of lip structure, and which area of

the lip requires enhancement. I spent the

last six years teaching these techniques to

improve outcomes for Doctors, Densts

and Registered nurses, and have an excing

program available to really solidify this


The best results come from a combined

approach or using several techniques to

achieve rejuvenaon of the lips and perioral

region. Not all paents will opt for an

enhancement, and similarly, not all paents

will undertake tooth correcon treatments.

The concepts here are to work as a team

reviewing the best possible soluons for

the paent’s individual needs. APJ


Lip enhancement is not always about creang big lips. In many

cases, my aim for my paents is to restore structure and

architecture to the lips. This will be aimed at:

APJ 20

APJ 21


Formulators of PHYT’S



Jérodia Group


the French group Jérodia with nearly 50 years of experse to its

credit, is constantly developing new organic cosmecs to nurture

its consumers' wellbeing and help businesses pivot their focus to

fulfill the growing demand for safe, result-driven skincare opons.

The Jérodia Group now has several brands made in France and

internaonally, including Phyt's, Gamarde, Françoise Morice.

Renowned for the high quality of their formulaons, Jérodia

Group, in addion to their brands, are also accessed by other

natural cosmec brands to white label some of their formulaons

and benefit from their extensive knowledge. Jérodia Group is

considered globally as a leader and specialist in organic




Being part of the pioneers in that field, Laboratoires PHYT'S,

located in the South of France, have since 1972 been commied

to developing natural cosmecs and food supplements to promote

organic farming, far from pescides, synthec ingredients, and

toxic chemicals.

The group places great emphasis on research and development in

the formulaons of their quality innovaons. Thanks to mulple

manufacturing facilies, all their products are manufactured

without the need for sub-contracng part of the process

elsewhere. This ability to group and control all aspects of the

producon process from the research and development to the end

products, has allowed them to develop unique and comprehensive

experse, as well as ensure the quality assurance of all their

products, which are distributed in France and globally.


In addion to offering labelled organic, natural, or vegan products,

Phyt's and the Jerodia Group as a whole, place great emphasis on

social and environmental responsibility. Raw materials are sourced

primarily in France and when this is not possible, Jérodia turns to

fair trade materials.

Laboratoires Phyt's is also commied to promong local

employment and maintaining an agricultural acvity reoriented

towards organic. The company supports local iniaves and

creates partnerships favouring local, high-quality, cerfied organic

supplies that opmise the raw materials' carbon footprint.


As with its respect for nature, people remain at the centre of the

brand's holisc beauty philosophy. Each product is developed to

achieve visible results, while bringing pleasure to the user. Both

effecveness and the client experience are never overlooked.

Phyt's offers a complete and comprehensive skincare range that

meets an extensive range of skincare needs including oily and

problemac skin types to mature with an-ageing skincare

requirements. The range includes skin-lightening and rebalancing

products, a comprehensive moisturising range, a sun range,

slimming body products, as well as a baby range and a selecon of

skincare soluons for men. In short, their skincare soluons are

extensive and exceponally comprehensive.


Phyt’s Laboratories develop treatments for both professional use,

as well as homecare. The uniqueness of the brand is that all

professional treatments are packaged in single-use kits filled with

glass vials that guarantee perfect hygiene and preservaon of



There are now many organic cosmecs brands available, and the

current pandemic has undoubtedly been a trend accelerator

towards clean and organic consumer preferences. Organic is now

anchored in our lifestyle. A recent consumer report released by

Stasa indicated the annual global market growth for organic and

natural beauty reached 10.4% in 2021 with a forecast of ongoing

growth of 9.4% in the next 12 months. Comparavely to the

global beauty market annual growth which came in at only 5.25%,

posions the organic and natural market at an impressive twice

the growth.

Meanwhile, Phyt’s connues to innovate to ensure they lead in

offering the highest quality products, because not all organic

products are created equal! They are considered experts in this

APJ 22

area. From the beginning Phyt’s have been

proponents and innovators of natural and

organic cosmecs. Leading the way, Phyt's

Laboratories today are integrang green

chemistry technologies opening new

possibilies to the use of novel ingredients,

while keeping their integrity and safety in

terms of 100% natural and organic


Their compeve advantage is that their

products are formulated with ingredients of

natural origin that match the results of acve

cosmecs in clinically proven ways. Phyt’s

constantly introduces products that are at the

leading edge of this market segment.



PHYT'S products are defined as bio-acve

cosmecs. All their formulaons are made

from 100% natural origin ingredients, free of

synthec preservaves, GMO and harmful

chemical ingredients. They are cerfied

organic in accordance with the Cosmebio

requirements. This charter gave birth to very

demanding specificaons filed with the Ministry of Industry in

France. It was developed specifically for the cosmec industry

and covers far beyond ingredients coming from organic farming. A

bio-acve cosmec means that, aside from the absence of

pollutants such as pescides, chemical ferlisers, GMO, CMR,

which in the long-term are harmful to our body and the

environment, the cosmec product is rich in bio-acve properes

with a significant amount of acve ingredients. The Phyt’s values

and philosophy are now understood and demanded by distributors

and consumers alike. They do not develop cosmecs that mask

symptoms as synthec chemicals oen do, but organic cosmecs

designed to nourish and revive the skin metabolism.



0416 143 537 or 1300 656 627


APJ 23




PHYT’S MOST RECENT innovaon is the Panacea high-end range

- an exceponal global treatment for the face and eye contour.

PANACEA - the new entrant in the luxury high-performance

skincare category comes in two products – a divinely nutrious

cream, and an incredible eye-contour product. Both products

combine global age-defying acons with the heavenly fragrance of

rosewood, novel eco-packaging, and a definite focus on skin

health and safety, as well as an 100% natural and cerfied organic


We all love a story that inspires and intrigues. A decade in the

making, Panacea has now been stepped-up to enter the luxury

high-performance market segment. The range was inspired by the

unparalleled resilience of the Edelweiss flower, an extremophile.

Extremophiles are plants (and other microorganisms) that live in

extreme condions and have adapted to thrive in the most

inhospitable environments like extreme cold, heat, or isolaon.

They have survived by adapng to these environments and today,

are the craze of sciensts learning how to use them as acve

ingredients in cosmecs.

Edelweiss is such a plant. It grows at 6,000 to 10,000 feet in

limestone where UV exposure is high and cold temperatures can

be extreme. Edelweiss extracts have a high concentraon of

flavonoids and phenolic acid to fight UV-induced damage and

make them an ideal constuent of sunscreens. The same

components that protect the flower from intense ultraviolet rays

at high altudes also protect our skin from sun damage.

The Edelweiss flower is loaded with anoxidants that scavenge

the harmful free radicals and help to reverse the visible signs of

ageing. It is also contains a high concentraon of Leontopodic

Acids A and B that smulate and increase producon of hyaluronic

acid and prevent collagen degradaon, thus reducing the

appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Packed with other exceponal ingredients, Panacea cks all the

boxes for purity and efficacy through its incredible synergisc acon

to combat the visible signs of skin ageing, bringing skincare results to

a new level. Panacea will: reduce the appearance of wrinkles, ghtens

the skin, reduce oxidave stress and reduce pigmentaon irregularies.

Results are nothing short of spectacular, with wrinkles size, depth

and width significantly reduced:

* 51% of wrinkles, * 56% of wrinkle surface, * 57% in wrinkle length.

Ref: 1. Instrumental test carried out on 20 women aged 45 to 70 – twice

daily applicaon morning and evening for 28 days.

Panacea La Crème is available in a refined, eco-designed, 100%

recyclable packaging made of FSC cerfied cardboard consisng of

more than 50% hemp fibre. The box does not have any glue points or

film coang, further improving the ability to recycle the packaging.

Panacea La Crème, Eye Contour formula is a hybrid texture between

gel and cream contains the flagship ingredients found in the cream,

enriched also with Annurca apple extract and a concentrate of acve

milk proteins. Laboratory tesng has confirmed the exceponal

response to the main problems associated with ageing of the delicate

eye contour:

*Wrinkles, *Saggy skin, *Dehydraon, *Puffiness and dark circles.

Rapid visible results include:

• 36% less visible wrinkles aer 15 minutes 1.

• 28% of dark circles and puffiness are soened, and the eye

contour is lied 2.

Ref: 1. Instrumental test - 20 women - 45 to 70 years - 15 min aer

the 1st applicaon. 2. Scoring - 20 women - 45 to 70 years - twice

daily applicaon - 28 days.

Research strongly confirms the growing number of consumers who are

priorising their cosmec and skincare choices with specific criteria,

which include not only results, but also environmental responsibility,

pure, clean, organic and safe formulaons to support the health and

appearance of their skin. The stascs are quite evident and astute

business owners are taking note. Phyt’s is considered a global leader

in quality, purity and efficacy in organic skincare. Their products will

support your business to address a variety of skincare needs for both

skin and body, men, and women. Their innovave formulaons are

beaufully present and ck all the boxes on what consumers are now

looking for. APJ

For further informaon contact Phyt’s - orders@phyts.com.au 0416

143 537 or 1300 656 627 www.phyts.com.au

APJ 24


Complete age defying Soluon

Panacea, the first 100% natural and cerfied organic formulaon has been stepped-up to enter the

luxury high-performance market segment. Inspired by the unparalleled capacity for resilience of the

Edelweiss flower known for its extremophile powerful anoxidant.

Experience significant improvement in:

• Appearance of wrinkles

• Skin firming and ghtening

• Reducon of oxidave stress

• Reducon in pigmentaon and skin tone irregularies

Spectacular results in wrinkle improvement:

* 51% of wrinkles, * 56% of wrinkle surface, * 57% in wrinkle length.

Ref: 1. Instrumental test carried out on 20 women aged 45 to 70 – twice daily applicaon morning and evening for 28 days.

1300 143 537

0416 143 537


APJ 25




Seng a new standard in skin rejuvenaon

In pursuit of ‘flawless skin’ the new

‘minimum standard’ on social media, is

undoubtedly fuelling demand for skin

resurfacing treatments worldwide.

Although the vast majority know that

images of perfect, oen ‘poreless’ skin are

usually heavily filtered and that flawless

skin is extremely rare in real life, many are

sll happy to spend me and money in its

pursuit. CO2 laser treatments were

considered the best treatment opon for

people wanng to improve their skin’s

appearance, but due to the associated pain

and lengthy downme, increasing numbers

of consumers are choosing fraconal

resurfacing treatments like the Venus Viva.

This technology uses NanoFraconal Radio

Frequency (RF) with SmartScan technology

to repair mild to severe skin damage

without affecng the surrounding ssue.

However, the Viva stands out from other

RF devices because it is highly

customisable – the praconer has total

control of ablaon, coagulaon and

resurfacing to customise every single

treatment for opmal safety and efficacy.

This means praconers can dramacally

improve the appearance of skin

imperfecons (including acne scars, stretch

marks, rosacea, enlarged pores, wrinkles

and pigmentaon) for EVERY client in just

two to three treatments with minimal

discomfort and downme!

Venus Concept Australia educaon

manager Whitney Stronach says the Venus

Viva delivers dramac treatment

outcomes. Aesthec professionals know

no two skins are alike, but unfortunately,

many skin treatments sll can’t be safely customised.

“In the past, this has meant that many clinics were frustrated because they knew they could not

deliver the results that consumers were looking for, but thanks to the Viva, clinics can now offer

real hope, with a treatment that can step-up results, to all their clients,” Whitney said.

“In fact, according to Whitney, the Venus Viva is so customisable it can effecvely replace

all the other skin resurfacing devices in many clinics.

“From experience with our clinic partners, we know that the Venus Viva can outperform

any previous treatment result,” she said.

“Flawless skin may not be possible for everyone, but the Venus Viva can dramacally

improve the appearance of every skin. It is the only skin resurfacing system that most

aesthec clinics will ever need, Whitney said.”

The Venus Viva’s key features include:

Venus Viva MD applicator (for skin ablaon and resurfacing)

• Uses unique NanoFraconal RF technology with adjustable ablaon and coagulaon

parameters, to deliver radio frequency energy into the skin

Has two p opons for highly customised treatments: 80 pin p (up to 124 mJ/pin)

and 160 pin p (up to 62 mJ/pin).

SmartScan Technology

• Uses unique algorithm and paern selecon technology that enables operator to

generate customised paerns for maximum flexibility and control.

• Enables ablaon and coagulaon of the epidermis and dermis zone in a fraconal


• Eliminates the need to use addional ps during treatments.

Diamondpolar Applicator With (Mp) Technology (for non-invasive wrinkle reducon)

• Uses proprietary (MP)2 technology, a combinaon of Mul-Polar Radio Frequency

(RF) and Pulsed Electro Magnec Fields (PEMF) to smulate fibroblasts, induces

fibroblast proliferaon and increase new collagen producon. APJ

For more informaon visit hps://www.venusconcept.com/en-au/venus-viva-md.htm

APJ 26

APJ 27




Jacine Greenwood-Drummond


most definitely be confronted with the dreaded skin condion

known as glycaon. For many years this condion was considered

to be the result of cross-linked collagen, however new research is

now uncovering that this is not the case. In this arcle JACINE

GREENWOOD-DRUMMOND is presenng compelling evidence

that is idenfying other reasons why glycaon occurs in the skin.

Skin glycaon impairs the epidermal barrier from repairing

properly, disassembling the dermal matrix, and causing an

inflammatory cascade. It has also been shown to be involved in

pigmentary changes, that are unrelated to melanin. We now know

that skin glycaon is not just about cross-linked collagen. In fact,

research is uncovering a new understanding of both the origin and

treatment opons for this condion.


Glycaon was first described over 100 years ago. It entails a series

of simple and complex non-enzymac reacons. Advanced

glycaon end (AGE) products form when proteins, lipids, or nucleic

acids are covalently bound by sugar molecules such as glucose or

fructose, resulng in the inhibion of normal funcon of the

target molecules. Once glycated, these proteins are rendered

dysfunconal and undergo further structural rearrangements to

form dangerous advanced glycaon end products (AGEs) that

accumulate in the brain, kidney, arteries

and skin as we get older. This is evident in diabecs, whose

systemic complicaons are ed to abnormal AGE levels. This is

quite different from the normal process of glycosylaon, which

occurs as a normal part of skin funconing. Glycosylaon is an

enzyme-mediated ATP-dependent aachment of sugars to a

protein or lipid.

The RAGE receptor is a toll-like receptor, which is a key mediator

in the body’s response to bacteria or viruses, for example. The

AGEs glycated proteins, lipids or even nucleic acids form a group

of paerned ligands that can interact with RAGEs and iniate

cellular signaling programs that include acvaon of NF-ĸB, a

major inflammatory agent suspected in ageing. Unlike binding

directly to a long-lived protein such as collagen or elasn, these

soluble AGEs act as ligands on RAGEs and smulate the

inflammatory process. RAGEs can sustain cellular acvaon and

convert short-lasng pro-inflammatory responses into long-lasng

cellular dysfuncon.


The most prevalent AGE in the human body, including the skin, is

carboxymethyl-lysine (CML), which is formed by oxidave

degeneraon of Amadori products or by direct addion of glyoxal

to lysine. In the skin, CML is found in the normal epidermis, aged

and diabec dermis, and photoageing-acnic elastosis. Other

AGEs detected in skin include pentosidine, glyoxal, methylglyoxal,

glucosepane, fructoselysine, carboxyethyl-lysine, glyoxal-lysine

dimer, and methylglyoxal-lysine dimer. When excess sugar, such as

fructose or glucose, floats around the bloodstream, it has a

propensity for binding to funconal proteins through a chemical

process called glycaon.

APJ 28

Newer research has shown that glycaon not only affects collagen

and elasn, but also plays a role in the formaon of pigment. In a

study by Lee et al (2016) it was shown for the first me the

existence of receptors for AGE (RAGE) were located in

melanocytes. These receptors are called receptor-advanced

glycaon end products (RAGE).

The presence of advanced glycaon end products (AGEs) has been

shown to acvate these receptors, with a subsequent increase in

tyrosinase and MITF expression. Tyrosinase is the enzyme

responsible for the second step in pigmentaon producon. MITF

is the master regulator for three primary enzymes responsible for


Glycaon could also be responsible for the pigment associated

with photoageing as well, with studies showing increased

secreon of AGEs from keranocytes following UV irradiaon.

High levels of AGEs likewise may impair dermal regeneraon,

reducing collagen solubility due to intermolecular crosslinking and

matrix metalloproteinase resistance. However, aside from the

known contribuon of AGEs to the wrinkling of ageing skin, the

interrelaonship of AGEs and melanocytes has not been

adequately studied.


In the study by Lee et al (2016), the expression of melanogenesis

from RAGE was invesgated. Before performing experiments on

the effect of AGEs on melanogenesis they invesgated whether

melanocytes express RAGE, the known receptor for AGEs.

In the study, a commercially available mixture of

Nε-(carboxymethyl)-lysine, pentosidine, and others was used

for seeing the effects of AGEs on melanogenesis in ex vivo skin

organ culture and in vitro melanocyte culture. Incubaon with

AGEs at the concentraon of 200 μg/ml showed no detrimental

effect on cell viability and did not show any increase in ROS and

proinflammatory cytokines such as IL-6 and TNF-α. In addion,

AGEs appeared to have no direct stress effect on melanocytes

when phosphorylated p38 expression was checked. However,

AGEs did heighten melanin producon, tyrosinase acvity, and the

expression of melanogenesis-associated molecules including MITF

and tyrosinase. Addionally, secons of cultured human skin (by

Fontana-Masson stain) showed proporonately higher melanin

pigmentaon aer AGEs exposure, based on raos of pigmented

epidermal areas to total epidermal areas.


During the study AGE-mediated melanogenesis was explored in ex

vivo experiments using human skin. AGEs (200 μg/ml) were

delivered twice (day 1 and 3) over a period of five days to an organ

culture system which ulised remnants of breast skin from plasc


As a result, increased melanin content was demonstrated (via

Fontana-Masson staining) in skin cultures five days aer AGE

exposure. In AGE-exposed human skin (vs. non-exposed controls),

the rao of pigmented epidermal area to total epidermal areas was

significantly greater. However, there was no difference in the

APJ 29

number of epidermal melanocytes between both control and

AGEs-delivered ssues. Taken together, these results indicate that

AGEs have a smulatory effect on pigmentaon without

increasing number of epidermal melanocytes.

As cells were exposed to AGEs, expression levels of

microphthalmia-associated transcripon factor (MITF) and

tyrosinase, the melanogenesis-associated molecules, were

increased. In addion, tyrosinase enzymac acvity rose

significantly upon incubaon with AGEs, along with a significant

increase in melanin content (~17%) compared to control cells. To

see the effect of long incubaon of AGEs on melanogenesis, we

treated AGEs on melanin cells for two weeks. Two weekincubaon

of AGEs augmented more melanin contents (~23.9%) in

comparison to four day-incubaon.

Lee et al (2016) also invesgated the contribuon of AGEs-RAGE

to pigmentaon as an alternate mechanism of pigmentaon

signaling other than MC1R-mediated pathway and further sought

to observe the implicaon of AGEs-RAGE pathway in UV-induced

pigmentaon. Through their experiments, they were able to

idenfy the expression of RAGE in melanocytes and the role of

AGEs in melanogenesis. Consequently, increased secreon and

producon of AGEs were observed from keranocytes following

UV irradiaon. These two end products have been found to

interfere with biochemical substances and reacons, one in

parcular, with DNA. Both glyoxal and methylglyoxal damage

DNA in intact cells; glyoxal is able to produce DNA strand breaks,

while methylglyoxal is responsible for DNA protein cross-linking

that results in nuclear condensaon and the inacvaon of some

secons of DNA.


One of the most under-acknowledged methods of managing

glycaon is food and the way it is cooked. Studies have shown

that consumpon of AGEs is not only ed to the sugar content of

food, but is also affected by the method of cooking. A host of

dietary compounds have surfaced as potenal therapeuc

candidates in the inhibion of AGE-mediated changes.

70 years ago, it was discovered that there was a correlaon

between the level of sugar in the blood and the skin, and that a

diet high in sugar led to a subsequent decline in both skin and

blood. The process of heang and cooking food is now also

understood to result in the development of advanced glycaon

end products. These preformed AGEs have a 30% efficacy of

being absorbed by the gut and entering the circulaon, where they

induce protein cross-linking, inflammaon, and intracellular

oxidave stress.

Grilling, frying, deep fat frying, and roasng methods are all

known to produce higher levels of AGEs in food. In contrast,

methods of preparaon that are water-based, such as boiling and

steaming, produce a logarithmically lower number of AGEs.

Water-based cooking methods are the primary method of cooking

for Asians. A diet low in AGEs correlated with a reducon in

inflammatory biomarkers (i.e., tumor necrosis factor-alpha,

interleukin-6, and C-reacve protein) in diabec human paents,

as well as an improvement in wound healing and other diabetesassociated

sequelae in mice.


Several herbs and spices have been shown to be capable of

inhibing the producon of AGEs. These include cinnamon,

cloves, oregano, and allspice. Other dietary compounds that have

been linked to inhibion of AGE formaon based on in vitro data

and preliminary animal models include ginger, garlic, α-lipoic acid,

carnine, taurine, carnosine, flavonoids (e.g., green tea catechins),

benfoamine (lab made thiamine), α-tocopherol, niacinamide,

pyridoxal, sodium selenite, selenium yeast, riboflavin, zinc and

manganese. The cosmeceucal industry has taken noce of this

data and several have recently released topical products

containing carnosine and α-lipoic acid, with claims related to an-

AGE formaon.

In one of the few human studies successfully conducted on

anAGE therapeucs, L-carnine supplementaon for six months

in hemodialysis paents significantly decreased levels of AGEs in

the skin. L-carnine, which is naturally abundant in meat, poultry,

fish, and dairy products, is an anoxidant. Furthermore, it may

funcon synergiscally to neutralise oxidave stress when given

with α-lipoic acid.


A variety of cutaneous cells including fibroblasts, keranocytes

and melanosomes produce AGEs. Advanced glycaon end

products that are released from these cells affect fibronecn,

laminin, collagen, elasn and melanin producon. The AGEs seen

in the skin that are responsible take the form of N6-

(carboxymethyl)-lysine (CML), pyrraline, pentosidine, or other

molecules as consequences of ageing and acnic damage.

The dermis, which provides strength and resiliency to skin,

consists primarily of an extracellular matrix that has a high

quanty of the protein collagen, parcularly types I and III. Due to

its slow turnover rate and exposure to elevated glucose levels

outside of cells, collagen falls vicm to glycaon and AGE

formaon. Proteins in the dermal matrix and cytoskeleton are

parcularly suscepble to glycaon, resulng in ssue sffening

and reduced elascity.

The result is extensive cross-linking of collagen molecules, turning

them from tough and flexible to brile and sff. This decreases

the skin’s elascity and sets the stage for the development of

wrinkles and sagging skin. Glycaon has been shown to prevent

the binding of collagen type 1 to keranocytes and reduces the

migratory ability of keranocytes in the epidermis. This has an

impact on wound healing and can present clinically as skin ulcers

and delayed skin healing. This process of uncontrolled glycaon

also reduces the cell’s ability to generate nitric oxide from L-

arginine, which is required for proper cross-linking of collagen

fibers, and inacvates proteins responsible for collagen and elasn

repair. Clinically, this results in lower skin tensile strength, as seen

in the aged skin of older individuals.

Glycaon also has been connected to the accelerated ageing of

keranocytes. For instance, placing keranocytes in ssue culture

with a soluon of glucose at 100 mM, or glyoxal at 0. 1 mM, will

change the biological characterisc of the cells in three days from

young keranocytes to old, late-passage keranocytes that show

signs of slowing down, nearing death and unable to divide. This is

significant because it indicates that a poor diet, high in sugars, can

markedly speed up the ageing process. These are but a few of the

adverse effects of glycaon on skin.

Once the skins collagen is glycated it is highly resistant to repair

mechanisms, which allows it to accumulate and impair the

structural integrity of the dermis. It has been shown to cause the

collapse of specialised cells known as fibroblasts that produce and

organise collagen fibers. This strongly influences collagen

homeostasis and subsequently leads to less collagen producon

and more breakdown in the skin. To make maers worse,

ultraviolet (UV) exposure and AGE formaon itself generate free

radicals that further exacerbate this problem by increasing acvity

of the collagen-degrading enzyme matrix metalloproteinase-1



Advanced Glycaon End Products have also been shown to

influence wound healing. In the presence of AGEs keranocytes

lose their migratory and proliferave abilies. Paents who have

type 2 diabetes have been shown to have impaired stratum

corneum hydraon and barrier disfuncon. With a decrease in

APJ 30

epidermal lipids and ceramides being produced, as well as

decreased anmicrobial pepdes. Advanced Glycaon End

products play a role in this barrier dysfuncon. Increased blood

glucose levels lead to serum increases of AGEs and Epidermal

RAGE. This leads to a decreased in keranocyte proliferaon,

weakened stratum corneum integrity, delayed barrier recovery,

decreased epidermal lipid synthesis, decreased lamellar body

synthesis, decreased stratum corneum lipids and anmicrobial

pepdes (hBD 2 and 3 and LL-37). The result being a skin barrier

that is not funconing adequately with reduced ability to defend

off microbes, leaving it vulnerable for bacterial or microbial


AGEs markedly increase in diabetes, due to a higher glycolyc

rate, and sele on the elasc network. They arise from dicarbonyl

precursors, among which methylglyoxal can be found. Among the

other markers studied for their sensivity to glycaon, it was

shown that fibrillin-1, a glycoprotein associated with oxytalan

fibres is highly sensive to glycaon.

In a study by Gasser et al (2011) it was highlighted that fibrillin-1 is

the parameter most sensive to glycaon, and that its alteraon is

inversely correlated to the apparion of carboxymethyl)-lysine

(CML) and pentosidine.

It was determined that glycaon can be induced in just a few days

by methylglyoxal (a reference glycant agent). Aminoguanidine

hydrochloride, the reference inhibitor of glycaon was added in

the culture medium and its efficacy regarding methylglyoxalinduced

glycaon was assessed. Once this model was validated,

the efficacy of topically applied formulas containing

aminoguanidine HCl or other potenal an- ingredients against

methylglyoxal-induced glycaon were able to be studied.


When we had limited understanding of what caused glycaon, it

was difficult to know how to treat it. However, on-going studies

are revealing the benefits of certain cosmec acves that can

support and treat glycaon. Here are just a few.

Olive Leaf Extract

Olive leaf extracts have a unique composion, with the leaves

containing a high number of anoxidants, esters and flavonoids.

Among the major phenolic components (luteolin, hydroxytyrosol,

and oleuropein), luteolin and luteolin-40-O-b-D-glucopyranoside

were assigned as potent inhibitors of AGE formaon.

It cannot be stressed highly enough that the extracon procedure

greatly affects the composion and therefore the an-glycaon

potenal of olive leaves. In a study they invesgated the in vitro

an-glycaon profile of both an aqueous as well as methanol olive

leaf extracts. The chemical composion was determined using

liquid chromatography-UV-Vis.

The methanolic olive leaf extract inhibited fluorescent AGE

formaon in BSA-ribose system, whereas the aqueous extract had

no effect in both BSA-fructose and BSA-ribose systems.

The results demonstrate that the methanolic olive leaf extract

inhibited fluorescent AGE formaon in BSA-ribose system,

whereas the normal extracon had no effect. The inhibitory

potenal on AGE formaon is aributed to the presence of

luteolin and luteolin-40 -O-b-D-glucopyranoside in high


Blueberry Extract

Blueberries have long been known for remarkable aninflammatory

and free-radical fighng properes, which can be

credited to their wealth of phenolic compounds known as

anthocyanins. By combang free radicals and reducing the release

of proinflammatory cytokines, blueberries can safely break the

self-perpetuang cycle of AGEs and oxidave stress that underlies

intrinsic skin ageing.

When researchers tested the an-glycaon acvity of various

fruits, blueberries ranked one of the highest. In addion,

blueberries protect against collagen breakdown by inhibing

matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) as a response to UV light.

In human studies, blueberry extracts have been shown to improve

the undesirable skin changes that accompany ageing. In a study of

20 diabec females older than 55 years with elevated skin AGEs, a

topical preparaon containing blueberry extract significantly

improved skin tone and smoothness, fine lines, crepiness and

firmness aer 12 weeks with excellent tolerability. Although no

changes in skin AGEs was observed, researchers believe that a

study with a longer duraon might have produced a different


In another clinical trial, six weeks of supplementaon with an oral

mixture containing blueberry extract in 62 women aged 45-73

significantly increased skin elascity by 9% over a placebo, and

aer 12 weeks significantly decreased skin roughness by 6%

compared to the control group.

Mangosteen Extract

Mangosteen (Garcinia mangostana ) fruit has a unique sweet-sour

taste and is rich in beneficial compounds such as xanthones.

Xanthone is one of the compound classes that are prevalent in

mangosteen. So far, there are more than 68 xanthones isolated

from the mangosteen fruit with the majority of them being c-


These xanthones were also implicated in various pharmaceucal

properes but more studies are needed to verify their

effecveness in human applicaons. Using High Pressure Liquid

Chromatography (HPLC), Muchtaridi et al. (2017) measured the

level of a-mangosn, c-mangosn,and gartanin from different

regions of Indonesia which suggest their levels can be dependent

upon localies. This is interesng as xanthones may be extracted

differently in different laboratories around the world, given that

published manuscripts related to mangosteen and xanthone

extracon have originated from not just South-East Asian

countries, but also from United States, Japan, China, and United


In a study examining the efficacy of mangostana in prevenng and

inhibing advanced glycaon end products. G. mangostana was

evaluated for its inhibitory effects against two monosaccharidemediated

protein glycaon reacons and oxidave damage of

BSA. G. mangostana markedly inhibited protein glycaon and

oxidave damage in BSA induced by glucose and ribose. The

isolated bioacve compounds that belong to the flavonoid and

benzophenone classes of compounds decreased the formaon of

fluorescent, non-fluorescent AGEs and fructosamine associated

with the reducon of protein aggregaon and protein carbonyl

content. They also prevented the loss of protein thiol groups. An-

AGEs formaon acvity could be due to inhibion of radical chain

reacons by their radical scavenging acvity. Given the ability of

G. mangostana to inhibit glycaon reacons with

monosaccharides, we conclude that the use of GMT will prevent

accumulaon of AGEs.


Glycaon plays a role in many skin condions. To effecvely

manage these, an-glycaon acves may need to be considered in

the formulaon of these products. The treatment of pigmentaon

has been shown to be influenced by advanced glycaon end

products, and yet many products on the market do not have

acves that have an-glycaon properes. Slow healing wounds

may also be in part to the acvity of glycated end products in the

skin. To successfully treat skin condions including pigmentaon,

ageing and slow healing wounds, an-glycaon acves will

become a crucial part of managing these condions. APJ

APJ 31






Professor Terry Everi

SKIN IS SKIN SOME SAY, and of course, they are correct. In terms

of male and female skin, it is said that there are considerable

differences, primarily resulng from genec and difference in the

metabolism of sex hormones and response to them.

Men's and women's skins differ in hormone metabolism, hair

growth, sweat rate, sebum producon, surface pH, fat

accumulaon, among other differences (Giacomoni et al., 2009).

seen in photo-aged females. This does change in later years, where

males photodamage may become more pronounced.

As a generalisaon, Rahrovan et al. (2018) found sex-related

differences in anatomy, physiology, epidemiology and several

disease manifestaons. Concerning skin disorders, infecous

diseases are presented more in men, but psychosomac problems,

pigmentary disorders, certain hair diseases, and autoimmune and

allergic diseases are more common in women.

However, even with these consideraons, not all skin of the same

gender is the same and this is one of the primary challenges that

all skin professionals need to consider.


Male skin is indeed thicker than female skin, partly due to the

presence of course and pigmented terminal hair over much of the

body and, in parcular, the face, contrasng with the fine and

colourless vellus hair of females (Sandby-Moller, Poulsen, & Wulf,


Bailey et al. (2012) found that men had an overall 10-20% thicker

skin than women, with Firooz et al. (2017) showing similar results

and idenfied that epidermal thickness thins with age on some

body sites, such as cheek, palm and dorsum of the foot remains

constant on other areas, such as neck and sole. This variaon is

not accounted for by sun or environmental or hormonal status

among groups (p. 18).

Thicker skin resists some UVA damages, but different genders of

the same age do not exhibit the pronounced redundant facial skin

Skin thickness (ųm) Bailey et al. 2012)


The dermis contains water, ground substance and elasc fibres

contribung to its thickness. Men's skin is thicker at all ages, yet

the extent of the difference varies with the anatomical region. On

the forearm, it has been reported to be of the order of 20%

(Shuster, Black & McVie, 1975).

Aer menopause, women's skin is 10% thinner than before

menopause. Skin thickness decreases in men and women, starng

at the age of 45. Other authors report that skin thickness

decreases linearly with age in men beginning at the age of 20,

whereas it seems to remain constant in women unl the age of 50

or so, and then starts decreasing (Luebberding et al., 2013). These

changes might affect the elascity, defined as the proporonality

factor between the intensity of the stress applied to the skin and

its strain.

APJ 32

Topical oestrogen applicaon is reported to increase skin

thickness by nearly 10% compared with less than 5% for the

placebo group. The observaon supports that ovariectomy is

associated with thinning of the skin, whereas oestrogen therapy

thickens skin (Alexander & Cook, 2006).

Loss of collagen has been associated with the occurrence of skin

thinning post-menopause. Two separate studies demonstrated

that collagen content increased 34-48% following hormone

treatment than non-treated subjects (Brincat, Moniz & Studdi,



The pH of the skin has been measured at mulple different sites in

men and women with varying results regarding gender differences,

so studies are conflicng on this parameter, with most appearing

to find males skin with lower acidity measures however by how

much varies greatly (Kim et al. 2006; Luebberding et al.2013).

Studies show significant difference yet not changing by much,

such as 6.40 male versus female 6.10 (Fox et al.,1998); 5.80 male

versus female 5.54 (Ehlers et al.,2001).

Overall, women had higher pH values than men. The pH of men

was significantly lower than that of women and generally

increased with age, whereas women's pH generally decreased with

age (Luebberding et al., 2013; Youn et al., 2013).

This minor yet relevant difference is thought to result from the

increased Free Fay Acids from the sebaceous gland lipases. The

eccrine gland derived lacc acid, increasing the acidificaon

of the skin's pH. Yet, there remains no consensus on how age and

gender affect skin surface pH.


In general, and regardless of age, men showed significantly lower

TEWL than women unl around 40. In most sites, water loss was

stable or increased over subjects' lifeme in both sexes. However,

the difference in evaporimetry results in male skin progressively

dehydrates with age at all localisaons except for the forearm

(Luebberding et al., 2013, p. 483).


Men have been reported to have higher sebum producon and

larger pore size. Since 1974, it has been known that Caucasian

men have been reported to have an average of 3 mg of sebum per

square cenmetre of the skin surface as opposed to Caucasian

women having 0.7 mg/cm2 (Pochi & Strauss, 1974).

More recent studies found higher sebum levels in male subjects in

different parts of the face, except for the forehead, where female

subjects had higher sebum levels, yet progressively decreased in

women over their lifeme (Man et al., 2009; Bailey et al., 2012;

Luebberding et al., 2013).

We know that the skin's sebum content is mainly influenced by

androgens, such as testosterone and dehydroepiandrosterone. In

contrast, oestrogens exert the opposite effect through the

downregulaon of sebaceous gland funcon.

For this reason, acne is typically more severe and longer lasng in

males than in females, with a preference for the face, chest and

back. Since testosterone is present throughout life in men, sebum

producon also remains high. This sebum producon

provides skin moisturisaon resulng in fewer wrinkles in males

unl much later years.

Age affects sebum secreon differently at different anatomical

sites in males and females, but data indicate higher sebum content

in males than females.

APJ 33


Studies from Iran, India and Australia have demonstrated women

have lighter skin, yet in general, both sexes darken with increasing

age. (Mehrai, & Sunderland, 1990; Banerjee, 1984; Green, &

Marn 1990).

Differences in melanin, haemoglobin, carotene, hormonal

influence, and environmental sun exposure may all be involved.

No gender-linked difference has been reported for melanocyte


Men appear to undergo a more facultave pigmentaon aer sun

exposure. Addionally, it seems they have a longer me with it

before dispersal. Facial hair of males provides more of a

complexion darkening, along with increased upper recular dermal

vascularisaon. Radiance and glow are the consequence of surface

homogeneity and can be improved by mild exfoliaon.


Men have greater sweat rates than women, which is true across all

age ranges and stages of sexual maturity (Gagnon, Crandall, &

Kenny, 2013).

Mean body temperature increased, men exhibited more significant

sweat and sweat gland output than women, while the number of

acve sweat glands was similar (Green et al., 2000).

Results suggest that sex differences in sweang result from lower

maximum sweang capacity of female sweat glands and not a

difference in cholinergic sensivity of the sweat gland.


The difference in skin blood flow between men and women is

hormone-dependent, while both genders have the same capillary

structure and volumes. Females have a thinner epidermis than

men; this difference may be responsible for the vascular

structures' visual appearance.

We do know that for women, the phase of the menstrual cycle

varies the blood flow considerably.

Basal blood flow was lowest in the luteal phase and highest in the

preovulatory stage. Compared to the other phases of the

menstrual cycle, it is demonstrated that finger skin perfusion had

the greatest cold-induced constricon during the luteal phase and

the most negligible recovery following (Bartelink, Ollersheim,

Theeuwes, 1990).

One elegant study via laser Doppler imagery following

iontophoresis of acetylcholine (an endothelium-dependent

vasodilator) showed that premenopausal women had more

significant response acetylcholine than postmenopausal women,

reflecng a change in skin vasculature with ageing (Algotsson,

Nordberg, & Winblad, 1995).


Similar results are generally reported for some parameters, such as

sebum being higher in males - influenced by sex hormones. It is

found that skin thickness and pigmentaon are higher in males,

yet not much difference in skin electricity.

Other parameters provide confusing and conflicng results, which

may be more the differences in measuring devices and sites, study

design or genec contribuons.

One major problem with interpreng the findings in studies of

gendered skin differences is that there is no systemac approach

to determining gendered skin's pathophysiology. Study design and

size, instrumentaon, vivo or invitro, hormonal factors - all change

the interindividual and intraindividual variability, making it difficult

to come to a defining conclusion.

Notwithstanding, the difficulty in understanding gender-linked

differences in skin physiology can help improve cosmec

treatments for specific gendered an-ageing care via prevenon,

repair and protecon, and achieve skin smoothness, clarity and

overall health.

Line-field confocal opcal coherence tomography (LC-OCT) is a

non-invasive opcal technique recently developed for skin

examinaon in vivo. It provides real-me, high-resoluon vercal

images with an isotropic resoluon of ~1 µm and a penetraon

depth of ~500 µm Line-held confocal opcal coherence

tomography (LC-OCT) is a non-invasive opcal technique recently

developed for skin examinaon in vivo. It provides real-me, highresoluon

vercal images with an isotropic resoluon of ~1 µm

and a penetraon depth of ~500 µm.

While most of the references cited are, in the primary, original

papers that reported the finding, we know so well that more

recent findings are 'fine-tuning' details, and much more is to come

with more advanced technology.


For a list of references, please contact the editor.

APJ 34








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APJ 35



resilience for survival

Tina Viney


introduced to the heart-warming story of the Von Trapp Family,

one of the world’s best-known concert groups in the era

immediately preceding World War II through the incredible movie

known as The Sound of Music. While inially doubul as to how

well it would be received, it became the number one movie at the

box office and within a year and a half, it had replaced Gone With

The Wind as the highest-grossing film of all me. It was also the

first to earn more than $100 million at the box office.

One of the movie’s highlights was the beauful song Edelweiss.

This amazing flower with its resilience and determinaon to

survive during perilous mes, was the perfect symbol of the

struggles the Von Trapp family endured as they were challenged

and refused to betray their Austrian heritage and submit to the

invasion of Nazi Germany and the dictatorship of Hitler and the

Third Reich.

Considered the queen of alpine flora, the Edelweiss, which grows

high in the Alps is also regarded in Switzerland at the naonal

symbol. Through the decades, this humble lile flower has

fascinated poets, songwriters, and sciensts about its incredible

power to overcome adversity and its unique combinaon of

chemical compounds. Celebrated as an icon of courage and

bravery, its beauty and strength have fuelled a living legend that

says that men who needed to show their love had to venture into

the treacherous high peaks to find an edelweiss flower to take to

their beloved.


The edelweiss is a species that belongs to the Asteraceae family

and its botanical name is Leontopodium alpinum. Its apparent

fragility hides an incredible resilient flower, which is able to

survive at heights of more than 3000 metres and withstand the

extreme temperatures of alpine mountains. It only grows naturally

at heights over 1500 metres on limestone walls and slopes, or on

rocks on terrains that are considered the most barren and hosle

in the world subjected to extremely cold weather and ferocious

winds, while also scorching hot summers with lile protecon, as a

result of the high altudes and lack of nearby vegetaon.

The edelweiss grows up to 30cm tall and has thick and fleshy

bracts, covered with a fine fluff. It is white in colour with greenish

or yellowish tones. It hides under the appearance of a single

flower (between 1.5-10cm in size), but in reality, it consists of a set

of ny flowers that have evolved and grow as a group to survive.

The central yellow elements are capitula, where both male and

female flowers are grouped; and what appears to be white flowers

are bracts structures that protect it during its development. A

vegetable fibre protects it from frost and ultraviolet radiaons.

The edelweiss blossoms between July and September and its

leaves can be white, grey or slightly yellow. It originates from the

area of the Austrian and Swiss Alps, and is nave to the European

mountain regions, however, its habitat extends from the

Carpathians to the Pyrenees, but it can also be found in some very

high mountain rangers in Asia, such as the Himalayas.


The edelweiss aerial parts contain leontopodic acid, typical of

edelweiss and one of its most abundant components (Schwaiger,

S. et al, 2005), and a large amount of chlorogenic acid. It has

flavonoids (luteolin and its derivaves, traces of apigenin and its

glucoside derivaves), tannins, phenolic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic

acid, terpenes, bisabolene derivaves, phenylpropanoids and

sitosterol (Dweck, A.C., 2004: Schwaiger, S.et la, 2006).


Edelweiss is mostly used in cosmecs, due to its mulple benefits

from its chemical constuents. Their unique composion assists

the skin to slow down the effects of ageing. It has anoxidant,

an-inflammatory, relaxing and purifying properes, and can

protect the skin from solar radiaon (it absorbs UV rays).

In essence the edelweiss offers three key skin benefits. These are

– anoxidant, an-inflammatory and an-bacterial acvies.

APJ 36

Here are further details:

Anoxidant acvity: The anoxidant acvity of edelweiss and its

components has been confirmed in several studies. Leontopodic

acid is a novel highly substuted glucaric acid derivave from

edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum Cass.) and its anoxidave and

DNA protecng properes. The word leontopodium comes from

the Greek leon lion + podion, meaning lion’s paws (from the shape

of the flowers).

Leontopodic acid is well studied confirming its anoxidant

properes. Especially the aerial part of the edelweiss which has in

vitro protecve effects against induced oxidave reacons. The

results from a study by Costa, S. et al (2009) showed that this

compound protects cells against the consequences of exposure to

toxic agents, with an anoxidant effect. However, there are

numerous other studies that also support this.

Other studies also confirmed the anoxidant effecveness of

chlorogenic acid, a compound present in the flower. Bouayed, J.

et al (2007) verified that in vitro, this acid protected granulocytes

from induced oxidave stress. In 2009, A.R. et al also observed

the anoxidant capacity of a phenolic factor containing

chlorogenic acid, protects the DNA from in vivo induced oxidave


An-inflammatory acvity: In tradional medicine, edelweiss has

been used as an an-inflammatory for years, and for this reason in

2004 Dobner, M.J. et al wanted to verify its an-inflammatory

acvity. In his study, the an-oedema of the aerial parts of the

plant were analysed when applied topically on an induced

dermas. Results showed an important reducon of oedema,

which confirmed the an-inflammatory acvity of edelweiss and

its components. Further studies also came to the same


Anbacterial acvity: The anbacterial and purifying acvity of

edelweiss and its components was analysed by Dobneer, M.J. et al

(2003). The results showed inhibitory concentraons against

various Staphylococcus aureus, Enterococcus faecium, Escherichia

coli, Pseudomanas aeruginosa, Streptococcus pneumoniae and

Streptococcus pyogenes. Therefore, Edelweiss is very useful to

cosmec formulaons for its purifying and anbacterial acvies.


The analysed parameters through various studies clearly show that

leontopodic acid directly reduces the producon of reacve

oxygen species, increased cell viability and intensifies the acon of

glutathione peroxidase, an enzyme that helps reduce the

concentraon of ROS. In consequence it is confirmed that

edelweiss, due to its significant leontopodic acid content, is highly

useful for cosmec products for its anoxidant and an-ageing

acvies, both for face and body. It is also suitable for photoprotecve






Leontopodic acid

Chlorogenic acid




Protecve of hair colouraon

An-inflammatory Extract An-Oedema

Soothing and calming

An-bacterial Extract Purifying


APJ 37








DURING COLD WINTER MONTHS the skin oen suffers from

dehydraon, not to menon skin irritaon from the frequent use

of facial masks that we are required to wear. So Roccoco have

come to the rescue with the launched of their ROCCOCO JELLY

MASKS in three amazing variees that will deliver instant

hydraon boost.

ROCCOCO JELL MASKS are infused with berries, cherries, and

fresh herbs such as chamomile and calendula. The jells also

contain real petals and seeds for a stunning visual display, while

delivering instant and intense hydraon and an incredible and

memorable sensorial experience that your clients will absolutely



Rich in vitamins, essenal fay acids, and anoxidants, Roccoco’s

advanced translucent jelly masks also combine sucrose and

alginates to provide incredible hydrang results that will last for

days. Forming a vacuum on the skin through a thin but strong

transparent film the masks enhance the delivery of serums into

the skin, sealing in the acves and increasing the hydraon levels

of the epidermis. Sucrose not only enhances hydraon levels it

also delivers instant soness leaving the skin feeling and looking


Rich in sugar molecules and containing the strongest superior

jelling alginate available, these masks are applied super thinly, yet

have the strongest hold for a jelly mask, being able to be removed

in one single piece - no more messy and uncomfortable mask

removal experience.

Jelly Masks are also suitable to be applied over the eyes and

mouth if required, especially if the eye area needs brightening or

the lips are dry. These transparent jelly masks will increase

hydraon of the skin by a massive 140%, both instantly and for

days aer the treatment. As moisture is bound into the skin, it will

also increase skin elascity minimising the appearance of lines and

wrinkles and leaving the skin refreshed and revitalised.

Roccoco Jelly Masks only required to be applied super thinly with

just 50 grams of powder needed compared to the standard 75

grams for other alginate jelly masks to get the same result, making

them fantasc value for money.

Available in 3 opons:

1. Calendula

2. Forest Fruits

3. Acerola Cherry

Calendula Mask also contains Chamomile and Cornflower

providing soothing and an-inflammatory benefits for sensive

and inflamed skins and is also suitable for rosacea and inflamed

acne skin condions. This mask will soothe and reduce redness,

refining pores, while scars will appear less visible.

Forest Fruits Mask is rich in vitamins, essenal fay acids, and

anoxidants. It contains raspberry, cranberry, and strawberry

(with visible strawberry seeds). This ultra-hydrang mask

alleviates dull and red complexions. Cranberries naturally rich in

salicylic acid, detoxifies the skin and smooth irregularies of the

skin. This mask is perfect for skins exposed to highly polluted

areas, due to its detoxificaon properes.

Acerola Cherry Jelly Mask is rich in acerola pulp, a nave fruit to

South America. Renowned as one of the richest sources of

vitamin C as well as high in carotenoids - a vitamin A, precursor.

The mask is also rich in bioflavonoids, niacin and anoxidants that

will revitalise dull and aged skin and brightens the complexion,

while lightening the appearance of pigmentaon.

The ROCCOCO JELL MASKS contain over 30 different acve

compounds in herbs, including caffeic acid, chlorogenic acid and

run. They do not contain any phthalates or parabens. These

vegan jelly masks are the perfect finish to any skin treatment. APJ

For these and other leading ROCCOCO BOTANICAL SKINCARE

contact 07 3807 1429 www.roccoco.com

APJ 38



APJ 39




Trish Hammond

ISN’T IT INCREDIBLE how much social media has influenced our

lives? It’s also incredible how this crazy pandemic has influenced

our lives. It has certainly made it clear that nobody is immune to

this huge aack that has affected many industries, including

aesthec businesses with the constant change and an almost

insecure future. It seems that we are constantly in transion from

one crisis to another.

I am sing here thinking to myself on how we can keep the lines

of communicaon open with our clients, our friends, and the

things that maer to us, especially while we are locked up and

unsure as to how long it will be, or if it will ever be any different.



It doesn’t get any easier when we get locked down. The

uncertainty and unsurety can be emoonally draining and can

leave you in a state of “what the heck do we do now?”

We recently posted on social media what I think is the best quote,

and it keeps coming to my mind with a tune to a song… “I GET



So, what can we do? How can we keep in touch? How do we

remain sensive to people's individual circumstances?

Well, there are a few ways you can use social media during a

pandemic. Always remember that people will forget what you did,

but they will never forget how you made them feel, and we all

know how we feel is so important now. Here are a few points to

help you along:

• Get involved in the conversaon as soon as it begins.

• Make sure you are following news updates and parcipang in

the communies engaged by those who are managing the

shared informaon.

• Use social media as an opportunity to promote your own

business or product. There will always be people who need

products and services during a crisis, and these people should

have access to it sooner rather than later.

• Time to think about the “How-To” videos, or the “At-Home”

packs. If you’re not already, maybe it’s a great opportunity to

start phone or zoom appointments.

Now’s the me to KEEP IN TOUCH! Social Media has an

unbelievable impact on people’s interacons, habits, and their

lifestyle. Never doubt the power and benefits of social media. In

these difficult mes there are many people who only have social

media as their mode of communicaon with the outside world,

while they are locked down or unable to do the things that make

their heart sing.


Social Media in business is really about connecng with exisng

and potenal clients. It’s about becoming an expert in your niche.

Here are three WHYs that will help you to leverage markeng

potenal in your business with social media:

• Helps Build Your Brand

• Reach your Target Audience

• Geng Conversions


What relevant informaon should you share with others? What's

the best medium for communicang with others? There are social

media channels that can help provide answers to quesons and

lend credibility to statements made elsewhere. Make sure you are

following the official social media accounts of the Australian Govt

related to COVID. Watch news, read arcles, follow pages, read

the tweets, and be responsible for sharing things based on facts. It

has become very important to stay up to date with the latest

updates from the world of healthcare, commerce, and educaon

because these are directly related to our own personal wellbeing

and security.


Make it easy for clients to work with you during a pandemic by

staying in touch using your social media. Keep it real. Keep it

personal. Authencity is key in these mes. If you are closed, is

the phone being answered by a person, not a voice message?

Keep an eye on what your clients are up to and stay up-to-date

with what they need, this is how you establish trust and credibility

with your clients.

Understanding how social media works during a pandemic can

also help you figure out what messages would be most effecve at

keeping them engaged. Aer all, social media has the power to

spread informaon fast and help keep everyone involved in the


Yes, social media during the pandemic can be tricky. Stay posive,

be aware of the risks, but keep in mind there are always

opportunies. APJ

If you need help managing your social media, or just need an audit

on how to get the most out of your social media, get in touch with

me today trish@thepinkroom.com.au

APJ 40






Skin Recovery System is fast gaining

popularity despite the current lockdowns.

The owner of the company, Graham

Stevens had a dream to introduce an

amazing skincare line with incredible

funconality and benefits and so

Hydromerse was borne. We spoke with

Graham recently about his new venture.





Our first product we created was the

Hydromerse Skin Recovery System. It is a

“sheet-free” hydrang and cooling skincare

mask that can be applied to any part of the

face or body. It won’t slip nor slide off as it

has a unique two-step applicaon method

- the Hydromerse gel which cools,

hydrates, soothes and refreshes the skin,

and the spray which acvates an outer

layer barrier and seals the hydrang gel in

place, exactly where you want it to be. We

designed Hydromerse to be flexible for

clinics to use and sell as a mask that can be

worn before, during, or aer an aesthec

procedure with the rest taken home by the

client for connued use between visits, or

as a stand-alone product for sale in the

clinic whenever someone wants a

hydraon boost.

The idea for Hydromerse was born aer I

had an in-clinic skin treatment that le my

face feeling very hot, dehydrated, and

uncomfortable. I looked for something to

apply and couldn’t find anything on the

market that would cool, soothe, while also hydrate my skin, and stay in place if I was sat

up or walking around. I wanted something I could use at home aer an aesthec

procedure that allowed me to connue in my daily tasks without slipping off my face.



Our Skin Recovery System can be applied in the clinic and by the client at home using a

silicone applicator. The benefit for both the clinician and client is that the gel mask stays

in place with our unique barrier technology. It hydrates, cools, and soothes the skin and

there is no sheet mask to throw away. It can be applied where it is needed most. The

spray seals in the gel mask meaning it doesn’t dry out on the skin and can be worn as

long as required. It is also oil free, silicone-free, colour-free, fragrance free, ethoxylate/

parabens and sulphate free so there is no potenal irritaon.



It is suitable for all skin types, those concerned with dry skin, fine lines, wrinkles, and

redness. It is also great as a hydrang mask for men as from experience sheet masks

don’t stay in place if you have a beard!


PRODUCT AUSTRALIAN-MADE? Hydromerse Skin Recovery contains Hyaluronic acid

(2%), Glycerine and Menthyl Lactate to cool and soothe the skin. It is proudly Licenced

Australian Made and Owned and Cruelty Free. It is also Vegan.


We are excited to announce that we are also launching six new Cosmeceucal skin care

products – for in clinic and home use. All these are made in Australia and cruelty free too.

Hydromerse Cosmeceucals are specially formulated using some of the most nourishing

and regenerave ingredients to help combat the ageing process, incorporang bio-acve

botanical extracts together with pepdes and potent nutrients to minimise the effects of

ageing. We also offer all salons and clinics that purchase Hydromerse, tailor-made social

media posts to co-promote their business for free. We strongly believe that working

together we can achieve more via partnering with clinics.


For further informaon on Hydromerse you can contact Graham Stevens 0478 032 628,

grahamstevens@hydromerse.com or our website is www.hydromerse.com

We are also acve on Instagram, Facebook @hydromerse and also have a page on


APJ 41


RadianiX® Sublingual Glutathione





CONDITIONS you most likely are

confronted with melasma and

pigmentaon – these are stubborn skin

condions that manifest due to hormonal

changes in the body or photo-ageing of

the skin caused by repeated exposure to

the sun's UV radiaon. UV radiaon

causes excessive producon of melanin,

wrinkles, and uneven skin tone.

While you may be addressing these

condions through various technologies

and techniques including laser, peels and

topicals, you can now also maximise your

treatment results through a

complementary, evidence-based internal

approach using glutathione, considered

one of the most effecve ways to support

skin health. So how does glutathione work

and why is it so important?


Glutathione (GSH) is known as the master

anoxidant. It works directly as a freeradical

scavenger. Another benefit of

glutathione is that it boosts the ulisaon

and the recycling of other anoxidants

such as vitamins C and E, alpha-lipoic acid

and CoQ10.

The primary purpose of glutathione is

protecon from the skin’s biggest threat - oxidaon. As an anoxidant, glutathione can

reduce skin damage from stresses such as sun exposure, before it creates pigmentaon

and dark spots.


When it comes to pigmentaon, glutathione can provide posive benefits. This is

because glutathione has proven an-melanogenic effects by smulang pheomelanin

synthesis rather than eumelanin synthesis, resulng in lighter skin pigmentaon. Most

arficial depigmentaon chemicals act by destroying melanocytes, whereas glutathione

protects the melanocytes via its anoxidant properes.

Studies have shown oral glutathione resulted in the lightening of skin colour. Interesngly,

subjects aged more than 40 years old experienced more pronounced skin brightening.

Usually, this age group suffered more photodamage from cumulave sun exposure.

Another study showed glutathione’s ability to improve wrinkles and increased skin

elascity (an-ageing effect).

Glutathione works by interrupng melanin synthesis switching from Eumelanin (dark) to

Pheomelanin (light) melanin, bringing skin back to its fairest tone.


Several studies also confirm that individuals with severe GSH Synthetase deficiency show

an increased suscepbility to bacterial infecons due to a lack of glutathione. The

producon of ROS during phagocytosis results in the death of neutrophils, CD4+ T cells,

being oxidave damage to the paents’ immunity.

Depleon of GSH also inhibits macrophage acvity. The lymphoid cells also depend on

opmal glutathione level. On the other hand, some immune cell funcons (T-cell

proliferaon, lymphokine-acvated killer cells and natural killer cells), are sensive to

glutathione depleon. Hence, the immune system may be sensive to a deficiency or

excessive glutathione. Glutathione supplementaon should be given daily in opmal

doses to replenish the intrinsic glutathione and maintain glutathione homeostasis.

APJ 42

Therefore, glutathione is also great news in supporng the body’s



In a healthy person, the intracellular level of glutathione is

between 1-to-2 mM, plasma level of 2 mM and brain level of 1–

3mM. For depleon levels of glutathione especially in older adult,

oral administraon may be used to boost levels. However,

effecve delivery of glutathione is oen a problem. This is

because the gastrointesnal tract is hosle to glutathione where

the intesnal enzymes hydrolyse the tripepde structure, while

undergoing first pass liver metabolism, resulng in an incredibly

low, oral glutathione bioavailability. While glutathione can be

administered via injecon, this can only be delivered by a medical

professional or prescribing nurse.

RadianiX® a technology known as WaferiX, a new advancement

where glutathione is delivered by sublingual wafer purposemade

to dissolve under the tongue in approximately 30 seconds

for rapid absorpon of glutathione into the blood circulaon.

The WaferiX technology improves bioavailability by bypassing

intesnal degradaon and the first pass metabolism. It penetrates

the mucosa via passive transport through the mucosa cells or

around the cells into the blood circulaon. Studies showed a rapid

sublingual absorpon, glutathione Tmax at 30 to 60 minutes aer

oral-mucosa administraon.

The introducon of nutrional supplements that support and

opmise skin health and wellbeing are one of the fastest growing

categories in salon and clinics. Today’s consumers are seeking a

stepped-up level of care that goes beyond basic skincare to also

boost overall energy levels and immunity. Glutathione is highly

supported through extensive evidence-based research studies

validang its anoxidant capabilies as a free-radical scavenger

that boosts the ulisaon and the recycling of other important

anoxidants such as vitamins C and E, alpha-lipoic acid and



If you are currently treang clients with pigmentaon, or for

improving overall skin health and ageing skin this is the perfect

complementary take-home treatment to further support their

result. Aracvely packaged for daily sublingual delivery,

RadianiX® has become a popular supplement due to its

efficacious delivery of glutathione and its incredible benefits. It is

easy to use as it simply dissolved under the tongue in

approximately 30 seconds.

RadianiX® is now available to salon and clinics. By introducing it

to your clients you will be offering an addional layer of support to

enhance your skin treatment results, as well as opmising your

clients’ overall wellbeing. APJ

If you would like to stock RadianiX® and for further

informaon and pricing, you can contact Enty


Chrissy Cunningham or Jeremy Dalton

03 9737 4333


APJ 43



What does it mean?

Dr Tiina Meder


are made up of a diverse range of ethnic groups. While most of

our clients are probably Caucasian, and indeed, our training in

most instances has predominantly consisted of working on

Caucasian skin types, but the need to understand how skins of

colour differ is an important consideraon, for the purpose of risks

and limitaons, especially when treang them.

In this arcle renowned dermatologist Dr Tiina Meder, discusses

some of the presented issues when working with skins that would

be classified as Type IV or V on the Fitzpatrick scale.

We must accept that all early research on cutaneous anatomy and

physiology were performed mostly on white populaon, so the

basis of many skincare formulaons has been focused on this

fundamental issue, but this is progressively changing. When we

are speaking about skincare roune or the choice of a moisturiser,

by default, we are using principles and ideas of the past, based on

this limited knowledge about the human skin.

Meanwhile, dark skin types have certain fundamental differences

to white skin and not just colour, there are other factors to

consider that must be carefully assessed, especially if we are

providing skincare services.

When it comes to makeup or colour cosmecs, the issue is a visual

one that will require that we colour match to ensure appropriate

product choice. However, when considering skincare needs the

consideraons are not so obvious. So, let’s take a closer look at

how coloured skin differs from white skin.

New research is elucidang similaries and differences in skin of

colour and white skin with regards to skin barrier, skin sensivity,

pigmentaon, regeneraon, and scarificaon and even in transepidermal

drug delivery.


When it comes to skin colour the number of pigmented cells or

melanocytes remain relavely constant in all types of skin. But

melanocytes in the darker skin are larger, more dispersed and

contain much more melanin, which is less easy to destroy

comparing with a Caucasian skin. Also, melanocytes in dark skin

are more sensive to all kind of smulaon and we also find that

tyrosinase - the enzyme responsible of pigment synthesis - is more

acve, so cells can easily produce addional new pigment when

smulated. Therefore, individuals with a Fitzpatrick phototype IV

and higher are more suscepble to post-inflammatory

pigmentaon (PIH) that can result from different aesthec

procedures, such as chemical peels to hair depilaon, etc. It is

important to note that skin irritaon, inflammaon, minor

mechanical traumasm, skin injury or the use of potenally

irritang cosmec products can easily lead to hyperpigmentaon

and uneven skin tone in darker skin types.

Addionally, pigment loss such as hypopigmentaon can occur, but

this is less frequent. In terms of risk consideraons, it is important

to note that clients with dry and sensive skin are at high risk of

reacons, and dark skin is predisposed to dryness more than


As a rule, dark skin is more fragile than white skin, this is contrary

APJ 44

to the prevailing opinion over many years by the cosmec industry

that believed that dark skin is more resilient, and that white skin

was more fragile. For example, trans epidermal water loss (TEWL)

is higher in the darker skin, the rate of desquamaon of cells in the

epidermis is lower, resulng oen in the dryness, high sensivity

and even xerosis, which increases with age.


All ingredients that have a potenal to cause significant irritaon

or dryness when applied to the skin can cause pigment alteraon

in dark skin and must be avoided. The most common topical agent

associated with this type of problem include benzoyl peroxide,

renoids, salicylic acid, and glycolic acid.

Another popular skin lightening agent, hydroquinone can also

irritate dark skin and even lead to the development of ochronosis

(a persistent blue-black pigmentaon) especially in prolonged use

by people with skin phototype higher than Fitzpatrick Type IV. The

same problem can occur with resorcinol, which is somemes

included in cosmec products.


The treatment of melasma and acne is always the challenge

because the choice of treatments, especially of peeling agent, is

limited. Superficial peels can be used for the treatment of skin

condions, but even medium-depth peels need to be used with

extreme cauon, and deep peels must not be used at all due to

the high risk of complicaons and side effects.

Some cosmec ingredients such as glycolic and salicylic acid at

very low strength may be used in daily skincare for the purpose of

preparing the skin for a chemical peel or for lightening the skin,

but this category of products must be recommended and

supervised by qualified and experienced praconers and clients

must be carefully assessed and observed during their use.


The huge problem for us is that the majority of the cosmec

industry uses products that have been formulated predominantly

for Caucasian skin. For example, have you ever seen any warnings

on products containing salicylic acid or renoids stang: “increase

the risk of hyperpigmentaon in case of the dark skin”? Even,

with products formulated for clinic use, these warning are oen

not menoned. This is something that needs to change because

the lack of appropriate warnings can be detrimental to a growing

community of people of colour and many are already suffering of

unexpected and completely avoidable side effects with the use of

certain cosmecs.

Potenally harmful ingredients for dark skin types can be seen in

all categories of products: cleansers, toners, serums and

concentrates, creams, and emulsions, exfoliants and masks and

even in makeup foundaons and primers, without any noces of

precauon. Addionally, they also apply to an-ageing skincare, as

well sun protecon products, but within this category, it is less

about harm and more about a wiser choose of product.

When treang skin condions please also take note of your

client’s ethnic background, as this may help you avoid potenal

complicaons. APJ

APJ 45




The first night cream for sleepless nights


impacts your energy levels, mood, and your

skin. Recent studies have established that

lack of sleep aacks skin health and its

appearance in several ways. One study

confirmed that even one sleepless night

can reduce the skin’s moisture levels, and

in 50% of cases it caused so much damage

to the protecve barrier that the skin

started to flake and itch. Lack of sleep

disrupts microcirculaon, dulls the

complexion, reduces elascity and expands

the pores making them more visible. Sleep

deprivaon affects the skin’s ability to

restore and protect itself. People who

sleep well are less suscepble to UV

damage, and their skin can recover from

injury much faster, for example, post laser

resurfacing, chemical peels and even


It would be great if everyone could get a

good sleep every night, but it’s not always

possible. New mothers and parents of

teenagers, students and pensioners,

millionaires and unemployed — all of us

suffer from sleep deprivaon at one me

or another. In 2020 the global health crisis

caused major stress to all and made sleep

deprivaon even more common. We may

not be able to avoid some sleepless nights,

but we can help protect our skin from their

negave effects.




Circa stands for circadian and reflects the

way the cream works - acve ingredients

affect the circadian mechanics of skin

changes. Even if you are restless or barely

sleeping at night Circa-Night Cream will

kick-start the restorave processes that

occur in the skin when you are sound

asleep. Circa-Night Cream affects skin cells by aligning skin metabolism with healthy

circadian rhythms and prevenng cell stress and premature ageing. Sleep deprivaon has

a selecve impact on cell funcons - fibroblasts in the deeper skin layers connue to

produce collagen and elasn but fail to arrange them in three-dimensional structures in

the absence of special chaperone proteins. The state of deep sleep acvates chaperone

proteins. Lack of sleep will inhibit collagen and elasn formaon leading to the face

looking red and pale.


on the skin is hard to balance, but amazingly an ancient microorganism dormant in the ice

for thousands of years, can help us. A new bacteria strain, lodobacter ssp, discovered in

the glaciers of the Swiss canton of Valais, where Meder Beauty Science Lab is situated.

These molecules can acvate the 3D arrangement of structural proteins in the skin and

restore the synthesis of chaperones, which decrease with age and lack of sleep. Ice-

Awake, a new ingredient based on these bacteria, can postpone the appearance of

wrinkles, and support the skin’s elascity. Addionally, this metabioc can restore the

healthy synthesis of ATP, the cell energy currency in the mitochondria and launch the

skin’s restorave process.

NATURAL SOY PEPTIDES: Lack of sleep disrupts the synthesis of type I collagen, one of

the key markers of ageing. Young skin is firm and elasc due to large contents of type I

collagen, but with age, it is replaced by less organised and elasc proteins. As the

producon of type I collagen diminishes, this will contribute to the skin thinning and

looking red. Circa-Night Cream is enriched with a complex of glycoproteins HRGPs

derived from natural soy extract to restore collagen synthesis at night regardless of sleep


PROBIOTIC FROM THE INDIAN OCEAN: To support and enhance the effect of

metabioc Ice-Awake® and soy pepdes, the Circa-Night Cream formula was

strengthened with an epigenec ingredient of bacterial origin, probioc Sirtalice® derived

from the ice-cold waters 3.5 km deep within the Indian Ocean. Probioc Sirtalice®

acvates the synthesis of type I collagen protein precursors, while blocking the

producon of harmful enzymes that destroy collagen and elasn. But, the most important

effect of Sirtalice® is its ability to instantly launch the synthesis of ATP - the energy

generated by mitochondria in skin cells.

SHEA BUTTER ENRICHED WITH VITAMIN B5: African shea buer is added for its

beneficial lipids to restore skin protecon and vitamin B5 to support against inflammaon,

reduces irritaon, and restores the skin’s ability to regenerate at night. Circa-Night Cream

helps align the skin metabolism with healthy circadian rhythms, prevenng stress-related

changes and premature ageing even if you don’t get enough sleep.

To introduce CIRCA-NIGHT to your clients, contact MEDER BEAUTY SCIENCE 0466 338

844 admin@beautyscience.com.au mederbeautyscience.com.au


APJ 46

At Meder Beauty Science, We Believe That Mandatory

Measures Need to Be in Place in the Beauty Industry to

Achieve a Professional Standard for Success.

We are looking for YOU,

but are you looking for US?


Are you dealing with product waste?

Are you looking for something to fill a void?

Are you currently rewarded for your loyalty?

Are you red of compeng with every other clinic?

Are you looking for products that are clinically proven?

Are you looking for a product that produces instant results?

Are you wanng something that has no animal tesng history?

Are you looking for a company that doesn't compete with you?

Are you ready for a Professional brand that is ahead of its me?

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Are you looking for a product with natural refined acve ingredients?

Are you red of compeng with department stores selling your brands?

Are you looking for a brand with products your clients can't live without?

Are you able to measure your product "Return on Investment" accurately?

Are you using an award-winning global brand that has a proven track record?

Are you looking for a brand that has won awards against the beauty industry giants?

Are you wanng a product with unique packaging, locking in all the acve ingredients?

Are you aware MEDER is the world's first “Clinically Proven Pre & Probioc” skincare?

Are you ready to make a difference in your clients' lives and increase your customer base?

Are you looking for something unique that gives you the opportunity to be first to market?

Are you wanng to introduce "Targeted Professional Products" to meet your clients' needs head-on?

Are you aware that Australians & New Zealanders have been buying MEDER from overseas unl now?

Are you looking for a globally established high-end professional product new to the Australian market?

Are you struggling to find a high-end product with flexible buy in opons and requires minimal outlay?

So how did we measure up?

Are YOU looking for US?

If you are ready to make a change or looking for a high-end

Professional Cosmeceutical ...Ask yourself...

Are YOU the next


0466 338 844 admin@mederbeautyscience.com.au mederbeautyscience.com.au

APJ 47





Tina Viney


PARALYSE our thinking and restrict our ability to idenfy soluons

and resolve problems. This is because fear puts us in a ‘fight and

flight’ mode and all we want to do is escape. While this may be

appropriate for an immediate threat, it is not the state of mind we

need to remain in if we want to resolve on-going or long-term


The world as we know it has changed forever. So has the way we

need to do business. Experts agree that there are sll

opportunies for business survival and even growth, but we need

to be open to new ideas, revisit our business model and be flexible

to change. This does not mean rearranging a couple of things in

the way we do things it is more fundamental than that – it

requires that we gain a new way of thinking and perceiving our

changing world in order to idenfy new opons that may serve us


All new ideas originate in the brain through thought processes.

Gaining a beer understanding of how our brain works when it

comes to conceptualising and solve problems wisely can be very

useful, especially when we are seeking to idenfy changes that

will serve us beer.

At our recent Aesthec Conference, I discussed the two key

modes of thinking - linear and lateral - and how we can benefit by

tapping into both modes and ulising them efficiently to make

wiser and more producve decisions. In this arcle I will share

these principles and trust they can help maximise your potenal in

making well thoughtout and wise decisions during these

challenging mes.


As a rule, we usually make business decision based on the analysis

of informaon we possess through specific, logical criteria. This

informaon is oen obtained through educaon we have

completed, or supplier training through companies we engage

with. We introduce a product or a technology into our business

and we undergo training on the appropriate methodology, policies

and procedures of how to use the piece of equipment or skincare

appropriately. This process is called vercal or linear thinking and

usually directs us to a predicable outcome of how we think and

perform a task.

Studies are now idenfying the value of processing informaon

and making decisions based on the principles of lateral thinking.

This mode of thinking can lead us to outcomes that are more

creave, original and less predictable allowing us to carve our

niche though a more unique business model that can provide us

with a strong compeve advantage.

In challenging mes, we aim to excel by becoming a specialist at

what we do. However, it is now considered a dangerous

presupposion that we only need to specialise in the one thing we

do and remain ignorant of what other services are all about and

how they can appeal to our client-base. In terms of a mindset,

that is considered vercal or linear thinking, but we also need to

understand and appreciate the value we can gain from the lateral

thinking perspecve, so let’s compare both and see what benefits

each mode can offer us and how working efficiently with both

modes can help us achieve new and beer ways of making



Lateral thinking is solving problems through an indirect and

creave approach, using reasoning that is not immediately obvious

and involving ideas that may not be obtainable by using only

tradional step-by-step logic.

The term lateral thinking was introduced in 1967 by Dr. Edward de

Bono. a Maltese physician and psychologist who defines it as a

technique of problem solving by approaching problems indirectly at

diverse angles instead of concentrang on a single approach.

Lateral thinking is the ability to use your imaginaon to look at a

problem in a fresh way and come up with a new soluon.

Successful business managers usually draw on lateral thinking

skills to solve problems by ulising innovave ways to keep their

team engaged and on track with their performance. They achieve

this by using surprise elements to movate them to remain

producve. In essence, lateral thinking requires that you think

outside the box through approaches that are oen illogical and

unconvenonal. Here is an example. A manager is seeing that the

team is starng to exhibit signs of irritability, disconnect,

clumsiness and an inability to remain focused on their goals

resulng in a drop of producvity. While she idenfied signs of

fague and clumsiness, she realises she needs to immediately

APJ 48

implement a strategy that will change this dangerous trajectory

and bring the team back in line. This is what she does.

She announces to the staff that they she will close the business for

30 minutes and take them across the road to the tavern for a

quick drink together and a bite to eat. During that me, she

acknowledges that she recognises that the team is stressed with

all the pressures they are confronted with. She individually affirms

each staff member for their strengths and abilies and aempts to

enhance their team morale by reinforcing trust and confidence in

their ability to pull through the challenges they are facing. She also

affirms that she wants to ensure that all their posions of

employment are retained. She finishes by saying, “I have every

confidence in all of you that together we can pull through this.”

This approach could be considered completely opposite to a

tradional one of ‘performance reviews, and please explain your

reason for a lack of producvity’, but it sends a powerful message to

the staff that their human frailty is taken into consideraon and

while it has contributed to a hiccup in producvity, the manager

has chosen to focus on recognising their strengths and restoring

their confidence to rise to the challenge and achieve their goals.

This is lateral thinking.


So how does Linear thinking differ? Linear thinking is based on

logic, rules and raonality (or sustained reason) to solve a problem.

Linear thinking is also known as vercal, or focused mode of

thinking. This is how you operate when you are concentrang

intently on something you are trying to learn, solve or perform.

While crical thinking is also linear it is more sophiscated or

advanced as it goes one step further. It requires us to pull things

apart, ask quesons, invesgate analyse and crically appraise.

We are encouraged to examine all the evidence and seek

addional resources and informaon before reaching a conclusion.

Linear thinking uses logic as the key driver. This mode of thinking

is important when we want to perfect a skill. It is based solely on

logic and evidence-based informaon. While this mode of thinking

is the most reliable when it comes to gaining educaon and

qualifying for a profession, it oen leaves us short with some of

life’s challenges.


In comparison, the diffused or lateral mode of thinking springs

into acon when our brain is in a relaxed state. This is when you

are unconsciously thinking of the problem you are trying to

understand or solve. Even when you step back from a problem and

not think about it, the thought can sll be running in the back of

your mind unconsciously as you go about your day.

It is in this relaxed state that your brain is free to wander around,

explore and make new potenal connecons between ideas and

concepts that already exist. In this parasympathec state the

brain creates new neurons expanding your ability to recognise

addional pathways of thought. For example, have you ever gone

to sleep with a problem and the next morning without thinking

about it suddenly the right answer just pops up?

So, how do you develop your ability to also think laterally? Studies

confirm that exercise and sleep are wonderful ways to switch your

mind into the lateral or diffused mode of thinking. Both help the

brain develop new neural pathways which help you understand

and retain informaon effecvely. Please also note that this is why

taking breaks is so important, especially if you are feeling stuck. A

break away from work mode is not necessarily lost me.

Distancing yourself from a challenge or a problem can actually

serve you in allowing the brain to idenfy ways of perfecng your

skills sets as well as improving your performance. Remember that

with your staff as well. It will re-energise them and improve their



For effecve learning or creave decision to be made, your brain

needs to constantly be able to go back and forth between these

two modes — grappling with and trying to understand or solve a

problem in the linear mode, while stepping back from it for a me.

This will allow the brain to relax and assimilate ideas and form new

connecons between related concepts in the background. In doing

so, it will help you see the problem from a big picture perspecve.

You can then switch back to the raonal or linear mode — where

you can then gain more detailed informaon from these newly

formed connecons and build on top of them.

APJ 49


Essenally, when we study to enter our profession, we are

presented with concepts and ideals and then encouraged to

systemacally apply that knowledge through specific steps,

policies and procedures that are designed to help us achieve an

outcome. This strictly involves linear or raonal thinking. As a

result, we learn to trust the Linear thinking mode, because it has

led us to gain knowledge and develop our skills. There is no doubt

that most of us operate through a linear dominant thought


While linear thinking is the preferred mode for learning, once we

move into applying our professional knowledge, and even more so

when establishing a business brand and determining our

compeve advantage, this is where the importance of lateral

thinking is crical. This is because lateral thinking can provide us

with the flexibility to solve problems through an indirect and

creave approach, while remaining in linear mode can help us do

tasks well, it can also keep us persistent and inflexible to

necessary changes we need to make. Here are four benefits how

lateral thinking can help us in this present me:

• Alternaves: It can allow us to idenfy new concepts that

breed new ideas.

• Focus: It can help us sharpen or change our focus to improve

our creave efforts.

• Challenge: It can help us to break free from the limitaons of

outdated or predictable ways of thinking and doing things.

• Originality: It can help us idenfy new concepts that can

make us unique, original and more compeve.

I am sure most of you invest in your ongoing learning. Once you

graduate, much of what you connue to learn involved the

applicaon of technology and treatment methodologies, or

protocols. While this informaon is invaluable and essenal, your

competor have probably gained the same informaon when

using similar technology or products as you have, so how can you

compete and what is your point of difference? You need to find

ways that you express what you do and how your brand will differ

in philosophy or culture. You will need to shape your brand in a

way that reflects who you are and will aract the clientele who

can resonate and trust your values and philosophy.


The Chameleon is a disncve and highly specialised group of

lizards with over 202 species that come in a range of colours.

They have been endowed by nature to be able to change their

colour in order to protect themselves from predators. In a bed of

grass their skin turns green, but when they are on the earth, they

take on the colour of their environment and become brown. This

camouflage aids in their survival.

Now let’s consider - during the introducon of the first lockdowns

what was our number one priority? Was it not our survival from

the virus? We were warned to social distance, retreat from contact

with others for our own safety and survival. We took me out to

re-evaluate our priories, our safety and our direcon. I know that

many stated how they enjoyed the quieter pace of life and the

focus on safety and survival. However, once we returned to our

businesses, we need to become aware of how our clients have

changed, how the world has changed and how we also need to

step out and do things differently in order to move forward. We

need to guard against the Chameleon syndrome of just blending

with our environment and the status quo, instead of innovang

and embracing change.


Another important area of consideraon is to make sure you are

clear on your aims. If you have implemented certain changes and

you gradually evolve your brand to have a different focus, you

need to make sure that these changes are clearly structured and

arculated. Guard against being vague about these changes, you

need to gain clarity about what now are your aims and strongly

pursue them.

If we reorientate our percepons, clearly define who we are and

what we stand for, we will enhance our probabilies to get what

we want out of life, but we need to be deadly serious about what

our aims are and then pursue them.


As you review what changes you will be implemenng it is useful

to run a quick check on three specific areas that you will find

defined in Michael Gerber’s book The E-Myth Enterprise. Gerber’s

business methodology is now highly validated and is even taught

at university. In brief the three skillsets that make up a successful

business are:

• The Entrepreneur – this skillset is required to establish the

overall concept of the business brand, the services it will

provide, the business model, the concept and the direcon.

What will it look like and who will be the target market it will

focus on?

• Manager – once this is defined the role of the manager is to

establish the systems that will implement and introduce the

business concept – policies and procedures, rules and

regulaons, account and record-keeping systems, progress

evaluaon systems, stocktaking spreadsheets, staff interview

processes and staff development and educaon, client

interacon, consent form, feedback forms, client

communicaon processes, social media, website, payment

transacon methods, etc.

• Technician – who will be the exceponally skilled person who

is dedicated to safety and technical excellence in delivering

the service? How will they update their skills, stay current and

perfect them?

Now truthfully consider your own strengths in these three areas?

Be ruthlessly honest about what you love and are good at and

what you are not so good at. The areas where you lack skill or

passion are the areas in which you need to hire others. There is

common tendency for business owner to hire people who are just

like themselves, leaving the business at a loose end in the area

they are weak in.

If you tolerate pung systems in place, but find it boring, access

documents from your associaon where experts have put these

together for you. (APAN has over 50 resource documents and

kits), or hire a “detail” person who loves systems and order. Don’t

hire an entrepreneur that may compete with you and want to

constantly implement new ideas, while failing to put the right

systems in place to help strengthen and streamline operaons.

On the other hand, you may be an amazing praconer but you

lack sufficient entrepreneurial capabilies to idenfy your opons.

Focus on strengthening your lateral thinking ability to allow you to

idenfy new opportunies. If you are sll struggling, don’t feel

bad about it, we are rarely strong in all three areas. Either hire

someone, or consult with a person who is skilled in the area you

are weak in. If you are an APAN member please book a mentoring

session with me and together we can brainstorm to discover

opon for moving forward. It’s that simple. Don’t struggle on

your own – reach out to us, help is available and we are here to

support you.

Finally, I encourage you to look at change as your friend. With the

right skills you can idenfy ways of moving forward. While this is

just an introducon to this topic, please know there are answer for

all your problems and experts who can help. APJ

APJ 50




Deb Farnworth-Wood


women will purchase from a well-known

brand over a bouque or niche one – a

scary stasc for the small business owner

who generally doesn’t have the same large

figure markeng budget. It is also a noisy

world out there with the average

consumer potenally hit with thousands of

markeng messages every day. So how

does the small business stand out in the

crowded marketplace and what can you do

to ensure you are seen and heard?

Believe it or not, small businesses can have

several compeve advantages over larger

brands. For one, smaller businesses tend to

be more agile. Big brands usually have

complex corporate structures where

decisions must make their way through the

chain of command. They also rely on

feedback from mulple locaons to inform

their strategies and oen need to market

to a wider demographic, which in turn

requires more content and more


Small businesses have the flexibility to

offer a more personal service and be more

accommodang. They also tend to be

beer informed about the local

marketplace and are in a beer posion to

react quickly to market changes.

For a small business, in a service

environment, word-of-mouth is by far the

most cost-effecve markeng mechanism.

If your team is delivering quality

treatments, with effecve client outcomes

and five-star service, then word of mouth

referrals should be easy to come by. The

trick of course, is geng the team to ask

for referrals and then to treat every new

client as though they are their only client

to ensure they keep coming back. “Refer-afriend”

cards are a great reminder to your

clients to let their contacts know about

your services. You may wish to consider a

client reward for the referral, but some

clients may be embarrassed about

receiving a free treatment in return for a

recommendaon. I find that most people are willing to do a favour for others - especially

when they have provided a great customer experience for them. My preference is to hand

the client two business cards and simply ask them to pass them on to any friends, family

or colleagues who may need your services.

Many businesses owners see markeng as a “chore” that needs to be carried out from

me to me when they need more clients, but one way or another it should be a part of

your everyday work. That said, the following six tasks should feature on your quarterly

review checklist:

1. Review your Google Places lisng – how does it compare to your competors? Have

you added any new services onto the lisng? Do your photos reflect your business

fully and are your contact details and opening mes current? Bing also has a places

directory - luckily for those with an endless to-do list, it can be set up to pull

automacally from Google Places.

2. Review your website – is it current, modern, up to date and does it speak to your

intended clientele? Is it easy to navigate and does your menu structure make sense?

Does it load quickly? Does it allow easy online booking? Does it clearly provide all the

informaon your potenal clients are looking for?

3. Review your social media – are you posng regularly with good quality content? Are

you responding to enquiries quickly and engaging with your audience? Is your bio up

to date? Are you adapng to new ways of interacng on social media?

4. Review your exterior signage and in-house display and markeng materials - Is it all

in prisne condion? Is it current, clean and does it represent your business in the

best light?

5. Review your database – are you making the most of your client and contact lists and

are you regularly reaching out with professional-looking, relevant content?

6. Review staff presentaon – are your staff wearing uniforms and if so, are they looking

worn or fresh? The way staff present themselves is parcularly relevant in the

aesthec industry. A neat, polished appearance gives your clients confidence when

seeking treatments.

Over the years I’ve seen some terrible markeng blunders. A salon that ed its signage to

a wheelie bin to stop it blowing over, salons with broken leaflet holders stuck to their

windows, half peeled off sckers on windows, out- dated and shabby signage, branded

posters for products they no longer sell and even filthy front doors, run-down waing

areas and stained uniforms. All of these give a clear message about the business … lack of

care and lack of relevance in an industry that is all about the aesthec.

Finally, monitoring the success of your markeng efforts is vital. Do you have a system for

capturing and following up on enquiries and then measuring your success at converng

those enquiries into sales? Without this, a business owner could be pouring money down

the drain without the ability to assess whether their markeng dollars are being used

wisely. APJ

APJ 51






Tina Viney


VOLUMISING OF THE SKIN there is sll much that can be done

through regenerave skin therapies to support collagen and

elasc integrity.

Several years ago, I was interviewed for a TV producon. During

the filming I was asked to explain the difference between skin

therapies, injectables and surgery in just three minutes. While this

was a challenge this is how I answered them.

Imagine your face is a pillow, the pillowcase is your skin, and the

filling represents the deeper skin layers, fat, muscles, and bones

that support the pillowcase so it remains smooth and snug. Now

imaging over progressive use that the pillow filling becomes

flaened, what would happen to the pillowcase? It would become


So, we have three opons to correct this:

• We could cut the pillowcase and resize it so that it can once

again fit the pillow nice and snug – that is what plasc surgery

does, it removes excess skin and ghtens and remodels the

skin to fit the face that is experiencing volume decline.

• We could add extra padding to the pillow to increase its

volume and resize the shape of the pillow to resemble its

original state – that is what injectable fillers will do. They will

add volume to sunken, or loose areas of the face.

• Or we could beat and fluff the pillow to reacvate its volume,

so it regains its original shape – that is what skin therapies

using various techniques and technologies aempt to do, they

smulate the skin to behave more youthfully.

While hyaluronic acid and other volumising substances are

introduced to the skin via injecons, skin therapies aempt to

smulate the body’s own physiology. This involves strategies to

smulate the components that are responsible for volume and

skin smoothness, and these are in larger percentages collagen and

elasn. Gaining a beer understanding of these structures will

allow us to determine how best to regenerate them.


Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body and makes up

around 70-80% of the dry weight of skin. It is found in connecve

ssues, such as carlage, tendons and fat. It is also found in skin,

bones, organs and eyeballs as well as hair and nails. Collagen in

joints is what helps us move smoothly without feeling bones grate

against each other. Collagen provides your skin with structure. In

visual terms, collagen can be related to the “glue” that binds many

of your body parts together. The name collagen even derives from

the Greek word, “kólla” which literally means “glue.”

There are around 28 different types of collagen in the body. Each

type contains a slightly different sequence of amino acids or

pepdes, which determines the specific role and funcon of that

type of collagen in the body. Of the 28 types, five of them make

up the majority, with Types I, II and III included in the most popular

supplements on the market.

Type I

Type I collagen makes up about 90 per cent of the collagen in our

body. Almost every ssue of your body contains Type I collagen,

including tendons, skin, bones, carlage and connecve ssues.

Densely packed fibres wound into a triple-helix structure comprise

this type. Its unique shape gives these structures their incredible

strength and elascity. As Type I collagen degrades, an increase in

wrinkles, fine lines become more apparent and loss of elascity

starng to manifest.

Type II

Type II collagen is found primarily in carlage. While its structure

is also a triple-helix, it has more loosely packed fibres. Type II

provides the cushion in the carlage for your bones and joints.


This type of collagen is oen found alongside Type I. It makes up

muscles, organs, arteries and some connecve ssues in the liver,

spleen, blood vessels, and internal organs, including the uterus.

Type IV

Type IV collagen doesn’t form a fibrous triple-helix structure like

Types I, II, and III. Instead, it creates a web-like paern. This type

APJ 52

makes up the thin layer outside the cells, giving the cell structure.

It’s also found in the skin, liver, kidneys and other internal organs.

Type V

This unique type of collagen helps form cell surfaces and hair. It’s

also required to form the cells that create a pregnant woman’s

placenta (aka your baby’s life support in the womb).


Collagen essenally acts as the support structure – or scaffolding

for the skin. It’s what keeps skin firm and plump, and gives skin the

ability to retain moisture. Just picture a baby’s so, rounded cheek

– it looks nice and juicy because it’s full of collagen. Starng

around the age of 25, our bodies stop producing as much collagen

which eventually leads to a loss of volume and firmness. Skin that

was once plump and firm can look dry, flat and papery. Think of

the difference between a toddler cheek and that of an 80-yearold.

Collagen also plays a vital role in wound repairs such as skin gras

and second-degree burns. Collagen aracts cells, such as

fibroblasts and keranocytes, to the wound, which encourages

debridement, angiogenesis, and re-epithelialisaon. In addion,

collagen provides a natural scaffold or substrate for new ssue



As we get older, our bodies don’t produce as much collagen. It is

esmated that the skin loses 1% of its collagen every year starng

in the mid-thires and then its loss increases more rapidly.

According to dermatologist Dr. Ohara Aivaz, women, can lose up

to 30% of their collagen producon in the first five years

of menopause.

Collagen loss can also be accelerated by smoking, the sun,

polluon and a poor diet. As collagen producon dips, the

connecve ssue between the skin becomes thinner and the layer

of fat underneath it becomes more visible, leading to cellulite on

the body. On the face, the skin can become thinner and more

fragile, and wrinkles may be more visible. Hair and nails can

become weaker and joint pain may become more noceable.

According to The Cleveland Clinic, as collagen levels decrease with

age this not only leads to wrinkles and crepey-looking skin but

also sffer, less flexible tendons and ligaments, as well as shrinking

and weakening of muscles. Joint pain or osteoarthris may occur

due to worn carlage, along with gastrointesnal problems due to

thinning of the lining in the digesve tract.



Elasn is what gives skin its “bounce back” property, as the name

implies. Similarly, to collagen, elasn is made up of fibroblasts,

pepdes and amino acids. Its rubber-band like nature is essenal

in helping us convey expressions. According to the University of

Leeds, elasn is what makes ssue recoil aer being stretched,

just like a rubber band – but elasc fibres are five mes more

extensible than an elasc band. Like collagen, elasn is a protein

that is found in the body’s connecve ssue. It is found in the skin

as well as the lungs, intesnes and artery walls. As elasn levels

decline, skin can wrinkle and sag.

Collagen and elasn are oen menoned together as they are

jointly responsible for the skin’s firmness and shape, but they have

different funcons. As we know, the dermis consists of a thick

layer of fibrous and elasc ssue, made mostly of collagen, with a

small but important component of elasn that gives the skin its

flexibility and strength.

While both collagen and elasn are similar, they do have their

differences. Collagen is produced by the body connuously

(although levels decline with age) while the body creates elasn

mainly during the foetal stage. Another key difference is that

collagen is a fibrous protein, while elasn is a protein that has the

ability to stretch and return to its original form. According to

several studies, elasn is substanally more flexible than collagen.

Put another way, collagen makes skin plump while elasn makes it


The natural ageing process can take its toll on elasn cells that can

become damaged over me due to wear and tear and natural

degradaon. This means that the skin will no longer be as capable

of bouncing back into posion, and this causes the formaon of

APJ 53

lines and wrinkles especially around the upper face – eyes,

forehead, and the mouth where it is more abundant during our

younger years, allowing the skin to be flexible when we express



There are three ways that we can support our collagen and elasn

levels. These are:

• Preventave measures

• Skin treatment procedures, skincare formulaons and


• Diet and lifestyle


It’s not just ageing that can have a negave effect on collagen and

elasn. Other lifestyle habits and environmental factors also play a

role, including:

Smoking – smoking can seriously damage blood vessels, which

means they can deliver less nutrients and oxygen to your skin,

causing collagen and elasn to break down more quickly. The act

of smoking itself also causes your lips to pucker, and over me this

will lead to wear and tear of the elasn around your mouth,

causing lines and wrinkles to develop.

UV Damage – Too much sun, without sufficient sun protecon

and in parcular, UVA protecon, can contribute to rapid

deterioraon of both collagen and elasn. On-going sun exposure

can contribute to severe deterioraon of collagen and elasn

fibres resulng in deep seated wrinkles and a leathery skin that

manifest as premature ageing.

While several technologies can contribute to reviving and

smulang collagen and elasn, without appropriate skin

protecve measures these treatments will be counterproducve.



There are several procedures that work on a cellular level to help

support collagen and elasn producon. As elasn is intertwined

with collagen fibres to form the collagen-elasn network we can

use technologies to smulate both at the same me.


One effecve technology that is experiencing a comeback is

microcurrent. So how does it work? Microcurrent has a wide

variety of incredible benefits. It is primarily sought out for the reeducaon

of facial muscles, muscle tone and natural contouring.

The reason that it can achieve this is because of its ability to

increase Adenosine Triphosphate (or ATP) levels through a mild

electrical current?

As we age, we produce less ATP and ATP produces the energy

that fuels the cell’s ability to make collagen and elasn. With a less

consistent producon of ATP, the body is unable to replace the

damage being done and to revive our collagen and elasn.

However, in order to build collagen, we need ATP.

Every muscle group ulises energy for movement. This movement

is derived in the form of ATP. The energy from ATP is used to reset

the myosin. Myosin is the motor, acn filaments are the tracks

along which myosin moves, and ATP is the fuel that powers

movement. For muscles to contract they need energy, that energy

comes from the nutrion we feed our body, but the immediate

source of myosin energy comes from the ATP.

Microcurrent facial treatments not only increase ATP by up to

500% and protein synthesis by up to 73%, but also increases

fibroblasc acvity by up to 60% and membrane transport (cell

permeability) by 30-40%. In addion, clinical studies consistently

show that microcurrent also increases blood circulaon by 35%.


As we know, microneedling creates ny pinpricks in the skin

causing slight injury. The skin responds to that injury by making

new collagen-rich ssue. This new skin ssue is in turn, more even

in tone and texture. According to a 2008 study, skin treated with

four microneedling sessions spaced one month apart, combined

with the applicaon of vitamin A and C considerably increased

collagen and elasn producon up to a 400% six months aer

compleng the treatment. The controlled skin injuries produced by

microneedling send the skin into a repair mode that triggers the

body to produce new collagen, as well as elasn, improving the

skin’s elascity. Microneedling also encourages the growth of

fibroblasts, epithelial and endothelial cells, which can equate to a

more even skin tone and a healthy glow.

IPL and Laser Treatments

IPL Photo-rejuvenaon works by penetrang deeply into the skin

to smulate new collagen growth and to promote the shedding of

damaged ssue. Independent clinical research has shown that

treatment with IPL at low energies can increase collagen

producon by 42% in one treatment. It works by introducing

intermient pulses of laser light to the skin. This light passes

through the upper layers of the skin, which in turn leaves the

healthy ssue unharmed. New collagen is produced, which in turn

allows for the skin to undergo a marked improvement.

It’s important to understand that IPL therapy boosts collagen

producon in several ways, which in turn makes it incredibly

useful to older individuals that may suffer from ageing skin.

The first way destroys undesirable collagen structures. This allows

the body to iniate the healing process, which in turn allows it to

smulate collagen producon.

The second way is by encouraging blood flow to treated areas. The

excess heat is absorbed by the surrounding ssue. While this heat

tends to be insufficient to cause damage, it does cause the blood

vessels to expand. This results in an increased blood flow, which in

turn ensures that collagen can be produced at an increased rate.

The last major way involves the other effects of iniang the

body’s repair process. Once the old, less dense collagen structures

are removed, the body tends to be beer able to produce new

collagen cells aer the new ssue has been created. This results in

a general improvement to the firmness and texture of skin for a

prolonged period following successful IPL therapy.

When it comes to laser therapy, the growth of collagen and elasn

can be smulated through the use of intense wavelengths of light

and ultrasound. This energy triggers a natural response under the

skin, jump-starng the regenerave process that produces fresh,

new collagen.

LED Light

Another light source that can smulate collagen and elasn is LED,

especially the far and near infrared light, which acts on fibroblasts

that are responsible for collagen and elasn producon. Red light

also reduces skin inflammaon, and this acon enhances skin


The combinaon of technologies used in conjuncon with

evidence-based skincare ingredients such as hyaluronic acid,

renol, vitamin C, a diverse range of pepdes, niacinamide,

Coenzyme Q10, aloe vera and ginseng can substanally support

skin rejuvenaon by strengthening collagen and elasn


APJ 54

Collagen and Elasn and An-wrinkle Injecons

In treang the effects of collagen and elasn loss, and prevenng

this loss from occurring, an-wrinkle injecons can be one of the

quickest and most efficient soluons. This is because these

injecons will temporarily relax the muscle and the ssue that

control facial movement in parcular areas. This means that

forming expressions will be more challenging, as the muscles are in

a very relaxed state. This allows the skin to repair and reset,

smoothing out areas of lines and wrinkles.

Collagen supplements claim to help ease joint pain, slow muscle

loss and promote heart health along with improving the skin.

A 2014 study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, excerpted in

the Naonal Centre for Biotechnology Informaon, gave a group

of women aged 35-55 oral collagen pepdes. At the end of the

study, skin elascity in both groups showed a stascally

significant improvement in comparison to placebo. Aer four

weeks of follow-up treatment, a stascally significantly higher

A new study has found that mulple injecons of Restylane filler

was able to temporarily remove lines by literally filling them in.

Addionally, it was found that injectables can smulate the skin to

produce more collagen and strengthen the skin, eliminang

sagging and wrinkles. Other reputable injectables are Radiesse

and Ellanse also delivered similar results.


When it comes to diet, nutrion and lifestyle, we know that these

play a large part in collagen and elasn skin improvement. The skin

is nourished by oxygen and nutrients delivered to the dermis via

our blood vessels.

Collagen is produced naturally in the human body. The body

produces collagen by combining amino acids that are found

in protein-rich foods, like beef, chicken, fish, beans, eggs and dairy

products. Collagen producon is also supported by nutrients such

as vitamin C, zinc and copper.

According to Healthline, food like chicken skin, pork skin, beef, and

fish are excellent sources of collagen along with foods that contain

gelane, such as bone broth.

What about supplements?

Collagen supplements are one of the fastest growing industry.

They are available as powders, pills, and drinks that are oen

called “elixirs.” The collagen is usually derived from fish, pigs, and

cows and can include animal by-products such as skin or bones.

skin elascity level was determined in the more mature women.

However, others are scepcal about oral collagen supplements as

there is concern as to whether stomach acid breaks down the

collagen proteins before it can reach the skin. One concern is

that collagen molecules are too large to be absorbed into the

bloodstream. Some companies “shrink” the size of collagen, with

the concept that it becomes more easily absorbed by the body.

But crics of supplements point out that consuming collagen

doesn’t mean it gets converted into more collagen in our skin.

Even if the collagen makes it past the gut into the bloodstream,

you cannot control where it ends up. As much as you’d like the

collagen to focus on your face rather than your joints, it may not.


One of the most important ways to care for exisng collagen and

elasn is to protect their deterioraon from the sun’s damaging

rays. This means wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen every single

day, no maer what the weather forecast is

predicng. Anoxidants in serums and creams can also help.

Powerhouse ingredients such as vitamins A, C, E, as well as green

tea and pomegranate work by blocking the damage caused by free

radicals, which aack collagen and elasn.


The most effecve way of protecng and smulang collagen and

elasn is by incorporang an approach that includes prevenon,

protecon, and treatments where all strategies work

synergiscally to achieving the best possible outcome. APJ

APJ 55


Leading solutions for


ISSADA is a renowned clinical-strength

cosmeceucal formulaon with a strong

brand identy that is fast growing in

recognion and popularity. It provides

proven and consistent treatment results,

exceponal profit margins and amazing

company support for its partners. The

range offers treatment soluons for face

and body, as well as an exceponal high

quality mineral makeup range. We profile

two of its latest product innovaons.

Collagen+ Support Serum

Issada’s Collagen+ Support Serum is

supercharged with vegan-friendly collagen

sourced from seaweed rather than derived

from animals as is the case with many

tradional formulas.

This concentrated formula has harnessed

the potency of just four pure, high-quality

acve ingredients – Hyaluronic acid,

Vegetable Collagen, Vitamin C and Radish

Root. The plant-based Marine Collagen

works to strengthen and repair the skin’s

natural collagen and elasn, while

anoxidant vitamin C and hydrang

Hyaluronic Acid brighten, plump and

moisturise restoring the skin’s vitality.

Radish Root acts as both an aninflammatory

and a natural preservave in

line with Issada’s clean cosmec promise.

Collagen+ Support Serum is ideal for dull,

dry, ageing, sun-damaged or pigmented

skin and is suitable for all skin types,

including sensive and acne-prone.

Bio-Slim Cellulite Treatment

While cellulite is completely normal for more than 90% of women and we firmly support

anyone who embraces it, for those who do wish to visibly reduce its appearance and tone

the skin, Issada has formulated a powerful breakthrough cream, Bio-Slim Cellulite


Bio-Slim contains an armoury of potent ingredients to reduce the appearance of cellulite

in a multude of ways. Longan Fruit Seed Extract inhibits the PAI-1 Protein, which is

increasingly produced as we get older. This decreases the formaon of blood supply to

adipose ssue, where lipids are stored. Bio-Slim Cellulite treatment will decrease the

appearance of lip deposits by up to 69%.

The inclusion of amino acid Threonine assists in breaking down fats so that the body can

metabolise and excrete them more easily.

The formula also includes the botanical extracts Laminaria Digitata (a type of seaweed

also known as Oar Weed), Fucus Vesiculosis (Sea Oak) Horsetail, Hedera Helix and

Cucumber. The acve combinaon of ingredients support fat metabolism, fluid retenon

and collagen producon to reduce the appearance of cellulite and visibly firm the skin.

Addionally, Bio-Slim Cellulite Treatment can be used immediately post-treatment aer

Cryolipolysis/Fat Freezing treatments and is essenal for any homecare roune posttreatment.

Issada is trusted and is trusted by 250+ professional salons, clinics and spas throughout

Australia, at their two Brisbane studios and online at www.issada.com APJ

07 3904 2288


APJ 56

A completeapproach to beautiful skin



Throughpure,high-quality, talc-free mineralmakeup and advanced

cosmeceautical skincare,Issada are commited to complete skinhealth.

Formulated with clean, active ingredients to achieve flawlessresultsfor every

skintype, Issada isthe ultimate addition to professionalaesthetic practices.


To learn more about how Issada can benefit your spa, clinic or professional

salon, please call 07 3904 2288 or visit issada.com/partners


APJ 57




IN EACH ISSUE OF APJ we love to share inspiraonal and heartwarming

stories of an APAN member and in this issue, we had the

pleasure of speaking with Carol Morgan, CEO of Cosmec Skin

Therapies, a cosmec medicine franchise.

Carol is an advocate for change and is making a difference in the

evolving cosmec medicine and aesthecs industry. She exudes

that perfect combinaon of gravitas, warmth, and passion that

comes with following what she believes in - in creang a company

from grassroots. Her smile lights up the room, and she has one of

those unique blends of determinaon combined with absolute

authencity that have seen her succeed throughout every stage of

her career.

Here we share with you Carol’s journey, her contribuon to

developing a new franchise business model that challenged the

cosmec medicine industry, and how she is leading the way when

it comes to having a voice and advocang for Registered Nurses

(RNs) naonally.

Cosmec Skin Therapies (CST) is the cosmec medicine franchise

that is changing the status quo through its unique business model

that is offering praconer-flexibility, while ensuring paents

opmal value, care and safety. Even though she is not a skin

therapist or cosmec nurse herself, Carol with the support of her

expert team, has pioneered and is the CEO of a unique business

model with the RNs in mind to ensure they have safe, flexible

businesses, while sll achieving their personal, financial and

lifestyle goals.

Carol's story starts at the very early age of just 16, in Victroria.


When I was 16, as a school leaver, I inially entered the working

world as a secretary. It was an experience that shaped the next

three decades because, in that role, I was sexually assaulted by my

boss and as such I resigned aer six short weeks.

The case was taken to court, and we had a public hearing. For me,

it was a nerve-wracking experience for a host of reasons. First, I

was just a teenage girl, fresh out of school and second, this was

the 80s. Sexual harassment and assault in the workplace was just

not spoken about.

We hear of these ripple effects, and that’s exactly what happened

when I spoke up. Australia had only recently passed laws making

sexual harassment illegal, and my case was one of the first in

Australia to test the newly minted laws.

Against the odds, I won my case which went on to set legal

precedent. Many people approached me to share that they had

similar experiences and to thank me for speaking up. My small

teenage voice helped achieve a change in the system for good. It

was, and sll is, one of my proudest achievements.



Throughout the trial itself, there was a lot of media coverage and

public interest which was quite overwhelming for a teenage girl!

The aenon was generally posive, and I was approached by the

board of directors at BHP who loved my determinaon, courage,

and ethics (their words not mine at the me!). I received a

'telegram' from the CEO of BHP Petroleum (BHPP), offering me a

posion and I subsequently spent the next 10 years of my career

working at BHPP.

I oen look back with pure joy at that pivotal moment that helped

launch my career and shaped me as a leader. I feel very privileged

to have worked with such visionary leaders and mentors that I sll

admire today. I didn’t start at BHPP with the idea that I would one

day be running departments single handedly and spearheading

organisaons, but that’s what happened as a result of the qualies

that BHP originally picked up on - my determinaon, courage and


In 2010, it was me for a fresh new challenge outside the

corporate world. I was offered a posion in Rockhampton, working

with the local government on a reclassificaon project. It was a

large, complex, and polical project where I had to manage

people's reacons to change, deal with the unions and work with

external and internal stakeholders for the best outcomes.

What can I say?! Working with such a diverse group of individuals

both internally and externally gave me some solid negoang

skills! Let’s just say the project was extremely successful, and I like

to think that my calm, methodical approach and innate people

skills helped achieve the desired outcomes.

APJ 58





In 2015, I was introduced to Paul and Jennifer Roa, and together

we founded Cosmec Skin Therapies. It was through Jennifer and

Paul that I began to learn more about the world of cosmec

injectables and how challenging it can be for registered nurses in

the industry. I could see that RNs really weren’t receiving the

recognion they deserve and being a determined and courageous

visionary, I began to formulate a plan.

We wanted to do things differently and challenge the status quo.

Over the course of my career, one of the things that became

apparent was that I was parcularly good at reviewing an

organisaon and idenfying gaps and where to make

improvements. In this instance it was an industry I was assessing,

and I was concerned with what I came across.

Cosmec Skin Therapies does everything differently. That was the

plan five years ago when we launched it, and sll is today. Not

only is our model beneficial for RNs, but also for any individual

entering the franchising industry.

We offer a low entry point, transparency around supplier rates and

rebates, a bespoke all-in-one, cloud-based treatment management

system that covers paent care and safety as well as everything

our franchisees need to run their business.

In addion, the Cosmec Skin Therapies model offers:

• Flexibility around the clinic locaon and working part me

versus full me, something franchisees with young families


• The opon to pick and choose which of the core treatments

franchisees offer in their own clinics, including Dermal Fillers,

An-wrinkle, Skin Needling, Threads, PRP, Medical Peels, K-

Laser, Fat Dissolving and IV and IMI Therapies

• The flexibility to provide wider facial aesthecs treatments.

• The ability to determine their own profitability by seng their

own treatment and product pricing.

• We have no markeng levy. Cosmec Skin Therapies provides

markeng and adversing to benefit all their franchisees.

• Ongoing training, support, and mentorship

• We are confident that Cosmec Skin Therapies will remain as

flexible as possible to aract the right franchisees.




I passionately believe that people are at the forefront of any

successful business. Building and connuing to nurture your

relaonships, whether that is your team, network and even your

suppliers, is essenal, otherwise you will not succeed at business.

As a counsellor, you need to be present and hold space for others.

I’ve learnt that it is so important to listen and hear not only what is

being said, but also what is not being said. The issues not being

spoken about are the ones that need to be addressed. When I am

with someone, I'm present and connected - whether it's my

internal team, suppliers, or franchisees. If I am in a meeng, I am

all there.




I believe that a successful network is one that engages at all levels.

A key focus for me is developing the relaonships with our

franchisees further, to ensure we are delivering on what was

promised and that our team all feel supported.

The thing I love most when interacng with our franchisees, is

watching their faces light up because they get to do business on

their terms. It's not just about making money. For many of our

franchisees, it’s around flexibility and connecng with their


The team and I have spent the last five years refining systems,

processes, building the right team members, having the right

suppliers and of course guiding the network through COVID-19. I

feel that the foundaons have been set, and now we’re ready and

able to handle exponenal growth.



I feel so passionate about what we have created at CST already

and I feel like a kid at Christmas, full of excitement at what’s to

come! Personally, I would love to connue being a voice for

change in the cosmec/aesthecs industry and push for equitable

opportunies for Registered Nurses. I also want to demonstrate a

need for change in the franchise industry, using CST's franchise

model as a new way of doing franchise business.

My goal for Cosmec Skin Therapies is to become synonymous

with paent care and safety. We are truly building a brand where

paents feel safe, seen, heard, and can have their treatments in a

discreet clinical seng. These are concerns that come up me and

me again in our industry, and we would like to lead the way with

something different.

Finally, I feel strongly about building a brand that people trust.

When paents visit a Cosmec Skin Therapies clinic, we want

them to feel and know that they are in good hands. Trust and

honesty feature highly on our values list and we want the world to

know about what’s possible. APJ

To follow Carol Morgan and her journey for what she is

pioneering and advocang, please connect with her on LinkedIn

and to find out more about the country’s best kept secret, visit


APJ 59


Innovative ways

to use



for mind, skin,

and body

Eva Boyd

AS A GENERAL RULE CITRUS OILS are purifying, but also

contribute to a calming and relaxing effect on the mind, and

without excepon bergamot oil has some incredible benefits in

these areas. In this arcle we will examine its nootropic effect on

the mind and other ways that we can use it to support wellbeing

and skin health.

Bergamot is a fragrant citrus fruit, that’s about the size of an

orange with a yellowish-green blush. Similar to a lime, its genec

profile is a hybrid of lemon and bier orange. This acidic and

inedible fruit hails from a spiny tree called a citrus bergamia, which

can be found in tropical climates in Southeast Asia, Southern Italy

and the South of France. Blossoming in the winter, the fruit is

culvated for its fragrant skin (not to be eaten) which is then

typically pressed for its precious oil. The peel has a delicate citrus/

floral aroma that is sweet and spicy and is featured in a variety of

perfumes due to its upliing and energising effect. You may also

recognise its characterisc flavour in Earl Grey tea.

In aromatherapy, the oil has proven upliing and energising

effects, supports the central nervous system, soothes anxiety, and

ameliorang over thinking. For the skin, it is beneficial for acne

skin types due to its an-bacterial properes and is also useful for

mature skin for its ability to increase circulaon and regenerate

the skin. Addionally, it also has several other health benefits.


Bergamot Essenal oil is composed of various chemical

constuents including a-pinene, myrcene, limonene, a-bergaptene,

b-bisabolene, linalool, linalyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, geraniol,

geraniol acetate, and a-terpineol.

According to a study from 2010 published in the Journal of

Chemistry and Chemical Engineering, the oil has around forty-six

compounds. However, the authors concluded that fieen

compounds account for 98.52% of the oil. The oil was

characterised by a high content of limonene (59.21%), linalool

(9.51%) and linalyl acetate (16.83%).


Among other things bergamot is also known to exhibit nootropic

effect – this is an important one. Nootropics are a classificaon of

smart drugs that are considered cognive enhancers. They are

also found in supplements and other substances that claim to

improve cognive funcon, parcularly execuve funcons such

as memory, creavity, or movaon in healthy individuals.

These substances provide a range of benefits that allow for

increased mental performance, endurance, balance, and even

higher levels of awareness and creavity. Addionally, studies

confirm that nootropics can potenally provide protecon from

neurodegenerave diseases.

Highlighted below is a closer look at the nootropic effects of

bergamot essenal oil and how this fragrant substance can

increase mental capacity.


Stress triggered in the body does have benefits, by alerng us to

danger and allowing for increased focus, and even fuelling

incredible feats of stamina and endurance. On the other hand,

prolonged periods of elevated stress can begin to have the

opposite effect.

Cognive funcon can be severely hampered by stress-induced

anxiety that can also contribute to mood disorders. When this

happens, the mind can no longer maintain its composure and

resilience. Fears, worries, and feelings of inadequacy lend their

weight to the stressful outlook, which negavely affects focus and

even short-term memory.

Studies confirm that bergamot essenal oil is capable of

interrupng the cycle of stress, restoring mental funcon and the

capacity to focus. Aromatherapy using bergamot essenal oil can

also balance the mood and improve emoonal responses.

Another important task of a good nootropic such as bergamot is

its ability to maintain the funcon of neural pathways and keep

the brain healthy. Today’s pressures and demands place an

unprecedented strain on mental facules, and without protecon,

degenerave diseases can develop.

Oxidave stress is the medical term for damage caused by free

radicals and has been associated with depression, heart

condions, cancer, Parkinson’s,and Hunngton’s diseases, as well

as ageing in general.

APJ 60

Clinical evidence suggests nootropic effects of bergamot essenal

oil have the proper natural compounds to inhibit oxidave stress,

especially in the spinal column. The same study also found

bergamot essenal oils have properes that can counteract the

increased sensivity to pain caused by prolonged use of

analgesics, called hyperalgesia.

A small 2015 study conducted on women in Japan found that

inhaled bergamot oil mixed with water vapour reduced feelings of

anxiety and fague. Similarly, a 2013 study also reported that

aromatherapy with bergamot (among other essenal oils) can

relieve depression, anxiety and other mood disorders by signalling

the brain to release dopamine and serotonin.

With on-going stress related condions on the rise in our industry,

bergamot can be a useful tool to help calm relax and alleviate

stress and tension. A relaxing massage using a 3% blend bergamot

essenal in a carrier oil would be ideal. Addionally, you can also

massage the scalp or introduce it for inhalaon during a treatment.


When it comes to the skin bergamot oil has several benefits. For

example, several compounds in bergamot oil have anbacterial

and an-inflammatory properes. This makes bergamot oil useful

for acne prone condions that are not sensive. The bacterium

tested were:

• Staphylococcus aureus

• Listeria monocytogenes

• Bacillus cereus

• E. coli O157

• Campylobacter jejuni

bergamot may help to reduce overall cholesterol and “bad” LDL

cholesterol. It may also help to increase “good” HDL cholesterol

and has the potenal to be an effecve supplement to cholesterol



Bergamot essenal oil can be irritang to the skin in some people,

especially when it is not diluted with a carrier oil. Essenal oils,

including bergamot oil, can somemes cause allergic dermas.

Addionally, bergamot is also photo-sensising so it should be

avoided when skin is exposed to direct sunlight. Symptoms of an

allergic reacon or sensivity to bergamot oil may include:

• redness

• hives

• burning sensaon

• blisters

• pain

To ensure safety, it is advisable to conduct a patch test prior to

using bergamot essenal and always use it diluted in a carrier oil.

It is also important to check for bergamot oil’s interacon with any

medicaons before using. It is therefore advisable to gain medical

approval to ensure that any medicaons your client is taking

would not interfere with essenal oils.


Research points to bergamot essenal oil’s ability to reduce

inflammaon, lower cholesterol levels, and increase posive

mood. Its pleasant and upliing aroma can offer numerous

benefits for mental and emoonal support as well as skin health

when used with the appropriate precauonary measures. APJ

Study findings suggested that bergamot essenal oil may be

effecve when used against these types of bacteria. Addional

studies are also on-going. Another consideraon when it comes

to acne, is the analgesic properes of bergamot that may also

make it effecve against painful cysts and pimples.


Bergamot oil enthusiasts (and people who love so, lightly scented

hair), swear by this essenal oil’s ability to soen and tame curls.

Anecdotal evidence indicates that bergamot oil may also be

soothing to an irritated scalp. To use, put a few drops in your

usual shampoo. You can also mix one to two drops with a

tablespoon of carrier oil and massage it into your scalp as an

overnight treatment.


In terms of blending with other oils bergamot is very compable

when mixed with:

• Lavender oil: Combined with bergamot, lavender oil can create

a beauful classic fragrance to enhance relaxaon and lower

stress levels.

• Tea tree oil: Combining bergamot with tea tree oil would be an

excellent blend to fight acne and support the skin through the

combined an-bacterial acon.

• Chamomile oil: When combining bergamot and chamomile

you can both induce calmness and mood elevaon – a good

one to have handy in the salon or clinic.


You will also find bergamot available in supplement form, this is

because several studies have shown that the flavonoids found in

APJ 61



An effecve soluon for treang

pigmented skin

PICOHI developed by Hironic, safely

implements a 300-picosecond pulse

duraon, and has opened a new paradigm

in the effecve treatment of pigment




was dominated by the Q-switched laser

toning. However, the laser toning

treatment has some drawbacks: the dark

spots do not easily fade away, even aer

more than 10 treatments, and it takes a

long me to achieve noceable results. In

the aesthec laser market, there has been

various aempts to overcome the

limitaons of treang pigment disorders

and to improve treatment outcomes. One

of the soluons was the 'picoseconddomain

laser system,' which uses

picoseconds to overcome some of these


In this arcle Dr. Cha Hyung-Gi explains

how Hironic's picosecond laser can be

used to effecvely treat pigmentaon,

scars and other skin abnormalies.

Picosecond laser systems are based on the

unit of picoseconds, which means one

trillionth of a second. Picosecond laser

systems deliver high dose rate irradiaon

to treat pigment spots within a short

period of me by eming laser beams

1000 mes faster compared to

nanosecond laser systems. Therefore, you

can see noceable results with a small

number of treatments and minimiSe the

skin ssue damage around the treatment

area or any other side-effects.

This advantage has allowed the

picosecond laser systems to have steadily

APJ 62

grown as a new laser treatment method with worldwide aenon in recent years.

Nevertheless, it is actually difficult to see proper treatment effects with the convenonal

picosecond laser systems because the system stability or durability cannot be guaranteed.

A picosecond laser system with a pulse duraon closer to 300 ps can deliver a higher,

more precise laser irradiaon rate and can obtain beer treatment outcomes. PICOHI

implements 300ps pulse duraon with stable output and is gaining aenon as a suitable


device for toning treatments.

PICOHI is a combinaon of the Nd:YAG laser system and a pigment laser system, which

can be used for two types of treatments. The system is compable with both the MLA

(Micro Lens Array) handpiece and DOE (Diffracve Opcal Element) handpiece. It is

composed of various handpieces which include DOE handpiece with two wavelengths of

532nm and 1064 nm, depth adjustable VMLA handpiece, and spot size adjustable ZMLA


PICOHI can reduce the treatment period by using the 300 per second pulse duraon to

break pigments into smaller parcles compared to the convenonal system. The new

system can selecvely destroy melanin pigments within the treatment area that allows for

treatments with a low risk of side-effects, such as hyperpigmentaon.


PICOHI also acvates the skin regeneraon and helps the treatment of pores or scars by

facilitang the creaon of collagen and elasn through the Laser Induced Opcal

Breakdown (LIOB) mechanism that uses the MLA technique to form ny scars. By using

the PICOHI, you can reduce complex age spots, freckles, or other blemish spots, as well as

treat intractable pigment disorders or remove taoos or permanent makeup. Due to the

fast treatment effect with a small number of treatments, it can be a perfect treatment

method for various paent needs.

There were mes when dark spots no longer responded to the convenonal laser toning

treatment no maer how many mes it is given. The market was also experiencing

treatment limits due to the risk of side-effects that may occur when the irradiaon dose

increases. However, PICOHI, which implements a 300ps pulse duraon, has been

launched at the perfect me. The expectaon for the new pigment disorders treatment

mechanism and the clinical growth that will be brought about by PICOHI is something to

look forward to. APJ

First published in The Prime (Internaonal journal of Aesthec and An-Ageing Medicine),

Mar/Apr 2020 USA edion

For more informaon visit vvww.clinicalpro.com.au

APJ 63






Tina Viney


industry, especially lasers and IPLs, we have seen the progressive

decline of tacle services. While those who have studied beauty

therapy have been trained in facial manual techniques, others

such as cosmec nurses and even dermal therapists, lile

aenon has oen been given to tacle techniques as part of

standard facial training.

Over the past 12 months, several reliable reports that have

surveyed consumer trends, and even through our own industry

feedback, have clearly idenfied the return in demand of tacle

services, such as massage both for face and body.

COVID-19 has promoted the need for social distancing and the

need to refrain from touching others. However, one of the primary

manifestaons of kindness involves human touch. In this arcle I

will outline why touch is important and how it can help us beer

manage stress hormones, such as our corsol levels.


Physical, non-sexual touch is oen taken for granted. However, it

not only helps us feel good, it also plays a crical role in healing.

There are numerous studies that confirm the power of touch in

supporng health, wellbeing and even our ability to heal from

physical trauma.

Many years ago, I remember reading an arcle about babies born

during World War II. Sciensts experimented on a several

orphaned babies. During that me, they observed two sets of

infants. One group of babies had all their vital needs met, but in

addion to their physical needs, they also received the comfort of

reassuring words and physical touch. The other set of babies only

received care for their daily needs. They did not receive the

benefits of kind words or physical touch. Other than having their

diapers changed and being given nutrion, these babies were le

in cribs all day without any form of communicaon. They began to

lose weight and became sickly while the babies receiving aenve

care, grew and thrived. Doctors noted the importance of physical

touch and observed the role it played in the mental, emoonal

health and development of these children.

When it comes to wound healing there have been many studies

that have provided evidence of the healing power of touch. Those

in the medical field are finding healthful benefits for paents in

the form of nonverbal communicaon such as a pat on the hand, a

gentle hug, or some form of skin-to-skin contact. In fact, the

healing power of physical touch can be measured. Doctors have

found, through laboratory tests such as MRIs, that there are

evident changes in the paerns of brain acvity during touch.

Certain types of endorphins are released, these endorphins

combat stress hormones resulng in a sense of relaxaon and


Another study involved two dogs - each had incurred a wound.

They were both fed well, and their wounds treated. However, one

dog was regularly paed and hugged, while the other was not

subjected to any physical touch. Aer several weeks, the wound

on the dog that received physical touch had totally healed, while

the other dog’s wound was almost unchanged.


To help us beer understand stress management it is helpful to

review the role of corsol. As we know, corsol is a hormone that

helps manage some basic bodily funcons. It's an important

chemical that manages blood sugar (glucose), reduces

inflammaon, and controls blood pressure, among other opons.

Corsol is oen referred to as the “stress hormone,” because it

becomes more abundant when we are faced with a stressful

situaon. It affects the heart rate, breathing paerns, and other

aspects of the body’s “fight or flight” response. However, corsol

does more than we probably realise.


Right above each kidney is a small but important gland known as

an adrenal gland. The adrenal glands produce some important

APJ 64

hormones, including adrenaline and corsol. Most cells in your

body have corsol receptors, meaning the cells absorb and use

corsol. But corsol is used differently in different parts of the


The short list of corsol’s jobs in the body include:

• Manage blood sugar (glucose) levels

• Reduce inflammaon

• Manage blood pressure

• Control metabolism

• Assist with memory formaon


The rhythm of corsol producon by the adrenal glands is also a

factor in your sleep roune. Too much corsol in the bloodstream

at night makes it harder to fall asleep. Low levels of the hormone

in the morning can make it tough to get out of bed. In fact, having

a healthy variaon of corsol levels throughout the day is

associated with beer health.

Corsol is naturally high in the morning to help perk you up, and it

decreases into the evening. The loss of this cycle, or the lack of

variaon of corsol, is what is associated with negave health

outcomes, and this has been confirmed in many studies.

A recent study found higher risks of inflammaon and immune

system problems in people who had lile variaon throughout the

day in their corsol levels. Condions such as fague, depression,

and even cancer were more likely among people whose corsol

cycles were abnormal, as well as a higher suscepbility to viruses

and infecons.

Geng a massage, a lile regular exercise each day and

establishing a consistent bedme and wake-up me are some easy

ways you can start to establish healthy corsol producon.


In addion to helping manage some of your body’s basic funcons,

corsol is linked to your stress response as well. So, what is

corsol doing when you encounter a stressful situaon?

One of the chief funcons of corsol is to prepare the body during

stressful situaons—a “fight or flight” moment. When you feel

threatened, the adrenal glands start pumping out corsol, causing

your muscles to tense and your breathing and heart rates to

increase. All of this happens faster than your brain can fully

comprehend a situaon, allowing you to, for example, jump out of

the way of an oncoming car.

If you need to flee a life-threatening situaon, rising levels of

corsol (and other hormones, such as epinephrine, also known as

adrenaline) in your bloodstream will help you escape. If you need

to stay and fight off a threat, your body’s response to the flood of

hormones will help give you strength and energy for the conflict.

Unfortunately, living in a constant state of stress and anxiety

perpetuated by uncertain mes, such as the ones that we are

currently living in, can boost corsol levels where they remain

constantly locked into overdrive. This can lead to a high risk of

chronic health condions

Studies confirm that when corsol levels remain elevated, as is the

case with so many people who are under constant stress, the

ability to reproduce can suffer greatly, making it more difficult to

conceive. However, these effects of corsol in both men and

women are reversed when stress levels go down.

It’s also possible to have too lile corsol. Each condion can be

problemac. A condion such as Addison’s disease causes a

shortage of circulang corsol. Too lile corsol can lead to

muscle weakness, fague, nausea, and pain in the abdomen.

Low corsol levels are also associated with behaviour issues. A

APJ 65

University of Chicago study of pre-adolescent boys found that low

levels of corsol in saliva may affect how they respond to stressful

situaons and even how they perceive the consequences of acng

out as a response to stress.

“Boys with consistently lower corsol levels may not be as afraid

of retribuon,” says Keith Burne, PhD, a psychology professor

with the University of Chicago and author of the study. “In many

aggressive children, the system that responds to the threat of

punishment does not react normally. They may not feel stress in

the same way and so they don’t avoid stressful situaons.”


You can be prescribed corcosteroids if you have low corsol

levels. And if you are chronically stressed, therapy and relaxaon

training, meditaon and massage may help bring down corsol

levels in your blood.

medicaon to your clients, you can introduce them to a relaxaon

massage that can further support the body when combined with

the use of a few proven essenal oils. Here are nine of the most

researched essenal oils for lowering corsol levels:

1. Lavender: When you consider the true picture of relaxaon,

the light floral aroma of lavender oen comes to mind.

Lavender not only helps to induce relaxaon it is also proven

excellent in helping to lower corsol levels. One study

measuring the elevated anxiety and corsol levels of paents

having open-heart surgery idenfied a 69% reducon in blood

corsol levels when they received an aromatherapy treatment

using lavender oil.

2. Bergamot: The bright and clean scent of bergamot essenal oil

makes it a popular opon for relaxaon. A handful of studies

Poorly controlled corsol levels are associated with mental health

disorders, including anxiety and depression, though the

significance of this relaonship is sll not clearly understood.

If you have quesons or concerns about corsol levels, or an

inability to cope with stress, it is also advisable to talk with your

doctor. Corsol can be screened with a blood test and a saliva

test. There are even patches with sensors that can measure the

corsol in persperaon. Corsol is a helpful hormone for a lot of

reasons but making sure you’re producing the right levels at the

right mes is important for your physical and mental health.


If you do not offer massage, either incorporated in your facial

treatments, or you do not offer body massage, you may wish to

rethink your treatment menu. Many research projects conducted

by the Touch Research Instute in Miami show that not only do

people feel beer aer receiving massage but when their levels of

corsol are tested, they are significantly lower in those who have

received a massage!

Personally, I have found that a gentle, nurturing massage rather

than a remedial deep ssue massage has been able to not only

lower my corsol levels, but also raise my haemoglobin levels in

my red blood cells, which is a blessing for me, as I have hereditary


Massage can play a huge role in helping your body find that state

of non-stress. This is the place where you can get the rest you

need to build your immune system, re-build cells and where your

digesve system can focus on what it needs to do.



If you wish to idenfy symptoms of high levels of corsol look for

the following symptoms:

• High blood pressure

• Flushed face

• Muscle weakness

• Increased thirst and urinaon

• Changes in mood

• Rapid weight gain

• Bruises

• Decreased sex drive

All the above symptoms can occur when your body is producing

too much corsol. While you may not be able to prescribe

have been conducted to examine the potenal bergamot oil

benefits. For those who want to learn how to lower your

corsol levels naturally, bergamot is an excellent place to

begin (please also check further informaon on bergamot on

pages 60-61. A 2015 study looked at three disnct groups of

individuals. One group received rest, the next group received

rest and water vapour, and the final group received rest, water

vapour, and bergamot essenal oil. Aer fieen minutes of

exposure to their assigned treatment, researchers took saliva

samples to measure corsol levels. They determined that

parcipants who received rest, water vapour, and bergamot

essenal oil for a short period of me had the most significant

decrease in their salivary corsol levels.

3. Neroli: Neroli, sourced from the blossoms of the bier orange

tree, is another common floral scent that is considered to

reduce stress. The research regarding how neroli essenal oil

works within the body is sll growing, but there are a number

of studies that already demonstrate its efficacy. One study

looked at the stress levels of postmenopausal women who

inhaled neroli oil for five minutes twice daily and those who

inhaled almond oil. At the conclusion of the study, the women

who received the neroli essenal oil had lower blood pressure,

improved pulse rates, lower corsol serum and improved

oestrogen concentraons.

4. Orange: Using the sweet aroma of this orange citrus fruit can

APJ 66

be a very relaxing way to lower your corsol levels. A 2012

study compared orange essenal oil to other substances

including water and tea tree essenal oil. Parcipants were

assigned to groups who inhaled one of these three substances

and then given an anxiety-producing exam. Those who

received the orange essenal oil had less subjecve tension

and greater calm through the exam. Just a few drops are

enough to see the tremendous benefits of using sweet orange

essenal oils for lowing corsol levels.

5. Cedarwood: Those who are searching for a classic essenal oil

that can help them feel grounded and calm may want to reach

for a bole of cedarwood. This balmy scent brings you straight

back to nature and can help to soothe anxious nerves. In fact,

there is even research to prove that cedarwood essenal oil

truly does calm down the body – this is one of my favourites!

Test subjects were given cedarwood essenal oil to inhale via

a face mask while researchers measured their heart rate and

blood pressure. It significantly decreased the heart rate,

systolic blood pressure and diastolic blood pressure of

parcipants in this group.

6. Ylang Ylang: Dri off into sweet slumber or unwind in the

bathtub with a few drops of this relaxing essenal oil. Ylang

ylang essenal oil has a calming effect that can easily spread

throughout your enre body. Researchers took a look at what

happens to paents who are considered to be prehypertensive

and hypertensive when exposed to an aromatherapy

treatment. Parcipants inhaled lavender, ylang-ylang, neroli,

and marjoram for 24 hours. At the end of the treatment, this

group had lower systolic blood pressure, dayme blood

pressure, and less stress.

7. Marjoram: This one is another favourite of mine. Marjoram oil

is a lile different than many of the other essenal oils on our

ranking. Most people can idenfy this oil for its herbaceous

scent instead of the heady floral aromas that signify many of

the more popular relaxing oils. Despite this major difference,

marjoram is sll a major player when it comes to reducing

corsol levels.

8. Rosemary: Rosemary is similar to marjoram in its scent profile

and is also considered to be a powerful ally for lowering

corsol. It lowers free radical damage and helps the body gain

equilibrium. While helping to lower corsol rosemary is also

known as one of the best oils to assist concentraon and


9. Clary Sage: Clary sage essenal oil is another important tool

that you can use to reduce corsol naturally. Much like many

of the other oils menoned here, inhalaon of the clary sage

oil is really all it takes to begin reaping the benefits. When you

feel like you are ready to unwind for the day, place a few drops

in your diffuser and enjoy. In a 2014 study, menopausal

women who were considered to be either normal, or to have a

depression tendency were exposed to a clary sage

aromatherapy treatment. Corsol levels decreased

significantly aer this exposure, and it was found to have an

andepressant-like effect on the women in the study.


I am sure you would agree with me that high stress and corsol

levels will remain prevalent in the months, and the years to come.

In reviewing your treatment menu, thoughully consider

introducing stress reducon strategies in your treatment opons.

They will most definitely be welcomed by your clients, and allow

you to add an extra layer of support to their wellbeing and your

overall skin treatment outcomes. APJ

APJ 67





had some amazing content with robust

educaon. These sessions are now also

available for purchase as individual

videos or as packages.

Each video runs for 30 minutes to 40

minutes with Professor Laurence Walsh’s

session running for one hour.

We have had requests from business

owners who are keen to purchase some

of the conference videos to include as

part of their training library resources.

If you wish to purchase any of the videos,

please visit the website

www.apanconf.com. You will idenfy the

booking form with the various sessions

outlined. If you wish to gain further

informaon on the learning objecves of

each lecture, please go to the PROGRAM

field at the top of the page and view all

the segment topics. Select the ones you

wish to purchase. If you wish to see the

speakers first, you can also check these


You can purchase one video, or several.

We have put together some packages,

however, if you require more, please

contact us on 07 5593 0360 or email:

info@apanetwork.com to discuss.

Alternavely, you can complete an order

form and pay directly from the

conference website: www.apanconf.com.

Just ck the ones you wish to purchase

and finalise your payment. These are

great value for staff training or for your

reference library.

1. Purchase an individual video of your

choice: Cost: $29.99

2. Purchase five videos of your choice

Cost: $24.99 each

3. Purchase a set of 10 videos of your

choice Cost: 19.99 each

APAN connues to provide you with

addional support and value. APJ




SUNDAY 17th & MONDAY 18th


Due to COVID-19 restricon in Sydney

the PCC two-day educaonal event has

changed its locaon from Sydney to

Brisbane. The event will showcase PMU,

Beauty and Business demos from leaders

in the industry. Set in two rooms, arsts

will taoo live on stage for at least one

hour or show a video presentaon of

their work. PCC is a collecon for up to

20 mini master-classes, covering topics

that our industry needs. Arsts will share

their secrets at this event so you can

improve your skills. You can get up close,

record and even bring your own machine

to taoo along with the speaker. The

event will also include networking

APJ 68

This secon presents the latest news, training dates and other

Aesthec Industry informaon

opportunies and the chance to make

friends within the industry. APJ


health had goen worse during the


• Social media has become one of the





changed consumer habits with an

increasing interest in cleansing their skin.

A global survey conducted by skincare

brand CeraVe revealed that 64% of

individuals who parcipated in the survey

revealed that skin cleansing has become

very important, and they have upgraded

their roune. The survey was conducted

online across 23 countries and achieved

over 10,100 respondents. 64% of the

people globally stated that their cleansing

roune has changed during the past 12

months. Here are some of the findings of

this survey:

• Overwhelmingly, 90% of respondents

reported that their daily life had been

impacted by changes that affected

their skin health both in posive and

negave ways.

• Two-thirds (64%) of respondents

reporng that their cleansing rounes

had significantly changed compared

to their pre-pandemic habits. They

stated that they now cleanse with

more care and more regularly.

• 19% of women said that their skin

main sources for skincare advice as

44% of respondents went online for

skincare advice more oen in the past

year (including women 55% and men


• 48% of respondents said that they

turned to press and online sources for

facial cleansing advice, making it the

first source of informaon, followed

by word-of-mouth.

• Significantly, 79% agreed that you can

end up damaging your skin if you

follow the wrong type of advice, with

67% agreeing that skincare advice

you find online is not always accurate.

• Inaccurate advice oen leads to

cleansing misconcepons which can

damage the skin barrier. Supported

by the following stascs:

- 42% of respondents only use water to

cleanse their faces.

- 69% of respondents use a mix of hot

and warm water to cleanse their faces.

- 30% of respondents think that cleansing

cannot help in maintaining their skin

barrier funcon.







changed with the COVID-19 pandemic.

Due to social isolaon, we use makeup

less oen. We pay more aenon to skin

health, and look for ways to eliminate

discoloraon, moisturise it and assure its

healthy glow. So, which skin care

ingredients were most popular in 2020

according to Google searches?

The Brish website cultbeauty.co.uk has

compiled a list of the 20 most popular

skin care ingredients of 2020 by the

largest number of Google searches –

where the first three on the list got over

500,000 each. Natural ingredients are all

the rage in 2020 and beyond:

• In the first place is vitamin C, which

turned out to be an absolute hit. Skin

care products containing vitamin C

help fight skin discoloraon, ensure

its firmness and natural glow and

inhibit ageing were the most

researched and accessed.

• The second place was taken by

renol, currently the most effecve

an-wrinkle substance. Its posion in

2021 is threatened by bakuchiol –

the natural alternave to renol,

which was considered the more

organic counterpart, useful to help

acne management, pigmentaon and

APJ 69


signs of ageing as well as for

excessive sebum secreon.

• Castor oil is ranked third. This natural

ingredient has been known for a long

me, and the interest in organic

products that boost regeneraon has

only increased during the pandemic.

Castor oil is used in home treatments

in order to promote eyebrow and

eyelash growth and restore nail

cucles. The remaining places in the

top 10 include: hyaluronic acid,

squalane, salicylic acid, benzoyl

peroxide, witch hazel, niacinamide

and ceramides. APJ

current (no-makeup) makeup trend –

Glam with a more natural twist. APJ


(+250.0%): changes the appearance

or shape of the belly buon.

• RIB REMOVAL: (+182.4%):

commonly performed on people who

want to achieve an hourglass look.

• GYNAECOMASTIA: (+174.1%): the

removal of male breast ssues or

‘man boobs’.

• POKERTOX: (+133.3%): a

combinaon of botulinum and facial

fillers specifically designed to

enhance a gambling player’s ‘poker


• COOLSCULPTING: (+125.0%): a nonsurgical

method of destroying adipose

ssue aka fat freezing.

• DIMPLEPLASTRY: (+120.0%): creates

dimples on the cheeks or chin.




comes to makeup for this winter the lost

magic of the '90s supermodel has been


The makeup trend-seers have taken

beauty looks worn by Linda Evangelista,

Cindy Crawford, and Naomi Campbell

and are bringing them to 2021 trends.

Here is how to achieve the look:

• EYES: Mae brown shadows and full

volume mascara.

• BROWS: Slightly arched with some

natural strays.

• LIPS: Deeper nudes with a slight

gloss, or a translucent red.

• SKIN: Not too mae and not too

glowy, just a nice san finish.

The new look falls right in line with the





COVID-19 has dampened consumer

interest in cosmec and plasc surgery

procedures in Australia, take a look at the

stats below. The data was analysed over

a two year period 2019-2021.


(+309.1%): the removal of cheek fat

to give the appearance of a thinner,

more contoured face


• TONGUE SPLITTING: (+90.0%): a

type of oral body modificaon that

involves spling the tongue in half

to create a ‘forked tongue’ look.

• EAR PINNING: (+84.6%): also called

otoplasty, this is performed to pin

back, or reduce the size.

• FAT GRAFTING: (+84.6%): moving a

person’s own fat cells from one part

of the body to another area. Fat

graing restores youthful contours,

making the area fuller and more

lied. APJ

Top Cosmec Procedures by Search Volume









TOTAL 861,850 1,103,100 58.9% 27.99%

lip filler 117,800 158,200 49.4% 34.30%

gynecomasa 95,400 142,900 174.1% 49.79%



127,600 138,600 22.2% 8.62%

eyebrow taoo 96,600 127,500 50.0% 31.99%

coolsculpng 85,700 106,100 125.0% 23.80%

tummy tuck 68,000 87,300 50.0% 28.38%

abiaplasty 58,800 68,100 83.3% 15.82%

breast implants 55,900 55,900 22.2% 0.00%

cheek filler 43,300 50,200 50.0% 15.94%

buccal fat


16,160 42,300 309.1% 161.76%

APJ 70

This secon presents the latest news, training dates and other

Aesthec Industry informaon

“If you can’t explain it

simply, you don’t

understand it well enough”

Albert Einstein



Online Study Units

Upskill your knowledge, grow your confidence, enhance

your results.

Mentoring Program: Shadowing Gay

An excing one-on-one mentoring program. Learn the

winning protocols to grow your reputaon and your


If you are a Nurse, Dermal Therapist or a Beauty

Therapist wanng to expand your knowledge or

returning to the industry, these training programs

are for you!


If you require to complete your supervised hours, or

your laser licence, this training is now available.

+61 418 708 455





Review quesons completed by the work shadow.

Discuss 7 Habits of Highly Successful Salon Owners

Gay’s Signature Skin Analysis – the secret weapon

Learn how this vital step can set you and your client up for

successful treatment outcomes

Skin treatment program

Prescripon of skin products

Starng point and protocols for tracking progress.

Work Shadow Gay while she performs treatments on clients


Review learning from the previous day.

Discuss 7 Habits of Highly Successful Salon Owners – what did

you see yesterday?

Work Shadow Gay while she performs treatments on clients

Lunch Provided

Lunch provided

Work Shadow Gay while she performs treatments on clients

Reflecons and check-out

Queson and answer me.

Wrien assignment

Personal development

Work Shadow Gay while she performs treatments on clients

Reflecons and check-out

Reflecon wring and learning objecves.

APJ 71








Tina Viney


can literally transform someone’s appearance the appeal to

promote and adverse what our services can deliver becomes very

tempng. However, there are rules and regulatory guidelines

about how you go about doing this and they all have to do with

the issue of “misleading” the public as to what is possible through

the services you provide.

On the 4th May the Australian Health Praconers Regulaon

Agency (AHPRA) updated its adversing guidelines for 2021. All

medical and cosmec medical procedures are governed by these

guidelines and non-compliance can result in fines.

If you are working collaboravely with a cosmec doctor or nurse

who are providing cosmec injectable services in your premises

you have-a-duty-of-care to your clients to familiarise yourself with

these rules and ensure that any services delivered under your roof

are conducon in compliance with ALL, the regulatory

requirements - that also includes the way that these services are

adversed and promoted to your clients. Please note that under

vicarious liability a client can also sue you if something goes wrong

and does not meet with their expectaons.

To protect you in this regard APAN has a special Compliance Kit

for Cosmec Injectables that outlines everything you need to

know about your obligaons and how to screen anyone who will

be providing these services in your premises. However, in this

arcle I will highlight some of the changes and requirements.


At this point you might be thinking, “I don’t work with a nurse or

doctor, so why do I need to consider the AHPRA guidelines, as I

am not a medical praconer?”

The answer to that is quite simply, that if you are providing any

services that improve someone’s appearance and presenng

before and aer photos of the treatment outcomes you deliver, you

will be compeng to some extent with the services delivered

within cosmec medicine clinics. Therefore, your clients will need

to be assured that the results you can achieve are presented

truthfully and that any before and aer photos have met with the

strictest ethical and regulatory guidelines for authencity and



If you are a non-medical praconer APAN has developed in July

2021 new industry best pracce guidelines for adversing and

‘before and aer’ photos. These guidelines support arcle 25 of

the APAN Code of Ethics - “ensure that your adversing is truthful,

honest and meets with the ethical and regulatory guidelines or

permied claims. Avoid any exaggerated claims. Your adversing

should not bring your profession into disrepute.” To this arcle we

have now added “ensure you are familiar and abide by the APAN

Adversing and Promoonal Guidelines”.

While injecng may be outside your scope of pracce, your

services and pracces must be aligned with the standards required

by cosmec medical praconers when promong treatment

expectaons and outcomes.

In brief, let us look at some of the AHPRA guidelines:


First, what is ‘adversing’? AHPRA states that their definion of

adversing includes but is not limited to all forms of verbal,

printed or electronic public communicaon that promotes a

regulated health service provider to aract a person to the

provider (praconer or business). These includes plaorms such


• Facebook and social plaorms

• Google My Business

• Forums

• Your business website

• Specialist registraons

• Before and aer images

• Gis and Incenves

These may also include:

• Television or cinema, radio

• Newspapers, flyers

APJ 72

• Billboards

• Books (if the book is

promong a parcular

regulated health service)

• Pictorial representaon

• Designs

• Office signs

As a rule, AHPRA does not

approve the use of

tesmonials in your

adversing. What that means

is that if you are promong a

parcular service, including a

tesmonial next to it, is not

permied regardless of the

plaorm you are using,

including social media. What

is permied is for a tesmony

on the professionalism of the

praconer, the level of

excellence of the services

provided and how friendly

and helpful the staff are –

such statements are

permied, but statements

that say, “my results with my laser treatment were phenomenal,

improved my pigmentaon,” etc, especially if you are promong

that treatment in your adversing.

However, on social media if a client goes into a chat group and

shares with others about their wonderful experience and results

independent of any of your adversing, that is permied.

“Adversers are not responsible for removing (or trying to have

removed) tesmonials published on plaorms that do not control

or on sites that are not adversing a regulated health service.” -



There is no-doubt that before and aer photos are viewed

regularly by consumers and industry professionals alike who are

seeking to determine the potenal benefit of a parcular

procedure. For example, if you do a Google search for “Dermal

Fillers before and aer” 16,000,000 results come up. If you search

for Before and Aers for wrinkle injecons 45,000,000 results will


As they say, “a picture is worth a thousand words”. However,

photography of ‘before and aer’ shots can also be manipulated

either intenonally (via photoshop) or accidentally, through a

different posion or a stronger light during the “aer shot”. This

would be considered misleading.

In Victoria, the Health Records Act (2001) is the most relevant

legislaon related to treatment records including ‘before and aer’

photos. This Act protects your health informaon when it is

handled by public and private sector organisaons in Victoria and

is administered by the Health Complaints Commissioner (HCC).

People need to appreciate that any personal informaon, including

photos, taken in a non-medical seng such as a non-medical salon

are also required to adhere to these high standards.

Here are some guidelines when taking photos:

AHPRA has for some me had concerns over the appropriate use

of ‘before and aer’ photos and the potenal of these photos to

mislead or even deceive consumers, and this is unethical, whether

it is a medical or simple a cosmec procedure that someone may

be invesng hundreds, or even thousands of dollars to gain the

perceived results.

The problem with photography is two-fold:

1. If the images are retouched or taking with a different lighng

the “aer” may be unrealiscally enhance.

2. The second concern is that there are several other variables

that determine the success of the end result of the procedures

e.g. age, diet, lifestyle, genecs, previous and accompanied

procedures that may have opmised the skin’s ability to

respond to the treatment.

However, within our industry ‘before and aer’ photos are

permied, however they need to be as authenc as possible.

Here are some guidelines:

• The images should be as similar as possible in content.

• The camera angle must be as similar as possible.

• The lighng must be the same, not brighter in the ‘aer shot’

blowing out lines and wrinkles.

• The posture must be idencal.

• Facial expression must be exactly the same – no smiles in the

‘before’ close up shot of the eyes showing wrinkles, while the

‘aer’ shot the face shows no creases as the subject is not


• The same background colour.

• Before and aer photos should not be accompanied with any

review by a paent about the treatment they have received, as

this is then regarded as a tesmonial, and the use of

tesmonials contravenes the Naonal Adversing regulaons.


It is also important to note that if you plan to use the face of a

client for promoonal or adversing purposes you should gain

approval first. APAN has legally wrien ‘Photography Consent’

forms that you can access from us.

The other issue is “Privacy and Confidenality”. Our PRIVACY

POLICY has been wrien specifically for our industry and includes

a cerficate for display. This document is a legally-wrien in line

with the Privacy Act outlining how your client’s personal

informaon will be collected and stored. All our resource

documents comply with legal and regulatory requirements and

many of them have been wrien by our lawyers.


The use of someone else’s before and aer photos passing them as

your work is a very common pracce amongst cosmec taooists

who are void of any ethical consideraon on how they promote

themselves. This pracce is not just a copyright infringement, it is

also unethical and misleading. If this is somebody else’s work, this

would also be considered as plagiarism - the pracce of taking

someone else's work or ideas and passing them off as one's own.

As professionals, we need to uphold industry-defined and

regulated ethical standards. There is no excuse for ignorance.

Organisaons such as APAN have been set up to ensure you are

well-informed and protected. Your membership will allow you to

gain immediate access to your essenal requirements and keep

you updated with on-going industry and regulatory changes.

Please remember that our behaviour affects not just our personal

reputaon, it also strengthens or discredits the reputaon of the

profession as a whole. It pays to be compliant. APJ

If you need further informaon or support, please feel free to

contact APAN info@apanetwork.com 07 5593 0360 or visit


APJ 73



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APJ 76


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APJ 77





Dr Giulia D’Anna

WHETHER WE LIKE IT OR NOT, our clients are always looking for

ways to look aer themselves when we cannot, or not permied.

Lockdowns have been unrelenng in some parts of Australia,

parcularly in Victoria and now New South Wales. My clients

oen ask me what they can do to look aer their skin during these

mes. So instead of bad-mouthing store-purchased devices and

products, I try to offer some construcve insight and advice to

lead my clients in the right direcon. This works especially well if

your clinic offers online support and products. Trust me, my clients

do appreciate it and your clients will too. So, here are some

common quesons I am asked and the advice I offer them. This

not only helps them to maintain their skin, it also keeps us

communicang and connected.


What do you think about at-home LED masks? Is there some

benefit to using them at home, even though the wavelengths of

the LED are weaker than clinical treatments?

LED face masks for home use will definitely add value to your

clients’ skincare regime, and their skin overall. Although not as

effecve or potent in their acon as clinical treatments, clients will

noce general brightening of the skin and improved ‘glow’.

Basically at-home devices provide a fracon of the effect you will

get in a clinic, but that has benefits too. You can apply most LED

masks many mes a week, or even more than once daily. There is

no down-me and there are virtually no risks either.

What do you see as the main benefits? And what should I look

out for when purchasing?

The great thing about LED masks when used at home is that they

have a cumulave effect. That means each me they use them,

the skin benefits accumulate. Being less effecve than a clinical

LED treatment, it takes longer and more sessions to get

appreciable result, but results are possible. When looking for

masks, there are some basics to consider. The more LEDs the

mask contains, the beer! So, if a mask boasts 50 LEDs, but

another boasts 200, go for the one that offers 200! Masks that

plug into a power point are more powerful than baery or USB

powered variees. The colours maer too! Red is great for almost

any skin and has beauful an-ageing benefits. Whereas those

that suffer from acne and breakouts should be looking for blue

LED masks. Green is calming, so a perfect match for anyone with

Rosacea or redness through the face.

Does cost maer?

Somemes the more you pay, the beer the LED mask, BUT there

are some truly expensive at-home masks that are expensive

because they are a coveted brand name. So, paying more does not

always equate to great results. I love an LED mask that covers the

whole face, so the whole face is being treated. Surrounding the

face also means that the mask can be le on without you needing

to put in any extra effort. Another bonus is that the wrap around

design allows you to get an ‘even’ saturaon of LED over your

face. Hand-held devices can be tricky as it is so easy to dri off

into different direcons and distances from the face. Please make

sure to protect the eyes during use.


What are your thoughts on the efficacy of at-home

microneedling? What are the main benefits?

At-home microneedling is a lile less easy to do at home when

compared to LED masks. The main benefit of microneedling

overall is that we are creang a controlled micro-injury to the skin

APJ 78

which in turn induces collagen deposion. The texture of your skin

and evenness in skin me generally improves too. In clinic, we use

microneedling to break up scars, reduce capillaries and improve

skin elascity. Some of these more advanced results cannot be

done at home as they require a different needle depth and

technique. But everyone benefits from this kind of treatment. The

at-home devices have very short needles, parcularly when they

are on a roller. The rollers need to swing into the skin as the roller

moves, and then swing back out of the skin. This means that the

needles need to be short to prevent unwanted trauma, which can

cause skin problems. So, the take home message from me to your

client is, microneedling is great but due to the constraints of the

roller devices, the needles are short. This makes them safer to use

at home, but their acon is more limited too.

What are some things to avoid or look out for with at-home

microneedling devices?

When purchasing an at-home device, you are best starng small.

Do not buy or use anything more than 0.25mm length needles to

begin with. Less is definitely more! I would recommend taking a

look at an up-close image of the device too. Make sure it is easy to

clean. When using skin rollers, it is not uncommon to create some

small pinpoint bleeding spots on the face. You need to be able to

wash this off easily. Definitely do no microneedle in any products

into the skin. I have seen some terrible results when well-meaning

people have used low-grade supermarket brand serums, or worsesll,

use their microneedling device before cleaning their face.

Any ps for most effecve way to use microneedling for best


Start with a double cleansed face before microneedling. This

ensures that you don’t create any kind of reacon by accidentally

injecng makeup or other products into your skin. Try to use the

roller in vercal strokes, from top to boom, rather than roll the

microneedling roller backwards and forwards. This creates a more

even experience and result and makes sure you cover your whole

face evenly. Also, avoid going over your eyelids.

Try to remember to go over your nose too. This is the most sunexposed

area on the face, so the more collagen you have in your

nose the beer. You might also get some reduced pigmentaon



What are your thoughts on at home microdermabrasion? What

are some of the main benefits and risks?

Microdermabrasion is a mechanical/manual exfoliaon of the skin.

The top layers are removed with a ‘roughened’ diamond encrusted

p, leaving the soer and newer skin exposed. It is important to

go easy on the skin though. The top layer is only a few cells deep,

so less is more. At home microdermabrasion tools are not one of

my favourites, because this kind of treatment is so technique

sensive. Do it wrong, and you can do more harm than good. I

would stay away from devices that are mechanical and rely on you

rubbing your skin with an abrasive surface. The main reason for

that is that you oen can push too hard in delicate areas, such as

around the eyes, and this either creates a graze or worse-sll, can

actually stretch the skin. I would keep these kinds of mechanical/

manual devices to use on the arms, legs, or your back.

Is it beer to use a manual exfoliaon tool, or an electronic

gadget with a vacuum?

I prefer an electronic gadget that does not rely on you using too

much pressure to get the result. The main problem with the more

manual devices like the Revlon tool, is that although it is

inexpensive, there isn’t too much reliance on the using the right

APJ 79

strokes and pressure. It is always difficult to navigate around the

face - in parcular, as we have our nose projected outwards, our

eyes sing inwards. It is so easy to put too much pressure on the

jawline and nose, as these sit a lile more projected than the


Is this something you’d only recommend once a week for

example, and only at night before applying products?

I would recommend starng slow with any new treatment. To

begin with, use the device once a month, then every second week,

and then eventually using a microdermabrasion device no more

than once a week. But beer yet, this is one probably beer le to

the skin professionals. Aer microdermabrasion, you should apply

hydrang serums, like Hyaluronic Acid, and then moisturiser. Sun

protecon is a must. Using a renol product is truly important too.

This helps to speed up your skin cycle so that your skin naturally

performs and looks beer and can cope with microdermabrasion



Do these facial massage devices really help to contour the face

and ghten sagging skin? What’s your take? Why do they (or

don’t they) work? Is this something you would recommend using

daily for best results?

This one is one I would leave to the professionals. Sagging skin is

definitely one of the most common complaints that I encounter

daily in my pracce. But to be truly effecve, we need to reach the

cells deep in the skin. Fibroblasts sit at least 2-6mm under the skin

surface and are the cells responsible for manufacturing both

collagen and hyaluronic acid. These cells need to be smulated to

boost producon.

In-clinic, we might do this with microneedling, laser,

radiofrequency and similar treatments that are capable of

penetrang deep. The at-home devices just cannot get to the cells

that produce ghter, firmer skin. So, although the idea sound

amazing, the results won’t be too groundbreaking with an at-home

device. If you already own one, you can use them every day. They

won’t harm your skin in anyway, but they won’t help a whole lot



Do these tools really give a deeper clean? Is there also some

benefit with regards to massage/ vibraon funcons? Can they

really improve firmness and tone with regular use?

I do love a great silicone face cleanser. Their gentle vibraons do

provide a deeper clean, by way of their ultrasonic cleansing effect.

I usually pop some cleanser right onto the brush, moisten my skin

with water, and then turn the silicone cleanser on and run it over

my skin. I love seeing all my makeup come off when I run it under

water. More horrifying, but also truly sasfying, is that in the

morning when I have no makeup on and I cleanse again, so many

dead skin cells come off. My skin literally loves the depth of clean.

It is important to use gentle pressure, and make sure you also

cleanse your neck. So many people forget to look aer their neck,

but you will be shocked with how much grime comes off your skin


the skin clinic has not always been possible. What I have seen is

devices being purchased off the internet and being used at home.

The microneedling electronic devices can harbour bacteria, bloodborne

infecons and other nases in the moving parts. It is

important that you stay away from cheap devices like this. One

paent I saw recently had a needle from a cheap eBay device

break or dislodge into her skin. That was a tricky situaon to fix as

it needed surgical intervenon.

Skin penetraon devices like this should be listed on the TGA

device register to ensure that they are safe. In clinic, all our

equipment devices meet this standard to ensure that the skin and

people are kept safe. If purchasing a device over the internet, ask

the seller for the ARTG number which will show you the TGA

lisng. This is important to make sure the device does not cause

you any harm.


Should I invest in a facial shaving device and what do they do?

Everyone loves flawless skin and makeup. You can buy simple

“face shavers” from chemists and similar outlets. These simple

lile razors make it easy to achieve that. Essenally you use them

in a downward direcon on your face (don’t go against the grain)

to remove the fine peach-fuzz (vellus hair). They are designed for

single use, but depending upon your face, somemes using one

for just half of your face is best so you don’t drag against your skin

or cut yourself. If using one, use short strokes, and manoeuvre

around your nose and chin gentle to avoid cung yourself. Avoid

using acve skincare ingredients aer for at least 72 hours, so that

you don't experience any redness or sensivity, and cover up with


In-clinic dermaplaning removes the vellus fine peach fuzz, but also

the treatment removes the top layers of the skin in a gentle and

controlled way, using a scalpel blade. The therapist runs the blade

smoothly and gentle over the face in short lile strokes. This

provides the ulmate in skin glow. Face shaving doesn’t quite

provide the same benefits as in-clinic dermaplaning (which is

definitely beer le to the professionals as there is a scalpel

involved!), but you will feel smooth and glow aerwards. Best yet,

is that the hair doesn’t grow back thicker, as some people believe,

and you are unlikely to get any in-grown hair, since the hair is

being cut gently and at the right angle if you move in a downward



These are becoming popular. Should I invest in one and what do

they really do?

What I like about these, is that without thinking about it you are

performing facial massage. Facial massage is good for lymphac

drainage and keeping your skin invigorated. Although many jade

rollers claim to be an-ageing, they help mostly with skin

circulaon and the cooling effect of the roller is great for aninflammaon

and calming effects too. APJ

When purchasing one, look for an easy to clean design. Stay away

from bristle brushes as they are almost impossible to clean. And

when you clean your skin, you want to start with a clean brush, so

that you don’t inadvertently introduce more bacteria, or mould

that might be building up on your brush.


eBay microneedling devices – what are your thoughts?

Some people love to create an at-home treatment at home. I do

understand that COVID-19 closures have meant that geng to

APJ 80


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inflammatory condions as well as having

anmicrobial properes and many more

health benefits, which are 8-10 mes

more potent than the curcumin molecule.

highly beneficial properes for calming and soothing the skin, our unique balancing oil

contains a high concentraon of hemp seed oil.

Although many clients may feel they should not be pung oil on their skin, which is

already congested, we know that providing high quality, balanced and non-comedogenic

oil is key to reducing the cycle of overproducon of sebum in the skin.

Hemp seed oil is one of the most beneficial and balanced oils, especially for those with

acne-prone skin. Hemp seed oil also helps hydrate the skin, all without clogging the pores.

Oen over-cleansing or drying the skin is a contribung factor to the cycle of excess oil

producon and breakouts. Therefore, we must be gentle with acne-prone skin and

replenish the skin with the appropriate oils.

We also know how great tea tree oil can be for acne-prone skin due to its natural

anbacterial acvity. However, this needs to be applied in a reasonable, diluted

concentraon, as tea tree oil can also be drying to the skin if applied in at a high

concentraon. Hence, our Dermatonics Clearskin® Balancing Face oil contains a suitable

concentraon to help address the bacteria in the skin appropriately, harnessing its

benefits without drying the skin.

One of the newest ingredients to the Dermatonics® range is in our new face oil – baobab

oil. What is unique about this ingredient is that is has really great regenerave capacies,

and we need that for assisng the skin to regenerate aer the damage that acne causes.

Even beer, it contains a high concentraon of natural vitamin C as well as natural fay

acids and minerals. We have truly harnessed the best and purest of natures’ oils to create

this unique and targeted face oil for your clients struggling with their breakouts.

For further informaon please contact Donna Marcal from DERMATONICS 0430 582

508 E: donna@sentryca.com.au

In addion to other natural acves with

APJ 81




An interview with Maya Ercegovac

IN THE PREVIOUS ISSUE OF APJ we presented an arcle on

electrolysis and why it is gaining popularity. To connue our

invesgaon in this modality we interviewed Maya Ercegovac.

Maya is the Australian trainer for the internaonal electrolysis

course developed by the renowned Canadian company Dectro

who deliver both electrolysis and aesthec qualificaons.



Electrolysis id shaping into a vastly and more excing modality

than in the past. This has been necessitated by the new advanced

in modern machines that have extensive capabilies and services

that can be achieved. The new technology works with higher

frequencies, faster speed and can allow us to achieve beer

results, more quickly and with a much more efficient pain

threshold and in some instance, almost zero pain, something that

was not possible with the old machines. This has contributed to a

rise in popularity of this procedure, because ulmately what

people are looking for are results, but also comfort during the

delivery of the treatment.

Essenally, the new devices can deliver three treatments –

electrolysis, thermolysis and the blend method that combines

high-frequency (thermolysis plus electrolysis). The new devices

offer different speeds and frequencies allowing for quicker, beer

results and with potenally less skin damage than were possible

with past technologies.

However, educaon and training has now become more advanced,

as the new technology can not only offer hair removal but can also

offer galvanic facials to enhance skin-penetraon of acves, as

well as cataphoresis that will allow skin to be disinfected,

balanced, and supported against harmful microbial acvity.

Addionally, it can achieve thermal coagulaon for lesion removal,

vascular capillary removal, milia extracon and skintag removal

with greater ease.

The educaon that is now available is quite impressive and at a

higher level as a stand-alone qualificaon. This is essenal in

order to achieve the level of treatment possibilies with safety

and efficacy. With inadequate training, we are seeing

praconers struggle with poor technique and poor execuon of

their hair removal that oen contribute to scarring and skin

damage. It is therefore important to gain the correct level of

educaon as this will contribute to a successful career and

excellent client demand and business growth.



The treatment possibilies of electrolysis are now vastly different

than in the past. Electrolysis today doesn’t just offer hair removal

capabilies, but also offers skin treatment modalies. Starng

however, with hair, it can offer permanent hair removal, instead of

hair reducon, which is the case with IPL or laser. Also, the

challenges we experience with the darker Fitzpatrick skin types,

say IV and V, (which are a problem with IPL or laser), are not a

concern with electrolysis as electrolysis targets the hair bulb

chemically and not through heat, as with the light-based approach.

Therefore, electrolysis is substanally more efficient and with

greater capabilies than IPL or laser hair reducon.

Addionally, the new technologies can also perform facial

treatment, such as addressing pigmentaon and vascular lesions,

as well as the removal of skin tags which can be achieved with

ease. Electrolysis is also a far more comfortable method of hair

removal with the new technologies, and white hair can be easily

and comfortably removed, as well as permanently.



That’s a good queson. In the past electrologists worked on basic

hair removal. However, today, we have the knowledge, training,

and ability to deliver a wider range of treatment soluons,

parcularly with individuals with medical condions. These

require a systemac approach and more advanced skills in how we

deliver the treatment. We are also required to have greater

aenon to detail, as well as greater depth of knowledge and

understanding of how certain medical condions may impact the

way we execute the service. With new advances in technology, we

are now able to perform treatments with less discomfort and pain

and with faster and more successful treatment outcomes. We are

also able to successfully overcome many challenging problems

that we were faced in the past. The good news is that the new

technology is giving us the ability to overcome several past

contraindicaons. I believe electrolysis can be quite addicve,

therefore many choose to specialise in it as their chosen

profession as the perimeters of treatment possibilies are vastly

greater than in the past.



For the training that we deliver we require 300 hours with 180

hours covered in class and the remaining can be completed

APJ 82

through online study. The course we offer is comprehensive and

has 15 units of study. The reason for this duraon is so that the

correct skills can be competently deliver. This happens gradually.

The technique is very detailed, and it is important to determine

how far you need to go into the dermis to avoid scarring and

permanent skin damage, which we oen see with insufficient

training. Also, there are skills that need to be developed for the

various treatment opons and for the various skin condions and

locaons where hair needs to be removed.



There are several as this procedure is not a one-off treatment, it

requires a treatment plan. It is therefore crical that a

comprehensive consultaon process is undertaken that includes

an in-depth dialogue between the praconer and the client/

paent to determine any potenal contraindicaons, a review of

their medical history, and any medicaon they are on. The

praconer will need to carefully check any underlying condions

to determine safety perimeters and ascertain aims and potenal

results. As a rule, the consultaon process will usually require 30-

45 minutes to complete, as it is the foundaon on which the

treatment plan will be determined. Other issues that will need to

be discussed will include the duraon of the treatment plan, the

frequency of the treatment, the budget, and the expected




There are several key aributes that are needed for a good

electrologist these include:

1. Good eyesight and a strong aenon to detail.

2. Ability for good wrist dexterity.

3. As this procedure requires a great deal of concentraon a

praconer will need to have good health and have a strong

and stable nerves.

4. Caring and paent disposion and a willingness to be

compassionate in helping others.

5. While it is helpful to have a beauty therapy of nursing

background some of the more comprehensive educaonal

program, such as the internaonal training we offer through

Dectro cover all the necessary anatomy and physiology,

bringing someone to the correct level of knowledge and skill

to deliver these procedures.

6. A laser or IPL praconer who wishes to help their clients with

both permanency of hair removal, or for the removal of vellus

hair or while hair with no pigment.



While in the past electrolysis focused predominantly on simple

hair removal, the new technological advances are expanding the

capabilies and scope of services they can provide to include

much more. For example, here are some of the services you can

provide with the new technology:

• Removal of skintags

• Removal of vascular lesions

• Permanent eyebrow shaping

• Underarm hair removal

• Bikini line

• White hair that cannot be removed with light-based

applicaons such as IPL or laser

• Polycysc Ovarian Syndrome condions of excessive hair

• Transgender hair removal treatment

• Certain cancers such as in the case of throat cancer.

Another consideraon is that during challenging economic mes

electrolysis offers a more cost-effecve way of providing efficient

hair removal, as well as addional services without the financial

layout that is needed to purchase light-based technologies, not to

menon their maintenance costs. This together with their ability to

deliver more comfortable treatment execuon is contribung to

the constant growth of electrolysis as a valuable and favorable

modality on several levels. APJ

For further informaon you can contact MAYA ERCEGOVAC

holoacademy@icloud.com or 0410 303 809.

APJ 83







RESILIENCE especially when we need to

learn to live through long-term challenges

such as what we are all currently

experiencing. But what is resilience and

how can we develop it and master it

during difficult mes?

When you think of the characteriscs of

resilience you usually think of one’s ability

to bounce back from difficult mes and

challenges. In fact, the origin of the word

means “the act of rebounding” and is

derived from ‘resiliens’ which means ‘to

recoil or rebound’. While some people

have a seemingly natural capacity to

bounce back from adversity, others do

not. But resilience can be learned.

Resilience will serve you well throughout

your life. Once mastered, you can always

draw upon your past experiences, both

physical and emoonal to manage and

overcome difficult mes. In fact, learning

to be resilient can also help to make you

stronger; with each challenge you

encounter, you can develop new skills

and new ways of dealing with life.

Knowing you are resilient may help you

develop the strength to pursue your life

to the fullest without fear.

Along with resilience comes flexibility and

adaptability. The more possibilies you

envision, especially during difficult mes

and challenges, the more you allow

yourself to overcome and expand as a


Here are some ways to help you

establish the right mindset in order to

improve and strengthen your resilience:

Embrace change: This should almost

always at the top of your list. If you can

accept that nothing stays the same, that

there will always be flux, then you are

starng with a leg up. All of us will be

challenged many mes in life by

obstacles, both from within and without.

In many instances, we can overcome

what tries to stop us or thwart us by one

means or another. One way to strengthen

our resilience is to accept and come to

terms with the fact that change will be

required of us during difficult mes and

to be mentally and emoonally prepared

for it. So, when the need for change

arises, we can face it with determinaon

and confidence instead of allowing it to

defeat us.

Do not dwell on negave thinking: This

is much easier to say than do, but it’s true

that if we can gain a handle on our

thoughts, especially our negave ones,

we can actually take some posive

acon. Not only do we think negave

thoughts that keep us worried and

anxious, but we fear the negave

outcome. Once we realise that negave

thinking has its roots in fear it helps us

understand that this mindset will only

lead us to hopelessness, and this will not

allow us to find a soluon. Fear makes us

focus only on the worst that can happen

and that will increase our stress and wear

us down.

So how do we break this cycle? We shi

our thinking to something posive,

something to look forward to, something

that is calming, or at least neutral. How

do we do that? We go for a walk, we

exercise, we meditate, we pray and we

engage in something creave. In other

words, we change our “state” and give

our brains a break from repeve

negave thinking. At the very least it’s

very empowering to know we can do this

if we want to, that our thoughts are

within our control.

APJ 84

Business & Legislaon, New Tools and Research Outcome

Know thyself: It was the Greek

philosopher Socrates that said: “To know

thyself is the beginning of wisdom”.

Take an inventory of yourself so that you

gain a clear understanding of your

strengths and your weaknesses. Then

fully acknowledge your strengths and

accomplishments and never take them for

granted. This is who you are and you can

expect that they will stand you in good

stead through difficules and challenges.

When you believe that “you can” you

increase your ability to rise to the

occasion, to deal with and resolve your

conflicts and crisis.

Create Goals: The reason that goals are

important is that they keep you on track

to move forward. Without goals to aim

for you can become vague and

complacent and this will open the

doorway to self-doubt and despondency.

If you are feeling a lile down, but you

have a goal to focus on, it can help you

apply yourself and snap out of your fears

and uncertaines.

Develop Problem-Solving Skills: Research

suggests that people who are able

to come up with soluons to a problem

are beer able to cope with problems

than those who cannot. Whenever you

encounter a new challenge, make a quick

list of some of the potenal ways you

could solve the problem. Experiment with

different strategies and focus on

developing a way to work through

common problems. By exercising your

problem-solving skills on a regular basis,

you will be beer prepared to cope when

a serious challenge emerges.

Set goals high and monitor progress

instead of specific results:

Focus on being purposeful, rather than

just being producve. Set goals for

yourself that are achievable but can push

you just that lile extra. With the current

unpredictability we are facing, when

faced with disrupon that you have no

control over, take the me to go back and

acknowledge your progress. What have

you achieved since you have set your

goals? Even if you are experiencing

hindrances, focus on what you HAVE

managed to accomplish and allow that to

encourage you that you are moving

forward rather focusing on the target goal

you set for yourself.








How many are baling anxiety? Are any

of them depressed? If these quesons

seem difficult to answer, it’s because they

are. It’s not always apparent when

someone is coping with a mental health

issue. Unlike a cold or a broken leg, the

symptoms of stress, anxiety, depression,

and other mental illnesses can be hidden

or mistakenly explained away.

Why workplace mental health maers

Many businesses are so focused on client

sasfacon, but fall short when it comes

to employee wellness. While it’s great

that most businesses support physical

health and wellbeing, this is only half of

the equaon. Our brains are just as

crucial to our wellbeing, especially

considering the detrimental effects

mental illness can have on physical

health, such as increased blood pressure,

hormonal imbalances and heightened risk

of cancer.

When an employee is suffering, so does

their work. Depression has become the

leading cause of disability across the

globe, and it’s esmated that 172 million

workdays are lost due to depression each

year. Stress, anxiety, and other mental

health issues compound this problem,

leaving people less engaged, focused, and


How you can help your staff?

Luckily, there are several ways you can

support your employees’ mental wellbeing.

Here are some simple examples:

1. Speak candidly about mental health.

The first step to beang the sgma is

to stop treang mental illness as

taboo. Whether it’s an arcle you

read, a program you have watched, or

a personal experience you had,

talking about it openly and without

shame will help others realise they

aren’t alone. Create an environment

where your staff feel safe to talk to

you if they are struggling in this area.

2. Keep the conversaon going.

Workplace culture must be nurtured,

which means you can’t just menon

mental health once and expect it to

catch on. Find opportunies to

incorporate strategies to help your

employees recognise that you care.

The message you need to put across

is that the business cares about the

wellbeing of their staff and it is

determined to provide appropriate

support structures to prevent mental

health impacng them in a way that

will be detrimental to their health and


3. Include all levels of staff. Culture

starts at the top, so it’s important that

you lead the way. Your employees

won’t believe that you genuinely care

about their wellbeing unless you

demonstrate the importance of

mental health.

4. Pay aenon and be ready to help. If

you do noce an employee behaving

differently, for example, irritability or

low mood, don’t hesitate to ask them

if everything is alright. Remind them

that you’re there to help.

5. Facilitate access to these resources.

Similar to the previous point, your

staff won’t get much use out of the

informaon if it’s difficult for them to

find. Eliminate barriers to access by

APJ 85


providing the content in a variety of

formats (audio, video, wrien, etc),

and minimise the number of steps it

takes for them to find it.

6. Priorise confidenality and

anonymity. Even though mental

health might be normalised in your

workplace, some people might sll

feel uncomfortable discussing it,

parcularly if they struggle with

addicon, trauma, or suicidal

thoughts. Reassure your staff that

their privacy is your top concern, and

that their use of mental health

resources will never be monitored or


7. Design a mentally healthy work

space. It’s important for your

employees to feel energised and

uplied by their work environment.

Research has shown producvity,

engagement, and overall wellness

increase when people feel

comfortable in workspaces that

feature natural lighng, plants, and

other posive features.

8. Focus on the posive. Mental illness

is a serious issue, but it can sll be

addressed in a way that makes people

feel understood and appreciated, as

this will give them hope. Always

remember to leave your employees

feeling that they can trust to reach

out to you for help if they need it.

If you have a mental health program in

place, check if it is working for you.

COVID-19 has created the need for many

changes including a program that can

support you and your staff to deal with

the uncertainty the current environment

is imposing on all of us, both financially

and mentally.

To ensure businesses gain evidencebased

support in this area APAN is

launching the MENTAL HEALTH &


program has been designed specifically

for our industry to provide tools that will

support the business owner in

introducing a clinically-proven strategic

wellness plan to help prevent mental

health issues in the workplace, as well as

help the business to connue to operate

producvely. To learn more, see page

106 for full details. APJ






We spend a lot of me at work. Be it at

our workplace or home do you know that

we spend up to a third of our lives


The threat of COVID-19 has brought to

light the crical role that immunity plays

in supporng our health whether we are

vaccinated or not. The health of our

immune system will ulmately determine

how well our bodies will respond to

stress, viruses or infecons. The fact is

that the stronger our immune system is,

the greater the chance we have at

reducing the risk of disease and infecon.

Regardless, I am certain we can all agree

that none of us like the feeling of being


Workplace disrupon and the impact on

the economy

The pandemic has hit the economy very

hard. We have seen how once booming

businesses, both in our industry and in

other sectors, have been brought to their

knees, sadly, some even going into

administraon. This crisis has been so

bad that the World Bank esmates the

global economy will shrink by 5.2% - the

deepest recession since the Second

World War.

The importance of good nutrion and

good hygiene in keeping immunity at its


While every business has implemented

mandatory infecon control measures to

protect against the spread of COVID-19,

it is also prudent and responsible to

support yourself, your staff and your

clients with strategically posioned

informaon on how to opmise and keep

their immune system at its peak through

appropriate nutrion and healthy lifestyle


A nutrious diet, one that is rich in

micronutrients, vitamins such as omega-

3s, vitamin C, vitamin D3, probiocs and

zinc has been scienfically proven to

keep our immunity funconing at its best.

Implemenng simple strategies is not

only preventave, it also reduces the risk,

severity and duraon of an infecon. In

addion, having adequate micronutrients

in our diets also increases energy and

reduces bodily fague, enhances

cognive funcon and the development

of bone and muscle strength.

Taking the lead in advocang workforce


Advocacy for good nutrion and personal

hygiene progams should rank highly on

the agendas of business leaders.

Within our industry several major

cosmec companies are now introducing

nutrional supplements and whole food

powders that are carefully formulated to

opmise not just skin health, but also to

support wellbeing and immunity.

Companies such as Regul8 distributed by

DMK provide an amazing nutrional

system to opmise gut health, supported

by anoxidants to help enhance skin

health and immunity.

Advanced Nutrion introduced to

Australia by MargiFox Distributors offer

an amazing selecon of evidence-based

nutrional supplements to support and

enhance skin treatment results while also

boosng wellbeing.

VITA-SOL has developed four highly pure

wholefood powders consisng of organic

fruit and vegetables to produce mulacve

concentrates, gently extracted and

tested for toxic heavy metals. The

collecon provides pure nutrional drinks

and organic herbal teas that deliver

cleansing, bioavailable anoxidants, and

APJ 86

Business & Legislaon, New Tools and Research Outcome

other nutrients to support gut health,

liver, joints, bones, hair, skin and nails.

Other companies, such as ENTITY have

introduced Radianix, a sublingual

glutathione, known as the master

anoxidant and Restorix containing

niconamide enhanced with resveratrol

and quercen. This formula supports

cellular health by increasing NAD levels

and acvang an-ageing molecules

known as sirtuins that protect against

telomere shortening. These are all

scienfically-validated formulaons

known for their purity and efficacy.

With the introducon of amazing highquality

nutrional products, which not

only provide support for the skin, but also

opmise immunity and energy levels, you

now can include another ‘iron in the fire’

for beer protecon for your clients and

staff. These opons offer a great

opportunity to introduce a new level of

care and immune support to all those you

care about.

Addionally, supporng a healthy

workforce is a win-win for both

employees and employers alike.

Employees benefit from improved work

morale, while employers will benefit from

improved producvity that comes from a

happier and healthier workforce.





WEEKS, we have been

contacted by numerous

business owners with regards

to concerns with the growing

frequency of lockdowns,

which are creang

uncertainty for their future.

These concerns are coming

from various States –

predominantly from NSW,

Victoria, Queensland and

even Western Australia and

South Australia.

We have also spoken to our

solicitors who are confirming

that the unrest is now

resulng into several

organisaons introducing


peons pushing for change. As I

discussed last week through a video our

own peon through change.org is

focusing on the urgent need for

alternave soluons to lockdowns. Our

lawyers also confirmed that there is

currently a class acon scheduled to go

to the High Court regarding several issue

of concern with the way COVID-19 is

being handled and the mandates that are


Whether you support the vaccinaon

iniave or not, one area we can all agree

on is that an alternave soluon is

needed as lockdowns are destroying

businesses and are highly detrimental to

the economy. While, when first

introduced most business owners were

willing to comply, their connued and

repeated frequency is creang panic and

anxiety for many business owners. As a

result, our members are urging us to step

up and strongly advocate on their behalf.


COVID-19 is now mutang with new

variants and the future is looking more

and more uncertain. While businesses are

given the choice to recommend or

mandate their staff to be vaccinated the

new Bill introduced recently by NSW

(Public Health Amendment (Vaccinaon

Compensaon) Bill 2021) is creang a

great deal of concern. Here is just one

leer we have received from a business


“As CEO of APAN, I believe the aached

proposed amendment to current NSW

legislaon should be of concern.

The NSW government appears to be

abrogang liability to workers for

mandatory vaccinaon. In conjuncon with

their (NSW Govt) pledge that doctors’

liability is waived, it appears that businesses

will bear the lifeme financial liability to

workers for any deleterious effects under

this proposed legislaon. There needs to be

more transparency and discussion on this

topic because it opens a Pandora’s Box of

problems, not the least of which is a client

suing if they become infected by a worker

who is unvaccinated.

Your comments would be welcome”. L.M-

W., Director of Clinical Aesthecs.



There is currently a movement happening

for change and for a more workable

approach to safety, as many businesses

are faced with insurmountable

challenges. While APAN is here to

support you through various iniaves,

we must also face the reality that change

is needed. We wish to alert you to

several peons that you may wish to

invesgate and support. The me has

come to unite our voices as the

connuaon of the current approaches

will destroy businesses on so many levels.

Here are just a few:


At the me of wring this report a

peon EN2855 request the Rights for

Cizen to Use Alternave Means of

Protecon was signed by over 54,000.

This peon closed on 12th August.

The Peon

The peon addressed that millions of

Australians are extremely concerned

about the Federal Government's push to

force hasly approved and poorly tested

novel vaccines on the populaon, when

adequate long term safety data is

unavailable. It is also of great concern

that many notable doctors and medical

researchers reporng successful

treatment using cheap, safe generic anviral

drugs appear to be ignored by the

government and TGA, due to these

generic drugs being of lile commercial

value and not sponsored by

pharmaceucal companies for approval

by the TGA

APJ 87


Peon Request

We therefore ask the House to formally

request that the TGA assess the use of

Ivermecn and Hydroxychloroquine, in

the recommended dosages and

combinaon with complimentary drugs,

based on the peer reviewed studies and

data, and the recommendaon of notable

Australian medical researchers, such as

Professor Thomas Borody and Professor

Robert Clancy.



PETITION 3589: Problems with PCR

Tesng Results.

Another peon to the Queensland

Legislave Council that will close on the

12 September.

The Peon:

Queensland residents draws to the

aenon of the House that there is

overwhelming evidence that the Reverse

Transcripon Polymerase Chain Reacon

(RT-PCR) test (PCR test) to detect SARS-

CoV-2 is seriously flawed and not fit for

purpose. (check the link for full details


The Request:

Your peoners, request the House to

call upon the Chief Health Officer, to

provide the people of Queensland within

30 days:

a. the cycle threshold of the PCR test in


b. the irrefutable evidence used to

jusfy the use of PCR test and its


c. the future of the PCR test in

Queensland, given the CDC





Serene Teffaha is the CEO of Advocate

Me. She has 15 years of experience as a

praccing lawyer who has developed

several templates for people who wish to

reference scienfic papers in their

peoning. These include Masking,

COVID-19 Vaccines supporng research

papers, Mandang COVID-19 and Flu

Vaccinaons, RT-PCR Tesng, COVID-19

Vaccinaon declinaon leer, QR Code

Template. We also believe that she is

acvely pursuing a further class acon

with the High Courts.

There are numerous other peons

circulang, addionally APAN will feature

one on change.org available on

www.apanetwork.com. It is

disappoinng that we are forced to take

such desperate measures, but the future

of many businesses depend on change.





As much as you try to deliver flawless

services and maintain great client

relaonships, you're bound to run into

some difficult client situaons – it's part

of doing business, and in parcular since

COVID-19 with stress levels soaring,

emoons and anger can be easily

challenged, despite your good intenons.

Whether some aspect of your job

management cycle doesn't go according

to plan or your client is just having a bad

day – it's important that you are prepared

to manage angry, frustrated, or emoonal


In this arcle we outline seven strategies

to help you manage and diffuse

challenging situaons. Keep them in your

back pocket so you are equipped to turn

around a potenally negave

outcome. They may appear simple, but

they work.


This is the Number 1 rule to

remember when dealing with a

challenging client. Stay calm, and

never let your own feelings spiral out

of control. Responding to your client

emoonally or angrily is only going to

escalate the situaon. If you feel

tense take a few deep breaths,

keeping a slow and steady rhythm. It’s

ok to wait a moment and collect

yourself rather than responding


Remember not to take your client's

behaviour as a personal offense. They

might be under pressure through

personal problems at home, or maybe

they're just having a horrible day.

Whatever the reason, try not to be

offended - you never know their

exact situaon.


When someone is firing aggressively

or with emove language at you, it’s

easy to roll your eyes and dismiss

them as crazy. But disregarding a

client’s feelings will only inflame them

more. It’s crucial that you

acknowledge their emoons -

whether or not they’re jusfied - so

your client feels like they’ve been

truly heard. The following statements

can help:

a. “I understand this situaon is

frustrang for you.”

b. “I know this is a sensive topic, and

that you’re worried about your


c. “I understand this has caused you real

stress and concern.”

Oen just acknowledging their

feelings will be enough to calm them



If it gets to the point where you client

loses control and is yelling insults or

APJ 88

Business & Legislaon, New Tools and Research Outcome

failing to manage their emoons, you

need to have paence. Wait it out. If

you aempt to argue with them in

this state no logic is going to break

through. Try to let your client get their

feelings off their chest without

interrupng. Don’t take the maer

personally. Avoid telling them to calm

down - this can feel extremely

patronising, and will oen have the

opposite effect. And above all do not

scold them, it will only inflame the


If things have really escalated politely

suggest taking a 10-minute breather.

Ask if they would a like a glass of

water or coffee, or if they’d prefer to

reconvene on another day. Try not to

judge them for things said in the heat

of the moment.


While it’s important to placate an

angry or emoonal client, you should

also take their comments on board.

Do they have a valid reason to be so

distressed? Why do they feel let

down by your business? Were your

inial promises or communicaons

misleading? Listen to the message

rather than the tone of voice.

Acve listening means really stopping

and digesng the words your client

says. If you’re simply imagining your

rebual while they talk, that’s not

acve listening. Here are some ps:

a. Put aside distracng thoughts

b. Don’t mentally formulate your

rebual while they’re speaking

c. Never interrupt

d. Make eye contact

e. Ask quesons for clarificaon

f. Repeat their points to show


g. Keep an open posture (no closed


By really listening to your client’s

problems, you may discover ways to

improve your service, business

processes and communicaon going



Try to find some common ground

early in the conversaon. If you only

focus on the point of disagreement,

your client will feel like they’re

banging their head against a brick

wall. Here are some statements that

may be helpful:

a. “I think we can agree that the results

from this experience for you did not

go as expected.”

b. “I know we are both eager to find a

mutually beneficial soluon to this.”

c. “We both want to get the best results

from for you. Let’s make a plan that

works for everyone.”

d. “I know we’re both keen to get these

delays resolved as fast as possible.”

Establishing that you have things in

common can help generate feelings of

empathy and understanding. You

don’t want to be at loggerheads for

the whole conversaon.


When tensions are running high it’s

easy to get off topic, or end up

discussing tangenal details.

Anecdotes or argumentave

statements can quickly veer the

meeng off course. If appropriate

make sure you have on hand any

consultaon or consent agreement

that you may have and that they have

signed. Having these facts at hand

will help you establish control of the


Use the paperwork to back up your

posion, the formal contract if

applicable. If they ignore these

wrien points calmly repeat them

unl they sink in. Make it clear that

you will not budge on factual



Always conclude the meeng with a

concrete plan for moving forward,

and email a summary of this to the

client. This means the meeng

outcome can’t be disputed. Include

meframes and specifics. This is also

important in the event that the dispute

may result in a ligaon case. At this

point, whether the client has threatened

to take legal acon or not please nofy

your insurance company and follow their


If you didn’t manage to reach a mutually

agreeable soluon, make sure you set a

date for a follow-up meeng. Remember

that it’s in your own interest to deal with

unhappy clients as fast as possible. The

longer the disagreement drags on, the

more likely the client will complain

publicly or leave negave reviews of your




Following these steps will help to

resolve most conflicts. But the best

approach is to avoid difficult clients in

the first place!

Have you ever experienced a bad gut

feeling when meeng a new client?

Your stomach forms a lile knot when

their name pops up in your inbox. We

all find it hard to say no to potenal

new business, but oen it’s beer to

act on your intuion. The most

difficult clients aren’t worth it

because of the profits they’ll cost you

in the long run.

Here are a couple of red flags to

watch out for when meeng new


a. Asking for a discount. A client trying

to wrangle down your standard rates

is usually a bad sign. It means they

don’t respect the true value of your

work and may try to squeeze freebies

out of you later on.

b. Reluctance to pay a deposit. If you’ve

explained your payment process but

they’re reluctant or fidgety about

paying a deposit, this is a red flag for

obvious reasons. You’re likely to end

up chasing payment, down the line.

Conflict resoluon does not need to be a

painful process. With a few wise

communicaon skills you can avoid

taking things personally and staying

focused on resolving the issue at hand

rather than allowing yourself to get

emoonal and upset. APJ

APJ 89



something that is scienfically validated and is now used

extensively throughout various disciplines. Contemporary

studies in neuroscience are idenfying health and lifestyle

principles that can allow us to beer understand both selfcare,

as well as see them incorporated in integrave pracces.

Addionally, there are ancient cultures that have based their

healing pracces on a philosophy of mind/body connecon, albeit

that they achieve this through their own pathways that differ from

Western thought yet aim at similar objecves of restoring health

and wellbeing. One of these is Ayurveda. In modern mes we are

seeing Ayurvedic principles entering the beauty, health, and

wellness industry, through the use of various treatment protocols,

as well as skincare formulaons.

In this arcle Danielle Hughes presents some of the basic

principles of Ayurvedic Dermatology. It is important to note that if

you wish to incorporate any of these principles in your pracce

that you seek appropriate training to ensure both safety and


Translated, Ayurveda means “knowledge of life” and refers to a

tradional system of medicine, believed to have been passed from

gods to sages, and in turn doctors. Originang in India, it is

believed Ayurveda dates back to the Indus Valley civilisaon. In

fact, Ayurveda is most likely the only form of prehistoric medicine

sll pracced today. Most recently, the field of Ayurvedic

Dermatology has evolved with pracces being integrated into

modern skin management strategies.


The eight branches of Ayurvedic medicine are idenfied in the


1. General adult medicine

2. Paediatrics

3. Surgery

Ayurvedic Dermatology

The wisdom of the past providing

solutions for the present

Danielle Hughes

4. Ophthalmology

5. Psychology

6. Toxicology

7. Rejuvenaon

8. Reproducve

These eight systems relate specifically to the five elements of the

human body: earth, water, fire, air, and space (or ether).

Combinaons of these five elements are bio-energies and it is

these bio-energies that govern bodily funcon. Also known as

tridoshas, the three bio-energies that may populate our body are:

1. Vata – space and air

2. Pia – fire and water

3. Kapha – water and earth

According to Ayurvedic medicine bio-energies impact our physical

and emoonal being and each of us has a unique balance of these

energies. Some of us are predominant in one, whilst others may be

a combinaon. Ulmately, dis-ease, is described as the end point

of living outside the harmony of your unique energec balance. As

an industry, we have relavely recently come to have a heightened

understanding of the impact that psychological stress bears on the

skin, a connecon known as the brain-skin axis. Yet, centuries ago,

we see this was already discussed and pracced in medical

treatments. Now, it’s understandable that some of you reading

APJ 90

may think this is just too alternate or ‘woo woo’ but let’s note

there are some recently published reviews of these pracces. For

example, ‘Advanced in Integrave Dermatology’ published their

2019 textbook with an enre chapter dedicated to Ayurvedic



Ayurvedic pracce asserts each of our cells possess their own vital

energy, known as ojas. This energy allows our cells to repair and

rejuvenate to correct imbalances that disrupt homeostasis.

Ayurveda has described the skin as ‘twag sara’ in the Charaka, one

of the three notable Ayurvedic texts. Twag sara idenfies key

qualies that skin should be - smooth, so, lustrous and a sign of

good fortune, happiness, and intelligence. The seven layers of skin

described correspond to the seven ssue systems of the body –

plasma, blood, muscle, bone, fat, marrow, and semen. Therefore,

Ayurveda can idenfy that when there is an imbalance in blood for

example, there is a corresponding response that manifests on the




Ayurveda pracces characterise certain skin symptoms can be

aributed to predominant bio-energies of an individual.

• Vata dominance resembles thin, brile and cracked skin; hair

may be sparse and break easily and there is a decreased

sebum secreon; the colon (large intesne) is the main seat of

vata energy.

• Pia dominance may see increased sebum producon, warm

and shiny skin, and risk of photosensivity; excess pita energy

may cause balding; nails may be flexible; the small intesne,

skin and liver represent the main seat of pia energy.

• Kapha dominance may appear as a waterlogged skin with

surface thickness, oil flow and an overall cool thermostat; the

stomach and lungs are the main seat of kapha energy.

• Viligo – aggravated pia

• Psoriasis – vata and kapha dominance/imbalance

Age-management has also been described in Ayurvedic texts as

the act of ‘arresng’ the ageing process through maintaining a

balance between the tridoshas (bio-energies) and undertaking

daily rituals such as the intake of an-ageing herbs, exercise, and




Disclaimer: Some ayurvedic pracces hold significant risk for an

individual and must only be pracced aer a thorough consultaon

with a medical praconer.

There are four pracces that support cleansing and rejuvenaon

of the individuals disrupted bio-energies and may therefore yield a

posive outcome on resultant skin condions.

• Cleansing

Eliminaon of toxins through purging and emesis or voming,

and bloodleng. The inial management of disease starts


• Palliaon

Prescripve treatment with herbs and minerals, diet, and

lifestyle, supplemenng where needed, fasng, yoga,

breathing and meditaon are then introduced. The focus

during palliaon is to improve digeson, eliminate toxic waste,

and rebalance energies. Ginger is widely used.

• Rejuvenaon and (iv.) Psychotherapy

During these pracces, an individual must reconnect their

mind, body and soul. This is achieved by introducing roune

exercise, consistent sleep-wake cycle (up at sunrise), daily

stress management techniques, healthy diet supported by

herbal medicine and oils and sexual acvity.



In conclusion, Ayurveda has existed long

before modern medical pracce – deeply

rooted in certain civilisaons and cultural

beliefs. Advances in dermatology are

poinng to an integrave approach –

combining pharmaceucal with ‘alternave’

methods that have yielded success since

ancient mes. In fact, within the beauty and

dermal arena, we are seeing such an

emphasis now on treatments that support

mindfulness, breathing, lifestyle, diet, and

overall wellbeing as a holisc approach to

treang common skin disorders such as

acne and dermas.

According to ‘Advanced in Integrave Dermatology’, the following

skin condions, commonly seen in beauty and dermal pracce, can

relate to imbalance of one or more bio-energies:

• Dermas – can be categorised based on the dominang

energy and characteriscs will vary from cold, clammy

dermas (kapha) to red, inflamed, and swollen dermas


• Acne – predominantly pia, but all three bio-energies are


With all forms of medicine, tradional or

modern, there may be risks and adverse

effects. As an individual, it is your

responsibility to access the informaon and

make an informed decision about

treatment. As a professional, a referral would be needed to safely

ascertain an individual’s suitability for certain Ayurvedic


Ulmately, the pracce of Ayurveda relates on a connectedness

within and between each system of our body, harmony between

these systems and our inner energy and homeostasis or balance –

and this is something we can all agree, holds significant merit for

invesgaon in successfully managing long term skin health. APJ

APJ 91




Which botanicals make the

most promising skincare




words organic and botanically based applied mainly to things we

ate, like supplements, swallowed in pill or powder form.

When it came to skincare, botanicals were not highly regarded as

due to their molecular size they were only considered to provide

superficial benefits in barrier funcon, protecng only the

epidermis from external environmental damages.

Another issue of concern, parcularly with organic skincare, was

that oen they were not rigorously formulated with sufficient

preservaves and therefore were subject to deterioraon of their

acves, as well as the potenal contaminaon of the final product

especially aer the product was opened and used. However, with

the advancement of biotechnology, and research studies validang

ingredient bioacvity, botanical formulaons are experience a

breakthrough in both safety and efficacy rivalling many synthec


In terms of consumer percepon, it makes sense that given the

inordinate energy we spend veng what goes into our bodies,

shouldn’t we devote the same scruny to what goes onto the-skin

as well?


According to several global consumer studies these are boom

mes for botanical beauty and plant-based personal care. And as

suppliers refine their selecon of botanical ingredients, the

benefits both to consumers and to brands promise only to grow.

“Natural, sustainable, and plant-based beauty is taking a major

stake-hold in the market today,” declares Paula Simpson,

nutricosmecs formulator and founder, Nutribloom Consulng

(New York and Toronto. “Plant-based and botanical ingredients are

a natural fit within this category.”

Of course, botanical ingredients have been standard in personal

care since before it was even a category. However, many of the

past limitaons are now overcome. The difference is that science

is finally catching up to the folklore, elucidang how whole-plant

or isolated phytochemical acves work, either systemically or

topically for natural beauty. From large group categories, such as

carotenoids and polyphenols-with their effects on oxidave stress,

inflammaon, epigenecs, or even the microbiome, to isolated

acves that target a specific mechanism of acon, botanicals offer

a multude of benefits and a variety of claims that both

nutricosmec and natural skincare products can capture.


Even beer, contemporary extracon and processing methods are

improving ingredient quality, stability, and effecveness, while

granng consumers the transparency on the issues of safety that

they prize. These advances are giving botanical beauty ingredients

more than just a cosmec role, as many purified ingredients are

how being included in ingesble products, supporng system

health and beauty from within.

Another trend we are seeing is the shi toward using botanicals as

performance ingredients because they are now proven to deliver

beer benefits that can match some tradional synthec

ingredients. This advance happened as technology evolved to

process them into stronger acves and to measure performance,

thereby demonstrang efficacy.

Contemporary purificaon and standardisaon methods for

natural ingredients also ensure the acve ingredients’ stability as

well as their performance consistency, which is important with a

botanical that can vary from season to season.


Advances in biotechnology are now able to beer understand how

botanical ingredients act on the skin, hair and nails-enabling

brands to fine-tune formulaons to target benefits. In most cases,

a botanical’s mechanism of acon produces a physical effect, such

as moisturising, or enhancing the skin’s barrier funcon. But at a

deeper level, the bioacve phytocompounds exert effects on cell

signalling and at the genec level to modify inflammaon, protein

synthesis, cell growth and division-rejuvenaon-and, ulmately,

cell longevity.

It is encouraging to see that some nutricosmec beauty botanicals

are demonstrang impressive results in helping inhibit formaon

of advanced glycaon end products (AGEs), which research

implicates in exacerbang myriad age-related skin deterioraon

APJ 92

including those that weaken skin. Meanwhile, other ingredients

squash free-radical and singlet-oxygen-induced lipid peroxidaon

and prevent the fragmentaon and degradaon of collagen and

elasn fibres.

Addionally, a variety of botanical extracts are now proven to

effecvely work on pigmentaon providing an-ageing properes

by inhibing tyrosinase enzyme and melanin producon, as well as

protect cells from harmful UV radiaon. There are several

botanicals with proven anoxidant protecon, improve hydraon

and promote synthesis of fibrous proteins in the dermis.


It is a well-established fact that visible signs of ageing like wrinkles

and sagging, are ulmately impacted by both extrinsic and intrinsic

factors. There is therefore a growing trend towards a targeted

team approach using both topical applicaon and ingested

nutrients to support and opmum results through a synergisc

approached, compared to using either topical or internal alone.

The objecve of internally ingested supplements or nutrional

powers is to support overall health and nourish the blood to

deliver enriched benefits to the skin. However, how well nutrients

reach the skin internally is not an easy thing to determine, as there

are digesve and other consideraons that may need to be

overcome. For this reason, ingesng beauty botanicals can deliver

results much slower than topically applied products on the skin.

Regardless, whether through a healthy diet or through topicals, it

is now a well-established fact that beauful skin can only be

achieve through a healthy skin.

This consumer trend is experiencing a growth in mul-botanical

formulaons that deliver more therapeuc aspects, such as

calming inflammaon, resolving itchiness and skin irritaon, hair

loss and of course lasng moisturisaon is always essenal.

Whatever perks consumers seek, they’ll likely keep looking for

them in the garden as the hunger for naturally derived ingredients

will connue to grow, while they will also connue to expect

product that will work to resolve their needs. With today’s

botanicals, they can have both.


We have already covered several in this issue of APJ – one being

Edelweiss. But let’s have a quick look at a few others:

Fruit-Derived Polysaccharides

We know that fruit extracts, such as apple, pineapple, peach,

apricot, jujube, and goji berry, have high levels of pecn-based

polysaccharides that are good at locking in moisture because of

their enormous, complex honeycomb molecular structure. These

compounds are water-based and leave no oily sheen, and can

replace synthecs like carboxymethylcellulose and carbomer, too,

he adds. Another good example is from Japanese Elm bark, which

has been compared to hyaluronic acid in terms of efficacy.

However, to ensure peak efficacy, water extracon of fruit-derived

polysaccharides is best, if the products made via ethanolic

extracon to maximise polysaccharide content.

Cannabidiol (CBD)

Cannabidiol (CBD), the non-psychoacve cannabinoid found in

hemp and marijuana, has been subjected to numerous case

studies discovering how this botanical ingredient can “codeswitch,”

so to speak for both topical and injectable use.

Even though topical use of CBD is mainly marketed for

transdermal absorpon into systemic circulaon for pain relief and

calming acons, there are growing uses for local topical benefits,

like reducing acne inflammaon and addressing other

inflammatory skin condions, such as psoriasis and possibly

general skin inflammaon. Brands can also pair CBD with

agonists-like those derived from black pepper, clove, and

cinnamon essenal oils-to support cannabinoid receptors and

enhance CBD absorpon and acvity. Indeed, studies connue to

support CBD as a clinically proven botanical with a mul-benefit

profile and I believe we will see it connually grow its presence for

both its topical and internal use.

Succinic Acid

This amazing acve is derived from amber and is considered a

game changer for acne. It works by controlling the microbiome. In

a nutshell, succinic acid helps to clear up blemishes by supporng

your skin's natural peeling mechanisms to get rid of dead skin cells

and unclog pores. It also helps to reduce the skin's sebaceous

secreon making it a match made in heaven for oily and acneprone

skin types.


The popularity of bakuchiol is constantly on the rise. A highly

acknowledge natural form of vitamin A, with extensive papers to

support its ability to provide similar benefits to renol, but without

the risks of irritaons.

Andrographis paniculata

Praconers of both Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine have turned

to the South and Southeast Asian herb Andrographis paniculata for

centuries, prizing its anbacterial, anfungal, even its adaptogenic

benefits. Its most pronounced and unique an-ageing effects, with

evidence of a clinically proven mechanism of acon. Topical

applicaon of the extract appeared in a study to increase

epidermal stem cell proliferaon and boost type-1 collagen

producon in normal human fibroblasts. The researchers found

that eight weeks of treatment improved skin hydraon, dermal

density, wrinkling, and sagging, leading them to suggest that A.

paniculata is a promising anaging agent.

Artocarpus Lacucha

What could possibly be beer than resveratrol, the polyphenol

credited with everything from the “French Paradox” to fighng

oxidaon? If the research is to be believed, the answer may be its

cousin oxyresveratrol, derived from the dried heartwood of the

monkey fruit tree (Artocarpus lacucha).

One study found the compound to be 150 mes stronger than

resveratrol-and 32 mes stronger than kojic acid in its ability to

lighten skin and potenally even out skin tone. Another study

reinforced the compound’s superior anoxidant acvity, inhibion

of the tyrosinase enzyme, and capacity to protect against UV

radiaon. It is also known to reduce the formaon of AGEs and

the crosslinking of collagen.

Curcuma longa

Botanicals are remarkably rich sources of compounds that inhibit

the melanin-synthesising enzyme tyrosinase-making them key

ingredients in formulaons that aim to lighten skin tone. A fing

example comes from turmeric root (Curcuma longa), which is the

source of the tetrahydrocurcumin. This acve inhibits tyrosinase

powerfully enough to slow melanogenesis and is more effecve

than kojic acid, and vitamin C as a natural depigmenng agent. A

randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled study involving 50

human subjects found a 0.25% cream preparaon of the

ingredient to be a safe and effecve alternave to a standard 4%

hydroquinone cream for topical depigmenng.


While the world is moving more and more into high-tech soluons

for absolutely everything, when it comes to skincare, it would

seem that the treasures of nature have sll much to offer, as they

connue to be the most promising and in demand. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

APJ 93





Tina Viney


TATTOOING are ever-growing popular procedures. However,

while they have certain similaries, they are also hugely different

with a very different consumer profile. Meanwhile there is a real

concern that both body art taoo inks and cosmec taoo (PMU)

pigments are currently unregulated in any Australian jurisdicon.

On-going invesgaons into ink safety are idenfying high risk

inks and pigments, raising concerns by Australian regulators. Since

2019 an invesgaon has been under way to idenfy hazardous

and carcinogenic substances for the purpose of restricng their


Throughout this process, APAN has been communicang updates

to the industry through our various plaorms, inving

stakeholders to comment and provide feedback.

In May 2021 we put forward to the government recommendaons

for how the proposed regulaons could be implemented to

achieve the safety objecves with the least industry disrupon.

These were opposed by certain taoo interest groups because of

potenal commercial restricons. I have therefore been asked to

provide an updated report on what happened and where the

maer currently stands, which I will present here.


The issue of safety for cosmec and body art procedures has led

to connued invesgaon into the safety of certain inks used in

taooing and PMU, especially as some fall into the category of

hazardous industrial chemicals (e.g., as used in photocopier toner

and car paint). As a result of the growth popularity for these

procedures, the issue of purity and safety of pigments have been

at mes overlooked in the interest of beer results and reduced


The European Union introduced in December 2020

comprehensive uniform regulaons across all 27 countries, having

previously passed resoluons on ink safety that only some

member countries adopted into regulaons (2003, 2008).

In Australia, on-going concerns on the issue of pigments and

taoo ink safety was insgated by the Australian Industrial

Chemical Introducon Scheme (AICIS).

For those who have not been updated, on 1 July 2020 AICIS

transioned from the Naonal Industrial Chemicals Noficaon

and Assessment Scheme (NICNAS) as the responsible body to

oversee safety issues regarding chemicals including pigments and

inks used for taoos and PMU. In August 2017 NICNAS

published a report on the potenal risks of certain taoo inks for

the purpose of restricng their use through a regulatory iniave.

Subsequently, the Queensland Health, Environmental Hazards

Unit was appointed to invesgate the toxicity levels of various

taoo inks as there was evidence that some are carcinogenic and

should be removed from pigments and inks.

APAN was invited to be part of this working group and contribute

to this process. As it was a technical undertaking, we appointed

Robert McGowan to provide expert contribuon to this process,

as he possesses both the academic and technical skills in chemical

safety. This process connued for two years, with a brief pause

due to COVID-19 restricons.


In invesgang the various concerns here is what we idenfied:

The composion of body art inks and cosmec taoo pigments

have changed rapidly in the last 10 to 15 years, and they are now

more similar than different. The days of pigments being only based

on iron oxides are long gone. Taoo inks have evolved with the

removal of toxic metals, such as lead and mercury, but now

contain other toxins have been idenfied. All are referred to as

“inks” for simplicity hereaer. As no inks are made in Australia,

everything used here is imported, typically from Europe, the USA

or China.

APJ 94

Inks oen contain ingredients and impuries that are classified as

known or possible carcinogenic, mutagenic or reprotoxic

substances. Some contain known allergens or skin irritants.

Meanwhile, there are three main drivers for manufacturers to

include hazardous substances. More vibrant colours (body art

taoos), beer pigment retenon (cosmec taoos) and lower

costs. Ingredients (the colours) are quite oen the same as found

in photocopier toner, car paint, waterproofing, plascs etc., with

no risk assessment having been undertaken.


Europe has had guidelines in place for ingredients and purity

standards since 2003, with some member countries adopng

them into regulaon. In December 2020, the EU adopted detailed

uniform regulaons across all member countries aer extensive

research and consultaon by the European Chemicals Agency

(ECHA) with compliance required by January 2022.


While currently unregulated, if Australia establishes similar

regulaons in line with European guidelines, then imports to

Australia from Europe will almost certainly be compliant. US

manufacturers selling into Europe will also need to comply. Some

US manufacturers already label inks as “Not for sale in Europe”.

Without any Australian regulaons, inks containing potenally

hazardous or toxic ingredients and impuries will connue to

enter Australia, parcularly from the US and China. Chinese inks

are a serious issue. Brands and labels are commonly ‘fake’, being

(illegal) copies of European or US brands, but with unknown

ingredients. Many Australian suppliers have taken to imporng

Chinese products with their own brand labels (“private labelling”).

This is highly profitable, but the ingredients are unknown.

These issues will connue unless Australia chooses to implement

regulatory safety standards. While we know that skin irritants and

allergens tend to manifest relavely quickly, however, the effects

of carcinogens may take up to 20 years to manifest, perhaps as a

comorbidity. In this context the recent trend to complex organic

chemical colours (e.g., azo dyes) is a serious concern. In is also

worth nong that ink ingredients in many cases do not comply

with the Australian Poisons Standard.


Another concern that was idenfied through our invesgaons

was the issue that laser taoo removal poses with special risks.

The concerns for those doing taoo removal arise from the

release of the same materials into plume generated by the laser

pulses used to fragment. One must recognise that chemical byproducts,

which are not present in the inial ink, may be formed

during laser taoo removal treatments. Such vapours will pass

through exisng surgical masks and surgical respirators, even

though these will stop very small solid parcles.

With taoo removal, laser radiaon superheats the ink parcles in

the skin to shaer them, but also causes major chemical changes,

with the creaon of carcinogenic amines, which is a serious risk.

Some of the EU restricons are based on potenal laser treatment

by-products. This parcular concern is also important to cosmec

doctors as well as laser praconers who while they may not be

performing taoo or PMU procedures, they are regularly

approached for taoo removal, which is considered a major

growth industry. Australian stascs indicate that one in three

individuals who have received a taoo will wish to remove it at

some stage in their life, while the latest figures state that

approximately 25% of Australian have a taoo, with some having

mulple taoos.


Several comprehensive studies have reported a rise in the

incidence of taoo-associated skin malignancies including posttaoo

melanoma, basal cell carcinoma (BCC), and squamous cell

carcinoma (SCC). (Please contact me if you require a copy of the

scienfic references as there are too many to include here).

Among cases of taoo associated skin cancers, black, blue and red

APJ 95

taoo inks have been parcularly worrisome in terms of their

carcinogenic potenal.

Compared with older cases, reports indicate that more recent

paents who develop skin cancers on taoos are younger and

have a shorter delay since the taoo applicaon. It has been

suggested that new compounds with potenal carcinogens

reported in recent inks might be responsible for the development

of skin cancers.

According to the Cancer Council of Australia, several carcinogens

that have been found in taoo inks have been associated with

cancers elsewhere in the body, such as the liver or bladder. Hence

the issue is just not around cancers that develop immediately

around the site of the taoo.


On 27 August 2019 Queensland Health (QH) visited APAN and

held a briefing where the proposed implicaons for body art and

cosmec taoo pigment/ink regulaon was discussed and the

need to submit a report in me for when the latest Medicines and

Poisons Bill would go before state parliament.

Queensland Health explained that the Departmental Standards –

Taoo Inks would be made pursuant to secon 233 of Medicines

and Poisons Act 2019 by the Chief Execuve of Queensland

Health, that would establish procedures and requirements of use

of products. The standard would also prescribe the requirements

for a Compliant Analysis Cerficate (CAC) under secon 48A of the

Act. In essence, once the regulaon was introduced anyone using

taoo inks or PMU pigments would need to be able to present a

Compliant Analysis Cerficate that their inks or pigments comply

with the restricons and do not contain the idenfied hazardous

inks or pigments.

APAN advised Queensland Health of various logisc, cost and

me-frame issues around their inial proposals. One or more

similar briefings were held with the body art industry. Queensland

Health indicated it was working with the naonal industrial

chemicals’ regulator AICIS, with the expectaon that other states

and territories would follow Queensland’s lead on regulaon.

Since then, the latest Queensland Medicines and Poisons Act was

passed on 17 September 2019. Cosmec taoo industry

representaves were briefed on the proposed Queensland

regulaons at an APAN conference on 23 September 2019.

A working group was convened by Queensland Health involving

body art and cosmec taoo industry representaves, with APAN

represented. The first meeng of the working group was held on 1

November 2019. Topics included the work of the AICIS on ink

risks and safety, that some inks contain banned and restricted

substances in the Australian Poisons Standard, and that the

Queensland Health Minister had agreed on controls being


The second meeng was held on 11 December 2019. Proposal for

regulaons to be implemented March 2020. It was determined

that the regulaons would be based on a combinaon of the

Australian Poisons Standard (Schedule 10), the 2008 European

Union guidelines/regulaon, the work of the AICIS, and a

Queensland Health risk assessment.

On the 9 July 2020, Queensland Health advises APAN-19 that

due to COVID the delayed schedule for implementaon is for

public consultaon commencing January 2021 and

implementaon 1 May 2021.

On the 14 December 2020 the European Union passes

Commission Regulaon 2020/2081 “concerning the Registraon,

Evaluaon, Authorisaon and Restricon of Chemicals (REACH) as

regards taoo inks or PMU. This applies to all 27 EU member


11 March 2021 – Queensland Health advised it would proceed

with regulaon, with public consultaon in April and

implementaon September 2021.

On 25 March 2021 the Debt Reducon and Savings Bill (DRSB)

was introduced to Queensland Parliament including provisions for

checking ink ingredients and impurity using a Compliant Analysis

Cerficate (CAC), with penales for selling or using inks that do

not have a CAC. The DRSB provisions would be effecvely an

amendment to the Medicines and Poisons Act 2019, which

contained no provisions.

At the third meeng of Queensland Health working group on 12

May 2021, Queensland Health confirmed the basis of regulaons

(as above with EU 2020 update) and how CAC will work.

Compliance will be required by September 2021. However, the

body art industry representaves who were present raised

objecons and were very hosle against the need for compliance

as they believed there was no evidence of unsafe taoo inks and

such a regulaon will send their industry out of business.

As a result, between April and May 2021intense lobbying was

conducted by the Australian Taoo Guild and others to stop

regulaon of inks. On 26 May 2021, I received a call from the

Queensland Health Minister’s office confirming the Minister’s was

commitment to ensure appropriate safety measures were

introduced with regards to taoo inks and pigments, however, at

this point of me the Debt Reducon and Savings Bill (DRSB)

would pass with taoo ink provisions withdrawn at this me.

Despite this outcome many individuals and organisaons within

the industry reached out to offer their support. Several industry

organisaons, such as the Australian Society of Dermal Clinicians,

the Australian College of Health and Wellness, academics such as

Professor Laurence Walsh, Dr Eddy Roos and several other

organisaons contacted the Queensland Health Minister

presenng validated scienfic evidence of toxicity and known

carcinogens of certain inks including polycyclic aromac

hydrocarbons that are an ongoing health concern and the urgent

need for them to be removed.


APAN’s posion is that we have a duty-of-care for both the safety

of consumers, as well as those that work as PMU praconers, or

may be required to remove taoos that may contain heavy metals

and carcinogenic substance. It has been confirmed to us by the

Health Minister’s office that the maer has just been deferred

pending further invesgaons. I am pleased to report that on 26

August, Robert McGowan, will be joining me and Jonty Bush, who

is a Member of Queensland Legislave Assembly and a great

supporter of our industry, at a meeng with a senior advisor from

the Health Minister’s office, to discuss the next step.

Regulaons that relate to health and safety are always a very

complicated process that require a great deal of technical

knowledge and skill. They also require endless paence,

determinaon and tenacity, as well as an incredible amount of

work. It is a long and arduous process with no financial support.

At this me, I would like to acknowledge the excellent work that

Robert McGowan has contributed to this process, while also

enduring unwarranted aacks. What we both try to remember is

that this is not a polical issue and we refuse to be dragged into it

in that regard. Our intenons and commitment are purely about

ensuring a safer industry and our recommendaons are strictly

based on scienfic evidence. What we aim to ensure is an

outcome that will best protect our members, the public and the

future of our industry as a safe and responsible one. APJ

APJ 96



The NSW Health Minister Brad Hazzard

has issued an update to the Poisons and

Therapeuc Goods Amendment (Cosmec

User) Regulaon 2021 which has been

published and commences 1st September


The new laws that apply to administering

cosmec medicines. Amendments to the

Poisons and Therapeuc Goods Regulaon

2008 will come into effect from 1

September 2021 to improve the safety of

the use of cosmec medicine in NSW.

The regulaon will set addional

requirements relang to the

administraon, storage and record keeping

of medicines commonly used for cosmec

purposes, such as an-wrinkle injecons

and dermal fillers.

The new regulaons will require that not

just the nurse but also the business retain

comprehensive records of the paent. If

you are operang a salon or clinic that

does not include a doctor to supervise

these procedures, it is important that you

adhere to regulatory requirements for

which you will also be liable under

vicarious liability for referring clients/

paents to the nurse or doctor.

If you are not aware of your obligaons

APAN can help. We have developed a

Standards and Regulaons Pack for

businesses that offer injectable services.



The new regulaon will:

• Prohibit a person other than an

authorised praconer, or a nurse

acng under the direcon of a medical

praconer or nurse praconer, from

administering cosmec medicines (an

authorised praconer includes a

medical praconer, nurse praconer

or denst)

• Require a medical praconer or nurse

praconer to personally review the

paent (including via audio-visual link)

before issuing a direcon to administer

cosmec medicines

• A wrien direcon has effect for the

period specified in the direcon, not

exceeding six months from the date

the medical praconer or nurse

praconer personally reviewed the


• If the cosmec medicine is

administered by a nurse, will require

records of the direcon to be made

and kept by the medical praconer or

other authorised praconer

• If the cosmec medicine is administered by a nurse, required records of the

administraon will need to be made and kept by the nurse administering on the

direcon of a medical praconer or nurse praconer

• Set storage requirements on the occupier of the premises where cosmec medicines

are stored

• Require businesses that provide services using cosmec medicines to keep records

made by the medical praconer or other authorised praconer, and by the nurse

administering on the direcon of a medical praconer or nurse praconer

• Require businesses that provide services using cosmec medicines to have

appropriate risk management policies and procedures in place to protect the health

and safety of paents; appropriate equipment for use in a paent medical emergency;

and to ensure that nurses are adequately trained for paent medical emergencies

• Require businesses that provide services using cosmec medicines to ensure that the

regulaons are complied with.


A breach of the regulaon is an offence with a maximum penalty of between $5,500 to

$22,000 and/or imprisonment for 6 months for an individual, and between $27,500 and

$110,000 for a body corporate.

These restricons do not apply where the administraon is undertaken by an authorised

praconer themselves or by an employee in a hospital acng on an authorised

praconer’s direcon.


• botulinum toxins

• calcium hydroxylapate

• collagen

• deoxycholic acid

• hyaluronic acid and its polymers

• polyacrylamide

• polycaprolactone

• polylacc acid


Currently cosmec nurses are concerned that some of these restricons may be

excessive. One such concern is that the amendment will reclassify the currently S4 drugs

used in cosmec medicine, including hyaluronic acid and botulinum toxin, to become

S4(b). This will potenally restrict the ability of nurses to inject without a doctor on

site. Remote or Skype consultaons will no longer be allowed under the proposed


As a result, there is a Change.org peon circulang that aims to oppose the amendment,

supporng that Cosmec Nurses that operate safely, diligently and within regulatory

pracces should not be restricted. We understand that the peon has been supported

with over 7,000 signatures in just one week since it was launched.

While APAN supports regulaons, we also recognise that over-regulang can be

detrimental to a qualified praconer. Many nurses, operate within non-medical clinics

and salons that do not have a resident doctor. We believe that if a nurse has appropriate

qualificaons and operates under medical supervision, this can be achieved without a

doctor having to be physically present. If you are a nurse, we recommend that you

consider signing this peon. APAN will also appeal to the NSW Government regarding

this proposed amendment, and we will keep you posted on developments.

Contact us info@apanetwork.com or phone 07 5503 0360 and we can assist you.


APJ 97







A panel of American dermatologists and

plasc surgeons led by Michael Gold has

developed an algorithm for periprocedure

measures for facial laser and

energy devices treatment.

The algorithm has four secons

addressing prevenon, pre-procedure,

during the procedure, and postprocedure

measures. It provides a great

tool to support an opmal treatment

outcome providing physicians with

guidance to choose the best pre/postprocedure

criteria for their paents.

Prevenon is about issues the client

needs to be aware of, such as adequate

sun protecon, oral anviral prophylaxis,

and post-inflammatory

hyperpigmentaon suppression.

Pre-Procedure emphasises pre-screening

clients' importance and effecve

consultaon detailing complete medical

and skin history to rule out potenal risks

of adverse effects.

Interesngly, it suggests recording why

the client wants such treatment and

complete informaon for informed


Intra-Procedure relates to adherence to

anmicrobial stewardship processes and

skin cleanliness - Isopropyl alcohol is not

recommended for irritancy and perhaps,

more importantly, flammable. In-depth

knowledge of the technology and

parameters used.



informaon on

adverse events and

the difference

between these and


outcomes, such as

erythema, oedema,

crusng, along with

wound healing

detailed advice, all

customised for the


I agree with

anything designed

to support opmal


outcomes, which

this algorithm does.

Gold, M.,

Andriessen, A.,

Goldberg, D.,

Grover, K., Hu, S., Lorenc, Z., Mandy, S., &

Vega, J. (2021).

Algorithm for Pre-/Post-Procedure

Measures for Facial Laser and Energy

Devices Treatment.

Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 20(1).

(Suppl) s3-11

Adverse effects frequently are due to

APJ 98

Research and Scienfic Scienfic New Developments

In every issue of the journal, Terry Everi Everi our scienfic scienfic educator, conveys a few items of scienfic scienfic interest. In italics, are

his thoughts on the subject maer maer of the research study.

incorrect paent selecon, technology, skin

preparaon, lack of anmicrobial

stewardship and lack of adequate home

care instrucon and compliance.

While this algorithm is primarily for more

invasive laser treatment, it can be used for

all laser treatments to support opmal

treatment outcomes addressing prevenon,

pre-procedure, during the procedure, and

post-procedure measures, so oen lacking.


cell factor (SCF) expression, a growth

factor of mast cells, in the human nasal


You can access the study for all the

biochemistry involved. There are lots of

how CRH induces the mast cells to

'degranulate', releasing the contents, thus

causing the inflammatory process.

It appears that CRH has a dual role:

short-term proinflammatory acon (mast

Human Nasal Mucosa. Internaonal

Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2 (5), 2773

DOI: 10.3390/ijms22052773

CRH is the most proximal, key regulator of

the central hypothalamic–pituitary–adrenal

(HPA) stress response axis, which ulmately

controls the producon and secreon of

glucocorcoids in the adrenal gland.

Mast cells have a vital sennel funcon and






It is known that psychological stress

exacerbates mast cell (MC) dependent

inflammaon, and this study gives an

indicaon of how this occurs, at least for

nasal allergy.

The significant stress mediang

neurohormone, corcotropin-releasing

hormone (CRH), acts primarily as a potent

MC secretagogue; CRH induces MC


By introducing CRH to a nasal polyp

organ culture, researchers saw a

significant increase in the number of mast

cells, a smulaon of MC degranulaon

and proliferaon, and an increase of stem

cell degranulaon) and a lasng

immunoinhibitory funcon (smulaon of

local corsol synthesis by keranocytes).

Yamanaka-Takaichi, M., Mizukami, Y.,

Sugawara, K., Sunami, K., Teranishi, Y.,

Kira, Y., Paus, R., & Tsuruta, D. (2021).

Stress and Nasal Allergy: Corcotropin-

Releasing Hormone Smulates Mast Cell

Degranulaon and Proliferaon in

are involved in the pathobiology of various

skin condions such as atopic dermas,

psoriasis, and alopecia areata, all

exacerbated by stress. Not surprising, given

human peripheral ssues also express

funconal HPA equivalents, including CRH,

adrenocorcotropic hormone, and corsol,

and provide negave feedback regulaon.

We also know that CRH operates on

mulple levels in the

skin, inducing the

differenaon of


keranocytes while

in the dermis helps

proliferaon of

dermal fibroblasts

and melanocytes

and produces


cytokines. APJ

APJ 99





In a small yet excing qualitave study

from the USA, parcipants were shown

two sunscreen products and asked

quesons regarding looking for acve

ingredients on a sunscreen label, the

importance of acve ingredients in their

decision to buy and recall of any acve

ingredients the labels shown.

The mean age of the 47 parcipants (32

female and 15 male) was 42.8 years, with

85% having a bachelor's or graduate


13 (28%) stated that sunscreen

ingredients influenced their sunscreen

selecon, yet only 5 (11%) said it was the

most crucial informaon. 34 (72%) stated

that the sun protecon factor rang was

essenal informaon.

10 (21%) reported typically looking at

acve ingredients when choosing a

sunscreen; however, only 5 (11%)

parcipants recalled any of the acve

ingredients aer viewing the sunscreen


While acves in sun protecon were

important to many, most had no idea

what the acves were or could recall

them aer looking at labels indicang

that the acves are a low priority for this

group of consumers.

Previous studies found cosmec elegance

was the most posive feature, followed

by product performance.

Tribby, C., Julian, A., & Perna, F. (2021),

Perceived Usefulness and Recall of

Sunscreen Label Informaon by

Consumers. Journal of the American

Medical Associaon Dermatology,

Published Online: March 24, 2021.


The acve ingredients give the SPF and the

product's essenal funcon, yet the

ingredients themselves are not a primary

factor in their decision-making.The same

can be said for the Australian consumer,

which shows the need for consistent

educaon by skincare professionals as to

the performance rather than the elegance of

sun protecon. APJ




A joint research team from Osaka and

Keio University's in Japan and the

University of California San Diego found

that Streptococcus pyogenes (S.

pyogenes), a species of bacteria that can

cause severe illness if it invades the

human body, can survive on the skin

using arginine as a source of nutrion.

Not only can this bacterial organism

cause skin infecons, but it can also

cause life-threatening illnesses, such as

sepsis and toxic shock.

S. pyogenes generally do not survive well

on the skin. It has been unknown how it

can cause such havoc on the skin, and it

appears we now know why.

It was previously established that some

bacteria break down the amino acid

arginine via a biochemical pathway

named the arginine deaminase (ADI)

pathway. This study researchers show

that this pathway upregulates genes

associated with the virulence of S.

pyogenes, such as those that produce the

bacterial toxins.

In the skin, arginine from stratum

corneum-derived filaggrin was an

essenal substrate for the ADI pathway

of S. pyogenes, which explains why this

APJ 100

Research and Scienfic Scienfic New Developments

In every issue of the journal, Terry Everi Everi our scienfic scienfic educator, conveys a few items of scienfic scienfic interest. In italics, are

his thoughts on the subject maer maer of the research study.

species can rapidly produce, causing

infecon in a habitat in which it usually

does not do well.

While this study indicated arginine from

filaggrin breakdown, it would be great to

know if this is the only source or does the

S. pyogenes uptake arginine from

products applied to the skin, given such

ingredient is used as a free radical

scavenger in several products.

Hirose, Y., Yamaguchi, M., Sumitomo, T.,

Nakata, M., Hanada, T., Okuzaki, D.,

Motooka, D., Mori, Y., Kawasaki, H.,

Coady, A., Uchiyama, S., Hiraoka, M.,

Zurich, R., Amagai, M., Nizet, V., &

Kawabata, S. (2021). Streptococcus

pyogenes upregulates arginine

catabolism to exert its pathogenesis on

the skin surface. Cell Reports, 34(13),

108924. DOI: 10.1016/


This research discovers a crical element of

understanding why this microorganism in

low quanty on the skin can rapidly mulply

to cause serious infecons. Hopefully, such

knowledge could lead to new therapeuc

approaches to tackle diseases. APJ




Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), a

significant component in green tea, has

been found to protect p53 of cells.

We know that p53 has several wellknown

funcons, such as acvang DNA

repair while halng cell growth for

effecve repair to occur. If DNA damage

cannot be repaired, it iniates apoptosis,

which stops the cell from mutaons.

EGCG binds with the end of p53, which

stops the protein from degrading. In

doing so, EGCG increases the power of

p53, acng in an an-cancer funcon. A

protein termed MDM2 acts on p53 to

degrade, which EGCG stops.

This study showed that EGCG binds

directly to tumour suppressor p53,

inhibing p53 degradaon.

Zhao, J., Blayney, A., Liu, X., Gandy, L.,

Jin, W., Yan, L., Ha, J., Canning, A.,

Connelly, M., Yang, C., Liu, X., Xiao, Y.,

Cosgrove, M., Solmaz, S., Zhang, Y., Ban,

D., Chen, J., Loh, S., & Wang, C. (2021).

EGCG binds intrinsically disordered N-

terminal domain of p53 and disrupts

p53-MDM2 interacon. Nature

Communicaons, 12, 986. hps://doi.org/


The p53 protein has a flexible end, known

as the N-terminal domain,

allowing it to perform

different funcons via

interacon with mulple

molecules for differing

outcomes for cellular health. If

p53 does not successfully

have DNA repair and does not

affect apoptosis, then the cell

mutates, frequently causing

cancer to develop. Such a

finding allows the more

outstanding opon for cancer

cell suppression and from an

easily obtained source. APJ

APJ 101


and treang skin diseases. While away off

yet, when this becomes commercially

available, it will revoluonise skin analysis.

The resoluon is at a μm-level that offers a

higher degree of accuracy when

differenang between topographies of the

skin surface.


repression of gene expression, or the

switching-off of individual genes to help

control responses to changing

environments and smuli. Researchers

discovered two central Polycomb

repressive complexes, PRC1 and PRC2,

have autonomous yet overlapping

funcons in repressing Polycomb target




genes, which allow epidermal cell identy

and normal skin development.

It has previously been established that

A team in Singapore has developed a

baery-operated device that measures

7cm by 10cm, weighs only 100 grams,

that produces high-resoluon 3D images

of human skin within 10 minutes. The

machine presses a specially devised film

of polylacc acid onto the subject's skin

to obtain an imprint of up to 5 by 5

cenmetres, then subjected to an electric

charge, generang a 3D image.

A complex network of precisely recorded

skin surface morphology with vercal

dimension informaon is captured on the

film, which is flexible to map features on

uneven skin areas, such as the creases of

an elbow and fingerprints.

Fu, X., Cheong, Y., Ahamed, A., Zhou, C.,

Robert, C., Krikstolaityte, V., Gordon, K.,

& Lisak, G. (2021). Diagnoscs of skin

features through 3D skin mapping based

on electro-controlled deposion of

conducng polymers onto metal-sebum

modified surfaces and their possible

applicaons in skin treatment. Analyca

Chimica Acta, 1142, 84-98. DOI:


Such a non-invasive, simple, and

inexpensive device could be used to

complement current methods of diagnosing




You may not have heard of polycomb

complexes, but these complexes are vital

in maintaining the gene-expression

paerns during early skin development

by regulang the structure of DNA and

proteins in cells.

Found to play a crical role in the

Polycomb complexes are oen

overexpressed in epithelial cancers,

including skin cancers.

Cohen, I., Bar, C., Liu, H., Valdes, V., Zhao,

D., Galbo, P., Silva, J., Koseki, H., Zheng,

D., & Ezhkova, E. (2021). Polycomb

complexes redundantly maintain

epidermal stem cell identy during

development. Genes & Development,

35(5-6), 354-366.DOI: 10.1101/


I think the finding of this study in using such

Polycomb inhibitors have implicaons for

the development of stem cell therapies to

produce "skin on a dish" to use for

transplantaon techniques and in the

treatment of skin cancers. If nothing else, it

shows another aspect of the fantasc skin

APJ 102

Research and Scienfic New Developments

In every issue of the journal, Terry Everi our scienfic educator, conveys a few items of scienfic interest. In italics, are

his thoughts on the subject maer of the research study.

biochemistry that we are unaware of that is

so vital to the skin homeostac funconing.


respecvely, and facial elascity

increased 28.2% from baseline.

Wamsley, C., Kislevitz, M., Barillas, J.,

Basci, D., Kandagatla, V., Hitchcock, T.,

Akgul, Y., & Kenkel, J. (2021). A Single-

Center Trial to Evaluate the Efficacy and

Tolerability of Four Microneedling

Treatments on Fine Lines and Wrinkles

of Facial and Neck Skin in Subjects With

Fitzpatrick Skin Types I-IV: An Objecve

Assessment Using Non-invasive Devices

and 0.33-mm Microbiopsies. Aesthec

Surgery Journal, online publish-ahead-ofprint,

1–16. DOI: 10.1093/asj/sjab052

While this study was with needle length not

typically used in a non-medical seng, the

results showing collagen type III and elasn

gene expression were stascally higher

three months post-treatment could be

generalised to aesthec needling, although

perhaps not so evident.

The results illustrate the effects of

microneedling treatments of which we know

of affecng skin architecture. APJ





A small yet robust study of 32 subjects

(93.75% female, 6.25% male) completed

four monthly sessions of medical

microneedling over face and neck with a

one and three-month follow-up. They

were aged between 44 and 65 years old

with Fitzpatrick skin types I-IV. A local

anaesthec of 20% benzocaine, 8%

lidocaine and 4% tetracaine was applied

to the treatment areas for 30 minutes,

then washed with saline followed by

isopropyl alcohol. Needle length was 1.0

and 2.5 mm, depending on paent

tolerability and the ease of achieving the

clinical endpoint, being a confluent zone

of pinpoint bleeding,

Invesgators used high-resoluon

ultrasonography, opcal coherence

tomography, transepidermal water loss

and BTC-2000 as well as 0.33mm microbiopsies

to assess the efficacy of

microneedling on facial and neck fine

lines and wrinkles.

At three months post-treatment, facial

dermal and epidermal density increased

an average of 101.86% and 19.28%,

Not surprisingly, collagen type III and

elasn gene expression were stascally

higher post-treatment, yet total elasn

protein levels were unchanged.

This study adds to previous histologic

analyses that objecvely substanated

the benefits of these treatments, showing

increased epidermal thickness with welldeveloped

rete ridges, increased

expression of collagen types I to IV and

VII and fibronecn.

Image: average needle length of all

treatments from all paents (range 0.75 –




While most of us have done

microneedling on clients for ages now,

microneedling is becoming an

increasingly popular treatment for

androgenec alopecia (AGA). The

variance of needle length for

effecveness has always been in


A small study has found a needle length

APJ 103


of 0.6 mm (in combinaon with minoxidil)

was most effecve. Two groups of 30

subjects (mix of female and male) each

underwent six treatments for 12 weeks,

with a cartridge of 9, 33-gauge needles

0.2 mm diameter. A third group acng as

control had no micro-needling treatment.

• Group A used minoxidil 5% loon and

biweekly micro-needling with a depth

of 1.2 mm.

• Group B used minoxidil 5% loon and

biweekly micro-needling with a depth

of 0.6 mm.

• Group C only used minoxidil 5% as

the control group.

Aer 12 weeks, all had increased hair

growth from the baseline, with the two

groups receiving micro-needling having

more hair growth than the control group.

Of these two groups, group B treated

with 0.6 mm needles had more significant

hair growth and hair thickness.

It has been generally accepted (yet not by

all) that needle depth greater than 1.0

mm is needed, which this study shows

otherwise, with needle depth being the

only variable.

Pre-treatment (A) and post-treatment (B)

appearance in a paent receiving six

sessions of micro-needling with a depth

of 0.6 mm p. 1244

Faghihi, G., Nabavinejad. S., Mokhtari, F.,

Naeini, F., & Iraji. F. (2021).

Microneedling in androgenec alopecia;

comparing two different depths of

microneedles. Journal of Cosmec

Dermatology, 20(4), 1241-1247.doi.org/


While this was undertaken with a prescribed

drug, many OTC drugs and cosmec

ingredients have great promise in hair

restoraon, so they easily could be

incorporated into your hair restoraon

services. APJ



We know that stress can lead to hair loss

and lack of pigmentaon in the hair.

Researchers from Harvard University

have idenfied how this occurs in finding

that the stress hormone corcosterone

causes hair follicle stem cells to stay in an

extended resng phase without

regenerang ssue.

The stages of hair growth we are familiar

with are determined by hair follicle stem

cells. When the stem cells are acvated,

hair grows then goes quiescent, and hairs

stop the growth and shed more quickly.

Under normal condions, hair follicle

regeneraon slows over me - the resng

phase becomes more prolonged, and hair

loss is a sign of ageing.

Corsol acts on a cluster of cells in the

dermal papilla, prevenng the expression

of a molecule 'Gas6' that causes the

acvaon of hair follicle stem cells.

When researchers

arficially 'feed' the Gas6

molecule, the follicle stem

cells regenerated.

This discovery follows

from previous work by the

same group who found

why hair may turn grey

with stress via acvaon

of the sympathec

nervous system, which

depletes melanocyte stem

cells via nerve derived


These findings suggest that the

significant switch for hair follicle stem cell

acvity is not from the dermal papilla yet

is in the adrenal gland. It works by

changing the threshold required for stem

cell acvaon.

Choi, S., Zhang, B., Ma, S., Gonzalez-

Celeiro, M., Stein, D., Jin, X., Kim, S.,

Kang, Y., Besnard, A., Rezza,A., Grisan,

L., Buenrostro, J., Rendl, M., Nahrendorf,

M., Sahay, A., & Hsu, Y.

(2021). Corcosterone inhibits GAS6 to

govern hair follicle stem-cell

quiescence. Nature, 592, 428–432.

DOI: 10.1038/s41586-021-03417-2

APJ 104

Research and Scienfic Scienfic New Developments

In every issue of the journal, Terry Everi Everi our scienfic scienfic educator, conveys a few items of scienfic scienfic interest. In italics, are

his thoughts on the subject maer maer of the research study.

The study's results also have broader

implicaons for stem cell biology showing

that ssue biology of one part of the body is

interconnected with the physiology of

another part some distance away.

Although stress has does impact both

melanocyte and hair follicle stem cells, the

pathways are different.


treatment with an 805 nm diode laser

and an IPL device with a 640–1200 nm


• Group 1: one IPL treatment and

three diode laser treatments.

• Group 2: two IPL treatments and

three diode laser treatments.

however, there are fundamental differences

in how they are built and in the light they

emit, making a vast difference.






If, for some reason, you were thinking to

combine IPL with diode laser for laser hair

removal, then don't, as it reduces the

efficacy of the treatment.

Forty-five females (21–23 years old; skin

type II-III) underwent hair reducon

• Group 3: three IPL treatments and

three diode laser treatments.

• Group 4: three diode laser treatments


The percentage of hair loss was most

significant among the paents treated

with a diode laser only.

The authors posit that the inial

treatment with the non-coherent light of

the IPL weakened and thinned the hair,

impeding the absorpon of 805 nm

wavelength by the melanin in the hair.

Thereby negavely impacng the

effecveness of the diode laser.

Aa-Moe, M., & Zaleska, I. (2021) The

results of the diode laser hair reducon

treatments aer the IPL hair reducon

treatments, Journal of Cosmec and Laser

Therapy, Published online: 09 Jun 2021.

DOI: 10.1080/14764172.2021.1936066

Lasers and IPL acon are similarly based on

the selecve photo thermolysis principle.

The melanin acts as chromatophore;



Before you rush out for an eyelash

transplant, think this through. Eyelashes

have had a plethora of treatments over

the decades -nts, perms, growth serums

extensions and now transplantaon.

This involves hair taken from the scalp

and inserted individually into the lash

line, giving a permanent result that could

last up to a lifeme, although not


Such is surgery so that the usual surgical

side effects can occur, not to menon the

cost of insurance.

The transplanted hairs frequently fall out

with the crusts at 5 to 8 days aer the

procedure, connuing for approx. two

weeks. New hair begins to grow in the

fourth to the six-month window and will

connue to grow. Such can be a problem.

Remember, these are scalp hairs that can

produce extended growth and in various

direcons. Cung the hairs result in

blunt ends that are not the natural look of

eyelashes, so they will need constant

curling to lessen the 'blunng effect', and

the hairs will be much heavier than

natural eyelash hairs. APJ

APJ 105






during these turbulent mes businesses

must remain agile and flexible to change.

If you are a business owner in this

industry, you are oen required to carry a

diverse range of responsibilies to

maintain business viability. In our industry

the compounded stress is oen leading to

mental health issues contribung to

reducon in producvity and inability to

visualise strategies for sustainability and

implement a plan for future growth.

Our research has confirmed that almost

42% of businesses we surveyed stated that

because of the challenges in coping with

their stress, they preferred to decrease

staff numbers and downsize their business.

While the Government is making available

helplines, APAN believes we can provide a

higher-level of support by taking an

industry-specific focused approach in

mental health and business skills

development. As a result of on-going

industry feedback, we are launching the





This is a clinically proven 12-unit program

developed by a highly qualified HR and

wellness expert who is designing the

program to provide a customised approach

in line with our specific industry needs.


The MENTAL HEALTH AND BUSINESS PROGRAM will provide you with an easy to

implement self-paced, self-directed learning plan that will be supported by mental health

and leadership development tools. It will help to strengthen your resilience and enhance

your capacity to view the future with greater opmism. You will gain the skills to idenfy

opons and viable possibilies for sustainability and on-going growth.

Another benefit of this program is that it will help enhance the way you connect with

others and improve relaonships, both in the workplace and beyond, This will allow you

to improve producvity and enhance individual and team collaboraon.

The program is skilfully designed with several tools to support your progress. You will

have access to acvity guides, worksheets, videos and feedback forms with a call to

acon. To monitor your progress, you will be encouraged to appoint an “accountability

buddy” or you can request a consultaon with a coach to guide you through the process.

The skills you will learn will help you prevent mental health issues, master stress, develop

self-leadership and accountability, master courageous conversaons and more.

Life will connue to have its disrupons, however focused help is now available, and

incredible opportunies are sll within your reach if you have the right mindset. APAN is

connuing to lead the way toward quality, results-driven soluons. We ancipate that the

first three units will be available by August/September. Each unit will have a specific

focus in skills development to get you started. Collecvely the program will be

transformaonal for business owners and their team. You will be able to incrementally

self-pace yourself through the program as each unit will provide you with incredible

content and great value.

If you are interested in accessing the MENTAL HEALTH AND BUSINESS PROGRAM,

please complete the EXPRESSION OF INTEREST FORM below so that you can be

nofied as soon as it is released. APJ

If you require further informaon, please phone APAN 07 5593 0360.

APJ 106



W e b s i t e P r o fi l e

S o c i a l M e d i a S h o u t o u t s

B e a P o d c a s t G u e s t

F e a t u r e i n D i g i t a l M a g a z i n e

A c c e s s P r i v a t e B 2 C g r o u p

S c a n h e r e t o l e a r n

m o r e a b o u t h o w y o u

c a n g r o w y o u r

b u s i n e s s

APJ 107




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your regulatory compliance and achieve a

level of excellence and order in how you run

your business.



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APJ 108

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