Issue No. 18
Inspiring and insightful features, stunning photographs and brilliant reporting on French travel, culture, gastronomy, life in France and a whole lot more...
Inspiring and insightful features, stunning photographs and brilliant reporting on French travel, culture, gastronomy, life in France and a whole lot more...
- No tags were found...
You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
Bonjour!<br />
Welcome to the Spring issue of The Good Life France Magazine.<br />
Provence lovers are in for a treat as we reveal the top ten visits from gorgeous<br />
towns to the best bike rides and a whole lot more.<br />
Spend Le Weekend is stunning Sarlat, when you arrive in the old town it's almost<br />
like you've stepped through a time tunnel to the past. Old buildings, cobbled<br />
streets and an air of timelessness make this pickled in the past town one of the<br />
most special in France. Take the train to Champagne in our Du Pain, Du Vin, Du<br />
Train feature and make tracks not just for the effervescent towns of Reims and<br />
Epernay but some of the smaller villages en route.<br />
Paris, Aveyron and lovely Lille are featured and we take a look at the best tours<br />
for 20<strong>18</strong> from luxury car and wine tours to authentic <strong>No</strong>rmandy, Provence,<br />
Alsace and more tours.<br />
Cake recipes you'll love, useful guides and a whole lot more await, so enjoy a<br />
great read, there are lots of links to more information, the joy of a digital<br />
magazine!<br />
If you like The Good Life France Magazine, please feel free to pass the details on<br />
to your friends and family - it's always good to share nice things right?<br />
Bisous from France,<br />
Janine
contributors<br />
Antoine Collas is a marketing specialist and entrepreneur who<br />
runs Instagram agency HapTagmedia.com. He's also a brilliant<br />
photographer who loves to capture images of his home town<br />
Paris and is our valued guest photographer for this issue.<br />
Michael Cranmer is an award-winning freelance travel writer<br />
and photographer. He spends most of the winter up<br />
mountains writing about his primary passion - skiing, but also<br />
manages to sample less strenuous outings.<br />
Lucy Pitts is a copy writer who runs www.stroodcopy.com.<br />
She's also Deputy Editor of The Good Life France Magazine.<br />
She divides her time between the UK and France where she<br />
has a home in the the Vendée area, known as the Green<br />
Venice of France.<br />
Paola Westbeek is a food journalist with an absolute passion<br />
for French cuisine and wine. She loves creating delicious<br />
recipes with joie de vivre. You'll find her at ladoucevie.eu and<br />
on YouTube at La Douce Vie Food Channel and more of her<br />
fabulous recipes at The French Life<br />
Editor: Janine Marsh contact editor (at) the goodlifefrance.com<br />
Deputy Editor: Lucy Pitts<br />
Assistant: Sandra Davis<br />
Advertising: sales (at) thegoodlifefrance.com<br />
Digital support: Umbrella Web Solutions<br />
Artistic support: Kumiko at KumikoChesworth.myportfolio.com<br />
Front Cover image: Antoine Collas
contents<br />
Features<br />
8 Provence - ten of the best<br />
places to visit<br />
Local expert and expat Emily Durand<br />
shares her top ten in lovely Provence -<br />
simply irresistible.<br />
24 Lovely Lille<br />
Discover culture and charm by the bucket<br />
load in the northern city.<br />
32 Destination<br />
Gastronomique<br />
The little hilltop town of Montreuil-sur-Mer<br />
in the far north is a foodie's delight.<br />
36 du pain, du vin, du train to<br />
Champagne<br />
Just 45 minutes from Paris, Reims the<br />
capital of Champagne awaits. Take the<br />
"bubbles line" for effervescent fun.<br />
44 Aveyron & millau<br />
Lucy Pitts discovers the beauty of<br />
mysterious Aveyron.<br />
54 le weekend in... sarlat<br />
Step back in time and find a pickled in the
Features continued<br />
60 postcard from paris<br />
Guest photographer Antoine Collas reveals<br />
his favourite places in Paris.<br />
64 10 brilliant tours in 20<strong>18</strong><br />
Luxurious, authentic and truly special tours<br />
in France.<br />
70 skiing in the french<br />
cottian alps<br />
Michael Cranmer visits a little known part<br />
of the French Alps and finds ski paradise.<br />
Regular<br />
68 your photos<br />
The most popular photos shared by our<br />
lovely readers on the TGLF Facebook page.<br />
92 DIrectory of services<br />
94 My Good Life in France<br />
The sometimes strange French laws that<br />
make me think I'll never really get France.
Expats<br />
76 La Belle Vie<br />
Joanna Leggett talks about life in France<br />
and how to fit in.<br />
80 Introducing OFX<br />
We've teamed up with the award winning<br />
foreign exchange agency to help you<br />
manage your currency needs effectively.<br />
83 How expats can benefit<br />
from finanical advice<br />
Jennie Poate walks you through how to<br />
avoid a taxing time in France<br />
Gastronomy<br />
86 FInanciers<br />
Mardi Michaels' recipe for the classic little<br />
French cakes is simple and delish.<br />
88 NOnettes<br />
Paola Westbeek's recipe for the "little<br />
Nuns" is a winner!
Ten of the best visits<br />
in Provence
It’s impossible to spend just one week in Provence and think you’ve<br />
experienced it fully, but what if you only have a week? Emily Durand<br />
of Your Private Provence has created a one-week itinerary taking in ten<br />
of the most iconic and beautiful towns and locations in Provence...
The region of Provence is vast,<br />
stretching from the border of Italy<br />
and the Mediterranean Sea to the<br />
Rhone.<br />
It’s a region that is famous for its<br />
diverse landscapes, from the Alps<br />
and lush plains of the Camargue to<br />
the vibrant lavender fields, olive<br />
groves and rolling vineyards of the<br />
Luberon where the landscape is<br />
ever changing according to the<br />
seasons. The history, particular to<br />
each region and town, transcends<br />
centuries, millennia even. The<br />
Greeks, the Romans, 19th-century<br />
modernization, the scars of World<br />
War II, the mysterious legends and<br />
local heroes provide you with<br />
secrets and stories that bring to life<br />
the past.
In 1309, Pope Clement V, former<br />
Archbishop of Bordeaux, relocated the<br />
papacy to the town of Avignon where it<br />
remained until 1376 when it returned to<br />
Rome. Châteauneuf-du-Pape literally<br />
translates to "The Pope's new castle"<br />
as it was the location of the summer<br />
residence of Popes in France. They had<br />
vines planted there and to this day the<br />
55 vineyards in the area produce some<br />
of the finest wines.<br />
Read about the Palais des Papes here<br />
1<br />
Chateauneuf-du-Pape – a historic wine region<br />
Exploring the landscapes lining the Rhone<br />
River takes you back to a time before the<br />
Romans arrived, when the Greeks<br />
established trading posts and vineyards<br />
along the banks.<br />
Chateauneuf-du-Pape is the perfect place to<br />
start your exploration of the renowned<br />
vineyards of Provence.<br />
Take a leisurely walk in a sea of rolling hills<br />
lined with vines as a wine grower explains<br />
the secrets of making wine, both past and<br />
present. Taste wine in an ancient cellar and<br />
buy a bottle to enjoy with your gourmet<br />
picnic in the vineyard. You don’t have to be<br />
a knowledgeable wine connoisseur to<br />
appreciate your day in Chateauneuf-du-<br />
Pape - the stories go beyond the wine.<br />
Be sure to explore the area 30 minutes east<br />
of Chateauneuf-du-Pape for other cru wines<br />
and discover charming villages such as<br />
Seguret, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Beaumes<br />
de Venise.
2<br />
Venasque – one of the most beautiful villages<br />
In Provence there are eight villages officially<br />
classified as “Most Beautiful Villages of<br />
France”: Lourmarin, Ansouis, Gordes,<br />
Menerbes, Roussillon, Seguret, Venasque<br />
and Les Baux de Provence. This standard is<br />
obtained only if the village meets the<br />
stringent requirements laid out by the<br />
association.<br />
Venasque often seems to be overlooked by<br />
visitors to Provence. Perhaps it’s because<br />
of its location, perched high on a steep ridge<br />
and tucked away on the other side of the<br />
canyon from its rival gorgeous Gordes. The<br />
unique treasures in this tiny village set up<br />
high on a crag, where it almost feels as if<br />
you’re on a ship that has set-sail, are<br />
endless. Perhaps your favourite will be the<br />
“Place de la Fontaine” where you can<br />
marvel at the beautiful fountain with its cast<br />
iron masks spewing water.
To meet Plus Beaux Villages<br />
classification, there's a raft of<br />
criteria to be met, including that<br />
a town must not have more<br />
than 2000 inhabitants and have<br />
at least two protected sites or<br />
monuments and of course,<br />
must be outstandingly beautiful.<br />
Just 154 villages in the whole<br />
of France make the coveted list<br />
of officially prettiest villages of<br />
France<br />
It’s amazing to think that villagers still fetched<br />
water from here until 1960, when finally running<br />
water reached the village homes!<br />
Or your highlight might be the story behind a<br />
painting in the church that the village had to fight<br />
to get back from the Louvre. The 6th-century<br />
baptistery and the “capital of cherries” are two<br />
more reasons why Venasque is a top place to<br />
visit in Provence.
3 Gordes<br />
- the heart of Provence<br />
If there is one place on the bucket list of<br />
most visitors to Provence, it has to be<br />
Gordes. It’s almost like going to Paris and<br />
seeing the Eiffel Tour, it is the iconic<br />
Provencal village.<br />
The best way for your first experience of<br />
Gordes is from afar at the lookout point,<br />
because once you are in the village, your<br />
perspective is completely different, and you<br />
simply can’t appreciate the grandeur upon<br />
which you stand.<br />
Exploring the nooks and crannies and<br />
hidden secrets of this picturesque hill top<br />
town will enchant you. Cobblestone streets,<br />
a majestic 16th century chateau and mellow,<br />
yellow stoned houses make this the town<br />
the poster boy for Provence.<br />
Take time to view the lower fountain where<br />
400 shoemakers worked until the 19th<br />
century, when an earthquake deviated the<br />
underground water sources and ruined their<br />
businesses. Go underground and discover<br />
the Caves of Saint Firmin where dedication<br />
and hard work by a local family unveiled<br />
silos, vats and an olive mill - 7 floors under<br />
the main house!<br />
The environs of Gordes are truly marvellous,<br />
such as the Cistercian architecture of the<br />
Abbey de Senanque where the monks<br />
harvest lavender from the fields that<br />
surround it. Relax in the dry-stone huts,<br />
known as bories, that pepper the landscape<br />
and offer respite from the sun for those who<br />
choose to hike one of the many glorious<br />
trails.
4<br />
Cassis<br />
- The fishing village<br />
“Charlemagne’s Crown” is to be found in<br />
captivating Cassis - the coronet shaped cliff<br />
hovers over the harbour offering protection.<br />
The coloured facades and wooden fishing<br />
boats bobbing on the turquoise waters of<br />
the Mediterranean Sea are like the jewels in<br />
the crown. With this spectacular setting<br />
before you while you indulge in heavenly<br />
Bouillabaisse, you will understand the words<br />
of the 19th century writer Frederic Mistral<br />
“He who has seen Paris and who has not<br />
seen Cassis, has seen nothing at all!”<br />
The white wine from Cassis is considered a<br />
cru (the best) and was one of the first to be<br />
classified as AOP (Protected Appellation<br />
Origin). For perfect relaxation, sit at a café<br />
sipping white wine and then relax on the<br />
beach. Cassis has many benches for<br />
wanderers to rest, so if you didn't bring your<br />
swimsuit, you can still chill and watch the<br />
world go by.<br />
The morning market is on Wednesdays and<br />
Saturdays and if you stay overnight, wake<br />
up early to see the fisherman arrive to sell<br />
their catch of the day. A drive up to the top<br />
of Cap Canaille, the highest coastal cliff in<br />
France - and one of the highest in Europe, is<br />
one more highlight you won't want to miss:<br />
you’ll have the most spectacular view of the<br />
Mediterranean coastline.
Photo: Tim Prosser<br />
5<br />
Goult to Roussillon - the best ride ever!<br />
The real charm of Provence is that there is<br />
so much more to it than picturesque<br />
villages. Cave dwellings, dry-stone huts,<br />
prehistoric vestiges, natural wonders and<br />
hidden chapels are all a part of the<br />
discovery.<br />
The next best thing about Provence is that<br />
you can choose the way you want to<br />
discover. By bike, by foot, by classic 2CV or<br />
even by scooter, Provence caters to every<br />
type of wanderer. One of the best routes for<br />
a casual bike ride is from Goult to<br />
Roussillon passing through Joucas and the<br />
winery Chateau Blanc.<br />
Stop to take a walking tour of Roussillon one<br />
of the most popular villages in the Luberon.<br />
The views over the rugged rocks, plenty of<br />
pretty cafés, quirky boutiques and 15 art<br />
galleries are a magnet for tourists.<br />
Afterwards carry on your ride down the hill to<br />
the Roman-built bridge, Le Pont Julien. This<br />
area is home to the world’s largest ochre<br />
deposit and the hues of red and orange<br />
contrasted with the green vines and<br />
Provencal blue sun make this a bike ride to<br />
remember.
Photo: Julie Whitmarsh
6<br />
South<br />
Luberon - from Lourmarin to Ansouis<br />
It’s funny how natural barriers tend to create<br />
distinct regions. Such is the case for the<br />
Luberon Mountain Chain. The official<br />
Luberon region includes both the north and<br />
south side, but there are two personalities to<br />
explore: the north: Luberon Coeur de<br />
Provence, and the south: Côté Sud<br />
Luberon.<br />
Lourmarin and Ansouis are on the list of<br />
"Most Beautiful Village". I recommend both<br />
villages with stops in Vaugines and Cucuron<br />
in-between. If you happen to be here during<br />
the first part of May, you’ll have your very<br />
own red carpet laid out for you as the<br />
poppies are in full bloom.<br />
You can also contemplate the Provence of<br />
“Jean de La Florette” the beautiful book by<br />
Marcel Pagnol, on a walk near Vaugines. In<br />
more recent times, some of the loveliest<br />
scenes in “A Good Year” starring Russell<br />
Crowe were filmed in Cucuron. The<br />
ambiance of the south doesn’t stop here<br />
though. You can also go truffle hunting, taste<br />
olive oil, buy wine and visit castles.
<strong>No</strong>stradamus described Menerbes as being like a big ship drifting on a<br />
sea of vineyards and orchards...<br />
7<br />
Menerbes<br />
– the “floating” village<br />
Allow yourself time to be swept away by the<br />
quiet beauty of Menerbes. Like Gordes, on<br />
the other side of the Luberon valley,<br />
Menerbes is labelled “Most Beautiful<br />
Village”, but you’ll discover a very different<br />
kind of soul.<br />
The legacy of the famous artists who settled<br />
in the village - Picasso, Dora Maar, Nicolas<br />
de Stël, Jane Eakin and Joe Downing to<br />
name a few – have left their mark. <strong>No</strong>t to<br />
mention the late, great Peter Mayle who<br />
lived there and featured the town in many of<br />
his novels.<br />
As you walk the cobblestone and narrow<br />
lanes passing houses from the 15th, 17th<br />
and <strong>18</strong>th centuries, you won’t be distracted<br />
by postcards and lavender sachets for sale.<br />
The mass of tourists tend to stay in Gordes<br />
and Roussillon so Menerbes is an ideal spot<br />
for lunch and a peaceful stroll through a<br />
typical Provencal village. There are two<br />
bakeries in the village and a general store.<br />
Just enough to pick up some snacks for a<br />
light lunch you can enjoy perched on a<br />
bench in the shade at the top of the village in<br />
front of the 16th century church Saint Luc.
8<br />
Calanques<br />
- natural wonders<br />
If you’re feeling energetic and want to<br />
explore off-the-beaten-path, you can rent a<br />
kayak from Port Pin in Cassis. This way<br />
you’ll really appreciate the beauty of one of<br />
France’s most breath-taking landscapes -<br />
Les Calanques. These limestones creeks<br />
are sometimes referred to as the French<br />
Fjords.<br />
If you prefer to stay on land, a trek from Port<br />
Pin to the En-Vau Calanque is easily<br />
accessible for the adventurous hiker and<br />
reveals dreamy turquoise waters in a hidden<br />
cove - paradise guaranteed. You can also<br />
opt for a classic boat ride from the port of<br />
Cassis that offers views of 3, 5 or 7<br />
Calanques.<br />
Should you be traveling with a small group,<br />
opt for a private boat excursion which will<br />
get you up closer to the beaches and<br />
provide you with scuba gear for some<br />
underwater exploration. Don’t leave<br />
Provence without a little aqua adventure.
9<br />
Vaison-la-Romaine<br />
- Authentic High Vaucluse<br />
Region<br />
More and more people are becoming aware<br />
of the area referred to as Haute (high)<br />
Vaucluse. This region retains an authentic<br />
atmosphere with its less touristy villages.<br />
Here, the mountain atmosphere adds a<br />
touch of Alpine air that opens up the senses<br />
to the lavender, truffles, wine, saffron and<br />
fruit trees. Vaison-la-Romaine is a lively<br />
town with two weekly markets as well as a<br />
lovely Provencal square lined with cafés for<br />
resting tired feet.<br />
It’s also a paradise for Roman history buffs<br />
with open-air museums featuring a 1st<br />
century BC antique theater and one of the<br />
largest Roman villa vestiges in France. Don’t<br />
leave Vaison before crossing the Roman<br />
bridge to explore the Medieval City, Haute<br />
Ville. Should you be feeling in the mood for<br />
a little climb, wend your way to the top<br />
where the Counts of Toulouse built their<br />
castle. The view is worth the effort!
10<br />
Aix-en-Provence - Provencal city living<br />
Provence has a lot of villages, valleys,<br />
vineyards and orchards. The slow life in the<br />
breath-taking countryside is what attracts<br />
many to the area, but sometimes you might<br />
feel like a little urban action. Aix-en-<br />
Provence is the perfect city for a hit of<br />
European cosmopolitan flair.<br />
People watching on the famous Cours<br />
Mirabeau, under the shade of ancient plane<br />
trees with a glass of rosé can keep you<br />
entertained for hours as you rest from your<br />
market shopping: Tuesdays, Thursdays,<br />
and Saturdays for both the food and flower<br />
market. Then meander up to the Cathedral<br />
to see the baptistery - Aix’s oldest existing<br />
building which incredibly dates back to the<br />
year 500.<br />
On your way, you may find yourself stopping<br />
to taste the irresistible flavours of France.<br />
My personal favourites are madeleines,<br />
choux pastries, and Puyicard chocolate -<br />
simply divine!<br />
Art lovers can retrace the steps and visit the<br />
studio of the great Cezanne who captured<br />
its beauty and light in his paintings.<br />
Historians can see archaeological digs<br />
taking place. There is really is something for<br />
everyone in Aix.
Your Private Provence runs tours in Provence<br />
including a small group tour in which you visit all<br />
these top ten spots - and more - in September, an<br />
optimal time of the year for exploring the best of<br />
Provence.<br />
More information at www.yourprivateprovence.com
Lill<br />
Bucket loads of<br />
<strong>No</strong>rthern Franc
e<br />
charm and culture in<br />
e<br />
Lille is known for its cultural allure - it was European City of Culture in<br />
2004 and has never looked back. Old Lille’s architecture is stunning, a bit<br />
like a miniature Paris but with a dash of Flemish influence. Janine Marsh<br />
explores Lille's delights...
LILLE At a Glance<br />
Vieux Lille, the old town, is vibrant,<br />
exuberant and flamboyant. 17th century<br />
buildings, cobble stone streets, intimate<br />
courtyards, elegant squares and a thriving<br />
café culture. It's a bit like a miniature Paris<br />
but easier to discover and has a great vibe<br />
thanks to a young population.<br />
Lille is one of the top gastronomic cities in<br />
France with a plethora of restaurants. It’s<br />
also one of the most cultural and artistic<br />
cities in the country after being elected<br />
European Capital of Culture in 2004, which<br />
has led to it becoming the arty party capital<br />
of France. It’s a friendly city, ask directions<br />
and you’re likely to be personally led to your<br />
destination!<br />
Culture Vultures<br />
There are more than a dozen museums in<br />
Lille. Don’t miss the Palais des Beaux Arts<br />
which is said to hold the second richest<br />
collection of art in France after the Louvre in<br />
Paris, much of it acquired during Napoleon’s<br />
looting sprees during battle.<br />
Browse the second hand book market<br />
(Tuesday to Sunday 13.00-19.00) in the 17th<br />
century Vieille Bourse (former stock<br />
exchange), a Flemish Renaissance marvel<br />
of gargoyles and garlands.<br />
Modern art lovers will fall head over heels for<br />
TriPostal, an art venue in a former post<br />
office and Gare St Sauveur, a cultural centre<br />
in a former frieght station.
Getting Around and about<br />
Walking: Old Lille is a compact city and the<br />
best way to discover it is on foot! Be aware<br />
there are lots of cobble stone rues.<br />
Public transport: Bus, tram and metro, in<br />
fact the world’s first driverless trains were<br />
introduced here in 1983. Buy a book of<br />
tickets, 24 hour or evening pass for just a<br />
few Euros to use on all three modes of<br />
transport.<br />
There are two rail stations: Lille Flandres<br />
for Paris and local services and Lille Europe<br />
for international and fast trains round<br />
France. Lille Flandres station used to be the<br />
old Gare du <strong>No</strong>rd Paris. It was dismantled to<br />
make way for a new, bigger station and reerected<br />
stone by stone in Lille.<br />
Bike: Lille is a cycle friendly city where<br />
motorists are used to wobbly wheeled<br />
tourists. Hire a public bike from V'Lille<br />
Shopping<br />
Shops are closed on Sundays, and many on<br />
Monday morning. Rue de Bethune is good<br />
for high street style, Vieux Lille for luxury and<br />
high end goods (including Louis Vuitton and<br />
Hermès), Rue Royale for jewellery, bags,<br />
and accessories.<br />
Inside Track<br />
Hop on the tram or metro to nearby Roubaix<br />
and visit the art deco La Piscine museum in<br />
a converted public swimming pool - it has<br />
real wow factor (read more about it here).<br />
Everyone loves a French street market and<br />
Lille has several. Try Wazemmes Sunday<br />
market, one of the largest in France. A<br />
colourful, lively affair where you can furnish<br />
your house, wardrobe or pantry. You’re likely<br />
to hear accordion music here and witness<br />
spontaneous outbreaks of dancing – the<br />
Lillois (people of Lille) love to dance!
Where to Eat<br />
There are loads of restaurants in Lille from<br />
haute cuisine to local specialities…<br />
Fancy a snack: The best chips (a local<br />
speciality) in town can be found at:<br />
l’Express – eat in or take away.<br />
50 Place de la Gare<br />
Locals love: The bars and cafés of Place<br />
des Oignons such as Estaminet Au Vieux<br />
de la Vieille, with handwritten menus in<br />
children’s’ exercise books.<br />
2-4 Rue des Vieux Murs<br />
Wine and dine: Barbue d’Anvers, candles<br />
on book shelves, vintage décor in a<br />
gorgeous old building. A place to linger and<br />
enjoy delectable dishes of the region like<br />
carbonnade flamande (stew with beer and<br />
brown sugar), mussels cooked in white wine<br />
and a cheese platter that includes the local<br />
stinky, delicious Maroilles cheese<br />
1 bis rue Ste Etienne.<br />
Best Bars<br />
There are hundreds of bars in Lille…<br />
Quirky: Peekaboo (92 rue de l'Hôpital<br />
Militaire) is fun and friendly. Food is served<br />
lunchtimes, Tuesday to Saturday. Great<br />
ambience, décor, beers and cocktails.<br />
Splash out: The only Champagne Bar in<br />
Lille, located in a converted <strong>18</strong>th Century<br />
Convent that’s now the Couvent des<br />
Minimes Hotel and bar. (17 Quai du Wault)<br />
Popular with the locals: La Capsule: great<br />
selection of beers and friendly staff who are<br />
happy to advise on what beer to try, one of<br />
the best bars in town (25 Rue Trois<br />
Mollettes).<br />
Learn about beer: At Vivat Factory they’ll<br />
explain how and where beers are made and<br />
have a great beer tasting menu. appreciate<br />
its beauty.<br />
Place Gilleson
Above left: Grand<br />
Place, Lille; above:<br />
Champagne bar<br />
Couvent des Minimies<br />
Mussel power<br />
in Lille<br />
At the annual Lille<br />
Braderie, a giant flea<br />
market, it's traditional<br />
for restaurants to pile<br />
up empty mussel<br />
shells - the biggest<br />
pile is judged at the<br />
end of the 33 hour<br />
flea market marathon<br />
and the restaurant<br />
with the biggest pile<br />
claims the win!
Take home a taste of Lille<br />
Best chocolate and sweets: Meert has<br />
been delighting customers since 1761. Pop<br />
in to buy cakes, chocolate and the famous,<br />
sweet, flat waffles of the north - loved by the<br />
locals, royalty, General De Gaulle and<br />
Buffalo Bill! There's also a charming tea<br />
room where the hot chocolate wows.<br />
27 Rue Esquermoise<br />
Best cheese: Philippe Olivier is a legendary<br />
affineur (someone who matures cheese to<br />
perfection) in France; this is THE place to go<br />
for the best fromage ever.<br />
3 Rue du Cure Saint-Etienne<br />
Best boulangerie: Baker Alex Crouquet<br />
admits he is “fou de pain” - crazy about<br />
bread. His yeast mix is so important to him,<br />
he not only talks to it, he takes it on holiday<br />
with him! The bread is amazing – take a loaf<br />
home and savour the memory of your trip.<br />
66, rue Esquermoise<br />
Vieux Boulogne cheese at Philippe Olivier,<br />
officially the smelliest cheese in the world!<br />
Practical Info<br />
How to get there: Travel from central<br />
London to Lille by Eurostar in around<br />
1 hour 28 minutes. Details: Oui.SNCF<br />
Trains from Paris take 50 minutes.<br />
Website for Tourist Office: Lille Tourism
Montreuil-sur-Mer<br />
The little town in northern France that’s making<br />
gastronomic waves
Montreuil-sur-Mer sits atop a hill, encircled<br />
by ancient ramparts. Its medieval buildings<br />
and cobble stone streets have long attracted<br />
tourists including Laurence Sterne<br />
whilst writing his famous book “A Sentimental<br />
Journey”, Napoleon Bonaparte and<br />
the town’s favourite - Victor Hugo. The<br />
famous French playwright based his book<br />
Les Miserables on people he met and sights<br />
he saw in the town when visiting in <strong>18</strong>37.<br />
These days savvy Brits nip across the<br />
Channel to soak up the authentic French<br />
ambiance on their doorstep. They’re drawn<br />
not just to the town’s good looks but to the<br />
Saturday morning market, the terraced<br />
bistros, Michelin star restaurants and<br />
gourmet food shops.<br />
Montreuil-sur-Mer is special when it comes<br />
to gastronomy and that gave expat Brit Tim<br />
Matthews who runs the gorgeous Maison 76<br />
B&B in the town, the idea to create the label<br />
Destination Gastronomique. He and his<br />
business partner Michael Bennett joined<br />
with the town’s legendary chef, Alexandre<br />
Gaulthier who runs the famous La<br />
Grenouillère hotel and 2 Michelin Star<br />
restaurant in La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil.<br />
The historic little village sits on the edge of<br />
Montreuil-sur-Mer and attracts guests from<br />
around the world to indulge at the<br />
internationally renowned La Grenouillère.<br />
Together they launched the Destination<br />
Gastronomique website to showcase<br />
excellence in local products and restaurants.<br />
The joining criteria is strictly regulated, only<br />
the best of the best, and the team have held<br />
several food and wine events to great<br />
acclaim.<br />
Their next event will be held on Sunday 6<br />
May, a “Symphony for the Senses“. A wine<br />
and food event combined with a flea market,<br />
live music and vintage cars in a day long<br />
celebration of all things French and fine. It<br />
will take place in the squares of Montreuilsur-Mer<br />
and the surrounding streets – all are<br />
welcome.
Photo © Michael Bennett<br />
Programme of events<br />
Place General de Gaulle: Join in a<br />
fabulous wine tasting experience and<br />
indulge in snacks in the big main square of<br />
the town featuring produce from some of<br />
the best restaurants and gourmet food<br />
shops from the town including the<br />
renowned Boulangerie Gremont. Don’t<br />
miss a taste of one of their Jean Valjean<br />
bread loaves – a nod to Victor Hugo, and<br />
utterly delicious.<br />
6 May 20<strong>18</strong><br />
Montreuil-sur-Mer<br />
A Symphony for the Senses<br />
Cheese shop Caseus will also be present,<br />
they have become a tourist destination in<br />
their own right thanks to the simply<br />
awesome cheeses in store. And<br />
restaurants Le Caveau and Clos des<br />
Capucins will be on hand to tempt your<br />
taste buds.<br />
Place Darnetal: Vegetarian cookery<br />
demonstrations alongside local market<br />
gardeners supported by the boulangeries,<br />
chocolatiers and restaurants that line this<br />
pretty square.<br />
In the surrounding cobbled streets, the<br />
shops of rue d’Herambault and the rue des<br />
Cordonniers will especially open their<br />
doors from 10h-<strong>18</strong>h to visitors - with plenty<br />
of stop offs for refreshments.<br />
Place Gambetta: a chance to admire and<br />
assembly of vintage cars<br />
Musical entertainment from Gipsy Jazz to<br />
Rock and Pop will take place in the<br />
atmospheric Rue de Clape en Bas… and<br />
there will also be a braderie, a traditional<br />
French flea market!<br />
Finally, the town’s restaurants will be open<br />
for a long, lazy, scrumptious lunch.<br />
Photos: top left: Cave de Montreuil,<br />
sensational wine shop; top middle: Caseus<br />
cheese shop; top right: Tim Matthews and<br />
chef Alexandre Gaulthier of La Grenouillère
to<br />
Champagne
There’s nothing quite like the pop of a Champagne bottle to make<br />
you feel festive.<br />
With Reims, the capital of Champagne, just 45 minutes from Paris by<br />
train it’s the perfect day trip location but even more so for a sparkling<br />
weekend break. From Reims you can travel around the Champagne<br />
countryside on the "Bubbles Line". You really don’t need a car to get<br />
around and that means that you can also enjoy a glass or two without<br />
having to worry about being over the limit says Janine Marsh
Reims<br />
The city of Kings has treasures above, and below, ground.<br />
Reims train station is in the centre of town<br />
making it easy to walk to all the sites and<br />
there are many. UNESCO heritage sites<br />
abound here, perhaps the most well-known<br />
is the iconic Cathedral of <strong>No</strong>tre Dame.<br />
33 Kings were crowned in Reims from 816<br />
to <strong>18</strong>25 including Charles VII in 1429,<br />
accompanied by Joan of Arc. It comes as a<br />
shock to many visitors to discover that many<br />
of the sculptures featured on its façade are<br />
copies or casts. Damaged badly by<br />
bombing in World War I, the Cathedral was<br />
rebuilt. It says much about the integrity of<br />
the work carried out that this Cathedral is<br />
still considered one of the finest examples<br />
of Gothic architecture in the world. Statues<br />
of 63 kings, 3m high and weighing 6 tonnes<br />
each adorn the façade. It’s no less<br />
impressive inside where stained-glass<br />
windows dating to the 13th century vie for<br />
attention along-side the magnificent stainedglass<br />
windows designed by Marc Chagall.<br />
Next door, visit the Palais du Tau, the former<br />
Bishops’ Palace, and residence of Kings<br />
whilst awaiting coronation, is now a museum<br />
dedicated to the Cathedral. The St Remi<br />
Basilica which was mostly built in the 12th<br />
century is named after the Bishop of Reims<br />
who baptised Clovis, the King of the Franks<br />
in 496.<br />
Even older is the Roman legacy, the huge<br />
Port de Mars which stands majestically at<br />
the end of a busy road, it is quite simply<br />
astonishing.<br />
A huge area of Champagne itself has<br />
UNESCO status, including Reims, granted<br />
in 2015 in recognition of its Paysages de<br />
Champagne.
You can't go to Reims and not try<br />
Champagne - you're spoiled for choice.<br />
The city is built on top of miles of secret<br />
passages that contain millions of bottles of<br />
Champagne. Nicholas Ruinart started the<br />
trend for maturing Champagne in the<br />
chalky caves, the digging out of which was<br />
begun in the Gallo Roman period. There<br />
are several big Champagne makers<br />
including Mumm, Ruinart, Veuve Cliquot,<br />
Taittinger, Lanson and Drappier, who<br />
make the biggest bottles of Champagne<br />
known as a Melchizedekis. they hold 400<br />
glasses of bubbles!<br />
If you want to try Champagne from smaller<br />
producers and artisans head to the<br />
Champagne Treasures Boutique, where<br />
you can take a tasting - with more than<br />
160 different cuvées each week, you're<br />
sure to find one you absolutely love.<br />
When you’ve had your fill of history, take a<br />
break in one of the many restaurants and<br />
bars - one of the best reasons to visit.<br />
Locals love: Café du Palais is a 4th<br />
generation family run restaurant that has<br />
been pleasing the punters since 1930.<br />
Dishes on the menu pair perfectly with<br />
bubbles. 3 course menu €39.00 includes a<br />
glass of Champagne (14, Place Myron<br />
Herrick).<br />
Wine and dine: The Brasserie Excelsior<br />
near the train station has oodles of old<br />
school glamour, think chandeliers and<br />
banquettes and a style reminiscent of the<br />
Roaring Twenties. 2 course lunch menu<br />
from €28.50 (96 place Drouet d’Erlon).<br />
Make Tracks in Champagne<br />
From Reims, the capital of Champagne<br />
the region, you can take the train direct to<br />
Epernay the capital of Champagne the<br />
drink. But why not see a bit more of this<br />
glorious region and stop off en route...<br />
(see over)<br />
Champagne<br />
Champagne the drink, can only be called<br />
Champagne if it is produced from designated<br />
vineyards on the chalkland south of Reims.<br />
Other regions may produce sparkling wine<br />
but they can't call it Champagne.<br />
Vines have been cultivated on the steep<br />
slopes of the Marne since at least Roman<br />
times. It was the Romans who dug under<br />
Reims for chalk almost 2000 years ago,<br />
creating underground passages which have<br />
become the grandest cellars in the world,<br />
holding millions of bottles of Champagne,<br />
maturing in perfect conditions.<br />
Champagne is the world’s favourite festive<br />
drink - Cole Porter must be one of the few<br />
people who don't get a kick from it!<br />
Serve it chilled in a tall flute and never, say<br />
the experts, a coupe, those shallow round<br />
glasses allegedly modelled on the breast of<br />
Marie-Antoinette, or Madame Pompadour –<br />
depending on who you believe. Whatever, I<br />
think you should use whichever glass you<br />
like!<br />
Visit a Champagne House<br />
in Reims<br />
Enjoy a Champagne tasting either above or<br />
below ground via Champagne-Booking.com.<br />
They list cellar visits and Champagne tasting<br />
sessions including free tastings, with the<br />
famous domaines and with artisan<br />
producers. They can even tell you where to<br />
book a sabrage session (opening a<br />
Champagne bottle with a sword) in front of<br />
the Cathedral of <strong>No</strong>tre Dame, as well as<br />
master classes and a whole lot more.
Ligne des Bulles, the Bubbles Line<br />
The TER (regional train) line between<br />
Epernay and Reims is called by some<br />
locals: Ligne des Bulles, the Line of the<br />
Bubbles. It makes stops at several villages<br />
in the woodlands and vineyards of the area,<br />
a great way to get to see some of the small<br />
Champagne towns and meet producers at<br />
their vineyards. Here are three of the best:<br />
Rilly-la-Montagne is a charming village,<br />
one of the oldest in the area; here history<br />
and tradition are closely entwined. At the<br />
town hall pick up a copy of a walking guide<br />
of the town and vineyards. Don't miss the<br />
12th century church with its carved choir<br />
stall illustrating the stages of wine<br />
production. There are about 60 Champagne<br />
producers in the town and several offer<br />
cellar tours and tastings. Stop off for a<br />
special lunch at the splendid Chateau de<br />
Rilly, full on glamour amongst the vineyards.<br />
Ay whose motto is “the city that sparkles” is<br />
a lively sort of place. It’s said that King Henri<br />
IV of France loved the wines from here and<br />
owned his own wine press in Ay. Apparently,<br />
it was kept in the half-timbered house behind<br />
St Brice’s Church. Ay was already wellknown<br />
in the Gallo Roman period for the<br />
wines produced here. Around 40 producers<br />
are based in Ay and several offer cellar tours<br />
and tastings. Pop to the town hall to pick up<br />
a leaflet about the town (in English). There<br />
are several restaurants, mainly bistro style<br />
one of the most popular being the Rotisserie<br />
Henri IV named in honour of the town’s most<br />
famous fan.<br />
Avenay-Val-d’Or, just 7km from Epernay is<br />
sleepy and tranquil. There’s a 13th-16th<br />
century church and several Champagne<br />
houses to visit. From here it’s about a 20-<br />
minute walk to the tiny village of Mutigny<br />
from where you will get a wonderful view of<br />
the Montagne of Reims.
Moët et Chandon<br />
cellar entrance!<br />
The railway line from Paris reached<br />
Epernay in <strong>18</strong>49 and trade in<br />
Champagne boomed which led to the<br />
naming of the Avenue de Champagne.<br />
Previously known as rue Royale, and<br />
Fauborg du Commerce, it was renamed<br />
in 1925 and now receives almost half a<br />
million visitors each year<br />
Epernay<br />
The train station is in the centre of<br />
Epernay so you don't have to walk far to<br />
reach the sites, including the worldfamous<br />
Avenue de Champagne. Here<br />
you can't help but ogle at the famous<br />
names and beautiful buildings that line<br />
this long road. Underneath it are 110km<br />
of cellars filled with bottles maturing<br />
slowly, watched carefully by experts.<br />
The first Champagne house opened on<br />
the avenue in 1729, it belonged to Nicolas<br />
Ruinart. As with Reims, taking a cellar<br />
visit is practically the law in this<br />
effervescent little town and few can resist<br />
the allure of Moët et Chandon who moved<br />
to the Avenue in 1743.<br />
Take a tour with greeters.com, an<br />
initiative in which local people, passionate<br />
about the area where they live, share<br />
their local knowledge with visitors, it’s free<br />
of charge and you’ll get a real insider’s<br />
view of Epernay.
Hautvillers Champagne Prayer:<br />
Give me health for a long time,<br />
Work, not too often,<br />
Love, from time to time,<br />
But Champagne all the time!<br />
Tasting the Stars in Hautvillers<br />
5km north of Epernay is the place where legend<br />
has it, the story of Champagne bubbles began –<br />
Hautvillers.<br />
Dom Perignon was a French Benedictine monk<br />
who served at the Abbey of Hautvillers. He<br />
worked in the Abbey cellars for almost 50 years<br />
and much of his time was spent improving the<br />
methods for the maturation of wines, the<br />
blending of different grapes, corking the bottles<br />
and the pruning of vines to improve the grape<br />
quality. Apparently he actually spent much of his<br />
time trying to rid the wine of bubbles! He is<br />
though, the person we associate most with the<br />
invention of Champagne, and the legend that he<br />
cried “Brothers, come quick, I am tasting the<br />
stars” has stuck, in no small part thanks to<br />
brilliant French marketing.<br />
There’s no train station in Hautvillers but you<br />
can hire a bike (including electric bike) from<br />
Epernay Tourist Office, the ride takes around 30<br />
minutes: www.tourisme-hautvillers.com<br />
Information<br />
For train information see the OuiSNCF<br />
website where you can book tickets to<br />
Champagne. For travel direct in<br />
Champagne on the local trains, buying<br />
tickets at the station is fine.<br />
Oui.SNCF<br />
For more information on the region and<br />
its attractions see<br />
www.reims-tourism.com<br />
www.ot-epernay.com<br />
www.champagne-ardenne-tourism.<br />
com<br />
TER (SNCF)
Aveyron<br />
A taste of yesterday, a hint of tomorrow<br />
says Lucy Pitts
© D.Viet / CRT Midi-Pyrénées<br />
Aveyron echoes with the past. Every<br />
densely wooded gorge and valley, every<br />
ancient bastide town and every winding<br />
road seems to whisper of pilgrims making<br />
their weary way south, of Romans and<br />
rebellious Gauls or of Knights Templars,<br />
thundering across the plateaux.<br />
Part of the Massif Central but also the<br />
northern most part of the Midi-Pyrénées, as<br />
a department Aveyron has an earthiness, a<br />
simplicity and a quiet but wild ruggedness<br />
that’s hard to find elsewhere. Forests and<br />
vineyards cling to steep ravines, medieval<br />
villages poke their heads out of leafy<br />
canopies in the hills and rivers dotted with<br />
old mills and forges laze their way through<br />
cool musty valleys.<br />
landscape and you just have to take your<br />
time here and absorb.<br />
walk on the wild side<br />
The plateaux of the Aubrac to the north east<br />
of the region are vast, forlornly beautiful and<br />
represent the Aveyron at its most untamed.<br />
It feels wild and unconquered here with a<br />
haunting beauty to its bleakness and you<br />
can roam for hours in solitary delight<br />
interrupted by nothing more than mountain<br />
shelters (Burons) and the occasional Aubrac<br />
cow. It’s definitely the place to start if you<br />
want to imbibe the very soul of the region<br />
and it also harbours one of the ancient<br />
pilgrim trails that cuts across France.<br />
<strong>No</strong> one seems to be in a rush here and the<br />
region’s cuisine remains deeply connected<br />
with its past and its terrain. It’s all about the
3 star taste of the Aubrac plateaux<br />
It’s hard to imagine how it must have felt to<br />
the tired travellers as they bowed their<br />
heads into the wind and pushed on to the<br />
south. But, if you have the time, follow in<br />
their footsteps a while across and down<br />
from the lofty plateaux. You'll cross through<br />
the pretty hillside villages and into the thick<br />
and craggy relief of forests of chestnut, pine<br />
and oak. Gradually you will be drawn on to<br />
the beautiful haven of Conques.<br />
But if you can’t travel the trail and don’t want<br />
to meander alone, join one of the “Aubrac<br />
Rando” guided walking tours. They leave<br />
from the village of Laguiole and this way,<br />
you'll get a real sense of these hills.<br />
www.rando-aubrac.co<br />
It’s an area which was also the childhood<br />
home of Michel Bras (the only three star<br />
Michelin - chef in the region) who says that<br />
he takes much of his inspiration from the<br />
2,000 local varieties of flora and fauna that<br />
you’ll find here.<br />
His restaurants is just 10 minutes outside<br />
the village of Aubrac, and hovers like a<br />
floating beacon of luxury, indulgence and all<br />
that is modern, with glass walls giving way to<br />
dramatic views over the valley to Laguiole.<br />
You’ll find that the dishes served here are as<br />
much about art and poetry as they are about<br />
the terrain with the emphasis on edible<br />
flowers, herbs, beauty and all that’s in<br />
season. There’s a hotel here too but you will<br />
need to book.<br />
www.bras.fr
A sip of the new generation<br />
Wandering down from Conques and the<br />
Aubrac, it’s an easy and logical journey on to<br />
the now regenerated, up and coming wine<br />
growing region and appellation of Marcillac.<br />
It’s a relatively unknown appellation which has<br />
risen from the ashes of the almost extinct wine<br />
production that the monks from Conques and<br />
the wealthy merchants of Rodez enjoyed<br />
many centuries ago.<br />
Renowned for its reddish soil, if you look<br />
carefully you can still see the overgrown and<br />
forgotten vines of the past. And steeply<br />
terraced vineyards now cling to either side of<br />
the valley in a south facing arch, bordered to<br />
the north by the forests, producing spicy and<br />
rustic reds (as well as some rosés)<br />
predominantly from the Fer Servadou<br />
(Mansois) grape and they slip down very<br />
comfortably with earthy local cuisine.<br />
© P. Thebault<br />
There’s a vastly updated cooperative here at<br />
the Vignerons du Vallon with an excellent<br />
visitor centre a short distance from Rodez<br />
which showcases the history and production<br />
of Marcillac. But better still in the summer<br />
months, the local village of Valady is a<br />
wonderfully indulgent way to relax, unwind<br />
and experience local wine and cuisine at their<br />
weekly Saturday fete.<br />
www.vigneronsduvallon.com/en
Far right, Aubrac; mid top; the market<br />
at Villedranche-de-Rouergue; below far<br />
left: the Cathedral at Rodez; below<br />
Street in Villefranche-de-Rouergue<br />
assault on your senses in<br />
Villefranche-de-Rouergue<br />
Before you head on further south, allow<br />
yourself yet another indulgence and head<br />
west over the rolling hills to Villefranchede-Rouergue,<br />
one of the region’s five 13th<br />
century “new concept” bastide towns with<br />
a distinctly southern feel. From the<br />
rawness of the Aubrac and the deep<br />
gorges and ravines cut by the rivers<br />
Aveyron and Dordou, arriving in the<br />
evening to the grid style streets, tall<br />
timbered merchant’s houses and<br />
limestone arcades has a refreshing feel to<br />
it. But come morning, particularly on<br />
market day (Thursday) the town explodes<br />
into a melting pot of colours, scents,<br />
sounds and irresistibly tasty treats.<br />
One of the best in Aveyron, the body of<br />
the market fills the main square (Place<br />
<strong>No</strong>tre Dame) but spills out in every<br />
direction showcasing fruit, veg, spices,<br />
sticky sweets, warm breads and<br />
patisseries, herbs, flowers, meats slow<br />
turning on the spit and vast pans of<br />
steaming shell fish, all teasing and<br />
tempting you into the many backstreets.<br />
When you’re ready, escape down to the<br />
calm of the esplanade near the riverbank<br />
where you can cool off in the sleepy<br />
shade of a plane tree before continuing on<br />
your journey south.
© T.Lambelin<br />
A glimpse of the future at<br />
the Millau Viaduct<br />
The river and gorges of the Tarn are well<br />
known enough and undoubtedly it’s worth<br />
losing yourself for a while here in what is the<br />
deepest canyon in France, while you<br />
recover from the excesses of Villefranche.<br />
But this really is a place where the vastness<br />
of nature meets the enormity of human<br />
creation and if the Pont du Gard transports<br />
you back to the time of the Romans, I’m not<br />
quite sure where <strong>No</strong>rman Foster’s Millau<br />
Viaduct will take you.<br />
Higher than the Eiffel Tower, 270 metres<br />
above the ground, it is the highest road<br />
bridge deck and the longest suspension<br />
bridge in the world, straddling the Tarn valley<br />
and has been described as one of the<br />
greatest engineering achievements of all<br />
time.<br />
Don’t rush the experience, it’s one of those<br />
places that you just have to reflect on for a<br />
while. <strong>No</strong>rth of the bridge is a service station<br />
area created out of old farm buildings with a<br />
great viewing platform which is best enjoyed<br />
at dawn or dusk.
The service station is also dedicated to local<br />
produce and includes an eatery run by<br />
Michel Bras’ brother where you can sample<br />
his unique “capuchins”, a pancake style<br />
cone filled a choice of gastronomic delights.<br />
But for me, the only way to really savour this<br />
spectacular vision of the future is to head to<br />
nearby Creissels, between April and<br />
October, and just slow things down for a<br />
while with a boat trip. It’s a wonderful way to<br />
enjoy the Tarn, its wild life and pretty river<br />
bank villages like the well-known Peyre (one<br />
of the “most beautiful villages of France”),<br />
but the real pleasure is that you also slip<br />
quietly under the huge, shimmering viaduct.<br />
You can’t rush the Aveyron. You must stop<br />
and try its earthy cheeses and local dishes;<br />
its Aligot and Flaune, its Roquefort and its<br />
Pérail. You must listen to its memories and<br />
think about all who’ve gone before you. And<br />
you must explore and soak up its earthy,<br />
wholesome soul.<br />
www.millau-viaduc-tourisme.co.uk<br />
www.bateliersduviaduc.com
Stop off in Milau<br />
for a bite...<br />
Close to that awesome bridge (and<br />
providing a surreal backdrop) is the ancient<br />
town of Millau, home to a rich history and<br />
beautiful architecture, Roman pottery and<br />
fine leather glove making. It's a pretty town<br />
and also a good place to stop off to enjoy a<br />
leisurely bite to eat and enjoy the stunning<br />
scenery of Aveyron.<br />
A great place to start on this culinary trail is<br />
at the unassuming looking Restaurant<br />
Capion. Tucked away very close to the heart<br />
of the city, you’ll find a good mix of<br />
traditional, local recipes and ingredients<br />
including Roquefort and Aligot, combined<br />
with more international ideas. They also<br />
offer a very reasonably priced express menu<br />
for lunch during the week which includes<br />
three courses and a ¼ of wine for just<br />
€16.50. It has a simple and modern feel and<br />
the dishes are a treat for the eye.<br />
www.restaurant-capion.fr<br />
For something a little more modern try the<br />
Restaurant Estanco. The chef here<br />
describes his cuisine as inspired by the ‘near<br />
and far’ of his travels. He specialises in fish<br />
and seafood dishes and combines<br />
everything from Creole to classic French<br />
with lots of colour and spice.<br />
www.estanco.fr<br />
Based around the idea of a tea room (hence<br />
it’s known as Cake’t), this small but<br />
welcoming restaurant serves a very<br />
reasonably priced lunch and is a real delight.<br />
The husband and wife team make charming<br />
hosts, explaining their dishes, which often<br />
include fabulous soups and fresh bread, in<br />
detail and with a great deal of pride. Or if<br />
you have time or space for nothing more,<br />
why not just catch your breath for a while<br />
and enjoy a slice of their cake in the<br />
sunshine of southern France.
Roquefort cheese, can only be called Roquefort<br />
if its matured in the caves of Rouquefort-sur-<br />
Soulzon as it has been for 1000 years<br />
Whilst it may look humble from the outside,<br />
Au Jeu De Paume is set in a beautifully<br />
restored old building with an open fire,<br />
beamed ceilings and a lovely terraced<br />
courtyard. You can enjoy all the local<br />
specialities here and watch the larger meat<br />
cuts being cooked on an open grill. It’s<br />
thoroughly atmospheric and their two or<br />
three course ‘formule’ start at just €12-15.<br />
www.aujeudepaume-millau.com<br />
Finally, if you fancy getting away from the<br />
hustle and bustle of Millau, then why not take<br />
a 7 km detour to the beautiful village of<br />
Peyre. The only restaurant in the village, it<br />
sits above the river with great views across<br />
the countryside and you can see the Millau<br />
viaduct in the distance too. It’s reasonably<br />
basic fodder but good quality, good value for<br />
money and with a welcoming feel.<br />
www.facebook.com/LEstival
Janine Marsh visits the<br />
pickled in the past town of<br />
Sarlat in the Dordogne, the<br />
perfect weekend destination.<br />
Photo: Patricia Bruce
in<br />
Sarlat<br />
You just can’t help but fall in love when you<br />
visit the ancient town of Sarlat. The medieval<br />
buildings, fabulous market and gourmet food<br />
shops are so enticing. The cobbled streets<br />
lure you on to discover winding alleyways,<br />
steep stairways and their treasures. It's a<br />
town where restaurants serve the most<br />
delicious of local dishes with pride and flair.<br />
You can easily spend a weekend or much<br />
longer here enjoying the ambiance, the food<br />
and the sights. And you’ll always yearn to<br />
return…<br />
Time warp town<br />
Visiting Sarlat is like stepping into the past.<br />
You’ll discover a friendly town that’s full of<br />
surprises and intoxicatingly pretty. It has the<br />
look of a gorgeous film set but this is a living,<br />
working town that just happens to be<br />
incredibly ancient and quite extraordinarily<br />
pretty.<br />
Of course all this is bound to have mass<br />
appeal and Sarlat gets very busy in the<br />
summer months. Go outside of July and<br />
August though and it’s much quieter and life<br />
goes on pretty much as it has done for<br />
centuries here in the heart of Dordogne.<br />
It’s a town that has a long and colourful<br />
history. For ten years from 1360 it was an<br />
English garrison town and even before that it<br />
was well known thanks to a monk who<br />
became Bishop of Sarlat and was made a<br />
Saint after it was said he could cure lepers<br />
and raised his father from the dead. St<br />
Sarcedos died in AD250 and the Cathedral in<br />
Sarlat is dedicated to him.<br />
He’s not the only one to have performed<br />
miracles here. In 1147 Saint Bernard passed<br />
through Sarlat and cured the sick with loaves<br />
he’d blessed. The event is commemorated<br />
by the 12th century tower of Saint-Bernard,<br />
known as the Lanterne des Morts (lantern of<br />
the dead). You’ll see this dark and peculiar<br />
building behind the cathedral.<br />
Much of the architecture is from the 15th to<br />
the 17th century and the Renaissance<br />
influence is strong. That it is so unchanged is<br />
due to the fact that for some time, the town<br />
was cut off.
Sarlat – sleeping beauty<br />
of Dordogne<br />
In the mid <strong>18</strong>00’s Sarlat pretty much went to<br />
sleep due to the lack of good roads to the<br />
town. People moved away, houses were left<br />
empty, Sarlat became run down and was on<br />
its way to falling into ruin. In fact it wasn’t<br />
until the second half of the 20th century that<br />
people began to realise just how special<br />
Sarlat is.<br />
In 1958 the then Minister of Culture, Andre<br />
Malraux, who had lived in Sarlat for a while,<br />
pushed through a law for the protection and<br />
restoration of old buildings and old areas of<br />
towns. The law mentioned Sarlat as an<br />
example and soon after, work began to<br />
restore the once neglected streets and<br />
buildings to their former glory. Sarlat has<br />
never looked back and is now one of the<br />
jewels of Dordogne.<br />
If the weather is good take the glass lift to<br />
the top of what was the tower of the church<br />
of Ste-Marie. You’ll be rewarded with<br />
outstanding views over the rooftops of<br />
Sarlat. The deconsecrated building, which<br />
was started in 1367, was turned into an<br />
arms store after the French Revolution and<br />
since then has been a series of shops and<br />
was even used by the post office. <strong>No</strong>w<br />
redesigned by famous French architect Jean<br />
<strong>No</strong>uvel, it makes for a fantastic covered<br />
market. The Saturday morning market is<br />
simply outstanding.<br />
A muddle of medieval streets impress, and<br />
in rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau you’ll spot<br />
the 17th century Chapelle des Penitents<br />
Blanc where the poor people of Sarlat once<br />
worshipped.<br />
Book a one hour guided tour (in English) at<br />
the tourist office which is in a 16th century<br />
former mansion in Place de la Liberté. It’s an<br />
excellent way to discover more about the<br />
secrets and sites of Sarlat.
One of the best times to see Sarlat is as the<br />
sun is setting when the buildings seem to<br />
glow, but even when its raining it’s still<br />
incredibly beautiful.<br />
Don’t miss<br />
The Place du Marché des Oies, where a<br />
goose market was once held and now home<br />
to three life size bronze geese – the perfect<br />
selfie spot. The square is surrounded by<br />
superb old houses and shops. Just around<br />
the corner in in rue des Consuls is a<br />
gorgeous 14th century house, Hotel Plamon<br />
which once belonged to cloth merchants.<br />
Sarlat for gastronomes<br />
The Saturday market spreads through the<br />
cobbled streets. Stalls piled with local,<br />
seasonal produce – walnuts, garlic, cheeses<br />
and charcuterie, fruit and veg and artisan<br />
made bread, it really is irresistible. A daily<br />
market is held in the former church of Ste-<br />
Marie where St Bernard once preached and<br />
where the doors are big enough for a giant<br />
to pass through. A night market takes place<br />
throughout the year on Thursdays.<br />
Specialist markets for truffles and foie gras<br />
are held. And if you’re thinking that’s a lot of<br />
markets – well that’s because this place is a<br />
food lovers destination extraordinaire.<br />
The squares and tiny streets are lined with<br />
gourmet food shops selling all manner of<br />
deliciousness. Restaurants galore tempt on<br />
every corner.
Locals Love: Le Bistrot de l’Octroi, 111,<br />
Avenue de Selves, it has a cosy<br />
atmosphere, friendly service and a menu<br />
that favours local and seasonal produce.<br />
2-course lunch menu from €14.50 and a<br />
special house menu of the best of the area<br />
such as cepes, duck and goose and<br />
desserts such as crème brulee featuring<br />
local walnuts.<br />
Wine and dine: Le Presidial in a 16th<br />
century building in the heart of Sarlat just<br />
behind the market. On a sunny day the<br />
terrace is perfect to enjoy al fresco dining,<br />
inside is elegant and utterly charming,<br />
there’s even a balcony area for those very<br />
special occasions. Old school,<br />
unpretentious, refined dining at its best,<br />
local specialities, and dishes with flair. A<br />
great menu that’s also great value €19.50<br />
for 3 course lunch menu (take it from me,<br />
it’s a bargain). 6 rue Landry (book in<br />
advance if you can, this place is very<br />
popular).<br />
Major Annual Events<br />
With an all year-round calendar of events,<br />
there’s plenty going on in Sarlat. Art, film<br />
and theatre, sports and heritage and of<br />
course food with truffle, foie gras, culinary<br />
academie and the Fete de la Gastronomie.<br />
Details: www.sarlat-tourisme.com<br />
Practical Information<br />
By train: Paris to Sarlat via Bordeaux takes<br />
from 4 hours 53 minutes.<br />
Website for tourist office:<br />
www.sarlat-tourisme.com/en
Postcard from Paris in the spring<br />
Antoine Collas, a Paris photographer shares his favourite photos of the city of light in the<br />
spring. Originally from Aix-en-Provence he now lives in Paris and never tires of taking<br />
photos of the ever changing scenery. His favourite location is along the Seine River which<br />
he says "never looks the same"...
Montmartre is magical<br />
and one of the best place<br />
for photographers.<br />
Featured in "Midnight in<br />
Paris" the pretty cobbled<br />
streets, old buildings and<br />
street artists make for<br />
one of the best places to<br />
take a stroll. Take a<br />
break at La Halte du<br />
Sacre Coeur restaurant,<br />
bar and tea room (45<br />
Rue Custine) for<br />
authentic food, great<br />
service, good value and<br />
popular with the locals.<br />
The carousel (in French it's<br />
called manège) by the Eiffel<br />
Tower, it's the perfect<br />
location for a photo of<br />
Paris's Grand Dame and it's<br />
really popular with local<br />
children, wedding couples<br />
and tourists.
Paris is ever changing. There<br />
are the ancient streets and<br />
buildings as well as new and<br />
innovative architecture like<br />
the Louis Vuitton art<br />
foundation designed by<br />
Frank Gehry. The landscape<br />
is alive....<br />
Head to Le Marais<br />
neighbourhood and enjoy<br />
coffee or a hot chocolate<br />
early on a Saturday or<br />
Sunday morning before the<br />
city starts to be active. You'll<br />
feel like a local and really<br />
understand the vibe of Paris...<br />
a big city but with the feel of<br />
a village at times.<br />
See more of Antoine's<br />
photographs on<br />
Instagram @<br />
Toinou1375
10 brilliant tours in France<br />
in 20<strong>18</strong><br />
Travel like a local!<br />
We've picked ten fabulous tours in France where the experience is built around what YOU<br />
want to see and do.<br />
Small Group tours<br />
Each and every private tour is different and they are all small group tours.<br />
Enjoy the trip of a lifetime<br />
There’s no shoving to get on and off the bus on these tours, no rushing from one<br />
monument to another with no time to truly appreciate the history and the beauty.<br />
Whether you’re a lover of chateaux, culture, gourmet cuisine, wonderful wines, gorgeous<br />
countryside, the prettiest villages – these are tours that are full of thrills and wonder.
culture & gastronomy<br />
Gers - Gascony<br />
Gorgeous<br />
Gascony<br />
Tours<br />
culture & cookery in<br />
provence<br />
Culture &<br />
Gastronomy<br />
Tours<br />
<strong>No</strong>urish your soul and unleash your spirit<br />
of adventure in Gascony. With tour guide<br />
Sue Aran, you'll experience the famous<br />
food, wine and Amagnac of the region.<br />
You'll discover where to find the best<br />
antique shops and flea markets, the most<br />
beautiful villages and magnificent<br />
chateaux. From one day to week long<br />
tours that are customised for you.<br />
Cooking classes with chefs in their homes<br />
where you'll cook "authentic French<br />
dishes, no frou frou or crazy foam" says<br />
tour guide Martine Bertin-Peterson. You'll<br />
shop at the enchanting street markets<br />
with chefs and dine at the most<br />
scrumptious restaurants in the beautiful<br />
towns of Provence on this fully escorted<br />
trip of a life time.<br />
MORE<br />
wine & gastronomy<br />
loire valley<br />
Wine &<br />
Gastronomy<br />
Tours<br />
MORE<br />
provence lavender<br />
tours<br />
Lavender &<br />
Cultural<br />
Tours<br />
On this tour you’re accompanied by your<br />
very own private in-house chef, gourmet<br />
dining catered to your personal taste.<br />
There are visits to the most stunning<br />
vineyards and you'll indulge in the very<br />
best Loire Valley wines. You’ll learn how<br />
to do a wine tasting like the professionals<br />
and meet some of the region’s most<br />
interesting producers with charming hosts<br />
Kimberley and Walter Eagleton.<br />
MORE<br />
Small group fully escorted tours or day<br />
trips in Provence with local expat Emily<br />
Durand. You'll get to experience the<br />
glorious lavender fields and the most<br />
picturesque towns like St Remy de<br />
Provence and gorgeous Gordes.<br />
Indulge in scrumptious Mediterranean<br />
cuisine and fine wines and experience<br />
Provence in all its summer glory.<br />
MORE
south of france<br />
summer<br />
normandy in summer<br />
The real<br />
south of<br />
France Tours<br />
<strong>No</strong>rmandy<br />
like a local<br />
Tours<br />
Discover real southern France from<br />
captivating Carcassonne to magical<br />
Montpellier and the best of Provence.<br />
Tours lasting 7 days or 9 days in which<br />
you'll get to be a temporary local and<br />
indulge in the best Occitanie and<br />
Provence has to offer from gastronomy to<br />
culture and then some. This is a tour for<br />
those who love the authentic.<br />
Discover the best of <strong>No</strong>rmandy: history,<br />
gastronomy, beaches and the most<br />
beautiful monuments from Mont St Michel<br />
to Monet's Garden at Giverny and historic<br />
sites. You'll explore the places most<br />
visitors miss with local guides Julia and<br />
Stephane. This is a tour that's anything<br />
but average, you'll feel like you're visiting<br />
<strong>No</strong>rmandy with friends.<br />
MORE<br />
Porsche, alsace,<br />
champagne, Paris<br />
Luxury<br />
Car & wine<br />
Tours<br />
MORE<br />
provence in autumn<br />
Provence<br />
like a local<br />
Tour<br />
The Porsche, Alsace, Champagne and<br />
Paris luxury trip will take you from<br />
Stuttgart to France and two of the most<br />
famous wine regions of France –<br />
Champagne and Alsace, then to Paris.<br />
This luxury trip includes 5-star hotels,<br />
Michelin starred dining & Champagne in<br />
Reims. Best of all you will have the<br />
opportunity to drive a Porsche GTS 911<br />
on the unlimited speed Autobahn!<br />
MORE<br />
This really is a special trip. The best of<br />
Provence – the sights, the villages, the<br />
culture. You'll be immersed into the<br />
authentic Provencal lifestyle and culure<br />
from playing petanque, tasting the most<br />
amazing wines and enjoying sensational<br />
meals. Visit the very best of Provence,<br />
Cassis, Gordes, Aix-enProvence and<br />
many more of the most beautiful towns -<br />
and get to know them like a local.<br />
MORE
ordeaux in october<br />
christmas in alsace<br />
Bordeaux<br />
wine<br />
tour<br />
Magical<br />
Christmas<br />
Tour<br />
Bordeaux in the fall, the perfect time to<br />
visit as the grapes are picked, the wines<br />
are in production and there's an air of<br />
celebration. This tour introduces you to<br />
the legendary wines of the region,<br />
accompanied by a renowned wine expert<br />
with private wine tastings in the most<br />
amazing locations from chateaux to<br />
vineyards. Exquisite food with your own<br />
chef and Chateau accommodation.<br />
MORE<br />
It doesn't get much more festive than this:<br />
visit Alsace and the capital of Christmas -<br />
Strasbourg. Explore charming Colmar with<br />
its famous Christmas market and the<br />
exquisite fairy tale towns of Riquewihr and<br />
Ribeauville which twinkle at this time of<br />
year. Discover wine towns like<br />
Kayserberg, so pretty it looks like<br />
something out of a Disney movie, Enjoy<br />
gourmet meals, fabulous accommodation<br />
MORE
YOUR PHOTOS<br />
Every weekend, we invite you to share your photos on Facebook - it's a great way for<br />
everyone to see "real" France and be inspired by real travellers snapping pics as they go.<br />
Every week there are utterly gorgeous photos being shared and here we showcase the<br />
most popular of each month. Share your favourite photos with us on Facebook - the most<br />
"liked" will appear in the next issue of The Good Life France Magazine...<br />
Pretty in Spring, Paris by @saagoo on Instagram
Chateauneuf in<br />
Burgundy on a<br />
rainy late spring<br />
morning. It's<br />
officially one of<br />
the prettiest<br />
villages in France,<br />
& it's well worth a<br />
visit (close to<br />
Beaune & Dijon).<br />
By Don Knipfer<br />
Join us on Facebook<br />
and like and share<br />
your favourite photos<br />
of France...<br />
The colours of Nice<br />
- bright<br />
bougainvillea<br />
flowers tumbling<br />
over balconies in<br />
the sun...<br />
by Sudarshan<br />
Ruikar
Borderline<br />
Skiing<br />
Michael Cranmer skidaddles to an as yet hardly<br />
known skiers paradise - the French Cottian Alps<br />
Maybe you’ve skied the ‘Big’Uns’: The Three Valleys, Tignes/Val d’Isère, Paradiski.<br />
With eyes (and credit card) watering, you’ve paid the price for access to those<br />
endless kilometres. But - and here’s the rub - how many of the pistes you paid to<br />
use have you actually been on? My guess is only a fraction.<br />
So, time for a reality check. Quality v Quantity.<br />
Remember the old adage, big is not always better? We all want more for our money<br />
whilst not compromising on quality. In the course of my job I get to ski a vast range of<br />
resorts and countries and here’s my Top Tip for a mid-price, but definitely not mid-quality,<br />
resort that has got pretty much all you could want.<br />
Where? Where? Answer: Montgènevre.<br />
Unh?
<strong>No</strong>w some of you will have heard of it, but<br />
I’m guessing most won’t. It’s way down<br />
south, technically the French Cottian Alps.<br />
Think Briançon. But there’s a twist. It’s slapbang<br />
on the Italian border, perched beside<br />
an ancient high pass, now an important<br />
Route National. (This is beginning to sound<br />
like estate-agent’s speak for a mansion<br />
yards away from a motorway – “easy<br />
access to transport links”). Heavy lorries do<br />
go past all hours of the day and night, but<br />
you’d never know it because they’re<br />
underground in a tunnel built for the 2006<br />
Winter Olympics in Turin.<br />
That’s another bit of info to perk your ears<br />
up. Turin Airport is only 1 hour and 20<br />
minutes away…half the time it takes to get<br />
from Geneva to the Big’Uns.<br />
So far so good.
The snowy mountains of<br />
Montgènevre<br />
Its location on the pass means huge<br />
dumps of snow scooped up as<br />
precipitation in the south and north give<br />
the area an enviable snow record.<br />
What about the mountains? The village is<br />
at 1,850m, the top lift 2,630m. The skiing<br />
divides into three sectors. First off the<br />
south-facing Le Chalvet, two lifts whizzing<br />
you up from the centre of the village. Pack<br />
a camera as the views over the Ecrins<br />
National Park and Briançon are stunners.<br />
Open reds, easily ridden by competent<br />
intermediates swoop joyfully down to<br />
midpoint. Where better for my invariable<br />
11.00 hot chocolate stop than Les<br />
Terraces? The clue is in the name, a wide<br />
sunny affair with comfy sofas dotted<br />
around…easy to sink into, not so easy to<br />
get out of.<br />
TopTip: have a Café Gourmand. A perfect<br />
Italian espresso with not one, not two, but<br />
five! yummy, tasty sides. Lie back in the sun<br />
and reflect on your excellent choice.<br />
Later in the morning the sun will have<br />
warmed the opposing side of the valley.<br />
Head for Les Gondrans with its very<br />
different vibe. Up past the nursery slopes<br />
through trees to wide higher runs peaking<br />
at L’Observatoire, one of a ring of old<br />
tactical military forts. There are choices<br />
from here, each guaranteed to raise a smile.<br />
Blues, reds, and endless off-piste delights.<br />
If you feel fit, try a top-to-bottom nonstopper<br />
and earn yourself boasting rights in<br />
Le Graal, Montgènevre’s après ski<br />
epicentre.
Endless off piste<br />
delights await the<br />
skier who is lucky<br />
enough to discover<br />
Mongenevre<br />
Chilled out L'Aigle<br />
Moving on. The third sector, L’Aigle, is<br />
dramatically different to the others. A long<br />
and slow chair transports you over terrain<br />
untouched by humans but imprinted hither<br />
and thither with the tracks of foxes and<br />
alpine hares. It’s a great ride in sunny<br />
weather, but not recommended if there’s a<br />
wind blowing. Consequently, you might<br />
find yourself the only occupant of the<br />
meandering red Souréou linking with the<br />
black Les Rhodos further down. Both are<br />
achievable by confident intermediates…in<br />
the right conditions.<br />
Most accommodation is on the sunny<br />
south-facing side of the valley, centred<br />
around ancient streets and alleys, with an<br />
obligatory old church and spire. It’s<br />
definitely not party-central. think tranquil,<br />
relaxed and chilled out. Bars and<br />
restaurants sit shoulder-to-shoulder along<br />
what could easily be the sea-front, except<br />
its snow. The last few years have seen the<br />
development of some swish familyorientated<br />
upmarket apartments, each with<br />
shops, swimming pool, sauna, and ski hire,<br />
close to the slopes.<br />
I stayed in the Le Hameau des Airelles,<br />
only 16 steps from my front door to the ski<br />
lift. A few more steps down was Le Chalet<br />
des Gourmandises, the morning essential<br />
stop for fresh, warm croissants. Across the<br />
road, Intersport provided top-of-the-range<br />
skis and boots.<br />
Love thy Neighbour<br />
Here’s where I reveal Montgènevre’s next door<br />
neighbour… Claviere in Italy!
So close they’re practically semi-detached.<br />
Like all good neighbours they get along<br />
famously, swopping recipes, intermarrying,<br />
sharing mountains and slopes. Yes, they’ve<br />
had past disagreements, but that’s all<br />
forgotten now.<br />
Skiing the Milky Way<br />
And, beyond little Claviere, is the Via<br />
Lattea –The Milky Way – 400km of pistes<br />
and the resorts of Sestriere, Sauze d’Oulx,<br />
San Sicario, and Cesana. You can choose<br />
to stay within a local sector, or buy a lift<br />
pass for all. Top Tip: find your ski legs in<br />
Montgenevre, then venture further afield.<br />
It’s entirely viable to ‘do’ the Milky Way in a<br />
day, but remember: Quality v Quantity.<br />
Time for some cross-border action. There’s<br />
no queueing for Passport Control, but it is a<br />
bit of a slog. After a hold-your-nerve schuss<br />
down a blue trying to keep some speed, the<br />
run flattens out into a walk as you realise<br />
you’re in Italy. Fantastico! Even more<br />
fantastic is the name of the sector, Monti<br />
de la Luna. It was here I had one of the<br />
most memorable runs of my life, not on a<br />
steep black, or some narrow couloir, but a<br />
simple green.<br />
From the Colla Bercia 2293m to Cesana<br />
1360m, piste #90 (numbers not names in<br />
Italy) meandered down a farm track<br />
overhung with branches heavy with snow,<br />
forming an ice-tunnel, dappled shadows<br />
contrasting with shafts of piercing sunlight.<br />
I slowly snow-ploughed the more to prolong<br />
my enjoyment of the moment, the place,<br />
and my senses. I don’t believe it could ever<br />
be that perfect again.<br />
To finish, back at the top lift, the rickety old<br />
hostel Baita della Luna served awful<br />
burgers, but wonderful homemade Zuppa<br />
de Ceci con bruschetta (Chickpea soup with<br />
bruscetta)<br />
It’s the simple things that stay.<br />
Michael Cranmer was a guest of<br />
Montgènevre Tourist Office, www.<br />
montgenevre.com<br />
He stayed at Le Hameau des Airelles<br />
courtesy of Zenith Holidays, www.<br />
zenithholidays.co.uk
Photo: J'adore la France
La<br />
Belle<br />
Vie<br />
Joanna Leggett, director of<br />
marketing and public relations at<br />
Leggett Immobillier explains the best<br />
ways to integrate into French life,<br />
beginning with the importance of<br />
learning the language and adapting to<br />
the culture<br />
Every now and again, as I travel through<br />
France, I have to stop and pinch myself. I<br />
am actually living my dream! All the<br />
magical places I'd read about for so many<br />
years are passing by my window.<br />
France seduces your senses:<br />
The warmth of the sun on your back; smells<br />
of fresh bread and coffee from the local<br />
boulangerie; the scent of flowers – you only<br />
have to sniff lavender oil to recall the fields<br />
that turn the south of France purple.<br />
The countryside is peaceful, from the<br />
verdant landscape, where luscious vines<br />
spill over their supports, to the coastal<br />
resorts and pretty fishing villages.<br />
And the French certainly know how to eat<br />
well: oysters and fresh fish from the coast;<br />
truffles from the Dordogne; salt-marsh lamb,<br />
tender Limousin beef, and of course, the<br />
cheeses.<br />
Am I waxing lyrical? Mais oui, bien sûr.<br />
Living in France means much more than<br />
indulging your olfactory senses. It's not an<br />
extended summer holiday, and it will take<br />
some time to adapt to your new life. There<br />
will be ups and downs – but, to my mind, it<br />
cannot be bettered. So how should we adapt<br />
to life in France? In my opinion, the two<br />
basics are language and culture.<br />
LANGUAGE<br />
First, you must try to learn French.<br />
Communication really is key. In the UK we<br />
wouldn't expect to switch languages to<br />
converse with a new neighbour. The French<br />
are extremely courteous and polite. You<br />
need to be able to converse so that you can<br />
be courteous in return. At first you may find<br />
your language skills limited to the needs for<br />
materials for the travaux (renovations) on<br />
your house, and the weather; however, it<br />
won't be long before you want to discuss the<br />
matters of the day and to make friends.
Language classes, French radio and<br />
television will help in your quest to settle<br />
here. My school-French was pretty rusty, so<br />
I went to language classes when I first<br />
arrived. We listen to French radio in the car<br />
and watch the actualités (news) on French<br />
TV – though we do turn over to British TV<br />
for Downton! Your 'O' level French might<br />
need brushing up: language does change<br />
over the years, and what you learned at<br />
school is not necessarily the French you<br />
need today.<br />
Many of the French will speak a little<br />
English, and shop staff often go out of their<br />
way to help foreigners. The local tax office<br />
might even have someone who speaks<br />
English to help you 'arrange your affairs',<br />
and the EDF electricity board have an<br />
English-speaking helpline. However, this<br />
isn't enough to make you truly happy in your<br />
new environment. You must mix with French<br />
people whenever you can. Perhaps you can<br />
join the 'Comité des Fêtes' in your village.<br />
Help out in your community as often as<br />
possible; it will be noted and appreciated –<br />
and your French will improve enormously.<br />
CULTURE<br />
The culture in France is subtly different to<br />
UK culture. The French have a different way<br />
of doing things: they think differently and<br />
have different values; they prioritise<br />
differently and live quite differently. For<br />
example, you have to get used to the long<br />
lunch hours, when banks and shops close.
The Cost of living and<br />
every day life<br />
Many expats fail to realise that they must<br />
still deal with the everyday chores, hassles<br />
and problems life brings anywhere.<br />
You may wonder how much everyday life is<br />
going to cost. This depends: what may<br />
seem a perfectly reasonable standard of<br />
living for one person could be inconceivable<br />
to another. Talk to people who live<br />
in your target area to get an idea of their<br />
monthly outgoings. Ask your estate agent<br />
for details of rates, but don't forget to<br />
account for electricity, heating, telephone<br />
and food costs.<br />
Many people use wood-burning stoves for<br />
heating. In autumn, your woodsman will<br />
arrive on his tractor to deliver the cubic<br />
metres of logs you ordered. You then get to<br />
stack them. The delivery can be hilarious:<br />
while the woodsman is being charming to<br />
you, he could well be shouting profanities to<br />
his apprentice as he fails to negotiate<br />
backing into a tight driveway.<br />
Then there is the paperwork: be prepared.<br />
You will amass a dossier of essential<br />
papers. You'll need birth and marriage<br />
certificates and, although current EU law<br />
says this is not required, you may have to<br />
get them officially translated. Keep all your<br />
paperwork to hand and go with the flow.<br />
While administrative red tape might seem<br />
infuriating at times, remember the French<br />
find it infuriating too. As an outsider, you<br />
must adapt to local ways; do not expect<br />
local ways to adapt to you.<br />
Time is measured by the seasons. People<br />
greet each other in the street; they talk<br />
about the mushrooms they found in the<br />
woods. They watch for the cranes to fly over<br />
and discuss the return of summer. I would<br />
not live anywhere else.<br />
See www.leggett-immo.com for thousands<br />
of properties and advice for finding your<br />
dream home in France...
Introducing OFX<br />
Where the world’s moving when<br />
it comes to global payments<br />
With more than 20 years of experience, OFX aims to take the mystery out of foreign<br />
exchange and provide clients with best in class service, competitive rates, market insights<br />
and the right currency strategy to help you plan ahead.<br />
Often people default to their bank for international money transfers, as they simply may not<br />
be aware that there are cheaper and more convenient alternatives. At OFX, every client is<br />
important. They offer a top notch team of global currency specialists available 24/7 – so you<br />
always have an experienced person to talk to, on your time. The OFX team works with<br />
global clients to develop bespoke currency plans, which help manage risk and ultimately<br />
save money.<br />
If you prefer to self-manage your international payments, their award winning, online<br />
platform is convenient, quick and simple to use. The platform guides you through the entire<br />
process, so you’ll know exactly what information you need to provide to ensure your<br />
transfer goes through smoothly. This allows you to do business with OFX via your preferred<br />
channel of choice.<br />
Are there hidden fees?<br />
Whether you’re purchasing an overseas property or perhaps moving savings<br />
internationally, when you exchange currency and transfer it through a bank, you’ll typically<br />
be charged a margin of up to 5% above the daily exchange rate. The banks will often add a<br />
hefty transfer fee as well, which many clients aren’t aware of.<br />
With OFX, you’ll get a quote based on the live exchange rate of the moment and the margin<br />
you’ll be charged is up to 75% less than what the banks charge. Even better, OFX clients<br />
pay no transaction fees*.<br />
Is it difficult to get started?<br />
Getting started with OFX is simple. Once registered, you can start transacting straight<br />
away. If you have any questions, you can simply call their dedicated dealing team for<br />
assistance 24/7. It’s a secure, efficient process. And with their suite of currency products<br />
and services, OFX can help clients manage risk and save money, especially when the<br />
market is unpredictable.<br />
Best of all, it’s absolutely free to get a personal quote and consultation.<br />
For further information you can visit the OFX website here or simply contact our dedicated<br />
partnerships manager Colin Powell on colin.powell@ofx.com or +44 207 614 4153.<br />
*third party bank fees may apply<br />
.
Plan ahead to<br />
avoid a<br />
possibly<br />
taxing time<br />
in France<br />
For those contemplating the purchase of a<br />
second home in France, or a complete<br />
move, the advantages from a tax<br />
perspective may represent fantastic value.<br />
Jennie Poate, Head of Operations, France<br />
for Beacon Global Wealth Management<br />
explains…<br />
There always seem to be horror stories<br />
doing the rounds about tax in France. But if<br />
you're planning to move here as a retiree or<br />
early retiree and already have some (or all)<br />
of your income stream planned, then you<br />
could well be surprised.<br />
For example: if you're married, you are<br />
taxed as a household and will have two taxfree<br />
allowances added together before<br />
income tax becomes payable. This is<br />
certainly handy if, like most people, one of<br />
you has a higher income than the other. All<br />
pensions receive an abatement or<br />
allowance of 10% before tax is payable –<br />
every little helps.<br />
As an individual in the UK you would pay<br />
40% tax above the £43,300 threshold.<br />
Even as an individual in France you wono't<br />
reach this height until above €70,000. So<br />
even higher earners can pay less tax.<br />
The rates for income tax are:<br />
Income<br />
Tax Rate<br />
Up to €9,807 0%<br />
Between €9,807 - €27,086 14%<br />
Between €27,086 - €72,617 30%<br />
Between €72,617 - €153,783 41%<br />
Above €153,783 45%<br />
As an example, suppose two adults have a<br />
joint income of €40,000. Tax liability is<br />
worked out on the basis that each has<br />
€20,000. The first €9807 of each person is<br />
zero rated, tax is charged at 14% on the<br />
remainder.<br />
There are also exemptions, discounts and<br />
reductions available – it can seem like a<br />
highly complex formula when you’re trying to<br />
fill in the paperwork and work out what’s<br />
what. Getting qualified tax advice can save<br />
you money, time and heartache (not to<br />
mention a headache).<br />
Nexus Global is a division within Blacktower Financial Management (International) Limited (BFMI). All<br />
approved individual members of Nexus Global are Appointed Representatives of BFMI. BFMI is licensed and<br />
regulated by the Gibraltar Financial Services Commission and bound by their rules under licence number<br />
FSC00805B. The information in this article is intended as an introduction only and is not designed to offer<br />
solutions or advice. Beacon Global Wealth Management can accept no responsibility whatsoever for losses<br />
incurred by acting on this information.
Planning ahead is always a good idea<br />
You shouldn't just research the area or<br />
house you want to buy; you should also<br />
have a clear idea of how much income you<br />
need to live on in France, and how much of<br />
it will be taxed.<br />
Jennie is happy to answer any queries you<br />
may have. She and her team would be<br />
delighted to help you plan your move to<br />
France and offer a free, no obligation, initial<br />
consultation in order to discuss your<br />
requirements.<br />
You also want to make sure that any<br />
savings you have are taxed as little as<br />
possible. The start of this planning from a<br />
financial point of view should begin before<br />
you move to France.<br />
Using a financial adviser with in-depth<br />
knowledge of both the UK and French<br />
systems from a tax, pension and investment<br />
point of view could save you money as well<br />
as a big tax bill later on.<br />
Although there is a lot of information on the<br />
Internet about taxes in France. It’s often<br />
outdated at best and at worst downright<br />
wrong. Having something bespoke and<br />
tailored to your needs and wishes will ease<br />
your financial transition into your new life.<br />
Jennie can be contacted at:<br />
jennie@bgwealthmanagement.net<br />
www.beaconglobalwealth.com for<br />
information
In the French Kitchen with Kids: Easy, Everyday Dishes for th<br />
Mardi Michels.<br />
From the prolific blogger behind eat. live. travel. write comes<br />
and Francophiles of all ages. Forget the fuss and bring simpl<br />
kitchen with Mardi Michels as your guide. In her first book, M<br />
have to be complicated. The result is an elegant, approachab<br />
for young chefs and their families. From savory dishes like O<br />
Frites to sweet treats like Profiteroles, Madeleines or Crème<br />
classics here. With helpful timetables to plan out baking pro<br />
involved in cooking, this book breaks down any preconceive<br />
or too difficult for kids to master. With Mardi's warm, empow<br />
of all ages will be begging to help out in the kitchen every da
Financiers<br />
Financiers are an excellent handheld after-school snack. Essentially a tea cake<br />
made with a touch of almond meal, these are a little more substantial than<br />
madeleines. They come in various shapes, including rectangles and ovals, and here<br />
we’re using a mini muffin pan because they’re easy to find and many people have<br />
them in the kitchen already.<br />
Makes 24 cakes<br />
Prep time: 15 minutes<br />
Bake time: 10 to 12 minutes<br />
INGREDIENTS<br />
Unsalted butter, for greasing the pan<br />
1/2 cup (113 g) unsalted butter 4 large<br />
egg whites<br />
3/4 cup (150 g) granulated sugar<br />
1/2 cup (50 g) almond meal<br />
1/3 cup (50 g) all-purpose flour<br />
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt Icing sugar,<br />
for sprinkling<br />
Option: Raspberry financiers.<br />
Just before you bake the financiers, cut<br />
12 raspberries in half and place one<br />
half, cut side down, on top of each<br />
financier. Press down gently.<br />
e Whole Family to Make and Enjoy by<br />
a new cookbook for parents, children<br />
e, delicious French dishes to your home<br />
ardi shows that French food doesn't<br />
le cookbook featuring recipes tailored<br />
melettes, Croque-Monsieurs or Steak<br />
Brûlée, readers will find many French<br />
jects, and tips on how to get kids<br />
d notion that French cuisine is too fancy<br />
ering and encouraging instructions, kids<br />
y of the week.<br />
1. Preheat the oven to 400˚F (200˚C). If you are<br />
using a nonstick mini muffin pan you may not need<br />
to butter them, but otherwise generously butter the<br />
cups of the pan.<br />
2. Melt the butter either in a small pot on the<br />
stovetop over medium heat or in a microwave-safe<br />
bowl in the microwave for about 1 minute. Set<br />
aside to cool.<br />
3. Beat the egg whites until frothy with handheld<br />
electric beaters on high speed, 1 to 2 minutes.<br />
4. In a separate bowl, whisk together the sugar,<br />
almond meal, flour and salt.<br />
5. Add the dry ingredients to the wet and fold them<br />
in gently with a rubber spatula until just combined.<br />
6. Add the cooled, melted butter to the batter and<br />
use a rubber spatula to gently mix until the butter is<br />
completely incorporated.<br />
7. Divide the batter between the cups of the muffin<br />
pan. You can do this with a 11/2-tablespoon cookie<br />
scoop or a small spoon. Fill each cup almost to the<br />
top.<br />
8. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the center is<br />
slightly puffed and the edges are golden and<br />
slightly crispy and coming away from the pan.<br />
There may be cracks in the tops. That’s totally<br />
okay!<br />
9. Remove the financiers from the muffin pan<br />
immediately and allow to cool on wire racks.<br />
10. Once they have cooled completely, sprinkle<br />
them with icing sugar to serve. These are best<br />
eaten the day they are made, although they can<br />
keep for a couple of days in an airtight container at<br />
room temperature.<br />
Pre order Mardi's fabulous cook book at: Eat.<br />
Live. Travel.Write
<strong>No</strong>nnettes
When the urge to get into the kitchen and make something sweet hits Paola Westbeek,<br />
nonnettes are a favourite. They're a specialty of Dijon in Burgundy. The name means<br />
‘little nuns’ and the cakes find their origins in the Middle Ages...
Orange <strong>No</strong>nettes with Grand Marnier<br />
Makes 12<br />
Ingredients:<br />
150ml water<br />
80g butter<br />
200ml honey<br />
50g light brown sugar<br />
1 tbsp pain d’épices spices<br />
2 tbsps Grand Marnier<br />
<strong>18</strong>0g whole wheat flour<br />
100g all-purpose flour<br />
1 tbsp baking powder<br />
Zest of 1 organic orange<br />
6 tsps marmalade<br />
3 tbsps freshly squeezed orange juice<br />
80g icing sugar<br />
Paola Westbeek is a food,<br />
wine and travel journalist.<br />
For more of her recipes,<br />
visit ladoucevie.eu,<br />
thefrenchlife.org and her<br />
YouTube channel,<br />
LaDouceVieFood<br />
Instructions<br />
Heat water, butter, honey and sugar, just until butter is melted. Remove from the heat and<br />
stir in the spices and Grand Marnier.<br />
In a large bowl whisk the flours and baking powder.<br />
Add the orange zest and stir to combine. Pour in the syrup (it should still be fairly hot). Stir<br />
until combined.<br />
Flour and butter a 12-hole muffin tin. Divide the batter over the holes.<br />
Chill for half an hour.<br />
Preheat the oven to 200°C.<br />
Using a teaspoon, make a little well in the centre of the batter and fill with half a tsp of<br />
marmalade.<br />
Bake the nonnettes for 20 minutes. The nonnettes should be tender and spring back when<br />
pressed.<br />
Allow to cool completely before unmoulding. Place the nonnettes on a rack, making sure<br />
there is a sheet of tin foil underneath it.<br />
Make a thin glaze by whisking the orange juice into the icing sugar. Drizzle over the<br />
nonnettes and leave to set.
My Good Life in France<br />
Sometimes I get France. And sometimes I don’t. Take the law for<br />
instance.<br />
In my local café in which the locals gather to gossip, a recent topic of<br />
debate was about the misfortunes of a baker who owns a boulangerie<br />
near Troyes in the Champagne region. He decided to open his<br />
boulangerie 7 days a week in the summer of 2017 in order to serve the<br />
needs of the many tourists who flocked to the area. All well and good<br />
you might think, but non. Someone, who is not owning up to it, reported<br />
him for contravening a local decree that prevents anyone working 7 days<br />
a week, even if it is their own business and they choose to do so. The<br />
labour union that was tasked with enforcing the law was apparently<br />
reluctant to do so, especially as the baker was supported by the local<br />
Mayor and residents. They asked other local business owners if they<br />
agreed that the baker should be fined. Astoundingly, the result was yes,<br />
and the baker was fined €3000. So far, he has refused to cough up.<br />
You might think that strange enough but there’s more. I have a plastic<br />
pig in my garden, don’t ask, I don’t know why I bought it but plastic<br />
animals are popular in my part of France, so it doesn’t look as odd as<br />
you might think! I told Annie the café owner, about my plastic cochon<br />
and said I was going to call it Napoleon. “Ah non” she said, “You can’t do<br />
that, it’s against the law”. And, it’s true. It’s illegal to call a pig Napoleon<br />
in France, maybe even a plastic one.<br />
There are plenty of strange laws in France I’ve since discovered. Did you<br />
know for instance it’s illegal to kiss at a train station in France? Or that<br />
there is a centuries old law that requires all French citizens keep a<br />
haystack handy, in case the King passes by and needs hay for his horse.<br />
Stranger still, it is legal in France to marry a dead person with the<br />
permission of the President and if you have a good reason to do so.<br />
I still have much to learn about France it seems and some of it is very<br />
strange!<br />
Bisous, bisous<br />
Janine