Jeweller - September 2021

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SEPTEMBER <strong>2021</strong><br />

All in white<br />



Making the cut<br />



Ocean of colour<br />





Sapphires are some of the world’s oldest gemstones, each one of them dating back billions of years.<br />

Embodying the Australian wilderness, these noble gems were unearthed from the ancient landscapes<br />

of the New England Fields in Northern New South Wales and undulating hills of Central Queensland.<br />

From ocean blue, teal and yellow-green wattle to multi-coloured parti, their colour range is second to none,<br />

unveiling the array of bold sapphire hues. Sapphires are also known for their healing properties as they<br />

are the stones of protection and peace, wisdom and loyalty.<br />

Sapphire Dreams certifies and inscribes every sapphire greater than 0.75ct and provides lot numbers<br />

for all sapphires below that weight to guarantee their Australian origin.

Our Australian sapphire jewellery collection is crafted in 9ct or diamond set 18ct gold.<br />

Sapphire Dreams certifies and inscribes every sapphire greater than 0.75ct to ensure their Australian origin.

Call SGA today to become an Authorised Stockist<br />

SapphireDreams.com.au<br />

02 9290 2199

Australia is enriched with amazing treasures. Sapphire Dreams pays tribute to the beauty of<br />

natural Australian sapphires, ethically sourced from the sapphire fields of inland Eastern Australia.<br />

To achieve this level of uncompromised excellence, all sapphires pass through the hands of our<br />

skilled gem cutters to become one-of-a-kind, timeless masterpieces.



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Quest, Lot 68 in the 2020 Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender is one of 12 'Petite Suites',<br />

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The new exclusive distributor of Swarovski Created Diamonds<br />

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Swarovski’s most astonishing innovations have always emerged from the company’s legacy of craftsmanship and technology.<br />

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This unique display allows you to present<br />

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giving them a choice of beautifully crafted<br />

Swarovski Created Diamonds.<br />


Swarovski Created Diamonds are supplied<br />

as loose stones and are offered in six classic<br />

diamond shapes and 16 astonishing fancy<br />

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Info@LJWestDiamonds.com | www.LJWestDiamonds.com | www.ScottWestDiamonds.com

Est. 1990<br />

Important Update regarding this year’s <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair.<br />

Dear retailers, buyers and family,<br />

We hope that you and your staff, as well as your family, are doing OK despite the challenges we are all facing throughout<br />

Australia.<br />

Given what was unfolding at time of production of this advertisement, it has become obvious that we must again reschedule<br />

the International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y & Watch Fair (IJWF) following the various State Government’s COVID lockdowns. It is clear that the<br />

situation is not improving quickly enough to have confidence that the <strong>September</strong> dates in Sydney can proceed.<br />

Update your diary!<br />

It was an extremely difficult decision to make, but ultimately the health and safety of everyone involved and limiting the potential<br />

threat of spreading the virus was the most important consideration.<br />

So it distresses me to announce that we believe we have no other choice but to reschedule the IJWF to next year –<br />

Saturday 27 August through to Monday 29 August, 2022 at the ICC Darling Harbour.<br />

That said, we know that many suppliers and retailers have been depending on the Sydney Fair this year to get a chance to meet<br />

face-to-face with existing and new customers, in time for the important Christmas and New Year sales periods. In fact, following<br />

18 months of COVID, never has there been a time where in-person meetings to present new products and ideas in time for<br />

Christmas are vital.<br />

For that reason, and after extensive discussions with industry leaders, there is no doubt that retail buyers are looking for new<br />

designs and products. The feedback from suppliers over the past few years, and especially since COVID, is that retailer-buying<br />

patterns have changed, with a tendency for later and later ordering for Christmas delivery.<br />

A pattern was established last year – while there was a pent-up demand after the lockdowns, retailers wanted to see sales<br />

materialise and start ticking over before they ordered Christmas stock. It should be noted that jewellery sales increased by around<br />

30% post the COVID lockdowns.<br />

StockUpTopUp<br />



Therefore, based on the NSW and QLD borders re-opening by a reasonable time in <strong>September</strong> and<br />

allowing retailers to begin trading again we have created special events to reconnect.<br />

Understandably, many retailers were caught short last year and found that they had under-estimated demand as consumers<br />

opened their wallets after a long period of COVID restrictions. For that reason, and with consultation with the industry, we have<br />

created a niche trade event: StockUp&TopUp (SUTU’21).<br />

StockUp&TopUp (SUTU’21) is designed exclusively to meet the buying patterns of retailers for the busiest time of the year,<br />

Christmas and New Year. And the timing of StockUp&TopUp is also ideal:<br />

SUTU Brisbane: 9 – 10 October at the Brisbane Convention Centre<br />

SUTU Sydney: 23 – 24 October at the ICC Darling Harbour<br />

Both events are not only well-timed for Christmas orders, they will also be time efficient for retailers.<br />

We are aware that the Sydney IJWF is the #1 date on the jewellery industry calendar, and we know the importance it plays in<br />

showcasing this wonderful industry; educating, inspiring and selling, and the free marketing opportunities we provide to the<br />

various industry associations and guilds to unite people. More importantly, our staff is immensely grateful for the understanding,<br />

kindness and unwavering support everyone has demonstrated during these very difficult and trying times and we promise to<br />

reward this support with the most memorable trade show ever next year.<br />

We are also please to announce the new year Trade Days will again run nationally in 2022!<br />

Melbourne: 5 – 6 February • Sydney: 12 – 13 February • Brisbane: 5 – 6 March • Perth: 12 – 13 March • Adelaide: 20 – 21 March<br />

Stay safe and positive; we did come out of this once before and time will ensure we do again.<br />

Gary Fitz-Roy<br />


AUGUST <strong>2021</strong><br />

Contents<br />

This Month<br />

Industry Facets<br />

15 Editor’s Desk<br />

28<br />

10 YEARS AGO<br />

Time Machine: <strong>September</strong> 2011<br />

16 Upfront<br />

30<br />

MY STORE<br />

Steve Pallas Bespoke <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

18 News<br />

32<br />

NOW & THEN<br />

Smales <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

26 Product Spotlight<br />

35<br />


Fire opal<br />


Shape and shimmer<br />

4ARABELLA RODEN explores<br />

the creative potential, history, and<br />

misconceptions about diamond cuts.<br />

46 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Showcase<br />

Features<br />

80<br />

82<br />

MY BENCH<br />

Rick Southwick<br />


Lilo Stadler<br />

36<br />

48<br />

61<br />


The white side<br />


A to Z: Diamond cuts<br />


Every hue of green and blue<br />

Better Your Business<br />


The silver lining<br />

4The diversity of the white metals category makes<br />

it uniquely resilient in the face of unpredictable<br />

market forces, writes ARABELLA RODEN.<br />

74<br />

76<br />

77<br />

78<br />

79<br />


JEANNIE WALTERS cracks the code of predicting future consumer behaviour.<br />


It's time to assess and improve your store's sales culture, writes JOSH STRUTT.<br />


BRI WILLIAMS reveals the right way to deliver bad news.<br />


SIMON DELL explains how to build a customer loyalty program that pays off.<br />


BETH WALKER presents a simplified guide to understanding digital marketing.<br />

35 LEARN ABOUT<br />

Fire opal<br />

4Also known as<br />

Mexican opal, the<br />

flame-like hues of fire<br />

opal ignite the passion and<br />

creativity of jewellers.<br />

FRONT COVER Sapphire Dreams<br />

pays tribute to the beauty of Australian<br />

sapphires, celebrating the art of<br />

craftsmanship and contemporary<br />

jewellery design. Proudly Australian<br />

owned and operated, SAMS Group<br />

Australia has more than 50 years<br />

of experience in luxury jewellery<br />

and working with Australian<br />

gemstones. All of our products<br />

are of impeccable quality, ethically<br />

sourced and expertly crafted.<br />

<strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 13

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Editor’s Desk<br />

Beyoncé, Tiffany, and the marketing conundrum<br />

Tiffany & Co.’s latest advertising campaign has made headlines –<br />

but will it attract new customers, asks ARABELLA RODEN.<br />

When French luxury conglomerate Moët<br />

Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) acquired<br />

Tiffany & Co. in January, it signalled<br />

that big changes were afoot, whether<br />

customers liked them or not.<br />

Tiffany wasn’t just getting a takeover, but<br />

a makeover.<br />

And with the deep coffers one might<br />

expect from Europe’s most valuable<br />

company, LVMH was willing to commit<br />

the funds to seeing its new vision<br />

become a reality.<br />

Tiffany’s CEO, chief artistic officer,<br />

and chief brand officer were promptly<br />

shown the door, and new management –<br />

selected from LVMH’s existing stable of<br />

luxury brands – was ushered in.<br />

One of them was the son of LVMH<br />

chairman Bernard Arnault, who<br />

was named Tiffany’s new executive<br />

vice-president of product and<br />

communications.<br />

Born in 1992, Alexandre Arnault already<br />

had an impressive resume, having<br />

repositioned 123-year-old German<br />

luggage brand Rimowa during his tenure<br />

as CEO as a luxury powerhouse of<br />

modern travel accessories.<br />

His appointment was a clear indication<br />

of LVMH’s new marketing strategy for<br />

Tiffany – ‘freshening’ the brand for a new<br />

generation of consumers.<br />

Barely two months into Arnault’s tenure,<br />

Tiffany & Co. cancelled its New York<br />

Times print-edition ad, which had run on<br />

page 3 since 1896.<br />

The re-branding continued with a<br />

controversial billboard campaign bearing<br />

the slogan, ‘Not your mother’s Tiffany’.<br />

The intention was clear – positioning<br />

Tiffany as a youthful, on-trend, and<br />

unpretentious brand, accessible to Gen Z.<br />

Yet it fell into the trap faced by many<br />

heritage brands attempting to shift<br />

their image: alienating its existing<br />

customer base.<br />

The ire was palpable on social media:<br />

“Tiffany is classic and iconic. Why is there<br />

a need to pit generations against one<br />

another?” one Tiffany customer wrote.<br />

Another was more blunt, “I am a<br />

mom. Am I not good enough? Am I<br />

too embarrassing? Too old? My values<br />

and thoughts too stupid and dumb? Is<br />

everyone better than me because I gave<br />

birth? Or is it just all old women are not<br />

worth it and embarrassing?”<br />

Industry commentators were also<br />

unimpressed, with some calling it lazy,<br />

ageist, uninspired, and fundamentally<br />

misunderstanding the nature of Tiffany<br />

jewellery as an intergenerational product<br />

– a treasured heirloom often passed from<br />

mother to daughter.<br />

With a less-than-stellar reception for its<br />

first marketing foray, Tiffany switched<br />

gears and brought out ‘the big guns’:<br />

international superstar Beyoncé, the<br />

128-carat Tiffany Diamond, and Breakfast<br />

At Tiffany’s.<br />

Against a backdrop of a rarely-seen<br />

painting by iconic 1980s street artist<br />

Jean-Michel Basquiat – featuring Tiffanyblue<br />

paint, no less – the ‘About Love’<br />

campaign sees Beyoncé don the canary<br />

yellow pendant and croon Moon River<br />

alongside husband Jay Z.<br />

"It’s our biggest campaign for the year,"<br />

Arnault said. "It’s the most enduring<br />

campaign. Also, it’s the only year-long<br />

campaign that we have.<br />

"It marks a clear evolution of what we’ve<br />

been doing from a creative standpoint.”<br />

Indeed, if Tiffany was intending to ‘break<br />

the Internet’ with this campaign, it<br />

certainly succeeded; breathless headlines<br />

abounded over every detail, including<br />

Tiffany’s accompanying donation to<br />

historically black universities and<br />

scholarship funds in the US.<br />

However, for every post excited over the<br />

first woman of colour to wear the Tiffany<br />

Diamond, there was another criticising<br />

Beyoncé for donning a diamond mined<br />

in colonial South Africa, where African<br />

The old adage<br />

states that any<br />

publicity is good<br />

publicity, but<br />

have the ‘Not<br />

Your Mother’s<br />

Tiffany’ and<br />

‘About Love’<br />

campaigns<br />

convinced<br />

anyone, let<br />

alone Gen<br />

Z, to buy<br />

more Tiffany<br />

jewellery?<br />

labourers were often ruthlessly exploited<br />

under British control.<br />

For every article marvelling at the<br />

Basquiat, there was an opinion piece<br />

decrying the use of the artist’s work in a<br />

commercial campaign.<br />

In an attempt to appeal to Gen Z’s ‘woke’<br />

– that is, politically correct and socially<br />

aware – sensibilities, Tiffany opened<br />

itself up to severe criticism, muddying<br />

the message of its eye-wateringly<br />

expensive advertising.<br />

The old adage states that any publicity<br />

is good publicity, but have the ‘Not<br />

Your Mother’s Tiffany’ and ‘About Love’<br />

campaigns convinced anyone, let alone<br />

Gen Z, to buy more Tiffany jewellery?<br />

Arnault seems to think so. "'Not<br />

Your Mother’s Tiffany’ has been met<br />

with quite a bit of adversity, which<br />

we anticipated, but we’ve seen great<br />

growth from the product categories in<br />

it," he said in August. However, he did<br />

not provide specific figures, and the<br />

campaign was only launched in July.<br />

Arnault added, "We obviously welcome<br />

the dialogue, whether it’s positive or<br />

negative. We were spoken about by<br />

people who had never spoken about<br />

Tiffany before."<br />

In a crowded marketplace, a business<br />

must work harder than ever to win the<br />

attention and dollars of consumers.<br />

On an investor call in April, Jean-<br />

Jacques Guiony, LVMH’s chief financial<br />

officer, said, "It will take years to do<br />

what we want to do with this brand,<br />

from a distribution, merchandising, and<br />

marketing viewpoint. It is a lot of work –<br />

we are committed to doing it."<br />

It’s clear that the French conglomerate<br />

has the will and the money to turn<br />

big plans into reality. But first, it must<br />

work out exactly what it wants Tiffany<br />

to be.<br />

Arabella Roden<br />

Editor<br />

<strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 15

Upfront<br />

#Instagram hashtags to follow<br />

#18kwhitegold<br />

34,725+ POSTS<br />

#finejewellery<br />


#garnetearrings<br />

17,904+ POSTS<br />

#londonbluetopaz<br />

88,025+ POSTS<br />

#mensrings<br />

150,422+ POSTS<br />


Black<br />

Star of<br />

Queensland<br />

4Perhaps the most famous Australian<br />

sapphire is the Black Star of Queensland, which<br />

held the title of the world's largest star sapphire<br />

until 2015. Found by 12-year-old Roy Spencer in<br />

the gemfields of Anakie in 1938, the 1,165-carat<br />

rough was used as a doorstop before Roy's father<br />

realised it was a sapphire.<br />

Alpha Order<br />

#modernjewellery<br />

205,494+ POSTS<br />

#ovaldiamond<br />

98,475+ POSTS<br />

#peridot<br />


#sapphirering<br />

270,904+ POSTS<br />

#southseapearls<br />

241,247+ POSTS<br />

US jeweller Harry Kazanjian purchased the rough in 1947 and painstakingly<br />

cut it into a 733-carat cabochon, later set in a diamond pendant and worn by<br />

singer Cher in 1971 (top right). It changed hands several times in the 2000s,<br />

with an estimated sale price of $US100 million, and was last seen in 2007.<br />

Campaign Watch<br />

4Lourdes Leon, the daughter of<br />

Madonna, has been tapped as the latest<br />

model for Swarovski jewellery as part<br />

of its ongoing re-branding strategy.<br />

Leon will be the face of Collection II, the<br />

second range of designs from the crystal<br />

brand's creative director Giovanna<br />

Battaglia Engelbert. The pieces feature<br />

kaleidoscopic colours and on-trend<br />

chain details.<br />

Image credit: Swarovski/Mikael Jansson<br />

Stranger Things<br />

Weird, wacky and wonderful<br />

jewellery news from around the world<br />

Dammed if you do<br />

4Former action star Jean-Claude<br />

Van Damme may have unwittingly<br />

assisted in the robbery of a<br />

luxury jewellery store in Paris by<br />

distracting would-be witnesses.<br />

According to a UK report, an armed<br />

man successfully held up staff at<br />

the Chaumet store on the Champs-<br />

Élysées and made off with jewellery<br />

valued at more than €2 million, with<br />

crowds of shoppers on the street<br />

failing to notice the commotion as<br />

they clammered to get a look at The<br />

Expendables star instead.<br />

Dental as anything<br />

4US professional footballer<br />

Odell Beckham Jr has undergone<br />

a glitzy mouth makeover. The<br />

athlete had diamond-encrusted<br />

porcelain veneers placed on his<br />

teeth at a cost of $US1.8 million.<br />

The design used stones weighing<br />

a total of 13 carats, including oval,<br />

kite, and cross-cut shapes. Several<br />

other celebrities, including rapper<br />

Post Malone, have had similar<br />

dental treatments.<br />

Provenance Proof<br />

– which relies<br />

on blockchain<br />

technology – now<br />

has more than 500<br />

users globally.<br />

Digital Brainwave<br />

4The Provenance Proof gemstone tracking<br />

platform, developed by the House of Gübelin<br />

and Australian-led blockchain technology<br />

firm Everledger, has marked 500,000<br />

coloured gemstones processed worldwide,<br />

as well as announcing new features.<br />

Klemens Link, head of Provenance<br />

Proof, said, “Retailers and customers<br />

demand information that goes beyond the<br />

scientific data that can be provided in the<br />

gemmological laboratory. Digital technology<br />

has bridged the gap."<br />

New Product<br />

4SAMS Group Australia introduces<br />

Sapphire Dreams, a new range paying<br />

tribute to the beauty of Australian<br />

sapphires. Sapphire Dreams exhibits a<br />

wide range of contemporary sapphire<br />

jewellery, set in 9 or 18-carat gold.<br />

Ethically sourced loose Australian<br />

sapphires are also available, with laser<br />

inscription and a verified certificate.<br />

Robbing the grave<br />

4Police have arrested a French<br />

woman for a jewellery theft which<br />

took place at an open casket funeral.<br />

The woman is alleged to have<br />

posed as a friend of the deceased,<br />

convincing family members to allow<br />

her to pay her respects alone. French<br />

media report that when the family<br />

returned, the deceased's earrings,<br />

ring and necklace were all missing.<br />

Searching the suspect's home, police<br />

later found a stack of recent death<br />

notices along with funeral home<br />

access codes.<br />


Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd<br />

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com<br />

Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Editor Arabella Roden arabella.roden@jewellermagazine.com • Production Assistant Lauren McKinnon art@befindanmedia.com<br />

Digital Co-ordinator Trish Bucheli-Preece trish@jewellermagazine.com • Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com<br />

Copyright All material appearing in <strong>Jeweller</strong> is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd<br />

strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information<br />

believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to<br />

the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities<br />

arising from the published material.

Supplying Australia Since 1974

Sydney jewellery fair cancelled; new<br />

events launched for October<br />

The <strong>2021</strong> International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y & Watch Fair has been cancelled, with two new<br />

buying events announced for Sydney and Brisbane in October.<br />

With continuing high COVID-19 case numbers and an extended lockdown<br />

in greater Sydney, organiser Expertise Events has cancelled the upcoming<br />

International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y & Watch Fair, (IJWF) however two new events are<br />

launching in Brisbane and Sydney.<br />

The IJWF, due to take place at the ICC Sydney Exhibition Centre in Sydney’s<br />

Darling Harbour, was previously postponed from 29–30 August to 24–27<br />

<strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>.<br />

Gary Fitz-Roy, managing director Expertise Events, said it was “devastating”<br />

to cancel what would have been the 30th IJWF. “It’s clear that the situation is<br />

not improving quickly enough to have confidence that the <strong>September</strong> dates<br />

in Sydney can proceed to the scale that it has been previously,” Fitz-Roy said<br />

in an email to exhibitors.<br />

The Diamonds by DGA range includes<br />

9K and 18K gold bridal sets, wedding<br />

bands, earrings, bracelets,<br />

rings and pendants.<br />

New season designs now available.<br />

'Exceptional' 342-carat<br />

diamond found<br />

4 Petra Diamonds has recovered a<br />

342.92-carat Type IIa white rough stone<br />

at the iconic Cullinan Mine in South<br />

Africa. The diamond is described as<br />

“exceptional” in terms of both colour<br />

and clarity, and that is likely to be<br />

sold at Petra's <strong>September</strong> tender. The<br />

company sold a 299.3-carat Type IIa<br />

stone for $US12.2 million in March and<br />

a 39.34-carat Proudly blue distributed diamond for by $US40.2<br />

million in July.<br />

“It was an extremely difficult decision to make, but ultimately the health<br />

and safety of everyone involved and limiting the potential threat of spreading<br />

the virus was the most important consideration, as is the confidence of our<br />

visitor audience to attend large gatherings.”<br />

Expertise Events confirmed the next IJWF will take place from Saturday<br />

27 to Monday 29 August 2022.<br />

“Our staff are immensely grateful for the understanding, kindness and<br />

unwavering support everyone has demonstrated during these very difficult<br />

and trying times and we promise to reward this support with the most<br />

memorable trade show ever next year.”<br />

Fitz-Roy acknowledged that suppliers and retailers were depending on this<br />

year’s Sydney fair to meet face-to-face in time for the crucial Christmas and<br />

New Year sales periods. Taking this into consideration, Expertise Events has<br />

announced new buying days, similar to the successful Trade Days format<br />

earlier this year.<br />

Named Stock Up & Top Up (SUTU), the events are scheduled to be held at:<br />

• Brisbane: 9–10 October <strong>2021</strong> at the Brisbane Convention Centre<br />

• Sydney: 23–24 October <strong>2021</strong> at the ICC Darling Harbour<br />

Both will have capped exhibitor numbers; IJWF exhibitors will be invited<br />

to attend first, with the ability to ‘roll over’ their deposits to SUTU or to the<br />

2022 IJWF.<br />

“As you will understand, our office is closed but we will do our very best<br />

to call you personally to seek your instructions,” Fitz-Roy said. All buying<br />

groups are invited, with Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s and Independent <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

Collective already committing their support.<br />

18 02 9417 | <strong>September</strong> 0177 | www.dgau.com.au<br />


Michael Hill results indicate<br />

transformation on track<br />

Despite the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, Michael Hill International has recorded<br />

strong financial results for the year with a lift in same-store sales.<br />

Michael Hill International (MHI) has reported an after-tax profit of $45.3<br />

million for the year ended 30 June <strong>2021</strong>, a significant increase from its 2020<br />

result of $3.1 million. Earnings before interest and tax were $72.4 million,<br />

compared with $14.1 million the previous year.<br />

The company’s revenue from Australian stores was $312.3 million, a 17 per<br />

cent increase compared to FY20, while revenue from New Zealand stores<br />

exceeded $121 million – 19 per cent increase over the previous year.<br />

Commenting on the result in a media release, Daniel Bracken, CEO MHI,<br />

said, “I am particularly proud of our results, underpinned by strategy<br />

execution and the resilience of our team... Setting aside the global<br />

store network closure in 2020, the company has now delivered eight<br />

consecutive quarters of positive same-store sales growth together with<br />

sustained margin expansion.”<br />

As at 30 June <strong>2021</strong>, there were 150 Michael Hill stores in Australia – a loss of<br />

five stores on the previous year and representing more than 52 per cent of its<br />

285 total store count. At the time of publication, 46 NSW, 34 Victorian and 4<br />

ACT stores are temporarily closed due to government-mandated lockdowns,<br />

with a further 49 New Zealand stores also in lockdown.<br />

Bracken explained: “Throughout the year, we successfully navigated the<br />

complexity of the global pandemic, with half our Canadian stores closed for<br />

many months, and sporadic temporary closures across our global network.<br />

“While it was an incredibly challenging year, the strength of our brand and<br />

the determination of our team delivered record results and further validates<br />

the transformation is on track.”<br />

MHI also experienced encouraging results in Canada, where all-store<br />

revenue increased by 6.9 per cent to $CA118.4 million, up from $CA110.8<br />

million the previous year. This included a same-store sales increase of 6.8<br />

per cent.<br />

The company noted: “This segment was heavily impacted by temporary store<br />

closures in Eastern Canada, with 6,525 lost store trading days for the year.<br />

By early July, all 86 stores were open and have remained trading, with our<br />

strategic focus now returning to the productivity opportunity in the market."<br />

The financial announcement noted that MHI had experienced “significant"<br />

lost sales in the first seven weeks of FY22 due to lockdowns in Australia,<br />

though strong early performance in Canada and New Zealand contributed to<br />

an increase of 17 per cent group same-store sales for the period.<br />

Management estimated that the 2,755 lost trading days – a figure calculated<br />

by adding the opening hours of all temporarily closed stores – would lower<br />

revenue expectations by $5 million, with sales down 2 per cent.

New Scandinavian watch brand launched in Australia<br />

Nordgreen watches, distributed locally by West End<br />

Collection, have proved popular, reaching DKK101 million<br />

($AU22.2 million) in sales last year.<br />

West End Collection has begun distributing<br />

Nordgreen watches – designed in Copenhagen,<br />

Denmark – to the local market.<br />

Founded in 2017, Nordgreen is described as<br />

combining minimalist Nordic design with a<br />

commitment to environmental and social<br />

responsibility. Its timepieces are conceptualised<br />

by award-winning designer and engineer Jakob<br />

Wagner, who is renowned for his work at luxury<br />

electronics manufacturer Bang & Olufsen.<br />

In addition to sustainable production and<br />

recyclable packaging, the brand also operates<br />

a ‘Give Back Program' – for each watch<br />

purchased, Nordgreen organises a donation to<br />

one of three charity projects.<br />

John Rose, director West End Collection, said,<br />

“Nordgreen is the next big watch brand to<br />

come out of Scandinavia. It has a very powerful<br />

and experienced team behind it; the advisory<br />

board includes the former CEO of Pandora,<br />

Mikkel Olesen, as well as Juha Christensen, the<br />

chairman of Bang & Olufsen.<br />

“Its chief commercial officer is the man<br />

responsible for the incredible growth of Skagen,<br />

prior to it being purchased by Fossil, Lars<br />

Kornbech,” Rose added.<br />

Rose called Nordgreen’s sales growth “far<br />

greater than any other brand that we have<br />

seen”; according to a brand presentation, its<br />

revenues increased from DKK31 million ($AU6.8<br />

million) in 2019 to DKK101 million ($AU22.2<br />

million) in 2020 – its third calendar year of<br />

operation – despite the COVID-19 pandemic.<br />

At retail, Nordgreen pieces are priced between<br />

$239–429 across five lines for men and women.<br />

The brand is currently stocked by retailers<br />

across Europe and Asia, including Denmark, the<br />

UK, Germany, Japan and China.<br />

Rose emphasised the brand’s “genuine support”<br />

for retailers, noting that each new stockist would<br />

receive a 30-day "Geotargeting campaign" to<br />

boost in-store sales through digital marketing.<br />

New Nordgreen stockists also receive a free<br />

second watch strap with every watch.

Pandora’s sales, share price<br />

on the rise<br />

Amid promising results in the second quarter of <strong>2021</strong>, Pandora Jewelry has<br />

updated its financial guidance for the year.<br />

Pandora Jewelry has issued an<br />

encouraging financial guidance,<br />

upgrading its forecast for the<br />

remainder of <strong>2021</strong>.<br />

The company had originally<br />

estimated organic growth – that<br />

is, increase in revenue excluding<br />

mergers and acquisitions – would<br />

be “above 12 per cent” for the<br />

year; the revised figure is 16–18<br />

per cent.<br />

Meanwhile, the forecast operating<br />

margin has also increased from<br />

22 per cent to 23–24 per cent.<br />

The updated guidance is based<br />

on the assumption that 5 per<br />

cent of Pandora’s stores will be<br />

temporarily closed or severely<br />

impacted due to the COVID-19<br />

pandemic during the second half<br />

of <strong>2021</strong>.<br />

Earlier forecasts indicated the<br />

number could be as high as<br />

10 per cent.<br />

In the second quarter of <strong>2021</strong>,<br />

15 per cent of its global network<br />

of approximately 2,690 stores –<br />

of which 1,382 are owned and<br />

operated by Pandora – were<br />

temporarily closed.<br />

A statement issued by the<br />

company on 8 August noted,<br />

“Today, around 6 per cent of<br />

the stores are temporarily<br />

closed or severely impacted<br />

due to COVID-19.<br />

"The updated guidance also<br />

assumes that COVID-19 will have<br />

no major negative impact on<br />

production and supply chain.<br />

“COVID-19 is still expected to<br />

impact organic growth negatively<br />

by around -6 per cent for the full<br />

year.”<br />

The statement also shed light on,<br />

and compared, past results to<br />

those achieved during the second<br />

quarter of <strong>2021</strong>.<br />

Describing the company’s “strong<br />

momentum” during the period,<br />

the statement noted that organic<br />

growth had increased 13 per cent<br />

compared with 2019 and 84 per<br />

cent compared with 2020.<br />

Overall, the company recorded<br />

revenue of DKK5.2 billion<br />

($AU1.1 billion) for the quarter –<br />

an 84 per cent increase compared<br />

with the same period in 2020 and<br />

13 per cent above the second<br />

quarter of 2019, prior to the<br />

COVID-19 pandemic.<br />

The positive results follow the<br />

launch of Pandora’s new strategic<br />

initiative, Phoenix, at the end of<br />

the first quarter.<br />

Meanwhile, following some<br />

time in the doldrums, Pandora’s<br />

share price on the NASDAQ<br />

Copenhagen had rebounded to<br />

DKK761 at the time of publication<br />

– up from DKK455 at the same<br />

time last year.<br />

The company’s share price was<br />

well above its ‘COVID low’ of<br />

DKK203 on 13 March 2020 and<br />

consistently trading near its 2017<br />

peak of more than DKK900.

Sydney and Melbourne lockdowns bite into July jewellery sales<br />

New sales data compiled by Retail Edge Consultants<br />

indicates jewellery sales in dollar and number terms<br />

declined between June and July, likely due to enforced<br />

store closures across Sydney and Melbourne.<br />

The extended lockdown of greater Sydney and<br />

a two-week snap lockdown in Melbourne in<br />

July have impacted jewellery sales in dollar<br />

and number terms, bringing to an end more<br />

than eight months of upward momentum.<br />

When compared with June <strong>2021</strong>, overall<br />

sales declined from $12.7 million to $11.4<br />

million, and were 14 per cent lower than in<br />

July 2020, according to data compiled by<br />

Retail Edge Consultants.<br />

"When compared with June <strong>2021</strong>, overall sales<br />

declined from $12.7 million to $11.4 million,<br />

and were 14 per cent lower than in July 2020"<br />

Sales fell across all jewellery categories,<br />

with the most significant decrease in silver<br />

and alternative metal jewellery, which declined<br />

by 24.8 per cent when compared with the<br />

previous month and 19 per cent compared<br />

with July 2020.<br />

However, overall jewellery sales in dollar terms<br />

increased 4.3 per cent when compared with<br />

2019, while average sale price (inventory only)<br />

was 34 per cent higher than in July 2019.<br />

Michael Dyer, sales manager at Retail Edge,<br />

noted in the report, “Although the figures are<br />

a little clouded by the number of stores with<br />

limited trading in July, the picture does show<br />

customers are still buying bigger ticket items<br />

than last July.”<br />

The best performing category in sales dollars<br />

was no-stone precious metal jewellery, which<br />

increased 45 per cent when compared with<br />

July 2019 and remained flat compared with<br />

2020, followed by diamond-set precious metal<br />

jewellery which increased 19 per cent over<br />

two years.<br />

Dyer added, “With the calendar turning<br />

over into August you should be well into the<br />

planning, if not the placing of orders for the<br />

lead into Christmas.”<br />

He suggested retailers conduct a strategic<br />

review of the best-performing product<br />

categories over the past 12 months ahead of<br />

the all-important buying season, as well as<br />

under-performing categories.<br />

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Bigger is better for Lightbox labcreated<br />

diamonds<br />

De Beers-owned Lightbox Jewelry has announced it is expanding into two-carat<br />

blue, pink, and white lab-created diamond jewellery..<br />

Lightbox, the De Beers-owned lab-created diamond fashion jewellery<br />

business, has announced that it will now manufacture and sell larger stones,<br />

while maintaining its $US800 per carat pricing model.<br />

From October, Lightbox will offer pink, blue and white lab-grown diamonds in<br />

sizes up to and including two carats, with a 2-carat round brilliant lab-grown<br />

diamond pendant retailing for $US1,600 plus the cost of setting. Previously,<br />

Lightbox pieces were limited to one carat.<br />

The company also announced it is further expanding its product range with the<br />

launch of 'Finest', a new line which it describes as, “superior quality Lightbox<br />

lab-grown diamonds, priced well-below what is currently offered in the market.”<br />

The Finest product line comes courtesy of a new proprietary diamond<br />

engineering process developed by the De Beers-owned lab-created<br />

diamond manufacturer Element Six. It combines existing chemical vapour<br />

deposition (CVD) technology with a further refinement process that<br />

enhances colour in stones. Element Six opened a new, advanced $US94<br />

million factory in the US state of Oregon in October 2020.<br />

Steve Coe, CEO Lightbox, said, "These exciting new introductions represent<br />

our continued commitment to innovation.<br />

“Our incredible team continues to push the boundaries on lab-grown diamond<br />

engineering technology and thanks to our 50 years of experience, pioneering<br />

approach, IP portfolio and state-of-the-art manufacturing facility we have the<br />

capability to now take the next steps in expanding our lab-grown diamond<br />

product range to include stones of larger size and even higher qualities.”<br />

Coe told US publication JCK Online that Lightbox expanded its product<br />

offering in response to consumer demand for bigger stones, noting its pair of<br />

1-carat lab-created diamond studs have sold well.<br />

He added that Pandora Jewelry’s recent introduction of a lab-created<br />

diamond line aligns with where Lightbox sees the “long-term opportunity<br />

for lab-grown: the ability to sell at an accessible price point.” The jewellery<br />

giant launched its first collection set exclusively with lab-created diamonds,<br />

‘Pandora Brilliance’, in May, while announcing plans to phase out natural<br />

diamonds from its product lines.<br />

Coe also commented on Lightbox’s sales figures, noting its 2020 revenue was<br />

up 50 per cent compared with the prior year and <strong>2021</strong> revenue is expected to<br />

triple the 2020 figure.<br />

The new, larger lab-created diamond jewellery will be available to purchase<br />

via the Lightbox website in late October and a broader rollout to both bricksand-mortar<br />

and online retail stockists is planned for early 2022. Launched<br />

in <strong>September</strong> 2018, Lightbox jewellery was initially only available to the<br />

US market, however it is now distributed in 75 countries via e-commerce,<br />

including Australia.<br />




Buying group announces strong profits and returns for members<br />

Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s has announced positive financial<br />

results for the year, with $3 million refunded to members<br />

as part of its profit-sharing model.<br />

The Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s buying group has<br />

announced positive financial results for FY2019-<br />

2020 and FY2020-21, with a total of $3 million<br />

repaid to its members across Australasia.<br />

The results exceeded expectations, with Jorge<br />

Joaquim, chief financial officer, Showcase<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s, saying the group’s profits had “almost<br />

doubled” in FY2020-21 compared with the<br />

previous financial year.<br />

Joaquim attributed Showcase’s performance<br />

to a number of factors during the COVID-19<br />

pandemic: “The government provided various<br />

types of assistance to businesses and<br />

individuals... So much money in the [local]<br />

economy led to a spending spree, including<br />

the jewellery industry. Just like many other<br />

businesses, our profits were beyond our<br />

expectations,” he told <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

In a statement announcing the financial<br />

results, Showcase management said the<br />

buying group had "held steadfast in providing<br />

consistent support to its members over the<br />

past 12 months, while many members in turn<br />

have persevered through trials to thrive in<br />

unprecedented times.”<br />

During the 2020-21 financial year, the buying<br />

group implemented a three-month period<br />

without charging members and distributed<br />

refunds totalling $1 million from members’<br />

‘trading loan’ pool of funds.<br />

As Australasia’s only member-owned jewellery<br />

buying group, Showcase charges a 1 per cent<br />

fee on purchases which fund the trading loan,<br />

with all profits distributed to members annually;<br />

each member’s trading loan balance is fully<br />

refunded once they retire from Showcase.<br />

With retailers in NSW and Victoria currently<br />

impacted by extended lockdowns, Joaquim<br />

said Showcase management was “evaluating<br />

the situation in key COVID-19 areas to assess<br />

members’ needs and will take action accordingly<br />

for specific cases”. As at 1 December 2020,<br />

Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s had 159 members across<br />

Australia, New Zealand and Vanuatu.<br />

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harperandrowe.com.au<br />


Kiwi jewellery brand moves across ‘the ditch’<br />

Pride Brands has taken over distribution of Kagi<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y, with stock to be held in Australia instead<br />

of New Zealand.<br />

Pride Brands has secured the Australian<br />

distribution for high-profile New Zealand<br />

jewellery brand Kagi. Founded in 2005, Kagi’s<br />

range includes unique and interchangeable<br />

pendants, necklaces, bracelets and earrings.<br />

Paul McCarthy, group brand manager Pride<br />

Brands, believes the brand is “a good fit” with<br />

the supplier's existing brands.<br />

“Kagi has always had a big following with<br />

customers in Australia but it hasn’t been<br />

represented locally here for many years.<br />

"Since the business was sold in 2018, the new<br />

owners in New Zealand have returned the brand<br />

to its core designs that offer statement jewellery<br />

pieces that are easily interchanged to create<br />

different looks and styles,” McCarthy said.<br />

McCarthy told <strong>Jeweller</strong> that Kagi stock will<br />

now be held in Australia instead of New<br />

Zealand, which should enable local retailers<br />

to receive orders more quickly and cut out the<br />

“time zone challenges”.<br />

Kagi has more than 80 stockists across<br />

Australasia and McCarthy said Pride Brands<br />

would fully service the brand in Australia, adding<br />

that “previous stockists of Kagi will be given the<br />

first option of stocking the brand in their area”<br />

He added, “We also believe the decision to<br />

return Kagi to the original, versatile designs<br />

that everyone knows and loves will be rewarded<br />

by the brand’s loyal customers [and we] saw<br />

Kagi as being a good fit and point-of-difference<br />

to our existing stable of jewellery brands<br />

from Germany – Engelsrufer, Save Brave and<br />

Herzengel.”<br />

Pride Brands took over Australian distribution of<br />

the three German brands in <strong>September</strong> 2020.<br />

Engelsrufer’s flagship design is a sterling silver<br />

basket pendant that can hold interchangeable<br />

‘sound balls’. Herzengel is a range of sterling<br />

silver jewellery for children, while Save Brave<br />

is a boutique range of men's jewellery and<br />

accessories, including chains, leather necklaces<br />

and bracelets and steel bracelets.

On The Market<br />

1 2 3<br />

4<br />

5<br />


Product<br />

Spotlight<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>’s special snapshot<br />

of the latest jewellery and<br />

watches to hit the market.<br />

6 7<br />

8<br />

1 ELLENDALE DIAMONDS Created to capture your individuality and beauty, this three-band ring is crafted in 18-carat white and rose gold and set with shimmering white diamonds and stunning Argyle pink<br />

diamonds, radiating sophistication. 2 ROAMER | West End Collection The Competence Skeleton III is a brilliant example of precision and a clear design language. The 43mm stainless steel case features an<br />

open, skeleton dial creating a window into the fascinating movement beneath. 3 IKECHO AUSTRALIA The 9-carat Keshi Diamond Pendant from the Baroque Collection features an 18mm+ freshwater keshi<br />

pearl delicately set in yellow gold studded with white diamonds. 4 THOMAS SABO | Duraflex Group Australia Thomas Sabo’s Charming Collection presents a range of new filigree creations, with playful,<br />

sparkling padlock and key symbols across ear studs, rings, and necklaces. 5 UNODE50 | Timesupply New to the exciting and dynamic handmade Spanish brand UNOde50 is the Dazzle Collection, studded<br />

with sparkling European crystals. 6 KAGI | Pride Brands The Kagi Elyssian Pendant has its own unique aura. Brushed steel and rose gold plating combine beautifully to create a stunning statement piece.<br />

7 EFVA ATTLING STOCKHOLM | Nordic Fusion The Women Power Earrings by Efva Attling Stockholm pay tribute to all women, formed in a sterling silver W and stamped with the word ‘power’. 8 DORA | RJ<br />

Scanlan & Co. Dora’s new Tantalum Collection is raising eyebrows – and sales. The dark grey metal is a similar weight to platinum and versatile, stretching up to three sizes, with a great price-point.

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10 Years Ago<br />

Time Machine: <strong>September</strong> 2011<br />

A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

Historic Headlines<br />

4 Hong Kong jewellery fair closes amid caution<br />

4 Diamond investment funds stretch to Aus<br />

4 Local jeweller to judge global competition<br />

4 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s 'tickled pink' at gem sale<br />

4 Diamond rings now a bride's choice<br />

New jewellery fair for Sydney?<br />

Only one week after the JAA signed a new<br />

five-year agreement with jewellery trade fair<br />

organiser, Expertise Events, a new fair has been<br />

announced for Sydney.<br />

The Intermedia Group, the publishing house<br />

behind <strong>Jeweller</strong>y World magazine, announced the<br />

launch of a rival jewellery exhibition, set to kick-off<br />

in 2012. The proposed fair – entitled the <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

World Show – will take place only one week<br />

before the official JAA International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair,<br />

<strong>September</strong> 2-4, 2012, of which <strong>Jeweller</strong> is the<br />

official media partner.<br />

For JAA chairman Peter Beever, the<br />

announcement came as something of a surprise.<br />

“We are not sure why there is a need for a second<br />

Sydney fair and we’re not confident that the<br />

industry could support a second event at the same<br />

time as our [JAA] fair,” he told <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

Tiffany may become<br />

takeover target<br />

The respected financial news website, Bloomberg<br />

has reported that Tiffany & Co. could become a<br />

takeover target after its profit-sharing alliance<br />

with Swatch Group was recently terminated.<br />

With the breakup of the Swatch deal, Tiffany<br />

may now lure interest from luxury groups Moët<br />

Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Financiere Richemont.<br />

Jon Cox, a Zürich-based analyst for Kepler<br />

Capital Markets, told Bloomberg, “If someone<br />

like a Richemont, another watch company,<br />

wanted to take over Tiffany’s, that would have<br />

caused complications [because of the Swatch<br />

partnership]."<br />

According to data compiled by Bloomberg, Tiffany<br />

could command a 40 per cent premium in the<br />

event of an acquisition.<br />

<strong>September</strong> 2011<br />

ON THE COVER SAMS Group Australia<br />

Editor’s Desk<br />

4Pointless Polls Produce Meaningless<br />

Statistics:“Did you recently read an article<br />

about how 86 per cent of people are<br />

“dubious about purchasing jewellery<br />

online” and that 43.8 per cent of people<br />

“wouldn’t buy jewellery online”? I hope<br />

you didn’t, as the statistics most likely<br />

came from a voodoo poll.<br />

"What worries me more than banal<br />

online polls is that many in the jewellery<br />

industry try tricking themselves into<br />

believing that online retailers don’t offer<br />

a genuine alternative for consumers."<br />

Soapbox<br />

4Old School vs New School: “My own<br />

degree, which was endorsed by the<br />

JAA, offered an alternative training<br />

and educational model to the<br />

apprenticeship system and covered<br />

both design and manufacturing skills.<br />

Imagine my shock, therefore, when<br />

I returned to my home state of<br />

Tasmania to find potential employers<br />

were reluctant to recognise my<br />

degree. Some modern courses are<br />

in fact better equipped to prepare<br />

students for work than the traditional<br />

apprenticeship."<br />

– Emily Snadden, jeweller<br />


Age and Experience:<br />

Young jewellers face no shortages in<br />

skills training courses and degree options<br />

– whether they adequately prepare them<br />

for, or necessarily propel them into, a<br />

paying career in the jewellery industry<br />

is questionable, however... Despite there<br />

being many creative avenues for young<br />

jewellers, many still struggle in getting<br />

established and obtaining entry-level jobs<br />

after training.<br />

Indian suitor tipped for<br />

Zamels <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

Sydney-based private-equity firm Quadrant<br />

is considering the sale of The <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

Group, parent company 101 Zamels and 26<br />

Mazzuchellis stores.<br />

Quadrant acquired the business in March<br />

2007 from the Zamel family and recently<br />

began looking to find an overseas buyer. While<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>’s sources ruled out New Zealand's<br />

James Pascoe, reports indicate an India-based<br />

company is currently undertaking due diligence.<br />

If a new sale proceeds, Quadrant is tipped to be<br />

offloading the group for less than $20 million – a<br />

loss of $30 million in just over four years.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s squeeze shopping<br />

centres over rent<br />

Retail giant Premier Investments has thrown<br />

down the gauntlet to shopping centre landlords<br />

in a bid to reduce rents, but some jewellery<br />

retailers have already begun the process.<br />

Following a tumble in profits, the retail<br />

powerhouse behind fashion clothing<br />

brands including Just Jeans, Jay Jays and<br />

Portmans threatened to close as many as<br />

50 under-performing stores if shopping<br />

centre landlords don’t 'come to the party' on<br />

rent reviews.<br />

Pressure from a major retail player to reduce<br />

rents could conceivably deliver a much-needed<br />

knock-on effect for jewellers suffering under<br />

exorbitant rents but some jewellery chains have<br />

already demanded rent reductions.<br />



28 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>



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INSIDE<br />

My Store<br />

Steve Pallas Bespoke <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

MELBOURNE, VIC with Steve Pallas, director and master jeweller • SPACE COMPLETED June <strong>2021</strong><br />

4Who is the target market and how did they<br />

influence the store design?<br />

Anybody who wants bespoke jewellery<br />

design, whether it be jewellery remodelling,<br />

diamond engagement rings, antique jewellery<br />

restoration etcetera.<br />

We tend to attract the customers who have the<br />

wildest ideas and the most challenging jobs that<br />

other jewellers might not take.<br />

Specifically, our customers appreciate quality,<br />

design, honesty and integrity.<br />

This is reflected in the store – we are always<br />

striving for the best, constantly updating and<br />

making changes to our showroom, and are<br />

currently renovating our workshop too.<br />

4With the relationship between store<br />

ambience and consumer purchasing in mind,<br />

which features in the store encourage sales?<br />

Our focus isn’t to encourage sales, as such – 90<br />

per cent of our customers find us through wordof-mouth<br />

– but rather to allow the customer to<br />

be comfortable enough to purchase and to help<br />

them make an informed decision about their<br />

special piece.<br />

I strive to educate the customer first, so they know<br />

exactly what they’re purchasing – allowing them<br />

to view, try and hold.<br />

Providing 3D CAD and/or 3D resin printing<br />

on-site also gives our customers reassurance,<br />

allowing them to get a clearer idea of the<br />

final product.<br />

4What is the store design’s ‘wow factor’?<br />

It is definitely our custom indoor and outdoor<br />

signage, which reflects the new name and<br />

branding of the store.<br />

As the store is located in the basement of a<br />

heritage-listed building on Melbourne’s iconic<br />

Hardware Lane, we couldn’t change the exterior.<br />

Instead, we invested in an amazing custom-made<br />

bronze sign which helps us stand out and attracts<br />

shoppers downstairs to our store.<br />

30 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

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INSIDE<br />

Now & Then<br />

Smales <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

Celebrating 84 Years • PERTH, BUNBURY, GERALDTON, KARRATHA AND KALGOORLIE, WA • A moment with Tony Smales, owner & manager<br />


1937<br />

Ron Smales Sr opens<br />

Smales Watch & Clock<br />

Repairs at the rear of his<br />

family’s suburban home<br />

in Kalgoorlie<br />

L to R: Ron Smales Sr and his apprentice at the first Smales <strong>Jeweller</strong>s showroom on Hannan Street,<br />

Kalgoorlie; Shanaya King models the Gold Nugget Collection.<br />

Smales <strong>Jeweller</strong>s is one of Western<br />

Australia’s oldest jewellers and<br />

watchmakers, and with this age comes<br />

precision and history – all beginning with<br />

Thomas Smales, the father of founder<br />

Ron Smales Sr.<br />

Coming from the trade of stonemasonry,<br />

Thomas fixed mantel and wall clocks with<br />

his son, who went on to establish a small<br />

business at the family home in Kalgoorlie.<br />

Ron later worked as an instrument maker<br />

for the Royal Australian Air Force’s 451<br />

Squadron, fixing crashed aircraft in the<br />

Middle East during World War II.<br />

After the war, Ron formalised his<br />

qualifications and completed a watchmaking<br />

apprenticeship in Perth, before opening<br />

his ‘watchmaking jewellery store’ back home<br />

in Kalgoorlie.<br />

When Ron retired, his son – my brother Ron<br />

Smales Jr – took over the Kalgoorlie store<br />

and later expanded the business to a second<br />

location in Subiaco, Perth in 1989.<br />

With the success of the Subiaco store,<br />

Ron Jr’s name became synonymous with<br />

the Perth luxury watch industry and his<br />

lively personality well-known on the Perth<br />

social scene.<br />

Over the following years, Smales <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

opened an additional three stores across<br />

the state and three jewellery workshops in<br />

Subiaco, Kalgoorlie and Bunbury.<br />

Within any business – especially a family<br />

business – death is a great hardship, and<br />

indeed the most recent challenge faced by<br />

Smales <strong>Jeweller</strong>s was Ron Jr passing away<br />

in April 2018.<br />

Smales operations have been continued on<br />

by the family, with ownership bestowed to me<br />

as Ron’s brother and business partner.<br />

Alongside my wife Trish, I manage the<br />

Bunbury store and regularly travel to all<br />

the Smales <strong>Jeweller</strong>s locations, especially<br />

Perth to oversee the Subiaco store and<br />

office operations.<br />

The business continues to celebrate<br />

craftmanship every day through<br />

watchmaking services and jewellery<br />

creations.<br />

Not only does Smales make custom designs,<br />

but also showcases a commitment to<br />

quality with exclusive brands such as Rolex,<br />

Mont Blanc, Grand Seiko and Hearts On<br />

Fire Diamonds, which are on display and<br />

available for purchase in the showrooms.<br />

Most recently, in collaboration with the<br />

West Australian Ballet, we have launched<br />

the Bridal Core Collection which celebrates<br />

the ancestry of the brand and the precision<br />

of ballet.<br />

I have overseen this collection, which has a<br />

signature blue sapphire embedded within<br />

the band of each ring, signifying the quality<br />

and craftmanship we strive to accomplish<br />

with each diamond creation.<br />

Another recent success was our Gold<br />

Nugget Collection, which alongside the<br />

Bridal Core Collection has ensured the<br />

Smales name stands the test of time in the<br />

jewellery industry.<br />

Our Gold Nugget Collection is exclusively<br />

sourced from local prospectors in the<br />

Goldfields area, known the Smales family for<br />

many years.<br />

1952<br />

After completing<br />

his watchmaking<br />

apprenticeship, Ron<br />

establishes a storefront<br />

in Kalgoorlie and six<br />

years later, the business<br />

moves to new premises at<br />

Hannan Street<br />

1976<br />

Ron retires, and the store<br />

is purchased by his son<br />

Ron Smales Jr<br />

1978<br />

New premises are<br />

purchased in Kalgoorlie,<br />

and a state-of-the-art<br />

jewellery store fit out is<br />

completed<br />

1989<br />

Ron Jr acquires acquires<br />

the Subiaco Prestige<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Store and reopens<br />

it as the second<br />

Smales <strong>Jeweller</strong>s location<br />

1990<br />

Ron’s brother Tony<br />

Smales purchases the<br />

Kalgoorlie store<br />

2003<br />

Smales <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

expands into Western<br />

Australia’s second-largest<br />

city, opening a store in<br />

Bunbury; it also becomes<br />

the official and only<br />

Hearts On Fire diamond<br />

retailer in Western<br />

Australia<br />

2007<br />

Tony’s niece Leilani Pop-<br />

Markov and her husband<br />

Sacha join the company<br />

to operate the original<br />

Kalgoorlie store<br />

2016<br />

Smales <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

continues its expansion,<br />

opening its fourth and<br />

fifth stores in Geraldton<br />

and Karratha<br />

Above: The Smales <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Subiaco store, which<br />

has been operating since 1989.<br />

The nuggets are brought into the Subiaco<br />

workshop where the jewellers create<br />

beautiful pieces combining them with<br />

South Sea pearls and/or diamonds.<br />

The most recent ‘face’ of Smales<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s, Shanaya King, is also a<br />

Kalgoorlie local who prospected with her<br />

father when she was growing up; one of<br />

her most treasured possessions is a gold<br />

nugget given to her as a gift from her<br />

father when she was 16.<br />

Smales continues to create gold nugget<br />

pieces for their customers as a part of this<br />

heritage collection.<br />

We are proud of our heritage; we strive to<br />

make sure our goods are of the highest<br />

quality the customer can afford, and while<br />

we have a team of 37, we also do our<br />

best to make sure our staff hold similar<br />

mindsets and enjoy their work.<br />

The future is unpredictable, but the<br />

future of our business will always be to<br />

keep the integrity, quality and values of<br />

Smales <strong>Jeweller</strong>s intact.<br />

Succession means having someone to<br />

pass the business down to and that is the<br />

key to maintaining longevity; my niece<br />

Leilani and her partner have worked<br />

within the business since 2009 and<br />

continue the tradition of family within<br />

Smales <strong>Jeweller</strong>s.<br />

We always strive to deliver the best<br />

service, jewellery and watches while<br />

maintaining the family name.<br />

Read the full length interview<br />

on <strong>Jeweller</strong>magazine.com<br />

32 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

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REVIEW<br />

Gems<br />

Unusual Opal Part I: Fire opal<br />

L to R: Neha Dani ring; Le Vian pendant; Chopard earrings<br />

Below: Lydia Courteille cuff; Tiffany & Co. ring<br />

Opal is famous for the incredible array<br />

of colours displayed, from vibrant reds –<br />

the most prized – to velvety purples and<br />

everything in between.<br />

This is caused by a unique optical<br />

phenomenon known as play-of-colour.<br />

With such incredible opal specimens here<br />

in our backyard, international varieties<br />

are often lesser known and less available.<br />

Fire opal rarely displays play-of-colour,<br />

yet it attracts collectors based on the<br />

body-colour of the stone itself – a primary<br />

distinction from the better-known types<br />

of opal.<br />

Opals with play-of-colour are termed<br />

precious opal, whereas those without are<br />

called common opal. Although fire opal<br />

may be either, the presence of play-ofcolour<br />

commands a higher price.<br />

Fire opal is the transparent to translucent<br />

variety of opal with a yellow, orange,<br />

or even ruby red body-colour, also<br />

known as ‘Mexican opal’ – derived<br />

from the hue and the most well-known<br />

locality of this material.<br />

The regions of Querétaro and Jalisco in<br />

Mexico are major producers of fire opal,<br />

though other regions include Michoacán,<br />

as well as Bemia in Madagascar,<br />

Kazakhstan, Turkey, Ethiopia, Java in<br />

Indonesia, and the US state of Oregon.<br />

The opal localities of Mexico were<br />

discovered accidentally by labourers<br />

around 1835.<br />

Organised mining efforts commenced<br />

circa 1870, although it is believed these<br />

deposits may have been known to the<br />

Mayan and Aztec people who used fire<br />

opal in art and ritualistic ceremonies,<br />

significantly extending the history of<br />

these gemstones.<br />

The vibrant hues are owed to the<br />

presence of particularly minute<br />

inclusions, coloured by iron.<br />

Given that play-of-colour is less<br />

prevalent, and these fire opals are<br />

admired for their body-colour, they are<br />

often faceted rather than just fashioned<br />

into the cabochon or freeform shapes<br />

commonly seen in other types of opal.<br />

Opal is often classified according to<br />

its geological setting, such as the<br />

sedimentary context for Queensland<br />

boulder opal.<br />

Unlike boulder opal, fire opal is volcanic<br />

with some degree of crystallinity – i.e.,<br />

some order to its structure.<br />

Generally, this variety can be up to 66<br />

million years old.<br />

Despite differences in appearance, fire<br />

opal is still hydrated silica – the same<br />

material as other opal – and so it must be<br />

treated delicately.<br />

Clean gently with a toothbrush in warm<br />

soapy water – avoid the ultrasonic. Be<br />

sure to also avoid heating and thermal<br />

shock as this can cause cracking and<br />

crazing in the stone and can even change<br />

the internal structure.<br />

Fire opal<br />

From the Latin opalus<br />

meaning “precious<br />

stone”, and fire, due to<br />

its flame-like colour<br />

Colour: Yellow to<br />

orange and red<br />

Found in: Mexico,<br />

Madagascar, Turkey,<br />

Kazakhstan, Ethiopia,<br />

Indonesia and the US<br />

Mohs Hardness: 5.5–6<br />

Class: Silicate<br />

Lustre: Subvitreous<br />

Formula: SiO 2<br />

.nH 2<br />

O<br />

Being a hydrated material, fire opal<br />

is not to be left in strong light for long<br />

periods of time; otherwise, the stone can<br />

dehydrate and crack.<br />

As with all kinds of opal, fire opal should<br />

be avoided for everyday rings and other<br />

jewellery that is highly exposed for<br />

extended periods of time.<br />

Treatments seen in this variety of<br />

opal include coatings and dyes; some<br />

examples have been known to leak dye<br />

when left immersed in water overnight.<br />

Synthetic opal is not uncommon, nor is it<br />

new in the world of gemstones, and this<br />

is no different for fire opal, which has<br />

synthetic options both with and without<br />

play-of-colour.<br />

A certain type of synthetic, known as<br />

Mexifire, is particularly close to its<br />

natural counterpart in its structure and<br />

its colouring mechanism (traces of iron).<br />

To the astute gemmologist, fine<br />

pinpoint inclusions throughout the<br />

synthetic material is likely to be one<br />

of the most helpful characteristics<br />

for identification.<br />

Mikaelah Egan FGAA Dip DT<br />

began her career in the industry at<br />

Diamonds of Distinction in 2015. She now<br />

balances her role as a gemmologist at<br />

Vault Valuations in Brisbane with studying<br />

geology at the University of Queensland.<br />

Visit instagram.com/mikaelah.egan<br />

<strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 35


White Metals<br />

ARABELLA RODEN explores how<br />

the white metals category is adapting<br />

to an unpredictable market, and<br />

what the future holds.<br />

Molten gold is poured. Image: SHUTTERSTOCK

WHITE METALS FEATURE | The White Side<br />

Facing Page (L to R):<br />

Roberto Coin, Cartier, Georg<br />

Jensen; Bulgari; Fope<br />


White Metal<br />

Trends<br />

A<br />

s a jewellery category, white metals<br />

– platinum, palladium, silver, and<br />

white gold – are impacted not only by<br />

consumer demand, but by a complex interplay of<br />

macroeconomic factors.<br />

The disruption of the COVID-19 pandemic to global<br />

supply chains – particularly in the mining sector – as well<br />

as investor confidence and lowered demand from the<br />

automotive sector, have all led to some volatility in the<br />

white metals market.<br />

“Having suffered steep falls in early 2020 as result of<br />

the global COVID-19 outbreak, precious metal prices<br />

rebounded strongly in the second half of 2020 as the<br />

pandemic triggered stockpiling by investors looking to<br />

protect their wealth,” explains Richard Hayes, CEO<br />

The Perth Mint.<br />

“This, alongside supply deficits, pushed gold prices up<br />

by 25 per cent last year, while silver rose 47 per cent, and<br />

platinum and palladium by 11 per cent and 23 per cent,<br />

respectively.”<br />

Hayes notes that precious metal prices “again trended<br />

higher in early <strong>2021</strong> on a more optimistic economic<br />

footing, before retracing markedly” as a result of economic<br />

policy changes and the Delta variant of COVID-19.<br />

White metal jewellery demand has followed a similar<br />

pattern, with the initial shock of the pandemic waning<br />

around July of 2020 before a sustained period of growth,<br />

later interrupted in mid-<strong>2021</strong> by the Delta variant and<br />

associated lockdowns across NSW and Victoria.<br />

Still, as a diverse category comprising premium priced<br />

platinum, palladium and white gold and affordable<br />

silver, white metals have widespread appeal as well as a<br />

competitive advantage in the high-value bridal sector –<br />

though this too has experienced recurrent disruption as a<br />

result of the pandemic.<br />

Platinum progress<br />

Platinum prices reached a five-year high of $US1,266<br />

per ounce in February <strong>2021</strong>, rising steadily following a<br />

plummet in March 2020 to the lowest level since 2003.<br />

Still, platinum prices remain significantly below that of<br />

gold, palladium, and rhodium – all components in the<br />

manufacture of white gold jewellery.<br />

Rhodium in particular has experienced a “phenomenal<br />

price movement” since January 2019, according to UK<br />

resources firm Johnson Matthey, rising from $US2,300<br />

to $US29,200 per ounce in March <strong>2021</strong>; since May, it has<br />

plateaued at approximately $US15,000 per ounce.<br />

Chris Botha, innovation division manager at Palloys,<br />

observes, “Platinum pricing has had a continuous run<br />

for some time, and while it has slowed a little, jewellers<br />

will be weighing up the additional labour costs of<br />

$29,200<br />

rhodium price per<br />

ounce ($US) in<br />

March <strong>2021</strong>, a record<br />

high and increase of<br />

71% in three months<br />

Business Line<br />

22%<br />

increase in demand<br />

for platinum from<br />

the jewellery sector,<br />

Q1 <strong>2021</strong>, compared<br />

with 2020<br />

World Platinum<br />

Investment Council<br />

20%<br />

of the world's<br />

silver demand<br />

comes from<br />

jewellery<br />

fabrication<br />

Metals Focus<br />

223tn<br />

forecast platinum<br />

supply in <strong>2021</strong>, an<br />

increase of 16%<br />

World Platinum<br />

Investment Council<br />

$2,519<br />

palladium price<br />

per ounce ($US)<br />

in May <strong>2021</strong>, an<br />

all-time peak<br />

Kitco<br />

working in platinum against rapidly having to purchase<br />

rhodium plating.<br />

“The rhodium market is very volatile and has seen steep<br />

increases in pricing over the last 18 months.”<br />

Like palladium, South Africa is the largest producer<br />

of rhodium. It accounts for 80 to 90 per cent of total<br />

global production, which was significantly reduced by<br />

temporary mine closures last year, with the overall<br />

‘rhodium deficit’ – the gulf between supply and<br />

demand – more than doubling.<br />

The unprecedented upward pressure on rhodium<br />

prices is largely from the automotive sector, with<br />

manufacturers in China and Europe utilising the metal<br />

to reduce emissions.<br />

The automotive sector has also buoyed platinum prices,<br />

in tandem with jewellery demand and disrupted supplies,<br />

Hayes notes.<br />

The unprecedented upward<br />

pressure on rhodium<br />

prices is largely from the<br />

automotive sector, with<br />

manufacturers in China and<br />

Europe utilising the metal<br />

to reduce emissions"<br />

According to the World Platinum Investment Council,<br />

jewellery demand for the metal recovered by 22 per cent<br />

in the first quarter of <strong>2021</strong> when compared with the same<br />

period in 2020, driven by China and the US.<br />

In April <strong>2021</strong>, the Council predicted the overall platinum<br />

jewellery market would recover the ground lost in 2020,<br />

rising 13 per cent.<br />

Industry organisation Platinum Guild International (PGI)<br />

tracks demand for platinum jewellery across a number of<br />

retail chains in the key markets of the US, China, Japan,<br />

and India.<br />

Commenting on its first-quarter report, Huw Daniel, CEO<br />

PGI, noted that while jewellery demand could “slow in<br />

some markets as subsequent waves of COVID-19 cloud<br />

the outlook”, there had been “a renewed enthusiasm for<br />

platinum” within the jewellery industry.<br />

“<strong>Jeweller</strong>s are increasingly engaging with this precious<br />

metal, which has been effectively marketed as a metal of<br />

meaning and become important as consumers look for<br />

ways to symbolise and mark occasions in restricted and<br />

unprecedented times,” Daniel said.<br />

Indeed, platinum sales across PGI's key markets were<br />

driven by targeted campaigns promoting branded<br />

platinum collections. In India, historically a far stronger<br />

<strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 37

The White Side | WHITE METALS FEATURE<br />

market for yellow gold, retailers who took part in PGI’s ‘Platinum<br />

Days of Love’ campaign reported a 17 per cent increase in platinum<br />

sales in the first quarter of <strong>2021</strong>.<br />

Locally, Greville Ingham, national sales manager at Peter W Beck,<br />

observes, “The family of white metals has seen popularity recently<br />

and we have especially noted a great demand for platinum jewellery,<br />

in both men’s and ladies’ wedding rings.”<br />

Ingham noted two factors increasing the demand for platinum:<br />

“Platinum is perceived as a rare and more exotic precious metal, so<br />

the current relative affordability has made it accessible to those who<br />

may not have previously considered it,” he explains.<br />

“The second factor drawing customers to platinum is the qualities of<br />

high purity – platinum being a hypoallergenic metal and a naturally<br />

strong white colour without the need for plating.”<br />

As the most affordable member of the<br />

precious white metal category, silver has<br />

consistently maintained a stable level of<br />

demand in the market"<br />

Ingham adds, “In terms of the white metal market, the relative price<br />

difference of platinum to white gold has lately made platinum a<br />

popular choice. We see that this pricing will be an influencing factor<br />

for some time.”<br />

At Chemgold, director Darren Sher has observed “a slight increase<br />

in 9-carat and 14-carat white gold as well as platinum being ordered<br />

– this of course due to the higher palladium cost pushing up the cost<br />

of 18-carat white gold.”<br />

Sher adds, “Overall, the price increase in palladium has resulted in<br />

customers utilising lower-carat white gold as well as platinum quite<br />

often; however, having said that, the majority of our clients prefer<br />

18-carat white gold or platinum for the white metal jewellery.”<br />

Showing the strength of white metal demand, Botha told <strong>Jeweller</strong>,<br />

“Our sales data shows the spread of sales in 18-carat golds to be<br />

50 per cent yellow gold, 35 per cent white, and the balance rose gold.<br />

"However, by weight value if we add platinum – which nearly<br />

matches yellow gold for sales – definitively, the white metals are<br />

selling better.”<br />

In refining terms, the figures echoed the sales data with Botha<br />

noting “increases in white gold and platinum refining, with sporadic<br />

large bursts of platinum refining, as jewellers<br />

opt to save more of the white metal until<br />

there is enough for a larger refining job.”<br />

He added, “Our sweep<br />

and four-metal recovery<br />

services have seen a<br />

significant increase<br />

as jewellers want to<br />

recover the palladium and<br />

platinum from their small<br />

lemel and sweeps.”<br />

Proudly distributed by<br />

At Chemgold, demand for both<br />

two-metal (gold and silver)<br />

and four-metal (gold, silver,<br />

palladium, and platinum) and<br />

platinum refining had remained<br />

stable when compared to<br />

previous years.<br />

Nomination<br />

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A L L O Y S<br />

P R O M<br />

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P<br />

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The White Side | WHITE METALS FEATURE<br />


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100m Water Resistant<br />

AUD $649<br />

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Rose Gold Chronograph<br />

100m Water Resistant<br />

AUD $589<br />

Meanwhile, the Peter W Beck precious metal refining division is now<br />

refining more platinum and palladium “than ever”.<br />

“We have certainly seen those wishing to refine here in Australia<br />

directing these metals to us – platinum and palladium require<br />

specialist knowledge and techniques to recover,” says Ingham.<br />

Silver in the spotlight<br />

L to R: Van Cleef & Arpels; Thomas Sabo<br />

As the most affordable member of the precious white metal<br />

category, silver has consistently maintained a stable level of demand<br />

in the market.<br />

Between 2010 and 2019, the year-on-year change in demand for<br />

silver jewellery averaged 5 per cent, compared with 9 per cent for<br />

gold jewellery, according to the World Silver Survey <strong>2021</strong> report<br />

published by The Silver Institute and Metals Focus, an independent<br />

precious metals research firm.<br />

Worldwide, silver jewellery fabrication accounts for approximately<br />

one-fifth of worldwide demand for the metal and the Silver Five<br />

Year Forecasting Quarterly report, also authored by Metals Focus,<br />

predicts this will rise to a quarter of total demand by the mid-2020s.<br />

From a manufacturing perspective, Botha says, “There has always<br />

been high demand for silver, and as a more affordable metal, it saw<br />

big growth in Australia [in the past year] due to many manufacturers<br />

bringing that production back on-shore to offset the shipping issues<br />

the world has endured since the onset of the pandemic.”<br />

At Palloys, “scientific silver” – used for industrial, research, and<br />

medical applications – also led to an increase in demand for “highend”<br />

refining services.<br />

The Perth Mint’s Hayes observed a surge in demand for refined<br />

silver “investment products”, such as bullion, in the first and<br />

second quarters of <strong>2021</strong> due to a rally in the silver price – though he<br />

notes that the price per ounce has since “suffered several bouts of<br />

weakness in recent months”.<br />

“Silver has been struggling to regain momentum, as growing<br />

concerns over the highly contagious Delta variant sparked a sell-off<br />

across industrial commodities,” he adds.<br />

www.westendcollection.com.au<br />

info@westendcollection.com.au<br />

Ph: 03 9553 3777<br />

Silver prices remain relatively high from a historical perspective; it

The White Side | WHITE METALS FEATURE<br />

PRECIOUS METAL PRICES 2016 – <strong>2021</strong><br />



2,500<br />

2,000<br />

PALLADIUM USD/oz 2,346.00<br />

PLATINUM USD/oz 1,006.00<br />

1,200<br />

1,100<br />

1,000<br />

900<br />

1,500<br />

800<br />

1,000<br />

500<br />

700<br />

600<br />

500<br />

2017 Jul 2018 Jul 2019 Jul 2020 Jul <strong>2021</strong> Jul<br />

2017 Jul 2018 Jul 2019 Jul 2020 Jul <strong>2021</strong> Jul<br />

2000 2002 2004 2006 2008 2010 2012 2014 2016 2018 2020<br />

2000 2002 2004 2006 2008 2010 2012 2014 2016 2018 2020<br />



SILVER USD/oz 23.98<br />

RHODIUM USD/oz 16,400.00<br />

25,000<br />

25<br />

20,000<br />

20<br />

15,000<br />

10,000<br />

15<br />

5,000<br />

10<br />

0<br />

Jul Jul Jul Jul<br />

2017 2018 2019 2020 <strong>2021</strong> Jul<br />

2017 Jul 2018 Jul 2019 Jul 2020 Jul <strong>2021</strong> Jul<br />

2000 2002 2004 2006 2008 2010 2012 2014 2016 2018 2020<br />

2000 2002 2004 2006 2008 2010 2012 2014 2016 2018 2020<br />

Source: Kitco. All prices in $US per ounce<br />



Australian leading wholesaler, specialising in manufacturing<br />

9ct and 18ct yellow gold, rose gold and white gold.<br />

Machine made and hand made, any kind, chains and bracelets,<br />

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P: 03 9650 5955 | E: sales@millenniumchain.com.au<br />


CHART E: SILVER & ALTERNATIVE METALS SALES – JAN-JUL <strong>2021</strong><br />

% increase (Year on Year) % increase (vs 2019)<br />

60<br />

40<br />

20<br />

0<br />

-20<br />

Jan '21 Feb '21 Mar '21 Apr '21 May '21 Jun '21 Jul '21<br />

Source: Retail Edge Consultants.<br />

Reflects increase and decrease<br />

of sales in dollar terms. July<br />

figures impacted by lockdowns<br />

in NSW and Victoria<br />

IP3556N-9YG<br />

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IP82-G014-9Y<br />

increased 137 per cent during 2020, compared with gold’s 38 per cent.<br />

Yet from a jewellery perspective, consumers Western markets such as<br />

Australia tend not to be influenced as strongly by fluctuations in the<br />

silver price – particularly when compared with gold.<br />

Silver jewellery also enjoy other benefits; the World Silver Survey <strong>2021</strong><br />

notes that the shift toward e-commerce is generally “positive as silver<br />

jewellery’s price points work well in an online space”.<br />

This shift was pronounced in Australia over the course of the pandemic,<br />

with Australia Post’s <strong>2021</strong> Inside Australian Online Shopping report<br />

noting that e-commerce spending increased by 57 per cent in the 12<br />

months to 31 December 2020.<br />

Potentially indicating strong consumer demand for silver jewellery are<br />

recent financial results announced by Pandora, the world’s largest<br />

jewellery producer by volume.<br />

The company refers to 925 sterling silver as its ‘signature metal’<br />

and utilises an estimated 340 tonnes of silver per year across its<br />

product lines.<br />

Pandora recently upgraded its forecast for the year, following promising<br />

financial results and citing a robust recovery in the US which is also the<br />

largest market for sterling silver jewellery by value.<br />

In the Australian market, the silver and alternative metals jewellery<br />

category has seen double-digit increases in sales dollars every month<br />

from January to June this year when compared with 2020, according to<br />

data from Retail Edge Consultants.<br />

Even taking into account the impact of the extended COVID-19<br />

lockdowns across Victoria and NSW in July, Retail Edge’s data – drawn<br />

from more than 400 stores – indicated sales in this category were still<br />

6 per cent higher than in July 2019.<br />

However, the ongoing and unpredictable COVID-19 pandemic is likely to<br />

continue to weigh on both supply and demand for silver jewellery, and<br />

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The White Side | WHITE METALS FEATURE<br />



Left: Cobalt, used in<br />

a number of white<br />

metal alloys including<br />

platinum alloys.<br />

Below: Working at the<br />

Palloys Fabricated<br />

Metals Division.<br />

A notable trend in the white metals market has been an emphasis on alloys and<br />

mixed designs in order to manage costs.<br />

“We have noticed that a lot more two-tone designs are being made, utilising rose<br />

and yellow gold for shanks and accents to lower the cost. However, the setting is<br />

always in a white alloy,” Chemgold’s Darren Sher tells <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

He adds, “With respect to this we have also observed a minor trend in mixed carat,<br />

such as an 18-carat yellow or rose gold shank with a 9 or 14-carat white gold setting,<br />

again to reduce cost for the customer but keeping a similar effect.”<br />

At Palloys, Botha observes, “The Fabricated Metals division of Palloys has always<br />

had a very large assortment of alloys on offer to a typically niche market, however,<br />

the introduction of the Alloy Properties pages on the new website, located under the<br />

Resources tab, have stirred up great interest in these ‘old-but-new-again’ alloys<br />

like palladium silver.”<br />

Botha also notes an increase in demand for Argentium Pro 935, which combines<br />

93.5 per cent silver with germanium to produce a low-maintenance, non-tarnish<br />

silver alloy that does not display firescale during production.<br />

At Chemgold, the 18-carat white gold 18W132 alloy “continues to be very popular”<br />

given higher palladium prices.<br />

“With 13.2 per cent PGMs [platinum group metals] it is a very good alloy and on<br />

average 10 per cent less expensive than the traditional 18-carat white gold with 15<br />

per cent palladium,” Sher explains.<br />

“The metal is still premium white, hard wearing and great for polishing,” he adds.<br />

Ingham predicts that consumer tastes may also<br />

shift away from white metals in general.<br />

“We have seen white metals enjoying popularity<br />

over the last three to five years, but in the cyclical<br />

nature of the market, we are predicting to again<br />

see popularity of yellow gold jewellery emerging<br />

in due course,” he tells <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

Generational appeal<br />

While yellow gold has seen an undeniable<br />

resurgence in the market in recent years,<br />

some industry commentators have noted<br />

a generational divide of demand between<br />

Millennials and Gen Z, the latter of which<br />

appears to prefer white metals.<br />

In a 2019 survey of 18,000 consumers across six<br />

international markets, the World Gold Council<br />

found that “gold jewellery resonates less well<br />

with younger consumers, most notably the 18-22<br />

Gen Zs.<br />

"The connection to gold’s emotional heritage is<br />

weaker among this group.”<br />

Intriguingly, this trend was particularly<br />

pronounced in the Chinese market, with the<br />

report noting, “They are considerably less likely<br />

than Gen Z consumers in other markets to have<br />

bought gold jewellery in the last year – 18 per<br />

cent compared with 26 per cent globally.<br />

"And only 31 per cent of them agree that wearing<br />

gold helps them to fit in with their friends,<br />

compared with 46 per cent at a global level.”<br />

In contrast, Millennial attitudes toward gold<br />

jewellery were “not significantly different to those<br />

of older generations”.<br />

While yellow gold has seen<br />

an undeniable resurgence in<br />

the market in recent years,<br />

some industry commentators<br />

have noted a generational<br />

divide of demand between<br />

Millennials and Gen Z, the<br />

latter of which appears to<br />

prefer white metals"<br />

Research conducted by Platinum Guild<br />

International found that younger Chinese<br />

consumers strongly preferred platinum jewellery.<br />

“In China, platinum is most popular among Gen<br />

Z and Millennials aged between 18 and 45 – the<br />

future driver of jewellery consumption,” the<br />

report noted.<br />

“Younger Chinese consumers prefer platinum<br />

in jewellery not only to signify relationship<br />

milestones such as engagement rings, wedding<br />

bands and anniversary bands, but in a range of<br />

non-bridal types of jewellery, such as fashion<br />

rings, necklaces, earrings and chains.”<br />

These findings were echoed in De Beers’ 2018<br />

Diamond Insight Report, entitled Millennials<br />

and Gen Z: Capturing the Opportunity, which<br />

noted that 96 per cent of bridal rings acquired by<br />

Chinese women contained platinum, while just<br />

4 per cent contained gold.<br />

Worldwide, white metals still dominate the bridal<br />

market. In the US, white gold remained the most<br />

popular choice for engagement rings at 45 per<br />

cent, followed by silver at 19 per cent, according<br />

to the De Beers report.<br />

As Gen Z – currently aged between 11 and 25 –<br />

further ages into the engagement and marriage<br />

bracket, it is likely that white metals will continue<br />

to enjoy a competitive edge in the bridal category.<br />

With thousands of weddings delayed by<br />

lockdowns across Australia, jewellers may be<br />

well-placed to take advantage with white metal<br />

offerings designed to cater to these consumers<br />

in the future.<br />

In the meantime, the affordability of silver and<br />

its resilience and consistency add to the overall<br />

strength of the white metals category.<br />

44 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

L to R: David Yurman; Fope<br />

Chris Botha<br />

Palloys<br />

“Our sales data shows<br />

the spread of sales in<br />

18-carat golds to be 50<br />

per cent yellow gold,<br />

35 per cent white, and<br />

the balance rose gold.<br />

However, by weight<br />

value if we add platinum,<br />

the white metals are<br />

selling better.”<br />


Key Points<br />

Rhodium<br />

rollercoaster<br />

The volatile<br />

rhodium market<br />

has seen prices<br />

surge to dizzying<br />

highs this year<br />

Carat drop<br />

Greville Ingham<br />

Peter W Beck<br />

Darren Sher<br />

Chemgold<br />

“The family of white<br />

metals has seen<br />

popularity recently<br />

and we have especially<br />

noted a great demand<br />

for platinum jewellery,<br />

in both men’s and<br />

ladies’ wedding rings.”<br />

"Overall, the price<br />

increase in palladium has<br />

resulted in customers<br />

utilising lower-carat<br />

white gold as well as<br />

platinum quite often;<br />

however, having said that,<br />

the majority of our clients<br />

prefer 18-carat white gold<br />

or platinum for the<br />

white metal jewellery."<br />

Due to high<br />

palladium prices,<br />

some jewellers<br />

are opting for<br />

lower-carat white<br />

gold alloys or<br />

mixed-carat<br />

designs<br />

Stable silver<br />

Silver demand<br />

remains<br />

consistent and<br />

is relatively<br />

unaffected by<br />

price changes<br />

Platinum<br />

push<br />

The pure, bright<br />

metal is enjoying<br />

robust demand<br />

locally and<br />



Local Talent<br />


The Timekeeper<br />

Pendant<br />

Metal: Re-purposed<br />

from early 1930s<br />

Waltham USA watch,<br />

stainless steel<br />

Gemstone: Opal<br />

Angus & Aaron Zhao<br />

Sydney, NSW<br />



Double Band<br />

Buttercup Lemon<br />

Quartz Ring<br />

Metal: 18-carat<br />

yellow gold<br />

Gemstones:<br />

White diamond,<br />

lemon quartz<br />

Natasha & Alex<br />

Chipman<br />

Fortitude Valley, QLD<br />

and Sydney, NSW<br />


The Gardener<br />

Earrings<br />

Metal: 9-carat<br />

yellow gold<br />

Gemstone: Ruby<br />

Maeve Woodhouse<br />

Auckland, NZ<br />

Australia and New Zealand are not only home to some of the rarest<br />

gemstones in the world, but also the most talented jewellers and<br />

designers. <strong>Jeweller</strong> showcases a tapestry of local masterpieces,<br />

meticulously crafted with great artisanship right here on home soil<br />


Kaleidoscope Rainbow<br />

Half Band Rings<br />

Metal: 14-carat yellow gold<br />

Gemstones: Emerald, citrine,<br />

sapphire, amethyst<br />

Lucie Ferguson<br />

Sydney, NSW<br />


Rhapsody Golden<br />

Topaz Earrings<br />

Metal: 18-carat<br />

yellow gold<br />

Gemstones: Golden<br />

topaz, champagne<br />

diamond<br />

Rebecca Sampson<br />

Melbourne, VIC<br />

46 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


EIGHT<br />

Botanical Jewel<br />

Hoop Earrings<br />

Metals: Yellow goldplated<br />

sterling silver<br />

Gemstones:<br />

Tourmaline, jasper<br />

Nina Oikawa<br />

Melbourne, VIC<br />

ARBOR<br />


Amethyst Drop<br />

Earrings<br />

Metals: 18-carat<br />

yellow and<br />

white gold<br />

Gemstones:<br />

Amethyst,<br />

freshwater pearl,<br />

white diamond<br />

Sarah Kellett<br />

Melbourne, VIC<br />


WALTON<br />

Rainbow Snake<br />

Earrings<br />

Metals: 14-carat goldplated<br />

silver<br />

Gemstones:<br />

Tourmaline, topaz<br />

Camille Paloma Walton<br />

Wellington, NZ<br />


Fancy Yellow<br />

Diamond Ring<br />

Metals: 18-carat white<br />

and yellow gold<br />

Gemstones: Green,<br />

yellow, orange, and<br />

white diamond<br />

Nazanin<br />

Mohammadkhani<br />

Adelaide, SA<br />



Sunny Signet Ring<br />

Metal: 9-carat<br />

yellow gold<br />

Gemstones: Sapphire,<br />

citrine, diamond<br />

Laura Miers<br />

Sydney, NSW<br />


Rainbow Goddess Ring<br />

Metal: 9-carat yellow gold<br />

Gemstones: Pink, orange,<br />

yellow, green, teal, and<br />

blue sapphire, opal<br />

Michelle Kennedy<br />

Adelaide, SA<br />





Gabriele-Emilie<br />

Hinged Bracelet<br />

Metals: Rose gold,<br />

sterling silver<br />

Gemstone: Peridot<br />

Shannon Cornish<br />

Woodside, SA<br />

<strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 47


Making the Cut<br />

In the quest for ever-more beautiful and brilliant<br />

diamonds, creativity and innovation abound in the<br />

world of diamond cuts, writes ARABELLA RODEN.

DIAMOND FEATURE | Making the Cut<br />

Lili Diamonds<br />


By The<br />

Numbers<br />

Nicole Mera ring<br />

featuring Rose cut and<br />

Round Brilliant white<br />

diamonds and cushioncut<br />

yellow diamond<br />

Of the famous four ‘C’s of diamond<br />

assessment, none is more important<br />

than cut. As the only element of a<br />

diamond’s appearance that can be controlled<br />

by human hands, the cut has the power to make<br />

– or break – a stone’s value.<br />

“Cut is the heart of the diamond,” says Maulin Shah,<br />

director of World Shiner.<br />

“It is the most important characteristic. If the cut isn't<br />

nice – the stone could be D colour and internally flawless,<br />

but it won't sparkle.”<br />

Alongside brilliance and fire, cut also impacts the other<br />

‘Cs’ – it can both saturate and soften a stone’s colour,<br />

remove inclusions to improve clarity, and make a stone<br />

appear larger than its carat weight would otherwise imply.<br />

While the vast majority of the world’s diamonds are cut as<br />

round brilliants, master cutters and designers worldwide<br />

have explored new ways to differentiate stones, enhance<br />

a diamond’s natural beauty to its greatest potential, and<br />

support the creativity of jewellers.<br />

The history of branded or ‘proprietary’ cuts – those that<br />

were trademarked or even patented – can be traced back<br />

to one of the most venerable diamond cutting houses,<br />

with Joseph Asscher, co-founder of Royal Asscher, who<br />

created the Asscher cut in 1902.<br />

While reports vary over whether Asscher patented the<br />

cut – the Gemological Institute of America’s journal, Gems<br />

& Gemology, asserts that he did – it has since become a<br />

generic cut; an updated version, the Royal Asscher cut,<br />

was patented in 2002.<br />

Similarly, the 66-facet Radiant cut – invented by New<br />

York cutter Henry Grossbard in 1977 – was once a<br />

patented design and has since become standard industry<br />

terminology, as has the Princess cut, which was developed<br />

by Bez Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz in 1979, strongly<br />

influenced by Basil Watermeyer’s patented Barion cut<br />

and Arpad Nagy’s Profile cut.<br />

72%<br />

approximate<br />

proportion<br />

of GIA round<br />

brilliants graded<br />

‘Excellent’ cut<br />

58<br />

number of facets<br />

on a round<br />

brilliant diamond<br />

2006<br />

year the GIA<br />

began issuing<br />

cut grades on<br />

diamond reports<br />

2018<br />

year the GIA<br />

launched its<br />

Proprietary Cut<br />

Program<br />

Garry Holloway – director of Holloway Diamonds and<br />

inventor of the IdealScope, Holloway Cut Advisor (HCA)<br />

and Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool (ASET) – calls<br />

the Asscher, Radiant, and Princess cuts “the only three<br />

successful branded cuts”, though he laments, “The GIA<br />

have never used these names and this provides confusion<br />

for retail salespeople and consumers.”<br />

Branded breakthrough<br />

In the late 1990s and early 2000s, an influx of proprietary<br />

cuts and shapes entered the market, largely driven by<br />

“radical changes in the diamond pipeline, widespread<br />

reliance on standardised price lists, advances in diamond<br />

cutting technology, and falling profit margins throughout the<br />

industry”, according to Gems & Gemology.<br />

Many did not withstand the test of time.<br />

“The branded cuts were largely developed as ways to<br />

improve yields or charge more for a few extra facets,”<br />

Holloway says. “The yield-increasing diamonds were the<br />

worst, essentially turning an 80-point Ideal cut round<br />

diamond hiding inside a rough into a 1-carat disaster.<br />

“Human vision – when confronted with miniscule flashes from<br />

a 100-facet half-carat diamond – sees ‘mush’,” he explains.<br />

“Side by side [with classic cut diamonds], they just didn’t<br />

stack up.”<br />

And when it comes to selling a diamond, sparkle is, of<br />

course, key. “Maximum scintillation and fire is what<br />

customers want to see,” says Cindy Eidukevicius-Jones,<br />

diamond trainer and marketing and merchandise manager<br />

at the Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s buying group.<br />

“A diamond needs to show how lively and bright it<br />

can become.”<br />

However, a select few proprietary cuts managed to<br />

provide enough of an advantage to jewellers and appeal to<br />

consumers to maintain an ongoing presence in the market.<br />

Russian manufacturer Kristall Smolensk’s 89-facet,<br />

octagonal-shaped Phoenix cut, developed in the ’90s,<br />


<strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 49

Making the Cut | DIAMOND FEATURE<br />

Golden Jubilee<br />

Diamond,<br />

545.65 carats<br />

A selection of diamond cuts<br />

developed by Sir Gabriel<br />

Tolkowsky from the Flower Cuts<br />

and Sea Shell Cuts collections<br />

Centenary<br />

Diamond,<br />

273.85 carats<br />

THE FATHER of MODERN BRILLIANCE A moment with Sir Gabriel Tolkowsky<br />

Over a career spanning more than six<br />

decades, Sir Gabriel ‘Gabi’ Tolkowsky’s name<br />

has become synonymous with the art of<br />

diamond cutting.<br />

Born in Tel Aviv in 1939 to a family of diamond<br />

cutters – including his uncle Marcel, credited<br />

as the inventor of the round brilliant cut – Sir<br />

Gabi was trained by his father Jean and at<br />

the age of 16, was tasked with polishing a<br />

100-carat emerald-cut diamond.<br />

In 1975, he began working with De Beers for<br />

whom he developed the Flower Cuts collection.<br />

In the 1980s, Sir Gabi and his son Jean<br />

Paul – also a master cutter – were secretly<br />

commissioned to cut the Unnamed Brown,<br />

a 755.5-carat brown stone unearthed at the<br />

Premier Mine in South Africa.<br />

An underground workshop, free of vibration,<br />

was constructed to ensure no damage came<br />

to the stone as it was meticulously whittled<br />

into a 545.65-carat Golden Jubilee Diamond,<br />

which remains the largest cut and faceted<br />

diamond in the world – outweighing even the<br />

Cullinan I, which had held the title since 1908.<br />

The stone was completed in 1990 and later<br />

became part of the Thai Crown Jewels.<br />

When De Beers unearthed a 599-carat rough<br />

in South Africa in 1986, Sir Gabi was also<br />

selected to lead an expert team to transform<br />

it into what would become the world’s largest<br />

D Flawless stone, The Centenary Diamond.<br />

The rough was so fragile and so valuable, that<br />

no heat or laser could be used in the initial<br />

cutting process.<br />

Years later, Sir Gabi recalled, “I will never<br />

forget how I worked on the Centenary for<br />

154 working days – an entire working year<br />

– carving and carving away with my bare<br />

hands. I removed more than 50 carats before<br />

we started polishing.”<br />

The finished diamond – weighing 273.85 carats<br />

with a modified heart shape – was completed<br />

in February 1991 and unveiled in May that year,<br />

insured for more than $US100 million.<br />

Drawing from techniques developed during<br />

the polishing of the Centenary and the Golden<br />

Jubilee Diamonds and from the De Beers<br />

Flower Cuts, Sir Gabi created the Gabrielle<br />

cut, known as the first ‘triple brilliant’ and<br />

which was later sold throughout Europe,<br />

Asia, and the US.<br />

Founding his namesake company Gabi S<br />

Tolkowksy & Sons in Antwerp, Belgium, in 1995,<br />

he later created the Sea Shells Cuts collection.<br />

In 2003, he was presented with the title<br />

Chevalier de L'Ordre du Roi Leopold II<br />

(Knight of the Order of King Leopold II) for his<br />

services to the diamond industry.<br />

Here, Sir Gabi discusses his experiences<br />

and legacy as the world’s foremost master<br />

diamond cutter.<br />

What was it like to grow up in a family with<br />

such a strong connection to diamonds and<br />

diamond cutting?<br />

GT: I was the sixth generation, learning cutting<br />

and polishing from my father Jean Tolkowsky,<br />

who cut and polished as a young boy of 10 years<br />

old together with his cousin Marcel Tolkowsky,<br />

learning from their fathers and uncles. So it<br />

was natural to attract my own wish to become a<br />

diamond cleaver, cutter and polisher.<br />

What are your fondest memories of your<br />

career in the diamond industry?<br />

GT: Having participated in the planning and<br />

creations of the Flower Cuts, the Sea Shells<br />

Cuts, and others, and the Centenary Diamond<br />

and Golden Jubilee.<br />

You were responsible for cutting the largest<br />

faceted diamond in history, the Golden<br />

Jubilee. How did this come about and what<br />

did this process involve?<br />

GT: Without having a team of 15 expert<br />

scientists, technicians, security guards and<br />

master diamond cutters that communicated<br />

daily with me during three long years, I<br />

would have never been able to achieve the<br />

uniqueness of such a creation.<br />

Together we realised that every single<br />

diamond is effectively an individual that will<br />

attract every human’s senses; each one of<br />

them is a unique beauty.<br />

As it is said, “Beauty is altogether in the eye of<br />

the beholder.” This, without any doubt, was and<br />

still is the basic reason for humans to continue<br />

to manufacture and deal with diamonds.<br />

How has diamond cutting evolved over time,<br />

both as an art and commercially?<br />

GT: No matter what the position is of humans<br />

that are involved in transforming a rough<br />

diamond into a polished one, they are making<br />

art that allows them also to be commercially<br />

busy if they wish.<br />

They are all part of a unique artistic movement.<br />

Where is the centre of innovation, today, in<br />

terms of diamond cutting?<br />

GT: Without any doubt, due to the evolutionary<br />

period that we are witnessing, centres of<br />

innovation do exist and will continue to<br />

develop in various parts of the world.<br />

This is because approaching beauty is a<br />

normal human evolution; it allows people<br />

– men and women – to express themselves<br />

according to their cultural environment.<br />

As a matter of fact, beauty is not only an<br />

artistic reaction, but also a way to wish, hope<br />

and dream – beauty is a haven of peace!<br />

Without any doubt, it is my wish to continue<br />

the legacy of the importance of beauty by my<br />

children and grandchildren.<br />

50 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

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Making the Cut | DIAMOND FEATURE<br />


Traditional Diamond Shapes<br />

Round Brilliant<br />

58 Facets<br />

Oval<br />

58 Facets<br />

Trillion / Trilliant<br />

31 Facets (Accent) or<br />

50 Facets (Solitaire)<br />

Cushion<br />

58 Facets<br />

Pear<br />

58 Facets<br />

Rose Cut<br />

3 to 24 Facets<br />

Princess<br />

57 Facets<br />

Marquise<br />

57 Facets<br />

Old Mine Cut<br />

58 Facets<br />

Radiant<br />

70 Facets<br />

Asscher<br />

72 Facets<br />

Old European Cut<br />

58 Facets<br />

Emerald<br />

57 Facets<br />

Heart<br />

57 Facets<br />

Baguette<br />

14 Facets<br />

is still available today, as is the Dream cut – a modified<br />

square cut patented in 2002 – from US manufacturer<br />

Hearts On Fire, which is now part of Chow Tai Fook<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Group.<br />

Lili Diamonds’ Crisscut and Lily cut, released to the market<br />

in 1996, are also still available and the company has since<br />

developed four more internationally patented designs:<br />

Crisscut Cushion, Orchidea, Wonder and the Meteor, a<br />

decagonal-shaped diamond with 71 facets, in 2010.<br />

Speaking to <strong>Jeweller</strong> in 2018, Dotan Siman-Tov, managing<br />

director Lili Diamonds, said, “There are several other<br />

successful patent diamonds other than Lili Diamonds<br />

around the world, but many suppliers found that it’s one<br />

thing to invent it [a new cut] and another thing to market it<br />

and that’s not easy. There is a story to build for each stone.”<br />

Siman-Tov believed the problem was a lack of<br />

differentiation: “The new cuts were not dramatically<br />

different to the average consumer, whereas our cuts<br />

are different because, for example, we have the Lily Cut<br />

and Orchidea that are flower shapes and the Crisscut and<br />

the Crisscut Cushion are different facets than, let’s say, the<br />

regular emerald or regular cushion.”<br />

Patented cuts comprised approximately 60 per cent of Lili<br />

Diamonds’ sales in 2018, commanding price premiums<br />

and manufactured on larger stones of five to 10 carats.<br />

Indeed, Holloway notes that cuts incorporating extra facets<br />

work best on stones “two to 10 times larger than what is<br />

usually produced".<br />

The year 2018 also marked the patent of eight diamonds<br />

marketed as the ‘world’s brightest’: the Sirius Star 80<br />

Round, Sirius Star 100 Round, Sirius Star Cushion, Sirius<br />

Star Cushion 100, Sirius Star Square, Sirius Star Octagon,<br />

Sirius Star 88 Round and Sirius Star Oval.<br />

Developed by master cutter Mike Botha and licensed by<br />

Dharmanandan Diamonds, the cuts were marketed to<br />

offer “additional light performance compared to a round<br />

brilliant cut and address the retailer’s issue of shrinking<br />

profit margins.”<br />

Garry Holloway<br />

Holloway Diamonds<br />

"A diamond can have an<br />

Excellent cut grade – or<br />

even top performance with<br />

my Holloway Cut Advisor – but<br />

it can still be as dull as<br />

dishwater, In theory, a black<br />

diamond could receive a<br />

XXX cut grade."<br />

Sir Gabriel Tolkowsky<br />

Tolkowsky<br />

"'Beauty is altogether in the eye<br />

of the beholder.' This, without<br />

any doubt, was and still is the<br />

basic reason for humans to<br />

continue to manufacture and<br />

deal with diamonds."<br />

Cindy Eidukevicius-Jones<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

"Maximum scintillation<br />

and fire is what customers<br />

want to see. A diamond<br />

needs to show how lively and<br />

bright it can become."<br />

In particular, the Sirius Star 80 was said to feature greater<br />

scintillation and increased light return, improved brilliance<br />

and higher visual appeal than various other round cuts.<br />

Its 80 inclined facets include an eight-pointed star pattern<br />

in the pavilion with 100 per cent light return while the<br />

Sirius Star 100 features a 10-pointed version.<br />

Botha said at the time, “This is a tremendous milestone<br />

for the Sirius Star brand as Dharmanandan has the<br />

depth of expertise and global reach to carry the brand in<br />

adequate inventory in all the sizes and clarity necessary<br />

for successful distribution.”<br />

That same year, the GIA established a Proprietary<br />

Cut Program which includes branded cut names and<br />

descriptions on its diamond reports.<br />

Back to basics<br />

Of course, the vast majority of jewellers are well aware of<br />

the power of cut – Shah notes that the Australian market<br />

is particularly well-educated among World Shiner’s<br />

international customer base.<br />

Yet there are still persistent misconceptions when it comes<br />

to avoiding poorly-cut stones, particularly when searching<br />

for niche products such as fancy shapes, or purchasing<br />

fancy-colour diamonds.<br />

First and foremost, it is essential to understand that a<br />

diamond’s cut is not a single attribute, but rather refers to<br />

several different elements – not including the shape.<br />

“Cut and shape can be confused,” Eidukevicius-Jones<br />

explains. Shape is whether the diamond is round, pear<br />

shape, cushion, etcetera; cut is how the stone has<br />

been manufactured/polished, and whether it is graded<br />

Excellent, Very Good, and so on.”<br />

Many patented designs include both cut and shape, such<br />

as Lili Diamonds' Lily Cut.<br />

John Chapman, director Gemetrix and Delta Diamond<br />

Laboratory, adds, “‘Cut’ has mixed connotations – even<br />

to diamond dealers. It encompasses several different<br />

52 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

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Making the Cut | DIAMOND FEATURE<br />

Above: Calleija Glacier cut<br />

diamond ring, courtesy<br />

Calleija. Right: Rose cut<br />

diamonds, courtesy<br />

Kunming Diamonds<br />

attributes that include proportions, angles,<br />

symmetry, and facet junctions.”<br />

Grading laboratories“distil these properties<br />

into grades that can be compared to a<br />

standardised reference”.<br />

While the GIA, International Gemological<br />

Institute (IGI) and HRD Antwerp use a fivepoint<br />

scale to grade cut, ranging from Poor<br />

to Excellent, the American Gem Society (AGS)<br />

includes a sixth grade above Excellent, Ideal.<br />

Says Chapman, “For round brilliants, the<br />

parameters are well understood – table width<br />

53 per cent, pavilion depth 43 per cent, and<br />

crown height 16 per cent.<br />

A diamond close to those specifications would<br />

be graded ‘Excellent’ for proportions and outside<br />

these ranges, proportion grades of Very Good,<br />

Good, Fair, and Poor have been defined.”<br />

He adds, “The advent of scanners that can<br />

accurately profile a diamond and measure its<br />

proportions, facet angles and symmetry has<br />

allowed objective measures of the cut.<br />

“Departures from this ideal cut are detrimental<br />

to the appearance of a stone through loss of<br />

brilliance, fire, and apparent size.”<br />

And though not an official term, a diamond may<br />

also be referred to as ‘Triple Excellent’ – also<br />

noted as XXX or triple-ex – if its proportion,<br />

symmetry, and polish have all been graded<br />

as Excellent.<br />

While the cut grades are well-established<br />

within the industry, Holloway says the biggest<br />

misconception about diamond cuts is “that<br />

Triple Excellent round cut diamonds are<br />

excellent diamonds”.<br />

“Seventy-two per cent of round diamonds<br />

submitted to the GIA receive the top cut grade of<br />

Excellent – the standard is so lenient you can drive<br />

a truck sideways through it!” he says.<br />

Meanwhile, the Hearts and Arrows descriptor –<br />

introduced by the Japanese diamond industry in<br />

the 1980s and brought to the US market in the<br />

early 1990s – can add another layer of confusion.<br />

“The concept of Hearts and Arrows was introduced<br />

as a way of determining if a round brilliant has been<br />

cut with the right proportions,” Chapman says.<br />

While the vast majority<br />

of the world’s diamonds<br />

are cut as round brilliants,<br />

master cutters and designers<br />

worldwide have explored<br />

new ways to differentiate<br />

stones, enhance a diamond’s<br />

natural beauty to its greatest<br />

potential, and support the<br />

creativity of jewellers"<br />

Commanding a premium price, these diamonds<br />

are precision-cut for physical and optical symmetry,<br />

resulting in the namesake pattern appearing when<br />

viewed through a special light scope.<br />

“Every Hearts and Arrows diamond will be<br />

graded Triple Excellent for cut, symmetry<br />

and polish, but not every Triple Excellent will<br />

necessarily be graded as a Hearts and Arrows<br />

diamond,” explains Eidukevicius-Jones.<br />

IGI and HRD Antwerp offer Hearts and<br />

Arrows certification, though the GIA does not.<br />

Notably, a Hearts and Arrows diamond may not<br />

always display optimal brilliance.<br />

A question of quality<br />

Since the GIA began grading cut quality in 2006,<br />

manufacturers have adapted their products in line<br />

with Excellent-grade proportions – leading to both<br />

positive and negative outcomes.<br />

As the GIA itself notes on its website, “A diamond’s<br />

proportions can help predict how well a diamond<br />

will deliver brightness, fire and scintillation.<br />

"However, an important outcome of GIA’s cut<br />

research was the finding that there is no single<br />

set of proportions that defines a well-cut round<br />

brilliant diamond.”<br />

On the positive side, Shah has observed an<br />

overall increase in diamond cut quality, in part<br />

due to increased education, awareness, and<br />

demand from the jewellery market for stones<br />

that fit the standardised cut grades – alongside<br />

improvements in diamond-cutting technology.<br />

“Worldwide, Excellent cut stones are becoming<br />

more popular, so manufacturers are producing<br />

more goods to fit that standard.<br />

"Due to the latest machinery innovations,<br />

manufacturers now also have better results from<br />

the rough, so there are, overall, better stones<br />

coming to market,” he explains.<br />

“Usually, if a jeweller asks for an Excellent cut<br />

round diamond certified by major laboratories such<br />

as the GIA, IGI, HRD Antwerp, or the Australian<br />

labs, they will get a nice cut stone,” Shah adds.<br />

However, while this standardisation and wide adoption<br />

of the GIA standards allows for easier comparison<br />

between stones, the system is not perfect.<br />

Abraham Tok, director Tok Bros, says, “The<br />

54 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

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Making the Cut | DIAMOND FEATURE<br />

Asprey cut<br />

Bez Ambar<br />

Blaze Solo cut<br />

Above: Buddha Cut diamond set<br />

in pendant. Left: Loose Buddha<br />

Cut diamond<br />

current GIA cut grade standard is acceptable as it has<br />

provided a standardised format for objectively comparing<br />

one diamond’s cut grade to another, however, it can be<br />

improved by tightening the parameters that constitute an<br />

Excellent cut grade,” he says.<br />

Holloway points out that the standards are also not<br />

necessarily enforced by grading laboratories.<br />

“More than 10 per cent of GIA-graded Excellent cut<br />

diamonds are deeper than 63 per cent, and the GIA<br />

teaches that 62.9 per cent is the maximum allowable<br />

depth percentage,” he says.<br />

“When queried on this, the GIA explains that [its<br />

proprietary cut-assessment software program] Facetware<br />

adds the crown height, girdle thickness and pavilion depth<br />

percentages to arrive at depth percentage. So, clever<br />

cutters have developed workarounds – and GIA allows it!”<br />

There are still persistent<br />

misconceptions when it comes<br />

to avoiding poorly-cut stones,<br />

particularly when searching for<br />

niche products such as fancy<br />

shapes, or purchasing fancycolour<br />

diamonds"<br />

Indeed, Tok has observed that “Excellent-grade round<br />

brilliant cut diamonds have changed over the past few<br />

years in that there has been a reduction in the diameter of<br />

particular sizes”.<br />

“A 1-carat round with an Excellent cut grade usually would<br />

have a diameter of 6.4mm–6.5mm, while a 1.50-carat<br />

would have a diameter of 7.4mm–7.5mm; now, you can<br />

find plenty of examples of 1-carat and 1.50-carat round<br />

diamonds, certified XXX by GIA, with diameters under<br />

6.3mm and 7.3mm, respectively.<br />

Maulin Shah<br />

World Shiner<br />

"With fancy shapes, it comes<br />

down to the dealer. A diamond<br />

dealer with a solid reputation,<br />

extensive experience, and<br />

a loyal existing customer<br />

base will be able to give good<br />

advice on fancy shapes."<br />

John Chapman<br />

Delta Diamond Laboratory<br />

and Gemetrix<br />

"Different polishers have<br />

their own ‘recipes’ for extracting<br />

the most colour and some<br />

make a livelihood out<br />

of recutting diamonds to<br />

achieve a more valuable<br />

colour grade."<br />

Abraham Tok<br />

Tok Bros<br />

"Excellent-grade round<br />

brilliant cut diamonds have<br />

changed over the past few<br />

years in that there has been<br />

a reduction in the diameter of<br />

particular sizes... The<br />

end result is a 'lumpier' or<br />

'fatter' stone."<br />

“The end result is a ‘lumpier’ or ‘fatter’ stone that has<br />

higher crown angles, increased depth percentages and<br />

thicker girdles. The extra weight to push the diamond into<br />

the [more valuable] 1-carat and 1.50-carat size ranges is<br />

hidden in these proportions in order to extract more value/<br />

yield from the rough diamond.”<br />

He adds, “This generally has a negative impact on the<br />

appearance of the diamond for jewellers as it is visually<br />

smaller when compared side-by-side with a diamond<br />

that was cut to the original Excellent parameters;<br />

0.1mm–0.2mm may not sound like much as an overall<br />

measurement, however, when comparing diamonds this<br />

is a significant difference that is easily noticeable to the<br />

trained eye.”<br />

Holloway points out a further problem of transparency<br />

being included in the clarity grade rather than the cut<br />

grade, meaning “a diamond can have an Excellent cut<br />

grade – or even top performance with my Holloway Cut<br />

Advisor – but it can still be as dull as dishwater.”<br />

“In theory, a black diamond could receive a XXX cut grade,”<br />

he adds, explaining that the GIA's and other laboratory's<br />

jargon can result in confusion for both jewellery retailers<br />

and consumers alike.<br />

“The worst is 'Clarity grade is based on clouds not show'<br />

which means the clouds are not plotted on the clarity image<br />

on a full certificate,” Holloway adds.<br />

Exceptions and misconceptions<br />

With the rise of custom jewellery design – particularly for<br />

engagement rings – fancy shapes such as marquise, kite,<br />

and heart are becoming increasingly popular.<br />

Yet none receive a standardised cut grade on a certificate,<br />

whether graded by the GIA or another laboratory, in the<br />

same way as a round brilliant. Even classic shapes like<br />

cushion, pear, and oval do not receive a full cut grade.<br />

Says Holloway, “Simply put, most jewellers have no idea<br />

that the GIA does not grade cut proportions for any fancyshaped<br />

diamonds.”<br />

56 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>



The history of diamond cutting is a long one. In the mid-14th<br />

Century, the octahedral facets of rough stones would be<br />

polished to create the simple ‘Point cut’; a century later, the<br />

Table cut was created by splitting the octahedral crystal in half.<br />



Later, the Rose cut – introduced to Europe in approximately 1530 –<br />

began to gain popularity. With 24 facets, the cut was prized for its<br />

soft, diffused light.<br />

In the 17th Century, French-Italian Cardinal Jules Mazarin invented<br />

his namesake cut – perhaps the first true precursor to the modern<br />

brilliant cut – with 17 crown facets. The Mazarin cut was later<br />

improved by Venetian polisher Vincent Peruzzi, who nearly doubled<br />

the number of crown facets for his Peruzzi cut.<br />

By the late 1800s, the South African diamond rush had well and<br />

truly begun, and demand for more efficient diamond cutting<br />

techniques increased. The industry was revolutionised by steamdriven<br />

bruting machines and motorised saws, which enabled<br />

faster and more precise cutting – leading to the development of the<br />

Old European cut, with 58 facets.<br />

Previously, diamonds were laboriously cleaved by hand and<br />

polished using diamond dust.<br />

Coster Diamonds, in the Netherlands, claims to have been the first<br />

polishing house to use steam-powered cutting machines, in 1840.<br />

Old Mine cut diamonds emerged around this time, featuring 58<br />

facets – similar to the modern round brilliant, but with a chunkier<br />

and more geometric look.<br />

In the 1870s, master cutter Henry D Morse developed what is<br />

known as the Transition cut or American cut. Trained in the<br />

Netherlands, Morse established the first diamond cutting factory<br />

in the US, where several technological breakthroughs took place.<br />

Notably, Morse profoundly shifted his focus away from maintaining<br />

the weight of the rough towards creating the most beautiful result,<br />

with lower main angles, smaller tables and symmetrical facets.<br />

Indicative of his skill, Morse was trusted to cut the largest stone<br />

found in the US in the 19th Century, the Dewey Diamond.<br />

Perhaps the most significant breakthrough in diamond cutting<br />

came in 1919, when engineer Marcel Tolkowsky – born to a family<br />

of diamantaires – developed the modern round brilliant cut, also<br />

known as the American Ideal cut or Tolkowsky cut.<br />

Tolkowsky’s formula maximised light return based on<br />

mathematical principles, and provided a framework by which the<br />

vast majority of the world’s diamonds are still cut today.<br />

The 20th Century would give rise to many other notable diamond<br />

shapes and cuts; the modern Oval cut, developed by Tolkowsky’s<br />

cousin Lazare Kaplan, the 66-facet Radiant cut, invented by New<br />

York cutter Henry Grossbard in 1977, and the Princess – a square<br />

diamond with a brilliant cut – in 1979.<br />



The late ’90s and early 2000s saw an influx of proprietary –<br />

either trademarked or patented – diamond cuts, concurrent<br />

with an increasingly crowded and competitive market, and rapid<br />

technological advancements.<br />

In 2018, the GIA established a Proprietary Cut Program and began<br />

issuing reports including branded cut names and descriptions.<br />

Today, more than 90 per cent of the world’s diamonds are cut and<br />

polished in India; approximately three quarters are round brilliants.<br />

Now proudly distributed by<br />

Meanwhile large, premium diamonds and complex shapes are<br />

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Innovative Diamond Cuts & Shapes<br />


Sirius Star Cushion<br />

116 Facets<br />


Sirius Star 88<br />

88 Facets<br />


Padma Round<br />

806 Facets<br />


Meteor<br />

71 Facets<br />


Sirius Star 100<br />

100 Facets<br />


Sirius Star Octagon<br />

88 Facets<br />


Sirius Star 80<br />

80 Facets<br />


Brilliant 10<br />

71 Facets<br />


Blue Flame<br />

89 Facets<br />



Sirius Star Square<br />

88 Facets<br />


Crisscut<br />

77 Facets<br />



Ashoka<br />

62 Facets<br />


Padma Cushion<br />

88 Facets<br />


Cherry Blossom/Sakura<br />

87 Facets<br />


Lily Cut<br />

77 Facets<br />


Orchidea<br />

61 Facets<br />


Astralis Round Brilliant<br />

89 Facets<br />


Crisscut Cushion<br />

85 Facets<br />



Cupio Cut<br />

73 Facets<br />


Quadrillion<br />

49 Facets<br />


This also presents a challenge for diamond suppliers,<br />

with Shah noting, “It is definitely harder for fancy shapes<br />

because none of the labs write the cut grade on the<br />

certificate – they only grade rounds for the cut.<br />

“For those other shapes, the report will mention things<br />

like polish and symmetry, but there won’t be a cut grade.”<br />

Indeed, the greatest selling point of fancy-shaped<br />

diamonds – their unique appearance – makes them<br />

difficult, if not impossible, to standardise.<br />

“Non-round shapes are not guided by nearly as much<br />

specification as round brilliants,” says Chapman.<br />

The key determinants of value for<br />

fancy colour diamonds are the<br />

saturation and vibrancy of that<br />

colour, and the size of the stone;<br />

therefore, cutting and polishing<br />

these diamonds is a delicate<br />

balancing act"<br />

“There are no ‘standard’ proportions – even for cushion<br />

cuts or ovals – against which they can be graded. Though<br />

symmetry and faceting can be graded, each lab offering<br />

such a grade will have its own criteria for what constitutes<br />

good or poor symmetry.”<br />

Adds Tok, “The appeal of fancy shapes is subjective.<br />

Different customers prefer different proportions in<br />

their fancy shapes; for example, some customers<br />

prefer pear shapes to be longer and some prefer oval<br />

shapes to be rounder.”<br />

When it comes to sourcing fancy shapes, Shah advises<br />

jewellers to place their trust in a respected diamond supplier.<br />

“With fancy shapes, it comes down to the dealer. A<br />

diamond dealer with a solid reputation, extensive<br />


In Summary<br />

First priority<br />

Cut is the most important<br />

of the 'four Cs', with<br />

the most influence<br />

over a diamond's final<br />

appearance, including<br />

its colour, clarity, carat<br />

weight, and brilliance<br />

Changing rules<br />

Fancy shapes and<br />

colours are cut and<br />

graded differently to<br />

round brilliants, which<br />

can present challenges<br />

Knowledge is<br />

power<br />

Education on Excellent<br />

and Ideal cut parameters<br />

and relevant diamond<br />

assessment tools can<br />

assist in both avoiding<br />

poorly-cut diamonds and<br />

making sales in-store<br />

A matter of trust<br />

A respected diamond<br />

supplier with extensive<br />

product knowledge<br />

is essential when<br />

sourcing well-cut stones,<br />

particularly fancy colours<br />

and shapes<br />

experience, and a loyal existing customer base will be able<br />

to give good advice on fancy shapes.<br />

“They will have the knowledge of stone ratios and be able to<br />

make suggestions and offer a selection, and a replacement<br />

stone if the customer is not happy.”<br />

Holloway suggests jewellers learn to use the ASET,<br />

which he developed for the AGS, to assess fancy shaped<br />

diamonds for light ‘leakage’ themselves.<br />

Further complicating the question of cut are fancy<br />

colour diamonds.<br />

“Cuts for fancy colours are in a different class than<br />

colourless diamonds,” says Chapman.<br />

“The objective of the light within the stone is quite different<br />

between the two types. For colourless diamonds, the<br />

‘pathlength’ of light within a stone is minimised, whereas<br />

for coloured diamonds, the art – or rather science – is to<br />

maximise the pathlength to deepen the colour.”<br />

Simply put, the deeper the pavilion, the farther light can<br />

travel within the diamond, which can create a richer and<br />

more intense colour.<br />

The key determinants of value for fancy colour diamonds<br />

are the saturation and vibrancy of that colour, and the<br />

size of the stone; therefore, cutting and polishing these<br />

diamonds is a delicate balancing act.<br />

Typically, mixed cuts such as the Radiant are preferred<br />

as they intensify colour; this is particularly evident in<br />

diamonds toward the end of the classic D to Z colour<br />

grading scale, which, when cut appropriately, can be<br />

transformed into more valuable fancy yellows.<br />

Says Chapman, “Different polishers have their own<br />

‘recipes’ for extracting the most colour and some make<br />

a livelihood out of recutting diamonds to achieve a more<br />

valuable colour grade.”<br />

Avoiding the traps<br />

As in most areas of the jewellery trade, education is key<br />

for jewellers in sourcing quality material; it is also a useful<br />

58 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

DIAMOND FEATURE | Making the Cut<br />

Top: Loose Alphabet<br />

Cut diamonds by Kunming<br />

Diamonds. Above: Alphabet<br />

Cut diamonds set in necklace<br />

by K Kane <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

sales tool when discussing diamonds with customers. “<strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

should educate themselves on the ideal parameters and use that<br />

knowledge to help their customers find great diamonds,” says Tok.<br />

Chapman echoes this observation; “Most consumers are, quite<br />

reasonably, not versed in what is a good cut and what to look for<br />

to assess brilliance and fire, so some retailers have come to their<br />

rescue with tools to help them,” he says.<br />

Whether a proprietary cut, fancy shape,<br />

fancy colour, or classic round brilliant,<br />

there is no overstating the importance<br />

of understanding a diamond’s cut and<br />

the impact it has on the overall beauty<br />

and appeal of a stone"<br />

“An IdealScope allows a view of the behaviour of light in a diamond<br />

from its refractions and reflections, and there are other fancier<br />

tools that show light leakage and brilliance with moving light<br />

stages, computer processing and graphic outputs of a stone’s light<br />

performance.<br />

“Several gem labs show these diagrams on their reports with areas<br />

of red, green and blue denoting how the light is behaving.”<br />

Eidukevicius-Jones advocates a hands-on approach: “Look at the<br />

diamond and move it around even before you pick up a loupe. First<br />

impressions last!” she says.<br />

Whether a proprietary cut, fancy shape, fancy colour, or classic<br />

round brilliant, there is no overstating the importance of<br />

understanding a diamond’s cut and the impact it has on the<br />

overall beauty and appeal of a stone.<br />

In order to deliver the best possible service, jewellers must both<br />

educate themselves and cultivate relationships with knowledgeable,<br />

reliable diamond suppliers in order to procure stones with<br />

outstanding sparkle – the stones with which consumers can’t help<br />

but fall in love.

Packamate Limited<br />

Flat F, Block 2.,<br />

12/F Kwun Tong Industrial Centre.<br />

460-470 Kwun Tong Road, Hong Kong<br />

Tel. +852 2603 1173 or 8121 1751<br />

Email.info@packamate.com<br />

packamate.com<br />

One-stop shop packaging component supply and solution<br />

Packamate Limited is a well-established manufacturer<br />

and wholesaler of quality packaging for various<br />

sectors such as jewellery, shopping bags, watches,<br />

writing instruments, spectacles, beverage, electronic<br />

devices, display, watch winder, cabinets, cosmetic,<br />

jewellery collectors and wine collectors.


COLOUR<br />

FOCUS<br />


Blue<br />

&<br />

Green<br />

70 RED CARPET<br />


Who dazzled with this<br />

aquamarine ring?<br />

Turn to page 70 to find out.<br />

Index<br />


Forest, sea & sky<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> discovers the chemical and structural causes<br />

of colour in captivating natural blue and green<br />

gemstones, from Ceylon sapphires to imperial jade.<br />

64<br />

65<br />

70<br />

IN DEPTH<br />

Dive into gem trivia<br />


Every hue of green and blue<br />


This month’s colours dazzle<br />

Sapphire<br />








Corundum<br />

Greek sappheiros, meaning blue stone<br />

9<br />

1.76 - 1.78<br />

Heat<br />

Blue, green, and teal (among others)<br />


8 Popular<br />

Blue &<br />

Green<br />

Gemstones<br />

Tsavorite garnet<br />







Garnet (Grossular)<br />

Named after Tsavo National Park<br />

6.5–7.5<br />

1.71 - 1.89<br />

None<br />

Green<br />

Emerald<br />







Aquamarine<br />







Paraìba Tourmaline<br />







Beryl<br />

Ancient Greek smaragdos, meaning<br />

green gemstone<br />

7.5 - 8<br />

1.56 - 1.58<br />

Oiling and other fracture filling<br />

Bluish green to green<br />

Beryl<br />

Latin aqua marina, meaning<br />

water of the sea<br />

7.5 - 8<br />

1.57- 1.58<br />

Heat<br />

Light blue-green to light blue<br />

Tourmaline<br />

Named after Paraìba State<br />

7 - 7.5<br />

1.61 - 1.67<br />

Heat<br />

'Neon' vivid blue-green<br />



• Apatite<br />

• Blue Zircon<br />

• Blue Spinel<br />

• Chrysoprase<br />

• Green Tourmaline<br />

(Verdelite)<br />

• Demantoid Garnet<br />

• Lapis Lazuli<br />

• Turquoise<br />

Peridot<br />







Jade<br />







Tanzanite<br />







Olivine<br />

Unknown but believed to be Anglo–<br />

Norman pedoretés, a type of opal<br />

6.5 - 7<br />

1.65 - 1.69<br />

None<br />

Olive to yellowish green and pure green<br />

Jadeite and Nephrite (silicates)<br />

From Spanish piedra de ijada,<br />

meaning stone of the side<br />

6.5 - 7 and 6 - 6.5<br />

1.67 - 1.68 and 1.61 - 1.68<br />

Bleach, wax, dye, and polymer<br />

Varied, notably pale to deep green<br />

Zoisite<br />

Named after Tanzania<br />

6 - 6.5<br />

1.69 - 1.70<br />

Heat<br />

Violet blue<br />


BLUE & GREEN<br />

In Depth<br />

Green Tourmaline<br />

(Verdelite)<br />

Afghanistan<br />

Brazil<br />

Mozambique<br />

Sri Lanka<br />

Tajikistan<br />

USA<br />

Blue Topaz<br />

(Natural)<br />

Brazil<br />

USA<br />

Peridot<br />

Australia<br />

Brazil<br />

China<br />

Kenya<br />

Mexico<br />

Myanmar (Burma)<br />

Norway<br />

Pakistan<br />

Saudi Arabia<br />

South Africa<br />

Sri Lanka<br />

Tanzania<br />

USA<br />

Tsavorite Garnet<br />

Tanzania<br />

Madagascar<br />

Pakistan<br />

Emerald<br />

Afghanistan<br />

Australia<br />

Brazil<br />

Colombia<br />

Pakistan<br />

Russia<br />

Zambia<br />

USA<br />

Aquamarine<br />

Brazil<br />

China<br />

India<br />

Madagascar<br />

Mozambique<br />

Russia<br />

USA<br />

Colombia<br />


OCEAN • Emerald<br />

• Sapphire<br />

USA<br />

• Green Tourmaline<br />

• Blue Topaz<br />

• Peridot<br />

• Tsavorite Garnet<br />

• Emerald<br />

• Aquamarine<br />

• Jade<br />

Brazil<br />


OCEAN<br />

• Paraìba Tourmaline<br />

• Green Tourmaline<br />

• Aquamarine<br />

• Peridot<br />

• Jade<br />

• Blue Topaz<br />



Tanzania<br />

ARCTIC<br />

OCEAN<br />

• Tanzanite<br />

• Tsavorite garnet<br />

• Sapphire<br />

• Peridot<br />

• Blue spinel<br />

• Jade<br />

Sri Lanka<br />

INDIAN<br />

OCEAN<br />

• Sapphire<br />

• Peridot<br />

• Green Tourmaline<br />

• Blue Spinel<br />

• Jade<br />


Australia<br />

Sapphire<br />


OCEAN<br />

Demantoid Garnet<br />

Afghanistan<br />

Iran<br />

Italy<br />

Madagascar<br />

Nambia<br />

Russia<br />

Sapphire<br />

Australia<br />

Madagascar<br />

Myanmar (Burma)<br />

Sri Lanka<br />

Tanzania<br />

Thailand<br />

Blue Spinel<br />

Canada<br />

Myanmar (Burma)<br />

Sri Lanka<br />

Tajikistan<br />

Tanzania<br />

Vietnam<br />

Blue Zircon<br />

Cambodia<br />

Thailand<br />

Vietnam<br />

Tanzanite<br />

Tanzania<br />

Paraiba<br />

Tourmaline<br />

Brazil<br />

Jade<br />

Brazil<br />

China<br />

India<br />

Myanmar<br />

New Zealand<br />

Sri Lanka<br />

Tanzania<br />

USA<br />

Zimbabwe<br />

The world's most<br />

famous sapphire<br />

engagement ring – belonging to<br />

Diana, Princess of Wales – was not a<br />

custom-make, but rather chosen by her<br />

from the Garrard jewellery catalogue<br />

“These gems<br />

have life in<br />

them; their<br />

colours<br />

speak – say<br />

what words<br />

fail of.”<br />


At least 50% of the world's<br />

Emerald is sourced from Colombia<br />

The most famous<br />

collection of peridot<br />

jewellery is the Habsburg<br />

Peridot Parure, which<br />

was created by imperial<br />

jeweller Köchert in 1825<br />

Ancient Egyptian priests<br />

would grind peridot and<br />

mix it into drinks, which<br />

they believed would give<br />

them mystical powers<br />

and knowledge<br />

$AU6.5 million<br />

Price paid for Elizabeth Taylor’s<br />

emerald Bulgari brooch<br />

Love is an emerald.<br />

Its brilliant light wards<br />

off dragons on this<br />

treacherous path."<br />

RUMI<br />

In the Middle Ages,<br />

Europeans believed<br />

sapphires could<br />

cure eye diseases<br />

3 BILLION<br />



Cleopatra’s<br />

legendary<br />

emerald<br />

collection was<br />

likely peridot<br />

Lapis lazuli beads and<br />

artefacts have been found in<br />

many ancient civilisations,<br />

dating to the Neolithic age<br />

381kg<br />

The weight of the Bahia Emerald,<br />

which contains the largest single<br />

emerald shard ever found; it is hidden<br />

in a secret vault in Los Angeles<br />

62 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

BLUE & GREEN<br />

Colour Investigation<br />


Every hue of green and blue<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> discovers the chemical and structural causes of colour in captivating natural blue and green<br />

gemstones, from Ceylon sapphires to imperial jade.<br />

Rich blue Ceylonese gemstones are the most wellknown<br />

and valuable variety of sapphire, and the<br />

standard against which other blue gems are measured.<br />

However, paler versions are still in high demand and<br />

the teal hue – a mix of blue and green – has also soared<br />

in popularity in recent years, with premium specimens<br />

sourced from Australia, Nigeria, and Montana in the US.<br />

Sapphire is corundum; an allochromatic mineral that<br />

derives colour from chemical impurities in the crystal<br />

structure. These impurities absorb specific parts of the<br />

light spectrum, and the remaining light reflected to the<br />

eye gives colour to the gemstone.<br />

Blue is caused by traces of titanium and iron; the more<br />

iron present, the darker the stone. Green sapphires also<br />

owe their colour to iron.<br />

Sapphires are often heat-treated to remove silk<br />

inclusions, thus enhancing clarity and richness of colour.<br />

Like sapphire, the vibrant colour of emerald – a form of<br />

beryl – has been adored from ancient times.<br />

Created by trace impurities of chromium and vanadium,<br />

the intense green colour is the most prized. The price<br />

drops when accompanied by a bluish tinge, and continues<br />

to devalue further when coloured a yellowish tinge from<br />

iron impurities.<br />

When the colour of beryl is too light to be called emerald,<br />

it is termed ‘green beryl’.<br />

Colombia remains the major source of emeralds,<br />

retaining the best reputation and usually commanding a<br />

price premium.<br />

However, emeralds can be sourced from many parts of<br />

63<br />



Sarah Ho<br />

QUICK<br />

FACTS<br />

85%<br />

of the<br />

gemstones<br />

mined in Sri<br />

Lanka are<br />

sapphire<br />

1<br />

location where<br />

tanzanite<br />

is found<br />

worldwide<br />

$42m<br />

value of the<br />

Colombia's<br />

emerald<br />

exports in<br />

2020 ($US)<br />

the world, including Russia (the Urals have produced<br />

emeralds for more than 100 years), Zambia,<br />

Brazil, Zimbabwe, Afghanistan and Ethiopia; some<br />

emeralds from these mines will rival the best<br />

Colombian emeralds.<br />

Emeralds typically have many inclusions; the French say<br />

they have a jardin (garden) inside them. The inclusions<br />

also make emeralds a more brittle gemstone, often<br />

confused with it being soft.<br />

To help improve their clarity and colour, emeralds are<br />

treated in several ways. They are usually “oiled” at the<br />

mines – a process that uses oil to fill the cracks and<br />

inclusion spaces in a technique practised for centuries.<br />

Aquamarine is another variety of beryl, and owes its<br />

delicate blue-green palette to ferrous iron.<br />

Loved for its icy sky-blues and cool sea greens, its name<br />

originated from the Latin aqua marina, meaning ‘water<br />

of the sea’.<br />

Available in large, eye-clean gemstones, aquamarine’s<br />

colour and higher carat weights has made it popular,<br />

although deeper shades command a higher price. Most<br />

commercially-available aquamarines are heat-treated<br />

to remove yellow tones and produce a more desirable<br />

blue hue.<br />

Maxixe beryl is the name given to blue beryl with a very<br />

dark tone that is almost unnatural, unlike the softer<br />

blues of aquamarine.<br />

The colour is known to fade from deep blue to a<br />

yellowish tone in sunlight and strong artificial light or<br />

heat in a reasonably short time.<br />

The maxixe beryl’s colour is caused by a nitrate trace<br />

<strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 63

Colour Investigation | BLUE & GREEN GEMSTONES<br />



Sapphire<br />

Dreams<br />

IA<br />






WALES<br />


Anakie Fields<br />

New England Fields<br />

Australian sapphires originated as a<br />

result of volcanic eruptions that date back<br />

millions of years.<br />

Discovered as crystal formations in<br />

ancient riverbeds left behind by creeks and<br />

streams, sapphire deposits were found to be<br />

concentrated in alluvial gravels, colloquially<br />

referred to as 'wash'.<br />

Today, most of these gems are found in the<br />

New England Fields in northern NSW and<br />

the Anakie Fields in central Queensland,<br />

which are the two major sources of<br />

sapphires in Australia.<br />

Sapphires are a form of corundum with<br />

a chemical formula of Al 2<br />

O 3<br />

– aluminium<br />

oxide.<br />

The<br />

word 'sapphire'<br />

is derived from<br />

sappheiros,<br />

which means 'blue<br />

stone' in Greek. However,<br />

despite the common belief that sapphires<br />

only come in a blue colour, that could not be<br />

further from the truth.<br />

All sapphires are allochromatic, which means<br />

they receive their colour from impurities<br />

within the crystal structure. Depending on the<br />

trace amounts of iron, titanium and nickel,<br />

and other elements, sapphires can attain a<br />

range of different colours.<br />

TAS<br />

Corundum is a material known for its high<br />

density, which makes sapphires among the<br />

hardest natural minerals in the world, ranking<br />

9 out of 10 on Mohs' hardness scale,<br />

second only to diamonds.<br />

Australian sapphires are particularly known<br />

for deep blue, green, yellow and parti-colour<br />

specimens combining blue, yellow and green.<br />

Source: SAMS Group Australia<br />

Est.1968<br />









COLOUR<br />


MEMBER<br />

03 9654 4449<br />

Level 4, Wales Corner<br />

227 Collins Street<br />

Melbourne VIC 3000<br />

gems@kandk.net.au<br />

Suite 5, Level 1, 428 George Street SYDNEY NSW 2000<br />

P +61 2 8065 8533 E info@sovereigngems.com<br />


compound. Some maxixe-type beryl is also on the market with<br />

colour resulting from a carbonate trace compound.<br />

Demantoid, tsavorite and tanzanite<br />

Another gemstone of many colours is garnet, and the standout<br />

in the andradite branch of garnet is vibrant green demantoid.<br />

With dispersion greater than diamond and a striking, rich green,<br />

hue demantoid is one of the most valuable garnets.<br />

Originally sourced from Russia, much of today’s demantoid<br />

comes from Namibia.<br />

Grossular garnet is found in a range of colours including yellow,<br />

grey, colourless and green; indeed grossular gets its name<br />

from the Latin word for gooseberry, the light green variety being<br />

similar in colour to the fruit.<br />

Annoushka x Fuli Gemstones<br />

Aquamarine is another variety of beryl,<br />

and owes its delicate blue-green palette<br />

to ferrous iron. Loved for its icy skyblues<br />

and cool sea greens, its name<br />

originated from the Latin aqua marina,<br />

meaning ‘water of the sea’”<br />

The most sought after grossular garnet is the rich green<br />

variety called tsavorite. Almost, but not quite emerald green,<br />

tsavorite was discovered by geologist Campbell Bridges in<br />

Tanzania in 1967.<br />

He found another source in 1970, near Kenya’s Tsavo National<br />

Park. Bridges and former Tiffany & Co. president Henry B Platt<br />

named tsavorite after its Kenyan source.<br />

On first viewing the gem, Platt observed, “Tsavorite is everything<br />

a fine gemstone should be, and then some.”<br />

Like tsavorite, tanzanite was also discovered in Tanzania<br />

in 1967.<br />

According to legend, a large bush fire swept the foot of Mount<br />

Kilimanjaro, transforming the dull, greyish-brown material into<br />

glittering blue and violet crystals, which not only caught the<br />

eyes of Masai tribesmen but also the imagination of the world’s<br />

most-prestigious jewellery houses.<br />

This bushfire myth perfectly illustrates the chameleon-like<br />

change that occurs when tanzanite crystals are heated to<br />

approximately 400°C – the undesirable yellow and brown tints<br />

disappear and the purple and blue tints deepen, resulting in<br />

transparent, vividly-coloured material.<br />

Tanzanite is a gem variety of the mineral zoisite, a calcium<br />

aluminium silicate. Zoisite may be green, pink, grey, colourless<br />

or brown in its untreated form.<br />

Tanzanite’s unique formation has a million-to-one chance of<br />

occurring outside the areas where it is known to be found,<br />

making it significantly rarer than diamond and asserting its<br />

reputation as a truly exotic gemstone.<br />

Originally, tanzanite was confused with Kashmir sapphire and<br />

even amethyst, due to its exquisite mix of velvety blue and<br />

purple hues.<br />

Chopard<br />

David Morris<br />

Chaumet<br />





+61 413 872 810<br />




Colour Investigation | BLUE & GREEN GEMSTONES<br />

L to R: Van Cleef & Arpels; Sarah Ho; Bulgari; Sapphire Dreams<br />

Intense blue tanzanite in large sizes is rare and more expensive<br />

than purple because the rough does not provide as high a yield.<br />

Indicolite, verdelite and Paraìba tourmaline<br />

While the red hues of rubellite tourmaline maintain a steady<br />

appreciation, the interest and value of blue and green tourmaline<br />

was reignited with the discovery of Paraìba tourmaline.<br />

Tourmalines showing unusually striking ‘neon’ colours of blue,<br />

green-blue, green and violet first appeared in the jewellery trade<br />

in 1989, when a single deposit was unearthed near the Brazilian<br />

village of Sao Jose de Batalha in north-central Paraìba State.<br />

The gems came to be known as Paraìba tourmalines. Such<br />

tourmalines are rare, and exhibit a vivid blue and startling glow<br />

incomparable to any other gem.<br />

Although uncommon in sizes over 2 carats, these majestic<br />

gemstones are always in high demand, attracting extraordinary<br />

prices not seen with any other tourmaline variety. Interestingly, the<br />

trace element responsible for these exciting colours is copper.<br />

In some cases, the concentration is so high that small inclusions<br />

of pure native copper can be found.<br />

While copper is a contributing colouring agent in many other<br />

minerals such as turquoise and malachite, it had not been known to<br />

colour tourmaline until the discovery of Paraìba tourmaline.<br />

Typically, iron and chromium induce the blue and<br />

green in other coloured tourmaline varieties.<br />

Mined by hand in the copper-rich<br />

mountains of Mozambique and Nigeria<br />

are Paraìba-type’ tourmalines.<br />




Almost identical in chemistry and<br />

colour saturation to their Brazilian<br />

counterparts, these gems emerged<br />

into the market in the early 2000s<br />

with large stones, some over<br />

5 carats.<br />

However, some argue the quality<br />

and richness of colour of the authentic<br />

Brazilian stones are incomparable.<br />

sales@tremac.com.au<br />

www.tremonti.com.au<br />

Harry Winston

Blue is caused<br />

by traces of<br />

titanium and<br />

iron... Green<br />

sapphires also<br />

owe their colour<br />

to iron”<br />

Sapphire Dreams<br />

S&S<br />



Exclusive Australian suppliers of<br />

.935 Sterling Silver Chains<br />

In contrast to Paraìba tourmaline, the other cool-hued varieties<br />

are more readily available and at less extravagant prices.<br />

These gems flaunt trade names such as ‘indicolite’, the name<br />

given to a range of blue tourmalines, and ‘verdelite’, the name<br />

given to a range of green tourmalines.<br />

Both named varieties are often tinged with blue, green or violet<br />

offering a broad spectrum of colours in varying saturations.<br />

Blue tourmalines range from pale icy blue to deep and dark<br />

saturated navy blues. Stones that exhibit a dominant blue hue<br />

generally attract a higher value.<br />

Some stones are labelled indicolite even when the green<br />

predominates, so buyers should value a stone based on its<br />

colour rather than its trade name.<br />

Tourmalines showing unusually<br />

striking ‘neon’ colours of blue, greenblue,<br />

green and violet first appeared in<br />

the jewellery trade in 1989”<br />

Tourmaline’s other varying greens offer a pleasing alternative to<br />

the grass green of peridot and the deep, rich green of emerald,<br />

the other industry ‘heavyweights’.<br />

These include pastel hues, blue-green ‘teal’ varieties and a<br />

rare vivid green referred to as ‘chrome dravite’ – coloured by<br />

vanadium, chromium and sometimes both.<br />

Peridot and lapis lazuli<br />

Peridot is the gem-quality variety of olivine and its colour ranges<br />

from green, greenish-yellow, yellowish-green, greenish-brown<br />

and brown, depending on its chemical composition.<br />

Pure green gemstones are rare and most peridot exhibit a<br />

yellowish undertone.<br />

The intensity of peridot’s green hue is determined by the varying<br />

amount of iron in its composition; iron influences a yellowbrown<br />

tone within the gemstone while traces of chromium and<br />

nickel – replacing iron and magnesium – are said to give peridot<br />

a bright-green colour.<br />

Ph: +61 3 9587 1215<br />

Email: info@stonesandsilver.com.au<br />


Colour Investigation | BLUE & GREEN GEMSTONES<br />

L to R: Graff, Gucci, Neha Dani, Van Cleef & Arpels<br />

Intriguingly, pallasites are one kind of stony-iron<br />

meteorite that contain abundant crystalline olivine,<br />

sometimes of gem-quality peridot – making it an ‘extraterrestrial’<br />

gemstone!<br />

The crystals are generally small and, due to the high<br />

iron content of the surrounding iron-nickel matrix, are<br />

typically yellowy-brown in colour.<br />

The lustrous texture and luminous<br />

colours of polished jade have been<br />

prized for thousands of years.<br />

Ancient cultures in North, Central<br />

and South America, New Zealand,<br />

Asia and Europe valued jade for its<br />

beauty, hardness and durability”<br />

Some pallasitic peridot specimens are higher in carat<br />

weight and present an attractive green colour favourable<br />

for faceted gemstones.<br />

The finest examples of peridot are unearthed in Myanmar<br />

(Burma) and Pakistan, with the US state Arizona and<br />

China producing more reliable commercial quantities;<br />

they are also found in Australia, Vietnam, and some<br />

African nations.<br />

Admired since the dawn of civilisation, early records<br />

indicate the Ancient Egyptians mined a beautiful green<br />

gemstone from the island in the Red Sea called Topazios.<br />

The island, now known as St John’s Island, or Zabargad,<br />

remains to this day the oldest and longest-known source<br />

of gem-quality peridot.<br />

Another gemstone prized in the ancient world is lapis<br />

lazuli, often shortened to lapis, which gained its name<br />

from Latin and Persian origins – lazhuward meaning<br />

‘blue’ in Persian and lapis meaning ‘stone’ in Latin.<br />



Tanzanite was<br />

discovered in<br />

1967; legend has<br />

it, a bushfire near<br />

Mount Kilimanjaro<br />

heated natural<br />

crystals, giving them<br />

tanzanite's signature<br />

purple-blue hue<br />

Tanzania is the only<br />

known source of this<br />

gemstone, with mines<br />

located in a 14km<br />

square radius<br />

The largest-ever rough<br />

tanzanite was found<br />

in June 2020 and<br />

weighed 9.2kg<br />

The gem has been highly prized for thousands of<br />

years, being used in jewellery, carvings, seals and<br />

decorative items.<br />

Lapis lazuli is an aggregate comprised primarily of<br />

lazurite, calcite and pyrite. Quality lapis consists mainly<br />

of lazurite – which gives the gem its intense blue colour<br />

– with small amounts of white calcite and pyrite.<br />

It is the metallic flash of pyrite against the deep blue<br />

of lazurite that makes it so attractive to gem collectors<br />

and jewellery artists.<br />

Under a microscope, lapis lazuli looks like the night<br />

sky – with depths of blue lazurite, a fine white haze of<br />

calcite and the starlike sparkle of pyrite.<br />

Lapis ranges in colour from greenish blue to rich royal<br />

blue and violet blue. The most prized – and valuable<br />

– is an intense royal blue featuring minute gold flashes<br />

of pyrite.<br />

Afghanistan is considered the most significant source<br />

of quality lapis. The gem has been mined there for<br />

thousands of years in a remote and inhospitable region,<br />

known historically as Bactria.<br />

Today, other sources are Lake Baikal in Siberia, Chile,<br />

Angola, Pakistan, Canada and Colorado in the US.<br />

Jadeite and nephrite<br />

The lustrous texture and luminous colours of polished<br />

jade have been prized for thousands of years.<br />

Ancient cultures in North, Central and South America,<br />

New Zealand, Asia and Europe valued jade for its<br />

beauty, hardness and durability – properties that made<br />

it suitable for use in implements, jewellery, regalia and<br />

decorative items.<br />

Wearers believed jade endowed them with long life,<br />

good health and fortune, and today jade jewellery still<br />

has strong traditional associations in many cultures.<br />

The name ‘jade’ is the commercial term used for jadeite<br />

68 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Theatre

Early records<br />

indicate<br />

the Ancient<br />

Egyptians<br />

mined a<br />

beautiful green<br />

gemstone”<br />

and nephrite. Despite their similar appearance, these minerals<br />

have distinct gemmological properties.<br />

Both are silicates; jadeite is a sodium and aluminium silicate,<br />

while nephrite is a calcium and magnesium silicate. Both are<br />

polycrystalline in structure, with many interlocking microscopic<br />

crystals, making them some of the toughest materials in the<br />

gem world.<br />

So, what is the difference between the two?<br />

Typically, the name jadeite is associated with a rich deep green<br />

colour, but the gem is found in many hues and is often mottled. The<br />

richer and more even the colour, the higher the value.<br />

In China, jadeite of fine green colour and translucency was once<br />

reserved for the Emperor’s court and is known as ‘imperial jade’.<br />

The presence of iron creates the green hue.<br />

Jadeite has a hardness of 6.5-7 on Mohs’ scale, making it suitable<br />

for use in a range of jewellery. However, it is the gem’s tenacity and<br />

capacity to be carved and fashioned, along with its vitreous lustre,<br />

that makes it attractive to jewellers and gem carvers.<br />

With a hardness of 6–6.5 on Mohs’ scale, nephrite is a little softer<br />

than jadeite, which has a hardness of 6.5–7. However, it has a higher<br />

tenacity and is regarded as the ‘toughest’ of gems.<br />

This property of toughness makes it suitable not only in a range of<br />

jewellery, but also for use in gem carvings and decorative items.<br />

Nephrite that is translucent with a solid green colour is the most<br />

valuable. Mottling of colour or the presence of dark mineral<br />

inclusions lessens the gem’s value.<br />

Nephrite is a more common mineral than jadeite, and its major<br />

sources are New Zealand, Mexico, Peru, British Columbia and<br />

Taiwan. It is the official state mineral of Wyoming.<br />

To the Maori of New Zealand, nephrite – called pounamu or<br />

greenstone – is an important gemstone found on the South Island<br />

around Otago.<br />

It has great cultural significance, used not only for adornments but<br />

also for practical uses, including making tools and weapons.<br />


Elegance added with personality. Designs for him and<br />

her. Innovative timepiece with premium quality.<br />

www.ClassiqueWatches.com<br />

P 02 9290 2199 E Sales@samsgroup.com.au

BLUE & GREEN<br />

Red Carpet Collection<br />


Gemstones in the Spotlight<br />

The A-list have given their seal of approval to statement gems – be inspired by these colourful jewellery pieces worn on the red carpet.<br />

4 More than 50 carats<br />

of intricately carved jade<br />

takes centre stage in the<br />

Naila earrings by jewellery<br />

designer Narcisa Pheres,<br />

accented with delicate<br />

pear-cut emeralds and white<br />

diamonds and set in 18-carat<br />

yellow gold.<br />

Harry Winston<br />

Narcisa Pheres<br />

SAPPHIRE – Zoey Deutch,<br />

Golden Globes 2020<br />

JADE AND EMERALD – Kelly Rowland,<br />

Spotify Secret Genius Awards 2018<br />

Lorraine Schwartz<br />

Bulgari<br />

Van Cleef & Arpels<br />

Tiffany & Co.<br />

EMERALD – Kendall Jenner, Vanity Fair<br />

Oscars Party 2018<br />

EMERALD – Esther Expósito, Cannes<br />

Film Festival <strong>2021</strong><br />


Robbie, Academy Awards 2015<br />

TSAVORITE GARNET – Sophie Turner,<br />

Academy Awards 2016<br />

4 Part of the Gucci<br />

High <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Hortus<br />

Deliciarum Collection,<br />

these white gold earrings<br />

set with diamond and<br />

tsavorite garnet are<br />

inspired by the natural<br />

world, and feature<br />

Gucci's signature lion's<br />

head motif.<br />

Tiffany & Co.<br />

Gucci<br />

AQUAMARINE – Jessica Biel, Academy<br />

Awards 2014<br />

TSAVORITE GARNET – Jodie Turner-<br />

Smith, Cannes Film Festival <strong>2021</strong><br />

70 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Tiffany & Co.<br />

AQUAMARINE – Gal Gadot, Academy<br />

Awards 2018<br />

4 Combining carved<br />

emeralds and cabochon rubies<br />

with sapphire beads and white<br />

diamonds, these statement<br />

chandelier earrings hail from<br />

Cartier’s iconic Tutti Frutti<br />

Collection.<br />

3Taking its cues from<br />

Tiffany & Co. jewellery of<br />

the Art Deco era, this lariat<br />

chain necklace – designed<br />

by Reed Krakoff – comes<br />

from the jewellery house's<br />

2018 Blue Book Collection.<br />

It features show-stopping<br />

icy aquamarines, offset by<br />

pavé white diamonds and<br />

platinum.<br />

Arbe – Family owned,<br />

American know how.<br />

For decades Arbe has been<br />

manufacturing Industry trusted<br />

machinery built to stand the<br />

test of time. Products including<br />

polishing units, casting equipment,<br />

electroplating equipment, magnetic<br />

polishers, lights…..and extensive<br />

range of other products assisting in<br />

the manufacturing process.<br />

Arbe’s quality so renowned their<br />

machines are manufactured for<br />

other industry brands, if you can’t<br />

beat them, join them.<br />

Cartier<br />


Brosnahan, amfAR Gala <strong>2021</strong><br />

3 Nestled amongst<br />

Padparadscha<br />

sapphires and white<br />

diamonds, opulent<br />

white opals meet<br />

27 carats of Paraìba<br />

tourmaline in this<br />

18-carat white gold cuff<br />

from the Chopard Red<br />

Carpet Collection.<br />

Sole distribution rights for Australia,<br />

New Zealand and Pacific.<br />

Chopard<br />

PARAÌBA TOURMALINE – Carla Bruni,<br />

Cannes Film Festival <strong>2021</strong><br />

Contact us at sales@cjservice.com.au<br />

or call Craig - 0408 882 978 or<br />

Steve - 0408 864 640<br />


Stars shine in colour | GEMSTONES IN THE SPOTLIGHT<br />

Red Carpet ‘Gemstones in the Spotlight’ continued...<br />

4 These show-stopping<br />

teardrop earrings by US<br />

designer Irene Neuwirth<br />

feature stunning faceted<br />

lapis lazuli and onyx set<br />

in white gold, accented<br />

with rose-cut white<br />

diamonds and<br />

diamond pavé.<br />

Sylvia & Cie<br />

Irene Neuwirth<br />

JADE – Jennifer Lawrence, BAFTA<br />

Awards 2018<br />

LAPIS LAZULI – Anna Gunn, SAG Awards<br />

2014<br />

Tiffany & Co.<br />

Lorraine Schwartz<br />

Fernando Jorge<br />

Jared Lehr<br />

AQUAMARINE – Kim Kardashian, Tiffany<br />

& Co. Event 2018<br />

TURQUOISE – Sofìa Vergara, Golden<br />

Globes 2014<br />

JADE – Emilia Clarke, Emmy Awards 2018<br />

PERIDOT – Nikki Reed, Elton John<br />

Oscars Viewing Party 2019<br />

4 Aquamarine is the star<br />

of the show in this jewellery<br />

suite by Chopard, mixing<br />

chandelier earrings from the<br />

High <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Collection<br />

with a cocktail ring from the<br />

Temptations Collection. The<br />

earrings feature 30.96 carats of<br />

pear-shape aquamarines set<br />

in blue titanium, while the ring<br />

is set with a 5.11-carat pearshaped<br />

aquamarine accented<br />

with tanzanite, amethyst, and<br />

diamonds.<br />

Harry Winston<br />

Chopard<br />

SAPPHIRE – Helen Mirren, Academy<br />

Awards 2018<br />


Blunt, Academy Awards 2018<br />

72 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

The Blush Pink range is an epitome<br />

of charm and opulence intertwined<br />

together. Delicate and utterly<br />

elegant, it features affordable styles<br />

that retain an exquisite sense of<br />

rare luxury.<br />

Chopard<br />

PARAÌBA TOURMALINE – Salma Hayek,<br />

Golden Globes 2020<br />

Bulgari<br />

SAPPHIRE – Tina Fey, Academy<br />

Awards 2016<br />

5 From the Bulgari High<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Collection, this<br />

Art Deco-inspired necklace<br />

features nine cushion-cut<br />

Sri Lankan sapphires paired<br />

with 18 marquise diamonds,<br />

round brilliant-cut diamonds,<br />

trapezoidal and pavé diamonds,<br />

set in platinum.<br />

Chopard<br />

EMERALD – Julianne Moore, Cannes Film<br />

Festival 2019<br />

David Webb<br />

JADE – Naomie Harris, 'Rampage'<br />

Premiere 2018<br />

E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199


Strategy<br />

What customers want next:<br />

Decoding the clues<br />

JEANNIE WALTERS offers strategies for businesses as they adapt for the future<br />

retail environment – and rapidly shifting consumer behaviour.<br />

Human behaviour is notoriously difficult<br />

to predict; sophisticated modelling and<br />

data analysis can help, but these are<br />

typically based on past behaviour.<br />

Past behaviour might be helpful for<br />

predicting future success if all variables<br />

remain the same, but what if the context<br />

– or the entire environment – changes<br />

over time?<br />

In one study by analytics firm Concentric,<br />

99 per cent of business leaders reported<br />

doing some kind of forecasting, yet only<br />

14 per cent stated they were “effective”<br />

at doing so.<br />

It’s the secret everyone knows – predicting<br />

the future is hard.<br />

Many organisations and businesses are<br />

benefiting from machine learning and<br />

artificial intelligence tools to isolate data<br />

points that can help predict the next<br />

actions of customers, as well as the<br />

likelihood of desired outcomes.<br />

But like any form of analysis, these<br />

methodologies rely on good data – and<br />

many businesses are still ‘playing catch<br />

up’ on getting the inputs right.<br />

So, what can a business leader do<br />

to look ahead and predict future<br />

customer behaviour?<br />

Searching for clues<br />

The first step in predicting customer<br />

behaviour is a simple one – know your<br />

customers and their goals.<br />

Business owners and leaders are regularly<br />

told to improve customer experience in<br />

order to increase sales, but with little<br />

instruction or information on how to do so.<br />

There is no data, there is no defined<br />

goal, and in some cases, there is no<br />

shared understanding of what ‘customer<br />

experience’ is!<br />

Therefore, it’s important to start with<br />

the foundations.<br />

Firstly find out what you can about your<br />

customers. If you have data, such as<br />

purchasing history, use it; if you don’t,<br />

collect whatever feedback you can from<br />

social media and product reviews.<br />

Next, consider your customers’ lives; don’t<br />

get stuck in the ‘our customers only care<br />

about our product’ fantasy!<br />

Too often, I<br />

see business<br />

owners and<br />

leaders struggle<br />

with predictions<br />

because<br />

they create a<br />

universe where<br />

the customer<br />

has one goal<br />

– to use the<br />

company’s<br />

product<br />

To look for clues about how customers may<br />

behave in the future, it’s vital to understand<br />

their present reality.<br />

That means looking beyond basic<br />

demographics or job titles to knowing how<br />

they get their information, the needs their<br />

community has, and other brands to which<br />

they are loyal.<br />

What about their stage of life? Are they<br />

dealing with school schedules or planning<br />

for retirement?<br />

Keep in mind the life they’ve led most<br />

recently; the pandemic created a different<br />

daily routine for most people.<br />

Observe broader trends<br />

Almost without exception, most business<br />

owners and leaders tell me their industry is<br />

unique, but there are absolutely trends that<br />

apply across almost every industry.<br />

For example, a very significant customer<br />

experience trend for the future, across the<br />

market, is a focus on health and safety.<br />

Business owners must look for the trends<br />

and then plan around them.<br />

74 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Business Strategy<br />

Don’t automatically ignore something<br />

because it doesn’t immediately apply to<br />

your industry – eventually, it might!<br />

Another trend is people relocating from<br />

cities to suburbs and regional areas during<br />

the pandemic.<br />

Remote working allowed for this flexibility<br />

and people shifted their lives in order to<br />

accommodate more space and desirable<br />

outdoor living.<br />

What does that mean for your business? It<br />

could mean a lot in terms of store location,<br />

delivery expectations, and even the product<br />

selection on offer.<br />

Too often, I see business owners and<br />

leaders struggle with predictions<br />

because they create a universe where<br />

the customer has one goal – to use the<br />

company’s product.<br />

That’s not how people work, and the<br />

more you can truly pay attention to their<br />

overall environment, the more successful<br />

you’ll be in finding and acting on those<br />

customer clues.<br />

Applying knowledge<br />

Now that you have an idea of the current<br />

consumer environment, what can you do<br />

with these insights?<br />

• Mapping the future customer’s journey<br />

– Who is the customer in one year or<br />

five? What are their needs and<br />

expectations? How can you adapt your<br />

customer journey accordingly?<br />

Journey mapping is an exercise where<br />

a diagram is used to illustrate how a<br />

customer interacts with a business.<br />

The journey starts when the customer<br />

identifies a specific need and progresses<br />

through to researching product options<br />

to meet that need, visiting a bricks-andmortar<br />

or online store, making their<br />

purchase, using the product, seeking<br />

customer service support from the<br />

business, and repeating the purchase.<br />

The way a customer discovers and<br />

purchases from your business in the future<br />

may be very different from how they do<br />

so today; mapping allows you to identify<br />

the areas where you should prioritise<br />

development and investment.<br />

• Fix the future ‘pain points’ – One of<br />

the key elements of customer journey<br />

mapping is identifying ‘pain points’ – the<br />

negative experiences that prevent a<br />

shopper from purchasing or<br />

re-purchasing from a business.<br />

These can include being unable to find the<br />

correct size, an inability to find a suitable<br />

product within budget, or waiting too long<br />

for a response from a business’ customer<br />

service staff.<br />

Compare your current and future<br />

customer journey maps – are there<br />

any existing pain points that could worsen<br />

with time?<br />

For example, more customers are now<br />

comfortable with using their mobile<br />

phone to get information while they’re<br />

shopping in-person, so a store’s slow<br />

Wi-Fi connection could present a barrier<br />

to purchase.<br />

Consider how a customer will use<br />

their device in-store and develop<br />

the environment to support that<br />

new behaviour.<br />

• Invite employee feedback – Employees<br />

have great ideas and often see customer<br />

expectations changing in real time;<br />

they need a way to communicate these<br />

observations and ideas with management.<br />

Customer support staff often hear about<br />

frustrations caused by comparisons to the<br />

competition, such as wait times.<br />

For example, they may say things like,<br />

“Even my car mechanic has a mobile<br />

update system now – why do I have to call<br />

and wait on hold?”<br />

It is important for businesses to be<br />

exposed to all types of feedback, yet<br />

staff may be discouraged from reporting<br />

negative observations.<br />

Keeping your finger on the pulse of change<br />

means looking ahead and getting the<br />

support you need to act quickly.<br />

Don’t ignore the future<br />

Several years ago, IT firm Cisco released<br />

a report about what healthcare providers<br />

and consumers wanted from healthcare.<br />

One of the findings that stood out was the<br />



Dive into data<br />

Collect and use<br />

information<br />

about your<br />

customers to<br />

understand not<br />

just what, but<br />

how and why<br />

they buy<br />

Consider the<br />

whole picture<br />

Research<br />

broader market<br />

trends and<br />

use journeymapping<br />

to<br />

identify pain<br />

points<br />

Act decisively<br />

Turn insights<br />

into action and<br />

make changes<br />

before serious<br />

problems occur<br />

idea that virtual doctor visits – also known<br />

as telehealth – were perfectly acceptable to<br />

many consumers.<br />

The study found that while consumers<br />

still depend heavily on in-person medical<br />

treatments, given a choice between virtual<br />

access to care and human contact, three<br />

quarters said access to care was more<br />

important than physical contact with their<br />

care provider.<br />

Consumers surveyed in the study were<br />

overwhelmingly comfortable with the use of<br />

technology for the clinician interaction.<br />

I read this study in 2013 and thought,<br />

doesn’t this apply to everything?<br />

Everyone is living more frenzied and<br />

complicated lives than ever and while<br />

technology gives us access to services,<br />

it also keeps us tethered to jobs and<br />

obligations like never before.<br />

Therefore, convenience continues to be a<br />

top-ranking driver for customer behaviour<br />

and loyalty. Healthcare is no different, so<br />

why not offer video doctor visits for care<br />

that can be provided in that way?<br />

Yet many healthcare providers ignored this<br />

trend; just think of how many GPs were<br />

still unprepared for the surge in telehealth<br />

consultations in 2020, when the COVID-19<br />

pandemic began!<br />

They were scrambling to set up basic<br />

video connections, and many still required<br />

patients to call their office to schedule<br />

those appointments.<br />

Patients had been asking for that type<br />

of service for nearly a decade, and they<br />

missed or dismissed the clues.<br />

It was – and is – simpler and less expensive<br />

to simply keep doing what’s always been<br />

done, until it isn’t.<br />

Inertia is a powerful force, and it is all<br />

too easy to just let things happen the way<br />

they always have. Leaders look ahead and<br />

consider the clues, then, most importantly,<br />

they act.<br />

JEANNIE WALTERS is founder and<br />

CEO of Experience Investigators. Learn<br />

more: experienceinvestigators.com<br />

<strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 75


Selling<br />

What is a store without sales?<br />

A strong sales culture should be the first priority of retail business owners, yet many are<br />

lacking this focus – or a plan for improvement, writes JOSH STRUTT.<br />

The secret to a focused, motivated and<br />

goal-orientated retail team is not found<br />

on the sales floor – in fact, it starts in the<br />

back room.<br />

When assessing a retail store’s<br />

performance, there is a tell-tale sign<br />

within this room that reveals the true<br />

focus of the business: clear, obvious sales<br />

targets and sales performance indicators,<br />

as well as customer service scores, are<br />

nowhere to be seen.<br />

Retail is a competitive business – yet<br />

highlighting the performance of sales<br />

staff seems to be an area of question to<br />

some retailers and some do not even set<br />

sales goals.<br />

However, without a goal and clear<br />

objectives, staff are not motivated to<br />

achieve. It's like a sports team; without the<br />

primary objective to win the game, what is<br />

the point in playing in the first place?<br />

‘Fit’ businesses put sales at the centre of<br />

their operations; if senior managers are<br />

not discussing sales in general and with<br />

individual staff, it is unrealistic to think staff<br />

will make sales their number-one priority.<br />

Creating a sales culture<br />

Below are a few key questions to determine<br />

if a store has a ‘fit’ sales culture and<br />

identify areas that could be improved.<br />

As a business owner, do you:<br />

• Have weekly and daily sales targets<br />

displayed in the back room for all staff?<br />

• Employ managers who are passionate<br />

about increasing sales?<br />

• Benchmark key performance indicators<br />

such as items per sale, average spend and<br />

conversion – and measure them?<br />

• Hold daily start-up meetings to<br />

motivate staff, introduce new products and<br />

promotions and allocate targets?<br />

• Measure sales performance by product<br />

category to product against stock holding?<br />

• Have an incentive program that rewards<br />

sales achievements?<br />

Set clear sales targets and ensure all staff work towards them.<br />

• Have a sales education program that is<br />

tailored to your business type?<br />

• Have individual coaching sessions with<br />

staff based on their performance?<br />

• See team member’s individual sales<br />

increasing with their experience and<br />

training?<br />

Hire to win<br />

Another way to determine if you have a<br />

strong sales culture is by asking managers<br />

and staff to anonymously nominate their<br />

top three goals for the business.<br />

If they do not nominate increasing sales as<br />

their number-one goal, it may be time to<br />

introduce further training, conferences, or<br />

new recruitment practices.<br />

As the old adage goes, ‘Recruit the will,<br />

teach the skill.’ Enthusiasm can be<br />

fostered and encouraged, but if your new<br />

staff member isn’t motivated from their<br />

first day, will they be motivated in a year?<br />

Clear, standardised recruitment guidelines<br />

help to create a team that is focused on a<br />

common goal.<br />

It's also a good idea to examine your<br />

business’ turnover rate and the reasons<br />

staff left and when. There is almost always<br />

a common trend, and it may come down to<br />

inconsistent recruitment – that is, hiring<br />

the wrong people.<br />

‘Fit’ businesses<br />

put sales at the<br />

centre of their<br />

operations; if<br />

senior managers<br />

are not<br />

discussing sales<br />

in general and<br />

with individual<br />

staff, it is<br />

unrealistic to<br />

think staff will<br />

make sales their<br />

number-one<br />

priority<br />

Additionally, more than 70 per cent of exit<br />

surveys conducted by Retail Doctor Group<br />

(RDG) showed that staff who initiated<br />

leaving did so because they did not feel<br />

engaged with the business.<br />

Engaged employees feel a sense of<br />

purpose, contribution and growth in a<br />

business. RDG research tells us that<br />

engaged, motivated staff deliver an<br />

average 20 per cent higher sales and<br />

margin improvement.<br />

They are also more loyal, have lower<br />

turnover and are more productive.<br />

Education and engagement<br />

Are your sales staff fully confident in<br />

the product range, and the features and<br />

benefits of the products they are selling?<br />

If the answer is not a resounding yes,<br />

more training – such as practicing sales<br />

scenarios at a weekly team meeting and<br />

educating staff on cross- or upselling<br />

strategies – is essential.<br />

Once you introduce new staff, ensure<br />

they have a clear mentor or senior staff<br />

member to guide them, rather than a<br />

direct manager or boss. This ‘go-to person’<br />

should induct the new staff member into<br />

the business’ sales focus.<br />

Match your new employee with someone<br />

with whom they are comfortable asking<br />

questions and expressing their concerns,<br />

and who is able to communicate effectively.<br />

Putting these practices in place not<br />

only fosters a strong sales culture, but<br />

also creates a positive atmosphere of<br />

improvement and connection.<br />

Without both, it is very difficult – if not<br />

impossible – for a business to increase<br />

sales and maintain those improvements.<br />

JOSH STRUTT is Retail Doctor Group’s<br />

strategy analyst. His background is in<br />

maximising operational efficiency to<br />

drive growth. Visit: retaildoctor.com.au<br />

76 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Management<br />

Is there ever a good way to deliver bad news?<br />

From performance criticism to budget cuts, bad news is a part of business –<br />

but there are ways to mitigate and manage the damage, writes BRI WILLIAMS.<br />

In Australia, we have experienced<br />

various degrees of lockdown across<br />

the country over the past year, and our<br />

political leaders have been grappling<br />

with how best to share bad news.<br />

The NSW government started with a<br />

relatively light-touch approach that<br />

has become more stringent the longer<br />

lockdown has lasted. In Victoria, the<br />

message and conditions were restrictive<br />

from the get-go.<br />

While I won’t go into the relative merits<br />

of each lockdown, I do want to reflect on<br />

the psychology of sharing and receiving<br />

bad news.<br />

Given every business owner or leader will<br />

have to be the bearer of bad news at some<br />

time or another, what does science tell us<br />

about how to best approach it?<br />

Forget the 'sandwich'<br />

A popular approach to giving bad news,<br />

particularly in performance reviews, is to<br />

‘sandwich’ the negatives between more<br />

positive information.<br />

An example might be, “I really liked how<br />

you ran that last project, but I think you<br />

need to work harder on your presentation<br />

skills. All-in-all, I think you are a great<br />

team player.”<br />

It’s a popular approach because it<br />

makes the deliverer feel better about<br />

giving criticism; it starts positive and<br />

ends positive, thereby avoiding any<br />

social awkwardness.<br />

The problem is, most people are waiting<br />

for the “but” – they miss any of the<br />

good news you want them to hear. This<br />

is largely due to negativity bias, which<br />

means we are wired to pay attention to<br />

the negative more than the positive.<br />

You are also confusing the message and<br />

diluting its importance.<br />

Instead, try framing a performance<br />

review discussion by saying, “Thanks for<br />

meeting with me. Today I want to cover<br />

two aspects of your performance, as I see<br />

it. First, we’ll cover areas I’d like to see<br />

Being the bearer of bad news is all about managing emotions.<br />

some improvement, and second, we’ll<br />

talk through where you are excelling.<br />

Does that sound good?”<br />

This approach still has enough of the<br />

social niceties and it ends on a high, but<br />

it deliberately demarcates the negatives<br />

and positives.<br />

Anchor expectations<br />

There is a reason many of us seek to<br />

under promise and over deliver – it’s a<br />

form of expectation management.<br />

Anchoring expectations low means you<br />

can come back with good news later,<br />

which is infinitely more pleasurable than<br />

anchoring high and having to return with<br />

bad news, which is a double whammy –<br />

not only was your original estimate off,<br />

but you failed to deliver as well!<br />

However, anchoring low isn’t without<br />

its problems. Firstly, if you do it all the<br />

time to the same people, they will start<br />

to second-guess your ability to estimate<br />

accurately, and alter their expectations.<br />

Secondly, if your anchor is unpalatable,<br />

you may be dismissed outright. For<br />

example, telling someone a repair will<br />

take you two months to complete instead<br />

of four weeks may mean they’ll choose<br />

someone else.<br />

Thirdly, people will plan around your<br />

anchor, so if it’s too outlandish you might<br />

end up annoying them with budgeting or<br />

productivity gaps – put simply, delivering<br />

Anchoring<br />

expectations<br />

low means you<br />

can come back<br />

with good news<br />

later, which is<br />

infinitely more<br />

pleasurable than<br />

anchoring high<br />

and having to<br />

return with bad<br />

news – however,<br />

anchoring low<br />

isn't without its<br />

problems<br />

a project two weeks before you said you<br />

would may not be good news!<br />

This low anchor has been a challenge<br />

with lockdowns, particularly in NSW.<br />

Restrictions started in a light-touch,<br />

advisory way before being progressively<br />

strengthened. As a result, the more<br />

stringent restrictions felt worse for<br />

people psychologically.<br />

In Victoria, tough restrictions, such as<br />

a 5km boundary and a curfew, set a<br />

high anchor point; that meant the news<br />

improved as restrictions were relaxed<br />

and more freedoms allowed.<br />

Experience is not the problem<br />

Psychologist, author and Nobel laureate<br />

Daniel Kahneman has described a<br />

psychological phenomenon called<br />

the ‘peak-end rule’ – human beings<br />

remember moments of peak emotion and<br />

the end of an experience.<br />

Applying this to bad news, the biggest<br />

takeaway is to focus on how you make<br />

people feel and how you leave them.<br />

Think back to the performance review<br />

example; the criticism you share will<br />

likely be the most intense part of the<br />

experience for the employee – the ‘peak’.<br />

To manage their emotional response,<br />

be direct and assured, but also<br />

compassionate. Remember that you<br />

can use positive framing for bad news –<br />

something like, “This is where I see your<br />

greatest opportunity for development” –<br />

to signal your support for them.<br />

The end is also important; leaving the<br />

employee with clear examples of what<br />

they are doing well means they will have<br />

the confidence and reassurance from you<br />

to continue to perform.<br />

BRI WILLIAMS is founder of People<br />

Patterns, a specialist consultancy<br />

that applies behavioural science to<br />

everyday business issues. Visit:<br />

www.briwilliams.com<br />

<strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 77


Marketing & PR<br />

How to create a winning loyalty program<br />

for your customers<br />

Loyalty programs offer myriad benefits for businesses, explains SIMON DELL,<br />

who advises the ins and outs of strategies to keep shoppers coming back for more.<br />

There are few things more valuable to a<br />

business than loyal customers, but how do<br />

you attract those shoppers and keep them<br />

coming back?<br />

Naturally, delivering great service and<br />

products is one way – but a loyalty program<br />

is even better.<br />

Offering loyalty benefits is a great way to<br />

say 'thank you' to returning shoppers, as<br />

well as attracting new ones – and there are<br />

other benefits for businesses too.<br />

Create a connection<br />

Today, customers want to make an<br />

emotional connection with brands, which<br />

is why you may have noticed so many<br />

businesses prioritising open and honest<br />

communication with shoppers.<br />

The business tells their story, in the hopes<br />

that customers will identify with them and<br />

support them accordingly.<br />

Loyalty programs provide a platform for<br />

that long-lasting connection; it is not just<br />

about ‘freebies’, discounts and rewards,<br />

but also communicating and connecting<br />

with customers in a positive way.<br />

Harness technology<br />

Traditionally, a loyalty program may have<br />

been confined to email communication, or<br />

even ‘snail mail’!<br />

Now, businesses can provide an omnichannel<br />

experience for their customers.<br />

When setting up a loyalty program, these<br />

are some of the ever-expanding points<br />

of interaction at which you can provide<br />

benefits for, and communicate with,<br />

customers:<br />

• Apps – Send alerts, discounts, or offers<br />

to customers through your business’ app;<br />

alternatively, an app can simply offer a fun<br />

and convenient way to interact<br />

• Social media – Social media is now a<br />

necessity for loyalty programs. It is not<br />

only convenient, but also gives customers<br />

a chance to share and promote your<br />

business to like-minded shoppers<br />

• Email – We all hate spam, but when your<br />

Rewarding customers is more complex than it first appears.<br />

customers are engaged enough to willingly<br />

seek email offers and communication, take<br />

the opportunity! Email is a great way to<br />

announce sales, introduce new products,<br />

educate customers, or offer exclusive<br />

discounts<br />

• Text messages – In advertising terms,<br />

using text messages is a relatively new<br />

phenomenon, but it’s very effective. Use<br />

texts to let your loyal customers know<br />

about special offers and limited time<br />

opportunities, but be careful not to come<br />

across like spam or a scam!<br />

This omni-channel approach lets you show<br />

customers they are valued and makes<br />

them feel included. It also keeps your<br />

business top-of-mind, allowing you to take<br />

advantage of opportunities to secure a sale<br />

at any time of the day.<br />

Understand what customers want<br />

Delivering value is one of the key<br />

components of any loyalty program.<br />

When creating your loyalty program,<br />

research what your customers respond<br />

to – whether it be exclusive sales, birthday<br />

discounts, or earning points.<br />

Either in-store or online, you can also<br />

reward customers with a special gift at<br />

the point of purchase. This shows genuine<br />

appreciation and asks nothing of the<br />

customer in return.<br />

Loyalty<br />

programs are of<br />

course designed<br />

to increase<br />

customer<br />

loyalty and keep<br />

people shopping<br />

with you, with<br />

the end goal to<br />

generate more<br />

sales and profits<br />

– but it should<br />

never appear<br />

that way<br />

Disguise the ‘sell’<br />

Loyalty programs are of course designed<br />

to increase customer loyalty and keep<br />

people shopping with you, with the end goal<br />

to generate more sales and profits – but it<br />

should never appear that way.<br />

Building customer loyalty is about<br />

making genuine connections and showing<br />

appreciation for continued business.<br />

You should absolutely offer special deals<br />

and benefits to loyalty program customers,<br />

but only if it delivers real value to them.<br />

An example of this is tier-based loyalty<br />

programs. This system can work well from<br />

a psychological perspective, as customers<br />

will want to maintain their current tier – or,<br />

if they are just shy of the next tier, spend a<br />

little more to reach that threshold.<br />

However, the system can fail if reaching the<br />

next tier does not deliver a tangible benefit.<br />

Similarly, consumers respond better<br />

to promotions that feel special and<br />

personalised – for example, birthdaybased<br />

rewards emails have a far higher<br />

transaction rate and generate more<br />

revenue than standard promotional emails,<br />

according to research by Experian.<br />

Create meaningful interactions<br />

Encouraging a customer to be loyal to<br />

your business is a long and ever-changing<br />

process. All customers value different<br />

things so don’t be afraid to interact openly<br />

and honestly with them.<br />

Ask what they want, give them a say in new<br />

products or ideas, make your interactions<br />

meaningful, and people will take a genuine<br />

interest.<br />

The rewards of a loyalty program are a<br />

bonus and a way for you to thank them for<br />

their contribution.<br />

SIMON DELL is co-founder and CEO<br />

of Cemoh, a Brisbane-based firm that<br />

provides marketing staff on demand.<br />

He specialises in digital marketing and<br />

brand management. Visit: cemoh.com<br />

78 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Logged On<br />

The simplified guide to digital marketing<br />

BETH WALKER presents a concise guide to the world of digital marketing for business<br />

owners, from content marketing to SEO and social media.<br />

When I tell people I work in digital<br />

marketing, they often respond by saying<br />

they don't want to sell their products or<br />

services on social media.<br />

This reaction is understandable.<br />

These days, social media isn't always kind,<br />

and the algorithms used to determine which<br />

accounts and posts reach the most eyes<br />

are unpredictable.<br />

For this reason, I advise businesses to<br />

think of social media as the icing on<br />

the multi-layered cake of their digital<br />

marketing strategy.<br />

One definition of digital marketing is that<br />

it is the strategy of using the internet to<br />

market a business.<br />

The goal of digital marketing should be to<br />

create and optimise information that helps<br />

a business’ ideal customers understand<br />

everything about the business, which then<br />

makes them more likely to trust – and<br />

therefore purchase – from that business.<br />

It is a broad concept, and includes content<br />

marketing, search engine optimisation<br />

(SEO), social media marketing, website<br />

development and design, pay-per-click<br />

(PPC) advertising, lead generation, lead<br />

nurturing, and email marketing.<br />

These elements can be grouped roughly<br />

into two sections – content marketing and<br />

website development.<br />

Content marketing<br />

Content is the most time-consuming and<br />

often the most expensive part of a digital<br />

marketing strategy but it is key to engaging<br />

and exciting potential customers.<br />

When a business provides valuable<br />

information and keeps its online audience<br />

informed about its activities, it adds value.<br />

There is a lot of ‘noise’ on the internet and<br />

content marketing helps you to distinguish<br />

your business as a space where customers<br />

won't have their time wasted.<br />

As the business owner, you will know the<br />

types of content your customers need.<br />

Using keywords, you can create content<br />

Digital marketing is a broad concept with many different elements.<br />

about the most important topics for<br />

your business.<br />

When you develop a library of assets<br />

that are well-written or produced,<br />

authoritative, relevant, and attract your<br />

audience's attention, you will quickly<br />

become an authority in your field.<br />

Content marketing assets include:<br />

• Web page content<br />

• Blog posts<br />

• Emails<br />

• Infographics<br />

• Whitepapers<br />

• E-books<br />

• Videos<br />

• Podcasts<br />

• How-to guides<br />

• Webinars<br />

Content marketing also includes social<br />

media, lead generation, lead nurturing,<br />

and email marketing.<br />

Website development<br />

Your most important digital asset is<br />

your website. It is vital to have a website<br />

that presents a clear message and has<br />

easy navigation.<br />

User experience is something that can't<br />

The goal<br />

of digital<br />

marketing<br />

should be to<br />

create and<br />

optimise<br />

information<br />

that helps a<br />

business’ ideal<br />

customers<br />

understand<br />

everything<br />

about the<br />

business<br />

be overlooked, so it is critical to seek a<br />

visually appealing design.<br />

It's also necessary that your site is fully<br />

optimised for SEO, providing you with the<br />

best opportunities to rank highly in relevant<br />

Google searches.<br />

Incorporate SEO best practices into your<br />

website’s content, meta descriptions,<br />

and titles, incorporating key terms your<br />

customers – and potential customers – are<br />

using to search for businesses like yours.<br />

Finally, you'll need to connect your website<br />

to Google Analytics and Search Console<br />

– formerly known as Google Webmaster<br />

Tools – so you can ensure your site is being<br />

found on Google.<br />

Measurable results<br />

To ensure your digital marketing strategy is<br />

successful, it's important to analyse each<br />

element. This ensures your effort, time and<br />

resouces are actually working to connect<br />

you with your desired audience.<br />

However, the prospect of managing a digital<br />

marketing strategy may seem daunting, and<br />

you may want to seek further assistance.<br />

If you start searching for the terms and<br />

strategies highlighted in this article, you<br />

will find thousands of get-rich-quick<br />

pitches, hundreds of websites with people<br />

stating they are digital marketing experts,<br />

and just as many videos and webinars.<br />

Each will have a different way of doing<br />

things. So, who do you trust?<br />

If marketers are willing to teach you what<br />

they know to help you get started, that is a<br />

good sign. It is also a good idea to listen to<br />

a company that can prove its methodology<br />

with case studies.<br />

If a business cannot transparently show<br />

that its strategies work, why should you<br />

waste your time?<br />

BETH WALKER writes for US-based<br />

SMA Marketing, which specialises<br />

in digital marketing strategies for<br />

businesses. Visit: smamarketing.net<br />

<strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 79

My Bench<br />

Rick Southwick<br />

Rick Southwick Bespoke <strong>Jeweller</strong>y, Sydney NSW<br />

Years in Trade 45 • Training Trained under Graham Whitehead in London and Rob Gardner in Sydney • First job Lambert & Freed, Sydney NSW, 1978<br />

• Other Qualifications Blues guitar<br />


‘THE ORB'<br />


There are three divergent design elements I have combined in<br />

this ring. Firstly, and the core of the design is Victorian scroll<br />

work; second, and less obvious, is a subtle Egyptian touch with<br />

my interpretation of the god Anubis in the shoulders; and thirdly –<br />

and even less obvious – is the Louis XV furniture leg. The reversed<br />

leg features prominently in another of my signature styles.<br />

4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE I do have a fondness<br />

for green tourmalines, especially complemented<br />

with diamonds as they bring the rich, earthy colour<br />

to the fore.<br />

4FAVOURITE METAL It has to be platinum,<br />

which is a formidable metal but once understood<br />

can be turned into sculptural works with sweeping<br />

sharp edges and a clean, bright, natural<br />

white colour.<br />

4FAVOURITE TOOL Saw frame. I believe it to be<br />

a jeweller’s most important instrument and once<br />

mastered – I spent a full seven months training<br />

on it in London – allows for greater technical and<br />

creative depth.<br />


Micromotor Drill. You have total control over speed<br />

variations, allowing delicate work that is difficult<br />

to achieve with confidence on a standard flexible<br />

shaft drill.<br />

4BEST PART OF THE JOB Designing and creating<br />

jewellery. Full stop.<br />

4WORST PART OF THE JOB Creative block – it’s<br />

like walking through a desert!<br />

4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER I had two mentors<br />

– Graham Whitehead in London and Rob Gardner<br />

in Sydney – who both instilled in me that designing<br />

and creating jewellery is a holistic experience.<br />

When applicable, allow a design to evolve while<br />

creating it. That freedom is liberating.<br />

4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Find mentors who<br />

have the skills you want to learn, even if that<br />

means going halfway round the world and walking<br />

door-to-door to find them!<br />


Posture is a key to longevity. The bench is<br />

an extension of the jeweller, so it should be<br />

ergonomically set up for ease of use and fluidity.<br />

4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE It has given me<br />

a career spanning the globe, learning Victorian<br />

jewellery-making skills in London and the<br />

intricacies of style and proportion in Sydney, and<br />

has led me to tapping into my own ‘creative well’.<br />

I couldn’t imagine doing anything else.<br />

80 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Soapbox<br />

Regulation is stifling Australia’s<br />

artisanal gemstone miners<br />

An avalanche of bureaucracy and rising costs are burying small-scale mining<br />

businesses and crushing a vibrant industry’s potential, writes LILO STADLER.<br />

Australia’s gemstone mining industry<br />

– ranging from our unique opal to<br />

parti-colour sapphire, chrysoprase and<br />

emerald – is largely made up of smallscale<br />

miners, many of which are either<br />

sole traders or family businesses.<br />

Sadly, their job is becoming more and more<br />

difficult because of the government.<br />

Both levels of government – state and<br />

federal – treat small mining operations like<br />

the ‘big boys’ of oil, gas and minerals; they<br />

have the same expectations of them and<br />

bury them under endless regulations.<br />

It’s unfair and it’s wrong, as it has major<br />

consequences not only for the miners<br />

themselves but also for the rest of the<br />

supply chain.<br />

In the course of my business, I’ve<br />

encountered many miners who have<br />

developed an ‘us and them’ attitude; they<br />

are hostile to and suspicious of any extra<br />

paperwork or conditions the wholesaler<br />

might legally require, thus making our job<br />

more onerous too.<br />

They are drowning in regulations already,<br />

and I feel sorry for them because it’s an<br />

awful position in which to be.<br />

When it comes to the mining paperwork<br />

itself, I’ve seen first-hand how difficult it<br />

can be to understand and complete.<br />

My son has a university education and is a<br />

miner himself, and he is reluctant to give<br />

help or advice to others because of the<br />

complexities involved.<br />

How are people supposed to deal with<br />

government bodies who are making their<br />

lives a misery, whilst paying through the<br />

nose for the privilege?<br />

The over-regulation is appalling and over<br />

the past 20 years that has quadrupled;<br />

the cost for miners to register a claim has<br />

risen four or five times in 10 years.<br />

That is extraordinary.<br />

In NSW, the cost of a standard mineral<br />

claim starts at more than $1,000, renewals<br />

start at more than $350, and opal<br />

prospecting licences are charged on top of<br />

that – a minimum of $589.<br />

For larger claims of two hectares, the fees<br />

can be as high as $6,300.<br />

As I said previously, many mining<br />

operations – particularly those mining<br />

for opals – are sole traders or family<br />

businesses; this type of regulation is a<br />

burden and it’s unnecessary.<br />

You can spend hours simply trying to read<br />

the paperwork, let alone fill it out.<br />

The NSW Opal and Gemstone Mining Guide<br />

alone is more than 230 pages long.<br />

In Queensland, many are transitioning<br />

from leases to a small miners claim<br />

system. However there are still as many<br />

as seven layers of costs, including rent,<br />

Indigenous and landholder compensation,<br />

council rates, environmental authority<br />

fees, and camp and mining security bonds.<br />

You may even need the Land Court involved<br />

to have a mining claim approved.<br />

How can the ordinary person with a small<br />

claim, or a person who speaks English<br />

as a second language, be expected to<br />

handle that?<br />

Even worse, the regulations change<br />

state-to-state, so if you are operating in<br />

more than one state you are expected to<br />

abide by separate regulations, paperwork,<br />

and fee structures.<br />

The overregulation<br />

is<br />

appalling and<br />

over the past 20<br />

years that has<br />

quadrupled; the<br />

cost for miners<br />

to register a<br />

claim has risen<br />

four or five<br />

times in<br />

10 years<br />

Is it possible to solve this problem?<br />

Unfortunately, as an industry, we have<br />

very little say in the political process.<br />

Broadly, there are very few industry<br />

associations with the money or staff to<br />

lobby politicians or promote these issues<br />

through the media.<br />

Large oil or gas mining companies have<br />

teams of staff and separate budgets<br />

dedicated to this type of thing, but<br />

artisanal mining doesn’t have the same<br />

resources. Even if you were to speak to<br />

a politician about these problems, they<br />

would get a glazed look in their eye!<br />

Opal is our national gemstone and should<br />

be treated as such, yet politicians seem to<br />

disregard it – and the people who produce<br />

it. When was the last time you saw an<br />

Australian politician wearing an opal?<br />

But they should care; our opals are a<br />

reliable, high-value export commodity<br />

and are much sought-after overseas,<br />

with markets willing to pay a premium<br />

for our product.<br />

Ditto Australian sapphires which have also<br />

become incredibly popular in recent years,<br />

both with local consumers and overseas.<br />

If politicians truly care about the industry<br />

they should show a will to guarantee that<br />

it thrives now and into the future.<br />

That means ensuring artisanal gemstone<br />

mining is considered a special category<br />

and is, therefore, regulated separately and<br />

appropriately.<br />

Name: Lilo Stadler<br />

Business: Bolda<br />

Position: Director<br />

Location: Noosa Heads, Queensland<br />

Years in the industry: 45<br />

82 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>



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