Adventure Magazine

adventure 

where actions speak louder than words 

camping & tramping 

issue 

ISSUE 228 

OCT/NOV 2021 

NZ $10.90 incl. GST

Make your miles wild. 

merrell.co.nz 

Where the pavement ends, adventure begins. 

Prepare for everything in the ultra-rugged 

Merrell Agility Peak 4.

Paved paradise... 

The value of a walk, a stroll, a tramp, a 

hike has come into a clearer vision of 

late. Covid/Delta has a massive raft of 

negatives attached to it for everyone, 

but one thing it did do is get people 

walking. Sure, they may not have been 

out on overnight hikes or climbing 

mountains, but they were outside 

walking, not stuck behind a desk or 

in front of a screen, and felt the real 

need and the value of simply walking 

outside. 

The old adage in Joni Mitchell’s song 

‘You don’t know what you’ve got till it 

gone’ is very true. Take away the option 

of activities, add confinement, add 

uncertainty and you soon see the value 

in a simple walk. 

The actual clinical value is extremely 

well documented and the simple 

benefits of an hours walk per day; will 

burn calories, strengthen muscles, 

maintain flexibility and strengthen your 

cardiovascular. It can even lower your 

blood sugar and one research said 

that those who walked an hour per day 

lived up to twenty years longer. 

Another range of internal benefits to 

simply walking is that it clears the mind 

and connects us with nature, even in a 

city setting. It encourages conversation 

and gives creativity of thought. 

A few years back I had a subtalar 

fusion on my left foot (you can google 

that), the recovery was hard. I had all 

sorts of physical therapy, acupuncture, 

salty water injections and it remained 

painful and inflexible. I had resigned 

myself to it and its lack of use. Then 

my wife bought me a dog, a big dog, 

a dog that needs a walk. Even though 

uncomfortable, the simple process of 

walking, regularly, had huge remedial 

effects. To the point, I called the 

surgeon who had done the operation 

and suggested to him if his patients are 

slow to recover, tell them to buy a dog 

and walk! 

The truth is we could all do with 

walking a little more, but often we allow 

things to get in the way; family, work, 

weather, but during the lockdown, 

people took the time to walk and talk, 

what else are you doing to do right? 

Yet everyone who walked each day 

for exercise during lockdown, saw the 

value in it. The trick now is to maintain 

the momentum. 

Keep walking, strolling, hiking, 

tramping - welcome to the tramping 

and camping issue we know it will keep 

you motivated. 

Steve Dickinson - Editor 

Editor, Steve Dickinson and his motivation to walk... 

HIGH 

PERFORMANCE 

THAT DOESN’T 

WEIGH 

YOU DOWN 

Lightweight, compact and comfortable. 

What’s most important to you? 

FIND A STOCKIST www.southernapproach.co.nz

page 08 

#228 

contents 

Image by Greg Knell Image by Derek Cheng 

Image compliments Barny 

page 14 

page 24 

08//Packrafting 

a beginners perspective 

14//Sinbad, Terror Creek 

and the 11 day weather window 

24//Exploring the Beaten Tracks 

and finding the hidden gems 

30//Self Discovery 

in the sand 

40//Mackenzie Country 

guided walks 

50//Four Days in the Pureora Forest 

a lesson in having good gear 

60//Greenstone River 

by packraft 

82//Camping 

why camp in the cold? 

freedom camping 

92//Travel 

top hikes in vanuatu 

plus 

70. gear guides 

96. active adventure 

FOLLOW US ON 

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02//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#228

LET THE ADVENTURE BEGIN 

WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ

BEHIND THE COVER 

It was day three of a stellar week-long trip 

to Sinbad Wall in a remote part of western 

Fiordland. We had found a perch in a 

comfortable nook on the edge of one of the 

three Llawrenny Peaks, and settled in for 

lunch. We were roughly halfway to tomorrow’s 

objective - Terror Peak. The morning was 

spent lugging heavy packs up steepening 

grassy, then granite, slopes. 

For more on Sinbad and Terror Peak, see page 14 

From the left, Ben Grindle is stoked to have 

made it across Milford Sound without a life 

jacket, Camille Berthoux tries to smile through 

a cold she’s been fighting for days, Jimmy 

Finlayson looks energetic though would soon 

lie down for a siesta, Derek Cheng has clearly 

rushed into the shot after setting up the timer 

on the camera, and Sooji Clarkson shows off 

her alpine nutrition - peanut butter and dried 

mashed potato - while the middle Llawrenny 

Peak glistens behind us. 

EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER 

Steve Dickinson 

Mob: 027 577 5014 

steve@pacificmedia.co.nz 

ART DIRECTOR 

Lynne Dickinson 

design@pacificmedia.co.nz 

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PUBLISHERS 

NZ Adventure Magazine is published six times a year by: 

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A NEW LOOK? 

This is the 40th year anniversary for 

Adventure Magazine and it has gone 

through a lot of changes. A variety of 

different content focus, a reflection of 

what was acceptable and now what’s 

not. It has had a range of banner heads 

(the design of the title on the cover). You 

will have seen this issue has a new 

banner head. Well not really, we 

thought it would be good to be 

a little retro and bring back 

one of the older banner 

heads. This one is from 

the 90’s a combination 

of simplicity and 

subtleness. 

Looking back over the 

last 40 years there are 

some amazing changes, 

some issues carried 

adverts for cigarettes, fluffy 

leg warmers and orange coloured 

zinc. The first few issues in the 80’s 

were widely focused on a range of sport 

from swimming to sailing. As the years 

progressed and the cigarette ads became 

less, Adventure went through a series of 

different vibes, it became very ‘multisport’ 

focused for a while, then a lot of biking, 

before it went back to a more generic feel. 

Pacific Media has produced Adventure for 

the last twenty years (we actually took the 

reins with issue 100) and we have loved 

every moment. The adventure industry is 

great to work with everyone from those 

doing different activities to those 

who import the products, 

everyone is passionate and 

enthusiastic and of late 

incredibly supportive. 

Covid has put a 

lot of strain on the 

adventure community 

but the majority of 

those involved do it for 

the love, not the money 

and it makes you proud 

to be able to showcase 

New Zealand, the places, and 

the people. We have no idea what 

the next 40 years looks like, you can only 

guarantee it will change but Adventure 

Magazine and the people within its pages 

will still be there doing fun stuff. 

World Class Indoor Climbing 

First visit $25* then free for a week! 

Fantastic community, beginners 

welcome, boulder classes for all ages 

and abilities, inquire now. 

* Discounts for youths and own gear 

Student Mondays, entry $15 

www.northernrocks.co.nz 

@northernrocks.climbing 

Unit 17, 101-111 Diana Drive, 

Wairau Valley, Auckland | 09 278 2363 

“Northern Rocks is an indoor bouldering facility, we 

foster community, growth and positive experiences for 

people of all backgrounds, ages and abilities.”

E N G I N E E R E D 

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PACKRAFTING 

a beginners perspective 

By Jody Direen 

It's our first date in the outdoors. I'm doing my best 

to hide the near-crippling anxiety as we tramp 

our way up the side of a stunning yet seemingly 

sinister Westland river. You see, I like him, and 

the fact that he is brave enough to have paddled 

some of the gnarliest rivers in the world (in his 

kayak) and regarded as one of the safest 'bros' 

to be on the river with are attributes that attracted 

me to him in the first place. And now he wants to 

give me a look inside his world, from the safety 

of a packraft (of which I never knew existed until 

yesterday). I need to come to the party. Send help. 

From the edge of the river, the rapids sound far too 

loud for someone like me to encounter. Someone 

whose utmost fear has been strong-moving water 

ever since I was dumped by a freak ocean wave 

as a five-year-old, not knowing which way was up 

or down (for too long), until my father came to the 

rescue. That memory is the reason I've never been 

atop a motorless floatation device on a river until 

now. I'm minutes away from the put-in of a class II 

river that I will paddle on my own. I'm not ready to 

face my fear, but I never will be. It's time. 

I feel nauseous and weak with nerves as I unroll 

my raft onto the river stones and begin to inflate 

this foreign piece of equipment I somehow need 

to trust. How can something this light that rolls up 

to the size of a sleeping bag not get torn up by 

those rocks I'm inevitably going to crash into over 

the next hour? Amidst the emotional turmoil, I'm 

surprised at how the tiny electric pump inflates the 

boat in merely sixty seconds. I gain some comfort 

from seeing the inflated size of the boat in the 

flesh. Barny (Young) assures me they're stronger 

than they look. Maybe it won't be so bad as it 

does look stable. 

Barny kits me out in a dry-suit, lifejacket, helmet, 

throws me a paddle and gives me the safety brief. 

I pack my hiking bag into the boat (there is a T-Zip 

so you can store gear inside the pontoon). I place 

the boat onto the shallows of the river lip. My heart 

is pounding my hands are shaking. I question if I 

should even get in. Barny is already floating away 

in his overly desensitised-to-whitewater fashion, 

leaving me no choice but to commit. 

I take my first-ever stroke and immediately feel 

unqualified. It didn't position the boat where I 

thought it would. Panic rushes over me. I pull my 

mind together and take a second and third stroke 

and start to get the hang of how this boat behaves. 

At least on chill water, it seems un-flippable. 

As we near the top of the first rapid, which 

we checked on the walk-up, I have an inkling 

that even with zero experience, I have enough 

common sense and control that there's a good 

chance I'll get to where I need to go to keep myself 

safe and maybe even have some fun. If I don't line 

it up perfectly, I have some confidence it's stable 

enough to bounce me down anyway, without 

flipping (which means imminent death, to me, at 

this moment). 

"Remember to keep your raft pointed downstream, 

and if in doubt, paddle hard out, follow me," 

Barny's words of wisdom shouted over the torrent 

of crashing water as we approach the first rapid. 

A sharp dog-leg to the left with another river 

channel running into it pushing the current across 

to where you 'don't want to be' with numerous 

small-ish boulders to navigate. As a beginner, not 

complicated at all! 

"Remember to keep your raft pointed downstream, 

and if in doubt, paddle hard out, follow me," 

I muster up all the mind-power and courage I 

have and take on the challenge keeping my eyes 

on Barny. I use all my strength and stroke power, 

overcompensating, to ensure I keep on his tail. 

The rush of adrenaline hits as I paddle hard 

across-current, feeling the pull of the whitewash in 

different directions underneath me and doing my 

best to respond and correct the boat. I'm where I 

need to be. In the nick of time, I narrowly avoided 

the last boulder dropping down just to the left. 

"Oh my god, I did it," I felt a little bit like a rubber 

ducky in a washing machine, but I did it. I'm alive. 

I was in pure positive shock as the gushing water 

became an increasingly distant sound. 

Rob Hervey exploring the upper Hokitika 


At that moment, an intense feeling of achievement and 

excitement washed over me with the realisation that during a 

time I expected to be most-terrified, I felt free. 

"At that moment, an intense feeling of 

achievement and excitement washed over me 

with the realisation that during a time I expected 

to be most-terrified, I felt free." 

My first-ever rapid forced me into the most surreal in-themoment 

experience, so much so that momentarily, all 

despair had been wiped from my mind and dare I say it, I 

was now even a little bit excited for the next one. I realised 

how forgiving the packraft was. It could handle more than 

that without requiring any additional skill from me. It was 

more stable than I imagined. I began to let go and have a bit 

of fun with it as we continued down some easy I+ rapids. 

Now I get it. I get why some people live and breathe 

whitewater. It forces your senses alive because they have 

to be to give you the best possible chance of survival in 

situations that have the potential to result in death. White 

water is dangerous. Your response times are at an all-time 

high. Adrenaline takes you over, keeping you in flow with the 

river. How can it be that in that extreme environment, you 

can also be fearless? Is this one of the purest natural states 

of being available to humankind? You choose to make the 

river your friend because if you resist, it quickly becomes 

your foe. This philosophy crosses over into life; kayakers 

are some of the happiest, go-lucky, back-themselves people 

I know. They are masters at flowing with life. 

Two years since my first ever river trip, I've met many of 

Barny's whitewater buddies and unofficially conclude they 

all share these positive traits because they spend so much 

time in that graceful state the river beats into them. I believe 

it takes a unique type of human to paddle at the level Barny 

and his friends do. Packrafts give people like me, who will 

probably never jump into a white water kayak, an opportunity 

to get a taste of their experience. 

Packrafts are an innovative piece of adventure gear that has 

opened up an entirely new world of going deeper, exploring 

the stunning backcountry we have in New Zealand and 

offering a new way of getting to know myself. For this, I'm 

incredibly grateful. I could never have thrown myself into a 

grade II river for the first time (or many of the New Zealand 

adventures I've had since) if it wasn't for my trusty packraft. 

I've scraped down rocks, sticks and shallow rapids and not 

punctured my raft. They are incredibly durable, considering 

their weight. I also love the option of a self-bailing packraft 

as you are not trapped into the boat by a spray skirt. They 

are user-friendly and convenient, compared to their sister 

product, Kayaks. Kayaks are heavy, unstable and require 

significant training on flat water. 

Top left: Jody and Clarissa exploring Hooker lake ( one of NZ’s most popular tourist destinations from a new perspective ) 

Bottom left: Jody exploring a hidden gem in her backyard 

Top right: Barny Young exploring the upper reaches of the Waiho river- flowing directly out of Franz Josef Glacier. 

Right: From mild to wild the Westcoast has it all 


ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//11

The rest of my trip as a virgin-river-girl consisted of a 

portage around a grade III rapid that flowed by a fallen tree 

and a couple of other big rapids (well, my standard of 'big') 

that scared me. I completed the river - amazed at what I 

had achieved. Although I had convinced myself I was going 

to flip at some point, I didn't. 

It's no wonder packrafting is one of New Zealand's fastestgrowing 

adventure sports. People are now running class IV 

in them, pioneering first descents and using them to access 

remote backcountry biking, skiing, fishing and climbing 

zones. Carrying an animal out after a successful hunt just 

got a whole lot easier. Fastpacking just got faster, with 

floating out taking less time than walking. 

My personal favourite use of my packraft is adding a new 

dimension to hiking trips. Especially when the dreaded, 

long walk out (on the same track you came in on) is now 

replaced with a float out, giving you a new perspective. 

I find myself opting for hikes where that dimension is 

possible, noting how perfect New Zealand's backyard is for 

embracing this sport. There are endless options; they don't 

all have to be river-related. We take ours almost everywhere 

and explore alpine lakes, cross rivers (that would be 

otherwise dangerous on foot), cross lagoons to access 

different parts of New Zealand's coastline and use them as 

a base for fishing. We even took them to Fiji and explored 

coral reefs. They double as a comfy sleeping mat too! 

Barny loves being on the river and, I love hiking. As a 

couple, packrafting has allowed us to find a happy medium 

where we can go into the outdoors together and embrace 

"As a couple, packrafting has allowed us to find a 

happy medium where we can go into the outdoors 

together and embrace a double faceted adventure 

leaving us both recreationally satisfied." 

a double faceted adventure leaving us both recreationally 

satisfied. Even though what we do together on the river is 

less extreme (by miles) than what he is used to, he still gets 

his fix and enjoys showing me around his world, otherwise 

less achievable in a kayak. 

Life is too short to pass up the opportunity of having a 

packraft in your adventure kit. This beautiful invention has 

allowed me to have some of the most epic experiences ever 

and access places I never thought possible. They are worth 

their weight in gold. 

Above: Kayaker turned Packrafter Ryan Lucas being Dazzled by some Gorge-ous Westcoast scenery. 


HUNT, FISH, BIKE, WHITEWATER, 

HIKE, 

CAMP, TRAVEL | PACK RAFT 

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SINBAD, 

TERROR CREEK 

and the 11-day weather 

window in Fiordland 

By Derek Cheng 

The deluge hit in a sudden moment. 

I had been fairly calm—and reasonably 

dry—hundreds of metres up an overhanging 

rock face in a remote part of Fiordland. And 

then, like opening the door to a tsunami, I 

was drenched. 

My fingertips clung ever-tighter to small, 

moss-covered nubbins of rock, as the 

sheer shock of what was happening left me 

gasping and cussing in equal measure. 

And I thought of the camera and two lenses 

in my flimsy, lightweight pack. A fall might 

unleash a force strong enough to snap 

the thin pack straps, sending the camera 

tumbling towards certain demolition, were 

much smaller on top-rope. 

I had little option but to scrunch my face 

between my shoulder blades and weather 

the storm. 

“Welcome to Sinbad,” I thought. 



I had somehow wrangled my way into this 

Sinbad mission as the seventh wheel. Not 

your ordinary climbing misfits, it included 

many who were among the country’s 

strongest, or who’d been there before: 

Jimmy, Sam, Sooji, Ben, Camille and 

Josh. 

I’d only read stories about the legendary 

300m overhanging face at the head 

of Sinbad Gully. It was early season, 

but enthusiasm was high due to an 

unprecedented weather window. 

"His paddle was two singles held 

together with masking tape, but too 

much force simply spun the raft 

rather than propelling it forward... 

which made his estimated arrival 

time somewhere around 400 years." 

Our transport options to the river mouth 

at the base of the gully still left the trip 

in doubt until we were actually on our 

way. There was one sturdy double raft, 

one borrowed kayak, and a number of 

$20 Warehouse rafts that may or may 

not have floated all the way to the river 

mouth. 

But one should never underestimate how 

helpfully pathetic Ben can look. Seated in 

a raft that suited someone half his size, 

Ben pushed out into Deep Water Basin 

trailing a second pitiful-looking raft loaded 

with his pack. His paddle was two singles 

held together with masking tape, but too 

much force simply spun the raft rather 

than propelling it forward. He proceeded 

to employ a gentle flick on each side while 

holding his body as steady as possible, 

which made his estimated arrival time 

somewhere around 400 years. 

This all tugged the heart-strings of some 

giggling guys aboard a fishing vessel, 

who promptly offered us a lift. We 

accepted. Fifty metres from where the 

Sinbad River meets Milford Sound, we 

dropped our questionable rafts—loaded 

with our packs—off the back of their 

fishing boat, professed our eternal thanks, 

and dived into the pristine water. Soon we 

had escaped the onslaught of sandflies 

on the shore and were marching up the 

DOC track, which led to a dry river bed, 

a series of slabs, and then up a steep, 

densely-shrubbed spur. 

It was basically dark by the time we 

arrived at the rock bivvy, a few hundred 

metres from the base of the wall. After the 

arduous approach, it wasn’t surprising 

when everyone was dead to the world the 

following morning—except for Jimmy, who 

had already packed for a day of ropesoloing 

when I stirred from my slumber. 

We were soon at the base of Rainmaker 

(grade 23). Jimmy had already climbed 

these pitches and so left me to do 

the leading, and I happily obliged, 

linking pitches up a long corner and 

climbing straight up a crack through an 

overhanging bulge. 

The climbing was exhilarating enough, but 

the setting turned the dial up to sublime. 

There remained a considerable amount of 

snow in the top plateau in early January, 

which the sun melted into a curtain of 

falling water. With an overhanging wall, 

this leaves you with the impression of 

questing up a rock face hidden behind 

the veil of a waterfall. And with the sun 

out, any glance behind you is met with 

banners of rainbow colours. 

We made it about halfway up the wall 

before abseiling down. In the meantime, 

the others had approached the wall but 

the snowmelt had become too intense. 

The lesson had been learned, and the 

following morning we all started at an 

earlier hour. 

Jimmy, Sam and I headed up Rainmaker 

again with the intention of topping out. I 

followed their leads on the lower pitches, 

lugging up my camera and two lenses in 

my flimsy, lightweight pack. 

The water runoff from the snowmelt had 

reached epic proportions by the time we 

reached the upper pitches, but I hadn't 

anticipated having to cling on mosscovered 

edges while weathering a soulshuddering 

deluge. 

Previous Page: Sooji Clarkson reaches high on the upper pitches of Rainmaker (23), Sinbad Wall, amid rainbow splashes and a veil of water 

falling from the snowmelt above 

Above: Josh Cornah runs aground at near the mouth of Sinbad River, having kayaked across Milford Sound from Deep Water Basin. 


Top: From the top of Sinbad Wall, Jimmy Finlayson surveys the tops of Mitre Peak, Mt Tutoko and Mt Madeline behind it, and 

Llawrenny North on the right. 

Botttom: The crew awakes at our bivvy spot by Lake Terror. 



“The contents of my backpack cost more than any 

of the five vans I’ve owned,” I thought as I scratched 

around in vain for a decent hold. With the pump about to 

overwhelm, I squeezed all my insides together, grasped 

some crappy sloper, squeezed tighter, and then hucked 

high to what happened to be a reasonable hold. 

"“The contents of my backpack cost 

more than any of the five vans I’ve 

owned,” I thought as I scratched 

around in vain for a decent hold. 

With the pump about to overwhelm, 

I squeezed all my insides together, 

grasped some crappy sloper, 

squeezed tighter, and then hucked 

high to what happened to be a 

reasonable hold." 

Pulling over the top was like stepping through the gates 

of paradise. Soggy and damp, with weary fingers and 

forearms, I emerged from a shaded face to a flat, grassy 

ledge in the glorious, windless sunshine. Fears of my 

falling camera were forgotten as I gazed out at the 

Llawrenny Peaks, the spine of rock extending west of 

Mitre Peak, and the shy heads of Pembroke, Tutoko and 

Madeline. 

A short scramble led us to a plateau complete with a 

lake and perfect rock ledges, and some skinny-dipping 

and sun-soaking was in order before heading back down 

via a steep gully. 

The following morning, we shouldered heavy packs and 

headed up grassy slopes to the Llawrenny Peaks. The 

views were immense: countless peaks all around us 

and textured ridgelines leading southeast to Lake Ada 

and the Arthur Valley. Terror Peak, tomorrow’s objective, 

rose prominently on the southern ridgeline, gentle snow 

slopes hugging the edges of her base. 

Ben Grindle abseils down the top 

part of Sinbad Wall, a 300m-high 

overhanging face of granite in a 

remote part of Fiordland.

The sky the following dawn, as we awoke 

from our bivvy on the shores of Lake Terror, 

was speckled with candy floss-coloured 

wisps of cloud. The approach to Terror Peak 

was a straight-forward scramble up slabs 

and along a jagged ridge, followed by an 

abseil to sunny, north-facing slopes. 

Our two teams forged up neighbouring lines, 

ours starting up a rib of rock to a quartztopped 

pillar—Terrorfirma (21). The next 

pitch had some of the most unique rock I’d 

ever seen, a steep face of diagonal tiles 

of different shades of rosy pink. It was so 

unique that I paused mid-pitch to snap a 

photo, but the climbing was also superb; 

each reach was met with perfect finger 

slots. 

Meanwhile Sooji, more intrigued by a steep 

face to her right, headed off into virgin 

territory, eventually cutting across a face to 

an exposed perch. Our paths converged at 

the top. Another windless, perfect day. More 

views of the immense grandeur of glaciated 

Fiordland, and another reminder of our 

comparatively minuscule existence. 


Top: Jimmy Finlayson and Ben Grindle taking the easy way down towards Lake Terror, with Terror Peak beind it. 

Left: Sooji Clarkson heads towards an unclimbed face on Terror Peak. 

Bottom: A serene picnic spot for lunch, with Terror Peak on the left and two of the three Llawrenny Peaks on the right. 


We headed back to Lake Terror at our 

own paces. I reached the bivvy spot 

as howls of delight rang out from the 

direction of the lake. A rush towards them 

revealed a beaming Jimmy, seated on a 

solitary iceberg in the middle of the lake. 

“Bring something to sit on and to put 

your feet on,” he advised as I dived in. 

The water was, not unexpectedly, rather 

refreshing. 

"The brain can fire new neural 

networks when it experiences awe, 

but does it ever become depleted if 

there are so many such encounters in 

quick succession?" 

It was evening by the time we started 

back up towards Sinbad. The light 

wrapped us in a soft embrace as we 

climbed over the Llawrennys to a view of 

rocky ridges and, beyond them, bands of 

fluffy cloud shading the Tasman Sea. We 

hurtled and glissaded down snow slopes 

and, with tired legs, strolled up and down 

slabs until we reached the plateau at the 

top of Sinbad. 

The next morning found us sitting at the 

edge of the wall, wrapped in sleeping 

bags and awaiting the sun’s first kisses. 

Ben and Camille then abseiled down the 

top half of Rainmaker, while Jimmy, Sooji 

and I played on the top pitch of Dropzone 

(24, A1) - a steep arête and face in an 

exposed, magnificent position. It was with 

some resignation when, that evening, we 

abseiled to the valley for what we knew 

was one final sleep before leaving this 

wild, enchanted place. 

The week had been a series of brain 

explosions at the sheer momentousness 

of everything: the endless peaks and 

valleys as far as the eye can see to 

the ocean; the intricate patterns in the 

rock, including bands of quartz and 

diagonal pink tiles; glorious movement 

up an overhanging wall behind a water 

curtain amid splashes of refracted light; 

the laughs and howls of joy and iceberg 

annexation. The brain can fire new neural 

networks when it experiences awe, but 

does it ever become depleted if there 

are so many such encounters in quick 

succession? 

Disbelief at our weather fortunes 

continued the following morning with yet 

another clear sky. Jimmy took it upon 

himself to dry out the week’s worth of 

collective poo, and then wrapped it up— 

twice—before shielding it in a plastic 

container. 

At one point on the walk out, a distinctly 

scatological odour seeped out from 

Jimmy’s pack, prompting understandable 

alarm. A quick check revealed that the 

first seal had ruptured—hence the sound 

of sloshing—but the plastic shield had not 

yielded, which was good enough to keep 

going without having to revisit the whole 

enterprise. 

There remained the small matter of 

whether our rafts would deliver us all back 

to Deep Water Basin. Ben’s masking 

taped-paddle still meant he could barely 

create any forward momentum. Jimmy 

simply started backstroking his arms 

while holding a single paddle in each 

hand. This entailed lying on his back in 

the raft and putting his pack on top of him 

as he stroked, leaving him defenceless as 

sandflies ravaged his bare legs. 

Somehow, in a perfectly timed finale, we 

all made it back as the last light of day 

faded, capping a week of sunshine and 

nine days of no rain in Fiordland. 

The next day was also rainless, and, 

adhering to the unspoken rule about 

not resting when the sun is out, Sam 

and I climbed the 10-pitch route Pipe 

Dreams (21) on Moir’s Mate. But when 

the following day was also cloudless, we 

considered our appetites for adventure— 

and our brains’ capacity for new neural 

sparks—sufficiently satiated. 

In an effort to find a non-climbing activity 

worthy of the events of the previous 

week, we drove to Te Anau and ate a 

bucket of ice cream. 

Above: Jimmy Finlayson finds peace on a solitary iceberg in the middle of Lake Terror 


we ARE climbing 

John Palmer at Sunnyside, Wanaka 

Photo: Tom Hoyle 

For over thirty years Bivouac Outdoor has been proudly 100% New Zealand owned and committed to providing 

you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. It is the same gear we literally stake our 

lives on, because we are committed to adventure and we ARE climbing. 

Supporting Aotearoa's Backcountry Heritage 

STORES NATIONWIDE 

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EXPLORING THE 

BEATEN TRACKS 

finding the hidden gems 

Long time contributor and keen 

outdoor enthusiast, Vicki Knell, 

shares with us the secret to finding 

the hidden gems on some of NZ's 

well known tracks. 



Isthmus Peak 

Looking for an alternative to the 

Instagram famous Roys Peak, you 

can’t go past Isthmus Peak. Both are 

within an easy drive from Wanaka, 

and maybe the 30-minute extra drive 

means the Isthmus Peak track is 

slightly less travelled. 

Location: Lake Hawea, South 

Island 

Distance: 16km return via same 

track. 

Average walking time: 5 – 7 hours. 

Terrain: The track is a vertical climb to 

the peak at 1385m high. The trail offers 

stunning views of Lake Hawea for the 

duration of the ascent. Upon reaching 

the peak, you are rewarded with views 

of Lake Wanaka and the Southern Alps 

stretching as far as you can see. The trail 

is an advanced walking track, however 

we did come across people running it. 

Vic's tips: Either side of winter expect 

ice and snow. The appeal of this trail was 

that there were very few people on it, and 

we were rewarded with exceptional views 

for pretty much the whole hike. 

Track: Located off the western side 

of Lake Hawea. 

As with any altitude walking, make sure 

you are prepared with plenty of food, 

water and for sudden changes in weather. 

Previous Page: Isthmus Peak offers stunning views of Lake Hawea. Top: Footsteps leading to Isthmus Peak in the distance 

Insert: Greg on top of the world with Lake Wanaka in the background 


North West Circuit Rakiura 

If you are looking for more 

challenge and solitude to that 

offered by the 3 day Great Walk, 

located on Rakiura, the North- 

West Circuit is next level tramping. 

Rakiura is far enough from home 

to leave all worries behind, rich in 

history and cloaked in the flora and 

fauna of NZ as it was pre-humans 

– just waiting to be explored and 

rediscovered. 

Location: Rakiura/Stewart Island 

Distance: 125km loop track 

Average walking time: Allow 9 – 

11 days 

Track: This advanced tramp can 

be started from Oban. 

Terrain: Although steep, varied 

and muddy, muddy, muddy, 

the reward of this tramp is in 

its variety. Each day offered 

different challenges, but we 

were rewarded with sweeping 

views of the Southern Ocean, 

and surreal experiences seeing 

kiwi on the tracks during the 

day. On top of this, the huts are 

positioned in unique locations and 

were a welcome site after long 

and challenging days. Rakiura’s 

weather is unpredictable, with rain 

falling on about 275 days of the 

year. Strong westerly winds are 

frequent and mud is widespread, 

thick and often knee deep on the 

track. 

Vic's tips: Water taxi access can 

get you to the first couple of huts 

to save you road walking. You can 

cut a day off the end of the tramp 

by catching the water taxi from 

Fresh Water Arm. 

Depending on the time of year, you 

can find yourself completely alone 

on the track. We saw no-one for 

4 days, leaving us feeling like we 

were the only people on earth. 

Experience, good gear, and 

well-planned food is essential to 

complete this track, along with a 

heavy dose of resilience and a 

pocket full of jetplanes! 

Top: Bungaree Hut, an example of the stunning hut locations on this track. 

Inserts: Just before the long descent into East Ruggedy Hut / We made it, longest day to Big Hellfire Hut, mud, mud and more mud!

Travers/Sabine 

The Travers/Sabine is a circuit 

trail, with a variety of side trips 

along the way. Our initial intention 

was to complete the circuit, taking 

in a trip to Lake Angeles. However 

upon meeting a local tramper we 

followed his suggestion to take 

an alternative route via Hopeless 

Hut and Sunset Saddle. This less 

travelled route appealed to us 

because we got the opportunity to 

spend time above the tree line and 

enjoy stunning views. 

Location: Nelson Lakes 

Distance: Variable depending on 

trails chosen, however the circuit 

itself is 80km. 

Average walking time: 

To complete the circuit it is 

recommended 4 days minimum, 

but to fully enjoy the trail allow 6 – 

7 days. 

Track: The start of this track is in 

St Arnaud, 1 hour 30 minutes from 

Nelson or Blenheim. 

Terrain: A meandering trail starts 

along the edge of Lake Rotoiti 

and follows the Travers River up 

the valley to Poukirikiri/Travers 

Saddle. Every 45 minutes or so 

the track is punctuated by bridges, 

numerous stream crossing and 

endless spots where the bush 

opens into picture perfect glades. 

The closer we got to the tree line 

the more avalanche zone signs 

we came across, which was great 

motivation to keep up the pace. 

The most challenging section was 

from Hopeless Hut, over Sunset 

Saddle to Angeles Hut. This should 

only be undertaken if the weather 

is right and you are a confident 

hiker. 

Vic’s Tips: An absolute must for 

this trip is a visit to Angelus Hut for 

the stunning vista. 

This is such a beautiful area, if 

you have limited time there are 

possibilities for single overnight 

trips from St Arnaud, either walking 

or by water taxi. 

"Whether it's a challenging 

multi-day tramp or day 

trip, you can find solitude 

and the magesty of our 

beautiful outdoors. " 

28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#228 

Above: Campsite on the edge of Rotomaninitua / Lake Angelus 

Right: Ascending from Hopeless Hut to Sunset Saddle

SELF DISCOVERY 

in the sand 

By Cath Wallis 

Images by Leo Francis, Race International 

Cath Wallis is an Australian ultra-endurance athlete 

who has completed some of the world’s most 

iconic foot races – from the back of the field. Her 

passion is encouraging those who do not consider 

themselves “athletes” to follow their wildest 

adventure dreams… 


My feet slip with every step. Moving with the soft sand beneath. 

Struggling to gain traction and push forward. And yet I must. Force each 

step; push with the poles to achieve forward motion. This is the desert, 

and as much as it forces me back, I must resist. 

My first foray into desert foot events was in this same spot. The 

Australian Simpson Desert in 2017. A late comer to this sport at age 41, 

I had only recently discovered the joy of trail events, having completed 

a 100km single stage event in my hometown. I was looking for the next 

challenge and a one-week desert ultramarathon seemed perfect. It was 

as far away from my ‘normal’ life, working in an office, as you could get. 

Here, in a place 2000km from the nearest city, requiring two days travel 

just to get here, was a desert gateway town with only 100 residents, 

leading into one of the harshest deserts in the world. 


Lining up on that start line was the most 

terrifying experience of my life. Would I 

be able to cross this desert? Would I be 

worthy of this challenge? The event began 

with nearly all 100 residents there to see 

us off. A loop of the town to the cheers 

of the crowd and then into the desert. 

Crossing dune after dune, punctuated only 

by flat sections with ankle-breaking rocks 

known as gibber plain. The heat radiating 

from the sand as the sun rose higher, 

reaching over 40 degrees in the exposed 

terrain. Completing a marathon distance 

before crossing the stage finish and 

sleeping our first night under the stars, 

sharing a tent with two strangers who 

would later become friends. 

Desert running has this mystique 

around it. People imagine lithe young 

athletes moving gracefully across the 

sand at great speed. Men like Moroccan 

champion and seven-time Marathon des 

Sables winner Rachid El Morabity. And 

women like Canadian Isabelle Sauve or 

Swede Elisabet Barnes. And there are 

definitely those people out there. But 

the vast majority out here in the desert 

are ordinary people, doing something 

special. Walking is not shunned here, but 

welcomed. According to the 4 Deserts 

Series organisers, Racing the Planet, 

only around a third of entrants in 250km 

desert ultramarathons run the entire event. 

Another third alternate between running 

and walking, and a full third walk the 

distance. 

For me, I came to this sport almost by 

accident. Middle aged and totally nonathletic, 

I was looking for a sport that could 

bring great personal reward despite more 

commitment than skill, and in the trail 

running community I found my place. A sport 

where, other than a tiny elite, everyone is 

competing against themselves and who 

genuinely desire to see others succeed. 

Where in that moment when you feel 

you cannot take one more step, another 

competitor will walk with you and urge you 

forward. And on another day, in another 

moment, you will do the same for them. 

So we continued on - with hues of red 

and orange in the sand like fire at sunset. 

Gradually my mind settled from fear 

to awe. The vastness of the space. An 

ancient landscape, the country of the 

Wangkangurru Yarluyandi people, exuding 

an aura of calm. A timeless place in which 

petty human concerns are reduced to 

insignificance. 

While each person comes here for a 

different reason, crossing this desert 

generates deep and long-lasting bonds. 

We each take on our own race, against 

our own time and meeting our own 

demons in the process. And yet, there is 

a shared experience here. Of hardship, 

of the harsh beauty of this place. Shared 

pain, shared jokes, shared joy. I knew 

no one as I crossed the start line. By 

the end of a week we are friends for 

life. Sixty competitors, now firm friends, 

making their way across the last section 

of desert towards the finish line. At a pub. 

A cold beer passed to each as we finish 

our desert adventure. The quintessential 

outback Australian experience. 

After my first foray into desert trail events, 

I was hooked. I discovered there are 

desert ultramarathon options across the 

world and my list of dream events grew 

longer and longer. I headed to the Oman 

Desert Marathon and Race to the Wreck 

in Namibia, before COVID sent me back 

home to the Australian desert. 

Deserts have this reputation of being 

empty places. Of vast nothingness. 

But they are far from empty. In Oman, 

I shared the desert with camels and 

lizards. In Namibia with ostrich and zebra 


and leopard, and tiny beetles that followed my foot 

placement at every step. The sand moves endlessly, 

shifting the ripples on the surface, erasing any record of 

human endeavour. 

I think only 40% of desert running is physical. The rest 

is mental. The heat (or the cold at night), the sand, the 

distance – it can drain you quickly and if your mind is 

not in the right place, it can beat you. When you prepare 

for one of these events, you need to get ready for the 

moment that your mind tells you that you cannot go on. 

And you need to practice telling your mind to shut up. 

For me, in those moments when it all seems too much, 

too hot, too far - I stop. I stop and take a long look 

around me. Focusing on the landscape. The shape 

of the dunes, the movement of lizards or insects. The 

vast sky above me. And how grateful I am to have 

the opportunity to be in such a special place. And that 

gratitude resets my mind. And I gulp some water, grab 

my poles, and head off again across the sand. 

What kind of people come here to run or walk in the 

desert? People seeking that epiphany moment, that 

opportunity to find what is important to them. To put 

themselves to a physical and mental test. That breaks 

down their fears and their ego, and that leaves them at 

peace with themselves. 

Desert events often have very special endings. At the 

end of my crossing of the Namib desert, on Rat Race 

International’s “Race to the Wreck”, you reach a point 

where the sea used to be. Shells and whale bones jut 

out of the former seabed. And then, as you move further 

west, the wreck comes into sight. The Eduard Bohlen, 

twisted metal rusting in place, a full kilometre now from 

the sea. You run down past the wreck to cross the finish 

line, to receive your medal, and feast on fresh Walvis 

Bay oysters and pink champagne. 

I would love everyone to have a desert foot event 

experience. And so, when I found myself headed once 

more to the Simpson, as the event Ambassador for 

the Simpson Desert Ultra, I wanted to bring a team. 

Eighteen women from around Australia answered a call 

to step out of their comfort zone and come with me to 

the desert for the first time. They are scientists, and art 

therapists and teachers. Small business owners and 

nurses, and mums. Some literally starting from “couch 

to ultra”. Others thinking Parkrun was their limit, but now 

testing themselves across as many as 100km of sand in 

a single stage. 

And now we make our way across the desert. Through 

sand, and gibber and clay pan. In heat and cold. It 

is brutal and it is beautiful. There is no certainty in 

finishing, but there is the knowledge that our lives will be 

forever changed by this place. 

For more about Cath’s adventures in the desert, head to 

www.DiscoverInteresting.com 


TAKING THE 

DROP 

Tauranga Taupo Falls 

Words by George Snook images by Mike Dawson 

After two hours hiking with our kayaks on our backs, the crew and I heard the first 

sounds of the 80 foot, 24 meter high Tauranga Taupo Falls beckoning us down into its 

gorge. We arrive at the bottom of the falls and spend the next 30 minutes admiring the 

falls and surroundings, we eat our not so fresh delicacies that we had purchased at 

the bakery that morning and attempt to solve the puzzle of this waterfall. Checking the 

landing and take off, deciding which stroke will be our last, where our boat will be placed 

and at which angle. We spent an hour scouting the beast, looking for the safest passage 

down. Once we have planned out our optimal descent and put safety precautions in 

place for all the possible outcomes, it's time to make the call. 

I can visualize my line, I am confident in my ability and my team. I made the call to go 

first. With the help from my team we managed to hoist my kayak up a 100 foot vectical 

bank and then lower me back down 20 feet onto the top of the waterfall. Before I get into 

my kayak I visualize my line one last time and try to calm myself and my mind to make 

sure that my focus is solely on the task at hand. While entering my kayak and the water 

I find myself stranded with one leg in my kayak and one leg on the rocks, the only thing 

holding me from floating away and off the waterfall. Before my mind had enough time to 

tell my body to move, I was up to my arms in water. Holding on to the rocks with one arm 

and my boat with the other. I pull myself up the bank and climb into my kayak safely. I 

spend the next minute refocusing and calming my mind from the disturbance moments 

before. 

It's time. I sound my whistle to let the team know that within the next 30 seconds I will 

appear at the top of the waterfall, slip through the tight squeeze of the gorge walls and 

begin the fall. I enter the main flow of the river, line up the top of the waterfall, place my 

last stroke and fall. 



ESCAPE FROM 

MT WHITCOMBE 

a survivors story 

This article was written for the Federated Mountain Clubs 

of NZ (FMC) and published in the Accidents Column for the 

November 2010 issue of their Backcountry magazine. 

FMC is a non-profit organisation formed in 1931, which 

advocates for the wise management of outdoor recreation and 

the environments it takes place in. You can support FMC by 

joining up online: www.fmc.org.nz/join 

The Backcountry Accidents Column, in one form or another, 

has been a feature of FMC publications since 1938. To 

subscribe to the print version of their magazine, please visit 

www.fmc.org.nz/aboutbackcountry. 

Area: Mt Whitcombe, central Southern Alps 

Activity: Trans-alpine mountaineering 

Survivors: Four experienced New Zealanders 

Date of Incident: February 2002 

Summary: A fit, experienced, well-equipped 

party of four began a trans-alpine trip of the 

Lord Range commencing with a summit climb 

of Mt Whitcombe from the Evans Valley. 

They followed an intricate rock and glacial 

route to a high alpine camp on Mt Whitcombe’s 

northwestern slopes, in preparation for a 

summit attempt. However, over the next four 

days a weather bomb hit. Extreme conditions 

dumped over one metre of snow and caused 

significant, near irretrievable damage to the 

alpine tents. 

At sea level on the West Coast, the same 

conditions also caused significant havoc 

including reports of a dog that was picked up 

by a twister in Hokitika and deposited several 

hundred metres away. 

On day four, with no let-up in the conditions, 

the party retreated in white out conditions back 

down their ascent route to the Evans Valley. 


Review by Jonathan Kennet 

Weather: The mountains of New 

Zealand are subject to weather 

extremes which are not always 

accurately predicted. Significant 

amounts of precipitation can fall in short 

periods causing snow at any time of 

year, rapidly rising rivers, avalanches 

and accelerated snow melt. Near winter 

conditions can prevail in any season as 

a result. 

Mount Whitcome was named after John Henry Whitcombe who was a surveyor for the 

Canterbury Provincial Council in 1862. Whitcombe, along with Jacob Lauper a Swiss 

Guide, were tasked with investigating a pass at the Rakaia headwaters 4.6 kilometres 

(2.9 mi) east of the mountain. During this expedition, in which the pair were ill-prepared, 

Whitcombe was swept into the Taramakau River and drowned. This tragic event resulted 

in Julius von Haast naming the pass along with the mountain, Mount Whitcombe 

Jonathan Kennett recalls his narrow getaway off Mt Whitcombe with 

Johnny Mulheron, Geoff Spearpoint and Eric Duggan. 

“Are we ready?” Geoff shouted. “Yes.” “Right. Let’s go!” And in unison the four of 

us sprang into the worst storm of my life. 

It was either: jump into the bergschrund next to our precarious campsite ledge, 

and freeze; or escape to more sheltered ground, lower down. The second 

option involved retracing our steps through shitty rock bluffs and around deep 

crevasses – difficult enough in fine weather. I’d spent hours lying in the pit 

anxiously tossing the two options back and forth, trying to ascertain which gave 

the better chance of survival. The team consensus was for escape. Definitely 

escape. 

Packing the tents took about one minute. Thick rods of ice coated the guy 

ropes. We snapped the ropes, hastily pushed out the poles and stuffed the tents 

into our packs. Leaving the guy ropes sticking out of the ground our campsite 

looked like the scene of an alien abduction. 

At the edge of the ledge, we furiously dug through fresh snow to find good 

abseil anchors. “Just like old times,” yelled Johnny. And I smiled, because it 

reminded me, just when I needed reminding, that we knew the drill, and that 

gave me enough confidence to relax and enjoy the buzz of climbing – despite 

the awesome maelstrom around us. 

Geoff went first: to go down and set up a fixed rope around a narrow ledge. 

Beyond that we negotiated a crevasse maze, in whiteout. Bowed heads and 

swirling snow. That’s when the GPs helped, but only once we set the right 

function! Then came the bluffs, where my main worry was laid to rest – the 

sequence of northerly rain closely followed by a southerly blast had frozen all 

the loose rocks solidly together. solid rock in the southern Alps – what a rare 

treat. 

The final abseil was huge. We tied two ropes together, tossed them down into 

the mist, and wondered if they would reach the bottom. At the top, the main 

anchor was hardly bomb- proof. I tried to guess who was the heaviest – the 

‘load tester’ in the group. Hard to say: could be Eric; could be Johnny. Then 

down we went, one carefully after the other. And it held. 

The joy and relief upon regrouping at the bottom was like a drug. We’d dropped 

into a sheltered valley that afforded safe(ish) travel all the way down to smyth 

Hut four or five hours away. Later that afternoon, as we passed one of our 

earlier campsites, I wondered what would have happened had we taken a 

mountain radio, rather than just an EPIRB to save weight. Perhaps, with daily 

weather forecasts we would not have climbed up into that storm on the third day 

of our eight-day trip. Travelling light poses a risk. The longer the trip, the bigger 

the risk. sure, it was a buzz, but I hope to never push it that far again. 

Heuristic Traps: can contribute to 

experienced parties pushing the limits 

more than they would normally do as 

individuals: 

• The parties perceive their experience 

is greater than the sum of each of the 

individuals. 

• Experienced groups can be more 

lackadaisical in the trip planning, 

resulting in gear being left behind or 

duplication of equipment. 

• Consensual leadership can result in 

casual decisions with no single person 

taking ultimate responsibility. 

• These factors have no bearing 

whatsoever on the objective danger a 

party faces. 

Alpine Camps: should be set up with 

due care, taking into consideration 

objective dangers such as exposure to 

rock or ice fall, flood routes, lightning 

strikes and escape routes. Tents need 

to be secured for the worst conditions 

even if pitched during calm weather. 

This includes building rock walls (take 

these down when you depart to leave 

no trace). Securing a camp in calm 

conditions is much easier than doing 

so in a storm and a poorly secured tent 

faces greater risk of damage. Always 

consider a back-up shelter, whether this 

is a nearby rock biv or schrund. Have 

a snow cave started and shovels at the 

ready in preparation for the worst. 

Storms can destroy tents so be 

prepared for escape. All in this party 

were fully clothed and packed, ready 

for imminent evacuation. 

Escape Routes need to form part of 

your trip planning, enabling at least one 

option in the event of an incident. In this 

case, because of the intricate route, the 

party escaped by retracing their steps. 

Strong navigation skills and use of 

the ‘track-back’ function of a GPS unit 

facilitated their retreat. 

Teamwork: is vital in extreme 

conditions where delay results in 

increased risk of hypothermia. Each 

party member worked to their strength 

in the different areas such as navigation 

and rigging ropes. Teamwork resulted 

in minimal delays. 


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Adventure Magazine 

supporting local 

business 


MACKENZIE 

COUNTRY 

Known for its diverse rugged landscapes, challenging alpine 

terrain, contrasting golden grasslands and vivid turquoise blue 

lakes, the Mackenzie is often overlooked by its neighbouring 

regions Westland and Central Otago when it comes to 

accessible tramping. The region is a hot spot for alpine club 

members and experienced climbers, but there’s so much 

more to this stunning part of the country than just technical 

mountaineering. 

We sat down with local Mackenzie guides Cristina Simpkins 

(Tekapo Adventures) and Elke Braun-Elwert (Alpine Recreation) 

to chat about their favourite guided walks in the region, and 

what makes living in this part of world so remarkable.

ELKE BRAUN-ELWERT, ALPINE RECREATION 

Born in Christchurch, Elke spent more of her childhood in Lake 

Tekapo where her father was a mountain guide. She learnt to ski 

at two and a half on the back lawn under the watchful eye of her 

eager dad. She’s climbed and skied throughout the New Zealand 

alps for most of her life, and has spent numerous seasons ski 

instructing in Switzerland, and has ski guided in Japan and 

climbed in Peru. 

Her parents founded Alpine Recreation together in 1981. They 

were the first outdoor adventure company in New Zealand to 

offer ski touring using cross-country and telemark skis. Over the 

years they have won numerous tourism awards for eco-tourism, 

quality and natural heritage. 

With that type of upbringing, naturally Elke's whole life has 

revolved around the outdoors. She now lives in the region with 

her family where she is lucky to be able to introduce people to 

the mountains she loves and grew up in. 

TEKAPO TREK 

(2 OR 3 DAYS) 

Enjoy a sense of isolation and freedom 

as you get "above it all" in the Two 

Thumb Range, Te Kahui Kaupeka 

Conservation Park. 

The 2 or 3-day Tekapo Trek takes 

place in the foothills of the Southern 

Alps, to the east of the Main Divide, 

where both weather and landscape are 

gentler. A private hut is used, reached 

after 3 hours hike up from the carpark, 

at the head of Lake Tekapo. We climb 

Beuzenberg Peak, 2073m, on Day 2 

and enjoy grand views all along “Snake 

Ridge” out over the Mackenzie Basin 

and Lake Tekapo, and at the same time 

get an impressive view of the main 

peaks of the Southern Alps, including 

the East Face of Aoraki/Mount Cook 

and Mount Tasman. 

The evening light of the Mackenzie High 

Country as it bathes golden tussock, 

snow-capped peaks and the turquoise 

of Lake Tekapo is pure magic. The 

climb of a 2070m peak is a rewarding 

adventure, especially when topped 

off by the return to a cosy mountain 

hut, where you can savour the sun 

set, while sipping a pre-dinner drink. 

Evening entertainment is provided by 

a star-studded sky - one of the clearest 

and darkest skies in the southern 

hemisphere. 

This trek is suitable for families,or those 

relatively new to tramping, or older 

trampers, wanting to take advantage 

of lighter packs, a bookable bunk and 

the benefits of a knowledgeable guide, 

who can take care of everything from 

equipment, safety back-up, logistics 

to cooking. It takes 6 hours to hike the 

12km return from the hut at 1300m, 

along the curving Snake Ridge up to 

Beuzenberg Peak, the highest point 

of the Te Araroa Trail. For younger 

children this day can be shortened, 

because you still get great views all the 

way along Snake Ridge, without having 

to go all the way to the top. 

Those who only have two days to 

spare, and have the energy, can opt to 

come back out to Tekapo after the peak 

climb on Day 2. Those who can afford 

the time can relax and enjoy a second 

night at 1300m, before returning to 

civilisation about 1pm on Day 3. 

THE TEKAPO TREK: 

Duration: 2 or 3 Days 

Operates: November - April 

Abilities: see Alpine Recreation 

website for fitness and experience 

requirements 

Info: www.alpinerecreation.com

AORAKI MT COOK TREK 

(2 DAYS) 

Ever wanted to follow in Sir Edmund 

Hillary’s footsteps and climb up high, 

close to Aoraki? If you’re sure-footed 

and fit now’s your chance to have an 

awe-inspiring mountain experience. 

The Aoraki Mount Cook Trek is a 

challenging 2 day trek up to the 

private Caroline Hut on the Ball Ridge, 

straight opposite the awesome 2000m 

high Caroline Face of Aoraki Mount 

Cook. 

Day 1 you climb 850m through rugged 

terrain above the Tasman Glacier 

up to Caroline Hut. Day 2 you will 

descend back into the Tasman Valley. 

Trekking time will be about 6-7 hours 

each day. You need to be OK with 

negotiating some steep, rugged and 

partially untracked mountain terrain. 

This trek will give you a rewarding 

high mountain experience of this 

beautiful area. Caroline Hut is in a 

stunning location, straight opposite 

the awesome Caroline Face of 

Aoraki, New Zealand's highest ice 

face (2000m high). It is the only 

concessionaire-owned hut in Aoraki/Mt 

Cook National Park and provides one 

of the few opportunities for foot access 

to a high-alpine, bookable hut in this 

mecca of the Southern Alps. 

THE AORAKI MT COOK TREK: 

Duration: 1 Night, 2 Days 

Operates: Mid-November – end April. In winter it becomes a very 

challenging snowshoeing trip. 

Abilities: Suited for those with previous tramping experience. 

Special notes: The guide will look after route-finding, ensure you are 

properly equipped and cook dinner for you. Non-perishable food is 

already at the hut, as are sleeping bags and firewood. Your packs will 

contain just your own clothes and some fresh items to take to the hut. 

Info: www.alpinerecreation.com

CRISTINA SIMPKINS, TEKAPO ADVENTURES 

Cristina and her partner Ben run Tekapo Adventures, a 

small family-owned guiding business specialising in remote 

backcountry hiking, mountain biking and 4WD experiences. They 

live in the region – Cristina is Canadian and Ben is Kiwi. They’ve 

spent over 15 years together living and breathing wilderness 

adventures in the Southern Alps and British Columbia. 

When it comes to the Mackenzie, they were attracted to the vast, 

wide-open spaces, and BIG backcountry, often wondering what 

lies within those snowy peaks and hidden alpine valleys that 

always look so mystical from the shores of Lake Tekapo. “I am 

in awe every day of our surrounds – the Mackenzie is one of the 

few places in the world where photos don’t do the region justice.” 

Many of the valleys around where they live are hard to 

access, or you need to go through private land which can 

make it challenging for visitors to really experience the true 

‘legendary Mackenzie’. Over the years they’ve established great 

relationships with high country station landowners, allowing 

them to offer guided walking experiences to some of the region’s 

remote, private backcountry. 

MACKENZIE ALPINE HIKING 

TOUR (2 NIGHTS, 3 DAYS) 

A new hut to hut hiking experience on Glenmore Station's 

private high country spans over 50,000 acres and neighbours 

Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park. This hike is everything you 

think of when you think of the unique Mackenzie landscapes: 

mountainous backcountry, rock steep scree slipes, U-shaped 

valleys carved by glaciation, waterfalls, glaciers, moraines, 

tussock-clad terraces and braided river systems. The 

environment is also home to some of New Zealand’s most 

endangered nesting birds. 

The tour starts with a remote 4WD journey up one of the braided 

river valleys to the western shores of Tekapo, known as The 

Cass. It feels almost Himalayan-like as you venture deep into the 

headwaters of the Cass River. Giant moraine walls with multicoloured 

scree and large alluvial fans span across the walls of the 

valley. From here you can see the impressive Leibig Range which 

sits just east to the Southern Alps. The glaciers, unique geology 

and ecology that formed in this part of New Zealand are simply 

remarkable. 

It’s not unusual to come across a herd of merino meandering 

through the tranquil blue river waters – their graceful movements 

seem at odds with the harsh landscapes. 

The tour stops to explore old Boundary Keepers Huts and you 

learn about the rich history of the early pioneers that farmed 

in this unforgiving part of the country. There’s no better way to 

describe it than iconic ‘New Zealand’. 

The 4WD journey ends approximately an hour away from the 

historical Memorial Hut where the tramp begins along the valley 

floor. Crossing icy waters of the Cass, you ascent to the first hut 

for the night: Lady Emily. With a steep but inspiring hike through 

tussock backcountry and rolling streams you arrive at the cute 

and cosy new 8 bunk hut. 

After a home-cooked venison stew and a wine (or two) enjoy 

the night skies and the milky way in the world’s largest dark sky 

reserve. 


The next day you travel up and over a saddle to find New Zealand’s 

highest whiskey bar. Whiskey Hut is perched at 2200m and the 2 bunk 

red hut is filled with some of the world’s finest whisky – but how can this 

be true? #nowhereelseinNZ. 

From here you head along a broad ridge overlooking the remote Jollie 

Valley where you can see the peaks of The Main Divide. The rocky 

ridge and scree run down to Tin Hut stream where you can take your 

boots off to cool in the fresh waters that cascade down off nearby 

glaciers and peaks. You are surrounded by grandiose mountains 

and herds of Himalayan Tahr. The night is spent at the incredibly 

comfortable Falcons Nest Hut, with a cosy log burner and authentic 

high country feel. 

After a solid breakfast and coffee, you’ll journey down the Tin Hut 

Stream to the final leg of the hike with a stop in for lunch in a nearby 

Oasis by the stream. The final descent into the Cass Valley has that 

home stretch vibe as we see the familiar sights of the braided river 

before a well-earned cold beer awaits. 

THE MACKENZIE ALPINE 

HIKING TOUR 

Duration: 2 Nights / 3 Days 

Starts: Lake Tekapo 

Operates: December- May annually. 

Special notes: March & April / 

incredible fall light & colours 

Abilities: moderate fitness levels & 

experienced hikers. 

Info: www.tekapoadventures.com 


MACKENZIE ALPINE OVERNIGHT 

(1 NIGHT, 2 DAYS) 

If you're short on time but would still like a taste of the 

Mackenzie Alpine Hiking Tour, you will love this shorter 

tramping trip to O’Leary’s Hut at Glenmore Station. Situated 

at 1700m this 8 bunk idyllic red hut is the newest addition to 

the station’s collection of private alpine huts. 

Start your journey on the shores of Tekapo, and set off 

up the Cass Valley for a breath-taking scenic 4wd tour to 

Waterfall Hut, dating back to 1916. The trek starts by climbing 

up a short and steep section of the side of a cascading 

waterfall gorge, before easing off to the start of a glacial 

carved hanging valley. From here it’s a pleasant day in the 

Mackenzie alpine backcountry, as the trek meanders through 

a rippling stream. Spaniards and tussocks line the route, 

gradually working its way up through an old glacial moraine 

where O’Leary Hut is perched amongst impressive peaks. 

Located just below the rugged Hells Gate mountain range, 

the words ‘awe-inspiring’ are top of mind. 

THE MACKENZIE ALPINE 

OVERNIGHT HIKE: 

Duration: 1 Night, 2 Days 

Starts: Lake Tekapo 

Operates: November - May 

Abilities: Suited for moderate fitness 

levels & experienced hikers 

Info: www.tekapoadventures.com 

The location of the hut makes a great base to explore the 

outstanding scenery and you can do several walks in one 

day. A trip up to the Joseph Ridge offers stunning views of 

Aoraki/Mount Cook and surrounding countryside, and those 

after a gentler hike will enjoy the walk from the valley floor to 

the hut. At night you’ll enjoy the best naked eye stargazing in 

the region, in the world’s largest dark sky reserve. 

We really do live (and work) in paradise. 



posure 

X 

Adrien Petit, is 34 years old, from a 

small village near Annecy, France. 

He had the chance to grow up 

between lakes and mountains and 

this exceptional environment which 

naturally immersed him in mountain 

and extreme sports from the youngest 

age. He is now a finalist in the Best of 

Instagram by Lenovo. 

His image will now go through to the 

prestigious global photo contest, Red 

Bull Illume Image Quest. 

Adrien's winning photo features Antoine 

Force rolling down an empty green 

riverbed. 

Photographer: Adrien Petit, @petio.74 

Athlete: Antoine Force 

Location: Le Chéran, Haute-Savoie 

(74), France 


50//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#228 

East from the summit of Mt Prongia

FOUR DAYS IN 

THE PUREORA 

FOREST 

A lesson in having good gear 

By Eric Skilling 

This trip promised much and delivered 

plenty more, mostly good, but I would 

also be given a few sobering lessons. 

As a first-time visitor to Pureora Forest 

west of Lake Taupo, I was hoping to 

see one of those giant podocarps that 

were mere seedlings back in the 13th 

century, now said to be over 50 metres 

high. As always, I was also looking 

forward to the company of fellow 

trampers and a good workout. What 

better way could there be to achieve all 

of this than four days walking and living 

in one the largest remaining podocarp 

forests. 

Visiting the forest is a privilege 

everyone should enjoy. Within an 

hour of starting out we were straining 

our necks as we peered up into the 

canopy, debating whether we were 

looking up at a magnificent matai, miro, 

rimu or totara. The truth is the canopy 

was so high above us we couldn’t 

see the leaves which made it very 

difficult for us amateurs to confidently 

call any species. At night we had the 

pleasure of pitching tents in some of 

the most spectacular bush campsites 

anywhere. A perfect setting for some 

unique shared experiences and great 

memories. 

However, ‘always be careful what you 

wish for’, as the adage goes, and I 

would discover the challenge of a good 

workout got a lot more daunting for 

me when I had near trip-ending gear 

failure, made worse by carrying more 

than I needed and then losing a serious 

amount of energy stores to a daring 

rodent. 


"Lesson Two: Dehydrated food has improved out of 

sight and is a lot more practical than frozen meals." 

Just after midday we set off for the one-hour walk up the 

wide gravelled path and boardwalks to the top of Mt Pureora 

(1,165m). Within the first 100 metres one of the braces holding 

the straps to my quarter-century old pack snapped. I was 

fortunate enough to be at the back of the group, saving me 

becoming the brunt of some serious banter for years to come. 

Even more fortunately the pack was a vintage canvas Macpac. 

I dropped the pack fearing the worst, but quickly worked out the 

support straps at the top of the pack were holding, so while the 

pack would begin to slide down my back, the straps looked very 

capable of holding up for several days. 

A hundred metres further on, the second brace snapped. This 

was getting serious. I tightened the top straps and decided I 

would carry on and see how the packed coped during the walk 

up to the summit and reassess once we reached the top. I was 

resigned to the fact that there was the real possibility that my 

trip was going to end soon. 

An hour or so later we emerged from the still coolness of the 

forest into the sub-alpine scrub on the summit, with views of 

the central plateau and Lake Taupo stretching out to the east 

and south but the promised view of Mt Taranaki was lost in the 

summer haze. I indulged myself with the vista for a minute or 

so and then turned my mind to other things. I dropped my pack. 

The straps were holding well with no signs of any stress. The 

base of the two straps were solidly attached so no worries there. 

I was confident that it would hold together for more than 4 days, 

and if not, my repair kit had enough to carry me through. Lesson 

one: Buy good gear. Tick. 

There was one very relieved tramper in the group as we headed 

south off the summit on the way to Bog Inn hut, a couple of 

hours away. The short track off the summit is one of several in 

the forest that are no longer maintained by DOC. Waist-high 

scrub had overgrown most of the eroded, rutted track, so it was 

a pleasure to pop out onto the valley floor and the relatively 

expansive Timber Trail. Gravity had already begun its tireless 

work on my pack, as it began to sag down my back. I consoled 

myself that I had two full meals to empty out before the start of 

the next day’s journey. 

Bog Inn hut is picturesquely surrounded by ‘younger’ forest – 

closer to a century old, with few of the 800-year-old statesmen 

we had seen on the other side of Mt Pureora. Nevertheless, the 

site is so uniquely peaceful. The silence was quickly broken with 

the sound of tent poles clicking into place and sleeping mats 

inflating. We then converged on the table outside the hut for 

dinner and a serious bout of banter. I gratefully pulled out the 

steak and mustard casserole I had prepared and frozen the day 

before, grateful twice over -this was a great meal to have on the 

first night and secondly, I knew my pack would be about 1kg 

lighter tomorrow. Lesson two: Dehydrated food has improved 

out of sight and is a lot more practical than frozen meals. It was 

a real pleasure to have spent a night at this place. 

Day two was the challenge I was looking forward to taking on. 

Made a little more difficult for me as my pack slowly slid further 

and further down my back until I could feel the heat of a rash 

building up on my behind. No sympathy necessary, this was 

mostly self-inflicted. 

We averaged about 2 kilometres an hour on the track to 

Waihaha hut. Our progress limited by the track itself. The path 

was overgrown in many places so even with the help of wellplaced 

tree-markers we still found ourselves back-tracking 

several times. There are also a couple of steep gullies with 

loose footing underneath that could pose a serious challenge 

in winter. But this was summer, with lots of daylight hours, and 

we were led by experienced and very capable leaders, so we 

were never under any time pressures. Conditions were perfect 

for walking – the thick forest with its dense canopy kept us cool, 

and with little serious rain in the last few weeks the ground 

was firm underfoot except for the few gullies towards the end 

of the track. There was plenty of variety in plant life to enjoy as 

the bush changed from tall ancient podocarps to the younger 

regenerating forest and ferns. The streams were mostly dry or 

almost stagnant as we had expected, but we had stocked up 

with water at Bog Inn. 

Personally, day two was the day I gradually came to realise 

I seemed to have one of the heaviest packs in the group. 

With gravity now turning my pack into a bag dangling off my 

shoulders, I was forced to lean further forward to act as a 

counterweight. It must have looked odd, and I was using up 

some serious calories. Luckily, just as I said to myself “I am 

over this” I found yourself staring at the Waihaha hut, peacefully 

settled in a clearing ringed by thick bush. Lesson three: If you 

take dehy food you don’t need to take those heavy stainlesssteel 

pots and cooker. Stick to a light, efficient Jetboil. 

Tent site for the next two nights would be alongside the river. 

Stunning. 

About that rodent encounter? My go-too food is cheese. I carry 

enough cheese for daily lunches plus enough for 2 emergency 

meals and some to add to any dinners that need spicing up. 

Clockwise from top left: The team about to set off / Map of our tramp / Campsite Bog Inn / Story telling at the end of day one 

/ Erosion Waihaha River Day 4 / Towering podocarps lined the track / Our leader taking a break on day 3 / Waihaha Track 

disappearing on day 2 / Encountrers with bush lawyer on the Wihaha track 


175.5 175.6 175.7 175.8 175.9 176.0 176.1 

175.5 175.6 175.7 175.8 175.9 176.0 176.1 

Pureora Trip Waitangi 6 - 9 Feb 2020 

-39.05 

-39.00 

-38.95 

-38.90 

-38.85 

-38.80 

-38.75 

-38.70 

-38.65 

-38.60 

-38.55 

-38.50 

-38.45 

-38.40 

Waihaha Hut 

Bog Inn Hut 

First night - Kakaho Campsite 

-38.40 -38.45 -38.50 -38.55 -38.60 -38.65 -38.70 -38.75 -38.80 -38.85 -38.90 -38.95 -39.00 -39.05 

MN 

11/21/19 

20.8°E 

10 0 10 KM 

20 

5 0 5 10 MILES 15 

Scale 1:225383 Datum WGS84 

1,195 m 

300 m 

20.0 km40.0 km60.0 km80.0 km 


"Lesson four. If you see rat traps near your tent site, 

leave your food on a hook in the hut." 

Long story shortened, I arrived back at my tent after a 

refreshing swim in the Waihaha river to witness my food 

bag moving. I got to with a few feet of it before a large rat 

emerged from the bag, carrying said block of cheese over 

the riverbank and disappeared into a hole under a tree root. 

Gone! Several hundred calories lost. Lesson four. If you see 

rat traps near your tent site, leave your food on a hook in the 

hut. 

Regardless, it was an early night for me that evening, glad 

to settle back in my tent and doze off to the sound of the 

river. Another priceless experience. Mercifully day three was 

a relaxing day trip up Hauhungaroa track following the river 

with more towering matai… or was it miro… perhaps rimu? 

and including a relaxing lunch alongside the river, and then 

back to Waihaha hut, another swim, and a long, sociable 

dinner. 

The trip back to the pickup at Highway 32 on the last day 

was a gently rolling walk alongside the river on a track 

designed to be ridden by MTB. My day was made all that 

much easier for me with a pack lighter after the loss of 4 

days food and no cheese reserves. This is another one 

of those trips that will stay in my memory for a long time. 

Despite making it a lot more difficult for myself than I needed 

too, the unique campsites and towering forests will have me 

back here again soon. After doing some shopping. 

I choose to use the following products: Macpac, Back 

Country Cuisine, Keen and Jetboil. 

Main image: Waihaha hut, day four. 

Insert: Locals / dinner! 


RIDGE FLEX 

WITH KEEN.BELLOWS FLEX 

BUILT TO FLEX 

EASIER


A VENTURE 

to assist safe adventures 

Created from the motivation to inspire quality 

trip planning before heading out to explore 

Aotearoa’s hills, forests and mountains is the 

world-first trip planning app, Plan My Walk. 

The brand-new free app, developed by the 

NZ Mountain Safety Council (MSC), boasts 

convenience by bringing together the key 

information a walker needs when planning a 

trip outdoors, including track information, gear 

lists, alerts and weather forecasts. All of this 

can be shared with group members and an 

emergency contact. 

Aotearoa’s tramping culture is unique to this 

part of the world, from chatting to strangers in 

a hut, exchanging notes on track conditions 

to sharing experiences online or in stories. 

Our great outdoors is so much more than just 

a place to explore, it’s part of the fabric and 

culture of Aotearoa. This culture sits at the 

heart of Plan My Walk and is the driver for 

many of its unique features. 

Trampers on Robert Ridge, Nelson Lakes National Park - Image by Shaun Barnett

Image by Caleb Smith 

"The brand-new free app, developed by the NZ Mountain Safety Council (MSC), boasts 

convenience by bringing together the key information a walker needs when planning a trip 

outdoors, including track information, gear lists, alerts and weather forecasts. " 

The concept of the app was triggered 

by the results of on-going in-depth 

incident analysis conducted by MSC 

over the last five years. It clearly 

indicated that a concerning number of 

trampers who either sustain an injury, 

require search and rescue assistance, 

or tragically never make it home, are 

mostly avoidable prevented or their 

seriousness reduced. The solution was 

thorough trip planning and preparation, 

and sound decision-making while out 

in the hills, MSC Chief Executive Mike 

Daisley said. 

“It’s really easy to underestimate the 

importance of quality planning and 

preparation, there are lots of little 

things that can be easily overlooked, or 

if you’re new to tramping how do you 

know where to start and how do you 

effectively make a trip plan. 

“When combined these small gaps in 

planning can have a big impact on your 

safety, conversely, it’s often the little 

details that go a long way to improving 

your safety,” Daisley said. 

The research found that being 

‘unprepared for the weather conditions 

caused 12% of tramping related 

search and rescues (SAR), a ‘lack 

of warm layered clothing and/or a 

waterproof jacket’ caused 13%, and 

an ‘overambitious choice of route, lack 

of sufficient fitness and taking longer 

than expected to reach the destination’ 

caused 30% of tramping related SAR, 

over a seven-year period from 2012 to 

2019. 

Through these insights, combined 

with several other bespoke research 

projects which explored the subject of 

‘trip planning and preparation’, MSC 

considered a range of prevention 

solutions that could effectively reduce 

safety incidents that were caused by 

ineffective planning which ignited the 

Plan My Walk spark. Now that Plan My 

Walk is live, Daisley and the MSC team 

are excited by its potential. 

With over 1000 tracks all with 

MetService weather warnings and 

watches, weather forecasts, track 

information, tramper reviews and 

suggested gear lists, it’s easy. 

Combined with the ability to create a 

trip plan, including a daily schedule, 

add trip notes, documents and group 

members, you can easily save your 

plan and share with others, like your 

trusted emergency contact. 

“PMW is a world-first product that 

we believe has very real potential to 

improve the safety of thousands of 

people, which perfectly aligns with our 

vision and overall purpose,” Daisley 

said. 

Download the app, Plan My Walk, from 

your preferred app store, or check it out 

online at www.planmywalk.nz. Select 

a track, enter your trip dates and find 

alerts, an interactive gear list, weather 

forecast and much more. Create a trip 

plan, assign an emergency contact, 

share it and you’re ready to go! 

A new app version will be released 

mid-October, as at the time of 

publication MSC are deep into another 

round of development to add a range 

of new features and functions, all of 

which have come from user feedback. 

If you have questions or comments, 

feel free to get in touch with the team 

at MSC. Your input is hugely valued, 

and we encourage users to tell us 

about their experience using the app. 

Plan My Walk has been built for 

trampers, by trampers, and we're 100% 

committed to adding new features that 

make planning better! 


Featuring all-new, patented FormKnit technology, the AirZone 

Trek’s iconic carry system offers world-class comfort and 

ventilation. Whether you’re feeling the heat on dusty tracks or 

picking up the pace hut-to-hut, the AirZone Trek helps you keep 

your cool. 

www.rab.equipment 

Available now from Lowe Alpine specialist stores throughout NZ. 

Hunting and Fishing New Zealand stores nationwide. Auckland: Living Simply, Waikato: Trek & Travel, Equip Outdoors, 

BOP: Whakatane Great Outdoors, Taupo: Outdoor Attitude, Wellington: Dwights Outdoors, Motueka: Coppins Outdoors, 

Nelson: PackGearGo Kaikoura: Coastal Sports Christchurch: Complete Outdoors, Greymouth: Colls Sportsworld, 

Hokitika: Wild Outdoorsman, Wanaka: MT Outdoors, Queenstown: Small Planet, Invercargill: Southern Adventure 

Online: dwights.co.nz, gearshop.co.nz, equipoutdoors.co.nz, outdooraction.co.nz, mtoutdoors.co.nz, completeoutdoors.co.nz, 

huntingandfishing.co.nz, smallplanetsports.com,trekntravel.co.nz, outfittersstore.nz 

Distributed by: Outfitters 0800 021732 

www.outfitters.net.nz

GREENSTONE 

RIVER by Packraft 

By Mike Dawson 

With the continual rise of Pack Rafting 

taking over New Zealand’s remote and 

inaccessible waterways we decided to 

throw some rafts on our backs and head 

out into the wild for some backcountry 

fun. Nestled amongst some of New 

Zealand’s most beautiful landscapes 

flows the magical Greenstone River. A 

river surrounded by snow-capped peaks, 

beech forest and just the most epic of 

scenery. Teaming up with Queenstown 

Packrafting and a few of the lads to 

head out on a trip that we hoped will 

have it all. The perfect intermediate pack 

rafters dream, multi day. Something 

close to Queenstown with the feeling 

of remoteness. The Greenstone is that 

place. 

Jumping into the van at the Queenstown 

Airport, the team was diverse. A mixture 

of those that had paddled for years and 

those that hadn’t. The atmosphere was 

alight, fired up for some freedom and a 

good time in the hills. A few pies deep 

for a late breakfast and the discussions 

slowly encroached into the seriousness 

of the ‘Polar Blast’ currently barrelling 

across the lower South Island covering 

the mountain tops with snow. As the 

Greenstone River is located between 

the Thomson, Alisa and Livingston 

Mountains, it was bearing the brunt of 

the heavy rains. Access is via a long 

walk across the Greenstone Caples 

Great Walk or from the West with a short, 

steep slog from the Milford Road. We 

opted for the jaunt over Key Summit from 

the Divide, into Lake McKellar and the 

Greenstone Valley. 

Every pack rafting mission begins with a bit of a hike. The crew loaded up walking 

in from the Main Divide on the Milford Road to the source of the Greenstone River.

The heavy rain and a top up overnight kept the Greenstone River at the perfect level for endless wave chains and some must make ferries. 

The Main Divide Carpark quickly became 

a scattering of equipment synonymous 

with any pack-rafting trip. To any 

onlooker we must have looked overly 

optimistic to be able to fit this garage 

sale of equipment somewhere in our 

packs. Moments later we were locked 

and loaded, leaving in a cloud of yarns 

and laughs ready for the good times. 

The route was along the Western side of 

the well-established, frequently walked 

Greenstone and Caples tracks meaning it 

was light work and fairly quick travel over 

the edge of the summit and down to the 

water. Once we reached the Lake and the 

headwaters of the Greenstone, we got 

kitted up and headed towards the river. 

More famous for the incredible fly fishing, 

the upper stretches of the Greenstone 

River rarely get paddled. Fortunately 

for us the continual downpour meant 

a higher lake level and enough water 

flowing out of Lake McKellar minimising 

our walking and maximising our paddling. 

The river sets off with a relaxed tone. 

Dense Beech Forest blankets the edge 

of the river, almost falling into the water 


Inserts: Arriving at the lake and getting sorted for the 50km ahead. / Gabe making sure the raft is fully pumped before heading on downstream 

Alex Hillary taking in the most epic of sunrises early on Day 2 as we make our way down to the lower gorges. / Gabe enjoying getting amongst it. 

creating a border of stunning greenery. 

The flow was moving quite rapidly, 

constantly descending without to many 

rapids. Almost like a canal, making the 

biggest danger at this stage of the trip the 

constant fear of rounding a blind corner 

into a cesspit of trees as we made our 

way through the upper reaches of the 

Valley. 

We were moving quickly, helped along by 

the rising river. Before we knew it, we had 

arrived at the first gorge, right on dusk. 

The flow growing now into quite a raging 

torrent, the gorge boxed in a bit before 

we arrived above a blind horizon line and 

the sky was getting dimmer and darker 

as we approached a mid-winter dusk. A 

quick yarn leads to the decision not to 

blindly descend further into the gorge in 

darkness, but instead opt for some river 

rock climbing and a quick portage around. 

An overnighter at the majestic Greenstone 

Hut meant we awoke at the top of an 

epic section of class 4 white-water. In the 

morning after a quick scouting mission, 

we broke the team in half, with 3 electing 


With snow settling on the mountains, then brisk temperature of this magic winters day meant fire was essential once the pack down began. 

Below: Harry heads down to the river as dawn light slowly reveals the extent of the overnight snow high in the mountain ranges surrounding us. 

to portage while 3 returned upstream and dropped into the 

Greenstone Hut Gorge. Overnight the rain had been insistent 

and unrelenting leading to huge flows in the morning. Dropping 

into the gorge we were greeted with 3km of stonking big water 

class 4. The scene was set with a burley swim as a boil threw 

one of our pack-rafts upside-down. A quick rescue and gear 

recovery as we continued downstream slowly working our way 

through some epic rapids. Huge waves, long fun rapids and 

tonnes of fist pumps had the 3 of us stoked as we re-joined the 

crew downstream. 

From here the boogie water between the gorges was getting 

fluffy and fun. Huge waves with the river flowing at a rough 

guess close to 80-100 cumecs. We were moving fast now, as 

the river descended further to Slips Flat and the Third Gorge. 

Again, we were met with continuous white-water, boils, huge 

wave chains and tonnes of laughs as we all fell into the river. 

Fortunately, all the swims were quick and easy. 

Regrouping with the entire team for a quick lunch before we all 

jumped on and paddled together for the final kilometres through 

the epic last gorge. From here it was a couple of kilometres to 

the confluence with the Caples River, but the whitewater was 

unrelenting. Huge waves, some brutal and challenging ferries 

made for an eventful last couple of kilometres. The Caples 

River added more juice to an already juicy river and after a few 

more swims we found ourselves at the takeout all stoked on an 

epic mission. 

If you’re into pack rafting this is a must do, but before heading 

out check out the DOC webpage for alerts about the track and 

huts and be sure to check the flows before heading into the 

Greenstone. For more information touch base with Huw @ 

Queenstown Pack Rafting. 


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macpac.co.nz | 37 stores nationwide

CLUTHA MATA-AU 

RIVER 172km by bike 

with Trail Journeys 

Central Otago rapidly became a bucket list 

destination for cyclists after the opening of the 

iconic Otago Central Rail Trail in 2000. Since 

then, a number of new bike trails have popped 

up in the region, meaning there’s now even 

more reason to visit. 

The following four trails can be combined for 

172km of stunning riding along the winding 

banks and mighty gorges of Central Otago’s 

Clutha Mata-au River. 


ROXBURGH GORGE TRAIL 

This trail is one of Central Otago’s most 

visually spectacular rides. Scattered with 

remnants of the gold rush, you’ll head 

deep into the remote Roxburgh Gorge from 

Alexandra to the Lake Roxburgh Hydro 

Dam. To ride the full trail, you’ll enjoy a jet 

boat transfer between Doctors Point and 

Shingle Creek. 

Distance: 21km + 12km jet boat transfer 

CLUTHA GOLD TRAIL 

The Clutha Gold Trail continues along the 

emerald waters of the Clutha Mata-au river and 

along an old branch railway line to Lawrence. 

Brimming with gold mining history, this easy trail 

is the perfect way to immerse yourself in the 

stunning rural and riverside scenes of Central 

Otago’s Teviot Valley. 

Distance: 73km 


LAKE DUNSTAN TRAIL 

The new trail on the block, the Lake Dunstan Trail weaves 

it’s way along the shores of Lake Dunstan from Smith’s 

Way to Cromwell’s Heritage Precinct. It then heads through 

Bannockburn’s wine country and into the remote Cromwell 

Gorge before finishing in the quaint township of Clyde. 


ALEXANDRA TO CLYDE RIVER TRACK 

(Millennium Trail) 

Popular with locals, this sheltered trail follows the true right of the 

river, joining Clyde and Alexandra. Mainly single-track with some 

small undulations and boardwalks, it’s a great alternative to the first 

section of the Otago Central Rail Trail. 


READY TO RIDE? 

The Trail Journeys team have you covered with self-guided cycling services across Central Otago: 

- Bike hire - Transport - Luggage transfers - Accommodation - Full self-guided packages 

info@trailjourneys.co.nz | trailjourneys.co.nz | 0800 724 587 

Since 1992 

DISCOVER NZ’S CYCLE TRAILS WITH ADVENTURE SOUTH NZ 

Fully supported Cycle Trail tours: *West Coast Wilderness Trail *Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail *Otago Central Rail Trail 

*Tasman Great Taste Trail...and more. E-bikes available 

Book online: adventuresouth.co.nz | 0800 00 11 66 | info@adventuresouth.co.nz

TONGARIRO CROSSING SHUTTLES 

-come and hike through our magic landscape- 

5.45am - 7.15am - 8.30am - 9.45am departures 

$45per person for return trip 

www.tongarirocrossingshuttles.co.nz 

Tongariro National Park a Dual World Heritage Site 

Located 15 minutes just outside of 

Queenstown in the scenic Bob’s Cove lays 

our purpose built house and property 

designed to host the most romantic, 

unique and truly memorable weddings 

for you and your group of up to 60 with 

competitively priced all-inclusive 

packages, taking care of everything 

for you. 

Wikki Wikki offers a complete wedding 

location from start to finish – enjoy the 

ceremony, photographs, reception, 

dancing and 18-bed accommodation 

all within our beautiful property. 

With unique features such as the vintage 

Ford Fairlane GT, a funky caravan and 

a massive spread-winged Eagle this 

unique location is the perfect spot for 

your special day. With a rustic design and 

country feel, this property captures that 

special Queenstown flavour in a way that 

no other property does. 

We also cater to a wide range of other 

functions and hire options. 

Tui Drive, Bobs Cove, Mount Creighton, 

Queenstown, NZ 

Tel: +64 3 442 8337 | Mob: +64 21 657 262 

Weddings & Accommodation: 

mark@wikkiwikki.co.nz

Merrell Moab Speed Men’s - Brindle $249.00 

For over a decade, the Merrell® Moab has been 

the choice of hikers all around in the world that has 

enabled 20 million people to step further outdoors. 

Fa-mous for its out-of-the-box comfort, durability 

and all-purpose versatility. The Moab Speed is 

a lightweight, cushioned and protective hybrid 

designed to give you confidence to tackle any trail. 

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ 

Merrell Hut Moc Men's/Women's - Triple Black 

$169.00 

Super-light, ultra-comfy, Hut Moc features an ultralightweight 

EVA outsole and a quilted upper, so 

you can enjoy adventures well beyond the warm 

hut. Available for men now, women’s coming in 

November. 


Merrell Trail Glove 6 Men’s - Black $219.00 

The 6th version of our famous minimalist shoe 

is designed to mimic the shape of the human 

foot, keeping it in the position it would be in 

without shoes. Ver-sion 6 features an improved 

fit, increased abrasion-resistance and made with 

recycled materials. 


SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER 2 $349.90 

The men’s MTN Trainer 2 is a comfortable alpine 

shoe for technical hikes, via ferratas and treks. 

The leather upper has a full protective rubber rand 

for 360° abrasion resistance in rocky terrain and a 

breathable mesh lining. Our signature 3F system 

connects the instep area with the sole and heel for 

flexibility, correct fit and support; and the Vibram® 

outsole is engineered for prolonged heavy use. 

Fit: Standard / Weight: 438 g 

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA 

SALEWA WILDFIRE leather $299.90 

The Wildfire Leather is ideal for everyday use, yet 

provides the support and stability required for hiking 

to light climbing. The high-quality, 1.4mm suede upper 

is supported by a protective rubber rand. Underfoot, 

the POMOCA® Speed MTN Path outsole has been 

developed to ensure versatile grip and sure-footed 

contact. 

FIT: Standard / Weight: (M) 360 g (W) 275 g 


SALEWA DROPLINE $319.90 

Designed with a lightweight air mesh construction 

and a performance EVA midsole that provides 

cushioning for a softer landing and minimized 

impact on your muscles and joints. The 3F system, 

EXA Shell and anti-rock heel cup lock your foot in 

place and ensure directional stability and support for 

long trail runs and speed-hiking over rugged terrain. 

Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 304 g (W) 289 g 


Merrell Siren 3 Gore-Tex Women’s - Rock / Erica 

$299.00 

Designed specifically for women, this lightweight 

and supportive hiker is built with Q FORM® 2 

stability technology and a Vibram® Megagrip® 

for confidence no matter the terrain. It’s Gore-Tex 

waterproof membrane with keep you dry in wet 

weather. 


SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER LITE MID GORE-TEX® $399.90 

Made for alpine hiking and long backpacking routes, 

our lightweight, comfortable and supportive mid-cut 

boot performs well on rock and technical terrain. The 

waterproof, breathable GORE-TEX® lining makes it 

ideal for 3-season use, from higher activity levels in 

summer, to rain, mud or lingering snow. 

Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 565 g (W) 465 g 


SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER MID GORE-TEX® $499.90 

Our MTN Trainer Mid GTX is a lightweight alpine 

trekking boot with a suede leather upper and a 

waterproof breathable GORE-TEX® Performance 

Comfort lining. At the ankle, the Flex Collar allows 

natural movement and the 3F System provides 

flexibility, support and a blister-free fit. Underfoot we 

feature a dual-density Bilight TPU midsole and a 

Vibram® WTC outsole. 

Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 700 g (pictured) (W) 570 g 



Keen Ridge Flex Waterproof Boot (Men’s) $349.99 

What if every step could feel easier? Meet the e-bike of hiking 

boots, built with KEEN.BELLOWS FLEX technology to flex 

where you do. We took the trusted fit of our iconic Targhee 

hiker and paired it with our new KEEN.BELLOWS FLEX 

technology to flex easier and reduce the energy. 

WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ 

FOR YOUR FEET 

equip 

yourself! 

Keen Ridge Flex Waterproof Boot (Women’s) $349.99 

What if every step could feel easier? Meet the e-bike of hiking 

boots, built with KEEN.BELLOWS FLEX technology to flex 

where you do. We took the trusted fit of our iconic Targhee hiker 

and paired it with our new KEEN.BELLOWS FLEX technology to 

flex easier and reduce the energy. 


Targhee Waterproof Mid Boot (Men’s) $289.99 

The Targhee collections fit, durability and performance 

have earned it a loyal following over the past 15 years. 

With a bold new design, this update is tough, lean and 

ready or the next chapter of epic adventure. 


Low Prices Everyday 

Merrell Moab 2 Mid Waterproof Unisex - Funfetti 

$279.00 

The 40th Anniversary Merrell Moab, the world’s 

most popular hiking boot in this limited release 

design to commemorate 40 years of breaking new 

ground on and off the trail. Unisex style that is 

available in both men’s and women’s sizing. 


Free NZ Shipping on 

orders over $150 for 

members 

Members Earn Equip+ 

Loyalty Points 

shop online or instore 

equipoutdoors.co.nz 

62 Killarney Road, 

Frankton, Hamilton, 

New Zealand 

P: 0800 22 67 68 

E: sales@equipoutdoors.co.nz

Patagonia R1 TechFace Jacket $279.99 

Warm, stretchy and breathable, but 

with the added benefits of abrasion 

and weather resistance. This coolweather 

cross-layer was designed 

for extended versatility in shifting 

mountain conditions and is Fair 

Trade Certified sewn. 

Weight: M's: 326g. W's: 278g 

WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ 

macpac Eva Short Sleeve Tee $59.99 

Eva Tee’s are made from a soft 

fabric blend that features drirelease 

technology to keep you cool. Silky 

soft and crease resistant, these 

lightweight tees have a loose, 

modern silhouette. 

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ 

outdoor research Echo Hoodie $89.99 

Made from the same moisture-wicking, breathable, 

quick-drying AirVent fabric as the rest of the bestselling 

Echo series but adds long sleeves and hood for 

extra protection. Features odour control technology, 

anti-chafe flat seam construction and a UPF 15 sun 

protection rating. Designed to tackle adventures in hot 

conditions. 

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ/CLOTHING 

Outdoor Research Helium Wind Hoodie $179.99 

Technical wind shell made from durable, lightweight Diamond Fuse 

technology to take on any windy adventure. Other features include 

laser-perforated underarm vents to minimise heat build-up and a refined 

hood design that stays in place when you're moving at pace. Available in 

men’s and women’s specific versions. 


Rab Arc Eco Jacket $399.95 

The Arc Eco uses 3-layer Pertex® Shield Revolve. This 

waterproof and breathable fabric is constructed from 100% 

post-consumer recycled polyester. This means the jacket’s 

face fabric, membrane and backer are made up of a single 

polymer which makes it much easier to recycle at the end of 

its life. This revolutionary construction reduces the impact of 

production and improves the chances of closing the loop on 

polyester’s life cycle. 

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ 


Merrell Whisper Rain Shell Men’s - Lichen $299.00 

Whisper through the rain in a jacket that’s 100% 

waterproof, has 4-way stretch and revolutionary 

knit next-to-skin comfort. This version is updated to 

include recycled polyester and PFC free DWR finish 

for a more conscious choice. Available in colours for 

both Men and Women. 


Rab Xenon Jacket $349.95 

The Xenon 2.0 is insulated with quick-drying 

PrimaLoft® Silver, a lightweight, packable, and 

water-resistant insulation made from 100% 

recycled plastic bottle chips. it’s a high lofting, 

eco-friendly insulation.Ideal for tackling rugged 

terrain, the jacket uses a weather resistant, 

recycled Pertex® Quantum ripstop outer, 

finished with a fluorocarbon-free DWR. 


Outdoor Research Refuge Air Hooded Jacket $399.99 

Water- and wind-resistant jacket that helps retain heat while 

working and sweating hard using the adaptable VerticalX 

Air insulation that keeps you warm when you need it and 

rapidly moves moisture the moment you start to perspire. 

Features ActiveTemp, a thermo-regulating technology 

that keeps you cool, dry and comfortable on high-activity 

adventures. Available in men’s and women’s versions. 


Rab Kangri Jacket $699.95 

With a recycled outer fabric, the Kangri GTX is a robust 

and reliable hard shell built with 70D 3-Layer GORE-TEX. 

Designed with the avid all-weather adventurer in mind, 

the Kangri GTX is ideal for hillwalking, hiking, trekking 

and mountain scrambles. 


Rab Cirrus Flex 2.0 Hoody $299.95 

With its hybrid construction, comprising 

micro-baffles, synthetic insulation and 

stretch fleece side panels, it can be used 

as a soft, breathable midlayer for cold 

winter days or it can be thrown over a 

t-shirt for a lightweight warmth boost 

on chilly summer evenings at the crag. 

The stretchy Thermic fleece side 

panels are fluffy on the inside with a flat 

exterior, helping wick away moisture, 

while improving mobility for agile days 

in the hills. The Primaloft® Silver Luxe 

insulation, meanwhile, retains an even, 

down-like loft for reliable warmth, even 

in the wet. 

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ

Outdoor Research Sun Runner Cap $44.90 

Wear with or without the removable, 

adjustable skirt. Attach to give you shelter 

from the harsh sun or remove when you just 

want a cap. It's made from lightweight fabric 

with UPF 30+ sun protection. The addition of 

mesh side panels allows a welcome air flow 

over the sides of your head. 

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ 

sunsaver classic 16,000 mah 

solar power bank $119.00 

Built tough for the outdoors 

and with a massive battery 

capacity you can keep all 

your devices charged no 

matter where your adventure 

takes you. 

WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ 

sea to summit Overland Gaiter $69.99 

Incredible value, hard-wearing, easy to 

put on and easily adjusted, these gaiters 

are perfect for their namesake track and 

adventures beyond. 

• Great value bushwalking gaiter 

• Adjustable 50mm front opening 

• 450D ripstop Nylon 

• 316 stainless steel lace hook 

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ 

Charmate 12 Quart Round Cast Iron Camp Oven $125.00 

The Charmate 12 Quart Camp oven is perfect for 

camping. With thicker walls and base for consistent heat 

transfer, it’s pre-seasoned and ready to use. 

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ 

lowe alpine Manaslu ND50:65 $599.95 

The Manaslu ND50:65 is made with durable 

yet lightweight mini ripstop fabric, with a 

hard-wearing Nylon base. Side and internal 

compression straps, and forward pull hip 

belt adjustment ensure a stable carry and a 

comfortable fit, however heavy your load. An 

extendable lid increases the volume by an extra 

15 litres, while external daisy chain lash points 

allow external storage. 


lowe alpine AirZone Trail 35 $299.95 

The AirZone Trail 35 features a Fixed AirZone 

carry system with a breathable back to 

maximise airflow and keep you cool and 

comfortable. With a single buckle entry to the 

main compartment and a 35 litre capacity, 

there’s room for everything for a day’s hike 

or trek. Upper and lower side compression 

straps add stability, and a forward pull hip belt 

adjustment ensures the perfect fit. 


macpac Vamoose Child Carrier $499.99 

The Vamoose is harnessed with a wide, 

padded hip belt for effective weight 

distribution. The adjustable child seat, 

‘grows' with your child and helps to keep 

them secure. Made from durable fabrics 

with plenty of pockets for extra gear — it 

has a 19 litre storage capacity and a 

detachable day pack. 



kiwi camping Boost LED Light with Power Bank $84.99 

Bright LED light with power bank to illuminate your 

tent and charge devices on the go. Features 11 light 

modes, built-in magnets and hanging hook. 


macpac Moon Quad Folding Chair $169.99 

Designed for camping in comfort, the Macpac 

Moon Quad Folding Chair is circular in shape 

and heavily padded with a durable polyester 

fabric for all day relaxation. . 


macpac Hiking Travel Chair $119.99 

Comfortable and light, our hiking travel chair is 

ideal for camping trips with family or friends. 

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

sea to summit Jungle tarp $199.99 

Add our Jungle Hammock Tarp to your 

Jungle Hammock Set for a sheltered, 

bug-free suspended sleep. 

Made from water and abrasion 

resistant, lightweight 30 denier Ultra- 

Sil CORDURA® Nylon fabric with 

waterproof seams – double stitched and 

tape sealed, non-wicking anchor points 

with adjustable guy lines and siliconised 

outer surface with 2000mm waterhead. 

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ 

kiwi camping HS Tent Top Cargo Tray $839.00 

The Tuatara Tent Top Cargo Tray is designed to fit our 

Hard Shell Rooftop Tent to allow you to stow camping and 

adventure gear for your touring adventures. 


kiwi camping Tuatara 2.5 x 2.5 Awning $419.00 

Offers 6.25m² of covered area for sun or rain protection. 200g polycotton 

canvas awning, twist-lock design, adjustable height and mounts directly to 

existing roof rack. 


kiwi camping Tuatara SSC Rooftop Tent $2,599.00 

New Zealand’s first Blackout Rooftop Tent, the Tuatara Soft Shell 

Compact pops up and folds away in just 2 minutes. Includes 

telescopic ladder and heavy-duty 1000D PVC travel cover. 


kiwi camping Tuatara HS Rooftop Tent $5,699.00 

Hard-wearing and spacious, the Tuatara Hardshell is one of the 

lowest profile rooftop tents on the market. Includes heavy-duty 

frame, 7cm mat and 316 marine-grade stainless steel. 



Rab Ascent 500 $599.95 

The Ascent 500 is a hard-wearing 

high performing sleeping bag you can 

depend on for comfort and protection 

in mild to moderate conditions. Ideal 

for general purpose outdoor use, 

from bothy to bivvy, the Ascent range 

equips you for regular mountain 

adventures. Durable, tough, and 

reliably warm, the Ascent is especially 

suitable for those wanting to invest in 

their first down sleeping bag. Offering 

excellent value for the feature set, 

which is similar to that of the more 

technical Rab bags, this hard working 

piece provides protection and comfort 

on the hill or trail. 


Rab Mythic 200 $999.95 

Weighing in at just 475g the Mythic contains 200g of 

the highest fill power ethically sourced European Goose 

Down. Achieving an exceptional warmth to weight ratio, 

this bag retains all the features you need to stay warm 

and protected in a mountain environment. The tapered 

mummy shape with angled foot box gives a generous 

fit for the weight. Weight saving baffle construction 

prevents down shift, while the chambers are angled 

downwards in chevrons keeping the down over the 

centre of the body to ensure core warmth throughout 

the night. Each bag is hand filled in Derbyshire using 

Hydrophobic down developed in conjunction with 

Nikwax® 


Outdoor Research Bug Bivy 

Provides complete insect protection through the 

night. A single pole holds the mesh away from your 

face, keeping bugs at a distance, while the zipper 

opening seals out mosquitoes and other small 

insects. A waterproof floor keeps the moist ground 

from soaking through your bag. Features include 

sleeping mat straps, three stake loops, two guy-line 

loops and an internal mesh pocket. 454gm 

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ 

Patagonia 850 Down Sleeping Bag $749.99 

The streamlined bag has a minimalistminded 

design and a feature set that’s ideal 

for climbers, kayakers and backpackers 

who need an essentials-only kit. Fair Trade 

Certified sewn, it features Advanced 

Global Traceable Down, and nylon ripstop 

Pertex® Quantum. Weight: 734g 

WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ 

sea to summit Jungle Hammock Set $299.99 

Perfect for humid environments, the Jungle Hammock 

Set comes with straps and can be used anywhere from 

the backpacking trail to the wilderness. In wet conditions, 

combine it with our Jungle Hammock Tarp for a sheltered, 

bug-free suspended sleep. 

Made using breathable, lightweight 70 denier ripstop 

Nylon, high-tenacity monofilament netting, Dyneema® 

webbing and corrosion-resistant anodised 6061 Aluminium 

buckles. 

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ

ack country cuisine $9.49 - $13.99 

CHICKEN CARBONARA: A freeze dried chicken 

and pasta dish, served in a creamy italian style 

sauce. Available small serve (90g) or regular (175g) 

MUSHROOM BOLOGNAISE (Vegan) Mushrooms 

with tomato in a savoury sauce, served with noodles. 

Available small serve (90g) or regular (175g) 

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ 

back country cuisine 

CHOCOLATE BROWNIE PUDDING $13.19: Our take 

on chocolate self-saucing pudding, with chocolate 

brownie, boysenberries and chocolate sauce. Gluten 

Free. Available in regular serve (150g) 

ICED MOCHA $4.09: Our mocha is made with 

chocolate and coffee combined with soft serve to give 

you a tasty drink on the run. Gluten Free. 85g. 

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ 

POUCHES 

SOFT - PLASTIC 

RECYCLABLE 

Deep Creek Brewing - Basalt 440ml $8.99 

STYLE: HAZY IPA 6.5% ABV 

Inspired by one of the four guardians of 

Chinese Mythology, Basalt is packed with 

El Dorado, Mosaic and Idaho 7 Hops, with 

vibrant fruity hop flavours fighting against 

the dark of winter. 

WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ 

Deep Creek Brewing - Antivirus 440ml $8.99 

STYLE: IPA 7.0% ABV 

A nod to our frontline health workers. They are our 

true everyday heroes. We will be donating 50c 

from every can sold and $25 from every keg sold 

to the Auckland Health Foundation. Made with 

Mosaic, Idaho 7 and Citra hops. Disclaimer: This 

beer will not cure any kind of disease. 


NZ’S NO.1 MEALS 

FOR HIKING 

ADVENTURES 

Find out 

more 

 

 

backcountrycuisine.co.nz/pouches 

Deep Creek Brewing -sentinel 440ml $8.99 

STYLE: HAZY IPA AVB: 6.5% 

This White Tiger Sentinel is inspired by one of 

the four guardians of Chinese mythology, which 

represents the autumn season. Enjoy the beautiful 

passionfruit and a sprinkling of guava taste! 


Deep Creek Brewing - Ukulele 440ml $8.99 

STYLE: PEACH GINGER SOUR 4.5% 

Time to relax. Break out the ukulele, find a 

hammock, and transport yourself to the tropics. 

The peach flavours play a sweet melody with 

ginger harmoniously elevating the flavour profile 

over the zesty lime finish. 

WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ

FEED YOUR ADDICTION 

Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and 

development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are 

made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole 

new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s 

online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able 

drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are 

a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home. 

Never have a dead phone 

again! Because now you can 

charge straight from the Sun 

with SunSaver. Perfect for 

that week-long hike, day at 

the beach, or back-up for any 

emergency. Check us out at: 

www.sunsaver.co.nz 

www.packraftingqueenstown.com 

Specialising in 

small group guided 

packrafting trips and 

courses from our base 

in Queenstown New 

Zealand. 

www.adventuresouth.co.nz 

Whether you enjoy 

cycle trails, road 

cycling, mountain 

biking or walking, 

Adventure South NZ 

can help you to explore 

New Zealand at 

your own pace. 

Full-service outfitter selling hiking 

and mountaineering gear and 

apparel, plus equipment rentals. 

Specialising in ski & snowboard 

touring equipment new & used; 

skis, boards, bindings, skins, 

probs, shovels,transceivers & 

avalanche packs. 

www.smallplanetsports.com 

Our motto is “Going the 

distance” and we pride 

ourselves on providing top 

quality outdoor and travel 

equipment and service 

that will go the distance 

with you, wherever that 

may be. 

www.trekntravel.co.nz 

Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional 

outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping. 

www.patagonia.co.nz 

Stocking an extensive range 

of global outdoor adventure 

brands for your next big 

adventure. See them for travel, 

tramping, trekking, alpine and 

lifestyle clothing and gear. 

www.outfittersstore.nz 

Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV, 

Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents, 

Packs, Sleeping Bags and more. 

www.equipoutdoors.co.nz 

Reusable, BPA free water bottles containing a unique 3-in- 

1 filtration technology providing clean safe drinking water 

from any non-salt water source anywhere in the world. 

www.watertogo.co.nz 

Our very own online store where 

you will find hard goods to keep you 

equipped for any adventure. 

www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz 


Ultra lightweight running shoes, made by runners. No 

matter where the trail takes you, Hoka One One will 

have you covered. 

www.hokaoneone.co.nz 

New Zealands largest independent Outdoor and 

Paddle store. 

www.furtherfaster.co.nz 

Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor 

clothing, footwear and equipment from the best 

brands across New Zealand & the globe. 

www.bivouac.co.nz 

Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel 

& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals & 

casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time. 

www.merrell.co.nz 

Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills 

or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last 

and engineered to perform — proudly designed and 

tested in New Zealand since 1973. 

www.macpac.co.nz 

Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment 

specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place 

for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents, outdoor 

clothing and more. 

www.livingsimply.co.nz 

Offering the widest variety, 

best tasting, and most 

nutrient rich hydration, 

energy, and recovery 

products on the market. 

www.guenergy.co.nz 

Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers. 

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz 

Jetboil builds super-dependable 

backpacking stoves and camping 

systems that pack light, 

set up quick, and achieve 

rapid boils in minutes. 

www.jetboilnz.co.nz 

Supplying tents and 

camping gear to Kiwis 

for over 30 years, Kiwi 

Camping are proud to 

be recognised as one of 

the most trusted outdoor 

brands in New Zealand. 

www.kiwicamping.co.nz 

Radix provides freeze dried 

meals and smoothies made 

with all natural ingredients. 

These are perfect for 

athletes and adventures 

who care about their health 

and performance. Gluten 

free, Plant-based and Keto 

www.radixnutrition.com 

options are available. 

Get 10% off your first order online. 

Excellent quality Outdoor 

Gear at prices that can't 

be beaten. End of lines. 

Ex Demos. Samples. Last 

season. Bearpaw. Garneau. 

Ahnu. Superfeet. 

www.adventureoutlet.co.nz

COLD WEATHER 

CAMPING 

Why camp in the cold? 

Story compliments of www.kiwicamping.co.nz 

First the question must be asked – why camp when it’s 

cold? 

Well, there are a few reasons, the first being – the 

stars! Shorter days and clearer skies mean amazing 

opportunities to see the stars so clearly you could touch 

them... or at least instagram them! 

The next reason – space – you won't be cramming into a 

campsite with a hundred other people on your doorstep! 

The next, and perhaps best reason, is the view. Very few 

people actually appreciate the true beauty of winter. Cold 

weather can make a place ethereal, like transporting 

yourself to a different world, a world that’s just for you, 

thus giving you epic bragging rights. 

That said preparation is key. Never be caught out by 

being under-prepared! It’s always best to know the area 

you're travelling too, make sure you're comfortable you're 

prepared for the environment and its climate (and a little 

bit more besides). Always check the Metservice to make 

sure you're not heading into anything risky and let people 

know where you're going. 



THE RIGHT GEAR 

It seems obvious, but if you're sleeping out in 0° 

temperatures, and you want to be comfortable, 

make sure your sleeping bag is a -10° bag. It’s 

recommended to have a bag that’s rated at least 

5.5°C lower than the coldest temperature you expect. 

There is some confusion over 'comfort' vs 'limit' so 

here is a guide: 

• Comfort: The temperature an adult could expect a 

comfortable night’s sleep. 

• Limit: The temperature at which a standard person 

can sleep for eight hours in a curled position without 

waking. 

• Extreme: The minimum temperature at which a 

standard person can remain for six hours without risk 

of death from hypothermia (though frostbite is still 

possible). 

Fight the urge to snuggle deep into your bag, your 

breath will eventually create moisture, and therefore 

you'll get cold. Instead, tighten the draft collar (yes, 

that’s what it’s for!) and hood so your body keeps 

in the warmth and you can breathe easy! Lastly, a 

sleeping bag liner can add extra warmth too. 

A mattress is also incredibly important, if you're on an 

air mattress, you'll probably want to put something 

on top of it as a barrier to keep the warmth near you, 

rather than heating the cold air you're on. Failing that, 

you can put a foam mat between the tent floor and 

the mattress you're on keeping a barrier. 

TENTS 

Some tents are made for the side of a mountain in 

a blizzard, but most aren't. Carefully choose your 

tent to suit the location and conditions of where 

you are planning your adventure. If you are hiking 

or tramping, you’ll be wanting to carry a small, 

lightweight tent, like Hiker Tents. Smaller tents are 

also easier to put up quickly and heat. 

FUEL 

Both kinds; the wood and the food kind are really 

important. Hot food is essential to keeping up your 

energy and keeping your internal temperature steady. 

To heat water or food quickly, you can use a Gasmate 

turbo stove, it heats 500ml of water in 2.5 minutes. 

Boil in the bag meals are a good option and always 

take an extra fuel canister! If you're going down the 

more traditional route of a natural fire, then you'll 

need dry kindling or some fire-lighters. Remember, 

dry wood isn't always easy to come by, so always 

have a back-up plan! 

CLOTHES 

Polyprop is your friend. It keeps you warm, even if 

you're wet, and it’s easy to dry out. Wool will also 

keep you warm, even if wet, but it’s heavy if it gets 

wet, and almost impossible to dry out. Stay away from 

cotton. Synthetics or merino are also great thermal 

insulators. Layer up, from the base layer out! 


BACK COUNTRY CUISINE REVIEW - by Eric Skilling 

I have been a bit reluctant to try out freeze dried meals after a bad 

experience some years ago but I have always envied the high caloriesper-gram 

meals, much lighter than what I usually carry in my pack. 

OTHER TIPS 

While making your hot cuppa before bed, 

put some hot (not boiling) water into a 

sealed plastic bottle and heat up your 

sleeping bag before getting in. 

Keep your drinking water from freezing by 

using insulated bottle pockets. It’s best if it 

has a non-spill straw or top, spills will mean 

wet clothes and that’s hard to fix! 

Choose lithium batteries instead of alkaline. 

Lithium is the only sensible choice in 

0° weather, so if you really need that 

headlamp to work, don't take alkaline! 

Snuggle – You're warmer if there’s two 

of you, so get up close! The less cold air 

coming up through the floor means you'll 

both be warmer. 

Keep your mobile phone in your sleeping 

bag with you, if it gets too cold, it may run 

out of power, and there aren't too many 

power sockets in the bush. 

Put tomorrow’s clothes in the bottom of 

your bag too. If you wear a base layer to 

bed, you can simply get dressed in the 

warm kit from the bottom of the bag. 

Tarp – so versatile! Put it under the tent 

as a barrier, put it in the vestibule to stop 

traipsing in mud and water, use it as an 

extra wind break or water barrier, sit on it 

around the fire. 

Keep your feet and head warm – now we 

sound like your mother! Your head and 

upper chest are five times more sensitive 

to temperature changes than other areas of 

our bodies, so keep them covered. When 

you get really cold, your body sacrifices 

the blood flow from the extremities first, so 

keep your feet dry and warm. 

So, after watching fellow adventurers tucking in on a recent multiday 

tramp, I put my prejudices away and packed some Back Country 

Cuisine for a mid-winter overnighter on the Tarawera Trail. 

My bad experience goes way back to a four-day trip taken almost two 

decades ago when apart from finding the taste quite average, I always 

finished the meal and then found myself looking around for the main 

course. As everyone knows good food and a good tramping experience 

go together. Spending several minutes trying to fork out microscopic 

particles from the bottom of a packet that you did not really enjoy, does 

nothing for morale. 

Well, I can truthfully say a lot has changed. 

Hats off to the Back Country Cuisine Chefs – later that day I still found 

myself scratching around with the fork into the corners of a packet of 

Roast Lamb and Vegetables, only this time it wasn’t because I was 

hungry but because it tasted so good! Not only does the food taste 

great, but I was full to the point of making a bit of an oinker of myself. 

To confess I did cheat a bit. I always pack a fresh vegetable, usually 

a carrot, which I cut into small pieces and boil with the water before 

pouring it into the bag. This time however the meal made the carrot 

taste better, instead of the other way round. I also enjoyed the meal 

looking over one of those priceless NZ scenes, a glassy-calm Lake 

Tarawera in the last of the twilight, with temperatures heading down 

to minus 2deg C. The meal was tasty, warming and most importantly, 

filling. 

Although I wasn’t hungry, I was tempted to try the Strawberry Ambrosia 

dessert, as it sounded so appealing. I boiled more water and filled the 

packet. By this stage it was too dark to see what I was eating but the 

chefs should be proud. A little later having done the dishes (a knife, fork 

and spoon) and feeling quite contented I lay back and did some star 

gazing. I was hoping to enjoy Matariki, but it was well hidden by the 

mighty Mt Tarawera. I didn’t really care. I was feeling so good I enjoyed 

the milky way instead before sliding back into the tent and the warmth 

of my sleeping bag. 

The following evening back in civilisation, instead of wasting time 

shopping, I enjoyed a three-course meal of the Malaysian Chicken 

soup followed by the Teriyaki Beef and Noodles which I had packed as 

emergency food. I finished the meal with the Banana Smoothie that I 

had intended to use while MTB the Redwoods. I did add another carrot 

to the Teriyaki, but I am an unashamed fan of Back Country Cuisine.


FREEDOM 

CAMPING 

Story compliments of www.kiwicamping.co.nz 

Freedom camping or free camping is the practice 

of putting up tents or parking up campervans in 

public areas not designated for camping. Free 

camping typically means that freedom campers 

cannot access facilities such as clean drinking 

water, toilets (either flushing or long drop) and 

waste disposal facilities. Free camping appeals 

to campers, especially those on a tight budget 

because it offers the ultimate in 'cheap camping'. 

In New Zealand, freedom campers tend to use 

laybys, picnic areas and very remote spots. 

There are now around 420 ‘free’ campsites 

scattered around New Zealand that are 

designated by local councils and the Department 

of Conservation. Up until 2011 in New Zealand, 

it was much easier to find a free campsite as 

many of the councils didn’t see freedom camping 

as a problem and there weren’t as many rules. 

Then, around the time of the Rugby World Cup 

in 2011, the entire campervan rental fleet was 

booked out months in advance. Also around this 

time, there were some highly publicised cases 

of irresponsible freedom camping (going to the 

toilet in a public place, leaving rubbish in popular 

free camping spots etc). 


Unfortunately, free camping is 

having an increasingly negative 

effect on New Zealand’s clean, 

green environment due to the 

increasing volume of freedom 

campers – some of whom create 

litter problems, dispose of human 

waste inadequately and discharge 

grey water outside of dump stations. 

Free campers tend not to be popular 

with local residents but it doesn't 

have to be that way. To help keep 

New Zealand beautiful, avoid fines, 

and stay in the good books with 

the locals we've put together some 

helpful 'need-to-knows', best practice 

tips, and links to local council and 

government resources. 

WHAT ARE THE NEW RULES? 

From February 1st 2018, the national 

standards covering self-contained 

vehicles have been tightened. All 

motor caravans and caravans must 

be self-contained when staying 

overnight at locations where selfcontainment 

is required, this includes 

some DOC campsites (note some 

locations do not require campers to 

be self-contained, as a responsible 

camper you must check all signs 

at the location you are staying at). 

This means you need to be able 

to live in your vehicle for 3 days 

without requiring more water or 

dumping waste. The vehicle must 

have freshwater storage, wastewater 

storage, a rubbish bin with a lid, 

and a toilet that can be used inside, 

even when the bed is in place. If you 

do not have a vehicle with a selfcontained 

toilet, you will need to park 

near toilet facilities. Your vehicle hire 

company should have information to 

pass on about the type of vehicle you 

need. 

The confusing part for travellers is 

that different regions and Department 

of Conservation areas have different 

rules. To make sure you're aware of 

these differing rules, be sure to check 

in with local Isite Visitor Information 

Centres and DoC Visitor Centres or 

if you're still in doubt check out your 

local council information. 

To access an up-to-date list of 

Freedom Camping sites check out 

www.rankers.co.nz 

FREE CAMPING BEST PRACTICE 

Freedom camping is not illegal in New 

Zealand, but local by-laws can specifically 

restrict it in certain areas and free campers 

not complying with notices can be fined. If 

you are free camping in New Zealand, do 

try to follow the guidelines below: 

• Make sure you park your campervan 

or pitch your tent in a safe area, well 

away from traffic. If possible, try to 

camp near to a public toilet block, 

where you can use the toilets and 

sinks (sometimes showers). 

• Keep your car or campervan doors 

locked at night. 

• Portable fuel stoves are less harmful 

to the environment and are more 

efficient than fires. In dry times of 

year, open fires may be prohibited in 

certain areas – be sure to check for 

fire restrictions. If you really have to 

make a fire, keep it small, use only 

dead wood and make sure it is out by 

dousing it with water and checking the 

ashes before you leave. 

• Improper disposal of toilet waste 

can contaminate water, damage 

the environment and is culturally 

offensive. Use disposal facilities 

where provided or bury waste in a 

shallow hole at least 50 metres away 

from waterways. 

• When cleaning and washing in open 

waterways, take the water and wash 

well away from the water source. As 

soaps and detergents are harmful to 

water life, drain used water into the 

soil to allow it to be filtered. 

• If you suspect water to be 

contaminated, either boil it for at least 

three minutes, or filter it, or chemically 

treat it. 

• Litter is unattractive, harmful to 

wildlife and pollutes water. Take all 

your litter with you, recycle what you 

can, and dispose of non-recyclables 

in the appropriate rubbish bins or 

refuse centres. 

• Camp carefully and respect the 

environment and other visitors – leave 

no trace of your visit, nothing but 

footprints as the old adage goes. 

• Check out NZ Tourism Guide for more 

info. 

Campermate.co.nz has a great free app 

available on IOS and Android which lets 

you know where the free campsites are 

while travelling around NZ. Check it out! 


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VANUATU 

Top hikes in the Outer Islands 

MOUNT YASUR - TANNA 

Vanuatu’s outer islands offer more than 

just world-renowned snorkelling, remote 

beaches and palm trees, they’re home to 

some of the most spectacular, adrenalinepumping 

treks in the Pacific Islands. So 

grab your hiking boots and get ready for 

an adventure you’ll never forget. 

From an active volcano to the world’s largest banyan tree, this 

is an unmissable three-day trek on Tanna island in the Tafea 

province. Tanna island people are bare-foot walkers, and will 

guide you from natural hot springs surrounded by overgrown 

rainforest to white-sand beaches with pounding surf and volcanic 

black-sand planes. 

From the base to the summit of Mt Yasur is an easy to moderate 

3.5-hour round trip on foot across expansive ash plains. While 

there is an option to drive, we really encourage the hike! This is 

best done at night as you’ll have the opportunity to witness the red 

glow of lava under a dark night sky. 

Mt Yasur is one of Vanuatu’s most dramatic booming visitor 

attractions – the volcano is a female deity and she is revered by 

the people of Tanna Island with many cultural stories revolving 

around her power. As such visitors walking up the volcano pay 

an entrance fee that is shared with the community. For more 

information visit or chat with the good folks at Entani who manage 

the volcano visits. 


MANBUSH TRAIL - MALEKULA 

This four-day hike will take you from the east 

of Malekula to the west, hiking over lush and 

mountainous terrain, into remote island villages, 

and through farmland and rivers. Make sure 

you pack suitable wet weather gear for this hike 

and sturdy waterproof hiking boots or hiking 

sandles. The last thing you want is wet socks 

for four days! There will be guides to carry your 

backpack. 

On day one, you’ll hike 1.5-2 hours from Unua to 

the dense bushland in Melken, ascending only 

10m, easy! 

On day two, you’ll hike for 7 hours from 

Melken to Mt Laimbele, ascending 650m and 

descending 170m. From this breathtaking 

rainforest you’ll get a glimpse of the volcanoes 

on Ambrym, a neighbouring island. You’ll likely 

spend the evening eating bush-tucker around a 

fire, before retiring to your mat on the floor of a 

handmade bush hut. 

On day three, expect another 8-hours of walking 

from Mt Laimbele to Lebongbong, with similar 

terrain to the day before. Keep your eyes peeled 

for wild cattle and birdlife. You’ll be treated to 

seasonal bush food, likely nesowong, which is 

a meal made from bush banana, water taro and 

coconut milk. 

On the final day, day four, you’ll hike 9-10 hours. 

It’s a day of descent (1140m!), so get those 

hiking poles and knees ready. You’ll pass by 

several banyan trees - giants of the forests, 

with roots that envelop their trunks. You’ll also 

see a giant waterfall, explore a spring in a cave 

and visit a nakamal (a traditional meeting place) 

before bunkering down in the village of Yawa for 

a shower and a comfortable bed. 


NGUNA FULL DAY ADVENTURE - NGUNA 

If you’ve got a few days in Port Vila, the hike up Nguna 

island’s highest extinct volcano (Mt Taputaora, 593m) is a 

must-do. You’ll need to catch a ride from your accommodation 

on Port Vila to Emua Wharf before catching a boat over to 

Nguna in order to start this hike. 

It begins slowly, with a gradual incline, passing through small 

villages with children who will run out to greet you. The final 

leg is hard, and steep. You’ll be exposed to the sun and it’ll be 

hot. Make sure to wear a hat! 

As you summit the volcano, you’ll be treated to expansive 

views across the Shepherd Islands to the north, and south to 

Efate. Afterwards you’ll be offered a buffet lunch by the beach 

and a snorkel along the Nguna coastline to cool off. 

LAKE LETAS & MT GARET - GAUA 

DOGS HEAD TRAIL - MALEKULA 

This three-day coast-to-coast traverse through wild 

bushland extends from the north east to the north 

west of Malekula Island. It’s a strenuous hike, but a 

rewarding one. You’ll have the unique opportunity to 

be introduced to the Big Nambas territories and be 

totally removed from the modern world that you’re 

used to. 

Don’t expect electricity and flushing toilets, expect 

huge smiles and generous spirits. Revel in the 

villages built almost entirely from bamboo and palm 

thatch. At the end of the three-day trek, jump into the 

Pacific Ocean to cool off on Malekula’s west. 

On the island of Gaua lies one of Vanuatu’s most remote and 

active volcanoes. This three-day adventure involves crossing 

Lake Letas in a rigger canoe before a steep, exposed climb up 

to the rim of Mt Garet. It’s only an hour up to the top, but it’s a 

difficult one, so get your walking sticks ready and keep your 

feet firmly on the path despite moments of terror. 

You’ll have the opportunity to camp in small bungalows at 

Victor’s Camp, right on the lake. Victor’s a vivacious and jovial 

character who’ll tell you stories under dim lamplight, share 

shells and shells of kava (watch out!) and, together with his 

wife, feed you until you’re as full as can be. 

On the hike back down, you’ll visit Vanuatu’s highest waterfall, 

Siri Waterfall, which boasts a 120m drop. This is a wet walk, 

so make sure you’ve got sturdy hiking sandals or boots. 

Vanuatu hopes that Lake Letas becomes a Unesco world 

heritage site. 


vanuatu.travel

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