Issue No. 25

In these difficult days of no travel and self-isolation around the world, we can still
dream.
I hope that this issue makes you smile and whisks you away through its pages to
France and that you find it’s a treat to read and inspires your dreams for the days
when we can travel again.
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Wishing you and yours truly well,

contents
Features
8 Gascony – God’s Country
Not well known outside of France, the Gers,
Gascony is an intoxicating land, real France,
authentic and delicious.…
22 Road trip northern France
The Hauts-de-France region reveals a wealth
of culture, beautiful beaches, historic cities
and glorious countryside...
34 20 Brilliant day trips from Paris
Chateaux, cities, village visits, cultural towns
and beautiful churches, all so close to Paris
you can get there and back in a day…
56 The natural wonder of Amiens
The capital of Picardy is the “Venice of the
north” and a hugely surprising city...
66 Colourful, cultural & captivating
Toulouse
Discover the museums and secret streets of
the pink city…
74 Fabulous French Float-el
Floating down the Rhone River on a French
cruise hotel makes for a brilliant break…

Features continued
80 Lille a Feast for the Senses
The perfect pairings of food and art in the
city of culture
88 La Chartreuse de Neuville
A monumental hidden gem of a
charterhouse in northern France
94 Oppède the lush, exotic village
of Provence
This rather hidden beauty of Provence is
delightfully quirky…
Regular
100 Your Photos
The most popular photos on our Facebook
page.
120 My Good Life in France
In which the rural countryside becomes a
land of party animals...
Expert Advice
102 Discover the Northern Riviera
Not the French riviera with its pricey
properties but a northern version that’s well
worth a look…
106 Top tips for your move to
France
Top tips for those looking forward to move
to France.

110 Expert’s guide to French
Mortgages
Everything you need to know about
mortgages in France.
Recipes
114 Pissaladière
Classic French onion tart that's so moreish
it's wicked!
116 Cheese soufflé
How to make a perfect cheese soufflé that
will impress everyone!
118 Gascon apple pie
Easy to make but utterly unforgettably
delicious!

Gascony
“God’s Country…”
Janine Marsh takes to the road in Gascony and discovers
some of its charms – from medieval villages, quirky
museums and the most intoxicating gastronomy…

The Gers
The Gers, or Gascony some call it, is one of
the most rural regions in all of France. You’ll
find it in southwest France, just west of
Toulouse but a world apart from the buzzing,
colourful metropolis.
A 25 minute drive from Toulouse airport will
bring you to L’Isle Jordain, a great little town
on the edge of a region that on a map looks
decidedly green. There are no big cities here.
No high speed rail services either, though
you can take the train from Toulouse to
Auch, the capital of Gers.
There are no motorways in Gers. Not one.
And there’s no mass tourism.
The Gers is the real France you thought
didn’t exist anymore. Bucolic, beautiful and
bubbling with bonhomie.

Road trip Gers
In the Gers, it’s easy to feel like you’ve
stepped back in time to a gentler place. You
won’t come across coach loads of tourists
and you won’t find traffic jams. What you
will find are roads which take you through
sweeping panoramas, undulating fields of
sunflowers, corn and rapeseed. Vineyards
lazing under the sun alongside lush grazing
pastures dotted with wildflowers.
Hedgerows of hawthorne, broom and
honeysuckle hug fields and forests. Pretty
villages are seemingly on every corner, and
bars are full of friendly folk, happy to share
their little corner of paradise.
Though the Gers is not France’s most
sparsely populated district (Lozère if you
want to know), it is the most agricultural,
with more of its land under cultivation than
that of any other French district. Humans in
the Gers are hugely outnumbered by
livestock, especially ducks, apparently 28:1.
Ask any local will tell you that what’s
important to people in the Gers is family,
friendship and good food. And they really
mean it.
It’s a brilliant place for a road trip whether
you’re driving or cycling around the Gers.
And you’ll need your own wheels, because
there’s not a lot of public transport.
L’Isle Jordain - bells, books and a
bubbly market town
I started my Gascon jaunt in L’Isle Jordain,
journeying by train via Paris to Toulouse (4
hours) where I met my friend Lucy who’d just
flown in from the UK (2 hours). It was Friday
night and, as we booked into the charming
L’Echappée Belle Hotel, the concierge
warned us to move our car to the free car
park on the corner rather than leave it in
front of the hotel. Next day was market day
and there would be a stall selling vegetables
where we had parked.

Back in the hotel restaurant, feeling
reassured our hire car wouldn’t be used to
display cabbages, the server tempted us to a
Pousse Rapière cocktail – my first
introduction to Armagnac, the famous
liqueur of Gascony. One part Armagnac à
l’Orange to 6 parts sparkling wine: it’s
heaven in a glass and so moreish I feel bad
telling you about it. The food at the
restaurant is superb (chef Thierry Lair is
superb), if I lived in this town, you wouldn’t
be able to keep me out of here!
the most French, authentic and delicious
market you can ever imagine. Stall after stall
of local produce, odd shaped vegetables,
fresh baked bread, artisanal beers, cheeses
and… Pastis Gascon, an apple tart which
makes your taste buds sing. Don’t take my
word for it, there’s a recipe on page 118.
Seriously, seriously sensational.
Early next morning after a good night's sleep
we wandered a few minutes out of the town
to discover lakes right on the doorstep that
were teeming with birds. As the sun broke
through the early morning mist and a
symphony of bird song filled the air, it felt
like the land that time forgot.
The old pilgrim route from Bordeaux to
Jerusalem and the river Save wander
through this 13th century bastide. There’s a
classic church which has a 15th century
clocktower and the remains of two arcaded
markets. The market at L’Isle Jordain is like

Maison Claude Augé
Claude Augé (1854 - 1924), was the
director of Larousse encyclopaedias and
educational books and he had a holiday
home in the town. Preserved just as it was
in his day, this beautiful building has
wonderful stained glass windows and is
filled with Larousse memorabilia - books,
encyclopaedias, post cards and photos.
Musée Campanaire
From the first floor terraced windows of
Maison Claude Augé, you look onto the
Musée Campanaire, a unique museum
dedicated to all things bell. There are huge
bells from churches, Indonesian temple
bells, Japanese, Roman, and Russian bells.
But you don’t just look here, you play. It
doesn’t matter if you’re not a trained bell
ringer, and frankly I’m not sure they get that
many in judging from what I heard when I
was there. The staff are happy for you to
practise with special bell hammers and even
a bell pulley system like an organ of the
type you find in churches and cathedrals.
It’s certainly different but utterly
fascinating.
Our next stop was Auch…

Auch
Auch, the capital city of the Gers, was the
birthplace of the musketeer D’Artagnan,
made famous by Alexander Dumas in The
Three Musketeers, immortalised on film and
still a symbol of loyalty, military prowess and
honour. You’ll find his statue on the Grand
Escaliers, the monumental limestone staircase
which links the lower and upper towns.
At the top of the stairs is the Cathedral of
Notre-Dame. On the Route of St James, it
was the last stop before the Pyrénées for
pilgrims on their way to Spain.
Building began in the Gothic style in 1489
and continued until 1678 by which time
more of a Renaissance style took over. The
stained glass windows created in the 1500s
are extraordinary. Designed by Arnaut de
Moles (born around 1465), these are not your
average religious windows but feature
unusual topics such as the Greek Sybilles who
are shown presenting the coming of Christ –
and even more unusually there are naked
bodies galore. The colours are pure and fresh,
vibrant as the day they were made with glass
from Paris, transported by horse and cart,
each pane of glass sealed in wax to prevent
breakage.
Unusually there are two organs in the
cathedral, the original enormous organ was
built in 1694. A smaller organ takes centre
stage. Donated by Napoleon III as thanks for
the Archbishop being his wife’s confessor in
Paris. The locals say it’s hard to say no to the
gift of an emperor even though they prefer
the original.

Top right: 14th century Armagnac Tower, above:
Auch Cathedral, right: statue of D'Artagnan,
Grand Escaliers
Never finished, there are no saints on the
facade of the church, but head into the choir
for a sight you’re unlikely to see in any other
church. The originally reserved for religious
members only room full of carved wooden
images features amongst the many saints,
some rather nubile young women, a man
with a bare bottom and other rather worldly
sights. It was, says our guide, “because the
monks who worked here, wanted to keep it
real, to understand their flock, not idealise
life but accept it for what it was...” It is an
incredible piece of work and worth the
couple of euros entry fee to see it.
It's a pleasant city to wander, plenty of
shops, bars and restaurants and winding little
streets with quirky old houses.

Armagnac
There are three growing areas of
Armagnac: Bas Armagnac,
Armagnac Tenareze and Haut-
Armagnac. Together they form
15,000 hectares of vines, originally
planted by the Romans, from which
wine, white, red and rosé and Floc
de Gascogne (a fortified wine and
popular aperitif) are grown and of
which 42,00 hectares are used for
the exclusive production of
Armagnac.
Armagnac is the oldest French eaude-vie
and is at least 700 years old,
possibly going back as far as the
10th century. It was mentioned in
records dated 1310 when a priest in
Eauze, the capital of Bas Armagnac,
praised Armagnac saying it was
good “to keep your heath and stay
on top form.” Mind you, he also
listed a whole heap of its virtues
including that the fumes of
Armagnac could kill serpents, it
cured colic and tooth ache.
There are different types of
Armagnac. Like Cognac, there’s VS
(Very Superior), VSOP (Very
Superior Old Pale), Hors d’Age
Armagnac which is a minimum of ten
years old but often much older, XO
(Extra Old) a minimum of ten years
old and Blanche Armagnac, which is
a young white spirit and quite new to
the market (since 2005).
Unlike Cognac (twice distilled),
Armagnac (once distilled) production
isn’t big industry - it’s all small
houses. Families and artisans
producing their own unique blend.
We headed to Chateau Millet on the
outskirts of Eauze to find out more
with a tour and what’s known as an
Alambic Dinner.

Alambic Dinner
Each year, some Armagnac makers open
their cellars and invite the public in to
witness the distillation, taste the young
Armagnac, join in the fun and enjoy
fabulous food and wine.
The distillation process starts with the
heating of the grape juice in a continuous
still known as an alembic armagnaçaise.
The stills are mobile devices, roaming
around the countryside, stopping off at
domaines and operated by an expert who
works the magic through the night. Many of
the smaller batches made by these talented
producers never get seen outside the area –
and that’s another good reason to visit!
We joined the Chateau de Millet alembic
dinner on the first Saturday in December.
Driving down tiny country lanes under a
frosty, star filled night was an adventure in
itself. We entered the room, heated by the
alambic still on wheels, it’s flames fanned by
old vine wood. A live band played, everyone
was invited to taste the new Armagnac
straight from the still (takes your breath
away I can tell you) and the food was
amazing and the Chateau de Millet wines
superb. It was an uplifting, fun and utterly
delicious affair and I’d go back to Gascony
just to be a part of this amazing event again.
If you’d like to know more about Armagnac
and join a dinner French Country
Adventures will run a unique tour in
November, details here: Armagnac Tours

Lavardens
Built around a feudal castle
and church, this little village
on a rocky outcrop has
oodles of charm. Go in July
& August for the fabulously
festive night markets.
Fourcès
With medieval arcades,
beautiful walkways, quirky
shops and several
restaurants, it’s a fabulous
place to while away a few
hours admiring its beauty.
Larressingle
AKA the "little
Carcassonne", this is the
smallest fortified village in
France. Step through the
gate to the tiny walled town
and you'll feel like you've
stepped into the past.
Montréal
This fortified bastide town
has a beautiful central
square, arcaded walkways
and beautiful medieval
houses.
La Romieu
Taking its name from the
Gascon "Roumiou", which
means "pilgrim", the village
was founded at the end of
the 11th century
Sarrant
Enter the 14th century gate
to discover a village of
pretty half-timbered houses
wrapped around the 13th
century Saint-Vincent
church

A land of officially beautiful villages
There are no less than 6 Plus Beaux Villages
in this 60-mile wide department. It’s not big,
but it is incredibly beautiful, peppered with
perfectly preserved and pristine medieval
towns including lovely Larressingle. It’s the
smallest fortified village in France. With a
circumference of just 270m it’s nicknamed
the “little Carcassonne”. And Fources, a
stunning medieval town with the only round
square in France.
Read more about Larressingle here and
Fources here.
And there are castles galore. We visited the
Chateau de Lavardens, in Lavardens, another
Plus Beaux Village, which we spied from the
bottom of a hill. It was like a magical mirage,
mellow stone and terracotta-roofed, ageless
beauty teetering high above us. It originally
Larressingle
belonged to the counts of Armagnac and was
built in the 12th century and updated in the
17th century. The stunning rooms have
wonderful tiled floors and stone walls, grand
fireplaces and magnificent views over the
surrounding countryside. There are regular
temporary exhibitions including at Christmas
a massive santons display – little figurines
that the French just love ranging from Saints
to celebrities. We popped to the Cistercian
Abbaye de Flaran nearby with its gorgeous
14th century cloisters, now a cultural centre
with an impressive calligraphy collection.
And if you go here, you must leave time to
visit the restaurant at the Ferme de Flaran
next door, the most delicious food and
friendly staff, they don’t just serve you food
here, they really care. Our server got upset
when I didn’t eat absolutely everything on
the plate but honestly, it was a big lunch and
I needed to leave room for the dessert!

The gastronomy of Gascony
Food is a big part of what makes a visit to
the Gers so special with specialities including
foie gras, duck dishes, that seriously
delicious apple pie that’s specific to the
region which I mentioned earlier, Armagnac
and wines.
Weekly village markets are a wonderful
introduction to the gastronomy of the area.
Try the Thursday morning market at Éauze
or the lovely covered market in Mirande on
Monday mornings, which is equally lively.
But the big one is at Samatan. I’m not sure
you’ll ever find another market where one
minute a nun is telling you how delicious her
honey is and making clicking noises with her
tongue to emphasise it’s special qualities and
the next minute you’re caught up in a
massive crowd waiting for a whistle to blow
which is the signal to run through the doors
of an enormous building to buy from local
producers selling duck and geese at the
carcasses market. It’s not for the fainthearted
but it’s authentic and it’s the way
things have been done here for years. The
market opened in 1373.
The town also has a quirky foie gras
museum, only for those who are true fans as
there are stuffed animals on show.
Samatan tourism: tourism-saves.com
There are bistros, cafés and restaurants in
every town and farmhouse restaurants
dotted throughout the countryside.
When you go to the Gers, prepare to be
surprised, to be irresistibly tempted by the
gastronomy, fed and watered like royals and
to fall head over heels for this secret and
totally enchanting part of France which the
locals call God’s country…

Practical info
How to get there: From Toulouse where
there is an airport and TGV station for fast
trains to Paris (from 5.5 hours), it’s just an
hour-and-a-half drive to Auch, the region’s
main city. Auch has a well-staffed tourism
office (3, place de la République; en.auchtourisme.com)
that sells “TopoGuides” to
the Gers.
Where to stay: Chateau Bellevue in Cazubon,
close to Eauze, will have you feeling rather
regal. Beautifully decorated rooms which
shuttered windows overlooking a stunning
park and countryside. www.
chateaubellevue.org
In Auch, the Hôtel de France
(hoteldefrance-auch.com) offers a range of
reasonably priced rooms. It’s undergoing a
renovation programme and my room was
lovely but some do need updating still. Its
informal restaurant has a small terrace
overlooking Auch’s main square and serves
many of the region’s greatest hits cooked by
the owner’s chef father. The hotel also has a
grande salle, where fancier (and much
pricier) dishes are served. Chef Vincent
Cassasus is renowned for being one of the
best in the region
The stylish L’Echappee Belle Hotel in L’Isle
Jourdain has a sleeker, more updated feel,
and a superb restaurant serving a lighter
version of Gascon and traditional French
dishes.
Take a detour with French Country
Adventures: Tours from half day, full day or
several days offering a huge range of topics
that will really allow you to experience the
best of Gers. From Armagnac tours to
watercolour workshops, pastry classes,
antiquing and more:
Tourist Office website:
www.tourisme-gers.com/

Born to be wild
When I was offered the chance to discover
the Hauts-de-France region on two sturdy
wheels, I couldn’t resist the thrill. A Harley
Davison ad once read “God didn’t create
metal so that man could make paper clips!”
The Harley Davidson 2019 Ultra Limited is a
big bike. Very big. And I am small. So, we
agreed, my husband Mark and me – he
would do the driving (my feet didn’t reach
the pedals), while I would sit back in the
comfy armchair style seat and enjoy the
ride…
We started our journey at Dover on a P&O
ferry. As soon as we parked the bike on the
deck, other Harley-Davidson riders engaged
in parking, came over to look, comment and
treat us like mates. Biking is like that. They
were on their way to a party in Holland,
meeting up with other Harley fans from
around Europe.
“Did we want to join them?” they asked.
Tempting though it was, we chose to keep to
our itinerary, riding around the region,
discovering truly beautiful sites, glorious
countryside, quaffing Champagne in a little
known part of Picardy which produces a
whopping 10% of all the fizz produced in
France, sampling a legendary dish in a castle
and enjoying some of the finest food
possible. Can you blame us?
Bikers say, “Life is not about waiting for the
storms to pass: it’s about learning how to
ride in the rain!” and I honestly thought, this
is the far north of France - it rains a lot here,
we’ve got some learning to do. In fact, in
eight days of travel in mid-September – it
didn’t rain a single drop and we only saw
clouds once…

Have wheels – will travel...
Pas de Calais: The Opal Coast and the
Route 66 of northern France
Alighting from the ferry, we whizzed straight
onto the coastal road which takes you right
around the Opal Coast. It starts at the
border with Belgium and runs to the border
with Normandy. We joined it just outside
Calais…
The sky was blue, the English Channel was
the colour of the Mediterranean Sea, a soft
sort of turquoise, and the air was scented
with apples from orchards lining the country
roads as we drifted off the main coastal
route and into the beautiful countryside to
hunt down a patisserie. Nothing says France
more than a baguette with a chunk of cheese
followed by a jewel like cake and a glass of
chilled wine. We sat on a blanket
overlooking the English Channel, rabbits
hopping around us, birds swooping above. A
moment of pure pleasure.
The Opal Coast Route
The D940 Opal Coast route is the Route 66
of the north of France. It passes through a
stream of small fishing towns, seaside resorts
and some of the most beautiful scenery in
France. There are miles and miles of
unspoiled and endless sandy beaches, huge
dunes, pine forests and dramatic clifftop
walks offering dizzying views across the
Channel to the White Cliffs of Dover –
clearly visible on a cloudless day. Some parts
of the coast reminded me of the Giant’s
Causeway in Ireland, massive boulders seem
to spill out of the sea and up to the road.
Fishermen sat silent and patient along the
water’s edge with rods and nets. Out to sea
we could see traditional wooden fishing
boats bobbing on the calm water.
We found secret, secluded bays where seals
frolicked. There are monuments and
museums, and the remains of the Atlantic
Wall built as protection against allied

Historic cites, castles & fishing
villages
It doesn't take more than 45 minutes from
Calais to Boulogne-sur-Mer. But, it’s far
better to spend the entire day on this section
of the road. Stop to enjoy a home-cooked
lunch in a friendly, welcoming café and buy
fish fresh from the fishermen who sell direct
from their front rooms and garages in
villages like Audresselles. Wander on the
beach, admire the Napoleonic fort at
Ambleteuse and the Belle Epoque villas at
Wimereux.
This is a part of France that’s hardly known
outside of the region despite being captured
on canvas by J M Turner who loved the ”
opal” quality of light, and Charles Dickens
singing the praises of the area and moving
his family there.
When you do get to Boulogne-sur-Mer, it
too deserves a day of discovery. Head to the
old town, so pretty it looks like a film set.
Don’t miss the incredible decorated crypt of
the Basillica Notre-Dame, the rue du Lille,
lined with quirky boutiques and restaurants.
The 13th century Chateau Museum has
includes an Egyptian collection donated by
renowned Egyptologist François Auguste
Ferdinand Mariette, born in the town and the
founder of the Cairo Museum of Egyptology.
Nausicaa, the largest sea aquarium in Europe
and heaps more will definitely fill a day right
up…
From Boulogne, the D940 runs on through
Neufchatel-Hardelot with its neo-
Shakespearian Theatre and Castle with a
cultural centre dedicated to Entente-
Cordiale. And on through charming Etaples,
once a fishing port, neighbour to the swanky
jet set seaside resort of Le Touquet-Paris-
Plage, and several lovely seaside towns

Picardy: Birds, plus beaux villages
and brilliant castles and more…
Close to the border at Saint-Quentin-en-
Tourmont, we pointed the bike towards the
signposts for Parc Marquenterre. I’m not a
twitcher, but I love animals and this nature
reserve on the Bay of the Somme has a
reputation for being really special.
A dusty track ended in a huge car park
where a surprisingly smart and large
restaurant and bar tempted us in. Here in
what feels like the middle of nowhere, they
serve delicious dishes with heirloom
vegetables, the freshest local fish and superb
desserts, fitting fuel for explorers. We joined
our English speaking guide to find out what
the park was all about. 200 hectares of land
covered in marshes, peppered with lakes and
ponds, dunes and reed beds are an absolute
magnet for birds of all types. From a hide, I
spied on storks and herons. Birds tweeted
above and around us. The air is fresh and
unpolluted, you feel as if you have the whole
area to yourself. Marquenterre is
mesmerising, memorable and magical.
From here it’s a short ride to the town of
Saint-Valery-sur-Somme, though you may
have added waiting time if you enter the
town via the route which includes a railway
crossing as we did and watched a steam train
pass majestically by, it’s passengers waving
excitedly. This ancient and extremely
photogenic little town on the Somme Estuary
has absolutely oodles of charm and it’s easy
to spend an entire day here.

Stroll the cobbled streets, wander along the
harbour and the long esplanade to ogle the
mansion houses and discover the colourful
sailors district and you’ll know exactly what
lured the artist Degas and writers Victor
Hugo and Jules Verne to holiday here. Long
before them, Joan of Arc was held captive
here, the dungeon where she is said to have
been imprisoned is still there, a small stone
tower and you can’t help but think how the
poor girl must have felt cooped up in her
claustrophobic prison.
William the Conqueror was here too,
stopping off to collect soldiers before
making history and conquering England in
1066. Standing on the ramparts looking out
to sea in the medieval town I wondered if he
too had stood there, wondering, dreaming,
daring to hope that his ambitious plans to
quell his dastardly enemy across the water
might come true. All that thinking makes you
hungry and luckily this little town is teeming
with cafés, bistros and restaurants.
The stream train is an irresistible lure. It
takes you, on authentic wooden seats, round
the Bay of the Somme, classified as one of
the most beautiful bays in the world. We
spotted wild pigs, deer and all manner of
birds en route. You can take a boat ride out
on the bay where the largest colony of seals
in France live, join a walking or bike tour
(you can rent bikes in the town), or simply sit
back and enjoy the ambiance. Watching the
sun set over the bay, is one of those
unforgettably beautiful moments in life…

You could continue on the D940 all the way
to Le Tréport in Normandy where the road
then becomes the D925 and runs around
the coast through Dieppe before reverting
to its original number to reach Le Havre. But
we stayed in Picardy and headed inland to
the city of Amiens where we swapped the
bike for a boat.
Les Hortillonnages is one of the best kept
secrets of France. These watery arteries give
Amiens a unique atmosphere. You really
have a feeling that you are in the most
beautiful countryside right in the centre of a
busy metropolis. The hortillonnages are a
major heritage site - marshland gardens,
cultivated for centuries, created on manmade
islands and on the land which lines the
waterways. In fact the gardens are so old
that no one knows when they began. But,
legend has it that when the city’s Cathedral
was built in the 13th century, it was on a
field of artichokes managed by the gardeners
of the hortillonnages.
All tours are by eco-friendly electric boats
which glide silently across the tranquil
waters. Mark said it made him feel like a kid
again, steering the boat round islands,
stopping off at jetties to look at artworks
dotted around. The only disturbance was the
cooing and calling of birds and the croaking
of frogs, you’d hardly even know you’re in a
city if it wasn’t for the fact that you can see
the spire of the great Gothic cathedral in the
distance.
Amiens is so amazing – it deserves an article
all to itself – see page 56.

Gorgeous Gerberoy
In complete contrast to the metropolis of Amiens, an
hour’s drive on traffic-free roads brought us to
gorgeous Gerberoy close to the border with Normandy.
It’s a “Plus Beau village de France”, one of 159 villages
recognised for their outstanding beauty and charm,
classified as the most beautiful villages in the country.
Cobbled streets covered in roses and hydrangeas,
flowers dripping from every window box, the gardens
of artist Henri Sidaner, a beautiful old church and one
of the most gorgeous restaurants I’ve ever seen, Le
Jardin des Ifs (with a listed Jardin Remarquable), made
this a knockout stop off and an easy half day visit.
What to do in Gerberoy

From here we decided to stop off at the
Chateau de Chantilly where Mark promised
me he’d treat me to some Chantilly cream
for my birthday a week before. What’s a girl
to do? Fling the diet plans out of the
window and dig straight in of course! In the
gorgeous gardens of this fairy tale castle is a
hamlet that was allegedly the inspiration for
Marie-Antoinette’s hamlet. Pretty little halftimbered
buildings and sweet bridges over a
bubbling stream. The restaurant serves great
lunches including strawberries and Chantilly
cream, which was whipped at our table,
right in front of our eyes, which were not
bigger than our bellies, we both managed to
get through a very large dollop of utterly
seductive cream.
Read more about Chantilly castle and its
amazing stables here.
My birthday surprise didn’t end there, we
took a detour to the area of Chateau Thierry
on the Champagne border. I’d never heard of
it before and was amazed to discover that
more than 10% of all the Champagne made,
is actually produced from vines in this part
of Picardy! I have to tell you, if you’re a fan
of the fizz like me, it’ll make you
effervescent with happiness to go here and
enjoy a fabulous tasting at several
Champagne Houses (yes, we squeezed a
couple of bottles into the bike boxes). We
headed off under a sky that looked like a
black velvet bag full of twinkling diamonds
to find our hotel for the night.
It was time to cross the border into Lille but
first we stopped off at Thiepval Memorial. It
was one of the most emotional memorials
I’ve been to, not just because of the 72,000
names etched into the white walls, or the
row upon row of crosses.

Road trip to northern France film... We were
followed by a film crew!
The guides who work here offer free tours
and they share anecdotes and stories of
those whose names are forever remembered.
As the guide told me about a man whose
bravery at trying to save the lives of his
comrades ended in his own death, I looked
up on the wall and saw those names so
familiar to us all, Davis, Smith, Roberts – and
Cedric Dickens, great-grandson of Charles
Dickens who’d loved the north of France so
much. The absolute tragedy of the sacrifices
made, the terrible losses, completely
overwhelmed me and I burst into tears and
thought how very grateful I am for all that I
have.
inn. We went to a microbrewery and Mark
fell in love with a beer called YuZu. We
visited museums and art galleries and fell
under the spell of this vibrant city that’s
crammed with cultural highlights and full of
friendly folk, so that we could hardly bear to
leave.
And like, Amiens, this city gets an article to
itself – see page 80.
Nord: Bucket loads of culture and
fabulous markets…
Photo: Lauren Ghesquiere, OT Lille
Parking the bike up in a street right near the
centre of Lille, the capital of Hauts-de-
France, we strolled down cobbled streets
under colourful bunting, past boulangeries
and cake shops where people waited
patiently in queues – a small price to pay for
the lushest of dishes. We dined at an
authentic estaminet, the Flemish word for an

Our last stop was Saint Omer, around half
an hour from Calais and a quintessential
French market town that has a massive
historic footprint. Thomas a Becket AKA
Saint Thomas Becket took refuge from
Henry II of England in there in 1165.
Centuries later, three of America’s Founding
Fathers, Daniel, Charles and John Carroll,
studied at the Jesuit Chapel.
But we were there for the Saturday morning
market. A riot of colour and scents and
sounds fill the cobbled square in front of the
neo-classic town hall as stalls are piled high
with produce, vegetables grown on the local
marshes and farms or by green-fingered
locals. This is one of the most authentic and
friendly markets I’ve been to. And when
you’re done, pop to the town library and
head to the old part of the building where
books go back to the 7th century and a First
Folio of Shakespeare’s plays was recently
discovered on its heaving shelves. And stop
to enjoy a local beer and Flemish dish at any
number of cafés and watch the world go
by….
This region is a land of contrast, sea and
country, history and culture, arts and crafts
and gastronomy. Whether you stay for a
weekend or a week, there’s so much to
discover that one trip is never enough….
Get my free road trip guide to the Hauts-de-
France here – lots of tips for restaurants and
things to do in and around the areas
mentioned…

“Paris isn’t France” say the French who aren’t Parisians. They’re right of course even
though Paris is one of the world’s best loved cities with some 16 million visitors a
year. Who can resist the legendary Eiffel Tower, the endless galleries of the Louvre,
the sight of the Arc de Triomphe, the authentic cafés and walks by the Seine?
However, as they say, there is more to France than Paris so, if you’re in the city and
fancy a seeing another side of France, here’s a list of incredible spots you can visit in
a day, without a car, and still be back in time for dinner says Janine Marsh

4 City Visits
Strasbourg, Alsace
At around 1 hour 50 minutes by TGV
train from Gare de l’Est, the beautiful
town of Strasbourg in Alsace is a
fabulous day trip.
Must-sees including a magnificent
Gothic cathedral, it’s one of the most
beautiful in France, a fairy-tale like
town centre, and a network of canals
which are perfect for a relaxing boat
ride. There are heaps of museums,
fabulous restaurants and superb wine
bars where you can indulge in a glass of
local Riesling or Gewurztraminer before
you catch the train back to Paris. And, a
year-round Christmas shop for a
memorable souvenir even if you’re not
there for the famous Christmas
markets. Honestly, one day is not
enough for this unmissable city…
More on Strasbourg:
Best things to do in Strasbourg
Where to eat out in Strasbourg

Reims, Champagne
45 minutes by train from Gare de l’Est lies
Reims, the capital of Champagne. From the
station you can walk to some of the best
Champagne houses including Mumm (15-
minute walk), and Charles de Cazanove (5
minutes) for a tour and tasting. On the
outskirts of town, Ruinart is the favourite
Champagne of the French and oldest
Champagne house in the world, but you’ll
need to take bus no. 3 from the station and
walk 5 minutes from the Crayeres stop (total
20 mins – it’s worth it!).
There are also loads of little boutique
Champagne bars including the fabulous Pol
Couronne, where you can taste and buy
affordable vintage Champagnes from the
family-run company.
“The city of coronations” or “the city of
Kings” as it’s known, houses the great
UNESCO-listed cathedral Notre-Dame de
Reims, where French kings were crowed for
1000 years.
More on Reims:
Visit Champagne vineyards and villages by
train from Reims
Epernay is each to reach by train from Reims

Bordeaux, New Aquitaine
Bordeaux is now just 2 hours from
Paris by fast TGV despite the 300 mile
distance. From Bordeaux St Jean
Station, then hop on a tram to the city
centre to discover the wonderful
UNESCO listed architecture of the
“Pearl of Aquitaine” as the city is
known. Visit a unique wine museum,
splash in the Miroir d’Eau water
sculpture and soak up the ambiance of
sunny Bordeaux with a glass of
regional wine. Ancient churches, Place
de la Comédie, fabulous museums,
foodie heaven and divine wine bars...
More on Bordeaux:
10 great things to do in Bordeaux
Where to eat out in Bordeaux

4 City Visits
Dijon, Burgundy
If you love cities filled with beautiful,
historic buildings. If you love fantastic
food and wonderful wines. And if you
love museums, galleries, sitting at
terraced cafés watching the world go
by as you sip a delicious local wine,
impossibly fabulous street markets,
great wine bars and a vibrant friendly
vibe, then add Dijon to your must-see
list.
This amazing city has all these things by
the bucket load… and more.
At just over an hour and a half from
Paris Gare de Lyon, Dijon train station
is in the city centre and totally
walkable.
More on Dijon:
What to see and do in Dijon

4 Chateau Visits
Versailles, Ile de France
Versailles is France’s most famous palace
and it really does live up to the hype. It’s an
easy 40-minute train ride from Paris (there
are two stations in Versailles, the closest to
the Palace is Versailles Rive Gauche). Be
warned, the palace is huge, you’ll need an
entire day here (I once spent 3 days there
and still didn’t see it all). Sumptuous,
ridiculously opulent, breath-taking for its
history and beauty, the castle is packed
with wow factor. The gardens are equally
gorgeous. Book tickets online before you
go and try to go as early as possible to
avoid the queues to get in. There are
restaurants on site but the gardens are
fabulous for a picnic and there are plenty of
restaurants in the town which is also well
worth a visit.
More on Versailles:
Versailles chateau guide
10 things to do in Versailles

Chantilly, Picardy
The Chateau de Chantilly, in Picardy, is
one of the most beautiful Renaissance
castles in France and very easy to reach
from Paris. Take a 23 minute TER train
ride from Gare du Nord, then take the
free shuttle bus or take the 30 minute
walk if you fancy seeing the pretty town
en route. Enjoy the opulent interior, an
incredible art collection, stunning horse
show, the gorgeous gardens with a
beautiful hamlet which inspired Marie-
Antoinette. And, not to be missed in the
chateau restaurant - dessert with
famous Chantilly cream.

Photo Béatrice Lécuyer-Bibal
Vaux-le-Vicomte, Seine-et-Marne
In the TV series Versailles, it was the
chateau of Vaux-le-Vicomte which was
featured, not the chateau of Versailles.
Vaux-le-Vicomte has a more authentic
interior for the days of Louis XIV. Far less
crowded, elegant and exquisitely beautiful,
Vaux le Vicomte was the inspiration for the
Palace of Versailles and made Louis XIV
mad with jealousy when he saw it. Stunning
gardens and interior make this a must-see
chateau. From Paris Gare de l’Est, take the
train to Verneuil l’Etang train station (35
minutes) and hop on the “Châteaubus”
shuttle to to the Château. There’s a lovely
restaurant too.
More on Vaux-le-Vicomte:

4 Chateau Visits
Fontainebleau, Ile de France
UNESCO listed Fontainebleau has a long
and interesting history going back to the
12th century. In the middle of a forest it
was originally a hunting lodge used by the
French Kings. Its gold plated gates and
iconic horseshoe shaped staircase (where
Napoleon stood to announce his
abdication in 1814) immediately alert you
to the fact that this castle is special. The
castle has a rather intimate feel inside
despite the fact that it’s enormous, with
1500 rooms it’s one of the largest in
France, Take the train from Gare de Lyon
to Fontainebleau-Avon, which takes
about 40 minutes, and from there it’s a
bus ride of about 15 minutes (Bus No. 1
behind the station).
More on Fontainebleau:
The Chateau de Fontainebleau
Gardens of Fontainebleau

4 Village Visits
Giverny, Normandy
Claude Monet’s house and garden in
Giverny, Normandy certainly leave an
impression. Take the train to Vernon
(nonstop services save time) and then hop
on the shuttle bus outside. 3 hours is
enough to wander through the house
which looks just like Monet has popped out
to do a spot of painting. The gardens are
stunning, a palette of colours, a riot of
plants and an ogle-some lily pond.
Afterwards take a wander through the tiny
but pretty town and visit restaurant Hotel
Baudry where many of Monet’s friends
stayed (don’t miss the atmospheric studio
in the garden). There’s a great museum in
the one street town, several boutiques, a
pretty church where the artist is buried and
plenty of places for a pit stop.
More on Monet's house and garden

Barbizon, Seine-et-Marne
At the edge of the Fontainebleau forest,
around 60km from Paris, Barbizon is
nicknamed the village of the painters,
because of the role it played in the history
of French pre-impressionism. Artists like
Renoir, Sisley and Monet flocked here,
charmed by the picturesque village and
surrounding nature.
A listed Village of Character, today its
postcard pretty streets are home to art
galleries, artisan workshops and the
Museum of the Painters of Barbizon
musee-peintres-barbizon.fr
The village is surrounded by woods and
perfect for a walk to see what inspired so
many artists...
Take the train to Fontainebleau (see page
43) then a taxi or bus 21 to Barbizon.
Painting: Charles-Francois
Daubigny, 1877, Barbizon
school.
Saint-Rémy-lès-Chevreuse, Yvelines
The town of Saint-Rémy-lès-Chevreuse at the
gateway of Paris is pretty, romantic and a real
taste of the countryside. You’ll find the
promenade des petits ponts, a path along a
canal lined with stone houses and old wash
houses. The history of Chevreuse dates back at
least 1,000 years, and there’s a 12th century
castle which is free to explore. And the lvoely
17th century Chateau de Dampierre is a 22
minute cycle from the town. There’s a cheese
farm and several excellent restaurants – an
idyllic place. Take the train from Gare du Nord
to Saint-Rémy-lès-Chevreuse which takes
about 50 minutes. From the station you can
rent ebikes and bikes – great to explore the
Rambouillet Forest.
Details: chevreuse-tourisme.com

Provins, Ile de France
Photo: Rod Williams
The UNESCO listed world heritage site of Provins is a medieval gem complete with a grand
castle and winding cobbles streets. It’s also famous for its year-round festivals and events
but this is no Disney town, it feels like you’ve stepped back in time to the middle ages! The
train from Gare de l’Est goes direct to Provins in 1 hour 24 minutes. Details: provins.net

4 Village Visits

4 church Visits
Chartres, Eure-et-Loir
You can reach the town of Chartres,
Center-Val de Loire, from Paris
Montparnasse in one hour (make sure
you take the fast service). Chartres Gothic
UNESCO listed cathedral is one of the
largest in France and dates to the 12th
century with magnificent 13th century
stained glass windows. From April to
October the facade of the Cathedral is
part of the city-wide Son et Lumiere
event.
There’s also a pretty historic centre in the
city with a stained glass museum and lots
of excellent restaurants.
More on Chartres:
Chartres Cathedral
What to see and do in Chartres

Mont Saint-Michel, Normandy
It's a long day trip, but this place is so extraordinary, it's worth it. It's certainly easier (and
often cheaper) to take a bus tour from Paris but you can take the train to Rennes and then a
bus. The extraordinary abbey at the very top of this fairy-tale island is well worth the effort.
Wander the wiggly, winding roads full of boutiques and restaurants, it's touristy for sure but
it really is special. More: How to spend a day trip at Mont Saint-Michel

Bourges, Cher
Just two hours from Paris, Bourges is a
sensational city to visit with a most beautiful
cathedral. It’s not on the Cathedral tourist
route for many visitors but it should be. built
between the late 12th and late 13th
centuries, is one of the great masterpieces
of Gothic art and the 13th century stainedglass
windows are exquisite. The town is full
of half-timbered houses, Roman towers and
there’s even a castle, built by Jacques Coeur,
the man who bankrolled Joan of Arc’s
missions.
Read more about Bourges:
Bourges - what to see and do in the city...

4 Cathedral Visits
Boulogne-sur-Mer, Pas-de-Calais
Boulogne-sur-Mer on the Opal Coast of
Pas-de-Calais doesn’t have a Cathedral but
a Basilica. I live close by but I’m not biased
when I say the Basilica Notre Dame is
simply outstanding. Its crypt is the longest
in France, dating back to Roman times and
is astonishingly beautiful with walls
smothered in frescoes and paintings. It's
also home to an incredible collection of
priceless relics including what's said to be
a drop of the blood of Christ. You’ll see a
hint of Rome’s Pantheon and soupcon of
St Paul’s Cathedral in London – but,
amazingly, this church was designed by a
priest with no architectural experience,
and it is magnificent. It's from 2.5 hours
from Paris by train and the old town is
magnificent and worth a visit in it's own
right.
Read more about Boulogne-sur-Mer and
its Basilica here.

4 Cultural Visits
Rouen, Normandy
In the old part of Rouen there are cobbled
streets, there are more than 2000 halftimbered
houses and a Cathedral loved by
Claude Monet the artist.
Don’t miss a wander down the rue du Gros
Horloge to see the 16th century clock.
Foodies might want to follow in Julia Child’s
footsteps – the American cook had her first
French Sole Meuniere in La Couronne which
is also the oldest restaurant in France.
Joan of Arc was executed in Rouen and there
are several tributes to her including a very
modern church. There are several great
museums including the Fine Arts Museum
with an impressive collection of impressionst
paintings, lots of great shops and restaurants.
From an hour and 22 minutes by train from
Paris, Rouen is a top city visit.

Auvers, Picardy
30km north of Paris, the Auberge
Ravoux is the last house that Vincent
Van Gogh lived in before he shot
himself in the chest in the garden and
passed away in the room that he
rented there. Suffering from mental
health issues, he finished several
paintings during his 70 day stay. He
and his brother Theo are buried at tin
the town cemetery close to the
Romanesque Church which Van Gogh
immortalised in his paintings. Follow
the “Vincent” plaques in the pavement
to see the landscapes he captured on
canvas. The train takes around an
hour from Gare du Nord or Gare
Saint-Lazare to Auvers (you may need
to change at Pontoise).
View from Van Gogh's room at his
lodgings in Auvers

4 Cultural Visits
Castle of Monte-Cristo, Ile de
France
Alexandre Dumas built himself his
dream home at the height of his glory
in 1844. He had had huge success with
his books the Three Musketeers and
the Count of Monte Cristo and called
his very extravagant home, a castle in
fact, the Chateau de Monte Cristo. His
study was in the neo-gothic style
Chateau d’If next door. Dumas though
was a party animal and instead of
writing more best sellers, he lived it up
and, riddled with debt in a few short
years he had to sell it for much less
than it cost to build and furnish. It’s a
fascinating place to visit, as he called it
“an earthly paradise.” Either take the
Train from Gare Saint-/Lazare or RER
line A to Marly Le Roi, then bus 10 to
Lesamps and a short walk. Details:
chateau-monte-cristo.com
Moret-sur-Loing, Seine-et-Marne
Ile de France
Ranked among the most beautiful
villages in France, Moret-sur-Loing
has oodles of charm. A gem located
in Seine-et-Marne, Moret-sur-Loing
captivated the painter Alfred Sisley,
who captured the medieval charm of
the village in many of his paintings.
Moret-sur-Loing Tourism
Want more ideas for Paris day trips? A free book is in progress! Just subscribe to The
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The natural wonder of
Amiens
The city where nature is the star.
Janine Marsh explores the
northern "Venice"...

Amiens, the capital city of Picardy, is one of those places that people tend to leave off their
bucket lists despite it’s age-old history, incredible UNESCO listed Gothic Cathedral and
remarkable “Green Venice” of ancient canals which criss cross the city, an extraordinary
network of watery arteries dotted with hundreds of floating gardens…
Les Hortillonnages
Hortillonnages is not a word you’ll come
across often and possibly not outside of
Amiens. And me telling you that it means
market gardens won’t in any way convey just
how utterly amazing they are. From the
middle ages, the hortillonnages have made
Amiens famous throughout France. 65km of
ancient canals peppered with island gardens
lie in the shadow of the Cathedral right on
the edge of the city.
They go way back in time, probably to the
days of the Romans, but it was in the middle
ages that gardeners started to plant the
floating gardens and grow vegetables. It’s
said that the Cathedral itself was built on a
field once used to grow artichokes, donated
by gardeners in the 13th century to the
church.
A short walk from the city centre along the
river Somme, which flows through the
middle of Amiens, will bring you to the
hortillonnages which you can explore by
guided electric boat along a 3km stretch
(April to October). It’s incredible to find that
one moment you’re in a teeming metropolis
and the next in tranquil waters, dragon flies,
butterflies and birds flitting about, water lilies
bobbing on the water. There are still around
ten professional gardeners growing
vegetables and fruit here. They sell their
produce at the weekly market in the
medieval St Leu district, alongside the river.
Most of the gardens are worked by keen
owners, handed down through families for
generations. The hortilllonnages are an oasis
of wild nature, tamed patches full of flowers,
small boats quirky buildings and beautiful
huts.

Art with a heart
Each year a unique Art & Garden festival
takes place in the hortillonnages – an
outdoor art gallery which spills into the
water and on islands and riverbanks. From
June to October some 50 artworks are
installed on the islands and in the water,
some of them monumental, all of them
extraordinary.
The only way to see them all is by electric
boat and you can take a self-guided tour.
Follow the circuit, all the islands featured in
the festival have pontoons where you can tie
up your boat and then wander freely.
There’s a firm emphasis on sustainability and
our relationship with nature at this festival: a
wall made from recycled drinks cans, a repurposed
phone box in which you can listen
to the sounds of insects and water plants.
This is one of the most unusual and beautiful
garden festivals I’ve ever been to.
Entry is not at the same place as the normal
guided boat tours. Instead make your way to
the Port à Fumier, Camon district where you
can to rent an electric boat for this fabulous
excursion. Expect to spend around two and a
half hours seeing all 50 artworks. There are
parking spaces available and a welcome desk.

Island life
I stayed at a B&B in a cabin called
Ch’Canard, on one of the floating gardens, a
little corner of paradise. Accessible by a tiny
bridge over a ribbon of water, as soon as I
closed the gate, it was like being on a
remote island, far away from the buzz of
normal daily life. In my beautiful 120 year
old, tastefully decorated cabin for two I felt
cossetted and cocooned, the star of my own
Robinson Crusoe story.
In the gorgeous gardens I crossed little
wooden footbridges to explore dozens of
islands all around me, lilies floated on the
calm canals, roses and willows dipped down
to the water’s edge and the air was filled
with the song of frogs and birds. I slept like a
baby and can honestly say, it’s one of the
most unusual and wonderful B&B’s I’ve ever
stayed in. Details: Ch’Canard, Rivery
The biggest Cathedral in France
The first stone of Amiens Cathedral was laid
in the year 1220. It is a masterpiece of
Gothic art, 145metres long and 70 metres
wide at the transept – it is truly monumental
and utterly divine. There are vaulted
doorways, statues of kings, apostles and
saints. 126 pillars support the soaring
vaulted roof, the 16th century wood carved
choir stalls are magnificent, stained glass
windows cast soft light on the ancient walls
and floor. There are gargoyles galore, turrets
and towers and listening to the majestic bells
gives your goose bumps.

You can climb to the top, 307 narrow steps,
for stupendous views over the town. It’s well
worth the effort though probably not for
those with vertigo or claustrophobia.
Look out for the weeping angel, a wonderful
statue which forms part of a 17th century
mausoleum behind the High Altar. It was
featured on a popular postcard sent by
soldiers in the Somme during WWI.
In summer and December, you’ll see Amiens
Cathedral in a different light as the façade is
lit up, an ingenious feat of engineering in
itself. At night the exterior of the cathedral is
smothered in a technicolour light
performance in a show that makes audiences
gasp. This free 50 minute show is an
absolute must-see. State of the art
projection technology creates a truly magical
experience under a night sky.

Water market
At the foot of the Cathedral, the weekly
Saturday morning market along the pretty
Quai Belu in the old district of St Leu with its
higgledy piggledy colourful houses, has a
lovely, festive atmosphere. The market on
the water as it’s known, is where the market
gardeners of the hortillonnages sell their
produce and have done so for centuries.
Almost everything here comes from the
hortillonnages or around the Somme area -
from flowers and vegetables to wild herbs,
cheese, honey, charcuterie and even beer.
Every third Saturday in June, the market
gardeners arrive by traditional flat bottomed
boat to sell their goods at the “Marche sur
l’Eau” (water market). It’s a very colourful
and merry event and the market traders
dress in medieval costume in this homage to
the days of old when market trade was
conducted from boats. It’s a delicious day
out and lots of fun.
Jules Verne’s house
You mustn’t miss a visit to the home of one
of France’s great writers. Jules Verne has
inspired generations for more than 100 years
with his tales of adventure, science and
daring do. He wrote many of his stories right
here in Amiens where he lived for 18 years.
His 19th century mansion has been restored
to look just as it did in the late 1800s when
he filled his rooms with the reference books,
geographical surveys and scientific reports
which inspired his fantastic stories of
journeys to the centre of the earth, the
moon, under the sea and of course, around
the world in 80 days.

Where to eat out
There are plenty of cafés, bistros and fine
restaurants in the city…
The great writer's study looks as if he’s just
popped out. The wood panelled walls have
the patina of history embedded in them and
there’s a fabulous collection of books,
posters and even models – including a flying
machine Verne imagined before aircraft
were even invented. It’s a fascinating visit, a
trip back to the past. I recommend taking
the tour with an audio guide. Details:
maisondejulesverne
Locals love: Le Quai restaurant is hugely
popular with the locals. In its prime position
in Quai Belu overlooking the canal, with the
Cathedral in the background, it’s great for
coffee, a glass of wine or a cocktail, and even
better for lunch or dinner. The staff are
friendly, the menu is terrific with an
emphasis on fresh regional products, classic
French brasserie dishes, delicious salads and
excellent vegetarian options. restaurantlequai.fr/

Riverside lunch: Overlooking the river
Somme, at the entrance to the
hortillonnages, Au Fil de l’Eau restaurant is
lovely inside but even more so outside on a
sunny day. Seated on a terrace that makes
you feel as if you’re in a treehouse, or in a
flower filled garden courtyard, you’ll feel like
you’ve escaped to the country. The menu is
typically French with fresh and seasonal
products and local classics such as Ficelle
Picarde, a savoury pancake topped with a
creamy sauce and utterly delicious. Find
them on Facebook: Restaurant.Bar.Au.Fil.
De.L.Eau/
Wine and dine: Brasserie Jules is an
institution in the city and a family favourite
for Sunday lunch. Paris brasserie style with
gleaming brass and plush red banquettes,
Jules Verne (in a photo) seems to look on
approvingly while artworks depicting scenes
from his tales decorate the walls. The
seafood platters here are legendary, piled
high with the freshest of shellfish, and the
most succulent oysters.
www.brasserie-jules.fr/
Practical information
From Paris, Amiens is a little over an hour by
train, and from Calais by car it’s around an
hour and a half.
The tourist office is next to the Cathedral:
http://www.amiens-tourisme.com/
More info on the region:
visit-somme.com/explore
UK.France.fr
15 things to do in Picardy

Toulouse
Colourful, cultural and
captivating...
Janine Marsh gets under the skin of the "pink
city" to discover its secrets and museums...

France’s 4th largest city has a multi-faceted
personality. It’s famous for being home to
Airbus headquarters, hosts satellite, space
and aerospace industries and has three
major universities.
It’s a sprawling modern city with an ancient
heart at whose centre is the Place du
Capitole where major events and markets
take place, surrounded by architecturally
glorious buildings, restaurants, the town hall
and bars. Around this grand central square
are a web of streets, teeming with life,
brimming with museums, art galleries, shops,
bars, bakeries and bistros.
Cross the river Garonne via the Pont Neuf,
which despite its name is actually the oldest
bridge in the city, and you’ll find the arty,
earthy district Saint-Cyprien, home to major
museums and galleries, residential and nontouristic.
Meanwhile, on the inner city outskirts a new
resident roams the streets, a mythical beast
bought to life – read on to discover more
about the Minotaur of Toulouse…
And there’s a secret part to Toulouse which
visitors rarely discover. A short walk from
the Capitole, but a world away from the busy
centre, are streets filled with beautiful
mansion houses, tiny squares where you’ll
find art and local bars with a friendly
welcome a part of Toulouse with a laid back,
authentic vibe.
Closer to the capital of Spain than the capital
of France, it’s just 60 miles from the Spanish
border, Toulouse has absorbed the laid back
vibe and flavour of its southern neighbour.
Aperitifs come with tapas on the terraces of
sunny cafés and the night life has a distinctly
Latin flavour…

Wander around the city
You can’t go to Toulouse and not visit the
Place du Capitole. The stunning 17th
century neoclassical style façade of the
Capitole building is the equivalent of the
Eiffel Tower in this city. Around this central
area are a series of districts each quite
different from the other and all easy to reach
on foot. Saint-Cyprien on the left bank of the
River Garonne is a bit bohemian, while In the
Tounis district the river Garonette, a branch
of the might Garonne River, has long gone
but its old bridge remains. There’s also Saint-
Georges, Saint-Aubin, Saint-Étienne and the
Carmes districts. Pick up a map from the
tourist office and go walkabout to discover
the many charms of Toulouse.
Above top left: arcade at the Place du
Capitole with painted ceiling; bottom left,
je t'aime tree along the river Garonne;
above street in St Etienne district
Museums, marvels and minotaurs
If it’s culture you’re after, Toulouse will
definitely float your boat. With more than 20
museums there’s no lack of choice from the
Airbus Museum to the Space Museum –
brilliant for tech fans, the Museum of Natural
History which is great for families and any
number of art museums for lovers of
paintings and sculptures and artefacts from
antiquity to modern.

Halle de La Machine: magical & mad
The Minotaur is the brainchild of François
Delaroziere and La machine company famous
for The Island of the Machines in Nantes and
for their incredible street theatre machines.
As a kid I was captivated by stories of
mythical beasts. My favourite tale was of a
Minotaur who roamed a labyrinth on the
Greek island of Crete. Small me believed that
Minotaurs, a species which had the head and
tail of a bull and the body of a man, really
lived, much like dinosaurs. I dreamed of one
day meeting a minotaur. Growing up, your
childhood imaginations fade away – but
sometimes, dreams do come true. Arriving at
the brand new Halle de la Machine I was
immediately confronted by the sight of a
giant, blinking his big blue eyes in the sunlight
and breathing steam as he swung his head to
look at me. At 14m high and weighing a
stonking 14 tonnes, you certainly can’t miss
him. He’ll take you for a ride on his back and
makes you feel as he’s almost alive.
The Minotaur is not alone. In the vast space
of the Halle de la Machine more mysterious
inhabitants are waiting to meet you.
Amongst the exhibits are a walking 37 ton
spider called Ariane and musical machines
which make up the strangest orchestra you’re
ever likely to see. There’s a giant set of wings
piloted by a machiniste, pipes which spout
flames, twirling guitars and a table laid for an
enchanted dinner where the pepper is
sprinkled by a flying waiter.

The “veritable-machinistes” who operate the
machines are also actors and story tellers
and part of the show. It’s seriously mad,
utterly magical and truly a must-see when
you visit Toulouse.
Tip: head to the onsite Minotaur café for
delish dishes or a glass of wine at the bar
and enjoy the spectacle of the fairy tale
beast wandering about outside.
Modern art and ancient…
The Halle de la Machine isn’t the only home
to a Minotaur in Toulouse. At Les Abbatoirs
Museum of modern art, Picasso’s famous
stage curtain “The Remains of the Minotaur
in a Harlequin Costume” is a star in an
outstanding collection. Created for a theatre
in 1936, because of its fragility this showstopper
is displayed for only six months of
the year. The museum has a superb
collection of modern and contemporary art
with works by many Spanish artists exiled
from Spain when General Franco seized
power during the Spanish Civil War. This is
no elitist museum, you can do yoga classes
amongst the artworks, workshops, a library
and at Christmas they hold a market where
artists sell their works. After your visit pop
to the park next door to enjoy the views
over the river Garonne.
For a complete contrast, the Bemberg
Foundation is tucked away in a pretty
courtyard near the Capitole. It’s in a former
16th century mansion where each room has
been restored to 19th century glory to
showcase the wonderful collection of
paintings, furniture and ornaments including
Degas, Monet, Matisse and Boudin. I loved
the intimate feel of this museum, as if it
were still lived in by someone with the most
exquisite taste in art.

Secret Toulouse
Less than 15 minutes’ walk from the
Capitole brings you to secret Toulouse - the
Carmes and Saint-Étienne districts where
there’s a villagey vibe and most visitors
never venture. This is old Toulouse, the
narrow streets of Carmes are lined with
sumptuous manor houses built by wealthy
merchants from the 16th century onwards
like those in rue Ozenne. Place Sainte
Scarbes is breath-takingly pretty with its ivy
clad mansions and tinkling fountain, and
surrounding it are roads with smart
boutiques, neighbourhood bars and
architecturally stunning buildings.
Saint-Étienne is like the Marais district in
Paris, streets lined with grand houses and
chic stores in the shadow of the majestic,
and massive, Cathedral St. Etienne. Browse
the pretty local shops in rue Bouquières and
peek through the gates of gorgeous private
gardens and mansions behind monumental
doors but you’ll need to take a guided tour
to see more (you can book at the tourist
office)
Practical info
Paris to Toulouse by train takes from 4
hours, 6 minutes.
Tourist office: www.toulouse-visit.com and
UK.France.fr
And Toulouse is also a great base for other
great destinations, Gers is just a short drive
away (see page 8 for more details),
Carcassonne is only 6 miles to the south
east, the Mediterranean is just 100 miles
away and Albi is 50 miles away…

I’m not quite sure if there’s anywhere else
you’d see waltzing Frenchmen together with
a waiter sporting a furry shark’s head hat
and a group of cynical journalists practicing
tai chi on the dance floor of a luxurious
cruise ship floating down the Rhone River.
But life on a CroisiEurope boat is anything
but ordinary.
When my friend Anne asked me if I’d join
her and a group of women travel writers on
a 3-night cruise from historic Avignon in
Provence to the foodie city of Lyon, I wasn’t
sure it was for me. Aren’t river cruises for
old people I thought. But, I love Avignon and
I’ve never seen the gorges of Ardeche
through which we would pass – so I said
yes.
What a surprise I got and how wrong I was
These cruises are fabulous for friends,
couples and groups. Though it was a short
trip, just three days, I felt as refreshed as
though I’d had a much longer break. With
drinks and nibbles on offer from 10am to
1am, tea, coffee and water are available 24
hours, seriously good food, brilliant
excursions and lovely rooms – we were
spoiled rotten.
If I had to describe my CroisiEurope trip
from Avignon to Lyon via the Rhone River in
just three words: fun, fabulous and (very)
French. In fact, us uptight Brits made a pact
to do another trip before we even

Who are CroisiEurope cruises for?
Though predominantly French and older
people on my cruise, there was a real mix of
guests - groups of friends, couples and
honeymooners. Kim and Jenny from
Australia threw themselves with gusto into
the whole thing. They danced every night
(there’s always dancing and music at night)
and took part in a dance competition plus
the crew show.
There were also guests from Malaysia,
Canada, America and the UK.
There are specific CroisiEurope cruises
which cater for families with stuff to do for
children, including kids clubs, and other tours
targeted at non-families (they’re clearly
marked on cruise listing details).
Cabin chic
I had a smart upper deck cabin with floor to
ceiling windows, a super comfy bed and
lovely bathroom with an invigorating shower.
Drifting down river, lying in bed with an early
morning cup of tea, watching the stunning
scenery pass by is one of the most relaxing
experiences I’ve had in a long time.
There are optional daily excursions. I did
three in three days and I could have done
more but I wanted time to chill out on board
too. Relaxing in the bright airy salon or on
the sun deck with a book was a great way to
unwind. We visited the wheel room, enjoyed
aperitifs and made new friends. It’s a real
blend of relaxing and exploring, eating great
French food and having a lot of fun.

Friendly, fun and festive
On one night there was a touch of Strictly
Ballroom in the salon with waltzing
Frenchies and tango dancing Malaysians
mixed with disco dancing octogenarians,
though 86 year old Evelyn who comes from
nearby Avignon refrained from dancing on
account she said, of breaking her leg doing
the cha cha cha at a party a while back. She
did however don a black curly wig to mime
to Edith Piaf belting out La Vie en Rose at
the crew Show. We all joined in the chorus
and gave her a huge round of applause.
The crew show is a tradition and it’s clear
that they love doing it. The French guests
especially love it though it’s probably not
what US and UK holiday makers are used to.
In fact for a group of cynical women travel
writers we found it remarkably easy to let
our hair down and join in - who can resist
Mama Mia or Le Madison - a line dance
favourite in France for more than 50 years -
which if you don’t know it before your
CroisiEurope trip, you certainly will by the
time you’re finished. Sure it’s a little bit kitsch
but it’s great fun and if your holiday makes
you laugh, then it’s a good holiday!
There’s a lot of laughter on this boat. On day
1 the crew are introduced one by one. Anis
the Purser strolled in to the sound of “I’m
sexy and I know it”, the bar staff paraded to
“The Eye of the Tiger”. The guests clapped
everyone enthusiastically from the captain
and his brother the deputy captain, to the
chefs and housekeepers and Lilla the laundry
lady (Pretty Woman if you must know).
You’re drawn into the “family” of
CroisiEurope crew and it’s up to you if you
want to or not but on this trip, everyone
loved it, whatever their age or nationality.
The crew are part of the journey and by the
way, they all speak English.

It's a bit Dirty Dancing for oldies
The staff, whether bar, wait or cleaners are
also the entertainers. At dinner on the first
night, the lights were turned off and the
staff, one of them sporting a fluffy shark’s
head hat (we never did find out why) sang
happy birthday to 86 year old evergreen
Evelyn. She was delighted and managed to
blow out a candle and sparkler with ease.
We all sang to her again. The ice was by now
well and truly broken. The crew say they get
a lot of groups celebrating birthdays and
anniversaries, it’s a good place to celebrate.
By day two strangers chatted to strangers,
there was camaraderie at the quiz event and
when we were on a tour, people noticed if
someone didn’t get back on the coach!
The tours are part of what make this such a
fabulous holiday. CroisiEurope have been at
it a long time and they’ve perfected things.
They know what their audiences want and
they have many types of audience. Boats
cater for several types of guest - from once
in a lifetime trips to the Antarctic, to river
cruises in Europe.

Slow travel and food, glorious food
You can do as much or as little as you like,
and there are excursions available every day
- sometimes two. They’re designed to take in
the best of the area where you visit. On my
trip we had a terrific guided tour of the
Palais des Papes in Avignon, a coach ride
through the Gorges of the Ardeche with
stops at key observation spots such as the
Pont d’Arc, wine tasting in Vercours and a
tour of the Roman town of Vienne, either by
Segway or on foot.
CroisiEurope's cruises are all inclusive
(except for some off boat tours), from
breakfast buffet to 3 course lunches and 4
course dinners plus traditional gala dinner.
Wine and cocktails, spirits and soft drinks
are included - with the bar open from 10 am
to 1am. When you return from tours you’re
handed a refreshing drink, rooms are
cleaned, beds made, the staff, every single
one of them, was unfailingly friendly and
welcoming.
The food is superb and served at table (we
had one buffet lunch). Classic French dishes
are their speciality and the chefs work as
much as possible with local producers to
source fresh, seasonal, local food. You don’t
get a menu to choose from, the attitude is
very much “maman cooks, the family eats”
but they do vegan, vegetarian and gluten
free alternatives, and if you don’t like a dish
(menus are circulated the night before), just
let the reception desk know and they’ll ask
the chefs to make you something different.
The inclusive wine is excellent, a choice of
reds, whites and rosés, plus a daily cocktail
and shorts.
A great way to cruise
My conclusion was, a CroisiEurope river
cruise in France is a trip that makes you
smile. It’s perfect for couples and friends.
You’ll relax, laugh, eat like a King, get to visit
some beautiful places and experience slow
travel in the best possible way.
CroisiEurope offers a number of Rhone
itineraries from April to October. They also have
itineraries across France including Paris to
Honfleur, Provence and many more routes. For
further information and reservations visit:
www.croisieurope.co.uk
For loads of ideas for visits to France see: www.
france.fr

LILLE
A city that's a fea
Janine Marsh

st for all the senses says
Vieux Lille, the old town of Lille, is a
place of fanciful Flemish facades,
where bars, bistros, boutiques and
shops line the cobbled streets which
wind their way labyrinth-like around
the central Place du Général de Gaulle,
known as the grand’Place. Outdoor
cafés abound in the ancient city centre,
art of all kinds adorns the streets and
you could visit a different museum in
and around Lille every day for two
weeks and still not see them all. The
former capital of culture is lively,
vivacious and at the same time
cultured and urbane. Lille has
undergone a metamorphosis from a
once industrial hub through a rather
run down stage to emerge as a top city
break destination and one of the most
fascinating cities in Europe…
Here’s where to indulge in a feast for
the senses - and the stomach…

ART: Palais des Beaux Arts
The Palais des Beaux Arts lives up to its
name, it really is a grand palace and one of
the largest museums in France. It has the
second biggest collection of fine arts
outside of Paris with exhibits from
antiquity to contemporary, including all the
greats from Rubens, Goya and Monet to
Van Gogh, Picasso and Chagall. Head to
the basement to discover a unique
collection of ancient relief maps, fourteen
17th century exact replica miniature
models of towns such as Ypres in Belgium
(it was used as a blueprint for rebuilding
Ypres after WWII) and Lille. They were
once used by Louis XIV and his famous
martial engineer Vauban to plan military
tactics. There are regular, world class
temporary exhibitions, and innovative
touch screens (including gigapixel) help
visitors to explore the artworks.
EAT: Au Moulin d'Or
Au Moulin d'Or is very close by, in the centre
of Old Lille in a converted lingerie store
which is a listed monument, this restaurant
featured in Dany Boon’s “Bienvenue Chez les
Ch’tis”, France’s biggest grossing film of all
time. It’s been renovated to a fabulous
standard with glittering chandeliers and a
gorgeous central staircase and regularly
showcases local artists. Upstairs or
downstairs, there’s a great atmosphere and a
classic brasserie menu – delicious.
31-33 Place du Théâtre

ART: Musée de l’Hospice de la
Comtesse
The Museum of the Hospice de la Comtesse
is steeped in history. It was founded in 1236
by Jeanne, Countess of Flanders to care for
the poor and sick, there’s a wonderful
painting in the baroque chapel of Jeanne and
her sister Marguerite giving money to the
hospice’s nuns. The oldest part of the
building dates to the 1400’s and includes
magnificently furnished rooms depicting
Flemish life from the 15th to the 17th
centuries. My favourites were an enchanting
17th century kitchen with gorgeous blue and
white Delft-like tiles and a linen room with a
perfectly preserved 17th century press.
There’s a fascinating collection of paintings
and antiques and regular exhibitions
dedicated to the history of Lille. It’s a
charming museum with an authentic
atmosphere – a must-see.
EAT: Barbue d'Anvers
A short walk away, tucked away down an alley behind a pretty courtyard in a beautiful 16th
century Flemish building, lies a local legend. Here they serve regional specialities such as rich
and robust carbonnade flamande – a beef stew made with beer and brown sugar; the
unpronounceable potjevleesch, a dish of three cold meats (traditionally rabbit, chicken and veal)
in aspic; and waterzooi, a type of chicken soup. The dining room is charming and vintage, with
candles, books and knick-knacks galore. The locals adore this quirky restaurant with a warm
ambiance. 1 bis Rue St Etienne 59800 Lille; lebarbuedanvers.fr

ART: Gare Saint Sauveur
One of the things I love about Lille is the
way abandoned but spectacular buildings
are converted into cultural venues. Gare
Saint Sauveur, a former freight station
built in 1861, is now an inspirational
space where regular events, art
exhibitions and performances are hosted.
It houses a cinema, bar and restaurant,
gardens and a summer pop up bar. The
huge warehouses are perfect for
showcasing art and I loved how the
railway tracks were still in situ, a
reminder of the past fixed in the present.
It’s also one of the main Lille3000
venues, the legendary tri-annual, 9-
month long art festival which takes place
in the streets and public buildings of Lille
city and surrounding districts.
EAT: Bistrot de Saint So
Bistrot de Saint So is part of the Gare Saint-
Sauveur complex and is a great way to mix art
and food. When you’ve finished feasting on
the art in the former station, head to the very
chic restaurant and enjoy some seriously good
dishes. This place is super popular with the
locals for lunch (Wednesday – Sunday) so
make sure you book in advance on their
Facebook page and enjoy dining on the
fabulous large terrace watched over by a giant
baby with a tail, or in the chic interior. I’m not
sure the food makes your “hair sparkle” as
they claim (with a big smile) but with
fantastically tasty salads and a seasonal menu,
I think they might just be right! It’s also open
Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights for a
trendy night of music with DJs and live
performances, plus funky cocktails. .facebook.
com/bistrotdestso

ART: Vielle Bourse
Head to la Vielle Bourse, the former stock
exchange, built in 1623. The courtyard hosts
a second-hand book market (Tues-Sun,
afternoons) on stalls under a vaulted
walkway, alongside walls lined with fabulous
carved friezes and sculptures. If you’re there
on a Sunday night in the summer, join in the
tango dancing under the stars.
EAT: L’Atelier des Chefs
Cook your own lunch or dinner with a chef
tutor. At L’Atelier des Chefs offers you’ll
improve your skills as you create a classic
dish from scratch in just 30 minutes. You
then get to enjoy eating your masterpiece at
this fun cookery school. Great for
individuals, couples and friends. Lunch time
cooking course €17 Euros; gourmet dinner
course lesson (one hour) where you’ll make
a main course and dessert €38. Booking in
advance is essential.
ART: Tri Postal
Located in the former postal sorting
office, it’s neither a museum or art centre
but a place of art and life say the staff.
Temporary exhibitions, performances and
workshops are held in this dynamic and
exciting cultural venue.
EAT: Coke
Coke restaurant in the ex-offices of the
old Mining Company of Lens, hence the
name. It’s a majestic building designed by
archi-tect Louis-Marie Cordonnier.
Upstairs is an elegant, chandeliered dining
room, down-stairs is modern and arty and
a retractable glass roof makes it great for
sunny days. Bold, playful and clever food
is on the menu from a talented team
working in a glass-fronted kitchen. It’s
also a great venue for an aperitif with a
swanky cocktail bar and music on Friday
nights.

ART: La Piscine & Street art Roubaix
A short tram or metro ride from Lille,
Roubaix's art-deco swimming pool turned
museum with a world-class collection, is one
of the most popular museums in France.
Read more about it here.
Roubaix has street art superstar status with
an annual urban art festival (#XU), fabulous
murals and two amazing studios dedicated to
urban culture. Atelier RemyCo has 15 artists
in residence including some well-known
names (Mr. Voul and Freaks the Fab).
Meanwhile Atelier Jouret hosts 40 artists:
painters, sculptors, fashion designers and
more. On the first Sunday of each month,
you can visit the workshops, meet the artists
and buy something unique from these
hotshots of urban art.
EAT: Meert at La Piscine
Meert is famous for its jewel-like pastries
and the most moreish waffles ever made.
They’ve been making sweet things since
1761 and their famous shop in Lille is like
stepping back in time. They also have a
beautiful art deco tearoom and restaurant
with a gorgeous terrace garden (perfect for
sunny day lunches) at La Piscine museum in
Roubaix. The menu reflects the world class
exhibitions and really adds a little je ne sais
quoi to your visit. The chef works with
curators to design unique menus, with
exhibition-theme influenced dishes (and
there’s also a seasonal, classic French
menu). Leave room for one of those famous
desserts and waffles – you’ll be in good
company, they were created for Belgian
King Leopold 1!

ART: MUBA Eugène Leroy
In the district of
Tourcoing on the
outskirts of Lille, the
Museum of Beaux Arts
has an excellent and
substantial permanent
collection from the
17th-20th century.
EAT: Le Paradoxe
Le Paradoxe, 3 Rue
d’Havre by the museum.
It’s a seriously funky
restaurant located in the
former Hospice which
dates back to the 13th
century.
Far left: La Piscine; above middle, dancer and artist Yon Costes,
Ateliers Jouret; above: artist Mr VOul, Ateliers Remyco
Find details of all
venues on the Lille
Tourist Office website

La Chartreuse de Neuville
A monumental hidden gem in the countryside of northern
France...

A long, tree lined drive surrounded by fields
and forests, makes for an impressive
entrance to a grand arched doorway. Step
through and you’ll enter a different world.
One which has its feet firmly in the past.
I’d spotted this monumental building from
the ramparts of nearby Montreuil-sur-Mer’s
citadel. It’s hard to miss the grey stone
belfries reaching to the sky and row upon
row of ancient buildings which stand out
amongst the forests and fields of the lush
countryside. La Chartreuse de Neuville-sur-
Mer or the Charterhouse, as it’s called in
English, is nothing short of astonishing.
History of the Charterhouse
In 1084, a group of monks wanting to follow
the harsh, contemplative lives of early
Christian hermits, formed a small community
in the Chartreuse Mountains, near
Grenoble, southeast France. They led silent,
meditative lives and owned no possessions.
From this beginning grew a new monastic
order that spread rapidly across Europe. The
monks became known as Carthusians and
their priories as charterhouses.
History of La Chartreuse de Neuville
Charterhouses were established all over
Europe. They were all built to a formal
specification and for the same purpose says
my guide Patrick Alindre at La Chartreuse.
Around a Cour d’honneur lived the Brothers,
monks who worked in the monastery and
supported the Fathers. Behind this were the
apartments of the Fathers. Each lived alone
and in silence.
The Charterhouses were huge “because only
then could silence be guaranteed and that
was essential to the role of the Fathers” says
Patrick as our footsteps echo around the
enormous cloisters.
The original charterhouse of Neuville was
built in 1324, commissioned by the powerful
Count of Boulogne in the shadow of
Montreuil-sur-Mer which was a pilgrimage
destination, as well as a prosperous port
town.

After the French Revolution when the state
seized church property, the monks left and
the building fell into disrepair. It was sold to
a private buyer who dismantled it and sold
off the material which was used in local
buildings. The Charterhouse was bought
back by the state in 1870 and restored by
renowned architect Clovis Normand, born in
nearby Hesdin and a pupil of Violet le Duc,
recreator of Notre Dame Paris. Normand
also designed St Hugh’s Charterhouse in
Parkminster, England which is twinned with
La Chartreuse de Neuville.
Life in La Chartreuse
The two communities of La Chartreuse de
Neuville consisted of 24 Fathers and 24
Brothers who grew vegetables and fruit and
supported the Fathers. They were all
vegetarian.
Each father lived alone in an apartment
called a cell, though it was quite substantial.
They lived in silence and without company.
Their food was passed through a guichet, a
cupboard in the wall with two doors. A
Brother would open the outer door, put the
food in the cupboard and close the door.
Then the Father would open his door to take
the food. It was the same with any supplies
including firewood. The Fathers were
forbidden from doing work other than
spiritual, except for cutting firewood. Each
apartment was exactly the same, on two
levels and with a small enclosed garden
where they could grow flowers if they
wished.
The ground floor level was considered the
material world – connected to the world of
man. There was a short corridor known as a
promenoir where a Father could walk for
exercise. Upstairs they entered the Ava
Maria room and left behind the world of the
non-spiritual. Here they would pray for hours
on end. They also had a wood cutting area, a
bedroom and prayer area, a table and chair.

They were allowed to do spiritual things,
reading, writing, painting and sculpting but
nothing they produced ever had their
signature. They had no personal
possessions, no ego and no vanity. There
were no distractions and their roles were
viewed as collective. They prayed. A lot.
The Fathers were felt to experience a
spiritual consciousness by withdrawing from
the world which enabled them to pray for
mankind.
I expected to feel claustrophobic and shut in
when I stood in the apartment of a Father.
But instead, it felt surprisingly open, tranquil
and calm. In the small garden I could feel the
rays of the sun and hear the birds. Other
than that it was silent as it had been for
centuries.
Colourful patterns fell across the cloisters
from the stained glass windows. There are
several cloisters, arched and columned and
glorious.
The Fathers met five times a day for prayer
in the Great Chapel and on Sunday
afternoons when they dined together –
always in silence. On Mondays they were
allowed to take a walk outside the
Charterhouse and speak if necessary and
once a week they would gather in the
Chapter Room and speak – but only if they
had something relevant to say. The French
saying “l’avoir l’avoir a chapitre” – having a
voice in the chapter, which means to have
influence, originated from this.
They were allowed to meet up with their
family for just two hours a year. No part of
the Charterhouse was accessible to the
public but religious visitors were allowed.
And every Charterhouse followed the same
rules and routines.

In 1901 the Loi of Association separated the
church and state in France, and the
monastery finally met its end. It became a
sanatorium, orphanage and asylum. In WWI
the French Government turned it over to
refugees fleeing Belgium. 5000 people
passed through, 600 died there and are
buried in the grounds.
La Chartreuse has dozens of cloisters,
chapels, a library and other rooms. It was
once the home of the printing press for all
the Charterhouses of Europe 1800s but the
equipment was transferred to St Hugh’s
Charterhouse (there are plans to have it
returned).
A huge central courtyard around which are
cloisters is dominated by two belfries – one
for God and one for man with bells ringing
on the hour. The prior of the community
was elected every two years from the
Fathers and lived in a bigger house
overlooking the central courtyard.
When they died their bodies were laid to
rest in the chapel of death which you can
spot by the carved skull over the top of the
door. They were buried in a cloth, with no
marker, nothing remained of them with their
purpose fulfilled – to pray for mankind and
to have no ego.
Nowadays you can visit and see the
beautiful gardens overlooking the Canche
Valley but the guided tour (in French but
English speakers are given a paper guide to
help them) is essential to really appreciate
this incredible building.
Exhibitions are held in the refractory and
regular events take place year round
including a Blues Festival in the summer,
electro nights and concerts.
It’s a fascinating place with a real feeling of
spirituality…
lachartreusedeneuville.org

La Charteuse, also known as the “Elixir of
Long Life” for its alleged medicinal qualities) is
apparently made from 130 different local
herbs, plants and other botanicals gathered
from the mountains around Grenoble. It's
matured in oak casks, and the finished liqueur
packs quite a punch.
The recipe dates back to 1605 and was
created by monks at the La Grande
Chartreuse in Voiron. It is still made there
today, said to be concocted by two monks, the
only people in the world who know the
heavily guarded recipe.
La Chartreuse liqueur
If you’re wondering if there’s a link –
you’re right. There is.
Try a slug of the green stuff in a hot chocolate
for a "Verte Chaud" or mix with sparkling
water, mint leaves, a little lime juice, 2
teaspoons of sugar and ice to make a classic
Chartreuse Mojito...

Petit peak at Provence
Exotic, lush in Provence
Oppède...
Photo: Cheryl Shufflebotham

As you wind your way across the plains of the Vaucluse in Provence (all olive groves,
lavender and vineyards), you see Oppède le Vieux hanging above you on the north
face of the Petit Luberon. It looks haunting and beautiful says Lucy Pitts...
The rise…
Oppède le Vieux dates back to at least the
12th century. At the very top of the village
stand the remains of a medieval castle and a
formidable Romanesque church. The castle
was at first home to the Counts of Toulouse,
then the papacy in the 13th century and
thereafter to the blood thirsty Jean Maynier,
Baron of Oppède in the 16th century. The
latter used Oppède’s strategic positioning to
wage war and it’s believed he was
responsible for the massacre of 3,000
people including women, children and the
elderly.
And fall
Notwithstanding its occupants, the village
thrived as a 900 strong farming community
for several hundred years. But by the end of
the 17th century, the castle had been
abandoned and slowly the residents began
to move down to Oppède-les-Poulivets in
the valley below. Houses on the side of the
mountain are damp here, and the Luberon
castes a long shadow, especially in winter. By
1909, with the main village hall relocated to
the valley, nature was left to reclaim the
village.
And then the revival
But for World War II, that would have
probably been the end of Oppède le Vieux.
But in 1940, attracted by its secluded
position, a small community of creatives
moved into the village to escape persecution
by the occupying forces. The community
eventually grew to about 50, including the
architect Bernard Zehrfuss, French sculptor
François Stahly and the writer and artist
Consuelo de Saint Exupéry.
Although, as others had before them, the
creatives too eventually moved out. But, if
you look carefully, you’ll see the odd painted
wall as proof they were here. And today,
people are starting to move back.

GoutetVoyage.com

It feels like little has changed in the last few
centuries as you leave your car in the car
park below and begin to climb to the top.
The streets of Oppède are narrow, cobbled
and steep and the backstreets and houses
defy gravity.
The impressive church of Notre-Damed'Alydon
has both a gargoyle and a
hexagonal bell-tower and it’s certainly not
what you expect. It’s also home to some
fading frescoes as well as music recitals in
the summer. But sadly, the adjoining castle
is little more than ruins.
A quirky little Café
When you’ve drunk in enough of the
Vaucluse below, you twist and turn your
way back down to the main square. Stroll
past intriguing doorways in hidden corners,
15th and 16th century walls and clusters of
geraniums trailing from pots in pretty
courtyards.
Below, and at every turn, are majestic, wide
angled views of the plains. It feels like the
whole of Provence is spread out beneath
you. And, even in late October when I went,
the skies are still blue and the Vaucluse
mountains and Mont Ventoux can be seen
in the distance. It is silent. Spellbinding.
Stunning.

www.lagrange.com

Le Petit Café is delightfully eccentric. A
vintage sports car is parked outside and a
bizarre assortment of bric a brac fills the
dining room and interior, including a
dentist’s chair! I didn’t like to ask.
Outside, you sit under the trees on an
assortment of brightly coloured cushions,
painted tables and chairs. There’s a large fig
tree, a shaggy white dog, coloured lights and
glass bottles, an old wine barrel, pots
growing bamboo, a birdcage and an
assortment of herbs which match the
eccentricity and charm of your host.
A Panier des Saveurs (which is a tapas made
from seasonal Provencal ingredients) served
on a rusty, old vintage tray and a glass of
chilled white wine later and you’re ready to
spend the rest of your life here. It’s one of
those hedonistic places you visit for sheer
pleasure. And then want to stay for a
lifetime. In short, it’s one of the many great
little gems of Provence.
You can find out more about the Vaucluse in
Provence at www.provenceguide.com

YOUR PHOTOS
Every weekend, we invite you to share your photos on Facebook - it's a great way for
everyone to see "real" France and be inspired by real travellers snapping pics as they go.
Every week there are utterly gorgeous photos being shared and here we showcase the most
popular of each month. Share your favourite photos with us on Facebook - the most "liked"
will appear in the next issue of The Good Life France Magazine...
APRIL:
A photo we can all identify with
right now. The old lady at the
window, Sarlat, Dordogne by
Pat Bruce. +8000 engagements

MARCH:
Bomres Les Mimosas by Ron Jo
Warren. +6000 engagements
FEBRUARY:
Monet's garden, Giverny,
Normandy by Daniela
Perria Rickey +6000
engagements
Join us on
Facebook
and like and
share your
favourite
photos of
France...

Discover the
Northern
Riviera
Fabulous beaches, an historic past, chic towns and
easy access to the UK. Welcome to the Northern
Riviera...

The French Riviera, or Côte d’Azur, is world
famous for good reason. But there’s another
Riviera in France that is far easier to reach
for both British buyers and Parisians, and
one that has much to offer in its own right
says Liz Rowlinson…
The nearest part of France to the UK, the
Northern Riviera - or Côte d’ Opale - offers
layers of history, from prehistory to the two
world wars, including the Great War, Added
to this is over 120km of beautiful fine sandy
beaches, chic seaside towns and, at times,
even better weather than it’s glitzier southern
counterpart.
“This is a fabulous area, popular with French,
British and Belgian home buyers, because of
its proximity to both the UK and northern
European cities,” says Tim Sage, Leggett’s
coordinator for the area. “It’s easy to reach
by ferry or Le Shuttle for the British - and
numbers commute back to the UK weekly -
and it’s much more affordable than other
French coastal areas, including the Charente-
Maritime and the Côte d’Azur.”
With buoyant tourism due to the historic
locations - the battle sites of Agincourt and
later World War One, the Commonwealth
War Cemeteries, and rocket launch sites - it
can also be good for holiday rentals with the
offering of a full range of outdoor activities.
So where are the popular spots for buyers?
Starting at the Belgian border - the Riviera
spans from there to Berck-sur- Mer in the
Pas-de-Calais department - the stretch
between Dunkirk and Calais is popular with
French buyers, yet less so with the British.

“For some reason there’s a perception that
it’s not the ‘real France’, perhaps because of
its very proximity,” he says. “Yet, nearby
Gravelines and Loon-Plage are popular with
the French, with 2/3 bedroom apartments
from €180,000,” says Tim.
British interest picks up at the delightful
seaside resort of Wimereux on the Côte
d’Opale with its Belle Epoque villas and
beach huts. The steep cliffs of the nearby
Deux Caps - Gris Nez and Blanc Nez - offer
beautiful beaches backed by dunes and
conifers. Nice houses start from €200,000.
The beautiful old fortified city of Boulogne-
Sur-Mer is next up (or rather down the
coast), popular with British and French
buyers for its good value - you can get a 2
bedroom apartment for €114,000, or a 5
bedroom townhouse for around €200,000.
Golfers gravitate towards Hardelot-Plage,
south of Boulogne, because of its
championship golf course. British buyers
love the fact you can buy a golf apartment
for around €110,000.
Whilst the Côte d’Azur has Cannes, the
northern coast has Le Touquet, and the palm
trees add to its glamorous image, ever since
the likes of Noel Coward, Winston Churchill
and Edward and Mrs Simpson holidayed
there back in the 1920's and 30’s. Indeed,
it’s an alluring mélange of French and
English, with Parisians in love with its
refinement too, it’s full name is Le Touquet-
Paris Plage.
Expect to pay €350,000 to €400,000 for a
two-bedroom apartment, but head across
the bridge for better value Étaples - a
traditional fishing port village with
fishermen's houses from €80,000. Visit the
wonderful fish restaurants and you may be
smitten.

Last but not least is Berck-Plage, or Bercksur-Mer,
a great year-round location with
fabulous beaches, a popular kite festival and
apartments from €85,000 or 3 bedroom
houses from €180,000. The former fishing
village also offers the delicious dish
Berckoise Caudière, a kind of bouillabaisse
of the Channel - who needs to head all the
way to Marseille?
See Tim's property portfolio Pas de Calais:
NOTE
Whilst we may not be able to travel
currently, Leggett Immobillier, the award
winning property agency in France are still
open for business, albeit working from
home. They are able to send property
details, complete mandates electronically
and book reserved tours, find details here:
https://www.frenchestateagents.com/
pages/covid-19-open-for-business

BeaconGlobalWealth.com

Your essential
Guide to
moving to
France
In these difficult times with the Covid-19 virus preventing travel and
halting plans, and the upcoming removal of the UK from the European
Union, we asked Jennie Poate of Beacon Global Wealth to give us some
top tips to help those planning on moving to France when they can…
You find your dream home in France,
you can’t wait to move there and
start living the good life but there are
a few things you need to do first.
You’ll need to fill in paperwork and
notify authorities in the UK and
France, sort out healthcare, maybe
inheritance planning, savings, tax and
whole host of fun things.
Before you leave the UK, check this
list to see what needs to be done:
Get form P85 from Revenue and
Customs, fill it in and return it. It
notifies the tax authorities that you
are leaving the country and helps
ensure that you’ll be taxed
appropriately.
If you’re retired, request an S1 Form.
https://www.gov.uk/moving-orretiring-abroad
Set up a mail redirection if you know
where you’ll be living in France or to
an address in the UK that can forward
mail on to you in a batch.
Inform your local GP and dentist that
you are leaving so they can take you
off their books.
Request a State pension forecast: if
you’re going to live in France longterm
or forever and may not return to
the UK before you become eligible for
your pension. https://www.gov.uk/
check-state-pension
Notify the Pension Service of your
new address so they’ll know how to
contact you. https://www.gov.uk/
international-pension-centre
Notify your personal or company
pension trustees of your new address.

You can keep your UK investments in the
UK, but they will now be taxable in
France. Notify administrators of your
new address. If you would like to know
how your UK pension(s) will be treated in
France and the tax efficient alternatives
for your savings/investments as a French
tax resident Jennie is happy to offer a
free consultation.
Let your utility providers and local
authority know you’re leaving and ask for
final bills.
If you’re keeping your home in Britain
and renting it out, you should inform
your insurance company as your existing
policy
may not cover you for home rental.
If you’re still paying a mortgage on the
property, you should let your mortgage
provider know.
Your UK rental Income will remain
taxable in the UK but must be declared
on your French tax return. As there is a
dual tax arrangement between the UK
and France, it won’t be taxed twice
(Brexit should not impact this
arrangement) https://www.gov.uk/
government/publications/non-residentlandlord-application-to-have-uk-rentalincome-without-deduction-of-uk-taxindividuals-nrl1
Make a Will. If you already have one,
In France
Get your paperwork in order, you’ll need
to have a number of original
documents – and take copies of
everything. What you need depends on
whether you’re retiring or working either
as self employed or for a company.
Essential documents may include:
Birth certificate, marriage certificate, Tax
returns (for two years), 12 months of
bank statements, certificates of
professional qualification (if setting up a
business), driving licence.
Some documents may need to be
translated by an official translator.
Open a bank account, it is increasingly
difficult to pay for things without one if
you live in France, most utilities are now
paid online or by cheque. You can open
a non-resident account before you leave
the UK and notify the bank to change it
to a resident account when you arrive.
Sort out health care in France. For the
first few months you can still use your
EHIC (pre-Brexit, post Brexit has not
been confirmed). Or sort out private
healthcare. If you’re retired, your S1
Form currently enables you to claim
back your healthcare costs (pre-Brexit).
The French healthcare system has a
great reputation but you may need to
top up with private health insurance –
this is normal, the majority of French
people take out top up insurance. You
should then return your British EHIC
card and apply for your Carte Vitale
which you need to take with you to all
medical appointments in France.

Apply to the local CPAM (Caisse Primaire
d’Assurance Maladie) for healthcare
cover. Applicaton depends on your status
eg retired, salaried worker, selfemployed.
https://www.ameli.fr/
If you take your UK registered car with
you, you’ll need to register it in France.
There is currently a huge backlog to
process applications. You’ll need to have
various documents and make an
application online at:
https://ants.gouv.fr/
If you’ve got kids, you’ll need to register
them for school.
There is more information on the UK
Government website about applying for a
residence permit when the transition
period ends on 31 December 2020.
Jennie Poate is a UK expat who has lived
in France for several years and is a
qualified financial advisor who has helped
many expats to organise their finances
and tax in France.
Schedule your free no obligation
consultation to find out if Jennie and her
team at Beacon Global Wealth can help
you.
info@bgwealthmanagement.net
beaconglobalwealth.com/
www.beaconglobalwealth.com

Everything you need to know about
French Mortgages
An estimated 84,000 UK nationals moved
across the Channel in 2019 – a 10 year
high. Traditionally most home buyers were
retired or looking to purchase second
homes, but France is an increasingly
attractive option for young families and
people in their 40’s and 50’s.
Affordable property, beautiful countryside
and coastline, great food, wine and good
quality health and education systems are all
irresistible temptations for a new generation
of Britons seeking a new life in France.
French house prices are considerably
cheaper than the UK. Although official
figures suggest the property values are
rising gently, there are plenty of
competitively priced homes for sale,
particularly in rural locations and smaller
towns.
The French mortgage market and
eligibility for a loan
Buying a property with a mortgage is
increasingly popular, helped by continuing
low interest rates. Mortgages can also be
taken out to pay for renovations, new build
construction (including both the land and
building costs), equity release or to remortgage.
Though, if you are thinking of remortgaging,
be aware that in France there
may be high fees.
There are a number of differences between
French and UK mortgages. Below are a few
examples:
Interest rates: In France rates are set for a
maximum 25 year term. A fixed term of 5
years is more common in the UK.

Eligibility: French banks look in detail for
proof of income and the total amount of
household debt. This debt ratio determines
whether they feel your mortgage is
affordable. In the UK the affordability criteria
is generally three times your income.
Consumer protection: The French
mortgage market is heavily regulated.
Buyers are required to pay for mortgage
protection insurance. The UK market,
despite some tightening in recent years, has
lighter regulations.
The French mortgage market is open
to both residents and to nonresidents.
French mortgage lenders have become far
more prepared to offer loans to non-resident
buyers in recent years. Lenders have an
option of taking out a Euro mortgage rather
than a loan in sterling from a UK bank. An
important first step is opening a French
bank account; this will enable you to deposit
and transfer funds regularly.
Proving that you have a stable income is a
key test for French home buyers. Lenders
will not discriminate against you if you are
self-employed but you must supply three
years’ tax returns and your earnings over
that period determines the amount you can
borrow.
Types of French mortgage
In France, the majority of home buyers opt
for a standard capital repayment loan in
where you repay both the capital and the
interest.
Interest only loans are less common and
are mostly taken out by landlords who want
to minimise their outgoings.
rates increase and are generally fixed for
the entire duration of the mortgage.
However, redemption fees can be
expensive. So, if you want to repay early,
remember to take this into consideration.
Borrowing a maximum of 80% of the
property’s value is the norm, though it may
vary up to 85%. How much you can borrow
depends on your financial circumstances
and credit rating.
Equity release isn't common in France but is
possible if you don't have an existing
mortgage on your property. The amount of
household debt must not exceed 33% of
your annual income.
Calculating the cost of your
mortgage
When applying for a mortgage, French
lenders must state the interest rate as an
APR (Annual Percentage Rate) to make
comparisons easy. A number of factors
affect the total cost including: Amount
borrowed, loan duration, type of mortgage
(e.g. capital repayment or interest only)
Interest rate (APR), fees, mortgage
protection insurance and redemption
penalties
Example: Couple buying a French property
for €170,000 with a capital repayment loan.
% € Years
Loan Term 20
Loan to Value 80.00
Interest Rate (APR) 1.80
Property Purchase 170,000
Deposit 34,000
Amount Borrowed 136,000
MONTHLY COST 675
*Important note: this is an example only and
does not represent an offer.
Fixed rate or variable rate? Fixed rate
mortgages offer greater stability if interest

How to apply for a French mortgage
Banks and financial lenders in France require
detailed documentation - be prepared! This
includes: Applicant details, financial
information (proof of income, arrears/debts
etc) Employment and business details,
Project costs and fees, outgoings & assets.
With CA Britline you can download and
complete the application form for a
mortgage here: www.britline.com/mortgage
You can also request a Pre-mortgage
approval certificate. This will confirm how
much the bank is prepared to lend you.
Successful mortgage applicants receive a
Mortgage Offer which is valid for 30 days.
Note: Borrowers must sign a sale & purchase
contract for their property before a lender
will issue a formal Mortgage Offer.
Security, guarantees and mortgage
protection
There are different ways to secure against a
mortgage using various types of guarantees.
The fees payable vary according to each
option. It is recommen-ded that you discuss
this with your lender.
In France, mortgage borrowers are offered a
high degree of consumer protection, covered
by a strict regulatory framework, to guard
against irresponsible lending.
Good luck with your property search!
Further Information
To find out more about CA Britline’s
mortgages with competitive rates and
flexible options with rapid approval, contact
us today: www.britline.com
A loan is a commitment and must be repaid.
Check your ability to repay the loan before
making the commitment. Under the
condition that your mortgage file is accepted
by your Caisse Regionale de Credit Agricole,
lender. You have a cooling off period of 10
days to accept the mortgage offer. The
completion of the sale is subject to obtaining
the loan. If this is not achieved, the seller
must refund your payments.

Pissaladière

This delicious Provencal version of pizza is a firm favourite in Nice and the French
Riviera. It's easy to make at home, is great for a snack or light meal, very moreish and
goes well with a green salad or on its own or with a glass of rosé...
Ingredients for a Pissaladière for 6
40g (1 ½ oz butter)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1.5kg (3lb 5 oz) onions, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons thyme leaves
1 quantity of bread dough – easy make recipe below
1 tablespoon olive oil
16 anchovies sliced in half
24 pitted olives (if you’re not a fan of olives you can use cherry tomatoes cut in half)
How to make Pissaladière
Melt the butter with the olive oil in a pan.
Add the thinly sliced onions and half the thyme.
Cover the pan and cook on a low heat for 45 minutes stirring from time to time. The onions
should be soft but not brown. Season with salt and pepper and leave to cool.
Preheat oven to 200˚C (400˚F/Gas mark 6).
Roll out the bread dough and place in an oiled tin (34 x 26xm is ideal).
Brush the top of the bread with olive oil and spread the onions over the top.
Lay the anchovies in a lattice pattern over the onion and pop the olives in the lattice
diamonds. Wash them in water if you like them less salty.
Bake for 20 minutes or until the dough is cooked and lightly browned.
Sprinkle the remaining thyme over and serve warm or cold, cut into squares.
How to make bread dough for your Pissaladière
2 teaspoons baker’s yeast (15g/ ½ oz)
200g (2 cups) strong plain (all purpose) flour
½ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
125ml warm water
Sift the flour, add the yeast and salt and mix.
Stir in the olive oil and lukewarm water and
knead into a dough by hand or with a mixer.
Leave to rest in a lightly oiled container for
one hour.
Turn out on a lightly floured surface and roll
into shape.

Le Soufflé is considered a culinary masterpiece in France. The word soufflé comes from
souffler – to breathe or to puff, and this dish takes puffing to an art form!
The first time the recipe for a cheese soufflé was recorded was 1742 in Le Cuisine Modern
by Vincent La Chapelle (modern for those times of course!). La Chappelle was known to
cook for rich and wealthy clients, including Madame de Pompadour, mistress of Louis XV.
Years later, Chef Marine-Antoine Carême, one of the first celebrity chefs, published “Le
Pâtissier Royal Parisien” published in 1815, contained several pages on the art of making
soufflés. It put the dish thoroughly on the gastronomic map of France and the world.
Ingredients
50g/½ cup/1.3 oz Butter, plus a little extra for greasing
25g/¼ cup/0.9 oz Breadcrumbs OR 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese
50g/½ cup/1.03 oz Plain flour
1 teaspoon mustard powder
300ml Milk
4 medium eggs
100g/2/3 cup/4oz strong grated cheddar (blue cheese or goats cheese are good too
Salt and pepper to season

Audrey Hepburn learns how to make cheese souffle in the film "Sarbina." The master
chef critiques the dishes: "Too low; too high; too heavy; sloppy” or in Sabrina's case,
uncooked as she forgot to turn the oven on! Here's how to make it perfectly with an
easy to follow recipe...
How to make a perfect cheese soufflé
Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 and pop a baking sheet on the middle shelf. Butter
a 15cm (6 inch) soufflé dish, then sprinkle in the breadcrumbs OR the Parmesan cheese
(whichever you prefer) and shake the dish to make sure the crumbs/Parmesan cheese are
evenly spread and tip the rest out.
Melt the butter over a medium heat in a pan then stir in the flour and mustard powder.
Keep stirring for about a minute. Take the pan off the heat and gradually stir in the milk,
mixing it thoroughly. Return the pan to the heat and stir continuously for around 10
minutes until the mix becomes very thick. Transfer the mix to a bowl and allow it to cool.
Separate the egg whites into a bowl and fold the yolks into the sauce then the cheese, and
season well.
Whisk the egg whites until peaks form. Using a metal spoon, gently stir the whipped whites
into the white sauce. Then spoon the mixture into the greased dish. Run a cutlery knife
around the edge to help the souffle rise above the rim and not stick.
Place on the baking sheet and bake for 25-30 minutes until the top is golden and risen and
has a slight wobble.
Serve immediately and enjoy enormously!

Pastis Gascon /
Gascon Apple Pie
Ingredients for 4 to 6 people in a 25cm tart dish
1 packet (12 sheets) filo pastry
80g sugar
Icing sugar
For the apple filling
About 4-6 apples
3 tbsps sugar
About 75g melted butter .
60 ml Armagnac (you can use calvados too but it wouldn’t be Gascon but Norman)
Half a lemon
Method
Pre-heat the oven to 180°C (170C fan)/375F/ gas 5
Peel, core and quarter the apples, then slice thinly and set aside in a bowl tossed in a
squeeze of lemon, 3 tablespoons of sugar and the Armagnac. Leave to macerate for up to
one hour.
Melt the butter.
Brush the tart dish with melted butter.
From the filo pastry pack, take a sheet, brush with melted butter and lay on the base of the
dish. Press into the sides leaving the overlap hanging over the edge of the tin. Lay another
buttered sheet at an angle to the first sheet and repeat three more times so that the pastry
covers all round the edges. Keep the packet covered with a damp clean cloth to stop the
pastry drying out.
Spread the apple mixture over the base.
Brush a sheet of filo with butter and sprinkle with sugar (about a teaspoon). Scrunch it up
like a tissue and pop it on top of the apples. Repeat with the remaining filo pastry. You’re
aiming to create height and texture. The sugar on the pastry makes it very crispy and
sweet.
Pop it into the oven for about 30 to 35 minutes. Keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn’t
burn on the corners but is golden all over.
The tart is delicious cold or warm – sprinkled with icing sugar (and you can also sprinkle a
little more Armagnac if you wish.

I never thought I would be so excited to see Jean-Francois, the village handyman. But I’d
spent endless days indoors not seeing another human (if you don’t count the husband). As I
hung a bag for the Bread Man on the gate so he could pop my bread delivery in, I spotted
the lanky Jean-Francois in his never-seen-out-of-them blue overalls (except once at the
village harvest party), trimming a hedge down the road.
We exchanged long distance waves.
“Ca va?” he called.
“Ca va!” I shouted back, “Ca va?”
The Good Life
Janine Marsh's life in lock-down France
That started the dogs barking in the back garden and he had to yell his answer “Ca va, ca
va.”
Mon dieu, the first conversation I have had with another human (again not counting the
husband) in real life in goodness knows how long consisted of just 3 letters. Now in case
you think I’m referring to a sparkling wine that’s spelled the same way give or take a space,
I’m not. “Ca va” is the universal general greeting of the French. You might have been taught
at school that “comment allez vous” is what you should say when you meet someone, but
unless you’re in a formal situation or rendezvous-ing with the President or Prince Albert of
Monaco, say that as a greeting to your mates and you will be greeted with a look of
astonishment.
In fact, the French I speak with my neighbours is nothing like the French I was taught at
school. All manner of words come up that fill me with astonishment like “bof” which is how
you reply to “ca va” if you’re only so-so, instead of saying you’re well which requires you to
reply “ca va”. And my French teacher, a sophisticated Parisienne, never prepared a youthful
me for living in the far north of France where they speak with such a strong accent that even
the rest of France can hardly understand the locals.
But gradually I’m getting this French language malarkey and can hold a conversation quite
well. At first it was like a game of tennis, I could volley a word in but couldn’t really hold an
extended rally of conversation. These days, after a lot of practice, I can score break points
by throwing in some “real French”, there’s always a way to fit “toho-bohu” (confusion) or
“Hurluberlu” (eccentric) or “ah, la vache” (which although it literally translates as “oh my
cow” means “oh my god”) into a conversation.
I still make mistakes though. I once announced to a bus load of Frenchies “je suis chaud”. It
was a sweltering hot day, I thought I was saying “I am hot”. Non. It’s a rookie error and to
Frenchies it means “I am hot” - as in 9 1⁄2 Weeks the erotic film. Napoleon Bonaparte once
said “Du sublime au ridicule, il n’y a qu’un pas’ – “From the sublime to the ridiculous there is
but one step…” and so it is!