Jewellery World Magazine - November 2021

NOVEMBER 2021
AUSTRALIA AND NEW
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

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Jewellery World Magazine
ABN: 82 637 204 454
ISSN: 2207-6751
PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570
P: 0431 844 903
Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au
Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au
Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au
managing director
Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903
jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au
editor
editor@jewelleryworld.net.au
contributing writers
Kirsten Ehrlich Davies
Stefan Juengling
Cheryl D Harty
art
design@jewelleryworld.net.au
advertising sales
sales@jewelleryworld.net.au
REGULARS
6 News
10 Palloy's Points
12 Trade Well with Rami Baron
14 JAA News
46 Keeping Skills Alive
48 Watches
49 New Products
50 Directory
FEATURES
22 A moment in the lustrous limelight
The trends currently bringing nature's most
lustrous gem to the forefront of fashion.
20
28
42
28 Pristine pearls powering on
Australia's homegrown pearl industry thrives
in our unique environment.
36 Wedding and bridal trends
The trends currently driving the love market
this spring and summer.
DISCLAIMER:
This publication may not be reproduced
in whole or part without the written
permission of the Publisher.
Articles express the opinions of the
authors and are not necessarily those of the
Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or
service in this magazine does not indicate the
Publisher’s endorsement.
The Publisher excludes all liability for
loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false
or misleading statements that may appear
in this publication.
All information is copyright.
42 Celebrating Australian designers
The creative expression of our most talented
jewellers extends well beyond the bench.
AUSTRALIA AND NEW
NOVEMBER 2021
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
FRONT COVER
Devino
www.devino.com
4
jewellery world - November 2021

All Silver is Rhodium Plated
All Silver is Rhodium Plated
• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, 2020 (Homebush)
• International • Sydney AGHA Jewellery Gift Fair -September - February 21-24, 12-14, 2020 (Homebush)
(Darling Harbour)
• International Jewellery Fair -September 12-14, 2020 (Darling Harbour)
TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU

News
Royal jewellery and 007
Most observers were so dazzled by the Duchess
of Cambridge’s flowing gold gown at the premiere
of the 25th James Bond film No Time to Die, they
almost didn’t notice the impeccable final touch of
her earrings.
Michael Hill unveils new collection with De Beers Trusted Source
diamonds
Forming an integral part of Michael Hill’s journey towards Corporate Social
Responsibility, the global jewellery brand has announced a range of diamonds from
the De Beers Code of Origin Trusted Source Program. These diamonds are available in
a capsule range within The Solitaire by Michael Hill Collection. A classic engagement
ring style, the Michael Hill Solitaire is designed to showcase a diamond to its utmost
beauty.
The capsule collection features an array of premium diamonds in luxurious carat
weights, set in 18kt gold or platinum. The range is crafted in Australia with the
platinum rings cast in Sydney and hand-finished within Michael Hill’s in-house Brisbane
workshop, while the gold styles are crafted entirely in-house.
Diamonds from the De Beers Code of Origin Trusted Source Program reflect De Beers’
commitment to social and environmental responsibility, giving the wearer additional
peace of mind and a diamond that they can be especially proud to own and wear.
The sparkling golden
chandelier earrings
featuring a rounded
drop design are from
Onitaa, one of the
Duchess’s favourite
jewellery brands. She
previously wore the
earrings during a royal
tour of Pakistan with Prince William in 2019.
Prince Charles and Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall
also attended the premiere. Camilla wore an
embellished pale blue gown with the historical
Diamond Sunburst brooch from the Queen’s
collection. The Diamond Sunburst brooch features
rays of diamonds emanating from a central
diamond cluster and a smaller pendant, and was
a gift to Queen Victoria upon her accession. It
has been worn by royal women to many historical
events, including the coronation of Tsar Nicholas
II of Russia in 1896 and the coronation of Queen
Elizabeth II in 1953. Until the Bond premiere, it
had not been worn publicly since the death of its
previous owner, the Queen Mother in 2002.
The De Beers Code of Origin provides assurance that the wearer’s diamond:
•Is a natural diamond, discovered by De Beers.
•Was discovered in Botswana, Canada, Namibia or South Africa, where it has
helped provide jobs, healthcare and education, with a particular focus on programs
supporting women and girls.
•Is conflict-free and meets De Beers’ industry-leading ethical standards.
•Has helped protect the planet through wildlife conservation and De Beers’
commitment to be carbon neutral by 2030.
“At Michael Hill, responsible and ethical sourcing have long been a key focus,” said
Michael Hill CEO, Daniel Bracken. “Sustainability initiatives continue to be a critical part
of our ongoing Corporate Social Responsibility program, and we are proud to introduce
this range of diamonds with the De Beers Code of Origin. Enabling choice for our
customers will always be a priority at Michael Hill.”
Michael Hill will be releasing the capsule collection at select stores in Australia, New
Zealand and Canada.
6
jewellery world - November 2021

News
Jewellery trends at Milan’s Fashion Week
Milan fashion week was a colourful affair featuring enormous statement necklaces,
earrings and pendants in a range of eye-catching hues. The overriding theme was
nature, represented by designers with flowers, feathers and shells as their materials.
On show were Dolce & Gabanna’s
floral statement jewellery and Giorgio
Armani’s chunky geometric range of
metallic jewellery. Donatella Versace
went with hot pink and neon shades
for the brand’s Medusa motif for
pendants and charms. The Valentino
range featured a colourful panther
carved from coral and jade and set
in gold, pearls and rhinestones to
make an earring that dangled to the
shoulder.
Dolce & Gabanna
Kardashian karats
Reality star Kourtney Kardashian is engaged and,
unsurprisingly, her new engagement ring is enormous
and spectacular. Her new fiancé Travis Barker proposed
during a romantic beachside dinner, and presented her
with a magnificent diamond ring speculatively valued
by experts as between $350,000 and $1,000,000. How
could she say no?
“It appears Travis has bought into the Kardashian
family philosophy of going big and going flashy with
the enormous oval-cut diamond engagement ring he
gave to Kourtney. It looks to be larger than 15 carats
in a pavé or hidden halo setting,” Mike Fried, CEO of
The Diamond Pro, who valued the ring at one million
dollars.
Armani
Wallis Simpson jewels to be
auctioned
A rare royal treasure has come onto the
market with Christie’s preparing to auction
off a Cartier bangle purchased by Duke of
Windsor for his wife to celebrate their first
wedding anniversary in 1937.
The infamous Duke of Windsor - formerly
Edward VIII – abdicated the British throne
in order to marry twice-divorced, Wallis Simpson. The art deco ruby and diamond
bangle which is engraved “for our first anniversary of June 3rd.”
The Duchess of Windsor was partial to rubies and her personal collection included
a Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond brooch, a Christmas gift to Wallis in 1936,
just weeks after the Duke’s abdication from the throne, and a ruby and diamond
necklace from the same designer on her 40th birthday.
This is the first jewellery item of the Duchess to go to auction since the legendary
1987 Sotheby’s auction Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor which raised $50.3 million
dollars for the Pasteur Institute in Paris.
8
jewellery world - November 2021
GIA-certified gemmologist Olivia Landau made a slightly
more modest estimate, saying the ring could be around
8 to 10 carats. “It is set in a skinny platinum solitaire
style with a pavé diamond band. Depending on actual
size and quality it could range between $350,000 and
$650,000.”
Jewellery cleaning pen
A revolutionary new “pen” has come onto the market,
claiming to be the ideal tool for cleaning and polishing
jewellery. The ring cleansing pen by Ring Paradise is said
to remove dust, dirt and oils from your jewellery in just
minutes, so they sparkle like new again.
Filled with a specialised cleaning fluid, the pen has a
soft bristle brush designed to clean between stones and
settings, and the pen provides enough cleanser for 130
cleans. Vegan and cruelty-free, the fluid is formulated to
coat your jewellery with shine-enhancing polymers that
reduce the appearance of scratches.
Currently the cleanser is only available online at
ringparadise.co but the Australian company Ring Paradise
is welcoming new stockists.

News
Identifying melee diamonds
New technology can place permanent identifiers in melee diamonds without
damaging the surface polish, enabling volume manufacturers to secure their
supply chain. Even diamonds as small as 0.5 millimetres in diameter can
feature an alphanumeric sequence, logo or coded shape below the surface,
as a connection to the original brand.
This technology is part of the latest stage of the Natural Diamond Council’s
(NDC) ASSURE Diamond Verification initiative, to recognise and identify
natural diamonds, laboratory-grown diamonds and diamond stimulants.
Obsydia’s unique serial numbers beneath the surface of each stone can
ensure that all diamonds are accurately identified, thereby managing
challenges such as traceability, fraud, counterfeiting and non-disclosure
issues.
"Being able to accurately identify melee diamonds, laboratory-grown
diamonds and diamond simulants will allow the ASSURE program to provide
greater feedback to manufacturers and will contribute towards further
learning, technical advancement and above all, ensure consumer protection,”
said Raluca Anghel, Head of External Affairs and Industry Relations at the
Natural Diamond Council.
Forged diamond inscription
A fake inscription has been discovered on a 1.50 carat, Type
IIa polished diamond, when it was presented to HRD Antwerp
for engraving.
The stone was inscribed
with a GIA laser inscription
which matched a natural
diamond grading report,
with no note of any colour
enhancements. However,
it was found to have
undergone HPHT colour
treatment, and the clarity characteristics did not match the
report. Experts concluded that a lab-diamond resembling
the original diamond’s carat weight, colour and cut had been
intentionally inscribed with a false laser inscription to deceive
buyers.
It is prohibited to pass off a lab-grown diamond as natural.

PALLOYS POINTS
Reza Bapooji,
Business Development Manager
Palloys
READYMADE
ReadyMade is exactly what it says it is. A high-quality product in stock,
ready to dispatch within 24 hours of ordering.
Additionally, it also comes with a
promise that no other jeweller in
Australia can make today.
In stock ready to ship
The purpose of ReadyMade is simple. It’s
about having bestselling designs in stock
ready for delivery to capture those last minute
customers.
The classic engagement rings right through to
the bestselling wedding bands. The products
our clients ask for time and time again. This
repeated demand enables us to anticipate
their requirements and reduce the lead time
for our clients.
Our goal here, is to make the process as easy
as possible for our clients, while offering a
better instore experience for their customers.
By having an extensive library of designs
available for immediate purchase, clients
can accurately provide quotes to customers
immediately. It also helps alleviate the burden
of clients having to carry large amounts of
stock.
This way we have highly sought-after designs
on hand, with only the centre stone required.
This enables our clients to meet to their
consumer’s needs and help them discover
the perfect stone for them. In addition,
Palloys appreciates how many ‘last minute’
consumers there are and the requirement of
speedy turnaround times.
The ‘Australian’ promise only
Palloys can make
Au is often recognised as the chemical
symbol for gold however, it will now begin
to mean something else to the sustainability
conscience millennial consumer. That is, how
ethically sourced is my gold?
ReadyMade is
as much as a
commitment saving
our clients time
as it is to the end
user. All the gold
in the ReadyMade
collection comes
from our sister
company ABC
Refinery. This
means that
ReadyMade gold is made from investment
grade bullion — pure, new gold — that comes
directly from Australian mines, so we actually
know the integrity of the supply chain.
We are the only Australian jewellery company
that can make this commitment to you.
Because we source and control the supply
chain.We want to help you to provide your
customers with Australian sourced and
produced gold. To this end we have developed
our ‘Au’ hallmark to label our rings, confirming
their 100 percent Australian sourced gold
status.
Here at Palloys, we want to support and
help you grow your business, by offering
highly desired items in stock and ready to
ship. ReadyMade allows Palloys’ clients to be
nimble and create a personalised experience
for their customer. The ReadyMade library
isfurther evolving,driven by consumer demand
and feedback.
This is only the beginning of ReadyMade.
There are bigger things to come!
10
jewellery world - November 2021

Shop! ANZ 2021 retail marketing
awards open for entries
Entries are now open for Shop! ANZ’s 24th annual Retail Marketing
Awards, with the best in Australian retail marketing campaigns to be
recognised across 26 categories, covering physical displays and shopper
experience.
The prestigious Shop! Awards recognise and reward best practice,
innovation, and excellence in retail and shopper marketing. Open to both
members and non-members, entrants vie for distinguished gold, silver
and bronze prizes, in addition to the award’s highest honour, the Tom
Harris Retail Marketing Award (named after Shop! ANZ founder, Tom
Harris).
Winners will be presented with the prestigious ‘Point’ trophy, launched
earlier this year, with the awards gala dinner to be the first time in more
than a year that Australian retailer marketers have had to come together
physically to celebrate the trial, challenges, and most importantly,
successes of 2021 amid tough circumstances.
The 2021 Awards will also see the return of two relevant and popular
categories to the awards –‘Field Marketing’, which took a brief hiatus
in 2020, and ‘Campaign Response to a Covid-19 Changing Shopper’,
which recognises the challenges presented to marketers by the ongoing
pandemic.
Carla Bridge, general manager of Shop! ANZ, said that while the second
half of 2021 has been challenging for many, some stand out work has
emerged from the retail marketing space.
“2021 has been a year of ups and downs, but retail marketers in
Australia and New Zealand have taken it all in their stride and continued
to build strong, relevant campaigns and point of sale to engage shoppers
and their changing mindsets,” Ms Bridge said.
“All retail marketers have had to adapt new and existing campaigns
encompassing everything from pre-store, instore and post-store to
entice customers in new and different ways as they navigate the new
retail landscape that has been left by the Covid pandemic.”
Australian and New Zealand designers and producers of retail marketing
material, brand owners, agencies, suppliers, and retailers are eligible to
enter the awards.
For more information, visit www.shopassociation.org.au/about-awards
Time to buy Australian-made
Ph: (03) 9650 5955 Fax: (03) 6950 5977
Email: sales@millenniumchain.com.au
Web: www.millenniumchain.com.au
6th Floor, 313 Lt. Collins St.
Melbourne 3000 Victoria
Millennium Chain
Finished Top 5 in the category of
Best Selling Gold Jewellery Suppliers in
Australia and NZ, as voted by retailers.
millennium_chain

DO YOU LOOK BEYOND YOUR
TYPICAL CUSTOMER?
It’s so easy to think of your customer in terms of the last person who walked through the door.
But have you ever asked yourself why you are only attracting a certain type of customer? Or is it
a certain look of customer that you’re attracting?
The easiest response to this is that you
have a certain style and people who
like that style come to you. I want to
challenge this premise. I will start by saying
that, to a degree, the above statement is
irrefutable, but it’s not as simple or cut and
dry as you might think.
Let’s consider producing a piece of marketing
for your engagement ring segment as an
example. I’m willing to bet that most of you
immediately thought of an image representing
a man proposing to a woman. That’s okay.
Most of us are so conditioned to think in terms
of stereotypical genders that we don’t even
know we’ve been conditioned!
The limitation in our thinking revolves around
our upbringing, or our bias to certain cultures,
and it’s sort of ingrained.
However, I can guarantee that when a person
who is outside your typical customer type
walks into your establishment, you treat them
with total respect and maybe even bend over
backwards to assist them.
Why? Simple. We don’t choose our customers,
they choose us. When it comes to business,
we find ourselves much more open and less
judgemental to the colour of a person’s skin,
age, gender religion or clothing.
If the above makes sense, then the question
you need to ask yourself and your team is how
we can broaden our customer base in the
segment that we are looking to target.
To do this, you might have to look at your
sales team. Are you hiring a type? You know
what I mean. Or are you hiring a broader
demographic. If you want to sell to other
groups, you need to understand them and
the things that appeal to them, or more
importantly, what doesn’t.
How could you ever expect to cater to
the LGBTQ community if you have never
done any homework on what they want
to see, or possibly, have someone in your
workplace who can help you understand their
perspective.
When have you created an Instagram post
that was clearly talking to a specific consumer
segment outside your typical one?
A study by a company called Xandr said
“relevance is the currency of engagement”
12
jewellery world - November 2021

DDCA NEWS
Rami Baron
President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia
rami@ddca.org.au
and that 82 percent of people are looking for things that create an
emotional connection.
There is no better business than jewellery to hit these hot spots
Did you know that that although 5.2 percent of men in Australia
identify as gay, 11 percent of the spend on men’s clothes is by the gay
community. Sadly, we don’t have jewellery statistics.
Did you know that approximately 15 percent of the Australian
community is from an Asian background? Does that reflect in your
customer mix?
I look at the marketing material that we produce and I feel we too suffer
the same narrow focus.
It’s time for all of us to broaden our scope. Don’t be lulled into a false
sense of security that business is so good. You must anticipate the next
step down the road. We are in a bubble. Early next year we will have
a big redirection in spending towards travel. If you start thinking now
about what you need to do, to look beyond your typical customer, you
will have the edge over your competition.
I will add one little gem. If you are planning to broaden your customer
demographic, then don’t try and cover everything. Focus on one
new target market, a timeline to gather the right information, and
communicate with everyone in the business your intentions so that
everyone is on the same page. I have seen marketing campaigns that I
thought were super cool, then when I called up to enquire further, no
one knew what I was even talking about.
Remember, I might be able to give you some good ideas, but that’s the
easy part. It’s all in the execution. And that’s up to you.
Trade well,,, Rami Baron.
02 - 92690991

PRESIDENT'S
MESSAGE
Jo Tory
The month of November will be a busy time for all of us, with the easing of
restrictions across the country as Australia reaches vaccination milestones and
increased spending as a result, and it is a time to harness that opportunity.
It is a busy time for us as well here at the JAA.
The judging of the JAA Australasian Jewellery
Awards will be taking place in November and,
as always, it will be an inspiring program. All of
us at the JAA cannot wait to see what superb
creations will be displayed in the array of
entries – they are always inventive and quite
remarkable. It really is a testament to the
talent in this country.
The People’s Choice will also open at the
beginning of December so please keep an eye
out for when that will commence. People’s
Choice is a great way to display our talent
to the public, to showcase our jewellers and
to raise the profile of the jewellery industry
at large. It is always fascinating to see what
is considered to be of merit in design,
innovation or appeal by a wider audience.
The Awards will be announced and presented
at the JAA 90th birthday celebration on 6th
February 2022. It will be an intimate soiree
held at the Evergreen Room at the Crown
Casino in Melbourne. Please come along – we
would love to see you there. Not just for the
Awards, but also to meet friends, exchange
ideas and stories, and to network.
The JAA AGM will also be held in November,
on the 29th via Zoom. I would encourage any
of our members to participate by having your
say in electing directors and to review our
financials. I am very pleased to say that our
financials are healthy, which gives us so much
more scope to implement the strategy that we
have mapped out for the association and our
members.
November also sees the start of JAA
membership renewals and we now have a
new fee structure that is much simpler and
coherent. If you would like to understand this
new approach, please don’t hesitate to email
us at info@jaa.com.au.
And finally for all those businesses that have
recently opened again, please make sure
that your insurance is up to date and that
you have adequate cover. Many of you will
have an increase of stock in expectation
of very thriving and profitable times
now that restrictions have been relaxed.
Remember that JAA Insurance Services will
give an obligation free quote and does give
preferential rates for JAA members. They can
be visited at jaais.com.au or contacted on
02 8350 9999.
I wish you all a wonderfully successful trading
leading up to Christmas, and may it continue
to boom into the new year.
14
jewellery world - November 2021

"I want recognition"
Your loyalty is recognised through your
JAA membership material including A4
certificate, counter card and window decal
- platinum, gold or silver status
for over 10+ years of membership .
We also offer recognition through the
Lifetime Achievement Award, JAA
Australasian Jewellery Awards and other
programs.
A valued member benefit.
Join today
jaa.com.au/join
CELEBRATING 90 YEARS

WORKSHOP
In 2021, the JAA has run a series of monthly online workshops for
members and the wider industry, and in case you've
missed some, we invite you re-watch them on the JAA website.
We have covered a variety of topics including...
SECURITY
AWARDS & WAGES
IMPORTING & EXPORTING
AUST. CONSUMER LAW
COMPLAINTS RESOLUTION
STANDARDS AUSTRALIA
...and more!
Members can watch for free at

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IN CELEBRATION OF

The portrait of Craig and Philippe was painted by a childhood friend of Philippe’s in France
from a photo and sent as a surprise gift. It now adorns the wall of their office.
The beautiful and ornate architecture
of 350 George Street, where Philippe
Poix and Craig Troy of “Poix & Troy”
established their jewellery business, is a
direct inspiration for their incredible jewellery
designs.
Philippe and Craig spent weeks searching
for the right location and knew immediately
when they walked through the enormous
front doors of the beautiful 19th century
interiors that it was to be home for Poix &
Troy. Fast forward two years and the unique
heritage building, and particularly their lavishly
decorated suite, has been an inspiration for
hundreds of designs and allowed them to
develop their original business motivation —
Passion, Dreams and Lifestyle.
Philippe loves to explore and discover
the magic of the building, drawing huge
inspiration for his designs, particularly from
the top floor and ceiling of 350 George, which
is a kaleidoscope of intricately coloured glass,
surrounded by ornate floral brass designs. It
is truly unique, which Poix & Troy aspire to
reflect in their business and collections.
18
jewellery world - November 2021

Advertisement
Top: A magnificent Poix & Troy “Diva” dome ring in malachite
with emeralds and diamonds set in 18k gold
Centre: Poix & Troy’s unique “Diva” collection, dome ring with
silky lapis lazuli, blue sapphires and diamonds set in 18k gold ring.
Poix & Troy unique collections.
Philippe, a 30 year veteran of the international jewellery industry,
began coming to Australia and New Zealand as a fresh faced
sale person, representing various international brands. Philippe
quickly developed great relationships and warm friendships with
his customers and these are the same customers that gave Poix
& Troy their first appointments.
Craig, a Sydney local, has slotted right into the world of jewellery,
after 20 years in technology-based businesses. Craig loves to
visit customers with Philippe, he has definitely found his home
in jewellery and now also enjoys the same warm
relationship with their customers.
Philippe and Craig are very quick to
acknowledge their success is due
and thanks to their customers across
Australia, New Zealand and the South
Pacific Islands.
“We will forever be thankful to our
amazing retail customers, who have been
supportive and willing to try new designs and unique collections
from day one, including the incredible and
flamboyant Russian brand “Mousson” that Poix &
Troy represent,” said Philippe.
Philippe and Craig are excited to reveal and present their new
collection to their retailers. Poix & Troy have maintained their passion
for a combination of gorgeous colour stones with diamonds. They are
not afraid to use unique and bold colours such as pink opal and jade
which feature in their latest collection. All Poix & Troy pieces are set in
18k gold and the designs and finishes are flawless.
Craig and Philippe have exciting plans for 2022 which include even
bolder and brighter pieces. They also have some amazing haute
couture lines they have been developing with designers in France to
introduce even greater diversity and exquisite pieces to the Australian
and New Zealand market. If you are attending the Jewellery Fair in
Melbourne, you will see Craig and Philippe there or you can expect
a friendly call and visit over the next few months as the world slowly
opens up again.
Mousson is a luxury brand, creating jewellery to
an impeccable standard, using unique gemstones,
incredibly intricate designs with an extremely
high grade of workmanship. Craig and Philippe
knew that the beautiful Mousson pieces would
be extremely well received in Australia and New
Zealand and are so proud to exclusively represent
Mousson in this region. Our customers have
been blown away by the delicate designs and the
magical hidden stories within each piece. We love
showing Mousson and seeing the delight as the
stories unfold.
With Christmas trading so close and a renewed
sense of positivity in Australia and New Zealand,
The incredibly beautiful ceiling of the office of Poix & Troy at 350 George Street, Sydney.

By Stefan Juengling
A MOMENT IN THE LUSTROUS LIMELIGHT:
PEARLS ON TREND FOR ALL
As many jewellery publications will attest, pearls are having a huge moment among
consumers. Their popularity has risen in part due to star power – celebrities seen
wearing pearls and setting trends – but there are many other factors at play driving the
beads of nacre as a force to be reckoned with. Here we spoke to five big name brands
in the Australian pearl industry to find out what these factors are, as well as how pearls
are being worn, and what makes them so attractive to consumers.
Paspaley
The Cultured Pearl Association of
America and MVI Marketing recently
conducted a study to find out how
consumers respond to pearls and pearl
jewellery. The study was titled, “The
Benchmark Study of Consumer Preferences for
Pearls” and in it, 1012 US jewellery consumers
who bought at least US $200 of fine jewellery
in the past three years were surveyed. Their
findings showed that pearls are already a
consumer favourite, with most consumers
(66 percent of respondents) indicating they
at least own one pearl jewel and of those, 69
percent of them own a strand and 62 percent
own pearl earrings.
When probed on these findings
Creative Director of Linneys,
Justin Linney, said that he
believed pearls are an
essential part of every
woman’s wardrobe.
“The study results are
fantastic and show the
demand for pearls is still
strong,” he said.
“Pearls are part of our history in Australia,
they are an iconic gem and for this reason my
expectation is that demand will remain strong
in Australia for years to come.”
Managing Director of Pacific Pearl Pty Ltd,
William He, took a wholistic view in regards to
the study’s findings.
“In terms of cultural heritage, the traditional
British culture has always influenced
Australia,” he said.
“It is often said that look at the women of the
British royal family: there is no one who does
not wear pearl jewellery.”
He also said in the past 20 years, their
pearl jewellery sales have rapidly
increased, especially between
2000 and 2013.
“Pearl earrings and necklaces
are the main pearl jewellery
pieces we sell.”
Rudi Zingg is Pearl Master
at Devino, a well-known and
Devino
respected pearl wholesaler, and he said that
pearls have been popular for a long time,
but new designs and styles have made pearls
more relatable to modern lifestyles and a
contemporary choice for every day.
Linneys
20
jewellery world - November 2021

Paspaley
What pearl pieces are popular
As shown above in the study results, pearl
strands and earrings will always remain the
most popular among pearl jewellery, so we
sought to discover what other types of pearl
jewellery consumers are driven to.
Executive Director of Paspaley, Peter Bracher,
said necklaces featuring pearls with additional
design elements are very popular at the
moment.
“For example, strands with multiple pearl
shapes or colours, long necklaces featuring
pearls and designed motifs in precious metals
or stones and, particularly, long necklaces and
strands that can be worn in a variety of ways,”
he said.
Vina by Pinaroo is a
major Australian brand
specialising in sterling silver
jewellery set with cubic
zirconia, pearl, turquoise
and other semi-precious
stones. Founder and
managing director Vina
Lambert said that pearl
rings, pendants, and
bracelets have always
remained popular.
Rudi said that at Devino,
unique shapes and colours
are very popular.
Pinaroo
“We are selling a lot of multi-colour strands
and baroque-shaped pearls,” he said.
“Long necklaces from
70-100cm are (also) very
popular.”
At Pacific Pearl, William
said that the proportion
of overall sales for pearl
pendants are relatively
high compared to
necklaces and
earrings.
Justin said that
pearl pendants
on fine chains
are very popular at
the moment, closely
followed by pearl rings.
Millennials’ budding penchant for
pearls
The study also showed that consumers
aged between 25 and 35 also think pearls
are an ideal gem to give, buy or receive for
themselves.
Devino
Paspaley
Peter said that in recent years, there
has been a move towards luxury
goods that allow greater expression
of individuality, and that pearls allow
just that, which is ideal for the highly
expressive younger market.
“The enormous variety of shapes,
sizes and colour of South Sea pearls
are perfectly suited to creative
jewellery design that allows
each piece to express the
individuality of the wearer
rather than being identical to
another piece of jewellery,” he
said.
At Devino, Rudi said his team
have seen pearls everywhere
from costume jewellery, freshwater pearls,
Akoya, Tahitian, and South Sea pearls.
“There is something for all budgets, any
occasion and every age,” he said.
For William, millennials’ attraction to pearls
rings true, because from his point of view,
November 2021 21

“The younger demographic are exposed
heavily to this imitation pearl costume
jewellery, creating more demand for real
pearls as well, so it can be assumed that there
is a percentage of these pearl admirers who
will then decide to purchase real pearls in fine
jewellery.”
Vina said pearl jewellery has been showing
up on Instagram feeds, especially freshwater
varieties which she said have become a
favourite among trendsetters and influencers
to create fresh fashion-forward style.
“What took me by surprise
is that it is not just a
single pearl pendant that
has become popular but
strands and, sometimes,
many strands worn
together.”
Vina said pearls would make
an elegant and unique
choice for and engagement
ring, and also more
affordable than diamonds.
Linneys
women only gradually become interested in
pearls and pearl jewellery from age 30. He
said women aged between 25 and 30 are
more interested in other types of consumer
products.
“Even if someone occasionally has an interest
in pearl jewellery, they are more willing to try
artificial ones to experience it and have the
opinions from family or friends instead of real
pearls,” he said.
He also described
imbuing a love
for pearls in
younger people is a
challenging issue.
Justin also drew
attention to the
popularity of
imitation pearls as
a way to appeal to
the younger market
and potentially lead
them to genuine pearl
purchases.
“Imitation pearls are being used in fashion
for embellishment and this flows through to
costume jewellery,” he said.
Devino
Devino
Pearls on men, pearl engagement
rings and other pearl oddities
Both celebrities and younger consumers are
also the ones driving new trends in pearls
such as pearls on men (Pharrell Williams,
Harry Styles) and pearl engagement
rings (Emma Stone, Ariana
Grande). Rudi concedes that
it’s hard to compete with
the traditional diamond
engagement ring,
but has noticed
an increase in
male celebrities
wearing pearl
necklaces and used
on a number of
catwalks, showing
how versatile
pearls can be.
At Paspaley, Peter
has heard anecdotal
Devino
reports of increases in pearl
engagement ring, but nothing significant.
“I think the diamond engagement ring is here
to stay but I wouldn’t be surprised if pearls
make up a larger proportion of that market in
the years to come,” he said.
However, he said the increase in the number
of men wearing pearls was dramatic.
Justin has also noticed more men wearing
pearls, and with Linneys black pearl neoprene
bracelet, it makes it even easier for men.
The modern appeal of the pearl
As reported in a feature article in The Sydney
Morning Herald, stylist Mattie
Cronan from Women’s
Weekly said that pearls
are in fashion now, but
actually timeless, and
that’s the light that
comes off them, their
organic shapes and
their one-of-a-kind
nature which makes
them so attractive
to women. All our
contributors agreed and
added their own reasons
for pearls’ popularity.
For William, it’s the variety and
tone of the colours produced during
their natural growth cycle.
“The peacock tone in Tahitian black pearls,
the light pink and light orange colours in
Pacific Pearls
22
jewellery world - November 2021

creatures rather than being cut or
manufactured into precise forms like
other materials.
Linneys
freshwater pearls, and the silver grey in
South Sea pearls, are highly sought after
by consumers,” he said.
“Economically the pearl price is relatively
moderate, which makes it easier to make
pearl jewellery the first choice for
dressing up or giving away to relatives
and friends.”
At Linneys, Justin said consumers
appreciate them because they are not
cut or polished like all other gems, making
them especially naturally beautiful
“Linneys customers also like having Australian
South Sea pearls due to the fact that they are
Australian grown, and
are being set in jewellery
handcrafted in our
design studio in Western
Australia using Australian
gold,” he said.
Peter said he believes that
Linneys the romance in the way in which
pearls are found and produced, and the
mystique and beauty of pearls as physical
objects are two fundamental sides to their
appeal.
“Natural pearls appear almost miraculously
inside a living organism at the bottom of
pristine oceans,” he said.
“With cultured pearls, some of the chance
is removed from the process but, at least for
Australian South Sea pearls, the romantic
aspect of divers seeking treasure from the
ocean remains.”
He said their appeal as physical objects is
partly related to their formation inside living
“Although different pearls may have
many similarities, each one also has
unique characteristics that give them a
personality. I believe this individuality
is one of the things that makes them so
captivating.”
Lustre is the most captivating aspect of
pearls for Rudi, who added that lustre can
make any pearl stand out.
“It is important to always choose pearls
with the best lustre,” he said.
“Other factors such as colour, shape and
size are down to personal choice – some
colours will suit certain skin tones better than
others and some people will want perfect
round shapes while others prefer the irregular
baroque shapes.”
Vina said that pearls symbolise luxury and
elegance.
A lustrous future ahead
As for what the future holds for Australia’s
pearl industry, while he admits
he’s reluctant to try make
forecasts or predictions,
Peter said three factors
bode well for the
popularity of pearl
jewellery. These
factors are human’s
genetic predisposition
for adornment, that
concerns about social
and environmental issues
will grow in importance and
sustainability and will become
an essential cornerstone of all
luxury products, and the growing tendency for
people to desire things that are not electronic,
Linneys
synthetic or identical to those of our families
and friends.
“Unlike a smart phone or handbag which
is identical to many
others and entirely
man-made, pearls
have an individual
character and an
inextricable connection
to nature that I believe
will only become more
desirable as the world continues to become
more urbanised and homogenous,” he said.
Pinaroo
Devino
William had a couple of reasons of his own
to be optimistic about the future of pearls
and the pearl industry: the first being
that despite pearls being
cultivated, they are grown
and formed in the natural
environment, which
limits their production
quantity. He said that
in the past five to
eight years, the local
governments of several
Chinese provinces
have banned the
cultivation of freshwater
pearls, in order to reduce
environmental pollution.
24
jewellery world - November 2021

IP107-9YK
Paspaley
“This caused the price of
freshwater pearls to dramatically
increase,” he said.
His second reason is aesthetic:
that when pearls are paired with
precious metals or other gems,
the beauty of life is prominent.
IP3556N-9YG
Echoing similar sentiments, Rudi
said that pearls are here to stay
and will continue to be popular
as long as we look after our
environment and the oysters which
produce these natural gems.
“Fashion will continue to change
however pearls are so versatile that they can be
adapted to the latest trends,” he said.
Justin said he and his team at Linneys are excited to
continue creating innovative designs featuring pearls.
“Each pearl is unique and presents new design
opportunities,” he said.
IKE03-9YG
IP82-G014-9Y
Pearls are part of our history in
Australia, they are an iconic gem
and for this reason my expectation
is that demand will remain strong
in Australia for years to come.
IP82-G014-9YB
LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY
Tel: (02) 9266 0636 | enquiries@ikecho.com.au
www.ikecho.com.au

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By Stefan Juengling
PRISTINE PEARLS POWERING ON:
AUSTRALIA’S PRIME PEARL INDUSTRY
Australia’s pearls are some of the largest, most lustrous, and sought by buyers all over
the world. Yet there’s an arduous process involved, lots of infrastructure and many
technical skills required to bring them from oyster farm to pearl strand. Here we spoke to
two big name pearl brands, Paspaley and Devino, to get a glimpse into the magic behind
Australia’s glimmering pearl industry.
A motherload of infrastructure,
investment and innovation
Peter Bracher is executive director of
Australia’s largest pearl producer Paspaley
which operates 12 of Australia’s 16 pearl
farms. He described pearl production in
Australia as an expensive exercise requiring
significant cashflow that will not see a return
on investment for at least three years. He also
said that cost of production is higher than in
South Asia, especially in regards to the cost of
labour.
“We will never be able to compete with other
regions in labour costs,” he said.
“To be competitive we focus on producing
higher quality pearls through innovation and
investment.”
He said that all pearl farmers produce pearls
ranging from low grade with almost no value
through to gem quality pearls.
“What differentiates producers is the
proportion of their harvest that falls into the
higher grades vs the lower grades.
“Paspaley consistently produces a high
proportion of high-quality pearls.”
He credits his uncle Nick Paspaley AC for
developing the cultivation systems that allow
this high-quality pearl yield but concedes that
both the systems and the infrastructure are
very expensive.
“A vessel like our mothership the Paspaley 4
would cost over $50 million to build today.
“It is only one of the high bars to producing
gem-quality pearls, but it is essential to the
quality of our production.”
The pearl industry in Australia relies on landbased
and off-shore infrastructure, as well as
the not-insignificant cost of hiring experienced
Japanese technicians to work farms at various
times of the year.
Devino is a well-known and respected
Australian pearl wholesaler which has been
Paspaley
28
jewellery world - November 2021

supplying some of the world’s most beautiful pearls to the jewellery
trade across Australia, New Zealand and the rest of the world since
1984. We spoke to Rudi Zingg and his daughter Caroline Zingg about
the state of Australian pearl production.
Paspaley
Rudi explained about the difference between producing pearl with
wild shell and hatchery shell around the world.
“Using divers to collect wild oysters is very expensive and, in addition,
there is a quota set by the Australian government of how many shells
can be collected per year. Hence, wild shells are very costly.
“As an alternative solution to this problem, farmers [elsewhere
around the world] began collecting spat and growing oysters in
hatcheries in shallow water until they reach maturity to be operated.
“Today there is no shortage of hatchery shell and most pearl farms
around the world rely on this method.”
However, as Peter points out, the majority of oysters used for pearl
production in Australia are wild, not from hatcheries.
“A hatchery shell,” says Rudi, “does not have the same size, strength
or resistance [as a wild shell] and therefore must be seeded with a
smaller nucleus to produce its first pearl.”
Australia’s unique pearl farming advantage
Of course, the cost to use wild oysters over hatchery oysters is not
without its benefits. Peter said that Australia’s wild oysters produce
pearls that are by far and away the best in the world with an average
price several times higher than any other region in the wholesale
market.

“This is because of their superior size, white
colour and exceptional natural lustre.
“One reason for the larger size of our pearls is
that we predominantly use wild oysters which
are significantly larger than hatchery oysters.
Another is that we allow a minimum of two
years for the pearl to
develop before harvesting.
Some regions harvest after
much shorter husbandry
periods.”
As for fishing limits, Peter
said this has been to the
Australian pearl industry’s
benefit.
“Because of the strict
regulation of our wild
fishery since the early
1980’s, Australia has
the world’s last viable
population of Pinctada
maxima.
Devino
“This, combined with our
processes and infrastructure, is what allows us
to produce such a different product to the rest
of the world.
Rudi drew attention to Australia’s climate
conditions which are highly conducive to
pearl farming, with a summer which speeds
up the growth with warm water temperature
and a cooler winter, near harvest time, which
improves the colour and lustre due to lower
water temperatures.
“If water conditions are too warm, the species
reacts differently, and the nacre grows faster
but often with reduced
quality in lustre and colour.”
In addition to better climate
conditions, Caroline said
Australia’s reliance on wild
oyster shells are stronger
than hatchery shells.
“A hatchery oyster is not as
strong as a wild oyster, so it
often can’t handle a second
or third operation; whereas
a wild oyster is usually older
and much stronger,” she
said.
The pearls around
the world
Devino
Of course, the famed South Sea Cultured Pearl
from the Pinctada maxima is just one part
of the global pearl industry. The Akoya, the
Tahitian and freshwater pearls are some of
the other major types of pearls. Rudi said the
Akoya pearl is produced mostly in Japan and
comes from the small Pinctada fucata oysters
which make white pearls from about 2 to
9mm, but predominantly 6 to 8.5mm.
As for the black Tahitian pearl produced by
the black lip Pinctada margaritifera oysters
in the Pacific Islands, Rudi said pearl farming
in the South Pacific was actually started by
the French who initially had a monopoly on
the farms before the Chinese and other locals
took over producing pearls in Tahiti.
Peter said that over-production is part of
reason for the reduction in the number of
producers in Tahiti. He said that 20 years ago,
their production was a fraction of what it is
today, but they focused on quality, so they
produced exceptional pearls.
“Unfortunately for their industry, almost
anyone with access to a lagoon was permitted
to grow pearls and the result was a huge
overproduction of low-quality pearls that
caused the value of Tahitian pearls to crash.”
Besides Australia, the Pinctada maxima
oyster that produces the South Sea Pearl,
is commonly also found in Indonesia, the
Philippines and Myanmar. There are slight
variations of shell: the ‘white lip’ producing
white and silver pearls (mainly Australia
and Indonesia), the ‘gold lip’, producing
gold, cream and yellow pearls (mainly in the
Philippines, Myanmar and Indonesia).
“In Indonesia, pearls are mostly from 8-14mm,
whereas in Australia, pearls are mostly from
10-16mm,” Rudi said.
Even among South Sea pearls of the same
colour, there’s a huge variation in shape with
round just being one type among the oval,
drop, and the much-desired baroque shapes.
Rudi said that generally, worldwide, there is
a fight for farms to survive due to production
Paspaley

Devino
costs and diverse other problems. Some of the main issues he
pointed to are the difficulties inherent in hatchery breeding, such
as securing mother oysters and recessive heredity, and the El Nino
and La Nina phenomena, global warming, and ocean acidification.
Aside from Akoya pearls and pearls out of Myanmar, the world saw
a decrease in pearl production
between 2009 and 2015, but
Peter says Australian production
is now stable or slightly
increasing.
Pearl industry proves
resilient despite COVID
disruptions
Like most industries, the
pandemic caused serious
disruptions to production, trade and access to labour in the pearl
industry. Peter said the pandemic affected Paspaley’s distribution
because a large part of their distribution is through the auctions
they hold four times a year in Hong Kong and Japan around major
trade shows.
Devino
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“In early 2020 Australia closed its international borders and travel
between states within Australia was either restricted or completely
prohibited.
Devino

“It also became apparent that
trade shows and auctions would be
impossible for the foreseeable future.”
In addition, these restrictions impacted
the Japanese technicians who come to
Paspaley’s Darwin base of operations
each season, but had to travel through
New South Wales to get there (and
subsequently quarantine at each border
crossing). It all threw a major curveball
to Paspaley. Peter said it took a great
deal of work to develop the protocols
that allowed production to continue in
2020, which included negotiations with
many different government bodies whose approval was required.
“To allow our distribution to continue we developed and launched two
online wholesale portals: the first allowed us to hold online auctions,
the second ensures that wholesalers, retailers and manufacturers can
source pearls whenever they need them.
“Fortunately, after a short dip in demand during the first half of 2020,
the market strengthened, and prices and demand are now stronger
than they were before COVID.”
Devino
The vital importance of Japan
Japan was the creator and perfector of cultured pearls, and remains
integrally involved in every facet of the global pearl industry.
“About 60% of the total pearl industry (the goods) go through Japan,”
Rudi said.
“The Japanese have the knowledge, and when they get the crops,
they make the necklaces, they do the sorting and the distributing to
wholesalers around the world.”
He said that
Japan is still very
important, not
only in making,
treating, polishing
the pearl goods,
but they are also
vital to Australia’s
pearl industry.
“This is one of
Paspaley’s advantages: they have Japanese technicians who come in
during the harvest period to operate.
Devino
“The Japanese technicians are so good in knowing what seed, what size
of nuclei, how to operate, where to operate.”
Peter echoed similar sentiments: that Japan is still the most important
trading and distribution hub for saltwater pearls.
“China has become the most important consumer market but Japan is
still the biggest buying region at our auctions.
“Japan also produces the best pearl technicians: our pearl technicians
are all Japanese and there is no doubt that they are the best in the
world.”
Why can’t pearls be given an international standard of
quality?
This question is sometimes posed by consumers: there is an
international standard for diamonds and coloured gemstones, but
why is there not one for pearls, and will there ever be one? Both of
Paspaley

our experts do not believe it’s possible. Rudi said that every farm has a
different standard, as does everyone on the internet, and so pearls must
be described rather than graded.
“We describe the pearl (by) saying it has an excellent lustre or a few spots
rather than saying it’s an A1 or A2.
“You can’t go to Japan and ask for
an A1 pearl, they won’t know what
you’re talking about.”
He described the difficulty in grading
pearls as being akin to grading opals,
which he said are impossible to
standardize.
“Every opal is different, every pearl
is different.
“A pearl is not something you
should sell by quality, a pearl is a
product which you have to buy like a
painting: you like it, to hang it on the
wall, to look at it, well the pearl you
have to enjoy wearing it.”
Devino
However Rudi and Caroline both stipulated that lustre is the most
important factor.
Peter believes an international standard would be neither possible or
useful in the pearl industry because the various types of pearls – Akoya,
Tahitian, Australian South Sea, Indonesian South Sea etc. – are as
different from each other in appearance, rarity and value as different
types of stones.
“It would not serve
any purpose to grade
a diamond in the same
way as an emerald or an
amethyst.
“For the same reasons, it
would not make sense to
grade a freshwater pearl,
an Australian South Sea
pearl and a Tahitian pearl
in the same way.”
However, Peter did
say it would be helpful
Paspaley
to one day to have an
independent certification assuring appropriate standards of social and
environmental responsibility in the production of various types of pearls.
LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY
Tel: (02) 9266 0636 | enquiries@ikecho.com.au
www.ikecho.com.au

ATHAN
IMPORTERS OF
FINE ITALIAN
JEWELLERY
18CT SPECIALISTS
Vale Neville Gregory
1934 - 2021
Last month, the Australian watchmaking world
mourned the passing of a giant. Neville Gregory
will be sorely missed by all who knew him.
Born in 1934 in Temora (north of Wagga Wagga), young Neville began
an apprenticeship when he was 14 years old. Times were tough for
his family and his father had asked him to leave school and find a job.
Neville applied for work with jewellers and watchmakers Nicholson &
Co and was initially rejected, only securing the position after the first
application was found to be unsuitable.
Nicholson & Co were old-school jewellers who taught Neville the trade
in both jewellery making and watch making. Neville stayed with the
company for ten years.
In 1958, he met and married Patricia Mulcahy and moved with her
to Griffith where he was offered the position of manager for Speirs
Jewellers. Neville and Patricia’s three children were born in Griffith and
Neville also began a small jewellers co-operative.
This co-operative, initially started to ease stock buying issues for
its members, became known as the Hourglass Group, and grew to
become one of Australia’s largest companies of this type. Neville was
an early director of the group which, at one point, occupied two floors
of a building in Kent Street, Sydney, and had over 100 members.
By the 1970s, with nearly 25 years
experience in the industry at that
stage, Neville and Patricia followed
their dream and opened their own
business in a store in Gladstone,
Queensland, named Neville
Gregory Watchmaker.
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employing an additional
watchmaker and jeweller and
sales staff. Neville was always generous with his valuable knowledge,
passing on skills to all who worked with him. With Patricia at his side,
the pair worked hard to make their business the best it could be.
In 1986, the store moved to the local shopping centre and only in
recent years, after Neville retired from the shop’s watchmaking bench,
has it closed. Neville was still doing minor repairs at home until only
recently.
Neville was a true gentleman and was widely respected in the
Gladstone community for his contributions. He survived by his wife,
Patricia.

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BRIDAL AND
WEDDING TRENDS
To any pandemic couple, the last two years have been hellish. Weddings were
rescheduled, relocated and reformatted more times than any bride and groom
might care to count. Some couples held a Zoom ceremony and some planned a
big celebration for when times were better. That time, we hope, is now — and
it’s interesting to take a look at how bridal and wedding trends have weathered
the pandemic.
Peter W Beck
Worth & Douglas
Covid lockdowns changed everything, but
they particularly changed tying the knot.
Now we’re free to mix and mingle again,
many couples are naturally excited about
throwing the celebration of a lifetime. But,
the changes wrought by the pandemic have
brought an unexpected and exciting array
of bridal jewellery trends and here we talk
to some of Australia and New Zealand’s
wedding jewellery experts about what’s on
the horizon.
It’s always personal
Not surprisingly, the strongest bridal jewellery
trends right now are all about custom-made.
After such difficult times, the desire to
craft jewellery that anchors meaning and
endurance is stronger than ever.
“Custom-made is increasing dramatically,”
says Chris Botha, the Innovation Manager
at Palloys and he says that retail jewellers
are benefiting from this with the help of
technology and strategic partnerships with
companies such as Palloys.
“Customers are now coming to retail
jewellers with a variety of requests, such
as pairing a different stone, changing the
shanks, and mixing other styles. In terms of
custom-made, the pure retail jeweller has
boomed insanely. The industry has changed
and custom-made jewellery has become more
of a bespoke business.”
At New Zealand-based Worth & Douglas, Chris
Worth has seen a similar rise in personalised
bridal jewellery.
“Yes, the interest in bespoke engagement and
wedding rings is continuing to grow,” he says.
“The trend for one-of-a kind pieces is very
prevalent with more couples looking to create
custom-designed wedding rings by adding
Palloys
their own personal
touches.
“Often from pictures
on their phones of the
ring style they need, or simply
changing material, stone shape, or wedding
rings engraved with names, wedding date, a
personal message or a diamond on the inside
of the band.”
There’s always been a level of sentimentality
attached to jewellery and it only makes sense
that wedding jewellery now enjoys the same
level of personalisation and intentionality.
Jewellery designed specifically for such a
longed-for event will have an extra depth
of meaning, and technology is now readily
available to make bespoke wedding jewellery
easily available to any retailers wishing to
present a ‘personalised wedding package’, or
direct to any happy couple.
Greville Ingham, National Sales Manager
at Peter W Beck says personalised bridal
jewellery is now a large part of their offering.
36
jewellery world - November 2021

OUR TEAM IS HERE TO SUPPORT YOU:
Toll Free 1800 888 585 | Email customerservice@pwbeck.com.au
14 Duncan Court, Ottoway Park, SA, 5013 Australia
Toll Free 1800 888 585 | Email customerservice@pwbeck.com.au | Web www.pwbeck.com.au

Worth & Douglas
Ethically-sourced materials
“We are seeing a huge calling for custom made, and particularly
personalised designs,” Greville says. “We can produce really anything
that a customer can imagine working across all departments from
CAD and casting through to laser engraving and stone setting to create
a personalised piece. We have seen increasing popularity of this full
service, custom process over the last few years and expect that this
trend is here to stay.”
At Palloys, Chris Botha says the trend has been ramping up over recent
years to the point where the industry is now completely changed.
“It has virtually tripled in the last five years with mass customisation
rapidly outpacing mass production. Since 2018, there has been a
substantial increase in jewellers at all levels of the industry using
CAD and CAM. We have observed a shift in our casting cycle, from 30
percent of it being CAD the rest of it being wax injections or customer
supplied material to now almost 45 percent of it being CAD,” he says.
Today’s couples are increasingly interested in knowing where their
jewellery comes from. An awareness of the origin of a piece goes
hand-in-hand with the personalisation trend, and responsibly sourced
diamonds or metals are a critical part of that.
“Sustainably and ethical materials, particularly Australian source gold
and silver” are a rapidly increasing trend, according to Chris at Palloys.
Lab-grown diamonds have become a popular sustainable
option that speaks to many brides and grooms and wellprepared
retailers would be wise to have lab-grown
options available as well as conflict-free mined stones.
Timeless styles
The Bustle Digital Group is
an online Millennial
and Gen Z focussed
publisher who made
the quirky realisation
that earrings are set
Peter W Beck
Loose Diamonds Wholesaler
Ellendale Yellow & Argyle Pinks
Blues | Champagnes | Yellows | Whites
Desert Rose Jewellery Manufacturer
Ph:08 6180 1562 | E: sales@ellendalediamonds.com.au
@ellendalediamonds @ellendalediamondsL

Vina's Jewellery
to be especially big this season, mostly
due to the fact that we’ve all been on
Zoom for so long and now have trouble
recognising anything below the shoulder.
Vina Lambert of Vina’s Jewellery agrees
and says earrings are going to be the
focus of all the wedding photos this season.
Vina’s Jewellery, formerly Pinaroo Jewellery has
established itself as a leader in sterling silver jewellery
pieces, set with cubic zirconia. The brand is available to stockists
throughout Australia and New Zealand.
Palloys
Drop earrings, she says, particularly
those that feature plenty of sparkle,
are timeless items for the bride and
bridal party.
In terms of wedders, Chris Worth says
plain bands are still the most popular.
“We are seeing more demand for textured finishes however, as well
as fine diamond rings in personalised and custom makes.”
Chris Botha has seen a definite increase in patterns with delicate
designs on wedders and signet rings.
“Geometric jewels such as kite shapes and hexagons are now popular
design trends,” he says. “Consumers love engravings on pendants,
and rings that can be personalised. Layering and stacking are two
other strong design trends along with Australian parti sapphires and
opals being a popular choice among buyers. Geometrically formed
clusters and unusual shaped stones are also on-trend.
Greville also sees stackable rings on
bridal wish-lists.
“In ladies styles, we
are seeing increasing
popularity of fine,
dainty, stackable rings
worn together to create
a personalised mix of
designs suited to the wearers
unique style,” he says.
Worth & Douglas
Black is back and mixed metals
Men’s wedding jewellery has taken a definite turn toward textured
finishes, says Chris Worth.
“ZiRO – The Black Ring and other alternative metals such as Titanium
have been popular. Two-tone and diamond set, including white or
black diamond is still very popular for men.”
Greville at Peter W Beck agrees.

Vina's Jewellery
“In men’s styles, our black
and natural Zirconium styles
have enjoyed great popularity
since being introduced into the
range about 5 years ago,” he says.
“We’re seeing continued popularity
of our perennial, classic wedding band
styles — generally trending toward narrower widths for both men and
women.”
Greville adds that carrying an array of styles can also help a retailer
cater to traditional and same-sex couples who like to create matching
sets.
“Many Peter W Beck styles can be matched to create a matched
wedding set. There are many clever ways to put together a perfect
pair, from matching the designs, metals, stones, or even widths. Each
partner's ring can be unique to their own style, while still matching
with their pair.”
The bridal party
Planning jewellery for the entire event means matching jewellery for
the bridal party, and tradition usually states that the brides shows her
appreciation with a special gift that can be a keepsake forever. The
gift could be a bracelet or a pendant that mirrors the bride’s theme
– whether she chose sparkling accessories or a chunky modern style.
Vina Lambert of Vina’s Jewellery suggests giving a jewellery item that is
suitable for everyday wear as well as special events.
“A sparkling gift for your main gals will not only show them how much
you appreciate them, but will also give them something to remember
your special day.”
The flower girl and any other attendants are often gifted a child-sized
version of the bridal gift as a souvenir of the day. Vina’s Jewellery stocks
pretty necklaces with sparkle pendants that are topped with cubic
zirconias. “This makes a simply stunning gift for little flower girls,” says
Vina.
Affordable costume jewellery
The flip-side of all the bespoke fine jewellery trends is another strong,
emerging trend for weddings right now — and that is budget bijoux.
Social distancing is still very much a thing and many couples have
realised the huge wedding bash is no longer essential. Intimate, cool
and funky celebrations — backyard parties, courthouse weddings and
elopements — are just as valid in this brave new post-Covid world. As
such, many retailers are seeing a lot of fun costume jewellery coming
into the mix.
Eye-catching statement jewellery doesn’t need to break the bank
and, after almost two years of planning, re-planning and re-planning
a wedding, if you’re selling jewellery to a couple who have decided
their big hoorah is going to be stress-free, it’s important to have a good
range of modern, colourful and fun costume jewellery in stock. Think
semi-precious and bursting with colour and personality.

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Jewellery Industry Network
Laura Moore,
Managing Director
LauraM@JewelleryIndustryNetwork.com
JEWELLERY INDUSTRY FAIR
IT’S TIME TO BUILD!
The Jewellery Industry Fair is only a few months away, and the industry can’t wait for its first
dedicated jewellery event for the season!
Now in February 2022, the Jewellery
Industry Fair is the fourth event run
by the Jewellery Industry Network
with the most recent one being the Jewellery
Industry Summit in July. The Fair in Melbourne
will give jewellers and retailers from all over
Australia a chance to find new ranges, meet
new suppliers and see exhibitors who have
some of the countries most incredible pieces
of fine jewellery.
The Fair sees a host of fine jewellery suppliers
and some of the country’s leading natural and
lab grown diamond suppliers attending the
Fair this Summer.
Showcase Jewellers is also set to welcome
its members and guests to its Members Area
inside the Fair with a special lounge.
Many of the Jewellery Industry Fair exhibitors
have not been seen at a trade fair in many
years, or in fact are new to the industry and
launching their brand to jewellers for the first
time at the JIF 2022.
Also attending the Fair are four of the
industry’s associations — the GAA, NCJV, JAA
and Goldsmith Guild all exhibiting to support
their members.
The Jewellery Industry Network will be
injecting unique elements to the Fair for
guests to really immerse themselves in the
industry and the manufacturing process.
Guests can expect to find out more about
education for jewellers, learn about
sustainable business practises, and can find
out more about the process of jewellery
manufacturing.
Celebrations will really kick off on Sunday
the 6thof February at the Crown Casino at
the end of the first day of the Fair, with the
JAA Jewellery Design Awards and winners
announced at a beautiful soiree sponsored
by Your Diamonds and Showcase Jewellers.
Tickets are available to purchase via the JAA
website.
With new fresh exhibitors, trusted and
known brands and suppliers, and luxurious
experiences all at an inner city Melbourne
Oasis, the Jewellery Industry Fair is the perfect
way to start 2022.
Free guest tickets can be booked online now
at www.jewelleryindustryfair.com
42
jewellery world - November 2021

The Jewellery Industry Network
CELEBRATING AUSTRALIAN
DESIGNERS
Established to represent all aspects of the jewellery industry, the Jewellery Industry Network has
now released a range of merchandise to celebrate Australian jewellery designers.
The range of merch comes after the JIN
team saw so many creative expressions
in its network of jewellers and wanted
to give them an outlet to showcase other sides
of their creativity.
The Celebrating Australian Designers series
kicks off with Michael Mooney from Serpent
Cove, one of Australia’s most dynamic
jewellery designers, creating pieces that link to
stories of adventure and mystery. His designs
are bold, original and striking with intricate
details to relay the characters and scenes of
the stories they represent.
Mooney's artwork for Jewellers Co. is based
on a bench jewellers life.
“We often get into such a flurry or making
and twisting metals that we get lost, only to
finish for the day and come back to the bench
and wonder, Who made all this mess? Was it
me? Surely it must have been those gremlins,
crawling out onto the bench and using our
saw frames for bows, and burrs for arrows,”
joked Mooney.
The artwork has been created around two
artistic interpretations of the Jewellers Co.
logo. The larger logo works around the
gremlins and tools, and the second one has
been used as a standalone logo which JIN has
used on the front of caps and T-shirts.
Mooney was
part of the
2021 online
Bench Jewellers
Championships
which was run
by JIN as part
of the Jewellery
Industry Virtual
Fair. Mooney
took home the championship title with his
moving crab pendant.
The Celebrating Australian Designers series
will continually add new artworks from
different designers, giving the industry and the
public and insight into a different side of the
creative expression of an Australian jeweller.
Merchandise can be purchased through the
Jewellery Industry Network portal.
www.jewelleryindustrynetwork.com
November 2021 43

HARDY BROTHERS:
AN AUSTRALIAN EXEMPLAR REIMAGINED
An Australian icon since 1853 and this country’s oldest continually operating fine jeweller, Hardy
Brothers will open its new Sydney flagship store with a complete brand transformation. The new
experience aims to modernise the brand, appealing to a new generation of luxury shoppers while
remaining true to the Hardy Brothers’ heritage in an uncertain, digital-centric market.
Fine jewellery and watches hit by
COVID worldwide
With 2019 sales of over $329 billion globally,
fine jewellery and watches are significant
industries for global business and represent
meaningful cultural assets that have reflected
human preoccupations with creativity, status,
symbolism, and self-expression for centuries.
Yet, uncertainty during the COVID-19
pandemic saw global revenue declines of
10-15 and 25-30 percent, respectively, putting
strain on slow-to-adapt players without a
digital presence and crystallising emerging
market trends that show younger consumers
and online sales will gain new momentum by
2025.
Hardy Brothers was an early adopter of digital
transformation and relaunched a new website
in December 2019, just before the world
changed.
“Our initial expectations were to drive focus
and traffic to our boutique experience and
present a consistent brand message through
our digital channels,” explained Alexander
Bishop, Hardy Brothers brand manager.
The website launch was well executed and
well rewarded as Hardy Brothers successfully
navigated the digital transformation, earning
support from multiple brands as an approved
online retailer.
“Year to date, we’ve had phenomenal
success. Clients now expect a seamless online
experience as they would in any store. COVID
accelerated this, and we were lucky people
inherently trusted our brand to provide a
product and service with honesty, respect
and quality every time. Online sales are up 25
percent from last year and traffic has doubled,
though we see a lot of conversion in the
boutiques from site visits (those that are still
open),” said Mr Bishop.
Though Hardy Brothers’ heritage was
redirected to appeal to a growing market of
younger luxury shoppers who are already
heavily influenced by the world’s leading
luxury brands, the redirection led to some
uncomfortable conversations with the brand’s
more traditional audience.
The challenge, therefore, was to make
the brand relevant while selling the Hardy
Brothers experience rather than simply
products in an online store.
Hardy Brothers’ new mission post-2020 was
simple – convey its heritage and appeal more
clearly to a new generation of luxury shoppers
while maintaining the ideas, principles and
values that define its history. To do so, the fine
jeweller focused on creating a unique Hardy
Brothers experience and establishing a new
chapter as the custodian of luxury jewellery in
Australia.
“Design underpins everything we do, and we
have an incredible history and legacy in that
space. We constantly seek to make luxury
relevant while responding to prevailing design
trends. As a custodian of luxury for over 165
years, we have a great responsibility to uphold
the values our customers have come to expect
from us over this time,” said Mr Bishop.
Solution: Creating a unique jewellery
experience and destination.
The company appointed leading luxury
branding and creative agency, 3 Deep, to
44
jewellery world - November 2021

evitalise its store design, beginning with the
Brisbane flagship store concept and rolling it
out across the country.
3 Deep identified six guiding principles
that would allow Hardy Brothers to create
meaningful engagement with its customers:
artisanship, authenticity, consideration,
individualism, creativity, and the extraordinary.
To integrate these guiding principles throughout all Hardy Brothers'
touch points, its new-look stores artfully capture the venerated history
of the brand and establish a space that prioritises thoughtful exchange.
From areas dedicated to the brand’s most extraordinary pieces to more
public spaces that immerse customers in a fine jewellery journey, the
boutique’s design delivers inspiring moments to elevate the in-store
experience.
The luxurious palette of materials include polished Venetian plaster, fine
leathers, and rich Australian timbers beautifully executed by Woodlands
Shopfitting and brought to life by lighting designers, Ambience Lighting.
The experience’s pièce de résistance is the ‘Vault’ – a space for private
viewings of the world’s most coveted diamonds and gems, thoughtfully
designed and crafted by Australian artisans. Hardy Brothers is the
Southern Hemisphere’s only fine jeweller to proudly hold the Royal
Warrant and is simultaneously a select atelier for Argyle Pink Diamonds.
The space acknowledges the gravitas and drama of these honours.
Given the store is so conceptually rich and layered with meaning, one
of the biggest challenges was ensuring it didn’t appear academic and
overburdened with ideas.
“The boutique provides a unique theatre of experience for clients with
the space revealing itself over time,” explained David Roennfeldt, 3 Deep
Design’s executive creative director.
The brand refresh
delivers a unique and
highly curated gallery
experience for clients,
backed by Hardy
Brothers’ 165 years of
creative experience in
the fine jewellery craft.
“Our brand’s commitment to knowledge, luxury and craft is on full
display. Beyond aesthetic appeal, it allows us to increase engagement
while celebrating the virtues and values we hold sacred,” Mr Bishop said.
“The design favours meaningful exchange over ephemeral commerce.
It’s also about demonstrating what makes our brand unique while
respecting our customers’ dreams and desires,” he added.
Hardy Brothers’ Sydney flagship store will open early 2022, with other
states to follow.
www.hardybrothers.com.au
NEW CATALOGUE
OUT NOW
www.jewellerydpi.com

KEEPING SKILLS ALIVE
Captured Cab Pendant
Most jewellers will have a collection of odd stones sitting
around waiting to be set and maybe sold. This tutorial shows
you how to make a simple setting for a large cabochon stone
without spending too much time or money. The captured stone
concept is a perfect way to create a simple attractive setting
for any size or shape stone.
1There are so many design
variations for this concept. It all
depends on the stone you are
going to showcase. You could even
use an irregular shaped stone such as
a rough-cut opal. The stone I am using
for this pendant is a 20mm x 25mm oval
high dome cabochon Lapis Lazuli. This
would be a difficult stone to mount any
other way.
2
I am using 9ct yellow gold 1mm
round wire x 150mm. The base
wire needs to be the same shape
as the stone. Bend and form it into
shape, but make sure that it is hidden
when viewed from the top. The joint
should be on long curve side of the oval
shape.
3
Make sure that the wire was
annealed so that the joint doesn’t
move or open during the soldering
process. Now solder the joint with
hard grade solder.
Once you have pickled it, check to
make sure it follows the shape of the
underside of the stone. Make changes if
necessary.
4
Prepare a 0.7mm strip of 9ct
gold that measures approximately
4mm x 25mm. Form it into a
tear-drop shaped bail. Make sure that
the chain or neoprene necklace will pass
through.
5
To avoid the chance of joints
unintentionally opening later,
solder the bail onto the wire
base at the top of the oval shape. The
previous joint should be at the 3 or 9
o’clock position.
This stone is high domed, so I have
angled the bail forwards so that the
pendant will hang correctly.
6
Now bend the two setting wires
into a wide ‘U’ shape. Make
them larger than you anticipate
allowing for shaping later. You can
always trim them down if need be. Also,
be prepared to re shape or re position
themduring the stone fitting. This
technique is not an exact science.
46
jewellery world - November 2021

7
Solder one of the side wires at
the 2 o’clock point using medium
grade solder. It needs to be fixed
at an outward angle to allow the stone
to sit onto the frame.
Allow it to cool and position the stone
to visualise how it looks. Do not pickle
just yet.
8
Now solder the other side wire at
the 7 o’clock position.
The joints are going to be under
some stress later, so make sure that they
are soldered well.
Allow it to cool again.
9
Now assess how the stone fits.
The stone should sit flat onto the
base (unless it is an irregular cut
stone).
Move the joints and change the angle as
required. You may also need to cut the
other end of the side wires if they are
too long.
10
Once you are happy that
the setting will work for your
stone, solder the other joints
at around the 11 o’clock and
5 o’clock positions. You can now pickle the
pendant to remove the oxides.
File off any tool marks and emery clean the
setting before polishing.
11This will give you a chance to
Initially the side wires can be
pushed over the stone by hand.
check the strength of the joints
before finishing off with the pliers.
It won’t take too much effort to secure
the stone, but in this case, I will enhance
the design by shaping the wires.
12
It is not advised to use steel
against any stone especially
if it is soft. You can use nylon
jawed pliers to pull and
squeeze the wires inward. But to create
a nice twist shape, I recommend that
you wrap masking tape around the tip
of your round nose pliers. This will help
to protect the stone and allow you to
grab and twist the wires into interesting
shapes.
Peter Keep is a
master jeweller
and teacher. He
offers structured
online courses
that have helped
thousands of
students around
the world improve
their skills.
Jewellery Training Solutions offers a comprehensive online training service including the popular
Ten Stage Apprenticeship Course.
The video tutorial for this lesson can be found in the Beginners Level Training:
https://www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au/courses/captured-cab-wire-pendant
Check out the other courses and options at
www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au
November 2021 47

EDOX AND MARIANNA GILLESPIE
NEW WATER CHAMPION AMBASSADOR
Edox Swiss Watches, a specialist in highly waterresistant
timepieces, is delighted to announce an
exciting new partnership with world champion
freediver Marianna Gillespie.
The partnership is a natural fit for Edox; the independent watchmaker
is known as the Water Champion of the Swiss watch industry and
Marianna is a champion in her own right in the exciting, challenging,
sport of freediving.
The 31-year-old Russian-born Frenchwoman, ranked world No.1
freediver four times and world champion twice, will become an
ambassador for the iconic Edox Delfin diver’s watch collection.
Marianna will also become a product advisor to the independent
Swiss watchmaker, helping with practical, product- specific guidance
to further refine the Edox family of superb diving watches. Edox also
plans to present a women’s collection, including a limited edition with
diamonds, especially created for Marianna.
The Edox Delfin collection
The Edox Delfin
collection was first
introduced in 1961.
The Delfin is a true
timekeeping pioneer,
an emblematic watch
collection with an
iconic design. It was
the first watch to use
the Double O-ring
system which, with
a reinforced case
back, gave it 200m
water resistance – an
astonishing achievement 60 years ago. Six decades later, the Delfin
collection is still one of the stars of the Edox watch family.
Marianna Gillespie
An accomplished swimmer from an early age,
Marianna grew up in Moscow. She fell in love
with the sport of freediving during her final year
of studies at the Russian State Sports University
when a friend challenged her to swim 25 metres
underwater – without fins. She swam 75m and
hasn’t looked back in the sport since.
While most freedivers strive to master a single
discipline, Marianna dominates several – in
depth and the pool. The current French national
record holder in multiple disciplines, Marianna
has been world champion twice, ranked No. 1 in the world four times
and has also won the prestigious Vertical Blue competition.
Dubbed ‘the mermaid from the East’ by the Le Parisien newspaper,
Marianna is one of the world’s strongest freedivers, ranked not only in
the world top 10 in multiple individual disciplines but overall as well.
48
jewellery world - November 2021

NEW PRODUCTS
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A classically styled 18kt
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Featuring three centred Argyle
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Jewellery Centre | +61 7 3221 3838
Jewellery Centre’s new range of Christmas
studs are full of festive cheer and glitter in
sterling silver and enamel.
Visit our website for other latest arrivals.
www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com
Zahar | +61 413 872 810
Mix and match the elegantly edgy pieces from
the Indiana and Sahara Collection. Featuring
statement chains,
colourful rings, and
trendy hoops, there is a
piece for any occasion.
Everything is available
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order! Zahar product
prices range between
RRP $39-$139.
info@zahar.com.au
@zahar.collection
www.zahar.com.au
Ellani Collections | +61 2 9899 1525
These beautifully tapered baguette cubic zirconias set in sterling silver
dazzle in the new Ellani Collections Spring/Summer 2021 release.
www.ellanicollections.com.au
Bianc | +61 413 872 810
Bianc introduces the Voyage Collection. Featuring an exquisite assortment of topaz
and tourmaline stones, this new collection is an ode to wordly travel and exotic locales,
drawing its inspiration from ancient symbology and rich cultural influences.
Everything is ready for order available now. Bianc product prices range between RRP
$39-$399.
info@bianc.com.au
@bianc_jewellery
www.bianc.com.au

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Looking for a
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ADVERTISE
HERE
The classifieds section is an
excellent place for suppliers
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products and services in a
long-running, low cost way.
All size ads are available and
may include product photos.
Visit our website
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our media
pack for
prices.
PO Box 112
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P: 02 9380 4742 ∙ F: 02 8580 6168
E: sales@adelaimports.com
Glues
www.jewelleryworld.net.au
Adela Imports offer over 180
designs of sterling silver chain,
with up to 20 lengths available
in each from stock.
Also offering a range of
uniquely designed silver
jewellery.
Catalogue available.
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services
Chris O’Neill
Piecemaker
2015 YJG Bench Challenge
Hand Engraving Champion.
Also specialising in quality
Handmakes, Repairs and
Antique restorations in the
Sydney CBD.
0405 689 834
(07) 3876 7481
sales@labanda.com.au
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Are you Jewellery
World's biggest joker?
Got a gem of a gag, a diamond of
a giggle, a real shiner to share?
Fed up with the lame efforts we
publish here? Send us something
funny – we dare you.
No, really, please do. See what
we've been reduced to?
Send your joke to
jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au
Relaxing...
There once was a conductor of a youth orchestra. He had trouble
controlling his temper sometimes and would lash out violently. One day
in rehearsal, the first violin player was just playing out of turn for no
reason. The conductor got so angry he kicked the violin player so hard
that he died. The conductor was convicted and sentenced to death.
For his last meal, the conductor ordered a dozen bananas. The guard
was a bit purplexed, but hey, last meal... The conductor ate the bananas
and went on his way to the chair. They turned on the juice and let him
fry, but the conductor lived. In this particular place, if you lived through
execution, you were set free.
So the conductor went back to what he does best – conducting – but
he still had violence issues. On another fateful day, the last chair flutist
just couldn't play, and he got fed up and threw a music stand at her
and killed her. Moving forward to death row, there was the same prison
guard to look after his last meal. Again, he ordered twelve bananas.
The guard was really puzzled, but filled the order. Not only that, but the
conductor lived through another electric chair!
For a third time the conductor was back on the podium when a snare
drummer was being obnoxiously loud. The conductor threw his baton
at the poor drummer and she fell, dead, with a baton through her eye.
The conductor found himself, once again, in that small cell ordering his
dozen bananas. This time the guard couldn't take it anymore.
"I've given you three last meals. Each time you order twelve bananas.
I have also never seen anyone live through the electric chair. Do the
bananas help that?" asked the guard.
The conductor looked up from his seventh banana and replied, "No, I
just really like bananas."
The guard was shocked. "Then how in the hell do you keep living
through the electric chair!?"
"Because I'm a bad conductor."
50
jewellery world - November 2021

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