KNITmuch Issue 13

KNITmuch
a raspberry beret · wrap · cowls · socks · pullovers
* The many
ways of
measuring
yarn
* Combining
7 different
colors on
a knitted
sweater
...to K, is to
Issue 13
KNITTING
with
Colorburst
Odette
Penna
* Consistency
in pattern
when
working in
the round
* Matching the
right pattern
with the
right yarn
* Designing
a men's
sweater vest
* Making a
steeked
V-neck
WHICH MEASUREMENTS MATTER IN DESIGNING A MEN’S SWEATER VEST?

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR
Carla A. Canonico
Carla@KNITmuch.com
ADVERTISING SALES
John De Fusco
John@KNITmuch.com
PUBLISHER
A Needle Pulling Thread
PHOTOGRAPHERS
John De Fusco, Carla A. Canonico, Contributors
BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS
Fiona Stevenson
Ravelry: fionastevensondesigns
Cindy O'Malley
cindooknits.blogspot.com
Charles Voth
charlesvothdesigns.ca
Cynthia MacDougall
cgknitters.ca
GRAPHIC DESIGN
Carla A. Canonico
Carla@KNITmuch.com
Sondra Armas
Sondra@KNITmuch.com
SOCIAL MEDIA and WEB
Sondra Armas
Alejandro Araujo
WEBSITE / BLOG : KNITmuch.com
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WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY
KNITmuch is a quarterly eMagazine published by A
Needle Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use
online at KNITmuch.com.
A limited number of printed copies of KNITmuch are available for
purchase at select yarn shops and specialty stores. Ask for it at your
local shop. KNITmuch is not available by subscription.
YARN SHOPS
If you are interested in carrying KNITmuch in your store,
please email John@KNITmuch.com.
EDITORIAL
Bloggers, designers and other contributors who would
like to be considered for future issues please email
Carla@KNITmuch.com with a brief description of your
work and your proposed project.
©2021 KNITmuch. All rights reserved. Issue 13.
ISSN 2368-5913.
No part of this publication may be reproduced without
written permission from the publisher.
All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are
for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted
material owned by their respective creators or owners.
www.KNITmuch.com
Visit and download our free ebook:
Cynthia MacDougall's
Knitting Essentials!
2 KNITmuch | issue 13

KNITmuch
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Knit Together - The Many Ways of Measuring Yarn
Light and feathery Odette has the grace and elegance of a swan
Various swatches disclose the chameleon qualities of Odette yarn
The challenge of combining 7 different colors on a knitted sweater
The strength and beauty of Odette make a perfect pair of socks
Leftover yarn from the sweater makes a warm and cushy cowl
Textured washcloth in Cotton Supreme
Oodles of noodles with crisscrossed ribbing in Bella Chenille yarn
Not knit nupps nor knots: buds are the alternative stitch!
Taking Bamboo Pop yarn for a “bumpy” ride
Feathery soft knitting with Penna
Knitting swatches in keeping with an open and airy look
Consistency in pattern when working in the round
Combining Penna with another yarn makes for endless possibilities
Elegance when matching the right pattern with the right yarn
Designing a men’s sweater vest using Universal Yarn Colorburst
Which measurements matter in designing a men’s sweater vest?
Calculations for a men’s Colorburst sweater vest
Colorburst looks best with a steeked V-neck
Designing those just-right finishing touches on the Colorburst vest
Standard yarn weights, abbreviations and terms
contents
KNITmuch | issue 13
3

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4 KNITmuch | issue 13

editor's
letter
Can you feel the season turning?
Just yesterday a long standing heatwave ended,
and suddenly it feels more like fall. This can
only raise one question: Am I ready for the
colder months ahead? The answer is now on
my knitting needles! I'm very close to finishing
a cardi I'm knitting for myself that was inspired
by Cynthia MacDougall's extraordinary Tilted
Maple Leaf Henley from
Issue 55 of A Needle
Pulling Thread magazine.
It is a stunning piece,
but I'm very sure I
wouldn't wear a Henley
- it's just not my style.
But as knitters we have
such freedom to alter
and adapt the patterns
we want to knit into
I hope this letter
finds you
in good health.
garments we are sure to
wear. So, with pencil and
paper in hand, I checked the
numbers in the leaf chart
and in the cardi pattern to
find out that I could only
place the full leaf on the
back, since the cardi fronts
had too few stitches. I'm
okay with that. Cynthia did a
fantastic job in charting that leaf!
In this issue is a chance for you to learn how
patterns can be created and/or adapted to
your body type. See Charles Voth's feature on
designing a men's sweater vest and what to
know every step of the process. You'll use this
framework for other garments too in designing
for men and women. Also with Charles is a
chance to try five unique stitch patterns in
various yarns from Universal Yarn.
Check out Cindy O'Malley's features on testing
out the characteristics of Penna and Odette
yarns, making pullovers and other fun to wear
accessories!
I'll be back in the next issue with a photo and
more comments on my version of the Tilted
Maple Leaf Henley/cardi, ready for the fall and
winter seasons!
Cheerfully,
follow me
KNITmuch | issue 13
5

Knit Together
with Cynthia MacDougall
The Many Ways of Measuring Yarn
Photo by Mike Guilbault.
Cynthia MacDougall
Canadian Guild of Knitters
PO Box 20262
Barrie, Ontario L4M 6E9
705.722.6495
1.866.245.5648 (CGK-KNIT)
www.CGKnitters.ca
blog: cgknitters.blogspot.com
ravelry name: theloveofknit
6 KNITmuch | issue 13
A
beginning knitter recently
observed that the yarn for one
of her knitting patterns was
listed in yards and grams. She observed
that these are two different methods of
measurement and she asked me, “How
do you know if the weight the pattern
says will be enough to make a sweater?”
Both, yards (or meters) and grams (or
ounces) are systems of measurement.
Yards and meters are linear measures;
grams and ounces are measures of mass.
Used together, these two measures offer
clues about the third way to measure yarn:
thickness or grist. Grist is a broad enough
topic for another article, so, this article will
focus on linear and mass measurements.
So much about knitting is variable.
Yarn weight and yardage information
in patterns are usually estimated. A
difference in the tension, or gauge, will
impact the take-up of yarn, and affect
the amount of yarn needed to complete
the project. Adjustments for the wearer
– sleeve length, for example – may
require more or less yarn. Substituting
a different yarn than the one called for
by the pattern may change the amount
of yarn needed to complete a project.
Some of the information on ball bands
is estimated. In short, individual results
may vary.
Designers usually create patterns for one
size and make adjustments for other sizes
using a process called ‘grading.’ Unless the
knitter is making the size the designer
used to create the base size for the pattern,
both the grams and yardage of yarn given
in the pattern are estimates. Sometimes
a pattern will be test-knit in more than
one size, but, generally, the yarn amounts
are estimated by using mathematical
calculations based upon the amount of
yarn used to make the sample garment.
In most cases, the designer will overstate
the amount of yarn needed to make the
garment, to ensure the knitter has enough
yarn to finish the project. But, if a knitter’s
tension varies even as little as one-quarter
of a stitch over 4 inches/10cm, extra yarn
may be needed to finish the project.
Knowing the approximate yardage
of the yarn prescribed by the pattern
makes it easier to substitute yarn,
whether the substitution is due to
replacing a discontinued yarn or
one with a different fiber content.
Different fibers have different
masses. A pound of wool is larger
in mass than a pound of cotton
and 50 grams of wool has more
yardage than 50 grams of cotton in
most cases. So, if a pattern calls for 10
balls of a woollen yarn that has 200
meters per 50 gram ball the pattern
calls for a total of 2000 meters of
yarn. If the knitter wants to use a
cotton yarn that has 180 meters
per 50 gram ball, he or she can
deduce that two more balls of the
cotton yarn is needed to have at
least 2000 meters of yarn. (Ten
balls of the cotton yarn equals
1800 meters. Eleven balls has
1980 meters, which might be
enough to get by, but having
2160 meters on hand is better.)
Manufacturers are required
to cite the accurate weight of
the yarn. Yardage, however, is
optional, and when it is given,
it is usually estimated. Yardage
was rarely cited on ball bands
until the 1990s. Although it
is estimated, it is useful data,
nonetheless.

Many parts of a knitting pattern – needle
sizes, sleeve length, and even some
details such as the placement of decreases
– can be considered guidelines rather
than rules. The quantity of yarn for the
pattern is one of those parts.
Knitting patterns are formulated on
the basis of real experience plus mathematical
estimates for quantities of
yarn, whether these are determined by
weight or length. Subtle differences in
tension make a difference in the finished
result. Yarn substitutions and yarn fiber
substitutions vary the amount of yarn
required. Patterns can – and should – be
adjusted to suit the wearer. Such adjustments
affect yarn requirements. The
yardage on the ball bands are estimates.
Each of these variables or a combination
of them impact the amount of yarn
actually needed to complete a project.
Whatever the reason, if there is any doubt
that there will be sufficient yarn for a
project, purchase an extra ball – or two.
Yarn shop staff often recommends this
and it is good advice, not a way to improve
the shop’s sales. Extra yarn can be used to
make a matching hat, scarf, mittens, or a
smaller project for a smaller recipient: a
baby sweater or dog coat. Inquire about
the yarn vendor’s return policy: some
suppliers will allow a refund or exchange
of unneeded yarn. If so, keep the receipt
in a safe place. Regardless of the supplier's
policy, the best policy for a knitter to
adopt is to ensure there is enough yarn on
hand to complete the project.
Sources:
The Romance of Weights and Measures, Viking Press, 1960
Wikipedia - information about Bradford Count and Tex
Master Spinner’s Program Level 3 material, Olds College, AB
Keep Me Warm One Night, University of Toronto Press, 1972
Historically…
Wool was sold in bags weighed
by mass, or weight. Both raw wool
and the finished yarn were sold by
weight. Other commodities, such
as cotton, were sold in the same
manner. The 1851 census for Upper
and Lower Canada notes that wool
was reported in pounds processed,
while woven fabric was cited in yards
produced. The manner in which the
raw materials were marketed appears
to have influenced the method for
marketing yarn.
Both British and metric mass measures
are based on a linear measurement.
The early British measure for mass
was based on a cubic handwidth. A
handwidth measures 3.96 in today’s
inch measurement. In this system,
the measure was the weight of the
amount of cool water that would fit
in a space of one handwidth wide,
by one handwidth long by one
handwidth high. The tankard was a
half measure, which was known as
the skale-weight. One hundred skaleweights
equaled a hundredweight.
Wool was sold at market by the
eighth- or half-hundredweight.
The metric measure for mass is also
based on a linear measurement, in
this case 10 centimeters. A litre is the
amount of water that fits in a space
10cm wide by 10cm long by 10cm
deep and it weighs one kilogram,
or 1000 grams. Coincidentally, 10cm
equals 3.937 inches, less than three
hundredths of an inch difference
from the dimension of the old
English measure!
About the time of the Industrial
Revolution, a system to measure
the fineness (or grist) of yarn was
introduced in England. This new
system, called the Bradford Count,
was based on the number of 560-
yard skeins of yarn that can be spun
from one pound of wool. The higher
the number, the finer (thinner) the
yarn: a yarn measuring 10s (s is the
abbreviation for the Bradford count
– presumably it represents skeins) is
thicker than a yarn measuring 30s: 30
skeins yields 16,800 yards per pound,
where 10 skeins only gives 5,600
yards per pound. By using length
and weight to determine thickness,
manufacturers could determine how
thick their finished cloth would be.
Despite this, yardage remained
unused in the realm of the knitter.
Even when published patterns began
to appear, yardage was overlooked
or omitted. (See Cynthia’s article about
Vintage Patterns in the Fall, 2010 issue of
A Needle Pulling Thread.)
In 1962, the International Organization
for Standardization (ISO) adopted the
Tex system as the ‘industry standard’
for measuring the thickness of threads
and yarns. Tex represents the number
of grams that 1,000 meters of yarn or
thread weighs. Thus, a yarn that has
200 meters per 100 grams would be
listed as 500 tex. With this system, the
higher a yarn’s tex number, the thicker
the yarn.
Nm is the metric answer to the
Bradford Count. It represents the
number of meters spun from a gram
of yarn. Knitters can use this system
to great advantage: by weighing out
one gram of yarn, then measuring
the length of it, the number of meters
per 100 grams or kilogram is a simple
matter of adding two or three zeros,
respectively. For example if one
gram of yarn is 4 meters long, 100
grams will be 400 meters long, and a
kilogram will have 4,000 meters. This
is useful when working with old yarns
that do not give yardages, or when
working with yarns such as handspun
or project leftovers that don’t have
any labels at all.
KNITmuch | issue 13
7

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8 KNITmuch | issue 13

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Light and feathery Odette has the
grace and elegance of a swan
Cindy O'Malley
Welcome to another exciting feature at KNITmuch,
where I’ll be knitting with Universal Yarn Odette.
Odette combines 61% superwash fine merino and
17% alpaca with 22% nylon for strength, creating
a chained yarn that’s light and lovely. This yarn is
perfect for sweaters and a multitude of accessories
with a light heather and feathery halo.
The name Odette is of French origin meaning
wealthy. You may also recognize the name as the
good or white swan in Swan Lake.
Odette is available in 10 different colors of which
I’ll be using 7 in this feature; Bordeaux, Rusted
Orange, Picholine, French Blue, Rose Villa, Winter
Wheat, and Gargoyle. The colors look intense when
coiled up in their skein, but in reality, each color is
very soft and muted. The intensity of each color
is only revealed in quantity. If you’re wondering
about Picholine, it’s an olive of French origin that is
primarily used as a cocktail olive, but also used for
making olive oil, which is an accurate description for
the color.
Each 1.75oz [50g] ball contains 241yds [220m],
which really speaks to the lightness of the fiber.
Chain construction means that the fibers are knitted
rather than spun, resembling a crochet chain. This
results in a puffy and airy strand that is filled in with
the feathery halo of the alpaca.
Rated as a Light, Odette is truly a chameleon when
it comes to gauge for projects. The recommended
gauge is 21-23 stitches over 4”[10cm] using a US
5 – 7 [3.75 – 4.5mm] knitting needle, and 18-20
stitches over 4”[10cm] using a US F-5[3.75 – 4.5mm]
crochet hook. Because of the open and airy chain
construction, it will puff out when knit at a more
open gauge, and compress beautifully when knit to
a very tight gauge.
Let’s take a close up look at an individual strand
of Odette. You can see the chain construction and
how the feathery halo of the alpaca fills in the gaps.
As with all blended fiber yarns, the most delicate
of the fibers dictates the laundry care, and Odette
is no exception. Hand wash and lay flat to dry will
keep your projects looking beautiful.
I have some interesting and diversified projects in
store for Odette!
A multi-colored sweater, (7 colors to be exact),
socks, (yes socks!) and a warm, funnel cowl are all
on the list.
Each of these projects will be knit at a different
gauge using different needles to show just how
much of a chameleon this yarn really is.
Odette is available in 10 different colors. L-R, Picholine, French Blue, Gargoyle,
Rusted Orange, Bordeaux, Rose Villa, and Winter Wheat are my color choices.
10 KNITmuch | issue 13
A close up look at an individual strand of Odette in Rusted Orange reveals the
openness of the chain construction filled in with the soft halo of the alpaca.

Various swatches disclose the
chameleon qualities of Odette yarn
I’m knitting some swatches, initially based on the
recommended gauge as discussed, but then playing
with various needle sizes to see how the yarn
reacts. My first project is a sweater where gauge
is extremely important. The recommended gauge
is 21-23 stitches over 4”[10cm] using a US 5 – 7
[3.75 – 4.5mm] knitting needle, and the sweater has
a gauge of 22sts and 26rows on US6[4.0mm] and
22sts and 23rows on US7[4.5mm] needles. Based
on that, I’ll start with the US 6 [4.0mm] and then use
the US 7 [4.5].
This yarn is extremely light and can get caught on
dry, rough hands, so make sure you use some hand
lotion. But I must say, it’s lovely to knit. I tend to use
very pointed needles. If my stitch isn’t true, it can
get caught in the links of the chain. Easily rectified,
but something to watch for, as the sooner you catch
it, the easier it is to correct.
1st Swatch – US 6 [4.0mm]
My first swatch yielded 22 sts and approximately 32
rows after blocking. I love the fabric it created, both
in drape and in color. The soft halo and heathered
tones of the Rusted Orange are beautiful. On to the
next.
2nd Swatch – US 7 [4.5mm]
The second swatch yielded 21 sts and 30 rows after
blocking. The drape is still lovely and I’m happy
with both swatches. Even though the row count is
different from that which is called for by the sweater
pattern, I think it will work out fine.
Odette swatches L US 6 [4.0mm] R US 7 [4.5mm] yielded 22sts and 32R and
21sts and 30R.
Since my stitch count was right on the money as per
the yarn recommendations, I didn’t make a 4” x 4”
swatch using the US 5 [3.75mm] needle but did use
it during my experimental swatches.
My first experimental swatch was to determine
what needle size I would use for socks. I made 3
mini swatches, all in succession beginning with a
3.0mm needles, which doesn’t seem to have a US
equivalent, then a US 3[3.25mm], and lastly, a US
4 [3.5mm]. I ribbed a few rows before the stocking
stitch using each needle size in turn.
3rd Swatch Results
3.0mm – 8 sts = 1”, 10 rows = 1”
US 3 [3.25mm] – 7 sts = 1”, 9 rows = 1”
US 4 [3.5mm] – 6.75 sts = 1”, 8 rows = 1”
Photos by Cindy O'Malley
KNITmuch | issue 13
11

2 swatches knit in succession with various needle sizes. L – 3.0, US 3 [3.25mm]
and US 4 [3.5mm] in rib and stocking stitch. R – US 5 [3.75mm], US 6 [4.0mm],
US 7 [4.5mm] and US 8 [5.0mm] in garter stitch an open mesh.
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I’m truly amazed at how well the yarn performed
when knit at a tight gauge. By knitting the samples
in succession, you can really see the difference
between the needle sizes. I was expecting to use
the US 3 or 4 as my needles for the socks, but after
this exercise, I’ll be using the 3.0mm.
I had originally planned on making a shawl that
had open mesh between sections of garter stitch.
I changed my mind at the last minute, but more
about that later. For my fourth swatch, I took the
same approach as the sock swatch, but this time
I used four different needle sizes beginning with
a US 5 [3.75mm] and worked my way up to a US
8 [5.0mm]. Again, by doing the test swatches in
succession, you can really see the impact of the
different sized needles. The following results are
approximates, mainly due to the springiness of the
yarn on the open mesh work.
4th Swatch Results
US 5 [3.75mm] 22 sts = 4” garter, 11 sts = 2” mesh
US 6 [4.0mm] 22 sts = 4” garter, 11 sts = 2” mesh
US 7 [4.5mm] 20 sts = 4” garter, 10 sts = 2” mesh
US 8 [5mm] 19 sts = 4” garter, 9 sts = 2” mesh
This is when I started calling Odette a chameleon
when it comes to gauge. It looks great when
knit with the various needle sizes. Depending on
the project, Odette seems to adapt nicely to its
environment; hence chameleon.
I quite enjoyed knitting these swatches, which isn’t
something you hear a knitter say very often.
12 KNITmuch | issue 13

The challenge of combining
7 different colors
on a knitted sweater
I’m knitting the Olympia Pullover which is a
stranded sweater that calls for seven different colors.
When I first saw this free sweater pattern designed
by Melissa Leapman, who is one of my favorite
designers, I just had to make it. You can download
the free Olympia Pullover pattern.
Even though this pattern was designed for a
different yarn, the gauge of 22sts over 4” [10cm]
was the same that I was able to achieve yesterday
with Odette. The row gauge is quite different, but
for the most part, that should be okay since most
instructions say to work to x” before shaping. Where
I will likely need adjustments is in the sleeve cap as
row gauge may come into play.
This project presented a few challenges; the first
being the colors. When I selected the colors
from online samples, I had a plan in mind. When
I received the yarn, the colors presented very
differently. For example, Rose Villa looked to be
very “peachy”, but in reality, it’s an off-white with
peach undertones. It’s beautiful but changed my
thinking when I started putting colors together.
I have to admit, that the color sequence was my
biggest challenge and caused the most angst. I
second-guessed myself several times. If you recall
in the first chapter of this feature when I mentioned
that the color intensity changed when the
skein was unraveled, I decided to do the same. I
unraveled the seven colors and hung them up on
pegs outside in the natural light. This helped me to
finally decide on the sequence I would use, which
ended up being very close to my original thoughts.
Notice the 3rd color from the left; that’s Rose Villa in
natural light.
Olympia Pullover is a free pattern designed by
Melissa Leapman.
Odette yarn in Rosa Villa colorway,
photo sample of online color
KNITmuch | issue 13
13

Odette color choices L-R Winter Wheat, Bordeaux, Rose Villa, Rusted Orange,
Gargoyle, French Blue, Picholine are truly revealed in natural light.
Now that I finally decided on my color sequence,
I started in detail with the pattern only to notice
that there was some key information missing. The
gauge stated 22sts x 26 rows = 4” in St st using
smaller needles, however, it only called for US
7[4.5mm] needles. I made an assumption that the
smaller needle meant US 6[4.0mm] but wanted
confirmation. I sent a note to Melissa Leapman
via Ravelry and she responded within minutes to
confirm my assumption. I was very impressed that
she responded so quickly. I’ve written to designers
previously and had both good and not so good
results. Some never get back to you while some
others have sent a stock reply that didn’t answer
my question. Thank you, Melissa for backing
your designs. Take note however, the pattern link
provided above does not have the typo corrected.
My second challenge was the sizing. The Medium
finished measurement was 37 ½”, and the Large
41 ¾”. Normally, I would make a Medium, but I
wanted a little more ease than what the Medium
offered, however, the Large had too much ease for
my liking. If this was a fairly plain sweater, I would
add a few stitches when casting on to give the
finished measurement that I wanted, however, due
to the colorwork involved, I had no desire to try
and re-design it. The difference in sizes is 12sts, so
I decided to knit the Large using a smaller needle
making a tighter gauge, which should result in a
finished measurement around 39”. Perfect.
Off I go knitting the back of the sweater with
my choice of colors and needle size. Everything
is working out fine until I come to the armhole
shaping. It’s a little confusing in how it describes
to bind off x sts on each side. That line is in
the pattern twice, so I wasn’t sure if that was a
typo or if it meant to do it twice. Based on the
stitch count, I assumed twice but again, wanted
confirmation as the sleeves only asked for the bind
off once. Normally, I would expect them to be the
same. Melissa responded to my query right away
confirming that it should be done twice on the body.
Now I’m into the colorwork section, which is a lot
of fun to do. When it came time for the larger motif,
I counted in the number of decreases to mark my
starting point. Only I didn’t really mark it; I just put
a ruler marking the spot, and proceeded to knit.
Well, my ruler shifted on me and when I stopped to
admire my work a few rows in, I was dismayed. No
motif, just a mess. Back I went, recounted where I
should be starting and marked it with a pen. Much
better results. I’m not a colorwork specialist, but
have knitting friends that do intricate colorwork on
a regular basis. During one of our many Zoom calls,
I presented my approach to one of these experts
and she confirmed that I was doing the right thing.
It pays to ask an expert. It also pays to admire your
work often so that mistakes are caught early.
The colorwork section turned out beautifully. I
wasn’t sure if the muted colors would show up very
well, but they do and I’m pleased.
I’ve stated before that I prefer doing top down
sweaters as it’s much easier to size it appropriately,
especially in the sleeve length. You try it on and
stop knitting when it’s the desired length. Not so
with bottom up and knit in pieces. The pattern
calls for the sleeve being 18 ½” for all sizes before
shaping the sleeve cap. Well, I don’t believe
everyone has the same arm length so I measured
another sweater of mine and based it on that.
Glad I did. I have long arms for my height, but not
that long.
14 KNITmuch | issue 13

As mentioned earlier, I anticipated making
adjustments to the sleeve caps due to the difference
in row gauge. I originally calculated to decrease
every other row instead of every row. It turns out
that I miscalculated a wee bit and ended up with
sleeve caps that were too big for the armhole
opening of the body. I was also having a difficult
time matching up the colorwork when seaming
due to the difference in the bind off twice in the
body and once on the sleeves. I ended up taking
the caps back to the start of the decreases, binding
off twice to be the same as the body, and switched
to decreasing every row when I got down to 37 sts.
It worked. The pattern lined up and the sleeve cap
was the right size for the armhole.
Now for the finishing. My area is still in lockdown,
which means I can’t go to a store to select the right
zipper for the front opening. I’m very particular
about matching the zipper color to my work, so
online shopping was not an option. I decided to
do a slip stitch edge around the opening with the
intent to finish it off later. As it turns out, I like it the
way it is, so I may not do the zipper after all.
The Olympia Pullover is complete and I love the
heathered colors together. It’s very light and
comfortable to wear. It ended up being about 38¾”,
just shy of the original plan to end up with 39”.
So I’m calling this a success. There is a downside
to using seven colors; weaving in all the ends! I
foresee doing those during Zoom calls over the
next few days.
I hope you picked up a few tips in this feature. Next,
I take Odette in a totally different direction. I’ll be
making a pair of socks to match my new sweater,
which will illustrate the chameleon qualities of this
lovely, soft yarn.
The colorwork section of the Olympia Pullover with the 7 colors of Odette.
My completed Olympia Pullover using 7 different colors of Odette.
KNITmuch | issue 13
15

Odette in color Bordeaux is my choice for making
a pair of socks.
The strength and
beauty of Odette make
a perfect pair of socks
I love making toe up socks with
a short row heel for myself and
some of the other women in
the family. For the men, I usually
stick with top down and gusset
heel to leave them ample room
for their larger feet. During the
swatching exercise, I used a
3.0mm needle and, based on the
gauge, thought it would work for
socks. Truth be told, once the toe
was complete, I tried it on and
decided that it was too loose. So
I ripped it out and started again
with a US 2 [2.75mm] and was
much happier with the results.
Socks need to be knit at a very
tight gauge for wearability and I
want them to last. By the way, I’m
still wearing the first pair of socks
I made well over 20 years ago.
The toes are getting a little thin,
but still have some of leftover
yarn to re-knit them. I may just
do that for nostalgic reasons. It
goes to show how long hand knit
socks can last.
My version of toe up socks is a
little different than most patterns.
I start with Judy’s Magic Cast
On, like many toe up patterns
do, but the difference for me is
in the number of starting stitches
and the increase rounds. Most
sock patterns, whether they be
toe up or top down, typically
do the toe section by increasing
(or decreasing if top down) 4
16 KNITmuch | issue 13
stitches (2 on the bottom and 2
on the top) every other round.
I start with 6 stitches on each
needle and use 6 increases
every 3rd round. The number of
rounds ends up the same, but I
prefer this method as it makes a
rounder toe.
Judy’s Magic Cast On starting with 6 stitches on each
needle and increasing 6 stitches every 3rd round
Judy’s Magic Cast On for Toe
Up socks was invented by Judy
Becker. It’s brilliant and there are
tutorials available to demonstrate
the technique for both magic
loop and double pointed needles
(dpns). But like most knitting
techniques, others try it and
come up with variations that
make it even better. If you follow
Judy’s original instructions, you
have twisted stitches on one
needle. It’s easily rectified by
knitting into the back of these
stitches to right them, which
I’ve done for years. Then I came
across some YouTube videos
where people had perfected
the technique by loading each
needle from left to right. The
result; no twisted stitches. I’ve
since retrained myself to load
my needles left to right instead
of inside out. Like I said, it’s not a
big deal, but it’s a great example
of how this craft evolves.
How long should you make each
foot? The sock should stretch
over your foot, but the amount
of stretch depends upon how
you knit. If knit very tightly, it
won’t stretch as much as when
knit a little looser, or loose (don’t
want loose). Too much stretch
will affect the wearability as will
when knit too loose. I aim for ¾”
– 1” shorter than the actual foot
length. If you’re making socks
for yourself or someone you
have access to, you can measure
the length of the foot. If you’re
making socks for someone else
and ask “how long is your foot?”,
they’ll respond by saying they
wear a size 7.5 and 8 in boots.
Not very helpful. I use a website
(Softmoc) that has a conversion
chart for shoe sizes to inches
and centimeters for all ages and
genders. Shoe manufacturers
often vary in sizes, so the chart
serves as a guideline only to the
length of each recipient’s foot.
Socks don’t need to fit exactly
like a pair of comfortable shoes;
socks should be smaller so they
fit snugly on the person’s foot.

By referencing this chart, I have
a better feel for the targeted
finished length of the foot – I aim
for 1”, and no less than ¾” smaller
than the actual foot length.
The other consideration for
toe up socks is the cast off
technique. A conventional cast
off tends to be restrictive when
putting the sock on or off. The
solution is to use a stretchy cast
off method. I like to use Jeny’s
Surprising Stretchy Cast Off of
which there are many YouTube
videos available, however, I’ve
described the technique in the
pattern instructions. You’ll notice
in the instructions to do a Yarn
Round Needle (YRN) instead of
a regular Yarn Over (YO) for the
knit stitches. A regular YO tends
to make the cast off edge flair
out, while the YRN doesn’t.
Another technique of note is
picking up the wraps on the
short row heel when doing
the purl stitches. I use my right
needle to pick up the wraps
from the right side of the work
and place it on the left needle
in front of the stitch. When you
purl them together, the wrap
disappears on the right side. If
the wrap(s) is behind the stitch
on the left needle, it will be
visible when purled together with
the stitch.
This pattern is written for magic
loop. I gave up on dpn’s many
years ago after losing several
needles through the boards of
my back deck. Since switching
to magic loop, I’ve never looked
back. I call this pattern the Spiral
Toes Waffle Socks. The spiral toes
are based on my method for toe
increases, but the waffle stitch is
a great TV knitting technique for
socks, and looks spectacular with
the heathered, feathery look of
Odette.
For the Spiral Toes Waffle
Socks, you will need:
materials
yarn
• 2 skeins of Odette in color
Bordeaux
needles
• US 2 [2.75mm] circular needle
in 32” for magic loop, or
double pointed needles
notions
• tapestry needle to sew in ends
gauge
32sts x 40 rows = 4”[10cm]
Sized to fit average woman’s foot,
easily adapted to make smaller or
larger by a multiple of 4 stitches.
abbreviations
K: knit
M1: make 1 st
P: purl
rem: remaining
st(s): stitch(es)
wandt: wrap and turn
YOP: yarn over purlwise
YRN: yarn round needle
Waffle Stitch Pattern
Rounds 1 and 2: *P2, K2; repeat
from * to end of round
Round 3 and 4: Knit
Spiral Toes Waffle Socks
Toe Instructions
Using Judy’s Magic Cast on, cast
on 12 sts (6 on each needle),
leaving a lengthy tail.
Round 1: Hold tail to secure the
first stitch, knit 1 round.
Round 2: Holding both working
and tail yarn, knit1 round
(12 sts on each needle).
Round 3: With the working yarn
only, knit each individual
stitch (12 sts on each
needle).
Round 4: *K4, M1, repeat from
* to end of round (6 sts
increased – 3 on each
needle).
Rounds 5 and 6: Knit.
Repeat Rounds 4 – 6 increasing
1 additional Knit stitch before
the M1 (eg, K5, K6, K7, etc.) until
there are 30 sts on each needle
(or desired number).
Foot Instructions
Rounds 1 and 2: *P2, K2; repeat
from * across the top
of the foot, and knit all
stitches on the sole of the
foot.
Rounds 3 and 4: Knit.
Repeat these 4 rounds until foot
measures 2” less than desired
length from the tip of the toe,
ending with a Row 2 on the top
of the foot, and ready to start
the heel.
Waffle stitch pattern looks spectacular with
Odette’s heathered and feathery appearance.
KNITmuch | issue 13
17

Spiral Toes Waffle Socks made with Odette Bordeaux
Short Row Heel Instructions
Working with heel stitches only, proceed with short
rows as follows:
Row 1: Knit across heel till 1 st rem, wandt.
Row 2: Purl across heel till 1 st rem, wandt.
Row 3: Knit across till 1 st before wrap, wandt.
Row 4: Purl across till 1 st before wrap, wandt.
Continue working in this fashion until 10 sts have been
wrapped on either side of the center 10 heel sts.
Row 21: Knit across to 1st wrapped st, pick up wrap and
knit together with the st, wandt the next st.
Row 22: Purl across to 1st wrapped st, pick up wrap
and purl together with the st, wandt the next st.
Row 23: Knit across to next wrapped st, pick up both
wraps and knit together with the st, wandt.
Row 24: Purl across to next wrapped st, pick up both
wraps and purl together with the st, wandt.
Continue working in this fashion until all wraps have
been picked up and worked on the left side of the heel.
There should still be 1 wrapped stitch on the right side
that has not been worked.
Pattern across top of foot stitches.
The 1st stitch on the heel has 2 wraps. Pick
up both wraps and knit together with the
st. Continue to knit across the heel sts to
complete the round.
Work 1 more round of pattern across the
top of the foot, and knit across the heel sts.
Leg Instructions
Proceed in pattern around all stitches until
desired length ending with a Round 4.
Cuff: *K1,P1; repeat till end of round and
desired length
Jeny’s Surprising Stretch Cast Off
K1, YOP, P1; Pull both K and YOP over P st;
1 st on right needle
*YRN, K1; Pull both st and YRN over K st
YOP, P1; Pull both st and YOP over P st
Repeat from * until all stitches have been
worked
finishing
Weave in toe and cuff ends.
Who would have thought that a yarn rated
as Light could be knit to a fingering weight
gauge and look so lovely? Odette truly
is a chameleon when it comes to gauge.
The heathered appearance of the yarn is
perfect for the waffle stitch pattern. They
are cushy, soft and warm. I’ll be wearing
them regularly on my winter walks, and
take care when laundering to ensure that I
have them for years to come.
18 KNITmuch | issue 13

Leftover yarn from the sweater
makes a warm and cushy cowl
I had originally planned on using
Odette to make a popular free
shawl pattern available from
Ravelry, which is why I made
swatches of the mesh pattern.
After doing the color work on the
Olympia Pullover, I changed my
mind and decided to do some
more color work. I wear cowls a
lot during the winter and have
to give them up for laundering
now and then. As such, I needed
another one.
Leftover Odette after making the Olympia Pullover
This cowl is knit from the bottom
up, and decreases along the way
to make it narrower at the top. I
decided to start with Bordeaux
as there was more yarn left over
from both the sweater and the
sock projects than the other
colors. Gauge is not as important
for this project, but it will affect
the overall size. I decided to use
a US 6 [4.0mm] needle since
that’s what I’d used on the color
work section of the sweater and
was happy with the result.
How much of each color is
needed for this project is difficult
to say. I can tell you that I still had
left over yarn after completing
the cowl, just not as much. The
total weight of the cowl is 1.75oz
or 50 grams, which implies that it
used 241yds [220m] in total.
It’s best to use a stretchy cast on
and off so it can easily be pulled
over your head. The stretchy cast
on method I use most often is a
variation of the Long Tail cast on.
The difference is that I alternate
the position of the tail yarn
over my thumb for knit vs. purl
stitches. I use this method when
casting on stitches for top down
socks and it provides ample
stretch when putting them on or
off. For the cast off, I’ve included
instructions for Jeny’s Surprisingly
Stretchy Bind Off. It’s become a
favorite of mine.
For this project, I used:
finished measurements 22”
bottom circumference, 12”h, 14”
top circumference
materials
yarn
• 4 Leftover colors of Odette in
Bordeaux (A), Winter Wheat
(B), Rusted Orange (C), and
Rose Villa (D)
needles
• US 6 [4.0 mm] circular knitting
needles, 16” or 32” for Magic
Loop, or dpn’s
notions
• tapestry needle to sew in ends
abbreviations
BOR: beginning of round
Dec:decreased
K:knit
K2tog: knit two stitches together
P:purl
PM:place marker
St(s):stitch or stitches
YOP: yarn over purlwise
YRN: yarn round needle
Funnel Shaped Cowl
With Color A, loosely cast on 136
sts, PM to denote BOR
Work 6 rounds in 2×2 ribbing (K2,
P2)
The Pattern
Knit 8 rounds.
Knit 8 rounds with colors A and B
as follows: *K2 A, K2 B, repeat to
end of round, drop A
With B, Knit 4 rounds.
Decrease round: *K15, K2tog,
repeat from * to end of round (8
sts dec 128sts)
Knit 3 more rounds.
Knit 8 rounds with colors B and C
as follows: *K2 B, K2 C, repeat to
end of round, drop B
With C, Knit 4 rounds.
Decrease round: *K14, K2tog,
repeat from * to end of round (8
sts dec 120sts)
Knit 3 more rounds.
Knit 8 rounds with colors C and D
as follows: *K2 C, K2 D, repeat to
end of round, drop C
KNITmuch | issue 13
19

With C, Knit 1 round.
Decrease round: *K13, K2tog,
repeat from * to end of round (8
sts dec 112sts)
Knit 4 more rounds.
Decrease round: *K26, K2tog,
repeat from * to end of round (4
sts dec 108 sts)
Knit 1 round.
Knit 8 rounds with colors D and A
as follows: *K2 D, K2 A, repeat to
end of round, drop D
With A, knit 1 round.
Decrease round: *K25, K2tog,
repeat from * to end of round (4
sts dec 104 sts)
With A, work 10 rounds of 2×2
ribbing (K2, P2).
Cast off using Jeny’s Surprising
Stretchy Cast Off.
Weave in ends.
Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy
Bind Off
K1, YRN, K1; Pull both st and YRN
over K st
YOP, P1; Pull both st and YOP
over P st (twice)
*YRN, K1; Pull both st and YRN
over K st (twice)
YOP, P1; Pull both st and YOP
over P st (twice)
Repeat from * until all stitches
have been worked.
I love the way the 4 colors work
together on this cowl. When
worn around the neck, it will
scrunch up but all 4 colors can
still be seen. I’m very pleased
with the end result and happy
that I could make good use of
the leftover yarn.
Knitting with Odette has been
an extremely pleasant and very
surprising experience. The way
this yarn adapts to different
gauges using various needle
sizes, what I refer to as the
chameleon factor, was very
surprising indeed. But also, the
yardage a single 1.75oz [50g]
skein yields. The way the yarn
puffs up when knit at a looser
gauge produces a light fabric
with a lovely drape. Originally,
I thought that the muted,
heathery colors of Odette may
not do the Olympia Pullover
justice, but I was wrong. They
are beautiful together.
Funnel Shaped Cowl made with left over Odette
yarn from the Olympia Pullover.
I hope this feature has
encouraged you to try new
or challenging projects. There
are so many techniques, stitch
patterns, and color work designs
available to us knitters. If you
haven’t tried it before, try it now.
There’s a wealth of knowledge
available at your fingertips; you
can call a friend, ask the designer,
reference an online tutorial, or
Google it to find a world of
YouTube videos to show you how.
Sounds a little like “Who Wants to
be a Millionaire”, doesn’t it?
I’ve really enjoyed working with
Universal Yarn Odette. Look for
me on Ravelry (castalot) to see
other projects I intend to make
with this yarn.
Until then, stay safe, be healthy,
and carry on knitting!
Ta-da!! The awesome ensemble featuring the
Olympia Pullover, Spiral Toes Waffle Socks, and
Leftover Funnel Cowl all knit with Odette.
Cindy O'Malley
cindooknits.blogspot.com
20 KNITmuch | issue 13

don't miss these FREE
projects and tutorials online!
KNITmuch
...to K, is to
READ NOW
READ NOW
Dressing up
the table for
the Tea Party
with
UY Uptown
Baby Sport
READ NOW
Hue +
Me will
always knit
up great
friendship
hats
Knitting a
Mandala Baby DK
sweater from a
schematic
and
there's
so
much
more!
KNITmuch | issue 13
21

Textured washcloth
in Cotton Supreme
Charles Voth
Soft and sweet, Cotton Supreme is perfect for a facecloth.
Here at KNITmuch.com we
love to introduce you to new
yarns, but sometimes, it’s great
to rekindle our love for some
of the classics. We’ll look at the
harmony between some great
yarns and some completely new
textured stitches.
A few years ago, I knit a little
toddler sweater with Universal
Yarn Cotton Supreme, and
Cindy O’Malley knit a Tee with
the Waves version of this soft
cotton yarn, but in this feature, I
want to share a simple textured
knit pattern using Universal
Yarn Cotton Supreme to make
facecloths or even baby blankets.
This facecloth is a 2×2 ribbing with ridges in Cotton Supreme.
22 KNITmuch | issue 13
Photos by Charles Voth

Please consult the list of
abbreviations below if a term is
new to you.
Cast on 36 sts or a multiple of 4
stitches.
Row 1 (WS): Purl across.
Row 2: With yarn in back, sl1
purlwise, wyib, sl1 knitwise,
k2, [k2, p2] across to last 4
sts, k4.
Row 3: With yarn in front, sl1
purlwise, wyif, sl1 knitwise,
k2, [k2, p2] across.
Row 4: Wyib, sl1 pwise, wyib, sl1
kwise, k2, [wyif, sl 2 pwise,
p2] across to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 5: Wyif, sl1 pwise, wyif,
sl1kwise, k2, [k2, wyib, sl 2
pwise] across to last 4 sts,
k2, p2.
Row 6: Wyib, sl1 pwise, wyib, sl1
kwise, k2, [p2, k2] across to
last 4 sts, k4.
Row 7: Wyif, sl1 pwise, wyif,
sl1kwise, k2, [p2, k2] across
to last 4 sts, k2, p2.
Row 8: Rep Row 6.
Row 9: Rep Row 7.
Row 10: Wyib, sl1 pwise, wyib,
slip 1 kwise, k2, [p2, wyif, sl2
pwise] across to last 4 sts,
k4.
Row 11: Wyif, sl1 pwise, wyif,
sl1kwise, k2, [wyib, sl2
pwise, k2] across to last 4
sts, k2, p2.
Row 12: Rep Row 2.
Row 13: Rep Row 3.
Rep Rows 2 to 13 until work is
square, ending with a RS row.
Last Row: Purl.
Bind off.
Abbreviations
[ ]: repeat between square brackets as indicated
K: knit
Kwise: knitwise
P: purl
Pwise: purlwise
Rep: repeat(s/ed/ing)
Sl: slip
St(s): stitch(es)
Wyib: with yarn in back
Wyif: with yarn in front
Universal Yarn Cotton Supreme is so soft and comes in
several beautiful colors for all your knitting pleasures.
This is the wrong side of the facecloth.
The DK-weight cotton is perfect for next-to-the-skin use.
Learn how to knit crisscrossed ribbing in a new yarn. It’ll look completely
different than this Cotton Supreme version.
KNITmuch | issue 13
23

Oodles of noodles with crisscrossed
ribbing in Bella Chenille yarn
Let's look at Universal Yarn Bella
Chenille and the crisscrossed
ribbing stitch pattern. Bella
Chenille is a great yarn for
dramatic texture, as we saw a few
years ago when I taught you how
to knit bobbles without turning
the work, and the crisscross effect
doesn’t disappoint.
Please consult the abbreviations
below if need be.
The Crisscrossed ribbing
stitch pattern
Cast on a multiple of 4 stitches,
plus 5 more.
Knit 4 rows garter stitch.
Row 1: K2, [k1tbl, ktrwp1, k1,
ktrwp1] across to last 3 sts,
k1tbl, k2.
Row 2: P2, [p1tbl, wyif sl 1
dropping extra wraps, p1,
wyif sl 1 dropping extra
wraps] across to last 3 sts,
p1tbl, p2.
Row 3: K2, [k1tbl, sl 1, (k1, yo, k1)
all in next st, psso 3 sts just
made, sl 1] across to last 3
sts, k1tbl, k2.
Row 4: P2, [p1tbl, wyif, sl 1, p1, k1,
p1, psso 3 sts just made]
across to last 3 sts, p1tbl, p2.
Rep Rows 1 to 4 for pattern to
desired length.
Knit 4 rows garter stitch.
Bind off.
Oodles of noodles? Nope! It’s crisscrossed strands
of Bella Chenille yarn.
Bella Chenille is one of the best yarns around
for baby blankets, and the crisscrossed ribbing
makes it even more fun.
Abbreviations
(k1, yo, k1): these stitches are all
worked into one stitch
K: Knit
K1tbl: knit 1 through back loop
Ktrwp1: knit 1 but wrap needle 3
times before lifting through stitch.
P1tbl: purl 1 through back loop
Psso: pass slipped stitch over
indicated number of stitches
Wyif: with yarn in front
Yo: yarn over
In the following video, I show you
how to work all the rows of this
crisscrossed ribbing pattern. I
used Cotton Supreme to film the
video because I had already cast
off the Bella Chenille swatch.
I hope you enjoy trying a
complete blanket out of
Universal Yarn Bella Chenille.
Not only does Bella Chenille work up into a soft blanket, it’s also super quick to knit.
24 KNITmuch | issue 13

If you like raised textures, these leaning bud stitches are fun to make.
Not knit nupps nor knots:
buds are the alternative stitch!
In this feature we revisit good yarn, friends, and look
at new textures in knitting, I would be remiss in not
including the Deluxe Superwash line. More than a
couple of years ago (this yarn does hold up as a
classic), I designed with the Deluxe Worsted Tweed
line. Much more recently I designed a modular
blanket and a sweater with the Deluxe Stripes line.
And only a couple of years ago, Cynthia MacDougall
highlighted many of the features of Deluxe DK and
Worsted solids. I want to share a nifty work-around
for creating nupps, even though a purist would say
“not even close!” Some might call these leaning bud
stitches bobbles, but they’re not quite raised enough
for that. Come along and let’s explore!
Teal is my all-time favorite color. I’m so lucky I was
able to knit this swatch with the Azure Heather color
of Deluxe DK Superwash. Without further ado, let’s
get right to the Leaning Bud Stitch itself, and then
we’ll incorporate it into the whole swatch, blanket,
sweater…whatever you wish to do. The Leaning Bud
stitch is worked over 3 rows and 3 stitches. The first
row sets up some elongated stitches, the 2nd row
creates the bud, and the 3rd row cinches it off and
stabilizes it in the surrounding stitches and rows.
KNITmuch | issue 13
25

The Leaning Bud stitches look different from every angle.
Lb-st (Leaning Bud stitch):
Slip next 3 sts of LH dropping
extra wraps and return to LH
needle, insert RH needle under
horizontal bar between 3rd and
4th sts on LH needle and knit up
a loop, drawing it across all three
stitches on LH needle and about
a cm further, wrap yarn around
RH needle clockwise, *Insert RH
needle between 3rd and 4th sts
(not below horizontal bar again)
on LH needle and knit up a
loop, drawing it across all three
stitches*, wrap yarn around RH
needle clockwise, rep btwn * *
(5 loops on RH needle), k3tog
through back loops, (6 sts made
from 3).
Maybe you would prefer to watch
how to do this from a video.
Abbreviations
K: Knit
K4tog-tbl: Knit 4 stitches
together through their back
loops
LH: Left hand
P: Purl
Pdbl (purl with double wrap):
Insert RH needle purlwise in next
st, wrap needle twice and purl
drawing both loops through.
Rep: Repeat(s/ed/ing)
RH: Right hand
St(s): Stitch(es)
[ ]: Repeat instructions between
square brackets as indicated
Leaning Bud Stitch
Cast on a multiple of 4 stitches,
plus 3.
Work 2 rows stockinette stitch.
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: P3, [pdbl3, p1] across to
last 4 sts, p4.
Row 3: K5, [lb-st, k1] across to
last 2 sts, k2.
Row 4: P3, [p first 2 sts from lb-st,
k4tog-tbl, p1] across to last
4 sts, p4.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 6: P5, [pdbl3, p1] across to
last 2 sts, p2.
Row 7: K3, [lb-st, k1] across to
last 4 sts, k4.
Row 8: P5, [p first 2 sts from lb-st,
k4tog-tbl, p1] across to last
2 sts, p2.
Rep Rows 1 – 8 for pattern.
I hope you try this stitch in
your designs! Please share any
pictures with us!
The Leaning Bud stitch from the side
26 KNITmuch | issue 13

Taking Bamboo
Pop yarn for a
“bumpy” ride
Now let's knit the Bump Stitch with Bamboo Pop by
Universal Yarn. I wrote a series of KNITmuch blog
posts about good textures and projects to make
with Bamboo Pop, and Michelle Nussey wrote
about the antimicrobial and hypoallergenic qualities
of Bamboo Pop and shared some lovely stitch
patterns as well. This truly is one of our favorite
yarns at KNITmuch.
The Bump Stitch is a less conventional way to
make ribbing be more about columns of texture
than elasticity. If you have a project that needs a
decorative edge without the gather factor, this
Bump Stitch ribbing will be the right application.
BTW, how do you like my Knitter’s Pride Zing
needles?! They’re so smooth to knit with and they
come in Zing interchangeable circular needles and
Zing double pointed needles too!
Abbreviations
Bump-st: Knit through back loop of next st but
leave on LH needle, wrap yarn around RH needle
clockwise, bringing yarn from back over RH needle
and return to back between two needle tips, knit
same st together with next stitch through back loops.
K: Knit
K1dbl (knit 1 double): Insert RH needle in next st,
wrap yarn around needle twice and knit up both
loops, slipping st of LH needle.
P: Purl
Prw1 (reverse wrap purl): Insert RH needle as if
to purl wrap yarn clockwise around RH needle tip,
finish purl as usual.
Rep: Repeat(s/ed/ing)
Sl: Slip
Sts: Stitch(es)
Wyib: with yarn in back
Wyif: with yarn in front
The name says it all. Textures truly pop with Bamboo Pop yarn.
Pattern Instructions
Cast on a multiple of 5, plus 2.
Row 1: Wyib, sl 1, k1, p1, k1dbl, p1, bump-st, [p1,
k1dbl, p1, bump-st] across to last 5 sts, p1,
k1dbl, p1, k2.
Row 2: Wyif, sl 1, p1, [k1, wyif sl 1, k1, prw1, k2tog-tbl]
across to last 5 sts, k1, wyif, sl 1, k1, p2.
Repeat 2 rows for pattern.
Let’s look at a video for some of the more intricate
tips on working this stitch easily.
Universal Yarn Bamboo Pop showcases this ribbing
pattern beautifully without compromising its stitch
definition!
We have one more textured stitch pattern to
introduce you to so keep reading!
The wrong side of this stitch pattern has its own share of bumps and twists.
The channels created in this ribbing with Bamboo Pop yarn are so appealing
to the eye.
KNITmuch | issue 13
27

Feathery soft knitting with Penna
Cindy O'Malley
Penna is available in 16 different colors. Rose Kiss,
Raspberry Tart, Mulberry, and Bordeaux are my
color choices for these projects.
Welcome! I’ll be knitting with Universal Yarn Penna.
Spun in Italy, Penna is a luxurious lace-weight blend
of 50% baby suri alpaca, 28% extra-fine merino,
and 22% nylon. It features a gorgeous halo that
adds an ethereal quality to any project. On its own,
Penna is best suited for garments and accessories
with a loose gauge. When held with another yarn,
the possibilities are endless.
Penna is available in 16 different colors of which I’ll
be using 4 in this feature: Rose Kiss, Raspberry Tart,
Mulberry, and Bordeaux.
Each .89 [25g] ball contains 186yds [170m]. This
really speaks to the lightness of the fiber, and I think
you’ll be surprised at how far a single ball goes in a
knitted project.
Penna is rated as a lace weight, meaning that it knits
at a recommended gauge of 22 – 24 sts and 36 –
38 rows over 4” [10cm] using a US Size 2 – 3 [2.75 –
3.25mm] knitting needle, or 22 – 24 sc and 24 – 26
rows with a US B/1 – D/3 [2.25 – 3.25mm] crochet
hook. When a fiber is this light with such a beautiful
halo, it begs to be knit at a very open gauge, which
means I won’t be paying much attention to the
recommended gauge in this feature. Instead, I’ll be
knitting at a very loose and airy gauge using much
larger needles.
As with all blended fiber yarns, the most delicate of
the fibers dictates the laundry care, and Penna is no
exception. Hand wash and lay flat to dry will keep
your projects looking beautiful.
28 KNITmuch | issue 13
A close up look at the individual strands reveals
the feathery appearance and halo of Penna.
The Suri (Photo of Hadstock NZ Cracka taken
by Ann Weir) – The Huacaya (Photo of Nevalea
Helen taken by Amanda Bethune)
A close view of the yarn exudes the feathery halo
– you can actually see how soft it is. Penna means
pen, quill, feather or plume; of which the latter two
perfectly describes this yarn.
You may be wondering what the difference is
between Alpaca and Suri Alpaca. According to
Moonacre Alpacas NZ . . .
“There are two types of alpacas: The “suri”, has no
crimp so the individual fibers wrap around each
other to form lustrous pencil locks that hang down
from the body, parting at the spine. They almost
look like dread locks. The fleece of the other type
of alpaca is called the “huacaya”, which has fleece
with waviness, “crimp”, that gives it a fluffy, Teddy
Bear-like appearance. You can see the difference
between the two in the picture below.”
We’ve all fallen in love with the Huacaya or Teddy
Bear Alpaca that we get to meet at fairs, but I can’t
say that I’ve ever seen a Suri Alpaca; something to
look forward to down the road at a fleece festival
perhaps.
I have some great, yet simple projects in store for
Penna. A tri-colored cowl, beret, and luxurious
stole are on the list. Even though it’s lace weight,
these are all projects that you can knit in a relatively
short time, so you may be able to get another gift
completed before Christmas.
Photos by Cindy O'Malley

Knitting swatches in keeping with an
open and airy look
I’m knitting some swatches, not based on the
recommended gauge as discussed, but using larger
needles to maintain an open and airy look to the
fabric. One of the projects I selected for this feature
is a cowl designed for this yarn using a needle size
of US 8 [5mm]. So that’s where I’ll begin.
This yarn is extremely light and feathery. Make
sure you use some hand lotion before knitting
with Penna. I discovered that it would get caught
on my dry, rough hands when knitting. I didn’t
realize they were that dry, but after a little hand
lotion, everything went smoothly, both literally, and
figuratively speaking.
Because my first project is a cowl, gauge isn’t really
that important. I just wanted to see what the fabric
would look like before I started knitting the finished
item. The recommended gauge for the cowl is 16
sts x 26 rows in seed stitch using a US 8 [5mm]
needle. My swatch measured in at the same. The
halo of the yarn fills in the loose stitches very nicely
creating a lovely texture and muted stitch definition.
I had plans to make a shawl with a lacy motif,
but after seeing how the halo muted the stitch
definition of the first swatch, I had some concerns
that it may not do the yarn, nor the pattern justice.
The pattern I had originally selected called for a
US 6 [4mm] needle with a recommended gauge
of 16 sts x 20 rows over 4” [10cm] in a lace pattern
using a lace weight yarn. I decided to use the same
needle size to see what I’d get and how it looked.
The resulting fabric was pretty, but the lace pattern
was not that desirable because of the muted
stitch definition. I also found it hard to read my
knitting to know what to do on each row. The
gauge I achieved is very difficult to ascertain. It’s
approximately 28 sts x 26 rows in the pattern I used,
but because the fabric is so open, I can make it
whatever gauge I want. As I mentioned previously,
gauge isn’t that important for a shawl, but good
to know for future reference. The yarn is lovely,
and the pattern is lovely, but they just don’t work
together. I need to rethink my shawl plans, but that’s
for another day.
As mentioned, when Penna is held together with
another yarn, the possibilities are endless. For
one of my projects, I intend to make a beret that
combines Wool Pop with Penna! For Wool Pop, I
discovered that using a US 6 [4mm] needle created
a lovely fabric with a gauge of 22 sts x 30 rows. For
my beret, I’d like the fabric to be denser than that
for a sweater, so I’ll use the US 6 [4mm] needle
combined with Penna to see what gauge I achieve.
There are so many other options when working with
a lace weight yarn such as this. I could keep making
swatches of different combinations just to see what
turns out.
Loosely knit swatch in seed stitch yielded 16 sts x
26 rows on a US 8 [5mm] needle.
Sample swatch before blocking of a lace stitch
using US 6 [4mm] needles. The stitch detail is
quite muted by the Penna halo.
Wool Pop combined with Penna on a US 6 [4mm]
needle resulted in a gauge of 19 sts x 26 rows
KNITmuch | issue 13
29

Consistency in pattern when working in the round
Rose Kiss, Raspberry Tart, and Mulberry are my color choices for Plume.
I'll be knitting a cowl that was designed for this yarn.
This is a great beginner project for those who are new
to knitting with lace, or new to knitting in general. It’s
worked in the round using 3 different colors of Penna.
I’ve selected Rose Kiss, Raspberry Tart, and Mulberry
as my color choices. It’s knit using a simple seed stitch.
The pattern is called Plume, which is so appropriately
named given one of the translations for Penna. Here’s
where you can download the free pattern for the
Plume cowl.
Plume calls for using 3 balls of Penna, in the colors of
your choice. It’s worked in the round on US 8 [5mm]
needles, in seed stitch (K1, P1), however, I did make a
couple of adjustments along the way.
The pattern instructs to use an even number of stitches.
I’ve learned from experience that you can see the jog
from the beginning and ending of the round when
working in pattern. It doesn’t show up so much when
working in stocking stitch but can be seen in seed stitch.
Plume calls for using 3 balls of Penna, in the
colors of your choice. It’s worked in the round
on US 8 [5mm] needles, in seed stitch (K1, P1),
however, I did make a couple of adjustments
along the way.
30 KNITmuch | issue 13

As such, I used an odd number of stitches for my
cast on; 125 instead of 124. I must admit, that you’d
be hard-pressed to see the jog with this yarn. The
muted stitch detail masks it, so consider this a tip for
future pattern projects when working in the round.
The pattern is very simple:
Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end; when using an odd
number of stitches, you need one more k1.
Rnd 2: *P1, k1; rep from * to end; when using an odd
number of stitches, you need one more p1.
If you make it with an odd number of stitches, then
you consistently k1, p1 until the color change. It’s
that simple.
Speaking of color change, I decided to have a little
fun with it. Instead of “Break color A, change to
color B”, I joined color B (without breaking color A)
and proceeded as follows:
B: K1, slip 1 with yarn in front.
A: Slip 1, p1 with yarn in back.
I repeated these two rows 3 more times before
dropping color A and continuing with color B.
When it was time to change to color C, I did the
same process with B and C. It created a very
interesting color transition.
The end result is very pretty and makes for a light
and airy accessory. It’s also quite stretchy, which
allows you to double wrap it around your neck.
I was showing it off to some of my knitting pals
during a Zoom call, and double wrapped it. It
looked great, but after only a few moments, I had
to take it off because it was too warm for indoors.
That’s really good to know that it can be doubled
up for outside to keep you warm and unwound to
wear as a soft and lovely accessory when inside.
I was very surprised by how much yarn was still on
each ball. I weighed them and discovered that there
was 17g leftover, even with the extra rows that I put
in for the color change. Each color only used about
8g out of a 25g ball. This means you can easily
make 3 cowls out of the 3 balls, make it larger, or
double up the strands to make a chunkier version. If
a solid color is your preference, you could make this
cowl from 1 ball. I’d like to make another one using
double strands and a larger needle size; possibly a
US 10 [6mm] to keep it open and airy.
As mentioned previously, this is a great beginner
project for knitting with lace weight yarn, or if you’re
new to knitting. It knits up very quickly and looks
lovely, so perhaps you can get one more gift done
before Christmas.
My completed Plume cowl with slip stitch color transition
Double wrap Plume around your neck for added warmth.
KNITmuch | issue 13
31

Penna in color Raspberry Tart and Wool Pop in color Raisin are my choices for
the Raspberry Beret.
I’m making a Raspberry Beret, but not the kind
you’d find in a second-hand store. This one is made
with Penna in Raspberry Tart, combined with Wool
Pop in color Raisin.
The hat is made by holding a single strand of each
yarn together. It starts with the hat band using the
ribbed cable motif, joined to form a circle, and then
the stitches are picked up for the body and crown.
Increases are done with a yarn over on the first row;
then the yarn over is knit through the back loop on
the next row.
Based on the swatch I made in the previous article
about knitting swatches, I’m using a US 6 [4mm]
needle for the banding. I was originally thinking
that I would use that needle size for the entire hat
to keep the fabric dense, but discovered that it was
too dense and didn’t sit quite right for the body
and crown, so I changed to a US 7 [4.5mm].
The band is worked flat and joined at the ends
to make a circle. Joining can be accomplished
by grafting the two ends together, a 3 needle
bind off, or by sewing the cast on and off edges
together. If grafting or 3 needle bind off is your
preference, then you’ll need to do a provisional cast
on to start so that the live stitches can be picked
up from the beginning to be joined with the end
stitches. I opted for a 3 needle bind off, but any of
above methods will work. Whichever method you
choose, leave enough tail yarn to do the grafting or
seaming. This way, you won’t need to cut the yarn
when picking up the stitches for the crown.
Combining Penna
with another yarn
makes for endless
possibilities
For this project, you will need:
materials
yarn
• 1 ball of Penna in color Raspberry Tart
• 1 skein of Wool Pop in color Raisin
needles
• US 6 [4mm] circular needle in 16” or 32” for
magic loop, or double pointed needles
• US 7 [4.5mm] circular needle in 16” or 32” for
magic loop, or double pointed needles
• cable needle
notions
• 1 button with a shank
• tapestry needle to sew in ends and for grafting if
that is the chosen join method.
size
Sized to fit a 20” head.
gauge
18sts x 24 rows holding a strand of each yarn with a
US 7 [4.5mm] needle
32 KNITmuch | issue 13

abbreviations
BOR: beginning of round
dec: decrease
k: knit
k2tog knit 2: stitches together (1 st dec’d)
ktbl: knit through back loop
m: marker
p: purl
pm: place marker
RS: right side
sl: slip
st(s): stitch(es)
WS: wrong side
yo: yarn over
stitch definition
7×7 Left Cross Rib (LCR): Sl next 7 sts to cable
needle and hold in front, work the next 7 sts from
left needle in established rib pattern, work 7 sts
from cable needle in established rib pattern.
Band
With US6 [4mm] needles, cast on 20 sts (provisional
cast on if using grafting or 3 needle bind off).
Set up rows:
1st row: K2, p2, [k1, p1] 3 times, [p1, k1] 3 times, p2, k2.
2nd row: P2, k2, [p1, k1] 3 times, [k1, p1] 3 times,
k2, p2.
Ribbed Cable Pattern
(worked over 20sts)
Row 1 (RS): K2, p1, 7×7 LCR, p1, k2.
WS Rows 2-10: p2, k1, [p1, k1] 3 times, [k1, p1] 3
times, k1, p2.
RS Rows 3-9: K2, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, [p1, k1] 3 times,
p1, k2.
Rep Rows 1-10 for pattern.
Work 9 complete ribbed cable patterns, then work
rows 1 – 8.
Work should measure approximately 20” when
stretched.
Cast off and join to cast on row, or optionally, pick
up stitches from provisional cast on and either graft
or 3 needle bind off to join ends.
Raspberry Beret Band in Penna and Wool Pop joined in the round.
A raspberry shank button is used to finish off the top of the beret.
KNITmuch | issue 13
33

The completed Raspberry Beret worn Parisian style
The Body and Crown
With smaller circular needles, pick
up and knit 90 stitches evenly
around the band. Place a marker
to denote the beginning of
round (BOR).
K1, p1 for 4 rows.
*(K2, yo) repeat from * to end
of round, change to larger size
needles.
*(K2, ktbl) repeat from * to end of
round. 135 sts
Knit 8 rows.
Purl 1 row.
Knit 1 row.
Purl 1 row.
Knit 2 rows.
Dec Row – (K13, k2tog) repeat to
end of round. 126 sts
34 KNITmuch | issue 13
Knit 2 rows.
Dec Row – (K12, k2tog) repeat to
end round. 117 sts
Knit 2 rows.
Dec Row – (K11, k2tog) repeat to
end of round. 108 sts
Knit 1 row.
Continue decreasing in this
fashion (Knit 1 less stitch before
K2tog) on every other row until 9
stitches remaining.
Cut yarn, draw through
remaining stitches, and secure;
be sure to leave enough yarn for
sewing on the button.
Recently, I helped a friend unpack
and set up a new yarn store. As I
was setting up the button display,
one rogue button rolled across
the floor. It was a shank button in
raspberry, so I just had to use it
on my beret.
My Raspberry Beret is complete.
The first time I tried it on, it was a
little snug, but after trying it on
a couple of times, it fit perfectly.
What I find fun about it, is that
you can wear it different ways. I
can pull it over my ears if needed
for warmth, but I prefer wearing
it Parisian style – especially with
my Plume cowl. Oui, oui!
By combining Penna with Wool
Pop, I get a lovely rich halo of
raspberry intermixed with the
durability and softness of Wool
Pop in Raisin color.
I’m really pleased with the end
result. By taking a motif from a
sweater pattern and combining
Penna and Wool Pop together, I
ended up with a unique design.
Every time I wear my Raspberry
Beret, I will think of that song.

Elegance when matching the right
pattern with the right yarn
I’m going back to single strand
knitting by making an elegant stole. I
originally planned on making a lace
shawl but learned from the swatch in
the second article, that the feathery
halo of Penna muted the stitch detail.
You can have a beautiful pattern,
and beautiful yarn, but if they just
don’t work together, you end up
with something less than beautiful.
Both yarn and time is expensive;
and we don’t want to waste either
one. I decided that the lace pattern
needed to be simple so I went back
to basics. What’s more basic than
a feather and fan motif, and when
you think about the yarn translation,
nothing could be more appropriate.
My color choice for this project is
Bordeaux, and since one of my favorite
beverages is wine, I was smitten.
Feather and fan is an easy pattern
to knit, but also easy to adjust in
size. You can make it bigger or
smaller by adding or subtracting
multiples of 12 stitches. What
surprised me when knitting this
project (actually, all 3 projects) is
how far a single ball went. If you
recall from Day 1, a 25g ball of
Penna contains 186 yds [170m]. It
doesn’t seem like a lot, yet it is. By
using larger needles and creating
an open and airy fabric, the yarn
extends beyond that of “gauge
knitting”.
Bordeaux is my color choice for this project.
Completed stole made with Penna in Bordeaux. The rich feathery halo
highlights the feather and fan motif.
KNITmuch | issue 13
35

For this project, I used:
materials
yarn
• 3 balls of Penna in Bordeaux
needles
• US 8 [5mm] knitting needles
• tapestry needle to sew in ends
• finished measurements: 16 ½” x 62” after blocking
abbreviations
K: knit
K2tog: knit two stitches together
P: purl
Sl: slip
St(s): stitch or stitches
Yo: yarn over
Feather and Fan Stole
Cast on 78 sts.
Row 1 – 5: Sl1, knit to end of row.
Row 6: Sl1, purl to last 3 sts, k3.
The Pattern
Row 1: Sl1, k2, k2tog 3 times, *(yo, k1) 6 times,
k2tog 6 times, repeat from * twice more, (yo,
k1) 6 times, k2tog 3 times, k3.
Row 2: Sl1, k2, Purl to last sts, k3.
Row 3: Sl1, k to end of row.
Row 4: Sl1, k2, p to last sts, k3.
Work rows 1 – 4 until work measures 59½” or
desired length, ending with either row 1 or 3.
With wrong side facing, work 4 knit rows
remembering to slip the first stitch on every row.
Cast off.
When knitting a lace motif, blocking is an important
element in finishing your project. Lace work doesn’t
reveal its true beauty until blocked, and sometimes
this requires “hard blocking”. Hard blocking means
to use blocking wires, (if you have them) and pins to
hold the fabric open while drying.
Hard blocking requires wires and pins to hold the
fabric open while drying.
36 KNITmuch | issue 13

The fabric must be soaked, not just sprayed with
water. After soaking in a non-rinse solution, Soak
or Eucalan, I roll it in a towel and squeeze out as
much water as I can. Then spread it out on blocking
mats, and insert blocking wires down each side, and
pins to hold everything in place. Blocking mats can
be purchased from your local yarn store, but mine
came from a garage sale. These are children’s play
mats, but they’re the same thing. It’s a dense foam
mat that you can piece together for size, and insert
pins as needed. It only took a couple of hours to
dry given the lightness of the fabric, and the fact
that the furnace is running now, but I left it for a day
before unpinning. The result is beautiful.
I had intended to embellish it with beads while
knitting, but the beads that I had were not the right
color. I purchased clear beads with a silver interior
with the intention of sewing them on later and
thought to myself – perfect; wine in a crystal glass.
Sewing them on later turned out to be a pain, so I
went without. Next time, I’ll get the right beads in
advance and knit them into it as I go. However, I’m
quite pleased with the result.
The ensemble features an elegant Feather and Fan stole, the feathery light
Plume cowl, and a Raspberry Beret that combines Penna with Wool Pop.
Lace knitting doesn’t reveal its true beauty until blocked.
The feather and fan motif is perfect for Penna. The
feathery soft halo of the yarn doesn’t fight with the
pattern. They compliment each other very nicely.
This is a beautiful yarn and a beautiful pattern,
and the results are beautiful. I see myself getting
all dressed up for New Year’s Eve, wearing my
Bordeaux stole, and sipping a glass of wine while
watching the 2020 countdown from the comfort of
my living room sofa!
I hope this feature has inspired ideas on using
lace weight yarns, either singly, doubled up, or in
combination with other yarns. It has mine. I have
quite a stash of lace weight yarn, and now I can’t
wait to get started on another project that can
make good use of them – not just good – beautiful
use of them.
I’ve really enjoyed working with Universal Yarn
Penna. It’s opened up possibilities for me and I love
the results that I achieved with both Penna and
Wool Pop.
Cindy O'Malley
cindooknits.blogspot.com
KNITmuch | issue 13
37

Designing a men’s
sweater vest using
Universal Yarn
Colorburst
Charles Voth
Universal Yarn Colorburst
It’s been a while since I’ve designed and knit
something for myself. When I discovered Colorburst
by Universal Yarn in the summer 2020 and knit
the shawl with it, I thought this yarn would make a
perfect men’s sweater vest. As I explore Universal
Yarn Colorburst further, please join me in designing
your own vest using the general framework with
which I’ll provide you.
Get your notepad, pencil, knitting needles and Colorburst yarn, you’re
learning how to design your own vest!
Step 1
Swatch to your heart’s content! I have more than 10
stitch dictionaries and continuously find more and
more stitch patterns online as well. They all serve as
inspiration, but until I’ve used the yarn in swatches,
and seen how it knits, looks, and behaves, there’s
no deciding which stitch pattern I’ll use, or whether
I’ll stick with the basics like stockinette, garter stitch,
ribbing, or moss stitch.
By studying yarn behavior, I mean that I consider
aspects like thickness, drape, stitch definition, how
colors interact with each other and with the stitch
patterns, and how it washes up and blocks. I’d
encourage you to swatch at least 4 or 5 different
stitch patterns with Colorburst to see what needle
size you’d like to use to give the best drape and
texture. Keep ALL the notes you take, especially
gauge, but other notes and thoughts you’ve had
about the yarn, too.
In the swatch above, I like how the mock cable
looks, but the extended stitch double moss
stitch just doesn’t convince me because the yarn
untwisted and looked untidy. I also found that I like
a firmer stockinette panel, so I went down a needle
size for the stockinette rows.
Tuck stitch brocade using Universal Yarn Colorburst
This tuck stitch brocade looks lovely. I really like how
the diagonal lines that are in a different section of
the color sequence than the background stitches
stand out. I realized that I would need a wider panel
so that the self-striping bands would be narrower to
best take advantage of this stitch pattern, so I didn’t
select it for the vest, but I’ll share how to knit later.
Mock cable on this swatch didn’t hold its shape
38 KNITmuch | issue 13
Photos by Charles Voth

Which measurements matter in
designing a men’s sweater vest?
Step 2
The 2nd step of designing involves taking and
recording accurate measurements and determining
how much ease you want to build into your design.
I like my sweaters and vests to fit closer to my torso,
so I only add about 2” of ease to the chest and
tummy measurements. This leaves room for a t-shirt
or dress shirt to go underneath without bundling
up uncomfortably. Some guys like the big baggy
look, and for them you’ll need to add 4” to 6” of
ease to the chest and tummy measurements.
The most crucial measurement for a sweater
vest is the cross-back measurement. To get this
measurement, find the knobby shoulder bone at
the crest of your man’s shoulders and measure
across the back of the neck from one shoulder
to the other. If the wearer is in absentia, or if it’s
for you, can find a friend to measure your back,
then find a dress shirt he likes and that sits well
on his back and measure from between the two
sleeve seams across the back near the top. To this
measurement, you do not want to add any ease,
but if you want the shoulder straps to be narrow,
you can subtract between 1” to 3”. I wanted my
sweater vest shoulders to be substantial for warmth
over fashion. In the photo above, you can see that I
went with 19½”. If you’re going to work wide sleeve
opening edgings, you’ll need to also make the
shoulder straps slightly narrower to accommodate
the edge ribbing. I wanted the ribbing on my sleeve
openings to hug my shoulder, so I didn’t subtract
any width from my cross-back measurement.
The cross-back measurement is the most crucial
because it determines the point from which the
whole garment will drape downward.
Colorburst comes in many different palettes, any of which would serve for a
gentleman’s personal preference and panache.
Swatching is a must when designing your own men’s vest with any yarn.
With Colorburst, it’s all about the width of the stripes and the best textures.
KNITmuch | issue 13
39

The Earth and Sky colorway of Colorburst has two of my favorite colors, plum
and teal. It’s just the right amount of warmth for a winter’s day of reading.
These size US4 [3.5mm] needles were the perfect size for a tight 2×2 ribbing
on the hem and armhole edgings for this vest, but I did use size US5 for the
front, and size US6 for the back of the vest.
Take the chest measurement across the widest
section of the chest and upper back with the arms
up or use a t-shirt that isn’t loose on the wearer. If
you don’t have a form-fitting t-shirt, you can use
the loose shirt chest measurement, but you won’t
add additional ease, as that’s already built-in. If the
tummy measurement (taken at the belly button or
widest point just above or below the belly button) is
greater than the chest measurement, then you will
need to have zero ease added and use the belly
measurement as the chest measurement.
The next two important measurements to take are
the lengths. First determine if the wearer wants the
bottom hem to land just above his belt loops, just
below the belt loops, or longer; some men like
sweater vests to land mid-buttocks. Then, place
the measuring tape just beside the neck, at the
center of the shoulder where the seam should sit
and measure from there along the back to the
desired length.
Measure from the same point keeping the tape
right on the chest and tummy curves to the desired
length. If the front length is longer than the back
length (which is usually the case for men with
larger stomachs, then you need to go with the front
length, otherwise, use the back length.
When you’re all done, sketch out a schematic
diagram for the sweater vest and label the
measurements you have. For the chest
measurements with ease added in, divide in half
for the diagram. The width of the neck opening
will be between 8” and 10”, depending on how
thick or wide the back of the next is. The depth
of the armhole will usually be around 9 inches,
but for men with ample pectoral muscles and big
biceps, you could go as deep as 11” or 12”. I take the
circumference of the upper arm, add 4” for ease,
and then divide that total by 2 for the depth of the
arm opening from the initial bind-off at the under
arm to the first bind off at the shoulders. I start the
V-neck opening about 1½” above the beginning of
the armhole shaping.
Keep reading, I’ll show you how to calculate all
the numbers of rows and stitches for your design
and give you an example of two stitch patterns
you could work into part of the vest as a design
element. Universal Yarn Colorburst and my Karbonz
by Knitter’s Pride add excitement to this designing
adventure! Join me!
40 KNITmuch | issue 13

Calculations for a men’s
Colorburst sweater vest
Step 3 All the calculations
In the vest that I’m wearing in this photo, I
experimented with abstract and asymmetrical
textures and stitch patterns, because I wanted to
visually disrupt the stripes and be playful. But I
realize this isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, so for this
project I will lead you through working in plain
stockinette stitch. Friday, we’ll discuss what you
would need to do if you choose to use a different
stitch pattern say on the back of the vest, or just on
the front.
Colorburst yarn knits on average to 23 stitches and
29 rows per 4” on size US 5 [3.75mm] needles. It’s
a versatile yarn gauge-wise, so you could knit with
smaller needles to achieve a slightly firm fabric or
go up to even US 7 [4.5mm] needles for a lovely
drape that still isn’t lace-like. For this project, we’ll
stick with the gauge on the yarn label, though.
Colorburst comes in many different palettes,
any of which would serve for a gentleman’s
personal preference and panache.
Texture and cables disrupt the self-striping pattern knit from Colorburst Yarn.
This vest is worked in two pieces and seamed at
the shoulders and sides. A neckband and armhole
edgings are picked up and knit separately. I knit
these in a 2×2 ribbing, and did a waist band that
way as well, so I’ll show you how to calculate the
stitches for the chest measurement first and then
how to modify that number for the cast-on stitch
count and the ribbing.
When calculating stitches in knitting we use a few
basic mathematical equations, and I always use a
calculator and double or triple check all my work.
The stitch gauge of 23 sts over 4” will be key.
For my vest with a width of 22” for the back and
front, we need the same number of stitches to work
up the torso. We know that 23 stitches are worked
over 4”, but we need to know how many stitches
we’ll have for 22”. I draw a simple chart like this.
These measurements can be changed to make a custom fitting sweater vest for
a man in your life, or yourself.
KNITmuch | issue 13
41

I start with the number that I have on the diagram,
which is 22” and cross diagonally to the opposite
number, which is 23 and multiply these together, 22
x 23 = 506. Then I take this result and move to the
third and unused number, 4 in this case, and divide
4 into the larger number, 506 ÷ 4 = 126.5. I have
to round up or down because the result wasn’t a
whole number. Before I do that, I want to see how
a 2×2 ribbing would work with this number, as
the best 2×2 ribbing on a piece that will be sewn
to another similar half will consist of a multiple of
4, plus 2. 124 is a multiple of 4, plus 2 equals 126,
so I’m rounding down instead of rounding up to
127. In the 2020s the ribbing is not as gathered
or grippy as the ribbing that was customary on
sweaters from the mid to late 20th century, where
it was typical to decrease the waistband stitches by
10% or more and to use smaller needles. For my
vest, I did go down to size US4 [3.5mm] needles for
the ribbing, but I didn’t cast on 10% fewer stitches…
so we’ll stick with 126 stitches cast on US4 needles
and work ribbing as follows.
Row 1: K2, [p2, k2] across.
Row 2: P2, [k2, p2] across.
Repeat these 2 rows for the ribbing pattern.
I knit about 2¾” worth of 2×2 ribbing before
changing to stockinette, but you can do as you
wish. Then change to size US5 [3.75mm] needles for
the stockinette up the Back piece of the vest. Work
until the Back is 15” long. Now we need to do some
more calculations.
Those white stitches are placeholders to help guide me when I’m preparing
the steek on the V-neck of this sweater vest.
The cross-back measurement determines how
many stitches have to come off on each armhole
side. On the schematic, you’ll see that we need
to lose 2½” worth of stitches on each side, and
the armhole shaping is a curve. The diagrams are
always pictured as a neat curve, but in the knitting
it’s a little more angular. Once the ribbing is worked
in, the curved look shows up better.
So, I’ll use the same chart with different numbers
and my math formula ends up as: 23 x 1.25 ÷ 4.
This yields 7 stitches once I’ve rounded off. I take a
rough third of this number for my initial bind off, the
next rough third I decrease by ones every 2nd row,
and the remaining stitches I decrease by ones every
3rd row. If I were using a chunkier yarn or a finer
yarn, there would be a different way to achieve a
curved slope, but we’ll leave it at this for now.
Your instructions would read as follows.
Bind off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2
rows. Then decrease 1 stitch on each edge every
other row 2 times, and then decrease 1 stitch on
each edge every third row 2 times.
This would bring you down to 112 stitches for the
cross-back.
Work even in stockinette until the armhole depth
is 9”. Now we need to calculate the slope of the
shoulders.
The back of the neck is 8”, so using the same chart
above we do 23 x 8 ÷ 4. This yields 46 stitches. We
subtract 46 from 112 to get 66 stitches. We need
half of 66 on each side of the upper back for the
shoulders so we can use 33 sts. To create a slope,
I usually cast off ⅓ of the shoulder at a time. The
pattern would read.
Bind off 11 stitches at the beginning of the next 6
rows. Place remaining stitches on a holder for later.
The front is worked the same up to the beginning
of the V-neck, but we’ll see that next because I’d
also like to introduce you to steeking, and why I
used it on this sweater vest. Knowing how to design
your own vest is an exceptional experience, knitting
with Universal Yarn Colorburst and Knitter’s Pride
Karbonz is delightful.
42 KNITmuch | issue 13

Colorburst looks best with a steeked V-neck
Steeking the V-neck opening ensures that the stripes match on either side, which just brings out the best of this self-striping Colorburst yarn.
We’ll take a look at steeking and why I use it on
this design.
Because the center front has an even number of
stitches, about an inch before I start the armhole
shaping, I decreased a stitch near the center of the
front panel. It’s hidden by the cables that I have
crossing my front design, but if you’re working in
stockinette, you can decrease that stitch near one
of the edges where it won’t be visible to have an
even number of stitches, in this case 125 before the
armhole shaping, and 111 stitches after.
When I want to start the V-neck opening, I knit to
the center stitch (continuing the armhole shaping if
that’s not finished yet) and place it on a locking stich
marker. Then I cast on 6 stitches by adding reverse
cross yarn-over loops onto the RH needle, and
then finishing the row as established. Then I need to
calculate the rate of decreases to shape the sides of
the V-neck opening. Do not forget that these extra
6 stitches need a stitch marker before and after
them because they are worked straight, and any
shaping is worked outside of the pair stitch markers.
I chose to work a steek because then I’m
guaranteed that both sides of the V-neck opening
have symmetrical stripes. If I were to work one
side of the neck opening first and then the other,
first of all the stripes would be wider, and secondly,
there would be an abrupt transition when I joined
the yarn on the 2nd half. If I didn’t want an abrupt
change, I’d have to discard lengths of the yarn until
I got to the same color repeat and sequence as the
first half. All in all, too risky for my taste.
With a different yarn, I basted long stitches between the columns of stitches
where the stitch markers keep the steek stitches from being worked into the
neck shaping.
KNITmuch | issue 13
43

Each side of the V-neck is 4” wide, so I can simply
use my gauge of 23 stitches over 4” as the number
of decreases I need to work. However, if your neck
opening is wider than 8”, you’ll need to do the
same calculation as IN the last article, to figure out
how many stitches correspond to your width.
For me, this is when row gauge is valuable for the
first time in this particular project. Because I have
a whole Back and a lower Front panel done, I can
take my row gauge from these and have a more
accurate row gauge to use in my calculations than
a measly 4-inch square. The depth of my V-neck is
8¾” and my row gauge is 29 rows per 4”. I use the
same calculation, starting with the known amount
of 29 rows times the desired length, 8¾”, divided
by the gauge length, 4”. 29 × 8¾ ÷ 4 = 63 rows…I
want an even number, so I’ll round up to 64. In
addition, I have 6 rows that I need to use for the
shoulder shaping, and I’d rather have my neck
opening shaping done before I get to those last 6
rows, so I will use 58 rows to work my shaping.
The dilemma now is that I have 23 stitches I need to
decrease over 58 rows. If I decrease 1 stitch every
other row on each side of the neck opening, I’ll
be done in 46 rows and have 12 rows left to work
straight. That’s easy! If I don’t want a steep V-neck
opening, I could space out the decreases a little
more, so I’ll show you how I calculate that.
The following formula uses long division and a few
sums. This formula is amazingly simple and helps
solve the distribution of increases or decreases at all
different moments while you’re designing. I learned
it from the book Knitwear Design Workshop by
Shirley Paden. It‘s by far the most recent publication
that’s comprehensive and I’d recommend it to any
budding designer if you want to explore this more
than what we’re doing from this feature.
You take the smaller number (in this case the
number of decreases for the side of the V-neck)
and divide it into the larger number (the rows for
the V-neck depth) and you figure out the remainder
(R) instead of using decimal places. Then you
subtract the remainder from 23 to get another
number (11). At the top, you take the answer of
the division calculation and always add 1 to it and
write down that answer above the one that you did
below. Then you circle across the written work to
get these important numbers.
The right side and wrong side of the steek stitches are shown here with the
white yarn basted in to make the path for the sewn zigzag stitches.
44 KNITmuch | issue 13

The steek has been cut open and is not unraveling because of the sewn
zigzag stitches along the inner 4 steek stitches.
Now that you know the
frequency of the decreases,
you can space them out two
different ways. You can do the
first 11 decreases every other
row first (that’s 22 rows), and
then the next 12 decreases every
3rd row (that’s 36 rows). 22 +
36 is equal to 58…the depth of
the V-neck section of the vest.
Remember that these decreases
are worked on the outside of the
pair of stitch markers that keep
the center 6 steek stitches in
plain stockinette.
You can also alternate and
*decrease 1 st every 3rd row once;
then decrease 1 st every 2nd row
once; then rep from the * until
you’ve worked 23 decreases and
you’ll have reached 58 rows.
By decreasing for the neck, I have
removed 23 + 1 (center stitch
waiting on marker) + 23 stitches
from the center 111 of the front
panel. This leaves 32 stitches
on each side. I would bind off 11
stitches at the beginning of the
next 4 rows, then 10 stitches at
the beginning of the next 2 rows
for the shoulder shaping and
bind off the 6 steeking stitches at
the end. Then it’s time to prepare
the steek for cutting.
The walking foot on my sewing machine is ready to secure the steek stitches
with zigzag stitching.
Using a broken zigzag stitch on my sewing
machine and a walking foot, I stitched along
columns 2 and 3, and 4 and 5 of the steeked
stitches, leaving columns 1 and 6 untouched.
Then I simply cut between the 2 center columns
of steek stitches, which remain safe from
unraveling with the zigzag stitches.
If you don’t have a sewing machine, there
are ways to prepare steeks with crochet
stitches or hand-sewn stitches, and plenty
of online tutorials, so don’t let no machine
slow you down!
Colorburst yarn self-striping pattern stays
symmetrical with this steeked V-neck opening,
making it look great!
KNITmuch | issue 13
45

Designing those just-right finishing touches
on the Colorburst vest
Colorburst in the Earth and Sky colorway make the perfect sweater vest.
The self-striping Colorburst yarn effortlessly adds
interest to my vest so I can get creative on other
design elements. We’ll look at the ribbing edgings
for the V-neck and the armhole openings, and I’ll
share the instructions for the 3 different textured
stitches you’ve seen in my vest and the swatches
that didn’t make it into the vest.
To add the ribbing to the V-neck opening, we
need to know the length of the diagonal edge
and the number of rows that were used. In the
example we’ve been looking, we had 64 rows. The
diagonal measurement after I cut the steek open
and the shoulders for each side lay flat is 9”. In this
case, the row gauge may not match the diagonal
measurement because of the shaping.
I use the inches measurement to calculate how
many stitches to pick up for the 2×2 ribbing and I
use the row count to figure out how to distribute
the picking up of the stitches along the edge evenly.
The next important piece of information I need
is my gauge for the 2×2 ribbing. I knit mine with
slightly smaller needles, so when I measure my
ribbing gauge along the bottom of the vest I get
25 stitches across 4”. This means that for one edge
of the V-neck shaping I need 9 × 25 ÷ 4 = 56
stitches. In the end, I’ll pick up 56 stitches on each
side of the V-neck opening, add the 1 stitch on the
locking stitch marker, and the 46 stitches waiting on
a holder for the back of the neck for a grand total
of 159 stitches. This will work perfectly so that the
ribbing at the valley of the V-neck will allow me to
use double-decreases every other row so that the
center stitch travels up vertically. Now, I sew the
shoulder seams and get set to pick up stitches.
After carefully cutting the steek open for the V-neck, the ribbing can be applied.
46 KNITmuch | issue 13
Take the ribbing gauge from the waistband.

We need to figure out how to
distribute the picking up of
stitches for the ribbing along
the diagonal edge of the V-neck
opening.
• First, let’s do a little thinking
through of all this. There are
64 rows, and we need to
pick up 56 stitches, which
means that there are 8 extra
rows that we will need to skip
evenly across as we pick up.
• So 8 is our small number
and 64 is our big number. 8
divides into 64 evenly, so
we won’t need to use the
“magic” formula from last
article just yet.
• For the neck opening we need
to skip one row for every 8 we
pick up stitches along.
• Starting on the left edge of
the neck opening, I don’t want
the first or last row to be the
skipped one, so I will first pick
up and knit 4 stitches, then
skip 1.
• Then I’ll repeat [pick up a stitch
in each of next 7 rows, and skip
next row] 7 times, and I’ll have
3 rows remaining to pick up 1
stitch in each of them.
• Then I’ll add the stitch off the
locking marker, pick up 3 sts,
then [skip 1 rows, pick up 1
stitch in each of next 7 rows] 8
times, and finish with 4 more
stitches.
• Finally, I’ll add the 4 stitches
across the back neck.
• My favorite technique for
picking up stitches is to use a
crochet hook that doesn’t have
a flat thumb rest or a thick
handle on it; these Knitter’s
Pride rosewood hooks are
sharp and perfect for this task.
Using sharp and straight Symfonie Rose hooks to pick up stitches makes my life so much easier.
You can load up the crochet hook with quite a few stitches before
transferring them off the tail end onto your knitting needle. I used
a size 4US [3.5mm] circular needle to work the ribbing around the
neck opening.
The final step for this sweater vest is to add the same 2×2 ribbing
edging to the armholes. The number of rows across which we need
to pick up stitches will most likely not be the same as that of the
neck opening, so we may need to use the “magic” formula to figure
out how to distribute the ribbing stitches evenly. Starting with the 3
stitches that are bound off at the start of the armhole shaping on both
front and back, we know we’ll need to pick up 6 stitches across that
area. Then the armhole depth is 9”. With the row gauge of 29 rows per
4 inches, we use the calculation, 9 × 29 ÷ 4, and that gives us 65 rows
to work across as well.
Use the crochet hook to draw up a loop in the end of each row and then slide them off onto the
knitting needles.
KNITmuch | issue 13
47

Unique Quilting Clever Clips are the perfect tool to ensure even seams when
joining the sides of the sweater vest.
I use my 2×2 ribbing gauge of 25 stitches per 4”
and the same 9” measurement to see how many
stitches I’ll need to pick up. 9 × 25 ÷ 4 = 56 stitches.
The total will be 56 + 56 + 6 (for the bound off
stitches) = 118. I don’t want my armhole ribbing
bands to stick out like wings, so I’ll actually decrease
the total number of stitches I need to pick up by
7%. That gives me approximately 109.74 stitches
to pick up. 2×2 ribbing requires a multiple of 4
stitches when knit in the round, so I’m going to
use 108 stitches in total. I still will need 6 across
those bound off stitches at the base of the opening,
108 – 6 = 102. So that will be 51 stitches on each
side. Now I need to know how many rows to skip
when I’m picking up 51 stitches along 65 rows: 65
– 51 = 14 rows to be skipped. It’s time to use that
“magic” formula to figure out how to distribute these
skipped rows evenly.
All done! I painted with texture while working up this vest, just trying out
something a little unconventional.
My armhole
ribbing set-up
row instructions
will read, “Join
yarn at seam
under arm, pick
up and knit 3
sts across bound off edge, working along edge of
armhole, *[sk next row, pick up a stitch in each of
next 3 rows, sk next row, pick up a stitch in each of
next 4 rows] 5 times, [sk next row, pick up a stitch in
each of next 4 rows] 4 times, now working from top
shoulder seam, rep from * once, pick up and knit 3
sts across bound of edge, join to work in the round.”
Total 108 sts. Work 2×2 ribbing for 4 rounds. Bind off
in 2×2 ribbing.
You’ll see in the photo above that I played around
with textured stitches in my version of the vest. This
was a lot of fun, but I realize that not everyone
would love this, so the instructions have all been for
a plain stockinette vest. If you’d like to experiment
with some of the textures I’ve shared, I’ll give you
instructions for them.
From left to right, the stitch patterns are called, Modified Seed Stitch, Crossed Rattan Stitch, and Tucked Brocade stitch.
48 KNITmuch | issue 13

I hope you share your custom
sweater vest designs modelled
by the men who received them.
Please ask any questions you
may have about particular
areas you design or knit with
trepidation.
And now, I’ll share the instructions
for these three stitch patterns.
Modified Seed Stitch
Special stitch
Wrapped stitch Insert RH needle
between first and second sts on
LH needle and knit up a loop,
place this loop on the LH needle
tip. Knit that loop together with
the first stitch through their back
loops.
Worked across an even number
of stitches
Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2: [sl 1, p1] across.
Row 3: [k1, wrapped st] across.
Row 4: [p1, sl 1] across.
Row 5: [wrapped st, k1] across.
Repeat Rows 2-5 for pattern.
Crossed Rattan Stitch
Cast on a multiple of 2 stitches,
plus 3 for symmetry and edgings.
Special Stitches
Lift st Insert tip of RH needle
between 2nd and 3rd sts on LH
needle and knit up a loop and
extend it generously across the
gap towards the stitches on the
RH needle.
Reverse yarn over (rev-yo)
Bring yarn from back of work
over RH needle and return
between needle tips to the back
of the work.
K1tlb Knit 1 through back loop.
Left-leaning increase (llinc)
With LH needle tip lift loop of
yarn from 2 rows below first st on
RH needle and knit into this loop.
Set-up Row (WS): K2, [p1, k1]
across to last st, k1.
Row 1 (RS): K2, [lift st, rev-yo, k1]
across to last st, k1.
Row 2: K1, k2tog, [p2tog, k1tbl]
across to last 3 sts, p2tog,
llinc, k1.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 for pattern,
ending with a row 2.
Tucked Brocade Stitch
Special Stitch
4-row tuck stitch (4tk-st)
Counting horizontal strands
between first stitches on both
needle tips, count 4 down and
insert hook below all 4 horizontal
strands, yarn-over twice and knit
up stitch enough to reach the
current row.
Cast on an even number of
stitches, plus 6 for symmetry and
edgings.
Set-up Rows
Knit 8 rows.
[Knit 1 row; purl 1 row] twice.
Row 1: K3, [4tk-st, k2] across to
last 3 sts, 4tk-st, k3.
Row 2: P3, [sl 1 st knitwise
releasing extra loop, p2]
across to last st, p1.
Row 3: K2, *insert RH needle as
if to knit 2 sts together, knit
but bring RH needle tip
up between the 2 sts and
only slip off first st, knit
next st on LH needle, pass
partially knit st over the
st just worked; rep from *
across to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K2, [4tk-st, k2] across to
last 2 sts, 4tk-st, k2.
Row 6: P2, [sl 1 st knitwise
releasing extra loop, p2]
across.
Row 7: K1, *insert RH needle as if
to knit 2 sts together, knit
but bring RH needle tip
up between the 2 sts and
only slip off first st, knit
next st on LH needle, pass
partially knit st over the
st just worked; rep from *
across to last st, k1.
Row 8: Purl.
Repeat Rows 1-8 for pattern.
Time flies when you’re having
fun knitting with self-striping
Colorburst yarn, Knitter’s Pride
Karbonz, and the very yummy
Knitter’s Pride rosewood crochet
hooks!
Charles Voth
charlesvothdesigns.ca
KNITmuch | issue 13
49

Vendors
Demonstrations
Workshops
Food
Knitting
Felting
Rug Hooking
Spinning
Weaving
Saturday, October 16, 2021
9am to 5pm
Paris Fairgrounds, 139 Silver Street, Paris, Ontario N3L 3E7
www.fleecefestival.com
Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com
Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com
Standard Yarn Weight System
Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com
Standard abbreviations and terms
Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, Standard recommended Yarn Weight needle System and hook sizes
alt = alternate
approx = approximately
Standard
Yarn Weight
Yarn Weight System
beg = begin(ning)
Symbol &
BO= bind off
Category
Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle CC = contrast and hook colorsizes
Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes
Names
Yarn Weight
Type of
Yarns in
Category
Symbol &
Category
Names
Fingering,
10 count
crochet thread
Knit Gauge
Type of Range* in Fingering, Sock,
Yarns in
33–40**
Stockinette 10 count Fingering,
sts
Category Stitch to crochet thread Baby
4 inches
Knit Gauge
Range* in Recommended
33–40** 27–32
Stockinette Needle in 1.5–2.25
Stitch to Metric Size
sts
mm
sts
4 inches Range
Sock,
Fingering,
Baby
27–32
sts
2.25–3.25
mm
Yarn Weight
Symbol &
Sport, Category
Names Baby
DK,
Light
Worsted
Worsted,
Afghan,
Aran
Chunky,
Craft,
Rug
Bulky,
Roving
Jumbo,
Roving
Type of
Fingering, Sock,
DK,
Yarns in DK, 10 count Worsted, Fingering, Chunky,
Sport,
Sport,
6 sts
23–26 21–24 16–20 12–15 BabyBulky,
Light
7–11 Jumbo,
Category Light crochet thread Afghan, Baby Craft,
Baby
Worsted and
sts
sts
sts
sts Roving sts Roving
Worsted
Aran
Rug
fewer
Knit Gauge
Range* in
33–40** 27–32
23–26
Stockinette
21–24
3.25–3.75 Stitch to 3.75–4.5sts
16–20
4.5–5.5sts
12–15
sts
4 mm
sts
inches mm
sts
mm
sts
Steel***
1.6–1.4 mm
23–26 21–24
6 sts
16–20
12.75 mm
5.5–8 sts 7–11
8–12.75 sts
and
sts
and
mm
sts
mm fewer
larger
Recommended
k3tog = knit 3 sts together (double right-leaning decrease)
Recommended Recommended
Needle in 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75 3.75–4.5
17
4.5–5.5 5.5–8 m = marker
12.75 mm
Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 3 to 5 5 to 7 7 to 9 9 to 11 11 to 17 12.75 mm
8–12.75
Needle in 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75Metric Size 3.75–4.5 mm4.5–5.5
mm 5.5–8 mm8–12.75
mm
and
mm
mm m = meter(s)
and
Size Range
and
mm
Metric Size
mm
mm
mm
larger
Range mm
mm
mm
mm
m1 = Make 1 stitch: pick larger up the horizontal strand between 2 stitches
larger
Range
from front to back and knit it tbl (lifted increase)
Crochet
Recommended
MC = main color 17
Gauge*Ranges 32–42
6 sts
Recommended
21–32 16–20 12–17 11–14
8–11
7–9
in Single
double
Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 3 to 5 5 to 7 17
mm = millimetre(s)
and
7 to 9 9 to 11 11 to 17
and
oz = ounce(s)
Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 sts 3 to 5 sts
sts
sts
sts
sts
Crochet to crochets**
Size Range 5 to 7 7 to 9 9 to 11 11 to 17
and
fewer
p = purl
larger
Size Range
larger
4 inch
p2tog = purl 2 sts tog (decrease)
Crochet
patt = pattern
Crochet
Steel***
Gauge*Ranges 32–42
6 sts
Gauge*Ranges Recommended 32–42
21–32 16–20 12–17 15 mm 11–14
8–11 pfb = purl 7–9 into front and back of stitch (increase)
1.6–1.4 mm 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 in Single 4.5–5.5 double
6.5–9
9–15 6 sts
and
in Single Hook in Metric
21–32 16–20 12–17 11–14
double
5.5–6.5mmsts
8–11 sts 7–9 sts and sts
sts
pm = place
sts
marker
Regular hook mm
Crochet mm to mm crochets**
mm
mm and
fewer
Crochet to Size Range
sts
sts
sts
sts
sts
sts
psso = pass slipped stitch over
crochets**
larger
2.25 mm
4 inch
fewer
RS = right side
4 inch
rem = remain(ing)
Steel*** Steel***
Recommended
2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 4.5–5.5
6.5–9rev = reverse 15 mm
Recommended Recommended 6, 7, 8
Hook in Metric
I–9
15 mm
9–15
1.6–1.4 mm 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 4.5–5.5 Regular hook mm 6.5–9
Q
K–10
Hook U.S. Size Regular B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7 7 to I–9
to
1 ⁄2 mm 9–15
5.5–6.5mm
M-13 mm
mm rnd = round
and
Hook in Metric
Size Range
5.5–6.5mm
and
mm
Regular hook mm
mm
mm 2.25 mm
mm
and
to M-13 mm
sc = single crochet larger
Size Range
to Q
Range
hook
K–10 1 ⁄2
larger larger
sl = slip
2.25 mm
B–1
skp = slip one st, knit next st, pass slipped st over knit st (dec)
Steel***
ssk = slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts knitwise, 1 at a time, insert left-hand needle
Steel***
Recommended 6, 7, 8
I–9
into front of both
Q
sts and knit them tog (left-leaning decrease)
* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.
K–10
Hook U.S. Size Regular B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7 7 to I–9
to
1 ⁄2
Recommended 6, 7, 8
I–9
Q
sssk = slip M-13 next three stitches individually, knitwise. Insert tip of left
and
** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create K–10 lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a
Hook U.S. Size Regular B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7
to M-13
to Q
gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow Range 7 to I–9
the gauge stated hook to
1 ⁄2 M-13
needle from front to back into the fronts of these three stitches and
and
in your pattern.
K–10 1 ⁄2
to M-13
to Q
knit them together larger(double left-leaning decrease)
Range
hook
B–1K–10 1 ⁄2
larger
*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse
st(s) = stitch(es)
of regular B–1 hook sizing.
St st = stocking stitch
tbl = through back loop
This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable * GUIDELINES symbol artwork ONLY: The are above available reflect at: YarnStandards.com
the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for tog specific = together yarn categories.
* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly ** Lace used weight gauges
11 yarns and needle are usually or hook knitted sizes or for crocheted specific yarn on larger categories. needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork tr = treble patterns. crochet Accordingly, a
** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger gauge needles range is and difficult hooks to to determine. create lacy, Always openwork follow patterns. the gauge Accordingly, stated your a pattern. WS = wrong side
gauge
50range is
KNITmuch
difficult to determine. | Always
issue
follow
13the gauge *** Steel stated crochet in your hooks pattern. are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller yo the = hook, yarn which over is the reverse
*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular of hooks--the regular hook higher sizing. the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse
of regular hook sizing.
This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com
Worsted,
Afghan,
Aran
ch = chain
cm = centimetre(s)
cn = cable needle
co = cast on
cont = continue, continuing
dc = double crochet
Chunky, dec = decrease(s), decreasing
Bulky,
Jumbo,
Craft, dpn = double-pointed needle(s)
Roving Roving
Rug
foll = following
g = gram(s)
hdc = half double crochet
inc = increase(s), increasing
6 sts
12–15 in(s) = inch(es) 7–11
and
sts k = knit sts
kfandb or kfb = knit into fewerfront and back of st (increase)
ktbl = knit through the back loop
k2tog = knit 2 sts tog (right-leaning decrease)
rep = repeat