Dominica Traveller

DOMINICA TRAVELLER 

A CURATED GUIDE 

2022

Yuri A Jones

BeautifulDominicaartworkforyourwalls 

Artist|Photographer 

Mobile: 7672855602 

Email:yuri@yuriajones.com 

www.yuriajones.com 

Coverphoto:VictoriaFalls

DOMINICA T 

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ENLIGHTENED TRAVEL 

A CURATED GUIDE 

WHERE TO EAT

RAVELLER 

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WHERE TO SLEEP 

WHAT TO DO 

WWW.PAULCRASK.COM

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SEIZE THE DAY 

The future of travel isn’t what it used to be. 

Nevertheless, despite ever-changing rules 

and restrictions, travel and exploration 

remain my passion. In these uncertain 

times, it seems even more important to 

make the most of every day; to see, feel, 

and taste new experiences, and to meet 

new people. 

Inevitably, as the world gets smaller, 

Dominica is becoming more connected. No 

longer as far off the beaten path as it once 

was, it’s an island that’s developing and 

amplifying its tourism profile. 

PAUL CRASK 

TRAVEL JOURNALIST & MAGAZINE PUBLISHER 

WWW.PAULCRASK.COM 

EMAIL: PAULCRASK@GMAIL.COM 

Dominica Traveller fourth edition 

published January 2022 by Paul Crask 

(Blue Parrot Consulting), PO Box 2349, 

Roseau, Dominica. 

All text and images copyright Paul Crask 

or captioned photographers and artists. 

With the exception of the pdf download 

available for this publication, no text or 

images may be reproduced and used for 

any other purpose without prior 

permission. Requests for such permission 

should be addressed to the email above. 

I’m reminded of the places I sought out 

when I was a backpacking student 

(ironically, with vaccine stamps in my 

passport) before they were transformed by 

mass tourism. Having lived in Dominica 

since 2005, I feel that now is an opportune 

time for travellers to come here. 

This is a tropical island destination for 

nature-loving adventure travellers. Most of 

its wild places are unspoilt and there’s some 

great half- and full-day hiking. The scuba 

diving is excellent, and the island’s pre- and 

post-colonial history and heritage add 

considerable interest. 

I’m trying to capture some of that with this 

magazine. It’s a curated and independent 

guide that I’ve created for ‘enlightened’, 

open-minded travellers who enjoy 

immersing themselves in a place rather 

than just skimming the surface. There’s no 

smoke and mirrors, no hype, just honest 

descriptions of my island home as I see it. 

Happy travels, 

Paul.

Rufous-throated solitaire (iStock/Getty)


“Ifyou’retwenty-two,physicallyfit,hungry 

tolearnandbebetter,Iurgeyoutotravel– 

asfarandaswidelyaspossible.Sleepon 

floorsifyouhaveto.Findouthowother 

peopleliveandeatandcook.Learnfrom 

them–whereveryougo”–AnthonyBourdain 

New Travel Normal 

The Essentials 

An Outdoors Island For Outdoors People 

Nature & Conservation 

History in a Nutshell 

Art & Culture


NEW TRAVEL NORMAL 

While air access to Dominica is certainly 

improving and an international airport is 

(apparently) just five years away, preand 

post-travel testing, red tape, and 

quarantine have all added to the cost, 

stress, and complexity of booking flights, 

making connections, and eventually 

kicking back and enjoying yourself. 

Getting a trip organised with travel rules 

a moving target can be challenging. But 

this seems to be the new travel normal 

that we now have to get used to. 

At the time of writing, Dominica’s travel 

rules include a pre-check-in PCR test, an 

online travel permission form, and an 

antigen test on landing - with additional 

rules regarding quarantining and 

isolation depending on your vaccination 

status and test result. 

You can find the latest travel rules, online 

travel application form, a listing of covidcertified 

accommodation, and an antigen 

test pre-payment portal via the tourism 

board’s website (discoverdominica.com). 

Dominican artist Pauline Marcelle (paulinemarcelle.com) in her Vienna studio by Lisi Specht (lisi.at)


THE ESSENTIALS 

THE BASICS 

Official language English (French 

Creole or patois is also commonly 

spoken). 

Time UTC – 4 hours. 

Electricity 220-240V. Commonly UKstyle 

3-pin sockets. 

Currency Eastern Caribbean Dollar 

(commonly written EC$). Pegged to 

US Dollar (US$1 = EC$2.67). US Dollar 

and Euro are widely accepted. ATMs in 

Roseau, Canefield, Portsmouth, 

Calibishie, and Douglas-Charles 

Airport. 

International telephone code +1 767 

Population est. 65-70,000 

Driving On the left. 

Principle airport Douglas-Charles 

(DOM), located on the northeast 

coast. There’s a secondary airport at 

Canefield, north of Roseau. 

Ferry ports Roseau (Bay Front) and 

Portsmouth (Cabrits National Park). 

Main hospital Dominica China 

Friendship Hospital (Roseau). Regional 

clinics and health centres island-wide. 

Emergency number 911. There are 

also local police stations in towns and 

villages around the island. 

Mobile network providers Flow 

Dominica and Digicel Dominica. 

Drinking water potable. 

GETTING HERE AND AWAY 

Airlines that service Dominica include Air 

Antilles, American Eagle, Caribbean 

Airlines, InterCaribbean Airways, Liat, 

Silver Airways, and Winair. The main 

regional connection hubs are Antigua, 

Barbados, St. Maarten, Puerto Rico, 

Guadeloupe, and Martinique. There are 

direct flights between Miami and Dominica. 

The inter-island high speed ferry service 

(run by L’Express des Îles and Val’ferry) has 

resumed with limited passenger numbers 

and the same entry rules as at the airport 

(check discoverdominica.com for the latest 

rules and advisories). The service connects 

Dominica with Guadeloupe, Martinique, 

and St. Lucia. 

GETTING AROUND 

The most flexible way to explore Dominica 

is by rental car. Options are plentiful, and 

your hotelier may have recommendations. 

Typically, daily rental is around US$50 with 

discounted rates for longer rental periods. 

Dominica has a functional, though 

unstructured, bus system. Buses are 

privately operated, they are not numbered, 

there is no timetable, and there is no bus 

terminus in Roseau, which means you must 

know where the bus stop to your 

destination is located. Fares are fixed 

according to route and it’s an inexpensive 

way to travel. But be prepared to wait for a 

bus to fill before departing, for seat-of-your 

pants driving, and for there to be fewer 

buses running after nightfall, on Sundays, 

and in between rush-hour times. 

Private taxi and bus tours are more 

expensive options for getting around but 

have the advantage of experienced guides, 

a door-to-door service, and less stress than 

self-driving. Usually, hoteliers have a list of 

their preferred operators and can organise 

tours and journeys for you.


AN OUTDOORS 

ISLAND FOR 

OUTDOORS 

PEOPLE 

Gear up and plan ahead 

In the context of tourism, Dominica is a 

holiday destination that’s more suited to 

outdoor adventure travellers than it is to 

lovers of sun loungers and poolside 

cocktails – though that’s possible here too. 

Dominica’s tourism board promotes the 

country as an eco-tourism/luxury ecotourism 

destination in line with its ‘Nature 

Isle’ slogans and branding. 

For outdoor people and nature lovers, 

Dominica is instantly visually appealing. 

Small mountains (mornes) of volcanic 

origin and covered in thick forest, 

dominate the landscape of the island’s 

rugged interior. Deep, often inaccessible 

river valleys conceal waterfalls, canyons, 

river pools, and crater lakes, one of which 

is boiling hot. The drama of Dominica’s 

landscape is reflected in its underwater 

environment where steep coral-covered 

walls, abyssal drop-offs, and volcanic 

pinnacles provide a deep water, pristine 

habitat for a wealth of marine life. 

Although mass tourism feels inevitable, 

Dominica travellers are still likely to have 

well-thumbed travel guides on their 

bookshelves and carry hiking boots and/or 

scuba gear in their luggage. This is a 

country that provides active travellers 

with surprises, new experiences, and

mental and physical stimulation. To fully 

appreciate Dominica, you must be ready 

to sweat a little. 

And what do you do for fun in Dominica 

when it rains? Well, you get wet and 

muddy, of course. 

One of the first things you must do as an 

independent traveller (though your hotel 

may well be able to help you) is get your 

head around the fee system. The 

Ecotourist Site User Fee Programme was 

established in 1997 to generate 

revenues from non-residents for the 

maintenance of popular attractions. It 

covers 12 sites (Emerald Pool, Boiling 

Lake, Freshwater Lake, Boeri Lake, 

Trafalgar Falls, Morne Trois Pitons, 

Morne Diablotin, Soufriere Sulphur 

Springs, Middleham Falls, Cabrits 

National Park, Syndicate Nature Trail, 

and Indian River). It doesn’t cover sites 

such as Morne Anglais, Victoria Falls, 

Sari Sari Falls, Jacko Steps. You should 

also note that the Morne Trois Pitons 

Trail and Soufriere Sulphur Springs were 

victims of hurricane Maria and, so far, 

have not been repaired. A single site pass 

costs US$5 (valid for one person for one 

site for one day) and a week pass costs 

US$12 and is valid for one person for all 

sites for one week. Just to make things a 

little more interesting, there’s also a 

separate fee system for the Waitukubuli 

National Trail. It costs US$12 per day on 

the trail and US$40 for 15 days. Oddly, it 

costs more than twice as much to walk 

the public road from Capuchin to the 

Cabrits National Park (WNT segment 14) 

than it does to hike the Boiling Lake Trail. 

Hikers must bear in mind that Dominica’s 

interior can be wet and muddy, even 

during the dry season. Pack two or three 

sets of quick drying hiking clothes, light 

but strong hiking footwear with a flexible 

tread (such as Vibram) that will work

well on all terrains and in rivers, a rain 

jacket, waterproof day pack, and a 

reusable water bottle or hydration 

system (river water in the interior is 

potable unless there has been heavy 

rain). Walking poles are helpful on many 

trails and for river crossings, though less 

so for the mountain trails. Long pants 

and long sleeve shirts are recommended 

for mountain trails such as Morne 

Anglais where razor grass grows near the 

summit. There’s no need for GPS 

tracking to find way points though it’s 

not a bad idea for emergency situations. 

A hiking trail app on your phone (such as 

Gaia GPS) is helpful and interesting. 

It’s a good idea to make a list of what you 

would like to see and do so that you can 

plan accommodation, guides, and 

transportation accordingly. If your desire 

for independent planning and organising 

only goes so far, all-in packages are rare 

but do exist, and most well established 

small to mid-size hoteliers know the 

ropes and have a handful of guides they 

have probably used for a while. 

When setting out, it’s prudent to let your 

hotelier know where you’re going. 

Forestry officers who check passes 

usually keep a mental note of how many 

people are on a trail, but nothing is 

written down and it could be a while 

before help arrives. Trail management is 

an area that needs some improvement. 

Scuba divers are in good hands. All diving 

must be undertaken via a dive shop (all 

have rental gear) and dives are led by a 

qualified professional. Divemasters and 

instructors love what they do and have a 

good knowledge of the sites they dive 

regularly. 

In case of emergencies, Dominica has a 

recompression chamber at the main 

hospital in Roseau.

NATURE CAN’T RECYCLE PLASTIC 

And NEITHER CAN DOMINICA

Please bring a Reusable bottle 

To enjoy our water


NATURE & 

CONSERVATION 

For an island of just 750km 2 , 

Dominica packs an ecological punch 

Dominica has eight dormant volcanoes: 

Morne Diablotin, Morne Watt, Morne 

Trois Pitons, Morne Micotrin (also 

known as Morne Macaque), Morne 

Anglais, Grand Soufriere Hills, Morne 

Aux Diables, and Foundland. The Valley 

of Desolation caldera is considered 

‘active’. (The word ‘morne’ is an Old 

French word meaning ‘small mountain’.) 

Natural habitats include rainforest, 

which is by far the largest, montane 

forest, cloud forest, littoral and coastal 

woodland. 

Dominica’s 7,000-hectares Morne Trois 

Pitons National Park is a UNESCO 

World Heritage Site and is home to 

volcanic peaks, crater lakes, rivers, 

waterfalls, and active volcanic sites. The 

3,335-hectares Morne Diablotin 

National Park is named after the island’s 

tallest mountain - Morne Diablotin. At 

1,447m, it’s the second tallest peak in the 

eastern Caribbean after La Grande 

Soufriere (1,467m) on the island of 

Guadeloupe. 

The 525-hectares Cabrits National Park 

was established in 1986 and is a coastal 

isthmus containing two volcanic domes 

(thought to have originally been part of 

the same volcano) in the northwest of 

Dominica. During the island’s colonial 

period it was entirely occupied by a 

military garrison. The park’s primary 

habitats are dry coastal woodland and a 

large area of wetland. 

Dominica has three designated marine 

reserves along the west coast with the 

Soufriere Scotts Head Marine Reserve 

(SSMR) being the most established and 

well known. Due to the island’s volcanic 

formation, coastal waters drop off very 

quickly and are deep close to shore. 

Coral reef formations benefit from this 

deep, colder water and are rarely 

affected by the kind of coral bleaching 

that is seen on shallow reefs around the 

world. This deep water also gives the 

reefs considerable protection during 

severe weather events such as tropical 

storms and hurricanes. Formations are 

predominantly walls and pinnacles. 

Champagne Reef, at the northern

oundary of the SSMR is noted for its 

shallow water active marine fumaroles. 

Dominica’s roughly 150km coastline is a 

combination of black and white sand 

beaches, shingle, cliffs, and volcanic lava 

formations. A notable lava dyke can be 

seen at Sineku in the Kalinago Territory. 

Known as L’Escalier Tete Chien (roughly 

translated as ‘the boa constrictor’s 

staircase’), it’s a place of Kalinago legend. 

Other notable coastal formations are the 

red rock cliffs that can be found between 

Wesley and Calibishie in the northeast of 

Dominica (usually accessed at Pointe 

Baptiste or Cabana Beach). 

Rare bird species include two endemic 

Amazon parrots; the sisserou (Amazona 

imperialis) and the jaco (Amazona 

arausiaca). (See Birds and Birdwatching 

for more information.) 

Mammal species include the agouti 

(Dasyprocta leporina) which would most 

likely have been brought here by 

Amerindians from South America as a 

food source. Roughly the size of a rabbit, 

it’s a ground-dwelling rodent that’s 

commonly sighted in the rainforest as 

well as farmland areas where it’s often 

considered a pest. The manicou 

(Didelphys marsupialis) is a nocturnal 

tree-dwelling opossum. Though it has a 

widespread distribution, including in 

villages and suburbs, it’s rarely sighted. 

Dominica is also home to wild pigs which 

are thought to live in large numbers in 

deeply forested areas. Though wild pigs 

can have a reputation for being 

aggressive in self-defense, they are also 

elusive and tend to avoid humans. 

Twelve species of bat have been 

recorded in Dominica. One of them, 

Myotis dominicensis, also known as the 

mouse-eared bat, is known to only occur 

here and in neighbouring Guadeloupe. 

Other regionally endemic species include 

the Lesser Antillean long-tongued bat, 

the Lesser Antillean tree bat, and the 

Antillean cave bat. The largest species 

recorded in Dominica is the fisherman 

bat which lives in coastal caves. 

None of Dominica’s four snake species

are venomous. The largest is the boa 

constrictor (Constrictor nebulosa) which 

can grow up to 3.5m and, unusually for a 

reptile, gives birth to live young. 

Dominica’s largest frog is the critically 

endangered mountain chicken 

(Leptodactyllus fallax) whose numbers 

have been decimated by a combination 

of hunting and the amphibian chytrid 

fungus disease that has had a devastating 

impact on amphibians around the world. 

Far more common is the tink frog 

(Eleutherodactylus diastema) which 

emerges after sundown to join the 

crickets and other insects in Dominica’s 

nighttime chorus. 

threat in recent years from an invasive 

species, probably brought by container 

ship and distributed around the island 

via its road system. The invasive tree 

lizard tends to occupy coastal habitats, 

whereas the endemic zandoli is more 

often found in the forested interior of 

the island. 

The larger ground lizard (Ameiva 

fuscata), known locally as abolo, is only 

found in dry coastal areas where the 

Lesser Antillean iguana (Iguana 

delicatissima) is also commonly sighted. 

The zandoli (Anolis oculatus) is an 

endemic tree lizard that has come under 

Montane and active volcanic habitats. Morne Watt and the Valley of Desolation (Celia Sorhaindo)

Agouti (iStock/Getty) 

Over 50 species of butterfly have been 

recorded in Dominica, two of which are 

endemic to the island: the Dominican 

snout (Libytheana fulvescens) and the 

Dominican hairstreak (Electrostrymon 

dominicana). Both are usually sighted in 

dry habitats along the west coast. 

Over 60 endemic beetle species have 

been recorded in Dominica, including 

one of the largest in the world: the 

Hercules beetle (Dynastes hercules). 

Dominica’s numerous rivers and 

streams provide a habitat for a variety 

of fish and crustacean species. One of 

the most interesting is the titiwi, a 

Kalinago name for Sicydium 

punctatatum, a species of goby that 

hatches in fresh water, floats 

downstream all the way to the sea 

where it develops, and then swims back 

upstream to spawn. On its return river 

journey, the titwi faces several 

obstacles, one of which is human. Fine 

nets are cast near the mouths of rivers 

to catch the titiwi which are eaten as 

accras (fried patties) in September and 

October each year. If they survive the 

nets, the titiwi climb rocks and river 

cascades to reach mountain pools 

where they mature as larger and very 

Rufous-throated solitaire (iStock/Getty)

Jamaican fruit bat 

Mature titiwi (Kevin Conway) 

Mountain chicken 

Endemic zandoli

Hercules beetle (Lu Szumskyj) 

Lesser Antillean iguana (iStock/Getty)

colourful fish. Other creatures 

found in and around fresh water 

are mountain mullet, freshwater 

shrimp, crayfish, and crabs. 

Dominica’s marine environment 

teems with life. Healthy coral 

reefs provide both a sanctuary 

and a feeding ground for a large 

number of fish and crustacean 

species as well as hard and soft 

corals, colourful anemones, 

sponges, crinoids, and sea 

worms. Notable small critters 

include frogfish, seahorses, and 

banded shrimp. Eagle rays and 

hawksbill turtles are commonly 

sighted. 

Dominica’s deep waters also 

provide a year-round habitat for 

sperm whales (see Whale 

Watching). Pilot whales, 

humpback whales, and large 

pods of spinner, bottlenose, and 

Atlantic spotted dolphins are 

also commonly sighted. 

At certain times of the year, 

giant leatherback turtles 

(Dermochelys coriacea), the 

largest of all living sea turtles, 

arrive at night to lay clusters of 

eggs in the sand. Later in the 

year, the eggs hatch and the 

young turtles dig their way out 

of the sand and disappear into 

the ocean. Rosalie Bay and Bout 

Sable Bay are two of the best 

places to witness this. 

Dominica’s Sea Turtle 

Conservation Organization Inc. 

(DomSeTCO) was founded in 2007 

to conserve sea turtles and provide 

sustainable livelihoods for coastal 

communities in Dominica. Contact 

them for more information 

(info@domsetco.org).

Recently hatched leatherback turtle (A.Madisetti / Images Dominica

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HISTORY IN A NUTSHELL 

Stone tools discovered at archaeological 

sites in both the Lesser and Greater 

Antilles suggest the islands were first 

occupied around 5,000 years ago. 

Though experts differ on the details, 

most agree that successive waves of 

people from South and Central America 

migrated to and lived on the islands right 

up to the arrival of Europeans in the late 

15th century. Usually, the generic name 

given to the people who settled in the 

Greater Antilles is Taino, and those given 

to settlers in the Lesser Antilles are 

Carib, Arawak, Igneri, and Kalinago. 

Arawak actually refers to a family of 

languages spoken by indigenous people 

from the South American mainland. The 

last group who occupied the Lesser 

Antilles up to 1492 are self-identified as 

Kalinago, and they called this island 

Wai’tukubuli (meaning ‘tall is her body’). 

The Kalinago were determined to resist 

European occupation of their islands. 

Masters of the sea, travelling great 

distances in huge dug-out canoes, they 

attacked European settlements and 

ships throughout the eastern Caribbean. 

Eventually, they were worn down by a 

relentless onslaught of disease, warships, 

canons, and muskets. Their access to 

natural resources became ever more 

restricted until they were forced to 

accept and trade with Europeans. 

Though recent archaeology suggests 

trade with the Kalinago of Dominica may 

have taken place as early as the 1600s, 

the first recorded European settlement 

was that of French timber merchants 

from Martinique. The foothold, once 

established, grew, and it was not long 

before the Kalinago village of Sairi 

became Roseau, and the indigenous 

people were forced ever further into the 

hinterlands. 

The European settlers created 

plantations of sugarcane, coffee, limes, 

and coconuts. Their workforce was made 

up of enslaved Africans who were 

brought from neighbouring islands and 

then auctioned at what is now known as 

The Old Market in Roseau. The British 

took control of Dominica from the 

French and their treatment of the 

enslaved was brutal. A large number of 

them escaped captivity and made 

encampments in hard-to-reach locations 

in Dominica’s mountainous and densely 

forested interior. The colonists referred 

to them as Maroons and some of their 

chiefs became the subject of legend. 

Full emancipation came in 1838 and 

many estate owners simply abandoned 

their land and investments, no longer 

able to make a profit from an enslaved 

workforce. Dominica remained a colony 

of Britain until 1978 when it became an 

independent republic with an elected 

president as the head of state. It was a 

difficult beginning for independent 

Dominica. Hurricane David wrecked 

much of the island in 1979, and then in 

1981 a failed coup d’état attempted to 

overthrow the incumbent government of 

Eugenia Charles. 

In 2015, Tropical Storm Erika brought a 

deluge that caused landslides and flash 

floods, some of them lethal, and caused 

the eventual abandonment of two 

villages in the south: Dubique and Petite 

Savanne. Two years later, in 2017, 

category five Hurricane Maria either 

destroyed or caused significant damage 

to around eighty percent of the island’s 

private and public buildings, road and 

utilities infrastructure. Thanks to rapid 

international aid and other generous 

interventions, Dominica has largely 

recovered and new construction is now 

undertaken with climate change in mind. 

Dominica’s economy depends on 

tourism, citizenship by investment, and 

agriculture. Much of this has been 

affected by the covid-19 pandemic.

For a number of years, teams 

comprised of overseas academics 

and interested locals, including 

schoolchildren, have been 

carrying out 

archaeology 

at a number of sites around 

the island, including 

Morne Patates, Sugarloaf, 

and La Soye 

Mark Hauser, Associate 

Professor of Anthropology at 

Northwestern University 

(above) leads the majority of 

the fieldwork. 

Evidence collected so far 

from the current project at La 

Soye suggests a site where 

merchants from Europe 

traded goods with local 

Kalinago in the early 1600s.

BOOKS FRO 

“The small and invalu 

HISTORY MEMOIR SOCIETY 

Video introduction to this 

untold story of a heroic 

anti-colonial struggle 

Building a home in 

Dominica in the 1930s: 

a mesmerising memoir 

First-person accounts 

of “back home” and away 

by Dominica’s returnees 

Po 

ex 

wr 

Like the island itself, Dominica’s literature is full of surp 

All titles are available from bookshops world 

POETRY 

SHORT STORIES 

PICTURE BOOK 

Poetry that is “humane, 

radical and refreshingly 

disdainful of the elite.” 

Crime stories from the 

“gritty underbelly and back 

alleys of Dominica.” 

The re-telling of 

a Kalinago myth: 

by children from Dominica 

Check the website www.papillotepress.co.uk

M DOMINICA 

able Papillote Press” 

POETRY 

PICTURE BOOK 

NOVEL 

werful poems that explore 

periences and emotions 

ought by Hurricane Maria 

Krik...krak... Are granny’s stories 

of her childhood true? 

rises: fiction, history, memoir, children’s picture books. 

wide, online – or buy when you’re on island. 

Three daughters return to 

their island home – a luscious 

and passionate story 

SHORT STORIES 

HISTORY 

NOVEL 

Stories set in Dominica, 

NY and London – fresh, 

quirky and wise 

Hear the voices of the 

Maroons in these verbatim 

accounts of their unjust trials 

Twin teenage boys in 

search of adventure 

and treasure in Dominica 

Polly Pattullo chats about the life and times of Papillote Press


ART & CULTURE 

Dominica’s oldest cultural traditions are those 

of the Kalinago, the last wave of people who 

migrated from the South American mainland 

before the arrival of Europeans. Their cultural 

background can be traced to the indigenous 

people of the Orinoco Delta in present day 

Venezuela from where they originated. With a 

population estimated to be between 

2,500-3,000, the cultural heartland of the 

Kalinago is the 1,500-hectare, semiautonomous 

Kalinago Territory that was 

established in 1903. The lands of the Territory 

are communally owned and an elected 

Kalinago Chief and Kalinago Council 

administer Territory affairs. Although 

traditions and cultural practices are partially 

obscured by time and the interpretations and 

observations of Europeans, Kalinago people 

are reclaiming their indigenous heritage and 

are represented at the United Nations 

Permanent Forum on Indigenous Issues. 

Discussions have also taken place regarding an 

application for World Heritage Site status for 

the Territory. 

In contemporary Dominica, the cultural 

traditions of the Kalinago have become 

intertwined with tourism. Basket ware items 

made from the larouma reed, hand-carved 

calabash shells and tree fern trunks, cassava 

bread, and kanki are all important sources of 

income. Some traditions such as dug-out 

canoe-building and pottery often appear on 

the brink as fibreglass fishing boats and cheap, 

imported goods out-muscle heritage, though 

there are concerted efforts by some groups to 

arrest this decline and place a greater 

emphasis on learned indigenous skills and 

knowledge. 

The Europeans brought enslaved people from 

West Africa to work their estates and a new 

culture emerged from the brutality of bondage 

that combined French, British, and African 

traditions. This new culture is referred to as 

Creole. 

KALINAGO 

Dominica’s version of Creole 

influences traditional food, dress 

(costume), music, and language. 

Although the British defeated the 

French for control of the island, it 

was the proximity of Guadeloupe 

and Martinique that had the biggest 

influence on the development of 

Creole culture in Dominica. French 

Creole, or patois, resonates with the 

syntax of African languages and the 

vocabulary of French. Although 

English is the official language, most 

Dominicans know some patois, or 

even regularly speak it. 

The traditional wob dwyet costume 

worn by women is now only ever 

seen during Carnival in February/ 

March or Creole and Independence 

festivities in October/November. It 

began life as the clothing worn by 

enslaved women on Sundays or feast 

days when they were able to discard 

their drab work clothes. One of the 

main components of traditional 

CARNI

RASTAFARI 

Creole dress (and also seen on other 

islands) is madras, a colourfully dyed 

cotton that originated in the vicinity 

of Chennai (formerly Madras) and 

which was traded and spread along 

the African coast by Portuguese 

merchants. The wob dwyet is worn 

for performances of bele, a dance of 

African origin that is accompanied 

by goatskin drum (lapeaud cabwit) 

and a song delivered in patois by a 

chanteuse and a small chorus of men 

and women. 

CREOLE 

Creole’s association with 

colonisation and the slave trade 

means that not everyone embraces 

it as a culture. Some Dominicans 

prefer to emphasise and focus on 

their African roots, and they have 

strong ties with the natural 

environment. Rastas (Rastafari or 

Rastafarians) are people who live in 

this manner and have a deep 

knowledge of plants, flowers, and 

herbs. Many Kalinago have also 

retained and utilise this knowledge. 

VAL 

This mix of Kalinago, Africa, and 

French Creole is still the backbone 

of traditional culture on the island, 

though a new generation of 

independent Dominicans also 

embraces more modern and 

international influences. Bouyon is a 

music genre born in Dominica that

WORLD CREOLE MUSIC FESTIVAL 

has grown popular around the 

region and often dominates or 

rounds off domestic festivals. 

Along with calypso, bouyon has 

become the prevalent music genre 

at carnival where costumes 

increasingly resemble those of 

other countries with feathers and 

bikinis edging out some of the 

more traditional Dominican dress. 

Carnival takes place on the 

Monday and Tuesday before Ash 

Wednesday and begins with 

J’Ouvert in the early hours of 

Monday morning. Although 

carnival parades take place in 

other towns and villages around 

the island, the biggest party is in 

Roseau. On Ash Wednesday, a 

festival known as Tewe Vaval takes 

place in the village of Bataca. It’s a 

fire festival that marks the 

symbolic burning of the spirit of 

carnival. 

Other notable festivals include 

Jazz ‘n’ Creole (usually in May at 

Fort Shirley in the Cabrits National 

Park) and World Creole Music 

Festival (the last weekend in 

October at the Windsor Park 

Sports Stadium in Roseau). The 

World Creole Music Festival 

attracts regional and international 

artists as well as some of 

Dominica’s prominent musicians 

and bands. It’s the culmination of 

Creole Week and part of the 

annual Independence celebrations 

which usually includes the wearing 

of traditional Creole dress and 

Creole dance performances (often 

on Roseau’s Bay Front). 

Other expressions of Dominican 

culture are in the form of art and 

literature. They tend to come to 

the fore during DOMFESTA in May 

each year. Art exhibitions, poetry 

readings, and other performances 

often take place at the Old Mill 

Cultural Centre in Canefield, near 

Roseau. On July 12 each year, 

there is usually a ceremony to 

celebrate the legacy of Dominica’s 

Maroons, the date being that on 

which Maroon Chief Jacko was 

killed at his camp above the village 

of Bells. On August 9, it’s 

International Day of the World’s 

Indigenous Peoples, and the day is 

usually marked by a cultural event 

in the Kalinago Territory. 

Vaval(RichardK

irby) 

TEWE VAVAL

WAITUKUBULI 

ARTIST ASSOCIATION 

The Waitukubuli Artist Association was 

founded just before hurricane Maria 

struck Dominica in September 2017. It 

was in the aftermath of the disaster that 

the group found its immediate 

inspiration, bringing art, colour, and life 

to the streets of a devastated but 

recovering nation. It seems somehow 

fitting that such a young and creative 

movement should be born from the 

rubble of the most destructive moment 

in living memory. 

Life and the country have moved on and 

WAA’s members have since found 

inspiration from other sources such as 

the diversity of Dominica’s natural 

environment, its people, village life, and 

moments from its past- the story of the 

Maroons, for example. 

The group’s artwork has always made its 

way to the streets of Dominica in the 

form of colourful and inspirational 

murals which can be seen around the 

island. Most recently, WAA members 

were commissioned to create an artistic 

Dominica sign on the Roseau Bay Front. 

It’s impossible to showcase the work of 

every WAA member here - it would 

require a magazine of its own - so here’s 

just a small selection. To see more, look 

out for exhibitions at the Old Mill 

Cultural Centre in Canefield, near 

Roseau, at the ruins of the Anglican 

Church in Roseau, or check out WAA’s 

website and social media pages. 

www.kubuliarts.com

Right: 

AaronHaigHamilton 

MariaTorn.FederationDrive 

Below: 

YaenaEugene 

Empress 

Right: 

SusanneHeitz 

FrangipaniGirl

Left: 

CarolSorhaindo 

CoronaConversations- 

EuphorbiaMilii 

Below: 

WAA Group members at work

Right: 

SaramaRolle 

GoodTimes 

Below: 

JanaeBell 

SelfPortrait 

Right: 

HilroyFingal 

WarriorJacko

Right: 

NeaAntoine 

Shodo-SheCompelsMe 

Left: 

MaricaHonychurch 

AlléDouvan 

Below: 

HeTeKiyoto 

AcidFlood 

Right: 

OMtNI 

Hydro-us

TRAVELPOSITIVELY 

Themostauthenticsouvenirsarelocallymade 

ZEB KWEYOL 

LOCAL PRODUCTS & CRAFTS 

THECOVEREDSECTIONOFTHEOLDMARKETINROSEAU

WHERE TO EAT 

Food & Drink 

Where Should I Eat ? 

Le Petit Paris 

Riverside Café 

Tilou Kanawa 

Zeb Zepis

WHERE TO EAT 

FOOD & DRINK 

Creole cooking is the mainstay of Dominica’s kitchen, whether at home or in a restaurant 

Roseau Market(Celia Sorhaindo)

As with most things Creole, the food, 

traditional dishes, and cooking practices 

that exist today are legacies of 

colonialism and enslavement. Each large 

estate had a small village where the 

enslaved workers lived and they in turn 

were allocated a space where they could 

grow food for themselves. This area was 

known as a provision ground and food 

such as yam, tannia, and dasheen were 

grown there. These root crops, or ground 

provisions, filled the stomachs of the 

enslaved workers and gave them the 

energy they needed to survive the 

unimaginable hardships to which they 

were exposed every day. 

A single pot of water would be boiled 

over an open fire and the ground 

provisions were cooked with an 

assortment of herbs and any discarded 

meat or fish the enslaved could get their 

hands on to give the braf some flavour. 

This one-pot dish was African in origin 

and modified by the situation, the 

conditions, and the ingredients that were 

available. Today, braf is still a Dominican 

staple and is enjoyed throughout the 

year. It’s often the focal point for a picnic, 

a river lime, or a family occasion. 

Other dishes that emerged from this mix 

of African tradition and the conditions on 

French and British estates include pelau, 

a heavily spiced rice that usually includes 

chicken meat and bones – often offcuts 

such as back and neck. Callaloo is 

Dominica’s national dish (it replaced 

mountain chicken) and is a soup that is 

made from the young leaves of the 

dasheen plant. Sometimes the leaves are 

replaced by spinach. Often, callaloo is

served with dumplings and, during 

Creole festivities in October, with land 

crab. 

Another popular seasonal dish is crab 

back. This is made by extracting and then 

seasoning the flesh of a land crab, then 

baking it in its shell, often in 

breadcrumbs. Many crab back cooks 

keep their methods and seasoning a 

closely guarded secret. 

Sancoche is another traditional dish that 

combines a seasoned coconut sauce with 

reconstituted saltfish. Saltfish was an 

integral part of colonial Caribbean trade. 

Although rum distilling is usually 

associated with the Caribbean, it was 

also very big business in North America 

and cheap saltfish to feed the enslaved of 

islands such as Dominica was used in 

trade for molasses. Today, Dominica still 

imports low quality saltfish (salted cod is 

often replaced by pollack) for the dinner 

table. 

The lunch menu in Dominica is a staple 

right around the island. It’s a dish that 

includes a meat or fish of some kind that 

is accompanied by an assortment of 

ground provisions, rice (sometimes rice 

and peas), vegetables, salad, beans, and 

often a helping of macaroni cheese. 

Come hungry, leave full. A menu will 

often simply say ‘fish lunch’, ‘pork lunch’, 

‘chicken lunch’, and so on. From time to 

time, there will also be curry goat on the 

lunch menu. For many Dominicans, lunch 

is the main meal of the day. 

Seafood dishes include tuna, mahi mahi 

(also known as dowad or dolphin), marlin, 

and reef fish such as jacks. There may 

also be balao, barracuda, octopus, 

crayfish, and shrimp (imported). Large 

spiny lobsters are usually the most 

expensive item on a menu. 

The Kalinago have some traditional 

dishes that can still be enjoyed. One very 

nice snack is called kanki which is 

sweetened and spiced cassava that is 

boiled in a wrapped and tied banana leaf. 

Cassava bread, often with added 

coconut, is baked on hotplates over open 

fires in the Kalinago Territory. 

Upmarket and hotel restaurants often 

describe their style of cooking as a 

‘fusion’ of Creole and international 

dishes. Creole still provides inspiration, 

as do many of the ingredients, but dishes 

have developed to include more 

international cooking influences – 

breadfruit croquettes, dasheen puffs, 

curried fish, for example. This makes for 

an interesting blend of the traditional 

and the contemporary when dining out in 

Dominica. 

The traditional rum shop (often simply 

called a shop) may stock and serve 

everything from bush infused rum to tins 

of condensed milk. It’s an interesting 

Rum Shop (Marica Honychurch)

variation on the convenience store that’s 

found in every village around the island. 

These shops or bars are often the 

heartbeat of small communities – where 

politics is debated, and gossip is spread. 

Kubuli used to be Dominica’s beer. To some 

it still is, but it hasn’t been made here since 

hurricane Maria destroyed the facility in 

2017. Kubuli beer is currently made in St. 

Vincent. 

Also destroyed by extreme weather was 

the Shillingford Estate rum distillery at 

Macoucherie and its sugarcane fields. 

Thankfully, it is now rebuilt and on a path to 

recovery. For many years, this was the only 

producer that distilled its own rum rather 

than import and blend those of others. 

Bush rum is the name given to pure cane 

rum that has been infused with herbs and 

spices. There are many kinds. Common 

infusions are spice (with cinnamon), pueve 

(with pepper), and l’absent with aniseed. 

The most notorious is bois bandé, infused 

with the bark of a tree and said to be a 

‘natural Viagra’. 

Rum is, of course, used to make rum punch 

– a Caribbean staple that, in Dominica, is 

usually made with lime or passionfruit, with 

added bitters. There’s also ti punch, which is 

pure cane rum, sweetened with cane syrup 

and drunk with lime and lots of ice. 

Seasonal fruits are squeezed to make 

refreshing non-alcoholic juices. Try some of 

the more unusual options such as golden 

apple, tamarind, and soursop. A traditional 

Christmastime drink is sorrel which is made 

from the petals of the sorrel plant, which is 

a variety of hibiscus. 

One of the most refreshing non-alcoholic 

drinks is coconut water, especially if drunk 

directly from the jelly (immature) coconut 

on a hot and sunny day. 

Try the bush tea - a hot water drink that’s 

infused with herbs that are considered 

medicinal, and also the cocoa tea - a hot 

drink made from locally grown cocoa that’s 

home-processed and rolled into sticks. Melt 

a stick in hot water and coconut milk, add 

grated cinnamon and nutmeg, and enjoy. 

Crab back (Celia Sorhaindo)

WHERE TO EAT 

WHERE SHOULD I EAT ? 

From roadside braf to Caribbean haute cuisine, there’s food everywhere 

In the context of world cuisine, Dominica 

couldn’t really be described as a 

destination for foodies. Having said that, 

the heritage of the island’s cooking 

carries much weight (as well as plenty of 

carbohydrates). Born out of a need to 

fuel enslaved manual labour, a traditional 

Creole lunch is still mostly about filling 

you up and keeping you going. Try 

enquiring of a cook if he/she has any food 

ready and the answer may be no. Ask if 

there are sandwiches or fries and the 

answer may be yes. ‘Food’ is the stuffing 

for empty bellies, anything else is just a 

snack. 

Small eateries (often referred to as 

snackettes) operate all around the island. 

You’ll find them in every town and 

village. Some are little more than 

wooden sheds, others are more 

established and elaborate. All of them 

kick off the day with fried bakes, stuffed 

and plain, with fried fish, fried chicken, 

and sandwiches – all usually prepared 

early and stored and displayed in an 

electric warmer on the counter top. 

Every snackette will have pretty much 

the same thing – there isn’t much by way 

of variety – but stay here long enough 

and you eventually notice the subtle 

differences between a good bake and a 

not so good one, the way a fish accra is 

seasoned better in one place than in 

another, the fact that some snackettes 

also make their own local juices rather 

than just sell sodas, then the differences 

in the strength and sweetness of those 

juices, and so on. You develop favourites 

because of these subtleties rather than 

because one place sells something 

notably different to another. You’ll find 

these snackettes in the Kalinago 

Territory too, but the subtleties here may 

also include Amerindian heritage food 

such as cassava bread and kanki. 

By noon, most snackettes will offer 

chicken lunches, pork lunches, and fish 

lunches. This is the heavy-duty stuffing 

that may still be the only meal of the day 

for some people, especially those who 

live close to the poverty line. It’s 

functional food where the meat option is 

accompanied by lots of ground 

provisions, rice, beans, vegetables, 

plantains, and salad. Sometimes pasta - 

usually macaroni cheese - is also 

included. 

For budget travellers, a snackette lunch 

is a must, as you can fill yourself up for as 

little as EC$15-20. Get there before 2pm 

or risk there being no ‘food’ left, just the 

chicken wings, drumsticks, and fried fish 

that are usually replenished throughout 

the day. Far fewer local snackettes offer 

evening dining as they tend to transition 

to bars. 

On Saturday mornings there are often 

‘pop-up’ eateries, usually roadside, 

where large pots simmer over stoves. 

These one-pot dishes are likely to 

include bull foot soup and souse (boiled 

pig trotter), sometimes goat or fish water 

(a light soup), or fashing (boiled cow 

hide). 

Restaurants are developing their menus 

all the time to reflect the changing tastes 

of both local and overseas diners. 

Although many will offer traditional 

lunches, there’s a noticeable 

international influence as dishes become 

a ‘fusion’ of Creole and elsewhere. 

Although the essence and origins of 

Creole cooking remain strong, many 

restaurant chefs are now experimenting 

with different ways to use traditional 

ingredients to create new dishes. Rather 

like the development of culture and the 

arts in this new, independent nation,

Cooking kanki in the Kalinago Territory 

cuisine is also beginning to experience 

its own subtle revolution. Lobster in red 

curry sauce, for example, would not have 

been on a Dominican menu a few years 

ago. 

With some exceptions, restaurants are 

usually open for both lunch and dinner. 

Unlike some Caribbean islands where 

resorts and thus restaurants tend to be 

found in specific areas, Dominica’s 

hotels, restaurants, snackettes, and bars 

are dotted all around the island. Lunch 

and dinner prices are more expensive at 

restaurants than they are at snackettes. 

Expect to pay between EC$40-100 for a 

main course (lobster is usually the most 

expensive dish on a restaurant menu). 

Although some hotels also offer dining, 

the number of restaurants is still low 

compared to local snackettes. This 

means that travellers may find evening 

dining options quite limited. And 

because drop-in custom is also 

inconsistent here, many restaurants 

prefer you to call ahead. 

Lunch 

Vegetarians will have few problems 

finding food – a typical lunch will simply 

be served with no meat and extra 

provisions and vegetables – and most 

restaurants have vegetarian options.

CREOLE COOKINGCLASSES WITH DARIAEUGENE

For bookings-jtasexperience@gmail.com 

CREOLE COOKING CLASSES WITH DARIA EUGENE

WHERE TO EAT 

LE PETIT PARIS 

ROSEAU 

- West coast (B4) - 

Le Petit Paris is a French café and 

restaurant located at the northern end 

of the Bay Front, opposite the interisland 

ferry terminal in downtown 

Roseau. Open for breakfast and lunch 

six days a week plus dinner on Fridays, 

the menu is attractive and varied. 

For breakfast, there are daily fresh 

croissants – plain, with chocolate, or 

stuffed – with coffee, tea, and local 

fruit juice. 

For lunch, there is a good selection of 

hot and cold snacks including baguette 

sandwiches, quiche, pizza slices, 

patties, and pies. The full lunch and 

Friday dinner menu includes gourmet 

burgers, seared tuna, lobster tail, roti, 

wraps, and pelau rice. 

If you are feeling indulgent, the 

patisserie options include cakes, 

cheesecake, tarts, eclairs, and 

turnovers – all prepared on the 

premises. 

Baguettes can be baked to order and 

there is a handy take-out service. 

Le Petit Paris also has a good selection 

of wines, beers, and spirits. 

+17672757777 

OpenMondaytoSaturday8.30amto4pm 

(to8pmonFriday)

WHERE TO EAT 

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ 

CITRUS CREEK PLANTATION,LA PLAINE 

- East coast (C4) - 

Unpretentious, relaxed, and in a 

beautifully natural setting, Riverside 

Café at Citrus Creek Plantation serves 

delicious lunches and dinners by 

reservation. 

A delicious fusion of Caribbean and 

international cuisine, with a strong hint 

of France, Riverside Café’s dishes make 

the most of daily fresh local produce 

wherever possible. Local fishermen 

provide the seafood, with octopus and 

conch specialties available on a varying 

menu of good quality, delightful 

cooking. Completely open-sided, 

facing garden and Taberi River, a great 

deal of emphasis is placed on socially 

distanced spacing and manageable 

numbers so that diners feel safe and 

comfortable. The ambience is laid 

back, friendly, and engaging. 

Expedition packages are available for 

those who wish to explore the natural 

attractions of the southeast. Arrive 

and have coffee, then enjoy lunch, 

dinner, or both, in combination with 

guided trips to Victoria and/or Sari Sari 

Falls. You decide your day. There’s the 

river and even massage to help you 

unwind, and cooking classes will be 

coming soon. 

+17676171234and6133113 

www.citruscreekplantation.com 

Openforlunchanddinnersevendaysaweek 

(Inordertoguaranteesociallydistancedseatingand 

arelaxedambiance,byreservationonlyplease)

WHERE TO EAT 

TILOU KANAWA 

SALYBIA,KALINAGOTERRITORY 


Meaning ‘little canoe’ in the original 

language of the region’s indigenous 

people, Tilou Kanawa is an authentic 

local restaurant and bar in Dominica’s 

Kalinago Territory. 

Located roadside in the village of 

Salybia, Tilou Kanawa is an open-sided 

terrace restaurant that enjoys 

awesome views of the Territory’s 

rugged hillsides and Atlantic coastline. 

The menu is an interesting fusion of 

traditional Kalinago and the more 

contemporary, with a good selection of 

light bites as well as full lunches and 

dinners. Cassava bread, made on the 

premises, is the base for a range of 

pizzas as well as Tilou Kanawa’s very 

popular tacos. There’s also chicken, 

burgers, and salads. Lunch and dinner 

menus offer fish and seafood dishes, 

along with soups, chowders, and 

callaloo. Traditional ingredients and 

sides include roucou, tonton, dasheen 

croquettes, and more. Ingredients are 

sourced locally as much as possible, 

and seafood comes from Kalinago 

fishermen. 

The restaurant has a mini gift shop and 

can arrange tours around the Kalinago 

Territory. In addition to its food and 

drink, Tilou Kanawa is a great focal 

point for independent travellers with 

an interest in Kalinago culture. 

+17672954375 

OpenWednesdaytoSundayforlunchanddinner

WHERE TO EAT 

ZEB ZEPIS BISTRO 

PONT CASSE 

- Heart of Dominica (B3) - 

Husband and wife team Eileen (from 

SVG/Trinidad, trained in Manhattan at 

the Culinary Institute of America) and 

Jacques (a professional chef from 

France) have been in the restaurant 

business together for over 30 years. 

In 2019, having fallen in love with 

Dominica six years prior, they opened 

Zeb Zepis Bistro (French Creole for 

‘herbs and spices’) in the rainforest 

surroundings of Pont Casse where 

they create a ‘Caribbean /French 

fusion’ dining experience using a 

combination of local produce – much 

of it from their own organic garden in 

the village of Delices – and a medley of 

international culinary influences. 

On what they describe as an ‘everchanging’ 

lunch menu, depending on 

what is in season and available, dishes 

are always varied, artistic, and original. 

On one daily menu board, for example, 

main course options included grilled 

seafood plate, T-bone steak in 

mushroom and garlic butter, jerk 

tenderloin pork forestiere, grilled 

grouper, and octopus in Creole sauce. 

All were accompanied by creative 

sides such as green papaya, grilled 

zucchini, and fried roasted breadfruit. 

A good selection of wines from the 

Limoux and Luberon regions of France 

is on offer to accompany your meal. 

There is a palpable joy in cooking at 

Zeb Zepis Bistro that is consistently 

transferred from the kitchen to the 

lunch plate. Bon appetit. 

+17673163005 

zebzepisbistro@gmail.com 

Open12noonto3pmThursdaytoSunday 

Reservationsrecommended.


Banana Lama Eco Villa & Cottages 

Charlotte Estate BnB 

Citrus Creek Plantation 

Cocoa Cottage 

Coulibri Ridge 

Fort Young Hotel 

Hibiscus Valley Inn 

Hideaways of Tibay Heights 

Mango Garden Cottage 

Mountain Caapi Cottages 

Roots Jungle Retreat 

Sea Cliff Eco-Cottages 

Secret Bay 

Tamarind Tree Hotel & Restaurant 

Tana’s World 

Villa Passiflora & Cottage


BANANA LAMA ECO VILLA & COTTAGES 

NEWFOUNDLAND,ROSALIE 


Entirely off-grid and nestled within 

three acres of riverside, organic farm, 

and forested land, Banana Lama is a 

fully self-sustainable, peaceful, and 

private accommodation option for 

independent nature-loving travellers. 

Three artistically designed and 

furnished self-contained cottages each 

have one bedroom, private bathroom, 

kitchen, living area, and large covered 

veranda overlooking gardens and river. 

Their open design embraces nature 

while also retaining privacy. 

Meals can be prepared for guests. 

Hosts, Melissa and Andy, have sailed 

around the world on superyachts and 

the diverse cuisine that they expertly 

prepare is a reflection of their travels. 

Usually, prepared meals are taken in 

the main villa, but during covid times 

they are delivered to the cottages for 

guests to enjoy in their own sanctuary. 

Banana Lama is fed by spring water 

and solar power, organic vegetables 

and fruits are grown in the garden, and 

access to the gorgeous river pools is 

via short and private garden paths. 

In 2017, bridges connecting Banana 

Lama to the main road were destroyed 

by hurricane. Access is therefore by 

zipline or on foot across two shallow 

rivers. It’s truly a great escape. 

Nearby attractions include Sari Sari 

Falls and Victoria Falls, Rosalie Bay 

turtle nesting sites, and Emerald Pool. 

www.bananalamaecovilla.com 

+17672451912/08 

bananalamaecovilla@mailbox.as


CHARLOTTE ESTATE BED & BREAKFAST 

NEWTOWN,ROSEAU 


An immaculately refurbished 

plantation style house set in 

manicured gardens at the heart of an 

18th century estate, this is an elegant 

accommodation option, conveniently 

located on the southern outskirts of 

the capital, Roseau. 

Set on the forested hillside behind the 

colourful and often lively suburb of 

Newtown, and enjoying excellent 

Caribbean Sea views, Charlotte Estate 

has three charming bedrooms in the 

main house and a further two in the 

detached garden cottage. 

All three bedrooms in the main house 

are spacious, modern, and stylish in 

design but are also fully in keeping 

with traditional colonial Caribbean 

architectural features such as a 

covered veranda, high ceiling for 

ventilation, and wooden hurricane 

shutters. All three rooms have AC, a 

large private bathroom with shower, 

ceiling fan, and mosquito net. 

The modern two rooms in the cottage 

also have private bathrooms. 

The main house has a spacious ‘great 

room’ that is furnished with leather 

sofas on one side and a meeting/ 

conference area on the other. 

There is also a reception desk where 

guests can book a range of tours and 

guide services, and a small bar where 

alcoholic and non-alcoholic 

refreshments are available throughout 

the day. 

Enjoy breakfast every morning out on 

the veranda taking in the awesome sea 

views. 

The main house and cottage are 

surrounded by expansive ornamental 

and organic kitchen gardens with 

numerous mature fruit trees. Guests 

are free to explore, relax, and discover 

the ruins of the original estate. 

The heart of the capital, Roseau, and 

the old French Quarter are a short 

walk away, and it’s just a 15-minute 

drive to Trafalgar Falls, the hot 

volcanic spas of Wotten Waven, and 

Papillote Gardens. 

TiTou Gorge and the trails to 

Middleham Falls, Boiling Lake, Boeri 

and Freshwater Lake, are also very 

accessible from Charlotte Estate. 

www.charlotteestatebnb.com 

+17673171343/+17676163495 

charlotteestatebnb@gmail.com


CITRUS CREEK PLANTATION 

TABERI,LA PLAINE 


Located in a secluded position along 

the bank of the Taberi River, and within 

walking distance of the beach and 

giant leatherback turtle nesting site at 

Bout Sable Bay, Citrus Creek is set in a 

20-acre protected valley of lush forest 

and organic permaculture cultivation 

in the southeast of Dominica. 

This private, relaxed, and comfortable 

setting allows guests to feel perfectly 

safe and at home in one of six 

individually styled wood and stone 

cottages and villas – part of a rental 

pool programme. Each has its own 

tropical garden along the river and can 

accommodate travelling couples, 

families, or groups of friends. 

The accommodation options are all 

fully equipped for self-catering 

holidays, but there’s also the fabulous 

on-site Riverside Café which is open 

for lunch and dinner by reservation 

seven days a week. 

There are many natural attractions and 

hiking trails in Dominica’s peaceful and 

unspoilt southeast – for example, the 

magnificent Victoria Falls and Sari Sari 

Falls. There are also off the beaten 

track expeditions such as Bolive Falls, 

Perdu Temps and the historic Chemin 

L’Etang. Citrus Creek’s experienced 

guides can accompany you on these 

and other island outings, including 

seasonal nighttime turtle watching. 

www.citruscreekplantation.com 

+17676133113 

citruscreekplantation@gmail.com


COCOA COTTAGE 

SHAWFORD 

- Roseau Valley (B4) - 

Located in a small hamlet called 

Shawford in the Roseau Valley – about 

half-way between the capital and the 

Trafalgar Falls – Cocoa Cottage offers 

unique, hand-crafted accommodation 

within a one-acre tropical garden. 

Choose from five artistically designed, 

comfortable rooms, or a fully equipped 

detached tree house. Communal areas 

include a living room, a large kitchen 

and dining area, outdoor patio, and 

garden. The kitchen and dining area is 

a very social space where guests like to 

hang out, chat, and exchange tips, 

ideas, and recommendations. It’s also a 

place for enjoying some great 

vegetarian food. 

Fresh products are sourced from local 

farmers and prepared to order – 

Caribbean style breakfast, dinner, or 

take out picnics are available. 

The self-contained tree house is opensided, 

studio style, designed to connect 

living space with the sights and sounds 

of nature. A short walk from the main 

building, and perched above a stream, 

access is via a walkway and steps. 

Comfortably accommodating up to six 

people, it’s a good option for travelling 

friends or a nature-loving family. The 

kitchen is fully equipped, and ample 

living space offers a range of forest and 

garden views. 

The spacious Jwa Room on the first 

floor of the main cottage has a king 

bed, a lounge area, en suite bathroom, 

large windows, and a private balcony 

overlooking the gardens. 

Sharing the first floor is the Kako 

Room which has a queen bed, en suite 

bathroom, porch, and views over the 

main patio and garden. 

The Fou Fou Room is on the ground 

floor of the main cottage and has a 

queen bed, private bathroom, and a 

spacious veranda overlooking the 

garden. 

Also on the ground floor is the familyfriendly 

Bwa Room with queen bed, 

two singles, private bathroom, and 

garden-facing veranda. 

The detached Honeymoon Suite is 

located close to the main cottage and 

has king bed, en suite bathroom, and a 

spacious private veranda with forest, 

garden, and stream views. 

Cocoa Cottage is well placed for 

exploring many attractions. As well as 

being a short drive or bus ride to 

Roseau, it’s close to Trafalgar Falls, the 

hot spas of Wotten Waven, TiTou 

Gorge, and trailheads for Boiling Lake 

and Middleham Falls. 

www.cocoacottagedominica.com 

+17673168746 

cocoa.cottage.dominica@gmail.com

Bring the Island to You With 

All-Inclusive, Island-Included

Re-imagine the resort experience with All-Inclusive, Island-Included by Fort Young Hotel & Dive Resort, 

the newest way to immerse yourself in all Dominica has to offer. Designed for the colorful and curious 

who seek unconventional adventures distinct to Dominica, our Island-Included package allows you to 

embark on tailored experiences beyond the hotel that will allow you to maximize your island escape, all 

at one easy price. 

To make your escape to Fort Young Hotel & Dive Resort, book direct or contact your preferred travel agent. 

1-767-448-5000 | info@fortyounghotel.com | fortyounghotel.com 

Victoria Street, Roseau, Dominica, Caribbean West Indies 

DISCOVER MORE


HIBISCUS VALLEY INN 

CONCORD 


Swedish-owned Hibiscus Valley Inn is 

an eco-friendly guesthouse located in 

the Pagua River Valley in the 

countryside hamlet of Concord, near 

the northern boundary of the Kalinago 

Territory. Its accommodation is 

comprised of eight ‘nature bungalow’ 

rooms and four ‘semi-deluxe’ rooms. 

The rustic nature bungalow rooms are 

nestled within tropical garden 

surroundings. They are individually 

designed wooden hideaways with 

private bathroom and covered porch. 

Access to each is via a garden pathway 

from the main building. Some of the 

bungalows are designed and equipped 

for nature-loving families, others for 

couples and solo travellers. 

Semi-deluxe rooms can be found in the 

main house. They are comfortable 

hotel rooms with private entrance, en 

suite bathrooms, air conditioning, and 

tea and coffee making facilities. Semideluxe 

rooms may be connected to suit 

couples travelling with children. 

Hibiscus Valley Inn offers a wide 

selection of managed tour experiences 

as well as all-inclusive accommodation 

and tour packages. A comprehensive 

menu of tours includes sightseeing, 

hiking to suit all abilities, river tubing, 

birdwatching, exploring the Kalinago 

Territory, whale watching and more. 

Artists, writers, natural history 

societies and researchers, and 

travelling groups of family and friends 

will find this a welcoming, flexible, and 

value-for-money accommodation 

option. Being as environmentally 

friendly, family and community 

oriented as possible is important to the 

long-time Swedish owners of the inn 

and its associated tour company. 

The rustic open-sided veranda 

restaurant at Hibiscus Valley Inn 

serves a high standard of Caribbean 

cuisine with an international flare, and 

the Bush Bar is a comfortable place to 

hang out with a local rum punch. 

The location of Hibiscus Valley Inn 

means that it is handy for the Douglas- 

Charles Airport (a 15-minute drive), 

the cultural sights and sounds of the 

Kalinago Territory, the Waitukubuli 

National Trail, the Charles Warner 

‘Secret Pool’ Trail, the Red Rocks at 

Point Baptiste, and the beautiful 

beaches of the northeast. Follow the 

Imperial Road into the Heart of 

Dominica to visit several waterfalls 

including Emerald Pool and Spanny 

Falls, and the historically important 

Jacko Steps Trail. 

Hibiscus Valley Inn has been the 

recipient of Tripadvisor awards for a 

number of years. 

www.hibiscusvalley.com 

+17672763694 

hibiscusvalleyinn@gmail.com


HIDEAWAYS OF TIBAY HEIGHTS 

TIBAY,PORTSMOUTH 

- West coast (A2) - 

Hideaways is a collection of 

handcrafted, treehouse-style cottages 

conveniently located on a wooded 

hillside near Portsmouth. The two selfcontained, 

artisanal cottages offer a 

quiet retreat for nature lovers and 

independent adventurers. Each unique 

eco-cottage is private, secure, and 

naturally ventilated, with kitchenette, 

open-air lounge, en suite bathrooms 

and panoramic sea views. 

Madé Cottage has two levels with two 

queen bedrooms and a large sun deck, 

perfect for couples and families with 

older children. 

FouFou Cottage is ideal for a couple, 

with a king suite and wide veranda. 

The large, part-forested garden is for 

guests to enjoy. It has a dining pergola 

and a fire pit, both hand-crafted and 

unique in their design. 

Hideaways is a short distance from the 

Syndicate Nature Trail and Syndicate 

Falls, as well as the trail to the top of 

Morne Diablotin, Dominica’s tallest 

peak. The Cabrits National Park is a 

great place to explore, nearby 

Riperton, Coconut, and Purple Turtle 

beaches are excellent, and there are 

two dive shops in the area. 

Hideaways is joyful, scenic, and 

professionally run cottage 

accommodation that will suit natureloving 

independent travellers. 

www.hideawaysdominica.com 

+17672857480 

info@hideawaysdominica.com

Madé COTTAGE 

Madé COTTAGE 

Madé COTTAGE 

FOUFOU COTTAGE 

FOUFOU COTTAGE 

WELCOME 

FIRE PIT


MANGO GARDEN COTTAGES 

GUILLET,PORTSMOUTH 

- West coast (A2) - 

Located on a forested hillside in the 

peaceful hamlet of Guillet near 

Portsmouth, eco-friendly Mango 

Garden Cottages is ideally placed for 

hiking, beach, and watersports 

activities in the north of Dominica. 

The little villa is a great self-contained 

accommodation option for travelling 

families and friends. With two en suite 

studio style rooms and a fully equipped 

kitchen and dining room, guests can 

relax in privacy and comfort. 

The second cottage is home to two 

spacious studios, each with en suite 

bathroom, fully equipped kitchen, 

dining area, and private verandas with 

views of rainforest covered mountains 

and Caribbean Sea. 

Hosts Sylvia and Eddison are happy to 

prepare breakfast and dinner on 

request, and guests are also welcome 

to join in with the cooking and learn 

about Dominica’s fresh produce. The 

gardens themselves are home to 

around 40 different fruit species, and 

there are fresh herbs in abundance. 

Eddison is a licensed and experienced 

tour guide who offers a range of land 

and water tours including the nearby 

Indian River. 

There are plenty of great hiking trails 

in the area, three dive shops, lovely 

beaches and bays, and also the Cabrits 

National Park which can be seen 

across Douglas Bay from the cottage 

verandas. 

www.mangogarden.dm 

+17672771371 

info@mangogarden.dm


ROOTS JUNGLE RETREAT 

CONCORD 


Set in 1.5 acres of wonderfully 

secluded rainforest, Roots Jungle 

Retreat is a sustainable cabin 

accommodation option that 

guarantees peace, relaxation, and a 

close connection with nature. 

Suitable for couples, travelling families, 

or groups of friends - perhaps even 

writers and artists looking for some 

inspiration - the wooden cabins are 

private and comfortably disconnected 

from the noise of the world. 

Completely off-grid, Roots has a 

hydroturbine generator in the nearby 

Bamboo River for electricity 

generation, and an organic garden. 

There are walking trails around, a river 

pool and cascade, and a playground for 

children. A family-run business, Roots 

is a great place for children and adults 

to explore and learn about the flora 

and fauna of the rainforest. 

Home-made, healthy meals can be 

provided by the Roots restaurant 

whose elevated deck enjoys forest and 

garden views. 

Ideally located for exploring the 

Kalinago Territory and the natural 

attractions and hiking trails of 

Dominica’s interior and east coast, 

Roots offers accompanied guide 

services and welcomes group retreats. 

www.rootsjungle.com 

+17672958895 

rootsjungleretreat@gmail.com 

RE-OPENING 

15 FEB 2022


SEA CLIFF ECO-COTTAGES 

CALIBISHIE 

- North coast (B2) - 

Located within two acres of tropical 

gardens and enjoying fabulous ocean 

and mountain views, Sea Cliff’s five 

solar-powered, self-contained eco 

cottages are a great choice for 

independent travellers, with or 

without children. 

From studio to two-bedroom, twobathroom 

accommodation options, 

each cottage is light-filled and airy with 

cathedral style ceilings, kitchen 

facilities, and spacious covered 

balconies. All enjoy awesome views. 

In addition to solar power, Sea Cliff 

Eco-Cottages does all it can to be a 

nature friendly place to stay, 

composting natural waste, and 

encouraging guests to try to have a 

minimal environmental impact. 

A short walk down a nearby trail brings 

guests to the pretty Hodges Bay with 

its rarely visited black and white sand 

beach, and sheltered waters for 

swimming and snorkelling. 

The must-see Red Rocks of Pointe 

Baptiste are a short distance from the 

cottages, and the welcoming village of 

Calibishie has several shops, bars, and 

restaurants. Additionally, Douglas- 

Charles Airport is a handy 20-minute 

drive away. 

Cooled by an ocean breeze, a Sea Cliff 

Eco-Cottages balcony is a wonderful 

place to simply hang out and enjoy the 

views. For the more adventurous, it’s 

also ideally located for exploring the 

beaches, trails, and waterfalls of the 

north. 

www.seacliffdominica.com 

+16464271808 

seacliffdominica@gmail.com

A Six-Star 

Resort Experience 

Secret Bay brings six-star luxury to Dominica, the nature island of the Caribbean, offering 

a tranquil, secluded sanctuary to reconnect with nature, one another and oneself. With 

award-winning villas renowned for their artful fusion of high design, local craftsmanship 

and open-air residences, Secret Bay getaway is truly enveloped in natural luxury. 

We believe indulgence shouldn’t stop there. 

Our luxurious amenities complete the most 

unrivaled, romantic Caribbean escape. Begin 

your day with a rejuvenating yoga class at the 

Bwa Mang Wellness Pavilion, find peace 

of both body and mind at the Gommier 

Spa, delight in succulent local fare at Zing 

Zing restaurant and cap your evening with 

cocktails on the Vetivert Sunset Deck. 

Indulge in three of Secret Bay’s much 

anticipated new amenities, Mouben 

Welcome House, Gwiyavye’ Lap Pool and 

Bar and Zing Zing Bar and Lounge. This 

evolution is part of our master plan, spread 

over 40+ acres of pristine coastal rainforest, 

and allows us to have more amenities and 

private villas, while at the same time lowers 

our overall density — affording our guests the 

utmost in the luxury of time and space and 

complete and unrivaled Caribbean escape. 

Both at and beyond Secret Bay await a host of 

perspective-shifting, life-altering experiences. 

Whether you choose to journey “within” 

alongside our seasoned healers, explore the 

living, breathing rainforest or rappel into the 

depths of the island on a waterfall canyoning 

adventure, guests are guaranteed to leave 

Dominica forever changed. 

Resort rates from US $897 per night 

Real estate opportunities from US $208K per share or US $1.49M per villa 

DISCOVER MORE


TAMARIND TREE HOTEL & RESTAURANT 

SALISBURY 


Centrally located on Dominica’s west 

coast, and enjoying clifftop views of 

the Caribbean Sea, the welcoming, 

family-run Tamarind Tree Hotel has 15 

double rooms with en suite bathrooms, 

ceiling fans, and porch. Superior rooms 

also have AC. 

Additionally, there are three twobedroom 

self-catering cottages that 

are a great option for families. Each 

cottage has en suite bathrooms, a 

communal living area, a fully equipped 

kitchen, and a veranda deck. 

Tamarind Tree has a large garden with 

swimming pool, sun loungers, and 

jacuzzi. The separate open-sided 

restaurant and bar at the end of the 

garden serves breakfast, lunch, and 

dinner to order and offers a changing 

menu of Creole and international 

dishes, depending on what is fresh and 

in season. 

A popular option for European 

travellers, with English, French, and 

German spoken, Tamarind Tree Hotel 

has been in operation for many years 

and has the knowledge and experience 

to assist guests with 

recommendations, tours, guides, 

passes, and transportation needs. 

Nearby natural attractions include 

Mero Beach, National Trail segments 

nine and ten, the Syndicate Nature 

Trail, Morne Diablotin, and a beautiful 

off-the-beaten path waterfall at 

Macoucherie. 

www.tamarindtreedominica.com 

+17676165258 

hotel@tamarindtreedominica.com


TANA’S WORLD 

LA PLAINE 


Nestled alongside the Taberi River in the protected valley of Citrus Creek 

Plantation near the quiet village of La Plaine in southeast Dominica, Tana’s World 

comprises two artist-designed cottages - one built in hardwood, the other in stone. 

VANILVANESS 

A spacious stone cottage with two 

bedrooms containing king beds with a 

further three singles available, Vanil 

Vaness is a great option for a natureloving 

family or a group of friends. 

There is a spacious, fully equipped 

kitchen with dining area, private 

bathrooms and showers, and a rooftop 

terrace with lovely views. A short walk 

down a garden path leads to the river 

and a pretty bathing pool. 

With artistic use of mosaics and 

driftwood, this is an exceptionally 

charming countryside retreat. 

KASHIMA 

Kashima is a beautiful hardwood 

cottage that is also located along the 

river within its own garden area. It has 

one bedroom with king bed and a 

mezzanine containing two single beds. 

It has a fully equipped kitchen with 

garden outlook, private bathroom, 

outdoor shower, and a very spacious 

gazebo. Private, comfortable, and 

designed with a distinct artistic flair, 

Kashima would ideally suit a natureloving 

couple or a family of four. 

Nearby attractions include several 

waterfalls, a turtle-watching beach, 

rivers, and walking trails. 

www.tanaquilpfund.wixsite.com/tana-s-world 

+17673157979 

tanaquilpfund@gmail.com


VILLA PASSIFLORA & COTTAGE 

CALIBISHIE 

- East coast (B2) - 

THEVILLA 

Enjoying panoramic ocean views in a 

tranquil and scenic coastal setting, 

Villa Passiflora is an exquisite 

accommodation choice for travelling 

families and small groups of friends. 

Situated between the Red Rocks of 

Pointe Baptiste and the secluded 

beach of Hodges Bay, the private 

three-bedroom villa combines 

elegance with comfort and 

functionality. 

Each artistically designed bedroom is 

large, airy, and spacious with its own 

en suite bathroom. The master suite 

also enjoys an adjoining study. 

The villa’s open-plan design features 

large, covered galleries and verandas 

as well as a fully equipped kitchen and 

spacious dining area, sun deck and 

infinity pool. Local craftspeople have 

contributed much to the unique 

features, design, and décor of the villa. 

Louvre windows and breezes from the 

Atlantic keep temperatures cool and 

comfortable, and all beds have 

mosquito nets should the need arise. 

For a certain periods of the year, Villa 

‘Staycations’ are available for local 

people who are looking to get away 

and recharge. Check the website for 

details. 

THECOTTAGE 

Located in the lush and partly forested 

private gardens of the villa, the onebedroom 

detached cottage also enjoys 

lovely ocean views and a cool breeze. 

Designed in a similar style to the villa, 

with large louvre windows, spacious 

living and sleeping quarters, and a fully 

equipped kitchen, the cottage is a 

peaceful and private escape for a 

travelling couple, an artist, or a writer. 

Take a walk through the gardens and 

follow the track down to a lovely beach 

where swimming is easy thanks to the 

shelter of the bay. Just up the road are 

the other-worldly Red Rocks and 

chocolate factory at Pointe Baptiste 

Estate, and a little beyond that the 

lovely coastal hamlet of Calibishie 

where there are shops, bars, and 

restaurants. 

In circumstances where travellers 

must quarantine on arrival in 

Dominica, both Villa and Cottage are 

certified Safe In Nature 

accommodation options and Villa 

Passiflora works in partnership with a 

local Safe In Nature certified tour 

guide with transportation and 

extensive knowledge of Dominica’s 

natural attractions. Cooked meals and 

shopping supplies can also be arranged 

in these circumstances. 

www.villapassiflora.com 

+14237181842/+17672453468 

info@villapassiflora.com

WHAT TO DO 

Less Beaten Paths 

Beaches 

Birds and 

Birdwatching 

Boeri Lake 

Boiling Lake 

Cabana Cliffs & 

Beaches 

Cabrits National Park 

Canyoning 

Charles Warner 

‘Secret Pool’ 

Emerald Pool 

Freshwater Lake 

Galion Loop 

Horseback Ridge 

Hot Springs 

Indian River 

Indigo Art Gallery 

Jacko Steps 

Kalinago Territory 

La Chaudiere 

Middleham Falls 

Morne Anglais 

Paradise Valley 

Red Rocks 

Sari Sari Falls 

Scuba Diving 

Snorkelling 

Sport Fishing 

Syndicate 

Trafalgar Falls 

Victoria Falls 

Whale Watching

WHAT TO DO 

LESS BEATEN PATHS 

Morne Trois Pitons trail

The Waitukubuli National Trail isn’t in 

great shape right now. While some 

segments have been cleared, others have 

been left to nature. Its current condition is 

due to several factors, one of which was 

hurricane Maria in 2017. Apparently, 

there’s a plan and funding available to 

rehabilitate the trail – and in some cases 

(e.g., segments eight and nine) rediscover it 

– but this has not happened yet. For this 

reason, it’s unrealistic to plan on hiking the 

whole thing in 2022. More realistic is not to 

view the trail as one 200km route, but as 14 

individual trails, some of which are 

passable, some of which are not. Accurate 

trail status information is not available 

online, however, so ask your hotelier to 

make some enquiries for you if this is 

something you’re keen to do. 

Another excellent trail that is currently 

impassable is the hike to the top of Morne 

Trois Pitons. Hopefully, this will be fixed in 

2022. 

Dominica has a vast network of trails, a 

great number of which are historic. Many 

are not recognized as official hiking trails 

which feels like an opportunity missed. 

Good examples are the track to Lamothe 

River Falls above the village of Cottage, the 

track from the Middleham Falls Trail to the 

three small bodies of water beyond Boeri 

Lake, the alternate routes to the Boiling 

Lake from Freshwater Lake, Morne Jaune, 

Morne Prosper, and Delices, the Boli Falls 

Trail, and the track to the top of Morne Aux 

Diables. And there are many, many others. 

Most visitors with limited time can satisfy 

themselves with the recognized and 

established trails, but those who return for 

second and even third visits may wish to dig 

deeper and ask their hiking guides about 

some of these less beaten paths. 

The trail to the top of Morne Diablotin is 

currently clear which is usually more than 

you can say about the views from the 

summit. Think about this when planning 

your valuable hiking time – it’s a tough allday 

slog to the top and back down again. 

Take a guide. Morne Anglais may only be 

the fifth highest peak but it’s usually the 

best when it comes to views. Sadly, it’s not 

signposted but once you find the trailhead 

it’s straightforward. Morne Micotrin is a 

Lamothe River Falls 

Lakes beyond Boeri

arely climbed mountain but there’s a 

good track and the views across the 

Morne Trois Pitons National Park are 

spectacular when it’s clear. If you do 

fancy bagging this peak, take a guide and 

be careful negotiating the scrapyard of 

antennas at the top (apparently this peak 

experiences more than its fair share of 

lightning strikes). 

Kachibona Lake is thought to be the 

former site of a Maroon camp and the 

walk through the rainforest from 

Colihaut Heights is a lovely one. The 

route follows WNT segment 9 for a 

stretch, but it’s probably a good idea to 

have a guide for when the trail splits. 

Perdu Temps is a wonderful trail that 

joins Grand Bay with Delices. It skirts the 

forested margins of the Foundland 

volcano, following and crossing rivers all 

the way. It’s not signposted and is 

notoriously difficult to follow due to the 

number of river crossings. If you can find 

a guide who knows it, this is a great hike 

to add to your less beaten paths list. 

Chemin L’Etang is the name of the trail 

that was once the main route joining 

Roseau in the west with Rosalie in the 

east. Now, what’s left of the original 

track connects the Freshwater Lake with 

Grand Fond village. It’s a nice walk, 

though irregularly maintained. There are 

a couple of waterfalls along the way. 

Try to hike the Jacko Steps Trail. Rarely 

promoted and privately maintained, it’s a 

historic and world class hiking trail. 

Jacko Steps Trail

Kachibona Lake

WHAT TO DO 

BEACHES 

Despite the fact that Dominica is known 

more for its forests and waterfalls than 

its stretches of sand, it does have a good 

number of lovely beaches and bays. 

On the west coast, Mero is a long, dark 

sand beach that’s popular with locals and 

visitors. It’s also the beach that cruise 

ship tourists are brought to, so you may 

want to check the schedule before you 

go. With several small shops, bars, and 

eateries along its margins, Mero also 

offers showers, sunbeds, and 

watersports equipment rental in the high 

season. 

Purple Turtle Beach is on the west coast, 

just north of Portsmouth. It’s a light sand 

beach with shallow and calm water, 

protected by the Cabrits headland. This 

makes the beach a good option for 

travellers with small children. There are 

several small bars and restaurants as 

well as a yacht servicing operation.

Woodford Hill Beach is a lovely stretch 

of white sand on the margins of a large 

bay that may once have been an 

anchorage for traders, privateers, 

perhaps even pirates. Although on 

occasion the Atlantic can be a little 

choppy for swimming, this is one of 

Dominica’s finest beaches. 

Also in the Woodford Hill area is Turtle 

Beach, an idyllic cove of white sand 

with a rustic beach bar offering plenty 

of local colour and sounds. 

Batibou Beach is located near the 

village of Calibishie and is accessed via 

a private road which commands a fee. 

The white sand beach is fringed by 

coconut palms and sheltered by the 

crescent bay. 

Nearby Hampstead Beach was a film 

location for Pirates of the Caribbean, and 

often experiences high surf.

WHAT TO DO 

BIRDS AND 

BIRDWATCHING 

Jaco parrot (Lu Szumskyj)

Around 200 species of bird have been 

recorded in Dominica, most of which are 

migratory. Endemic species include the 

imperial Amazon parrot (Amazona 

imperialis, known locally as the sisserou) 

and the red-necked parrot (Amazona 

arausiaca, known locally as the jaco). 

Whereas the sisserou is mostly observed in 

the elevated rainforest habitat of the 

Morne Diablotin National Park, the Jaco is 

far more widespread and is often heard, if 

not always seen, on many of Dominica’s 

hiking trails. 

Dominica hikers will also encounter the 

soulful call of the rufous-throated solitaire 

(Myadestes genibarbis, known locally as 

mountain whistler or siffleur montagne). 

Other species found in Dominica’s forests 

include: the Lesser Antillean flycatcher 

(Myiarchus oberi), the scaly-breasted 

thrasher (Margarops fuscus), the brown 

trembler (Cinclocerthia rufcauda), the 

plumbeous warbler (Dendroica plumbea), 

the ground dove (Columbina passerine), and 

the forest thrush (Cichlerminia iherminieri). 

Four species of hummingbird have been 

recorded: the purple-throated Carib 

(Eulampis jugularis), the green-throated 

Carib (Sericotes holosericeus), the Antillean 

crested hummingbird (Orythorhyncus 

cristatus), and the regionally endemic blueheaded 

hummingbird (Cyanophaia bicolor). 

Brown trembler 

Lesser Antillean flycatcher 

River habitats are home to the belted 

kingfisher (Ceryle alcyon), the ringed 

kingfisher (Ceryle torquatus), the green 

heron (Butorides virescens), the common 

moorhen (Gallinula chloropus), and the 

Caribbean coot (Fulica caribea). Along the 

coast, it’s common to see magnificent 

frigatebirds (Fregata magnificens) and brown 

pelicans (Pelecanus occidentalis). 

A popular spot for birdwatching is along the 

Syndicate Nature Trail in the Morne 

Diablotin National Park. Both species of 

parrot are here as well as many of the 

forest dwelling birds mentioned above. 

Take a boat ride along the Indian River to 

see a wide variety of water birds. 

Bertrand Jno Baptiste, aka Dr. Birdy is 

Dominica’s go-to birdwatching guide (Email: 

drbirdy2@cwdom.dm) 

Purple-throated hummingbird (Lu Szumskyj)

WHAT TO DO 

BOERI LAKE 

(B4) 

At an elevation of 853m, the twohectare 

Boeri Lake is Dominica’s 

highest body of water. Filling a crater 

between Morne Trois Pitons and 

Morne Micotrin, it’s also remote and 

serene with the silence only broken 

by the occasional call of the rufousthroated 

solitaire, or mountain 

whistler, itself a solitary soul in the 

wilds of the national park. 

Considering the lush vegetation all 

around, the lake often looks and feels 

quite bereft of life and can be an eerie 

place, especially when low mist drifts 

in and enshrouds the water and 

surrounding montane thicket covered 

slopes, which is often. 

They say the lake is around 40m deep. 

It certainly feels like there’s a lot of

water beneath you when you swim in 

it. Be warned, it’s very cold. 

The hike to Boeri is short – usually 

under one hour – but it can be a little 

tricky due to the slippery rocks you 

have to negotiate from around the 

half-way point onwards. The first part 

of the hike is a climb to the top of a 

narrow ridge from where there are 

nice views of the Freshwater Lake and 

surrounding peaks (Morne Watt, 

Morne Anglais, Morne Micotrin, and 

Morne Trois Pitons). 

Trail end is up and over a few rocks 

and boulders to the Boeri Lake 

shoreline.

WHAT TO DO 

BOILING LAKE 

(C4) 

Dominica’s Boiling Lake Trail is the 

island’s signature and most 

spectacular hike. If you visit Dominica 

just once in your life, then the Boiling 

Lake should really be at the top of 

your ‘to do’ list. Having said that, it’s 

quite a challenge. A full day thereand-back 

hike that takes in rainforest, 

a mountain peak, an active volcanic 

caldera, river crossings, vertiginous 

ridges, and a little bit of rock climbing, 

the Boiling Lake Trail is all about the 

journey. The lake itself is a geothermal 

pool that occupies a volcanic crater 

that is filled by two streams and 

superheated from below by a giant 

fumarole. Though these things are 

debated, after Frying Pan Lake in New 

Zealand, the Boiling Lake is said to be 

the world’s second largest 

geothermal pool, just ahead of Grand 

Prismatic Spring in Yellowstone 

National Park, USA. 

There are several known hiking 

routes to the Boiling Lake - most of 

which are not maintained - but the 

most beaten path for recreational 

hikers begins at TiTou Gorge near the 

elevated village of Laudat above the 

Roseau Valley. 

Boiling Lake (Celia Sorhaindo)

The first hour of the trail is an uphill track 

through dense rainforest before it turns 

sharply down to the Breakfast River. 

From here, it’s a steep climb to the 

summit of Morne Nicholls where there 

are great 360-degree views of the west 

coast and the surrounding volcanic peaks 

of the Morne Trois Pitons National Park. 

To the east, it’s often possible to see the 

steam rising from the Boiling Lake itself. 

The descent of Morne Nicholls into the 

Valley of Desolation is steep and often 

wet and muddy. At the bottom, wooden 

steps, often dripping with water, and a 

narrow rock chute add to the challenge. 

Enter the Valley of Desolation via a 

narrow track along a steep bank and take 

in the volcanic activity of the broad 

caldera before you. It’s filled with 

countless fumaroles, breaching the 

surface in streams, pools, and mud. Some 

expel steam violently from vents 

between rocks that are stained in the 

colours of the volcanic compounds that 

are prevalent here. 

The route across the Valley of Desolation 

is not marked and this is where a guide 

can help. Local knowledge and trail 

experience count for a lot on this hike. 

The Valley of Desolation is in two parts 

separated by a section of forest that runs 

alongside and crosses a couple of small 

rivers that have been heated by the 

volcanic activity of the caldera. There are 

several warm water mineral-rich pools 

that are worth enjoying on the return leg. 

The final section of the hike crosses 

another section of the valley and climbs 

steeply up to a plateau where the trail 

leads to the Boiling Lake itself. Avoid 

standing too close to the edge and don’t 

try to climb down. 

From time to time – as recently as 

November 2021, in fact – the lake 

empties. This happens when there is a 

blockage of some kind in the fumarole 

beneath. It means that the ground water 

no longer becomes super heated and

forced above the natural level of the 

water table to fill the crater. The 

blockage doesn’t usually last long but it’s 

a period when all hikers should exercise 

caution. Often the lake gradually returns 

as the fumarole unblocks itself, but on 

occasion the event is far more violent. 

For this reason, hikers should either 

avoid the lake (just hike to the Valley of 

Desolation, for example) or, at the very 

least, stay well back from it. 

The viewing area above the Boiling Lake 

often has an international feel with 

hikers from around the world resting 

there, exchanging tips and stories, and 

having a snack before heading back 

along the trail. 

Most people who have hiked the Boiling 

Lake Trail will tell you that the hardest 

part of the hike is yet to come: the ascent 

from the Valley of Desolation to the 

summit of Morne Nicholls. With the 

exception of the climb out of the 

Breakfast River Valley, it’s mostly 

downhill to TiTou Gorge from here. 

Set off early – ideally before 8am – as the 

hike will usually take anywhere between 

six to nine hours, depending on your 

level of fitness and how long you take a 

break at the lake and in the warm pools 

on the return leg. Remember that in 

winter darkness falls by 6pm. 

Be prepared for the hike. Wear good 

shoes or boots with a sole that works 

well on wet and slippery terrain. My 

preference is Merrill trail running shoes 

with Vibram soles because they are 

lightweight and work well on rocks and 

in rivers. Bring a waterproof bag for your 

phone, wallet etc. Even if it’s sunny when 

you set out, the interior of Dominica has 

its own climate, it seems. And when it 

rains, it rains hard. I usually walk wet and 

leave towel and change of clothes in the 

car. If you prefer to carry a change of 

clothing, keep it dry. A walking pole 

definitely helps and it’s worth carrying a 

head torch or flashlight just in case.

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WHAT TO DO 

CABANA CLIFFS & BEACHES 

(C2)

Cabana is the name of a beach between 

Wesley and Melville Hall on Dominica’s 

northeast coast. It’s where the start of a 

scenic beach and clifftop trail begins. 

Somewhat tricky to follow – you must look 

for red ribbons tied to bushes and trees 

which mark the route – this trail connects 

Cabana to Eden Estate, just south of 

Woodford Hill. It hugs the coastline along 

beaches, bays, and spectacular, though in 

places vertiginous, ‘red rock’ cliff 

formations. 

End-to-end takes about two hours (the 

coastal track continues beyond Eden but is 

less impressive) and, if you choose to try it 

without a guide, let someone know where 

you’re going. It’s quite easy to get lost or 

follow the wrong track, as there are spurs 

and shortcuts used by local fishermen 

(hence the floats and nets you may see). 

These red rock formations with their 

weather-beaten littoral woodland stretch 

all the way along the northeast coastline 

from Cabana to Calibishie with the most 

accessible area at Pointe Baptiste.

WHAT TO DO 

CABRITS 

NATIONAL PARK(A2) 

The Cabrits National Park was established 

in 1986. At around 500 hectares, it takes in 

the twin-peaked volcanic isthmus and 

wetlands that form the northern arc of 

Prince Rupert Bay at Portsmouth on 

Dominica’s northeast coast. 

The focal point of the park is the Fort 

Shirley Garrison, constructed by British 

governor, Sir Thomas Shirley in the 18th 

century. Part of the garrison has been 

restored, whereas the remaining buildings

are in ruins; ghostly spectres of the 

colonial past, often smothered by vines 

and ficus tree roots within the dry forest 

habitat of the park. 

With all the trees felled, more than 50 

buildings were constructed across the 

headland with canon batteries pointing 

out to sea and inland. In 1782, the 

garrison’s occupants would have 

witnessed the Battle of the Saintes, a 

naval engagement between the British 

and the French during the American 

Revolutionary War. Under the command 

of Sir George Rodney, the British 

inflicted a heavy defeat on the French 

fleet. 

Located next to a large area of wetlands, 

those stationed at the garrison suffered 

badly from malaria. To solve the problem, 

British soldiers were replaced by a 

regiment of enslaved Africans and 

Creoles who, it was assumed, would be

more tolerant of the conditions. In 1802, 

members of the 8th West India Regiment 

staged a revolt because Governor 

Andrew James Cochrane was using them 

to work on his estates without pay. The 

revolt lasted several days before the 

garrison was attacked by HMS 

Magnificent. Many of the regiment’s men 

died and those who escaped joined 

camps of Maroons (Africans who had 

escaped enslavement) in Dominica’s 

forests. The revolt was the only conflict 

of note that took place at Fort Shirley. 

Visitors today can enjoy the restored 

section of the garrison which includes 

the officers’ quarters, the upper battery 

and signal station, an ordnance store, the 

lower battery, the troop barracks, and 

the guardhouse. There are also lovely 

views across Prince Rupert Bay. 

There are two short and easy forest 

walks that are worth including in your 

visit. The West Cabrit Trail meanders 

through dry forest to the top of the 

western summit via a series of 

switchbacks. There are views across the 

channel to Guadeloupe and the Saintes, 

after which the battle was named. 

The East Cabrit Trail is the pick of the 

two with a series of garrison ruins to 

discover along the way. Most impressive 

are the commandant’s quarters, the 

ruins of another officers’ quarters, 

another guardhouse and ordnance store, 

and a gun battery that overlooks the 

wetlands with awesome views of the 

mountains of the interior, Prince Rupert 

Bay, and Douglas Bay. 

The name Cabrits comes from the 

French word cabri which means young 

goat, or kid. Goats would have had the 

run of the place and provided troops 

with food. 

In more normal times, Fort Shirley hosts 

the annual Jazz n Creole Festival which 

takes place in May.

WHAT TO DO 

CANYONING (B4)

Canyoning, or canyoneering, involves river 

hiking through a canyon or deep gorge. En 

route there are waterfalls to negotiate. This 

is achieved by rappelling down them to the 

pool below. The canyons are beautiful 

places with rock faces shaped and worn 

smooth by water over millennia. The river 

water itself is clear, cold, and pure. You 

don’t need to carry a water bottle. 

What you do need, however, is an expert to, 

quite literally, show you the ropes. Before 

setting off on the journey, there’s a training 

session. You don’t need any prior 

experience; all will be revealed. Training 

simply involves learning about how the 

harness and rappelling device work. This is 

usually followed by a practical session on a 

practice wall. By the time you set off for the 

canyon, you will have mastered it. 

Equipment is provided for you and includes 

harness and rappelling device, buoyancy 

jacket, wetsuit, and crash helmet. In terms 

of footwear, a pair of trainers or surf shoes 

are the best option. Open-toed sandals are 

not. A small waterproof camera is a great 

idea to record the adventure; GoPro or 

similar is the best choice – you may be able 

to rent one from the canyoning tour 

operator. 

Most canyoning trips begin in the river just 

below TiTou Gorge. Entry into the canyon is 

via a waterfall (the photo on the left). Your 

first rappel is followed by several more. The 

canyon has numerous small waterfalls, 

cascades, and deep pools. It is extremely 

beautiful, especially when the sun 

illuminates the river and canyon walls 

through the forest, which is now above you. 

The final rappel is into Cathedral Canyon 

(photo bottom right) which is perhaps the 

most beautiful of them all. From here, there 

is an exit point. A short uphill hike that 

follows a forest stream takes you all the 

way back to where you started. Depending 

on group numbers, a canyoning trip usually 

takes between two and four hours. 

Experienced canyoneers can continue 

down the river gorge where it eventually 

ends at the ‘father’ of Trafalgar Falls; the 

biggest and most spectacular rappel of 

them all.

WHAT TO DO 

CHARLES WARNER 

‘SECRET POOL’ (C3) 

Charles Warner was a British landowner, 

descendant of Sir Thomas Warner, and 

relative of Kalinago Chief Thomas ‘Indian’ 

Warner, who was murdered by his halfbother 

in the infamous massacre of 1764 

(after which the west coast village is named). 

Known by the Kalinago as the Paplol Pool, 

after a Kalinago landowner who opened up 

the area, this is a large and beautiful pool on 

the Charles Warner River within the 

northern margins of the Kalinago Territory. 

The trailhead is unmarked and difficult to 

find, so you may need a guide. It’s located on 

the south side of the Imperial Road between 

the village of Concord and an area known as 

Deux Branches near the Central Forest 

Reserve. 

A short track leads from a roadside clearing 

to the Pagua River which you must swim 

across. Up a steep bank on the other side, 

you are now in the Kalinago Territory. The 

trail continues through countryside and past 

farmland (ignore any spurs to the left), over 

a couple of ridges, and into thicker forest. 

You’ll reach the Charles Warner River where 

the trail hugs the right-hand bank. 

Sometimes the drops down to the river are 

quite steep and the trail slippery and eroded, 

so take care along this stretch which leads to 

the pool itself. It takes about an hour. 

It’s possible to climb up the cascade to 

further pools above.

WHAT TO DO 

EMERALD POOL 

(B3) 

Emerald Pool is a very accessible small 

waterfall and river pool in the Heart of 

Dominica. Along with Trafalgar Falls, 

it’s one of Dominica’s most visited and 

photographed natural attractions. 

Located on the road to Castle Bruce 

from Pont Casse, the large car park, 

visitor centre, and souvenir stalls tell 

you much of what you need to know. It 

can get busy here, especially when 

cruise ships are in port. 

If you’re in Dominica during the cruise 

ship season, try the Emerald Pool in the 

late afternoon when the tours have 

ended. It’s actually a nice time to visit 

as the sun illuminates the pool a little 

more past noon. 

From the visitor centre, a gravel and 

concrete path meanders through still 

recovering rainforest (it was badly 

damaged by hurricane Maria in 2017) 

to a viewpoint above the small river 

gulley. Concrete steps followed by a 

small bridge lead visitors to a viewing 

platform and the waterfall and pool. 

The Heart of Dominica has several 

accessible waterfalls including the twin 

Spanny Falls and Jacko Falls which are 

both accessed from the road between 

Pont Casse and Bells. They are also 

very busy during the cruise ship season. 

Less crowded is Saltoun Falls which is 

accessed via private land on the Layou 

Valley Road from Pont Casse.

WHAT TO DO 

FRESHWATER LAKE 

(C4) 

At an elevation of around 762m above 

sea level, and with a surface area of 

approximately four hectares, Freshwater 

Lake is Dominica’s largest body of inland 

water, filling the remains of a volcanic 

crater in the shadow of Morne Micotrin. 

Located near the village of Laudat, 

Freshwater Lake is marked simply as 

Étang (French for ‘lake’) on many old 

maps. It was an important stopping-off 

point on the Chemin L’ Étang (lake road) 

that was once the main route connecting 

Roseau on the west coast with Rosalie on 

the east coast. It’s still possible to walk 

what remains of the Chemin L’ Étang trail 

from the Freshwater Lake to Grand Fond 

village, though this track is irregularly 

maintained. 

The loop trail around the Freshwater 

Lake passes through lush and varied 

montane habitat and enjoys wonderful 

volcano views if the weather is on your

side. More often than not, however, the 

lake is shrouded in mist, it’s often rainy, 

and it looks more like northern Europe 

than the Caribbean. But that is its charm 

and its beauty. It’s also why this habitat 

thrives and recovers quickly from severe 

weather. 

will complete this loop in about an hour. 

Tackle it in a counterclockwise direction 

from the visitor centre to descend rather 

than ascend the steepest sections. 

The trail follows a narrow ridge line – the 

remnants of the crater rim – around the 

lake. Some parts are steep and slippery, 

so you must be careful, but most walkers

WHAT TO DO 

GALION LOOP 

(B5)

This is a picturesque two-hour loop hike in 

the southwest of Dominica that includes 

lovely coastal and mountain views, volcanic 

activity, and the villages of Galion and 

Soufriere. 

It’s an unmarked trail though easy to follow. 

The hardest part is finding the trailhead 

which is located on the coastal road 

between Soufriere and Scotts Head. About 

a third of the way from Soufriere, look for a 

wide track heading up the mountain behind 

a small brick building. This is a functional 

track that residents of Galion use to get 

down to and back up from the coastal road 

where buses run more frequently. 

It’s a steepish climb, especially at the 

beginning, passing between old dry-stone 

walls that go back to colonial times when 

this area was full of private estates 

(Soufriere, Morne Patates, Morne Rouge, 

and Bois Cotlette, for example). Passing via 

a series of switchbacks through dry coastal 

forest, and with lovely views down to 

Soufriere Bay and the Cachacrou isthmus, 

the path eventually reaches the village of 

Galion. 

Galion is located on the eastern rim of a 

volcanic crater that still shows signs of 

activity – look for the sulphur scars and the 

occasional whisp of steam along the 

southern face. Pass through the village and 

walk through the basin of the crater and up 

the other side, following the main road as it 

curves sharply to the left. 

After leaving the crater and heading 

downhill, take a right, following the WNT 

segment 1 signs (if they are there), and 

follow the wide track over a ridge and then 

down through woodland to a paved road 

junction. You should be able to see the large 

sulphur scars on the mountainside above 

Soufriere. Take a left and follow the road 

above wild pasture lands to another 

junction and head left again down into 

Soufriere. Walk through the village – 

perhaps stopping for some refreshments – 

and then rejoin the coastal road. 

Finish your walk with a swim in Soufriere 

Bay, either at Soufriere itself, or at 

Cachacrou where there’s also good 

snorkelling.

WHAT TO DO 

HORSEBACK RIDGE 

(C2)

Horseback Ridge began life as a narrow 

ridge path that connected the Kalinago 

Territory hamlets of Salybia and Bataca. 

There was also a very steep track down to 

the village of Touna in the Pagua River 

Valley. Those tracks are now extremely 

valuable paved roads that enable greater 

connectivity between hamlets as well as to 

farmlands. The journey between Salybia 

and Bataca is one of the most scenic walks 

on the island, yet it has always remained off 

the beaten path. 

Begin your walk in Salybia near the police 

station and the hurricane-damaged 

structure that once served as the Kalinago 

Council office. The southern end of 

Horseback Ridge leaves the main coastal 

road here and - as you might expect - heads 

rather steeply upwards along the narrow 

spine of the ridge. 

As you leave the village and ascend, the 

views of the Kalinago Territory and Atlantic 

coastline open up around you. Steep, 

farmed gardens can be seen of both sides of 

the ridge all the way to the crest where you 

will come across a three-way junction. 

Down to the left is a steep road to the 

hamlet of Touna. Straight on (over a 

somewhat patchier stretch of road) is the 

village of Bataca. Go straight and follow the 

ridge line as it sweeps back towards the 

sea, offering more amazing views. Expect to 

see jaco parrots here too. 

Arrive in the village of Bataca and, once at 

the main coastal road, turn right. If you are 

in need of refreshment, Bataca has several 

roadside snackettes. 

Follow the main road back through Crayfish 

River to Salybia and experience a little of 

how life plays out in the Territory. You will 

pass some craft stalls selling traditional 

basketware and carved calabash shells, and 

a cassava bakery. An optional diversion is 

to take the road down to Kalinago Barana 

Aute - the Kalinago ‘model village’ where 

traditional thatched structures, food, and 

heritage are showcased to visitors. 

The round trip will take about three hours, 

depending on how often you stop for 

breaks and to take photographs, of course.

WHAT TO DO 

HOT SPRINGS(B4)

Volcanic activity is evident around 

Dominica in the form of fumaroles. Magma 

layers at different depths heat ground 

water and send it to the surface via these 

fumarole vents. If the magma layer is 

relatively close to the surface, steam or hot 

water is forced out (for example, the Boiling 

Lake and Valley of Desolation), if it’s 

deeper, the water has time to cool before it 

emerges (for example, Cold Soufriere). A 

magma layer at the head of the Roseau 

Valley heats water through fumaroles in 

Laudat, Trafalgar (even Trafalgar’s ‘father’ 

falls), and Wotten Waven. 

In Wotten Waven, several entrepreneurial 

villagers have tapped this mineral-rich, 

volcanically heated water from rivers and 

streams to develop wellness spas. 

Creatively designed, often with tropical 

gardens and a few pools, they have 

collectively redefined Wotten Waven as 

Dominica’s spa village. 

Although the garden surroundings are 

usually lovely, it’s also nice to try the pools 

at nighttime under the stars. Most spas stay 

open late. Some offer mud treatments, 

scrubs, and so on, and some also offer 

refreshments. The spas are all different 

and everyone has a favourite. There are 

plenty to try out. 

Fumarole activity can be seen along 

riverbanks in the valley between 

Wotten Waven and Trafalgar, at 

Papillote Gardens, along the beach at 

Soufriere, on Champagne Reef, along 

the Boiling Lake Trail, in Glanvillea, and 

at Cold Soufriere in the far north of the 

island.

WHAT TO DO 

INDIAN RIVER 

(A2) 

Emerging along the coast a little to the 

south of Portsmouth, the Indian River 

lies just below sea level and is a brackish 

water habitat for a variety of flora and 

fauna. Shoals of mountain mullet can 

often be seen beneath the surface and 

Caribbean coots, kingfishers, and 

common moorhen are part of the wide 

variety of birdlife here. The Lesser 

Antillean Iguana also likes the thick and 

twisted mangrove trees that line the 

riverbanks which also provide sanctuary 

for crabs. This river habitat is part of the 

Glanvilla Swamp, an important wetland 

for water birds. 

An Indian River boat trip is a gentle 

rowboat ride along a one mile stretch of

the river. Your boat captain is also your 

guide, and he will tell you about the river, 

as well as find and point out the common 

wildlife. At journey’s end there is a bar 

and tropical garden where you can stop 

for refreshments. There’s also the ‘secret’ 

abode of Tia Dalma, also known as 

Calypso, from the Pirates of the Caribbean 

film series which was shot here. 

It’s a sedate, relaxing, and interesting 

outing for up to eight passengers per 

rowboat. Charter one at the Indian River 

visitor centre near the west coast road 

bridge just south of Portsmouth.

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EDDISON TOURS 

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WHAT TO DO 

INDIGO ART GALLERY 

(B2) 

Originally from Deauville on the 

Normandy coast of France, Marie 

Frederick began her art on the streets of 

Paris, then Greece, Morocco, and St. 

Martin, before finally settling in 

Dominica. She has devoted her life to her 

art and she draws inspiration from many 

sources, more often the village life and 

natural environment all around her. 

Her art gallery is also her home. It's a 

unique, rustic house that is both simple 

and intricate in its design and 

adornments. It's exactly how you might 

expect the home and studio of such an 

nature-loving artist to be. Even Johnny 

Depp and Orlando Bloom sought 

relaxation, inspiration, and refuge here 

during breaks in filming Pirates of the 

Caribbean. 

Marie has experienced her fair share of 

adventure, hardship, and even tragedy, 

but she perseveres and still produces art. 

Her gallery home is open to visitors to 

drop in, look around, enjoy a juice, coffee, 

bush tea, and some cheesecake, and 

maybe even buy a unique piece or two to 

take home. 

Indigo has no fixed opening times. It's 

open daily, and Marie is usually home. 

You just have to take a chance or return 

another day. Look for and follow the 

signs on the roadside in the village of 

Bornes (on the road between 

Portsmouth and Calibishie). 

Tel/WhatsApp: 767 276 0402

WHAT TO DO 

JACKO STEPS (B3)

Dominica was the last island in the eastern 

Caribbean to be colonised by Europeans. 

It’s highly likely, though there’s no evidence 

to substantiate it, that enslaved Africans 

who escaped from nearby islands ended up 

here and perhaps several generations of 

them lived in relative ‘freedom’, sharing the 

island with the Kalinago. We can only 

speculate on how this might have been. 

By the time the French and then the British 

brought their own workforce of enslaved 

labour, the population of ‘runaways’, 

commonly known as Maroons, was high in 

Dominica. There were many Maroon camps 

throughout the hard-to-reach places of 

Dominica’s interior, and many of the 

Maroon Chiefs gained considerable 

notoriety. 

The British established a militia to track 

down and either capture or kill Maroons 

and the so-called ‘Maroon Wars’ were 

bloody and brutal affairs that included 

torture and beheadings. 

Chief Jacko had a camp on a high and 

narrow plateau near the present-day 

village of Bells. He is thought to have had 

the greatest longevity as a Maroon Chief, 

spending upwards of 40 years in Dominica’s 

forests. On July 12, 1814, his camp was 

discovered and, following a bloody battle 

with the Loyal Dominica Rangers, Chief 

Jacko was shot and killed. 

One significant part of his camp was a steep 

staircase that was carved into the cliffs 

providing access to and from the Layou 

River. 

A loop trail begins in the village of Bells and 

crosses the Layou before ascending a steep 

ridge to the plateau, now known as Jacko 

Flats, location of his camp. Meandering 

through the forest, the track eventually 

reaches the top of the staircase, known as 

Jacko Steps. A steep descent leads to a 

small tributary of the Layou River and then 

to the Layou itself. The remainder of this 

journey is a river hike, along rocky 

embankments, through pools, and across 

rapids. A waterfall hidden in a conical 

cavern provides additional interest. The 

river is scenic with lots of bird life. 

After around three hours, you find 

yourself back at your first river crossing 

in Bells. 

A lovely couple called Mal and Eunice 

take care of the trail and try to keep the 

steps clear (if they are leaf-strewn, take 

care as they are slippery). It’s nice to 

make a voluntary contribution to 

acknowledge their effort. They may also 

be available to guide you. 

A guide is certainly a good idea for this 

hike as the route isn’t obvious, 

especially when you are in the river. 

This trail should also be avoided during 

the wet season or after heavy periods of 

rainfall when the river floods. Take a 

waterproof bag for your valuables as 

you may have to swim some sections, 

depending on how the river is running. 

In the dry season, most parts of the 

river trail are shallow enough to wade 

across. You’ll also need footwear that 

you don’t mind getting wet.

Evidence of the occupation of the Greater 

and Lesser Antilles by indigenous peoples 

of the Americas goes back around 5,000 

years. 

Material culture (the durable stuff that is 

made and discarded by humans) in the form 

of stoneware, ceramics, and structures, 

gives anthropologists and archaeologists 

clues as to who these people were and how 

they might have lived and travelled around 

the islands, but much of the story remains 

speculative because there are so many gaps 

in the evidence so far discovered. To go 

beyond the material culture of these 

people, we must consider the written 

accounts of others, namely Europeans, who 

observed, interpreted, and formed their 

own opinions. Experts in this subject differ 

in their interpretation of material culture, 

and in their view of how migration and 

occupation of the islands was enacted from 

Central and South America, but most do 

agree that waves of different people 

arrived at, settled on, and travelled 

between islands over many generations. It’s 

likely that the rather simplistic picture of 

Taino in the north and Kalinago (also 

referred to as Caribs) in the south was in 

fact a far more confused, transient, and 

perhaps turbulent affair by the time 

Europeans arrived in 1492. The indigenous 

people they met in Dominica and 

surrounding islands of the Lesser Antilles 

did refer to themselves as Kalinago, 

however, and most of their contemporary 

descendants in Dominica (known by them 

as Wai’tukubuli) occupy a semi-autonomous 

territory on the island’s east coast. 

Understanding the original language of the 

Kalinago is also tricky. Most scholars 

believe that the Taino, who occupied the 

Greater Antilles, and the original mainland 

Caribs (Igneri) who went on to occupy the 

Lesser Antilles, were Arawakan-speaking 

peoples, but that the Igneri spoke a slightly 

different version of Arawakan that was 

unique to them. The Kalinago people who 

arrived after the Igneri are thought to have 

adopted the language spoken by the Igneri, 

explaining why their vocabulary has 

Arawakan origin rather than Cariban or

WHAT TO DO 

KALINAGO TERRITORY 

(C3) 

L’Escalier Tete Chien at Sineku

Basket ware and calabash 

Carved tree fern mask 

Baskets and ornately carved calabash shells

Lokono which was spoken in the region of 

South America where the Kalinago were 

from. Some scholars also contend that the 

Igneri were not actually displaced by the 

Kalinago - instead, the two groups of 

people simply merged. It’s a confusing 

picture of people migrating long distances 

over thousands of years and absorbing or 

displacing cultures that’s almost impossible 

to nail down with any accuracy. So, if 

anyone states a ‘fact’ to you about all this, 

do receive it with all this in mind. 

The Carib Reserve, as it was first known, 

was established by Crown Colony 

Administrator Hesketh Bell in 1903. 

According to some accounts, Bell was 

rather infatuated by the indigenous peoples 

of the Lesser Antilles and had tried to 

establish a similar reserve in Grenada prior 

to his transfer to Dominica. Whatever his 

motivation, the Carib Reserve did have the 

effect of helping to preserve some of the 

cultural heritage of the Kalinago people, 

though it also eventually saddled them with 

rules such as the communal ownership of 

land that have, in the view of some, 

hindered their growth and development 

(the Kalinago have difficulty securing loans 

or mortgages because they cannot own 

land individually as an exchangeable asset). 

Today, the Carib Reserve is known as the 

Kalinago Territory, reflecting a conscious 

movement of self-determination, and its 

administrative affairs are presided over by 

an elected Kalinago Chief and Kalinago 

Council. The Kalinago Territory is also an 

electoral district and, in parliament, the 

Kalinago people are represented at 

ministry level. 

There are eight villages in the (approx.) 

1,500 hectares Kalinago Territory: Touna, 

Bataca, Crayfish River, Salybia (the 

administrative centre), Gaulette River, St. 

Cyr, Mahaut River, and Sineku. The 

population of the Kalinago Territory is 

thought to be somewhere between 2,500 

to 3,000. 

Like most of Dominica, the farmers of the 

Kalinago Territory reaped the benefits of 

the banana boom in the latter half of the 

20th century but, when preferential 

subsidies for small island growers were 

removed, the sector collapsed, and many 

Carved tree fern mask

Making sun hats, mats, and bags from screw pine

families suffered a disastrous loss in 

income. This was a difficult time for many 

men of the Caribbean who were no longer 

the breadwinners of the household. Social 

problems ensued, and the number of rum 

shops increased. In the Kalinago Territory, 

many women looked to their mothers and 

grandmothers who still retained handeddown 

artisanal skills, especially in basket 

making. As a result, ever since the banana 

sector collapse, the sale of traditional 

indigenous basket ware (predominantly to 

tourists) has been a steady source of 

income for many Kalinago households. 

Baskets are woven from the long, straight 

stems of the Ischosiphon arouma, a reed that 

was brought from the banks of the Amazon 

River to the islands by the indigenous 

peoples who migrated here. In the native 

tongue of the Kalinago, the reed is called 

oualloman, and the French referred to it as 

l’arouman. Today, it is known as larouma 

reed. 

Large bundles are harvested from the 

forest and sold to basket makers in the 

eight villages. The reeds are split and then 

either dried out in the sun, dyed using a 

combination of leaves (bois tan leaves, for 

example, emit a natural red dye), or soaked 

in muddy holes before drying to make them 

black. The reeds are then used to weave a 

wide variety of basket ware that is sold 

roadside, at the Kalinago Barana Auté, or 

on gift and souvenir stalls at tourism sites. 

Another traditional craft comes in the form 

of the ornate carving of the dried shell of 

the fruit of the calabash tree (Crescentia 

cujete). The fruits can grow up to 50cm in 

diameter and the dried shells have been 

used functionally as bowls and containers 

for generations. 

The fibrous trunks of giant tree ferns 

(locally known as fwige) are also used in 

craft, especially in the carving of ornate 

face masks, and the leaves of the screw 

pine (Pandanus) are used to create mats, 

baskets, and sun hats. 

In the village of Crayfish River, Kalinago 

Barana Auté (meaning ‘Kalinago village by 

the sea’) is a model village that has been 

established to both showcase and retain 

elements of Kalinago culture and heritage.

The carbet at Kalinago Barana Auté 

From the reception building, a guided 

walk around the Kalinago Barana Auté 

(KBA) is a great way to learn about 

Kalinago culture and heritage from the 

Kalinago themselves. A scenic and 

informative trail runs in a loop around 

this coastal cultural park and takes in a 

number of traditional building types such 

as ajoupa (a lean-to structure) and a 

large carbet, which would have been the 

focal point of a village, where meetings 

were held, and where the men slept in 

hammocks (hammock is an Arawakan 

word that means fishing net), whose 

original purpose was to allow people to 

sleep off the ground. Interestingly, and 

adding to the confusion, the word carbet 

is a word the French used for ‘karbey’, 

the word for ‘meeting house’ in the Tupi 

language of the Guarani Tribe. The 

Guarani were (and still are, though they 

live a precarious existence) from Brazil. 

Guarani people were brought to the 

Lesser Antilles by the French to work 

their estates. Instead of using their own 

word for the same structure, which is 

taboui, Dominica’s Kalinago adopted the 

word carbet (sometimes also written 

karbey, or karbet) and now consider it a 

Kalinago word. 

The KBA also showcases traditional 

canoe building, which is now in decline 

due to the availability of modern 

fibreglass fishing boats, and 

accommodates several basket makers 

who have workshops where they make 

and sell their wares. 

The indigenous peoples of the Americas, 

including Dominica’s Kalinago, 

traditionally believed in nature spirits 

and the power of the supernatural. Their 

relationship was, and in many cases still 

is, very close to nature and they have a 

wealth of handed-down knowledge 

regarding the medicinal properties of 

plants. 

One famous legend relates to a giant 

snake that emerged from the ocean, 

crushing up the coastal rocks and 

creating a giant staircase. The snake 

disappeared into the forests of Madjini

The view of Touna and the Pagua River Valley from Horseback Ridge 

mountain where it is said to live in a 

secret cave. The staircase remains, 

however. Known as L’Escalier Tete 

Chien, it’s in the village of Sineku where 

a short and scenic coastal track leads 

down to viewpoints and the formation 

itself. 

Other interesting sites and ways of 

exploring the Kalinago Territory include 

the wonderful Horseback Ridge. Once a 

ridge trail and now a narrow road that 

connects the villages of Touna, Bataca, 

and Salybia, this is a scenic and 

interesting way to explore part of the 

Territory. Start at the police station in 

Salybia and walk up the ridge road right 

to the top, enjoying awesome views of 

the Atlantic coastline, Touna village and 

the Pagua River Valley, as well as large 

expanses of the Kalinago Territory itself. 

At the summit junction, continue along 

the ridge (down leads to Touna) until you 

come to Bataca. Once there, follow the 

coastal road back to Salybia. The loop 

walk takes about three hours and there’s 

plenty to see along the way. 

A more obscure walk and one that needs 

the help of a Kalinago guide, is the 

Madjini Ridge Trail that connects the 

summit of Horseback Ridge to the village 

of Sineku. This is a difficult route that 

requires the assistance of a machete, but 

it’s scenic and well off the beaten path. 

A Kalinago guide can also help you find 

the mythical Centipede Trail and Pagua 

Rock. A little easier to find, though also 

more interesting with a local guide, is the 

Charles Warner ‘Secret’ Pool and, if it’s 

clear, segment 6 of the Waitukubuli 

National Trail which passes through the 

Kalinago Territory connecting Castle 

Bruce with Hatton Garden. 

One final thought – please remember 

that, though they benefit from your visit, 

the Kalinago are absolutely not a tourism 

product and simply there for you to snap 

a photo. They are real people with real 

challenges, many of whom live a day-today, 

hand-to-mouth existence. The 

Kalinago Territory is unique in this region 

and should be on your ‘to-do’ list.

WHAT TO DO 

LA CHAUDIERE (B2) 

La Chaudiere is the name of a 

deep river pool and cascade 

located a short distance inland 

from the northern village of 

Bense. It’s accessed via a (usually) 

signposted feeder road and short 

track from Hampstead Ridge 

(take time to enjoy the views). 

The pool gets its name from its 

effervescence, a continuous cloud 

of bubbles from the action of river 

and cascade, combined with 

boulders around, give the 

impression of a cauldron or 

boiling pot. 

People enjoy jumping from the 

boulders into the pool. Be sure to 

look before you leap.

WHAT TO DO 

MIDDLEHAM 

FALLS (B4) 

Usually described as Dominica’s tallest 

waterfall, Middleham Falls is in the 

Morne Trois Pitons National Park and is 

accessed via several hiking trails. The 

usual route is from the Laudat area, 

though you can also walk there from 

Cochrane, Sylvania, and Pont Casse. 

From Laudat, it takes about an hour to 

get to the waterfall. The forest trail 

immediately crosses a shallow river and 

then climbs quite steeply up a hillside to 

a plateau. Once up at the top, it’s easy 

going through the forest to a clearly 

marked trail junction. To the right is 

Sylvania and Pont Casse, straight on is 

Cochrane, and left is the waterfall. 

The trail descends from the plateau into 

a river valley with the waterfall soon 

coming into sight. There’s a steepish 

wooden staircase that can be quite 

slippery (don’t put too much weight on 

the railings) followed by an easy-to-miss 

turning over a boulder to the right. 

Negotiate some slippery rocks and a 

stream and soon you arrive at the 

wooden viewing platform. 

The adventurous may wish to carefully 

negotiate the rocks from the platform 

to get down to the pool. It very deep and 

very cold. 

From Cochrane, it takes about the same 

time to get to the waterfall. From 

Sylvania, it takes about three hours, and 

from Pont Casse about four. Listen for 

jaco parrots and mountain whistlers 

along all these trails.

WHAT TO DO 

MORNE ANGLAIS 

(B4) 

Probably the best and the easiest of 

Dominica’s mountain trails, Morne 

Anglais is still waiting for its first 

signpost. Without one, the trailhead is 

quite tricky to find, but once you get 

going, the route is straightforward. 

It starts above the village of Giraudel. If 

the signage is still missing and you don’t 

have a guide who knows the way, you 

must find the water tank on the village 

back road (just ask someone). A steep 

and narrow concrete road runs from the 

tank to an abandoned water catchment, 

now home to weeds and a 

communications tower. The trail starts 

along the left-hand-side of the chain link 

fence. This part is often overgrown. 

If you find it, make your way up and 

beyond the old catchment to an open 

area of pastureland where there are 

great views down to the coast. Stick to 

the right and head for the top right-hand

corner where the trail continues. From 

here, it’s a clear route to the top. 

The trail follows a narrow ridge to the 

peak (it goes down as well as up) and 

there are great views down to the 

villages of Pichelin, Bellevue Chopin, and 

Grand Bay. Near the top, the trail can be 

a little tricky to negotiate as the 2017 

hurricane damaged and brought down 

thickets of kaklin (Clusia) trees, it’s often 

muddy, and there’s annoying razor grass 

on the trail margins ready to snag you at 

any and every opportunity (for this 

reason, long pants and sleeves are a good 

option). You should also know that 

there’s a good chance of attracting a few 

chiggers (locally, bete wouj) on this hike. 

Most hikers reach the top in around two 

hours from where there are awesome 

views of the east, south, and west coasts. 

Please don’t sit on the solar panels which 

belong to local ham radio enthusiasts.

PARADISE VALLEY(B2) 

BORNES

Located in the village of Bornes, Paradise 

Valley is the creation of professional 

landscape gardener, Dian Douglas. 

A continuously evolving project, Paradise 

Valley has quickly established itself as an 

attractive and educational botanical 

garden in the north of Dominica. 

Dian and his dedicated team of 

gardeners are creating a landscape that 

is filled with a large variety of tropical 

species, all of which are planted with 

know-how, purposeful design, and a lot 

of hard work. 

Accessed by an ever-expanding network 

of pathways, Paradise Valley showcases 

CONTACT +1 767 277 4671 

intricate beds, creative structures such 

as a pergola and a tree house, statuettes, 

salvaged and repurposed curios and 

historic artefacts, beautiful stonework, 

and attractive water features. An 

expansive plant nursery is in evidence 

throughout the gardens, and a field of 

colourful anthuriums fills a huge shade 

house. 

Visitors to Paradise Valley are welcome 

daily and school outings are actively 

encouraged. Wander the easy garden 

paths, bring a picnic, learn about the 

plants and flowers, enjoy the peaceful 

and fascinating surroundings, and 

perhaps even buy some plants for your 

own tropical paradise.

WHAT TO DO 

RED ROCKS 

(B2) 

The unusual ‘red rock’ coastal 

formations extend from Cabana 

(near Wesley) to Pointe Baptiste 

(near Calibishie). Most people visit 

them via a short track through the 

grounds of the Pointe Baptiste 

Estate. 

Take the signposted turn-off to 

Pointe Baptiste along the main road 

near Calibishie and follow it to the 

end, ignoring the right turn to the 

beach bar and chocolate factory. A 

small access/maintenance fee is 

sometimes collected at the local bar 

and eatery where the track begins. 

Walk along the dirt path, ignoring 

any trail spurs, until you emerge at

the Red Rocks coastline. 

Best visited when the sun is low in 

the sky, the colours of this unusual 

rock formation are subtle hues of 

ochre that reflect the gradual 

oxidation of iron over time. The rocks 

were originally basalt, but climate 

and ocean weathering have left 

behind this deep red soil that has 

been hardened and smoothed by the 

abrasiveness of wind and ocean 

spray. 

Explore this beautiful coastal 

formation, enjoy the coastal views of 

Calibishie and Vielle Casse, and look 

for the hidden steps and cave.

WHAT TO DO 

SARI SARI FALLS 

(C4)

Named after a Kalinago word for a 

species of fish, Sari Sari is one of 

Dominica’s most spectacular 

waterfalls. 

The trailhead can be found inland 

from the large coastal village of La 

Plaine in the southeast. Head up 

the main road towards the church 

and go as far as you can. Take a left 

at the end of the road, and then a 

right. The trail starts at the end of 

this road. It may not be signposted. 

Ask someone in the village if you 

are not sure, or take a guide. 

A narrow track skirts woodland 

and smallholdings before dropping 

steeply down into the Sari Sari 

River Valley. This area has been 

subjected to several landslides and 

can be a little tricky. At the bottom, 

carefully cross the river and pick 

up the trail again on the far side. 

Follow the clear track through 

woodland and along the riverbank 

until it ends. Continue upstream in 

the river itself. 

Negotiate boulders, cascades, and 

river pools to round a corner and 

come within sight of the waterfall. 

More river hiking and rock 

climbing is needed to get to the 

wide pool. It usually takes about an 

hour to reach this magnificent 

‘horsetail’ waterfall. 

Although relatively short and not 

too challenging, this trail shouldn’t 

be attempted either after or 

during heavy rainfall. The Sari Sari 

River is especially prone to flash 

flooding and people have been 

caught out here in the past. It may 

not be raining on the coast, but a 

deluge in the interior doesn’t take 

long to reach this stretch of river. 

Heed local advice if unsure. 

If you set off early enough, you can 

hike Sari Sari and Victoria Falls in 

the same day as they are quite 

close to each other.

WHAT TO DO 

SCUBA DIVING 

Photography by Simon Walsh / Images Dominica

Scuba diving is possible exclusively via 

dive centres along the west coast with the 

Soufriere Scotts Head Marine Reserve 

and the Cabrits Marine Reserve being the 

most popular dive site locations. 

The relatively sheltered and deep waters 

of the west coast have little current and, 

because of depth and a lack of sandy 

beaches, turbidity is usually low and 

visibility excellent. More challenging but 

excellent dive sites are in the Atlantic 

Ocean channels in the north and south of 

the island. 

Dominica’s shallow reefs tend to drop off 

quickly with most scuba diving 

undertaken along walls, over and around 

drop-offs and pinnacles. Formations are 

healthy and teeming with marine life. 

Hard and soft corals, tube and barrel 

sponges, sea fans, whips, and crinoids 

adorn the reefs and provide a habitat for 

photogenic critters such as banded 

shrimp, Christmas tree worms, frogfish, 

and seahorses. Reef fish are in abundance. 

Common species include tangs, drums, 

parrotfish, soldierfish, and trumpetfish. 

Unusual species commonly sighted 

include batfish, flying gurnards, sharptail 

eels, and scorpionfish. Moray eels, octopi, 

spiny lobsters, and crabs make homes of 

hollows while hawksbill turtles, 

barracudas, shoals of creole wrasse, 

cuttlefish, and eagle rays are regular reef 

visitors. 

Most scuba diving is by boat with twotank 

dives led by a divemaster. 

Because of the relatively easy diving 

conditions, Dominica is an excellent place 

to take a scuba diving certification course 

or an accompanied try-dive. Most 

certification courses take four days 

though a referral means that half the 

work can be done at your local dive 

centre with completion in Dominica, 

shortening study time on vacation to just 

two days. All Dominica’s dive centres 

have at least one qualified instructor with 

PADI Open Water Diver being the most 

common certification level offered.

WHAT TO DO 

SNORKELLING 

Without doubt, Dominica’s most 

popular snorkelling site is Champagne 

Reef on the southwest coast. At the 

northern edge of the Soufriere Scotts 

Head Marine Reserve, this shallow inshore 

coral reef formation includes 

active volcanic vents that heat up the 

water and create a shroud of 

Champagne-like bubbles. Champagne 

Reef can be found along the west coast 

road a short distance to the south of 

Pointe Michel. Independent travellers 

should note that this site is also popular 

as a cruise ship excursion. 

Other great snorkelling sites along the 

sheltered west coast are at Cachacrou, 

Soufriere, Cabrits, and Toucari Bay. The 

inshore reef at Calibishie is good for 

snorkelling, as is the islet at Hodges 

Bay. 

For travellers who would like the 

company of a snorkelling guide, most 

dive centres offer snorkelling tours.

WHAT TO DO 

SPORT FISHING 

There are two ways to enjoy fishing 

Dominica’s waters. One fun option is 

to take a trip with a local fisherman 

(your hotel can probably recommend 

or organise this for you). This is an 

inexpensive way to have some fun on 

Dominica’s relatively sheltered 

inshore waters and, if luck and 

conditions are on your side, you may 

catch a few jacks, kingfish, or 

snapper for your supper. 

The second option is to charter a 

sport fishing boat and captain. 

Offshore trolling with outriggers, a 

fighting chair, and an experienced 

operator ought to hook you up with 

larger fish such as tuna, wahoo, and 

mahi mahi (dorado). Half and full day 

charters are usually available. 

Be sure to cover up well, as the sun is 

unforgiving out on the water.

WHAT TO DO 

SYNDICATE 

(B2)

Syndicate is a large region of elevated 

forest and farmland on the margins of 

the Morne Diablotin National Park. 

The Syndicate Nature Trail is an easy 

rainforest walk through the primary 

habitat of the endangered sisserou 

parrot – Dominica’s national bird. For 

this reason, the area is often referred to 

as a parrot sanctuary. In fact, the 

Syndicate Nature Trail has become 

Dominica’s main birdwatching spot due 

to the number of endemic and migratory 

species that can be observed here (see 

Birds and Birdwatching). 

Start and finish the loop trail at the 

visitor centre at the end of the paved 

road through Syndicate (this is also 

where WNT segments 10 and 11 meet). 

It takes around an hour or so to complete 

the walk; longer if you’re birdwatching, 

of course. There’s a nice viewpoint 

looking out across a wide river valley 

towards Morne Turner about half-way 

around the loop. You must pay a site fee 

to walk this trail. 

Also along the Syndicate Road – before 

you reach the visitor centre - is a turn-off 

on the right for the Syndicate Falls 

(sometimes called Milton Falls). Because 

the track passes through private land, a 

small access and maintenance fee is 

payable. 

Follow the wide grassy trail down to the 

river (enjoy the mountain views) and 

then walk upstream for a short distance 

until the waterfall comes into view. The 

river is shallow – usually just ankle deep. 

This there-and-back waterfall trail is 

very easy and takes about 30 minutes 

each way. You’ll often see jaco parrots 

around here as they enjoy feeding on the 

grapefruit and orange trees down in the 

valley near the beginning of the walk.

WHAT TO DO 

TRAFALGAR FALLS 

(B4) 

Along with Emerald Pool, Trafalgar Falls 

is one of the most visited and accessible 

of Dominica’s natural attractions. 

The twin waterfalls are located at the 

head of the Roseau Valley and are where 

two rivers converge – the Roseau River 

(which flows through TiTou Gorge and is 

where canyoning tours take place) and 

the Trois Pitons River (for Boiling Lake 

hikers, also known as the Breakfast 

River). 

A short and easy walk from the visitor 

centre leads to a viewing platform. From 

there, a track runs down to the river 

boulders where it’s possible to scramble, 

with care, up to each of the waterfall 

pools. The ‘father falls’ on the left is 

easier and more spectacular than the 

‘mother falls’ on the right. En route to the 

father, you’ll meet a hot spring where 

warm water cascades alongside cold. It’s 

a good idea to engage a guide to help you 

with this. 

If cruise ships are in port, avoid the 

waterfalls in the morning when it will be 

very crowded. Late afternoon is nicer in 

any event as the sun, when in the 

western sky, illuminates the Roseau 

Valley and the waterfalls.

WHAT TO DO 

VICTORIA FALLS 

(C4) 

One of Dominica’s most spectacular 

waterfalls, Victoria Falls is in the far 

southeast of the island near the village 

of Delices. The trail begins in Zion 

Valley (say hi to Moses) and follows 

the White River upstream for about 45 

minutes. 

The trail follows the riverbank and 

crosses the river several times – it can 

be deep, and there are lovely pools and 

cascades – until it rounds a bend, and 

the waterfall comes into view. The 

route changes depending on weather, 

erosion, and river floods, so taking a 

guide is a good idea. Reach the pool via 

the left-hand riverbank. 

Like the Sari Sari, the White River is 

susceptible to flash flooding, so don’t 

do this hike following or during periods 

of heavy rain. 

For Boiling Lake hikers, the White 

River begins where the Boiling Lake 

overflows on its eastern lip.

WHAT TO DO 

WHALE WATCHING

Sperm whales are resident year-round in 

Dominica’s deep coastal waters, so the 

island is a draw for marine biologists, 

researchers, and photographers. 

Half-day whale watching trips are 

available via some of Dominica’s west 

coast dive centres and boat captains – 

your hotel will be able to help you out 

with recommendations. Most operators 

claim a success rate of above 80 percent 

when it comes to finding whales, though 

there are no guarantees, of course. 

Other whale species observed on whale 

watching trips include pilot whales and 

humpback whales. Large pods of 

dolphins are also often sighted on these 

excursions. Species include spinner, 

bottlenose, and Atlantic spotted. 

Sperm whale (A.Madisetti / Images Dominica. Taken under government permit)

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