AUSTRALIA AND NEW
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22/11/21 4:40 pm
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ABN: 82 637 204 454
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P: 0431 844 903
Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903
Kirsten Ehrlich Davies
Cheryl D Harty
12 Palloy's Points
14 Trade Well with Rami Baron
16 JAA News
34 Lab Grown Diamonds
38 Keeping Skills Alive
40 New Products
20 White diamonds ending the year on a high
December sales and the festive season see
white diamonds selling strongly here and overseas
22 Mr Wolfe has left the building
A long-time Sydney jeweller leaves the bench
and regales us with some trade secrets
24 Launching out of lockdown
How some Aussie jewellery brands have used
the COVID down-time to rise anew
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30 Birth of an icon
New Australian watch brand, Khalsa 1699, is
barely two years but already making waves.
32 Apprentices' careers set to sparkle
Two winning students from QLD TAFE dazzle
judges with their final pieces
AUSTRALIA AND NEW
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
Khalsa 1699 Watches
jewellery world - December 2021
All Silver is Rhodium Plated
All Silver is Rhodium Plated
• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, 2020 (Homebush)
• International • Sydney AGHA Jewellery Gift Fair -September - February 21-24, 12-14, 2020 (Homebush)
• International Jewellery Fair -September 12-14, 2020 (Darling Harbour)
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Argyle’s final blue diamonds snapped up by
a single buyer
Rio Tinto’s entire 2021 Once in a Blue Moon Tender
collection of 41 lots of carefully curated Argyle blue and
violet diamonds has been won by a single bidder, the
Hong Kong fancy coloured diamond specialist, Kunming
Diamonds. Kunming Diamonds’ history-making global bid
for the 24.88 carats of final “beyond rare” blue jewels
from the East Kimberley region of Western Australia is a
significant moment in the coloured diamond industry.
Tragic jewels auctioned
Two iconic auction houses had the opportunity to sell historic royal jewellery with
a tragic backstory early in November. Christie’s in Geneva sold a pair of diamond
bracelets that once belonged to doomed French queen Marie Antoinette, and
Sotheby’s sold a sapphire and diamond brooch with matching ear clips that had
been smuggled out of Russia by the aunt of Tsar Nicholas II during the Russian
The Argyle mine sporadically produced small blue and
violet diamonds in a beautiful array of shades and with
the closure of Argyle it is extremely unlikely that there will
ever be another collective offering of iconic gems in this
colour spectrum from a single mine.
Almost the entire world’s supply of rare pink, red, blue
and violet diamonds come from Rio Tinto’s Argyle
Diamond Mine which ceased production on 3 November,
Marie Antoinette’s bracelets each featured 112 diamonds, set in silver and gold.
Before the queen was executed in 1793, she arranged for her jewellery, including
the bracelets, to be sent to Brussels, Belgium, where they were kept safe for her
only surviving child, Madame Royal Marie Therese Charlotte. Having stayed in the
possession of one family for over 200 years, the bracelets sold for US$11.1 million,
significantly over the estimated selling price of $9.3 million.
The Russian brooch sold by Sotheby’s featured a 26.80 carat oval sapphire from
Sri Lanka and the ear clips had step-cut sapphires weighing 6.69 and 9.36 carats
respectively. These jewels belonged to Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna the Elder,
whose husband Grand Duke Vladimir of Russia was the uncle of Tsar Nicholas II.
Maria Pavlovna had a passion for fine jewellery
and during the Russian Revolution, she asked a
British art dealer to smuggle 244 items of her
jewellery to London.
Besides the brooch and earrings, the collection
also included the Vladimir Tiara, which
now belongs to Queen Elizabeth II whose
grandfather George V was a cousin of Nicholas
II. Pavlovna managed to flee Russia in 1919,
the last of the Romanovs to escape, and she
died in Paris a year later.
Sleek and unique engagement ring
Kristen Stewart has announced her engagement after a
long-awaited proposal from girlfriend Dylan Meyer.
engagement ring is a sleek
brushed platinum band
in an angular design with
no stones. Jenny Luker,
president of platinum
Guild International USA
estimates that the ring cost
a modest US$2,500 and
will maintain its value over time.
Stewart hasn’t stated the ring is an engagement ring,
but she’s been spotted wearing it on the right finger
since the announcement.
jewellery world - December 2021
Specialising in Italian-made
Tennis Mounts and Gold Chains
The importance of a good workout to
a good getaway
Not your mother’s collab
Tiffany & Co have collaborated with streetwear brand Supreme to create a new “Return to
Tiffany” sterling silver collection inspired by Tiffany’s iconic pieces from the 1960s.
The collection includes Tiffany’s classic heart tag pendant which says “Please return to
Supreme New York 925” rather than the classic caption “Please return to Tiffany & Co.”
and pearl necklace with the classic oval tag, along with a star bracelet, heart tag stud
earrings and heart knife key ring, oval tag key ring.
For customers on a lower budget, there is a Tiffany Blue t-shirt featuring the Supreme logo.
Supreme is an American clothing and skateboarding lifestyle brand targeted at hip hop
cultures and youth culture in general.
Fans of Tiffany & Co are said to be disappointed at what they see as a mismatched
Rio Tinto becomes sole owner of Diavik Diamond Mine
Rio Tinto has become the sole owner of Diavik Diamond Mine in the Northwest Territories
of Canada, continuing its leading role in the Canadian diamond industry.
A transaction has been completed for Rio Tinto’s acquisition of the 40 per cent share held
by Dominion Diamond Mines. With production at Diavik expected to end in 2025, its highend,
predominantly white gem quality
diamonds with Canadian provenance
continue to be in strong demand.
Located approximately 300 km northeast
of Yellowknife, the mine employs
over 1,100 employees, of which 17
per cent are Northern Indigenous
people. In 2020, it produced 6.2
million carats of rough diamonds.
A 35-year old man has been charged for
attempting to steal a $140,000 necklace from a
jewellery store in an audacious short-lived theft.
The man entered the jewellery store in East
Maitland, NSW, and asked an attendant to
show him the 18-carat gold necklace covered in
diamonds. Yet as the attendant was placing the
necklace on the display tray, he snatched it from
her hands and bolted out of the store through the
His getaway did not go smoothly. The rather
portly thief legged it in flip-flops and dropped the
magnificent necklace on his flight to the carpark,
where the police apprehended him and place him
The necklace was retrieved by police and returned
safely to the store.
World’s oldest jewellery
Between 2014 and 2018, a team of archaeologists
discovered 33 shell beads in a cave in Western
Morocco. They’ve since been dated and clock in at
150,000 years old. This makes them the oldest piece
of jewellery yet discovered.
The beads show holes and marks
of wear and tear that indicate
they were hung on strings or from
Stephen Kuhn, professor of
anthropology at the University of
Arizona said that the beads were
“probably part of the way people
expressed their identity. They’re
clearly symbolic objects that were
deployed in a way that other people
could see them.”
He mused further: “It’s one thing to know that
people were capable of making them, but then the
question becomes, ‘OK, what stimulated them to do
jewellery world - December 2021
DIAMOND & COLOURED
STONE ENGAGEMENT RINGS
WEDDING & DRESS RINGS
Get to know us too
CIBJO Special Reports now online
The CIBJO Special Report on coloured stones has been released and looks at issues
related to ethical sourcing, and how the principles of responsible supply chain
management can be implemented without disenfranchising artisanal and small-scale
miners, and small and medium-sized enterprises.
“With the overwhelming majority of rough coloured stones produced by artisanal
small-scale mining, which in turn channels its supply through a complex trading
network that has developed organically over literally hundreds of years, the coloured
stone industry is the most fragile structurally in all of the jewellery sectors,” says the
report. “But literally millions of people rely on the income it generates, many of them
living in some of the least developed and most poverty-stricken areas of the world.”
of the artisanal mining sector means that we must be
nuanced in implementing ethical rules.”
The November CIBJO virtual congress also saw the
release of Special Reports on the pearl sector and white
diamonds. All reports can be viewed at the CIBJO website.
“If we try to impose our ethical value system without integrating the opinion and
perspective of the local populations, we are likely to be regarded as imposing a new
form of colonialism. This would be counterproductive,” the CIBJO Coloured Stone
Commission notes. “Nobody should discount making the utmost effort to have the
sourcing of our rough supply be as ethical as possible, but the complex realities
Time to buy Australian-made
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Palloys is unique in Australia, but that’s not because our size and
scale of what we can offer the jewellery sector.
Our unique position is that we
understand what matters most to your
customers, and Palloys is passionate
about partnering with you to help meet their
Palloys – the jewellery division of the Pallion
Group – is part of Australia’s largest precious
metal services group and a genuine Australian
manufacturing success story. Unlike any
other precious metals refiner or jewellery
manufacturer in Australia, we can make a
commitment no one else can.
Our sister company, ABC Refinery is Palloys
exclusive precious metals refine. With ABC
Refinery in the family, we can boast about
having the industry’s most transparent supply
chain and the largest zero-emission refining
capacity in the world.
What does this mean for you and the final
consumer? Palloys is Australia’s only jewellery
manufacturer that can trace its precious metal
supply directly to its primary source. To boot,
Palloys can make a promise, that all the gold
and silver in our ReadyMade collection is 100%
Australian gold and silver.
Total control over the entire supply chain is
a rare commodity in this market, and this is
something Palloys has.We want to help you
to provide your customers with Australian
sourced and produced gold.
To prove where
our gold and
our Au and
to the customer that this ReadyMade is
comprised of ethically sourced and produced
Australian precious metals. Introducing these
hallmarks to the Australian customer is about
our commitment to Considerate® Precious
To build a trusted brand, and to allow you as
a jeweller to demonstrate a commitment of
transparency around traceability of gold and
silver. We understand consumers are asking
where these precious metals came from, and
Palloys Au and Ag hallmarks will give your
customers that clarity.
Palloys chooses to be a market leader every
day. We look to move forward. We have
multiple companies that we use to recycle
products we can’t internally reuse. We
don’t toss things into landfill. Yes, this is an
expensive process, but our clients expect us
to be industry leaders in this regard. Together
with our clients and partners, we understand
it’s better to invest in sustainable practices
Regulations are lagging what consumers
demand. Therefore, it’s up to businesses to
lead the way and let the regulations catch
up to us. Consumers want action. Lip service
is no longer excusable at the retail end. The
end users are aware of the environmental
impacts that come from consumption, and
they want to know that their purchases aren’t
contributing to unethical practices.
My advice to jewellery companies looking to
become sustainability leaders? Investigate your
supplier. Ask them hard questions about where
and how their precious metals are sourced.
What are their commitments to better their
environmental practices? More importantly,
is this information freely available on their
Partnering with Palloys is about helping you
assure your customers that we are committed
to offering Considerate® Precious Metals.
jewellery world - December 2021
New range of fine gemstones in stock and online now
Images: Burmese Ruby 6.1x6.1mm Cushion 1.11cts / Blue Ceylon Sapphire 8.9x7.5mm Emerald Cut 3.65cts / Teal Madagascan Sapphire 9.9x7.8mm Oval 3.56cts
EXPERIENCES WE CAN
GIVE OUR CUSTOMERS
Creating a great customer experience doesn’t have to mean
hosting high-rollers on a private yacht.
recently read an article about Bulgari going
into the hotel business. Apparently, if you
want to stay in their incredible apartment
in Paris, you must be a client who has spent 1
million Euro with them. Graff has an estate in
the Hawequa Nature Reserve in South Africa,
but this one is open to the public at $2,000
per night. Cheap, huh?
Closer to home, there is the VIP Paspaley
Pearl Farm Tour, which is well known for
taking special customers to their pearl farms
in the NorthernTerritories for a few days and
giving them an incredible experience of the
bush and the pearl farms. It allows them to
build an amazing rapport, ensuring that these
customers will be with them for life.
Some jewellers hire out beautiful yachts to
do Xmas parties and some hold them in swish
restaurants. Let’s be realistic.You need to be
prepared to drop a minimum of $50,000 and
anywhere up to $100,000 plus to really blow
away people who would frequently attend
Or do you?
Let’s ask ourselves why hold an event? Simple.
Your supposedly loyal customers are being
strategically targeted by your competition,
the big brands, for their luxury spend. It’s
not the jeweller down the road who is your
real competition.It’s the online and big brand
stores whose super marketing machines will
pinpoint when your customer has a special
event in their life and drop in that Tiffany or
Cartier ad into their Facebook or Instagram at
that perfect time. That just-after-dinner ping.
They even get the price point just right.
You know it’s true. So, what do you intend to
do about it?
Your relationship, of course. You know these
people and they know you. A fancy dinner
may be the go, but what about making it more
authentic? What about throwing a picnic
or BBQ at a park or beach nearby? I am not
telling you anything new.You need to build
your relationship with your clients beyond
the store or showroom. Meeting them in a
social environment builds a whole different
dynamic. It is these types of interactions
which keep you front of mind for months,
or even years, especially if they had a good
time. You don’t need to sell to them here, just
talk. Introduce people to each other, build
your own community on a local level, which
is something that the big brands can’t do,
something that you bring to the party that
they rarely can. You, the owner and maybe
family members, are all building on who the
people in this business really are.
You could do this very economically.You
could make it fun with games and prizes all
themed around jewellery. I would analyse
the demographics of my customers. Are they
mainly engagement ring couples or older
and more retirees? Do I cater to a fast crowd
who travel a lot or tradies? Spend the time to
think of a concept that the majority will feel
comfortable with, not just what you like.
jewellery world - December 2021
President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia
You could bring buskers to provide live music, maybe an early dinner
for young families (you’re saving a tired parent from having to cook
that night, always appreciated). Make sure you have photographers
for heaps of social media content and it’s super important to make it
easy for your customers to send a google review afterwards about how
much fun they had.
The majority of people who read this will think ‘wow, such a good
idea’ — and do nothing. Why? Because it’s an effort. It takes time and
planning and, truth be told, money is probably the easiest part.
Think about hiring a party planner. Find one person at work who
would love to head up the project and have some group brainstorming
sessions to come up with fun gift ideas.
Nothing worthwhile is easy. You know the famous saying: if it was easy
everyone would do it.
I would create a love heart card and envelope where partners could
write their name and fill in their jewellery wish list, and they could
throw it into a sealed box. Now you have some great info to contact
their partners and plan the next purchase.
I have attended some jeweller’s cocktail parties in their showrooms
and have seen them provide mini lectures to a select group.There are
so many ways for you to connect. Maybe you do a joint party with two
other businesses in the area that complement and don’t compete with
each other, thereby reducing the costs and also giving you a chance to
meet new potential customers.
Why don’t you ask a diamond dealer to loan you a 10ct diamond ring
and have your customers come try it on and do selfies?
Regale your customers, entice, and excite them through experiences.
Having a meal with them and not selling is the most powerful
relationship builder you can create.They will talk about it to everyone.
It could be the best money you spend, and open up a whole new
dimension to your business.
Trade well,,, Rami Baron.
LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY
Tel: (02) 9266 0636 | firstname.lastname@example.org
My immediate response when Jo Tory advised
she would be stepping down from her JAA
Presidency, nominating me as President was,
“You leave very big shoes to fill, Jo!”
Jo has been a powerhouse in leading the
Jewellers Association of Australia. The Board
and I graciously thank her for service and her
continued passion for the Australian jewellery
Jo’s decision to step down from her role, prior
to the end of term, comes due to increasing
personal and business commitments. Jo
will continue as a JAA director, having been
elected to the Board in 2017.
Jo says, “It is with regret I have needed to
step down at this time however, due to a
combination of personal and business matters
arising at the same time, I have needed to
divert my focus. I am confident in Karen’s
ability to lead the (JAA) Board and I will be
there in support as I continue my term as a
With a passion and dedication that has
spanned over 30-plus years, and experience
across all sectors of the jewellery industry, the
Australian jewellery industry has been my life
from the time I was 16 years old. I joined the
JAA Board in early 2021 as owner/managing
director of Brilliamo Designer Jewellery and
bespoke jewellery designer of Denaro Designs
- my experience also extends to media and
I am incredibly honoured to have been elected
President of the JAA by my fellow Board
directors. I am committed to serve the benefit
of our JAA members and to foster unity across
all sectors of the wider jewellery industry,
both in Australia and abroad. I welcome the
opportunity to discuss any industry matters or
concerns with all jewellery trade contributors,
associations and affiliates.
Upon my appointment, I had the privilege
of being invited to connect with jewellery
industry leaders, gem, diamond and
jewellery experts and international peers,
willingly sharing their expertise, wealth of
knowledge and experience, over two weeks
of commission meetings with The World
Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO).
The JAA supports our industry to flourish
through progression, sustainability, and ethics,
whilst sharing collective experience and
imparting valuable knowledge right through
the entire jewellery industry supply chain, to
our valued consumers.
In mid-November, Megan and I hosted this
year’s JAA Australasian Jewellery Awards
judges – three highly skilled, diverse, and
award-winning Australian jewellers, united
at Cerrone Jewellers’ opulent head office to
critique this year’s JAA Australasian Jewellery
Awards entrants’ pieces. We invite you to vote
for your favourite entry in the People’s Choice
Award. Voting opens in early December at
I hope to see you all in Melbourne, on Sunday,
6 February 2022 to celebrate our 90th
anniversary and to unveil the JAA Australasian
Jewellery Awards 2022 Jeweller of the Year!
jewellery world - December 2021
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By Stefan Juengling
WHITE DIAMONDS ENDING
THE YEAR ON A HIGH
The latest results from De Beers Group and Alrosa both show consumer demand for
diamond jewellery will remain high and fuel upstream sales of rough. Plus, with December
and the lead up to Christmas typically being one of the busiest times of year for jewellers
and wholesalers, sales for engagement rings, bands and diamond staples are expected to
do well. With input from two major players in the Australian diamond industry, we sought
to discover how well this year has been and how it will end for white diamonds
Sales soaring in all stone types
As detailed in a recent article from National
Jeweler, the consulting and data aggregating
company The Edge Retail Academy reported
that sales of diamond products are up 40 per
cent over the past 12 months. This success is
concurred by our contributors with director
Nirav Shah from Affection Diamonds reporting
that sales are even higher than last year, and
still continuing to grow.
As for the types of diamonds that are selling
well, he said they are selling round and fancy
shapes like oval, pear, marquise and others in
fair amounts equally.
for fancy cuts from
last year,” he said.
Shweta Khan is
owner of both
Adelaide-based diamond wholesaler Akshmi
Diamonds, and Brisbane-based retail diamond
jeweller Starfire Diamonds, and she said that
sales for diamonds and diamond jewellery
have been strong due to the shortage of wellpriced,
quality diamonds in the world market.
However she said round brilliant cut diamonds
are always in demand.
“We see other cuts go up and
down in demand but rounds
have always been our staple as
there is always a market for it,”
She said that at one stage oval
cut diamonds were popular
and they couldn’t get enough
of them, which pushed up the
“Princess and cushion cuts are
How are the stone stocks?
With business doing so well, it’s obviously
important to keep enough stock on hand to
meet demand. Shweta said that stock levels
at Akshmi Diamonds change and they stock
a range of cuts, primarily round brilliant cut
diamonds followed by ovals and other fancy
“The stock sizes range from the small sizes all
the way up to 2 to 3 carat,” she said.
“We are strong in E – F colour SI.”
jewellery world - December 2021
colour diamonds, and all manner of unique
“We are strong in from the smallest diamond
up-to substantial large diamonds in white,
colours and all fancy diamonds,” he said.
Lab created diamonds’ place
When probed on the impact lab created
diamonds have had on the natural diamond
market, Nirav said that lab created diamonds
are a viable alternative option for consumers
who want a larger size
diamond, but without
the budget to afford
a natural diamond of
“Also termed ‘Ethical
Diamonds’ they seem
to resonate with the
that see it as being a
Shweta believes natural and lab grown
diamonds have their own share of the
clientele and function cooperatively rather
than competitively alongside each other.
“For us, natural diamond sales have not been
affected by lab grown diamonds,” she said.
“Both are having good sales simultaneously.
A shift in taste: quality over price
Asked about how
in diamonds have
shifted over the
past five years,
Shweta said there
has been a move
better quality diamonds rather than bigger,
“With all the information out in the market,
people are appreciating quality over price,”
Nirav said he’s noticed consumers moving
toward a greater variety in diamond shapes,
colours and sizes.
Preparing for the Christmas
As mentioned earlier, Christmas is typically
one of the busiest times of year for jewellers
and wholesalers, and our contributors have
come prepared, and expecting big things.
Nirav said that solitaire diamond rings as well
as diamond studs and bracelets will do well.
Shweta is cautiously optimistic about the
festive season, concurring that it too is the
busiest time for Akshmi Diamonds and Starfire
Diamonds, but that that may all change with
the state borders reopening. She also opined
that they will be a demand for gemstones as
well as diamonds.
“In recent times there has been more and
more demand for bright coloured gemstones,
this may be because as a population we need
some brightness in our lives?” she said.
She also said that both tennis bracelets and
stacker rings have been in demand, and she
expected that to continue for the rest of the
December 2021 21
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MR WOLFE HAS LEFT
Well-respected Sydney jeweller Grahame Wolfe is retiring. The Trust Building – a hundred-year
old Sydney landmark where jewellers have ruled the various floors since the 1930s – won’t be the
same without him. We spoke to Mr Wolfe about his 66 years in the jewellery industry.
Mr Wolfe, also known as Mr Fix It and
the ‘preferred repairer’ of high-end
brands like Tiffany, Cartier and
George Jenson, has been in the industry since
1955. He is a highly successful jeweller who
has made his wealth by doing tough repair
Although very humble and down to earth, Mr
Wolfe does enjoy the finer things in life. He
loved to travel around the world first class with
his wife and always made sure they had a trip
booked to London to visit their daughter and
fellow jewellers in Hatton Garden.
Here’s what he had to say…
What made you want to become a
I always fiddled around with things! I left
school and worked in a deli for three weeks
and it taught me one thing — never get
involved with food, it’s hard work! My mother
found a job in the paper and she said
“Grahame, you should apply for this. You like
playing around with things.” So I did and I
got the job. It’s funny, but with jewellery you
either like it or you don’t. I loved it.
What is the secret to your long
I learnt to make very good jewellery but at the
same time I learnt to repair it. I worked in a
little shop down Castlereagh street in the CBD
called R J Marshall. He was a good jeweller and
I learnt handmade work and repairs from him.
That’s when I started repairing jewellery and
have done it ever since. I’m more interested in
repairing things than making things.
What things to you find yourself
repairing most often?
Generally rings. I remember there was this
one ring years ago that I had to repair. It was a
coronet and it was so full of gunk that when I
started to heat it with the flame it burnt like a
candle from all the rubbish and oil inside. Get
your rings and jewellery checked at least once
a year and look after them!
What do you love about the
I suppose repairs are interesting to me
because no one job is the same. When I get
sick of one job I can put it down and just pick
up another one.
What are some of the most
interesting changes you’ve
witnessed in the industry?
It’s gone from a lot of handmade work to CAD
castings. But from as far as repairs go, it still
has to be someone like me. Also laser welding
is another thing that’s happened, which I also
What’s the craziest job request
You get asked to fix all sorts of things. You can
get asked to fix a bit of porcelain and glue it
together. I’ve had brooches that have flown off
and have been run over by a car. When they
get to me you can see it’s been run over by a
car because it’s not only flat it’s got the road
imprinted in them.
The other ones have been George Jensen
silver spoons and forks that have gone
through a incinerator and have been mangled
up. So, I have special dollies for spoons in
various sizes so I can hammer them all up and
get them back in shape. They are probably
one of the oddest things I get.
What’s your favourite tool?
A file and the blow pipe.
The blow pipe because I can control the flame
and use two hands. No one seems to have one
like mine anymore but I’ve had it forever. You
get quite good at it, I can get down to a really
fine point and solder.
What qualities do you look for in
the perfect repair?
A happy customer.
What’s the best advice you could
give to an upcoming jeweller?
Learn to do repair work. I’ve asked a lot of
guys over the years to send their apprentices
up to me to have a talk but they never
do — it doesn’t interest them. I remember
when I started technical college, the guy I
worked with said “When you go to tech, the
kids there, they’ll ask you what you do, and
when you tell them repairs they’ll sneer at
you. Remember one thing: you make a lot of
money doing repairs.” He was right. You do.
We’d like to thank Mr Wolfe for sharing his
passion and knowledge for jewellery and
repairs, and also for continuing to inspire the
next generation of jewellers.
Mr Wolfe’s door has always been open to
everyone in the Trust Building in Sydney. His
office is like a museum of jewellery curiosities
collected over many years. His warm smile will
be missed by many but there’s no doubt he’ll
be popping back to the Trust Building to share
jewellery world - December 2021
By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies
As businesses reopen after the forced retreat of lockdown in time for
Christmas, many jewellery businesses are emerging stronger than
ever, having used the time to reassess and streamline
their business practices.
Lockdown has been a productive time
for many jewellery businesses, and now
they are emerging with stronger more
streamlined practices, ready to launch into
Christmas both in-store and online. The
relatively quiet period of lockdown was an
opportunity to reassess their practices, plan
future collections and refine new selling
Focusing on new strategies
Lockdown gave jewellery businesses the
opportunity to streamline and expand, while
exploring new marketplaces.
Melinda Carey, Creative Director of Georgini
says that lockdown was an opportunity to
achieve “dive deep into the statistical analysis
of our products and sales.”
“The balance between creative and control
is a tricky one to achieve and
lockdown gave us the
opportunity to get this
right,” said Melinda.
“We worked hard
on creating product
balance for each
collection to ensure
efficient stock carry
within a collection – for
example, the right balance
between rings, earrings and pendants,
without overstocking our retailers.”
Cheryle Roberts of Stones & Silver says the
company previously relied heavily on trade
fairs, and needed to find some new platforms
due to COVID restrictions and lockdown.
“The absence of trade fairs has definitely
forced us to change the way we do business,
and this has proved beneficial,” said Cheryle.
“We needed to come up with a strategy to get
our product out to our customers, and source
new customers. We have increased our sales
rep team across Australia and New Zealand,
and are now spending more quality time face
to face with our customers.”
Creating new approaches
As COVID has limited in-store browsing for
customers, jewellery brands need to find
new innovative ways to promote
Stones and Silver
Melinda from Georgini
says that lockdown
was an opportunity to
upgrade their digital
assets for the benefit of
“With every collection
since mid-2020 we have
Stones and Silver
provided a fashion shoot, on-model imagery
and high-res product images as well as style
guides and looks books,” said Melinda.“This
has really helped our customers with their
online sales, as consumers want to see how
the product looks on, how to style it and the
story about it. This is a huge investment in
not only resources but time and creativity
for our team. But it has been exceptionally
beneficial in not only the branding growth of
Georgini but increasing the digital sales for our
Georgini also implemented a new approach of
sending samples to customers, to provide the
tactile connection with the new collections.
“One of the challenges we faced was the
tactility of the product to be able to touch
and feel,” said Melinda. “We couriered
samples to customers and we even put on
new staff members in New Zealand so when
the windows were open we could see our
customers as quickly as possible.”
jewellery world - December 2021
Cheryle Roberts from Stones & Silver said that
planning new collections was a high priority
during the quiet phase of lockdown.
“Even with no trade shows, it is still so
important to continue to develop your brand
and bring in new collections,” said
“Customers still want to see the latest
trends and be ready for when things
Ron Loccisano of Searay said that the
repeated lockdowns in Melbourne
forced the company to brainstorm new,
innovative ways to assist their trusted
retailers with stock supply.
“Searay introduced seamless virtual
appointments, which proved to be very
efficient for busy retailers and helpful for
those who preferred to speak and ‘see’ us
rather than place an order via the website,”
It was as simple as a ‘click a link’ and let
Searay take over from there. Ironically,
meeting virtually was most beneficial for
retailers who preferred an offline rather than
online experience. The change-up has proven
so beneficial, that Searay is convinced virtual
appointments are here to stay!
Relying on strong relationships
The jewellery business has a symbiotic
structure, with designers, manufacturers,
suppliers and retailers all supporting
and relying on each other. These strong
relationships were essential during COVID.
Melinda said that the Georgini’s strong longterm
relationship with their manufacturers
really paid off during COVID. “We never
experienced shortages of stock and are very
well stocked for Christmas,” said Melinda.
“Even during lockdown, our efficient stock
monitoring meant that we always stayed
She says that communication is the key to
weathering tough times.
“Our sales managers and our retailers
have the kind of relationship where they
can keep up honest communication
and they have a real desire to work
together to achieve great outcomes.
Having great people in our team
certainly helped keep our sales moving.
And retailers are a resilient bunch of
people! They ride the ups and downs
Cheryle said that COVID has taught
everyone that patience is required in
all aspects of business now!
“That includes allowing for longer
than normal delivery times from our
overseas suppliers. However, lockdowns
have made us more organised and we have
adjusted our strategy in getting our orders
in much quicker so as to allow for some
slightly longer delivery times,” Cheryle said.
Cheryle says that staying ahead
of schedule was an important
strategy to counteract any delays.
“We used lockdown to get our
orders in early and delivered to
us in plenty of time,” she said.“We
are now fully stocked with loads of
new lines, core basics and one-off
“We have very long-standing
relationships with our suppliers
so we used the lockdowns to
communicate and liaise with the
to develop new ranges, including
our beautiful Oro Bella Matte Gold
range, just in time for Christmas.”
Stones and Silver
December 2021 27
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By Cheryl D. Harty
BIRTH OF AN ICON
Khalsa 1699 Watches was launched mid 2020 and in just over a
year has carved out a niche for stylish timepieces that are unique in
bearing the revered Khanda insignia.
The brand had its genesis in 2019 when
Khalsa 1699 Watches founder and CEO,
Danny Singh was staying at the Savoy in
London. One morning at breakfast he invited
two guests, an Italian and an Englishman to
join his table. Their discussions that day would
inspire Mr Singh’s next business move.
“At the time I had been looking for a new
venture and as I shook hands and walked away
from the table, I had decided to design my
own range of watches. I then spent the most
frustrating afternoon of my life. I did not know
what logo to use and what I would call them,”
the Melbourne-based businessman recalled.
Still grappling with the conundrum back at
his hotel he tried to get some sleep later that
“That night, the answer came to me in a
dream. While I was sleeping, I dreamt of
the flag flying above the Golden Temple. It
seemed to be telling me: ‘Why are you looking
for a symbol when you are born into the Sikh
heritage? You are born into this symbol.’”
The triangular flag flying above the Golden
Temple – spiritually the most significant
shrine in Sikhism - is known as the Nishan
Sahib which carries the Sikh symbol of
Khanda. Sikhism is the religion and philosophy
founded in the Punjab region of the Indian
subcontinent. Danny Singh is a Sikh and the
second generation of his family to be born
outside the subcontinent in Australia.
At 4am, he got out of bed, sat down and
began to draw the Khanda Sahib emblem he
had seen on the flag in his dream. “It was as
though in the chaos of life I had forgotten
my spiritual identity. The dream gave me a
pathway to a new reality,” he recalled.
Mr Singh looked to the 320th anniversary of
the founding of the revered Khalsa movement,
Khalsa 1699, to inspire his new watch brand.
Sikhs regard the Khanda as the symbol of the
Khalsa faith. Each watch in the Khalsa 1699
range carries the Khanda symbol, reflecting
an exotic martial heritage and embodying the
spirit of freedom.
Khalsa 1699 is the only brand in the world to
use the revered Khanda symbol as its logo.
The watches are designed in Australia and
manufactured in Switzerland and Hong Kong.
Materials, proportions, movements and
contrasting elements are purposely selected
for each watch style.
The Khalsa 1699 Watches range caters for
men and women. Models include Ocean Lion,
Heritage, Speedster, Kaur, Enigma and Divine.
The first watch to be released under the
Khalsa 1699 brand was a professional diver’s
watch dubbed Ocean Lion, which was
launched in July 2021. Designed to operate in
depths of up to 500 metres, the Swiss made
watch features luminous dial indicators to
ensure optimal visibility. Made with over 200g
of stainless steel, it has an open case back.
“When I knew I had to bring out a watch
with the revered Khan Sahib on it, I knew
it could not be a cheap one. The Ocean
Lion is a diver’s dream watch,” Mr Singh
said. One hundred pieces of the Ocean Lion
were initially released and sold. A second
generation of Ocean Lion watches featuring an
embossed Khanda on the buckle has also been
released onto the market and has moved well.
Today the Khalsa 1699 Ocean Lion collection
comprises three styles: Stealth Commander,
Abyss Black and Marine Blue.
“The Ocean Lion watch is a very masculine
piece and has got a real force. The lion is a
symbol of Khalsa and is a title that is given to
every Sikh man as his middle name, which is
Singh. The lion is very close and dear to all us
in our culture. Thus the name, Ocean Lion.
“We also have the highly coveted Singh watch.
The world’s first super luminous watch, it
jewellery world - December 2021
comes in a limited edition of 5000 pieces,” he
The Khalsa 1699 Singh watch has a Khanda
Sahib stamped into the clasp and crown and
a deep etched lion’s head and Khanda crown
etched into the back of the case. Each one is
numbered with a lifetime warrantly.
In November, 2021, Khalsa 1699 introduced
the first Ocean Lion watch with a diamond,
sapphire and ruby bezel.
“We have come up with an original design
for the bezel which will be unique to us in
style in the way the diamonds are set and the
colour combination. I have had our jewellery
team working on it very hard. We will have
these bezels available from the website as
an add-on. If somebody wants to buy one of
these luxury watches, we will organise the
Ocean Lion and will then source the bezel
through our company jewellers. We will
create and manufacture the watch, put the
bezel on the watch face and then deliver the
completed watch,” Mr Singh explained.
The luxury aquatic Sea Tiger, a 200
metre dive watch, is scheduled to
be released onto the market in
December. With a AAA grade
finish, this marine sports
watch has a 43mm
diameter case, luminous
indicators and features
an embossed logo on the
second hand and back.
The dial has a raised logo
and the rotor through
the sapphire glass on the
case back also carries the
“This Swiss-made automatic
marine sport watch is a distinctive
statement piece in style and
manufacturing. It is a wonderful way
to arrive into the watch market and a great
way to make an entrance,” Mr Singh said.
He pointed out that the Ocean Lion, Sea Tiger
and Singh watches are rare and made only in
limited quantities. “When you combine the
heritage, the story behind each model and the
rarity of the watch, it becomes an extremely
valuable piece,” he said.
Mr Singh said he was surprised at how well
the brand had performed to date. “I came up
with the Khalsa 1699 Watches concept
at the end of 2019 and launched the
brand in 2020, during a pandemic. We
went full swing and worked hard.
In one year we sold over 15,000
watches. From November last
year, sales really took off.”
The collection has a wide
appeal. “Buyers see our
watches are beautiful
and they want them.
Many don’t care about
the historical origins of the
brand. The design and quality
appeal to everybody. They carry
a great universal charm that meets
everybody’s taste effortlessly,” Mr
Women’s styles in the Khalsa 1699 range
such as Heritage, Kaur and Divine have all
been well received. The elegant and feminine
Kaur series includes the stunning Crystal Kaur,
a rose gold plated alloy watch that features a
white dial encrusted with dozens of genuine
A Khanda features on the watch face while
another is stamped into the crown.
Online platform, House of Khalsa, lists all
styles and prices in the Khalsa 1699 Watches
collection accompanied by detailed images
and specifications. Presently the brand is
carried by 11 stockists globally. In 2022,
the brand will release a smart watch and
introduce its first 18 KT gold watches on to
the market. A pilot’s watch and a Swiss ladies
watch are also under development.
“Our aim is to bring excellence to the Khalsa
1699 Watches brand. We are a lot more
than just watches. We are creating watches
that are collectable and can be passed on
as heirlooms. They are inspired by history
with undeniable roots of deep cultural
magnificence and martial heritage. We feel
that we have been very blessed,” Mr Singh
Those interested in becoming authorised
dealers of Khalsa 1699 Watches can contact
Mr Singh through the House of Khalsa
website. The House of Khalsa also has an
accessory offer with a parfum to be added
next year to its recently launched sunglasses
December 2021 31
CAREERS SET TO
For the first time in its 18 year history, two apprentice jewellers will share TAFE
Queensland's Jewellery Apprentice of the Year award after the pair took out the
top honour at a recent prestigious awards night.
The fourth-year apprentices' Brock Hodgson (25) and Paul
Armstrong (37), are completing their studies at TAFE
Queensland's South Bank campus, which sees them attend
intensive block training from world-class teachers.
"I have loved my block training through TAFE Queensland,"
Brock said. "My teacher is so helpful and knowledgeable when
demonstrating technical aspects of jewellery manufacturing."
"The on-campus training blocks were so important for learning
techniques that you don't learn at work. My classmates were also
jewellery apprentices, and being able to discuss what we were
learning was a great aspect of the training."
Brock's sentiments were echoed by co-winner Paul, a mature
apprentice who started working with jewellery after engraving items
and repairing watches with Mr Minit.
"We all come from different backgrounds, different areas of the
industry and have different career trajectories, so we share and learn
a lot when we're together," said Paul.
After returning to work from his block training, both Brock and Paul
noticed how enhanced their skills were, thanks to the hands-on
training in world-class facilities with access to modern equipment
found in any manufacturing and design studio around the world.
"During every training block, we fine-tuned our skills by learning
different methods and techniques. Our teachers were also supportive
and encouraging every time we began learning a new facet of
jewellery making," Paul said.
Held each year, the Apprentice Jeweller of the Year Awards celebrate
the talent and creativity of Certificate III in Jewellery Manufacturing
graduates through an awards program that forms their final
Graduates have four weeks to design and manufacture three pieces
of jewellery that meet specific criteria and fit with a unique theme.
The awards acknowledge the quality, artistry, strength, durability and
wear-ability of students' designs and the overall quality of the finish.
This year's theme was
Reflections, which allowed
the apprentice jewellery
students' imaginations and
technical skills to run wild.
Paul, who has been
apprenticeships at Hogans
Family Jewellers, says that
using his creativity to design
unique bespoke pieces for
the event was an excellent
way to showcase the skillset
he perfected during his studies.
Paul Armstrong's winning entries
Brock Hodgson's winning pieces
"I made a pair of sunglasses with interchangeable lenses, gold inlays
and gems set in one arm with matching cufflinks and a signet ring
which both also had gold inlays and diamonds set in each piece,"
Brock, an apprentice with Stephen Dibb Jewellery, handmade a
matching set of winning pieces that included a ring, pendant and
"After I finished and submitted my pieces, I was content because I
was so proud of my work. I wasn't stressed as I didn't expect to win.
All the different entries showcased each of our different strengths,
and I thought a few of the others were definite winners," continued
On the other hand, Paul went through a roller-coaster of emotions
after submitting his pieces and waiting for the big night.
"Waiting for awards night was agony - the anticipation and
excitement were incomparable to anything I'd experienced before.
And when I heard my name announced as the winner, I was ecstatic!"
His delight with reflected by Brock, who described his win as
absolutely amazing. "I was shocked I won but also insanely proud of
my entry - it was genuinely one of the best days I've ever had," said
jewellery world - December 2021
effort each has
made to find
put in the work
over the past
Paul Armstrong and Brock Hodgson
"Winning is an amazing feeling. To have our skills and knowledge
recognised in this is mind-blowing. Both of our families and friends are
all proud of us, and I know this is my life's calling," concluded Paul.
TAFE Queensland Director of Faculty Creative Arts and Digital Design,
Jackie French, said having two award winners was a total surprise – but
the judges could not separate the two.
"The judges and I were blown away by the quality of everyone's
jewellery, particularly considering how disruptive COVID has been on
everyone's studies," said Ms French.
"It is incredible to think that students have created the stunning pieces
on display - young people, who are only just starting in the industry."
"Everyone was amazed by the range of talent entering the industry
– it's inspiring, particularly when jewellery manufacturing, like all
manufacturing, has been impacted during COVID."
"As we continue to recover from the pandemic, and consumers return
and drive demand in the jewellery industry, TAFE Queensland must
provide its apprentices with the skills they need to be employable now
and well into the future," concluded Ms French.
Other award winners include:
• Rising Star Award – Declan Stewart
• Rising Star Award Runner Up –Stefanie Cleeton
• Best Overall Design Award – Paul Armstrong
• Best Technical Aspects Award –Brock Hodgson
• Best Design Folio Award - Paul Armstrong
• Queensland Jewellery Apprentice of the Year Award – Paul Armstrong
& Brock Hodgson
• Employer of the Queensland Jewellery Apprentice of the Year –
Stephen Dibb Jewellery
• Employer of the Queensland Jewellery Apprentice of the Year – Hogan
For more information about TAFE Queensland's courses or to apply and
change your career, visit tafeqld.edu.au or call 1300 308 233.
CEO, JC Jewels
IN THE NEW NORMAL
I wrote an article a while back entitled Are you selling lab grown diamonds?
In it, I asked if you should be selling lab grown diamonds. Now I am saying if
you're not offering lab grown diamonds, why not?
Change is the only constant. I use
lab grown diamonds as an example
of just one monumental change in
our industry, but look around you: since
COVID-19 started, everything in our personal
lives has changed. In business, I completely
transformed my business model from an
age-old business model that had not changed
The retail landscape definitely changed, so
as we return to work, what have you done
in preparation and adaptation to excite your
clients and lift the game in store?
My company, JC Jewels, has gone all in, beta
tested and placed a major focus on lab grown
diamonds and technology to help our clients,
the retailer, sell more diamonds. As a supplier,
this is imperative to keep our clients inline
with the new norm. This has given us the
largest footprint in Australia in our space. Let
me explain how we can help you, with no
dollar investment, but rather an investment in
What made me engage in lab grown
diamonds and technology?
I have built up and closed a family business
in the past. At its peak, it was very successful
but it was failing to move with the times and
so it cost me and my family the business. This
proved to me the only constant is change.
Continual change should be part of your
company’s ethos. When I was first introduced
to lab grown diamonds, I did my research.
I took a leap of faith engaging the biggest
change in my working career, much to my
father’s disappointment being a second
generation diamantaire. Then I embraced
technology. Your client, the consumer, is
engaging these two things in a big way.
Consumers have shifted the manner in which
they engage, research, and transact. It would
be foolish not to acknowledge how important
technology is today, and yes, you need this in
Shoppers are demanding faster engagement,
more detail, education and certainly delivered
with better levels of digital engagement than
ever and at store level – not just in your online
and social presence.
They expect more diversification and choice,
and you need the digital platforms to deliver
this well, in your buying, selling and, most
important, delivery in store. The internet has
spoiled consumers across all industries. They
have come to expect the same in store.
In the jewellery space, with engagement
rings in particular, the consumer wants to
buy from a trusted jeweller. They absorb
extensive online research but, thankfully,
most consumers still want to touch, feel, try
on and buy from their trusted jeweller. Their
expectation with the delivery
of sales staff is high,
jewellery world - December 2021
engagement and presentation in store, empowering them with
more choice, ranges and optionality. This in itself is proving to close
The likes of Blue Nile and other online sellers have undoubtedly
empowered the consumer with the knowledge needed to push
the retailers to reduce margins, but on the upside a well-trained
sales person can identify these clients, take advantage of this as
the consumer is already educated, then close the sale faster. And
yes, perhaps on lower margin but if this is executed well your
conversion rate will increase, resulting in a higher conversion rate
with lower margins but more profitability overall.
How much have you changed your business in the past 12 months?
In my company, I employ a full-time in-house tech team. We have
a tech department — how crazy! Talk about change. Who would
have thought a diamond merchant would have an in-house tech
team? We are constantly developing and upgrading our technology
to help jewellers sell more diamonds, to empower and assist you,
the retailer. This gives you faster delivery and an exciting overall
experience. We teach retailers to select their own goods from over
100,000 certified stones in real time. This is far more advantageous
to retailers as they no longer have to rely on what the diamond
merchant wants to sell anymore. Those days are gone.
Our change is working. We realise retailers profitability is also
in their buying – an imperative step when you have to compete
with online sellers. This is fast becoming the new norm in most
industries. Our industry needs to ensure we keep up with consumer
expectations in store. For our clients, we developed a simple tech
package that will monumentally change your business, take you
to the source, and let you decide what to sell. Please create an
account with JC Jewels (www.jcjewels.com.au) and let us take your
business to the new norm and next level.
Attend the Jewellery
Industry Fair, and win!
Guests at the Jewellery Industry Fair will
have the chance to win an incredible
selection of Prizes, including:
thanks to NCJV
National Council of Jewellery Valuers
February 6 & 7
The Timber Yard
A set of Lab Grown
Diamond earrings with
a matching necklace
thanks to JC Jewels
Visit the Jewellery Industry Fair
in Melbourne this February, for
your chance to win!
Register your ticket for the fair
Terms and Conditions are listed on
the Jewellery Industry Fair website.
Jewellery Industry Network
SEE YOU AT THE FAIR
Kicking off 2022 with a fabulous February fair sounds like the
perfect way to start the year for your business.
The end of the year is approaching and
the start of a fresh and exciting new
one is on the horizon, bringing with it a
luxurious jewellery event in Melbourne – the
Jewellery Industry Fair.
With dozens of suppliers all bringing new
designs, ranges and something to offer, the
Fair is the perfect spot for the jewellery
industry to reunite and restock ready for a
new year, going live on the 6th and 7th of
Fair organiser, the Jewellery Industry Network,
is excited to see the event bring something
new to the industry with a dedicated event
which inspires and invigorates industry
Held at the Timber Yard in Melbourne, the
event brings together high end luxury with the
rustic and artisanal side of the industry. The
venue holds character and charm, and really
speaks to the incredible craftsmanship of the
jewellery industry. The fusion of this venue
and luxurious fine jewellery will bring a unique
feeling and experience to the industry which
will inspire the year ahead.
Exhibitors at the Fair are some of the
industry's most dedicated suppliers, with
high end jewellery, diamonds, lab grown
diamonds, branded ranges, precious metals,
pearls and so much more! A list of exhibitors
is on the Jewellery Industry Fair website, and
Upon entrance to the Fair, guests will be
greeted with a showbag of goodies and a
glass of bubbles to start the fair in style.
Walking down the lawn of the Timber Yard,
guests can then immerse themselves in the
story of how jewellery is made with the Fair
Mine to Market gallery, before entering the
hall of exhibitors.
While shopping at the Fair, guests can also
go into the draw to win a selection of prizes,
including $2000 from the National Council
of Jewellery Valuers, and a set of lab grown
diamond earrings and necklace thanks to JC
During the event, guests can choose to
experience a selection of other activities
which will encourage networking and be
educational and inspiring.
Bringing together industry associations, the
Jewellery Industry Fair is also excited to play
host to the entrants of the JAA Jewellery
Design Awards pieces. Award celebrations
then continue on Sunday 6 February at the
The Fair will be a true celebration of the
industry, with the team at the Jewellery
Industry Network committed to ensuring the
event is not only safe, but also great fun and
gives businesses the ability to trade and set
themselves up for 2022.
A warm welcome is extended to all jewellery
businesses in the trade for the February
event. Tickets can be booked online via the
Jewellery Industry Fair website.
December 2021 37
KEEPING SKILLS ALIVE
Stone Set Cross
When I first started teaching apprentices, I noticed that there
were some skills gaps in their training, such as ajour cut work
(French for opening that lets in light). This is the traditional way
to finish the bottom of settings maximising the light onto the
stone. So, I promptly introduced this old-school technique to the
program.This is a great introduction to ajour cutting. Once it is
mastered, the eternity ring project will not seem so difficult.
1This project is made to fit 15 x
2.5mm stones and is made with
sterling silver 4.5mm x 4.5mm x
60mm stock gauge squarewire or
you can melt 12 grams and roll to 4.5mm
square. Reduce to 3.5mm square but
maintain the sharp edges. To do this,
carefully roll it through the flat sections
of the roll mill turning as you go. If you
tighten the rolls too much the profile
Anneal and flatten it out to get it
perfectly straight. Square off one end
and set your dividers to 3.5mm. Mark
off seven spaces then cut and square
off the other end. Mark off 9 spaces on the
remaining square wire. Cut and square off
the ends. The remaining wire can be rolled
and used to make the bail.
The two pieces now need to
friction fit into each other by
making a box joint. Cut out half of
the centre square section of the
shorter piece. Use your square needle
file to finish off shaping the cutand test
fit using the remaining square wire. Now
cut out half of the fourth square along
on the longer piece.
File a little over halfway to ensure
the joint is perfectly flush and make
sure that there are no gaps around
the joint. It is bad practice to overuse
solder to fill them. Ideally,the two parts
should hold together and not fall apart
when they are connected.
Flux the inside of the box joint and
lock them firmlytogether. Give the
joint a firm tap with your mallet to
ensure it is really tight.
Hard solder the joint and pickle to remove
Re-establish the spacing with your
dividers and scribe lines across
the front. Check with a set square.
Cut the lines with a 4/0 or 5/0 saw blade
to the depth of around half the blade
thickness, then cut the lines down the
sides. Again, use a set square to confirm
that all your lines are perfectly square.
jewellery world - December 2021
Now mark out for the square holes
at the back of the cross.Set your
dividers to slightly under 1mm and
scribe around the outside of the cross. To
scribe the inner ladder marks, keep the
same setting on your dividers and scribe
double lines across using your dividers
and ruler. You should be able to see the
side cut marks and use them to locate the
Now drill through each setting with
a 1mm pilot drill. Keep turning the
cross over to check that you are
drilling straight. Open the holes out with
a 1.2mm drill and make any necessary
corrections. Countersink the holes with
a ball bur that’s around 2.2mm. You can
also countersink the underside as this will
assist when you start to perform the ajour
Insert a 4/0 or 5/0 saw blade into a
setting and begin the cutting work
by angling the blade forwards. Keep
the blade moving as you first cut into the
corners forming a star shape. Then scrape
the blade along the scribe line from corner
to corner. Cutting squares can be tricky and
may result in some accidental cuts past the
scribe line. Try to stay well within the scribe
lines for you first attempts. You can perfect
the work once you have some experience.
The aim of the game is to look
for improvement with each one.
Do not obsess about obtaining
perfection at first, and don’t be
too concerned if you mess up the first few
Before you work on the sides, cut cross lines
intothe top of each square setting. Now angle
your blade to 45° and cut down the sides from
the centre cuts. Saw until your blade reaches
the centre of the top and side of the setting.
11number of different burs. The
To create the round openings
in the settings you could use a
obvious one to use is a cone bur.
Drive the point of the bur in but make
sure you do not cut through the top of
the side setting. Switch to a round bur
to finish off. This will make the openings
Once all the cutwork is
completed you can make a
simple bail and solder it to the
The assessment of your saw cutting
skills should be done at this stage before
any stone setting is carried out. A selfassessment
sheet is in the curriculum.
The online course includes video
instructions for setting round stones into
Peter Keep is a
and teacher. He
that have helped
the world improve
Jewellery Training Solutions offers a comprehensive online training service
including the popular Ten Stage Apprenticeship Course.
Check out the other courses and options at
December 2021 39
Bianc | +61 413 872 810
The Lapis Lazuli Edit | Make a grand entrance with Bianc’s latest
additions to the Lumiere Collection. An exquisite range featuring
textured gold plated sterling silver and luxurious lapis lazuli, this
collection will turn heads this season.
Everything is ready for order available now. Bianc product prices range
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Stones and Silver | +61 3 9587 1215
Direct from Italy, our stunning new Oro Bella Collection has arrived.
Set in .925 sterling silver with matte gold plating this collection is
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Modern designs combined with timeless elegance it’s the perfect
addition to your collection.
Zahar | +61 413 872 810
Zahar brings you textured gold goodness from the Indiana Collection.
Featuring crushed gold bangles, bold chains and statement earrings,
there is a piece for any occasion.
Everything is available now and ready for order! Zahar product prices
range between RRP $39-$139.
Jewellery Centre | +61 7 3221 3838
Jewellery Centre’s new range of lockets includes:
Sterling silver round criss-cross pattern locket
9ct yellow gold border pattern oval locket
9ct yellow gold beaded and engraved border oval locket
jewellery world - December 2021
Ellendale Diamonds Australia
Desert Rose Jewellery | +61 8 6111 1961
An exquisite matching pendant & earring set features rare
certified Argyle pink diamonds.
18K white/rose gold pendant, featuring a 13.5mm Broome
South Sea pearl, set with round diamonds F SI 0.14 carats and
complimented with a round 0.09 carat 6P SI pink diamond from
the Argyle diamond mine.
18K white/rose gold hook earrings, set with 14mm Broome
South Sea Pearls and claw set with two 7P pink diamonds 0.09ct
each from the Argyle mine, accented with white F-G SI round
diamonds totalling 0.32ct.
At Ellendale Diamonds, we have secured 1000
carats of origin guaranteed Argyle white diamond
melee. Perfect for your client's custom-made
Get in quick so you don't miss out!
Contact us for further details.
Suite 5, Level 1, 428 George Street SYDNEY NSW 2000
P +61 2 8065 8533 E firstname.lastname@example.org
PO Box 112
Toronto NSW 2283
P: 02 9380 4742 ∙ F: 02 8580 6168
Adela Imports offer over 180
designs of sterling silver chain,
with up to 20 lengths available
in each from stock.
Also offering a range of
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Also specialising in quality
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Lancier Watch Bands - Leather, metal, sports.
Watchglasses. Seals. Batteries. Quartz Movements.
Pins/tools. Jewellery findings. J C Hurst Bangles.
Fischer Barometers and Tide Clocks
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Wishing you all the best for 2022.
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FEBRUARY 6 & 7
THE TIMBER YARD, MELBOURNE
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