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AdventureMagazine

Summer issue of Adventure Magazine

adventure

where actions speak louder than words

ISSUE 229

DEC 2021/JAN 2022

NZ $10.90 incl. GST

summer

issue


The future is here.

It’s asking us to be ready,

to think bigger.

To embrace the trail

ahead and bring everyone

with us along the way.

Today, we celebrate our

first 40 years by looking

forward to the next.

#MerrellFuture40

Performance and lifestyle clothing and footwear for both Men and Women


Join us outside.

If it’s outdoors, it’s Merrell territory.

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#FORTHEADVENTURE


Finding the silver lining

In July 2021 we moved our home and business from Auckland to

Turangi, to bike, to hike, to ski, and to fish the winter season in the

Central Plateau. Turangi is an awesome little town, nestled on the

banks of the legendary Tongariro river and under the shade of the

mighty maunga, Mt Ruapehu. It seemed like a great way to spend

winter and it turned out a much better idea than we thought. In

just a few hours the world as we knew it changed and the Delta

variant arrived. We were lucky that we had made the move out of

Auckland, sure we still had family back in lockdown and that was

hard for everyone, but the fortunate decision to move south was

stained by the fact that we could not go back into Auckland and

see friends and family, we were isolated.

Isolation, unlike lockdown, has a real positive side. It makes you

focus and it makes you aware of where you are and what you

have. It was hard to enjoy skiing knowing that our friends and

family were locked down. We stopped putting images on social

media and focused on doing what we could for those locked

away; making sure we stayed in contact, sent happy surprise

gifts, and tried to maintain a positive view; which for us wasn’t

hard seeing our location and the fact that we weren’t locked down.

We had stunning weather for most of winter which meant that

we could ski, and tramp and fish. But knowing that in the ‘wink

of an eye’ it could all be taken away, as the shadow of lockdown

loomed, it made you savour every moment.

We became very aware of the change in season, in the Central

Plateau the seasons, unlike in the north, are very distinct. The

bare branches of winter filled with leaves and then blossoms, and

it went from mornings of minus ten to afternoons of thirty degrees.

There is nothing good about Covid, it divides people, it ruins

businesses, and it makes people sick. One thing it has taught

everybody is that things can change and be taken away very

quickly, and the adage of ‘living each day as if it is your last’ takes

on a new meaning.

But looking back over the last four months it has been a time

of immersion; not just being able to do great activities but to be

immersed in a region that is so diverse and changeable, the silver

lining has been that this unique experience would not have been

possible should we have been able to travel back to Auckland.

This is our summer issue and the team here at Adventure truly

hope that you all, everyone, have the summer you hope for and

have been waiting to experience and many have earned.

Have a great Christmas and an adventurous New Year see you all

again in 2022!

Steve Dickinson - Editor

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page 14

#229

contents

Image by Lynne Dickinson Self portrait

Image by Tai Juneau

page 26

page 50

10//Outdoor Sanity

in a Covid world

14//Four Wide

in the Otago High Country

22//The Coins of Judas

photographic exploitation

26//There and Back

two sides of Mt Ruapehu

34//Packrafting

Aoraki/Mt Cook

40//Tamatea Dusky Sound

in the footsteps of Cook

44//Summit Up

sunset on Mt Ruapehu

50//The Dunstan Trail

more than just amazing engineering

58//An Aquatic Adventure

the art of fly fishing

plus

74. gear guides

96. active adventure

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04//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


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BEHIND THE COVER

Legendary Mark Matthews had an idea about

double towing at ‘The Right’ in Australia, and at

the same time he would shoot Taj Burrow from

behind.

From Russell Ord:

“On this day both Mark and Taj started with a

couple of warm-up waves, smaller, cleaner and

user-friendly. However, it did not take long for

Mark to say, “let’s go this one”. I could see this

dark mutant beast coming from miles away

and knew it was one of the biggest waves of

the day. They both let go of the rope so there

was no escape; they were at the mercy of the

ocean. I documented a piece of history, the

wave decided not to participate – it shut down

violently. Taj made it to safer ground, however

Mark got the beating of his life.”

Re Bull Illume Finalist 2016 Photographer: Russell Ord Athletes: Taj Burrows & Mark Matthews

Location: The right in Australia Category: Finalist 2016, Energy

Words and images courtesy Red Bull Illume

EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER

Steve Dickinson

Mob: 027 577 5014

steve@pacificmedia.co.nz

NEW STORE FOR QUEENSTOWN

ART DIRECTOR

Lynne Dickinson

design@pacificmedia.co.nz

SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES

subs@pacificmedia.co.nz

DISTRIBUTION

Ovato, Ph (09) 979 3000

OTHER PUBLICATIONS (HARDCOPY AND ONLINE)

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@adventurevanlifenz

Bivouac are proud to announce the opening of their new Queenstown store at Five Mile.

www.bivouac.co.nz/bivouac-outdoor-queenstown

BOOK WITH RAD – WE DID

PUBLISHERS

NZ Adventure Magazine is published six times a year by:

Pacific Media Ltd, P.O.Box 562

Whangaparaoa, New Zealand

Ph: 0275775014

Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz

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Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must be accompanied by a stamped selfaddressed

envelope. Photographic material should be on slide, although good quality prints may

be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility accepted for submitted material. All work

published may be used on our website. Material in this publication may not be reproduced without

permission. While the publishers have taken all reasonable precautions and made all reasonable

effort to ensure the accuracy of material in this publication, it is a condition of purchase of

this magazine that the publisher does not assume any responsibility or liability for loss or

damage which may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or from the use of

information contained herein and the publishers make no warranties, expressed or implied, with

respect to any of the material contained herein.

Adventure Magazine

Whereever we go,

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08//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


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OUTDOOR SANITY

in a Covid World

By Annabel Anderson

The day was Tuesday, 17 August 2021. It was a stormy

mid winter day that the Southern Lakes had been

looking forward to all season after a lean winter on the

snow front. Majority of the early winter storms had hit

the eastern coastal pathway of the Southern Divide but

with over half a metre of snow in the forecast it was the

storm-riding day of the season and Treble Cone was

pulsating with an energy that only happens a couple of

times a winter when powder fever hits.

As the front finally cleared allowing an hour and a

half of visibility before the lifts shut that afternoon,

anticipation was high for what the next day would bring

as mountains across the Southern Lakes received the

dump of the season.

On the journey back to town, whispers began to spread

about the re-emergence of Covid in the community after

a 15 month hiatus in which New Zealand had enjoyed

a somewhat normal life while the rest of the world

had descended into chaos. The 6pm news briefing

confirmed the worst and advised that the country was

going into a snap lockdown from midnight that evening.

In an instant, the tone of the town changed.

Despair, grief, frustration and loss summarise the

feeling that fell over the village that evening and in the

days that followed as the magnitude of Delta kicked

in as we all looked up at "what might have been". The

usual winter stoke was gone, replaced with glances of

acknowledgement of collective mourning as everyone

began another round of playing ‘Go Home Stay Home’.

It was as though candy had been dangled in front of our

faces and then snatched away just as we were about to

take the first bite. Unlike the lockdowns of 2020 which

had an element of warning, this time the mood was

different and it was stark.

No matter where I’ve found myself situated in the world,

or what situations I’ve found myself in, I’ve always

managed to find a degree of calm amongst the chaos

by gravitating to the outdoors. For the months of July-

October in the Southern Lakes of the South Island the

alpine playgrounds above the snowline spring to life.

Add in a snap Lockdown game of 'Go Home Stay

Home', the shutting down of the mountain playgrounds

and all of a sudden I became extremely grateful for

knowing what was accessible straight out the backdoor.

Like a daily dose of medicine to maintain a degree of

mental and emotional equilibrium, what was accessible

from the doorstep and ‘local’ was a stark reminder of

how important being outside was going to be to mentally

survive another lockdown..

Being in New Zealand is a lot easier than a lot of

countries around the world when it comes to making

the most of what lies down the street and well within the

strict guidelines of permissible ‘outdoor recreation’.

Sometimes this has been easy, sometimes it’s been

more of a challenge. When I say challenge, I’m referring

to time spent living in and amongst multi-level high rise

buildings in foreign cities resembling concrete jungles.

Amongst the everlasting grey haze of a London winter

I discovered the hidden treasures of the city; a maze of

secret paths that lead to wide open commons, hidden

gardens and walkways that weave their path beside

the river and interconnect like veins all over the city.

These veins became my way of getting around, my daily

commutes by bike and the places I would run to escape

the oppressive nature of the concrete jungle.

Fast forward to 2021 and we’ve been forced to rethink

the meaning of outdoor recreation. When people once

thought of it as getting into the hills, multi-day hikes,

surfing empty waves on remote beaches and the like,

the restrictions of lockdowns have forced a re-think.

When you're confined to what you can access from your

doorstep a pair of shoes and the footpath constitute the

ability to remove yourself from your home/work/family

environment to provide a much needed escape and a

mechanism to cope in a world of daily unknowns.

This ability to remove yourself, interact with your

environment and re-enter allows us to return and show

up as a better version of ourselves, especially when

the unknown sees a natural rise in anxiety coupled with

shorter fuses all around. An injection of oxygen through

our bodies helps not only cleanse our airways, but also

our minds and our emotional state.

Many of us have known the benefits of the outdoors

for a long time. Fresh air, the breeze on your face,

sand between your toes, bird song, the rustling of wind

through trees, water running over rocks and simply

being able to escape from being around large crowds

of people. For those that have long been drawn to the

outdoors, an increasing amount of research has backed

up these anecdotal benefits and has been shown to

improve mood and focus and to help reduce stress.

10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//11


Combine time spent outdoors with physical activity, and

the benefits increase substantially.

If the cycle of lockdowns have sent us inside, we have

begun to crave being outside more than ever.

But do you really need ‘stuff’ and destinations to be able to

reap the benefits of what outside has to offer? Simply put,

the most accessible place is what you find directly outside

your backdoor.

When you’re not able to leave your local neighbourhood

to recreate it’s incredible at how you can make the most

of what lies on your doorstep. The simple act of walking

or riding a bike instead of taking a car short distances will

instantly elevate your mood.

There is definitely a notion of needing ‘stuff’ to be able to

enjoy the outdoors with demand for camping, outdoor and

sporting equipment skyrocketing along with the demand

for boats, converted vans, utes, roof top tents, caravans

and motorhomes. In reality, all you need is yourself, a will

to get outside and a commitment to make something out of

nothing.

A pair of sneakers represents freedom of walking and

running, two wheels allows you to get from point A to B

with less reliance on others and the chance to interact with

your environment to help bring a sense of calm amongst

environments of high pressure and stress.

Lost

by David Wagoner

Stand still.

The trees ahead and bushes beside you

Are not lost.

Wherever you are is called Here,

And you must treat it as a powerful stranger,

Must ask permission to know it and be

known.

The forest breathes. Listen. It answers,

I have made this place around you.

If you leave it, you may come back again,

saying Here.

No two trees are the same to Raven.

No two branches are the same to Wren.

If what a tree or a bush does is lost on you,

You are surely lost.

Stand still.

The forest knows

Where you are. You must let it find you.

Knowing that you’ll come back a better version of yourself

with the ease of embracing what lies right outside your

door while working in harmony with the seasons and the

weather to do so.

The harmonious interaction with nature that helps one

self regulate when needed. Majority of this is far from

adrenaline inducing but it also has no need to be.

Previous Page: If you look, you shall find the magic of what lies on your doorstep or close to it. Make a little effort and reap the reward.

Above: In the shadow of Aoraki Mt Cook mining the easterly puffs on Lake Pukaki in the fading light

Images by Nathan Secker

12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


we ARE climbing

John Palmer at Sunnyside, Wanaka

Photo: Tom Hoyle

For over thirty years Bivouac Outdoor has been proudly 100% New Zealand owned and committed to providing

you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. It is the same gear we literally stake our

lives on, because we are committed to adventure and we ARE climbing.

Supporting Aotearoa's Backcountry Heritage

STORES NATIONWIDE

www.bivouac.co.nz


FOUR WIDE

Otago's high country

By Tai Juneau

Tai Juneau is a freelance

photographer and digital marketer

who specializes in lifestyle and action

content. Tai spent his entire life in

the outdoor community either in the

mountains or by the ocean. He was

born in the Eastern Sierras of the US

and raised in New Plymouth, New

Zealand. He recently retired as a ski

racer who spent time on the New

Zealand Ski Team before racing for

Colorado Mountain College in the

western NCAA circuit.

Tai currently splits his time between

Oakura, New Zealand and Steamboat

Springs, Colorado. His freelance work

includes landscapes, architecture/

real-estate, product, and sport/event

photography.

Old Friends

“It's only about 3-4km. Should be at the

hut by about noon” said Nick.

“Sounds great, I am excited about a

New Zealand Hut trip” I reply.

“I am taking it easy on my ankle the

physio says to only go on even terrain

and no carrying weight,” says Nick. It

has been a long time since I had seen

Nick and just under a decade since we

ski raced at Coronet Peak together. The

great thing about old friends is that you

pick up exactly where you left off. It's

like you never left them. Nick and I both

share a passion for the mountains, but

little did we know how much work we

had set out in front of us.

Website: www.taijuneau.com

Instagram: @taididjuneau

14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//15


Snow Capped Sunrises

The coffee is hot and after a ski-deprived lockdown,

everyone is raring to go. The early 2000s Subaru

station wagon is loaded with ski equipment, tramping

gear, and boys, rolling four deep. We drive alongside

the lake soaking in the morning sunrise. The clouds

finally clear and colors light up the surrounding snowcapped

mountains. We find our exit, divide up the

supplies, and before I know it we are heading up the

steep mountain track.

It Begins

The initial climb is steep, so steep that there is a clear

set of waterfalls tumbling down the rocks. The 4wd

switchback changes into a narrowing trail which leads

to the base of a waterfall. Dead end. We backtrack

onto a faint, aggressive trail that involves a healthy

amount of bushwhacking. The debate whether

one should attach his ski boot to the pin binding

backward with the boot hanging down or to click in

the traditional position to avoid sticks in your boots

becomes a hot topic. Boot shells downward is the

winner on the day.

The bush slowly thins and Otago's high alpine

tussock begins to show itself. As time passes the

climb becomes riskier as now there are cliff bands

below us with little to no organic matter to latch onto.

Not long after we encounter an endless boulder

field. With a 20kg pack, each step must be carefully

chosen as a simple slip may lead to a twisted ankle or

a solid 2-3 metre fall into a hole.

A Lonely River

Four hours pass and we find ourselves on a plateau

with spectacular views. The morning light bounces

off the mountain tops and contrasts greatly with the

glacier lake below. Up ahead we get a clear view of

a stunning high alpine valley with a wandering river

leading to the waterfalls below. The terrain here is

flat, and progress is quick. We leap across the river

and begin the climb towards the saddle. The climb

isn’t as steep, but the tussock is slippery. We slog

upwards and the four of us converge at the saddle.

We cross from the north aspect onto the south-facing

ridge which holds fresh snow. Great news, it is finally

time to ski!

Saddle Sores

Luckily for us, the snow stays cold, and the

conditions are exceptional for skiing. Each turn

snaps around without much effort. On the way

down we spot our humble dwelling. It is an old

1920’s stone hut with a door that must be about

5ft tall. The luxuries of our accommodation

include a fireplace, a rock table, and a single

four mattresses sleeping platform. What was

supposed to take 3-4 hours to get here instead

took 7½ hours. Nothing a cheeky Parrotdog Beer

and late lunch can’t fix.

We unload camping, cooking, and sleeping

supplies. The boys rally and we take off up the

hill looking to catch some sunset turns. On our

way down we observe the exposed basin filled

with rocks, chutes, couloirs, and open faces. Our

progress is much faster with light packs. We scope

out some long lines above the saddle we had skied

and the snow looks phenomenal. We reach the top

before our shadows are too long and the sunset is

beginning to reach its peak. Matt and Kit both scope

a tasty-looking chute that has gold rays dancing off

the center of it. It looks like a ripper. Nick as per usual

seeks more action up further in seriously big terrain.

"On the way down

we spot our humble

dwelling. It is an

old 1920’s stone

hut with a door that

must be about 5ft

tall. The luxuries of

our accommodation

include a fireplace,

a rock table, and

a single four

mattresses sleeping

platform."

Previous Page: Enjoying some spectacular views on the way.

Above: The hut, somewhere in western Otago.

Right: Cold conditions allow for exceptional skiing.

16//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//17


The golden hour passes as Matt pulls into the

chute creating a horizontal cut across the top to

mitigate possible avalanches. We hear nothing

but a scratch of edges. This southwest-facing

section has already refrozen and the snow

screeches underfoot. Not the most favorable

conditions, but Matt skis it like a champ. He

flows left to right until he has completely exited

the approx 300m of vertical. Nick seeks a

different chute which to get in requires passing

over a few rocks in a dangerous no-fall zone.

He tiptoes through the exposure and clips in on

top of a more forgiving and chalky south-facing

line. He rips long drawn-out turns through great

conditions. As the sun sets, Kit and I begin to ski

a south-facing slope with chalky snow. Our smiles

are big as we ski down with the light dropping

quickly. Our next stop is dinner at the hut.

Checked-In Whenever

We were all feeling the solid 12-hour day of

slogging both on and off-snow, but each of the

few turns we had were worth it. Not long after

clicking out of our skis, we are sharing our

dehydrated meals, chicken curry has never taste

so good. Sneakily Nick cracks open a mulled

wine which managed to sneak its way into his

pack. After a cheeky couple of wines, the boys

are almost lights out standing up. We jump into

our beds one at a time as there aren’t more than

two square metres of usable space inside the

hut. Once we are all in our sleeping bags, we

are four wide packed like Weetbix in a box, but

never happier.

Round 2

In less than the blink of an eye, it's 6:00 am. We

start the day with a quick round of porridge, as

the sunrise begins to peel down the mountain

tops. We set off deeper into the basin with our

eyes on a spiny-looking couloir topped with icecovered

rocks. The couloir from top to bottom

is narrow, steep, and has a huge overhanging

rock face on one side. Naturally, most people are

deterred when they see obstacles like these, but

not this group. Our adrenaline begins to rise as

the crampons and ice axes come into play.

The Creepy Craggy Couloir

The group decides to boot pack up the guts as

there is no easy access into the couloir from the

top. Conditions seem stable with a frozen layer

underneath and about 20cm of fresh snow on

top. We transition quickly and before long we

enter the bottom section. Looking up I can see

the boys Nick, Kit, and Matt creeping into the

terrain one huff at a time. The rock overhead

feels like it nearly spans the whole chute. The

climb continues to get steeper and steeper.

Nearing the top, the terrain is extremely steep

but luckily there is a wind lip that sits just below

the top. The boys pull up.

At the peak the boys guess the slope angle to be

pushing 50-55 degrees. The transition to ski at

the top is careful and precise. One mistake could

mean a solid 300m tumble down across a rockridden

path to the bottom of the couloir.

Nick leads the charge.

" This southwest-facing

section has already

refrozen and the snow

screeches underfoot.

Not the most favorable

conditions, but Matt skis

it like a champ."

Above and right: Hiking up so we can ski down

18//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


20//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


"We saw wild landscapes, skied during sunset,

found fantastic snow, got our adrenaline pumping,

and had great yarns."

Once clicked in he begins to slide towards the

center. Hop turns are the first choice for turns

when the terrain is this steep. The first one always

brings your heart rate up. You’re wondering if your

equipment is dialed in. You hope that your skis

will stay on, but you never know.

Nick executes his first hop turn without a hitch

and quickly makes his way down the guts. Next,

Matt then followed by Kit. Each has a slightly

different technique but manages to make easy

work of the terrain. We all agree the snow was

perfect. It is rare to find such favorable conditions

in the backcountry. The excitement from such

a feature has caused great curiosity about the

surrounding mountains. We transitioned back

towards the uphill gear and set off for a final lap

around the side of the peak we had just skied.

Final Lap

We boot pack up another chute ensuring we

beat the spring thaw that was forecasted. The

top brings to a large outlook with the surrounding

mountains are towering over the glacier lake

below. Time to crack a well-deserved cold one

with the boys!. The Parrotdog brews from Welly’s

have never tasted so good.

At this point with great snow, extreme steep

skiing, and a few thousand metres of vertical

under our belts we all feel extremely satisfied.

The post lockdown jitters have been given the

boot and anything from here is a bonus. For our

last run, we scope a few more features we want

to ski on the way down and are stunned as we

find the best snow yet. 30cm of straight beautiful

cream. We ski back to the hut and pack up. A

four-hour trek down the valley to the car and

we’re done. I bag on Nick telling him there is no

way that the hike was only 4km.

The trip couldn’t have gone better. We saw wild

landscapes, skied during sunset, found fantastic

snow, got our adrenaline pumping, and had great

yarns. I would just give caution to the next guy

for any trip with Nick is likely to be twice as far as

what he thinks, but it will be worth it.

Left: Creating fresh lines

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THE COINS OF JUDAS

photographic exploitation?

By Steve Dickinson

There is possibly no greater betrayal than that of the

kiss planted by Judas Iscariot after the last supper in the

garden of Gethsemane. This smacker on Jesus’ cheek,

this insignificant act of affection, condemned Jesus and

eventually Judas to death. Judas received 30 pieces of

sliver, most likely 30 shekels, about $3.50 – a price he

eventually tried to return, but overwhelmed with remorse

he hung himself. The 30 pieces of silver he earned bought

the land he ultimately was buried, in as he was not deemed

worthy to be buried with ordinary people. I am sure there is

a moral there but that is not our path.

"Then one of the twelve, named

Judas Iscariot went to the chief

priests and said, "What are you

willing to give me to betray Him to

you?" And they weighed out thirty

pieces of silver to him. From then

on, he began looking for a good

opportunity to betray Jesus."

Matthew 25.14-16

The ‘coins of Judas’ refer to the price that we are happy

to receive to sacrifice that which is close to our heart, that

which we hold special, that which is uniquely ours, and that

which to some may deem priceless but to others is worth

little more than 30 pieces of Pharisee’s silver.

There is debate and aggressive dispute over the exploitation

of our natural environment and the activities that go on

within it. On one side ‘locals’ who don’t want to share, don’t

want the crowds, who simply don’t want the exposure.

On to the other side of the scale you have the magazine,

video, YouTube, social media, etc who all want to display

the beauty of that environment and the fun that can be had.

And somewhere in the middle between ‘keep it quiet’ and

‘show the world’ is the photographer trying to capture those

moments of splendour.

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Top: Photographers are everywhere in Hawaii

Above: Our editor, Steve Dickinson, in the blue t-shirt at Teahupoo in Tahiti during Code Red 2011


Yet some of those photographers are seen as the Judas

willing to sell out some special place for 30 pieces of silver

(actually a lot less). But is that really likely? Is not the

photographer’s first passion the same as that of the locals?

Talk with any professional photographers and they will

regale you with tales of abuse, projectiles, slashed tyres

and even death threats. Yet it is those photographers that

are willing to risk much to get that great shot, whether that’s

bobbing around in a boat shooting 30 ft waves, or scaling a

mountain to shoot a climber, or hiking for days lugging kilos

of camera gear just to get that one sunset shot.

For example: In 2010 I was asked to shoot Mel Bartels

(famous Hawaiian surfer) on the infamous West Side of

Hawaii, I was advised by a local North Shore photographer

and good friend not to go and definitely don’t take ya

camera gear, the locals don’t like the exposure. His parting

comment when I said I was going to go was, that he would

see me in hospital later. I spoke with Mel on the phone,

and she assured me it would be fine and that the localism

was “blown out of proportion by the haoles and the pussies

on the North Shore”.

We arrived early, the sun slowly rising, the surf pumping.

Mel and her girlfriend Teddy met us in the car park. As I

extracted the 600m lens and tripod from the back of the

rental car, the traffic was brought to a halt by a colossal

oversized 4x4 cruiser stopping in the middle of the street,

rocking back and forth on its over gelled suspension.

The window wound down and the black tinted space was

replaced by a heavily tattooed elbow the size of half a cow.

Out of the open window, a large Hawaiian man looked at

me and smiled (or snarled I wasn’t sure which).

I was paralysed like a rabbit in the headlights in the glare

of his mouthful of gold teeth, the difference between a

grin and a snarl became and internal confusion on how

to respond. The voice boomed down, “Bra what dah ya

fink ya doing eh?” Before I could reply Teddy embraced

me around the shoulders and replied, “he cool bra.” I felt

trapped between two large immoveable forces. There was

a moment of silence, a raise of the eyebrows, a nod, and

the deep beats faded as the window went up and the 4x4

drove off with the two Rottweiler’s in the back barking with

no sense of rhythm but with the same snarl-grin scenario.

I looked at Teddy she smiled raised her eyebrow and

laughed, “homies”. Not really sure what that meant but I

presumed it was under control. A wise man would have

seen the writing on the wall that even before I had left the

car park someone had confronted me.

To cut a long story short the rest of the day followed

exactly that same scenario. All day Hawaiians, both large

and small, would come and aggressively asked me to “f&^k

off Haole”, “what ya fink ya doin Haole”, “you got a death

wish bra?” To which my ever present body guard would

remind them I was here to shoot a local and they would

reluctantly simmer down.

At one point nature called and my bodyguard needed to

use the public convenience, she replaced herself with

one of the largest humans I have ever seen. While he

sat in front of me the number of those who said anything

dropped away to nothing. However, the nasty evil stares

still continued till my new mentor then decided to address

the stares with a “what ya lookin at brah? Steve with me.”

Eventually my bodyguard enclave grew to a small posse,

Top: Roys Peak, one of NZ most instagram famous spots. Image by Ondrej Machart

24//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


ound by the care of the skinny Haole and a cooler of

longboard beer at which stage I felt suitably comfortable.

As the day drew to an end a larger human than my large

human bodyguard approached the group. He stood off

at a distance and with the silent communication of nods

and eyebrow lifting one of my posse decided to check him

out. As obviously part of the large human club there was

a quite a discussion and then eventually my large human

came and asked “hey Brah, my man wants to make sure

you won’t name the beach in ya snaps.” I assured him that

we never named the beach and with a multitude of clever

handshakes and a famed shuker to myself, he walked

away assured that the most popular beach on the West

Side of Hawaii (with the most obvious of landmarks) would

not get editorial mention in a magazine on the other side of

the world.

Photographers will risk a lot to get an image, whether

that is putting yourself a personal risk by putting yourself

in crazy situation (have another look at the cover of this

issue and see where the photographer is!) or by exposing

yourself to the local’s wrath. We all watch YouTube, we all

have social media, we all buy magazines, (you are reading

one now), we all want the eye candy, the wow shot of a

place or action. Do photographers really understand that

by taking images you risk the exploitation of some areas?

Of course we do, and any that are responsible do all they

can to mitigate that risk of over exposure.

But to dig below the surface, localism is not really

based purely on “if you don’t live here you can’t surf

here, walk here, climb here”, it has a basis in greed.

Sure there may be some locations that have become

overwhelmed by exposure, Roy’s Peak, Tongariro

Crossing etc. but generally those wow images that you

see are not easy to get to, nor are they easy to take. Most

are really inaccessible, so the cost of exposure it low.

Regardless, people get heated under the guise of the

“poor environment”. What we really have is people in white

pointy hats saying, “this is mine and I don’t want to share”.

To be honest localism is an embarrassment, it is a

reflection of an attitude of greed and indulgence. Imagine

if any other sport decided that if you don’t live here you

can’t play, that if you are not local you can’t fish, hunt, ski,

play rugby, you can’t participate. We would be up in arms

screaming with righteous indignation. Most places are

uncrowded for a good reason; they are too far, too hard to

get to and anyone who arrives there should be welcomed

for making the effort, not ridiculed because they don’t have

a bach nearby.

But as you turn these pages, you will see we don’t always

name places, and our photographers will continue to risk

life and limb to bring you that OMG shot. If you want to

find those special places, those uncrowded environments,

the ‘locals only’ places – get in your car, pull on ya boots,

pick up your pack. Go old school; check the weather,

check maps and go look and if you get there by hard slog

and good luck, but you get met by a group of angry locals

with an attitude of “if you don’t live here, you shouldn’t be

here” then f*&k em, you have earned it!

Top: Melanie Bartels, while on the World Tour of Surfing in 2009

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//25


THERE AND BACK

Two sides to Mt Ruapehu

By Lynne Dickinson

Images by Lynne and Vicki Knell

When my friend called to see if I wanted to head out on an

overnight hike on Mt Ruapehu, my first reaction was, “absolutely”,

followed closely by “what if the skiing is good that day?” The

issue with hiking in an alpine environment, is that you really want

a clear weather day, which is also what you need for a great day

skiing.

So as everyone enjoyed the last of the spring skiing, we managed

to head off for a couple of overnight hikes in the surrounding trails

and would thoroughly recommend them both.

Both overnight huts were on the Round the Mountain Track, which

is as it sounds, a track that circumnavigates Mt Ruapehu. You

can walk the track in either direction and to do the whole track,

(66.2km loop) which takes between 4 – 6 days, with 6 huts to

choose from and various campsites available or you can choose

to do part of the track with access points from Whakapapa Village,

and off the road to Tukino and Turoa. You can also access the

Round the Mountain Track from a few feeder trails off the State

highway 1, Highway 47 and from Horopito.

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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//27


Hike one: Mangaehuehu Hut

Two days, one night

9km one way – approximately 6 hours return

This hut is best accessed from the Ohakune Mountain Road, at

the 11km mark, with parking available at the track entrance. The

sign indicated that it was just under 9km to the hut and for the

first few kilometres you follow a well maintained track through the

bush. Within minutes you cross the first of many bridges before

gently climbing out of the bush onto an impressive boardwalk

that meanders through the wetlands. From here, on a clear day,

you can see the lifts of Turoa. The trail then heads back into the

beech forest and down to Waitonga Falls.

The 39m falls are the highest in the Tongariro National Park and

if you only have a few hours it’s worth the walk just to this point

and back again.

After the falls, the track becomes a little more rustic and is

littered with swing bridges and the occasional river crossing.

Although the river had a steady flow when we were there due to

the spring melt, (we could cross without getting our feet wet), you

needed to keep a look out for the orange markers on the other

side of the stream to know where the track went as this was not

overly obvious at first glance.

Previous Page: The lifts at Turoa Ski Field were visible in the background.

Top: Waitonga Falls / Insert: Well maintained boardwalks through some of the Dr Seuss like trees

28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


The thing that really impressed me about this hike was

the variety. We passed through dense beech forest, open

wetlands, numerous rivers, waterfalls, rocky gully’s and

stunted trees like something from a Dr Seuss book and

finally to the open tussock fields that I was more familiar

with in this area.

You can walk to Mangaehuehu Hut in 3 hours but allow

yourself longer to enjoy the numerous scenic spots along

the way. Mangaehuehu Hut is an 18 bunk serviced hut

with incredible views over the surrounding area. Due to

its elevation (1285m) and the fact that we had a clear day,

you can see for miles. The hut is well established with a

fantastic pot belly fireplace in the centre of the hut and large

picture windows allowing excellent views in every direction,

(a real bonus when the sky turned the most intense red and

rewarded us with an incredible sunset).

If you wish to carry on further than the Mangaehuehu Hut,

it’s another 5 ½ hours to the Rangipo Hut. We chose to

stay put and head back the way we had come the following

morning. Due to the time of year we saw very few people

and were the only ones staying in the hut that night.

"They say that variety is the spice

of life, and this hike had plenty!"

Inserts: Another swing bridge just before we reached the hut / Mangaehuehu Hut enjoying a spectacular sunset

Bottom: Crossing one of the many rivers

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//29


Hike two: Rangipo Hut

Two days, one night

5 km one way to Rangipo, approximately 4 hours return

Access to this section of the Round the Mountain Track is from

Desert Road, via the Waihohonu Track (a full day hike) or from the

4WD access road to Tukino Ski Field. We took the latter, and have a

new found respect for the local skiers, who drive this road to access

the ski field.

This side of the mountain is in stark contrast to our first hike, the

track for most of the way is sparce of vegetation and very exposed

to the elements. According to DOC it is the only true desert

landscape in the North Island, with features of vast plains of windswept

sands and volcanic rock.

The first significant landmark, and challenging section of this part of

the track is crossing the Whangaehu River lahar path, an area with

great historical significance in New Zealand, being responsible for

the 1953 Tangiwai Disaster. There are plenty of signs warning you

that you are in the area and they are somewhat ominous. “Do not

stop”… “Do not enter if you hear a loud roaring noise upstream.”

It does make for a rather nervous crossing, not only does it come

with some potential lahar danger, the terrain itself is also quite

challenging, with large rocks and valleys to clamber over and

under as well as a single person bridge in the middle. However, the

scenery here is spectacular, particularly the view of the mountain on

a clear day.

Although only 5km to the hut, the terrain is varied with lots of ups

and downs. The trail is largely unformed but well-marked, mostly

rocky with large tracks of fine scoria, making our poles invaluable.

Rangipo Hut is a serviced 20 bunk hut facing east and sitting at an

altitude of 1556m. It’s perched on the southern edge of the desert

looking out to the Kaimanawa Mountains and Desert Road. The

positioning of this hut offers impressive sunrises on a clear morning,

worth getting up early for, and a vast night sky. Reading the hut

book, with tales of stormy nights and blizzard conditions, it reminded

us that clear weather is not always a guarantee.

"Extreme lahar risk, next 400m.

Do not stop in this area.

Do not proceed past here if you

hear a loud roaring noise upriver"

If you are lucky enough to get great weather, you can climb the

rocky outcrop directly behind the hut, and the mountain will reveal

itself.

30//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


Insert left page: Rangipo Hut / Above: Crossing the Whangaehu River lahar path

Above left: Warning, warning, move throught this area quickly! / Right: Stopping for a quick snack once we were clear of danger

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//31


Sidewalks: Waihianoa River Gorge.

About 45 minute further on from the Rangipo Hut

you come across the Waihianoa Gorge, one of the

mountain’s largest valleys. It’s an impressive sight;

it is steep (it drops nearly 200m in just over 300m

and climbs another 150m) and the ground uneven

to say the least. It’s bleak, exposed and somewhat

intimidating and makes you realise the force of

nature. It takes approximately an hour to cross what

is referred to by some as “the Grand Canyon,” which

upon seeing I can understand why.

One of the advantages of visiting as a day trip was

that we did not need to cross as we were heading

back at to the Rangipo Hut, so we were able to

explore at our own comfort and appreciate the

grandeur from up high.

32//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


"The beauty of these two hikes was that we could access two

very contrasting environments on Mt Ruapehu, enjoying some

of the highlights of the Round the Mountain track, within a short

period of time. This also meant we were able to take advantage

of a small weather window for each hike."

Above: Waihianoa River Gorge, one of the mountain's largest valleys - see if you can spot the swing bridge in the valley floor below.

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//33


PACKRAFTING

Aoraki/Mt Cook

By Jody Direen

There was no better time to book my first trip to

Mount Cook Village.

At a time when the Hooker and Tasman Valleys

would typically be sprawling with tourists from all

over the world exploring the majestic lands that

lay below Mount Cook – instead, the odd group

of New Zealanders (like me) were about, filling up

their adventure cup in their homeland. It was hard

to see mostly empty cafes, carparks, hotel rooms

and businesses downsized. But I was grateful for

the opportunity to explore the true heart of the

Southern Alps with its sub-alpine hikes and glacial

lakes with my partner Barny Young and a couple

of our good friends without competing for carpark,

café, track and view point space. Now knowing how

accessible and mind-blowing this place is I can only

imagine how busy it must get in peak season, when

international borders are open.

34//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//35


After previously postponing our mid-winter adventure

to Mount Cook due to a bad weather outlook, we

finally set off from my parent’s house in Wanaka on

a crisp mid-July morning, picked up a pair of snow

chains and headed for the mighty land. We knew we

had at least one or two days of fine weather before

snow was forecast on our four-day escape. We were

fine with this because it meant we would get the best

of both worlds; fine sunny days to hike high and Mount

Cook village in full snow mode – yes please!

I used to drive the road between Wanaka and

Christchurch a lot but since relocating to Franz Josef

Glacier on the West Coast over two years ago, this

might have been my third trip through the Lindas Pass

and boy did it put on a show! Laden with glistening

snow, it was a picturesque blue bird day and I knew

we were in for a treat. I couldn’t wait to set my eyes on

Cook.

We turned off the main highway onto the dead end

and famously photographed road that leads to the

base camp of Mount Cook. Finally, I was in my own

un-trodden travel zone and it felt good. The road

meandered along beside high-country stations with

the occasional homestead, woolsheds, shearers

and shepherds houses on one side and Lake Pukaki

casting its ice-blue waters up towards the headland on

the other – a glorious drive.

Out of nowhere we pop up and over a rise and there

she goes – you definitely can’t miss it – the sheer

magnitude and beauty of Mount Cook is breathtaking.

And we were still a fifteen-minute drive from the

village, the sense of adventure kicks in.

Our hiking packs are ready to roll - full with our

Kokopelli pack-rafts from Pack raft New Zealand,

extra wool layers, hat, gloves, balaclava, dry-suit, first

aid essentials, food, water, life jacket and paddles. It’s

10am so our plan is to bee-line for the Hooker Valley

carpark - hike to Hooker Lake and pack raft with the

sleeping monsters (icebergs) or possibly paddle up

the lake to the Hooker Glacier terminal.

Previous page: Jody Direen and Clarissa Turner enjoy the spectacular Hooker lake from a new perspective.

Above: A sunset float on lake Tasman is well worth adding to the adventure bucket list.


The track is wide and well groomed (although it was icy in

places) and almost impossible to get lost. I wore my hiking

boots but in hindsight wish I opted for my lighter Salomon

trail runners - the ground is so even. The track twists and

turns and gently undulates. There are three impressive

swing bridges to cross – these were track highlights for

me! The rivers flowing underneath are full of energy and

excitement because with each one you know you are

getting closer to the source. It took 40 minutes to hike in

with reasonably heavy packs (allow perhaps one hour).

The track reaches a high point just as the full landscape

of Hooker Lake comes into focus. The Hooker Glacier can

be seen creeping up the mountain in the far distance and

the icebergs float effortlessly, dotted randomly around the

lake. The mothership that is Mount Cook hovers like a

giant. The moment cultivates a feeling of scared respect

for our mountains. The overwhelming size and presence of

the surrounding alps as well as the ‘knowing’ of lives lost

beyond where we are gives way to the realization of how

vulnerable we are as humans. This is their home, not ours.

We just have to hope that when we venture deeper than

the well-groomed tracks like Hooker Lake, we are met with

favorable conditions.

If you’re looking to access one of the most beautiful,

unique, yet isolated places you’ve ever seen on foot with

the least amount of physical effort and time investment -

the Hooker Valley track is it. To put this into perspective, on

the West Coast, it would take an advanced multi-day hiking

mission to access an ice-lake with similar characteristics.

Lucky for us, we didn’t have to paddle far off-shore to get

a closer look at the seemingly peaceful ice bergs. The lake

is longer than we imagined so we decide to leave the ‘full

length of the lake paddle’ for summer. It’s prudent to have

plenty of daylight hours up your sleeve when exploring the

full length of the lake. This is because typically ice lakes

are lined with unstable moraine walls which can collapse

at any moment therefore once you’re in the middle of the

lake, to get back to land you really want to paddle back to

the put in (as opposed to the side which might be the closer

option). If a head wind comes up, this may take longer

than you planned. In case you’re planning on giving this

adventure a go and integrating pack rafting into your Mount

Cook trip, I should give you the safety brief.

"The perspective from the water

of the surrounding nature is

outstandingly different than when

you are limited to land."

Hypothermia is likely on the water if you are not prepared

with the correct clothing - a dry suit is a must. The water

temperature sits around 2 to 3 degrees and if you fall out its

important you know how to self-rescue. There is risk of ice

falling off the glacier terminal at any time which can cause

waves down the lake. Similarly, icebergs can roll at any

time and cause a huge amount of energy and water force

up from deep under (enough to flip a boat) therefore a safe

distance needs to be kept.

Safety brief over.

It’s achievable for anyone with outdoor experience and

common sense to explore close lying bergs from the put

in (just like we did) and oh my, is it worth it. I can’t quite

put into words the feeling within when having a close

encounter with an ice berg, but I’ll give it a go. Surreal yet

grounding. An enlightening and I want to say… almost

spiritual experience, one I could not have had if I didn’t

have my trusty Kokopelli pack raft to explore at a new level.

The perspective from the water of the surrounding nature is

outstandingly different than when you are limited to land.

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//37


We spent 40 minutes paddling around the ice bergs, taking it

all in. Barny even run a class III rapid on a river releasing from

Hooker Lake. Before long, the sun started to cast shadows so

we packed up, hiked out and checked into Aoraki Court Motel.

Accommodation wise, we wanted a touch of luxury to return to

after our daily activities and after reading reviews we narrowed

the options down to the Hermitage Hotel or Aoraki Court

Motel. The Aoraki Court Motel had better reviews and was

better value so we chose that. In doing so we sacrificed views

of Mount Cook for views of Mount Sefton and it was worth

it. The views were exceptional - it felt like we were the only

dwelling in the valley plus we had a bigger room, a full-sized

spa tub and our own kitchen so we could cook - winning!

That evening we planned to do a sunset paddle on Tasman

Lake so we set off at 3pm. After a 30-minute hike we arrived to

crystal clear reflections and WAY more icebergs than we ever

imaged to see in one body of water in New Zealand. We had

heard there had recently been a major glacial carving off of the

Tasman terminal face and they had all floated down to the putin

end of the lake. Well, they were right! We spotted a couple

of bigger bergs around 1km up the lake so we decided we

would venture a little further out than what we did at Hooker.

It was definitely cold at that time of the day and a layer of

ice started to freeze on my pack-raft which was un-nerving

however it didn’t lose any inflation (we spent time blowing

them up whilst they were in the water to ensure they were at

full capacity in the cold environment before paddling off). I was

thankful that the water running down my paddle froze before it

reached my hands as we floated towards our goal.

We worked hard to reach the destination and after 15 minutes

we arrived. These ice bergs made the ones on Hooker look

like popsicles. It was an incredible experience being out there

on sunset. Complete silence, stillness and peace eludes

you yet you know that in any moment that could change

because of the incredibly unstable environment we are in.

The odd crack could be heard and although you would deem

an iceberg to be not-living, somehow there was life. We are

sitting almost in the middle of the lake and as my toes start to

go numb - I call it, time to head back to shore.

I’m excited to get back to Mount Cook. It is a special place

and I hope that every Kiwi and person that visits New Zealand

gets to experience what we did. I deem it impossible to make

memories at Mount Cook you will forget. I recommend adding

the new dimension of an ultra-light pack-raft to experience

all the area has to offer from the water-level perspective

as well as on land. Waiver; do not attempt this with a $99

rubber ducky from The Warehouse! If you’re thinking about

purchasing a pack-raft I highly recommend the Kokopelli

Rogue R-Deck from Pack-raft New Zealand. I love mine and

take it on most hiking adventures – it allows me to explore

alpine lakes, cross rivers that would otherwise be dangerous

on foot, float down chill rivers (after hiking up) – although

some of their pack-rafts are rated up to class IV whitewater if

that’s more your thing! They even make for a great sleeping

mattress!

Adventure is endless in New Zealand when you integrate a

pack-raft into your kit.

Above: Barny couldn't resist the urge to paddle a couple of rapids flowing out of Hooker lake.

38//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


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TAMATEA

DUSKY SOUND

In the footsteps of Cook

By Vicki Knell

In early July 2020 we received this message from our good mate Bob -

‘We’re doing it!...wanna come too? Chopper into Dusky...play and explore...passage up to Breaksea

and Doubtful...get some stories...connect with magic NZ...exit via Lake Manapouri 5 days 4 nights...

ditch the pre xmas madness https:www.wildfiordland.co.nz

There was no hesitation, we were in boots and all. We felt privileged to be included in the group of

10 Bob was putting together and very lucky to have the resources to afford the trip - it’s not cheap

but we knew it was going to be one of those trips of a lifetime and it was worth every penny.

Little did I know that I would lose my Dad in November, a month before our December departure

date, making this trip all the more poignant. Even though he wasn’t joining us, looking at maps of

Dusky Sound and pouring over the Wild Fiordland website I think Dad had been just as excited as

we were about our upcoming adventure.

Our trip began at the Fiordland Helicopters Te Anau hangar. Here we met with Fiona Lee - one of

the owners of Wild Fiordland with 20+ years living and working in Fiordland and Kim Hollows, owner

and pioneering pilot of Fiordland Helicopters. We were entering the realm of Fiordland legends.

The excitement among our team was palpable - who doesn’t love a helicopter flight and what a way

to start the trip! Armed with last minute instructions from Fi and having been introduced to Scotty

Milsted who was to be one of our guides for the next 5 days, we loaded up into 2 choppers.

The flight took us over Lakes Te Anau and Manapouri and with clear weather we were treated to

extensive views of the Manapouri hydroelectric power project. We also got a close look at mountain

ranges including the Dingwall, Merrie, Kilcoy and Braan. Spiralling down into Supper Cove and the

mouth of the Seaforth River it was hard to see where we were going to land as dense bush reached

right down to the water. The skill of the pilots meant we were able to land on a wooden platform no

larger than the size of a beach towel!.


Out in the bay sat Breaksea Girl, at 60 ft this steel ketch was to

provide ample space both above and below deck for our group

of 10. We met skipper and co-owner of Wild Fiordland, Brian

Humphrey, and immediately felt we were in good hands - Brian

is a marine engineer with 10 + years experience sailing in and

around the Sounds. Breaksea Girl is very obviously his and Fi’s

pride and joy. We were also introduced to Kim Reichle who was

not only an amazing chef but shared a wealth of knowledge and

personal experience of NZ flora and fauna with us during our 5

days together. A canadian with a kiwi heart.

Supper Cove was really turning it on for us - not a breath of

wind and the sun was out in full force - so the late morning was

spent exploring the Seaforth River in sea kayaks and making

the most of the fine weather with the traditional leap from the top

deck roof into the cold sound waters. In the afternoon we set off

leaving Supper Cove and cruising the 9 Fathoms Passage, Paget

Passage around the Useless Islands into the Basin where we

anchored for our first night. Looking at a map does not give a true

indication of the vastness of Dusky nor the number of islands,

inlets, bays or coves. At every turn we were treated to scenery

that was mind blowing and a growing sense of how this place

could get under your skin was becoming more apparent.

Our next 4 days were spent exploring the many gems that Dusky

offers. One of the highlights was landing on the hallowed ground

of Pigeon Island at Richard Henry Landing. Little evidence

remains of New Zealand's first wildlife ranger's habitation.

However, with the knowledgeable guidance of Scotty, the story

of Richard Henry, his life on Pigeon Island and the exploits of

the curator and caretaker of Resolution Island beginning in

1894, came to life. Having just cruised the surrounding waters

we developed immense admiration for the resilience Richard

Henry had for the back and forth sailing of his dinghy Putangi.

From 1894 for the next 14 years Henry single-handedly moved

well over 700 birds including roa, kiwi, and kākāpo. He released

most of them onto Resolution Island and Five Fingers Peninsula.

Sadly his efforts ended in despair when stoats swam to the

islands in 1900. He would surely be heartened now, to witness

the successful work undertaken by the Kākāpo Recovery Team

on Anchor Island.

Taking the tender into Pickersgill Harbour and landing to walk

into Astronomer Point was also a highlight. With rata branches

hanging out over the water we could imagine Cook's ship

Resolution backed into the cove and pulled alongside. Notes from

Lieutenant Pickersgill record his finding of this anchorage - ‘After

getting into this passage we opened one of the most inchanting

little Harbours I ever saw; it was surrounded with high Lands

intirely cover’d with tall shady trees rising like an amphitheatre;

and with the sweet swelling Notes of a number of Birds made the

finest Harmony.’

Kim had previously spent time with the Kākāpo Recovery Team

as a volunteer so it was such a pleasure to land on Anchor Island

and venture into Kākāpo country hearing about her first hand

experiences with these delightful and very special taonga. The

walk in from Luncheon Cove to Lake Kirirua took us through bush

with a pre-historic feel and while highly unlikely, the possibility of

coming across a rare Kākāpo was enough to fill us with a quiet air

of anticipation.

Back on board every meal was a culinary delight - the seafood

provided by Scotty’s efforts included crayfish and paua all cooked

to perfection by Kim. Of note is the conservation code adhered

to by Brian. Fi and their crew who operate under a ‘no take-out’

policy with respect to fishing and ultimately practise the ethos of

‘protect and preserve’. Only ever enough kai moana is gathered

to have a feed on that day.

From Dusky we ventured out past Breaksea Island, up the west

coast and into Doubtful Sound. After our last night together we

made our farewells to the crew of Breaksea Girl and headed back

to Te Anau via a bus ride and boat trip across Lake Manapouri.

Our 5 days on Breaksea Girl had been the elixir everyone in our

group of 10 was after. In the footsteps of Cook and his crew we

too ate like kings, got out for decent walks, enjoyed evenings

around the guitar, shared stories, read and at times just sat and

soaked up the surrounding beauty. We came away with a greater

appreciation for Dusky Sound / Tamatea - it’s conservation story

and fascinating history. A very kiwi trip of a lifetime - Dad would

have loved it.

Previous page: The tiny landing platform at Supper Cove - our arrival point in Dusky Sound

Above: Dusky Sound in all its beauty

42//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


Inserts top row: Wet Jacket Arm, Moanauta - where waterfalls, misty skies and thousand metre tops converge. / Breaksea Girl - our home for

the next 5 days / The team ready to load outside Fiordland Helicopters Te Anau hangar

Bottom row: Soaking up the sun and the never-ending views on the front deck / More crayfish anyone / Pickersgill Harbour - in the footsteps of

the Resolution crew.


SUMMIT UP

Sunset on Mt Ruapehu

Words by Paige Hareb, Images by Lauren Murray

Being an avid skier and snowboarder

since I could walk, I’ve always loved

the mountains but as I grew older

and became a pro surfer to follow

the summer around the world for the

past 14+ years, I naturally spent less

and less time in the snowy hills. So

something that I’ve had on my bucket

list since I was a young tacker, now at

the ripe old age of 31, I finally ticked the

Ruapehu summit off.


T’was Labour weekend, the last weekend that Mount

Ruapehu could possibly be open before the end of

the snow season. Lauren and I were heading there

no matter what to try and make the most of a skimpy

snow season in between weather and yip, you guessed

it, Covid levels. We were just hoping for the classic

dodgy, four seasons in one day forecast to be wrong.

To begin our great weekend mission, we drove halfway

up Tukino field and decided to spend our very first night

in our brand new Kiwi Camping tent 1200m+ above

sea level. The 4WD road up felt like we were on a true

adventure and waking up to desert-like views, no wind

and the sun shining; we instantly knew today was the

day!

Lauren Murray, a professional Adventure photographer

who had also just finished her avalanche safety course

was all in for this adventure with me. Feeling super

confident with my skiing skills, I had done minimal

hiking and mountaineering so did still feel a little like a

fish out of water. Or should I say I felt like a surfer out of

the ocean. Lauren’s confidence and ‘go-get-em’ attitude

made me more comfortable about this mission ahead

of us. The only downfall about going with a professional

photographer is they have a sh*t load of cameras and

camera gear to carry but as you can see, it was well

worth it for the photos we did get.

As well as cameras, we made sure we were extra

prepared. Growing up with Mt Taranaki in my backyard,

I’ve seen all its flaws and heard of many hikers getting

caught out because of the weather conditions changing

within minutes or lack of gear. So with that in the back

of my mind, we packed many thermal layers and

jackets. As well as three sets of crampons (I had a set

that fit my ski boots and a set that fit my hiking boots).

Ice axes, snacks, as well as a gas canister to boil some

water for our new favourite lightweight hiking food;

a delicious vegetarian spaghetti bolognese made by

LocalDehy.

We had heard mixed reports of whether Whakapapa

or Turoa was the easiest way to get to the summit.

After a couple of days snowboarding at Turoa during

the season, we decided to head to Whakapapa purely

because we hadn’t been to that side this year. I’m so

glad we decided that side though because apparently

the gradient isn’t as steep as the Turoa side and

because I chose to skin up on my skis, it made it way

easier. Lauren hiked the whole way in her crampons.

Both great options. Before heading up we tried to do

some research and studied a topographic map and

talked to the Whakapapa Ski Patrol to plan our route

up.

Hopping off the highest West T-bar at about 3:30pm we

began our trek up and over the glacier knob ridge and

towards the dome. After multiple stops for breathtaking

views, snacks, layering clothes and facetiming friends

halfway up the mountain, we finally thought we were

there. Well, Lauren thought we were there. With a

disappointed tone in her voice she said “Yip, this must

Previous page: Paige at the summit

Inserts left: Paige chose to skin up in her skis / Insert right: Lauren hiked in her crampons

Right: Lauren working her magic


ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//47


e it but it’s just still frozen over”. I’m not sure if she was

delirious after hiking for two hours with a 10kg+ backpack

but I almost believed it too. In my head I was thinking, I

can’t have hiked all this way to not even really see it. We

questioned our route up and had actually accidentally got

side-tracked, veering to the left and going around the dome

instead of up and over it. We ended up above the summit

plateau, which to be fair, could quite possibly pass as a big

frozen lake or crater. With sunset nearing, we both became

adamant that we had to keep exploring to find the reason we

were up there in the first place. 400 metres further, just over

and around a little hill, with the light going golden we had

finally made it to the crater!

With relief that we had not only made it to the top, but more

importantly in time for Lauren to work her magic with the

light and her cameras. After admiring our location, devouring

our snacks and LocalDehy dinner we still hadn’t finished our

adventure. We raced the sun as it was quickly setting and

nearly 8:30pm with us on top of Mt Ruapehu. With nerves and

excitement we strapped our snowboard and skis to our feet

and started cautiously skiing down the mountain hooting and

hollering with one another with a couple of stops to appreciate

that we were the only two people on the entire mountain

crazy enough to ski down by a phone torch. We managed

to ski over three quarters of the way down before the spring

snow changed to a rocky mountain trail. Quickly changing

from ski boots to hiking boots and now carrying the extra

weight of our skis, snowboard and boots; it was now pitch

black but it was luckily a perfect starry night that made the

last 30 minute trek down nicer but definitely not easier.

Making it back to our car at just after 9pm we were completely

exhausted but so high on an adrenaline rush. We talked

about it for days! To summit up (pun intended) both ticking it

off our bucket list but we already want to do it all again!

Top: Not a bad spot for dinner

Inserts top to bottom: Our delicious dinner from Local Dehy - The first night in our new Kiwi Camping tent 1200m+ above sea level

48//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


ROLLAWAY


THE DUNSTAN TRAIL

More than just amazing engineering

A lot has been written about the development of the Dunstan Trail and the canter-levered tracks that

suspend over Lake Dunstan. However there was so much more to this bike track than a marvel of

engineering.

Despite Covid disrupting travel for many in the country, the Dunstan has already recorded a record

number of visitors since it opened in May 2021, all keen to enjoy either all, or part of the 57km trail.

Beginning in Smiths Way, Cromwell, the trail follows the Clutha River arm of Lake Dunstan into old

Cromwell town then circles the Kawerau River arm out towards Bannockburn before turning south east

towards Clyde. Although a grade two ride most of the way, with some grade 2-3, this is no “easy” trail.

The path is narrow in places and with numerous blind corners and steep drops to the river below, it does

offer a challenge for the more adventurous.

Having flown into Queentown for a quick visit, we hired bikes from Bike It Now! in Clyde. We drove out

to their headquarters where we were fitted with our bikes before being driven back into Cromwell to start

the ride. The trail actually starts at Smiths Way and bikes through Pisa Moorings towards Cromwell. It’s

a flat (grade 1) 16km ride alongside the river with the highway on one side, however we missed this part

and began at Old Cromwell village, meaning we had just over 40km ride ahead of us.

50//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


Cromwell to Bannockburn Inlet: 7km, grade 2

The trail wove along the banks of the river, lush with trees and vegetation; this

section an easy meander along well formed trails. As we neared Bannockburn,

we crossed under the bridge, and evidence of the areas wineries became

visible as we biked alongside vineyards and olive groves. Make sure you give

yourself plenty of time as there are numerous places you can stop along the

way. Unfortunately it was still rather early in the morning for a wine, and also

rather early in the ride.

Bannockburn Inlet to Cairnmuir Gully: 11.3km, grade 2-3

We reluctantly biked past Carrick Winery and onto the other side of Lake

Dunstan and back towards Cromwell. As you turn away from Cromwell towards

Clyde, the terrain becomes wild and stark, and this is where the engineering

becomes evident.

On the Dunstan Trail, looking out towards Clyde

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//51


The trail is either hanging from the rock, cut into

the rock or cut right through it. The banks are stark

except for an abundance of wild thyme and the

ever present lupins clinging to the rocks. Along this

section you will notice (if you keen an eye out) for

the drainage tunnels (there are 13 of them) that were

drilled into the hillside in the mid 1990’s in attempt to

alleviate landslips into the Clutha River. You will know

when you reach the gully as this is where you’ll find

the coffee and burger barges moored up against the

side of the trail, a welcome sight.

Cairnmuir Gully to Halfway Hut: 8.4km, grade 2-3

We eased our way past the crowds at the coffee

stop towards the Cairnmuir Ladder, an aptly

named section of the track that if it wasn’t for the

switchbacks, would require a near vertical climb.

Although you may feel like grinding it out to the top,

make sure you take time to stop and enjoy the view

halfway up, it’s also the perfect excuse to take a

breather. From here you can see most of the trail you

have ridden along as well as the stonework faces of

the Cairnmuir slide that was built to protect the river

from a major landslide. The top of this section is the

highest point on the track so the ride down was loads

of fun. Towards the bottom we crossed Hugo Bridge,

a narrow swing bridge traversing the gorge below.

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Above: Hartley Bridge Bluff

Left hand page from top left: Hugo Bridge / Micah taking note of the warning signs

Cairnmuir Ladder, a series of switchbacks making for an easier ascent

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//53


Halfway Hut to Dunstan Arm Rowing Club: 10.7km,

grade 2-3

We thought we had completed the major climb on the ride

but after halfway hut the trail climbed again, this time without

the aid of the switchbacks. Luckily once you reached the

peak, the ride was downhill again all the way to the edge

of the lake where there were plenty of places to stop and

have a swim or just picnic beside the lake. Although we were

eager to race ahead at this point, the trail was narrow in

places and it was a balancing act between letting it rip and

proceeding with caution.

The rest of the ride followed an undulating track along the

river until we reached the Dunstan Arm Rowing Club and the

Clyde Dam, NZ’s third largest hydro dam.

Dunstan Arm Rowing Club to Clyde Heritage Precinct:

3.5km, grade 1

The ride back into Clyde was along the roadside past the

lower reaches of the dam and into what is considered “old

Clyde”. It had been an incredible day, the temperature had

hit the 30’s and we had been wowed with the variety on the

trail and the views along the way. We finished the day with a

well deserved ice cold beer in the tavern next door to Bike It

Now! A perfect end to a perfect day.

The Dunstan trail offered a real variety

in both terrain and scenery and should

be on everone's to do list.

The trail can be completed in either

direction but after speaking to someone

who had biked it both ways, they

recommended starting in Cromwell

and finishing in Clyde. We found that

most of the people on the track were

biking in that direction so the chance

of running into people biking the other

way was less, however for safety sake

it is imperative to “keep left” while biking

when visibility is limited.

Above: Looking back towards Cromwell, you can see the stonework faces of the Cairnmuir slide, which was designed to protect the river

from a major land slide, which could overwhelm the Clyde Dam, a short distance downstream.

54//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


Reviews from

millions of Tripadvisor

travellers place this

attraction in the top

10% worldwide.

Come cycling in

stunning Central Otago

and let the experts look

after all your needs.

> Lake Dunstan Trail

> Otago Central Rail Trail

> Roxbourgh Gorge Trail

and more...

Call the experts at Bike It Now!: 0800 245 366

Clyde Bike Shop and Tour office open 7 Days

Cromwell Bike Shop open 6 days Monday to Saturday

www.bikeitnow.co.nz

Tripadvisor

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Choice

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CLUTHA

MATA-AU

RIVER 172km by bike

Central Otago rapidly became a bucket list

destination for cyclists after the opening of the

iconic Otago Central Rail Trail in 2000. Since

then, a number of new bike trails have popped

up in the region, meaning there’s now even

more reason to visit. The following four trails

can be combined for 172km of stunning riding

along the winding banks and mighty gorges of

Central Otago’s Clutha Mata-au River.

ROXBURGH GORGE TRAIL: This trail is one of Central Otago’s

most visually spectacular rides. Scattered with remnants of the

gold rush, you’ll head deep into the remote Roxburgh Gorge

from Alexandra to the Lake Roxburgh Hydro Dam. To ride the full

trail, you’ll enjoy a jet boat transfer between Doctors Point and

Shingle Creek. Distance: 21km + 12km jet boat transfer

CLUTHA GOLD TRAIL: The Clutha Gold Trail continues along the

emerald waters of the Clutha Mata-au river and along an old branch

railway line to Lawrence. Brimming with gold mining history, this

easy trail is the perfect way to immerse yourself in the stunning rural

and riverside scenes of Central Otago’s Teviot Valley.

Distance: 73km

LAKE DUNSTAN TRAIL: The new trail on the block, the

Lake Dunstan Trail weaves it’s way along the shores of Lake

Dunstan from Smith’s Way to Cromwell’s Heritage Precinct.

It then heads through Bannockburn’s wine country and into

the remote Cromwell Gorge before finishing in the quaint

township of Clyde. Distance: 55km

ALEXANDRA TO CLYDE RIVER TRACK (Millennium Trail)

Popular with locals, this sheltered trail follows the true right of the

river, joining Clyde and Alexandra. Mainly single-track with some

small undulations and boardwalks, it’s a great alternative to the first

section of the Otago Central Rail Trail. Distance: 12km

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AN AQUATIC

ADVENTURE

The art of fly fishing

Words by Steve Dickinson - Images by Lynne Dickinson

My earliest memories are fishing with my dad on English rivers, catching coarse

fish like roach, rudd and perch. We then moved to New Zealand, and I soon

discovered the joy of sea fishing and I still love it today. But twenty years ago we

bought a property on the banks of the Tongariro river, and I was introduced to

trout fishing.

Trout fishing is not like any other fishing, the results are often small and modest

by comparison to other fishing. Yet there is so much to learn and understand

and it is more like hunting than fishing, it’s more of an adventure.

New Zealand both North and South Islands are intertwined with a plethora of

available trout streams, rivers, dams and lakes. There are numerous websites

and books that outline where the most accessible are and how to access them.

There is nothing more exciting than driving up to a river access not really

knowing what to expect. Some rivers are right there, others you have to tramp

sometimes for days to get to. (It is important if you are crossing private land to

ask permission).

Recently a mate and I smashed through bracken and up a small goat track for

what seemed hours following the hardly used trail not really sure if we were

going in the right direction. Then as we crossed a low ridge line, we looked down

on a crystal-clear river on a large bend no deeper than a foot. And we could see

the silhouettes of the trout from where we looked down. We approached the

river ‘stealthy’; these big boys don’t get to hear a lot of footfalls. On the sandy

bank for as far as you could see in both directions you could not see a footprint,

not a sign of mankind. As per our custom we sat, we watched, and we whispered

rather than just jumping straight in. Just using our go to flash back peasant tail,

and keeping a low profile while casting, first cast big rainbow, second cast big

rainbow, third cast big brown. Catching the fish is the bonus and it does not

always work out so well, but when it does come together there is nothing like it.

I am no tramper, I find it boring, but if you add trout fishing to that I’ll happily

spend all day walking the banks of a river casting a fly, hunting the fish for

kilometres. It is so much less about gathering food (but trout do taste good if

cooked correctly) but it is more about the experience, more often than not I find

myself sitting on the bank just looking at what an amazing place we live in, and it

is right on our front door.

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//59


My dad used to tell me to slowdown when fishing, typically you’d

catch a fish and rush to pull it in. He would say “this is what you

have been waiting for all day now enjoy it, take you time”. With fly

fishing it’s not just the catching it’s the whole adventure experience. I

recently went out on to some back water with a friend who was once

a full-time guide. We split up he caught and/or lost about fifteen fish,

whereas I caught and/or lost five. As we sat on the bank at the end

of the beat, he said, “you need to slow down”, he told me, “you need

to spend more time on each section, don’t rush through so quick and

your hit rate will go up.” The next day I did just that and he was 100%

correct. But slowing down is what adventure fly fishing is about. You

are not burleying up and simply cranking in big snapper. You are

out in the whole experience from the planning to the travel, to the

discovery, to the environment and then hopefully a few fish.

It does not always work out but the more effort you go to to find

somewhere a bit more remote the better the hit rate. Fish do not

really like people, sure at times you will look down and there will

be one swimming by your boot, but a good example is my

local river the Tongariro, during the last level 4 lock down.

Within a week (because no one was fishing) the numbers in

the shallows doubled, then tripled and as soon as you could

fish for them again – they went back to their normal holding

patterns.

You can pull up to a river get out and stand in the same spot

all day and you will have fun; you will catch fish. BUT you will

also be missing the experience of adventure fly fishing, it is

like having a three-course meal instead of just nibbling on the

entrée.

If you are going to adventure fly fish, you need to gear up for

it. The big heavy, neoprene waders are great for the cold local

rivers, as long as you are not walking too far or having to climb

over stuff. The super cheap plastic waders are thin and light

weight but tend to be uncomfortable, hot and hard to walk in.

If you intend to adventure fish, then invest a pair of lightweight

quality waders and they will make the whole experience a lot

more fun. The second major bit of gear is your boots. These

are more like hiking boots compared to the neoprene waders

and easy to walk in and safer. There are hundreds of options,

material style and sole type. Personally I have been using the

Patagonia River Salt Wading Boots with Vibram® Megagrip

sole a compound specially developed for grip on both wet and

dry surfaces some people add studs, I don’t as a lot of places I

fish have hard round stones which tend to make you slip. The

rest of your gear is about the conditions, rain, sun, wind, and

also where you are going.

Like any hike make sure you tell people where you are

going do not rely on cell phone coverage as it is not always

available. There are a few excellent safety kits on the market

which are a good idea in case of an emergency.

My last piece of advice is enjoy. Its not always about catching

the fish, its about where you are, who you are with (even if you

are alone), and the simple joy of being outside.

Previous page: Fishing on my local, the Tongariro River

Top: One of the joys is finding a hidden gem / Insert: The other joy is catching (and most times, releasing) these beautiful fish

60//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


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WILD TWINS

Seeking adventures

"We like to think this book will inspire people to get out

there and adventure in this ever-increasing digital world."

Growing up on the family farm in rural Waiuku, twins, Amber and Serena Shine,

found their shared love of the outdoors early in life. After leaving school they

both trained in the army before heading the Australia to work in the mines. With

the money they earned, they travelled the world embarking on some incredible

adventures from working in a Bolivian animal sanctuary to being dog-sled tour

guides in Italy.

As with any adventurous lifestyle, it does come with its risks, and they have both

had their shares of injuries and discomforts, from extreme mosquito bites to

broken backs.

There is not a lot these ladies have not achieved; they have competed in the

world’s highest marathon on Mount Everest, walked jaguars in the Amazon,

sailed treacherous seas, navigated ice falls and raced 322 km on a dogsled.

The in 2019, the twins were approached by the makers of Naked and Afraid, an

extreme outdoor adventure (albeit naked). However, they both saw the mental

and physical challenge as something right up their alley and set off to Africa for

the show.

Their latest adventure was to write a book about their experiences, and to share

some of their most extreme achievements and the secrets behind their strength,

endurance and approach to life. “We wrote this book as over the year’s people

love hearing about our adventures and always want to hear more. Our stories

inspired people to get more out of life and we often got the comment “I am going

to bring my kids up like you” so we like to think this book will inspire people to

get out there and adventure in this ever-increasing digital world. Throughout our

adventures we kept diaries so we have an accurate account.”

Of all their adventures, their favourite and closest to heart was summiting Mount

Cook. NZ highest mountain is often a training ground for mountaineers and

the fact that it was on home soil made it all the more special. “S: Climbing Mt

Cook would be one of the more special ones being on home turf and NZ highest

mountain.”

Not all adventures are ones they want to relive. In 2015 Selena broke her back in

a snoboarding accident and was not sure she would ever be able to walk again.

“It doesn’t stop me from doing anything or limit me. However at times it does hurt

but it’s nothing to dwell on, I’m just thankful I can still do any kind of adventure

and keep fit working out.”

Amber and Serena on the Kepler Track

62//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


"Often, the more challenging an

adventure is, the more satisfaction

you get when you have completed it. "

They have also had their share of dangerous

encounters. “The leopards, hyena’s and other

predators stalking us in the night in the African

Wilderness still sends a shiver up my spine.”

Not all their adventures have been together

but they seem to have enjoyed those ones

the most. “The majority of our adventures are

together but there are plenty we have done

apart too. We enjoy the same things, so when

we can make it work, it is a lot of fun with the

two of us adventuring together.”

“Often, the more challenging an adventure is,

the more satisfaction you get when you have

completed it. Also, just experiencing new and

different things makes every adventure unique

and keeps the adventure spirit high.”

Top to bottom: Dogsledding

Skydiving

Swimming with turtles in Hawaii

On the summit of Mt Cook

64//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


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TALKING LOCAL

Adventure Magazine

supporting local

business

CHARLIE HOBBS

The "old" mountaineer

No one knows the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park like local

guide and mountaineer Charlie Hobbs. Having lived and run

his own successful adventure guiding businesses since 1989,

his name is synonymous with the area.

We sat down with Charlie to chat about his connection to his

beloved alps, what the mountains give him, and why every

kiwi must explore this special part of Aotearoa.

"When the

mountains speak,

wise men listen."

What drew you to Aoraki/Mount Cook?

I was living in Timaru working as a tradesman in

the early 80’s, spending my weekends and spare

time in the mountains. I was working for the

Mountain Safety Council and heavily involved

with the local alpine club where I was also doing

some instructing and helping club members.

Something just clicked with me one day and,

like many others, I thought “maybe I’ll become a

guide”. I got the necessary guiding qualifications

and moved up to Aoraki/Mount Cook which then

led to numerous overseas guiding expeditions.

The natural next step from there was to establish

my own business where I could share my

passion, knowledge, and genuine love of the

area. I’ve never really looked back.

What’s kept you there?

The mountains are a spiritual place to be –

they’re beautiful, they speak to me, I love

working there. The glaciers are continually

changing and ice structures remodelling; my

office is never the same. You get up there and

there’s no one around, it’s a truly special place.

I’ve always loved the saying “when the

mountains speak, wise men listen”. You can’t

muck around in nature, you have to treat it with

respect and listen to what she has to say. I truly

believe if more people took heed of that, more

people would make it home safely.

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Glacier Explorers is just one of many experiences in the region

Tell us about the changes to the area over the years

Environmentally I’ve seen some big changes over the last few

decades. I’ve seen the glaciers recede dramatically since the

80’s – some of the smaller ones in the park have melted back

to nothing. On a slightly more positive note, there is some talk

about glacial advancements soon and cooling, so I do hold

some hope there.

The other big change is the number of visitors. In the 90’s

tourism was quite a magical time. We had a good number of

visitors - many of them kiwis - who came and really enjoyed

the Park. It was sustainable.

In the last decade we’ve seen a huge growth in numbers

– probably too much for our infrastructure. It was getting

uncomfortably busy. With the borders closed, it’s like a return

to the earlier days with distinct peak and shoulder periods, and

much more sustainable numbers. You can now head out and

enjoy some of the popular trails without the crowds. It’s a great

time for kiwis to travel.

Mass tourism wasn’t good for our local community and our

environment didn’t like it – it was putting a lot of pressure on

certain areas and it wasn’t good karmically. I’d like to see a

more balanced approach and more manageable numbers

when international visitors return.

You offer some pretty amazing Aoraki experiences…

Well in contrast to what we’ve just chatted about, my trips

are all about taking small groups to special places that very

few people can access. Whether it’s mountaineering, glacier

snow-shoeing, kayaking, heli or glacier skiing, we like to be

personalised and small.

Kayaking: We’re the only operator on the Mueller Glacier Lake

and it’s a place that people can’t walk to, and aircraft can’t fly

over. You experience a magical “quiet zone” amongst the most

incredible big vistas. On the Tasman Glacier Lake you can see

big bergs the size that you’d normally only see in the likes of

Antarctica or Alaska. You can paddle around the icebergs and

experience something pretty unique with only a small number

of people – it’s incredibly special.

68//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


"My trips are all about

taking small groups to

special places that very few

people can access. Whether

it’s mountaineering, glacier

snow-shoeing, kayaking, heli

or glacier skiing, we like to

be personalised and small."


Glacier Heli-Hiking and Snow Shoeing: Surprisingly, kiwis really

haven’t discovered glacier heli-hiking or snow shoeing yet. It’s

popular with international visitors but the domestic market hasn’t

really caught on to fact that you can come and experience incredible

glacial ice caves and formations without needing to know how to

ski. It’s something I’d really like to see more kiwis do. You need to

be able to walk but as most of its downhill, you don’t need to be

physically fit. It’s a fantastic day out.

Heli-skiing and glacier skiing: skiing the glacier has been popular

with kiwis for decades. It’s an incredible experience and accessible to

most intermediate skiers – the blue-green equivalent runs makes it

great for most abilities and families. The words heli-skiing tend to put

a lot of people off. They don’t realise that we can match runs to their

abilities, and you don’t have to be an expert skier. Skiing in Aoraki/

Mount Cook is an absolute bucket-list experience.

CHARLIE HOBBS

Charlie Hobbs founded and is the chief

guide for Southern Alps Guides which

holds the highest international certification

for mountain and ski guiding. Southern

Alps Guides operate small personalised

group guiding experiences in Aoraki/

Mount Cook National Park. Charlie and

his wife Mary also run the popular Old

Mountaineers Café which pays tribute to

the mountaineering history and pioneering

spirit of the region. Visit www.mtcook.com.

Local tips? What are the other must do’s in the National Park?

The magic is being outside. There are so many walks in the region

with great views of Aoraki and the glaciers. It’s an incredibly special

and unique experience – there’s nothing quite like hearing the

avalanches, particularly at lying in bed at night.

You can obviously explore the glacier in the ways we’ve discussed,

as well as by boat and 4WD. There’s a range of scenic flight

providers if you fancy something a little less active.

The DoC Visitor Centre provides an amazing history of the area. You

could spend hours in there learning what this region is about; and

The Hermitage’s Sir Edmund Hilary Centre is a must visit too. You’re

really in the elements in the National Park so it’s good to have some

places to hunker down if the weather is bad. We’re in the world’s

largest gold dark sky reserve here and The Hermitage offer a great

stargazing experience at night.

Of course, I’ll always recommend a stop in at the Old Mountaineers

Café for a bite to eat and genuine kiwi hospitality!

70//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


Throughout my whole career as a

professional surf photographer and more

recently in the high-end world of VIP travel

facilitation and adventure photography

showing and shooting clients wildest

adventures across the globe, I’ve always

found the time for chasing storms in

between, particularly around my own home

on the Sunshine Coast. It’s a rush, you're

completely alone and out in the elements

witnessing mother nature’s full force. I live

for chasing storms. I basically concentrate

on a small stretch of coastline where I

live smack in the middle of Noosa Heads

and Coolum in QLD. Geographically it’s a

fantastic place for summer storms as the

sub-tropical location is perfect for creating

spectacular lightning shows where the

warm waters meet cooler southern winds.

This night in particular, was a long burn to

get this shot. I went out around 6pm and

the initial storm dissipated. A secondary

storm flared up where I planned this shot

around 1am. The time in between that was

useless; that’s the hard thing is sticking it

out and not packing up. This is one thing

that I used to do each day shooting surf, I

would leave the beach on dark. You’d be

surprised how many people leave and say

when did you get that shot! “ahhh while you

were on your 3rd Bintang or thereabouts?”

The thing is with storm chasing is you can

look at lightning trackers and apps but it

never replaces local knowledge. I had a

feeling the storm would reform and head

out to sea up the coast as I’ve watched

this happen many times growing up here.

Achieving a shot where I can see the stars,

storm clouds and foreground is what I’m

always after. It just gives storms these

perspectives and magical snapshot into

what’s happening above and below. The

best thing is you never really know what

you’re going to get but you can plan to be

around the right distance and location to

achieve what’s in your brain. Of course,

a lot of trips out storm chasing produce

nothing apart from empty coffee cups and a

sandy truck.

Contact mick@mickcurleyphotography.com

Insta – mick_curley_images

72//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


posure

X


Merrell Kahuna 4 Strap Men’s - Brown $219.00

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74//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


FOR YOUR FEET

Merrell Hydro Moc women's - mineral $89.00

A thing of beauty? The Hydro Moc is not for

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hoka CHALLENGER ATR 6 $269.95

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equip

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salewa ALPENROSE 2 MID GTX $379.90

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SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER LITE MID GORE-TEX® $399.90

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hoka ANACAPA MID GTX $399.95

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Macpac Pertex® MTB Shorts $199.99

Fully-featured shorts designed for

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Made with a durable Pertex®

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Patagonia M’s Merino 3/4 Sleeve Bike Jersey $179.99

From the first 100% Fair Trade Certified sewn

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RAB RAID SHORTS WOMENS $159.95

The Raid shorts are a fully featured

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RAB PULSE SS TEE $79.95

Lightweight and fast drying, the Pulse SS Tee is a

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RAB PULSE HOODY $99.95

Lightweight and fast drying, the Pulse

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76//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

RAB MOMENTUM SHORTS $99.95

The Momentum Shorts are light and robust with a quick dry

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Patagonia W's Mibra Tank $119.99

A collaboration between climbers

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this tank combines active support

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HOLIDAY-GUIDE

Outdoor Research Helium Rain Jacket $299.99

Uses Pertex® Shield with Diamond Fuse Technology to take

durable lightweight waterproof protection to a new high. The jacket

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be stowed in its chest pocket. Comes in men’s and women’s cut, five

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Knife Edge Jacket $499.00

Add the lightweight Men’s Knife Edge Waterproof Jacket Shell to your pack

for unexpected downpours during hiking adventures. The wind-blocking,

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RAB SONIC SS ZIP TEE WOMENS $99.95

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Outdoor Research Helium Rain Pants $219.99

Pertex® Shield with Diamond Fuse Technology

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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//77


lowe alpine AirZone Trail 35 $299.95

The AirZone Trail 35 features a Fixed

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add stability, and a forward pull hip belt

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macpacGreat Walks Bandana $24.99

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lowe ALPINE NIJMEGEN 6 $99.99

Designed to accommodate a full day on the trail, the

Nijmegen is a 6 litre belt pack featuring integrated twin

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ospray Talon Pro 30 | Tempest Pro 28 $349.99

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lowe alpine AEON 22 $249.95

The Aeon 22 is one of the most adaptable lightweight

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78//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


Featuring all-new, patented FormKnit technology, the AirZone

Trek’s iconic carry system offers world-class comfort and

ventilation. Whether you’re feeling the heat on dusty tracks or

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Available now from Lowe Alpine specialist stores throughout NZ.

Hunting and Fishing New Zealand stores nationwide. Auckland: Living Simply, Waikato: Trek & Travel, Equip Outdoors,

BOP: Whakatane Great Outdoors, Taupo: Outdoor Attitude, Wellington: Dwights Outdoors, Motueka: Coppins Outdoors,

Nelson: PackGearGo Kaikoura: Coastal Sports Christchurch: Complete Outdoors, Greymouth: Colls Sportsworld,

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marmot Trestles 15 Sleeping Bag (-9°C)

$199.95

The Trestles 15 is a reliable allpurpose

bag for everything from

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marmot Never Winter Sleeping bag (-1°C) $499.00

The Never Winter Sleeping Bag is ideal for warmweather

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kiwi camping Mamaku Trek 0°C

Sleeping Bag $99.99

The Mamaku Trek 0°C sleeping

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kiwi camping mamaku Pro -5°C

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exped Lite -5 Down Sleeping Bag (Medium) $599.99

A highly compressible bag made with lightweight

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800-loft European goose down

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80//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


Rab ALPINE PRO 200 RIGHT ZIP SLEEPING

BAG $599.95

Designed for summer bivis and

lightweight multi-day trips, the Alpine

Pro 200 is a mid-weight down-filled

sleeping bag that expertly balances

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Rab MYTHIC ULTRA 180 SLEEPING BAG $1,199.95

The Mythic Ultra 180 redefines what it

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Macpac Dusk 400 Down Sleeping Bag $499.99

Perfect if you’re looking to step into your first

down sleeping bag, we designed the Dusk

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marmot Sawtooth Sleeping Bag (-9°C) $599.00

The Sawtooth 15° Sleeping Bag blends just the

right down warmth with just the right weight, plus

a healthy measure of durability for all-around

performance. Its lofty 650-fill-power-down

insulation and water-resistant Down Defender

treatment will keep you warm and dry. After an

epic day of adventuring, give your feet a rest in

the roomy wrap-around footbox with a heater

pocket for added comfort. Stretch tricot baffles

help keep the fill in place, while the nautilus

multi-baffle hood with a drawcord and full-length

two-way zipper with a draft tube limit heat loss.

If the interior gets too warm, use the fold-down

secondary zipper to get some air. Tuck small

items into the internal stash pocket.

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

Macpac Aspire 360 Synthetic

Sleeping Bag $249.99

Aspire 360s are our warmest

synthetic sleeping bags. Suited

to camping in wet conditions,

perfect on road trips and holidays

at the beach, and able to provide

comfort in temperatures below

freezing. Their tapered relaxed

mummy shape balances warmth

with comfort, the nylon ripstop

outer fabric is treated with a water

resistant finish, and two layers of

recycled microfibre help to keep

you cosy.

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//81


jetboil STASH Cooking System $299.95

The Lightest and Most Compact

Jetboil Ever. We know your dreams

are big and ambitious. Which is why

we designed the all-new Stash to be

lightweight and compact, maximizing

your pack space without sacrificing

that iconic Jetboil performance. At

7.1 oz or 200 g, the .8L Stash is 40%

lighter than the .8L Zip.

WWW.JETBOIL.CO.NZ

jetboil Micromo $329.95

Ultralight with ultra cooking

control. The MicroMo balances

streamlined and travel-friendly

weight with uncompromising cooking

performance. Cold-weather reliability

and a wind-blocking shroud are

integrated into our most lightweight

and low-profile design with premium

regulator simmer control.

WWW.JETBOIL.CO.NZ

sea to summit Aeros Premium Pillow $64.99

A luxurious high-performance pillow without the weight and

bulk. Perfect for travel and camping where you can risk a

couple more grams for a great night's sleep. The pillowcase

construction allows the outer shell to retain maximum softness

while still being supported by a high strength TPU bladder.

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/SEA-TO-SUMMIT/

Kiwi Camping 1.2L Collapsible Turbo Pot $74.99

The Kiwi Camping turbo pot is a lightweight

addition to your adventures weighing at only

450gm with a 1.2L boiling capacity. Perfect for

hot drinks and freeze-dried food and collapses

to 50mm.

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

Gasmate Turbo Butane Stove & Pot Set $139.00

For quick boiling when you need it! A super

lightweight aluminium stove with stainless

steel burner, piezo ignition, stabilising feet and

accessories all packaged in a mesh carry bag.

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

Kiwi Camping 350ML Thermo Tumbler

The iconic double-walled Kiwi tumbler! A

staple for adventures big and small. Enjoy

your favourite drinks hot or cold with the

easy-sip lid with vacuum rubber seal.

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

Explore Planet Earth LED Area Light Kit

The EPE Area Light is a lightweight but

powerful 2400 lumen light perfect for camping

or outdoor settings after sundown. Includes

2.5m extension pole, ground stake and padded

carry case.

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

sea to summit Jungle tarp $199.99

Add our Jungle Hammock Tarp to your

Jungle Hammock Set for a sheltered,

bug-free suspended sleep.

Made from water and abrasion

resistant, lightweight 30 denier Ultra-

Sil CORDURA® Nylon fabric with

waterproof seams – double stitched and

tape sealed, non-wicking anchor points

with adjustable guy lines and siliconised

outer surface with 2000mm waterhead.

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ

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Marmot Tungsten 2P $549.00

Ready to adventure with you mile after mile, the freestanding Tungsten

2-Person Tent blends durability, roominess, and a livable design. Strategic

clip placement offers more interior volume after a long day on the mountain.

If a downpour approaches, the colour-coded "easy pitch" clips and poles

make for a quick set up, and the seam-taped, catenary-cut floor and

full-coverage vented fly add to its weather protection. Dual doors allow

easy entry and exit with vestibule storage space around both doors. The

lampshade pocket stows your headlamp and the included abrasion-resistant

footprint round out the details that make life on the trail easier.

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ

Mont Adventure Equipment Moondance 2FN Tent $949.99

Spacious 2-person, sub-alpine 4-season tent designed for winter-grade weather

protection. It has the minimum packed size and lowest possible weight without

sacrificing performance and is fast to pitch due to its rectangular shape and

symmetrical pole hubs eliminating mistakes. This FN (Full Nylon inner tent)

version is designed for the warmth, weatherproofness and protection from

spindrift in snowy conditions. 2.1kg

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

sunsaver classic 16,000 mah solar

power bank $119.00

Built tough for the outdoors and with

a massive battery capacity you can

keep all your devices charged no matter

where your adventure takes you.

WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ

exped Outer Space II Tent $899.99

2-person tent which can be set up in multiple modes to adapt to the conditions

and personal preferences. It features a giant, pole-supported front vestibule that

easily shelters 3 people in camp chairs, a lightweight table and backpacks. The

poles are on the outside of the fly and allow you to pitch the inner and outer tent

in one go or pitch the fly only without the inner tent. 2.9kg

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

Helinox_Chair-One_Blue $179.99

The original Helinox chair remains the ultimate

combination of comfort, lightweight packability and

refined design.

Built around Helinox’s proprietary DAC TH72M

Aluminum Alloy frame, it supports up to 145kg but

weighs under 1kg. Its comfort is legendary. The

minimalist design is clean and streamlined. And it

leverages a single-cord bungee system and simple seat

sleeves that make set-up intuitive and fast.

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/HELINOX/

macpac Hiking Travel Chair $129.99

This compact option packs smaller

than most folding chairs, weighs just

over a kilo, and comes with a carry

case. Lightweight aluminium frame,

600D polyester with PU coating,

100kg weight limit.

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

sea to summit Jungle Hammock Set $299.99

Perfect for humid environments, the Jungle Hammock

Set comes with straps and can be used anywhere

from the backpacking trail to the wilderness. In wet

conditions, combine it with our Jungle Hammock Tarp

for a sheltered, bug-free suspended sleep.

Made using breathable, lightweight 70 denier ripstop

Nylon, high-tenacity monofilament netting, Dyneema®

webbing and corrosion-resistant anodised 6061

Aluminium buckles.

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ


BACK COUNTRY CUISINE:

The first thing you’ll notice is that the front label on their pouches have changed

for the better by adding Health Star Ratings and energy, protein, fat and carbs

per pouch. They have also improved the readability of our back labels.

Back Country Cuisine is available at leading retailers.

For more information or to find your nearest stockist visit:

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz

tasty chicken mash $9.49 - $13.99

With smoky flavoured freeze dried chicken, cheese

and vegetables.

3.5 Health Stars - Gluten Free

Available small serve (90g) or regular (175g)

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ

Apple & Berry Crumble $13.19

A sweet mix of freeze dried apples and berries topped

with a delicious gluten free cookie crumb.

3 Health Stars - Gluten Free

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ

TIRED

LEGS?

WE'VE GOT A

SMOOTHIE FOR

THAT.

INSTANT PASTA $4.89

Just add boiling water for perfectly cooked

pasta.

3.5 Health Stars

Sizes – Family 120g

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ

Epic coffee Drip Filter’s

Single from $2.99, 10 Pack from $24.99

Your favourite new adventure essential – specialty coffee,

roasted in micro-batches and loaded into adventure-proof

drip filters. Proceeds from every product sold are donated to

ONETREEPLANTED.

WWW.EPICCOFFEE.CO.NZ

Guilt free dinning since 98!

backcountrycuisine.co.nz



Hey Piña 440ml: Post Fermentation

Fruited Sour 4.5% ABV $8.99

For decades the pineapple, or 'Piña',

in Spanish, was South America's

precious little secret. The now

famous sweetness blends sublimely

with the vibrant raspberry, balanced

with zesty lime.winter.

WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ

Mango Tango 440ml: Post Fermentation

Fruited Sour 5% ABV$8.99

Mango Tango is a magical fusion of

tropical flavours. Mango and Passionfruit

form an elegant connection, embracing

with a vibrant and playful expression of

aromas. Sweet and sour perfection.

WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ

Berrylicious 440ml: Post Fermentation

Fruited Sours 4.5% ABV $8.99

Packed full of Blackberries, cherries

and raspberries. Berrylicious is vibrant

and juicy, with a perfect mix of sweet

and sour berry flavours, balanced with

light tartness and subtle floral and

earthy overtones.

WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ


Tread light.

Sleep soft.

Dusk 400

OUR FAVOURITE FOR FIRST TIMERS

Whether you’re looking for your first down sleeping

bag, or upgrading your setup for adventures on

the horizon, the new Dusk 400 provides feel good

warmth that doesn’t cost the earth.

• 3°C comfort rating

• bluesign® certified recycled

fabrics throughout

• Ethically-sourced 600 loft

HyperDRY RDS duck down

Aside from the essentials, a relaxed mummy fit

balances warmth and room to move. Elastic mat

attachments and concealed cords provide nightlong

comfort, and an internal zipped pocket

ensures you can keep small items close.

Available in standard, women’s and large sizes.

macpac.co.nz | 36 stores nationwide


FEED YOUR ADDICTION

Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and

development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are

made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole

new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s

online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able

drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are

a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.

Never have a dead phone

again! Because now you can

charge straight from the Sun

with SunSaver. Perfect for

that week-long hike, day at

the beach, or back-up for any

emergency. Check us out at:

www.sunsaver.co.nz

www.packraftingqueenstown.com

Specialising in

small group guided

packrafting trips and

courses from our base

in Queenstown New

Zealand.

www.adventuresouth.co.nz

Whether you enjoy

cycle trails, road

cycling, mountain

biking or walking,

Adventure South NZ

can help you to explore

New Zealand at

your own pace.

Full-service outfitter selling hiking

and mountaineering gear and

apparel, plus equipment rentals.

Specialising in ski & snowboard

touring equipment new & used;

skis, boards, bindings, skins,

probs, shovels,transceivers &

avalanche packs.

www.smallplanetsports.com

Our motto is “Going the

distance” and we pride

ourselves on providing top

quality outdoor and travel

equipment and service

that will go the distance

with you, wherever that

may be.

www.trekntravel.co.nz

Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional

outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.

www.patagonia.co.nz

Stocking an extensive range

of global outdoor adventure

brands for your next big

adventure. See them for travel,

tramping, trekking, alpine and

lifestyle clothing and gear.

www.outfittersstore.nz

Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,

Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,

Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.

www.equipoutdoors.co.nz

Our Mission

To bring like-minded adventurers together for epic journey’s

fuelled by top-notch coffee. All while supporting the things

we care about and restoring nature.

www.epiccoffee.co.nz

Our very own online store where

you will find hard goods to keep you

equipped for any adventure.

www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz

86//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


Ultra lightweight running shoes, made by runners. No

matter where the trail takes you, Hoka One One will

have you covered.

www.hokaoneone.co.nz

PACKRAFT NZ

Unlock your adventure horizon with Packraft New Zealand.

Online supplier of Kokopelli packrafts, accessories and

adventure inspiration. Shop online or contact us for expert

advice for everything packrafting; hike-raft, bike-raft, hunt-raft,

whitewater, fishing, canyoneering, urban and travel.

www.packraftnewzealand.co.nz

Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor

clothing, footwear and equipment from the best

brands across New Zealand & the globe.

www.bivouac.co.nz

Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel

& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &

casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.

www.merrell.co.nz

Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills

or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last

and engineered to perform — proudly designed and

tested in New Zealand since 1973.

www.macpac.co.nz

Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment

specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place

for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents, outdoor

clothing and more.

www.livingsimply.co.nz

Offering the widest variety,

best tasting, and most

nutrient rich hydration,

energy, and recovery

products on the market.

www.guenergy.co.nz

Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz

Jetboil builds super-dependable

backpacking stoves and camping

systems that pack light,

set up quick, and achieve

rapid boils in minutes.

www.jetboilnz.co.nz

Supplying tents and

camping gear to Kiwis

for over 30 years, Kiwi

Camping are proud to

be recognised as one of

the most trusted outdoor

brands in New Zealand.

www.kiwicamping.co.nz

With stores in Clyde and

Cromwell, Bike it Now! is

your access point to the

Central Otago Bike trials: T

> Lake Dunstan Trail

> Otago Central Rail Trail

> Roxbourgh Gorge

and more...

www.bikeitnow.co.nz

Excellent quality Outdoor

Gear at prices that can't

be beaten. End of lines.

Ex Demos. Samples. Last

season. Bearpaw. Garneau.

Ahnu. Superfeet.

www.adventureoutlet.co.nz


LONGBOARDING

the classic art

the concept of surfing across the face

of the wave on a smaller board (still at

least 9-10 ft). Copeland and Stoner also

helped locals to make copies of their

boards, introducing modern surfing and

surfboards to New Zealand. These new

surfing techniques put more emphasis

on the surf conditions, causing surfers

to go in search of better locations and

conditions to hunt for breaking waves

that peeled off rather than crashed

straight to the beach. Basically, this was

the birth of surfing, but it was all still

longboarding

Sure the shortboard era came and

stayed, but in the background,

Longboarding still managed to tick

along. There came a full resurgence in

early 1990 as surfers saw the value and

appeal of the longboard.

The art of Longboarding is timeless, it is

an art. They say that longboard surfing

is a state of mind. An idealized stage of

mindfulness.

In the 1960’s surfing arrived in New

Zealand not surfing as we know it but

Longboarding. A few clubies were playing

with hollow surf skis but not until 1959

did two Americans come in New Zealand

and kicked alive a revolution and a

culture.

However, surfing has always been a part

of Māori culture, the practice was called

whakahekeheke. It was carried out using

a variety of craft, including boards, or

kopapa, and even bags of kelp, but the

Christian missionary ‘killjoys’ put a quick

stop to that.

Surfing came back into focus following

a tour of New Zealand by the Hawai'ian

surfer Duke Kahanamoku in 1915 at Lyall

Bay Surf Life Saving Club, in Wellington.

Where he gave demonstrations to locals

on how to surf and by the 1920s and

1930s, New Zealanders were surfing

using solid wooden boards or hollow

ones mainly for surf lifesaving.

Surfing was utilized in the Surf Lifesaving

movement, which used heavy hollow

longboards to paddle through the surf

and rescue people.

Up until this point, surfing consisted

of riding the wave in a straight line

directly to the beach. In 1958, two

American lifeguards, Bing Copeland

and Rick Stoner, came to stay at Piha

Surf Lifesaving Club and introduced

There are more longboarders in the

world than you might think. Some of them

are not full-time ‘loggers’; they own a

respectable ‘quiver’ of boards, and when

the surf is smaller, and other surfers are

sitting on the beach the longboarders can

enjoy the smaller waves as much as, the

more powerful ones.

The 1990s kicked off the nostalgia

period, and the classic longboard

shapers started getting back to the old

designs. Shapers like Roger Hall from

Surfline in Ruakaka who had never left

his roots in Longboarding began a new

era in longboarding New Zealand and

started to come up with some innovation.

Currently, he is designing board with a

wing keel that does not require a fin!

.

There is less rip and tear on a longboard

than a shortboard, but there is still a

range of moves to be made and refine.

Nose riding, tip riding, helicopters,

88//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


cross-stepping, trimming, turning

manoeuvres, tube riding and the

classic hang ten.

The original riders used to say that the

essence of Longboarding is style.

The simple joys of Longboarding is

that you will just catch far more waves

than anyone else on a shortboard no

matter the size but in particular when

it is smaller. You get to enjoy the pure

essence of surfing just like Duke

Kahanamoku and just enjoy the glide.

You will get more days on the water

– you can always find somewhere

smaller if it is too big, but you will be

having far more fun than anyone else

when its small. It is difficult to explain,

but when you feel a longboard

glide over the water, it is an entirely

different feel to that of a shortboard, it

is ageless and mesmerizing.

If you have had an injury or just

getting a few years under your belt

then longboard is for you, it is more

comfortable to paddle, easy to catch

waves, more straightforward to stand

and everything is at a slightly slower

pace.

Longboarding is also an excellent

tool for the beginner for all the same

reasons; easy to catch waves, easier

for balance and now with the new soft

top range the issue of wiping out has

fewer repercussions.

It really is about getting back to the

roots of surfing, why you did it in the

first place. Every surfing knows what

it was like when he caught his first

wave and stood up even if only for

a few seconds and Longboarding

takes you back to that moment.

It’s not about hassling for waves of

shredding waves; it’s about the fun

and comradery of it. Those images of

surfing in the early 60s with 6 guys all

on the same wave they were having

a ball. On a longboard, you can

forget the need to big airs and radical

manoeuvres and immerse your soul in

the love of surfing again.

But like all sports you can cruise, or

you can push yourself to learn some

of the critical manoeuvres, the most

thrilling of which is ‘riding the nose’

there is nothing more capitation then

having ten toes over the nose of your

board, and all you can see looking

down is water rushing by.

If you already surf get a longboard

to enjoy those smaller days and if

you don't surf, this summer get a

longboard and head to the beach,

go somewhere where it's small and

simply enjoy the glide!

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//89


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VANUATU

Guide to diving

DIVING VANUATU’S CORAL REEFS

Vanuatu is best known to divers around the world

for the wreck of the SS President Coolidge, but as a

diving destination, there is much more to Vanuatu’s

underwater world. Encircled by, and in common with,

its Pacific Ocean neighbours Fiji, New Caledonia and

the Solomon Islands, Vanuatu has rich coral reefs, a

wealth of wrecks and some great snorkelling too. It

is also home to the only underwater post office in the

world. (Seriously.)

Huge caverns and drop offs, abundant marine

life, beautiful bright corals, giant sea fans and

world-famous wrecks all contribute to Vanuatu’s

reputation as a diving destination. It is also one

of the best places for divers to see dugongs. The

landscape beneath the water mirrors that found

above: mountainous terrain with plunging cliffs,

grottoes and overhangs, huge caves and intricate

interconnecting underwater tunnels and chasms

formed by frozen lava.

Vanuatu is an island archipelago consisting of approximately

82 relatively small islands. The main islands from largest

to smallest are; Espiritu Santo, Malakula, Efate (home to

the capital Port Vila), Erromango, Ambrym and Tanna. The

islands are volcanic in origin and as a consequence, Vanuatu’s

shoreline is mostly rocky with fringing reefs and little continental

shelf, dropping rapidly into the ocean depths. This gives rise

to some exciting diving on reefs and walls, as well as some

excellent snorkelling opportunities, particularly on Tanna.

DIVING VANUATU’S WRECKS

Vanuatu became independent as recently as 1980, being

jointly administered by France and Britain, and named the New

Hebrides prior to that. Being an allied territory, it supported a

large American base during WWII and we have them to thank

for the wrecks of the SS President Coolidge, the USS Tucker

and Million Dollar Point.

Where to Dive…

There are three main regions for diving in Vanuatu; Efate,

Espiritu Santo and Tanna.

92//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


EFATE: PORT VILA AND TRANQUILLITY ISLAND

he island of Efate is surrounded by very pretty fringing

reef, a few wrecks and a stunning cavern called the

Cathedral, with stand-out dive sites including Owen’s

Reef on Tranquillity Island and West Side Story near

Hideaway Island Resort.

Diving Port Vila is easy, with a range of operators to

choose from, each of which pick up and return divers

to their hotels. Many of the best dive sites are only

minutes away. Diving is well supervised and varied,

with several wrecks, bommies, drop-offs and caverns in

the protected waters of the bay.

Port Vila is a good place to try diving for the first time,

with a Discover Scuba Diving experience, or even

learn to dive and get the Open Water Certification. With

operators such as Big Blue, lessons can often start in

the pool of your chosen resort, before you venture into

the ocean.

Introductory dives at Hideaway Island Resort and

Tranquillity Island are usually done in the clear,

protected shallows of the lagoon.

More experienced divers can dive deeper at sites

such as the Semele Federesen – the wreck of an

inter-island trader which lies with its propeller at

40m, or the Cathedral, an impressive tall narrow

cavern stretching down to 28m.

There is the wreck of the 1874 built sailing ship

Star of Russia, a three masted sailing ship in

36 meters of water. An island trader scuttled

in the harbour Konanda, and the ex-Qantas

Sandringham flying boat Tasman.

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//93


ESPIRITU SANTO

Diving Espiritu Santo is synonymous with diving the SS

President Coolidge, but it’s not the only dive in town. Wreck

diving options also include the infamous Million Dollar

Beach and the USS Tucker, and for coral lovers, there’s

plenty of fringing reefs, drop offs and coral gardens to

explore.

Being home to the world’s largest, most accessible wreck

in the world, Santo is popular with technical divers, using

their skills to plunge the depths of the SS President

Coolidge. This 33,000-tonne converted luxury liner sank

during WWII after hitting a (friendly) mine, and now rests

in depths of 21 to 70 metres. The impressive wreck is

one of the most exciting wreck dives in the world, that is

accessible to recreational divers.

If you want to see the whole wreck, you’ll need between 10

and 15 dives, and technical diving allows divers more time

to explore the seemingly endless corridors, hidden alcoves

and cavernous cargo holds.

Other technical dive sites around Santo include Million

Dollar Point where you can explore the famously dumped

WWII equipment in depths of up to 50m.

Dive Centres on Espiritu Santo, provide technical dive

training and support both open circuit and rebreather

technical divers, with a range of gases and equipment

available for hire.

For those seeking coral reefs, there’s Ratarata Reef and

two at Tutuba Island, with good chances of seeing resident

turtles, barracudas and other passing pelagics, plus

Cindy’s Reef, off Aore Island, which provides easy reef

diving with good visibility.

TANNA

Diving Tanna is very different from diving Port Vila or

Santo, as Tanna is a more remote volcanic island – with

an active volcano. Diving Tanna, you will experience

crystal clear water, colourful hard coral reefs and an

amazing topology of swim throughs and blue holes.

The diving on Tanna also offers shear vertical walls with

pelagic action including reef sharks, turtles, schools of

yellowfin tuna and barracuda as well as the wreck of a

small cargo boat.

One of the most unique aspects of diving in Tanna is

the vast amount of easily accessible swim-throughs and

caves. Some so small you question whether it’s possible

to squeeze through, but the local dive guides at Volcano

Island Divers know this fringing reef like the back of their

hand and expertly weave through it.

When to dive

Diving is possible year-round in Vanuatu, with water

temperature varying between 24ºC - 29ºC depending on

the season, with the warmest months from January to

May and the coolest in August. There is also a distinct

difference in water temperature from north in Santo, to

south, at Tanna. Rainy season runs from December to

March, however with steep drop offs this does not affect

visibility.

94//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229


vanuatu.travel


FOOTSTEPS

TASMANIA DAY-WALKS TOUR

17 March - 10 April 2022

TONGARIRO CROSSING SHUTTLES

-come and hike through our magic landscape-

We welcome your enquiry:

footstepsanz@gmail.com

or phone 021 172 3244

www.footstepswalkingclub.com

5.45am - 7.15am - 8.30am - 9.45am departures

$45per person for return trip

www.tongarirocrossingshuttles.co.nz

Tongariro National Park a Dual World Heritage Site


Tongariro Crossing Packages: B&B, Shuttle, Lunch, Spa soak From $266 -$417 per night

info@plateaulodge.co.nz | +64 7 8922993 | www.plateaulodge.co.nz

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