Art this piece of street theatre’s effect that a wall-notice stipulates the design be <strong>in</strong> no way changed by future generations. Today’s crowds keep to nearby Piazza Navona. Comparatively secluded, Piazza della Pace, match<strong>in</strong>g its name, rema<strong>in</strong>s one of Roma’s most delightful squares. And to th<strong>in</strong>k Cortona claimed his architecture was a mere hobby… Also little visited <strong>in</strong> SS. Luca and Mart<strong>in</strong>a. As tourists shuttle between the Roman Forum and Campidoglio, the church is easily overlooked, which is a pity, given its beautiful crypt. Cortona’s work actually began back under Pope Urban, <strong>in</strong>spired, as with S. Bibiana, by concurrent exhumation of a sa<strong>in</strong>t – Mart<strong>in</strong>a. The rema<strong>in</strong>s’ authenticity has s<strong>in</strong>ce been contested*, but <strong>in</strong>itially fortune and/or providence seemed <strong>in</strong> Cortona’s favour. Until his patron, Card<strong>in</strong>al Francesco Barber<strong>in</strong>i, was accused by Innocent X of embezzlement and fled to France. A seven year <strong>in</strong>terruption ensued. After which Cortona’s work started aga<strong>in</strong>, this time on the upper church, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g rose-stuccoed dome and the floor where he would eventually be buried. Self portrait by Pietro da Cortona. from his sympathetic portrait of Urban VIII back <strong>in</strong> the Capitol<strong>in</strong>e Museums one may hazard that the Barber<strong>in</strong>i pope is smil<strong>in</strong>g too. The ceil<strong>in</strong>g could have turned out differently. While Cortona was away decorat<strong>in</strong>g Florence’s Pitti Palace, two overween<strong>in</strong>g assistants determ<strong>in</strong>ed to complete the masterwork on their own. However their presumption was checked when the <strong>in</strong>tonaco / plaster ran out, stuccatori’s / plasterers’ pay hav<strong>in</strong>g fallen <strong>in</strong> arrears. Urban’s papacy once ended, Barber<strong>in</strong>i card<strong>in</strong>als hav<strong>in</strong>g fled to France, one might expect a downturn <strong>in</strong> Cortona’s fortunes. But, talent and tact ever to the fore, he was soon decorat<strong>in</strong>g pro-Spanish Innocent X’s Pamphilij palace/ new power-centre <strong>in</strong> Piazza Navona with “Stories of Aeneas.” Ownership currently rest<strong>in</strong>g with the Brazilian embassy, the fresco-cycle is visitable twice a week for guided tours <strong>in</strong> Italian and Portuguese. Under Alexander VII, Cortona’s first Chigi commission was S. Maria della Pace. The facade of the new church, alternat<strong>in</strong>g concave and convex a la Borrom<strong>in</strong>i, conjured harmony from urban mess. Better seen than described, a conf<strong>in</strong>ed space suddenly seemed much larger. So pleas<strong>in</strong>g was Out of envy or no, some of Cortona’s fellow S. Luca academicians suspected a plot to turn the church, (his ‘beloved daughter’ he called it) <strong>in</strong>to a private mausoleum**. The lower church was roped off and a six-year controversy broke out. Accus<strong>in</strong>g the academicians of obtructionism, Cortona’s supporters prevailed, duly plac<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the lower church a more fulsome wall-plaque/cenonotaph and bust. Not that Cortona ceased pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g altogether. Next door to the rippl<strong>in</strong>g façade of Borrom<strong>in</strong>i’s Oratory, S. Maria <strong>in</strong> Vallicella comb<strong>in</strong>es spectacle with the miraculous. Look up and one sees an expanse of (blue) sky. The church-roof, or its rema<strong>in</strong>s, threatens to crash down on one’s head. Only the presence of the Virg<strong>in</strong> and some strong-armed putti prevent disaster. Cortona cont<strong>in</strong>ued creat<strong>in</strong>g alterpieces. In Borrom<strong>in</strong>i’s S. Ivo, then <strong>in</strong> S. Carlo dei Cat<strong>in</strong>ari. In Pope Alexander’s 1661 refurbishment of Castel Gandolfo’s church to newly-canonised Tommaso da Villanova, he created The Crucifixion altarpiece. Work<strong>in</strong>g alongside him <strong>in</strong> the church was Bern<strong>in</strong>i, as they had done back <strong>in</strong> S. Bibiana 37 years before. *Donatella Sparti, Article, 998 **Cor<strong>in</strong>na Ricosoli- from ‘Who telleth a tale of unspeak<strong>in</strong>g death’, Dubl<strong>in</strong> 12 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>
UK NATIONAL SETTLED IN ITALY BEFORE 1 JANUARY <strong>2021</strong>? Make sure your residency <strong>in</strong> Italy is easily recognised. Request your new Carta di Soggiorno Elettronica from your local Questura as soon as possible. And don’t get confused…it isn’t the same th<strong>in</strong>g as your electronic ID card. F<strong>in</strong>d out more on gov.uk/liv<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>italy
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