Jewellery World Magazine - December 2021

JewelleryWorldMagazine

This issue looks at white diamonds and a new Australian watch brand.

DECEMBER 2021

AUSTRALIA AND NEW

ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

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DEC-21

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Jewellery World Magazine

ABN: 82 637 204 454

ISSN: 2207-6751

PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570

P: 0431 844 903

Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au

Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au

Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au

managing director

Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903

jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au

editor

editor@jewelleryworld.net.au

contributing writers

Kirsten Ehrlich Davies

Stefan Juengling

Cheryl D Harty

art

design@jewelleryworld.net.au

advertising sales

sales@jewelleryworld.net.au

REGULARS

6 News

12 Palloy's Points

14 Trade Well with Rami Baron

16 JAA News

34 Lab Grown Diamonds

38 Keeping Skills Alive

40 New Products

52 Directory

FEATURES

20 White diamonds ending the year on a high

December sales and the festive season see

white diamonds selling strongly here and overseas

22 Mr Wolfe has left the building

A long-time Sydney jeweller leaves the bench

and regales us with some trade secrets

24 Launching out of lockdown

How some Aussie jewellery brands have used

the COVID down-time to rise anew

20

24

30

DISCLAIMER:

This publication may not be reproduced

in whole or part without the written

permission of the Publisher.

Articles express the opinions of the

authors and are not necessarily those of the

Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or

service in this magazine does not indicate the

Publisher’s endorsement.

The Publisher excludes all liability for

loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false

or misleading statements that may appear

in this publication.

All information is copyright.

30 Birth of an icon

New Australian watch brand, Khalsa 1699, is

barely two years but already making waves.

32 Apprentices' careers set to sparkle

Two winning students from QLD TAFE dazzle

judges with their final pieces

AUSTRALIA AND NEW

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DECEMBER 2021

ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

FRONT COVER

Khalsa 1699 Watches

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4

jewellery world - December 2021


All Silver is Rhodium Plated

All Silver is Rhodium Plated

• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, 2020 (Homebush)

• International • Sydney AGHA Jewellery Gift Fair -September - February 21-24, 12-14, 2020 (Homebush)

(Darling Harbour)

• International Jewellery Fair -September 12-14, 2020 (Darling Harbour)

TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU

TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU


News

Argyle’s final blue diamonds snapped up by

a single buyer

Rio Tinto’s entire 2021 Once in a Blue Moon Tender

collection of 41 lots of carefully curated Argyle blue and

violet diamonds has been won by a single bidder, the

Hong Kong fancy coloured diamond specialist, Kunming

Diamonds. Kunming Diamonds’ history-making global bid

for the 24.88 carats of final “beyond rare” blue jewels

from the East Kimberley region of Western Australia is a

significant moment in the coloured diamond industry.

Tragic jewels auctioned

Two iconic auction houses had the opportunity to sell historic royal jewellery with

a tragic backstory early in November. Christie’s in Geneva sold a pair of diamond

bracelets that once belonged to doomed French queen Marie Antoinette, and

Sotheby’s sold a sapphire and diamond brooch with matching ear clips that had

been smuggled out of Russia by the aunt of Tsar Nicholas II during the Russian

Revolution.

The Argyle mine sporadically produced small blue and

violet diamonds in a beautiful array of shades and with

the closure of Argyle it is extremely unlikely that there will

ever be another collective offering of iconic gems in this

colour spectrum from a single mine.

Almost the entire world’s supply of rare pink, red, blue

and violet diamonds come from Rio Tinto’s Argyle

Diamond Mine which ceased production on 3 November,

2020.

Marie Antoinette’s bracelets each featured 112 diamonds, set in silver and gold.

Before the queen was executed in 1793, she arranged for her jewellery, including

the bracelets, to be sent to Brussels, Belgium, where they were kept safe for her

only surviving child, Madame Royal Marie Therese Charlotte. Having stayed in the

possession of one family for over 200 years, the bracelets sold for US$11.1 million,

significantly over the estimated selling price of $9.3 million.

The Russian brooch sold by Sotheby’s featured a 26.80 carat oval sapphire from

Sri Lanka and the ear clips had step-cut sapphires weighing 6.69 and 9.36 carats

respectively. These jewels belonged to Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna the Elder,

whose husband Grand Duke Vladimir of Russia was the uncle of Tsar Nicholas II.

Maria Pavlovna had a passion for fine jewellery

and during the Russian Revolution, she asked a

British art dealer to smuggle 244 items of her

jewellery to London.

Besides the brooch and earrings, the collection

also included the Vladimir Tiara, which

now belongs to Queen Elizabeth II whose

grandfather George V was a cousin of Nicholas

II. Pavlovna managed to flee Russia in 1919,

the last of the Romanovs to escape, and she

died in Paris a year later.

Sleek and unique engagement ring

Kristen Stewart has announced her engagement after a

long-awaited proposal from girlfriend Dylan Meyer.

Stewart’s apparent

engagement ring is a sleek

brushed platinum band

in an angular design with

no stones. Jenny Luker,

president of platinum

Guild International USA

estimates that the ring cost

a modest US$2,500 and

will maintain its value over time.

Stewart hasn’t stated the ring is an engagement ring,

but she’s been spotted wearing it on the right finger

since the announcement.

6

jewellery world - December 2021


Specialising in Italian-made

Tennis Mounts and Gold Chains


News

The importance of a good workout to

a good getaway

Not your mother’s collab

Tiffany & Co have collaborated with streetwear brand Supreme to create a new “Return to

Tiffany” sterling silver collection inspired by Tiffany’s iconic pieces from the 1960s.

The collection includes Tiffany’s classic heart tag pendant which says “Please return to

Supreme New York 925” rather than the classic caption “Please return to Tiffany & Co.”

and pearl necklace with the classic oval tag, along with a star bracelet, heart tag stud

earrings and heart knife key ring, oval tag key ring.

For customers on a lower budget, there is a Tiffany Blue t-shirt featuring the Supreme logo.

Supreme is an American clothing and skateboarding lifestyle brand targeted at hip hop

cultures and youth culture in general.

Fans of Tiffany & Co are said to be disappointed at what they see as a mismatched

partnership.

Rio Tinto becomes sole owner of Diavik Diamond Mine

Rio Tinto has become the sole owner of Diavik Diamond Mine in the Northwest Territories

of Canada, continuing its leading role in the Canadian diamond industry.

A transaction has been completed for Rio Tinto’s acquisition of the 40 per cent share held

by Dominion Diamond Mines. With production at Diavik expected to end in 2025, its highend,

predominantly white gem quality

diamonds with Canadian provenance

continue to be in strong demand.

Located approximately 300 km northeast

of Yellowknife, the mine employs

over 1,100 employees, of which 17

per cent are Northern Indigenous

people. In 2020, it produced 6.2

million carats of rough diamonds.

A 35-year old man has been charged for

attempting to steal a $140,000 necklace from a

jewellery store in an audacious short-lived theft.

The man entered the jewellery store in East

Maitland, NSW, and asked an attendant to

show him the 18-carat gold necklace covered in

diamonds. Yet as the attendant was placing the

necklace on the display tray, he snatched it from

her hands and bolted out of the store through the

shopping centre.

His getaway did not go smoothly. The rather

portly thief legged it in flip-flops and dropped the

magnificent necklace on his flight to the carpark,

where the police apprehended him and place him

under arrest.

The necklace was retrieved by police and returned

safely to the store.

World’s oldest jewellery

Between 2014 and 2018, a team of archaeologists

discovered 33 shell beads in a cave in Western

Morocco. They’ve since been dated and clock in at

150,000 years old. This makes them the oldest piece

of jewellery yet discovered.

The beads show holes and marks

of wear and tear that indicate

they were hung on strings or from

clothing.

Stephen Kuhn, professor of

anthropology at the University of

Arizona said that the beads were

“probably part of the way people

expressed their identity. They’re

clearly symbolic objects that were

deployed in a way that other people

could see them.”

He mused further: “It’s one thing to know that

people were capable of making them, but then the

question becomes, ‘OK, what stimulated them to do

it?’”

8

jewellery world - December 2021


We know

Brilliance

LOOSE DIAMONDS

DIAMOND & COLOURED

STONE ENGAGEMENT RINGS

COLOURED GEMSTONES

WEDDING & DRESS RINGS

CAD DESIGN

Get to know us too


News

CIBJO Special Reports now online

The CIBJO Special Report on coloured stones has been released and looks at issues

related to ethical sourcing, and how the principles of responsible supply chain

management can be implemented without disenfranchising artisanal and small-scale

miners, and small and medium-sized enterprises.

“With the overwhelming majority of rough coloured stones produced by artisanal

small-scale mining, which in turn channels its supply through a complex trading

network that has developed organically over literally hundreds of years, the coloured

stone industry is the most fragile structurally in all of the jewellery sectors,” says the

report. “But literally millions of people rely on the income it generates, many of them

living in some of the least developed and most poverty-stricken areas of the world.”

of the artisanal mining sector means that we must be

nuanced in implementing ethical rules.”

The November CIBJO virtual congress also saw the

release of Special Reports on the pearl sector and white

diamonds. All reports can be viewed at the CIBJO website.

“If we try to impose our ethical value system without integrating the opinion and

perspective of the local populations, we are likely to be regarded as imposing a new

form of colonialism. This would be counterproductive,” the CIBJO Coloured Stone

Commission notes. “Nobody should discount making the utmost effort to have the

sourcing of our rough supply be as ethical as possible, but the complex realities

Time to buy Australian-made

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Web: www.millenniumchain.com.au

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Melbourne 3000 Victoria

Millennium Chain

Finished Top 5 in the category of

Best Selling Gold Jewellery Suppliers in

Australia and NZ, as voted by retailers.

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PALLOYS POINTS

Chris Botha,

Operations Manager, Jewellery Division

Palloys

100 % AUSTRALIAN GOLD

AND AU/AG HALLMARK

Palloys is unique in Australia, but that’s not because our size and

scale of what we can offer the jewellery sector.

Our unique position is that we

understand what matters most to your

customers, and Palloys is passionate

about partnering with you to help meet their

expectations.

Palloys – the jewellery division of the Pallion

Group – is part of Australia’s largest precious

metal services group and a genuine Australian

manufacturing success story. Unlike any

other precious metals refiner or jewellery

manufacturer in Australia, we can make a

commitment no one else can.

Our sister company, ABC Refinery is Palloys

exclusive precious metals refine. With ABC

Refinery in the family, we can boast about

having the industry’s most transparent supply

chain and the largest zero-emission refining

capacity in the world.

What does this mean for you and the final

consumer? Palloys is Australia’s only jewellery

manufacturer that can trace its precious metal

supply directly to its primary source. To boot,

Palloys can make a promise, that all the gold

and silver in our ReadyMade collection is 100%

Australian gold and silver.

Total control over the entire supply chain is

a rare commodity in this market, and this is

something Palloys has.We want to help you

to provide your customers with Australian

sourced and produced gold.

To prove where

our gold and

silver originates,

we developed

our Au and

Ag hallmark,

confirming

to the customer that this ReadyMade is

comprised of ethically sourced and produced

Australian precious metals. Introducing these

hallmarks to the Australian customer is about

our commitment to Considerate® Precious

Metals.

To build a trusted brand, and to allow you as

a jeweller to demonstrate a commitment of

transparency around traceability of gold and

silver. We understand consumers are asking

where these precious metals came from, and

Palloys Au and Ag hallmarks will give your

customers that clarity.

Palloys chooses to be a market leader every

day. We look to move forward. We have

multiple companies that we use to recycle

products we can’t internally reuse. We

don’t toss things into landfill. Yes, this is an

expensive process, but our clients expect us

to be industry leaders in this regard. Together

with our clients and partners, we understand

it’s better to invest in sustainable practices

now.

Regulations are lagging what consumers

demand. Therefore, it’s up to businesses to

lead the way and let the regulations catch

up to us. Consumers want action. Lip service

is no longer excusable at the retail end. The

end users are aware of the environmental

impacts that come from consumption, and

they want to know that their purchases aren’t

contributing to unethical practices.

My advice to jewellery companies looking to

become sustainability leaders? Investigate your

supplier. Ask them hard questions about where

and how their precious metals are sourced.

What are their commitments to better their

environmental practices? More importantly,

is this information freely available on their

website?

Partnering with Palloys is about helping you

assure your customers that we are committed

to offering Considerate® Precious Metals.

12

jewellery world - December 2021


New range of fine gemstones in stock and online now

www.oagems.com

Images: Burmese Ruby 6.1x6.1mm Cushion 1.11cts / Blue Ceylon Sapphire 8.9x7.5mm Emerald Cut 3.65cts / Teal Madagascan Sapphire 9.9x7.8mm Oval 3.56cts


EXPERIENCES WE CAN

GIVE OUR CUSTOMERS

Creating a great customer experience doesn’t have to mean

hosting high-rollers on a private yacht.

I

recently read an article about Bulgari going

into the hotel business. Apparently, if you

want to stay in their incredible apartment

in Paris, you must be a client who has spent 1

million Euro with them. Graff has an estate in

the Hawequa Nature Reserve in South Africa,

but this one is open to the public at $2,000

per night. Cheap, huh?

Closer to home, there is the VIP Paspaley

Pearl Farm Tour, which is well known for

taking special customers to their pearl farms

in the NorthernTerritories for a few days and

giving them an incredible experience of the

bush and the pearl farms. It allows them to

build an amazing rapport, ensuring that these

customers will be with them for life.

Some jewellers hire out beautiful yachts to

do Xmas parties and some hold them in swish

restaurants. Let’s be realistic.You need to be

prepared to drop a minimum of $50,000 and

anywhere up to $100,000 plus to really blow

away people who would frequently attend

lavish events.

Or do you?

Let’s ask ourselves why hold an event? Simple.

Your supposedly loyal customers are being

strategically targeted by your competition,

the big brands, for their luxury spend. It’s

not the jeweller down the road who is your

real competition.It’s the online and big brand

stores whose super marketing machines will

pinpoint when your customer has a special

event in their life and drop in that Tiffany or

Cartier ad into their Facebook or Instagram at

that perfect time. That just-after-dinner ping.

They even get the price point just right.

You know it’s true. So, what do you intend to

do about it?

Your relationship, of course. You know these

people and they know you. A fancy dinner

may be the go, but what about making it more

authentic? What about throwing a picnic

or BBQ at a park or beach nearby? I am not

telling you anything new.You need to build

your relationship with your clients beyond

the store or showroom. Meeting them in a

social environment builds a whole different

dynamic. It is these types of interactions

which keep you front of mind for months,

or even years, especially if they had a good

time. You don’t need to sell to them here, just

talk. Introduce people to each other, build

your own community on a local level, which

is something that the big brands can’t do,

something that you bring to the party that

they rarely can. You, the owner and maybe

family members, are all building on who the

people in this business really are.

You could do this very economically.You

could make it fun with games and prizes all

themed around jewellery. I would analyse

the demographics of my customers. Are they

mainly engagement ring couples or older

and more retirees? Do I cater to a fast crowd

who travel a lot or tradies? Spend the time to

think of a concept that the majority will feel

comfortable with, not just what you like.

14

jewellery world - December 2021


DDCA NEWS

Rami Baron

President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia

rami@ddca.org.au

IP107-9YK

You could bring buskers to provide live music, maybe an early dinner

for young families (you’re saving a tired parent from having to cook

that night, always appreciated). Make sure you have photographers

for heaps of social media content and it’s super important to make it

easy for your customers to send a google review afterwards about how

much fun they had.

IP3556N-9YG

The majority of people who read this will think ‘wow, such a good

idea’ — and do nothing. Why? Because it’s an effort. It takes time and

planning and, truth be told, money is probably the easiest part.

Think about hiring a party planner. Find one person at work who

would love to head up the project and have some group brainstorming

sessions to come up with fun gift ideas.

IP82-G014-9Y

Nothing worthwhile is easy. You know the famous saying: if it was easy

everyone would do it.

I would create a love heart card and envelope where partners could

write their name and fill in their jewellery wish list, and they could

throw it into a sealed box. Now you have some great info to contact

their partners and plan the next purchase.

IKE03-9YG

I have attended some jeweller’s cocktail parties in their showrooms

and have seen them provide mini lectures to a select group.There are

so many ways for you to connect. Maybe you do a joint party with two

other businesses in the area that complement and don’t compete with

each other, thereby reducing the costs and also giving you a chance to

meet new potential customers.

Why don’t you ask a diamond dealer to loan you a 10ct diamond ring

and have your customers come try it on and do selfies?

IP82-G014-9YB

Regale your customers, entice, and excite them through experiences.

Having a meal with them and not selling is the most powerful

relationship builder you can create.They will talk about it to everyone.

It could be the best money you spend, and open up a whole new

dimension to your business.

Trade well,,, Rami Baron.

LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY

Tel: (02) 9266 0636 | enquiries@ikecho.com.au

www.ikecho.com.au


PRESIDENT'S

MESSAGE

Karen Denaro

My immediate response when Jo Tory advised

she would be stepping down from her JAA

Presidency, nominating me as President was,

“You leave very big shoes to fill, Jo!”

Jo has been a powerhouse in leading the

Jewellers Association of Australia. The Board

and I graciously thank her for service and her

continued passion for the Australian jewellery

industry.

Jo’s decision to step down from her role, prior

to the end of term, comes due to increasing

personal and business commitments. Jo

will continue as a JAA director, having been

elected to the Board in 2017.

Jo says, “It is with regret I have needed to

step down at this time however, due to a

combination of personal and business matters

arising at the same time, I have needed to

divert my focus. I am confident in Karen’s

ability to lead the (JAA) Board and I will be

there in support as I continue my term as a

director.”

With a passion and dedication that has

spanned over 30-plus years, and experience

across all sectors of the jewellery industry, the

Australian jewellery industry has been my life

from the time I was 16 years old. I joined the

JAA Board in early 2021 as owner/managing

director of Brilliamo Designer Jewellery and

bespoke jewellery designer of Denaro Designs

- my experience also extends to media and

business consulting.

I am incredibly honoured to have been elected

President of the JAA by my fellow Board

directors. I am committed to serve the benefit

of our JAA members and to foster unity across

all sectors of the wider jewellery industry,

both in Australia and abroad. I welcome the

opportunity to discuss any industry matters or

concerns with all jewellery trade contributors,

associations and affiliates.

Upon my appointment, I had the privilege

of being invited to connect with jewellery

industry leaders, gem, diamond and

jewellery experts and international peers,

willingly sharing their expertise, wealth of

knowledge and experience, over two weeks

of commission meetings with The World

Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO).

The JAA supports our industry to flourish

through progression, sustainability, and ethics,

whilst sharing collective experience and

imparting valuable knowledge right through

the entire jewellery industry supply chain, to

our valued consumers.

In mid-November, Megan and I hosted this

year’s JAA Australasian Jewellery Awards

judges – three highly skilled, diverse, and

award-winning Australian jewellers, united

at Cerrone Jewellers’ opulent head office to

critique this year’s JAA Australasian Jewellery

Awards entrants’ pieces. We invite you to vote

for your favourite entry in the People’s Choice

Award. Voting opens in early December at

jaa.com.au/vote.

I hope to see you all in Melbourne, on Sunday,

6 February 2022 to celebrate our 90th

anniversary and to unveil the JAA Australasian

Jewellery Awards 2022 Jeweller of the Year!

16

jewellery world - December 2021


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By Stefan Juengling

WHITE DIAMONDS ENDING

THE YEAR ON A HIGH

The latest results from De Beers Group and Alrosa both show consumer demand for

diamond jewellery will remain high and fuel upstream sales of rough. Plus, with December

and the lead up to Christmas typically being one of the busiest times of year for jewellers

and wholesalers, sales for engagement rings, bands and diamond staples are expected to

do well. With input from two major players in the Australian diamond industry, we sought

to discover how well this year has been and how it will end for white diamonds

Sales soaring in all stone types

As detailed in a recent article from National

Jeweler, the consulting and data aggregating

company The Edge Retail Academy reported

that sales of diamond products are up 40 per

cent over the past 12 months. This success is

concurred by our contributors with director

Nirav Shah from Affection Diamonds reporting

that sales are even higher than last year, and

still continuing to grow.

As for the types of diamonds that are selling

well, he said they are selling round and fancy

shapes like oval, pear, marquise and others in

fair amounts equally.

Affection Diamonds

“We have

experienced

increased demand

for fancy cuts from

last year,” he said.

Shweta Khan is

Affection Diamonds

owner of both

Adelaide-based diamond wholesaler Akshmi

Diamonds, and Brisbane-based retail diamond

jeweller Starfire Diamonds, and she said that

sales for diamonds and diamond jewellery

have been strong due to the shortage of wellpriced,

quality diamonds in the world market.

However she said round brilliant cut diamonds

are always in demand.

“We see other cuts go up and

down in demand but rounds

have always been our staple as

there is always a market for it,”

she said.

She said that at one stage oval

cut diamonds were popular

and they couldn’t get enough

of them, which pushed up the

price.

“Princess and cushion cuts are

steady.”

How are the stone stocks?

With business doing so well, it’s obviously

important to keep enough stock on hand to

meet demand. Shweta said that stock levels

at Akshmi Diamonds change and they stock

a range of cuts, primarily round brilliant cut

diamonds followed by ovals and other fancy

cuts.

“The stock sizes range from the small sizes all

the way up to 2 to 3 carat,” she said.

“We are strong in E – F colour SI.”

Affection Diamonds

20

jewellery world - December 2021


Nirav said

that Affection

Diamonds have

an amazing

range which

covers white

diamonds,

colour diamonds, and all manner of unique

hard-to-find diamonds.

Affection Diamonds

“We are strong in from the smallest diamond

up-to substantial large diamonds in white,

colours and all fancy diamonds,” he said.

Lab created diamonds’ place

When probed on the impact lab created

diamonds have had on the natural diamond

market, Nirav said that lab created diamonds

are a viable alternative option for consumers

who want a larger size

diamond, but without

the budget to afford

a natural diamond of

equal size.

Starfire Diamonds

“Also termed ‘Ethical

Diamonds’ they seem

to resonate with the

younger generation

that see it as being a

conflict-free option,”

he said.

Starfire Diamonds

Shweta believes natural and lab grown

diamonds have their own share of the

clientele and function cooperatively rather

than competitively alongside each other.

“For us, natural diamond sales have not been

affected by lab grown diamonds,” she said.

“Both are having good sales simultaneously.

A shift in taste: quality over price

Asked about how

consumer taste

in diamonds have

shifted over the

past five years,

Shweta said there

has been a move

towards smaller,

better quality diamonds rather than bigger,

lower quality.

Affection Diamonds

“With all the information out in the market,

people are appreciating quality over price,”

she said.

Nirav said he’s noticed consumers moving

toward a greater variety in diamond shapes,

colours and sizes.

Preparing for the Christmas

diamond boom

Starfire Diamonds

As mentioned earlier, Christmas is typically

one of the busiest times of year for jewellers

and wholesalers, and our contributors have

come prepared, and expecting big things.

Nirav said that solitaire diamond rings as well

as diamond studs and bracelets will do well.

Shweta is cautiously optimistic about the

festive season, concurring that it too is the

busiest time for Akshmi Diamonds and Starfire

Diamonds, but that that may all change with

the state borders reopening. She also opined

that they will be a demand for gemstones as

well as diamonds.

“In recent times there has been more and

more demand for bright coloured gemstones,

this may be because as a population we need

some brightness in our lives?” she said.

She also said that both tennis bracelets and

stacker rings have been in demand, and she

expected that to continue for the rest of the

year.

December 2021 21


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MR WOLFE HAS LEFT

THE BUILDING

Well-respected Sydney jeweller Grahame Wolfe is retiring. The Trust Building – a hundred-year

old Sydney landmark where jewellers have ruled the various floors since the 1930s – won’t be the

same without him. We spoke to Mr Wolfe about his 66 years in the jewellery industry.

Mr Wolfe, also known as Mr Fix It and

the ‘preferred repairer’ of high-end

brands like Tiffany, Cartier and

George Jenson, has been in the industry since

1955. He is a highly successful jeweller who

has made his wealth by doing tough repair

jobs.

Although very humble and down to earth, Mr

Wolfe does enjoy the finer things in life. He

loved to travel around the world first class with

his wife and always made sure they had a trip

booked to London to visit their daughter and

fellow jewellers in Hatton Garden.

Here’s what he had to say…

What made you want to become a

jeweller?

I always fiddled around with things! I left

school and worked in a deli for three weeks

and it taught me one thing — never get

involved with food, it’s hard work! My mother

found a job in the paper and she said

“Grahame, you should apply for this. You like

playing around with things.” So I did and I

got the job. It’s funny, but with jewellery you

either like it or you don’t. I loved it.

What is the secret to your long

successful career?

I learnt to make very good jewellery but at the

same time I learnt to repair it. I worked in a

little shop down Castlereagh street in the CBD

called R J Marshall. He was a good jeweller and

I learnt handmade work and repairs from him.

That’s when I started repairing jewellery and

have done it ever since. I’m more interested in

repairing things than making things.

What things to you find yourself

repairing most often?

Generally rings. I remember there was this

one ring years ago that I had to repair. It was a

coronet and it was so full of gunk that when I

started to heat it with the flame it burnt like a

candle from all the rubbish and oil inside. Get

your rings and jewellery checked at least once

a year and look after them!

What do you love about the

industry?

I suppose repairs are interesting to me

because no one job is the same. When I get

sick of one job I can put it down and just pick

up another one.

What are some of the most

interesting changes you’ve

witnessed in the industry?

It’s gone from a lot of handmade work to CAD

castings. But from as far as repairs go, it still

has to be someone like me. Also laser welding

is another thing that’s happened, which I also

use.

What’s the craziest job request

you’ve had?

You get asked to fix all sorts of things. You can

get asked to fix a bit of porcelain and glue it

together. I’ve had brooches that have flown off

and have been run over by a car. When they

get to me you can see it’s been run over by a

car because it’s not only flat it’s got the road

imprinted in them.

The other ones have been George Jensen

silver spoons and forks that have gone

through a incinerator and have been mangled

up. So, I have special dollies for spoons in

various sizes so I can hammer them all up and

get them back in shape. They are probably

one of the oddest things I get.

What’s your favourite tool?

A file and the blow pipe.

The blow pipe because I can control the flame

and use two hands. No one seems to have one

like mine anymore but I’ve had it forever. You

get quite good at it, I can get down to a really

fine point and solder.

What qualities do you look for in

the perfect repair?

A happy customer.

What’s the best advice you could

give to an upcoming jeweller?

Learn to do repair work. I’ve asked a lot of

guys over the years to send their apprentices

up to me to have a talk but they never

do — it doesn’t interest them. I remember

when I started technical college, the guy I

worked with said “When you go to tech, the

kids there, they’ll ask you what you do, and

when you tell them repairs they’ll sneer at

you. Remember one thing: you make a lot of

money doing repairs.” He was right. You do.

We’d like to thank Mr Wolfe for sharing his

passion and knowledge for jewellery and

repairs, and also for continuing to inspire the

next generation of jewellers.

Mr Wolfe’s door has always been open to

everyone in the Trust Building in Sydney. His

office is like a museum of jewellery curiosities

collected over many years. His warm smile will

be missed by many but there’s no doubt he’ll

be popping back to the Trust Building to share

his wisdom.

24

jewellery world - December 2021


By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies

LAUNCHING OUT

OF LOCKDOWN

As businesses reopen after the forced retreat of lockdown in time for

Christmas, many jewellery businesses are emerging stronger than

ever, having used the time to reassess and streamline

their business practices.

Lockdown has been a productive time

for many jewellery businesses, and now

they are emerging with stronger more

streamlined practices, ready to launch into

Christmas both in-store and online. The

relatively quiet period of lockdown was an

opportunity to reassess their practices, plan

future collections and refine new selling

platforms.

Focusing on new strategies

Lockdown gave jewellery businesses the

opportunity to streamline and expand, while

exploring new marketplaces.

Melinda Carey, Creative Director of Georgini

says that lockdown was an opportunity to

achieve “dive deep into the statistical analysis

of our products and sales.”

“The balance between creative and control

is a tricky one to achieve and

lockdown gave us the

opportunity to get this

right,” said Melinda.

“We worked hard

on creating product

balance for each

collection to ensure

efficient stock carry

within a collection – for

example, the right balance

between rings, earrings and pendants,

without overstocking our retailers.”

Cheryle Roberts of Stones & Silver says the

company previously relied heavily on trade

fairs, and needed to find some new platforms

due to COVID restrictions and lockdown.

“The absence of trade fairs has definitely

forced us to change the way we do business,

and this has proved beneficial,” said Cheryle.

“We needed to come up with a strategy to get

our product out to our customers, and source

new customers. We have increased our sales

rep team across Australia and New Zealand,

and are now spending more quality time face

to face with our customers.”

Creating new approaches

As COVID has limited in-store browsing for

customers, jewellery brands need to find

new innovative ways to promote

their collections.

Stones and Silver

Melinda from Georgini

says that lockdown

was an opportunity to

upgrade their digital

assets for the benefit of

their customers.

“With every collection

since mid-2020 we have

Stones and Silver

provided a fashion shoot, on-model imagery

and high-res product images as well as style

guides and looks books,” said Melinda.“This

has really helped our customers with their

online sales, as consumers want to see how

the product looks on, how to style it and the

story about it. This is a huge investment in

not only resources but time and creativity

for our team. But it has been exceptionally

beneficial in not only the branding growth of

Georgini but increasing the digital sales for our

customers.”

Georgini also implemented a new approach of

sending samples to customers, to provide the

tactile connection with the new collections.

“One of the challenges we faced was the

tactility of the product to be able to touch

and feel,” said Melinda. “We couriered

samples to customers and we even put on

new staff members in New Zealand so when

the windows were open we could see our

customers as quickly as possible.”

26

jewellery world - December 2021


Cheryle Roberts from Stones & Silver said that

planning new collections was a high priority

during the quiet phase of lockdown.

“Even with no trade shows, it is still so

important to continue to develop your brand

and bring in new collections,” said

Cheryle.

Georgini

“Customers still want to see the latest

trends and be ready for when things

open up.”

Ron Loccisano of Searay said that the

repeated lockdowns in Melbourne

forced the company to brainstorm new,

innovative ways to assist their trusted

retailers with stock supply.

“Searay introduced seamless virtual

appointments, which proved to be very

efficient for busy retailers and helpful for

those who preferred to speak and ‘see’ us

rather than place an order via the website,”

said Ron.

It was as simple as a ‘click a link’ and let

Searay take over from there. Ironically,

meeting virtually was most beneficial for

retailers who preferred an offline rather than

online experience. The change-up has proven

so beneficial, that Searay is convinced virtual

appointments are here to stay!

Relying on strong relationships

The jewellery business has a symbiotic

structure, with designers, manufacturers,

suppliers and retailers all supporting

and relying on each other. These strong

relationships were essential during COVID.

Melinda said that the Georgini’s strong longterm

relationship with their manufacturers

really paid off during COVID. “We never

experienced shortages of stock and are very

well stocked for Christmas,” said Melinda.

“Even during lockdown, our efficient stock

monitoring meant that we always stayed

ahead.”

She says that communication is the key to

weathering tough times.

“Our sales managers and our retailers

have the kind of relationship where they

can keep up honest communication

and they have a real desire to work

together to achieve great outcomes.

Having great people in our team

certainly helped keep our sales moving.

And retailers are a resilient bunch of

people! They ride the ups and downs

pretty well.”

Cheryle said that COVID has taught

everyone that patience is required in

all aspects of business now!

“That includes allowing for longer

than normal delivery times from our

overseas suppliers. However, lockdowns

have made us more organised and we have

adjusted our strategy in getting our orders

in much quicker so as to allow for some

slightly longer delivery times,” Cheryle said.

Cheryle says that staying ahead

of schedule was an important

strategy to counteract any delays.

“We used lockdown to get our

orders in early and delivered to

us in plenty of time,” she said.“We

are now fully stocked with loads of

new lines, core basics and one-off

pieces.”

“We have very long-standing

relationships with our suppliers

so we used the lockdowns to

communicate and liaise with the

to develop new ranges, including

our beautiful Oro Bella Matte Gold

range, just in time for Christmas.”

Stones and Silver

December 2021 27


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By Cheryl D. Harty

BIRTH OF AN ICON

Khalsa 1699 Watches was launched mid 2020 and in just over a

year has carved out a niche for stylish timepieces that are unique in

bearing the revered Khanda insignia.

The brand had its genesis in 2019 when

Khalsa 1699 Watches founder and CEO,

Danny Singh was staying at the Savoy in

London. One morning at breakfast he invited

two guests, an Italian and an Englishman to

join his table. Their discussions that day would

inspire Mr Singh’s next business move.

“At the time I had been looking for a new

venture and as I shook hands and walked away

from the table, I had decided to design my

own range of watches. I then spent the most

frustrating afternoon of my life. I did not know

what logo to use and what I would call them,”

the Melbourne-based businessman recalled.

Still grappling with the conundrum back at

his hotel he tried to get some sleep later that

night.

“That night, the answer came to me in a

dream. While I was sleeping, I dreamt of

the flag flying above the Golden Temple. It

seemed to be telling me: ‘Why are you looking

for a symbol when you are born into the Sikh

heritage? You are born into this symbol.’”

The triangular flag flying above the Golden

Temple – spiritually the most significant

shrine in Sikhism - is known as the Nishan

Sahib which carries the Sikh symbol of

Khanda. Sikhism is the religion and philosophy

founded in the Punjab region of the Indian

subcontinent. Danny Singh is a Sikh and the

second generation of his family to be born

outside the subcontinent in Australia.

At 4am, he got out of bed, sat down and

began to draw the Khanda Sahib emblem he

had seen on the flag in his dream. “It was as

though in the chaos of life I had forgotten

my spiritual identity. The dream gave me a

pathway to a new reality,” he recalled.

Mr Singh looked to the 320th anniversary of

the founding of the revered Khalsa movement,

Khalsa 1699, to inspire his new watch brand.

Sikhs regard the Khanda as the symbol of the

Khalsa faith. Each watch in the Khalsa 1699

range carries the Khanda symbol, reflecting

an exotic martial heritage and embodying the

spirit of freedom.

Khalsa 1699 is the only brand in the world to

use the revered Khanda symbol as its logo.

The watches are designed in Australia and

manufactured in Switzerland and Hong Kong.

Materials, proportions, movements and

contrasting elements are purposely selected

for each watch style.

The Khalsa 1699 Watches range caters for

men and women. Models include Ocean Lion,

Heritage, Speedster, Kaur, Enigma and Divine.

The first watch to be released under the

Khalsa 1699 brand was a professional diver’s

watch dubbed Ocean Lion, which was

launched in July 2021. Designed to operate in

depths of up to 500 metres, the Swiss made

watch features luminous dial indicators to

ensure optimal visibility. Made with over 200g

of stainless steel, it has an open case back.

“When I knew I had to bring out a watch

with the revered Khan Sahib on it, I knew

it could not be a cheap one. The Ocean

Lion is a diver’s dream watch,” Mr Singh

said. One hundred pieces of the Ocean Lion

were initially released and sold. A second

generation of Ocean Lion watches featuring an

embossed Khanda on the buckle has also been

released onto the market and has moved well.

Today the Khalsa 1699 Ocean Lion collection

comprises three styles: Stealth Commander,

Abyss Black and Marine Blue.

“The Ocean Lion watch is a very masculine

piece and has got a real force. The lion is a

symbol of Khalsa and is a title that is given to

every Sikh man as his middle name, which is

Singh. The lion is very close and dear to all us

in our culture. Thus the name, Ocean Lion.

“We also have the highly coveted Singh watch.

The world’s first super luminous watch, it

30

jewellery world - December 2021


comes in a limited edition of 5000 pieces,” he

said.

The Khalsa 1699 Singh watch has a Khanda

Sahib stamped into the clasp and crown and

a deep etched lion’s head and Khanda crown

etched into the back of the case. Each one is

numbered with a lifetime warrantly.

In November, 2021, Khalsa 1699 introduced

the first Ocean Lion watch with a diamond,

sapphire and ruby bezel.

“We have come up with an original design

for the bezel which will be unique to us in

style in the way the diamonds are set and the

colour combination. I have had our jewellery

team working on it very hard. We will have

these bezels available from the website as

an add-on. If somebody wants to buy one of

these luxury watches, we will organise the

Ocean Lion and will then source the bezel

through our company jewellers. We will

create and manufacture the watch, put the

bezel on the watch face and then deliver the

completed watch,” Mr Singh explained.

The luxury aquatic Sea Tiger, a 200

metre dive watch, is scheduled to

be released onto the market in

December. With a AAA grade

finish, this marine sports

watch has a 43mm

diameter case, luminous

indicators and features

an embossed logo on the

second hand and back.

The dial has a raised logo

and the rotor through

the sapphire glass on the

case back also carries the

logo.

“This Swiss-made automatic

marine sport watch is a distinctive

statement piece in style and

manufacturing. It is a wonderful way

to arrive into the watch market and a great

way to make an entrance,” Mr Singh said.

He pointed out that the Ocean Lion, Sea Tiger

and Singh watches are rare and made only in

limited quantities. “When you combine the

heritage, the story behind each model and the

rarity of the watch, it becomes an extremely

valuable piece,” he said.

Mr Singh said he was surprised at how well

the brand had performed to date. “I came up

with the Khalsa 1699 Watches concept

at the end of 2019 and launched the

brand in 2020, during a pandemic. We

went full swing and worked hard.

In one year we sold over 15,000

watches. From November last

year, sales really took off.”

The collection has a wide

appeal. “Buyers see our

watches are beautiful

and they want them.

Many don’t care about

the historical origins of the

brand. The design and quality

appeal to everybody. They carry

a great universal charm that meets

everybody’s taste effortlessly,” Mr

Singh said.

Women’s styles in the Khalsa 1699 range

such as Heritage, Kaur and Divine have all

been well received. The elegant and feminine

Kaur series includes the stunning Crystal Kaur,

a rose gold plated alloy watch that features a

white dial encrusted with dozens of genuine

Swarovski crystals.

A Khanda features on the watch face while

another is stamped into the crown.

Online platform, House of Khalsa, lists all

styles and prices in the Khalsa 1699 Watches

collection accompanied by detailed images

and specifications. Presently the brand is

carried by 11 stockists globally. In 2022,

the brand will release a smart watch and

introduce its first 18 KT gold watches on to

the market. A pilot’s watch and a Swiss ladies

watch are also under development.

“Our aim is to bring excellence to the Khalsa

1699 Watches brand. We are a lot more

than just watches. We are creating watches

that are collectable and can be passed on

as heirlooms. They are inspired by history

with undeniable roots of deep cultural

magnificence and martial heritage. We feel

that we have been very blessed,” Mr Singh

said.

Those interested in becoming authorised

dealers of Khalsa 1699 Watches can contact

Mr Singh through the House of Khalsa

website. The House of Khalsa also has an

accessory offer with a parfum to be added

next year to its recently launched sunglasses

range.

www.houseofkhalsa.com

December 2021 31


JEWELLERY

APPRENTICES'

CAREERS SET TO

SPARKLE

For the first time in its 18 year history, two apprentice jewellers will share TAFE

Queensland's Jewellery Apprentice of the Year award after the pair took out the

top honour at a recent prestigious awards night.

The fourth-year apprentices' Brock Hodgson (25) and Paul

Armstrong (37), are completing their studies at TAFE

Queensland's South Bank campus, which sees them attend

intensive block training from world-class teachers.

"I have loved my block training through TAFE Queensland,"

Brock said. "My teacher is so helpful and knowledgeable when

demonstrating technical aspects of jewellery manufacturing."

"The on-campus training blocks were so important for learning

techniques that you don't learn at work. My classmates were also

jewellery apprentices, and being able to discuss what we were

learning was a great aspect of the training."

Brock's sentiments were echoed by co-winner Paul, a mature

apprentice who started working with jewellery after engraving items

and repairing watches with Mr Minit.

"We all come from different backgrounds, different areas of the

industry and have different career trajectories, so we share and learn

a lot when we're together," said Paul.

After returning to work from his block training, both Brock and Paul

noticed how enhanced their skills were, thanks to the hands-on

training in world-class facilities with access to modern equipment

found in any manufacturing and design studio around the world.

"During every training block, we fine-tuned our skills by learning

different methods and techniques. Our teachers were also supportive

and encouraging every time we began learning a new facet of

jewellery making," Paul said.

Held each year, the Apprentice Jeweller of the Year Awards celebrate

the talent and creativity of Certificate III in Jewellery Manufacturing

graduates through an awards program that forms their final

assessment.

Graduates have four weeks to design and manufacture three pieces

of jewellery that meet specific criteria and fit with a unique theme.

The awards acknowledge the quality, artistry, strength, durability and

wear-ability of students' designs and the overall quality of the finish.

This year's theme was

Reflections, which allowed

the apprentice jewellery

students' imaginations and

technical skills to run wild.

Paul, who has been

undertaking his

apprenticeships at Hogans

Family Jewellers, says that

using his creativity to design

unique bespoke pieces for

the event was an excellent

way to showcase the skillset

he perfected during his studies.

Paul Armstrong's winning entries

Brock Hodgson's winning pieces

"I made a pair of sunglasses with interchangeable lenses, gold inlays

and gems set in one arm with matching cufflinks and a signet ring

which both also had gold inlays and diamonds set in each piece,"

explained Paul.

Brock, an apprentice with Stephen Dibb Jewellery, handmade a

matching set of winning pieces that included a ring, pendant and

bracelet.

"After I finished and submitted my pieces, I was content because I

was so proud of my work. I wasn't stressed as I didn't expect to win.

All the different entries showcased each of our different strengths,

and I thought a few of the others were definite winners," continued

Brock.

On the other hand, Paul went through a roller-coaster of emotions

after submitting his pieces and waiting for the big night.

"Waiting for awards night was agony - the anticipation and

excitement were incomparable to anything I'd experienced before.

And when I heard my name announced as the winner, I was ecstatic!"

His delight with reflected by Brock, who described his win as

absolutely amazing. "I was shocked I won but also insanely proud of

my entry - it was genuinely one of the best days I've ever had," said

Brock.

32

jewellery world - December 2021


Both agree

that winning

vindicates the

effort each has

made to find

employers,

attend block

training and

put in the work

over the past

four years.

Paul Armstrong and Brock Hodgson

"Winning is an amazing feeling. To have our skills and knowledge

recognised in this is mind-blowing. Both of our families and friends are

all proud of us, and I know this is my life's calling," concluded Paul.

TAFE Queensland Director of Faculty Creative Arts and Digital Design,

Jackie French, said having two award winners was a total surprise – but

the judges could not separate the two.

"The judges and I were blown away by the quality of everyone's

jewellery, particularly considering how disruptive COVID has been on

everyone's studies," said Ms French.

"It is incredible to think that students have created the stunning pieces

on display - young people, who are only just starting in the industry."

"Everyone was amazed by the range of talent entering the industry

– it's inspiring, particularly when jewellery manufacturing, like all

manufacturing, has been impacted during COVID."

"As we continue to recover from the pandemic, and consumers return

and drive demand in the jewellery industry, TAFE Queensland must

provide its apprentices with the skills they need to be employable now

and well into the future," concluded Ms French.

Other award winners include:

• Rising Star Award – Declan Stewart

• Rising Star Award Runner Up –Stefanie Cleeton

• Best Overall Design Award – Paul Armstrong

• Best Technical Aspects Award –Brock Hodgson

• Best Design Folio Award - Paul Armstrong

• Queensland Jewellery Apprentice of the Year Award – Paul Armstrong

& Brock Hodgson

• Employer of the Queensland Jewellery Apprentice of the Year –

Stephen Dibb Jewellery

• Employer of the Queensland Jewellery Apprentice of the Year – Hogan

Family Jewellers

For more information about TAFE Queensland's courses or to apply and

change your career, visit tafeqld.edu.au or call 1300 308 233.


LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS

Craig Miller

CEO, JC Jewels

www.jcjewels.com.au

EMBRACING CHANGE

IN THE NEW NORMAL

I wrote an article a while back entitled Are you selling lab grown diamonds?

In it, I asked if you should be selling lab grown diamonds. Now I am saying if

you're not offering lab grown diamonds, why not?

Change is the only constant. I use

lab grown diamonds as an example

of just one monumental change in

our industry, but look around you: since

COVID-19 started, everything in our personal

lives has changed. In business, I completely

transformed my business model from an

age-old business model that had not changed

for decades.

The retail landscape definitely changed, so

as we return to work, what have you done

in preparation and adaptation to excite your

clients and lift the game in store?

My company, JC Jewels, has gone all in, beta

tested and placed a major focus on lab grown

diamonds and technology to help our clients,

the retailer, sell more diamonds. As a supplier,

this is imperative to keep our clients inline

with the new norm. This has given us the

largest footprint in Australia in our space. Let

me explain how we can help you, with no

dollar investment, but rather an investment in

change.

What made me engage in lab grown

diamonds and technology?

I have built up and closed a family business

in the past. At its peak, it was very successful

but it was failing to move with the times and

so it cost me and my family the business. This

proved to me the only constant is change.

Continual change should be part of your

company’s ethos. When I was first introduced

to lab grown diamonds, I did my research.

I took a leap of faith engaging the biggest

change in my working career, much to my

father’s disappointment being a second

generation diamantaire. Then I embraced

technology. Your client, the consumer, is

engaging these two things in a big way.

Consumers have shifted the manner in which

they engage, research, and transact. It would

be foolish not to acknowledge how important

technology is today, and yes, you need this in

store.

Shoppers are demanding faster engagement,

more detail, education and certainly delivered

with better levels of digital engagement than

ever and at store level – not just in your online

and social presence.

They expect more diversification and choice,

and you need the digital platforms to deliver

this well, in your buying, selling and, most

important, delivery in store. The internet has

spoiled consumers across all industries. They

have come to expect the same in store.

In the jewellery space, with engagement

rings in particular, the consumer wants to

buy from a trusted jeweller. They absorb

extensive online research but, thankfully,

most consumers still want to touch, feel, try

on and buy from their trusted jeweller. Their

expectation with the delivery

of sales staff is high,

anticipating a

certain level

of digital

34

jewellery world - December 2021


engagement and presentation in store, empowering them with

more choice, ranges and optionality. This in itself is proving to close

more sales.

The likes of Blue Nile and other online sellers have undoubtedly

empowered the consumer with the knowledge needed to push

the retailers to reduce margins, but on the upside a well-trained

sales person can identify these clients, take advantage of this as

the consumer is already educated, then close the sale faster. And

yes, perhaps on lower margin but if this is executed well your

conversion rate will increase, resulting in a higher conversion rate

with lower margins but more profitability overall.

How much have you changed your business in the past 12 months?

In my company, I employ a full-time in-house tech team. We have

a tech department — how crazy! Talk about change. Who would

have thought a diamond merchant would have an in-house tech

team? We are constantly developing and upgrading our technology

to help jewellers sell more diamonds, to empower and assist you,

the retailer. This gives you faster delivery and an exciting overall

experience. We teach retailers to select their own goods from over

100,000 certified stones in real time. This is far more advantageous

to retailers as they no longer have to rely on what the diamond

merchant wants to sell anymore. Those days are gone.

Our change is working. We realise retailers profitability is also

in their buying – an imperative step when you have to compete

with online sellers. This is fast becoming the new norm in most

industries. Our industry needs to ensure we keep up with consumer

expectations in store. For our clients, we developed a simple tech

package that will monumentally change your business, take you

to the source, and let you decide what to sell. Please create an

account with JC Jewels (www.jcjewels.com.au) and let us take your

business to the new norm and next level.


MelbourneWIN

Attend the Jewellery

Industry Fair, and win!

Guests at the Jewellery Industry Fair will

have the chance to win an incredible

selection of Prizes, including:

$2000

thanks to NCJV

National Council of Jewellery Valuers

AND

February 6 & 7

The Timber Yard

A set of Lab Grown

Diamond earrings with

a matching necklace

thanks to JC Jewels

Visit the Jewellery Industry Fair

in Melbourne this February, for

your chance to win!

Register your ticket for the fair

jewelleryindustryfair.com

Terms and Conditions are listed on

the Jewellery Industry Fair website.

jewelleryindustrynetwork.com


Jewellery Industry Network

Laura Moore,

Managing Director

LauraM@JewelleryIndustryNetwork.com

SEE YOU AT THE FAIR

Kicking off 2022 with a fabulous February fair sounds like the

perfect way to start the year for your business.

The end of the year is approaching and

the start of a fresh and exciting new

one is on the horizon, bringing with it a

luxurious jewellery event in Melbourne – the

Jewellery Industry Fair.

With dozens of suppliers all bringing new

designs, ranges and something to offer, the

Fair is the perfect spot for the jewellery

industry to reunite and restock ready for a

new year, going live on the 6th and 7th of

February.

Fair organiser, the Jewellery Industry Network,

is excited to see the event bring something

new to the industry with a dedicated event

which inspires and invigorates industry

members.

Held at the Timber Yard in Melbourne, the

event brings together high end luxury with the

rustic and artisanal side of the industry. The

venue holds character and charm, and really

speaks to the incredible craftsmanship of the

jewellery industry. The fusion of this venue

and luxurious fine jewellery will bring a unique

feeling and experience to the industry which

will inspire the year ahead.

Exhibitors at the Fair are some of the

industry's most dedicated suppliers, with

high end jewellery, diamonds, lab grown

diamonds, branded ranges, precious metals,

pearls and so much more! A list of exhibitors

is on the Jewellery Industry Fair website, and

still growing!

Upon entrance to the Fair, guests will be

greeted with a showbag of goodies and a

glass of bubbles to start the fair in style.

Walking down the lawn of the Timber Yard,

guests can then immerse themselves in the

story of how jewellery is made with the Fair

Mine to Market gallery, before entering the

hall of exhibitors.

While shopping at the Fair, guests can also

go into the draw to win a selection of prizes,

including $2000 from the National Council

of Jewellery Valuers, and a set of lab grown

diamond earrings and necklace thanks to JC

Jewels.

During the event, guests can choose to

experience a selection of other activities

which will encourage networking and be

educational and inspiring.

Bringing together industry associations, the

Jewellery Industry Fair is also excited to play

host to the entrants of the JAA Jewellery

Design Awards pieces. Award celebrations

then continue on Sunday 6 February at the

Crown Casino.

The Fair will be a true celebration of the

industry, with the team at the Jewellery

Industry Network committed to ensuring the

event is not only safe, but also great fun and

gives businesses the ability to trade and set

themselves up for 2022.

A warm welcome is extended to all jewellery

businesses in the trade for the February

event. Tickets can be booked online via the

Jewellery Industry Fair website.

www.jewelleryindustryfair.com

December 2021 37


KEEPING SKILLS ALIVE

Stone Set Cross

When I first started teaching apprentices, I noticed that there

were some skills gaps in their training, such as ajour cut work

(French for opening that lets in light). This is the traditional way

to finish the bottom of settings maximising the light onto the

stone. So, I promptly introduced this old-school technique to the

program.This is a great introduction to ajour cutting. Once it is

mastered, the eternity ring project will not seem so difficult.

1This project is made to fit 15 x

2.5mm stones and is made with

sterling silver 4.5mm x 4.5mm x

60mm stock gauge squarewire or

you can melt 12 grams and roll to 4.5mm

square. Reduce to 3.5mm square but

maintain the sharp edges. To do this,

carefully roll it through the flat sections

of the roll mill turning as you go. If you

tighten the rolls too much the profile

could distort.

2

Anneal and flatten it out to get it

perfectly straight. Square off one end

and set your dividers to 3.5mm. Mark

off seven spaces then cut and square

off the other end. Mark off 9 spaces on the

remaining square wire. Cut and square off

the ends. The remaining wire can be rolled

and used to make the bail.

3

The two pieces now need to

friction fit into each other by

making a box joint. Cut out half of

the centre square section of the

shorter piece. Use your square needle

file to finish off shaping the cutand test

fit using the remaining square wire. Now

cut out half of the fourth square along

on the longer piece.

4

File a little over halfway to ensure

the joint is perfectly flush and make

sure that there are no gaps around

the joint. It is bad practice to overuse

solder to fill them. Ideally,the two parts

should hold together and not fall apart

when they are connected.

5

Flux the inside of the box joint and

lock them firmlytogether. Give the

joint a firm tap with your mallet to

ensure it is really tight.

Hard solder the joint and pickle to remove

the oxides.

6

Re-establish the spacing with your

dividers and scribe lines across

the front. Check with a set square.

Cut the lines with a 4/0 or 5/0 saw blade

to the depth of around half the blade

thickness, then cut the lines down the

sides. Again, use a set square to confirm

that all your lines are perfectly square.

38

jewellery world - December 2021


7

Now mark out for the square holes

at the back of the cross.Set your

dividers to slightly under 1mm and

scribe around the outside of the cross. To

scribe the inner ladder marks, keep the

same setting on your dividers and scribe

double lines across using your dividers

and ruler. You should be able to see the

side cut marks and use them to locate the

correct spacings.

8

Now drill through each setting with

a 1mm pilot drill. Keep turning the

cross over to check that you are

drilling straight. Open the holes out with

a 1.2mm drill and make any necessary

corrections. Countersink the holes with

a ball bur that’s around 2.2mm. You can

also countersink the underside as this will

assist when you start to perform the ajour

cut work.

9

Insert a 4/0 or 5/0 saw blade into a

setting and begin the cutting work

by angling the blade forwards. Keep

the blade moving as you first cut into the

corners forming a star shape. Then scrape

the blade along the scribe line from corner

to corner. Cutting squares can be tricky and

may result in some accidental cuts past the

scribe line. Try to stay well within the scribe

lines for you first attempts. You can perfect

the work once you have some experience.

10

The aim of the game is to look

for improvement with each one.

Do not obsess about obtaining

perfection at first, and don’t be

too concerned if you mess up the first few

holes.

Before you work on the sides, cut cross lines

intothe top of each square setting. Now angle

your blade to 45° and cut down the sides from

the centre cuts. Saw until your blade reaches

the centre of the top and side of the setting.

11number of different burs. The

To create the round openings

in the settings you could use a

obvious one to use is a cone bur.

Drive the point of the bur in but make

sure you do not cut through the top of

the side setting. Switch to a round bur

to finish off. This will make the openings

perfectly round.

12

Once all the cutwork is

completed you can make a

simple bail and solder it to the

top.

The assessment of your saw cutting

skills should be done at this stage before

any stone setting is carried out. A selfassessment

sheet is in the curriculum.

The online course includes video

instructions for setting round stones into

square settings.

Peter Keep is a

master jeweller

and teacher. He

offers structured

online courses

that have helped

thousands of

students around

the world improve

their skills.

Jewellery Training Solutions offers a comprehensive online training service

including the popular Ten Stage Apprenticeship Course.

Check out the other courses and options at

www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au

December 2021 39


NEW PRODUCTS

Bianc | +61 413 872 810

The Lapis Lazuli Edit | Make a grand entrance with Bianc’s latest

additions to the Lumiere Collection. An exquisite range featuring

textured gold plated sterling silver and luxurious lapis lazuli, this

collection will turn heads this season.

Everything is ready for order available now. Bianc product prices range

between RRP $39-$399.

info@bianc.com.au - @bianc_jewellery - www.bianc.com.au

Stones and Silver | +61 3 9587 1215

Direct from Italy, our stunning new Oro Bella Collection has arrived.

Set in .925 sterling silver with matte gold plating this collection is

luxury at its finest.

Modern designs combined with timeless elegance it’s the perfect

addition to your collection.

www.stonesandsilver.com.au

Zahar | +61 413 872 810

Zahar brings you textured gold goodness from the Indiana Collection.

Featuring crushed gold bangles, bold chains and statement earrings,

there is a piece for any occasion.

Everything is available now and ready for order! Zahar product prices

range between RRP $39-$139.

info@zahar.com.au

@zahar.collection

www.zahar.com.au

Jewellery Centre | +61 7 3221 3838

Jewellery Centre’s new range of lockets includes:

Sterling silver round criss-cross pattern locket

9ct yellow gold border pattern oval locket

9ct yellow gold beaded and engraved border oval locket

www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com

40

jewellery world - December 2021


Ellendale Diamonds Australia

Desert Rose Jewellery | +61 8 6111 1961

An exquisite matching pendant & earring set features rare

certified Argyle pink diamonds.

18K white/rose gold pendant, featuring a 13.5mm Broome

South Sea pearl, set with round diamonds F SI 0.14 carats and

complimented with a round 0.09 carat 6P SI pink diamond from

the Argyle diamond mine.

18K white/rose gold hook earrings, set with 14mm Broome

South Sea Pearls and claw set with two 7P pink diamonds 0.09ct

each from the Argyle mine, accented with white F-G SI round

diamonds totalling 0.32ct.

www.ellendalediamonds.com.au

At Ellendale Diamonds, we have secured 1000

carats of origin guaranteed Argyle white diamond

melee. Perfect for your client's custom-made

jewellery orders.

Get in quick so you don't miss out!

Contact us for further details.

PASSION

COLOUR

EXPERIENCE

Suite 5, Level 1, 428 George Street SYDNEY NSW 2000

P +61 2 8065 8533 E info@sovereigngems.com

@sovereigngems


chain

services

coloured stones

PO Box 112

Toronto NSW 2283

P: 02 9380 4742 ∙ F: 02 8580 6168

E: sales@adelaimports.com

Adela Imports offer over 180

designs of sterling silver chain,

with up to 20 lengths available

in each from stock.

Also offering a range of

uniquely designed silver

jewellery.

Catalogue available.

www.adelaimports.com

services

Chris O’Neill

Piecemaker

2015 YJG Bench Challenge

Hand Engraving Champion.

Also specialising in quality

Handmakes, Repairs and

Antique restorations in the

Sydney CBD.

0405 689 834

AUSTRALIAN

JEWELLERY TOOLS

WHOLESALER

SPECIALISING IN QUALITY

JEWELLERY TOOLS & EQUIPMENT

WITH EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE

ADELAIDE (08) 7221 2202

MELBOURNE (03) 9038 8545

PERTH (08) 6363 5517

SYDNEY (02) 8004 1626

Glues

(07) 3876 7481

sales@labanda.com.au

FAX: (07) 3368 3100

www.labanda.com.au

MILN & CO. Pty Ltd

Ph: 02 4655 7707 M: 0412 702 834

E:stuart.miln@milnco.com.au

Lancier Watch Bands - Leather, metal, sports.

Watchglasses. Seals. Batteries. Quartz Movements.

Pins/tools. Jewellery findings. J C Hurst Bangles.

Fischer Barometers and Tide Clocks

ADVERTISE HERE

The classifieds section is an excellent place for suppliers and

manufacturers to advertise products and services in a longrunning,

low cost way.

All size ads are available and may include product

photos. Visit our website to download our media

pack for prices.

www.jewelleryworld.net.au

Merry Christmas

and

Happy Holidays

to all our readers,

advertisers and contributors.

Wishing you all the best for 2022.

Are you Jewellery

World's biggest joker?

Got a gem of a gag, a diamond of

a giggle, a real shiner to share?

Fed up with the lame efforts we

publish here? Send us something

funny – we dare you.

No, really, please do. See what

we've been reduced to?

Send your joke to

jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au

42

jewellery world - December 2021


FEBRUARY 6 & 7

Jewellery

Industry Fair

THE TIMBER YARD, MELBOURNE

EXHIBITORS

More exhibitors listed on our website

Register your ticket for the fair

jewelleryindustryfair.com

We warmly welcome you to attend

the Jewellery Industry Fair.

Build your ranges for 2022 whilst

networking with industry members.

jewelleryindustrynetwork.com

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