Issue No. 24

Editor's
Letter
Welcome to the Autumn/Winter 2019 issue of The Good Life France Magazine.
Discover three cities that are perfect for a wine themed tour, Alsace (especially with
a sprinkling of snow), Bordeaux and Burgundy are fabulous whatever the weather! If
you’ve never been to Dinan – you’ll definitely want to go after you read our guide
and then head to the pink granite coast with its magical rock formations and
gorgeous beaches. We check out some unusual visits in Paris from spooky manors to
downright weird museums.
Lucy Pitts admits she’s not really that into skiing but found out there’s loads to do in
the French Alps where you don’t have to be sliding down the slopes. If you’re looking
for a great short break destination – historic Boulogne-sur-Mer on the Opal Coast
will float your boat. Around the coast UNESCO listed Le Havre couldn’t be more
different but equally fascinating.
Find out what to do in Mulhouse, the arty Alsatian city is undergoing a
metamorphosis and join Amy McPherson as she goes walkabout in the Dordogne
Valley. Check out the best tours for 2020, learn how to make kugelhopf, see
colourful Collioure in the south of France in photos… and lots more.
I hope you enjoy reading this issue, and if you do please share it with your friends –
it’s free, and always will be.
With best wishes
Janine
Editor

contents
Features
8 Winter wine themed visits
Alsace, Bordeaux and Burgundy – perfect
city wine break visits whatever the
weather…
16 Arty Party Montpellier
The southern French city gets superstar art
status…
22 Dinan – a medieval marvel
Wander the wiggly, windy streets of
beautiful Dinan to nourish your soul says
Janine Marsh
30 Paris Chills and Thrills
Unusual visits in the city of light - from the
strange to the spooky
34 La Vie en Rose Granite
Janine Marsh finds Brittany’s pink granite
coast is absolutely stunning…
42 There’s more than skiing
to the French Alps in Winter
Lucy Pitts discovers there’s loads to do for
non-skiers in the snowy Alps…

Features continued
48 Le Weekend: Boulogne-
Sur-Mer
Janine Marsh says the city on the Opal Coast
is perfect for a short break
56 Stroll through the
Dordogne Valley
Amy McPherson goes walkabout in the
Dordogne valley.
62 Destination: Mulhouse
Amazing Museums and an arty vibe, Janine
Marsh discovers the Alsatian city is
undergoing a metamorphosis…
70 Spotlight on Le Havre
The UNESCO listed Normandy harbour
town
is rich in architecture, history and art finds
Janine Marsh.
76 Best tours of France 2020
10 fabulous tours that will make you want to
pack your bags right now!
80 Collioure
Photographer Lonna Coleman captures the
colourful ambiance od this southern French
town in photos…
Regular
84 Your Photos
The most popular photos on our Facebook
page.

102 My Good Life in France
In which the rural countryside becomes a
land of party animals...
Expert Advice
86 Why are cheques still so
useful in France?
We ask the experts…
90 Taking your first steps in
France
Handy hints to help you settle in France.
94 Finance in France
Why it’s essential to talk to your financial
advisor to help you plan your new life in
France.
98 Kugelhopf
Food writer Carole Bumpus shares her
delicious Alsatian Kugelhopf recipe, the
perfect cake with coffee, tea, or any time!
100 Leek and potato soup
A hearty soup that's ideal for chilly days,
easy to make and absolutely delicious!

Where to enjoy
wine in winter in
France

When the grape harvest is over, the vine leaves have all blown away
and the wind whistles through the vineyards – you might be surprised
to know it’s a good time to visit some of the best wine growing
regions in France. Many vineyards are open for tastings in winter and
wine makers have more time to chat. Museums are less crowded,
menus reflect the season with robust and tasty dishes and there’s not
much that beats enjoying a glass of wine in a cosy café…
Add these three fabulous destinations to your winter wine-themed
wanderlist…
PSN/BETSCH

ALSACE
Alsace is the quintessential winter
destination with its fairy tale like villages,
especially with a dusting of snow. The
region's vineyards are nestled between the
Rhine River in the East and the Vosges
mountains in the west.
Alsace is famous for its luscious white wines
such as Riesling and Gewürztraminer,
perfect winter whites. Follow the vineyard
trails on the designated Route de Vin and
enjoy numerous wine tasting.
Base yourself in Riquewihr
Base yourself in the enchanting village of
Riquewihr with its quaint half-timbered
houses, wine bars and fabulous restaurants.
From here it’s easy to tour the area. Don’t
miss enchanting Eguisheim, voted favourite
village of the French in 2017. Colmar is a
must-see, this biggish city has a sensational
old town, known as “little Venice” thanks to
the canal that criss crosses it, lined with
gorgeous old houses in every pastel shade
there is. Strasbourg is less than an hour's
drive away and in the winter the frosted
cobbled streets are enchanting; and the
museums are cosy!
Don’t miss a trip to the Chateau de
Kaysersberg, high up on a hill with stunning
views, it is atmospheric and fascinating, here
you’ll really get a feel for how tough winters
were in days gone by!
Local specialities are numerous and the
influence of neighbouring Germany is strong.
Choucroute (sauerkraut) is served
everywhere as is baeckeoffe, a meat and
wine stew and flammekeuche a delicious thin
crust pizza with sour cream. Finish with
kugelhopf (see our recipe on page 98) or
birewecke, a bread style cake filled with
dried fruits and spices – and a lot of Kirsch.

Take a wine tasting: Domaine Dopff open
year-round (dopff-au-moulin.fr), the first
winemaking house to produce Crémant
d’Alsace.
Wine and dine: Au Trotthus. Chef Philippe
Aubron cooks up a storm in this beautiful,
cosy building next to the Dolder Tower, a
13th century landmark. The dishes are
beautiful to look at and seriously delicious,
his apple pie and home-made ice cream is
probably the best you will ever taste. A
memorable restaurant. (trotthus.com).
Stay at: Hotel L’Oriel in an ancient building,
right in the centre. It’s so pretty it looks as if
it’s made out of gingerbread! The hotel bar is
great to relax in with a glass of wine and in
winter this cosy nook is just about perfect.

BORDEAUX
Bordeaux makes for an ideal winter city
break and its wines are amongst the most
prestigious in the world. Rich, voluptuous,
spicy reds and soft whites from legendary
vineyards such as St-Emilion, Margaux and
Blaye.
In the city of Bordeaux, the number one
must see is the Cité du Vin – it is
extraordinary. Whether you’re a wine lover
or not, this museum is entertaining,
fascinating and delicious. Innovative
displays – boxes on the walls come to life at
the push of a button! – take you through the
history of wine from millennia ago to today.
Included in the price is a wine tasting on the
8th floor with fabulous views over the city.
Head to the 7th floor for lunch, dinner, a
snack, coffee or wine – the terrific
restaurant Le 7 which has superb views,
wine savvy staff and a delectable menu.
Wander the streets of old Bordeaux where
the UNESCO listed Neoclassical architecture
is magnificent. Enjoy a night at the Opera in
the city’s famous opera house or visit
museums galore. The shopping is second to
none (if you’re there in January the sales are
fabulous), in fact its home to the longest
pedestrianised shopping street in Europe.
With thousands of superb restaurants, this is
a city that gives Lyon, often called the capital
of gastronomy in France, a run for its money.
Local specialities include tourin bordelaise,
an onion soup thickened with egg yolks,
entrecôte Bordelaise, steak with a rich red
wine sauce, and canelé, a soft cake with rum
and vanilla flavoured filling. Really spoil
yourself with the most popular treat in the
city – a “Dune Blanche”, delicious little sweet
pastries filled with cream, exclusively from
Chez Pascal, 7 Rue de la Vieille Tour.

Take a wine tasting at: Maison Gobineau.
They have every kind of Bordeaux wine and
the prices will blow you away – 2 Euros for a
superb red, in stunning surroundings, think
18th century building, Aubusson tapestry
and stained-glass. Simply the best in town. (1
Cours du 30 Juillet)
Wine and dine at: Le Chapon Fin, the
magnificent Belle Epoque dining room
created in 1825 has true wow factor. The
former 3 Michelin Star restaurant changed
chefs a short while ago, and as a result, the
prices went down but the food is just as
delicious as ever and the wine cellar is a
marvel (www.chapon-fin.com).
Stay at: Live like a local at a luxurious
apartment in the city - Your Bordeaux Home
offers several superb options
(yourbordeauxhome.com).

BURGUNDY
Burgundy’s wines are known throughout the
world and winter is a great time to visit, a
little chill in the air adds something to the
sublime wines from Gevrey-Chambertin,
Nuits-St-Georges, Vosne-Romanée and
Chablis, to name just a few.
Beaune makes for a great base to tour the
local countryside and the vineyards of the
Route des Grands Crus. The city has a
beautiful old centre with cobbled streets and
is terrific for wandering, getting lost,
warming up with a hot chocolate and
enjoying the wonderful architecture.The
must-see place is the Hotel Dieu founded by
Guigone de Salins and her husband Nicolas
Rolin in 1443. On the third week-end of
November the 3 Glorieuses take place in this
part of the town: a charity wine auction -
proceeds to fund the local hospital’s equipment
and the hotel-dieu’s conservation.
The colourful festival of Saint Vincent
Tournante honours the 22 January feast day
of St. Vincent, patron saint of wine (the
festival is held on the weekend closest to
the Saint’s Day). The event attracts
thousands to enjoy a choreographed
collaboration between the Brotherhood of
Tastevin, the Church and local wine making
societies.
In Beaune you’ll enjoy plenty of choice for
great restaurants and of course Boeuf
Bourguignon is a firm favourite as well as
coq au vin made with Burgundy wine – ideal
winter dishes.
Take a wine tasting: Sensation Vin in the
town, open year-round. Perfect for novices
or experts, and tastings are from 1.5 hours in
a 10th century cellar to a day in the
vineyards. (sensation-vin.com)
Wine and dine: Hotel Le Cep, an institution
in Beaune. Gastronomic dishes and 70
different wines by the glass in a historic 16th
century mansion (hotel-cep-beaune.com).
Stay at: Les Jardins de Lois, 5-minute walk
from the Hospices and town centre.
Authentic, cosy and tranquil B&B in a
characterful house with rooms named after
vineyards and owned by local wine makers

Arty
Party
Montpellier
Montpellier in the south of France has elevated
its arty status with the launch of MoCo –
Montpellier Contemporary in 2019. It’s been
called an art “ecosystem” and pulls three major
venues together to bring a diverse and
enormous range of contemporary art to the city,
as well as supporting and training artists. The
model is unique to Montpellier and makes this
city an irresistible lure for art lovers.
There’s something for all art fans here –
whether you like modern, classic or street art…

MOCO
There are two exhibitions and an art school
which make up the MOCO model. MOCO
Hotel des Collections is a brand new
exhibition centre which will present both
public and private collections in a series of
temporary exhibitions. Formerly the Hotel
Montcalm, a beautiful 19th century building,
the venue has a restaurant, boutique and
lovely gardens as well as hosting
international art.
La Panacée is one of the three venues which
make up MoCo. It’s located in the former
historic Royal College of Medicine and
specialises in emerging art. It’s exhibitions
are provocative, exciting and at times a bit
baffling but always fascinating.
It’s the perfect place to go for lunch as well
as enjoy the free art. It’s seriously trendy
and full of savvy locals who love the great
value menu, fabulous fresh local produce
and the fact that you can borrow books from
the shelves. Kids love it too, there are toys
and games for them to play with. On Sunday
morning, go for their famous brunch. Unlike
the rest of the week you can’t book in
advance so get there early to bag a table.
Ecole Supérieure des Beaux-Arts (ESBA), the
Montpellier art school trains the artists of
the future and encourages them to get
involved with the MOCO projects and the
city’s art programme.
For instance at the newly opened covered
market Halles Laissac. The vibrant stained
glass dome was designed by a student and
teacher team from ESBA.
Underneath it you’ll find a delicious array of
food including macarons made by a master
pâtissier, cheeses, Corsican specialities,
charcuterie and fresh baked bread.

There’s a bar here and one of the best things
about Halles Laissac is that you can buy your
food and then dine at the tables and chairs
provided inside and out, the perfect market
picnic.
Find details of all MOCO art exhibitions:
https://www.moco.art/en
Street art in Montpellier
There are two parts to Montpellier: the old
city and the new. Both are beautiful. But it’s
the old city that attracts most visitors to
discover its winding labyrinth of hilly
cobbled streets, festooned with bunting and
lined with chic boutiques, art galleries, bars,
cafés and restaurants. Book a guided tour
with the Tourist Office to discover the
secrets of the city and explore it’s most
beautiful streets and street art.
Don’t miss the colourful trompe l’oeil at
Place Edouard Adam near the market.
Created by artists Agnès and Olivier Costa, it
is extraordinary. And the optical illusion
trompe l’oeil at Place Saint Roche plays tricks
with your eyes. It reflects the 19th century
Church of Saint Roch, patron saint of
Montpellier and you can’t help but turn
around to check!
Musée Fabre
Founded in 1828 by artist François-Xavier
Fabre in what was his home and gallery, this
huge museum has a fabulous collection of
more than 800 works spanning several
centuries from 14th century religious art to
contemporary. Over the years the venue has
grown and now occupies three buildings.
They regularly partner with the Louvre for
exhibition swaps and put on temporary
exhibitions each year. There are several
enormous, provocative works by Pierre
Soulages, one of France’s greatest living
artists.

Eat out
Locals love: Café Joseph known to locals as
Café Jo. It’s good for lunch and even better
for dinner when lights twinkle overhead,
buskers perform in the animated square and
the air is filled with the sound of happy
chatter.
La Place: In a tiny square hidden in the
backstreets of Montpellier, Place Saint-Ravy
is a magnet for locals in the know. Once, the
Palace of the Kings of Majorca who, many
hundreds of years ago were also Lords of
Montpellier, stood here but now the
medieval buildings have been converted to
restaurants including La Place. Tables are
placed around a tinkling fountain while
upstairs the cool stone vaulted ceilings
provide an intimate dining area.
In this lively city, there’s no shortage of bars
to choose from. If you’re looking for a bar
with a relaxed vibe and great wine list,
L’Atelier Bar a Vin in the Place de la
Canourgue is hard to beat. Locals love it but
visitors rarely find this romantic square, the
oldest in Montpellier, from where you have a
wonderful view over the St Pierre Cathedral.
Any visit to Montpellier must include the
Place de la Comédie, the beating heart of the
city nicknamed L’Oeuf (the egg) thanks to its
oval shape. Here you’ll find Café Riche, an
institution as much for locals as for tourists,
and for people watching – it’s perfect.
Stay at: Hotel Oceania Le Metropole opened
in 1858 and a truly luxurious retreat. Its
exotic garden with palm tree lined swimming
pool and jacuzzi is perfect for unwinding
after a day of sightseeing. It’s just a couple of
minutes from the Place de la Comédie and
Montpellier train station.
Montpellier tourist office; UKFrancefr

Delightful Dinan
Brittany's medieval
Janine Marsh explores the wiggly, windy streets of one
of the prettiest towns in France...

The medieval town of Dinan in Cotes
d’Armor, Brittany, is like somewhere from
the imagination of the brothers Grimm with
its fairy tale pretty medieval streets guarded
by a castle and full of enchanting houses,
cobbled hills and pretty squares.
Surrounded by ramparts built between the
13th to 15th century, perched on a hill
above a gentle river with a pretty little port,
if you were to write a wish list for a fairy tale
town, Dinan would have it all.
Guide to Dinan
When I went in late spring, which is a great
time to go as you won’t find it too crowded,
it was unusually overcast for the time of
year, but not cold. The clouds didn’t matter,
this place is quite simply magical at any time
of the year. Quaint higgledy piggledy halftimbered
houses lean against one another,
they have been hugging for centuries, some
of them date back 700 years. Church bells
ring, birds sing in the trees and the town has
kept its medieval integrity by deliberately
limiting traffic lights and road signs so they
don’t spoil the views.
When you visit Dinan, wear comfy shoes and
be prepared to walk or you’ll miss the best of
it. Much of the town is pedestrianised which
makes it an absolute joy to wander. It’s hilly
in places. Rue du Jerzual for instance, which
half-way down becomes rue du Petit Fort.
It’s one of the most picturesque streets, and
the cobbles run from the top of the town to
the port along the river Rance. But, don't
worry about the steepness, there are plenty
of places to stop for a break, a meal and to
browse quaint artisan shops. The houses and
shops on this street have really wide
windowsills, The style dates back to the
middle ages. Then, people didn’t go into
shops, they bought from the window and the
shopkeepers used the sill as a countertop.

Around halfway down this hill, by the Porte
de Jerzual (the ancient city gate), is a
staircase to the remaining ramparts. It's open
to the public and great for a view over the
street and town. Most of the 2.7km of
ramparts are now privately owned. The city
council sold them off many years ago and
locals built houses on and against the old
city walls and walkways.
The old chateau of Dinan is now an
interesting museum about the history of the
town.
Every other July (even number years) the
Fete des Ramparts takes place in Dinan and
for three days the town goes medieval mad.
Parties, shows, music, festivals and - if you
dress up in medieval costume you’ll get free
entry to the shows. Visit when this event is
on and you might just feel like you stepped
into a time machine and got off in the 16th
century!
Get your bearings from on high. Climb to the
top of the 40m high Tour de l’Horloge to
enjoy spectacular views over Dinan and the
surrounding area. It’s said that on a clear day
you can see as far as Mont-Saint Michel.
Head to the square of Place des Merciers to
see some of the most beautiful houses and
shops and take a break in rue de la
Cordonnerie. The locals call this street
“thirsty street” (rue de la soif) as there are so
many bars!
On Thursday mornings, Dinan’s weekly
market is held on the place du Guesclin
There’s been a market here since the 1300s
and today it’s a vibrant, colourful event
where the wonderful smells of spices, fresh
fruit and street food vie for attention
alongside stalls selling blooming flowers,
pongy cheese and local products.

Head behind the Basilica of Saint-Sauveur (a
very short walk from the centre of town) for
the most remarkable views over the river.
Afterwards visit the church (12th-15th
century) to discover a legend. Saint-Sauveur
Basilica holds the heart of a French hero -
Bertrand du Guesclin. Born in Brittany about
1320, it’s said he was so ugly his family
disowned him. He became a soldier and
when Dinan was besieged by the English in
the 100 Years War he defended the town
with his brother Olivier. An English soldier,
Sir Thomas Canterbury, kidnapped and
ransomed the unarmed Olivier when he took
a walk in the countryside and Du Guesclin
fought for the return of his brother. He won
and the English withdrew their forces.
He later became a Constable of France
(military leader) which some Bretons
considered a traitorous move because
Brittany was not part of France at the time
and they were often at war. Du Guesclin
requested that when he died he be buried in
Dinan. But his remains were taken to the
Basilica of St Denis in Paris where French
Royals were interred. though his heart, was
taken to Dinan. It’s position is marked with a
gold heart.
In front of the Basilica is a square with a few
bars and restaurants, it’s a quieter part of
Dinan, largely frequented by the locals as
visitors don’t know it’s here.
Boat trip on the river Rance
One of the prettiest places in Dinan is the
port area. Ancient stone houses, shops and
bars look onto the lofty Lanvalley-Dinan
Viaduct which was inaugurated in 1852.
Hop aboard the Jaman V boat to cruise the
river Rance. You can buy tickets at the
tourist office or the ticket kiosk when its
open – it’s at a brown cube like hut, next to
les Terraces restaurant at the bottom of rue
du Petit Fort.

This hour long trip will take you under the
viaduct and down to the little town of
Léhon. An audio guide is available in English
and full of fun facts such as how donkeys
used to pull the barges along, but when one
wasn’t available, the boatmen’s wives would
have to do it! The riverbank is filled with
flowers and fauna, including an exotic
Japanese plant which looks like a giant
rhubarb. First planted in 1917 by a gardener
from Léhon, it has colonised the banks of
the river.
You can also take a boat to and from Saint
Malo to Dinan, or a dinner cruise.
Details: vedettesjamanv.com
Take a wander to neighbouring
Léhon
Walk to the peaceful little village of Léhon
along the riverbanks of the Rance from
Dinan which takes around 30 minutes.
Léhon is a classified “town of Character”
first settled by the Roman army 2000 years
ago. In fact it’s much older than Dinan which
was only founded around 1000 years ago.
It’s a very pretty little town and worth
visiting to see the 12th century castle
ruins – allegedly the oldest castle in Brittany,
and the Abbey Saint-Magloire. Legend has it
that Welsh monks arrived here in the 9th
century and, wanting to settle, asked the
King of Brittany for land. He required them
to bring him some relics to place in the
church they intended to build. In a
remarkably un-Christian display, they looted
the relics from monks on the island of Sark
and returned triumphant with their spoils to
claim the land.
The abbey architecture dates to the 11th
century onwards. Don’t miss the little tower
by the river in which monks were allowed to
drink a glass of wine and smoke a pipe on
Sundays. Regular art exhibitions are hosted
here and there are pretty gardens.

Where to eat in Dinan
Just wander the cobbled streets, you'll find
plenty of choice. There are also lots of
restaurants along the river Rance, many with
terraces overlooking the Viaduct offering
great views.
Le Colibri: A smashing little bistro with a
lovely early 20th century vibe interior. The
food is sublime – seasonal, fresh and
innovative classics and the chefs work
closely with local producers. If you love
great food – go here.
La Fontaine du Jerzual, on arguably
Brittany’s prettiest street, is a creperie,
brasserie and tea salon. Enjoy traditional
Breton crepes at this lovely restaurant that’s
loved by the locals. It’s in a beautiful
location, is comfy and stylish inside with a
big terrace area for sunny days. It’s not
expensive, the staff are friendly and they do
a great Kir Breton!
Where to stay in Dinan
Maison Pavie B&B is truly special. Built in the
15th century. This listed building is simply
exquisite from its half-timbered, arcaded
exterior to its elegant interior with ancient
wood floors. There are lots of original
features but you’ll find it has all mod cons:
big, luxurious bathrooms, sitting room
overlooking the square with its looming
Basilica. Owner Jérôme who is also a
marvellous cook (guests can dine here)
bought the building in 2010 and had it
renovated to a luxury level with interior
design good looks. The house is named after
a former owner, French diplomat and
explorer Auguste Pavie.
Useful websites
www.dinan-capfrehel.com
Brittany Tourism

Get off the usual tourist trail and take a
walk on the spooky side of the city of
light. Paris has plenty of eerie and some
frankly weird places to visit. Here’s how
to take a spine- tingling tour of Paris
from an ancient burial site with the
bones of 6 million people to a haunted
manor house…

Catacombes de Paris
Head 20 metres underground to the extraordinary
Catacombes de Paris, home to the bones of some 6
million people. Stroll through a macabre maze of
dimly lit galleries and narrow passageways in the
largest ossuary in the world. In the late 18th century,
Louis XVI sanctioned the removal of bones from the
city’s cemeteries which were so packed that they
were a health hazard. One of them, the cemetery of
the Holy Innocents had been in use for 10 centuries.
Bones were taken to the site, a former quarry and
stacked in the galleries. By 1809 the catacombs
were opened to the public for visits and now receive
more than half a million people a year.
catacombes.paris.fr/
Père-Lachaise Cemetery
You might not think this a fun place to visit but it is a
beautiful cemetery with walkways made for
strolling. Here you’ll find the graves of celebrities
like Oscar Wilde, whose tomb is protected from fans
keen to kiss the stone which could cause damage,
Jim Morrison of The Doors (there have been several
claims of his ghost being seen) and Frederic Chopin
(though his heart is in a church in Warsaw). In the
centre of the cemetery is the impressive mausoleum
of Russian baroness Élisabeth Démidoff. According
to legend, after she died in 1818, the wealthy, if
slightly nutty aristocrat stated in her will that if
anyone could spend 366 days locked in her tomb
watching over her, they would inherit a fortune.
Food and water would be passed to them through a
grill and waste removed that way. Apparently many
people took up the challenge and no one succeeded.
Her tomb has now been sealed up…
Traces of a guillotine
In 1851 until 1899 a guillotine was placed on the
corner of Rue de la Croix-Faubin, near 166 bis Rue
de la roquette in front of the Prison Grand Roquette.
The dreaded machine was used to behead prisoners.
If you go there now, you might notice that in the
road are five slabs of stone embedded in the
tarmac – this is where the guillotine was installed…

Musée de la préfecture de police
Unlike the Crime Museum at Scotland yard in
London (AKA the Black Museum) the Paris
museum of crime is open to the public. In the
5th arrondissement, the Musée de la
Préfecture de Police, on the 3rd floor of the
police station retraces the history of
criminology from the 17th century to the
present. There are 2000 exhibits which reflect
a sorry tale of murder, swindles and scams
over the centuries. A collection of weapons,
photos, official paperwork, and even the peep
hole through which serial killer Dr. Petiot
watched his victims die in agony. People
who’ve visited this museum say it made them
shudder!
Musée des moulages de l’hôpital
Saint-Louis
Photo: Ella Crowley
The fact that children under the age of 12
can’t enter the Musée des Moulages is a hint
that this unusual museum isn’t like the others.
It’s home to a unique collection of 4807
medical wax casts. Faces and body parts of
captured for eternity in wax clearly revealing
their afflictions. Warts, fungus and worse in
incredibly lifelike form. This as to be one of
the most stomach churning collections in the
world.
hopital-saintlouis
Le Manoir de Paris
If you like fun with your scare, you’ll love this
walk-though haunted house near the Gare du
Nord train station in the 10th Arr.
Interactive shows with actors take you on a
journey through the house in search of a
victim… you’ll meet the Man in the Iron Mask
and Quasimodo amongst others. At
Halloween, this is one of the most popular
places in Paris!
www.lemanoirdeparis.fr/

Janine marsh explores the Côtes d’Armor and
discovers a dramatically beautiful coastline of
legends, secret islands, beautiful beaches and
fabulous food...

Someone once said that the great rocks that
pepper the landscape of the pink granite
coast look as if giants have been stoning
their enemies. Monumental boulders, cleft
from the earth and shaped by the sea are
one of the most astonishing and memorable
features of this divine stretch of coast in the
Côtes d’Armor department, Brittany.
They are everywhere from the beach to the
cliff tops and even in residential gardens.
Often homes are simply built around the
rocks - not just because they’re very heavy
and hard to move but also because they’re
revered by the locals.
Thousands of years of being licked by the
sea, blasted by wind and rained on, have left
them shaped like animals or people and
many have names such as the witch, the
tortoise and the corkscrew. When you see
them for yourself, you can’t fail to appreciate
the grandeur of these natural phenomena –
and make up some names of your own.
With hundreds of hamlets, seaside towns
and pretty villages it’s hard to know where to
go. If you have plenty of time, you can follow
the GR34 coastal route which runs all the
way round the shoreline of Brittany. But if
you’re restricted to a few days or weeks,
here are some of the most unmissable parts
of the Pink Granite Coast where you’re likely
to fall in love with the ever changing sky, the
delicious cuisine, endless beaches, luscious
countryside, hotels of charm and character
(www.hotelscharmebretagne.com) magical
forests and friendly folk…

Ploumanac’h - Perros-Guirec
Perros-Guirec has some of the best rock
formations on the Pink Granite Coast. You’ll
find blush pink rocks, waves crashing gently,
and a sleepy seaside village. From here you
have a wonderful view of the Sept Iles, the
seven islands, including one which looks like
it has a snowy cap but is in fact inhabited by
wild birds. It’s gets very popular in the
summer months with pretty little restaurants
and bars. Don’t miss a look at the saint on
the sand after whom the Bay of St Guirec is
named. He was an Irish monk who landed
here in the 6th century and you’ll see that
his face is damaged. It used to be a custom
for Breton girls to visit him and stick a pin in
his nose which was apparently to help them
get a husband - eventually the poor saint
lost his nose. Climb out to Ploumanac’h
lighthouse for wonderful views over the sea
- though if you have mobility issues it
probably won’t suit as the path is rocky and
uneven.

Don’t miss: Head a few miles inland to visit
the Vallée des Saints. Many visitors miss this
but it’s well worth seeking out. Huge granite
statues of saints are spread across a hilltop.
It’s an ongoing project with the aim to have
1000 saints in total and you can watch the
carvers working on their sculptures. It’s
massively impressive.
Where to stay:
Hotel Ti Al Lannec in Trebeuden, a tranquil
coastal town: Nothing beats staying in this
old granite mansion on top of a hill with a
private pathway down to the beach. It has
lovey sea views, elegant but cosy sitting
rooms, a fabulous spa area, pool with
stunning views, and a terrific restaurant. The
rooms are individually designed, it’s
boutique but authentic and utterly charming.
The views from the rooms are to die for. The
staff are fabulous. This is old school glamour
but with a deft personal touch that’s rare -
the staff know all the guests names, there so
much attention to detail here. It’s a family
run hotel with the charming Isabelle her
sister Marie plus mum and dad, making you
feel really welcome, relaxed and utterly
spoiled.
There is nothing ordinary about this hotel,
it’s one to fall in love with.
www.tiallannec.com
Paimpol and the Ile de Brehat
Pretty Paimpol was once a major departure
point for fishermen working in Icelandic
waters. Famous French writer Pierre Loti set
his novel Pêcheur d’Islande here but today
the former fishing port is all about leisure
and boats. There are plenty of restaurants
and bars but despite its growing popularity it
still feels tranquil and sleepy. Take the road
south from Paimpol to discover the Beauport
Abbey, romantic 13th century ruins set in
beautiful countryside where you can sit in an
orchard and simply enjoy the moment – or a
picnic.

From Paimpol you can take a 10 minute boat
ride to the Ile de Brehat, known as paradise
island for good reason. Actually a series of
islets set around two small car free islands
which at low tide are joined by an 18th
century built bridge. Take a 10 minute boat
ride from the Pointe de l’Arcouest to
discover pink rocks, mimosa, oleander,
myrtle and figs growing in the open – it
hardly rains here apparently! There are
pretty villas, a church and chapel and
restaurants joined by a labyrinth of paths.
Where to stay
Ker Moor Hotel in Saint-Quay-Portieux is
built around a 19th century house with an
astonishing onion-shaped domed roof, it’s a
landmark in the area. Right on the GR34, it
has a private path down to the sea with
unique panoramic views over the Saint
Brieuc Bay in Paimpol.
From the hotel it’s a short walk to a sandy
beach (there are five in the town) and there’s
a popular free to use sea water pool on the
beach. There are also two ports - one of
which is northern Brittany’s biggest deepwater
harbour.
The hotel rooms are light and sunny and the
people who work there are lovely – the sort
that make your holiday feel really special.
The hotel team know where all the best
restaurants are (ask them where to go for
oysters) and will make you feel very
welcomed.
Hotel Les Agapanthes in the small coastal
town of Ploubazanec is run by a Parisian
couple who gave up city life, unable to resist
the lure of the area where they took their
holidays. The little town has a charming port
and isn’t remotely touristy. In nearby Pors-
Even you’ll find a quaint little village with a
cute little seafood restaurant which serves
the freshest oysters and best moules frites
you’re ever likely to taste.
Tourist Office: www.cotesdarmor.com

The bay of Saint-Brieuc and Cap
Frehel
The tides at Saint-Brieuc go out an
astonishing 7km, leaving the beach teeming
with shellfish. Not surprisingly restaurants
here are well known for their sea food,
especially coquilles Saint-Jacques, one of the
specialities of the bay. Port du Légué at the
entry of the bay is home to grand ship
owners houses. From here you can take a
boat ride, enjoy the view from the cliffs and
watch the wildlife, there are more than 112
species here at Brittany’s biggest nature
reserve.
Cap Frehel, about 50 minutes’ drive from
Saint Brieuc and just 30 minutes from Saint
Malo, is a wild, dramatic and unspoiled area.
Imposing cliffs offer stunning views over the
sea and it’s no surprise to discover that
French visitors rate this one of the top places
to visit in Brittany. Covered in colourful
heathland, smothered in wildflowers and
fauna, Cap Frehel lighthouse is one of the
most powerful in France.
The 14th century Fort La Latte, also known
as the Chateau de Roche Goyon, is one of
Brittany’s most famous castles. It’s very
“Game of Thrones” – dramatically perched
on the edge of the cliffs with sheer drops. It’s
a bit of a hike to get to it and the steps
leading into some of the viewing rooms
aren’t good for those with mobility issues,
but the views are stunning. Some eagle-eyed
oldies may recognise the castle from the Film
The Vikings (1958) starring Kirk Douglas and
Tony Curtis.
Information: www.dinan-capfrehel.com;
www.hotelscharmebretagne.com

Where to stay:
Hotel Edgar in Saint Brieuc is in a former
ship captains house in the inner town of
Saint-Brieuc, about 4km from the sea. It’s a
busy town with plenty of shops and some
fine old houses and streets. At 5, rue Fardel
you’ll see the Hotel des Ducs de Bretagne,
where King James II of England hid after he
lost his throne to William of Orange in 1688.
and which makes a good base for exploring
the area. This boutique 25 room hotel is a
great base with a fabulous restaurant. I’d go
here for the amazing food alone.
Chef Sebastien David is from Le Bristol in
Paris and his divine menu will have guests
coming from miles around once word gets
out. The menu is regional with pride of place
going to local, fresh and seasonal products.
The verbena ice cream was genius, the best
ice cream I’ve ever had – and I’ve had a lot.
The rooms are big and roomy with luxurious
bathrooms. The hotel has undergone a room
by room renovation with Farrow and Ball
paints and stunning wallpaper by Arté of
Belgium but keeping its original charm and
bucket loads of comfort.

If you're not mad keen on skiing but you love the beauty of the snowy French alps
in winter, why not try something new says Lucy Pitts as she explores Les Arcs
I love the mountains and snow, but I’m not a
great skier. So, while I’m always delighted to
tag along on a ski holiday, there’s only so
many pistes that my nerves and my knees
can take. I don’t necessarily want to miss out
on the pine forests and beauty, but I’m
always on the lookout for something “off
piste” and a bit different. And in fact, this
year, I opted for an altogether different
experience, going all-inclusive at the new
Club Med Panorama in Arc 1600.
Club Med
The Club Med Panorama is almost brand
new having opened in December 2018 in
the Les Arcs Paradiski region. As you’d
expect, it’s got pretty much everything you
could expect and beyond with snacks and
drinks waiting for you as you ski off the
piste, food and drink of every description
and an endless supply of jollity and
entertainment. And, of course, kids’ ski
classes and a locker service that’ll have your
kit ready to hit the slopes the moment you
arrive. If you’re here with your family, they
really have got all bases covered!
Skiing into Spring
Spring skiing is a relatively new concept
which the region is trying to promote, and it
makes a lot of sense. Covering the period
from the end of March to the end of April,
there’s still plenty of snow to be had with the
added advantage of much warmer days,
lighter evenings and less people on the
slopes. I was amazed that in early April, I
quite often had the slopes to myself which
makes it a great time for beginners or
families with young children to ski.

Balades a Raquettes
In my search for off piste adventure, I
headed into the forest to give snow shoeing
a try. Snow-shoeing is diverse, brilliant fun
and not as hard as you may think. You need
a good pair of boots (which you can hire
from Club Med) and a guide who will supply
you with snow-shoes and poles.
My first guide was Antoine who offers a
whole host of snow-shoeing and hiking
activities (www.baladesducolporteur.com), .
You can snow-shoe for as little as an hour or
for a whole week. There’s a wonderful day
long snow-shoe hike which involves a
fondue lunch at an Alpine chalet. There’s
also night snow-shoeing and an overnight
option to sleep in a log cabin in the
mountains.
Antoine’s style is pretty relaxed. He clearly
knows these mountains and their heritage
well, and he’ll soon have you snow-jumping,
and bouncing down steep descents which
you never thought you’d be capable of.
Although perhaps his most impressive feat is
producing a large and delicious cake from his
backpack along with hot tea at 2,000m!
With Mont Blanc in the distance, you can
walk in the Mont Blanc forest, in the
Beaufortain mountains opposite Les Arcs
and up the Petit St Bernard pass along the
French Italian border. Antoine caters for
varying levels of fitness and stops often – to
point out a bird, a particular tree or a
mountain. And nothing beats the fact that
you’re high up and off the beaten track, in
amongst the pines, listening to the silence of
the snowy mountains.
My second guide, Marie was much more
spiritual (Facebook: Marie.Randos). A
botanist, Marie’s style of snow shoeing
resembled Nordic walking as she taught us
to use our poles and ensure we got a full
body work out. Marie explained the energy
of the forest, the detail of the botany and we
stopped to practice Qigong, yoga and
meditation along the way. It was just as
enjoyable as snow-shoeing with Antoine but

La Passerelle
With its peak at over 3226m, the Aiguille
Rouge is the highest peak in the Paradiski
valley, and they’ve just installed a breathtaking
viewing platform, La Passerelle.
To get there, you just take the Varet cable
car from Arc 2000 – although check the
weather first because it’s not always open.
At the top, you feel like you’re stepping into
air as you enjoy 360-degree views across the
top of the mountains. But beware, it’s cold at
the top – even if it’s warm and sunny below!
Getting back to high octane
If you’re not sure you want to spend a whole
week in the peaceful serenity of the
mountains on foot, don’t despair:
Dog sledding
From December to April, you can go dog
sledding with a team of Alaskan Huskies,
including a discovery trip and night rides.
en.paradisled.com/
Tobogganing galore
And how does 3 km of toboggan track with
banked turns, alternating fast and sliding
sections sound? Impossibly hard for the
beginner (I seemed to do most of it
backwards), you do need a valid lift pass but
it makes an interesting change to skiing!
www.lesarcs-peiseyvallandry.ski
France-montagnes.com; UKFrancefr

And relax at the Nama Springs
Tucked away in Eden Arc 1800m, is the
Nama Springs spa, with a hammam, four
different saunas, a salt flotation pool and
two outdoor pools. On a cold day, be
warned that while swimming in the snow is
wonderful, you’ll need nerves of steel to
strip off and dance through the ice to get in
and out of the pool.
Best lunch recommendation
Chalet de l’Arc (Arc 2000). The joy of Les
Arcs is that it’s largely pedestrianised and
you can walk to this altitude restaurant
across the slopes. It’s set in an original farm
building and oozes local charm. The portion
sizes are gigantean and the local speciality
“Le Chausson du Boulanger” (particularly Le
Savoyard one made with cabbage, sour
cream, Beaufort cheese and sausage) is a
must. Although, you will never fit into your
salopettes again!
By the time you feel ready to roll down the
mountain, it’ll be time to head back to Club
Med for a 4-course dinner! But at least with
all the activities you’ve done, you feel like
you’ve earned it!
You can find out more about Les Arcs, visit
www.france-montagnes.com

in
Boulogne-sur-Mer
Boulogne-sur-Mer is where you’ll
find a beautifully preserved old
town and the Basilica Notre Dame
which has the longest crypt in
France (dating back to Roman
times). Cobble stone streets,
ancient buildings, a chateau
museum, quirky shops and fab
restaurants – and don’t miss the
UNESCO listed Belfry where you’ll
see cannon balls fired on the town
by King Henry VIII.
Julius Caesar took off from here to
invade England in 55BC, Napoleon
mustered an Armada for the same
purpose centuries later, the
history of Boulogne-sur-Mer is
long and rich. There plenty to do
and see in the lively town and
close by. Janine Marsh explores
the secrets of the port city….

Historic centre
Looking like something out of a film set,
Boulogne-sur-Mer's Ville Haute, a perfectly
preserved medieval city, is a must-see.
Head to the tourist office to find out what’s
on in town and climb the UNESCO listed
Belfry which dates back to the 12th century.
There are 183 steps going right to the top
from where there are stunning views over
the city. The tower contains a museum of
Celtic remains dating from the Roman
occupation of the City and cannon balls fired
on the city by Henry VIII when he laid siege
to the town in 1544. the inhabitants closed
the gate, Porte de Degrés and it stayed that
way until 1895! Now you can walk through
the gates, climb the stairs and stroll around
the ancient, boulevard-wide ramparts.
Guided tours are provided in both English
and French languages.
There are seventeen towers around the
ramparts and from Gayette tower, near the
Porte des Dunes, you’ll spot a plaque
dedicated to Pilatre de Rozier, the first
person to fly a Montgolfier balloon over
Paris. In 1785 he attempted to cross the
Channel from the ramparts. It was not
successful; he is buried at Wimille a little way
around the coast.
Basilica Notre-Dame
The Basilica of Notre-Dame in the old town
is astonishing. Built on the site of other
churches dating to AD636, it doesn’t matter
what your beliefs are, this place is unique,
unusual and utterly fascinating. Taking a
pinch from Rome’s Pantheon, London’s St
Paul’s Cathedral and Les Invalides in Paris it
was designed by a priest with no
architectural experience – and it is
magnificent.

There is a brass hand in the church and
visitors are invited to place their hands over
it and pray for a miracle. Inside it is a sliver
of wood said to come from a statue of the
Virgin Mary which, legend claims, was
pushed ashore at Boulogne-sur-Mer by
Angels.
In 1477, Louis XI declared it a "true
Madonna", and the relic bought pilgrims and
Kings to the town. Alas the statue was
destroyed in the French Revolution, only the
slither remains. The walls of the church are
adorned with plaques sent by those who
prayed here and were granted their wish.
The crypt is astounding and enormous. In
fact it's one of the biggest in France at over
100m long and truly beautiful. Decorated in
Romanesque style, the walls are covered
with frescoes and there are precious relics
on display. Here Edward II of England
married Isabelle of France in 1308. Their son
Edward III later started the 100 years war.
Market
The Saturday morning market at Place
Dalton is buzzing and has plenty of stalls
selling local produce wicker baskets, tablecloths
and more. (Also held Wednesday
though not quite as big). Take a break in one
of the many cafés on the square.
If you love cheese, nip to Philippe Olivier's
famed fromagerie, just follow your nose as
this shop stocks all your smelly favourites!
Just down the road you’ll find the former
home of Argentinian-born General José
Francisco de San Martín y Matorras. Better
known as José de San Martín, he liberated
Argentina (1816), Chile (1817) and Peru
(1812) from Spanish rule and is considered
the “Father of Argentina”. He lived in this
house from 1848 until his death in 1850 and
it is today a museum and a place that
honours his memory. Read more about it
here…

Chateau Museum
The Chateau Comtal was built during the
medieval period but its foundations date
back to Roman times and it was
strengthened by Louis XIV’s military
engineer the great Vauban. Napoleon III was
imprisoned here in 1840 and after WWI the
body of the British Unknown Soldier lay
here in state on the way to be buried in
Westminster Abbey. It is now home to a
museum displaying many artefacts that
include an Egyptian art collection. It’s a little
dated but good for a rainy day visit and
there are some fascinating exhibitions.
Nausicaa
Nausicaa, the National Sea centre of France
is listed by UNESCO as a “Center of
Excellence”. It opened a brand new state of
the art extension in spring 2018 which has
made it one of the largest aquariums in the
world, certainly the biggest in Europe – and
it is spectacular.
Giant tanks fill the new space and we mean
giant. The “Big Tank” holds 10,000m³ of
water – that’s enough water to fill four
Olympic swimming pools. It is an awesome
sight. You can walk right up to it and come
face to face with shark, manta rays and
shoals of fish. Or you can sit and watch,
mesmerised, from benches in front of the
tank, it’s strangely relaxing and hypnotic.
There are almost 60,000 creatures, 1,600
species, living in the huge underwater world
of Nausicaa, as well as a few above water
too including penguins. The oldest resident is
a sand tiger shark and the biggest resident is
the wonderfully intelligent sea lion Speedy. It
takes 7km of piping to move all the water
round, a massive 17,000 m³ in total.
You’ll often spot divers in the tanks cleaning
the copious amount of glass with sharks, sea
lions and fish of all sorts swishing close by.
You get a real feel for what life is like under
the ocean.

Beach
Breezy for sure but the long sandy beach is
great for a breath of fresh air – in fact
Charles Dickens came here for the sea air
and stayed for three years, bringing his
family out to join him. He claimed it was his
“favourite watering hole in France”.
It was once a very popular beach though less
so now and in the 1700s hordes of Britons
flocked to Boulogne to enjoy the sea air and
the laissez faire attitude of the locals. If the
tide is out, wander to the Napoleonic fort on
the beach at Le Portel and collect mussels
for your dinner as people have for centuries.
Climb Napoleon’s column
Napoleon Bonaparte spent three years in
Boulogne planning an invasion of England.
He stayed in a mansion called the Imperial
Palace, now a university building, at the
Place Godefroy de Bouillon,
Napoleon built 2000 boats and was so sure
of success he had a victory column erected.
His ambitions didn’t go to plan, but the
colonnade remains, topped by a statue of the
Emperor. You can climb the 296 stairs for a
fabulous view across the Channel with the
White Cliffs of Dover clearly visible on a fine
day. A short walk away, a stone marks the
spot where Napoleon issued the first Legion
d’Honneur, in fact 2000 of them, sat on a
throne, surrounded by 100,000 soldiers.
If you’ve no head for heights check out the
little museum at the base of the Column
which is full of fascinating documents,
medals and the original Napoleon statue
which was damaged by bombs in WWII.
La maison de la beuriere
Step back in time at an authentic ancient
mariner’s cottage. Climb the steps up the rue
du Machicoulis, near Nausicaa, and you’ll
find a fisherman’s 19th century house
furnished, and with staff dressed in costume.

Eat out
Enjoy the local favourite, mussels and chips,
at any number of restaurants here, its
France’s biggest fishing port so as you’d
expect – fish features high on the menu.
Rue de Lille with Place Godefroy Bouillon
(named after a local lord who departed from
the port of Boulogne in 1096 to lead the
first Crusade and was made King of
Jerusalem) at one end and the Basilica at the
other end, is lined with shops and
restaurants, some of which are open all day.
Wine & Dine: La Matelote. Father and son
chef team Tony and Stellio Lestienne (above)
cook the most classic dishes as well as
delicious and innovative food. The
restaurant has held a Michelin star for an
astonishing 40 years and is famous for its
seafood platters. It’s also a lovely hotel with
great views over the harbour. www.lamatelote.com
Authentic and fishy: Le Chatillon. Rub
shoulders with fishermen, port workers and
sailors at the legendary and authentic Le
Chatillon. This quirky restaurant, decked out
to look like a ship with wood panelled walls,
ships lamps and sails on the ceiling is wellknown
to the French for its fishy melange
called “Parillada”, mixed grilled fish and
seafood marinated in garlic and olive oil. The
bar opens at 04.00 and it’s a firm favourite
with locals for the fresh and very tasty food
and great prices. Check the website for
details (the restaurant is closed Saturdays)
and book in advance if you can as this place
is very popular with locals. Find it in the
fishing district called Capécure. www.Le-
Chatillon.com
Locals love: Chez Jules, Place Dalton where
the market is held.
Aperitif hour...
The Vole Hole in rue de Lille is tiny but
perfect, housed in the oldest building in the
town, the little wine bar with friendly staff
has tables spilling onto the pavement
opposite the Basilica.

£49

Strolling
through the
Dordogne
Valley...
Amy McPherson goes
walkabout....

Perhaps all journeys through the Dordogne
Valley should start with stuffing yourself
with punnets of freshly picked strawberries.
At least, that’s how I began my exploration
of the Dordogne Valley’s beautiful villages…
I had arrived in Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne on
the day of the town’s Fete de la Fraise, the
strawberry festival that celebrates, well,
strawberries.
Straddling the moss green waters of the
Dordogne, Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne turned
out to be the perfect introduction to what
was to come in the next few days, for I was
about to embark on a self-guided walk
through the Dordogne Valley with On Foot
Holidays.
A land shaped by a river
The Dordogne Valley, in the region of
Nouvelle-Aquitaine south western France,
just to the east of Bordeaux, is named after
the river that runs through it. Dotted with
storybook villages filled with history, I was
eager to discover every corner of the
limestone cliffs and ancient castles that I had
heard so much about.
To get acquainted with the river, I boarded a
traditional Gabare – a flat bottomed boat –
and found myself charmed by the river. The
captain proudly declared to be the “most
beautiful river in the world!”
Some might argue that beauty is in the eye
of the beholder, as the Dordogne lacks the
wildness of the Loire and the electric glacial
blue of the Rhone. It’s certainly not
considered an ‘exciting’ river, yet there is a
certain calmness and serenity about the
gentle flow westwards towards the Atlantic
Ocean that draws you in.
Fuelled by strawberries and the comforting
knowledge that my luggage would be safely
transported to my accommodation for the
night, I set off on my journey.

The Dordogne flows 472km from Massif
Central to the Gironde estuary in a westward
direction, and has been part of a designated
Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO since 2012.
Being mostly navigable, the Dordogne is
known for the traditional trade boats called
Gabare, which transported wood one way
towards the coast to trade for salt, fish and
other coastal goods.
Beautiful villages galore
With only four days to discover the area, the
village of Autoire is where I began my walk,
instead of Beaulieu. My route would have
me pretty much following the curves of the
Dordogne, in and out of valley beds, up and
down the steep cliffs, through farmlands and
villages that may or may not register as a dot
on Google Maps.
My guide and driver dropped me off in the
medieval centre of Autoire before
disappearing with my luggage towards
Carennac. Just like Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne,
this is another village part of the Plus Beaux
Village de France collection, and is certainly
as pretty as a painting.
I followed the route map and soon found
myself in narrow valley tracks heading
towards a waterfall, before ascending a
steep rocky path up to Chateau des Anglais
(which has nothing to do with the English as
it turns out). It clings onto the cliff face like
an eagles nest.
Without being on foot, I would not have
discovered these locations let alone being
able to enjoy the vantage point the chateau
offers of the surrounding valley.
It was the most perfect of days, with
cloudless blue sky against the verdant hills,
clusters of villages below. At merely an hour
into my journey I was already smitten.
What appeals to me about self-guided
walking, is that I am able to be a little bit
independent. While the walking pack
provided the most updated maps and
directions, I enjoy the process of getting lost,
then finding my way again. The ability to
choose, when you feel like it, a longer or a
shorter path, can reveal different
experiences to the traveller.

"Deer, foxes, rabbits and even an
owl accompanied me...."
Given the option, I almost always chose the
wilder route. This took me on walks among
forests and meadows so I could be as close to
the wild as possible. I was alone, yes, but not
as alone as you would think. Nature was all
around me and the air rich in the scent of
acacias and roses. Bees buzzed, butterflies
fluttered. Buzzards circled above my head
and the forest echoed with the knocking of
woodpeckers. Deer, foxes, rabbits and even
an owl accompanied me along my walk.
Though some may worry about the concept
of ‘self-guided’ walks, there’s nothing to fear.
At the beginning of my walk, I
conscientiously checked and over-checked
the directions and maps in case I took the
wrong turn. However, just a day into my
walk, I let go of the need to control and
simply followed the hiking tracks posted
along trees and telegraph posts. I only
checked my guide text occasionally to
confirm details.
There is something very special being able to
walk alone through storybook forests, cliff
top tracks and country paths lined with moss
covered stone walls. Passing in and out of
communes so quaint and quiet, the crunch of
my hiking boots on gravel seem to penetrate
every window of a sleepy village. Through
this journey along the route of the river, I
relished being completely immersed into such
a beautiful, rural part of France.
Having stayed in the cute La Petite Auberge
in Carennac, my tour took me to Floirac
before progressing into Meyronne to stay in
an old castle right on the bank of the river.
From here I was able to take a close look at
the river and the surrounding limestone cliffs.
What a sight.
My walk eventually ended at the impressive
village of Rocamadour, with its grand
Rocamadour (right) is on the pilgrimage
route 'Way of St James' is a place of religious
importance, it's believed miracles happen
here. The 216 steps leading to the medieval
complex of churches, chapels and courtyards
is hard on the knees but worth the effort...
Of all its history and stories, I found myself
most intrigued by the small chapel
dedicated to injured rugby players in this
area famous for its love of rugby.
At dinner on the balcony of my hotel,
watching the evening sun wash the cliff
golden red, I felt a sense of
accomplishment. There is much more to
discover in the Dordogne Valley, but in
slow and steady steps, I got to know it
intimately, and the experience was truly
soul lifting.
Amy McPherson was hosted by www.
onfootholidays.co.uk

Destination:
Mulhouse

Amazing Museums and an arty vibe, Janine
Marsh discovers the Alsatian city is
undergoing a metamorphosis…

Mulhouse in Alsace in the northeast of
France is a master of reinvention. It was
once a flourishing textile and manufacturing
town but globalisation of industry has
brought change - and for Mulhouse that
means change too. The city is undergoing a
metamorphosis - but with a nod to its
powerful past. It boasts world’s biggest car
museum, an incredible train museum,
electricity museum and more.
Former factories are being converted into
restaurants and artists residences. Streets
are being adorned with street art. Pop up
shops with original clothes and accessories
you won’t find anywhere else are making
their mark.
This city has a buzz about it, It’s thriving
once more thanks to major support for its
artistic community – with the largest artists’
residence in France - and it’s love for culture
and heritage…
Cité de l’Automobile
There are over 400 cars at the immense car
museum in Mulhouse. Car enthusiasts come
from around the world to see some of the
rare cars on display. When I went a Russian
visitor told me he’d come from Moscow to
see the cars and had spent three days there!
There are incredibly well preserved
masterpieces from cars of the 1870s to the
1970s mostly, though there are also some
awesome racing cars that are more modern.
Priceless Bugatti’s take centre stage,
gleaming and sleek, they’re as rare as hens
teeth.
Hire a classic car (I chose a Ferrari!) to drive
round the private track at the museum, take
the kids to enjoy a go kart track, games and
workshops. There’s so much here, you can
spend an entire day at this one - and
probably a lot more!
www.citedelautomobile.com/

Cité du Train
The train museum of Mulhouse has the
biggest collection of trains in the world.
There are locomotives from the 1840’s
through to the newer steam and diesel and
electric trains that are in use to this day.
The exhibits are interactive and impressive.
Take the petit train round the museum
which is monumental, ride on a diesel train
on the museum’s private track and take a
train ride in the open air on a miniature
railway. Whatever your age, this museum is
huge fun.
www.citedutrain.com
EDF Electropolis Museum
A museum dedicated to electricity? Yes!
Electroplois is the biggest of its kind in
Europe and it’s fascinating. There’s a
working steam generator from 1901, and an
exhibition which covers early experiments
conducted from the 17th century up to
modern day. There’s lots of vintage
machinery to admire too, Voss’s electrostatic
machine, Edison’s Dictaphone, and early
versions of TV’s and fridges. There are also
lectures and workshops – invited to stand in
a cage and have my hair stand on end, who
could possibly resist!
www.musee-electropolis.fr
Parc Zoologique et Botanique
Founded in 1868 and covering over 20
hectares of the Tannenwald Forest,
Mulhouse zoo contains over 1000 animals of
more than 170 different species. The artic
area is home to the polar bears and artic
foxes, the large enclosures are home to the
Siberian tigers, snow leopards and meerkats.
The botanical gardens are heavenly and
calm, in the summer months over 400 types
of Iris flowers bloom beautifully alongside
exotic trees from Japan and America.
www.zoo-mulhouse.com

Tour du Belvedere
Not far from Mulhouse zoo is a sort of mini
Eiffel Tower known as the Belvedere Tower.
It’s not for those who have a fear of heights
but the view from the top, at 350m above
sea level is outstanding. You can see as far
as Colmar and the Black Forest. There’s also
a great park which is perfect for a wander
and a picnic.
Hotel de Ville
The former Town Hall in a medieval building
is covered in stunning trompe l’oeil
paintings, with images of justice, courage,
temperance, faith and charity. The eagle
eyed will spot a stone head hanging from a
chain, known as the klapperstein, which
weighed 12 kilos and would be hung from
the necks of gossipers and scandalmongers,
who would be made to wear it riding around
the city backwards on a donkey!
Ecomusée d’Alsace
In the town of Ungersheim, just North of
Mulhouse, you’ll find one of Europe’s largest
outdoor heritage museums. Over 100
hectares of countryside and village, with 70
historic houses from around the region that
were saved from demolition and rebuilt at
this attraction, brick by brick. Visit potters,
blacksmiths and wheelwrights workshops
and watch demonstrations depicting
medieval life in Alsace. Don’t forget to look
up to admire the storks nests on the roofs.
Musée de l’Impression sur Étoffe
This museum is dedicated to the decorative
arts, fashion, local history and industry of the
textile business. There are some original
machines from the early years of
industrialised printing, including a Lefèvre
copper roller from 1809, and a whole range
of sewing machines.
There’s also a display of wonderful printed
fabrics including some which were produced
to decorate the Hotel de Ville – a Christmas
speciality of Mulhouse.

Arty Mulhouse
Motoco is typical of the regeneration that’s
turning this city into a major creative hub.
It’s the biggest artists residence in the whole
of France with 140 artists, artisans and
creative companies sharing 80 rented
studios in a monumental former factory of
textile giant DMC. A range of arts are
practiced here from multimedia to dance,
performance, sculpting, painting and more.
Artists come from all over Europe to work
and collaborate. Though not open to the
public all the time, check with the tourist
office to discover Motoco’s open days or
book a workshop with an artist.
www.motoco.fr
When a former tile factory closed in 1970,
the owner handed over the building to his
son to manage. Le Sechoir is in a former tile
factory which is now a vibrant exhibition
space and studios. It hosts more than a
dozen artists and holds regular exhibitions in
a huge open plan space. It’s open on
weekends and free to enter and if you’re
looking for something gorgeous and unique
as a memento of Mulhouse to take home,
you’re sure to find it here. Check at the
tourist office for “open door days” when the
artists will be on site to present and chat
about their work.
www.lesechoir.fr
Shops
Art is everywhere in Mulhouse and there are
several shops which proactively support and
promote the work of resident artists. La
Vitrine Volante shop pops up in different
parts of the city at different times (check at
the tourist office for details). Le Bocal is
another outlet for artists which focuses on
homeware and showcases work by artists
from Motoco. You can also buy works of art
by Motoco’s artists at the tourist office.
Le Bocal
La Vitrine Volante

Where to eat out in Mulhouse
Café NoMad is in a former foundry and ever
since it opened in 2018, it’s been super
popular with the locals. The integrity of the
industrial origins of the building have been
kept, but its brick walls and industrial pipes
combined with funky and vintage artefacts
contrasts fabulously with stylish lighting.
You’ll find a menu with great street food
style dishes - burgers, ribs and chicken
teriyaki etc. The popular cocktail list keeps
the bar stools permanently filled. Don’t miss
the creamy, coconutty, zingy pineapple
based Colada’nanas. Full of locals, great for
families, friends and couples. Book in
advance online if you want to be sure of a
table.
Tilvist Coff’Tea Shop serves food like
maman makes at home. It’s a funky shop and
neighbourhood café and social workplace.
Try the Bretzels Mulhouse style - the
flakiest pastry filled with ham and local
cheese, perfect with a tasty salad and freshly
made smoothie. Afterwards browse the shop
shelves filled with local speciality products
and artisan made goods from pottery and
glassware to greetings cards, ornaments,
textile art and gorgeous bags.
Café Mozart is a must when you’re in town.
The locals love it as much for its location and
spectacular views over the city’s main
square, Place de la Réunion, as its
sensational cakes and delicious seasonal
menu. Inside the café, Patisserie Jacques has
been making the locals happy for more than
eight decades and the family run business is
now run by third generation pastry chef
Michel Bannwarth. Open for breakfast and
lunch with a varied menu including delicious
quiches and pies. But of course the cakes
take centre stage with scrumptious and
irresistible classics.
Mulhouse Tourism
UKFrancefr

Spotlight on:
Le Havre
© Pixell Le Havre Tourist Office
Janine Marsh discovers a city rich in
architecture, history and art...
Le Havre was a hugely popular seaside
resort after the Paris to Le Havre railway line
opened in 1847, bringing Parisians to the
beach. But these days it’s famous for its
huge port and for the extraordinary
architecture of its rebuilt city.
A purpose built city that was a
blueprint for modern life
Some people love the modernity of Le
Havre (I’m one of them) and some don’t. But
you can’t ignore it. It’s one of the few 20th
century cities in the world to have received
UNESCO heritage listing – and it is
extraordinary. There’s nowhere else quite
like it in France.
people, many of whom were sheltering in US
barracks. Belgium-born architect Auguste
Perret, a teacher of Le Corbusier, was
appointed to oversee the rebuild between
1946 and 1964. He was a man who simply
loved reinforced concrete.
For me, the layout and the concept of this
new city reflects some of the dreams of Le
Havre’s creator King Francis 1, who
originally wanted to call it Francisopolis. He
worked with genius Leonardo da Vinci on an
urban planning project. Whilst not for Le
Havre, he longed to create an “ideal city” and
Da Vinci’s notes show that he included
prefabricated houses, improved sanitation,
streets that were easy to traverse.
Le Havre was flattened at the end of the
Second World War. Around 80 per cent of it
had to be rebuilt rapidly to rehouse 80,000

In Le Havre, Perret delivered an ideal city
almost 500 years after Le Havre’s creation in
1517. He built a city of concrete buildings,
using it in different ways and instructing the
project’s 100 architects to use concrete as
their main medium. Many of the buildings
have a somewhat Soviet air but with a hint
of French flair – art deco sculpturing,
balconies and French windows.
The view from the 17-storey tower next to
the Hôtel de Ville shows a city with straight,
wide French boulevards, like Avenue Foch,
known as the Champs-Elysées of Le Havre,
but at 80m wide, it’s 10m wider than the
Paris version.
Perret’s Church of St Joseph, which from
the outside is rather utilitarian looking
despite it’s rocket like spire which can be
seen for miles, is incredible inside. An
astonishing mosaic of 12000 tiny stained
glass windows in red, orange, gold and violet
give it a warm feel. Seating is organised in a
circle around the concrete altar. Perret died
in 1954 before it was completed, and though
a lifelong atheist, legend tells that he asked
to be baptised here and wanted to be buried
here (he was in fact buried in Paris according
to his wife’s wishes). There are just two
statues inside, from the original church.
Over the years the city has continued to
develop and just a few of the unmissable
sites are:
Les Bains des Docks aquatic centre designed
by legendary architect Jean Nouvel, don’t
miss a chance for a swim in one of its 12
pools when you go to Havre, it’s strikingly
beautiful.

Cyril Plate art
Oscar Niemeyer’s Volcanoes make you stop
in surprise. The locals call the big volcano, a
theatre, the yoghurt pot. You can see why
with it’s pure white, sloping sides and flat
top. The recently renovated small volcano is
now the public library and it’s just as
extraordinary inside as it is outside. Anyone
can go in – and should, to experience the
remarkable interior design, concrete of
course in keeping with Le Havre’s
architectural theme. It’s like being in a
spaceship with viewing windows carved into
the thick walls, space age seats in bright
colours, and a sweeping staircase. There are
regular exhibitions and a cool coffee shop.
This has to be one of the most remarkable
libraries in the world.
www.lehavre.fr/annuaire/bibliothequeosacar-niemeyer
Port of Le Havre
Having spent his childhood in Le Havre, the
artist Claude Monet was so moved by it that
he painted his most famous work, a view of
the port of Le Havre. Named Impression,
Rising Sun, it gave the Impressionist
movement its name.
The port today is the processing point for
more shipping containers than any other in
France. The city uses them in building – they
make funky students flats. And in art where
containers have been transformed into an
elegant, curvy sculpture by Vincent Ganivet,
at Southampton Wharf
You can take a port tour which is fascinating
navigation-normande.fr
Beach Life
The pebble beach in Le Havre is long and
extends round to Saint Adresse which has a
sandy beach. Here you’ll find the “Hanging
Gardens” overlooking the Bay of the Seine
and the Chapel of Notre Dame des Flots,

uilt in 1859. Recently restored, it was
originally built for the fishermen to go and
pray for a safe voyage. Now full of memorial
plates, model ships and paintings and still in
use, its open through the week and the
views from its gardens are lovely.
Culture of Le Havre
There are several museums in the city and
culture vultures will find plenty to please
including:
MUMA: The Museum of Modern Art was the
first purpose built museum in France and it’s
impressionist collection is second only to the
Musée d’Orsay. Monet, Renoir, Boudin and
Pissaro are all featured. Don’t miss the café
overlooking the harbour for a break - and
the views.
Auguste Perret’s show flat, furnished with
1950s flat-pack space-saving items is
genuinely surprising. It wouldn’t look out of
place in a chic New York loft! He created a
show flat in 1949 to allow local people to
see what he was proposing with the
rebuilding of Le Havre – not all of them were
impressed by his modern rebuilding of their
city. This show flat homage, re-created in
2005, reveals just how visionary he was. The
space, 99m₂ exactly (as all the flats are) is
beautifully laid out.
One heater in each block provided enough
hot air to heat all the flats in the block
through a duct system. Folding and double
doors meant the apartment was bathed in
the special light of Le Havre throughout the
day but could create privacy. Bathrooms
were in each apartment at a time when many
homes still had outdoor loos and tin baths
hanging on a wall (even for decades after).
Perret’s vision has had worldwide influence
and you can see it clearly in this wonderful
museum flat. (Details: www.lehavretourisme.
com)

Le Havre’s thriving art scene
Le Havre has long attracted artists and many
of the artists working in the city today find
its architecture a huge inspiration. At the
Mascarade Gallery, former graphic designer
Masquerade creates vibrant and stunning
artworks using Chinese ink and acrylic to
create intricate pieces and pop art style
pieces heavily influenced by street art with a
Le Havre theme. They make a fabulous
colourful memento of your visit.
Pierre Lenoir Vaquero’s unique art gallery
and shop is also a beer store. Vaquero, a
painter, photographer and sculptor takes Le
Havre as his theme and creates playful
pastel coloured paintings of iconic sites.
Inspired by concrete he also designs
sculptures and ornaments - his little
concrete hearts are the ideal souvenir.
La Cave a Bieres, 1, rue des Gobelins
often uses raw and recycled materials as his
inspiration for his paintings, drawing and
sculptures. Using a recycled street signs, he
created this artwork to commemorate the
500th anniversary of Le Havre.
Eat and drink
There’s plenty of choice and an evergrowing
foodie scene, especially along the
sea front as Le Havre’s ongoing programme
of updating is in progress.
Wine & dine: Les Enfants Sages has a lovely
menu, sort of Lyonnaise style with a twist. In
an old school masters house, where the
rooms are small dining rooms and there’s a
pretty garden with tables on the terrace.
Relaxed, unpretentious and delicious. It’s
really popular so book in advance if you can
(you can do it online through their website).
Cyril Plate paints, draws and sculpts. He

New and fab: The Architect is run by
Australian Damian Tither who visited Le
Havre for a holiday and “fell in love with the
architecture, the light and the ambiance”.
The restaurant has a great vegetarian menu
plus a hint of Aussie cuisine “beer chicken,
pulled pork”, plus food with an Asian
influence. From the terrace or 50’s style
interior you get a ringside view of the ships
sailing by. Great for enjoying a pitcher of
beer, cocktails or wine (including Australian).
Locals love: Au Caid, next to the Tour Perret
is an institution. Opened in 1954, this listed
building is cosy and charming and a
favourite meeting place for the locals. It’s
great for a drink, snack or the seasonal plat
du jour.
Beach vibe: Au Bout du Monde is the
perfect place to relax and watch the
amazing light of Le Havre with a drink.
Beach hut style, right on the sea front – the
place to go for a fun cocktail list and street
food style dishes.
Stay at:
Hotel Nomad, a striking building next to Le
Havre station and tram stop, easy walking
distance to the city centre. Its hi-tech rooms
have shower pods featuring mood lighting
and ecologically friendly including carpet
made from recycled fishing nets. Hot water
is from solar panels and there are rainwater
flush systems. This is the future of hotels.
Hotel Oscar, on the central square
overlooking the Volcano. Mid-19th century
chic rules here - think vintage posters and
Perret flat-pack furniture oscarhotel.fr
Useful info
Take a guided tour of the city. Book at the
tourist office (my guide Kamil was fabulous).
It’s just 35 mins to Honfleur and 40 mins to
Etretat from Le Havre.

The
Best
tours of
France
2020
Travel like a local!
We've picked 10 fabulous tours in France where the
experience is built around the things YOU want to see
and do.
Small Group tours
Each and every private tour is different and they are all
typically for less than ten people.
Enjoy the trip of a lifetime...
Tour at your own pace
Unlike most tours that rush you around like herds of
sheep without time to relish the sights and wonderful
food and wines for which France is famous and you’ve
travelled so far to experience - these tours are
designed to ensure you fully savour your time in
France. Whether you’re a lover of chateaux, culture,
gourmet cuisine, wonderful wines, gorgeous
countryside, the prettiest villages – these tours are full
of thrills and wonder.
French immersion course in
burgundy
A French immersion course is all about
learning the language but it is also about
getting to experience the culture, gastronomy,
the wonderful sites and scenery that make
learning so much more fun, interesting and
memorable. Stay in a 17th century chateau in
Burgundy while you learn & experience the
best of French food, wine and culture.
www.lapont.com
The real south of France Tours
Discover real southern France from
captivating Carcassonne to magical
Montpellier and the best of Provence.
Tours, including lavender field tours lasting
9 days in which you'll get to be a temporary
local and indulge in the best Occitanie and
Provence has to offer from gastronomy to
culture and then some. Tours for those who
love the authentic.
www.tripusafrance.com

private provence tours
Customized traveling to give you memories
to last a lifetime. Lavender tours, truffle,
grape harvest, and bespoke tours as well as
chauffeur services for day trips or a lot
longer. Emily Durand’s Private Provence
tours are designed to make you feel like a
local – not a tourist.
yourprivateprovence.com
Gorgeous Gascony Tours
Nourish your soul and unleash your spirit of
adventure in Gascony. With tour guide Sue
Aran, you'll experience the famous food,
wine and Amagnac of the region. You'll
discover where to find the best antique
shops and flea markets, the most beautiful
villages and magnificent chateaux. From one
day to week long tours that are customised
for you.
www.frenchcountryadventures.com
Culture & cookery in Provence
Cooking classes with chefs in their homes
where you'll cook "authentic French dishes,
no frou frou" says tour guide Martine Bertin-
Peterson. You'll shop at the enchanting street
markets with chefs and dine at the most
scrumptious restaurants in beautiful towns of
Provence on this fully escorted trip of a
lifetime. There's also a Christmas in Alsace
tour for 2020.
www.goutetvoyage.com
Cottages & Classics Experience
Cottages and Classics offer a diverse range
of options for holidays from self-catering,
B&B mini breaks or B&B. The Cottages and
Classics Experience includes the use of a 4-
seater Morgan, perfect for touring the small
roads of Charente-Maritime and boulevards
of towns like Cognac, Angoulême and La
Rochelle.
cottagesand classics.com

Small group & private tours of
France
Ophorus Tours are a French family run
business who run tours all over France. From
fun and informative guided walking city tours
to very carefully crafted multi regional
packages, wine tasting, cycling and more.
Their aim is to show you France as they
believe it should be shown – authentic,
colorful and friendly.
www.ophorus.com
Cycling tours in the Tarn
Tours du Tarn are specialists in leisure and
road cycling holidays and they’ve discovered
the ideal location for the perfect cycling
holiday. Bordering the most beautiful areas
of the Tarn, the Aveyron and the Tarn et
Garonne regions the centre-based cycling
enterprise plan to put this ‘un-pedalled’ area
of south-west France on the cycling map.
www.tarncyclingholidays.com
Brilliant, luxury, ladies-only
tours of France
Tours of Paris, Provence, Bordeaux and
many more of the top and most fabulous
destinations are on the Girls Guide to Paris
list. These ladies only, small group tours are
truly special. Expect the extraordinary from
food and accommodation to visits and sites.
Host Doni Belau is well known for her
bespoke and unforgettable tours.
girlsguidetoparis.com
Wine & Gastronomy Tours
On these tours you’re accompanied by your
very own private in-house chef, gourmet
dining catered to your personal taste. There
are visits to the most stunning areas of
France including the Loire Valley, Paris,
Normandy & Alsace. Enjoy the finest wines
too plus cookery lessons. Luxury & the best
of France with your charming hosts
Kimberley and Walter Eagleton.
www.artisticgourmetadventures.com

COLLIOURE
Lonna Coleman captures the ambiance of the colourful southern French town in
photos....
The French Mediterranean village of
Collioure is nothing short of enchanting.
Travel guru Rick Steves refers to it as
“paradise reclaimed” – it’s hard to disagree.
Collioure is everything that describes an
idyllic postcard-perfect retreat from modern
stresses… cobblestone pedestrian streets,
colourful narrow houses that are centuries
old, a plethora of vine-covered dining patios
and bars, sandy (though sometimes rocky)
beaches with clear almost turquoise water,
quality wine made nearby from local grapes,
and a vibrant history dotted with the great
and the famous including Henri Matisse,
Pablo Picasso, and British author Patrick
O’Brian.
Add gorgeous summer sunrises over the
water and a pace of life that seems to be
from times gone by, and Collioure is worth a
detour from any South-of-France itinerary.

Lonna (Elle) Coleman is a
recently-retired banking
executive now focused on
her true passions - travel
photography, expressionist
acrylic painting, and writing.
Her photography and art
work are available at
https://www.etsy.com/
shop/ElleColemanPhotoArt
Lonna was in Collioure to
attend a writing workshop;
information at hwww.
karenkarbo.com

Collioure is easily reachable by
train. There is TGV service from
Paris Gare de Lyon to nearby
Perpignan, where visitors have
choiceof local train, rental car, or
taxi to reach the town.

YOUR PHOTOS
Every weekend, we invite you to share
your photos on Facebook - it's a great
way for everyone to see "real" France
and be inspired by real travellers
snapping pics as they go. Every week
there are utterly gorgeous photos being
shared and here we showcase the most
popular of each month. Share your
favourite photos with us on Facebook -
the most "liked" will appear in the next
issue of The Good Life France
Magazine...
june:
Summer in a photo...
A picnic in the
shadow of the
Château de l'Islette,
Azay le Rideau, Loire
Valley.
(2624 likes/shares/
comments)
Read about Azay-le-
Rideau and this little
known, romantic
chateau...
Photo: @vanestreney

july:
Sunflowers in
Gascony by Sue Aran
(4884 likes/
comments/shares)
August:
Driving though the country
lanes of Normandy by Dawne
Polis an American artist living in
the French countryside – her
work has been published in
several books and magazines
and is available through her
agent, McGawGraphics or
RedBubble.
(3522 likes/comments/shares)
Join us on Facebook
and like and share
your favourite photos
of France...

Banking in France
Why are cheques still so
useful in France?
Unlike the UK and many other European
countries, cheques continue to be a
favourite way to pay all kind of bills in
France.
Unlike the rest of Europe, the cheque
book – le chéquier – is an important method
of making payments in France. According to
research, French people use cheques more
than any other nation in Western Europe,
whether to pay for groceries at the
supermarket checkout or settle an invoice
from an artisan.
The history of cheques in France dates back
almost 200 years when the Banque de
France issued the country’s very first
cheque, several decades after English
bankers began using cheques as an
alternative form of paper money. In 1865, a
change in the law created the cheque that
we know today. Legislation in the early part
of the 20th century made it an offence to
write a cheque without sufficient funds in
your account to cover it and this is still the
position today.
Why then do, cheques continue to be a
common method of paying bills in France in
2019?
There are several reasons: they are a
preferred form of payment for many
artisans, and some doctors only accept
cheques.
If you are planning a renovation project,
many businesses expect to receive a cheque
payment. It’s simple, quicker and easier than
carrying around an electronic bank card
reader. The artisan will sign the invoice to
confirm receipt of payment.
Cheques are frequently used for larger
purchases too and you do not need a bank
card to guarantee a cheque, but you may
need id.
Writing cheques is a regular occurrence in
France because they are a practical and
guaranteed form of payment.
Bouncing a cheque in France is a serious
offence and it is illegal to write a French
bank cheque for an amount which exceeds
the balance of your bank account. Anyone
who does, may lose the right to write
cheques and will have limited access to
banking services for up to five years –
known as interdit bancaire. You should
always check your bank statement before
handing over a cheque to avoid potential
bank fees or worse…. As you would do if you
are using your card in a shop, online or at
cash machine.
Also avoid postdating cheques, because once
they have been issued they could be
presented immediately.
One final precautionary note! Even after a
payment made by cheque is credited to your
account, banks can recover the money from
your account if the cheque bounces for up to

Banking in France
Finally, when receiving a cheque, before
paying it in make sure that the beneficiary
has signed the reverse of the cheque and
preferably written their account number on
the reverse. This will avoid any delays upon
crediting the cheque to your account.
If you would like more information or wish
to apply for a CA Britline account, please
visit www.britline.com
How to Write a Cheque in France
The layout of a French bank cheque is
slightly different to a UK cheque.
Each cheque requires the following to be
legally valid: -
- The amount of the cheque (written in
words)
- The payee – individual or company – to
whom you are making the payment
- The amount of the cheque (written in
numbers)
- The location where the cheque is written,
for example. the village/town where you live
if written at home or the town where the
shop/business is located.
- The date
- Your signature
And of course this all has to be written in
French.
It’s also important to know - if there is a
difference between the numbers and the
words written on the cheque, the bank will
take the written numbers as final.
Find more useful articles about banking in
France at www.thegoodlifefrance.com

TAKING YOUR
FIRST STEPS
IN FRANCE
Getting established in any new country
does take time. Here are some handy hints
to help you settle in France...
It may seem obvious, but for anyone moving
to France, first brush up or learn to speak
some French – it will make life easier and,
after all, it's only polite!
There's no getting away from it, France is
bureaucratic and there is always going to be
heaps of paperwork involved. So prepare a
file with all your key documents and
certificates – birth, marriage, divorce (if
applicable) and childrens' birth certificates,
wills, driving licences and even pet
passports. You’re also going to need a
justicatif de domicile i.e. an electricity or
phone bill. Get the documents and
certificates translated into French by a
registered translator - French authorities
usually require a copy of the original and a
translation, and it makes it easier to have
everything ready.
Tie up loose ends in the UK – contact utility
companies, the tax office and bank to make
sure they know you are leaving the country.
Apart from tidying everything up, these
organisations might have useful advice to
offer.

Register in the social security
system
Once here, getting registered in the social
security system is important – do this as
soon as possible as it will provide access to
healthcare as well as employment, education
and various public services. If your French is
good, visit the French social security
services website ameli.fr or family welfare
services caf.fr. For information in English
the UK government website also provides an
overview.
Healthcare
Before leaving the UK obtain an S1 form
from the Department of Work and Pensions,
take this to the local French healthcare
authority (CPAM caisse primarie d’assurance
maladie) once you arrive.
Puma: Protection Universelle Maladie. A
universal system of healthcare was
introduced in January 2016 The Puma
system grants an automatic and continuous
right to health care in France to those who
are legally resident in the country, basically,
healthcare rights come automatically with
right of residency.
That right is not reliant on the user having
paid into the system. In practice, Puma
mostly refers to the system of access to
healthcare for those who have not built up
any rights through social security cotisations
via a salary or self-employed work. It
includes those who do not have an S1 form,
usually held by EU state pensioners.
This group consists mainly of early retirees
and state pensioners of non-EU states and
requires the applicant to obtain a carte de
séjour as proof of residency. There may be a
requirement to pay an annual fee, known as
cotisation subsidiaire maladie (colloquially a
“Puma cotisation”). You can fine more details
on the French Government website: https://
www.service-public.fr/particuliers/
vosdroits/F34308
You become eligible for French healthcare
after three months' residency or as soon as
you start work and pay social security
contributions. You then need to obtain a
Carte Vitale, your employer can probably
help you obtain this. Healthcare in France is
excellent but as the state covers only 60 –
70% of health costs you need top-up
insurance – a Mutuelle – to make sure you
are adequately covered. The Mutuelle
representative should be able to explain the
process and also help you obtain your Carte
Vitale.
Opening a French bank account quite easy.
You can do this before you arrive in France if
you prefer, and these days most banks have
an English speaking service to make things
easier. Take your paper- work and a letter (it
may need to be translated to French for
some banks) from your UK bank confirming
your financial situation to the bank you
choose as this will simplify procedures.
When it comes to your children Family
Allowance Allocation Familiale (AF) is paid by
the CAF (Caisse d’Allocations Familiale) from
the birth of a second (and any subsequent)
child until they reach the age of 18 – should
you only have two children payment ceases
as soon as the eldest reaches 18. The
Allocation Rentrée Scolaire is a one-off
payment each September to all children in
full-time education (excluding university) and
the amount varies according to age. These
benefits are only applicable if you work in
France and are contributing to the French
social security system.
Prepare a file with all of
your key documents
from the UK and get
certified French
translations done.

Should you choose state education, the
Mairie pays for primary (Primaire) education,
so you will almost certainly have to send
them to the local school. For Collège there is
greater choice, but generally you cannot
send children out of the département. Lycée
is a free, national choice. To enrol for
Primaire sign up at the Mairie, for Collège
and Lycée do this directly with the school.
There's no school uniform and no packed
lunches – children stay for a three course
meal or go home. You will be asked to
provide a leaving certificate – certificat de
radiation - from the child's previous school –
while this doesn't really apply coming from
the UK, obtain a letter from your child's
previous school before you move to avoid
any unnecessary delays. Of course if you
choose private or international schools you'll
have a completely free choice.
If you receive a pension from the UK, you
can either keep the status quo and have it
paid into your UK account and transfer as
needed or sent directly into a French
account – the choice is yours!
Once you become resident in France you will
be liable to pay French taxes in May each
year. To get into the system, go to your local
tax office (Centre des Impots) or Mairie, or
go online through www.impots. gouv.fr.
Even if you think you might fall below the
tax threshold level it is still your
responsibility to file your return on time and,
if you live or work in France for more than
182 days, you will be classed as a tax
resident from the day after your arrival, so
you will need to register.
Please note these details are correct as at time
of publication and may change when the UK
leaves the EU. Currently with just weeks to go
before that is due to happen, there are
insufficient details to give clarification on what
will change.
Thanks to Leggett Immobillier, the award
winning estate agency in France for this
article.

Why it is
essential to
talk to your
Financial
Adviser
I’ve been giving financial advice to English
speaking clients who live outside of their
home country now for the last 23 years (of
which the last 13 years in France) and they
certainly are a varied bunch of folks.
Some have settled into their new country
and new lifestyle very well, others not-sowell
and a few of these not-so-well people
have now returned back to their home
country.
Over the years I have looked in depth why
this was the case, and there was a constant
thread running through the settled ones.
They planned their finances (and then sat
back and enjoyed retirement). I’m talking
about people who have now retired to
another country (as opposed to moving
abroad for work) and are relying on their
pensions and investments to pay their bills,
as 95% of my clients tend to fit into this
category.
Understandably so, retiring to another
country is more often than not a decision
made purely on emotions. After a long
working life, there’s a desire for less work,
for a new lifestyle and climate etc. But, to
make a success of retiring abroad, then facts
as well as emotions also have to enter into
this retirement equation.
Financial planning works best
when planned in advance
I equate financial planning to visiting the
dentist, you tend to visit the dentist for two
main reasons. Either you have a horrendous
toothache now, or you don’t want a
horrendous toothache in the future. Those
who have planned in advance have visited
their dentist regularly and the dentist has put
a plan in place to look after their teeth and to
avoid future toothache. Those that don't
visit their dentist turn up at their dentist’s
door with a swollen face and a horrendous
toothache and end up leaving with less
teeth.
Good regulated Financial Planning is
essential to avoid Financial toothache.
So how do you make sure your bills and
other expenses are paid for as tax-efficiently
as possible when you have retired in France?

Know what works best for you
If you have moved (or are thinking of
moving) to France from the UK, then you
need to know that France has a completely
different tax system and completely
different inheritance rules. So, to get the
right advice it is essential that you talk to an
International Financial Adviser who
understands the rules and regulations of
both the UK and France.
Some people living in France are happy to
keep their investments in UK deposit
accounts, which make little or no interest.
The low interest rates available rarely beat
the inflation rate, so in real terms their
investment is essentially moving backwards.
Some people living in France are happy to
keep their investments in UK ISA’s and
Premium Bonds. Though these investments
were tax-free for them in the UK, now that
they’re living in France with a French tax
regime, the capital gains made on these
investments are taxable at 30%! And, they’re
declarable every year if withdrawn or not.
Making a decent return on your
investment
Low interest-rates mean that to make
noteworthy return you may need to take a
measured amount of risk within your risk
profile, whilst at the same time seeking to
remain as tax-efficient as possible.
French tax resident is worth your time.
For example, the UK pension freedom act
(2015) presents you with lots of options for
your pension retirement savings. You are no
longer forced to purchase an annuity at
historical low rates. In fact, UK annuities are
currently being looked at as some companies
may have potential irregularities.
Your International Financial Adviser can also
tell you about the best options available for
your UK Pension savings as a French tax
resident.
Paul Flintham is an
International Financial Adviser
with Beacon Global Wealth
Management in France
Email: enquiries @
bgwealthmanagement.net
Web: beaconglobalwealth.com
That’s why speaking to your International
Financial Adviser about the options available
for your Savings and Investments as a
Beacon Global Wealth Management are
members of FEIFA (the) Federation of European
Independent Financial Advisers: https://feifa.
eu/
The information on this page is intended only as an introduction only and is not designed to offer
solutions or advice. Beacon Global Wealth Management can accept no responsibility whatsoever
for losses incurred by acting on the information on this page.
The financial advisers trading under Beacon Wealth Management are members of Nexus Global
(IFA Network). Nexus Global is a division within Blacktower Financial Management (International)
Limited (BFMI). All approved individual members of Nexus Global are Appointed Representatives of
BFMI. BFMI is licensed and regulated by the Gibraltar Financial Services Commission and bound by
their rules under licence number FSC00805B.

ALSATIAN KUGELHOPF
(SWEET COFFEE CAKE OR DESSERT)
INGREDIENTS:
½ cup raisins
¼ cup of rum
2/3 cup of milk
2 tablespoons sugar
1 ½ envelope of dried yeast
1 cup unsalted butter plus 2 tablespoons – room
temperature
½ teaspoon salt
6 eggs whisked together, in a small bowl
2-2/3 cups sifted flour
½ cup whole blanched almonds
Powdered sugar

DIRECTIONS:
Soak the raisins overnight in the rum.
Scald the milk (heat to a near boil), add the sugar,
stir well, and cool to lukewarm. Sprinkle the yeast
over the milk. Let it stand 15 minutes until the
yeast begins to bubble.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, cream 1 cup of butter
with a wooden spoon until very soft; incorporate
the ½ teaspoon of salt.
Add the eggs and the yeast concoction to the flour
in a separate bowl. Mix well pulling the dough with
your hands to develop a good gluten structure and
to aerate the dough.
With your hands, blend the creamed butter into
the batter until well mixed. Add the raisins with
whatever rum is left, if any.
Let rise in a large bowl until 1 ½ times its original
volume. Punch down.
Butter a Bundt pan with the remaining butter,
sprinkle with the almonds, and fill with the batter.
Let the batter rise to within 1/3 inch of the top rim
of the cake mold and bake 25 to 30 minutes in a
preheated 375 F. degree oven.
Unmold immediately on a rack and cool. Sprinkle
with the powdered sugar through a sieve.
Serve as a dessert or as a coffee cake.
By Carole Bumpus author of
Searching for Family and Traditions
at the French Table. Part culinary
memoir and part travelogue, Carole
Bumpus gathered this compilation
of intimate interviews,
conversations, stories, and
traditional family recipes in the
kitchens of French families as she
travelled throughout France.

Leek and Potato Soup
INGREDIENTS
For 4 hungry people or 6 smaller
servings
3 medium potatoes (about 200g)
3 medium onions chopped finely
3 leeks sliced (some people just
use the white bit but if you use the
green it will give it more colour)
clove) finely chopped or pushed
through a garlic press
About a litre of chicken stock
Some butter to fry everything in
(about 50g)
Celery stalk (optional)
Cream (about 185ml optional)
3 cloves of garlic (or one big

Method
Melt the butter gently in a large saucepan
then add the chopped leeks, onion, garlic
and celery if you're using it.
Cover the pan and cook on a low heat for
about 15 minutes. You're aiming for the
vegetables to be nice and soft - but not
browned.
Add the chopped potatoes and the stock to
the pan. Bring to the boil and simmer for
about 20 minutes.
Let it cool a little.
Once you've got the soup pureed to the
level you like, now's the time to add cream if
you want to.
Dish the soup into bowls and swirl the cream
direct into the bowl. Throw a few chopped
herbs on top plus salt and pepper as liked.
Serve with croutons, hunks of baguette or
country style French bread and a glass of dry
white wine - perfect!
Keeps really well in the freezer if you don’t
eat it all in one go!
Either push the mixture through a colander
to break the big pieces down or purée it in a
blender. A hand held blender in the pan
works well.

Here in the sticks, in the lovely Seven Valleys, rural northern France, autumn
and winter seasons are party time. The farmers have finished harvesting the
crops for the main part, the fields are ploughed and ready for the spring
planting. The cheese makers days are shorter as the goats and cows don’t give
quite so much milk. Everything slows down to take account of the mornings not
being light until gone 8 o’clock and dark by 4 o’clock.
This leaves people with a bit more time on their hands than usual. And in the
Pas de Calais department, they love nothing better than a party. Each village
holds a party to celebrate the end of the harvest – but not all on the same night.
To make sure villagers can get together, the parties are held on weekends
throughout autumn. Then of course the Christmas parties start and the New
Year parties follow, after that we’re into carnival season!
My village is one of the first to celebrate autumn with a “ducasse” an old French
word for party, and nothing to do with famous chef Alain Ducasse. I doubt he
would be impressed with the chip (fries) wagon that parks up in the car park of
the town hall ready to fry bucket loads of sliced potatoes to go with the charred
chicken that Monsieur Dieval, the local wood cutter, produces on a giant
barbecue.
This year our village of 142 swelled to three times that number for the party in a
tent which threatened to blow away in a raging wind. The Mayor’s speech (it is
impossible to have a speech-less event in France if there is an official present)
welcomed villagers from far and wide. We all raised a glass to this village and
that. It was a long night, starting at 7pm and for those hardy enough, going on
until 7am. You need stamina to be a party animal in these parts - but as they say
here, no one looks back on their life and remembers the nights they had plenty
of sleep - and besides, being happy never goes out of style!