Jewellery World Magazine - December 2021

This issue looks at white diamonds and a new Australian watch brand.

This issue looks at white diamonds and a new Australian watch brand.


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DECEMBER <strong>2021</strong><br />




DEC-21<br />

Palloys_<strong>Jewellery</strong><strong>World</strong>_FP_Ad_220x290_Nov_FA.indd 1<br />

22/11/21 4:40 pm

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<strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />

ABN: 82 637 204 454<br />

ISSN: 2207-6751<br />

PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570<br />

P: 0431 844 903<br />

Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

managing director<br />

Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903<br />

jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

editor<br />

editor@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

contributing writers<br />

Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />

Stefan Juengling<br />

Cheryl D Harty<br />

art<br />

design@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

advertising sales<br />

sales@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />


6 News<br />

12 Palloy's Points<br />

14 Trade Well with Rami Baron<br />

16 JAA News<br />

34 Lab Grown Diamonds<br />

38 Keeping Skills Alive<br />

40 New Products<br />

52 Directory<br />


20 White diamonds ending the year on a high<br />

<strong>December</strong> sales and the festive season see<br />

white diamonds selling strongly here and overseas<br />

22 Mr Wolfe has left the building<br />

A long-time Sydney jeweller leaves the bench<br />

and regales us with some trade secrets<br />

24 Launching out of lockdown<br />

How some Aussie jewellery brands have used<br />

the COVID down-time to rise anew<br />

20<br />

24<br />

30<br />


This publication may not be reproduced<br />

in whole or part without the written<br />

permission of the Publisher.<br />

Articles express the opinions of the<br />

authors and are not necessarily those of the<br />

Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or<br />

service in this magazine does not indicate the<br />

Publisher’s endorsement.<br />

The Publisher excludes all liability for<br />

loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false<br />

or misleading statements that may appear<br />

in this publication.<br />

All information is copyright.<br />

30 Birth of an icon<br />

New Australian watch brand, Khalsa 1699, is<br />

barely two years but already making waves.<br />

32 Apprentices' careers set to sparkle<br />

Two winning students from QLD TAFE dazzle<br />

judges with their final pieces<br />


www.houseofkhalsa.com<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2021</strong><br />



Khalsa 1699 Watches<br />

www.houseofkhalsa.com<br />

4<br />

jewellery world - <strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />

All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />

• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, 2020 (Homebush)<br />

• International • Sydney AGHA <strong>Jewellery</strong> Gift Fair -September - February 21-24, 12-14, 2020 (Homebush)<br />

(Darling Harbour)<br />

• International <strong>Jewellery</strong> Fair -September 12-14, 2020 (Darling Harbour)<br />



News<br />

Argyle’s final blue diamonds snapped up by<br />

a single buyer<br />

Rio Tinto’s entire <strong>2021</strong> Once in a Blue Moon Tender<br />

collection of 41 lots of carefully curated Argyle blue and<br />

violet diamonds has been won by a single bidder, the<br />

Hong Kong fancy coloured diamond specialist, Kunming<br />

Diamonds. Kunming Diamonds’ history-making global bid<br />

for the 24.88 carats of final “beyond rare” blue jewels<br />

from the East Kimberley region of Western Australia is a<br />

significant moment in the coloured diamond industry.<br />

Tragic jewels auctioned<br />

Two iconic auction houses had the opportunity to sell historic royal jewellery with<br />

a tragic backstory early in November. Christie’s in Geneva sold a pair of diamond<br />

bracelets that once belonged to doomed French queen Marie Antoinette, and<br />

Sotheby’s sold a sapphire and diamond brooch with matching ear clips that had<br />

been smuggled out of Russia by the aunt of Tsar Nicholas II during the Russian<br />

Revolution.<br />

The Argyle mine sporadically produced small blue and<br />

violet diamonds in a beautiful array of shades and with<br />

the closure of Argyle it is extremely unlikely that there will<br />

ever be another collective offering of iconic gems in this<br />

colour spectrum from a single mine.<br />

Almost the entire world’s supply of rare pink, red, blue<br />

and violet diamonds come from Rio Tinto’s Argyle<br />

Diamond Mine which ceased production on 3 November,<br />

2020.<br />

Marie Antoinette’s bracelets each featured 112 diamonds, set in silver and gold.<br />

Before the queen was executed in 1793, she arranged for her jewellery, including<br />

the bracelets, to be sent to Brussels, Belgium, where they were kept safe for her<br />

only surviving child, Madame Royal Marie Therese Charlotte. Having stayed in the<br />

possession of one family for over 200 years, the bracelets sold for US$11.1 million,<br />

significantly over the estimated selling price of $9.3 million.<br />

The Russian brooch sold by Sotheby’s featured a 26.80 carat oval sapphire from<br />

Sri Lanka and the ear clips had step-cut sapphires weighing 6.69 and 9.36 carats<br />

respectively. These jewels belonged to Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna the Elder,<br />

whose husband Grand Duke Vladimir of Russia was the uncle of Tsar Nicholas II.<br />

Maria Pavlovna had a passion for fine jewellery<br />

and during the Russian Revolution, she asked a<br />

British art dealer to smuggle 244 items of her<br />

jewellery to London.<br />

Besides the brooch and earrings, the collection<br />

also included the Vladimir Tiara, which<br />

now belongs to Queen Elizabeth II whose<br />

grandfather George V was a cousin of Nicholas<br />

II. Pavlovna managed to flee Russia in 1919,<br />

the last of the Romanovs to escape, and she<br />

died in Paris a year later.<br />

Sleek and unique engagement ring<br />

Kristen Stewart has announced her engagement after a<br />

long-awaited proposal from girlfriend Dylan Meyer.<br />

Stewart’s apparent<br />

engagement ring is a sleek<br />

brushed platinum band<br />

in an angular design with<br />

no stones. Jenny Luker,<br />

president of platinum<br />

Guild International USA<br />

estimates that the ring cost<br />

a modest US$2,500 and<br />

will maintain its value over time.<br />

Stewart hasn’t stated the ring is an engagement ring,<br />

but she’s been spotted wearing it on the right finger<br />

since the announcement.<br />

6<br />

jewellery world - <strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Specialising in Italian-made<br />

Tennis Mounts and Gold Chains

News<br />

The importance of a good workout to<br />

a good getaway<br />

Not your mother’s collab<br />

Tiffany & Co have collaborated with streetwear brand Supreme to create a new “Return to<br />

Tiffany” sterling silver collection inspired by Tiffany’s iconic pieces from the 1960s.<br />

The collection includes Tiffany’s classic heart tag pendant which says “Please return to<br />

Supreme New York 925” rather than the classic caption “Please return to Tiffany & Co.”<br />

and pearl necklace with the classic oval tag, along with a star bracelet, heart tag stud<br />

earrings and heart knife key ring, oval tag key ring.<br />

For customers on a lower budget, there is a Tiffany Blue t-shirt featuring the Supreme logo.<br />

Supreme is an American clothing and skateboarding lifestyle brand targeted at hip hop<br />

cultures and youth culture in general.<br />

Fans of Tiffany & Co are said to be disappointed at what they see as a mismatched<br />

partnership.<br />

Rio Tinto becomes sole owner of Diavik Diamond Mine<br />

Rio Tinto has become the sole owner of Diavik Diamond Mine in the Northwest Territories<br />

of Canada, continuing its leading role in the Canadian diamond industry.<br />

A transaction has been completed for Rio Tinto’s acquisition of the 40 per cent share held<br />

by Dominion Diamond Mines. With production at Diavik expected to end in 2025, its highend,<br />

predominantly white gem quality<br />

diamonds with Canadian provenance<br />

continue to be in strong demand.<br />

Located approximately 300 km northeast<br />

of Yellowknife, the mine employs<br />

over 1,100 employees, of which 17<br />

per cent are Northern Indigenous<br />

people. In 2020, it produced 6.2<br />

million carats of rough diamonds.<br />

A 35-year old man has been charged for<br />

attempting to steal a $140,000 necklace from a<br />

jewellery store in an audacious short-lived theft.<br />

The man entered the jewellery store in East<br />

Maitland, NSW, and asked an attendant to<br />

show him the 18-carat gold necklace covered in<br />

diamonds. Yet as the attendant was placing the<br />

necklace on the display tray, he snatched it from<br />

her hands and bolted out of the store through the<br />

shopping centre.<br />

His getaway did not go smoothly. The rather<br />

portly thief legged it in flip-flops and dropped the<br />

magnificent necklace on his flight to the carpark,<br />

where the police apprehended him and place him<br />

under arrest.<br />

The necklace was retrieved by police and returned<br />

safely to the store.<br />

<strong>World</strong>’s oldest jewellery<br />

Between 2014 and 2018, a team of archaeologists<br />

discovered 33 shell beads in a cave in Western<br />

Morocco. They’ve since been dated and clock in at<br />

150,000 years old. This makes them the oldest piece<br />

of jewellery yet discovered.<br />

The beads show holes and marks<br />

of wear and tear that indicate<br />

they were hung on strings or from<br />

clothing.<br />

Stephen Kuhn, professor of<br />

anthropology at the University of<br />

Arizona said that the beads were<br />

“probably part of the way people<br />

expressed their identity. They’re<br />

clearly symbolic objects that were<br />

deployed in a way that other people<br />

could see them.”<br />

He mused further: “It’s one thing to know that<br />

people were capable of making them, but then the<br />

question becomes, ‘OK, what stimulated them to do<br />

it?’”<br />

8<br />

jewellery world - <strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

We know<br />

Brilliance<br />







Get to know us too

News<br />

CIBJO Special Reports now online<br />

The CIBJO Special Report on coloured stones has been released and looks at issues<br />

related to ethical sourcing, and how the principles of responsible supply chain<br />

management can be implemented without disenfranchising artisanal and small-scale<br />

miners, and small and medium-sized enterprises.<br />

“With the overwhelming majority of rough coloured stones produced by artisanal<br />

small-scale mining, which in turn channels its supply through a complex trading<br />

network that has developed organically over literally hundreds of years, the coloured<br />

stone industry is the most fragile structurally in all of the jewellery sectors,” says the<br />

report. “But literally millions of people rely on the income it generates, many of them<br />

living in some of the least developed and most poverty-stricken areas of the world.”<br />

of the artisanal mining sector means that we must be<br />

nuanced in implementing ethical rules.”<br />

The November CIBJO virtual congress also saw the<br />

release of Special Reports on the pearl sector and white<br />

diamonds. All reports can be viewed at the CIBJO website.<br />

“If we try to impose our ethical value system without integrating the opinion and<br />

perspective of the local populations, we are likely to be regarded as imposing a new<br />

form of colonialism. This would be counterproductive,” the CIBJO Coloured Stone<br />

Commission notes. “Nobody should discount making the utmost effort to have the<br />

sourcing of our rough supply be as ethical as possible, but the complex realities<br />

Time to buy Australian-made<br />

Ph: (03) 9650 5955 Fax: (03) 6950 5977<br />

Email: sales@millenniumchain.com.au<br />

Web: www.millenniumchain.com.au<br />

6th Floor, 313 Lt. Collins St.<br />

Melbourne 3000 Victoria<br />

Millennium Chain<br />

Finished Top 5 in the category of<br />

Best Selling Gold <strong>Jewellery</strong> Suppliers in<br />

Australia and NZ, as voted by retailers.<br />


The OCEAN LION Collection<br />

500m helium escape valve, Swiss made automatic divers watch.<br />



Chris Botha,<br />

Operations Manager, <strong>Jewellery</strong> Division<br />

Palloys<br />



Palloys is unique in Australia, but that’s not because our size and<br />

scale of what we can offer the jewellery sector.<br />

Our unique position is that we<br />

understand what matters most to your<br />

customers, and Palloys is passionate<br />

about partnering with you to help meet their<br />

expectations.<br />

Palloys – the jewellery division of the Pallion<br />

Group – is part of Australia’s largest precious<br />

metal services group and a genuine Australian<br />

manufacturing success story. Unlike any<br />

other precious metals refiner or jewellery<br />

manufacturer in Australia, we can make a<br />

commitment no one else can.<br />

Our sister company, ABC Refinery is Palloys<br />

exclusive precious metals refine. With ABC<br />

Refinery in the family, we can boast about<br />

having the industry’s most transparent supply<br />

chain and the largest zero-emission refining<br />

capacity in the world.<br />

What does this mean for you and the final<br />

consumer? Palloys is Australia’s only jewellery<br />

manufacturer that can trace its precious metal<br />

supply directly to its primary source. To boot,<br />

Palloys can make a promise, that all the gold<br />

and silver in our ReadyMade collection is 100%<br />

Australian gold and silver.<br />

Total control over the entire supply chain is<br />

a rare commodity in this market, and this is<br />

something Palloys has.We want to help you<br />

to provide your customers with Australian<br />

sourced and produced gold.<br />

To prove where<br />

our gold and<br />

silver originates,<br />

we developed<br />

our Au and<br />

Ag hallmark,<br />

confirming<br />

to the customer that this ReadyMade is<br />

comprised of ethically sourced and produced<br />

Australian precious metals. Introducing these<br />

hallmarks to the Australian customer is about<br />

our commitment to Considerate® Precious<br />

Metals.<br />

To build a trusted brand, and to allow you as<br />

a jeweller to demonstrate a commitment of<br />

transparency around traceability of gold and<br />

silver. We understand consumers are asking<br />

where these precious metals came from, and<br />

Palloys Au and Ag hallmarks will give your<br />

customers that clarity.<br />

Palloys chooses to be a market leader every<br />

day. We look to move forward. We have<br />

multiple companies that we use to recycle<br />

products we can’t internally reuse. We<br />

don’t toss things into landfill. Yes, this is an<br />

expensive process, but our clients expect us<br />

to be industry leaders in this regard. Together<br />

with our clients and partners, we understand<br />

it’s better to invest in sustainable practices<br />

now.<br />

Regulations are lagging what consumers<br />

demand. Therefore, it’s up to businesses to<br />

lead the way and let the regulations catch<br />

up to us. Consumers want action. Lip service<br />

is no longer excusable at the retail end. The<br />

end users are aware of the environmental<br />

impacts that come from consumption, and<br />

they want to know that their purchases aren’t<br />

contributing to unethical practices.<br />

My advice to jewellery companies looking to<br />

become sustainability leaders? Investigate your<br />

supplier. Ask them hard questions about where<br />

and how their precious metals are sourced.<br />

What are their commitments to better their<br />

environmental practices? More importantly,<br />

is this information freely available on their<br />

website?<br />

Partnering with Palloys is about helping you<br />

assure your customers that we are committed<br />

to offering Considerate® Precious Metals.<br />

12<br />

jewellery world - <strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

New range of fine gemstones in stock and online now<br />

www.oagems.com<br />

Images: Burmese Ruby 6.1x6.1mm Cushion 1.11cts / Blue Ceylon Sapphire 8.9x7.5mm Emerald Cut 3.65cts / Teal Madagascan Sapphire 9.9x7.8mm Oval 3.56cts



Creating a great customer experience doesn’t have to mean<br />

hosting high-rollers on a private yacht.<br />

I<br />

recently read an article about Bulgari going<br />

into the hotel business. Apparently, if you<br />

want to stay in their incredible apartment<br />

in Paris, you must be a client who has spent 1<br />

million Euro with them. Graff has an estate in<br />

the Hawequa Nature Reserve in South Africa,<br />

but this one is open to the public at $2,000<br />

per night. Cheap, huh?<br />

Closer to home, there is the VIP Paspaley<br />

Pearl Farm Tour, which is well known for<br />

taking special customers to their pearl farms<br />

in the NorthernTerritories for a few days and<br />

giving them an incredible experience of the<br />

bush and the pearl farms. It allows them to<br />

build an amazing rapport, ensuring that these<br />

customers will be with them for life.<br />

Some jewellers hire out beautiful yachts to<br />

do Xmas parties and some hold them in swish<br />

restaurants. Let’s be realistic.You need to be<br />

prepared to drop a minimum of $50,000 and<br />

anywhere up to $100,000 plus to really blow<br />

away people who would frequently attend<br />

lavish events.<br />

Or do you?<br />

Let’s ask ourselves why hold an event? Simple.<br />

Your supposedly loyal customers are being<br />

strategically targeted by your competition,<br />

the big brands, for their luxury spend. It’s<br />

not the jeweller down the road who is your<br />

real competition.It’s the online and big brand<br />

stores whose super marketing machines will<br />

pinpoint when your customer has a special<br />

event in their life and drop in that Tiffany or<br />

Cartier ad into their Facebook or Instagram at<br />

that perfect time. That just-after-dinner ping.<br />

They even get the price point just right.<br />

You know it’s true. So, what do you intend to<br />

do about it?<br />

Your relationship, of course. You know these<br />

people and they know you. A fancy dinner<br />

may be the go, but what about making it more<br />

authentic? What about throwing a picnic<br />

or BBQ at a park or beach nearby? I am not<br />

telling you anything new.You need to build<br />

your relationship with your clients beyond<br />

the store or showroom. Meeting them in a<br />

social environment builds a whole different<br />

dynamic. It is these types of interactions<br />

which keep you front of mind for months,<br />

or even years, especially if they had a good<br />

time. You don’t need to sell to them here, just<br />

talk. Introduce people to each other, build<br />

your own community on a local level, which<br />

is something that the big brands can’t do,<br />

something that you bring to the party that<br />

they rarely can. You, the owner and maybe<br />

family members, are all building on who the<br />

people in this business really are.<br />

You could do this very economically.You<br />

could make it fun with games and prizes all<br />

themed around jewellery. I would analyse<br />

the demographics of my customers. Are they<br />

mainly engagement ring couples or older<br />

and more retirees? Do I cater to a fast crowd<br />

who travel a lot or tradies? Spend the time to<br />

think of a concept that the majority will feel<br />

comfortable with, not just what you like.<br />

14<br />

jewellery world - <strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Rami Baron<br />

President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia<br />

rami@ddca.org.au<br />

IP107-9YK<br />

You could bring buskers to provide live music, maybe an early dinner<br />

for young families (you’re saving a tired parent from having to cook<br />

that night, always appreciated). Make sure you have photographers<br />

for heaps of social media content and it’s super important to make it<br />

easy for your customers to send a google review afterwards about how<br />

much fun they had.<br />

IP3556N-9YG<br />

The majority of people who read this will think ‘wow, such a good<br />

idea’ — and do nothing. Why? Because it’s an effort. It takes time and<br />

planning and, truth be told, money is probably the easiest part.<br />

Think about hiring a party planner. Find one person at work who<br />

would love to head up the project and have some group brainstorming<br />

sessions to come up with fun gift ideas.<br />

IP82-G014-9Y<br />

Nothing worthwhile is easy. You know the famous saying: if it was easy<br />

everyone would do it.<br />

I would create a love heart card and envelope where partners could<br />

write their name and fill in their jewellery wish list, and they could<br />

throw it into a sealed box. Now you have some great info to contact<br />

their partners and plan the next purchase.<br />

IKE03-9YG<br />

I have attended some jeweller’s cocktail parties in their showrooms<br />

and have seen them provide mini lectures to a select group.There are<br />

so many ways for you to connect. Maybe you do a joint party with two<br />

other businesses in the area that complement and don’t compete with<br />

each other, thereby reducing the costs and also giving you a chance to<br />

meet new potential customers.<br />

Why don’t you ask a diamond dealer to loan you a 10ct diamond ring<br />

and have your customers come try it on and do selfies?<br />

IP82-G014-9YB<br />

Regale your customers, entice, and excite them through experiences.<br />

Having a meal with them and not selling is the most powerful<br />

relationship builder you can create.They will talk about it to everyone.<br />

It could be the best money you spend, and open up a whole new<br />

dimension to your business.<br />

Trade well,,, Rami Baron.<br />

LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY<br />

Tel: (02) 9266 0636 | enquiries@ikecho.com.au<br />




Karen Denaro<br />

My immediate response when Jo Tory advised<br />

she would be stepping down from her JAA<br />

Presidency, nominating me as President was,<br />

“You leave very big shoes to fill, Jo!”<br />

Jo has been a powerhouse in leading the<br />

Jewellers Association of Australia. The Board<br />

and I graciously thank her for service and her<br />

continued passion for the Australian jewellery<br />

industry.<br />

Jo’s decision to step down from her role, prior<br />

to the end of term, comes due to increasing<br />

personal and business commitments. Jo<br />

will continue as a JAA director, having been<br />

elected to the Board in 2017.<br />

Jo says, “It is with regret I have needed to<br />

step down at this time however, due to a<br />

combination of personal and business matters<br />

arising at the same time, I have needed to<br />

divert my focus. I am confident in Karen’s<br />

ability to lead the (JAA) Board and I will be<br />

there in support as I continue my term as a<br />

director.”<br />

With a passion and dedication that has<br />

spanned over 30-plus years, and experience<br />

across all sectors of the jewellery industry, the<br />

Australian jewellery industry has been my life<br />

from the time I was 16 years old. I joined the<br />

JAA Board in early <strong>2021</strong> as owner/managing<br />

director of Brilliamo Designer <strong>Jewellery</strong> and<br />

bespoke jewellery designer of Denaro Designs<br />

- my experience also extends to media and<br />

business consulting.<br />

I am incredibly honoured to have been elected<br />

President of the JAA by my fellow Board<br />

directors. I am committed to serve the benefit<br />

of our JAA members and to foster unity across<br />

all sectors of the wider jewellery industry,<br />

both in Australia and abroad. I welcome the<br />

opportunity to discuss any industry matters or<br />

concerns with all jewellery trade contributors,<br />

associations and affiliates.<br />

Upon my appointment, I had the privilege<br />

of being invited to connect with jewellery<br />

industry leaders, gem, diamond and<br />

jewellery experts and international peers,<br />

willingly sharing their expertise, wealth of<br />

knowledge and experience, over two weeks<br />

of commission meetings with The <strong>World</strong><br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Confederation (CIBJO).<br />

The JAA supports our industry to flourish<br />

through progression, sustainability, and ethics,<br />

whilst sharing collective experience and<br />

imparting valuable knowledge right through<br />

the entire jewellery industry supply chain, to<br />

our valued consumers.<br />

In mid-November, Megan and I hosted this<br />

year’s JAA Australasian <strong>Jewellery</strong> Awards<br />

judges – three highly skilled, diverse, and<br />

award-winning Australian jewellers, united<br />

at Cerrone Jewellers’ opulent head office to<br />

critique this year’s JAA Australasian <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Awards entrants’ pieces. We invite you to vote<br />

for your favourite entry in the People’s Choice<br />

Award. Voting opens in early <strong>December</strong> at<br />

jaa.com.au/vote.<br />

I hope to see you all in Melbourne, on Sunday,<br />

6 February 2022 to celebrate our 90th<br />

anniversary and to unveil the JAA Australasian<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Awards 2022 Jeweller of the Year!<br />

16<br />

jewellery world - <strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

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By Stefan Juengling<br />



The latest results from De Beers Group and Alrosa both show consumer demand for<br />

diamond jewellery will remain high and fuel upstream sales of rough. Plus, with <strong>December</strong><br />

and the lead up to Christmas typically being one of the busiest times of year for jewellers<br />

and wholesalers, sales for engagement rings, bands and diamond staples are expected to<br />

do well. With input from two major players in the Australian diamond industry, we sought<br />

to discover how well this year has been and how it will end for white diamonds<br />

Sales soaring in all stone types<br />

As detailed in a recent article from National<br />

Jeweler, the consulting and data aggregating<br />

company The Edge Retail Academy reported<br />

that sales of diamond products are up 40 per<br />

cent over the past 12 months. This success is<br />

concurred by our contributors with director<br />

Nirav Shah from Affection Diamonds reporting<br />

that sales are even higher than last year, and<br />

still continuing to grow.<br />

As for the types of diamonds that are selling<br />

well, he said they are selling round and fancy<br />

shapes like oval, pear, marquise and others in<br />

fair amounts equally.<br />

Affection Diamonds<br />

“We have<br />

experienced<br />

increased demand<br />

for fancy cuts from<br />

last year,” he said.<br />

Shweta Khan is<br />

Affection Diamonds<br />

owner of both<br />

Adelaide-based diamond wholesaler Akshmi<br />

Diamonds, and Brisbane-based retail diamond<br />

jeweller Starfire Diamonds, and she said that<br />

sales for diamonds and diamond jewellery<br />

have been strong due to the shortage of wellpriced,<br />

quality diamonds in the world market.<br />

However she said round brilliant cut diamonds<br />

are always in demand.<br />

“We see other cuts go up and<br />

down in demand but rounds<br />

have always been our staple as<br />

there is always a market for it,”<br />

she said.<br />

She said that at one stage oval<br />

cut diamonds were popular<br />

and they couldn’t get enough<br />

of them, which pushed up the<br />

price.<br />

“Princess and cushion cuts are<br />

steady.”<br />

How are the stone stocks?<br />

With business doing so well, it’s obviously<br />

important to keep enough stock on hand to<br />

meet demand. Shweta said that stock levels<br />

at Akshmi Diamonds change and they stock<br />

a range of cuts, primarily round brilliant cut<br />

diamonds followed by ovals and other fancy<br />

cuts.<br />

“The stock sizes range from the small sizes all<br />

the way up to 2 to 3 carat,” she said.<br />

“We are strong in E – F colour SI.”<br />

Affection Diamonds<br />

20<br />

jewellery world - <strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Nirav said<br />

that Affection<br />

Diamonds have<br />

an amazing<br />

range which<br />

covers white<br />

diamonds,<br />

colour diamonds, and all manner of unique<br />

hard-to-find diamonds.<br />

Affection Diamonds<br />

“We are strong in from the smallest diamond<br />

up-to substantial large diamonds in white,<br />

colours and all fancy diamonds,” he said.<br />

Lab created diamonds’ place<br />

When probed on the impact lab created<br />

diamonds have had on the natural diamond<br />

market, Nirav said that lab created diamonds<br />

are a viable alternative option for consumers<br />

who want a larger size<br />

diamond, but without<br />

the budget to afford<br />

a natural diamond of<br />

equal size.<br />

Starfire Diamonds<br />

“Also termed ‘Ethical<br />

Diamonds’ they seem<br />

to resonate with the<br />

younger generation<br />

that see it as being a<br />

conflict-free option,”<br />

he said.<br />

Starfire Diamonds<br />

Shweta believes natural and lab grown<br />

diamonds have their own share of the<br />

clientele and function cooperatively rather<br />

than competitively alongside each other.<br />

“For us, natural diamond sales have not been<br />

affected by lab grown diamonds,” she said.<br />

“Both are having good sales simultaneously.<br />

A shift in taste: quality over price<br />

Asked about how<br />

consumer taste<br />

in diamonds have<br />

shifted over the<br />

past five years,<br />

Shweta said there<br />

has been a move<br />

towards smaller,<br />

better quality diamonds rather than bigger,<br />

lower quality.<br />

Affection Diamonds<br />

“With all the information out in the market,<br />

people are appreciating quality over price,”<br />

she said.<br />

Nirav said he’s noticed consumers moving<br />

toward a greater variety in diamond shapes,<br />

colours and sizes.<br />

Preparing for the Christmas<br />

diamond boom<br />

Starfire Diamonds<br />

As mentioned earlier, Christmas is typically<br />

one of the busiest times of year for jewellers<br />

and wholesalers, and our contributors have<br />

come prepared, and expecting big things.<br />

Nirav said that solitaire diamond rings as well<br />

as diamond studs and bracelets will do well.<br />

Shweta is cautiously optimistic about the<br />

festive season, concurring that it too is the<br />

busiest time for Akshmi Diamonds and Starfire<br />

Diamonds, but that that may all change with<br />

the state borders reopening. She also opined<br />

that they will be a demand for gemstones as<br />

well as diamonds.<br />

“In recent times there has been more and<br />

more demand for bright coloured gemstones,<br />

this may be because as a population we need<br />

some brightness in our lives?” she said.<br />

She also said that both tennis bracelets and<br />

stacker rings have been in demand, and she<br />

expected that to continue for the rest of the<br />

year.<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 21

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Well-respected Sydney jeweller Grahame Wolfe is retiring. The Trust Building – a hundred-year<br />

old Sydney landmark where jewellers have ruled the various floors since the 1930s – won’t be the<br />

same without him. We spoke to Mr Wolfe about his 66 years in the jewellery industry.<br />

Mr Wolfe, also known as Mr Fix It and<br />

the ‘preferred repairer’ of high-end<br />

brands like Tiffany, Cartier and<br />

George Jenson, has been in the industry since<br />

1955. He is a highly successful jeweller who<br />

has made his wealth by doing tough repair<br />

jobs.<br />

Although very humble and down to earth, Mr<br />

Wolfe does enjoy the finer things in life. He<br />

loved to travel around the world first class with<br />

his wife and always made sure they had a trip<br />

booked to London to visit their daughter and<br />

fellow jewellers in Hatton Garden.<br />

Here’s what he had to say…<br />

What made you want to become a<br />

jeweller?<br />

I always fiddled around with things! I left<br />

school and worked in a deli for three weeks<br />

and it taught me one thing — never get<br />

involved with food, it’s hard work! My mother<br />

found a job in the paper and she said<br />

“Grahame, you should apply for this. You like<br />

playing around with things.” So I did and I<br />

got the job. It’s funny, but with jewellery you<br />

either like it or you don’t. I loved it.<br />

What is the secret to your long<br />

successful career?<br />

I learnt to make very good jewellery but at the<br />

same time I learnt to repair it. I worked in a<br />

little shop down Castlereagh street in the CBD<br />

called R J Marshall. He was a good jeweller and<br />

I learnt handmade work and repairs from him.<br />

That’s when I started repairing jewellery and<br />

have done it ever since. I’m more interested in<br />

repairing things than making things.<br />

What things to you find yourself<br />

repairing most often?<br />

Generally rings. I remember there was this<br />

one ring years ago that I had to repair. It was a<br />

coronet and it was so full of gunk that when I<br />

started to heat it with the flame it burnt like a<br />

candle from all the rubbish and oil inside. Get<br />

your rings and jewellery checked at least once<br />

a year and look after them!<br />

What do you love about the<br />

industry?<br />

I suppose repairs are interesting to me<br />

because no one job is the same. When I get<br />

sick of one job I can put it down and just pick<br />

up another one.<br />

What are some of the most<br />

interesting changes you’ve<br />

witnessed in the industry?<br />

It’s gone from a lot of handmade work to CAD<br />

castings. But from as far as repairs go, it still<br />

has to be someone like me. Also laser welding<br />

is another thing that’s happened, which I also<br />

use.<br />

What’s the craziest job request<br />

you’ve had?<br />

You get asked to fix all sorts of things. You can<br />

get asked to fix a bit of porcelain and glue it<br />

together. I’ve had brooches that have flown off<br />

and have been run over by a car. When they<br />

get to me you can see it’s been run over by a<br />

car because it’s not only flat it’s got the road<br />

imprinted in them.<br />

The other ones have been George Jensen<br />

silver spoons and forks that have gone<br />

through a incinerator and have been mangled<br />

up. So, I have special dollies for spoons in<br />

various sizes so I can hammer them all up and<br />

get them back in shape. They are probably<br />

one of the oddest things I get.<br />

What’s your favourite tool?<br />

A file and the blow pipe.<br />

The blow pipe because I can control the flame<br />

and use two hands. No one seems to have one<br />

like mine anymore but I’ve had it forever. You<br />

get quite good at it, I can get down to a really<br />

fine point and solder.<br />

What qualities do you look for in<br />

the perfect repair?<br />

A happy customer.<br />

What’s the best advice you could<br />

give to an upcoming jeweller?<br />

Learn to do repair work. I’ve asked a lot of<br />

guys over the years to send their apprentices<br />

up to me to have a talk but they never<br />

do — it doesn’t interest them. I remember<br />

when I started technical college, the guy I<br />

worked with said “When you go to tech, the<br />

kids there, they’ll ask you what you do, and<br />

when you tell them repairs they’ll sneer at<br />

you. Remember one thing: you make a lot of<br />

money doing repairs.” He was right. You do.<br />

We’d like to thank Mr Wolfe for sharing his<br />

passion and knowledge for jewellery and<br />

repairs, and also for continuing to inspire the<br />

next generation of jewellers.<br />

Mr Wolfe’s door has always been open to<br />

everyone in the Trust Building in Sydney. His<br />

office is like a museum of jewellery curiosities<br />

collected over many years. His warm smile will<br />

be missed by many but there’s no doubt he’ll<br />

be popping back to the Trust Building to share<br />

his wisdom.<br />

24<br />

jewellery world - <strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />



As businesses reopen after the forced retreat of lockdown in time for<br />

Christmas, many jewellery businesses are emerging stronger than<br />

ever, having used the time to reassess and streamline<br />

their business practices.<br />

Lockdown has been a productive time<br />

for many jewellery businesses, and now<br />

they are emerging with stronger more<br />

streamlined practices, ready to launch into<br />

Christmas both in-store and online. The<br />

relatively quiet period of lockdown was an<br />

opportunity to reassess their practices, plan<br />

future collections and refine new selling<br />

platforms.<br />

Focusing on new strategies<br />

Lockdown gave jewellery businesses the<br />

opportunity to streamline and expand, while<br />

exploring new marketplaces.<br />

Melinda Carey, Creative Director of Georgini<br />

says that lockdown was an opportunity to<br />

achieve “dive deep into the statistical analysis<br />

of our products and sales.”<br />

“The balance between creative and control<br />

is a tricky one to achieve and<br />

lockdown gave us the<br />

opportunity to get this<br />

right,” said Melinda.<br />

“We worked hard<br />

on creating product<br />

balance for each<br />

collection to ensure<br />

efficient stock carry<br />

within a collection – for<br />

example, the right balance<br />

between rings, earrings and pendants,<br />

without overstocking our retailers.”<br />

Cheryle Roberts of Stones & Silver says the<br />

company previously relied heavily on trade<br />

fairs, and needed to find some new platforms<br />

due to COVID restrictions and lockdown.<br />

“The absence of trade fairs has definitely<br />

forced us to change the way we do business,<br />

and this has proved beneficial,” said Cheryle.<br />

“We needed to come up with a strategy to get<br />

our product out to our customers, and source<br />

new customers. We have increased our sales<br />

rep team across Australia and New Zealand,<br />

and are now spending more quality time face<br />

to face with our customers.”<br />

Creating new approaches<br />

As COVID has limited in-store browsing for<br />

customers, jewellery brands need to find<br />

new innovative ways to promote<br />

their collections.<br />

Stones and Silver<br />

Melinda from Georgini<br />

says that lockdown<br />

was an opportunity to<br />

upgrade their digital<br />

assets for the benefit of<br />

their customers.<br />

“With every collection<br />

since mid-2020 we have<br />

Stones and Silver<br />

provided a fashion shoot, on-model imagery<br />

and high-res product images as well as style<br />

guides and looks books,” said Melinda.“This<br />

has really helped our customers with their<br />

online sales, as consumers want to see how<br />

the product looks on, how to style it and the<br />

story about it. This is a huge investment in<br />

not only resources but time and creativity<br />

for our team. But it has been exceptionally<br />

beneficial in not only the branding growth of<br />

Georgini but increasing the digital sales for our<br />

customers.”<br />

Georgini also implemented a new approach of<br />

sending samples to customers, to provide the<br />

tactile connection with the new collections.<br />

“One of the challenges we faced was the<br />

tactility of the product to be able to touch<br />

and feel,” said Melinda. “We couriered<br />

samples to customers and we even put on<br />

new staff members in New Zealand so when<br />

the windows were open we could see our<br />

customers as quickly as possible.”<br />

26<br />

jewellery world - <strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Cheryle Roberts from Stones & Silver said that<br />

planning new collections was a high priority<br />

during the quiet phase of lockdown.<br />

“Even with no trade shows, it is still so<br />

important to continue to develop your brand<br />

and bring in new collections,” said<br />

Cheryle.<br />

Georgini<br />

“Customers still want to see the latest<br />

trends and be ready for when things<br />

open up.”<br />

Ron Loccisano of Searay said that the<br />

repeated lockdowns in Melbourne<br />

forced the company to brainstorm new,<br />

innovative ways to assist their trusted<br />

retailers with stock supply.<br />

“Searay introduced seamless virtual<br />

appointments, which proved to be very<br />

efficient for busy retailers and helpful for<br />

those who preferred to speak and ‘see’ us<br />

rather than place an order via the website,”<br />

said Ron.<br />

It was as simple as a ‘click a link’ and let<br />

Searay take over from there. Ironically,<br />

meeting virtually was most beneficial for<br />

retailers who preferred an offline rather than<br />

online experience. The change-up has proven<br />

so beneficial, that Searay is convinced virtual<br />

appointments are here to stay!<br />

Relying on strong relationships<br />

The jewellery business has a symbiotic<br />

structure, with designers, manufacturers,<br />

suppliers and retailers all supporting<br />

and relying on each other. These strong<br />

relationships were essential during COVID.<br />

Melinda said that the Georgini’s strong longterm<br />

relationship with their manufacturers<br />

really paid off during COVID. “We never<br />

experienced shortages of stock and are very<br />

well stocked for Christmas,” said Melinda.<br />

“Even during lockdown, our efficient stock<br />

monitoring meant that we always stayed<br />

ahead.”<br />

She says that communication is the key to<br />

weathering tough times.<br />

“Our sales managers and our retailers<br />

have the kind of relationship where they<br />

can keep up honest communication<br />

and they have a real desire to work<br />

together to achieve great outcomes.<br />

Having great people in our team<br />

certainly helped keep our sales moving.<br />

And retailers are a resilient bunch of<br />

people! They ride the ups and downs<br />

pretty well.”<br />

Cheryle said that COVID has taught<br />

everyone that patience is required in<br />

all aspects of business now!<br />

“That includes allowing for longer<br />

than normal delivery times from our<br />

overseas suppliers. However, lockdowns<br />

have made us more organised and we have<br />

adjusted our strategy in getting our orders<br />

in much quicker so as to allow for some<br />

slightly longer delivery times,” Cheryle said.<br />

Cheryle says that staying ahead<br />

of schedule was an important<br />

strategy to counteract any delays.<br />

“We used lockdown to get our<br />

orders in early and delivered to<br />

us in plenty of time,” she said.“We<br />

are now fully stocked with loads of<br />

new lines, core basics and one-off<br />

pieces.”<br />

“We have very long-standing<br />

relationships with our suppliers<br />

so we used the lockdowns to<br />

communicate and liaise with the<br />

to develop new ranges, including<br />

our beautiful Oro Bella Matte Gold<br />

range, just in time for Christmas.”<br />

Stones and Silver<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 27



jaa.com.au/vote<br />

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By Cheryl D. Harty<br />


Khalsa 1699 Watches was launched mid 2020 and in just over a<br />

year has carved out a niche for stylish timepieces that are unique in<br />

bearing the revered Khanda insignia.<br />

The brand had its genesis in 2019 when<br />

Khalsa 1699 Watches founder and CEO,<br />

Danny Singh was staying at the Savoy in<br />

London. One morning at breakfast he invited<br />

two guests, an Italian and an Englishman to<br />

join his table. Their discussions that day would<br />

inspire Mr Singh’s next business move.<br />

“At the time I had been looking for a new<br />

venture and as I shook hands and walked away<br />

from the table, I had decided to design my<br />

own range of watches. I then spent the most<br />

frustrating afternoon of my life. I did not know<br />

what logo to use and what I would call them,”<br />

the Melbourne-based businessman recalled.<br />

Still grappling with the conundrum back at<br />

his hotel he tried to get some sleep later that<br />

night.<br />

“That night, the answer came to me in a<br />

dream. While I was sleeping, I dreamt of<br />

the flag flying above the Golden Temple. It<br />

seemed to be telling me: ‘Why are you looking<br />

for a symbol when you are born into the Sikh<br />

heritage? You are born into this symbol.’”<br />

The triangular flag flying above the Golden<br />

Temple – spiritually the most significant<br />

shrine in Sikhism - is known as the Nishan<br />

Sahib which carries the Sikh symbol of<br />

Khanda. Sikhism is the religion and philosophy<br />

founded in the Punjab region of the Indian<br />

subcontinent. Danny Singh is a Sikh and the<br />

second generation of his family to be born<br />

outside the subcontinent in Australia.<br />

At 4am, he got out of bed, sat down and<br />

began to draw the Khanda Sahib emblem he<br />

had seen on the flag in his dream. “It was as<br />

though in the chaos of life I had forgotten<br />

my spiritual identity. The dream gave me a<br />

pathway to a new reality,” he recalled.<br />

Mr Singh looked to the 320th anniversary of<br />

the founding of the revered Khalsa movement,<br />

Khalsa 1699, to inspire his new watch brand.<br />

Sikhs regard the Khanda as the symbol of the<br />

Khalsa faith. Each watch in the Khalsa 1699<br />

range carries the Khanda symbol, reflecting<br />

an exotic martial heritage and embodying the<br />

spirit of freedom.<br />

Khalsa 1699 is the only brand in the world to<br />

use the revered Khanda symbol as its logo.<br />

The watches are designed in Australia and<br />

manufactured in Switzerland and Hong Kong.<br />

Materials, proportions, movements and<br />

contrasting elements are purposely selected<br />

for each watch style.<br />

The Khalsa 1699 Watches range caters for<br />

men and women. Models include Ocean Lion,<br />

Heritage, Speedster, Kaur, Enigma and Divine.<br />

The first watch to be released under the<br />

Khalsa 1699 brand was a professional diver’s<br />

watch dubbed Ocean Lion, which was<br />

launched in July <strong>2021</strong>. Designed to operate in<br />

depths of up to 500 metres, the Swiss made<br />

watch features luminous dial indicators to<br />

ensure optimal visibility. Made with over 200g<br />

of stainless steel, it has an open case back.<br />

“When I knew I had to bring out a watch<br />

with the revered Khan Sahib on it, I knew<br />

it could not be a cheap one. The Ocean<br />

Lion is a diver’s dream watch,” Mr Singh<br />

said. One hundred pieces of the Ocean Lion<br />

were initially released and sold. A second<br />

generation of Ocean Lion watches featuring an<br />

embossed Khanda on the buckle has also been<br />

released onto the market and has moved well.<br />

Today the Khalsa 1699 Ocean Lion collection<br />

comprises three styles: Stealth Commander,<br />

Abyss Black and Marine Blue.<br />

“The Ocean Lion watch is a very masculine<br />

piece and has got a real force. The lion is a<br />

symbol of Khalsa and is a title that is given to<br />

every Sikh man as his middle name, which is<br />

Singh. The lion is very close and dear to all us<br />

in our culture. Thus the name, Ocean Lion.<br />

“We also have the highly coveted Singh watch.<br />

The world’s first super luminous watch, it<br />

30<br />

jewellery world - <strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

comes in a limited edition of 5000 pieces,” he<br />

said.<br />

The Khalsa 1699 Singh watch has a Khanda<br />

Sahib stamped into the clasp and crown and<br />

a deep etched lion’s head and Khanda crown<br />

etched into the back of the case. Each one is<br />

numbered with a lifetime warrantly.<br />

In November, <strong>2021</strong>, Khalsa 1699 introduced<br />

the first Ocean Lion watch with a diamond,<br />

sapphire and ruby bezel.<br />

“We have come up with an original design<br />

for the bezel which will be unique to us in<br />

style in the way the diamonds are set and the<br />

colour combination. I have had our jewellery<br />

team working on it very hard. We will have<br />

these bezels available from the website as<br />

an add-on. If somebody wants to buy one of<br />

these luxury watches, we will organise the<br />

Ocean Lion and will then source the bezel<br />

through our company jewellers. We will<br />

create and manufacture the watch, put the<br />

bezel on the watch face and then deliver the<br />

completed watch,” Mr Singh explained.<br />

The luxury aquatic Sea Tiger, a 200<br />

metre dive watch, is scheduled to<br />

be released onto the market in<br />

<strong>December</strong>. With a AAA grade<br />

finish, this marine sports<br />

watch has a 43mm<br />

diameter case, luminous<br />

indicators and features<br />

an embossed logo on the<br />

second hand and back.<br />

The dial has a raised logo<br />

and the rotor through<br />

the sapphire glass on the<br />

case back also carries the<br />

logo.<br />

“This Swiss-made automatic<br />

marine sport watch is a distinctive<br />

statement piece in style and<br />

manufacturing. It is a wonderful way<br />

to arrive into the watch market and a great<br />

way to make an entrance,” Mr Singh said.<br />

He pointed out that the Ocean Lion, Sea Tiger<br />

and Singh watches are rare and made only in<br />

limited quantities. “When you combine the<br />

heritage, the story behind each model and the<br />

rarity of the watch, it becomes an extremely<br />

valuable piece,” he said.<br />

Mr Singh said he was surprised at how well<br />

the brand had performed to date. “I came up<br />

with the Khalsa 1699 Watches concept<br />

at the end of 2019 and launched the<br />

brand in 2020, during a pandemic. We<br />

went full swing and worked hard.<br />

In one year we sold over 15,000<br />

watches. From November last<br />

year, sales really took off.”<br />

The collection has a wide<br />

appeal. “Buyers see our<br />

watches are beautiful<br />

and they want them.<br />

Many don’t care about<br />

the historical origins of the<br />

brand. The design and quality<br />

appeal to everybody. They carry<br />

a great universal charm that meets<br />

everybody’s taste effortlessly,” Mr<br />

Singh said.<br />

Women’s styles in the Khalsa 1699 range<br />

such as Heritage, Kaur and Divine have all<br />

been well received. The elegant and feminine<br />

Kaur series includes the stunning Crystal Kaur,<br />

a rose gold plated alloy watch that features a<br />

white dial encrusted with dozens of genuine<br />

Swarovski crystals.<br />

A Khanda features on the watch face while<br />

another is stamped into the crown.<br />

Online platform, House of Khalsa, lists all<br />

styles and prices in the Khalsa 1699 Watches<br />

collection accompanied by detailed images<br />

and specifications. Presently the brand is<br />

carried by 11 stockists globally. In 2022,<br />

the brand will release a smart watch and<br />

introduce its first 18 KT gold watches on to<br />

the market. A pilot’s watch and a Swiss ladies<br />

watch are also under development.<br />

“Our aim is to bring excellence to the Khalsa<br />

1699 Watches brand. We are a lot more<br />

than just watches. We are creating watches<br />

that are collectable and can be passed on<br />

as heirlooms. They are inspired by history<br />

with undeniable roots of deep cultural<br />

magnificence and martial heritage. We feel<br />

that we have been very blessed,” Mr Singh<br />

said.<br />

Those interested in becoming authorised<br />

dealers of Khalsa 1699 Watches can contact<br />

Mr Singh through the House of Khalsa<br />

website. The House of Khalsa also has an<br />

accessory offer with a parfum to be added<br />

next year to its recently launched sunglasses<br />

range.<br />

www.houseofkhalsa.com<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 31





For the first time in its 18 year history, two apprentice jewellers will share TAFE<br />

Queensland's <strong>Jewellery</strong> Apprentice of the Year award after the pair took out the<br />

top honour at a recent prestigious awards night.<br />

The fourth-year apprentices' Brock Hodgson (25) and Paul<br />

Armstrong (37), are completing their studies at TAFE<br />

Queensland's South Bank campus, which sees them attend<br />

intensive block training from world-class teachers.<br />

"I have loved my block training through TAFE Queensland,"<br />

Brock said. "My teacher is so helpful and knowledgeable when<br />

demonstrating technical aspects of jewellery manufacturing."<br />

"The on-campus training blocks were so important for learning<br />

techniques that you don't learn at work. My classmates were also<br />

jewellery apprentices, and being able to discuss what we were<br />

learning was a great aspect of the training."<br />

Brock's sentiments were echoed by co-winner Paul, a mature<br />

apprentice who started working with jewellery after engraving items<br />

and repairing watches with Mr Minit.<br />

"We all come from different backgrounds, different areas of the<br />

industry and have different career trajectories, so we share and learn<br />

a lot when we're together," said Paul.<br />

After returning to work from his block training, both Brock and Paul<br />

noticed how enhanced their skills were, thanks to the hands-on<br />

training in world-class facilities with access to modern equipment<br />

found in any manufacturing and design studio around the world.<br />

"During every training block, we fine-tuned our skills by learning<br />

different methods and techniques. Our teachers were also supportive<br />

and encouraging every time we began learning a new facet of<br />

jewellery making," Paul said.<br />

Held each year, the Apprentice Jeweller of the Year Awards celebrate<br />

the talent and creativity of Certificate III in <strong>Jewellery</strong> Manufacturing<br />

graduates through an awards program that forms their final<br />

assessment.<br />

Graduates have four weeks to design and manufacture three pieces<br />

of jewellery that meet specific criteria and fit with a unique theme.<br />

The awards acknowledge the quality, artistry, strength, durability and<br />

wear-ability of students' designs and the overall quality of the finish.<br />

This year's theme was<br />

Reflections, which allowed<br />

the apprentice jewellery<br />

students' imaginations and<br />

technical skills to run wild.<br />

Paul, who has been<br />

undertaking his<br />

apprenticeships at Hogans<br />

Family Jewellers, says that<br />

using his creativity to design<br />

unique bespoke pieces for<br />

the event was an excellent<br />

way to showcase the skillset<br />

he perfected during his studies.<br />

Paul Armstrong's winning entries<br />

Brock Hodgson's winning pieces<br />

"I made a pair of sunglasses with interchangeable lenses, gold inlays<br />

and gems set in one arm with matching cufflinks and a signet ring<br />

which both also had gold inlays and diamonds set in each piece,"<br />

explained Paul.<br />

Brock, an apprentice with Stephen Dibb <strong>Jewellery</strong>, handmade a<br />

matching set of winning pieces that included a ring, pendant and<br />

bracelet.<br />

"After I finished and submitted my pieces, I was content because I<br />

was so proud of my work. I wasn't stressed as I didn't expect to win.<br />

All the different entries showcased each of our different strengths,<br />

and I thought a few of the others were definite winners," continued<br />

Brock.<br />

On the other hand, Paul went through a roller-coaster of emotions<br />

after submitting his pieces and waiting for the big night.<br />

"Waiting for awards night was agony - the anticipation and<br />

excitement were incomparable to anything I'd experienced before.<br />

And when I heard my name announced as the winner, I was ecstatic!"<br />

His delight with reflected by Brock, who described his win as<br />

absolutely amazing. "I was shocked I won but also insanely proud of<br />

my entry - it was genuinely one of the best days I've ever had," said<br />

Brock.<br />

32<br />

jewellery world - <strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Both agree<br />

that winning<br />

vindicates the<br />

effort each has<br />

made to find<br />

employers,<br />

attend block<br />

training and<br />

put in the work<br />

over the past<br />

four years.<br />

Paul Armstrong and Brock Hodgson<br />

"Winning is an amazing feeling. To have our skills and knowledge<br />

recognised in this is mind-blowing. Both of our families and friends are<br />

all proud of us, and I know this is my life's calling," concluded Paul.<br />

TAFE Queensland Director of Faculty Creative Arts and Digital Design,<br />

Jackie French, said having two award winners was a total surprise – but<br />

the judges could not separate the two.<br />

"The judges and I were blown away by the quality of everyone's<br />

jewellery, particularly considering how disruptive COVID has been on<br />

everyone's studies," said Ms French.<br />

"It is incredible to think that students have created the stunning pieces<br />

on display - young people, who are only just starting in the industry."<br />

"Everyone was amazed by the range of talent entering the industry<br />

– it's inspiring, particularly when jewellery manufacturing, like all<br />

manufacturing, has been impacted during COVID."<br />

"As we continue to recover from the pandemic, and consumers return<br />

and drive demand in the jewellery industry, TAFE Queensland must<br />

provide its apprentices with the skills they need to be employable now<br />

and well into the future," concluded Ms French.<br />

Other award winners include:<br />

• Rising Star Award – Declan Stewart<br />

• Rising Star Award Runner Up –Stefanie Cleeton<br />

• Best Overall Design Award – Paul Armstrong<br />

• Best Technical Aspects Award –Brock Hodgson<br />

• Best Design Folio Award - Paul Armstrong<br />

• Queensland <strong>Jewellery</strong> Apprentice of the Year Award – Paul Armstrong<br />

& Brock Hodgson<br />

• Employer of the Queensland <strong>Jewellery</strong> Apprentice of the Year –<br />

Stephen Dibb <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

• Employer of the Queensland <strong>Jewellery</strong> Apprentice of the Year – Hogan<br />

Family Jewellers<br />

For more information about TAFE Queensland's courses or to apply and<br />

change your career, visit tafeqld.edu.au or call 1300 308 233.


Craig Miller<br />

CEO, JC Jewels<br />

www.jcjewels.com.au<br />



I wrote an article a while back entitled Are you selling lab grown diamonds?<br />

In it, I asked if you should be selling lab grown diamonds. Now I am saying if<br />

you're not offering lab grown diamonds, why not?<br />

Change is the only constant. I use<br />

lab grown diamonds as an example<br />

of just one monumental change in<br />

our industry, but look around you: since<br />

COVID-19 started, everything in our personal<br />

lives has changed. In business, I completely<br />

transformed my business model from an<br />

age-old business model that had not changed<br />

for decades.<br />

The retail landscape definitely changed, so<br />

as we return to work, what have you done<br />

in preparation and adaptation to excite your<br />

clients and lift the game in store?<br />

My company, JC Jewels, has gone all in, beta<br />

tested and placed a major focus on lab grown<br />

diamonds and technology to help our clients,<br />

the retailer, sell more diamonds. As a supplier,<br />

this is imperative to keep our clients inline<br />

with the new norm. This has given us the<br />

largest footprint in Australia in our space. Let<br />

me explain how we can help you, with no<br />

dollar investment, but rather an investment in<br />

change.<br />

What made me engage in lab grown<br />

diamonds and technology?<br />

I have built up and closed a family business<br />

in the past. At its peak, it was very successful<br />

but it was failing to move with the times and<br />

so it cost me and my family the business. This<br />

proved to me the only constant is change.<br />

Continual change should be part of your<br />

company’s ethos. When I was first introduced<br />

to lab grown diamonds, I did my research.<br />

I took a leap of faith engaging the biggest<br />

change in my working career, much to my<br />

father’s disappointment being a second<br />

generation diamantaire. Then I embraced<br />

technology. Your client, the consumer, is<br />

engaging these two things in a big way.<br />

Consumers have shifted the manner in which<br />

they engage, research, and transact. It would<br />

be foolish not to acknowledge how important<br />

technology is today, and yes, you need this in<br />

store.<br />

Shoppers are demanding faster engagement,<br />

more detail, education and certainly delivered<br />

with better levels of digital engagement than<br />

ever and at store level – not just in your online<br />

and social presence.<br />

They expect more diversification and choice,<br />

and you need the digital platforms to deliver<br />

this well, in your buying, selling and, most<br />

important, delivery in store. The internet has<br />

spoiled consumers across all industries. They<br />

have come to expect the same in store.<br />

In the jewellery space, with engagement<br />

rings in particular, the consumer wants to<br />

buy from a trusted jeweller. They absorb<br />

extensive online research but, thankfully,<br />

most consumers still want to touch, feel, try<br />

on and buy from their trusted jeweller. Their<br />

expectation with the delivery<br />

of sales staff is high,<br />

anticipating a<br />

certain level<br />

of digital<br />

34<br />

jewellery world - <strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

engagement and presentation in store, empowering them with<br />

more choice, ranges and optionality. This in itself is proving to close<br />

more sales.<br />

The likes of Blue Nile and other online sellers have undoubtedly<br />

empowered the consumer with the knowledge needed to push<br />

the retailers to reduce margins, but on the upside a well-trained<br />

sales person can identify these clients, take advantage of this as<br />

the consumer is already educated, then close the sale faster. And<br />

yes, perhaps on lower margin but if this is executed well your<br />

conversion rate will increase, resulting in a higher conversion rate<br />

with lower margins but more profitability overall.<br />

How much have you changed your business in the past 12 months?<br />

In my company, I employ a full-time in-house tech team. We have<br />

a tech department — how crazy! Talk about change. Who would<br />

have thought a diamond merchant would have an in-house tech<br />

team? We are constantly developing and upgrading our technology<br />

to help jewellers sell more diamonds, to empower and assist you,<br />

the retailer. This gives you faster delivery and an exciting overall<br />

experience. We teach retailers to select their own goods from over<br />

100,000 certified stones in real time. This is far more advantageous<br />

to retailers as they no longer have to rely on what the diamond<br />

merchant wants to sell anymore. Those days are gone.<br />

Our change is working. We realise retailers profitability is also<br />

in their buying – an imperative step when you have to compete<br />

with online sellers. This is fast becoming the new norm in most<br />

industries. Our industry needs to ensure we keep up with consumer<br />

expectations in store. For our clients, we developed a simple tech<br />

package that will monumentally change your business, take you<br />

to the source, and let you decide what to sell. Please create an<br />

account with JC Jewels (www.jcjewels.com.au) and let us take your<br />

business to the new norm and next level.

MelbourneWIN<br />

Attend the <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Industry Fair, and win!<br />

Guests at the <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Fair will<br />

have the chance to win an incredible<br />

selection of Prizes, including:<br />

$2000<br />

thanks to NCJV<br />

National Council of <strong>Jewellery</strong> Valuers<br />

AND<br />

February 6 & 7<br />

The Timber Yard<br />

A set of Lab Grown<br />

Diamond earrings with<br />

a matching necklace<br />

thanks to JC Jewels<br />

Visit the <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Fair<br />

in Melbourne this February, for<br />

your chance to win!<br />

Register your ticket for the fair<br />

jewelleryindustryfair.com<br />

Terms and Conditions are listed on<br />

the <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Fair website.<br />


<strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Network<br />

Laura Moore,<br />

Managing Director<br />

LauraM@<strong>Jewellery</strong>IndustryNetwork.com<br />


Kicking off 2022 with a fabulous February fair sounds like the<br />

perfect way to start the year for your business.<br />

The end of the year is approaching and<br />

the start of a fresh and exciting new<br />

one is on the horizon, bringing with it a<br />

luxurious jewellery event in Melbourne – the<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Fair.<br />

With dozens of suppliers all bringing new<br />

designs, ranges and something to offer, the<br />

Fair is the perfect spot for the jewellery<br />

industry to reunite and restock ready for a<br />

new year, going live on the 6th and 7th of<br />

February.<br />

Fair organiser, the <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Network,<br />

is excited to see the event bring something<br />

new to the industry with a dedicated event<br />

which inspires and invigorates industry<br />

members.<br />

Held at the Timber Yard in Melbourne, the<br />

event brings together high end luxury with the<br />

rustic and artisanal side of the industry. The<br />

venue holds character and charm, and really<br />

speaks to the incredible craftsmanship of the<br />

jewellery industry. The fusion of this venue<br />

and luxurious fine jewellery will bring a unique<br />

feeling and experience to the industry which<br />

will inspire the year ahead.<br />

Exhibitors at the Fair are some of the<br />

industry's most dedicated suppliers, with<br />

high end jewellery, diamonds, lab grown<br />

diamonds, branded ranges, precious metals,<br />

pearls and so much more! A list of exhibitors<br />

is on the <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Fair website, and<br />

still growing!<br />

Upon entrance to the Fair, guests will be<br />

greeted with a showbag of goodies and a<br />

glass of bubbles to start the fair in style.<br />

Walking down the lawn of the Timber Yard,<br />

guests can then immerse themselves in the<br />

story of how jewellery is made with the Fair<br />

Mine to Market gallery, before entering the<br />

hall of exhibitors.<br />

While shopping at the Fair, guests can also<br />

go into the draw to win a selection of prizes,<br />

including $2000 from the National Council<br />

of <strong>Jewellery</strong> Valuers, and a set of lab grown<br />

diamond earrings and necklace thanks to JC<br />

Jewels.<br />

During the event, guests can choose to<br />

experience a selection of other activities<br />

which will encourage networking and be<br />

educational and inspiring.<br />

Bringing together industry associations, the<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Fair is also excited to play<br />

host to the entrants of the JAA <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Design Awards pieces. Award celebrations<br />

then continue on Sunday 6 February at the<br />

Crown Casino.<br />

The Fair will be a true celebration of the<br />

industry, with the team at the <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Industry Network committed to ensuring the<br />

event is not only safe, but also great fun and<br />

gives businesses the ability to trade and set<br />

themselves up for 2022.<br />

A warm welcome is extended to all jewellery<br />

businesses in the trade for the February<br />

event. Tickets can be booked online via the<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Fair website.<br />

www.jewelleryindustryfair.com<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 37


Stone Set Cross<br />

When I first started teaching apprentices, I noticed that there<br />

were some skills gaps in their training, such as ajour cut work<br />

(French for opening that lets in light). This is the traditional way<br />

to finish the bottom of settings maximising the light onto the<br />

stone. So, I promptly introduced this old-school technique to the<br />

program.This is a great introduction to ajour cutting. Once it is<br />

mastered, the eternity ring project will not seem so difficult.<br />

1This project is made to fit 15 x<br />

2.5mm stones and is made with<br />

sterling silver 4.5mm x 4.5mm x<br />

60mm stock gauge squarewire or<br />

you can melt 12 grams and roll to 4.5mm<br />

square. Reduce to 3.5mm square but<br />

maintain the sharp edges. To do this,<br />

carefully roll it through the flat sections<br />

of the roll mill turning as you go. If you<br />

tighten the rolls too much the profile<br />

could distort.<br />

2<br />

Anneal and flatten it out to get it<br />

perfectly straight. Square off one end<br />

and set your dividers to 3.5mm. Mark<br />

off seven spaces then cut and square<br />

off the other end. Mark off 9 spaces on the<br />

remaining square wire. Cut and square off<br />

the ends. The remaining wire can be rolled<br />

and used to make the bail.<br />

3<br />

The two pieces now need to<br />

friction fit into each other by<br />

making a box joint. Cut out half of<br />

the centre square section of the<br />

shorter piece. Use your square needle<br />

file to finish off shaping the cutand test<br />

fit using the remaining square wire. Now<br />

cut out half of the fourth square along<br />

on the longer piece.<br />

4<br />

File a little over halfway to ensure<br />

the joint is perfectly flush and make<br />

sure that there are no gaps around<br />

the joint. It is bad practice to overuse<br />

solder to fill them. Ideally,the two parts<br />

should hold together and not fall apart<br />

when they are connected.<br />

5<br />

Flux the inside of the box joint and<br />

lock them firmlytogether. Give the<br />

joint a firm tap with your mallet to<br />

ensure it is really tight.<br />

Hard solder the joint and pickle to remove<br />

the oxides.<br />

6<br />

Re-establish the spacing with your<br />

dividers and scribe lines across<br />

the front. Check with a set square.<br />

Cut the lines with a 4/0 or 5/0 saw blade<br />

to the depth of around half the blade<br />

thickness, then cut the lines down the<br />

sides. Again, use a set square to confirm<br />

that all your lines are perfectly square.<br />

38<br />

jewellery world - <strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

7<br />

Now mark out for the square holes<br />

at the back of the cross.Set your<br />

dividers to slightly under 1mm and<br />

scribe around the outside of the cross. To<br />

scribe the inner ladder marks, keep the<br />

same setting on your dividers and scribe<br />

double lines across using your dividers<br />

and ruler. You should be able to see the<br />

side cut marks and use them to locate the<br />

correct spacings.<br />

8<br />

Now drill through each setting with<br />

a 1mm pilot drill. Keep turning the<br />

cross over to check that you are<br />

drilling straight. Open the holes out with<br />

a 1.2mm drill and make any necessary<br />

corrections. Countersink the holes with<br />

a ball bur that’s around 2.2mm. You can<br />

also countersink the underside as this will<br />

assist when you start to perform the ajour<br />

cut work.<br />

9<br />

Insert a 4/0 or 5/0 saw blade into a<br />

setting and begin the cutting work<br />

by angling the blade forwards. Keep<br />

the blade moving as you first cut into the<br />

corners forming a star shape. Then scrape<br />

the blade along the scribe line from corner<br />

to corner. Cutting squares can be tricky and<br />

may result in some accidental cuts past the<br />

scribe line. Try to stay well within the scribe<br />

lines for you first attempts. You can perfect<br />

the work once you have some experience.<br />

10<br />

The aim of the game is to look<br />

for improvement with each one.<br />

Do not obsess about obtaining<br />

perfection at first, and don’t be<br />

too concerned if you mess up the first few<br />

holes.<br />

Before you work on the sides, cut cross lines<br />

intothe top of each square setting. Now angle<br />

your blade to 45° and cut down the sides from<br />

the centre cuts. Saw until your blade reaches<br />

the centre of the top and side of the setting.<br />

11number of different burs. The<br />

To create the round openings<br />

in the settings you could use a<br />

obvious one to use is a cone bur.<br />

Drive the point of the bur in but make<br />

sure you do not cut through the top of<br />

the side setting. Switch to a round bur<br />

to finish off. This will make the openings<br />

perfectly round.<br />

12<br />

Once all the cutwork is<br />

completed you can make a<br />

simple bail and solder it to the<br />

top.<br />

The assessment of your saw cutting<br />

skills should be done at this stage before<br />

any stone setting is carried out. A selfassessment<br />

sheet is in the curriculum.<br />

The online course includes video<br />

instructions for setting round stones into<br />

square settings.<br />

Peter Keep is a<br />

master jeweller<br />

and teacher. He<br />

offers structured<br />

online courses<br />

that have helped<br />

thousands of<br />

students around<br />

the world improve<br />

their skills.<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Training Solutions offers a comprehensive online training service<br />

including the popular Ten Stage Apprenticeship Course.<br />

Check out the other courses and options at<br />

www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 39


Bianc | +61 413 872 810<br />

The Lapis Lazuli Edit | Make a grand entrance with Bianc’s latest<br />

additions to the Lumiere Collection. An exquisite range featuring<br />

textured gold plated sterling silver and luxurious lapis lazuli, this<br />

collection will turn heads this season.<br />

Everything is ready for order available now. Bianc product prices range<br />

between RRP $39-$399.<br />

info@bianc.com.au - @bianc_jewellery - www.bianc.com.au<br />

Stones and Silver | +61 3 9587 1215<br />

Direct from Italy, our stunning new Oro Bella Collection has arrived.<br />

Set in .925 sterling silver with matte gold plating this collection is<br />

luxury at its finest.<br />

Modern designs combined with timeless elegance it’s the perfect<br />

addition to your collection.<br />

www.stonesandsilver.com.au<br />

Zahar | +61 413 872 810<br />

Zahar brings you textured gold goodness from the Indiana Collection.<br />

Featuring crushed gold bangles, bold chains and statement earrings,<br />

there is a piece for any occasion.<br />

Everything is available now and ready for order! Zahar product prices<br />

range between RRP $39-$139.<br />

info@zahar.com.au<br />

@zahar.collection<br />

www.zahar.com.au<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre | +61 7 3221 3838<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre’s new range of lockets includes:<br />

Sterling silver round criss-cross pattern locket<br />

9ct yellow gold border pattern oval locket<br />

9ct yellow gold beaded and engraved border oval locket<br />

www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com<br />

40<br />

jewellery world - <strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Ellendale Diamonds Australia<br />

Desert Rose <strong>Jewellery</strong> | +61 8 6111 1961<br />

An exquisite matching pendant & earring set features rare<br />

certified Argyle pink diamonds.<br />

18K white/rose gold pendant, featuring a 13.5mm Broome<br />

South Sea pearl, set with round diamonds F SI 0.14 carats and<br />

complimented with a round 0.09 carat 6P SI pink diamond from<br />

the Argyle diamond mine.<br />

18K white/rose gold hook earrings, set with 14mm Broome<br />

South Sea Pearls and claw set with two 7P pink diamonds 0.09ct<br />

each from the Argyle mine, accented with white F-G SI round<br />

diamonds totalling 0.32ct.<br />

www.ellendalediamonds.com.au<br />

At Ellendale Diamonds, we have secured 1000<br />

carats of origin guaranteed Argyle white diamond<br />

melee. Perfect for your client's custom-made<br />

jewellery orders.<br />

Get in quick so you don't miss out!<br />

Contact us for further details.<br />


COLOUR<br />


Suite 5, Level 1, 428 George Street SYDNEY NSW 2000<br />

P +61 2 8065 8533 E info@sovereigngems.com<br />


chain<br />

services<br />

coloured stones<br />

PO Box 112<br />

Toronto NSW 2283<br />

P: 02 9380 4742 ∙ F: 02 8580 6168<br />

E: sales@adelaimports.com<br />

Adela Imports offer over 180<br />

designs of sterling silver chain,<br />

with up to 20 lengths available<br />

in each from stock.<br />

Also offering a range of<br />

uniquely designed silver<br />

jewellery.<br />

Catalogue available.<br />

www.adelaimports.com<br />

services<br />

Chris O’Neill<br />

Piecemaker<br />

2015 YJG Bench Challenge<br />

Hand Engraving Champion.<br />

Also specialising in quality<br />

Handmakes, Repairs and<br />

Antique restorations in the<br />

Sydney CBD.<br />

0405 689 834<br />







ADELAIDE (08) 7221 2202<br />

MELBOURNE (03) 9038 8545<br />

PERTH (08) 6363 5517<br />

SYDNEY (02) 8004 1626<br />

Glues<br />

(07) 3876 7481<br />

sales@labanda.com.au<br />

FAX: (07) 3368 3100<br />

www.labanda.com.au<br />

MILN & CO. Pty Ltd<br />

Ph: 02 4655 7707 M: 0412 702 834<br />

E:stuart.miln@milnco.com.au<br />

Lancier Watch Bands - Leather, metal, sports.<br />

Watchglasses. Seals. Batteries. Quartz Movements.<br />

Pins/tools. <strong>Jewellery</strong> findings. J C Hurst Bangles.<br />

Fischer Barometers and Tide Clocks<br />


The classifieds section is an excellent place for suppliers and<br />

manufacturers to advertise products and services in a longrunning,<br />

low cost way.<br />

All size ads are available and may include product<br />

photos. Visit our website to download our media<br />

pack for prices.<br />

www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

Merry Christmas<br />

and<br />

Happy Holidays<br />

to all our readers,<br />

advertisers and contributors.<br />

Wishing you all the best for 2022.<br />

Are you <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

<strong>World</strong>'s biggest joker?<br />

Got a gem of a gag, a diamond of<br />

a giggle, a real shiner to share?<br />

Fed up with the lame efforts we<br />

publish here? Send us something<br />

funny – we dare you.<br />

No, really, please do. See what<br />

we've been reduced to?<br />

Send your joke to<br />

jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

42<br />

jewellery world - <strong>December</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

FEBRUARY 6 & 7<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Industry Fair<br />



More exhibitors listed on our website<br />

Register your ticket for the fair<br />

jewelleryindustryfair.com<br />

We warmly welcome you to attend<br />

the <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Fair.<br />

Build your ranges for 2022 whilst<br />

networking with industry members.<br />


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