UFASHON MAGAZINE COUTURE SS 2022

© COURTESY OF SCHIAPARELLI
SPRING
SUMMER
2022
COUTURE
THE BEST
SS 2022
COLLECTION
FROM PARIS
JAQUET DROZ
BIRD REPEATER
“300TH ANNIVERSARY
EDITION”
ELIE SAAB COLLABORATES
WITH RAK CERAMICS TO
LAUNCH AN EXQUISITE
SURFACE COLLECTION

IN ATELIER
MAISON MARGIELA

CIVIDINI
CATWALK

JEWELRY
ELEONORA GHILARDI

EMBROIDERY
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN for LOVE BRINGS LOVE - AZ FACTORY

TEXTILES
SAMATEX

ACCESSORIES
SCHIAPARELLI

HOME
ELIE SAAB WITH RAK CERAMICS

DESIGN
ÈTÈ MONTECARLO AUTOMOBILES

UFASHON MAGAZINE COUTURE SPRING SUMMER 2022 CONTENTS
24-27
ACNE STUDIOS
28-31
AKRIS
32-37
ALEXANDRE BLANC
38-41
ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER
42-45
ALEXIS MABILLE
46-51
ALESSIA ZAMATTIO
SAMATEX 52
54-55
ANNAGIULIA FIRENZE
62-67
ANREALAGE
68-77
AZ FACTORY
78-83
BALENCIAGA
90-93
BARBARA BUI
94-97
BENJAMIN BENMOYAL
98-101
BOTTER
102-105
BOYAROVSKAYA
108-111
LAURENT FERRIER
112-115
CECILIE-BAHNSEN
122-127
CHLO
CHANEL
128-129
CHRISTIAN-WIJNANTS
130-135
CIVIDINI
136-143
COPERNI
144-149
COURRÈGES
150-155
DANIELE ANCARANI
158-159
DAWEI
160-163
DICE KAYEK
164-165
DIDU
166-171
DIOR
172-175
JAQUET DROZ
116
DRIES VAN
NOTEN 176
184-185
CLASSICO CON TWIST
186-191
ELIE SAAB
192-193
NOT JUST SUNGLASSES
194-195
PEPITOS
196-197
E. R. DÉPRIMÉS
198-201
GAUCHERE
204-207
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
208-211
HELIOT EMIL
212-215
ISSEY-MIYAKE
216-219
ELEONORA GHILARDI
220-221
ELIE SAAB-RAK CERAMICS
222-229
NOMADE
230-231
JITROIS
232-233
IJO DESIGN
234-235
KIMHEKIM
236-239
ALIDA LIBERALE
240-243
KOCHÉ
244-251
LANVIN
252-253
LECAVALIER
254-255
ALESSANDRA BALBI
256-259
LEONARD PARIS
260-265
ZILLA
266-269
LITKOVSKAYA
270-273
MAISON MARGIELA
274-277
MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ
278-281
MIDORJ
282-285
MAME KUROGOUCHI
286-287
OFFICINA & DESIGN
290-291
GET INSPIRED
292-293
MARINE SERRE
294-297
CHOPARD
298-299
MAURIZIO MIRI
300-301
MAZARINE
302-303
MINUIT
306-311
MIU MIU
NINA RICCI 324
312-313
ANTONIANI
314-315
THE REVOLUTION
316-317
MOSSI
318-319
LEOPOLDINE
320-323
NEHERA
328-331
NINAMOUNAH
334-335
PATOU
336-337
PHISIQUE DU ROLE
UMA WANG 388
338-339
RAF SIMONS
340-343
REBIRTH ITALY
344-345
ARE YOU READY?
346-349
ROCHAS
350-353
SADAELS
354-361
SCHIAPARELLI
362-369
M.C. AUTOMOBILES
370-371
SHANG XIA
VALENTINO 400
372-375
SHIATZY CHEN
376-377
SITUATIONIST
378-379
DIOR MAKE UP
380-381
THEBE MAGUGU
382-383
TOM VAN DER BORGHT
384-385
UJOH
392-395
UNGARO
VIVIENNE
WESTWOOD
396-397
BAIADERA
398-399
VALENTIN YUDASHKIN
410-411
VICTORIA/TOMAS
420-423
WEINSANTO
424-425
WOS
426-427
XULY BET
428-429
YOHJI-YAMAMOTO
430-431
ZADIG VOLTAIRE
412
There is a site, with an exotic name,
called “The Fashion Desert” that is
located in the Atacama Desert, a
desert that stretches from southern
Peru to northern Chile.
In this desert place among the
beautiful dunes, tons and tons of
discarded clothing from all over the
world are dumped every day.
Being non-degradable material, all
the “fast fashion” clothes coming
from every region of the world, are
literally eating this portion of the
forgotten desert.
Fashion designers and not only, for
several years are committed to using
recycled materials to create their
collections.
Thanks to their creative flair, you can
admire their extraordinary readyto-wear
creations presented during
Paris Fashion Week or during events
created ad hoc.
The commitment and responsibility
is now on all of us to choose garments
and accessories that can represent
our style, but that are also made with
respect for the environment.
You will discover in this new edition
of UFASHON MAGAZINE COUTURE
SS 2022 wonderful maisons that
can satisfy every need of style and
glamour, without renouncing to the
charm and above all the collections
presented are the result of a lot of
research in the utmost responsibility
for the environment.
DOWNLOAD
www.ufashon.com

ACNE
STUDIOS
The clash of handcrafted historical pieces with a hyper
futuristic attitude. A collection about self-identity and instinct,
an experimentation that has always been the heart of Acne
Studios.
“We live in the age of self-identity, of instinct and
experimentation. The look is provocative and hard, yet is
grounded in handcrafts that are then subverted,” says Jonny
24
FINDING
STRENGTH IN
CONTRAST
ACNE STUDIOS
© C O U R T E S Y O F A C N E S T U D I O S
Johansson, Creative Director of Acne Studios.
The clash of handcrafted historical pieces with a
Finding strength in contrast, there are four main themes:
hyper futuristic attitude. A collection about self-
chiffon matched with leather; plaid contrasted with lingerie;
identity and instinct, an experimentation that has
crochet and knits that are toughened up; handcrafted corsets
always been the heart of Acne Studios.
that are exploded and unleashed.
“We live in the age of self-identity, of instinct and
It’s about a juxtaposition of grandeur with fierce energy, and
experimentation. The look is provocative and
the possibilities of play.
hard, yet is grounded in handcrafts that are then
Chiffon shirts have an etched baroque print, held by ties
subverted,” says Jonny Johansson, Creative Director
at the neck and chest, and trailing from the oversized cuff.
of Acne Studios.
Aged leather button-fronted mini skirts have buckled belts
Finding strength in contrast, there are four main
attached, like the straps of a saddle. A high-necked long sleeve
themes: chiffon matched with leather; plaid
short leather dress is patchworked from purposefully irregular
contrasted with lingerie; crochet and knits that
rectangles, with corset lacing that holds an open seam from
are toughened up; handcrafted corsets that are
armhole to hem. Just as strong is a full length
exploded and unleashed.
printed chiffon dress, its keyhole decolletage held by ties.
It’s about a juxtaposition of grandeur with fierce
Panels of plaid are applied to a mesh base to create a little
energy, and the possibilities of play.
jacket with jewelled buttons, worn with a soft jersey rib skirt
© C O U R T E S Y O F A C N E S T U D I O S
that plays with lingerie detailing, like hook and eye fastenings
and suspenders. Sheer jersey socks continue the story, with
corset lacing that goes all the way to the knee. A tank top is
cut from a plaid shirt, matched with a rib knit shrug and white
leather pants patchworked from a blown-up baroque pattern.
A white off-the-shoulder jumpsuit is knitted in a diamond crochet stitch, the elegance of
the neckline contrasting with the purposeful irregularity of its seams that are whip-stitched
together. Silhouettes are subverted, like a portrait neckline cropped jacket in eyelash stitch
worn with a little eyelash stitch skirt, while a hand-crocheted little vest is resplendent with
crochet flowers, echoing the hand-crocheted bags.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

A HYPER
FUTURISTIC
ATTITUDE
Chiffon shirts have an etched baroque print, held by ties
at the neck and chest, and trailing from the oversized cuff.
Aged leather button-fronted mini skirts have buckled belts
attached, like the straps of a saddle. A high-necked long
sleeve short leather dress is patchworked from purposefully
irregular rectangles, with corset lacing that holds an open
Traditionally handmade corsets are cut up and
reappropriated, released from constriction but keeping
their strength of line. A corset top has attached sleeves,
worn with a skirt constructed as if from a corset turned
upside down and inside out. A sheer wrapped dress sits
under a corset that’s upside down, giving freedom of
movement, while an open corset is stitched into a dress
fringed with beaded florals, its squared hips created
from the pattern lines of a bodice.
Jewellery chains, necklaces and charms are as if thrown
on, while small leather half-moon bags have wide
guitar-like straps. Sunglasses are futuristic, mirroring
the ergonomic lines of super high wooden platforms.
seam from armhole to hem. Just as strong is a full length
printed chiffon dress, its keyhole décolletage held by ties.
Panels of plaid are applied to a mesh base to create a little
jacket with jewelled buttons, worn with a soft jersey rib skirt
that plays with lingerie detailing, like hook and eye fastenings
and suspenders. Sheer jersey socks continue the story, with
corset lacing that goes all the way to the knee.
A tank top is cut from a plaid shirt, matched with a rib knit
shrug and white leather pants patchworked from a blown-up
baroque pattern. A white off-the-shoulder jumpsuit is knitted
in a diamond crochet stitch, the elegance of the neckline
contrasting with the purposeful irregularity of its seams
that are whip-stitched together. Silhouettes are subverted,
like a portrait neckline cropped jacket in eyelash stitch worn
with a little eyelash stitch skirt, while a hand-crocheted little
vest is resplendent with crochet flowers, echoing the handcrocheted
bags.
w w w . a c n e s t u d i o s . c o m
The Venezuelan artist Arca has created an original composition for the show, SMOKEBENDING,
PAGE 26 PAGE 27
to capture the sense of performance and occasion. “Arca represents everything this collection is
about,” says Johansson, “and it is our honour that she created music especially for this show.”

AKRIS
28
C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : A L B E R T K R I E M L E R
P H : B O N W A N N A W A T
Discover the Akris Spring-
Summer 2022 collection by
Albert Kriemler, unveiled
in an exclusive film, shot in
Akris’ home city, St.Gallen,
Switzerland.
The film evolves around the
idea of a woman and an
apron, paying tribute to the
foundation of the house, build
by Albert’s grandmother, Alice,
sewing aprons from St.Gallen
fabrics and embroideries in
1922. A showcase of sensual,
tailored, empowering looks,
staged at the “Rote Platz
Stadtlounge”, a work by
Swiss artist Pipilotti Rist and
architect Carlos Martinez.
WATCH
THE VIDEO
HERE

w w w . e u . a k r i s . c o m
A showcase of sensual, tailored, empowering looks
PAGE 30 PAGE 31

L’ÉLITE
CULTURELLE
32
ALEXANDRE
BLANC
EXUBERANT FEMININITY
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R A L E X A N D R E B L A N C
P H : T H O M A S T I S S A N D I E R

For Alexandre Blanc, the starting
point for all of his collections are
the prints he designs and paints,
but this season and for the very
first time these have a deeply
personal connection, drawing their
inspiration from his own Italian
heritage, but also the country’s
intensely rich artistic past.
Slim Aarons’ photographs of
the Italian high society in their
element depict a certain decadent
slice of the cultural elite, where
dressing up was an act of fun. For
Spring/Summer 2022, Alexandre
Blanc celebrates this exuberant
femininity with a collection
primarily made for cocktail hour,
and by hinting at this long-gone
air of social extravagance.
The geometric floor and wall patterns of this
palace are contrasted with swirling animal motifs,
all printed on textiles that deliberately retain their
hand-painted aspect. Colours echo the burnt Sierra
tones and faded hues of Italian classical frescoes,
with bright yellow, pink and green contrasts
throughout.
While further exploring the décolleté on his
signature fitted dresses and portefeuille blouses,
the response to their elegance is found with
revelatory new volumes: an easy bustier, a sharp
tunic, and printed silk pyjamas are languid in their
fluidity.
With luxe fabrics ranging from crepe de chine to
linen shantung, hardware is provided by a limited
edition range of jewellery in collaboration with
the historic House of Goossens. Working together
for the second time, the shapes have confidently
been taken further this season with hand-beaten
brass, glass, and pearls in an organically shaped
selection of earrings, bracelets, a big necklace, and
even eye-glasses.
“I’ve never shown anything so
Italian” Alexandre says, “it’s not
only part of my family heritage,
but also my personal taste for the
country. The art and architecture
are a huge and continuous source
of inspiration for me”
That he looks at architecture
is evident: the exercise in style
around this season’s prints were
stimulated by a visit to Villa
Farnese at Caprarola.
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PAGE 34 PAGE 35

A GENUINE ZEST
FOR MODERN LIFE
To present his collection, Alexandre and his stylist
perched hand-made raffia hats on the heads of
models and muse-like friends who inspire him. “Or
are they masks?” — to Alexandre, they’re a final nod
to Italian culture, to grand balls in classic movies
scenes with fantastically well-dressed party guests.
“I make clothes with personal motifs that are joyful
and made for going out and having fun”. It’s the
almost other-worldly decadence of Federico Fellini,
but with a genuine zest for modern life.
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THE VIDEO
PAGE 36 PAGE 37

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER
38
Alexandre Vauthier joined Thierry Mugler ’s
studio at the end of his studies, in whic
he discovered the architecture of the
garment,its rigor and its requirement.
He then became head designer of Jean-Paul
Gaultier’s Couture Collection, an experience
that lasted eight years and reinforced his
desire to express himself fully in his own
home.
His professional collaborations in Japan, his
numerous trips to the united states, enrich
his creative universe and offer him the
beginnings of a first collection.
In January 2009 , Alexandre Vauthier created
his brand under his own name.
The radicality of the cuts, the rigour and
precision that characterize them anchor his
style in french fashion culture and the
anglo saxon influences that inspire him.
Supported by the press, couture clients
and international celebrities, her
creative universe is full of collaborations in
different artistic universes: ready-to-wear,
stage costumes, perfumes, music, interior
architecture.
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : A L E X A N D R E V A U T H I E R
P H : K A R I M S A D L I

THE TRUE EXPRESSION OF COUTURE
w w w . a l e x a n d r e v a u t h i e r . c o m
PAGE 40 PAGE 41

DANCE MACHINE
ALEXIS
MABILLE
42
W W W . A L E X I S M A B I L L E . C O M
The Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2022 Collection
by Alexis Mabille is a hymn to life, sensuality and
the most sublime beauty. Long dresses that caress
the body come to life with the slightest movement,
without any limitation of space and their casual
elegance enchants as if by magic, the same magic
that transports love to life.
In an exclusive Parisian club “Silencio”, the models
dance without ever stopping and they celebrate a
new era of love and joy.
The elegance of the tailored cuts
of the dresses enchants and their
colors echo with their reflections
that seem to give life to imaginary
shapes that are released into the
air thanks to the lightness of the
fabrics.
The harmony of the entire
collection expresses the dynamism
of a strong femininity.

THE DYNAMISM
OF A STRONG
FEMININITY
The outfits are accompanied
by beautiful “Baseball Cap”
delicately embroidered giving
a perfect style for both day and
evening ... because when the
music plays ... everywhere we
can dance.... “Dance Machine”
WATCH
THE VIDEO
HERE
C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : A L E X I S M A B I L L E
P H : J U L I E T R A N N O Y
A PERFECT
STYLE
PAGE 44 PAGE 45

A desire to feel simply
BEAUTIFUL
Dresses that have the ambition to
MAKE A WOMAN FEEL MORE
CHARMING
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : A L E S S I A Z A M A T T I O
© C O U R T E S Y O F Z A M A T T I O
ALESSIA ZAMATTIO
46

Soft lines for a
feminine woman
The Alessia Zamattio collection was born with
the ambition to create clothes that describe a
feminine woman, sweet and, at the same time,
strong and committed, blending the romanticism
of precious fabrics such as silk, with soft and
comfortable lines, designed to reconcile the need
for practicality that our daily life imposes us with
our desire to feel simply beautiful.
PAGE 48 PAGE 49

THE STYLE
The collection is featured by DRESSES WITH
SOFT AND AIRY LINES, with a waistline
underlined by self-tie belts, made only of very
light silk capable of creating overlapping
and delicate transparencies.
Fabrics with romantic floral patterns in
refined shades of white, beige, pink, aqua
green.
A new heritage of elegance
Dresses that have the ambition to MAKE A
WOMAN FEEL MORE CHARMING, caressed by
the seductive sensations that only silk can give,
following the oscillating movements of the body
in a slow, sweet way, enveloping her as only a
perfume could do.
The Alessia Zamattio
collections celebrate
the romantic side of
femininity
The Alessia Zamattio collections celebrate the romantic side of femininity and reinterpret
it as a function of a present in which the woman, rediscovering a new heritage of elegance
and awareness in her sensuality, chooses to bring out the grace she holds within herself to
wear it with pride and ease.
w w w . z a m a t t i o . n e t
PAGE 50 PAGE 51

SAMATEX
DISCOVER
52
THE FUTURE
Research and innovation are the key words
Thirty years of success in the name of
creativity and the most original and innovative
experimentation.
Samatex is a company of Italian excellence
capable of attracting a demanding customers.
Over the years their extraordinary collections
have become the starting point for prestigious
brands on the international scene.
Every season Samatex presents modern, avantgarde
and decisive collections, responding to
the creativity of its customers.
There is no challenge that Samatex is not
capable of winning. From laser cutting, to the
highest quality embroidery, from 3D optical, to
applications or fitting of Swarovski®, Samatex
always proposes unique solutions in the
fashion system, from clothing to accessories,
from bridal to the most futuristic design.
Research and innovation are the key words
of Samatex, capable of anticipating fashion
trends, and it is precisely their extraordinary
intuitive ability that has made it one of the
brands of reference for the most important
fashion designers on the international scene.
WWW.SAMATEXSRL.COM

54
ANNAGIULIA
FIRENZE
The team creates the collection
inspired by the iconic men’s
garments worn by the Shelby
family, main characters of the
series, such as jackets, trousers
with pence, coats and contrast
themwith extremely feminine
details such as chiffon shirts
with inlays of laces, organza
w w w . a n n a g i u l i a f i r e n z e . c o m
rouches, gilet lined with lace
and corsets.
Accessories such as the tie,
cup and hat make the styling
even more interesting. The
brand therefore manages to
remain faithful to itself and to
its femininity by experimenting
with fabrics never used before
and expanding its vision. Each
collection takes the title of a
song and for this one the team
is inspired by the British band
Coldplay’s “Ink”. The song, in
addition to its musical and
textual beauty, refers us to the
tattoo, inspiration of this season
© C O U R T E S Y O F A N N A G I U L I A F I R E N Z E
ANNAGIULIA FIRENZE’s new collection is inspired
The brand creates a unique print obtained
Stylistically, the collection follows the Britishmen’s fashion of the 1920s
by the world of Tattoo, an ancient pictorial
decoration technique, already found on mummies
dated 500 b.C., practiced by many populations
for religious, magical or pure embellishment
from the mark of the dyeing of the lace, must
have of the brand, on the fabric with natural
materials and the result is just like a tattoo,
absolutely consistent with ANNAGIULIA’s
staged by the TV series Peaky Blinders, set in Birmingham, devasted
by the first postwar period, where people struggles to survive a deeply
difficult economic and social period. In fact, the palette presents the
colors as always wrapped in a veil of fog. We have cream, powder pink,
INK
COLLECTION
purposes.
feminine and timeless image.
dark raspberry, cloud blue, dusty gray, chocolate, navy blue and black.
PAGE 10 PAGE 11

6
ANDREW GN

ANDREW GN FOR GREAT BARRIER REEFFOUNDATION
w w w . a n d r e w g n . c o m
BOOM!, starring Elizabeth Taylor
and Richard Burton, is a film I have
watched countless times, not so
much for its storyline, rather for
its aesthetics and the spectacular
outfits of Liz Taylor, which served as
my initial inspiration.
The movie was shot in Sardinia, in an
almost all-white house surrounded
by the sea, with an incredible décor
mixing Italian baroque and midcentury
modern.
This SS22 collection also extols the
amazing and irreplaceable beauty
of corals.
Corals are among my utmost
favorite motifs and recurring
themes.
After watching documentaries
about the destruction of coral
reefs, and the huge endeavors
to save them, he wanted to raise
awareness, through the fashion
lens, about the vital importance of
corals for the survival of oceans and
our planet.
PAGE 58 PAGE 59

SAVING
THE CORALS
WATCH
THE VIDEO
HERE
Corals are the trees of the seas, bringing life to the
whole underwater ecosystem. We should treasure,
protect and save them just like we cherish our forests.
This collection is presented in association with the
GREAT BARRIER REEF FOUNDATION, who is doing
a fantastic job at SAVING THE CORALS. We wish
to applaud them for their remarkable actions and
warmly thank them for their support.
THE SURVIVAL
OF OCEANS AND OUR PLANET
C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : A N D R E W G N
P H O T O G R A P H Y : B O N W O N G W A N N A W A T , N I C K S O L A N D
PAGE 60 PAGE 61

2
ANREALAGE
The seed of the Spring-Summer 2022 collection took root two years ago
when designer Kunihiko Morinaga was asked to create the virtual stage
costume for a concert scene in “BELLE” (2021), the soon-to-be-released
animated feature film by Oscar-nominated Japanese director Mamoru
Hosoda.
For this season’s presentation, the duo have reconnected on a new short
movie about a fashion show held in the land of “U”, a computer-generated
universe based on a luminous, futuristic, Japanese megalopolis. A
magical multidimensional space where Anrealage clothes travel through
“U”
two realms, with virtual runway looks materializing in the real world.
FUTURISTIC DIMENSION

The film was presented on the Paris Fashion Week Online platform, followed by a making-of film of the
movie. It will simultaneously be screened on the NTT-owned platform DOOR, where visitors will be able to
enter the Anrealage VR venue as an avatar to watch the show and view the pieces up close in 3D.
One by one, a series of 18 digitally designed, faceted silhouettes explode into fragments and recrystallize
in their real-world incarnations, seemingly stepping out of the screen, from 2D to 3D.
Moving between the physical
and virtual worlds, the live
models and avatars, the eye
wanders through layers of
screens, with the digital visuals
of “U” also projected on the
wall of a white room in which a
physical runway show is taking
place, symbolizing the duality of
two universes as they interlock.
In an age dominated by
screens, an anime character
is captured watching the
show on his smartphone, as
whirring real-time figures
in the corner of the screen
clock up the number
of people following the
event (in the millions). The
polygonal silhouettes are
constructed from triangles
of fabrics made from
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vintage garments or hitech
reflective materials,
mixing signature patchwork constructions and innovative bonding techniques. Matching
platform sandals embellished with the same motifs were designed in collaboration with
United Nude, with dried flower-studded resin jewelry by ANEVER and geodesic dome helmets
completing the looks.
Reclaimed denim in different washes, second-hand chinos, military clothes and vintage trench
coats in a multitude of shades as well as digital floral prints are cut in myriads of triangular shapes
then bonded on cotton or lining fabric, building sculptural, seamless, graphic shapes.
PAGE 64 PAGE 65

THE DUALITY
OF TWO
UNIVERSES
DOOR VR
C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : K U N I H I K O M O R I N A G A
P H : M A S A Y A T A N A K A ( T R O N ) , S E I J I I S H I G A K I
This painstaking process involves up to 500 handapplied
triangles on the bigger pieces.
Powering the collection’s romantic sci-fi mood,
glow-in-the-dark fabrics highlight the angular
structures of the dresses opening the show while
the reflective looks of the finale flash colors, like
digital stars in the night sky. Closing the show on
a high note, the fairy-tale costume worn by Belle,
the film’s heroine, is recreated as a long patchwork
dress in an aurora borealis-colored reflective
material, accessorized with crystal-bead jewelry
and a whimsical, feathery headpiece made from
fresh flowers in its physical version.
From October 12th on the DOOR VR online
showroom, the collection’s digital silhouettes made
using unique and irreplaceable digital data issued
from blockchain technology will be auctioned
as NFTs, exploring the new possibilities and
experiential dimensions in the virtual fashion world
through a cinematic lens.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
PAGE 66 PAGE 67

THE NATURE OF FASHION
IS FAMILY
69
AZ FACTORY

LOVE BRINGS LOVES
TRIBUTE SHOW
BRINGS TOGETHER
THE WORLD OF
FASHION
IN HONOR AND
MEMORY OF
ALBER ELBAZ
Alber’s mantra was always Love Brings
Love. His vision in creating AZ Factory
was to inspire a fashion reset to care, with
emphasis on love, trust and respect.
Before his passing, Alber began working
on a new product story that would pay
tribute to the greatest creative minds in
fashion.
He was inspired by Théâtre de la Mode,
the 1945 Parisian exhibition that brought
together French couturiers as a beautiful
expression of love and solidarity.
In the heart of Paris at the Carreau du
Temple, it is not Alber that paid tribute,
but it was AZ Factory and his beloved
fashion family that honored the legend
with a breathtaking reunion to the man
we lost too soon.
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Talents
celebrating
talent
The AZ Factory design team was joined by 45 fashion
houses and their designers in presenting their personal
homages to Alber. The show opened with Alber’s own
signature design from AZ Factory, the MyBody little
w w w . a z f a c t o r y . c o m
© C O U R T E S Y O F A Z F A C T O R Y
black dress that brings cutting edge knitwear technology
to couture. Next came one look from each participating
house, their own nod to Alber’s legacy, ranging from
ready-to-wear to couture. Finally, the AZ Factory design
studio presented their own homage to their beloved
“Tonight’s celebration for our dear Alber was a magical moment – talents celebrating
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
founder, with 25 looks.
A MAGICAL
MOMENT
PAGE 72 PAGE 73
talent is a remarkable tribute to the man we all loved so much. We are very humbled by
the extraordinary support from all those who participated in the making of the show,
and to all those who were able to join us for this historic night.”
Laurent Malecaze, CEO

ALAIA
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
BALENCIAGA
BALMAIN
AN AMBITIOUS
PROJECT
LOVE
BRINGS
LOVES
In order to pull this ambitious project together, AZ Factory enlisted the help of Alber’s closest collaborators from
his various fashion adventures.
AZ Factory give humble thanks to all the teams and to the participating houses and designers:
BOTTEGA VENETA
BURBERRY
CASABLANCA
CHLOE
ALAÏA – Pieter Mulier
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN – Sarah Burton
BALENCIAGA – Demna Gvasalia
BALMAIN – Olivier Rousteing
BOTTEGA VENETA – Daniel Lee
Nicolas Ghesquière - LOUIS VUITTON
John Galliano - MAISON MARGIELA
Virgil Abloh - OFF-WHITE
Raf Simons - RAF SIMONS
Ralph Lauren - RALPH LAUREN
BURBERRY – Riccardo Tisci
Rick Owens - RICK OWENS
CASABLANCA – Charaf Tajer
Rosie Assoulin - ROSIE ASSOULIN
CHRISTIAN DIOR
CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS
COMME DES GARCONS
DRIES VAN NOTEN
CHLOE – Gabriela Hearst
CHRISTIAN DIOR – Maria Grazia Chiuri
CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS – Christopher John Rogers
COMME DES GARÇONS – Rei Kawakubo
DRIES VAN NOTEN – Dries Van Noten
FENDI – Kim Jones
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI – Giambattista Valli
GIORGIO ARMANI – Giorgio Armani
GIVENCHY – Matthew M. Williams
GUCCI – Alessandro Michele
Chitose Abe - SACAI
Anthony Vaccarello - SAINT LAURENT
Daniel Roseberry - SCHIAPARELLI
Simone Rocha - SIMONE ROCHA
Stella McCartney - STELLA MCCARTNEY
Thebe Magugu - THEBE MAGUGU
Thom Browne - THOM BROWNE
Tomo Koizumi - TOMO KOIZUMI
Pierpaolo Piccioli - VALENTINO
Donatella Versace - VERSACE
GUO PEI – Guo Pei
Guram Gvasalia - VETEMENTS
HERMES – Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski
Viktor Horsting & Rolf Snoeren - VIKTOR & ROLF
IRIS VAN HERPEN in collaboration with ADOBE – Iris Van Herpen
Vivienne Westwood & Andreas Kronthaler - VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER – Jean Paul Gaultier
Grace Wales Bonner - WALES BONNER
FENDI
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVE’
GIVENCHY
LANVIN – Bruno Sialelli
LOEWE - Jonathan Anderson
Glenn Martens - Y/PROJECT
PAGE 74 PAGE 75

RICK OWENS
ROSIE ASSOULIN
SACAI
SAINT LAURENT
VIKTOR & ROLF
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
WALES BONNER
Y PROJECT
MAISON MARGIELA
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
GUCCI
OFF-WHITE
LANVIN
GUO PEI
RAF SIMONS
LOEWE
HERMÈS
RALPH LAUREN
LOUIS VUITTON
IRIS VAN HERPEN
IN HONOR AND MEMORY OF
ALBER ELBAZ
VALENTINO
THEBE MAGUGU
SCHIAPARELLI
VERSACE
THOM BROWNE
SIMONE ROCHA
VETEMENTS
TOMO KOIZUMI
STELLA MCCARTNEY
PAGE 76 PAGE 77

BALENCIAGA
78
Balenciaga’s Summer 22 presentation
consists of two parts: a photocall on a
Hollywood-style red carpet, and a movie
premiere. Guests wearing the new collection
© C O U R T E S Y O F B A L E N C I A G A
pause on the walkway before being ushered
into a theater screening the short film The
Simpsons I Balenciaga.
The Simpsons for Balenciaga is the latest in a
progression of activations that push certain
boundaries set up between fashion and
other forms of entertainment, culture, and
technology, shifting the brand away from an
easily definable category.
A cast consisting of Balenciaga’s friends,
models and team members wearing
the Summer 22 collection are part of
an automatic performance wherein the
premiere event becomes the show itself. Redcarpet
arrivals are documented, setting up a
series of role reversals like in The Simpsons I
Balenciaga where the audience becomes the
protagonists and vice-versa.
The collection represents the complete
Balenciaga palette: a wardrobe of streetwear,
daywear, tailoring, elegant eveningwear and
pret-couture pieces. Silhouettes vary from
ultra-slim to disproportionately oversized.

HOLLYWOOD-STYLE
RED CARPET
W W W . B A L E N C I A G A . C O M
Part of an ongoing collaboration with
Crocs, Hard Crocs turn the soft clog
into a metal-fortified platform with a
cyber goth aesthetic. The Defender
is a new superchunky sneaker with
extreme tire tread. Trompe l’oeil boots
mimic a stiletto sandal worn over a
sock. The Cagole Boot is a footwear
version of the classic studded bag
made in arena leather.
A commitment to responsible production
continues, represented this season with upcycled
denim, leather, fine textiles, and embroidery, as
well as material innovation: plant-based leather is
made from a mix of fibers derived from cactus and
bio polymers. 95.2% of plain and printed fabrics in
the collection are certified sustainable.
The collection includes several accessory debuts
and updates.
The Space Shoe is a highly
innovative single mold alternative
to the classic derby, made entirely
of EVA material. Loafers made
of soft calf become slipperlike,
accentuating the notion of
comfort in a classic men’s shoe.
PAGE 80 PAGE 81

The XX Bag reinterprets the Hourglass silhouette by filling
its negative space and creating a new form. The Triplet
Bag is an interpretation of a classic chain purse, made
with three separate compartments. Looks are completed
TO BE PART OF A
PERFORMANCE
with new eyewear, accessory, and jewelry styles.
BETWEEN FASHION
AND OTHER FORMS OF
ENTERTAINMENT, CULTURE,
AND TECHNOLOGY, SHIFTING
THE BRAND AWAY FROM AN
EASILY DEFINABLE CATEGORY
PAGE 82 PAGE 83
WATCH
THE VIDEO
HERE
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fermentum libero. Praesent nonummy mi in
odio. Nunc interdum lacus sit amet orci. Vestibulum
rutrum, mi nec elementum vehicula, eros Suspendisse
feugiat. Suspendisse enim turpis, dictum
sed, iaculis a, condimentum nec, nisi. Praesent nec
nisl a purus blandit viverra. Praesent ac massa at
ligula laoreet iaculis. Nulla neque dolor, sagittis
eget, iaculis quis, molestie non, velit.

PAGE 84 PAGE 85

PAGE 87
www.samatexsrl.com

PAGE 88 PAGE 89
CIVIDINI.COM

0
An unique vision
BARBARA
BUI
w w w . b a r b a r a b u i . c o m
This film is the story of a meeting of minds:
that of four female artists joining forces to
create a timeless object unhindered by convention.
The designer Barbara Bui, the director
Rosalie Charrier, the writer Line Papin
and the actress Lomane de Dietrich worked
hand in hand to create this inventive project,
each contributing her unique vision.

WATCH
THE VIDEO
HERE
TO CREATE AN INVENTIVE PROJECT
THE POWER OF WORDS
TO TELL A STORY
A history of fashion tinged with emotions that restores the evocative power of
words. A look back on the origins of this film with Barbara Bui and Rosalie Charrier
© C O U R T E S Y O F B A R B A R A B U I
PAGE 92 PAGE 93

RECOVERING THE NAIVETE
BENJAMIN
BENMOYAL
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94
An unique fabrics
After graduating from Central
Saint Martins (where he won the
LVMH Grand Prix Scholarship),
Benjamin Benmoyal, 30 years old
has worked at Alexander McQueen
and Hermes before founding his
namesake label in 2020.
Benjamin Benmoyal is presenting
on the official Paris Fashion Week
calendar since
2021, as well as the FHCM’s
showroom: Sphère.
As a former commando
paratrooper, he wanted to
transcribe in his work the will to
recover the naivete lost during
his military service. Therefore, he
has created very unique fabrics,
woven out of his childhood VHS
and audio cassette tapes.

He has industrialized this weaving technique
and gathered thousands of kilometers
of cassette tapes thanks to the help of
recycling charities as well as by collecting
FOCUS ON
VOLUMES AND DRAPINGS
the dead stocks of factories closed in the
2000s. Benjamin draws inspiration from his
Moroccan origins by focusing on volumes and
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : B E N J A M I N B E N M O Y A L
P H : R A Q U E L S A N N I C O L Á S
drapings from traditional outfits as well as by
weaving colourful striped fabrics reminiscent
of Berber craft and aesthetic.
The huge hats from the SS 2022 Collection
are entirely made out of dried flowers and
inspired by the Shtreimel, a fur hat worn by
Hasidic Jewish men.
THE BERBER CRAFT
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
PAGE 96 PAGE 97

BOTTER
Botter is a menswear label founded by Rushemy
Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh. They design
garments in an elegant way.
They find themselves looking back at their
Caribbean roots. Between Caribbean virility and
femininity lays a very thin layer, men are idle. This
is why their style is elegant.
The use of rare details makes the collections
have a poetic feel.
The collections represent a look into a personal
diary, a look and opinion on the world are being
expressed through their work. They believe this
is important to the relevance of a collection.
9
8
GLOBAL
WARNING
THE USE OF RARE DETAILS
© C O U R T E S Y O F B O T T E R

Rushemy Botter was born on Curaçao
and have lived a big part of his life in
Amsterdam, the Netherlands. He started
His fashion studies in Arnhem at a more
technical school. From there he went to the
Royal academy of The Hague. He knew very
fast that he wanted to follow his studies in
Antwerp. As soon as he got his propedeuse
His Master collection titled ‘FISH OR FIGHT’ won several awards among which: Dries van Noten
award, collection that reflects the most passion for fashion BVBA32 Ann Demeulemeester Award,
most promising collection Flanders DC/UA award, most commercial potential Belmodo Award,
most visionary collection Weekend Knack award, most promising designer In April 2018 the duo
won the Grand Prix of the Festival Hyeres 33. After Hyeres they were finalist for the LVMH Prize
2018. Quickly after this they have been picked up by the Puig group and have been appointed as
Creative Directors for the Ready to wear fashion of Nina Ricci.
Their first collection has been shown during Fashion Week Paris in March 2019.
degree he applied at the Royal Academy of
Fine Arts in Antwerp. He got accepted and
was able to develop his creativity each year
to a next level. He was mentored by Walter
WATCH
THE VIDEO
HERE
van Beirendonck and in his master year by
Dirk van Saene. Along the way he has won
a few awards, in his second academy year
he won the prize of the most promising
student. In his third year he has won the
IFF (International Fragrances & Flavours)
awards and with his bachelor collection the
same year he was picked up by the VFiles
jury and won the VFiles Runway 7 prize.
He presented his collection during New York Fashion Week and got mentored by Jerry Lorenzo, Naomi
Campbell, Mel Ottenberg and Young Thug.
With his Master collection he is launching the Botter brand together with his partner Lisi Herrebrugh, who
has been working together with him on the background during his studies. Lisi is born in Amsterdam and
have lived traveling back and forth between The Netherlands and the Dominican Republic. She is raised
bilingual as her mother is Dominican and her father is Dutch. Rushemy and Lisi have met nine years ago
before their fashion adventure started and had their dreams pointing in the same direction very quickly.
Lisi Herrebrugh have studied at Amsterdam Fashion Institute and graduated Cum Laude. During her
studies she interned at the atelier of Viktor & Rolf, where she developed her technical skills as she worked
on the first Haute Couture collection Viktor & Rolf made after thirteen years of absence on the Couture
calendar.
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Environment hunting as a response to the deep human drive to occupy new spaces,
02
but once inhabited, the mind seeks new obsession. A vicious thirst, that it’s not
physical, yet trapped in the geometrical boundaries of its own building.
Same in clothing, person is looking for something new, unseen, trasformable,
geometrical and minimalist, where comes their SS22 collection.
BOYAROVSKAYA
THE VILLA
w w w . b o y a r o v s k a y a . c o m
C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : M A R I A B O Y A R O V S K A Y A - P L A M E N A K A R A L I Y S K A
P H O T O G R A P H Y : A R T E M K O N O N E N K O

PERSON IS LOOKING
FOR SOMETHING NEW
UNSEEN, TRASFORMABLE
W W W . B O Y A R O V S K A Y A . C O M
WATCH
THE VIDEO
HERE
PAGE 104 PAGE 105

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LAURENT
FERRIER
08
PAGE
108 PAGE 109

The acclaimed Maison LAURENT FERRIER, celebrates its 10th
anniversary with the release of a classical watch featuring a timeless
dial and case ensemble. The Classic Origin Opaline, housed in a sporty
Grade 5 titanium case, upholds the company’s revered standards of
craftsmanship and horological virtue.
Throughout LAURENT FERRIER’s history, the company has produced
several complicated watches, including tourbillons, a minute repeater,
a natural escapement, a dual time or even an annual calendar. In
addition, the Maison has released an array of different case shapes,
including its iconic Classic.
In 2010, the Galet Classic won an award at the prestigious Geneva
Watchmaking Grand Prix (GPHG). This watch was endowed with a
tourbillon and a double balance spring as well as a classic, notably
smooth, round case. This was not an isolated success. Furthermore,
when the brand released additional models, it invariably received
additional accolades. Indeed, LAURENT FERRIER enjoyed further
success at the GPHG in 2015 and 2018, notable recognition for its
various case designs and movements, all conceived in the brand’s
Genevan atelier. These cases and movements continue to endure.
This latest timepiece from LAURENT FERRIER, the Classic Origin
Opaline, is designed for those individuals who value sobriety and
virtue. Created to mark the 10th anniversary of the company, this
latest model is housed in a 40mm classic case and encompasses the
© C O U R T E S Y O F L A U R E N T F E R R I E R
same smooth curving lines as the inaugural model. However, in this
instance, the case is formed of Grade 5 titanium, imbuing the watch
with a youthful temperament. Consistent with the Genevan Maison’s
inclination for uncluttered aesthetics, the Classic Origin Opaline
exhibits a pure appearance. Assegai-shaped hour and minute hands
serenely float above a silvery-white opaline dial. The slate grey dial’s
hour track is marked with burgundy-coloured numerals which prove
highly legible, add a soupçon of sportiness, but remain tastefully
understated.
A small snailed seconds display, featuring a baton- shaped hand is located above 6 o’clock. All three
hands are formed of 18-carat white gold. As previously mentioned, the LAURENT FERRIER Classic case
is constructed of Grade 5 titanium, the first time this lightweight alloy has been used by the company.
Grade 5 titanium is widely used in both the medical field and the aviation industry because of its
impressive array of benefits. It is strong, lightweight, corrosion-resistant and hypoallergenic.
The watch is equipped with the Maison’s iconic ‘Ball-shaped’ crown. Beyond its graceful appearance, the
scale and shape of the crown facilitate ease of adjustment.
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w w w . l a u r e n t f e r r i e r . c h

CECILIE
BAHNSEN
Cecilie Bahnsen´s Spring Summer 2022
collection is a celebration of the love for
craftsmanship and the duality of femininity.
The most practiced and technically refined
collection to date, brought to life through
Cecilie´s artistic collaboration -a sound
installation composed by Okay Kaya and
photo exhibition by Takashi Homma on
view in Paris.
The collection and artistic collaborations
address the duality within us expressed
through an exterior detachment and the
w w w . c e c i l i e b a h n s e n . c o m
gentleness in the sensuality of emotions,
“To be both,” the ability to not “Be” only what
we feel. The duality is present throughout
the collection, film, and exhibition.
The result is an emotional collection that
celebrates Cecilie and the atelier´s love for
A CELEBRATION
OF THE LOVE FOR
CRAFTSMANSHIP
the work, featuring new techniques like the
utterly beauti- ful camellia floral cutoutflowers
fluttering on fabric, as if the petals
were falling gently to the ground from a full
bouquet.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
113

THE GENTLENESS
OF IMPERFECTION,
THE POETRY OF
ASYMMETRY
Exhibited amongst the SS22 collection is the gentleness of imperfection, the poetry of asymmetry.
Beautiful drapes tucked up on one side, an idea coming from the morning bike rides tying the
skirts out of the way with an untethered bow. Looking at Calder´s mobiles, “Drawings in space,”
the uncanny perfect balance of the graceful forms and translating this to the sculptural silhouettes,
evolving from previous seasons. Not trying to control the space the garment inhabits, but celebrating
the every-day elements, the movement, the electricity of how it feels when you put the piece on,
brought to life with couture craftsmanship. The idea of making a collection you want to live in and
dream in- to make your own.
The conceptual motifs play a pivotal role in the collection, translated meticulously across the
different fabrics. Textures completely unique, a touch only recognizable as Cecilie Bahnsen.
Discreet tonal embroidery inspired by the Victorian style of cyanotype printing, the negative
space creating an elevated texture.
C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : C E C I L I E B A H N S E N
P H : L A S S E D E A R M A N J O S E F I N E S E I F E R T P H A S S I S T A N T P E T E R W I L L I A M V I N T H E R
PAGE 114 PAGE 115

117
EMOTIONS AND
MEMORIES OF THE RAISED
RUNWAYS OF THE 1980S
CHANEL
Inspired by the magic of fashion
seen through the photographer’s
lens, the CHANEL Spring-Summer
2022 Ready-to-Wear show evokes
the heightened emotions and
memories of the raised runways
of the 1980s surrounded by
photographers and flashbulbs.
W W W . C H A N E L . C O M
Romantic with a touch of mystery,
the collection balances the
graphic purity of black and white,
playful summer stripes, and the
dark whimsy of a butterfly’s wings
on black chiffon.

AN ICONIC
CATWALK
THE INTIMATE
RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN
THE PHOTOGRAPHER
AND THE MODEL:
A RELATIONSHIP
LAGERFELD CHERISHED
RECREATING
THE RUNWAY
ENERGY
PAGE 118 PAGE 119

LOVING FLASHBULBS
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : V I R G I N I E V I A R D
© C O U R T E S Y O F C H A N E L
PAGE 122 PAGE 121

22
CHLOÉ
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : G A B R I E L A H E A R S T
© C O U R T E S Y O F C L O E ’
ENVIRONMENTAL
ACTIONS
“Of all the worn, smudged, dog-eared words in our vocabulary, “love” is surely the
grubbiest, smelliest, slimiest. Bawled from a million pulpits, lasciviously crooned
through hundreds of millions of loudspeakers, it has become an outrage to good
taste and decent feeling, an obscenity which one hesitates to pronounce. And yet it
has to be pronounced; for, after all, Love is the last word.” – Aldous Huxley (1894–1963)
“It’s all about Love.”
Gabriela Hearst, Creative Director at Chloé
This season, Chloé introduces Chloé
Craft. They believe luxury fashion has
become overly industrialized, so the
Maison is expanding the number of their
products handcrafted by independent
artisans. They are embossing all of
these products with a signature spiral
symbol. Chloé Craft seeks to pioneer new
levels of traceability and transparency
in the industry and establish a deeper
connection between consumers and
local producers. These techniques
cannot be mimicked by machinery , only
mastered by the human hand.
While Chloé Craft is innately low impact,
the challenge is to find ways of making
the items produced in larger quantities
more eco-conscious. This season the
design of Chloé staples such as their
Tote bag , Nama sneakers and denim
have been improved to incorporate more
recycled and lower impact materials
while preserving their highest standard
of quality.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

They have worked to limit the environmental impact
of their Summer 2022 collection by increasing their use
of lower impact materials ( up to 58 % of the collection
vs 40% in Winter 2021 , vs 55% on Spring 2022 ).
The list of what they consider as lower impact materials
is available on Chloe.com and was previously approved by
external experts. For example, more than 50% of the wool
they use is “lower impact”* and they continue to promote
THE ITEMS ECO -CONSCIOUS
the use of deadstock materials
for fabrics and embellishments.
*The wool used in these
products comes from a farm
that respects animal welfare and
maintains soil health, protects
biodiversity and promotes
native species or from a recycled
wool. Dresses are adorned with
metal talismans sourced from
dead-stock jewelry findings and
components.
Stripes are hand-painted on
cashmere and voile in various
shades of vegetable-based blue
dye. Multi-colored up-cycled
fabrics leftover from previous
collection are shredded, knotted
and macramed by hand into
new garments. Leather ribbon
is whip-stitched by hand around
the edges of garments, framing
them with a touch of handicraft.
Hand-cut vegetable dyed
leather is patchworked into a
dynamic composition taken
directly from one of Gabriela’s
drawings.
Another of her drawings comes
to life as a series of suede forms
floating in a handcrocheted
web.
MULTI
COLORED
UP-CYCLED
FABRICS
PAGE 124 PAGE 125
THE
HIGHEST
STANDARD
OF QUALITY
Multicolor hand-crocheted scallops cover the surface
of a signature wingedsilhouette knitted dress.
Found seashells are hand-woven into necklaces made
with dead-stock Chloé fabrics from previous seasons,
interspersed with gemstones as described below.
The gemstones found throughout the collection are
all naturally sourced.

Their individual properties are as follows:
Grey Agate Supports one in feeling grounded
and balanced. Brings stability in times of
change.
Amethyst Protects you from negative energy.
Enhances your intuition and psychic abilities.
Apatite Helps soothe the nervous system and
maintain inner balance. Enhances psychic
awareness and opens the mind to insight and
inspiration.
Calcite Revitalizes and works to clear blockages
in the body’s energy systems.
Carnelian Activates the first three chakras and
provides a powerful boost to your willpower.
Gold stone Assists in attaining goals. Reduces
tension, revitalizes the wearer and encourages
a positive attitude.
Labradorite Facilitates awareness of multiple
layers of reality at the same time
Lapis Lazuli Activates psychic abilities and
intuition
Obsidian Activates the root chakra and
grounds you in your connection to the Earth.
Clears the aura of negative energy.
Sodalite Stimulates the mind and
consciousness to enhance intuition, creativity
and the powers of analysis and observation.
W W W . C L O E . C O M
SOCIAL ACTIONS
OCEAN SOLE
The soles of our new Chloé Lou line
are made in collaboration with OCEAN
SOLE, a social enterprise that upcycles
flip-flops, which have been collected
and found washed-up along the
beaches and waterways in Kenya.
Each piece is made with care as OCEAN
SOLE artisans collect the washedup
flip-flops and clean them before
shaping the material.
More than 150 full-time employees and
flip-flop suppliers work with OCEAN
SOLE to give plastic waste a second,
more longlasting life.
Their aim is to recycle a million flip flops
a year and at least one ton of styrofoam
a month. OCEAN SOLE supports over
1,200 Kenyans through the employment
and collection of flip flops.
They provide health care and have
educated more than 12,000 students
THE PROPERTIES
OF THE PRECIOUS STONES
USED IN THE COLLECTION
PAGE 126 PAGE 127
about conservation.
So far they have put over 200 children
through school with their wages,
payment for flip-flop supplies and
scholarships.

28
THE POWER OF
MOTHER NATURE
The Christian Wijnants Spring - Summer
2022 collection connects the power
CHRISTIAN
WIJNANTS
of mother nature with the desire for
purity. Inspired by the healing powers
of nature, the collection conveys a time
for breathing new life into adaptation
and connection.
The sound of the sea where the
waves crash against the rocks, up and
down, strong and weak. The sound of
birdsongs signaling that spring has
sprung.
The whispering sound of wind in trees
and rustling leaves.
Creating Spring/Summer 2022
brought Wijnants on a spiritual quest
for a deeper sense of humanity and
inner beauty, forming an emotional
collection that is both sensual and
contented with simplicity.
A vibrant assortment of free-flowing silhouettes and volume, drapey pieces to wear as you wish, fluid
dresses, bold linen suiting, crochet handmade pieces inspired by spiderwebs.
The idea of tying a silk scarf as a halter-neck dress or top. The color palette is strong and bold, colorful yet
neutral. Dynamic hues of tangerine, white, purple, bronze, gray, blue, lilac, beige, and forest green mixed
in together. Floral prints painted on silk reflect a blurry impression of an undefined flower.
Light and transparent fabrics are used throughout for ease and comfort. Spring/Summer 2022 is a dialogue
with mother nature that brings that same ease and energetic sensuality that is both powerful and subtle.
It is charged with intimacy and purity, combined with strength, respect and love.
This feeling of freedom suggests individuality to live through one’s instinct and personal will, a homage to
effortless sophistication and an experimental mutiny against excess.
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : C H R I S T I A N W I J N A N T S
P H : D A V I D P A I G E
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WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : M I R I A M & P I E R O C I V I D I N I
© C O U R T E S Y O F C I V I D I N I
130
CIVIDINI
THE LEITMOTIV OF THE NEW SS 22 COLLECTION BY
CIVIDINI IS THE CONTRAST:
MEASURED, DISCREET AND DECISIVE ELEGANCE, INSPIRED
NOT BY FASHION BUT BY STYLE.
Aesthetic, Contrasts, Rigorous and minimal DESIGN
LIVE IN CONTRASTS
Cividini and fashion, its consequent expression, live in
contrasts: this concept is the basis of the new Cividini
collection for next Spring Summer 2022.
On the catwalk was clothes designed according to
the philosophy of aesthetic contrast, a concentrate of
creativity and manufacturing of the highest quality,
distinctive trait of the real Made in Italy, capable
of bringing together fine and contrasting artisan
elements in balance: the built opposes the minimal ,
narrow to wide, short to long and casual to tailoring,
creating a harmonious aesthetic fusion.

SUPERLATIVE-QUALITY CRAFTSMANSHIP
Cividini once again proposes superlative-quality
craftsmanship clothing, created to last over time,
according to a sustainable vision, expression of a
refined, clean and modern design, without ever
losing the most genuine tradition of craftsmanship:
a practical, essential and sophisticated wardrobe,
able to grasp current events and contemporaneity
in his choices.
Wide trousers with double loop position
to be worn Buggy or Regular depending
on where you put on the belt with the
minimal silk shirt are opposed to the
double cotton shorts with high turn-up
and silk T-shirt with ramage design made
with the stencil.
The linen dress with small handkerchief
sleeves and pleats with slit on the front in
contrast to the high gauge cotton dress
with a cubic weave and “labyrinth” scroll
design.
A CHIC STYLE
WITH A RELAXED
URBAN LOOK
PAGE 132 PAGE 133
And again the dress in viscose jersey and
devoré polyamide with floral motif plays
with full and empty spaces, while the
asymmetrical cotton sweater with stylized
floral inlays is combined with the calflength
skirt with free pleats and central
closure with snaps. The double cotton
pea coat with patch pockets and flap
finds its natural combination with shorts
in the same material, for a relaxed but
urban look, and the vaguely military-style
double-breasted duster is combined with
the knee-length skirt with pleat and slit
and shirt in linen net in all white version.

FABRICS
The accessories give a chic touch: bags,
belts and sneakers made with natural
cowhide leathers and woven straw, as
well as hand-woven leather rattles.
There are many fabrics: from cotton to
linen, from tulle to jersey, from viscose
to silk, from stretch wool crepe to
linen canvas with a malted effect, from
pinstripe cotton to that with Vichy and
Prince of Wales design.
Color is not renounced: optical white
and cream predominate, as opposed to
charcoal, sugar paper and khaki.
Palazzina Appiani, Napoleon’s residence, was the grandstand that made frame the digital presentation
of the new Spring Summer 2022 collection by Cividini: the goal was to make you immerse yourself
in a sumptuous environment, with neoclassical beauty and without time, as well as timeless are its
designs, a continuous reference to the noble Italian textile tradition.
The grandstand designed by the Canonica is a real jewel, with simple and linear shapes, surrounded by
the greenery of the largest park in Milan, with a privileged view of the civic arena, which fits perfectly
with the royal charm of the maison Cividini that brought to the catwalk pieces ennobled by a knowhow
capable of crossing the seasons and of always being absolutely modern, the result of the refined
taste of the designers and craftsmanship mixed with modern technology.
THE NOBLE
ITALIAN TEXTILE
TRADITION
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PAGE 134 PAGE 135
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

COPERNI
The Spring-Summer 2033 collection is an
expression of a near future, not a futuristic
science fiction but rather what we shall hope and
dream for. A contrast with the ode to the night
of the Autumn Winter Drive-in show, this season
represents the light as a ballad to the sun. During
extraordinary moments of consciousness, our
senses of time and self are altered; we may even
feel time and self dissolving.
The collection is a tribute to a powerful nature.
Fields of beautiful, fragrant and thrilling hemp,
the fastest growing plant on earth, the good,
the healthy, and the sustainable medicinal
substance of the cannabis leaves. A balm for
bodies and minds.
Prints and materials are a reminder of nature.
With their psychedelic shapes and oddness, such
as the shells, they are taking us to unexpected
places.
A patchwork print depicting the sun alongside
a skull, a funny cartoon, the image of a woman
meditating, or a scary sea creature, are printed
on a precious silk chiffon proving the ambiguity
that permeates the collection.
Continuing with the series of Coperni’s
technology inspired accessories, the new
Origami bag is inspired by the iPhone photos
app icon but is also a reminder of the subtle
floral theme.
137
AN EXPRESSION
OF A NEAR
FUTURE
Fantasying can be good for those who want to
escape from reality : it means daydreaming and
illusion. It takes us to some trips that will provide
freedom and happiness.
When the states of consciousness are altered,
the mind becomes clearer, the creation becomes
wider, and dreams are possible.
The classic Swipe bag is melting in an altered
state, as an homage to the Melting Clock of
Salvador Dali. Denim cargo pants, long skirts,
baggy shorts and Cowboy boots are coated
with an iridescent effect that offer a futuristic
exploration with sensory promises. The lowwaist
pants and crop tops are a clear reference to the
2000’s aesthetic and embody a teenage-flavored
uniform.
Deconstructed tailored jackets, pants and skirt
are envisioned with removable suspenders
that always expose the shoulders and play with
the norms. The cut-out jacket can be worn in
several possible ways, enhancing the possibility
of exploring different styles, always keeping a
feeling of casual elegance.

A TRIBUTE TO A
POWERFUL NATURE
PSYCHEDELIC
SHAPES
PAGE 138 PAGE 139

Fantasying can
be good for those
who want to
escape
from reality:
it means day
dreaming
and illusion.
It takes us
to some
trips
that will
provide
freedom and
happiness
In this psychedelic yet inviting atmosphere,
Coperni introduces the cocooning dresses
and tops, which, with their hand embroidered
sequins and beads, envelope the body in a
meditative state, a recomforting self-hug.
The futuristic sunglasses are a teaser to what’s
yet to come for Coperni.
For the first time, Coperni designs a jewelry
collection in collaboration with Alan Crocetti
in which the Coperni’s signature Swipe shape
is redesigned into silver Swipe rings and
earrings. Anklets, rings and necklaces are
adorned with colorful eyes and the escapularios
are a continuity with the fantasy world that
submerges the collection.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
PAGE 140 PAGE 141

A FANTASY WORLD
SUBMERGES
THE COLLECTION
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : S É B A S T I E N M E Y E R , A R N A U D V A I L L A N T
P H : L U C A T O M B O L I N I
F U T U R I S T I C S H A P E S E S
W W W . C O P E R N I P A R I S . C O M
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COURRÈGES
BOTH OF US
KNOWING
After the club «La Station» in Aubervilliers last March,
the monumental Courrèges white square lands on
September 29, 2021 in a new party place: the Bois
de Vincennes in Paris. A park on the edge of the
city where many free parties have taken place in
recent years. The square, stripped of its walls, is here
soberly signified on the ground with paint*, taking
nature as a decor.
At the origin of this collection, and for this second
show, a memory: it is in this clearing that Nicolas Di
Felice and his friend Erwan Sene - with whom he
composed the soundtrack of the show, danced all
night long a few summers ago.
A moment of grace that inaugurated many others:
These memories of jubilation have fed a
collection designed around the festival wear.
In line with what was initiated by Nicolas Di
notably the
reunion with his boyfriend after the
Felice, the archetypes of the counterculture
lockdown, when the Bois de Vincennes was one
are mixed here subtly to the vocabulary of
of the
only places where youth could still party
Courrèges - all with an atelier know-how.
44
together. «Both of us knowing», by invoking these
times of friendship dear to Nicolas Di Felice,
pays homage to these moments of intimacy that,
sometimes, crowds experience in unison. A way for
Courrèges to show its desire to be one with its public.
Thus, the capes start with an extremely simple
and geometric pattern (inspired by a round
cape from 1968, a triangular one from 1969 and
a square one from 1995) with a cutting detail
to build the shoulder.

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The proportions have been exaggerated to
completely cover the body or for cuddling
together underneath. Parkas and bombers come
into dialogue with heritage coats and trapeze
skirts.
The «Loop» theme, crisscrossing yokes of fabric
found on bras, dresses, skirts, baggy pants and
even on the handles of this season’s «Loop» bag,
THE VOCABULARY
OF COURRÈGES
was inspired by the straps of a 1976 Courrèges
dress (the first piece in Nicolas Di Felice’s personal
collection, acquired years earlier).
Fabrics and prints continue to reinvent heritage,
like this trompe-l’oeil ribbed knit made from
strips of mirrored vegetal vinyl or these diagonal
stripes taken from a 1968 chevron stripe.
LOOP THEME
PAGE 146 PAGE 147
WATCH
THE VIDEO
HERE

A FORM
OF PURISM
AT THE HEART
OF COURRÈGES
PALETTE
COLORS
Silver, azure blue, pink (André Courrèges’ favorite
color, a symbol of tenderness and optimism), pale
yellow and ochre: a palette that subtly suggests the
world of techno and punctuates a collection with an
assumed minimalism.
Like these «scarf» dresses in transparent pleated
mesh, composed of two rectangles of fabric and
attached by two triangles.
Or the last three dresses, each made of a simple
strip of fabric, like for the girls wrapped in a piece
of vinyl for a 1963 fashion show and immortalized by
Irving Penn.
«Both of us knowing» claims a form of purism at
the heart of Courrèges and dear to Nicolas Di Felice.
To better revive the feelings.
PAGE 148 PAGE 149

Daniele
Ancarani
In English we say to put oneself
in someone’s shoes to express the
unique vantage point afforded by
the perspective that anchors each
of us to our human condition.
We are all torn between Apollonian
forces which lift us up to the
heavens, and the Dionysian force
which root us in place.
The tension between the abstract
and the concrete, the ethereal and
the mundane, finds no better expression than in shoes. It is an existential dilemma: our personal integrity
must necessarily find expression in unique spatial grounding. The feet of clay in Nabuchadnezzar’s
dream signal a lack of purpose, as fatal a flaw in biblical times as it is today. Daniele Ancarani is
inspired by this archaic dualism, designing and producing shoes that are expressions of rare beauty
AN EXPRESSIONS OF
RARE BEAUTY
and bearers of archaic philosophical tension.
151

His footwear serves the needs of physical
mobility, while expressing a joyful standard
of beauty echoing the modernist challenge
of gravitation force. His shoes are solid, of
obvious comfort, but light and airy. At times
the daring lines suggest the suspension of our
physical limitations, an architecture whose
oblique lines defy gravity. This is no leaning
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : D A N I E L E A N C A R A N I
© C O U R T E S Y O F D A N I E L E A N C A R A N I
tower, but a deconstructivist creation with solid
foundations.
The images of his muse, Drusilla Foer, represent
his FW2021 collection magnificently, in a
balance between the aristocratic and the downto-earth.
The photographs and videos which
launch the collection are refined expressions
of context: real people in real places, with the
tactile pleasure of real surfaces, from finely
veined chestnut doors to the refined sheen of
polished stone. Context is queen, we might say:
all things exist in place.
These refined expressions of Italian artisanship
link the wearer to the soil while elevating them
to the highest planes of human refinement. A
genealogy of talent takes us from the garçonne
look of Coco Chanel, to the exquisite femininity
of Christian Dior, down through the bold
modernity of Mary Quaint. Daniele Ancarani
carries forward this daring tradition with
personality and verve.
Gregory Overton Smith
D.Phil. Oxford
Temple University Rome
THE EXPRESSIONS
OF ITALIAN
ARTISANSHIP
PAGE 154 PAGE 153

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Dawei offers a wardrobe for women who
want to express their personality, with a
159
contemporary luxury silhouette that can
be worn at any age.
Dawei’s design can be seen in the choice
DAWEI
of noble materials, structured silhouettes
C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : D A W E I S U N
P H O T O G R A P H Y : Y A N N I S V L A M O S
and freedom of expression, for a new
modern luxury based on the know-how of
French Couture.
A graduate of the ecole de la Chambre
Syndicale de la Couture in Paris, Dawei
quickly joined the studios of major fashion
houses with Balenciaga and John Galliano.
In 2010, he and his friend launched the
ready-to-wear brand Belle Ninon, the creative
duo was then hired as Artistic Director
of the Cacharel house.
In 2016, he created his eponymous brand
Dawei alone.
In 2019 Dawei entered the official fashion
calendar and he was nominated as one of
the finalists for the Andam Fashion Award.
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WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

160
DICE KAYEK
C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : E C E E G E
P H : K E V I N L A R R E G U Y
For its Spring Summer22 collection film, Dice Kayek
teams up with long-standing collaborator, the
masterful director Marie Schuller.
Fashioning a new facet of its cinematic storytelling,
they stage this luminous collection as a fantastical
thriller, set in the vast estate of an 18th century
French castle - the Chateau d’Aunoy.
In the aftermath of worldwide confinement, it is a
celebration of freedom and compassion, a riveting
reverie empowered by the wonders of Nature.

This effervescent collection evolves Dice Kayek’s exploration of historical details through classic items of
the contemporary wardrobe. Impeccable poplin shirting is trimmed with peek-a-boo lace, silk mikado
sculpts tailoring staples with polished precision, occasional crinolines giving midi dresses a dramatic
twist. The silhouettes culminate in a romantic blend of 18th century inspired shirting and 70’s volumes
and accessories, complete with psychedelic prints. Swathed in this modern interpretation of court dress,
this season’s woman is reminiscent of a wayward aristocrat, flushed by the crisp country air.
AN EFFERVESCENT COLLECTION
The film opens on a seemingly idyllic scene, four girls roam free
in a labyrinthic castle and its wild English garden, relishing in the
beauty of its bounty. We soon become aware of a looming presence
haunting their every move, trapping them in a nightmarish loop
they can’t seem to escape….In a sudden, synergetic motion they face
this faceless foe, revealing the strong, fearless - and heavily armed
fighters they actually are. In stark contrast with their immaculate
clothes and angelic features, their hunt proves to be as fierce and
feral as the monster itself. A fantastical tale of faux semblants, it
disguises a message of courage and acceptance in the folds of a
lavish fairytale, in a moment where our reality is most in need of
them.
The film will be airing online on Saturday, October 2nd, at 10.00 am
(cet) on fhcm.com, on dicekayek.com and Dice Kayek Instagram.
w w w . d i c e k a y e k . c o m
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WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

The disaster is coming for you , again.
Just because we’re out of the woods with COVID-19,
Living in this uncharted, uncertain reality is what
DIDU wanted to explore in this new collection,
we flow into the future unseen, our vision evolves
and so too does the landscape, turning into the
doesn’t mean that we’re good. Social issues are still
with its cowboy accents and liquid silhouettes,
unfamiliar and the anticipatory. This too is our last
THE LAST DANCE OF LIFE
here. The climate emergency is still here. What we did
to the planet is still here.
Let’s be real. No matter what we do, even with the
most stringent restrictions, we won’t be able to revert
entirely what our species has done. There’s only one
solution: to have a positive attitude and try to find the
silver lining.
We, humans, are the ones who got ourselves into this
mess, but we can’t just shrug off the consequences
and think “Life’s a beach then you die”.
We have to be an active part of the solution. Almost-certain
doom is no reason to give up. We put
out best foot forward and reach back into the past to
save what remains.
That’s why they used the lightweight technical fabrics
often used in bathing suits in the collection. As
we adapt to this new reality, so does our wardrobe,
which becomes sophisticated from items once seen
as casual.
There is a new elegance in these times, where structure
and tailoring are less constraint than complement
to the body, outlining what needs to be seen,
hiding what mustn’t. Skin becomes a fabric too, seen
164DIDU
WATCH
and played with through openings and transparencies.
w w w . d i d u - o f f i c i a l . c o m
where textiles cling and flow against the body. Like dance with life, our last connection to a nature we
water. Like time. As a sign of adaptability, lacing no longer feel around us and a future that may not
and closures are decorative as they are practical. exist. It is a wish projected into the abyss, hoping
Denim, often seen in their collections, returns here to just emerge on the other side with no other
to express the nobility of utility, again a collision of expectation that being alive.
before and now.
For the first time, DIDU was presented on the
The video likewise takes us into the kind of place official Paris Fashion Week schedule, an event that
only a metropolis of the future like Shanghai can marks a new chapter for the brand. The proof that
invent: a ranch on a rooftop, horses rearing up even when things are dire, the world can still be
against the open skies between the buildings. As your oyster.
THE VIDEO HERE
© C O U R T E S Y O F D I D U

DIOR167
These
These silhouettes reveal cuts and
graphic effects transposed in
yellow, green, red, blue, orange
and raspberry, like a co/gold block
that revisits the aesthetics of Mare
Bohan.
colors also symbolize the spatial
geometries at the heart of the games
devised by artist Anna Paparatti to question
the rules of art and life. Maria Grazia Chiuri
was inspired by her singular looks and
wanted her to conceive the setting of the
fashion show as a “game of the absurd”
reflecting the spirit of her various works.
(Anna Paparatti was inspired by her various
creations on the subject of God, such as
her work Le Jeu du non-sens).
NONSENSE
The imagination of this Dior spring-summer 2022
ready-to-wear collection is fuelled by curiosity,
desire and research. It is built around a network
of connections: Maria Grazia Chiuri explores the
long period in Dior’s history when Mare Bohan was
artistic director of the Maison. More specifically,
she highlights the S/im Look collection, conceived
in 1961, of which the press wrote: “It completely
changes fashion, just as the New Look did in 1941”.
(Extract from L’Aurore of 27
January 1961, quoted in the book
Dior by Mare Bohan, published by
Assouline, 2018.)
Maria Grazia Chiuri thus
approaches the early 1960s to
sketch the shapes of change
and trace a new lexicon in our
pandemic-torn society.

A NETWORK OF CONNECTIONS
Reinvented jackets with boxy cuts, refined coats,
skirts, shorts, dresses, all these pieces are combined
in multiple ways.
Some of the designs are made with 3D embroidery
and are enriched by a structured visual effect.
Materials such as scuba and nylon reinterpret
volumes, revolutionising the look of the woman
wearing them.
Models to shine in clubs, reminiscent of the
legendary Roman nightclub, the Piper Club, a huge
and colourful place, an emblem of freedom
A laboratory experimenting with the arts and fashions
without prejudice, offering unique creativity - like the
Palace of Paris -, a place where artists, philosophers, muses
and actors, among others, mingled. In an absolutely new
and unexpected context, like this collection, embodied
by Anna Paparatti’s Il gioco del nonsense. Nonsense, as
Susan Stewart writes, is “perfect, pure, a blank surface of
meaning whose every movement invites reflection”. (Dans
/’ouvrage Nonsense: Aspects of lntertextuality in Folklore
and Literature,aux éditions Johns Hopkins University Press,
1979).
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DIOR PRET-À-PORTER PRINTEMPS-ÉTÉ 2022
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : M A R I A G R A Z I A C H I U R I
© C O U R T E S Y O F D I O R
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WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
PAGE 170 PAGE 171

173
JAQUET DROZ
BIRD REPEATER
“300TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION”:
A HISTORICAL EDITION PAYING
HOMAGE TO
THE BIRTHPLACE
OF SWISS
WATCHMAKING

Issued in eight pieces to celebrate the 300th anniversary of the founder Pierre Jaquet-
Droz, the Bird Repeater, an automaton with a minute repeater, embodies the essence
of the House. Its dial in white mother-of-pearl and black onyx features appliqués in
18K red gold. Multiple bird animations, eggs hatching and the river in the background
breathe life into this creation. This weave of intricate animations, completely engraved
and painted by hand, resonates with a minute repeater, which is housed at the heart of
its 18K red gold case in 47mm, one of fine watchmaking’s most virtuoso complications.
In 2012, Jaquet Droz revolutionized wristwatches by creating the Bird Repeater
collection. These Haute Horlogerie innovations are the culmination of all the House’s
Ateliers d’Art techniques in a single piece, combining traditional watchmaking aesthetic
with their one-of-a-kind automaton expertise, in the same movement. In short, this
watch displays the Jaquet Droz quintessence and three centuries of heritage, in a
single resolutely contemporary creation.
For this anniversary edition, Jaquet Droz returns to the theme of nature to animate its
automatons. In the foreground are two robins, one male and one female, like those that
can be seen and heard all around the Swiss Valleys, known for their song and proximity
to mankind. In the background, to the right, is a farmhouse. However, it’s not just any
farmhouse: it’s a replica of the farmhouse where Pierre Jaquet-Droz was born exactly
300 years ago. This historical nod is coupled with a verdant valley and river flowing
through it on the left. Again, there is no room for doubt - this is La Ronde, encircling
the La Chaux-de-Fonds valley. There is also a Gentian flower in the foreground, whose
especially fine wood grain is used by watchmakers for the ultimate polishing of their
components. The plant is also used for its medicinal values and alcoholic beverages
that have contributed to the region’s success.
Left, right and center, the natural characteristics of La Chaux-de-Fonds are present: red
berries and holly leaves, a blue butterfly announcing the arrival of summer and other
animals hidden in the scene. A dragonfly can also be spotted, a symbol of strength and
fighting spirit, a grasshopper is also featured, whose powerful leap forward embodies
risk-taking, the ability to seize opportunities and move oneself forward, much like
Jaquet Droz does today, while drawing on three centuries of heritage to move forward
in the 21st century built on art and wonders.
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A SYMBOLIC OF A NEW BEGINNING AND COLOURFUL ABANDON
INSPIRATION
A festival of love.Joy shared. An explosion of bold
colour and emotion. The Holi festival in India, awash
in vivid pigments, symbolic of a new beginning and
colourful abandon. Open arms to our return to joy.
One heart beats of many parts.A wide spectrum
from the loud and audacious to the whispering
and intimate. When vivid and pulsating passion
explodes. Euphoric and trippy, pulling focus
on a dilated view on life. The familiar becomes
mysterious and exotic as images blur. The collective
energy and joy of a rowdy audience, fireworks, pop
& rock concerts, burning man.
DRIES VAN
NOTEN
BRING THE PASSION
AND JOY!
LET THE PARTY BEGIN!
177

THE POWER OF THE FASHION
A continuation in our homage to the power of the fashion editoria! with a fashion
shoot by Rafael Pavarotti and film by Albert Moya.
Bring the passion and joy!
Let the party begin!
FORM
A new lithe and sculptural silhouette for
this season. Fitted shapes emphasise
the body- more sculptural. Loose DVN
structured staples in daring colours. Many
references to couture, a fitted skirt, in hand
made smocking, opens in a wide volant.
Layering muslin of many tones, a nod to
the nineties. Exaggerated balloon sleeves
and dresses.
Much smocking, ruching and plisse.
Diaphanous shapes, feather light and
floating. Halter dresses, caftans, and a nod
to the intimacy of lingerie
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PAGE 178 PAGE 179

COLOURS
FABRICS
All variations possible, from the masculine,
weighty and dry to the light and fluffy. Textures
brings suppon and definition to colour
choices. The art of hand stitched smocking is
pushed to its limits creating sculptural shapes
and shaping a new silhouette. A wide panoply
of textiles builds the story this season, the
techniques of producing jacquards are challenged
further and seem even embossed,
wool gabardine, cotton taffeta, photo-printed
silks, silk mousseline and pongee evoke
the first Dries an Noten collection and that
of 1996-97, textured polyesters, Retro swimsuit
ruching, Classic cotton poplin, voiles and
drills, the transparency and structure of transparent
polyesters in green and reds. Velvet for
garments and accessories.
Powerful, strong, pigmented, saturated.Technical and elaborate bring depth and
dimension to colours. Traditional rules of association are abandoned and ignored.
chartreuse, ali hues of yellow from imperial to florescent, orange, blues from electric,
neon to royal and baby, purple, mint, turquoise, chocolate taupe, fuchsia, cloque
with stripes in black.
PAGE 180 PAGE 181

Big colourful stains replicate being doused with pigment at the Holi festival in India. The
experience ofblurred photography of night scenes of Antwerp & beyond- from the “Chiquita
building “to the Centrai Station are shared with the last men’s collection. Blurring photographs
of the familiar brings imagery to a trippy, more abstract, and universal dimension: explosive
ACCESSORIES
Pearls and beads are fixed to form patterns and motifs, bring dimension to fabric prints and
embellish accessories.When applied to sheer fabrics, arms seem covered in pearls and other-
worldly. Shoes range from a traditional man’s style, sporty puffy sandals to super high platform
wedges in vibrant and classic colours from playful pastels to blacks and navy.
fireworks, blurred flower prints as a conduit for joy.
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : D R I E S V A N N O T E N
P H : R A F A E L P A V A R O T T I
PRINT & EMBELLISHMENT
An arial photograph of a massive crowd printed in repeat replicates tweed, A small club, hard
rock band. the audience caught in a red spotlight. Friend’s sit around a dinner table, trompe
l’a:il embroidery and multi multi colour beading, magnified pixelated images of flowers
become abstracted motifs. Images of hand knot nets become diamond motifs.
PAGE 182 PAGE 183
AN UNIVERSAL
DIMENSION
WATCH
THE VIDEO
HERE

Sab Shoes SRL, a family-run company based in
Segromigno in Monte, was born in 1969 from the
idea of the founders, Antonio and his wife Bruna. The
experience transmitted through generation moved
the firm under the control of Andrea, Claudia,
Chiara and Stefano that from 2008 are involve di
the application of artisan know-how with industriai
production. This mindset bring them through
collaborations with big and famous brand of the
fashion system and Massimiliano, new partner
of the firm. By their skills and professionalism
they have expanded the organizational structure
introducing a creative office with which they have
been worki ng for some years now. Sab Shoes,
by the creative attitude introduced, has ventured
into the birth of a new brand of women’s footwear,
which re sponds to only one philosophy: Classic
with Twist.
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : A L B E R T O M A T E R A
© C O U R T E S Y O F C L A S S I C O C O N T W I S T
184
w w w . s a b s h o e s . i t

SPLENDOR
IN THE SUN
ELIE SAAB
In forever search of thrill and picturesque, a A colorful horizon, in gradients of orange,
new generation of women is boldly initiated red, lime and orion blue, cascades into soft
into the contemporary cosmopolitan with ELIE ruffling, long flowing silk georgette that wrap
SAAB Ready-to-Wear Spring/Summer 2022. Their into revealing knotted necklines and oneshoulder
dresses. Jumpsuits and mini long-
wardrobes overflow with light, effortless and
sophisticated style that attractively carry them sleeve cocktail dresses dazzle in blazing red
on their extravagant voyages through fantastical and coral sequin swirls, while verdant floral
splendor and attractive landscapes.
patterns naturally bloom through fresh white
Classically feminine silhouettes are made exciting, crepe and chiffon. The collection is made to suit
relaxed and versatile in vibrant, pulsating colors
86
and easy-moving, plush materials. Monogram fever
takes over in a print pants suit, a delicate yarnembroidered
accent bomber jackets, and an airy
macramé knit dress.
capricious whims, effortlessly moving from day
to night with just a subtle change of attitude
and an accessory or two.
A daywear elegant plissé printed skirt is easily
paired with a structured crop top.
T H E E X T R A V A G A N T V O Y A G E S T H R O U G H F A N T A S T I C A L S P L E N D O R

For more semi-formal fun, a black jumpsuit with cady
fringes, gold metal accents and shoes and a bag to match,
or a gabardine castle wall beige skirt with a thigh high slit
and tucked in ELIE SAAB logo embroidered jersey t-shirt.
Flowery shorts, halter and wrap tops have a casual-chic
appeal as do safari-inspired sahara taupe mini dresses.
Intricately woven textures daringly flirt with translucent
forms in the couturier’s quintessential beaded gowns in
effervescent pops of vigorous color.
A CASUAL-CHIC APPEAL
PAGE 188 PAGE 189
MOVING
FROM DAY
TO NIGHT

A NEW GENERATION
OF WOMEN
CLASSICALLY FEMININE
SILHOUETTES
ELIE SAAB Ready-to-Wear Spring/Summer 2022 brings the elegant boho-chic of the carefree seventies
to the present moment by creating fresh, effortless looks that appeal to refined youthful hearts.
This collection is for every woman exquisitely dressed for any escapade that meets her path.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
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PAGE 190 PAGE 191
THE ELEGANT BOHO-CHIC OF THE CAREFREE SEVENTIES
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : E L I E S A A B
© C O U R T E S Y O F E L I E S A A B

M I U M I U
A C N E S T U D I O S
E L I E S A A B
V I V I E N N E W E S T W O O D
193
NOT JUST
SUNGLASSES
A CHARMING
ACCESSORIES
S C H I A P A R E L L I
Y O H J I - Y A M A M O T O
L A N V I N
U M A W A N G
L E O N A R D P A R I S
N I N A R I C C I

PEPITOS
THE NEW WAY
TO BE IN STYLE
From 2020 PEPITOS has also expanded
the collection on the streetwear sector,
creating the first Pepitos Clothing Capsule.
An unique stories to tell
w w w . p e p i t o s e y e w e a r . c o m
PEPITOS was born in 2016 from the
friendship between Michele and his
cute little dog Pepe and the passion of
eyewear. This is how their company was
born.
From the first drawings, to the first
samples up to the creation of fantastic
collections, each eyewear is dedicated
and bears the name of the 4-legged
friends.
The Pepitos brand has studied the
funniest and most functional packaging
ever: a real dog snacks holder, certified for
food use.
The collections are full of color, bizarre
shapes, original styles and unique stories
to tell.
All glasses are produced in Italy with
the best selected materials and with the
experience of best craftsmen.
Today Pepitos is able to design, customize
and create collections for brands, shops
and companies.
195
T-Shirts, sweatshirts, pants, beanie and
bucket caps in perfect combo with glasses
to complete the design by Pepitos outfit.
© C O U R T E S Y O F P E P I T O S

ENFANTS
RICHES
DÉPRIMÉS
ENFANTS RICHES DÉPRIMÉS
debuts its Spring/Summer
2022 collection with its sixth
runway show at Paris Fashion
Week at Ecole de Médecine.
An emotional and dark
collection; the work focuses
on womenswear, leather,
and eyewear, permeated by
accessories.
Intelligent naive gestures are
constrained by elongated
silhouettes.
Noise is repressed by music,
craft by fine art, desire clashes
with conduct.
WATCH
THE VIDEO
HERE
96
w w w . e n f a n t s r i c h e s d e p r i m e s . c o m
Craft by fine ART
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : H E N R I A L E X A N D E R L E V Y
© C O U R T E S Y O F E N F A N T S R I C H E S D É P R I M É S

GAUCHERE
197
The 37 looks of the Spring Summer 2022
collection were filmed at the Palais Galliera.
The architecture of the Neo-Renais- sance
Palace with its broad, monumental windows,
paved cour tyard, semicircular peristyle and
glass & steel roof offered the perfect backdrop
and atmosphere for the collection.
For the Spring Summer 2022 collection, the house’s
founder and creative director Marie-Christine Statz
reflected an ongo- ing conversation with Miren
Arzalluz. It star ted when Miren was first introduced
to GAUCHERE and immediately felt and understood
the designer’s calling to create clothing for the
individual that express their identity and mood.
This shared experience led to Miren interpreting
Marie-Christine’s vision for the GAUCHERE collection
in her own words. “It is just so powerful when you feel
an intimate connection with your clothes, as if you
and them were all one and the same, enabling you to
express exactly what you want to tell the world about
yourself, at that par ticular moment; protecting
you where you most need it; helping you through
challenges, hardships, successes and dreams. It’s an
armor which is fluid, shielding and liberating.”
Whites, sand stone, vanilla and warm caramel
hues dominate the colour palette.This light
range is accentuated with a bright pea-green
and completed by dark neutrals such as navy,
midnight blue and black.
The house’s monochrome gender fluid suiting
offers powerful contrasts: tailored wools are
connected with sheer fabrics.
Shiny silk is panelled with dr y cot- ton. Open
weaved linen jackets have angular and
elaborate shoulders that morph into organic
and rounded shapes.They are styled with
bra tops and super wide pleat-front trousers.
Crochet, sequin and slip skir ts are paired
with delicate lace tops or with oversized shir
ts featuring lace applications, cur ved button
plackets, patched panels or pleats.
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C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : M A R I E - C H R I S T I N E S T A T Z
© C O U R T E S Y O F G A U C H E R E
A deep V-neckline is reoccurring
throughout the collection on tops, dresses
as well as collar- and buttonless vests and
jackets. Fluid dresses and tops come with
long slits and open backs. Soft asymmetries
are created with fabric knots and rounded
cut-outs. Drapes form different silhouettes
defined by the body.
GAUCHERE is a French prêt-à-por ter
house founded in 2013 by the designer
Marie-Christine Statz. Her vision is to create
garments that point out the individual.
At the hear t of GAUCHERE is the ar t of
tailoring, the appreciation of materials
as they are and the translation in pure
geometric structures and sculptural
volumes. Marie-Christine’s intuitive designs
are expressing the mood of today while
aiming for permanence and timelessness.
The GAUCHERE community is progressive.
It is an active par ticipant in today’s society.
“Live and let live” is not just a phrase for
them but an attitude towards life. Marie-
Christine’s intuitive designs are expressing
the mood of today while aiming for
permanence and timelessness.
The GAUCHERE community is progressive.
It is an active par ticipant in today’s society.
“Live and let live” is not just a phrase for
them but an attitude towards life.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
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AN INTIMATE CONNECTION

PAGE 202 PAGE 203
w w w . z i l l a . i t

Roman born Giambattista Valli
launched his eponymous brand in
2005, heralding his first ready- to-wear
show in Paris where he had moved
from Italy to realise his everlasting
GIAMBATTISTA
VALLI
dream of creating a true “Maison”, after
experiences at Roberto Capucci, Fendi
and as Creative Director of Emanuel
Ungaro.
The Maison’s headquarters were
established in a historic building
located on Rue Boissy d’Anglas which
also houses its main store entirely
dedicated to ready-to-wear collections,
leather goods and accessories
including shoes, bags and jewelry.
In July 2011 Giambattista Valli showed
his first Couture collection and was
accepted as an Official Member of
the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute
Couture. The launch of Giamba a new,
younger sister ready-to-wear line –
Giambattista Valli, a leading and
established name in the worldwide
fashion scene, brought a new approach
and meaning to luxury and beauty
that attracted a universe of a young,
modern and international generation
of highly glamorous and sophisticated
women from around the globe and
has been praised by celebrities and
fashion lovers, earning him a Star
Honoree Award from Fashion Group
International in 2011 in New York and
Best Designer of the Year Awards
from Elle China in 2013 and from Marie
Claire Spain in 2015.
followed in 2014.
From 2008 to 2017 Giambattista Valli
was Creative Director of Moncler
Gamme Rouge, building a new
language of refined activewear for the
brand and expanding the horizons for
the use of women’s puffer jackets.
205

Amal Clooney, Rihanna, Queen Rania of Jordan,
Ariana Grande, Kendall Jenner, Gwyneth
Paltrow are amongst those who are wearing his
creations.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
Ageless, Timeless, Effortless
Owned by Giambattista Valli with a minority shareholding
by Artemis (Pinault’s family investment group) the brand
has flagship stores in Paris, Milan, Doha and Seoul and
is internationally distributed with more than 245 selling
points. His narrative is about a love story, shared with
dreamers and lovers with a common philosophy:
ageless, timeless, effortless.
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : G I A M B A T T I S T A V A L L I
© C O U R T E S Y O F G I A M B A T T I S T A V A L L I
PAGE 206 PAGE 207
w w w . g i a m b a t t i s t a v a l l i . c o m

PERMANENT
METAMORPHOSIS
In reincarnation it is believed there is an interval
in between the end of one life and the beginning
of the next life. Designer Julius Juul was intrigued
by the concept of an intermediate state in which
an object or entity is in transition between two
stages.
Not being in the original stage or the new
stage, but existing
only in the transitional
stage. Manifesting the transitional phase as a
209
HELIOT
EMIL
AN INTERMEDIATE
STATE
permanent structure.
A ‘Permanent Metamorphosis’.
This concept gave way for garments in the
collection to be explored as transitional pieces
in which different phases of the transition was
expressed.
Asymmetrical patterns and shape modifications
conveyed the concept of work in transition.
Prints in the collection were generated using
artificial intelligence to find the intermediate
stage in an image in between various images.
In relation to this concept designer Julius Juul
constructed the collection with the familiar
HELIOT EMIL silhouettes, and continues the
constant narrative of exploring a balance
between form and function with each garment
design.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
w w w . h e l i o t e m i l . c o m

C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : J U L I U S J U U L
P H : S I M O N A S B E R U K S T I S & C H A R L I E S O F F E E
ASYMMETRICAL
PATTERNS & SHAPE
In the show you have seen the Amazfit smart watches.
Amazfit was launched the new GT3 series in October
2021.
AMAZFIT was established in 2015, and offers smart
watches and bands from daily to outdoor sport use,
and smart devices for sports and health like TWS
earbuds, smart treadmills and smart scales.
Currently, Amazfit products hit the markets of more
than
90 countries and regions, including the United
States, Germany, Turkey and Japan. In 2020, Amazfit
had the largest share of the adult watch market in
Spain and Indonesia. For more information, visit
www.amazfit.com
EXPLORING A BALANCE BETWEEN FORM AND FUNCTION
PAGE 210 PAGE 211

A VOYAGE IN
DESCENT
Dive into the sea and
Swim in the silence.
Issey
Miyake
Guided by the light from above, Yield to
the sway to Flow with currents.
Body immersed and unbound, Mind
acute and uplifted.
The ISSEY MIYAKE SPRING SUMMER 2022
collection A Voyage in Descent premiered online
on October 1st 2021.
This collection is inspired by a voyage into the
deep sea, beginning with a portrayal of the
silence and tranquility first felt in the water, and
Down below in the deep Thrives a world
full of life, Vivid and beautiful.
Seeing things that glow, spread out,
coil, and bounce.
Mesmerized for the first time in life,
Swim and swim, for a moment like this.
continuing to the uplifting sensation of making
new discoveries in the deep sea. This voyage
serves as inspiration to the original designs and
making of the collection expressed through fluid,
dynamic garments and lightweight, glistening
materials.
THE DEEP SEA
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

DIFFERENT
ATMOSPHERES
J U L Y 2 0 1 9
SILENCE
LINK RINGS
The SILENCE series is created using the
The LINK RINGS is an all hand-pleated key series
hikizome (hand-drawn dyeing) technique,
of the collection. Its construction connects
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : S A T O S H I K O N D O
© C O U R T E S Y I S S E Y M I Y A K E
CARVED
The CARVED series features a garment with fluid
curves and openings on both sides of the body.
done by craftspeople in Kyoto. Patterns are
drawn onto damp fabric with brushes and
paint sprayers, and continue to change until
the fabric is dry as the dye solutions continue
to seep in and develop. The luster of the fabric
brings out qualities of stillness and adds a
glistening touch.
round pieces of fabrics to give rise to a bold
and new garment that can be folded along the
pleats into a compact size. The way it opens up
and develops into ripples one after another
inspires an uplifting sensation.
SWIMMING
The SWIMMING series features patterns inspired
by waves and creatures from the deep sea,
The seemingly carved form emphasizes the wearer’s
waistline. The cotton fabric is woven with Washi
paper and biodegradable lame fibers to give it a
firm yet glossy texture and depth of color.
This series can be worn as a suit, or can be styled as
separates.
w w w . i s s e y m i y a k e . c o m
printed on a lustrous rayon fabric. A printing
technique called naki (bleed), allows the colors
to seep in and blur into each other to faithfully
represent the subtlety in the details created by
the mix of four colors.
The series is available in six styles including an
open-back dress.
PAGE 214 PAGE 215

“ I love travel, I love animals, I love
Nature in all its forms. I love to lose
myself in the vineyards, admiring
the fruits of Nature and finding
amazing the human touch when
it’s so synergic with Nature itself.
The interaction between man
and the world of grapes is both
ancientand exciting ... just like the
goldsmith technique I use for the
realization of my creations.
ELEONORA
GHILARDI
Over the years Eleonora Ghilardi has have
several opportunities to visit many wineries.
In this way she could realize that the passion
of people that produce wine is the same that
she feel in making her jewels.
much more than bubbly...
Creating a collection dedicated to “bubbles”
is therefore not only the expression of the
inspiration born from her excursions into
the world of viticulture but also a tribute to
people that fully experience this world.
SPARKLING is born in a natural way, designed for women and men who do not follow trends, but only
their personal taste and the research for beauty ...”
Eleonora Ghilardi
Sparkling
217
Collection
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EG jewels are created using the ancient goldsmith technique of lost wax. This technique consists in
creating a jewel using wax, a material that allows it to be modeled according to your needs. Imagine
a wax that is less oily and more compact than the one used for candles. By means of cutters, scalpels,
Sparkling
Collection
consists of:
files, drills it is modeled and allows to create very significant details. Once the model is finished, it is
93 models of rings
taken to a casting center and ... the magic happens! After the metal is melted, she finishes the jewel
10 bracelets
with a hacksaw, files, sandpaper and drill and if the design requires it, she uses enamels, oxide, gems
23 pendents/choker
or pearls.
29 earrings/earcuff
AN ANCIENT
GOLDSMITH
TECHNIQUE
w w w . e l e o n o r a g h i l a r d i . c o m
3 brooches
3 cufflinks
But...it is not sure that
other kind of jewels or
models notcould be
added...
A natural way
to be
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : E L E O N O R A G H I L A R D I
© C O U R T E S Y O F E L E O N O R A G H I L A R D I
THE PACKAGING
Elegant and ethical, EG packaging was created in
2012.
Usually relized with recycled paper, PLASTIC FREE,
for the finest modelsof SPARKLING collection
handmade wooden boxes are available.
The jewel is wrapped in light paper, in the same
shades of the metal alloyand enclosed in natural
cotton bags to ensure adequate protection.
Special stamps attest the peculiarities
of the collection. Instructions printed
in Italian and English explain how to
optimally maintainyour jewel, according to
its characteristics.
A delicate scent of grapes is released
when the box is opened. The certificate of
authenticity completes the package.
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© C O U R T E S Y O F E L I E S A A B & R A K C E R A M I C S
ELIE SAAB collaborates
with RAK Ceramics to launch
an exquisite bathroom and
surface collection
THIS DEBUT RANGE WAS
REVEALED AT DOWNTOWN
DESIGN IN DUBAI
ELIE SAAB continues expanding into a lifestyle
brand that delivers a unique experience of the
brand’s universe. The ceramic creations will
further enhance a luxury living expression,
exclusively presented by RAK Ceramics: where
luxury design meets ceramic expertise.
Both companies founded in the 80s with a
history firmly rooted in the region, ELIE SAAB
and RAK Ceramics, are leading companies in
their respective fields and share a vision of
exquisite design, impeccable craftsmanship and
uncompromising excellence in luxury living.
Beautiful finishes, elegant marble textures,
classic and contemporary colour combinations
are produced using only the finest raw materials
and the latest technology.
The ELIE SAAB Bathroom and Surface Collections
inspire interior designers and architects to
create unique, luxurious, and distinctive living
environments, and this first foray into the world
of ceramics will be yet another beautiful brand
addition to the world of ELIE SAAB.
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Five elegant collections are brought to life,
encompassing: Glamour, Liquid Metal, Royal,
Soft Lux and Travertinum. With its stunning
and sophisticated onyx, palissandro and dark
marble finishes, the Glamour collection makes
a fashion statement touching every corner,
where Liquid Metal is more spontaneous in
striking gold with concrete finishes,
adding a
unique and contemporary
touch to interiors. With uncompromising
attention to detail, the Royal collection adds a
A luxury living expression
commanding elegance to any contemporary
living space. Soft Lux adds a genuinely
luxurious decadence to the range with its
golden and gleaming qualities and elegant
marble textures. Finally, the organic textures
and timeless golden accents of Travertinum
add a natural charm and enduring elegance
to any prestigious living space.
The ELIE SAAB Bathroom and Surface
Collections are available exclusively through
RAK Ceramics.
PAGE 09
221

© C O U R T E S Y O F N O M A D E
NOMADE AS
ACONTEMPORARY
NOMAD,
A MAN WHO IS
USED TO
TRAVELING AND
WANTS TO TRAVEL
LIGHT
WITH A VERSATILE
AND PERFORMING
WARDROBE.
MEANT FOR
AN ELEGANT
AND BOHEMIAN
TRAVELLER!
noMade draws and
manufactures
handmade
goods by blending exceptional
savoir-faire and artisanal
heritage of ancestral culture
with technologically advanced
processes, Made in Italy, which
guarantee the high technical
22
quality of the desired finish
and a modern and performing
product.
Their mission is to bring
the world of craftsmanship
and manual skills into the
21st century by maximizing
comfort and style.
w w w . n o m a d e w a y . c o m

There was a time when product were built to perform and last into a
future. A time when quality and craftsmanship were agvenand and
the customer was king…that time is now. This is the story of noMade,
a journey to discover the importance of time, patience and quality
to enable us to explore a future delivering authentic craftsmanship
while respecting the nature and our planet
The Spirit of
noMade
noMade in line with the principles that inspired its foundation, that is the
research, recovery and enhancement of rare and ancient craft heritage,
through travel and discovery, offers products that are the result of a
unique savoir-faire, of traditions jealously guarded and with a constant
commitment to keeping up with the times through advanced finishing
technologies. Thanks to its
creations, their company
want to be an ambassador
HANDMADE
PERFECTION
of a joyful and refined art of
living, inspired and guided
by respect for nature and a
sustainable vision of doing
business.
An unique piece created
around you, not only a shoe
but a desire.
Their goal is to a perfect tailormade
product in accordance
with your dream’s details; a
radical customization of the shoe
from the bottom to the upper.
A perfect bespoke service
in accordance with your
dreams details.
Pieces made by hand to fill
out even more demanding
and creative customers.
PAGE 224 14
PAGE 225

To emphasize craftsmanship
and their strong focus
on customization, they
established the M.T.O. (Made
To Order) program.
Through this program them
most demanding and creative
customers will be able to
NATURAL
COLORS
They strive to make their products in a responsible,
ecological and environmentally friendly way; to this end,
all the colors used for the coloring of their raffia are made
with pigments of vegetable origin extracted from fruit,
vegetables, spices, herbs and other natural substances,
completely eliminating any type of metal pollution
produced by industrial chemical processing.
choose among the models
and details they prefer to
create a shoe that adapts not
only to your foot but also to
your style.
Tassels, initials, embroidered
motifs; until you can choose
from the many types of bottom
proposed in our collection.
The entire procedure takes
The entire procedure takes place in a very short time, about 6/8 weeks. This is because every
place in a very short time,
time a “handmade” order enters the laboratory it attracts everyone’s attention, to prevent the
pleasure of having a handmade object from being transformed into the impatience of having
to wait too long.
MADE TO ORDER
THE FUTURE THROUGH
THE PAST
The crochet expertly moves in small
knots that slowly build each upper
around its shape. It takes their Raffia
Masters, their skilled artisans and
8 hours of work to make a pair of
noMade shoes. Each shoe is then
gently beaten with a hammer for
about an hour, in order to make the fit
softer and more pleasant. Their work
is them strength.
PAGE 226 PAGE 227

HAND
MADE
WITH
LOVE
Behind every handmade object there is the
commitment and art of a master craftsman, but
there is also the history and culture of a place and
a people. A handmade object will forever remain
noMade for women
something unique and unrepeatable.
Processing times change with respect to the frenzy of
industry and serial production; here the realization of
noMade for women is a project whose mission
and organization that guarantees their well-
an object requires the right time, a time that expands.
is to integrate the 60 women, their artisans,
being and the possibility of giving continuity and
The refinement of the shapes, the quality of the raw
who come from the deep rural reality of the
dignity to their incredible talent and the immense
materials are the characteristics that embellish the
municipality of Essaouira, in the south of
artisan heritage that they can thus pass on. With
products of our world.
Morocco, into the productive, economic and
each purchase, you help these disadvantaged
Constant research allows the application of more
social fabric of the territory in which they live.
women to grow and thrive. They support these
modern processes through the use of cutting-edge
noMade main goal is to help them artisans to be
financially independent by providing them with
a stable income, fair trade, in an ideal working
environment and consequently providing
education for their children. Through this social
and solidarity entrepreneurship, they want to
bring a solution to various economic and social
dissatisfactions through an effective structure
women by offering them a job, helping them
to pass on their precious skills to keep alive the
ancient techniques of knotted raffia crochet.
They are committed to continuing this journey
by supporting local women and offering them
the opportunity to become independent and
proud of their work and to be able to share it with
the world.
w w w . n o m a d e w a y . c o m
technologies.
The high technical quality of finishing of each piece
is one of the objectives of their transformation work,
the element that gives them products the status of
hybrid, unique and special works.
The noMades are products that preserve the memory
of their history but carry with them the value of
refined and contemporary finishes Made in Italy.
PAGE 228 PAGE 229

30
JITROIS
The
world is reopening its doors again after two
years, that felt like we were all being suspended.
Now is the season of renaissance, festivals, raves,
parties and desire. The true essence of the Jitrois
by a new body geometry. The exposed skin now
forms part of the pattern and design. Corseted
tops and dresses enhance the lines of the neck and
chest alongside refining the waist by the draping
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : J E A N C L A U D E J I T R O I S
P H : E S H O P S T U D I O P R O D U C T I O N S
Welcome to the #jitroisklub
Klub shines through most brightly in our shared
post-pandemic world, where the lovers of leather,
passion and luxury are now able to reconnect again
in person after living in a virtual realm.
Jean-Claude Jitrois created the SS22 collection as
a wardrobe for this long awaited yet monumental
celebration, having in sight the reunion of all
to assemble in a leather wonderland framed by
escapism and lust. The collection was designed for
playful seduction, summer nights and the freedom
to finally dance. The clothes are constructed with
movement in mind, to reveal parts of the body, to
emphasise and liberate. The skin is enveloped by
ergonomic stretch leather strips. Asymmetrical
bandeau’ and micro-mini- skirts that are united
of ultra-fine stretch leather that flows downwards,
maintained by structured strong horizontal lines
creating as a result the perfect ensemble for a
midsummer night’s dream come true. The luxurious
black second skin stretch leather is nocturnal,
shiny and luminous. It plays with reflections and
harmonises with gold and white sat against Jitrois’
trademark patinated stretch denim leather. The
collection off-course has its solar counterpart with
colourful injections of bright orange, turquoise,
ultra-violet and red but also earthy hues of khaki,
burnt orange and beige.
This collection was designed with the idea of
repopulating the planet with love, until the early
hours of the morning.
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WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

w w w . i j o d e s i g n . c o m
IJO DESIGN
The fabric
is the true protagonist
of the brand
THE COLLECTIONS ARE MADE
ON ANCIENT HAND LOOMS
IJO design is the combination of
fashion, craftsmanship and design
according to sustainable economic
The fabric, the true protagonist of the brand, is
created to give shape to every single collection; the
search for noble, certified fibers is combined with
and environmental values, a ancient techniques and refined workmanship,
production with an eco-sensitivity for
the respect of the environment and
the well-being of the person.
then deconstructed and transformed into clothes
and accessories with simple geometric shapes,
architectural inspiration.
The IJO design collections are in fact In the endless possibilities offered by the
made on ancient hand looms made
of ancient olive wood in their small
workshops in Puglia as the entire
production chain, up to the finished
garment.
intertwining of warp and weft, each unique piece
woven is created on a sketch in every minimum
detail through the suggestion of a material
metamorphosis that becomes the hallmark of the
brand.
FINISHES AND
SARTORIAL SEAMS
In the packaging phase
the idea is that of the cloth
without cuts, but completed
with finishes and sartorial
seams, exposed selvages,
woven fringes, deliberately
unfinished works in a game
that recalls the story of a
story of endless threads.
IJO design has a
recognizable identity, a
strong international attitude
and is part of a context of
research of new languages
in a growing sector such as
that of sustainable luxury
craftsmanship.
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : A N N A L I S A S U R A C E
© C O U R T E S Y O F I J O D E S I G N

KIMHEKIM
235
Women
in Canvas
The poetic feeling when you visit an artist’s atelier is interpreted through details such as ornamented
buttons, canvas printed silk, and perforation which reminds the frame of artwork.
Here is the second chapter of thier new
series called OBSESSION: Designer Kiminte’s
obsession towards aesthetics, ‘Women in
Canvas.’
In many of the Kimhekim lookbooks,
the backside of canvases is used as the
background, reflecting how the Kimhekim
women live inside the art.
This season tells the story of Kimhekim’s
mysterious muse in the canvas.
The study of women’s beautiful curves and sophisticated simplicity reveals ready-to-wear that maintains
couture elegance.
Sophisticated
Simplicity
WATCH
THE VIDEO
HERE
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C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : K I M I N T E K I M H E K I M
P H : M A R I A C H E K H O V S K A Y A

Alida
Liberale
237
ART
ON
SILK
© C O U R T E S Y O F A L I D A L I B E R A L E
Alida Liberale is an artist whose extraordinarily inexhaustible
expressive vein finds realization in different pictorial
techniques from oil painting to tapestries, to silk painting.
It is precisely painting on silk that gives voice to her main
passion by using the brand name “ART ON SILK”
TO BE
DIFFERENT

The painted silk scarves are unique, exclusive, and unrepeatable
works. The colors slide on the silk following the careful hand of
the artist who knows how to direct the sign, as describing the
nature that accompanies the themes of her paintings. She is
Art to wear
inspired by nature and matter; the environment is a subject of
great attention for Alida. It is precisely “reserve dyes” through
the batik and shibori technique, which exploits the ecosustainable
respect of Art on Silk.
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PAGE 238 PAGE 239

40 KOCHÉ
REINTERPRETING
CRAFTSMANSHIP
AND COUTURE
CODES IN A MODERN
AND REAL WORLD
Christelle Kocher chose a very special
place for her KOCHÉ Summer 2022
fashion show: the prestigious Shangri-
La palace. This magnificent space acts
as the perfect backdrop to a collection
that is more delicate and refined than
ever, highlighting Christelle Kocher’s
“New Classic” aesthetics.
For this collection, Christelle Kocher’s
focus is on the handwork of the artisans
from her Parisian and Italian ateliers.
Christelle Kocher: “In fashion, the work
of the hand is what makes a garment
exceptional: the irreplaceable human
touch that gives the magic. I would like
everyone to have the chance to see the
atelier: the subtle choreography of the
hands while sewing, draping, retouching,
embellishing… It is exciting and so
moving.” Season after season, KOCHÉ
continues its mission of reinterpreting
craftsmanship and Couture codes in a
modern and real world. However, this
collection represents a shift for the
brand with the defining of KOCHÉ “New
Classic” aesthetics. The shapes are more
elaborate and the work on the details
and embellishments is even more
precise. Couture silk organza, paillettes
and the KOCHÉ monogram in dévoré
give elevated and feminine touches to
the collection.
new classic

POP
&
LOVE CULTURE
While the silhouettes are inspired by the glamour of
the 30’s, an architectural shoulder and other delicate
details highlight the Designer’s know-how. A very
distinctive and handmade technique of bomb
spray paint is applied to the garments, revealing
lace graphics or the KOCHÉ monogram. The pastel,
solar and luminous colour palette is heightened
by crystal and feather embroideries, all handsewn
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : C H R I S T E L L E K O C H E R
P H : G U I L L A U M E R O U J A S
in the KOCHÉ Parisian atelier. Revealed as part of
the collection, a see now / buy now capsule TINDER
x KOCHÉ reinforces the brand’s commitment to
playing with the rules of fashion and celebrating
diversity and inclusiveness. Christelle Kocher has
always believed in mixing styles and people. That is
how this collaboration was born, in the meeting of
the unexpected and the merging of crafted Couture
with pop and love culture.
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WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
PAGE 242 PAGE 243
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COMIC STRIP
LANVIN 245
A reconsideration of the meaning of Lanvin - its signs
and signifiers, its fundamental definition. A Lanvin
that resonates with the 2020s to the same degree
that Lanvin defined the 1920s, a dialogue between
past and future.
The Spring Summer 2022 women’s and men’s Lanvin
collection by Bruno Sialelli is a tribute to the house’s
identity, its ideology, remixed for where the world is
today.
Lightness and freedom have always been central to
Lanvin - qualities that still resonate today. Jeanne
Lanvin empowered women with her clothes, dressing
them in a manner that combined dynamism
with romance, reflecting different sides of a woman’s
psyche. Today, there is also playful sexiness, a youthful
esprit.
Lanvin’s lightness infuses the collection: dresses appear
to float on tulle construction that melts into the
body, some apparently simple drapes of fabric, like
spontaneous gestures in flou, edges raw, softly moving.
Knitwear is unlined, easy and close to the body;
tailoring is featherweight and the volume of fourrure
is translated to metallic tinsel. Toujours party.
Lightness can also translate to luminosity: to liquid
gazar and metallic mesh, reflective and sparkling.
Sequin embellishment glistens, drawn from a 1934
dress named ‘Concerto’ and applied as panels to
chiffon dresses.

LIGHTNESS
& FREEDOM
These references to history are also worn lightly,
with Lanvin’s Margheurite becoming a naïve Pop
daisy print, tailoring finished with sports detailing,
and the Robe de Style abbreviated to a playful baby-doll,
a fresh proportion. Throughout, a relevance
is forged between then and now, the Lanvin women
and a new Lanvin generation - mens’ suiting
fuses with streetwear in soft relaxed layers, and
skirts may be replaced with easy skateboard shorts
for a different attitude. The idea of crafting Lanvin
heroes and heroines is always forefront - today, we
need them more than ever. A collaboration with DC
Comics translates images of archetypal comic book
characters Batman and Catwoman into prints and
graphics. The saturated colors of those comic strips
infuse the collection: rich petrol blue, violet and
scarlet, like venomous flowers alongside Lanvin’s
delicate daisies.
PAGE 246 PAGE 247

WITH
DYNAMISM
ROMANCE
A collaboration with Judith
Leiber invents a selection
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of glistening minaudière
like playthings. They nod
to childhood innocence
and joy, as encapsulated
by the mother and child
that forms Lanvin’s
immediately recognisable
logo.
A dialogue with Lanvin’s
contemporary
spirit
inevitably includes the
legacy of the late Alber
Elbaz, here, flowing
voluminous dresses are
a nod to his era-defining
body of work, his own recalibrating
of Lanvin for
modern times and for the
lives of modern women.
And menswear is heroic: wide shouldered,
emphatic, glamorous. Padding both comforts
the body and exaggerated the silhouette,
while elegance and ease fuse, combining
couture fabrics - satin, fine wool, with relaxed
Accessories toy with Lanvin’s identity. The chainstrapped
and quilted ‘Happy’ bag is revived,
joined with a new curved design, the ‘Smile’.
In Lanvin tradition, jewellery is embalmed with
superlative and affirmative slogans in crystals -
A NEW
LANVIN
GENERATION
shapes.
they empower women, elevate mood.
PAGE 248 PAGE 249

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : B R U N O S I A L E L L I
© C O U R T E S Y O F L A N V I N
A DIALOGUE
BETWEEN
PAST & FUTUREIST
PAGE 250 PAGE 251
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

LECAVALIER
THE SPELL
A meditative state is reached through
rhythmic, repetitive movements involved
in hand weaving and crochet. A sense of
The expression of mystic energy through dance
For LECAVALIER´s debut on Paris Fashion Week’s
official calendar, Creative Director Marie-Eve
Lecavalier focuses on the theatricality of everyday
life and on the expression of mystic energy through
dance, rites and ceremonials. The collection explores
the metaphorical connections between real world
and magic, body and mind, drawing inspiration
from Alejandro Jodorowsky’s surrealistic film The
52
Holy Mountain and the opéra fantastique
The Tales of Hoffmann by Jacques Offenbach. Mona
Chollet’s book Witches:
The Undefeated Power of Women about the
persecution of women and their independence
plays an homage to inner strength and freedom.
w w w . l e c a v a l i e r . s t u d i o
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
letting go of control is depicted though
graphic, wavy details. Transparent and
sheer elements exist to remind us of
the vulnerability. Sustainability and
upcycling continue to play a major role at
LECAVALIER: handmade vegetal prints
are created in collaboration with artist
Marie Les Bains through an ancient
technique using fresh flowers, bringing
another dimension to the iconic swirl
print, with an organic yet romantic effect.
Oversized denim garments are made of
100% recycled jeans, while leftover leather
is now used for a new knitting technique
inspired by vintage crochet. Suiting
acquires significance becoming one of the
protagonists of the collection, developed
in refined crepe fabric. Handmade knitted
scuba items, made of leftovers from past
seasons, and transparent light knit rib
create a beautiful wrapping effect by its
texture and transparency. The body is
unveiled and concealed as part of a playful
yet sensual hide and seek. Classic shirting
confers an elegant and timeless allure.
Important partners for this season are
Canadian retailer La Maison Simons and
Paris Fashion Week.
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : M A R I E - È V E L E C A V A L I E R
P H : R I C C A R D O R A S P A

COLORS &
CONTRASTS
IN THE NAME OF
A VERSATILE
DYNAMISM
The sensuality of the foot
and ankle is always in the
foreground thanks to models
that tie vertically by wrapping
the skin: the architecture
of the shoe is precise, every
detail is studied to perfection
to conquer the eye and walk.
The bright and lively reflections
of South America are found in
the chromatic attitude that
favors strong colors capable
of moving on the creations
and transforming individual
details into a unique one.
A KINETIC ART:
FOR A CONTEMPORARY
WOMAN
ALESSANDRA
BALBI
Like the rouches, enveloping
protagonists on sandals and sling
backs, a symbol of a heritage
reinterpreted in a contemporary
way and capable of becoming
the signature of a precious and
timeless accessory.
© C O U R T E S Y O F A L E S S A N D R A B A L B I
OPTICAL CRUSH
Colors and contrasts immersed in a kinetic art that The iconic silhouettes are
embraces and conquers: this is not an optical illusion reinterpreted with the classic
but a creativity to be explored starting with the SS 2022 juxtaposed and curved
collection signed by Alessandra Balbi.
An elegant and sophisticated ‘joie de vivre’ that brings
the characteristic optical expression of the Argentine
artist Julio Le Parc and turns it into a feminine and hyper
chromatic proposal.
Focused on colors, at its base, and on contrasts in the
name of a versatile dynamism that bends and adapts to a
multicolored bands of Le Parc
that lives up a captivating
aesthetic: they are flat sandals
with prominent heels; they are
sling backs whose classic tone
is played down by contrasting
nuances.
contemporary woman, self-aware but always terribly chic.
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PAGE 15

A SUNKISSED LAND
56
Taking a page out of Slim Aarons’s playbook
of ”photographing attractive people doing
attractive things in attractive places” this
season designer Georg Lux has decided to
travel with Leonard to the sunkissed land of
warm summer holidays spent lounging by the
pool with a cocktail in hand. The film he has
created for his sophomore collection speaks
of a world where women dress up even if it’s
just to walk from their Italian villa down a few
stone steps to its azure blue piscine. After all,
good manners are never passé.
LEONARD
PARIS
IL SOLE

C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : G E O R G L U X
P H : P E D R O P O D E S T A
Outsized floral prints, both pulled
from the house’s extensive archives
and newly introduced this season,
come in tangy tropical colors of
mandarin, pineapple, punch pink
and mint green. They are used to
create skin baring short dresses
that finish in a flourish with a
single sleeve of matching organza,
slimming liquid jersey trousers,
structured coats that end in
floating feather cuffs, slender mini
skirts and long sleeve gowns that
gather in a midriff revealing circle.
All of them channeling a late 60s,
early 70s relaxed jet set allure.
A RELAXED JET SET ALLURE
Summer romance is also the order of the
day at Leonard. Chic limpid shirts in a “faded
by the sun” effect clematis floral print, worn
with a matching crisp white circle skirt, make
for an impeccable Croisette promenade
ensemble. While floating tiered chiffon
dresses and palazzo pants that caress the
skin and sway in the summer breeze are the
perfect destination wedding attire. Think
Sophia Loren on vacation on the Amalfi coast.
Then pair those pants with a matching halter
bralette top for the post nuptials seaside
cocktails, saunter up to a Leonard attired
man and let the festivities begin.
But no glamorous getaway is truly perfect without
elegant travel ensembles to get you from the
city to the coast. Lux has utilized the updated
geometric Leonard logo as a hypnotic print for
graphic tailored suiting and matching accessories
that harken back to that golden age when getting
dressed up to go on a voyage was the order of the
day. The designer has also reimagined the circular
Leonard symbol into a unique guipure lace
motif on dresses and pants that lets the wearer’s
skin come out and play. Most spectacularly as
perforated goal medallions linked together to
make a show stopping dress that glints in the
estate sun, especially when dripping wet from a
cooling dip in the pool.
Signora Loren would undoubtedly approve.
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WATCH THE VIDEO HERE PAGE 258 PAGE 259

ZILLA
ZILLA stands for unusual and contemporary
design combined with unexpected materials. The
material is the main inspiration for the collection,
therefore each season the designer Sylvia Pichler
researches innovative and uncommon surfaces
on which to experiment with. She starts out by
repurposing materials, thus giving them a new
life in an altered shape. This is the approach
representing the fundamental part of her creative
process and the key to her brand`s ongoing
success. In an artisan laboratory close to Venice,
reflective iridescent foils and aluminium, as well as
high quality leathers and canvas, are transformed
into stimulating and clever shapes lined with
metallic foils: mouldable and foldable bags for
everyday use or special occasions. The shapes of
the bags have a minimal and clean approach and
will refresh and empower every outfit.
The Spring Summer ’22 collection brings to a
further level the basic needs for comfort and
simplicity mixed with extraordinary materials
that make Zilla bags so special.
The collection is a dive into a summer
feeling of electric blue and pastel
colors like pistacchio, grey and sand.
The colors are used in the SATIN
which is one of the MUST materials
for the Spring Summer bags. Satin
is extremely light and has a silky
touch but at the same time the metal
inside gives to the object a sharp and
structured shape.
BAGS FOR
EVERYDAY
Bags with Unusual and Contemporary Design
This new collection presents, as well, Zilla bags in the
iconic glitter metallic leather, from different shades
of rose, blue and green. The brilliance of this precious
laminated calf leather is since many years a
bestseller. A new touch has been added which is the
straw called paglia, used for shoppers in various sizes
261
and also for the Rucksack line, combined with natural
leather straps in cognac or off white. To the traditional
canvas Rucksack’s, Zilla adds the new flashy
cobalt blue also combined with off white leather details
for an absolute summer feeling.

Mouldable
and foldable
bags for
everyday use or
special occasions
Summer vibes goes on repurposing small and medium
size bags of four different colors in the glossy iridescent
cotton. Those colors are diffcult to define as the light
makes them glimmer from tones of yellow to green
and orange to pink.
Since decades every collection brings also the lunch
bag, a funny and ironic bag known from the traditional
market and made out of a brilliant resined
metal sheet.
In this collection is ongoing the chain
necklace and bracelet in gold and silver, this
chain is beautiful if added as a shoulderstrap
or handle to various bags to give them
a festive touch.
THE COLLECTION IS A DIVE
INTO A SUMMER FEELING
PAGE 262 PAGE 263

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : S Y L V I A P I C H L E R
© C O U R T E S Y O F Z I L L A
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LITKOVSKAYA
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267
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : L I L I A L I T K O V S K A Y A
© C O U R T E S Y O F L I T K O V S K A Y A
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

87
TRADITIONS COULD BE INTEGRATED
Litkovskaya is a Ukrainian womenswear brand founded
by designer Lilia Litkovskaya. Lili comes from a family of 4
generations of tailors and sees it her mission to preserve
this profession and the crafts surrounding it. She unveils
the way traditions could be integrated in a modern
context and is committed to working in sustainable way.
Deconstructing the very concept of modernity through
a bold touch, she offers a radically realistic wardrobe for
woman who is free to be both fragile and fierce.
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70
MAISON
MARGIELA
Extraordinarily visionary to leave the mark of
a style projected to a futuristic vision, John
Galliano, creative director of Maison Margiela,
presented a collection of ready to wear rich in a
couture beyond any predictable imagination.
Maison Margiela’s new collection made of
unstructured garments, but with perfect
shapes in their constructions, draws inspiration
from a new environmentalist trend.
John Galliano has translated this into true
couture by observing the new trendy sport
practiced by young people in the Parisian
canals, who fish with an electromagnet and
retrieve anything the magnet can pick up.
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C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : J O H N G A L L I A N O
© C O U R T E S Y O F M A I S O N M A R G I E L A
A sustainable future
A discipline with a strong and excellent environmental message
where no animals are preyed upon and at the same time the seabed is
cleaned of everything that is intercepted by the magnet.
The importance of how imperative it is to pay attention to our behavior
for a more sustainable future has not left John Galliano indifferent, far
from it. The collection presented during Paris Fashion Week with a
video directed by Olivier Dahan has conveyed in a disruptive way a
message within which there is all the great constructive and creative
vision of this fascinating couturier.
WATCH
THE VIDEO
HERE
PAGE 272 14
PAGE 273

A FOREIGN LAND
w w w . m a i s o n r a b i h k a y r o u z . c o m
275
MAISON
RABIH
KAYROUZ

THE GRAND DAME
OF THE BAY
Work jacket, safari jacket,
She leaves when she feels like it.
She takes her suitcase and carries it with her
wherever she goes. Travel clothes. Bay dresses.
She is ready Walk the streets of a foreign land
Dare the adventure of a safari.
Go dancing under the stars
In her suitcase, all the essentials. Cape and
trench coat.
blouson, dinner jacket Bermuda
shorts and baggy pants Blouses,
polo shirts and shirts. Hard and
soft materials.
Poplin, taffeta, oriental lamé,
revisited denim
Shades of beige, blue. Light pink
or yellow Fawn print, galaxy of
rhinestones Dresses sewn with
a gesture. The wrapped body
disguises a cloud
Plays the grand dame of the bay
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : R A B I H K A Y R O U
P H : M A T H I E U M A U R Y
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
PAGE 276 PAGE 277

MIDORJ
STRENGTH
LONGEVITY
NOBILITY
MEMORY
Every Midorj Jewel has its own
character, pretty much like a
contemporary bug stuck into
amber, is immersed in resin which
preserves and protects it from
ageing. Every piece is handmade
with wax and then melt. Bronze
is a very shiny metal, strong and
vivid, which responds to climate
and to the natural PH of the skin.
Intuition and creativity of the
architect and designer Camilla
Andreani, who combines her
78
knowledge in the use of materials,
the experience in using particular
techniques of craftmanship
and a consistent research and
development.
H A N D M A D E
U N I Q U E P I E C E S
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : C A M I L L A A N D R E A N I
© C O U R T E S Y O F M I D O R J

CUSTOM-MADE
A virtuous
project of
circular
economy
Born in a century where
new technologies are
predominant, but also
keeping an eye on
sustainable development,
the environment and
creative recycle, Midorj
aims everything at the
importance of handmade
craftmanship, giving the
client a huge chance of
having a custom-made
product.
Every small bug floating in
resin is created using small
electrical components no
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longer used, and therefore
unique.
In every jewel it is possible
to custom adapt every
component colour or resin.
Midorj is 100% made in Italy
and hand made.
Midorj (Japanese for green)is totally made in Italy.
Green recycle circular economy these are the keywords
of this project. Everything “comes to unend”
every Midorj recreates a vicious circle, founding element
of the whole creative process.
Special electric and electronic waste
(RAEE in Italy) get submerged and locked
in resin which stops the ageing process,
creating a virtuous project of circular
economy.
PARTICULAR TECHNIQUES
OF CRAFTMANSHIP
PAGE 280 PAGE 281

MAME
KUROGOUCHI
"Walking between my temporary studio
and the museum, I thought about what
makes the identity of the brand.
As my mind wandered, my eyes roamed.
One day, realisation struck: Raindrops on
the grass. Petals fallen in a river. Sunshine
playing through icicles. Flowers dotting a
field. Seeing this scenery around me, I was
struck by the speed of life, remembering
the landscape near my grandparents
home. As snapshots of past and present
LAND
w w w . m a m e k u r o g o u c h i . c o m
superimposed in my mind, I realised that
my work was all around me. Like a seed,
Mame Kurogouchi - mame - means bean
in Japanese had grown from this rich soil
to become an entire world, nourrished by
this beauty everlasting and every morning
renewed”.
When the time came to start her Spring Summer 2022 collection, the designer Maiko Kurogouchi was
going through the Mame Kurogouchi archive, to prepare for the “10 Mame Kurogouchi” exhibition at the
Nagano Prefectural Art Museum retracing the first decade of her label. When she returned to the studio,
she started to paint not what she had seen but spring blossoms, their tender shapes perceptible under a
This became the basis for
82
the collection, as she worked with ateliers to create textiles that would transcribe
wash of white paint.
this.
This patient love and innovation based upon the wisdom of craft is also an idea that has blossomed over
the first decade of Mame Kurogouchi.
First, a complex jacquard in which the floral motif is overlaid with silky threads that gently blur the blooms.
Then an iridescent ombré dyed silk jacquard with slit yarn threads, like a hazy impression of flowers
shimmering in the high noon. Using the idea of Itajime Shibori, previously used in Fall 2021, master
craftspeople have pioneered a novel technique, by folding fabric with wooden sticks and patiently pouring
dye onto the fabric, block by block. As colours collide and mingle, a natural and sensitive gradation is born.
Linen, a material she remembered in the haze of memory, becomes a whisper that renders outlines with
softness and beauty. Elsewhere, it’s minute beads, patiently threaded into crochet trims and knitwear that
express the idea of glittering treasures and ephemeral raindrops.
THE WISDOM
OF CRAFT

The palette is an exploration
of what colour the spring is,
not in literal terms, but in
the impression that remains
in the mind through time:
the tender pink of cherry
blossoms turning the
streets near-white, the
contrast of a petal floating
away in obsidian canal
waters, the lilac gradient
of sunset so delicate it is
near-invisible yet boldly
felt. Shapes praised the
female form, which Maiko
Kurogouchi has been doing
since Courbe, curve in
French, the very first brand
she launched, before Mame.
One item bridges the
brand’s first decade and the
coming one: a jacket with
an intricate juxtaposition of
circles that create cutout
effects. Nodding to one
of her earliest designs, it
makes its appearance here
in a conversation between
the Maiko of then and who
she has grown into.
Distilled across the collection, it
becomes striking circular details that
are as technically demanding as they are
playful for the wearer. A neckline, sloping
gently backwards, reveals the nape of
the neck – a traditionally sensual gesture
that roots her work even further, into the
tradition of her homeland, where the
rectangles of a kimono come to dialogue
with the curves of the human form.
Continuing this idea of curves, the Spring
Summer 2022 accessories of Mame
Kurogouchi bring the delight of the
unexpected to these serene silhouettes.
An architectural sandal curves around
the foot, secured but appearing to float.
Crystal jewellery shines, like so many
indistinct flowers reflecting sunlight
on their petals through a whisper of
fog. Crochet bags appear with beads
subtly woven into them, echoing the
dew of Nagano’s countryside but also
the exquisite knitwear found in the
collection.
Spring
Blossoms
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : M A I K O K U R O G O U C H I
P H : Y U I C H I R O N O D A
PAGE 284 PAGE 285

OFFICINA &
DESIGN
Made to
Measure
www.officinaedesign.it
PAGE 26
In the atelier of Faenza, in the province of
Ravenna, Officina & Design creates every
day precious embroideries and artistic
paintings on precious fabrics, under the
creative direction of Roberta Graziani,
founder of the brand, and Gaia Lazzari,
Roberta’s daughter who inherited
Roberta’s talent and creative flair.
Their passion for fashion and design
allows them to create every day the
precious handmade works that Officina
& Design produces on behalf of their
clients.
Every single “Made to Measure” work
is the wonderful result of research and
hours of work that result in precious
unique pieces perfectly executed in
absolute elegance and this is the reason
why their workshop-art is also chosen by
the most important fashion houses of the
international scene.
The creative flair of Officina & Design has
no limits so much as to create embroidery
and painting on fabric for different
287
sectors, in addition to fashion, creates
customized solutions to decorate the
house or yacht for customers who love to
surround themselves with unique pieces
and pure design for a true “LIFE STYLE”.
Precious handmade works
© UFASHON - Pants: La Vie en Blanc - Blouse: Officina & Design - Ph Marco Tassini

www.borsalino.com
PAGE 288 PAGE 289

I S S E Y M I Y A K E
A L E X A N D R E B L A N C
V I V I E N N E W E S T W O O D
T O M V A N D E R B O R G H T H Y È R E S
K O C H É
P A T O U
M A Z A R I N E
A L E X I S M A B I L L E
U M A W A N G
291
Get
Inspired
Spring Summer Looks
S H I A T Z Y C H E N
S C H I A P A R E L L I

MARINE
SERRE
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : M A R I N E S E R R E
© C O U R T E S Y O F M A R I N E S E R R E
Born and raised in Corrèze, Marine Serre has
gained ground quickly as a couturier for and
from a new generation, operating from Paris.
After a string of affirming internships and jobs at
Alexander McQueen, Maison Martin Margiela, Dior,
following, with highlighted collection
titles such as Manic Soul Machine,
Radiation, Marée Noire, Mind Melange
Motor and her last tumultuous
presentation for Spring/Summer 2021:
w w w . m a r i n e s e r r e . c o m
approach in the design and production seasonal
and Balenciaga, Marine’s graduation collection, A
Amor Fati, the short film. Convinced
ready- to-wear: using end-of-life product as
Radical Call for Love was simultaneously selected
to remain fully independent, Marine
a base for new and unique high-end tailored
for the Hyères Festival, the ANDAM Prize and the
Serre received the prestigious ANDAM
garments. Around 50% of her seasonal styles
LVMH Prize in 2017. Before winning the latter in
Award in July 2020, providing the
are currently labelled as “Regenerated”, that is
June ’17, she sold globally across Dover Street
brand a further acclaim and critical
designed and produced from upcycled, end-of-
Market, SSENSE, H.Lorenzo, and other progressive
endorsement from its jury of industry
life product as base material. The uncompliant
retailers. She had moved to Paris and made it her
heavyweights. Over the seasons
designer sees her collections structured over
new home. Fast forward three years her critical
the scope progressed and widened.
four different lines: MARINE SERRE: WHITE LINE,
acclaimed designs have meanwhile garnered a cult
Crucially, the label introduced a new
GOLD LINE, RED LINE and BORDERLINE.
WATCH THEVIDEO HERE

CHOPARD
L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono
Lightweight, versatile, precise:
a very modern grand complication
94

The combination of perpetual calendar and
hand-wound chronograph has long been
regarded by connoisseurs as one of the highest
expressions of the watchmaker’s craft, which
Chopard mastered five years ago when it first
presented the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono. At its
heart is Calibre L.U.C 03.10-L, a true horological
marvel notable for the seamless integration
of the most prestigious forms of chronograph
and perpetual calendar construction.
The surface of the titanium has been specially hardened to give the metal faultless resistance to shocks
and nicks over time. While titanium is notoriously hard to finish compared to the softer noble metals,
Chopard’s in-house artisans have nevertheless rendered a glorious, jewel-like finish in keeping with the
finest traditions of L.U.C watchmaking. The L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is powered by the L.U.C 03.10-L, a
movement of exceptional craft, complexity and beauty, entirely developed and produced at Chopard
Manufacture’s workshops. The movement’s architecture is based around the iconic chronograph
construction, featuring elements denoting chronograph watchmaking at the highest level of execution.
At the heart of this mechanism, a column wheel precisely coordinates the functions of the chronograph,
while a patented vertical coupling clutch ensures actuation that is light to the touch but utterly exact. The
flyback function allows immediate reuse of the chronograph without the need to stop and reset.
Carrying both Chronometer certification
and the esteemed Poinçon de Genève, this
masterpiece is now transformed for modern
lifestyles with a case made from lightweight,
durable titanium. Combined with an artfully
paired-back aesthetic, the new L.U.C Perpetual
Chrono offers a truly up-to-the-minute
approach to classical Fine Watchmaking.
The use of titanium, exceptionally unusual
in the world of Fine Watchmaking, brings
a new and modern versatility to the L.U.C
Perpetual Chrono. One of very few titanium
perpetual calendar chronographs ever
created, it presents an innovative alternative
for collectors seeking options besides gold or
platinum, while retaining the sense of precious
rarity found in watchmaking at its most
prestigious. Crucially, titanium’s lightweight
nature ensures the 45-millimeter timepiece is
a comfortable, ergonomic watch for everyday
wear, while shorter lugs make it a perfect fit
for any wrist.
When the zero-reset pusher is pressed, however, the instantaneous movement of the counters and
central sweep seconds hand is managed by patented progressive-contact hammers that guarantee
optimal precision. Finally, a semi-instantaneous jumping minute counter ensures the precise display of
chronograph minutes. All chronograph functions are highlighted on the dial by red details. The perpetual
calendar mechanism, crafted so that its displays integrate perfectly with the chronograph functions, is
no less inventive. In particular, the high precision orbital moon phase, a showpiece of the dial design at 6
o’clock, is accurate to just a day’s deviation every 122 years.
PAGE 296 PAGE 297
w w w . c h o p a r d . c o m

MAURIZIO
© C O U R T E S Y O F M A U R I Z I O M I R I
MIRI
The Maurizio Miri’s style is a matter of
research.
A research that starts from the
observation of the reality and tries to
reach the soul.
The aim of his job is to create garments
that reflect this inner work and convey
emotions.
To achieve this goal Maurizio Miri
always put his creative touch into
play to and get down to the very
essence, relying on the skills of toplevel
technicians and designers,
high-quality fabrics and handcrafted
A WORK
OF ART
w w w . m a u r i z i o m i r i . c o m
accessories.
A MATTER OF
RESEARCH
The result is a
298
sober and simple style, which eliminates all frills and creates a perfect harmony between
fabrics, cuts and accessories in order to celebrate the beauty in its simplicity.
In fact, if it’s true that what is beautiful is not always also simple, on the contrary what is simple is always
beautiful. That is exactly what he try to express with the essential and harmonious designs of his style.
This is not a fashion requirement, but a core point of his message.

MAZARINE
Mazarine is inspired by a story to which
she adds a surrealist touch. This season,
Mazarine is freely inspired by the myth
of Pygmalion, a sculptor who creates
his own statues, including Galatee. The
statues come to life. Mazarine is inspired
by the myth of Pygmalion.
For over a year, the Mazarine team
has been busy, just for fun, working
in drawing, painting, still life, with the
Mazarine drawing club.
The myth of Pygmalion
There is something enchanting about the creative
process, where what we imagine or not quite yet,
comes to life. It is also the theme of the myth of
Pygmalion that gives life to his sculpture, galatea.
This research also illustrates the artistic interests,
00
beyond fashion, of the design studiowhose other
activities are united under the name of “Bleu Paris”.
This spring-summer 2022 collection is inspired by the
creative process, from the sewing workshops but also
from the artists’ studios, from the blank canvas, the
canvas on which the models come to life.
w w w . m a z a r i n e . p a r i s
Imagining that a totem becomes a collection silhouette,
the fabric turns into a dress, gives a dreamlike vision of
the creation of a collection. This collection mixes readyto-wear
and tailored garments made for Mazarine clients
in unusual materials, embroidered with pearls or buttons.
The dresses are for day and evening, the volumes are bold,
the details are surreal and the colors, cognac, spotted
blue dark green, beige and black, unexpected.
For this season, Thomas Dufour and Helene Timsit
directed and staged the Mazarine collection video.
Like every season, Mazarine produces all of its clothes in
France and gives a second life to fabric stock from the
big houses. For Mazarine, there is no sustainable fashion
without reasoned or even on-demand production, and
Mazarine has been developing over-ordering with its
clients and manufacturers for several seasons now,
because this is the future of fashion.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : H É L È N E T I M S I T
P H : V I C T O R B E I N D F E L D

C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : L A U R I E A R B E L L O T A N D M A R I O N A N A I S
P H : C H A N T E L L E D O S S E R
MINUIT
MINUIT
For this season Laurie Arbellot, the creative
director, and Marion Anais Forand, the creative
consultant, got inspired by the spaced age during
the 60s,the work of the photographer Peter
Knapp and the artist John Chamberlain.
The Spring Summer 22 collection is very feminine,
02
playful, mixing clean shapes , long lean silhouette,
pants with a twist to them.
PAGE 15
w w w . 0 0 - 0 0 . c o m
MIXING
CLEAN
SHAPES
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

www.annagiuliafirenze.com PAGE 304 PAGE 305

MIU MIU
BASIC
INSTINCTS
A reaction to and reflection of reality, an
economy, a freshness found in iterations
of eternal, universal garments. The Spring
Summer 2022 Miu Miu collection by
Everyday alongside every night, the
aesthetic language of day and evening
dress each serve a purpose and have
a meaning within life. An antidote to
Miuccia Prada is an exercise in referencing
and researching reality, using the existing
meaningless novelty, the
examines fundamental
collection
realities of
to create the new.
dress, the needs and wants of people
The
foundations are classic: trousers,
from their clothes. It is an amplification
sweaters, shirts, blazers, suits and sheath
dresses, absolute archetypes of everyday
dress. A new balance of proportion is found
through cutting into pieces, retaining
the believable character of each, yet
altering their relationship with the body.
Trousers are cut into abbreviated skirts,
sweaters and shirts carved out to reveal
the body. Edges are left raw, elements of
of actuality, a focus on reality. Alongside
reality, fantasy: the physical and virtual
spaces of the Miu Miu show are
punctuated with works by the artist
Meriem Bennani, whose body of work
explores intimate relationships mediated
through the camera. Here, that idea is
echoed and overlapped with another
interrelation, of women and fashion.
construction exposed in commemoration
Conceived alongside the
collection,
of the spontaneity of these actions.
The notion of reworking existent pieces
extends to a collaboration with New
Balance - the 574 sneaker is re-proposed
in white, khaki or blue denim, with raw-cut
edges. Embroideries reflect the decoration
of night-time attire, embellishing dresses
and suits.
Bennani commands control of the Miu
Miu live stream via a series of filmic
artistic interventions starring her own
307
mother. These fantasy sequences are
mixed real-time into the broadcast of
the show to blur lines between virtual
and real.

IN REFERENCING AND
RESEARCHING REALITY
Underscoring these ideas, the
interior of
In the Palais, Bennani installs binocular- shaped
the Palais d’Iena is interrupted rather than
transformed. Its architecture remains, a runway
devised by AMO snaking through the centre,
the audience balanced on Eames office chairs
as an echo of the Palais’ continuing function
as place of work.
screens to cut through the space, reforming and
re-editing the physical experience of the show and
projecting her films into real life.
As with the clothing of the collection, these filmic
cuts create a new work editing reality, altering
perceptions.
A NEW
BALANCE
OF PROPORTION

Alongside reality, fantasy:
the physical and virtual
spaces of the Miu Miu
show are punctuated
with works by the artist
Meriem Bennani
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A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : M I U C C I A P R A D A
© C O R T E S Y O F M I U M I U
The materials used for the set-up of Miu Miu Spring
Summer 2022 show will find new life after the
event thanks to La Reserve des Arts, an association
offering a service of collection, recovery of raw
materials and decoration waste from fashion shows,
making them available to professionals and students
of the cultural sector.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

ANTONIANI
EXCLUSIVE
BAGS FOR
FREE SOULS
313
The Antoniani bag is not a simple
accessory, but an accent to
be placed as a lifestyle and
are chosen by those women
who have a free spirit and love
to dare, standing out for an
exclusive elegance that makes
them unique for their charm.
Giada Pavone CEO founder of Antoniani’s
brand, was born and grew up in the tailor’s
atelier of her Bolognese grandmother
Fernanda Antoniani, to whom she
dedicated the name of her brand and
where she began to animate the stylistic
track of her bag creations.
An unique style with charm
Antoniani creates exclusively unique pieces, giving priority to colors and choosing models with clean lines,
with harmonious contrasts in the cuts and colors, selecting fabrics and leathers of the highest quality,
mixing, as the designer likes to define, the material. A “must” of the brand are the models “B SIDE” and
“L’ANTONIANI” that tell her inspiration for the style of the ‘70s and ‘80s, obviously dragging in the stylistic
choices also the music scene of these years, with groups such as Roxy Music or Japan. wThe unmistakable
glam of those years give her inspiration, having Jerry Hall or Pat Cleveland as muses, crossing and mixing
in her total artistic inspiration fashion and music of this period.
www.antonianidesign.com
© C O U R T E S Y O F A N O T N I A N I

S C H I A P A R E L L I
E L I E S A A B
A Z F A C T O R Y
W E I N S A N T O
A N D R E W G N
V I V I E N N E
W E S T W O O D
N I N A R I C C I
C E C I L I E - B A H N S E N
S A D A E L S
V A L E N T I N O
PAGE 14
B A L E N C I A G A
M A R I N E S E R R E
L E O N A R D P A R I S
315
TREND BAG:
THE REVOLUTION
Z A D I G & V O L T A I R E
P A T O U
S H I A T Z Y - C H E N
M A I S O N M A R G I E L A

MOSSI
The looks of the collection reveal a new
range of colours inspired by the Malian
landscape, notably through those
created in collaboration with this season’s
guest, Ibrahim Ballo. A Malian painter
who specialises in inserting embroidery
into his work, Ballo has developed a craft
technique of embellishment that he
himself has applied to Mossi garments,
combining acrylic paint with a second
stage of wool embroidery inspired by
ancient textile manufacturing practices.
On the occasion of this presentation, which
celebrates encounters between various aspects of
Malian culture, Ibrahim Ballo presented to explain
the creative process that guided the collaboration
as well as the common history of the different
actors in the collection. In a bid to promote the
Parisian presence of cultural pan-Africanism,
316
the brand has teamed up with musician Nawa
Sylla to create an original soundtrack that will
accompany the entire presentation.
A Frenchwoman from the Ivory Coast, Nawa Sylla
crossed paths with Mossi in their neighbourhood
of Hautes Noues as a teenager.
w w w . m o s s i . f r
A CONCEPT
OF URBAN
FASHION
The designer’s objective is to make these
new energies visible, thanks to an innovative
geography that involves highlighting talents whose
intangible and effective positions feed the brand’s
multidisciplinary collaborations. By introducing
African cultures to the Carrousel du Louvre, Mossi
energizes an urban and social reality that clothing,
through its constant physical accompaniment,
translates into an art of evolution.
The colors inspired by the Malian landscape
The artistic director, eager to unite a
community of young creatives whose
talents are geographically camouflaged,
invited his friend Nawa Sylla to create
a sound suite inspired by West Africa.
Located just a stone’s throw from the
brand’s first permanent sales area, the
Mossi presentation was set up in the heart
of the new dynamic of the Carrousel du
Louvre. Born on the outskirts of Paris, the
brand is now taking its place in the centre
of the capital, associating its concept
of decentralised urban fashion with the
aspirations of Greater Paris.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : M O S S I T R A O R É
P H : S E G A L E N B R I E U C

LEOPOLDINE
Leopoldine were born from many women
common passion, the footwear one, that very
often begins in the childhood, dreamind about
Cinderella crystal shoe or ruby red as Dorothy.
The name Leopoldine comes from grandpa
Leopoldine shoes
are hand-made
and each, with
its own story, is
a flagbearer for
the “Vero Made
in Italy”
www.leopolidineshoes.com
Leopoldine reflect our style and what we love.
Leopoldo, who used to mark his items with
A shoes’ model commonly worn by the little ones, his own name, including his shoes. One day,
revisited and dedicated to those women who escaping from a farmer from whom he had
love a traditional but at the same time innovative stolen cherries, he climbed a tree leaving his
style.
shoes on the ground, obviously it was not so
difficult to recognize him because of his name
was engraved on the sole.
319

NEHER A SS2 2 is inspired by the contemporar y artists
Libenský and Brychtová and their masterpiece “The Inner
Light ”. The Czechoslovak visionary couple revolutionized
glass sculpting by exploring the materials contrasting
characteristics: fragility and massiveness, color nuances
and transparency, light sensitivity, and reflective abilities.
Following the Libenský and Brychtová method, the NEHERA
SS22 shines with contrasting features that evolved into a
softer, yet bolder wardrobe with a focus on cut. The collection
plays with color depth, density and explores new and more
diverse fabrics and forms to create styles that capture strong
creative statements in timeless expressions. The key of the
collection is still in NEHERA’s signature tailoring that brings
this time new and unique silhouette in fluid cuts and suits.
Continuing the brand’s love for volume, SS22 brings
generous straight-cut trousers easily combinable
with an shaped no-visible -pocket blazer or with
the vest jacket and deconstructed sleeveless
jacket. The same jackets with bow leg tapered
trousers create a less formal look. The novelties are
the slim boot cut pants for a more feminine and up
-to-date silhouette. Tops are more contemporary
thanks to a wider range of manufacturing. Shir ts
have diverse cuts to match dif ferent st ylings:
sleeveless A-shaped, wide straight long sleeve
shirt, boxy volumes 3 -quarter kimono sleeve shirt.
Dresses include the body silhouette as well as a
generous volume which is a hallmark of NEHERA .
NEHERA
The high-quality fabrics are the essential layer
that creates the flow between the inner and outer
light. The collection plays with textures like
3 completely different types of linen: classic 100
% linen, luxury linen wool-silk and sophisticated
crushed linen-cotton. There is a cotton & paper
trench novelty, waterproof double face or light reflecting
viscose satin. The knit wear is straight for
ward yet exquisite. The extra light summer pieces
are made of cotton viscose along with 100 %
cotton yarn knit ted with Lycra forsmall fitted tops.
NEHER A SS22 collection captures that subtle inner
light charge that makes the NEHERA Woman
shine inwardly and out wardly. The essence of
NEHERA is functional comfort. Relying on creativity
and innovation to create exceptional fashion
that remains elegant, regardless of the evanescent
trends. In a fashion world obsessed with More,
NEHERA ucover s the beauty in Less. With at wist.
The timelessness of thedesigns is reflected in the
quality of materials. A long with local craftsmen,
every fiber is carefully reviewed to match the
most rigorous sustainability benchmark.
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C R E A T I V E D I R E C T I O N & C O N C E P T : N E H E R A & J A N D L
© C O U R T E S Y O F N E H E R A

PLAYING WITH
COLOR DEPTH
NEHERA’s culture champions spontaneity, vitality, and sustainability,
while the creations feel grounded and unassuming.
Removing the unnecessary, and the super fluous to reveal
graceful designs that are honest, unique, and quietly compelling.
Under stated elegance is balanced by emotive gestures.
NEHERA is an independent Slovak brand that revived the
heritage of the famous C zechoslovak brand that flourished
in the 1930s and made history worldwide in the integration
of design, production, and retail.
w w w . n e h e r a . c o m
The artisanal tradition of the Czechoslovak textile industry goes back to
the first ready-to-wear factory established in 1868, mainland Europe in
Prostejov, the Moravian hometown of Jan Nehera.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
PAGE 322 12
PAGE 323

NINA
325
RICCI
Our planet’s oceans are a perennial
source of awe
and optimism for Lisi
Herrebrugh
and Rushemy Botter, who
invoke its infinite beauty throughout the
Nina Ricci Summer 2022 collection.
A source of abundance, a summer
playground and an endlessly shifting visual
landscape, the water provides a prism
through which the codes of Parisian
femininity ripple and reflect. Seen through
the season’s aquatic lens,
rockpool and
reef shades of sand and kelp green,
turquoise, oyster grey and chartreuse
radiate a tropical glow against the glare of
optic white and black.
Technical elements collide with fluid textures in
an exercise of evocation and transformation, for
silhouettes that reveal soft, floating fabrications
and skin in equal measure. Keyhole tailoring in terry
THE INFINITE
BEAUTY OF
PLANET’S
OCEANS
cloth unveils colour fields of bright satin or halter
bandeau tops in slinky Milano knit, and a peak lapel
jacket is deconstructed as a gilet, bustier or flowing
chiffon paréo dress. Anemone polka dots and sea
flora create solarized graphic moments in crèpe
column skirts layered with fishnet knits, and formfitting
Lycra bodies zip into scuba hoods.

Referencing surfer’s
THE CODES OF
FEMININITY
wetsuits and boardshorts,
gabardine culottes flare with cut-out hip details,
trousers are split with bonded ankle zips and modular
drawstring skirts bubble in soft paperbag volumes
above the knee.
In a playful wink to the world of watersports,
accessories mirror the collection’s textures and tones,
from terry towel or 3D printed mesh mules with
glossy cylinder ‘snorkel’ heels to rubber ‘flipper’ bags
and molded rock shoes.
In a sensory overload of vibrant colour
and rapid movement, an immersive short
film entitled ‘Tomorrow’s Mermaids’
explores the collection in dialogue with
the awesome power of the elements.
Conceived as a hybrid encounter of physical
and digital interaction, graceful gestures
of fabric shroud the body as an LED runway
set is engulfed by walls of water and
models plunge like sirens into the blue. A
dynamic photographic portfolio furthers
the sensation of perpetual movement
inherent to the season.
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PAGE 326 PAGE 327
Technical elements collide with fluid textures
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T I O N : L I S I H E R R E B R U G H & R U S H E M Y B O T T E R
© C O U R T E S Y O F N I N A R I C C I
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

NINAMOUNAH
NATURAL
SENSES
w w w . n i n a m o u n a h .. n ll
Ninamounah launches The Fertile, the Spring
Summer 2022 Collection of the Amsterdam based
brand, was presented at Paris Fashion Week.
True to the vision of cre- ative director Ninamounah
Langestraat, the new proposal of the fashion house
receives inspiration from the most instinctive natural
senses that fuel the firm’s unique personality. Found
throughout the collection in her most personal
collection yet, Ninamounah features referenc- es
to the natural world incorporating bodily visuals
combined with fluid lines that aim to celebrate a
sense of lust and fertility.
Inspiration
from the
most
instinctive
natural
senses
that fuel
the firm’s
unique
personality
Defined by the flesh
of each wearer, the
garments adapt to the
human shape molding
V-shaped
waistbands
on flowy trousers and
guiding the viewer’s
eyes towards the mons veneris using high cut body blouses, signature silhouette of the brand. Following
this very natural sensuality defined by the designer, other pieces drape and wrap fabrics to fabricate
329
voluptuous impressions resulting in a compelling and appealing visual narrative. Silk garments envelope
the waist and strapped tops hold onto the neck and shoulders, featuring swirling slithery lines that take
on a feminine spatiality. Tension is created between the flowing gar- ments and the structurality given by
leather belts wrapped around hips and limbs.
C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : N I N A M O U N A H L A N G E S T R A A T
P H : N I K O L A L A M B U R O V

A butterfly, a symbol of fertility and transformation is a
key element to the collection. It lands in
the hair, circles around the hips as a belt, creates a
glistening dress and various accessories. The influence
of Dutch contemporary artist Kinke Kooi’s work is
felt in the undulating folds and organic contiguity
of strings of pearls in the butterfly dress, made of
genuine butterflies and jade pearls. The neutral colours
of the collection, applied in leather and satin, are
accompanied by a luscious green and a contrasting
purple in laces and silky fabrics, as well as goopy prints
revealing composi- tions of sexual indulgences.
The garments adapt to the human shape
The collection’s audiovisual piece is inspired by
the Swedish midsummer, in which the phallic
may- pole is stuck in the ground to fertilize the
dirt. The film is shot in a lush grass field, with
models walking in a choreography that mimics
the seasonal ritual. In the background plays Cherry
A KEY
ELEMENT
TO THE
COLLECTION
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
Bomb by The Runaways. The fruit often refers to a
person’s virginity.
The punk-rock tune reinterprets the cherry and
claims it as a symbol of lust and rock. Ninamounah
takes a holistic approach to the social construct
that is virginity.
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T I O N : N I N A M O U N A H L A N G E S T R A A T
P H : N I K O L A L A M B U R O V

OTTOLINGER
Ottolinger Spring/Summer 2022 is on edge,
contemplative and radiant energy.
Staying true to our sensuous Elf core the collection
blossoms in a brisk and fluctuant ecosystem:
Ablaze Florescence, a rugged Obsidian Archipelago
in bloom.
A sea of gelled pink lava shot through with the
raw luxuriance emanating from resilient rock
foliage : Green Citrus, Baby Lime , Healing Herbs,
Ne w Sage , Aromatic Chartreuse for a New Day ,
interlaced with wind -strewn Bougainville a, Deep
Corals and Sea Salt Denim, all sprayed by a
crashing turquoise surf.
Nuances and moods sync with the disjointed
beauty of the work by the artist Lucie Stahl,
transferred for this season onto Signature Mesh
pieces, alongside sinuous ribbed knits wrapping
and snaking close around our bodies like wild
vines, keeping us coolly in control, sleek and
agile to explore.
As darkness falls we keep on trekking. Clad in
painted denim, hot pants, Metallic Suiting, Glam-
Fi Maxi Coats and Saturnine Cocktail dresses in
dark obsidian and lava pink , futuristically sculpted
into Crescent silhouettes, we descend on an
32
intergalactic summer storm night.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
w w w . o t t o l i n g e r . c o m
A RADIANT
ENERGY
The collection blossoms in a brisk and fluctuant ecosystem
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T I O N : C O S I M A G A D I E N T & C H R I S T A B Ö S C H
© C O U R T E S Y O F O T T O L I N G E R

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T I O N : G U I L L A U M E H E N R Y
P H : M A R C H I B B E R T
w w w . p a t o u . c o m
LA PANTAISIE
PATOU
Drawing a daydream, With ink at the seams,
Patou speaks in volumes! A parka cloak and cavalier cuffs,
Crown buckers, mini tea cups, Golden Gustave Doré! A tale of
Patou partout!
34
Queen of her taeecl,
she receives In grandificent sleeves
Patou della Verità, voilà!
Can you guess?
C’est la Pantaisie Patouesque!
PAGE 15
Patou speaks in volumes!

36
A TOTAL LOOK
COMPLETELY
MADE WITH
JERSEY,
PHISIQUE DU ROLE
COOL, LIGHT
AND IN A
NATURAL
The company is located in Carpi,
in the north of Italy , which has
been a textile district of Italian
excellence for over 50 years.
Their production is completely
made in Italy. The raw materials
are from Italian companies and
when they are not, they are dyed
or processed in Italy.
They give priority to raw materials
of natural origin, and in case
they’re artificial or synthetic
they’re recycled. Their suppliers
all have green certifications
and implement sustainability
policies. Processing is zero km,
and subcontracting takes place
almost exclusively in the district.
Many garments are labelled with
the producer’s label of the raw
material, so that the origin of the
fibre can be traced.
Most of their garments are shipped folded
and without hangers, drastically reducing
the environmental impact of packaging,
a consolidated practice in Europe and
worldwide.
Producing quality garments is their flag,
buying fewer but long-lasting garments is
definitely a green act. Raising consumers’
awareness in this direction is them
fundamental philosophy.
NATURAL
FIBRE
w w w . p h i s i q u e d u r o l e . c o m
FIBRE.
A ONE-WAY
KIND OF
AESTHETICS,
WITH A DESIRE
FOR AN
ANDROGYNOUS
STYLE
© C O U R T E S Y O F P H I S I Q U E D U R U L E

RAF SIMONS
FLASHES OF A FUTURE ROMANCE IN A WORLD FULL OF NOISES
READING
WRITING
DANCING
KISSING
LICKING
SLEEPING
CRYING
LEADING
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
38
w w w . r a f s i m o n s . c o m
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T I O N : R A F S I M O N S
© C O U R T E S Y O F R A F S I M O N S

40
REBIRTH
ITALY
© C O U R T E S Y O F R E B I R T H I T A L Y
NOT JUST A LINE OF JEWELRY
From the love for nature and the
protection of the environment,
and from the passion for creativity,
craftsmanship and attention to detail
typical of Made in Italy, in 2010 the
Rebirth Italy brand was created: not
just a line of jewelry, but a design
collection of “wearable sculptures”.
The inspiration comes from imperial
Rome and Ancient Egypt: cultures in
which the jewel was an essential key
of female sensuality.
The contemporaneity of
the line is reflected in the
materials: metal combined
with recycled leathers or
fabrics.
The metal sheet, the result
of 2 years of research,
is very light, versatile,
hypoallergenic and totally
recyclable, it maintains an
unchanged brilliance over
time.
Its malleability generates
a continuous sense of
movement and infinite
plays of light and lightdark
effects that enhance
the complexion.
The particular processing
makes each article
adaptable to the body: all
models have ergonomic
shapes.
PASSION
FOR CREATIVITY
W E A R A B L E S C U L P T U R E S

EACH
ELEMENT
IS UNIQUE
The collection, even if of
large volumes, is ultra light:
minimum weight is 2 grams
for earrings to a maximum of
40 grams for a necklace. The
precious leathers and fabrics all
come from processing residues
(bags, shoes and clothes) and
thus find a new life. Even very
small leftovers are not left out,
which can instead become
w w w . r e b i r t h - i t a l y . i t
an absolutely exclusive piece:
one of the characteristics of
the line is that, thanks to the
craftsmanship, each element
is unique and unrepeatable, as
well as the wearer.
PAGE 342 PAGE 343

SAVING THE CORALS
L E O N A R D P A R I S
S C H I A P A R E L L I
A N D R E W G N
RENDEZ-VOUS
V A L E N T I N O
V I V I E N N E W E S T W O O D
D R I E S V A N N O T E N
P H : R A F A E L P A V A R O T T I
M A I S O N M A R G I E L A
The Surrealist’s Holiday
C O P E R N I
345
Are you ready
TO CHOOSE
the shoes of next
spring summer ?
N O M A D E
“Splendor in the Sun”
E L I E S A A B
D A N I E L E A N C A R A N I
INSPIRATION

ROCHAS
Colors glow in a harlequin palette of cobalt,
lemon and flame reds that smoulder against
charcoal and smoke. Leather crackles in
varnished lambskin, metallic brocades dissolve
Nearly a century since the young couturier
Marcel Rochas dazzled in Paris, an oneric
underworld of strange beauty pulses
through the Rochas SS 2022 collection
designed by Charles de Vilmorin.
Paraded through the onorate salon on
Mona von Bismarck’s Parisian fantasia,
cinematic vignettes underpin vibrant
new expressions of a poetic world on fire.
into chiffon pleats, and flame lilies blossom
over tattoo hosiers and dazzling embroidered
jewels. Traced across cloth in silvery flames,
broderies anglaise figures and nature morte
jacquard, de Vilmorin’s intricate illustrations
converge with expressions of graphic purity,
from fringe-beaded poplin checks and optic
white tailoring to monochrome organza ruffles
and halter tops draped in crushed mousseline.
A master of Surreal figuration, de Vilmorin’s plume
conjures an illustrated universe of women: curlicues
of black ink that reveal androgyne bodies in motion,
expressionist portraits, and the dreamlike remnants
of an ancestral home. Weaving through a labyrinth
of heightened gestures and emotion, the silhouette
sublimates classical shapes with new lightness,
deconstructing the whimsy of cotton dresses and
346
parachute skirts hitched in tumbling volumes, crisp
shirts unbuttoned in peeling drapes and gowns that
glint in tiers of flaming plissé.
w w w . r o c h a s . c o m
An oneric
underworld
of strange
beauty pulses
through
the Rochas
SS 2022
collection
designed by
Charles de
Vilmorin

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R C H A R L E S D E V I L M O R I N
© C O U R T E S Y O F R O C H A S
THE SILHOUETTE
SUBLIMATES CLASSICAL
SHAPES WITH NEW
LIGHTNESS
PAGE 348 PAGE 349
Accenting the season’s enchanted
personage with steampunk flourish, an
array of platform motocross boots and peep
toe sandals are embellished with stained
glass beading, piercings, and tarnished
buckles whilst square toe cuissards are
trimmed in undulating organza waves.
Androgyne bodies in motion
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

Sadaels presented its spring
summer 2022 collection on the
closing day of the official Paris
Fashion Week calendar. The
creative universe of the brand
puts in tension the antagonist
Flemish and Argentinian
heritage of its creator. The
brand tries to highlight this
southamerican heritage and
materials in a kitsch and ironic
way filtered by Antwerp’s lens.
Fluid materials are transformed
by architectural cuts, a midpoint
between conceptual antifashion’s
experimentation from
Antwerp and Latin- American
intuitive sensuality. This tension
aims to deconstruct, rethink and
give value to their roots.
They want to highlight and
enrich the Argentine traditions,
materials and typical garments
of the gaucho and Pampean culture, but with a satirical spirit, not solemn or traditional, urban and youthful
that comes from nothing less than the academy of Antwerp. They believe that Argentina is much more
than a caricature of a gaucho and a horse, they have multiple layers of amazing and hybrid influences
that go far back, from ancestral cultures to Italian and Spanish immigrant influences that make their
50
culture rich and hybrid. In this logic their SS22 digital PFW presentation showcases a fashion film directed
by Macarena Rubio and produced by Poster.
The short film introduces an intimist family portrait, getting ready for a delusional wedding taking place
in a typical ¨conventillo¨ from Buenos Aires. The narrative uses a kitsch, colorful and eclectic atmosphere,
dear to the argentinean immigrant urban life.
w w w . s a d a e l s . c o m
SADAELS
A CREATIVE
UNIVERSE
Their SS22 collection is called
“Cumbiancheta”, referring to the
cumbia of the 1990s. This retro
tropical musical genre of pan-Latin
American origins, had a trailblazing
impact in our popular culture. Neon
colours, decadence and opulence
represent this golden era, infused
by the economic fantasy that 1
peso was equal to 1 dollar, marked
the aesthetics of our society in
the period, transforming Gianni
Versace’s Miami in the cultural
epitome. While consumption was
out of control,neoliberalism ruined
internally the country: our factories
were emptied and their artisanal
savoir-faire were progressively lost,
crisis was just around the corner.
Oblivious, extremely tanned,blonde
and in animal print lower middle
classes now enjoyed eating Pizza with
Champagne,and our president rode
the streets on a red Ferrari and hung
out with the Rolling Stones on tv.

FLEMISH AND ARGENTINIAN HERITAGE
The film seeks to cast a light on their strong bloodline The leather was worked in unconventional ways:
rituals, a picturesque and festive B-side that invites macramé braided into accessories or pieces that
us to think about the importance of family ties are found between clothing and leather goods.
in their culture, sometimes absurd, sometimes These accessories called “sadaels” (a play on words
suffocating, undeniably intense. The collection between society anonyme Daels and with the
is inspired by the 90’s minimalism turned kitsch, concept of saddle (SADDLE in English) are based
uber-sexuality in the form of boob implants and the on a reflection on female clothing and the absence,
nostalgic period of 1920’s, when Parisians referred from construction, of the ability to wear without the
to Argentinians as “riche comme des Argentins”, need for an extra bag or accessory. In addition to
an utopia once achieved that never came back. leather, the novelties are presented in neoprene,
The use of leather is central to this collection in cotton poplins and Italian silks. The color palette
counterpoint to the use of latex and vinyl materials. ranges from black, neons, red and white.
CONCEPTUAL
ANTI-FASHION’S
EXPERIMENTATION
FROM ANTWERP AND
LATIN- AMERICAN
INTUITIVE SENSUALITY
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R J U A N H E R N A N D E Z D A E L S
P H : S A N - A G O C A N - L L O
PAGE 352 PAGE 353
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

THE SURREALIST’S HOLIDAY
SCHIAPARELLI
“ This season, as always, I was thinking of the
woman behind this Maison: Elsa Schiaparelli,
who gave this house not only its name, but its
identity. The term “psycho chic” may not have
existed in Elsa’s time (nor, admittedly, now! )
and yet it’s how I always explain her and her
vision to myself: this was a woman fascinated
by the dawning of the technological age, of
advances in fabric and engineering, of the
avant- garde in film and art.
She was a patron of the arts, and an artist herself,
but she was also a scientist of a kind, someone
who celebrated innovation and progress of all
kinds: creative, social, cultural.
And yet who was she at home, or on holiday?
Who was she when she stepped off the stage,
when she was alone, away from the glittering
Parisian demimonde?
355

ELSA IN
THE CITY
black silk dress, one that appears to
have been draped directly on its wearer;
or a sweeping belted caftan made of
tropical silk viscose, its red-and-white
stripes nodding to the iconic beach
umbrellas that, in summer, adorn the
Mediterranean coastline.
ELSA ON HOLIDAY
What does the Schiaparelli woman wear when she’s
not—to use a beloved term from drag serving?
This collection offers a suggestion. On one hand,
there is Elsa in the city: Here, the codes of the house
(the Surrealist jewelry, the playful, pliable fabric
On the other hand, there is Elsa on
holiday—though these are not just
holiday clothes for a physical destination,
but for a state of mind as well: They’re
pieces for a literal escape, but also
breasts, the exaggeration and displacement of
an escape from
reality, a wardrobe
body parts) meet twists on classic ‘70s-era French
ready-to-wear language—horsebit closures are
re-imagined in Schiaparelli hardware; the classic
miniskirt-and-jacket set is remade in white denim,
trimmed in crispy patent leather; a floral print is
remixed into a slouchy, sequined pantsuit.
for a Lynchian landscape, where
the imagination can roam without
boundaries. For this state of being and
mind, there is fantasy swimwear, like a
multicolor striped knit onesie made of
dry hand mercerized cotton; or a fluid,
PAGE 356 PAGE 357

PLUS
REAL NEW YORK
WEDDINGS
THE SILHOUETTES ARE EASY
The silhouettes are easy, but the spirit of the
house—its daring, its hatred of the banal and
the good-enough—remain intact. And for every
look, there are updates on our accessories:
oversized earrings and necklaces in brushedmatte
finishes; snakeskin shoulder bags in
that same umbrella stripe; a polite-but-not
variation on our classic Secret bag, named for
its signature hardware padlock.
So who is City Elsa and Seaside Elsa? She’s
refined but barbaric. Chic but a little vulgar.
Conservative but uninhibited. Tailored but also
relaxed. Private but also performative.
w w w . s c h i a p a r e l l i . c o m
PAGE 358 PAGE 359

These dualities were what made Elsa who she was,
but they’re also what makes every woman who wears
Schiaparelli who she is as well. She’s irreducible, and
because of that, inimitable. She remains who she is
even when no one’s watching.
C R E A T I V E D I R E C T I O N : D A N I E L R O S E B E R R Y
© C O U R T E S Y O F S C H I A P A R E L L I
A WOMAN
REFINED
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE PAGE 360 PAGE 361

PAGE 362 PAGE 363
363

PAGE 364 PAGE 365

Montecarlo Automobiles was present at the 26th Monaco Yacht Show which took place from September
22 to 25, 2021 in the famous Port Hercule in the Principality of Monaco.
During this unique and exceptional event in the world, the future programs of Montecarlo Automobiles
were presented. On Thursday, September 23rd, an Official Presentation was organized with a real-world
premiere of two prototypes of cars made especially for this event, ÈTÈ and MIG20 and other trendy and
innovative sea tools such as ALA50, ÈTÈ and JETMIG.
This international presentation marked the Brand rebirth with the entry of a new President, Bogdan
Skutkiewicz, and a new CEO, Giorgio Stirano, who support Fulvio Maria Ballabio, Founder and Ambassador
of the brand, guarantor of a commitment renewed over the years and which, thanks to the new upcoming
projects, is going to reach a new level of excellence.
Sports champions, international artists, personalities from Monegasque institutions and entrepreneurs
participated in the event.
PAGE 366 PAGE 367

Among the guests: from the sporting sector, Stéphane Richelmi, world champion racing, Alex Caffi, former
Formula 1 racing driver; in the entertainment and culture sector, Lorena Baricalla, international Ballet Star,
singer and actress.
On this occasion, an episode of the series “Lorena & Friends” was filmed for the American network JUL-TV
produced by PromoArt MonteCarlo Production.
The broadcast of real life, art, luxury and the art of lifestyle illustrated Montecarlo Automobiles with the
participation of Bogdan Skutkiewicz and guests of the event.
Were also present Marcos Marin, Official Artist of the Fondation Prince Albert II de Monaco; from the
institutional field, Christian Tornatore, Automobile Club de Monaco General Commissioner; Jacques
Pastor, deputy mayor and sport advisor of the City of Monaco; from luxury and lifestyle bloggers as well as
Monaco Yacht Show 2021 Ambassadors, Davide Cesaro and Seyma Yigit ; from the world of business and
sport, Johnny Cecotto Jr., CEO and co-founder of Stars Monte Carlo.
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PAGE 368 PAGE 369

SHANG XIA
371
Relaxed tailoring subverts the formality of
barathea wool mohair and matte silk cady whilst
lustre and transparency elevate sartorial and sport
shapes in liquid faille, organdy and double satin.
The absolute forms of triangle, circle and square
AN UNEXPECTED BALANCE OF EAST AND WEST
The spring summer 2022 collection, the firstdesigned
by Yang Li, is a manifesto for the duality inherent
within Shang Xia, an unexpected balance of east
and west, light and shadow, past and future, motion
and emotion. endless optimism meets avantgarde
elegance and nature, technology.
Romantic gestures executed with ultimate precision create a warorobe imbued with the philosophy of
invisible might: high minimalism in garment-making that merges with the concept of light both matter
and a medium unto itself. Sharp planes of dreamlike colour denote a silhouette that glows with promise in
lemon and acid yellows, neon persimmon and acid rose, lotus pink and Shang Xia cobalt blue. Devoted to
paramount materiality, the collection traverses density from svelte double-faced cashmere and galvanized
silver calf hair to gossamer silks, ultrafine jersey and quilted lambskin plongé.
scale up and down for both function and detail
, creating doubled sleeve structures, drape and
volume. Epitomised by the Shang Xia triangle bag,
these essential shapes materialise throughout as
bubble slides, circle zips and satin finish studs.
Industrial design processes applied to fashion
result in sprayed typography, lacquered surfaces
and custom aluminium hardware.
A new standard is set as archetypes of simplicity
are honed to perfection: the overcoat, teddy,
perfecto, caban, kaftan, shirt dress, twin set,
tuxedo and trench are addressed as postmodern
relics - evoking classical connotations in a new,
liberated context.
w w w . s h a n g x i a . c o m
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T I O N : Y A N G L I
© C O U R T E S Y O F S H A N G X I A

SHIATZY
CHEN
LE
CIRQUE
w w w . s h i a t z y c h e n . c o m / #
With CIRCUS as the theme of the 2022
SS collection, we see Design Director Ms.
Shiatzy Chen drawing inspirations from the
playfulness and brisk joy inherent in the
word, and demonstrated such inspirations
in the form of the western s tyle circus and
the tiger pattern with oriental implications.
Daring to breakthrough and take on
challenges despite the constraints and limits
faced in life, mesmerizing the audience with
a mystical ambiance and a spectacular circus
show.
Since SHIATZY CHEN joined FHCM in 2008,
she is again participating in Paris Fashion
Week via online fashion sh ow due to the
influence of the coronavirus pandemic
worldwide.
Entering the venue of extreme sports, once
completely beyond the imagination of fashion,
the winding and changing terrain brings the
audience into a dimension of surprise s and
amazement.
The gradual illumination of neon lights, clowns
stepping in formation and leading the troupe
in boun cy joy, the magician waving the
baton, models traversing amidst rows of stunt
performers, a blend of acrobatic dance a nd
cyr wheel performance demonstrating force
and beauty all in one, storming new ideas with
the mix and
373
match of or iental and western
cultures, and creating moments too splendid
to miss.
This season responds to the imagination of
circus with vibrant and extravagant looks.

Lace and lotus leaf layered fluffy sleeves,
pleated lace collar, and fluffy rounded
skirts and dresses propped by bustles,
opening this collection with celeb ratory
cheer. This season’s original print can be
seen here and there in this collection as the
classic elements of circus. Representing
adventures and challenges: the hightemperature
blue flame hoop, the crawling
tiger implicating an orient al image, the
acrobat swinging between the ropes.
A dimension of surprises and amazement
Representing bustling amusements: the classic
circus argyle pattern, the magician’s white
pigeons, the cheering streamers, and the curtain
tail roses. From dots to planes, the elements are
tr ansformed into patterns and taking forms of
embroidery, drawing, and jacquard, or at times
the classic circus patterns o f stripes and argyle
pattern. The colors in the season see rich bright
orange and red inviting everyone to a festive
show, sky blue and pink mix and matched as
dreamy and brilliant anticipations, then moving
on to classic black and white da shed with the
occasional orange, highlighting splendor wellmatched.
The feature of this season lies in the
combination of classic mandarin collar shirts and
dresses with the fluffy sleeves and lace collars
being detachable accessories, a creative novelty
fusing the western and oriental cultures, and
turning par ts of the clothing into accessories. In
addition to dresses that can be assembled with
different parts, there are also many items that
are gender-neutral and inspired by the circus
magician. The suit vest, bloomers, flared jacket,
making the tall and sleek silhouette; the pointed
toe strap on Muller shoes and pointed toe casual
shoes, profiling the female magician which
both carefree and romantic. The accessories,
including bracelet, necklace, and earrings are
also inspired by the circus, trailing the jump
through fire hoops while using different layers to
create fun, delicately responding to the spirit of
this season which is daring to breakthrough and
take on challenges. Handbags are inspired by
the design of retro bowling bags. Covered in the
original patterns which comprise of drawings of
circus tiger, fire hoop, white pigeon, and curtain
tail roses, a spectacular display of the Circus
elements.
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T I O N : S H I A T Z Y C H E N
P H : S A N K O C H I
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
PAGE 374 PAGE 375

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T I O N : I R A K L I R U S A D Z E
P H : D A V I T G I O R G A D Z E
SITUATIONIST
The Collection unfolds the story of heritage carrying a hope
Air Of
Uncertainty
Situationist SS22 collection titled “Air Of
Uncertainty” is exploring the surrounding,
current situations of mind, constructed chaos,
objects and individual body of work. Process
of picking, selecting as well as declining. Past
few months have been extremely alarming,
uncertain and deconstructive and somehow
hopeful.
For majority of people in different fields, especially
in fashion and art, it felt like a repetitive
dead end. Currently it feels like there’s no
space or air for planning ahead but there’s an
excitement to share, to tell, to show and point,
look there’s something right here with us that
matters the most.
We’re extremely happy to be able to travel
from Tbilisi, Georgia and showcases their
SS22 pieces with their merged selected instal-
76
lations. For some it’s less complex but for Situationist
it’s always a longer road to achieve
the ability to tell.
The Collection unfolds the story of heritage
carrying a hope.
w w w . s i t u a t i o n i s t o f f i c i a l . c o m
The story of heritage carrying a hope
Exploring the
surrounding
current
situations
of mind
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

A
FRESH
AND
CHEEKY
SPIRIT
w w w . d i o r . c o m
DIOR
Make Up
Peter Philips, creative and image
Director for Dior Makeup, created
a makeup look that enhances the
eyes, emphasized by a double
eyeliner with a sixties touch, for the
Spring-Summer 2022 Collection
by Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Peter Philips explains: “I
highlighted the eyes, elongating
them with a double line of black
eyeliner that was graphic but light,
in a fresh and cheeky spirit with a
A sixties touch
sixties vibe.”
379
© C O U R T E S Y O F D I O R

THEBE
MAGUGU
THE GENEALOGY SS22
COLLECTION BY SOUTH
AFRICAN FASHION DESIGNER
THEBE MAGUGU IS A LOOK
INWARD TOWARDS THE
DESIGNER’S MOST CHERISHED
POSSESSION: HIS FAMILY.
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : T H E B E M A G U G U E
P H : P A U L S A M U E L S
GENEALOGY
Set-up as a roundtable discussion, Thebe
Magugu, Iris Magugu - his mother- and Esther
Magugu - his aunt - proceed to unpack a box
of family photos which illustrate significant
moments in all their upbringings. The brand has
always cited very specific references and motifs,
which are all chronicled and broken down in
this documentary. The collection pick-pockets a
variety of era’s of his grandmothers masterfully
pleated skirts and draped blouses from the 1950’s,
women, living under the same house, sharing
and workshopping clothes out of necessity, each
developed an interesting and hybridised sense
of style, which could oscillate from 1990’s Stealth
Wealth to 1890’s Devotion. Exploring the brands
roots, the collection features a prominent print
inspired by the Sotho culture’s re-contextualized
wax print known as Seshweshwe. Thebe Magugu
replaces the iconography often printed on the
cotton calico in favour of regal portraits of his
Their second shoe proposition, titled the After-Tears
Kitten Heel, feature prominent ‘ears’ which jut out in
front of the shoe, with a hand-stitched border which
runs all around its edge. In South Africa, ‘After-Tears’
is known as a celebratory gathering after a funeral.
“It’s a tough, feminine shape I have come to associate
greatly with my late grandmother Matiego Magugu,
and her chic dignity”, says Thebe Magugu. Its sharp
toe continues the shape of the brand’s previous
season’s ‘Sunday Best Boot’. Accessories this season
his mothers leg-of-mutton sleeves from the
1960’s and her subsequent rebellion in the 1970’s
with improbably short skirts, which his family in
jest refers to as her ‘2 Centimetre Clothes’ era.
In the 80’s, his aunt Esther experimented with
localised punk, inspired by the rising star of that
time Brenda Fassie - who TIME Magazine had just
named ‘The Madonna of the Township’. All these
own family, who are encased in ornamental
ovals step and repeated over the length of the
fabric. “The idea of re-contextualization has held
my fascination for quite some time, because it
intersects ideas of making do with what
you have and finding use, even beauty, in objects,
structures, words and histories that were meant
to take-down and destroy you”.
involve a coin stamped with the brands Sisterhood
Emblem, which continues the collection’s theme
of heritage, heirloom and the found object.
Exaggerated doeks (head-pieces) favoured at milestone
events like weddings and wakes, have been
done using pieces of left-over fabric from the cutting
room floor, created in collaboration with Cape-Town
based milliner Crystal Birch.
w w w . t h e b e m a g u g u . c o m
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

TOM VAN DER BORGHT
TIME
FOR
LOVE
FOR THIS NEW EDITION
OF THE FESTIVAL OF
HYÈRES, TOM VAN DER
BORGHT PRESENTED
HIS NEW COLLECTION
“TIME FOR LOVE”.
© C o u r t e s y o f T o m V a n D e r B o r g h t
The clothing becomes a living metaphor of the
connection between humans. After winning the
35th edition of the Hyères festival, Tom sought to
make a transition between his two collections!
Last year, his universe was the essence of his
inspiration, a kind of “take it or leave it”.
For this new season, Tom is less frontal and invites
us to enter his universe while making it wearable
through pieces with more ready to wear cuts. In the
collection, you will see a lot of pearls, likes earrings
attached to the clothes, patched peaches on the
green and purple look.
w w w . t o m v a n d e r b o r g h t . c o m
On one hand we find his love for sportwear and
on the other hand his love for delicate materials
and details. To keep this sense of details, Tom has
collaborated with Maison Lesage, Hubert Barrere,
House of Paloma and Maison Michel. Tom creates
an important hat collection to share a message: the
hats are an answer to the Covid situation. Rather
than covering the mouth, the eyes are covered.
For instance, you can find the iconic double hat on
look 14 which was a first in terms of realization for
Maison Michel. Tom is considering sustainability as
383
a responsibility that we have to take, it is something
that has to come from the inside. Tom is not working
on seasons and gender. He will not decide who will
wear his clothes. So he prefers to create a lasting
piece that you will wear for a long time.
New luxury is the future of LUXURY

THE DYNAMIC
CURVES
The movement of fabric
UJOH
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
Seeking the beautiful lines created by the The movement of the neatly flared
relationship between the body and the clothes. fabric frame the dynamic curves,
It is not an exaggeration of the body, but the the slits open up the fabric more
movement of the clothes themselves, which freely and the layers of depth create
move to evoke new emotions and bring a sense expressions with graphically incised
of lightness and comfort.
curves.
It is with the idea of creating
beautiful lines that can be
perfectly adapted to your daily
wardrobe, that they have created
a collection that is as unique
as it is beautiful, and that can
resonate within your heart Some
characteristic materials were
used to create the collection, such
as moss green pinstripe and satin
fabric with geometric patterns,
as if there was tile embroidered
on it. The prints were designed
by Kanako Sasaki, a painter they
have been collaborating with
since last season. While designing
the harmony with the cutting, the
patterns express the dynamism
of a strong brush stroke and the
power of overlapping colors.
High-gauge cardboard knitwear
made of recycled polyester help
expressing some awareness
on sustainability, which has
been consciously added to the
collection this season.
THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN
385
THE BODY AND THE CLOTHES
w w w . u j o h - a m r . c o m
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R M I T S U R U N I S H I Z A K I
P H : K O D A I I K E M I T S U

ELEONORA GHILARDI
Charming like Champagne,
it’s aprecious metal alloy,
ALWAYS GLAMOROUS
In its effervescence
it recalls the
Prosecco bubbles.
SOPHISTICATED, ELEGANT.
Sparkling
Collection
are closely related
to three types
of wine
Inspired by rosè wine,
it has warm,
enveloping tones.
MODERN, UNUSUAL.
w w w . e l e o n o r a g h i l a r d i . c o m
PAGE 386 PAGE 387

In UMA WANG 2022 SS collection, the designer
brings us to enhance the best relation you can
have with clothes, that happened when clothes
resemble a soul mate, your soul mate. Clothing
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : U M A W A N G
P H : O J O S T U D I O S
shouldn’t be a carrier of desire but part of the
art of living….
The beauty of a young body one day will
disappear but the personality is forever.
UMA
WANG
IN HARMONY
WITH YOUR
SPIRIT AND
AESTHETICS
The clothes that make
you want to live in a
long time are the one in
389
harmony with your spirit
Your soul mate
and aesthetics, these
clothes will sublimate
your beauty and your
own beauty will magnify
them.

THE ART
OF LIVING
w w w . u m a w a n g . c o m
IN HARMONY WITH
YOUR SPIRIT AND
AESTHETICS
Such clothes can be the treasure in your closet, loyal to your soul and never let you bored.
The design details of this season continue the consistent characteristics of UMAWANG aesthetic, but
more concise and effortless, with a stronger tendency for the daily “uniform”...
The keywords are: classical green in
Renaissance oil paintings.
Overripe pink rose, black and white
with a fluid sense of volume, overlapped
diamond-shaped grid with a delicate
chromaticity, large sleeves, knot. Knot,
knot…
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WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

UNGARO
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Few of nature’s creations can match their wondrous
combinations of color, form, and function.
Energized by a recent trip to the French Riviera,
where glamour and style mix with an illustrious
history,
He was taken by the visual splendor of this
magnificent region where women dress effortlessly
chic by day and elegant at night. Breathtaking views
of the scintillating Mediterranean Sea, cobblestone
streets and lush mountains sparked the inspiration
for textures, prints, and embroideries that capture
the essence of this luxurious enclave.
He infused bright colors and bold patterns inspired
by Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, where you can get lost
in the tranquility of a beautiful oasis and wander
through extravagant tropical gardens.
L’ENVOLÉE
While doing research for the Spring-Summer collection,
Designer Kobi Halperin explored the history of Ungaro
and what immediately caught his eye was the iconic
butterfly top. With its retro glamour and Saint-Tropez
spirit, it created an indelible fashion moment through
its pure celebration of femininity. That moment’s
sensibilities, embraced by the modern and sophisticated
woman, served as his inspiration. Butterflies have always
been revered as exquisite creatures of delicate beauty.
393

EXQUISITE CREATURES
OF DELICATE
BEAUTY
Creating an indelible
fashion moment
through its pure
celebration of
femininity
Grace and elegance
While butterflies represent natural forms
of perfected beauty, they also exist
metaphorically as expressions of freedom and
flight. Indeed, that beauty arrives through a
literal metamorphosis, a transformation from
one form to another. From the chrysalis a
timeless beauty takes flight and the Ungaro
woman once again soars with grace and
elegance.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
NATURAL FORMS
OF PERFECT
BEAUTY
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : K O B I H A L P E R I N
P H : R A L P H W E N I G
PAGE 394 PAGE 395

The complicity and the
experience in the world
of fashion and art of
Anna and Maria Rosaria
Supino, two extraordinary
sisters whose roots are
rooted in the wonderful
Salerno land, has given
rise, through their love
and healthy feelings, to a
wonderful challenge: the
birth of “BAIADERA”, a
brand of “hand-painted”
bags which, through
rigorously
artisanal
production, translates into
each product as a unique
and unrepeatable piece,
just like a true work of art.
The history of Baiadera is a fantastic journey through the colors and scents of the
HAND
PAINTING
BAG
396
w
warm land of Campania that Anna and Maria Rosaria wisely express and translate
thanks to the production of their bags. All Baiadera collections can be defined as
a real “ART FASHION”. The deep knowledge of leathers, the search for innovative
techniques of “hand-made” painting and the extraordinary creativity and intuition of
the Supino sisters for aesthetic and graphic looks, which no woman would give up,
has allowed them to create exclusive bags collections, unique and inimitable: a real
“must have” for all those women who do not want to give up luxury, elegance and
originality.
Owning a Baiadera bag does not only mean choosing an exclusive and original style,
but it is surprising to find that it turns into an accessory that you can never give up,
incredibly discovering that you always have it with you on every occasion.
w w . b a i a d e r a . c o m

Valentin
Yudashkin
EMOTIONAL ATMOSPHERE
FILLED WITH NEW IDEAS
AND TRENDS OF ART.
ton with silk. Decoration of
chiffon, muslin, gazar and silk
tulle add lightness and charm
to the images. Embroidery on
dresses is created as a painting
on canvas of the artist.
The art of Juan Miro inspired
Maestro to the new prints. A
large palette of picturesque
Valentin Yudashkin devotes the New
Collection of the spring-summer 2022
season to the art of painting.
The theme of art has always inspired
architects, designers and masters of
applied art. Earlier, Maestro turned to the
Russian avant-garde. This year, Valentin
Yudashkin was inspired for the new
collection by the works of great Spanish
painter Juan Miro.
Miro’s works have the freshness and easy
98
of the perception of colors. This made
it possible to return to the era of the
beginning of the XX century, rethink the
images, but maintain the same emotional
atmosphere filled with new ideas and
trends of art.
w w w . y u d a s h k i n . c o m
C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : V A L E N T I N Y U D A S H K I N
P H : A L E K S A N D R E M O S E E N K O V
Lightness, airiness, simplicity
and color were used in the
new collection of the Season.
The main task was to find
new forms, preserving the
traditions of the Valentin
Yudashkin Fashion House,
namely the variety of colors,
the use of embroidery, complex
drapes and multi-layered
sets. The collection presents
shades and design forms was
used. The beige color plays
new technological cotton an important role in the collection,
fabrics used after recycling
as well as mixed fabrics, such
as cotton with wool and cot-
as a color symbolizing
the female body as a canvas
of the artist.
LIGHTNESS, AIRINESS, SIMPLICITY AND COLOR
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

401
VALENTINO
FASHION IS ON
THE STREET AND
IT BECOMES ALIVE
AND REAL
The path is made evident in the
physicality of movement: on
the catwalk, fashion, worn by
individuals, arrives after a tour
and a detour through alleys
and sidewalks. The inversion of
w w w . v a l e n t i n o . c o m
RENDEZ-VOUS
meaning is all the more evident
and powerful as the elements
of the Valentino vocabulary are
Change of perspective. Fashion is
imagined in the studio and created in
the Atelier, but it is on the street that
it becomes alive and real, meeting the
imperfection of existence, day after day,
lit by the unique identity of the wearer.
The Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli keeps
resignifying the Valentino signs.
In a tenacious quest for life and truth, which is
essentially the urge to root a rich heritage in the
present time, he meets, and not only symbolically,
the street, with its varied and magmatic humanity.
clearer. Some even come, as they
are, from the archive: icons of the
house re-edited with philological
accuracy and labeled Valentino
Archive to travel through space
and time, encountering today’s
physicality and ways of being.

These garments undergoing a vigorous historical
displacement - the animal print coat, the white
dress worn by Marisa Berenson, the long floral
dresses photographed by Chris von Wangenheim,
are part of a stylistic weaving dominated by a quest
for a new meaning. Tailoring is reinterpreted in
the volumes and the vivid, acrylic colors; activeinspired
pieces enhance the physicality and
sensuality of the body, revealing it.
Taffetas, a symbol of Couture, is washed, beaten,
deprived of any preciousness to turn into jackets,
anoraks, oversized shirts, Bermuda shorts, the
play of additions enhanced by the contrasting
colors.
TAILORING IS REINTERPRETED IN THE
VOLUMES AND THE VIVID, ACRYLIC COLORS
PAGE 402 PAGE 403

THE STREET
WITH ITS VARIED
AND MAGMATIC
HUMANITY
Denim, worn with precious white shirts that are
decorated, inlaid with broderie anglaise, embroidered,
is another tribute to the archive. The overblown floral
prints are instinctively mixed, while embroideries
move from eveningwear to outerwear.
A TRIBUTE TO THE ARCHIVE
PAGE 404 PAGE 405

THE PHYSICALITY
AND SENSUALITY
OF THE BODY
Reconnecting with the street, in the
end, means touching the ground:
wearing boots, or flat Valentino
Garavani Roman Stud sandals, and a
re-edition of the snake sandal.
A single macro stud closes the
cleanly-designed bags.
PAGE 406 PAGE 407

THE OVERBLOWN
FLORAL PRINTS ARE
INSTINCTIVELY MIXED
C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R P I E R P A O L O P I C C I O L I
© C O U R T E S Y O F V A L E N T I N O
In the journey through
space and time, one
thing appears clearly: it
is personal identity that
creates the aesthetic, and
evolves it by fragmenting it
PAGE 408 PAGE 409
WATCH THE VIDOE HERE

VICTORIA/TOMAS
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R V I C T O R I A F E L D M A N , T O M A S B E R Z I N S
© C O U R T E S Y O F V I C T O R I A / T O M A S
THE VICTORIA/TOMAS
COLLECTIONS ARE
ENTIRELY MADE
UP OF REVERSIBLE
SILHOUETTES.
Each item is made up of two completely
different style propositions: on one side,
a basic piece for everyday life, inspired
by workwear codes and the simplicity
of the masculine wardrobe; on the
other,something a little more creative with
feminine details, like intricate embroideries
or flowing silk sleeves. Each piece of clothing
becomes double, allowing to switch
between styles depending on the mood or
the occasion.
Each item is made up of two completely different style
WATCH THE VIDOE HERE
w w w . v i c t o r i a t o m a s . c o m
TO SWITCH
BETWEEN
STYLES
411

EVERYTHING DIFFERENT,
STYLED FOR
COMFORT
LEFTOVER
FABRICS,
HAND KNITS
FROM TORN
12
GEORGETTE
PAGE 14
VIVIENNE
WESTWOOD
C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : V I V I E N N E W E S T W O O D & A N D R E A S K R O N T H A L E R
C O U R T E S Y O F V I V I E N N E W E S T W O O D

AN ICONIC
STYLE OF
FASHION
Thinking of Marilyn,
focus on pencil skirts
PAGE 414 PAGE 415

“I was thinking of a new beginning, but
in order for this to happen you have to
make space for it. This is what I have
tried to do with this collection. Hopefully
it will help me to reach new shores.”
“Theatre is a search for an expression
that is directly concerned with the
quality of living and, in that search, one
can find great purpose.” Peter Brook,
theatre director.
A search for an expression
Shorts worn as suits with sexy jackets
Lots of unisex, prints, rubber, white, black,
some rose pink, reds.
Transparent dress worn with cotton polo
shirt: white organza. Hood extended down
over breasts, worn like a bra. Cloak with
double-breasted closure, worn as dress:
white silk twill.
Same cloak worn as coat: black towelling.
Neru coat pyjama suit: crushed raspberry
damask. Man’s zipped up burka
(showpiece): black stiff-bonded silk satin,
black tulle. Shirt with hanging collar, 17th c:
white silk satin.
Dresses made from shawls.
Hats trimmed with personal effects.
“I am very
much looking
forward to
Vivienne
wearing it.
USE IT!”
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
PAGE 416 PAGE 15 417

#AKSS22
w w w . v i v i e n n e w e s t w o o d . c o m
Vivienne Westwood is one of the last
independent global fashion companies
in the world. At times thought provoking,
this brand is about more than producing
clothes and accessories. Westwood
continues to capture the imagination,
and raise awareness of environmental
and human rights issues. With a design
record spanning over forty years,
Vivienne Westwood is now recognized
as a global brand and Westwood herself
as one of the most influential fashion
designers, and activists, in the world
today.
PAGE 418 PAGE 419

WEINSANTO
THE LARGE ARCHED HEADDRESS
BECOME DRESSES
For this Spring Summer 22 season,
Weinsanto is inspired by its Alsatian
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : V I C T O R W E I N S A N T O
© C O U R T E S Y O F W E I N S A N T O
origins.
The typical headdresses of the
region, in particular the large arched
headdress, become dresses, and
traditional Alsatian facades inspire
the shapes of the dresses.
Kelsh is a traditional Alsatian fabric
in red, black and beige and is
revisited in pink and and purple, the
designer’s favorite colors. Weinsanto
has also collaborated with illustrator
Clément Louis for this season’s print
with Queentoide
Queentoide is Weinsanto’s muse.
The collection showcases
Weinsanto’s technique and
attention to detail, especially the
corsetry, she worked and pushed
with new processes to give lightness
LIGHTNESS TO IMPOSING
VOLUMES
to imposing volumes.
421

Weinsanto stays true to her style in the
creation of her accessories, the bag of the
season is inspired by the Alsatian dessert.
The bag for the SS 2022 collections is
inspired by the Alsatian dessert Kougelhof,
revisited in a giant volume.
Attention to DETAIL
For this new collection, Weinsanto has managed
to combine her taste for the show harmoniously
merged with the origins of her childhood.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
PAGE 422 PAGE 423
THE TASTE FOR THE SHOW HARMONIOUSLY MERGED WITH HER ORIGINS
w w w . w e i n s a n t o . c o m

The Summer 2022 collection is an anniversary one for
WOS brand - ten years ago the brand’s history began
with the Summer 2012 collection. The new collection
WOS
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : A N D R E Y A R T Y O M O V
P H : P O P O V A M A R I A
vastly repeats the codes of the collections of different
seasons from the beginning of the brand’s life - there
are dressing gowns, slip dresses, pajamas suits, of a
classic cut for the brand, as well as modified. The brand
has also brought back iconic elements such as ripped
collars. It took a long time to create one of the prints in
the collection; Andrey Artyomov photographed parts of
it at the Ufa Museum of Archeology and Ethnography
on his phone - this is a photo of fabrics found in
excavations at the beginning of the 20th century, which
was fragmentarily preserved. After that the brand’s
designers collected them in one print, using the colors
of the national Bashkir shawls. The second print consists
of “watercolor” flowers, redrawn from national aprons
and scarves. The basis for the print is cotton covered
with a silvery layer, so the pattern is shimmering,
acquires a three-dimensional effect and the silhouettes
of the dresses become more complex and interesting.
The headscarf theme is seen in many items of the
collection - Bashkir women wore a headscarf without
folding it to a corner, like Russian, but in a rectangle, and
this constructive line goes from the hoods of cropped
The collection includes a cap with the original coat
of arms of Ufa with a picture of a marten on a white
fabric. The main colors of the collection: lilac, white,
gray, blue, brown, violet - the palette is taken from the
national Bashkir shawl, decomposed into colors.
trench coats and fragments of scarves that seem to fall
on clothes to a square armhole and gusset. A fragment
24
of a scarf, the way it fell in a square over the figure,
forming waves and folds, is used in dresses and gives
them a ballroom silhouette. The collection contains a
vivid reference of the outfits of Bashkir pop stars of the
early 2000s, with glitter, lurex, fringe, sequins.
Collection fabrics: organic cotton, silk, linen, sequins,
traditional for the brand, fabrics with lurex, for the first
time laser cutting is used on the fabric in the form of
the Bashkir kurai ornament on the edge of the items.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
w w w . w o s b r a n d . c o

XULY.BËT
The lookbook was photographed by Ismaël
Moumin, Visual Art Director at XULY.Bët, who
focused on a curated minimalism to glorify the bring people closer together and fight social
collection while maintaining the cool & casual disparities is at the heart of XULY.Bët’s values.
attitude of the XULY.Bët woman.
For many years, Lamine Kouyaté and Rodrigo
Stylist & creative consultant Dan Sablon join Martinez had been dreaming of working with
the team and brought his contemporary and this unique artist in order to promote a dialogue
that is close to all their hearts: the inclu-
functional vision to the SS22 collection. When
it comes to the film « East Side Story » directed sion of the periphery as a creative center and
by the brilliant Leïla Sy, produced by Barbara talent pool. Leïla Sy wanted to converse with
Blanchard and her agency Black Artists Management
in collaboration with La Daronne Pro-
deepness to create an artistic piece that will
XULY.Bët by bringing her convictions and her
duction, you see the will of the director to con-
resonate for years to come.
cretize her modern version of West Side Story.
Her unique point of view of always looking to
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R L A M I N E B A D I A N K O U Y A T É
© C O U R T E S Y O F X U L Y . B Ë T
« With this Spring-Summer 2022 collection, I wanted to
be radical, I wanted to come back to the quintessence of
XULY.Bët. A quintessence that today has been purified.»
For Lamine Badian Kouyaté, this Spring-Summer 2022
collection is set to initiate an audacious direction for
XULY.Bët and its approach to the new gen. In December
2020, Vogue US editor Laird Borrelli-Persson surprised
the fashion community by reediting archive photos
of one of XULY.Bët’s most emblematic collections: the
famous XULY.Bët x PUMA collaboration. This the first time
a sportswear brand and a prêt-à-porter house worked
together and was the trigger of today’s new season in
Lamine’s mind. The photos even moved the designer to
the point that he again rediscovered the power of his
beloved fabric: elastane lycra. The collaboration, dating
back to 1995, still has much sense today in 2021. Modernity
in mobility was then avant-garde. Today it’s essential. By
drawing inspiration from the bright colors of the PUMA
collection, Lamine Badian Kouyaté has dared to translate
them through opaque fabrics this season. Upcycling still
remains a priority for the designer: all the caleçons and
cyclist shorts for example are snippets recovered from
the floor that have been randomly reassembled and
This season also marks a turning point for XULY.
Bët’s relaunch, initiated by Lamine Kouyaté
and Rodrigo Martinez. For their fourth season
on the Parisian Fashion Week calendar, they’ve
joined forces with the BOON_PARIS showroom
A TOTALLY FRESH AND INVENTIVE APPROACH
connected with XULY.Bët’s characteristic red stitching.
which will be further developing the brand on
For XULY.Bët CEO, Rodrigo Martinez, « This season,
26
Lamine has reworked the “rough” look from XULY.Bët’s
early days - the idea of exhibiting work that appears to be
simple but, in fact, is not. He’s injected a totally fresh and
inventive approach to what he has always been known
for. It’s definitely innovative ».
the European, American and Asian markets.
To reach a new global clientele and further
nourish XULY.Bët brand awareness, it was
essential to return to XULY.Bët’s roots, the
visible stitching that has been the essence of
the brand since 1992.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
f r . x u l y b e t . c o m

YOHJI
YAMAMOTO
A RESPONSE TO
GLOBAL WARMING
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R Y O H J I Y A M A M O T O
© C O U R T E S Y O F Y O H J I Y A M A M O T O
For his return to the physical show at the Paris Fashion Week, Yohji Yamamoto presented a
Spring/ Summer 2022 collection themed about the current global warming crises.
Open necklines, bare arms, shoulders exposed and for the first time miniskirts appears on the
runway.
«I even showed a mini, my first time ever. It’s my response to global warming».
In order to face the climatic change, the collection is made with natural fibers such as linen and
cot- ton which brings lightness and a more casual spirit. For the Spring/Summer 2022 it’s a back
to black with only few white and silver touches. The collec- tion is focused on the shapes, and
draping: «Black is fundamental to me. I don’t need help from color. All I need to do is cut.»
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Revisited trench coats, bustier dresses, cut-out leggings and long opening dresses are suggestions
on what to wear for the upcoming hot summers. The finale shows a trio of deconstructed
crinolines, as wide as the runway itself, crisscrossed with metal bars. Beyond the collection, Yohji
Yamamoto expresses his feelings by singing himself on the soundtrack of the show.
w w w . y o h j i y a m a m o t o . c o . j p
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE
NATURAL FIBERS

ZADIG&VOLTAIRE
An expression
of a beautiful
escape
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Zadig&Voltaire’s heritage is one of nonchalant elegance,
of a deep sense of freedom, of a liberated
femininity. Saint-Tropez is the embodiment of this
narrative, rooted in nature and party extravaganza.
Cecilia Bönström speaks to women and men of today.
In her spring/summer collection 2022, she ad-
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dresses this desire for emancipation through the
theme of THE ELEGANT COW-BOY.
Fine cashmeres, crinkled leather, oversized suits and
sexy lingerie tell this story. The tailored silhouette exudes
joy.
A flight towards great horizons
Bare feet in the sand. Sleek sophistication
meets true authenticity.
For this collection, Zadig&Voltaire revisits its
iconic Rock clutch. With its vibrant colours
and two sets of wings, the bag sets the tempo.
Everything flows breezily. The clothes are
never a constraint. On the contrary, they are
an expression of a beautiful escape. A flight
towards great horizons.
THE
ELEGANT
COW-BOY
A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : C E C I L I A B Ö N S T R Ö M
© C O U R T E S Y O F Z A D I G & V O L T A I R E
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE