Issue No. 25
In this issue, visit France from home - Gascony, and Provence, fabulous day trips from Paris, captivating Toulouse and charming Northern France. Recipes, guides and a whole heap more to entertain and inspire...
In this issue, visit France from home - Gascony, and Provence, fabulous day trips from Paris, captivating Toulouse and charming Northern France. Recipes, guides and a whole heap more to entertain and inspire...
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In these difficult days of no travel and self-isolation around the world, we can still<br />
dream.<br />
I hope that this issue makes you smile and whisks you away through its pages to<br />
France and that you find it’s a treat to read and inspires your dreams for the days<br />
when we can travel again.<br />
Meanwhile on our social media pages we’re staying connected, sharing a daily dose of<br />
France, inspiring dreams of France and hopefully one day soon, your resumed travels,<br />
join us on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram.<br />
Enjoy this issue with my compliments and feel free to share it with friends – it is<br />
completely free to subscribe, read online, download and it always will be.<br />
Wishing you and yours truly well,
contents<br />
Features<br />
8 Gascony – God’s Country<br />
<strong>No</strong>t well known outside of France, the Gers,<br />
Gascony is an intoxicating land, real France,<br />
authentic and delicious.…<br />
22 Road trip northern France<br />
The Hauts-de-France region reveals a wealth<br />
of culture, beautiful beaches, historic cities<br />
and glorious countryside...<br />
34 20 Brilliant day trips from Paris<br />
Chateaux, cities, village visits, cultural towns<br />
and beautiful churches, all so close to Paris<br />
you can get there and back in a day…<br />
56 The natural wonder of Amiens<br />
The capital of Picardy is the “Venice of the<br />
north” and a hugely surprising city...<br />
66 Colourful, cultural & captivating<br />
Toulouse<br />
Discover the museums and secret streets of<br />
the pink city…<br />
74 Fabulous French Float-el<br />
Floating down the Rhone River on a French<br />
cruise hotel makes for a brilliant break…
Features continued<br />
80 Lille a Feast for the Senses<br />
The perfect pairings of food and art in the<br />
city of culture<br />
88 La Chartreuse de Neuville<br />
A monumental hidden gem of a<br />
charterhouse in northern France<br />
94 Oppède the lush, exotic village<br />
of Provence<br />
This rather hidden beauty of Provence is<br />
delightfully quirky…<br />
Regular<br />
100 Your Photos<br />
The most popular photos on our Facebook<br />
page.<br />
120 My Good Life in France<br />
In which the rural countryside becomes a<br />
land of party animals...<br />
Expert Advice<br />
102 Discover the <strong>No</strong>rthern Riviera<br />
<strong>No</strong>t the French riviera with its pricey<br />
properties but a northern version that’s well<br />
worth a look…<br />
106 Top tips for your move to<br />
France<br />
Top tips for those looking forward to move<br />
to France.
110 Expert’s guide to French<br />
Mortgages<br />
Everything you need to know about<br />
mortgages in France.<br />
Recipes<br />
114 Pissaladière<br />
Classic French onion tart that's so moreish<br />
it's wicked!<br />
116 Cheese soufflé<br />
How to make a perfect cheese soufflé that<br />
will impress everyone!<br />
118 Gascon apple pie<br />
Easy to make but utterly unforgettably<br />
delicious!
Gascony<br />
“God’s Country…”<br />
Janine Marsh takes to the road in Gascony and discovers<br />
some of its charms – from medieval villages, quirky<br />
museums and the most intoxicating gastronomy…
The Gers<br />
The Gers, or Gascony some call it, is one of<br />
the most rural regions in all of France. You’ll<br />
find it in southwest France, just west of<br />
Toulouse but a world apart from the buzzing,<br />
colourful metropolis.<br />
A <strong>25</strong> minute drive from Toulouse airport will<br />
bring you to L’Isle Jordain, a great little town<br />
on the edge of a region that on a map looks<br />
decidedly green. There are no big cities here.<br />
<strong>No</strong> high speed rail services either, though<br />
you can take the train from Toulouse to<br />
Auch, the capital of Gers.<br />
There are no motorways in Gers. <strong>No</strong>t one.<br />
And there’s no mass tourism.<br />
The Gers is the real France you thought<br />
didn’t exist anymore. Bucolic, beautiful and<br />
bubbling with bonhomie.
Road trip Gers<br />
In the Gers, it’s easy to feel like you’ve<br />
stepped back in time to a gentler place. You<br />
won’t come across coach loads of tourists<br />
and you won’t find traffic jams. What you<br />
will find are roads which take you through<br />
sweeping panoramas, undulating fields of<br />
sunflowers, corn and rapeseed. Vineyards<br />
lazing under the sun alongside lush grazing<br />
pastures dotted with wildflowers.<br />
Hedgerows of hawthorne, broom and<br />
honeysuckle hug fields and forests. Pretty<br />
villages are seemingly on every corner, and<br />
bars are full of friendly folk, happy to share<br />
their little corner of paradise.<br />
Though the Gers is not France’s most<br />
sparsely populated district (Lozère if you<br />
want to know), it is the most agricultural,<br />
with more of its land under cultivation than<br />
that of any other French district. Humans in<br />
the Gers are hugely outnumbered by<br />
livestock, especially ducks, apparently 28:1.<br />
Ask any local will tell you that what’s<br />
important to people in the Gers is family,<br />
friendship and good food. And they really<br />
mean it.<br />
It’s a brilliant place for a road trip whether<br />
you’re driving or cycling around the Gers.<br />
And you’ll need your own wheels, because<br />
there’s not a lot of public transport.<br />
L’Isle Jordain - bells, books and a<br />
bubbly market town<br />
I started my Gascon jaunt in L’Isle Jordain,<br />
journeying by train via Paris to Toulouse (4<br />
hours) where I met my friend Lucy who’d just<br />
flown in from the UK (2 hours). It was Friday<br />
night and, as we booked into the charming<br />
L’Echappée Belle Hotel, the concierge<br />
warned us to move our car to the free car<br />
park on the corner rather than leave it in<br />
front of the hotel. Next day was market day<br />
and there would be a stall selling vegetables<br />
where we had parked.
Back in the hotel restaurant, feeling<br />
reassured our hire car wouldn’t be used to<br />
display cabbages, the server tempted us to a<br />
Pousse Rapière cocktail – my first<br />
introduction to Armagnac, the famous<br />
liqueur of Gascony. One part Armagnac à<br />
l’Orange to 6 parts sparkling wine: it’s<br />
heaven in a glass and so moreish I feel bad<br />
telling you about it. The food at the<br />
restaurant is superb (chef Thierry Lair is<br />
superb), if I lived in this town, you wouldn’t<br />
be able to keep me out of here!<br />
the most French, authentic and delicious<br />
market you can ever imagine. Stall after stall<br />
of local produce, odd shaped vegetables,<br />
fresh baked bread, artisanal beers, cheeses<br />
and… Pastis Gascon, an apple tart which<br />
makes your taste buds sing. Don’t take my<br />
word for it, there’s a recipe on page 118.<br />
Seriously, seriously sensational.<br />
Early next morning after a good night's sleep<br />
we wandered a few minutes out of the town<br />
to discover lakes right on the doorstep that<br />
were teeming with birds. As the sun broke<br />
through the early morning mist and a<br />
symphony of bird song filled the air, it felt<br />
like the land that time forgot.<br />
The old pilgrim route from Bordeaux to<br />
Jerusalem and the river Save wander<br />
through this 13th century bastide. There’s a<br />
classic church which has a 15th century<br />
clocktower and the remains of two arcaded<br />
markets. The market at L’Isle Jordain is like
Maison Claude Augé<br />
Claude Augé (1854 - 1924), was the<br />
director of Larousse encyclopaedias and<br />
educational books and he had a holiday<br />
home in the town. Preserved just as it was<br />
in his day, this beautiful building has<br />
wonderful stained glass windows and is<br />
filled with Larousse memorabilia - books,<br />
encyclopaedias, post cards and photos.<br />
Musée Campanaire<br />
From the first floor terraced windows of<br />
Maison Claude Augé, you look onto the<br />
Musée Campanaire, a unique museum<br />
dedicated to all things bell. There are huge<br />
bells from churches, Indonesian temple<br />
bells, Japanese, Roman, and Russian bells.<br />
But you don’t just look here, you play. It<br />
doesn’t matter if you’re not a trained bell<br />
ringer, and frankly I’m not sure they get that<br />
many in judging from what I heard when I<br />
was there. The staff are happy for you to<br />
practise with special bell hammers and even<br />
a bell pulley system like an organ of the<br />
type you find in churches and cathedrals.<br />
It’s certainly different but utterly<br />
fascinating.<br />
Our next stop was Auch…
Auch<br />
Auch, the capital city of the Gers, was the<br />
birthplace of the musketeer D’Artagnan,<br />
made famous by Alexander Dumas in The<br />
Three Musketeers, immortalised on film and<br />
still a symbol of loyalty, military prowess and<br />
honour. You’ll find his statue on the Grand<br />
Escaliers, the monumental limestone staircase<br />
which links the lower and upper towns.<br />
At the top of the stairs is the Cathedral of<br />
<strong>No</strong>tre-Dame. On the Route of St James, it<br />
was the last stop before the Pyrénées for<br />
pilgrims on their way to Spain.<br />
Building began in the Gothic style in 1489<br />
and continued until 1678 by which time<br />
more of a Renaissance style took over. The<br />
stained glass windows created in the 1500s<br />
are extraordinary. Designed by Arnaut de<br />
Moles (born around 1465), these are not your<br />
average religious windows but feature<br />
unusual topics such as the Greek Sybilles who<br />
are shown presenting the coming of Christ –<br />
and even more unusually there are naked<br />
bodies galore. The colours are pure and fresh,<br />
vibrant as the day they were made with glass<br />
from Paris, transported by horse and cart,<br />
each pane of glass sealed in wax to prevent<br />
breakage.<br />
Unusually there are two organs in the<br />
cathedral, the original enormous organ was<br />
built in 1694. A smaller organ takes centre<br />
stage. Donated by Napoleon III as thanks for<br />
the Archbishop being his wife’s confessor in<br />
Paris. The locals say it’s hard to say no to the<br />
gift of an emperor even though they prefer<br />
the original.
Top right: 14th century Armagnac Tower, above:<br />
Auch Cathedral, right: statue of D'Artagnan,<br />
Grand Escaliers<br />
Never finished, there are no saints on the<br />
facade of the church, but head into the choir<br />
for a sight you’re unlikely to see in any other<br />
church. The originally reserved for religious<br />
members only room full of carved wooden<br />
images features amongst the many saints,<br />
some rather nubile young women, a man<br />
with a bare bottom and other rather worldly<br />
sights. It was, says our guide, “because the<br />
monks who worked here, wanted to keep it<br />
real, to understand their flock, not idealise<br />
life but accept it for what it was...” It is an<br />
incredible piece of work and worth the<br />
couple of euros entry fee to see it.<br />
It's a pleasant city to wander, plenty of<br />
shops, bars and restaurants and winding little<br />
streets with quirky old houses.
Armagnac<br />
There are three growing areas of<br />
Armagnac: Bas Armagnac,<br />
Armagnac Tenareze and Haut-<br />
Armagnac. Together they form<br />
15,000 hectares of vines, originally<br />
planted by the Romans, from which<br />
wine, white, red and rosé and Floc<br />
de Gascogne (a fortified wine and<br />
popular aperitif) are grown and of<br />
which 42,00 hectares are used for<br />
the exclusive production of<br />
Armagnac.<br />
Armagnac is the oldest French eaude-vie<br />
and is at least 700 years old,<br />
possibly going back as far as the<br />
10th century. It was mentioned in<br />
records dated 1310 when a priest in<br />
Eauze, the capital of Bas Armagnac,<br />
praised Armagnac saying it was<br />
good “to keep your heath and stay<br />
on top form.” Mind you, he also<br />
listed a whole heap of its virtues<br />
including that the fumes of<br />
Armagnac could kill serpents, it<br />
cured colic and tooth ache.<br />
There are different types of<br />
Armagnac. Like Cognac, there’s VS<br />
(Very Superior), VSOP (Very<br />
Superior Old Pale), Hors d’Age<br />
Armagnac which is a minimum of ten<br />
years old but often much older, XO<br />
(Extra Old) a minimum of ten years<br />
old and Blanche Armagnac, which is<br />
a young white spirit and quite new to<br />
the market (since 2005).<br />
Unlike Cognac (twice distilled),<br />
Armagnac (once distilled) production<br />
isn’t big industry - it’s all small<br />
houses. Families and artisans<br />
producing their own unique blend.<br />
We headed to Chateau Millet on the<br />
outskirts of Eauze to find out more<br />
with a tour and what’s known as an<br />
Alambic Dinner.
Alambic Dinner<br />
Each year, some Armagnac makers open<br />
their cellars and invite the public in to<br />
witness the distillation, taste the young<br />
Armagnac, join in the fun and enjoy<br />
fabulous food and wine.<br />
The distillation process starts with the<br />
heating of the grape juice in a continuous<br />
still known as an alembic armagnaçaise.<br />
The stills are mobile devices, roaming<br />
around the countryside, stopping off at<br />
domaines and operated by an expert who<br />
works the magic through the night. Many of<br />
the smaller batches made by these talented<br />
producers never get seen outside the area –<br />
and that’s another good reason to visit!<br />
We joined the Chateau de Millet alembic<br />
dinner on the first Saturday in December.<br />
Driving down tiny country lanes under a<br />
frosty, star filled night was an adventure in<br />
itself. We entered the room, heated by the<br />
alambic still on wheels, it’s flames fanned by<br />
old vine wood. A live band played, everyone<br />
was invited to taste the new Armagnac<br />
straight from the still (takes your breath<br />
away I can tell you) and the food was<br />
amazing and the Chateau de Millet wines<br />
superb. It was an uplifting, fun and utterly<br />
delicious affair and I’d go back to Gascony<br />
just to be a part of this amazing event again.<br />
If you’d like to know more about Armagnac<br />
and join a dinner French Country<br />
Adventures will run a unique tour in<br />
<strong>No</strong>vember, details here: Armagnac Tours
Lavardens<br />
Built around a feudal castle<br />
and church, this little village<br />
on a rocky outcrop has<br />
oodles of charm. Go in July<br />
& August for the fabulously<br />
festive night markets.<br />
Fourcès<br />
With medieval arcades,<br />
beautiful walkways, quirky<br />
shops and several<br />
restaurants, it’s a fabulous<br />
place to while away a few<br />
hours admiring its beauty.<br />
Larressingle<br />
AKA the "little<br />
Carcassonne", this is the<br />
smallest fortified village in<br />
France. Step through the<br />
gate to the tiny walled town<br />
and you'll feel like you've<br />
stepped into the past.<br />
Montréal<br />
This fortified bastide town<br />
has a beautiful central<br />
square, arcaded walkways<br />
and beautiful medieval<br />
houses.<br />
La Romieu<br />
Taking its name from the<br />
Gascon "Roumiou", which<br />
means "pilgrim", the village<br />
was founded at the end of<br />
the 11th century<br />
Sarrant<br />
Enter the 14th century gate<br />
to discover a village of<br />
pretty half-timbered houses<br />
wrapped around the 13th<br />
century Saint-Vincent<br />
church
A land of officially beautiful villages<br />
There are no less than 6 Plus Beaux Villages<br />
in this 60-mile wide department. It’s not big,<br />
but it is incredibly beautiful, peppered with<br />
perfectly preserved and pristine medieval<br />
towns including lovely Larressingle. It’s the<br />
smallest fortified village in France. With a<br />
circumference of just 270m it’s nicknamed<br />
the “little Carcassonne”. And Fources, a<br />
stunning medieval town with the only round<br />
square in France.<br />
Read more about Larressingle here and<br />
Fources here.<br />
And there are castles galore. We visited the<br />
Chateau de Lavardens, in Lavardens, another<br />
Plus Beaux Village, which we spied from the<br />
bottom of a hill. It was like a magical mirage,<br />
mellow stone and terracotta-roofed, ageless<br />
beauty teetering high above us. It originally<br />
Larressingle<br />
belonged to the counts of Armagnac and was<br />
built in the 12th century and updated in the<br />
17th century. The stunning rooms have<br />
wonderful tiled floors and stone walls, grand<br />
fireplaces and magnificent views over the<br />
surrounding countryside. There are regular<br />
temporary exhibitions including at Christmas<br />
a massive santons display – little figurines<br />
that the French just love ranging from Saints<br />
to celebrities. We popped to the Cistercian<br />
Abbaye de Flaran nearby with its gorgeous<br />
14th century cloisters, now a cultural centre<br />
with an impressive calligraphy collection.<br />
And if you go here, you must leave time to<br />
visit the restaurant at the Ferme de Flaran<br />
next door, the most delicious food and<br />
friendly staff, they don’t just serve you food<br />
here, they really care. Our server got upset<br />
when I didn’t eat absolutely everything on<br />
the plate but honestly, it was a big lunch and<br />
I needed to leave room for the dessert!
The gastronomy of Gascony<br />
Food is a big part of what makes a visit to<br />
the Gers so special with specialities including<br />
foie gras, duck dishes, that seriously<br />
delicious apple pie that’s specific to the<br />
region which I mentioned earlier, Armagnac<br />
and wines.<br />
Weekly village markets are a wonderful<br />
introduction to the gastronomy of the area.<br />
Try the Thursday morning market at Éauze<br />
or the lovely covered market in Mirande on<br />
Monday mornings, which is equally lively.<br />
But the big one is at Samatan. I’m not sure<br />
you’ll ever find another market where one<br />
minute a nun is telling you how delicious her<br />
honey is and making clicking noises with her<br />
tongue to emphasise it’s special qualities and<br />
the next minute you’re caught up in a<br />
massive crowd waiting for a whistle to blow<br />
which is the signal to run through the doors<br />
of an enormous building to buy from local<br />
producers selling duck and geese at the<br />
carcasses market. It’s not for the fainthearted<br />
but it’s authentic and it’s the way<br />
things have been done here for years. The<br />
market opened in 1373.<br />
The town also has a quirky foie gras<br />
museum, only for those who are true fans as<br />
there are stuffed animals on show.<br />
Samatan tourism: tourism-saves.com<br />
There are bistros, cafés and restaurants in<br />
every town and farmhouse restaurants<br />
dotted throughout the countryside.<br />
When you go to the Gers, prepare to be<br />
surprised, to be irresistibly tempted by the<br />
gastronomy, fed and watered like royals and<br />
to fall head over heels for this secret and<br />
totally enchanting part of France which the<br />
locals call God’s country…
Practical info<br />
How to get there: From Toulouse where<br />
there is an airport and TGV station for fast<br />
trains to Paris (from 5.5 hours), it’s just an<br />
hour-and-a-half drive to Auch, the region’s<br />
main city. Auch has a well-staffed tourism<br />
office (3, place de la République; en.auchtourisme.com)<br />
that sells “TopoGuides” to<br />
the Gers.<br />
Where to stay: Chateau Bellevue in Cazubon,<br />
close to Eauze, will have you feeling rather<br />
regal. Beautifully decorated rooms which<br />
shuttered windows overlooking a stunning<br />
park and countryside. www.<br />
chateaubellevue.org<br />
In Auch, the Hôtel de France<br />
(hoteldefrance-auch.com) offers a range of<br />
reasonably priced rooms. It’s undergoing a<br />
renovation programme and my room was<br />
lovely but some do need updating still. Its<br />
informal restaurant has a small terrace<br />
overlooking Auch’s main square and serves<br />
many of the region’s greatest hits cooked by<br />
the owner’s chef father. The hotel also has a<br />
grande salle, where fancier (and much<br />
pricier) dishes are served. Chef Vincent<br />
Cassasus is renowned for being one of the<br />
best in the region<br />
The stylish L’Echappee Belle Hotel in L’Isle<br />
Jourdain has a sleeker, more updated feel,<br />
and a superb restaurant serving a lighter<br />
version of Gascon and traditional French<br />
dishes.<br />
Take a detour with French Country<br />
Adventures: Tours from half day, full day or<br />
several days offering a huge range of topics<br />
that will really allow you to experience the<br />
best of Gers. From Armagnac tours to<br />
watercolour workshops, pastry classes,<br />
antiquing and more:<br />
Tourist Office website:<br />
www.tourisme-gers.com/
Born to be wild<br />
When I was offered the chance to discover<br />
the Hauts-de-France region on two sturdy<br />
wheels, I couldn’t resist the thrill. A Harley<br />
Davison ad once read “God didn’t create<br />
metal so that man could make paper clips!”<br />
The Harley Davidson 2019 Ultra Limited is a<br />
big bike. Very big. And I am small. So, we<br />
agreed, my husband Mark and me – he<br />
would do the driving (my feet didn’t reach<br />
the pedals), while I would sit back in the<br />
comfy armchair style seat and enjoy the<br />
ride…<br />
We started our journey at Dover on a P&O<br />
ferry. As soon as we parked the bike on the<br />
deck, other Harley-Davidson riders engaged<br />
in parking, came over to look, comment and<br />
treat us like mates. Biking is like that. They<br />
were on their way to a party in Holland,<br />
meeting up with other Harley fans from<br />
around Europe.<br />
“Did we want to join them?” they asked.<br />
Tempting though it was, we chose to keep to<br />
our itinerary, riding around the region,<br />
discovering truly beautiful sites, glorious<br />
countryside, quaffing Champagne in a little<br />
known part of Picardy which produces a<br />
whopping 10% of all the fizz produced in<br />
France, sampling a legendary dish in a castle<br />
and enjoying some of the finest food<br />
possible. Can you blame us?<br />
Bikers say, “Life is not about waiting for the<br />
storms to pass: it’s about learning how to<br />
ride in the rain!” and I honestly thought, this<br />
is the far north of France - it rains a lot here,<br />
we’ve got some learning to do. In fact, in<br />
eight days of travel in mid-September – it<br />
didn’t rain a single drop and we only saw<br />
clouds once…
Have wheels – will travel...<br />
Pas de Calais: The Opal Coast and the<br />
Route 66 of northern France<br />
Alighting from the ferry, we whizzed straight<br />
onto the coastal road which takes you right<br />
around the Opal Coast. It starts at the<br />
border with Belgium and runs to the border<br />
with <strong>No</strong>rmandy. We joined it just outside<br />
Calais…<br />
The sky was blue, the English Channel was<br />
the colour of the Mediterranean Sea, a soft<br />
sort of turquoise, and the air was scented<br />
with apples from orchards lining the country<br />
roads as we drifted off the main coastal<br />
route and into the beautiful countryside to<br />
hunt down a patisserie. <strong>No</strong>thing says France<br />
more than a baguette with a chunk of cheese<br />
followed by a jewel like cake and a glass of<br />
chilled wine. We sat on a blanket<br />
overlooking the English Channel, rabbits<br />
hopping around us, birds swooping above. A<br />
moment of pure pleasure.<br />
The Opal Coast Route<br />
The D940 Opal Coast route is the Route 66<br />
of the north of France. It passes through a<br />
stream of small fishing towns, seaside resorts<br />
and some of the most beautiful scenery in<br />
France. There are miles and miles of<br />
unspoiled and endless sandy beaches, huge<br />
dunes, pine forests and dramatic clifftop<br />
walks offering dizzying views across the<br />
Channel to the White Cliffs of Dover –<br />
clearly visible on a cloudless day. Some parts<br />
of the coast reminded me of the Giant’s<br />
Causeway in Ireland, massive boulders seem<br />
to spill out of the sea and up to the road.<br />
Fishermen sat silent and patient along the<br />
water’s edge with rods and nets. Out to sea<br />
we could see traditional wooden fishing<br />
boats bobbing on the calm water.<br />
We found secret, secluded bays where seals<br />
frolicked. There are monuments and<br />
museums, and the remains of the Atlantic<br />
Wall built as protection against allied
Historic cites, castles & fishing<br />
villages<br />
It doesn't take more than 45 minutes from<br />
Calais to Boulogne-sur-Mer. But, it’s far<br />
better to spend the entire day on this section<br />
of the road. Stop to enjoy a home-cooked<br />
lunch in a friendly, welcoming café and buy<br />
fish fresh from the fishermen who sell direct<br />
from their front rooms and garages in<br />
villages like Audresselles. Wander on the<br />
beach, admire the Napoleonic fort at<br />
Ambleteuse and the Belle Epoque villas at<br />
Wimereux.<br />
This is a part of France that’s hardly known<br />
outside of the region despite being captured<br />
on canvas by J M Turner who loved the ”<br />
opal” quality of light, and Charles Dickens<br />
singing the praises of the area and moving<br />
his family there.<br />
When you do get to Boulogne-sur-Mer, it<br />
too deserves a day of discovery. Head to the<br />
old town, so pretty it looks like a film set.<br />
Don’t miss the incredible decorated crypt of<br />
the Basillica <strong>No</strong>tre-Dame, the rue du Lille,<br />
lined with quirky boutiques and restaurants.<br />
The 13th century Chateau Museum has<br />
includes an Egyptian collection donated by<br />
renowned Egyptologist François Auguste<br />
Ferdinand Mariette, born in the town and the<br />
founder of the Cairo Museum of Egyptology.<br />
Nausicaa, the largest sea aquarium in Europe<br />
and heaps more will definitely fill a day right<br />
up…<br />
From Boulogne, the D940 runs on through<br />
Neufchatel-Hardelot with its neo-<br />
Shakespearian Theatre and Castle with a<br />
cultural centre dedicated to Entente-<br />
Cordiale. And on through charming Etaples,<br />
once a fishing port, neighbour to the swanky<br />
jet set seaside resort of Le Touquet-Paris-<br />
Plage, and several lovely seaside towns
Picardy: Birds, plus beaux villages<br />
and brilliant castles and more…<br />
Close to the border at Saint-Quentin-en-<br />
Tourmont, we pointed the bike towards the<br />
signposts for Parc Marquenterre. I’m not a<br />
twitcher, but I love animals and this nature<br />
reserve on the Bay of the Somme has a<br />
reputation for being really special.<br />
A dusty track ended in a huge car park<br />
where a surprisingly smart and large<br />
restaurant and bar tempted us in. Here in<br />
what feels like the middle of nowhere, they<br />
serve delicious dishes with heirloom<br />
vegetables, the freshest local fish and superb<br />
desserts, fitting fuel for explorers. We joined<br />
our English speaking guide to find out what<br />
the park was all about. 200 hectares of land<br />
covered in marshes, peppered with lakes and<br />
ponds, dunes and reed beds are an absolute<br />
magnet for birds of all types. From a hide, I<br />
spied on storks and herons. Birds tweeted<br />
above and around us. The air is fresh and<br />
unpolluted, you feel as if you have the whole<br />
area to yourself. Marquenterre is<br />
mesmerising, memorable and magical.<br />
From here it’s a short ride to the town of<br />
Saint-Valery-sur-Somme, though you may<br />
have added waiting time if you enter the<br />
town via the route which includes a railway<br />
crossing as we did and watched a steam train<br />
pass majestically by, it’s passengers waving<br />
excitedly. This ancient and extremely<br />
photogenic little town on the Somme Estuary<br />
has absolutely oodles of charm and it’s easy<br />
to spend an entire day here.
Stroll the cobbled streets, wander along the<br />
harbour and the long esplanade to ogle the<br />
mansion houses and discover the colourful<br />
sailors district and you’ll know exactly what<br />
lured the artist Degas and writers Victor<br />
Hugo and Jules Verne to holiday here. Long<br />
before them, Joan of Arc was held captive<br />
here, the dungeon where she is said to have<br />
been imprisoned is still there, a small stone<br />
tower and you can’t help but think how the<br />
poor girl must have felt cooped up in her<br />
claustrophobic prison.<br />
William the Conqueror was here too,<br />
stopping off to collect soldiers before<br />
making history and conquering England in<br />
1066. Standing on the ramparts looking out<br />
to sea in the medieval town I wondered if he<br />
too had stood there, wondering, dreaming,<br />
daring to hope that his ambitious plans to<br />
quell his dastardly enemy across the water<br />
might come true. All that thinking makes you<br />
hungry and luckily this little town is teeming<br />
with cafés, bistros and restaurants.<br />
The stream train is an irresistible lure. It<br />
takes you, on authentic wooden seats, round<br />
the Bay of the Somme, classified as one of<br />
the most beautiful bays in the world. We<br />
spotted wild pigs, deer and all manner of<br />
birds en route. You can take a boat ride out<br />
on the bay where the largest colony of seals<br />
in France live, join a walking or bike tour<br />
(you can rent bikes in the town), or simply sit<br />
back and enjoy the ambiance. Watching the<br />
sun set over the bay, is one of those<br />
unforgettably beautiful moments in life…
You could continue on the D940 all the way<br />
to Le Tréport in <strong>No</strong>rmandy where the road<br />
then becomes the D9<strong>25</strong> and runs around<br />
the coast through Dieppe before reverting<br />
to its original number to reach Le Havre. But<br />
we stayed in Picardy and headed inland to<br />
the city of Amiens where we swapped the<br />
bike for a boat.<br />
Les Hortillonnages is one of the best kept<br />
secrets of France. These watery arteries give<br />
Amiens a unique atmosphere. You really<br />
have a feeling that you are in the most<br />
beautiful countryside right in the centre of a<br />
busy metropolis. The hortillonnages are a<br />
major heritage site - marshland gardens,<br />
cultivated for centuries, created on manmade<br />
islands and on the land which lines the<br />
waterways. In fact the gardens are so old<br />
that no one knows when they began. But,<br />
legend has it that when the city’s Cathedral<br />
was built in the 13th century, it was on a<br />
field of artichokes managed by the gardeners<br />
of the hortillonnages.<br />
All tours are by eco-friendly electric boats<br />
which glide silently across the tranquil<br />
waters. Mark said it made him feel like a kid<br />
again, steering the boat round islands,<br />
stopping off at jetties to look at artworks<br />
dotted around. The only disturbance was the<br />
cooing and calling of birds and the croaking<br />
of frogs, you’d hardly even know you’re in a<br />
city if it wasn’t for the fact that you can see<br />
the spire of the great Gothic cathedral in the<br />
distance.<br />
Amiens is so amazing – it deserves an article<br />
all to itself – see page 56.
Gorgeous Gerberoy<br />
In complete contrast to the metropolis of Amiens, an<br />
hour’s drive on traffic-free roads brought us to<br />
gorgeous Gerberoy close to the border with <strong>No</strong>rmandy.<br />
It’s a “Plus Beau village de France”, one of 159 villages<br />
recognised for their outstanding beauty and charm,<br />
classified as the most beautiful villages in the country.<br />
Cobbled streets covered in roses and hydrangeas,<br />
flowers dripping from every window box, the gardens<br />
of artist Henri Sidaner, a beautiful old church and one<br />
of the most gorgeous restaurants I’ve ever seen, Le<br />
Jardin des Ifs (with a listed Jardin Remarquable), made<br />
this a knockout stop off and an easy half day visit.<br />
What to do in Gerberoy
From here we decided to stop off at the<br />
Chateau de Chantilly where Mark promised<br />
me he’d treat me to some Chantilly cream<br />
for my birthday a week before. What’s a girl<br />
to do? Fling the diet plans out of the<br />
window and dig straight in of course! In the<br />
gorgeous gardens of this fairy tale castle is a<br />
hamlet that was allegedly the inspiration for<br />
Marie-Antoinette’s hamlet. Pretty little halftimbered<br />
buildings and sweet bridges over a<br />
bubbling stream. The restaurant serves great<br />
lunches including strawberries and Chantilly<br />
cream, which was whipped at our table,<br />
right in front of our eyes, which were not<br />
bigger than our bellies, we both managed to<br />
get through a very large dollop of utterly<br />
seductive cream.<br />
Read more about Chantilly castle and its<br />
amazing stables here.<br />
My birthday surprise didn’t end there, we<br />
took a detour to the area of Chateau Thierry<br />
on the Champagne border. I’d never heard of<br />
it before and was amazed to discover that<br />
more than 10% of all the Champagne made,<br />
is actually produced from vines in this part<br />
of Picardy! I have to tell you, if you’re a fan<br />
of the fizz like me, it’ll make you<br />
effervescent with happiness to go here and<br />
enjoy a fabulous tasting at several<br />
Champagne Houses (yes, we squeezed a<br />
couple of bottles into the bike boxes). We<br />
headed off under a sky that looked like a<br />
black velvet bag full of twinkling diamonds<br />
to find our hotel for the night.<br />
It was time to cross the border into Lille but<br />
first we stopped off at Thiepval Memorial. It<br />
was one of the most emotional memorials<br />
I’ve been to, not just because of the 72,000<br />
names etched into the white walls, or the<br />
row upon row of crosses.
Road trip to northern France film... We were<br />
followed by a film crew!<br />
The guides who work here offer free tours<br />
and they share anecdotes and stories of<br />
those whose names are forever remembered.<br />
As the guide told me about a man whose<br />
bravery at trying to save the lives of his<br />
comrades ended in his own death, I looked<br />
up on the wall and saw those names so<br />
familiar to us all, Davis, Smith, Roberts – and<br />
Cedric Dickens, great-grandson of Charles<br />
Dickens who’d loved the north of France so<br />
much. The absolute tragedy of the sacrifices<br />
made, the terrible losses, completely<br />
overwhelmed me and I burst into tears and<br />
thought how very grateful I am for all that I<br />
have.<br />
inn. We went to a microbrewery and Mark<br />
fell in love with a beer called YuZu. We<br />
visited museums and art galleries and fell<br />
under the spell of this vibrant city that’s<br />
crammed with cultural highlights and full of<br />
friendly folk, so that we could hardly bear to<br />
leave.<br />
And like, Amiens, this city gets an article to<br />
itself – see page 80.<br />
<strong>No</strong>rd: Bucket loads of culture and<br />
fabulous markets…<br />
Photo: Lauren Ghesquiere, OT Lille<br />
Parking the bike up in a street right near the<br />
centre of Lille, the capital of Hauts-de-<br />
France, we strolled down cobbled streets<br />
under colourful bunting, past boulangeries<br />
and cake shops where people waited<br />
patiently in queues – a small price to pay for<br />
the lushest of dishes. We dined at an<br />
authentic estaminet, the Flemish word for an
Our last stop was Saint Omer, around half<br />
an hour from Calais and a quintessential<br />
French market town that has a massive<br />
historic footprint. Thomas a Becket AKA<br />
Saint Thomas Becket took refuge from<br />
Henry II of England in there in 1165.<br />
Centuries later, three of America’s Founding<br />
Fathers, Daniel, Charles and John Carroll,<br />
studied at the Jesuit Chapel.<br />
But we were there for the Saturday morning<br />
market. A riot of colour and scents and<br />
sounds fill the cobbled square in front of the<br />
neo-classic town hall as stalls are piled high<br />
with produce, vegetables grown on the local<br />
marshes and farms or by green-fingered<br />
locals. This is one of the most authentic and<br />
friendly markets I’ve been to. And when<br />
you’re done, pop to the town library and<br />
head to the old part of the building where<br />
books go back to the 7th century and a First<br />
Folio of Shakespeare’s plays was recently<br />
discovered on its heaving shelves. And stop<br />
to enjoy a local beer and Flemish dish at any<br />
number of cafés and watch the world go<br />
by….<br />
This region is a land of contrast, sea and<br />
country, history and culture, arts and crafts<br />
and gastronomy. Whether you stay for a<br />
weekend or a week, there’s so much to<br />
discover that one trip is never enough….<br />
Get my free road trip guide to the Hauts-de-<br />
France here – lots of tips for restaurants and<br />
things to do in and around the areas<br />
mentioned…
“Paris isn’t France” say the French who aren’t Parisians. They’re right of course even<br />
though Paris is one of the world’s best loved cities with some 16 million visitors a<br />
year. Who can resist the legendary Eiffel Tower, the endless galleries of the Louvre,<br />
the sight of the Arc de Triomphe, the authentic cafés and walks by the Seine?<br />
However, as they say, there is more to France than Paris so, if you’re in the city and<br />
fancy a seeing another side of France, here’s a list of incredible spots you can visit in<br />
a day, without a car, and still be back in time for dinner says Janine Marsh
4 City Visits<br />
Strasbourg, Alsace<br />
At around 1 hour 50 minutes by TGV<br />
train from Gare de l’Est, the beautiful<br />
town of Strasbourg in Alsace is a<br />
fabulous day trip.<br />
Must-sees including a magnificent<br />
Gothic cathedral, it’s one of the most<br />
beautiful in France, a fairy-tale like<br />
town centre, and a network of canals<br />
which are perfect for a relaxing boat<br />
ride. There are heaps of museums,<br />
fabulous restaurants and superb wine<br />
bars where you can indulge in a glass of<br />
local Riesling or Gewurztraminer before<br />
you catch the train back to Paris. And, a<br />
year-round Christmas shop for a<br />
memorable souvenir even if you’re not<br />
there for the famous Christmas<br />
markets. Honestly, one day is not<br />
enough for this unmissable city…<br />
More on Strasbourg:<br />
Best things to do in Strasbourg<br />
Where to eat out in Strasbourg
Reims, Champagne<br />
45 minutes by train from Gare de l’Est lies<br />
Reims, the capital of Champagne. From the<br />
station you can walk to some of the best<br />
Champagne houses including Mumm (15-<br />
minute walk), and Charles de Cazanove (5<br />
minutes) for a tour and tasting. On the<br />
outskirts of town, Ruinart is the favourite<br />
Champagne of the French and oldest<br />
Champagne house in the world, but you’ll<br />
need to take bus no. 3 from the station and<br />
walk 5 minutes from the Crayeres stop (total<br />
20 mins – it’s worth it!).<br />
There are also loads of little boutique<br />
Champagne bars including the fabulous Pol<br />
Couronne, where you can taste and buy<br />
affordable vintage Champagnes from the<br />
family-run company.<br />
“The city of coronations” or “the city of<br />
Kings” as it’s known, houses the great<br />
UNESCO-listed cathedral <strong>No</strong>tre-Dame de<br />
Reims, where French kings were crowed for<br />
1000 years.<br />
More on Reims:<br />
Visit Champagne vineyards and villages by<br />
train from Reims<br />
Epernay is each to reach by train from Reims
Bordeaux, New Aquitaine<br />
Bordeaux is now just 2 hours from<br />
Paris by fast TGV despite the 300 mile<br />
distance. From Bordeaux St Jean<br />
Station, then hop on a tram to the city<br />
centre to discover the wonderful<br />
UNESCO listed architecture of the<br />
“Pearl of Aquitaine” as the city is<br />
known. Visit a unique wine museum,<br />
splash in the Miroir d’Eau water<br />
sculpture and soak up the ambiance of<br />
sunny Bordeaux with a glass of<br />
regional wine. Ancient churches, Place<br />
de la Comédie, fabulous museums,<br />
foodie heaven and divine wine bars...<br />
More on Bordeaux:<br />
10 great things to do in Bordeaux<br />
Where to eat out in Bordeaux
4 City Visits<br />
Dijon, Burgundy<br />
If you love cities filled with beautiful,<br />
historic buildings. If you love fantastic<br />
food and wonderful wines. And if you<br />
love museums, galleries, sitting at<br />
terraced cafés watching the world go<br />
by as you sip a delicious local wine,<br />
impossibly fabulous street markets,<br />
great wine bars and a vibrant friendly<br />
vibe, then add Dijon to your must-see<br />
list.<br />
This amazing city has all these things by<br />
the bucket load… and more.<br />
At just over an hour and a half from<br />
Paris Gare de Lyon, Dijon train station<br />
is in the city centre and totally<br />
walkable.<br />
More on Dijon:<br />
What to see and do in Dijon
4 Chateau Visits<br />
Versailles, Ile de France<br />
Versailles is France’s most famous palace<br />
and it really does live up to the hype. It’s an<br />
easy 40-minute train ride from Paris (there<br />
are two stations in Versailles, the closest to<br />
the Palace is Versailles Rive Gauche). Be<br />
warned, the palace is huge, you’ll need an<br />
entire day here (I once spent 3 days there<br />
and still didn’t see it all). Sumptuous,<br />
ridiculously opulent, breath-taking for its<br />
history and beauty, the castle is packed<br />
with wow factor. The gardens are equally<br />
gorgeous. Book tickets online before you<br />
go and try to go as early as possible to<br />
avoid the queues to get in. There are<br />
restaurants on site but the gardens are<br />
fabulous for a picnic and there are plenty of<br />
restaurants in the town which is also well<br />
worth a visit.<br />
More on Versailles:<br />
Versailles chateau guide<br />
10 things to do in Versailles
Chantilly, Picardy<br />
The Chateau de Chantilly, in Picardy, is<br />
one of the most beautiful Renaissance<br />
castles in France and very easy to reach<br />
from Paris. Take a 23 minute TER train<br />
ride from Gare du <strong>No</strong>rd, then take the<br />
free shuttle bus or take the 30 minute<br />
walk if you fancy seeing the pretty town<br />
en route. Enjoy the opulent interior, an<br />
incredible art collection, stunning horse<br />
show, the gorgeous gardens with a<br />
beautiful hamlet which inspired Marie-<br />
Antoinette. And, not to be missed in the<br />
chateau restaurant - dessert with<br />
famous Chantilly cream.
Photo Béatrice Lécuyer-Bibal<br />
Vaux-le-Vicomte, Seine-et-Marne<br />
In the TV series Versailles, it was the<br />
chateau of Vaux-le-Vicomte which was<br />
featured, not the chateau of Versailles.<br />
Vaux-le-Vicomte has a more authentic<br />
interior for the days of Louis XIV. Far less<br />
crowded, elegant and exquisitely beautiful,<br />
Vaux le Vicomte was the inspiration for the<br />
Palace of Versailles and made Louis XIV<br />
mad with jealousy when he saw it. Stunning<br />
gardens and interior make this a must-see<br />
chateau. From Paris Gare de l’Est, take the<br />
train to Verneuil l’Etang train station (35<br />
minutes) and hop on the “Châteaubus”<br />
shuttle to to the Château. There’s a lovely<br />
restaurant too.<br />
More on Vaux-le-Vicomte:
4 Chateau Visits<br />
Fontainebleau, Ile de France<br />
UNESCO listed Fontainebleau has a long<br />
and interesting history going back to the<br />
12th century. In the middle of a forest it<br />
was originally a hunting lodge used by the<br />
French Kings. Its gold plated gates and<br />
iconic horseshoe shaped staircase (where<br />
Napoleon stood to announce his<br />
abdication in 1814) immediately alert you<br />
to the fact that this castle is special. The<br />
castle has a rather intimate feel inside<br />
despite the fact that it’s enormous, with<br />
1500 rooms it’s one of the largest in<br />
France, Take the train from Gare de Lyon<br />
to Fontainebleau-Avon, which takes<br />
about 40 minutes, and from there it’s a<br />
bus ride of about 15 minutes (Bus <strong>No</strong>. 1<br />
behind the station).<br />
More on Fontainebleau:<br />
The Chateau de Fontainebleau<br />
Gardens of Fontainebleau
4 Village Visits<br />
Giverny, <strong>No</strong>rmandy<br />
Claude Monet’s house and garden in<br />
Giverny, <strong>No</strong>rmandy certainly leave an<br />
impression. Take the train to Vernon<br />
(nonstop services save time) and then hop<br />
on the shuttle bus outside. 3 hours is<br />
enough to wander through the house<br />
which looks just like Monet has popped out<br />
to do a spot of painting. The gardens are<br />
stunning, a palette of colours, a riot of<br />
plants and an ogle-some lily pond.<br />
Afterwards take a wander through the tiny<br />
but pretty town and visit restaurant Hotel<br />
Baudry where many of Monet’s friends<br />
stayed (don’t miss the atmospheric studio<br />
in the garden). There’s a great museum in<br />
the one street town, several boutiques, a<br />
pretty church where the artist is buried and<br />
plenty of places for a pit stop.<br />
More on Monet's house and garden
Barbizon, Seine-et-Marne<br />
At the edge of the Fontainebleau forest,<br />
around 60km from Paris, Barbizon is<br />
nicknamed the village of the painters,<br />
because of the role it played in the history<br />
of French pre-impressionism. Artists like<br />
Renoir, Sisley and Monet flocked here,<br />
charmed by the picturesque village and<br />
surrounding nature.<br />
A listed Village of Character, today its<br />
postcard pretty streets are home to art<br />
galleries, artisan workshops and the<br />
Museum of the Painters of Barbizon<br />
musee-peintres-barbizon.fr<br />
The village is surrounded by woods and<br />
perfect for a walk to see what inspired so<br />
many artists...<br />
Take the train to Fontainebleau (see page<br />
43) then a taxi or bus 21 to Barbizon.<br />
Painting: Charles-Francois<br />
Daubigny, 1877, Barbizon<br />
school.<br />
Saint-Rémy-lès-Chevreuse, Yvelines<br />
The town of Saint-Rémy-lès-Chevreuse at the<br />
gateway of Paris is pretty, romantic and a real<br />
taste of the countryside. You’ll find the<br />
promenade des petits ponts, a path along a<br />
canal lined with stone houses and old wash<br />
houses. The history of Chevreuse dates back at<br />
least 1,000 years, and there’s a 12th century<br />
castle which is free to explore. And the lvoely<br />
17th century Chateau de Dampierre is a 22<br />
minute cycle from the town. There’s a cheese<br />
farm and several excellent restaurants – an<br />
idyllic place. Take the train from Gare du <strong>No</strong>rd<br />
to Saint-Rémy-lès-Chevreuse which takes<br />
about 50 minutes. From the station you can<br />
rent ebikes and bikes – great to explore the<br />
Rambouillet Forest.<br />
Details: chevreuse-tourisme.com
Provins, Ile de France<br />
Photo: Rod Williams<br />
The UNESCO listed world heritage site of Provins is a medieval gem complete with a grand<br />
castle and winding cobbles streets. It’s also famous for its year-round festivals and events<br />
but this is no Disney town, it feels like you’ve stepped back in time to the middle ages! The<br />
train from Gare de l’Est goes direct to Provins in 1 hour 24 minutes. Details: provins.net
4 Village Visits
4 church Visits<br />
Chartres, Eure-et-Loir<br />
You can reach the town of Chartres,<br />
Center-Val de Loire, from Paris<br />
Montparnasse in one hour (make sure<br />
you take the fast service). Chartres Gothic<br />
UNESCO listed cathedral is one of the<br />
largest in France and dates to the 12th<br />
century with magnificent 13th century<br />
stained glass windows. From April to<br />
October the facade of the Cathedral is<br />
part of the city-wide Son et Lumiere<br />
event.<br />
There’s also a pretty historic centre in the<br />
city with a stained glass museum and lots<br />
of excellent restaurants.<br />
More on Chartres:<br />
Chartres Cathedral<br />
What to see and do in Chartres
Mont Saint-Michel, <strong>No</strong>rmandy<br />
It's a long day trip, but this place is so extraordinary, it's worth it. It's certainly easier (and<br />
often cheaper) to take a bus tour from Paris but you can take the train to Rennes and then a<br />
bus. The extraordinary abbey at the very top of this fairy-tale island is well worth the effort.<br />
Wander the wiggly, winding roads full of boutiques and restaurants, it's touristy for sure but<br />
it really is special. More: How to spend a day trip at Mont Saint-Michel
Bourges, Cher<br />
Just two hours from Paris, Bourges is a<br />
sensational city to visit with a most beautiful<br />
cathedral. It’s not on the Cathedral tourist<br />
route for many visitors but it should be. built<br />
between the late 12th and late 13th<br />
centuries, is one of the great masterpieces<br />
of Gothic art and the 13th century stainedglass<br />
windows are exquisite. The town is full<br />
of half-timbered houses, Roman towers and<br />
there’s even a castle, built by Jacques Coeur,<br />
the man who bankrolled Joan of Arc’s<br />
missions.<br />
Read more about Bourges:<br />
Bourges - what to see and do in the city...
4 Cathedral Visits<br />
Boulogne-sur-Mer, Pas-de-Calais<br />
Boulogne-sur-Mer on the Opal Coast of<br />
Pas-de-Calais doesn’t have a Cathedral but<br />
a Basilica. I live close by but I’m not biased<br />
when I say the Basilica <strong>No</strong>tre Dame is<br />
simply outstanding. Its crypt is the longest<br />
in France, dating back to Roman times and<br />
is astonishingly beautiful with walls<br />
smothered in frescoes and paintings. It's<br />
also home to an incredible collection of<br />
priceless relics including what's said to be<br />
a drop of the blood of Christ. You’ll see a<br />
hint of Rome’s Pantheon and soupcon of<br />
St Paul’s Cathedral in London – but,<br />
amazingly, this church was designed by a<br />
priest with no architectural experience,<br />
and it is magnificent. It's from 2.5 hours<br />
from Paris by train and the old town is<br />
magnificent and worth a visit in it's own<br />
right.<br />
Read more about Boulogne-sur-Mer and<br />
its Basilica here.
4 Cultural Visits<br />
Rouen, <strong>No</strong>rmandy<br />
In the old part of Rouen there are cobbled<br />
streets, there are more than 2000 halftimbered<br />
houses and a Cathedral loved by<br />
Claude Monet the artist.<br />
Don’t miss a wander down the rue du Gros<br />
Horloge to see the 16th century clock.<br />
Foodies might want to follow in Julia Child’s<br />
footsteps – the American cook had her first<br />
French Sole Meuniere in La Couronne which<br />
is also the oldest restaurant in France.<br />
Joan of Arc was executed in Rouen and there<br />
are several tributes to her including a very<br />
modern church. There are several great<br />
museums including the Fine Arts Museum<br />
with an impressive collection of impressionst<br />
paintings, lots of great shops and restaurants.<br />
From an hour and 22 minutes by train from<br />
Paris, Rouen is a top city visit.
Auvers, Picardy<br />
30km north of Paris, the Auberge<br />
Ravoux is the last house that Vincent<br />
Van Gogh lived in before he shot<br />
himself in the chest in the garden and<br />
passed away in the room that he<br />
rented there. Suffering from mental<br />
health issues, he finished several<br />
paintings during his 70 day stay. He<br />
and his brother Theo are buried at tin<br />
the town cemetery close to the<br />
Romanesque Church which Van Gogh<br />
immortalised in his paintings. Follow<br />
the “Vincent” plaques in the pavement<br />
to see the landscapes he captured on<br />
canvas. The train takes around an<br />
hour from Gare du <strong>No</strong>rd or Gare<br />
Saint-Lazare to Auvers (you may need<br />
to change at Pontoise).<br />
View from Van Gogh's room at his<br />
lodgings in Auvers
4 Cultural Visits<br />
Castle of Monte-Cristo, Ile de<br />
France<br />
Alexandre Dumas built himself his<br />
dream home at the height of his glory<br />
in 1844. He had had huge success with<br />
his books the Three Musketeers and<br />
the Count of Monte Cristo and called<br />
his very extravagant home, a castle in<br />
fact, the Chateau de Monte Cristo. His<br />
study was in the neo-gothic style<br />
Chateau d’If next door. Dumas though<br />
was a party animal and instead of<br />
writing more best sellers, he lived it up<br />
and, riddled with debt in a few short<br />
years he had to sell it for much less<br />
than it cost to build and furnish. It’s a<br />
fascinating place to visit, as he called it<br />
“an earthly paradise.” Either take the<br />
Train from Gare Saint-/Lazare or RER<br />
line A to Marly Le Roi, then bus 10 to<br />
Lesamps and a short walk. Details:<br />
chateau-monte-cristo.com<br />
Moret-sur-Loing, Seine-et-Marne<br />
Ile de France<br />
Ranked among the most beautiful<br />
villages in France, Moret-sur-Loing<br />
has oodles of charm. A gem located<br />
in Seine-et-Marne, Moret-sur-Loing<br />
captivated the painter Alfred Sisley,<br />
who captured the medieval charm of<br />
the village in many of his paintings.<br />
Moret-sur-Loing Tourism<br />
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The natural wonder of<br />
Amiens<br />
The city where nature is the star.<br />
Janine Marsh explores the<br />
northern "Venice"...
Amiens, the capital city of Picardy, is one of those places that people tend to leave off their<br />
bucket lists despite it’s age-old history, incredible UNESCO listed Gothic Cathedral and<br />
remarkable “Green Venice” of ancient canals which criss cross the city, an extraordinary<br />
network of watery arteries dotted with hundreds of floating gardens…<br />
Les Hortillonnages<br />
Hortillonnages is not a word you’ll come<br />
across often and possibly not outside of<br />
Amiens. And me telling you that it means<br />
market gardens won’t in any way convey just<br />
how utterly amazing they are. From the<br />
middle ages, the hortillonnages have made<br />
Amiens famous throughout France. 65km of<br />
ancient canals peppered with island gardens<br />
lie in the shadow of the Cathedral right on<br />
the edge of the city.<br />
They go way back in time, probably to the<br />
days of the Romans, but it was in the middle<br />
ages that gardeners started to plant the<br />
floating gardens and grow vegetables. It’s<br />
said that the Cathedral itself was built on a<br />
field once used to grow artichokes, donated<br />
by gardeners in the 13th century to the<br />
church.<br />
A short walk from the city centre along the<br />
river Somme, which flows through the<br />
middle of Amiens, will bring you to the<br />
hortillonnages which you can explore by<br />
guided electric boat along a 3km stretch<br />
(April to October). It’s incredible to find that<br />
one moment you’re in a teeming metropolis<br />
and the next in tranquil waters, dragon flies,<br />
butterflies and birds flitting about, water lilies<br />
bobbing on the water. There are still around<br />
ten professional gardeners growing<br />
vegetables and fruit here. They sell their<br />
produce at the weekly market in the<br />
medieval St Leu district, alongside the river.<br />
Most of the gardens are worked by keen<br />
owners, handed down through families for<br />
generations. The hortilllonnages are an oasis<br />
of wild nature, tamed patches full of flowers,<br />
small boats quirky buildings and beautiful<br />
huts.
Art with a heart<br />
Each year a unique Art & Garden festival<br />
takes place in the hortillonnages – an<br />
outdoor art gallery which spills into the<br />
water and on islands and riverbanks. From<br />
June to October some 50 artworks are<br />
installed on the islands and in the water,<br />
some of them monumental, all of them<br />
extraordinary.<br />
The only way to see them all is by electric<br />
boat and you can take a self-guided tour.<br />
Follow the circuit, all the islands featured in<br />
the festival have pontoons where you can tie<br />
up your boat and then wander freely.<br />
There’s a firm emphasis on sustainability and<br />
our relationship with nature at this festival: a<br />
wall made from recycled drinks cans, a repurposed<br />
phone box in which you can listen<br />
to the sounds of insects and water plants.<br />
This is one of the most unusual and beautiful<br />
garden festivals I’ve ever been to.<br />
Entry is not at the same place as the normal<br />
guided boat tours. Instead make your way to<br />
the Port à Fumier, Camon district where you<br />
can to rent an electric boat for this fabulous<br />
excursion. Expect to spend around two and a<br />
half hours seeing all 50 artworks. There are<br />
parking spaces available and a welcome desk.
Island life<br />
I stayed at a B&B in a cabin called<br />
Ch’Canard, on one of the floating gardens, a<br />
little corner of paradise. Accessible by a tiny<br />
bridge over a ribbon of water, as soon as I<br />
closed the gate, it was like being on a<br />
remote island, far away from the buzz of<br />
normal daily life. In my beautiful 120 year<br />
old, tastefully decorated cabin for two I felt<br />
cossetted and cocooned, the star of my own<br />
Robinson Crusoe story.<br />
In the gorgeous gardens I crossed little<br />
wooden footbridges to explore dozens of<br />
islands all around me, lilies floated on the<br />
calm canals, roses and willows dipped down<br />
to the water’s edge and the air was filled<br />
with the song of frogs and birds. I slept like a<br />
baby and can honestly say, it’s one of the<br />
most unusual and wonderful B&B’s I’ve ever<br />
stayed in. Details: Ch’Canard, Rivery<br />
The biggest Cathedral in France<br />
The first stone of Amiens Cathedral was laid<br />
in the year 1220. It is a masterpiece of<br />
Gothic art, 145metres long and 70 metres<br />
wide at the transept – it is truly monumental<br />
and utterly divine. There are vaulted<br />
doorways, statues of kings, apostles and<br />
saints. 126 pillars support the soaring<br />
vaulted roof, the 16th century wood carved<br />
choir stalls are magnificent, stained glass<br />
windows cast soft light on the ancient walls<br />
and floor. There are gargoyles galore, turrets<br />
and towers and listening to the majestic bells<br />
gives your goose bumps.
You can climb to the top, 307 narrow steps,<br />
for stupendous views over the town. It’s well<br />
worth the effort though probably not for<br />
those with vertigo or claustrophobia.<br />
Look out for the weeping angel, a wonderful<br />
statue which forms part of a 17th century<br />
mausoleum behind the High Altar. It was<br />
featured on a popular postcard sent by<br />
soldiers in the Somme during WWI.<br />
In summer and December, you’ll see Amiens<br />
Cathedral in a different light as the façade is<br />
lit up, an ingenious feat of engineering in<br />
itself. At night the exterior of the cathedral is<br />
smothered in a technicolour light<br />
performance in a show that makes audiences<br />
gasp. This free 50 minute show is an<br />
absolute must-see. State of the art<br />
projection technology creates a truly magical<br />
experience under a night sky.
Water market<br />
At the foot of the Cathedral, the weekly<br />
Saturday morning market along the pretty<br />
Quai Belu in the old district of St Leu with its<br />
higgledy piggledy colourful houses, has a<br />
lovely, festive atmosphere. The market on<br />
the water as it’s known, is where the market<br />
gardeners of the hortillonnages sell their<br />
produce and have done so for centuries.<br />
Almost everything here comes from the<br />
hortillonnages or around the Somme area -<br />
from flowers and vegetables to wild herbs,<br />
cheese, honey, charcuterie and even beer.<br />
Every third Saturday in June, the market<br />
gardeners arrive by traditional flat bottomed<br />
boat to sell their goods at the “Marche sur<br />
l’Eau” (water market). It’s a very colourful<br />
and merry event and the market traders<br />
dress in medieval costume in this homage to<br />
the days of old when market trade was<br />
conducted from boats. It’s a delicious day<br />
out and lots of fun.<br />
Jules Verne’s house<br />
You mustn’t miss a visit to the home of one<br />
of France’s great writers. Jules Verne has<br />
inspired generations for more than 100 years<br />
with his tales of adventure, science and<br />
daring do. He wrote many of his stories right<br />
here in Amiens where he lived for 18 years.<br />
His 19th century mansion has been restored<br />
to look just as it did in the late 1800s when<br />
he filled his rooms with the reference books,<br />
geographical surveys and scientific reports<br />
which inspired his fantastic stories of<br />
journeys to the centre of the earth, the<br />
moon, under the sea and of course, around<br />
the world in 80 days.
Where to eat out<br />
There are plenty of cafés, bistros and fine<br />
restaurants in the city…<br />
The great writer's study looks as if he’s just<br />
popped out. The wood panelled walls have<br />
the patina of history embedded in them and<br />
there’s a fabulous collection of books,<br />
posters and even models – including a flying<br />
machine Verne imagined before aircraft<br />
were even invented. It’s a fascinating visit, a<br />
trip back to the past. I recommend taking<br />
the tour with an audio guide. Details:<br />
maisondejulesverne<br />
Locals love: Le Quai restaurant is hugely<br />
popular with the locals. In its prime position<br />
in Quai Belu overlooking the canal, with the<br />
Cathedral in the background, it’s great for<br />
coffee, a glass of wine or a cocktail, and even<br />
better for lunch or dinner. The staff are<br />
friendly, the menu is terrific with an<br />
emphasis on fresh regional products, classic<br />
French brasserie dishes, delicious salads and<br />
excellent vegetarian options. restaurantlequai.fr/
Riverside lunch: Overlooking the river<br />
Somme, at the entrance to the<br />
hortillonnages, Au Fil de l’Eau restaurant is<br />
lovely inside but even more so outside on a<br />
sunny day. Seated on a terrace that makes<br />
you feel as if you’re in a treehouse, or in a<br />
flower filled garden courtyard, you’ll feel like<br />
you’ve escaped to the country. The menu is<br />
typically French with fresh and seasonal<br />
products and local classics such as Ficelle<br />
Picarde, a savoury pancake topped with a<br />
creamy sauce and utterly delicious. Find<br />
them on Facebook: Restaurant.Bar.Au.Fil.<br />
De.L.Eau/<br />
Wine and dine: Brasserie Jules is an<br />
institution in the city and a family favourite<br />
for Sunday lunch. Paris brasserie style with<br />
gleaming brass and plush red banquettes,<br />
Jules Verne (in a photo) seems to look on<br />
approvingly while artworks depicting scenes<br />
from his tales decorate the walls. The<br />
seafood platters here are legendary, piled<br />
high with the freshest of shellfish, and the<br />
most succulent oysters.<br />
www.brasserie-jules.fr/<br />
Practical information<br />
From Paris, Amiens is a little over an hour by<br />
train, and from Calais by car it’s around an<br />
hour and a half.<br />
The tourist office is next to the Cathedral:<br />
http://www.amiens-tourisme.com/<br />
More info on the region:<br />
visit-somme.com/explore<br />
UK.France.fr<br />
15 things to do in Picardy
Toulouse<br />
Colourful, cultural and<br />
captivating...<br />
Janine Marsh gets under the skin of the "pink<br />
city" to discover its secrets and museums...
France’s 4th largest city has a multi-faceted<br />
personality. It’s famous for being home to<br />
Airbus headquarters, hosts satellite, space<br />
and aerospace industries and has three<br />
major universities.<br />
It’s a sprawling modern city with an ancient<br />
heart at whose centre is the Place du<br />
Capitole where major events and markets<br />
take place, surrounded by architecturally<br />
glorious buildings, restaurants, the town hall<br />
and bars. Around this grand central square<br />
are a web of streets, teeming with life,<br />
brimming with museums, art galleries, shops,<br />
bars, bakeries and bistros.<br />
Cross the river Garonne via the Pont Neuf,<br />
which despite its name is actually the oldest<br />
bridge in the city, and you’ll find the arty,<br />
earthy district Saint-Cyprien, home to major<br />
museums and galleries, residential and nontouristic.<br />
Meanwhile, on the inner city outskirts a new<br />
resident roams the streets, a mythical beast<br />
bought to life – read on to discover more<br />
about the Minotaur of Toulouse…<br />
And there’s a secret part to Toulouse which<br />
visitors rarely discover. A short walk from<br />
the Capitole, but a world away from the busy<br />
centre, are streets filled with beautiful<br />
mansion houses, tiny squares where you’ll<br />
find art and local bars with a friendly<br />
welcome a part of Toulouse with a laid back,<br />
authentic vibe.<br />
Closer to the capital of Spain than the capital<br />
of France, it’s just 60 miles from the Spanish<br />
border, Toulouse has absorbed the laid back<br />
vibe and flavour of its southern neighbour.<br />
Aperitifs come with tapas on the terraces of<br />
sunny cafés and the night life has a distinctly<br />
Latin flavour…
Wander around the city<br />
You can’t go to Toulouse and not visit the<br />
Place du Capitole. The stunning 17th<br />
century neoclassical style façade of the<br />
Capitole building is the equivalent of the<br />
Eiffel Tower in this city. Around this central<br />
area are a series of districts each quite<br />
different from the other and all easy to reach<br />
on foot. Saint-Cyprien on the left bank of the<br />
River Garonne is a bit bohemian, while In the<br />
Tounis district the river Garonette, a branch<br />
of the might Garonne River, has long gone<br />
but its old bridge remains. There’s also Saint-<br />
Georges, Saint-Aubin, Saint-Étienne and the<br />
Carmes districts. Pick up a map from the<br />
tourist office and go walkabout to discover<br />
the many charms of Toulouse.<br />
Above top left: arcade at the Place du<br />
Capitole with painted ceiling; bottom left,<br />
je t'aime tree along the river Garonne;<br />
above street in St Etienne district<br />
Museums, marvels and minotaurs<br />
If it’s culture you’re after, Toulouse will<br />
definitely float your boat. With more than 20<br />
museums there’s no lack of choice from the<br />
Airbus Museum to the Space Museum –<br />
brilliant for tech fans, the Museum of Natural<br />
History which is great for families and any<br />
number of art museums for lovers of<br />
paintings and sculptures and artefacts from<br />
antiquity to modern.
Halle de La Machine: magical & mad<br />
The Minotaur is the brainchild of François<br />
Delaroziere and La machine company famous<br />
for The Island of the Machines in Nantes and<br />
for their incredible street theatre machines.<br />
As a kid I was captivated by stories of<br />
mythical beasts. My favourite tale was of a<br />
Minotaur who roamed a labyrinth on the<br />
Greek island of Crete. Small me believed that<br />
Minotaurs, a species which had the head and<br />
tail of a bull and the body of a man, really<br />
lived, much like dinosaurs. I dreamed of one<br />
day meeting a minotaur. Growing up, your<br />
childhood imaginations fade away – but<br />
sometimes, dreams do come true. Arriving at<br />
the brand new Halle de la Machine I was<br />
immediately confronted by the sight of a<br />
giant, blinking his big blue eyes in the sunlight<br />
and breathing steam as he swung his head to<br />
look at me. At 14m high and weighing a<br />
stonking 14 tonnes, you certainly can’t miss<br />
him. He’ll take you for a ride on his back and<br />
makes you feel as he’s almost alive.<br />
The Minotaur is not alone. In the vast space<br />
of the Halle de la Machine more mysterious<br />
inhabitants are waiting to meet you.<br />
Amongst the exhibits are a walking 37 ton<br />
spider called Ariane and musical machines<br />
which make up the strangest orchestra you’re<br />
ever likely to see. There’s a giant set of wings<br />
piloted by a machiniste, pipes which spout<br />
flames, twirling guitars and a table laid for an<br />
enchanted dinner where the pepper is<br />
sprinkled by a flying waiter.
The “veritable-machinistes” who operate the<br />
machines are also actors and story tellers<br />
and part of the show. It’s seriously mad,<br />
utterly magical and truly a must-see when<br />
you visit Toulouse.<br />
Tip: head to the onsite Minotaur café for<br />
delish dishes or a glass of wine at the bar<br />
and enjoy the spectacle of the fairy tale<br />
beast wandering about outside.<br />
Modern art and ancient…<br />
The Halle de la Machine isn’t the only home<br />
to a Minotaur in Toulouse. At Les Abbatoirs<br />
Museum of modern art, Picasso’s famous<br />
stage curtain “The Remains of the Minotaur<br />
in a Harlequin Costume” is a star in an<br />
outstanding collection. Created for a theatre<br />
in 1936, because of its fragility this showstopper<br />
is displayed for only six months of<br />
the year. The museum has a superb<br />
collection of modern and contemporary art<br />
with works by many Spanish artists exiled<br />
from Spain when General Franco seized<br />
power during the Spanish Civil War. This is<br />
no elitist museum, you can do yoga classes<br />
amongst the artworks, workshops, a library<br />
and at Christmas they hold a market where<br />
artists sell their works. After your visit pop<br />
to the park next door to enjoy the views<br />
over the river Garonne.<br />
For a complete contrast, the Bemberg<br />
Foundation is tucked away in a pretty<br />
courtyard near the Capitole. It’s in a former<br />
16th century mansion where each room has<br />
been restored to 19th century glory to<br />
showcase the wonderful collection of<br />
paintings, furniture and ornaments including<br />
Degas, Monet, Matisse and Boudin. I loved<br />
the intimate feel of this museum, as if it<br />
were still lived in by someone with the most<br />
exquisite taste in art.
Secret Toulouse<br />
Less than 15 minutes’ walk from the<br />
Capitole brings you to secret Toulouse - the<br />
Carmes and Saint-Étienne districts where<br />
there’s a villagey vibe and most visitors<br />
never venture. This is old Toulouse, the<br />
narrow streets of Carmes are lined with<br />
sumptuous manor houses built by wealthy<br />
merchants from the 16th century onwards<br />
like those in rue Ozenne. Place Sainte<br />
Scarbes is breath-takingly pretty with its ivy<br />
clad mansions and tinkling fountain, and<br />
surrounding it are roads with smart<br />
boutiques, neighbourhood bars and<br />
architecturally stunning buildings.<br />
Saint-Étienne is like the Marais district in<br />
Paris, streets lined with grand houses and<br />
chic stores in the shadow of the majestic,<br />
and massive, Cathedral St. Etienne. Browse<br />
the pretty local shops in rue Bouquières and<br />
peek through the gates of gorgeous private<br />
gardens and mansions behind monumental<br />
doors but you’ll need to take a guided tour<br />
to see more (you can book at the tourist<br />
office)<br />
Practical info<br />
Paris to Toulouse by train takes from 4<br />
hours, 6 minutes.<br />
Tourist office: www.toulouse-visit.com and<br />
UK.France.fr<br />
And Toulouse is also a great base for other<br />
great destinations, Gers is just a short drive<br />
away (see page 8 for more details),<br />
Carcassonne is only 6 miles to the south<br />
east, the Mediterranean is just 100 miles<br />
away and Albi is 50 miles away…
I’m not quite sure if there’s anywhere else<br />
you’d see waltzing Frenchmen together with<br />
a waiter sporting a furry shark’s head hat<br />
and a group of cynical journalists practicing<br />
tai chi on the dance floor of a luxurious<br />
cruise ship floating down the Rhone River.<br />
But life on a CroisiEurope boat is anything<br />
but ordinary.<br />
When my friend Anne asked me if I’d join<br />
her and a group of women travel writers on<br />
a 3-night cruise from historic Avignon in<br />
Provence to the foodie city of Lyon, I wasn’t<br />
sure it was for me. Aren’t river cruises for<br />
old people I thought. But, I love Avignon and<br />
I’ve never seen the gorges of Ardeche<br />
through which we would pass – so I said<br />
yes.<br />
What a surprise I got and how wrong I was<br />
These cruises are fabulous for friends,<br />
couples and groups. Though it was a short<br />
trip, just three days, I felt as refreshed as<br />
though I’d had a much longer break. With<br />
drinks and nibbles on offer from 10am to<br />
1am, tea, coffee and water are available 24<br />
hours, seriously good food, brilliant<br />
excursions and lovely rooms – we were<br />
spoiled rotten.<br />
If I had to describe my CroisiEurope trip<br />
from Avignon to Lyon via the Rhone River in<br />
just three words: fun, fabulous and (very)<br />
French. In fact, us uptight Brits made a pact<br />
to do another trip before we even
Who are CroisiEurope cruises for?<br />
Though predominantly French and older<br />
people on my cruise, there was a real mix of<br />
guests - groups of friends, couples and<br />
honeymooners. Kim and Jenny from<br />
Australia threw themselves with gusto into<br />
the whole thing. They danced every night<br />
(there’s always dancing and music at night)<br />
and took part in a dance competition plus<br />
the crew show.<br />
There were also guests from Malaysia,<br />
Canada, America and the UK.<br />
There are specific CroisiEurope cruises<br />
which cater for families with stuff to do for<br />
children, including kids clubs, and other tours<br />
targeted at non-families (they’re clearly<br />
marked on cruise listing details).<br />
Cabin chic<br />
I had a smart upper deck cabin with floor to<br />
ceiling windows, a super comfy bed and<br />
lovely bathroom with an invigorating shower.<br />
Drifting down river, lying in bed with an early<br />
morning cup of tea, watching the stunning<br />
scenery pass by is one of the most relaxing<br />
experiences I’ve had in a long time.<br />
There are optional daily excursions. I did<br />
three in three days and I could have done<br />
more but I wanted time to chill out on board<br />
too. Relaxing in the bright airy salon or on<br />
the sun deck with a book was a great way to<br />
unwind. We visited the wheel room, enjoyed<br />
aperitifs and made new friends. It’s a real<br />
blend of relaxing and exploring, eating great<br />
French food and having a lot of fun.
Friendly, fun and festive<br />
On one night there was a touch of Strictly<br />
Ballroom in the salon with waltzing<br />
Frenchies and tango dancing Malaysians<br />
mixed with disco dancing octogenarians,<br />
though 86 year old Evelyn who comes from<br />
nearby Avignon refrained from dancing on<br />
account she said, of breaking her leg doing<br />
the cha cha cha at a party a while back. She<br />
did however don a black curly wig to mime<br />
to Edith Piaf belting out La Vie en Rose at<br />
the crew Show. We all joined in the chorus<br />
and gave her a huge round of applause.<br />
The crew show is a tradition and it’s clear<br />
that they love doing it. The French guests<br />
especially love it though it’s probably not<br />
what US and UK holiday makers are used to.<br />
In fact for a group of cynical women travel<br />
writers we found it remarkably easy to let<br />
our hair down and join in - who can resist<br />
Mama Mia or Le Madison - a line dance<br />
favourite in France for more than 50 years -<br />
which if you don’t know it before your<br />
CroisiEurope trip, you certainly will by the<br />
time you’re finished. Sure it’s a little bit kitsch<br />
but it’s great fun and if your holiday makes<br />
you laugh, then it’s a good holiday!<br />
There’s a lot of laughter on this boat. On day<br />
1 the crew are introduced one by one. Anis<br />
the Purser strolled in to the sound of “I’m<br />
sexy and I know it”, the bar staff paraded to<br />
“The Eye of the Tiger”. The guests clapped<br />
everyone enthusiastically from the captain<br />
and his brother the deputy captain, to the<br />
chefs and housekeepers and Lilla the laundry<br />
lady (Pretty Woman if you must know).<br />
You’re drawn into the “family” of<br />
CroisiEurope crew and it’s up to you if you<br />
want to or not but on this trip, everyone<br />
loved it, whatever their age or nationality.<br />
The crew are part of the journey and by the<br />
way, they all speak English.
It's a bit Dirty Dancing for oldies<br />
The staff, whether bar, wait or cleaners are<br />
also the entertainers. At dinner on the first<br />
night, the lights were turned off and the<br />
staff, one of them sporting a fluffy shark’s<br />
head hat (we never did find out why) sang<br />
happy birthday to 86 year old evergreen<br />
Evelyn. She was delighted and managed to<br />
blow out a candle and sparkler with ease.<br />
We all sang to her again. The ice was by now<br />
well and truly broken. The crew say they get<br />
a lot of groups celebrating birthdays and<br />
anniversaries, it’s a good place to celebrate.<br />
By day two strangers chatted to strangers,<br />
there was camaraderie at the quiz event and<br />
when we were on a tour, people noticed if<br />
someone didn’t get back on the coach!<br />
The tours are part of what make this such a<br />
fabulous holiday. CroisiEurope have been at<br />
it a long time and they’ve perfected things.<br />
They know what their audiences want and<br />
they have many types of audience. Boats<br />
cater for several types of guest - from once<br />
in a lifetime trips to the Antarctic, to river<br />
cruises in Europe.
Slow travel and food, glorious food<br />
You can do as much or as little as you like,<br />
and there are excursions available every day<br />
- sometimes two. They’re designed to take in<br />
the best of the area where you visit. On my<br />
trip we had a terrific guided tour of the<br />
Palais des Papes in Avignon, a coach ride<br />
through the Gorges of the Ardeche with<br />
stops at key observation spots such as the<br />
Pont d’Arc, wine tasting in Vercours and a<br />
tour of the Roman town of Vienne, either by<br />
Segway or on foot.<br />
CroisiEurope's cruises are all inclusive<br />
(except for some off boat tours), from<br />
breakfast buffet to 3 course lunches and 4<br />
course dinners plus traditional gala dinner.<br />
Wine and cocktails, spirits and soft drinks<br />
are included - with the bar open from 10 am<br />
to 1am. When you return from tours you’re<br />
handed a refreshing drink, rooms are<br />
cleaned, beds made, the staff, every single<br />
one of them, was unfailingly friendly and<br />
welcoming.<br />
The food is superb and served at table (we<br />
had one buffet lunch). Classic French dishes<br />
are their speciality and the chefs work as<br />
much as possible with local producers to<br />
source fresh, seasonal, local food. You don’t<br />
get a menu to choose from, the attitude is<br />
very much “maman cooks, the family eats”<br />
but they do vegan, vegetarian and gluten<br />
free alternatives, and if you don’t like a dish<br />
(menus are circulated the night before), just<br />
let the reception desk know and they’ll ask<br />
the chefs to make you something different.<br />
The inclusive wine is excellent, a choice of<br />
reds, whites and rosés, plus a daily cocktail<br />
and shorts.<br />
A great way to cruise<br />
My conclusion was, a CroisiEurope river<br />
cruise in France is a trip that makes you<br />
smile. It’s perfect for couples and friends.<br />
You’ll relax, laugh, eat like a King, get to visit<br />
some beautiful places and experience slow<br />
travel in the best possible way.<br />
CroisiEurope offers a number of Rhone<br />
itineraries from April to October. They also have<br />
itineraries across France including Paris to<br />
Honfleur, Provence and many more routes. For<br />
further information and reservations visit:<br />
www.croisieurope.co.uk<br />
For loads of ideas for visits to France see: www.<br />
france.fr
LILLE<br />
A city that's a fea<br />
Janine Marsh
st for all the senses says<br />
Vieux Lille, the old town of Lille, is a<br />
place of fanciful Flemish facades,<br />
where bars, bistros, boutiques and<br />
shops line the cobbled streets which<br />
wind their way labyrinth-like around<br />
the central Place du Général de Gaulle,<br />
known as the grand’Place. Outdoor<br />
cafés abound in the ancient city centre,<br />
art of all kinds adorns the streets and<br />
you could visit a different museum in<br />
and around Lille every day for two<br />
weeks and still not see them all. The<br />
former capital of culture is lively,<br />
vivacious and at the same time<br />
cultured and urbane. Lille has<br />
undergone a metamorphosis from a<br />
once industrial hub through a rather<br />
run down stage to emerge as a top city<br />
break destination and one of the most<br />
fascinating cities in Europe…<br />
Here’s where to indulge in a feast for<br />
the senses - and the stomach…
ART: Palais des Beaux Arts<br />
The Palais des Beaux Arts lives up to its<br />
name, it really is a grand palace and one of<br />
the largest museums in France. It has the<br />
second biggest collection of fine arts<br />
outside of Paris with exhibits from<br />
antiquity to contemporary, including all the<br />
greats from Rubens, Goya and Monet to<br />
Van Gogh, Picasso and Chagall. Head to<br />
the basement to discover a unique<br />
collection of ancient relief maps, fourteen<br />
17th century exact replica miniature<br />
models of towns such as Ypres in Belgium<br />
(it was used as a blueprint for rebuilding<br />
Ypres after WWII) and Lille. They were<br />
once used by Louis XIV and his famous<br />
martial engineer Vauban to plan military<br />
tactics. There are regular, world class<br />
temporary exhibitions, and innovative<br />
touch screens (including gigapixel) help<br />
visitors to explore the artworks.<br />
EAT: Au Moulin d'Or<br />
Au Moulin d'Or is very close by, in the centre<br />
of Old Lille in a converted lingerie store<br />
which is a listed monument, this restaurant<br />
featured in Dany Boon’s “Bienvenue Chez les<br />
Ch’tis”, France’s biggest grossing film of all<br />
time. It’s been renovated to a fabulous<br />
standard with glittering chandeliers and a<br />
gorgeous central staircase and regularly<br />
showcases local artists. Upstairs or<br />
downstairs, there’s a great atmosphere and a<br />
classic brasserie menu – delicious.<br />
31-33 Place du Théâtre
ART: Musée de l’Hospice de la<br />
Comtesse<br />
The Museum of the Hospice de la Comtesse<br />
is steeped in history. It was founded in 1236<br />
by Jeanne, Countess of Flanders to care for<br />
the poor and sick, there’s a wonderful<br />
painting in the baroque chapel of Jeanne and<br />
her sister Marguerite giving money to the<br />
hospice’s nuns. The oldest part of the<br />
building dates to the 1400’s and includes<br />
magnificently furnished rooms depicting<br />
Flemish life from the 15th to the 17th<br />
centuries. My favourites were an enchanting<br />
17th century kitchen with gorgeous blue and<br />
white Delft-like tiles and a linen room with a<br />
perfectly preserved 17th century press.<br />
There’s a fascinating collection of paintings<br />
and antiques and regular exhibitions<br />
dedicated to the history of Lille. It’s a<br />
charming museum with an authentic<br />
atmosphere – a must-see.<br />
EAT: Barbue d'Anvers<br />
A short walk away, tucked away down an alley behind a pretty courtyard in a beautiful 16th<br />
century Flemish building, lies a local legend. Here they serve regional specialities such as rich<br />
and robust carbonnade flamande – a beef stew made with beer and brown sugar; the<br />
unpronounceable potjevleesch, a dish of three cold meats (traditionally rabbit, chicken and veal)<br />
in aspic; and waterzooi, a type of chicken soup. The dining room is charming and vintage, with<br />
candles, books and knick-knacks galore. The locals adore this quirky restaurant with a warm<br />
ambiance. 1 bis Rue St Etienne 59800 Lille; lebarbuedanvers.fr
ART: Gare Saint Sauveur<br />
One of the things I love about Lille is the<br />
way abandoned but spectacular buildings<br />
are converted into cultural venues. Gare<br />
Saint Sauveur, a former freight station<br />
built in 1861, is now an inspirational<br />
space where regular events, art<br />
exhibitions and performances are hosted.<br />
It houses a cinema, bar and restaurant,<br />
gardens and a summer pop up bar. The<br />
huge warehouses are perfect for<br />
showcasing art and I loved how the<br />
railway tracks were still in situ, a<br />
reminder of the past fixed in the present.<br />
It’s also one of the main Lille3000<br />
venues, the legendary tri-annual, 9-<br />
month long art festival which takes place<br />
in the streets and public buildings of Lille<br />
city and surrounding districts.<br />
EAT: Bistrot de Saint So<br />
Bistrot de Saint So is part of the Gare Saint-<br />
Sauveur complex and is a great way to mix art<br />
and food. When you’ve finished feasting on<br />
the art in the former station, head to the very<br />
chic restaurant and enjoy some seriously good<br />
dishes. This place is super popular with the<br />
locals for lunch (Wednesday – Sunday) so<br />
make sure you book in advance on their<br />
Facebook page and enjoy dining on the<br />
fabulous large terrace watched over by a giant<br />
baby with a tail, or in the chic interior. I’m not<br />
sure the food makes your “hair sparkle” as<br />
they claim (with a big smile) but with<br />
fantastically tasty salads and a seasonal menu,<br />
I think they might just be right! It’s also open<br />
Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights for a<br />
trendy night of music with DJs and live<br />
performances, plus funky cocktails. .facebook.<br />
com/bistrotdestso
ART: Vielle Bourse<br />
Head to la Vielle Bourse, the former stock<br />
exchange, built in 1623. The courtyard hosts<br />
a second-hand book market (Tues-Sun,<br />
afternoons) on stalls under a vaulted<br />
walkway, alongside walls lined with fabulous<br />
carved friezes and sculptures. If you’re there<br />
on a Sunday night in the summer, join in the<br />
tango dancing under the stars.<br />
EAT: L’Atelier des Chefs<br />
Cook your own lunch or dinner with a chef<br />
tutor. At L’Atelier des Chefs offers you’ll<br />
improve your skills as you create a classic<br />
dish from scratch in just 30 minutes. You<br />
then get to enjoy eating your masterpiece at<br />
this fun cookery school. Great for<br />
individuals, couples and friends. Lunch time<br />
cooking course €17 Euros; gourmet dinner<br />
course lesson (one hour) where you’ll make<br />
a main course and dessert €38. Booking in<br />
advance is essential.<br />
ART: Tri Postal<br />
Located in the former postal sorting<br />
office, it’s neither a museum or art centre<br />
but a place of art and life say the staff.<br />
Temporary exhibitions, performances and<br />
workshops are held in this dynamic and<br />
exciting cultural venue.<br />
EAT: Coke<br />
Coke restaurant in the ex-offices of the<br />
old Mining Company of Lens, hence the<br />
name. It’s a majestic building designed by<br />
archi-tect Louis-Marie Cordonnier.<br />
Upstairs is an elegant, chandeliered dining<br />
room, down-stairs is modern and arty and<br />
a retractable glass roof makes it great for<br />
sunny days. Bold, playful and clever food<br />
is on the menu from a talented team<br />
working in a glass-fronted kitchen. It’s<br />
also a great venue for an aperitif with a<br />
swanky cocktail bar and music on Friday<br />
nights.
ART: La Piscine & Street art Roubaix<br />
A short tram or metro ride from Lille,<br />
Roubaix's art-deco swimming pool turned<br />
museum with a world-class collection, is one<br />
of the most popular museums in France.<br />
Read more about it here.<br />
Roubaix has street art superstar status with<br />
an annual urban art festival (#XU), fabulous<br />
murals and two amazing studios dedicated to<br />
urban culture. Atelier RemyCo has 15 artists<br />
in residence including some well-known<br />
names (Mr. Voul and Freaks the Fab).<br />
Meanwhile Atelier Jouret hosts 40 artists:<br />
painters, sculptors, fashion designers and<br />
more. On the first Sunday of each month,<br />
you can visit the workshops, meet the artists<br />
and buy something unique from these<br />
hotshots of urban art.<br />
EAT: Meert at La Piscine<br />
Meert is famous for its jewel-like pastries<br />
and the most moreish waffles ever made.<br />
They’ve been making sweet things since<br />
1761 and their famous shop in Lille is like<br />
stepping back in time. They also have a<br />
beautiful art deco tearoom and restaurant<br />
with a gorgeous terrace garden (perfect for<br />
sunny day lunches) at La Piscine museum in<br />
Roubaix. The menu reflects the world class<br />
exhibitions and really adds a little je ne sais<br />
quoi to your visit. The chef works with<br />
curators to design unique menus, with<br />
exhibition-theme influenced dishes (and<br />
there’s also a seasonal, classic French<br />
menu). Leave room for one of those famous<br />
desserts and waffles – you’ll be in good<br />
company, they were created for Belgian<br />
King Leopold 1!
ART: MUBA Eugène Leroy<br />
In the district of<br />
Tourcoing on the<br />
outskirts of Lille, the<br />
Museum of Beaux Arts<br />
has an excellent and<br />
substantial permanent<br />
collection from the<br />
17th-20th century.<br />
EAT: Le Paradoxe<br />
Le Paradoxe, 3 Rue<br />
d’Havre by the museum.<br />
It’s a seriously funky<br />
restaurant located in the<br />
former Hospice which<br />
dates back to the 13th<br />
century.<br />
Far left: La Piscine; above middle, dancer and artist Yon Costes,<br />
Ateliers Jouret; above: artist Mr VOul, Ateliers Remyco<br />
Find details of all<br />
venues on the Lille<br />
Tourist Office website
La Chartreuse de Neuville<br />
A monumental hidden gem in the countryside of northern<br />
France...
A long, tree lined drive surrounded by fields<br />
and forests, makes for an impressive<br />
entrance to a grand arched doorway. Step<br />
through and you’ll enter a different world.<br />
One which has its feet firmly in the past.<br />
I’d spotted this monumental building from<br />
the ramparts of nearby Montreuil-sur-Mer’s<br />
citadel. It’s hard to miss the grey stone<br />
belfries reaching to the sky and row upon<br />
row of ancient buildings which stand out<br />
amongst the forests and fields of the lush<br />
countryside. La Chartreuse de Neuville-sur-<br />
Mer or the Charterhouse, as it’s called in<br />
English, is nothing short of astonishing.<br />
History of the Charterhouse<br />
In 1084, a group of monks wanting to follow<br />
the harsh, contemplative lives of early<br />
Christian hermits, formed a small community<br />
in the Chartreuse Mountains, near<br />
Grenoble, southeast France. They led silent,<br />
meditative lives and owned no possessions.<br />
From this beginning grew a new monastic<br />
order that spread rapidly across Europe. The<br />
monks became known as Carthusians and<br />
their priories as charterhouses.<br />
History of La Chartreuse de Neuville<br />
Charterhouses were established all over<br />
Europe. They were all built to a formal<br />
specification and for the same purpose says<br />
my guide Patrick Alindre at La Chartreuse.<br />
Around a Cour d’honneur lived the Brothers,<br />
monks who worked in the monastery and<br />
supported the Fathers. Behind this were the<br />
apartments of the Fathers. Each lived alone<br />
and in silence.<br />
The Charterhouses were huge “because only<br />
then could silence be guaranteed and that<br />
was essential to the role of the Fathers” says<br />
Patrick as our footsteps echo around the<br />
enormous cloisters.<br />
The original charterhouse of Neuville was<br />
built in 1324, commissioned by the powerful<br />
Count of Boulogne in the shadow of<br />
Montreuil-sur-Mer which was a pilgrimage<br />
destination, as well as a prosperous port<br />
town.
After the French Revolution when the state<br />
seized church property, the monks left and<br />
the building fell into disrepair. It was sold to<br />
a private buyer who dismantled it and sold<br />
off the material which was used in local<br />
buildings. The Charterhouse was bought<br />
back by the state in 1870 and restored by<br />
renowned architect Clovis <strong>No</strong>rmand, born in<br />
nearby Hesdin and a pupil of Violet le Duc,<br />
recreator of <strong>No</strong>tre Dame Paris. <strong>No</strong>rmand<br />
also designed St Hugh’s Charterhouse in<br />
Parkminster, England which is twinned with<br />
La Chartreuse de Neuville.<br />
Life in La Chartreuse<br />
The two communities of La Chartreuse de<br />
Neuville consisted of 24 Fathers and 24<br />
Brothers who grew vegetables and fruit and<br />
supported the Fathers. They were all<br />
vegetarian.<br />
Each father lived alone in an apartment<br />
called a cell, though it was quite substantial.<br />
They lived in silence and without company.<br />
Their food was passed through a guichet, a<br />
cupboard in the wall with two doors. A<br />
Brother would open the outer door, put the<br />
food in the cupboard and close the door.<br />
Then the Father would open his door to take<br />
the food. It was the same with any supplies<br />
including firewood. The Fathers were<br />
forbidden from doing work other than<br />
spiritual, except for cutting firewood. Each<br />
apartment was exactly the same, on two<br />
levels and with a small enclosed garden<br />
where they could grow flowers if they<br />
wished.<br />
The ground floor level was considered the<br />
material world – connected to the world of<br />
man. There was a short corridor known as a<br />
promenoir where a Father could walk for<br />
exercise. Upstairs they entered the Ava<br />
Maria room and left behind the world of the<br />
non-spiritual. Here they would pray for hours<br />
on end. They also had a wood cutting area, a<br />
bedroom and prayer area, a table and chair.
They were allowed to do spiritual things,<br />
reading, writing, painting and sculpting but<br />
nothing they produced ever had their<br />
signature. They had no personal<br />
possessions, no ego and no vanity. There<br />
were no distractions and their roles were<br />
viewed as collective. They prayed. A lot.<br />
The Fathers were felt to experience a<br />
spiritual consciousness by withdrawing from<br />
the world which enabled them to pray for<br />
mankind.<br />
I expected to feel claustrophobic and shut in<br />
when I stood in the apartment of a Father.<br />
But instead, it felt surprisingly open, tranquil<br />
and calm. In the small garden I could feel the<br />
rays of the sun and hear the birds. Other<br />
than that it was silent as it had been for<br />
centuries.<br />
Colourful patterns fell across the cloisters<br />
from the stained glass windows. There are<br />
several cloisters, arched and columned and<br />
glorious.<br />
The Fathers met five times a day for prayer<br />
in the Great Chapel and on Sunday<br />
afternoons when they dined together –<br />
always in silence. On Mondays they were<br />
allowed to take a walk outside the<br />
Charterhouse and speak if necessary and<br />
once a week they would gather in the<br />
Chapter Room and speak – but only if they<br />
had something relevant to say. The French<br />
saying “l’avoir l’avoir a chapitre” – having a<br />
voice in the chapter, which means to have<br />
influence, originated from this.<br />
They were allowed to meet up with their<br />
family for just two hours a year. <strong>No</strong> part of<br />
the Charterhouse was accessible to the<br />
public but religious visitors were allowed.<br />
And every Charterhouse followed the same<br />
rules and routines.
In 1901 the Loi of Association separated the<br />
church and state in France, and the<br />
monastery finally met its end. It became a<br />
sanatorium, orphanage and asylum. In WWI<br />
the French Government turned it over to<br />
refugees fleeing Belgium. 5000 people<br />
passed through, 600 died there and are<br />
buried in the grounds.<br />
La Chartreuse has dozens of cloisters,<br />
chapels, a library and other rooms. It was<br />
once the home of the printing press for all<br />
the Charterhouses of Europe 1800s but the<br />
equipment was transferred to St Hugh’s<br />
Charterhouse (there are plans to have it<br />
returned).<br />
A huge central courtyard around which are<br />
cloisters is dominated by two belfries – one<br />
for God and one for man with bells ringing<br />
on the hour. The prior of the community<br />
was elected every two years from the<br />
Fathers and lived in a bigger house<br />
overlooking the central courtyard.<br />
When they died their bodies were laid to<br />
rest in the chapel of death which you can<br />
spot by the carved skull over the top of the<br />
door. They were buried in a cloth, with no<br />
marker, nothing remained of them with their<br />
purpose fulfilled – to pray for mankind and<br />
to have no ego.<br />
<strong>No</strong>wadays you can visit and see the<br />
beautiful gardens overlooking the Canche<br />
Valley but the guided tour (in French but<br />
English speakers are given a paper guide to<br />
help them) is essential to really appreciate<br />
this incredible building.<br />
Exhibitions are held in the refractory and<br />
regular events take place year round<br />
including a Blues Festival in the summer,<br />
electro nights and concerts.<br />
It’s a fascinating place with a real feeling of<br />
spirituality…<br />
lachartreusedeneuville.org
La Charteuse, also known as the “Elixir of<br />
Long Life” for its alleged medicinal qualities) is<br />
apparently made from 130 different local<br />
herbs, plants and other botanicals gathered<br />
from the mountains around Grenoble. It's<br />
matured in oak casks, and the finished liqueur<br />
packs quite a punch.<br />
The recipe dates back to 1605 and was<br />
created by monks at the La Grande<br />
Chartreuse in Voiron. It is still made there<br />
today, said to be concocted by two monks, the<br />
only people in the world who know the<br />
heavily guarded recipe.<br />
La Chartreuse liqueur<br />
If you’re wondering if there’s a link –<br />
you’re right. There is.<br />
Try a slug of the green stuff in a hot chocolate<br />
for a "Verte Chaud" or mix with sparkling<br />
water, mint leaves, a little lime juice, 2<br />
teaspoons of sugar and ice to make a classic<br />
Chartreuse Mojito...
Petit peak at Provence<br />
Exotic, lush in Provence<br />
Oppède...<br />
Photo: Cheryl Shufflebotham
As you wind your way across the plains of the Vaucluse in Provence (all olive groves,<br />
lavender and vineyards), you see Oppède le Vieux hanging above you on the north<br />
face of the Petit Luberon. It looks haunting and beautiful says Lucy Pitts...<br />
The rise…<br />
Oppède le Vieux dates back to at least the<br />
12th century. At the very top of the village<br />
stand the remains of a medieval castle and a<br />
formidable Romanesque church. The castle<br />
was at first home to the Counts of Toulouse,<br />
then the papacy in the 13th century and<br />
thereafter to the blood thirsty Jean Maynier,<br />
Baron of Oppède in the 16th century. The<br />
latter used Oppède’s strategic positioning to<br />
wage war and it’s believed he was<br />
responsible for the massacre of 3,000<br />
people including women, children and the<br />
elderly.<br />
And fall<br />
<strong>No</strong>twithstanding its occupants, the village<br />
thrived as a 900 strong farming community<br />
for several hundred years. But by the end of<br />
the 17th century, the castle had been<br />
abandoned and slowly the residents began<br />
to move down to Oppède-les-Poulivets in<br />
the valley below. Houses on the side of the<br />
mountain are damp here, and the Luberon<br />
castes a long shadow, especially in winter. By<br />
1909, with the main village hall relocated to<br />
the valley, nature was left to reclaim the<br />
village.<br />
And then the revival<br />
But for World War II, that would have<br />
probably been the end of Oppède le Vieux.<br />
But in 1940, attracted by its secluded<br />
position, a small community of creatives<br />
moved into the village to escape persecution<br />
by the occupying forces. The community<br />
eventually grew to about 50, including the<br />
architect Bernard Zehrfuss, French sculptor<br />
François Stahly and the writer and artist<br />
Consuelo de Saint Exupéry.<br />
Although, as others had before them, the<br />
creatives too eventually moved out. But, if<br />
you look carefully, you’ll see the odd painted<br />
wall as proof they were here. And today,<br />
people are starting to move back.
GoutetVoyage.com
It feels like little has changed in the last few<br />
centuries as you leave your car in the car<br />
park below and begin to climb to the top.<br />
The streets of Oppède are narrow, cobbled<br />
and steep and the backstreets and houses<br />
defy gravity.<br />
The impressive church of <strong>No</strong>tre-Damed'Alydon<br />
has both a gargoyle and a<br />
hexagonal bell-tower and it’s certainly not<br />
what you expect. It’s also home to some<br />
fading frescoes as well as music recitals in<br />
the summer. But sadly, the adjoining castle<br />
is little more than ruins.<br />
A quirky little Café<br />
When you’ve drunk in enough of the<br />
Vaucluse below, you twist and turn your<br />
way back down to the main square. Stroll<br />
past intriguing doorways in hidden corners,<br />
15th and 16th century walls and clusters of<br />
geraniums trailing from pots in pretty<br />
courtyards.<br />
Below, and at every turn, are majestic, wide<br />
angled views of the plains. It feels like the<br />
whole of Provence is spread out beneath<br />
you. And, even in late October when I went,<br />
the skies are still blue and the Vaucluse<br />
mountains and Mont Ventoux can be seen<br />
in the distance. It is silent. Spellbinding.<br />
Stunning.
www.lagrange.com
Le Petit Café is delightfully eccentric. A<br />
vintage sports car is parked outside and a<br />
bizarre assortment of bric a brac fills the<br />
dining room and interior, including a<br />
dentist’s chair! I didn’t like to ask.<br />
Outside, you sit under the trees on an<br />
assortment of brightly coloured cushions,<br />
painted tables and chairs. There’s a large fig<br />
tree, a shaggy white dog, coloured lights and<br />
glass bottles, an old wine barrel, pots<br />
growing bamboo, a birdcage and an<br />
assortment of herbs which match the<br />
eccentricity and charm of your host.<br />
A Panier des Saveurs (which is a tapas made<br />
from seasonal Provencal ingredients) served<br />
on a rusty, old vintage tray and a glass of<br />
chilled white wine later and you’re ready to<br />
spend the rest of your life here. It’s one of<br />
those hedonistic places you visit for sheer<br />
pleasure. And then want to stay for a<br />
lifetime. In short, it’s one of the many great<br />
little gems of Provence.<br />
You can find out more about the Vaucluse in<br />
Provence at www.provenceguide.com
YOUR PHOTOS<br />
Every weekend, we invite you to share your photos on Facebook - it's a great way for<br />
everyone to see "real" France and be inspired by real travellers snapping pics as they go.<br />
Every week there are utterly gorgeous photos being shared and here we showcase the most<br />
popular of each month. Share your favourite photos with us on Facebook - the most "liked"<br />
will appear in the next issue of The Good Life France Magazine...<br />
APRIL:<br />
A photo we can all identify with<br />
right now. The old lady at the<br />
window, Sarlat, Dordogne by<br />
Pat Bruce. +8000 engagements
MARCH:<br />
Bomres Les Mimosas by Ron Jo<br />
Warren. +6000 engagements<br />
FEBRUARY:<br />
Monet's garden, Giverny,<br />
<strong>No</strong>rmandy by Daniela<br />
Perria Rickey +6000<br />
engagements<br />
Join us on<br />
Facebook<br />
and like and<br />
share your<br />
favourite<br />
photos of<br />
France...
Discover the<br />
<strong>No</strong>rthern<br />
Riviera<br />
Fabulous beaches, an historic past, chic towns and<br />
easy access to the UK. Welcome to the <strong>No</strong>rthern<br />
Riviera...
The French Riviera, or Côte d’Azur, is world<br />
famous for good reason. But there’s another<br />
Riviera in France that is far easier to reach<br />
for both British buyers and Parisians, and<br />
one that has much to offer in its own right<br />
says Liz Rowlinson…<br />
The nearest part of France to the UK, the<br />
<strong>No</strong>rthern Riviera - or Côte d’ Opale - offers<br />
layers of history, from prehistory to the two<br />
world wars, including the Great War, Added<br />
to this is over 120km of beautiful fine sandy<br />
beaches, chic seaside towns and, at times,<br />
even better weather than it’s glitzier southern<br />
counterpart.<br />
“This is a fabulous area, popular with French,<br />
British and Belgian home buyers, because of<br />
its proximity to both the UK and northern<br />
European cities,” says Tim Sage, Leggett’s<br />
coordinator for the area. “It’s easy to reach<br />
by ferry or Le Shuttle for the British - and<br />
numbers commute back to the UK weekly -<br />
and it’s much more affordable than other<br />
French coastal areas, including the Charente-<br />
Maritime and the Côte d’Azur.”<br />
With buoyant tourism due to the historic<br />
locations - the battle sites of Agincourt and<br />
later World War One, the Commonwealth<br />
War Cemeteries, and rocket launch sites - it<br />
can also be good for holiday rentals with the<br />
offering of a full range of outdoor activities.<br />
So where are the popular spots for buyers?<br />
Starting at the Belgian border - the Riviera<br />
spans from there to Berck-sur- Mer in the<br />
Pas-de-Calais department - the stretch<br />
between Dunkirk and Calais is popular with<br />
French buyers, yet less so with the British.
“For some reason there’s a perception that<br />
it’s not the ‘real France’, perhaps because of<br />
its very proximity,” he says. “Yet, nearby<br />
Gravelines and Loon-Plage are popular with<br />
the French, with 2/3 bedroom apartments<br />
from €180,000,” says Tim.<br />
British interest picks up at the delightful<br />
seaside resort of Wimereux on the Côte<br />
d’Opale with its Belle Epoque villas and<br />
beach huts. The steep cliffs of the nearby<br />
Deux Caps - Gris Nez and Blanc Nez - offer<br />
beautiful beaches backed by dunes and<br />
conifers. Nice houses start from €200,000.<br />
The beautiful old fortified city of Boulogne-<br />
Sur-Mer is next up (or rather down the<br />
coast), popular with British and French<br />
buyers for its good value - you can get a 2<br />
bedroom apartment for €114,000, or a 5<br />
bedroom townhouse for around €200,000.<br />
Golfers gravitate towards Hardelot-Plage,<br />
south of Boulogne, because of its<br />
championship golf course. British buyers<br />
love the fact you can buy a golf apartment<br />
for around €110,000.<br />
Whilst the Côte d’Azur has Cannes, the<br />
northern coast has Le Touquet, and the palm<br />
trees add to its glamorous image, ever since<br />
the likes of <strong>No</strong>el Coward, Winston Churchill<br />
and Edward and Mrs Simpson holidayed<br />
there back in the 1920's and 30’s. Indeed,<br />
it’s an alluring mélange of French and<br />
English, with Parisians in love with its<br />
refinement too, it’s full name is Le Touquet-<br />
Paris Plage.<br />
Expect to pay €350,000 to €400,000 for a<br />
two-bedroom apartment, but head across<br />
the bridge for better value Étaples - a<br />
traditional fishing port village with<br />
fishermen's houses from €80,000. Visit the<br />
wonderful fish restaurants and you may be<br />
smitten.
Last but not least is Berck-Plage, or Bercksur-Mer,<br />
a great year-round location with<br />
fabulous beaches, a popular kite festival and<br />
apartments from €85,000 or 3 bedroom<br />
houses from €180,000. The former fishing<br />
village also offers the delicious dish<br />
Berckoise Caudière, a kind of bouillabaisse<br />
of the Channel - who needs to head all the<br />
way to Marseille?<br />
See Tim's property portfolio Pas de Calais:<br />
NOTE<br />
Whilst we may not be able to travel<br />
currently, Leggett Immobillier, the award<br />
winning property agency in France are still<br />
open for business, albeit working from<br />
home. They are able to send property<br />
details, complete mandates electronically<br />
and book reserved tours, find details here:<br />
https://www.frenchestateagents.com/<br />
pages/covid-19-open-for-business
BeaconGlobalWealth.com
Your essential<br />
Guide to<br />
moving to<br />
France<br />
In these difficult times with the Covid-19 virus preventing travel and<br />
halting plans, and the upcoming removal of the UK from the European<br />
Union, we asked Jennie Poate of Beacon Global Wealth to give us some<br />
top tips to help those planning on moving to France when they can…<br />
You find your dream home in France,<br />
you can’t wait to move there and<br />
start living the good life but there are<br />
a few things you need to do first.<br />
You’ll need to fill in paperwork and<br />
notify authorities in the UK and<br />
France, sort out healthcare, maybe<br />
inheritance planning, savings, tax and<br />
whole host of fun things.<br />
Before you leave the UK, check this<br />
list to see what needs to be done:<br />
Get form P85 from Revenue and<br />
Customs, fill it in and return it. It<br />
notifies the tax authorities that you<br />
are leaving the country and helps<br />
ensure that you’ll be taxed<br />
appropriately.<br />
If you’re retired, request an S1 Form.<br />
https://www.gov.uk/moving-orretiring-abroad<br />
Set up a mail redirection if you know<br />
where you’ll be living in France or to<br />
an address in the UK that can forward<br />
mail on to you in a batch.<br />
Inform your local GP and dentist that<br />
you are leaving so they can take you<br />
off their books.<br />
Request a State pension forecast: if<br />
you’re going to live in France longterm<br />
or forever and may not return to<br />
the UK before you become eligible for<br />
your pension. https://www.gov.uk/<br />
check-state-pension<br />
<strong>No</strong>tify the Pension Service of your<br />
new address so they’ll know how to<br />
contact you. https://www.gov.uk/<br />
international-pension-centre<br />
<strong>No</strong>tify your personal or company<br />
pension trustees of your new address.
You can keep your UK investments in the<br />
UK, but they will now be taxable in<br />
France. <strong>No</strong>tify administrators of your<br />
new address. If you would like to know<br />
how your UK pension(s) will be treated in<br />
France and the tax efficient alternatives<br />
for your savings/investments as a French<br />
tax resident Jennie is happy to offer a<br />
free consultation.<br />
Let your utility providers and local<br />
authority know you’re leaving and ask for<br />
final bills.<br />
If you’re keeping your home in Britain<br />
and renting it out, you should inform<br />
your insurance company as your existing<br />
policy<br />
may not cover you for home rental.<br />
If you’re still paying a mortgage on the<br />
property, you should let your mortgage<br />
provider know.<br />
Your UK rental Income will remain<br />
taxable in the UK but must be declared<br />
on your French tax return. As there is a<br />
dual tax arrangement between the UK<br />
and France, it won’t be taxed twice<br />
(Brexit should not impact this<br />
arrangement) https://www.gov.uk/<br />
government/publications/non-residentlandlord-application-to-have-uk-rentalincome-without-deduction-of-uk-taxindividuals-nrl1<br />
Make a Will. If you already have one,<br />
In France<br />
Get your paperwork in order, you’ll need<br />
to have a number of original<br />
documents – and take copies of<br />
everything. What you need depends on<br />
whether you’re retiring or working either<br />
as self employed or for a company.<br />
Essential documents may include:<br />
Birth certificate, marriage certificate, Tax<br />
returns (for two years), 12 months of<br />
bank statements, certificates of<br />
professional qualification (if setting up a<br />
business), driving licence.<br />
Some documents may need to be<br />
translated by an official translator.<br />
Open a bank account, it is increasingly<br />
difficult to pay for things without one if<br />
you live in France, most utilities are now<br />
paid online or by cheque. You can open<br />
a non-resident account before you leave<br />
the UK and notify the bank to change it<br />
to a resident account when you arrive.<br />
Sort out health care in France. For the<br />
first few months you can still use your<br />
EHIC (pre-Brexit, post Brexit has not<br />
been confirmed). Or sort out private<br />
healthcare. If you’re retired, your S1<br />
Form currently enables you to claim<br />
back your healthcare costs (pre-Brexit).<br />
The French healthcare system has a<br />
great reputation but you may need to<br />
top up with private health insurance –<br />
this is normal, the majority of French<br />
people take out top up insurance. You<br />
should then return your British EHIC<br />
card and apply for your Carte Vitale<br />
which you need to take with you to all<br />
medical appointments in France.
Apply to the local CPAM (Caisse Primaire<br />
d’Assurance Maladie) for healthcare<br />
cover. Applicaton depends on your status<br />
eg retired, salaried worker, selfemployed.<br />
https://www.ameli.fr/<br />
If you take your UK registered car with<br />
you, you’ll need to register it in France.<br />
There is currently a huge backlog to<br />
process applications. You’ll need to have<br />
various documents and make an<br />
application online at:<br />
https://ants.gouv.fr/<br />
If you’ve got kids, you’ll need to register<br />
them for school.<br />
There is more information on the UK<br />
Government website about applying for a<br />
residence permit when the transition<br />
period ends on 31 December 2020.<br />
Jennie Poate is a UK expat who has lived<br />
in France for several years and is a<br />
qualified financial advisor who has helped<br />
many expats to organise their finances<br />
and tax in France.<br />
Schedule your free no obligation<br />
consultation to find out if Jennie and her<br />
team at Beacon Global Wealth can help<br />
you.<br />
info@bgwealthmanagement.net<br />
beaconglobalwealth.com/<br />
www.beaconglobalwealth.com
Everything you need to know about<br />
French Mortgages<br />
An estimated 84,000 UK nationals moved<br />
across the Channel in 2019 – a 10 year<br />
high. Traditionally most home buyers were<br />
retired or looking to purchase second<br />
homes, but France is an increasingly<br />
attractive option for young families and<br />
people in their 40’s and 50’s.<br />
Affordable property, beautiful countryside<br />
and coastline, great food, wine and good<br />
quality health and education systems are all<br />
irresistible temptations for a new generation<br />
of Britons seeking a new life in France.<br />
French house prices are considerably<br />
cheaper than the UK. Although official<br />
figures suggest the property values are<br />
rising gently, there are plenty of<br />
competitively priced homes for sale,<br />
particularly in rural locations and smaller<br />
towns.<br />
The French mortgage market and<br />
eligibility for a loan<br />
Buying a property with a mortgage is<br />
increasingly popular, helped by continuing<br />
low interest rates. Mortgages can also be<br />
taken out to pay for renovations, new build<br />
construction (including both the land and<br />
building costs), equity release or to remortgage.<br />
Though, if you are thinking of remortgaging,<br />
be aware that in France there<br />
may be high fees.<br />
There are a number of differences between<br />
French and UK mortgages. Below are a few<br />
examples:<br />
Interest rates: In France rates are set for a<br />
maximum <strong>25</strong> year term. A fixed term of 5<br />
years is more common in the UK.
Eligibility: French banks look in detail for<br />
proof of income and the total amount of<br />
household debt. This debt ratio determines<br />
whether they feel your mortgage is<br />
affordable. In the UK the affordability criteria<br />
is generally three times your income.<br />
Consumer protection: The French<br />
mortgage market is heavily regulated.<br />
Buyers are required to pay for mortgage<br />
protection insurance. The UK market,<br />
despite some tightening in recent years, has<br />
lighter regulations.<br />
The French mortgage market is open<br />
to both residents and to nonresidents.<br />
French mortgage lenders have become far<br />
more prepared to offer loans to non-resident<br />
buyers in recent years. Lenders have an<br />
option of taking out a Euro mortgage rather<br />
than a loan in sterling from a UK bank. An<br />
important first step is opening a French<br />
bank account; this will enable you to deposit<br />
and transfer funds regularly.<br />
Proving that you have a stable income is a<br />
key test for French home buyers. Lenders<br />
will not discriminate against you if you are<br />
self-employed but you must supply three<br />
years’ tax returns and your earnings over<br />
that period determines the amount you can<br />
borrow.<br />
Types of French mortgage<br />
In France, the majority of home buyers opt<br />
for a standard capital repayment loan in<br />
where you repay both the capital and the<br />
interest.<br />
Interest only loans are less common and<br />
are mostly taken out by landlords who want<br />
to minimise their outgoings.<br />
rates increase and are generally fixed for<br />
the entire duration of the mortgage.<br />
However, redemption fees can be<br />
expensive. So, if you want to repay early,<br />
remember to take this into consideration.<br />
Borrowing a maximum of 80% of the<br />
property’s value is the norm, though it may<br />
vary up to 85%. How much you can borrow<br />
depends on your financial circumstances<br />
and credit rating.<br />
Equity release isn't common in France but is<br />
possible if you don't have an existing<br />
mortgage on your property. The amount of<br />
household debt must not exceed 33% of<br />
your annual income.<br />
Calculating the cost of your<br />
mortgage<br />
When applying for a mortgage, French<br />
lenders must state the interest rate as an<br />
APR (Annual Percentage Rate) to make<br />
comparisons easy. A number of factors<br />
affect the total cost including: Amount<br />
borrowed, loan duration, type of mortgage<br />
(e.g. capital repayment or interest only)<br />
Interest rate (APR), fees, mortgage<br />
protection insurance and redemption<br />
penalties<br />
Example: Couple buying a French property<br />
for €170,000 with a capital repayment loan.<br />
% € Years<br />
Loan Term 20<br />
Loan to Value 80.00<br />
Interest Rate (APR) 1.80<br />
Property Purchase 170,000<br />
Deposit 34,000<br />
Amount Borrowed 136,000<br />
MONTHLY COST 675<br />
*Important note: this is an example only and<br />
does not represent an offer.<br />
Fixed rate or variable rate? Fixed rate<br />
mortgages offer greater stability if interest
How to apply for a French mortgage<br />
Banks and financial lenders in France require<br />
detailed documentation - be prepared! This<br />
includes: Applicant details, financial<br />
information (proof of income, arrears/debts<br />
etc) Employment and business details,<br />
Project costs and fees, outgoings & assets.<br />
With CA Britline you can download and<br />
complete the application form for a<br />
mortgage here: www.britline.com/mortgage<br />
You can also request a Pre-mortgage<br />
approval certificate. This will confirm how<br />
much the bank is prepared to lend you.<br />
Successful mortgage applicants receive a<br />
Mortgage Offer which is valid for 30 days.<br />
<strong>No</strong>te: Borrowers must sign a sale & purchase<br />
contract for their property before a lender<br />
will issue a formal Mortgage Offer.<br />
Security, guarantees and mortgage<br />
protection<br />
There are different ways to secure against a<br />
mortgage using various types of guarantees.<br />
The fees payable vary according to each<br />
option. It is recommen-ded that you discuss<br />
this with your lender.<br />
In France, mortgage borrowers are offered a<br />
high degree of consumer protection, covered<br />
by a strict regulatory framework, to guard<br />
against irresponsible lending.<br />
Good luck with your property search!<br />
Further Information<br />
To find out more about CA Britline’s<br />
mortgages with competitive rates and<br />
flexible options with rapid approval, contact<br />
us today: www.britline.com<br />
A loan is a commitment and must be repaid.<br />
Check your ability to repay the loan before<br />
making the commitment. Under the<br />
condition that your mortgage file is accepted<br />
by your Caisse Regionale de Credit Agricole,<br />
lender. You have a cooling off period of 10<br />
days to accept the mortgage offer. The<br />
completion of the sale is subject to obtaining<br />
the loan. If this is not achieved, the seller<br />
must refund your payments.
Pissaladière
This delicious Provencal version of pizza is a firm favourite in Nice and the French<br />
Riviera. It's easy to make at home, is great for a snack or light meal, very moreish and<br />
goes well with a green salad or on its own or with a glass of rosé...<br />
Ingredients for a Pissaladière for 6<br />
40g (1 ½ oz butter)<br />
1 tablespoon olive oil<br />
1.5kg (3lb 5 oz) onions, thinly sliced<br />
2 tablespoons thyme leaves<br />
1 quantity of bread dough – easy make recipe below<br />
1 tablespoon olive oil<br />
16 anchovies sliced in half<br />
24 pitted olives (if you’re not a fan of olives you can use cherry tomatoes cut in half)<br />
How to make Pissaladière<br />
Melt the butter with the olive oil in a pan.<br />
Add the thinly sliced onions and half the thyme.<br />
Cover the pan and cook on a low heat for 45 minutes stirring from time to time. The onions<br />
should be soft but not brown. Season with salt and pepper and leave to cool.<br />
Preheat oven to 200˚C (400˚F/Gas mark 6).<br />
Roll out the bread dough and place in an oiled tin (34 x 26xm is ideal).<br />
Brush the top of the bread with olive oil and spread the onions over the top.<br />
Lay the anchovies in a lattice pattern over the onion and pop the olives in the lattice<br />
diamonds. Wash them in water if you like them less salty.<br />
Bake for 20 minutes or until the dough is cooked and lightly browned.<br />
Sprinkle the remaining thyme over and serve warm or cold, cut into squares.<br />
How to make bread dough for your Pissaladière<br />
2 teaspoons baker’s yeast (15g/ ½ oz)<br />
200g (2 cups) strong plain (all purpose) flour<br />
½ teaspoon salt<br />
3 tablespoons olive oil<br />
1<strong>25</strong>ml warm water<br />
Sift the flour, add the yeast and salt and mix.<br />
Stir in the olive oil and lukewarm water and<br />
knead into a dough by hand or with a mixer.<br />
Leave to rest in a lightly oiled container for<br />
one hour.<br />
Turn out on a lightly floured surface and roll<br />
into shape.
Le Soufflé is considered a culinary masterpiece in France. The word soufflé comes from<br />
souffler – to breathe or to puff, and this dish takes puffing to an art form!<br />
The first time the recipe for a cheese soufflé was recorded was 1742 in Le Cuisine Modern<br />
by Vincent La Chapelle (modern for those times of course!). La Chappelle was known to<br />
cook for rich and wealthy clients, including Madame de Pompadour, mistress of Louis XV.<br />
Years later, Chef Marine-Antoine Carême, one of the first celebrity chefs, published “Le<br />
Pâtissier Royal Parisien” published in 1815, contained several pages on the art of making<br />
soufflés. It put the dish thoroughly on the gastronomic map of France and the world.<br />
Ingredients<br />
50g/½ cup/1.3 oz Butter, plus a little extra for greasing<br />
<strong>25</strong>g/¼ cup/0.9 oz Breadcrumbs OR 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese<br />
50g/½ cup/1.03 oz Plain flour<br />
1 teaspoon mustard powder<br />
300ml Milk<br />
4 medium eggs<br />
100g/2/3 cup/4oz strong grated cheddar (blue cheese or goats cheese are good too<br />
Salt and pepper to season
Audrey Hepburn learns how to make cheese souffle in the film "Sarbina." The master<br />
chef critiques the dishes: "Too low; too high; too heavy; sloppy” or in Sabrina's case,<br />
uncooked as she forgot to turn the oven on! Here's how to make it perfectly with an<br />
easy to follow recipe...<br />
How to make a perfect cheese soufflé<br />
Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 and pop a baking sheet on the middle shelf. Butter<br />
a 15cm (6 inch) soufflé dish, then sprinkle in the breadcrumbs OR the Parmesan cheese<br />
(whichever you prefer) and shake the dish to make sure the crumbs/Parmesan cheese are<br />
evenly spread and tip the rest out.<br />
Melt the butter over a medium heat in a pan then stir in the flour and mustard powder.<br />
Keep stirring for about a minute. Take the pan off the heat and gradually stir in the milk,<br />
mixing it thoroughly. Return the pan to the heat and stir continuously for around 10<br />
minutes until the mix becomes very thick. Transfer the mix to a bowl and allow it to cool.<br />
Separate the egg whites into a bowl and fold the yolks into the sauce then the cheese, and<br />
season well.<br />
Whisk the egg whites until peaks form. Using a metal spoon, gently stir the whipped whites<br />
into the white sauce. Then spoon the mixture into the greased dish. Run a cutlery knife<br />
around the edge to help the souffle rise above the rim and not stick.<br />
Place on the baking sheet and bake for <strong>25</strong>-30 minutes until the top is golden and risen and<br />
has a slight wobble.<br />
Serve immediately and enjoy enormously!
Pastis Gascon /<br />
Gascon Apple Pie<br />
Ingredients for 4 to 6 people in a <strong>25</strong>cm tart dish<br />
1 packet (12 sheets) filo pastry<br />
80g sugar<br />
Icing sugar<br />
For the apple filling<br />
About 4-6 apples<br />
3 tbsps sugar<br />
About 75g melted butter .<br />
60 ml Armagnac (you can use calvados too but it wouldn’t be Gascon but <strong>No</strong>rman)<br />
Half a lemon<br />
Method<br />
Pre-heat the oven to 180°C (170C fan)/375F/ gas 5<br />
Peel, core and quarter the apples, then slice thinly and set aside in a bowl tossed in a<br />
squeeze of lemon, 3 tablespoons of sugar and the Armagnac. Leave to macerate for up to<br />
one hour.<br />
Melt the butter.<br />
Brush the tart dish with melted butter.<br />
From the filo pastry pack, take a sheet, brush with melted butter and lay on the base of the<br />
dish. Press into the sides leaving the overlap hanging over the edge of the tin. Lay another<br />
buttered sheet at an angle to the first sheet and repeat three more times so that the pastry<br />
covers all round the edges. Keep the packet covered with a damp clean cloth to stop the<br />
pastry drying out.<br />
Spread the apple mixture over the base.<br />
Brush a sheet of filo with butter and sprinkle with sugar (about a teaspoon). Scrunch it up<br />
like a tissue and pop it on top of the apples. Repeat with the remaining filo pastry. You’re<br />
aiming to create height and texture. The sugar on the pastry makes it very crispy and<br />
sweet.<br />
Pop it into the oven for about 30 to 35 minutes. Keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn’t<br />
burn on the corners but is golden all over.<br />
The tart is delicious cold or warm – sprinkled with icing sugar (and you can also sprinkle a<br />
little more Armagnac if you wish.
I never thought I would be so excited to see Jean-Francois, the village handyman. But I’d<br />
spent endless days indoors not seeing another human (if you don’t count the husband). As I<br />
hung a bag for the Bread Man on the gate so he could pop my bread delivery in, I spotted<br />
the lanky Jean-Francois in his never-seen-out-of-them blue overalls (except once at the<br />
village harvest party), trimming a hedge down the road.<br />
We exchanged long distance waves.<br />
“Ca va?” he called.<br />
“Ca va!” I shouted back, “Ca va?”<br />
The Good Life<br />
Janine Marsh's life in lock-down France<br />
That started the dogs barking in the back garden and he had to yell his answer “Ca va, ca<br />
va.”<br />
Mon dieu, the first conversation I have had with another human (again not counting the<br />
husband) in real life in goodness knows how long consisted of just 3 letters. <strong>No</strong>w in case<br />
you think I’m referring to a sparkling wine that’s spelled the same way give or take a space,<br />
I’m not. “Ca va” is the universal general greeting of the French. You might have been taught<br />
at school that “comment allez vous” is what you should say when you meet someone, but<br />
unless you’re in a formal situation or rendezvous-ing with the President or Prince Albert of<br />
Monaco, say that as a greeting to your mates and you will be greeted with a look of<br />
astonishment.<br />
In fact, the French I speak with my neighbours is nothing like the French I was taught at<br />
school. All manner of words come up that fill me with astonishment like “bof” which is how<br />
you reply to “ca va” if you’re only so-so, instead of saying you’re well which requires you to<br />
reply “ca va”. And my French teacher, a sophisticated Parisienne, never prepared a youthful<br />
me for living in the far north of France where they speak with such a strong accent that even<br />
the rest of France can hardly understand the locals.<br />
But gradually I’m getting this French language malarkey and can hold a conversation quite<br />
well. At first it was like a game of tennis, I could volley a word in but couldn’t really hold an<br />
extended rally of conversation. These days, after a lot of practice, I can score break points<br />
by throwing in some “real French”, there’s always a way to fit “toho-bohu” (confusion) or<br />
“Hurluberlu” (eccentric) or “ah, la vache” (which although it literally translates as “oh my<br />
cow” means “oh my god”) into a conversation.<br />
I still make mistakes though. I once announced to a bus load of Frenchies “je suis chaud”. It<br />
was a sweltering hot day, I thought I was saying “I am hot”. <strong>No</strong>n. It’s a rookie error and to<br />
Frenchies it means “I am hot” - as in 9 1⁄2 Weeks the erotic film. Napoleon Bonaparte once<br />
said “Du sublime au ridicule, il n’y a qu’un pas’ – “From the sublime to the ridiculous there is<br />
but one step…” and so it is!