Issue No. 16

Bonjour and welcome to the autumn issue of The Good Life France Magazine. It's a
lovely time of the year in France, mellow sunshine, spectacular sunsets, a feeling of joie
de vivre as France goes through the unique experience known as la rentrée in
September, the return to normality, to work and school after the long holidays.
In this issue we start two new series: Le Weekend - a look at fabulous weekend
destinations and the best things to do in a short visit. We start with stunning Isle-surla-Sorgue
in Provence, the antiques capital of France. The second series is Du pain, Du
vin, Du train: where to go by train from Paris. Many people visit the city and never see
the rest of France. Paris is of course brilliant, but you can take a day trip by train and
get a totally different experience of France.
Discover Gascony with our insider’s guide, this sunny part of France is authentic and
truly beautiful. Visit five stunning chateaux in the Loire, and meet a legendary florist at
the Chateau de Chenonceau.
Take a look at magnificent Montpellier, Paris in the autumn, Grignan, a tiny town in
Provence that has a Versailles-style chateau and Toulouse. Ever fancied staying in a
mountain refuge in the mountains? Rread what it’s like plus, find out what happens
when you go skiing with your dogs in France! We meet a man with a passion for
cheese who discovered his long-lost cheese love in the Auvergne and share the tale of
an American who has Paris in her soul in a brilliant short memoire.
Competitions, Your Photos, practical guides, Ask the Experts, expat stories and lush
recipes – yep this a bumper, brilliant issue!
Please share it with your friends if you like it – it’s totally free, forever!
with best wishes,
Bisous from France
Janine
Editor

Peter Jones is our regular columnist. A writer and
photographer, he lives in Oxfordshire, UK and is a
freelance writer for newspapers and magazines.
www.jonesphotos.co.uk
Rupert Parker is writer, photographer, cameraman &
TV Producer. His articles appear in national
newspapers, magazines. Read about his latest
adventures on his website Planet Appetite & follow
him on Twitter @planetappetite.
Lucy Pitts is a freelance writer and Deputy Editor of
The Good Life France Magazine. She divides her time
between the UK and France where she has a home
in the the Vendée area, known as the Green Venice
of France. www.stroodcopy.com
Michael Cranmer is an award-winning freelance travel
writer and photographer. He spends most of the
winter up mountains writing about, his primary
passion - skiing – but also manages to sample less
strenuous outings.
Colette O'Connor is a writer from California. Her
stories have appeared in numerous dailies &
magazines. She teaches writing at California State
University, but keeps a bag ever packed for Paris, and
tries to hold on to all the oh-la-la of it she loves.
Editor: Janine Marsh contact editor (at) the goodlifefrance.com
Deputy Editor: Lucy Pitts
Assistant: Sandra Davis
Advertising: sales (at) thegoodlifefrance.com
Digital support: Umbrella Web Solutions
Artistic support: Kumiko at KumikoChesworth.myportfolio.com
Front Cover: Wazim Photos

contents
p.56
p. 8
p. 48
Features
p. 32
8 Lure of the Loire
Janine Marsh visits 5 magnificent chateaux
and has a floristry lesson with a legend.
32 Insider’s Guide to
Gascony
Local, Sue Aran reveals the beauty of the
sunny, southern region.
40 Spotlight: Montpellier
Janine Marsh visits the vibant sunny town
and falls in love with its many faces.
48 Le Weekend...in provence
You’ll fall head over heels for pretry Islesur-la-Sorgue,
antiques capital of France.
54 Du Pain, Du Vin, Du Train…
What to do in one day in Lyon, the
gastronomic capital of France.
56 Paris in the autumn
Festivals, museums, walks in the parks -
ten reasons to take a trip in the fall.

P. 60
p. 86
Features continued
p. 68
60 Grignan, the noble town
of Provence
Lucy Pitts heads to the wild countryside of
Provence and discovers a mini Versailles
chateau.
64 The long lost love
cheese of the Auvergne
Michael Cranmer turns Sherlock Holmes in
search of a long lost cheese love.
68 Discover Toulouse
Peter Jones visits the pink city and is
bowled over by its vibrant beauty.
72 Hiking in France’s biggest
National Park – Ecrins
Rupert Parker takes a break in a high
mountain refuge.
76 Skiing with your dogs!
Lucy Pitts takes the kids, her enormous
dogs and long-suffering husband skiing in
the French Alps.
86 The Making of My Maman
We’re delighted to bring you this wonderful
memoir from author Colette O’Connor.
Regular
82 Your Photos
The most popular photos shared by our
lovely readers on Facebook page.
84 Three fab give aways
116 My Good Life in France

P. 82
Expats
90 Buying French Property
Advice to help you prepare thoroughly
when you search for your dream home.
92 I Spy with my Expat Eye
Emily Commander takes a humorous look
at life in France.
94 The Good Life in the Tarn
Meet the friends who've opened a cycling
business in this lovely part of France.
100 The Good Life in
Dordogne
How many of us sit in a pub or a bar and
plan a new life in France? This couple did
and they’re making the dream come true.
104 Ask the Experts
Financial expert Jennie Poate answers your
money questions.
Gastronomy
106 Secrets of Bouillabaise
Author Keith Van Sickle finds out how to
make real bouilabaise and how the famous
fish dish got its name.
108 Tarte au Fraises
Chef and TV presenter Cecile Delarue
shares her strawberry and cream pie
recipe – it’s so YUM!
110 Life Altering Parmesan
Cheese Soup
Barbara Pasquet-James falls head over
heels for a bowl of soup and persuades the
chef to share the recipe with all of us!
112 Gruyère Pamesan
Gougères
Moreish gougeres are easy to make with
Sara Neumeier’s fabulous recipe.

The Lure of the Loire
Janine Marsh falls under the spell of the Loire Valley and its magnificent chateaux…
The Loire Valley is the largest listed UNESCO World Heritage site in the world –
recognised for its architectural heritage, historic towns and world-famous castles.
Covering 800 km sq. the area has more than 1000 chateaux and several nicknames
“The Valley of the Kings” and “the Garden of France” among them.
There are medieval villages with cobble stone streets, topsy turvy houses, grand
cathedrals and buildings that are pickled in the past. Vine covered hills and lush green
valleys make this one of the most picturesque regions in France.
With seemingly a chateau on every corner in the Loire and when you visit this
marvellous area, it’s hard to know just what to focus on.
We take a look at five downright gorgeous castles, legendary places of art and culture
toi this day. Follow in the footsteps of Kings and Queens, legendary artists and
fascinating personalities and feel the past in the present…
Chenonceau – du Clos Lucé – Chambord – Blois – Chaumont-sur-Loire

Photo: IheartFrance
Discover the history and beauty of the “chateau des dames” and go
backstage with the gardener and florist who bring the castle to life with
flowers...
Everyone who visits the Chateau de
Chenonceau in the Loire Valley comes
away with a memory of the exquisite
gardens, the impossibly romantic white
stone castle over a river with its pointy
towers and arched bridge - and especially
of the flower displays in every room…
Jean-François Bouchet is the florist
extraordinaire who creates and directs the
floral displays at the castle and for some,
he is the main reason to visit the chateau.
When I visited and had a lesson on flower
displays with him (I know, I know – how
lucky am I?) we went around the chateau
afterwards to see how it looks when it’s
done by a master. Groups of ladies
gathered round him cooing and praising
and I’m not surprised, he’s thoroughly
charming and anyone who can make
flowers look like he does, deserves such
devotion.
A bit about the Chateau de
Chenonceau
Francis I, the renaissance King of France,
took ownership of the Chateau of
Chenonceau in the 16th century. Later it
was run by Diane de Poitiers who received
it as a gift from her lover Henry II, the son of
Francis I. She commissioned the famous
bridge over the river Cher so that she could
cross to the other side to hunt.

Photo: Brad Mushrush
It’s said that she would sneak through the
basement kitchens each morning to bathe
in the icy waters of the river to keep her
complexion bright. When her lover died,
Diane lost the chateau to his wife
Catherine de Medici, and was sent to live in
neighbouring chateau Chaumont-sur-Loire.
Catherine built the enclosed gallery on the
bridge that makes it look so unique and
she also developed the gardens.
Chenonceau later passed into private
ownership and is today owned by the
famous French chocolate making family
Menier. Madame Menier adores the flower
displays and often has a hand in choosing
the colours and blooms.
Both ladies adored the chateau and were
famed for their lavish parties in the castle’s
beautiful grounds. In fact, the feminine
touch that’s seen the chateau owned and
developed by a succession of lady owners,
is how it got its nickname ‘Chateau des
Dames’ or ‘The Ladies’ Castle’.

The Flower master of the
Chateau de Chenonceau
Jean-François Boucher is a Master
Craftsman of France, European Junior
Champion of Floristry, French Vice
Champion of floristry and a truly amazing
floral designer whose creations fill every
room in the chateau and who has a legion
of fans worldwide (you can find him here on
Instagram).
Headhunted to do this job, the young florist
gave up his thriving flower store in nearby
Tours to take it.
He is passionate about flowers and the
history of the chateau, and together with
his team of two, creates around 200
bouquets per week, every week of the year.
Some are small, some are enormous.
The displays may be flowers or a mix of
flowers and vegetables, sometimes with a
nod to the past.
“Did you know Catherine de Medici
introduced the artichoke to France?” he
asks. “Because it was believed to be an
aphrodisiac and she thought it might help
her win her husband back from her rival, his
mistress Diane”.
Floral Lesson
Some days you think your fairy godmother
has listened to you and when I was asked if
I’d like to see inside Jean-François
Boucher’s atelier where he creates his
masterpieces I was over the moon. When I
was offered the chance to create my very
own bouquet under his watchful eye, I was
over the moon and the sun.
It’s a surprisingly tiny room. And, as you’d
expect it is filled to the rafters with cut
flowers. Jean-François gave me a small pot
filled with gardeners’ foam and instructed
me to do whatever felt right. I put roses in
and peonies, pinks and whites, a bit of
green. “Not bad” he said kindly then told
me you should never be able to see the
foam so “carry on, put more in”. I spent one
of the most creative half hours of my life
there and afterwards took my display home
with me. On the train to Paris I carried it
carefully and I am pretty sure everyone was
admiring it, and then on to my home where
I left it on display until it was well and truly
over. But, I still have the pot – my very own
bit of Chenonceau.
(See end of article for details of how to book a
lesson with Jean-François).

Above: in the atelier; left:
making up a bouquet; below
with one of his stunning
arrangements in the chateau

The gardener at the Chateau
de Chenonceau
Of course, all those flowers and fruits used
in the spectacular displays have to be
grown and that takes place in the stunning
gardens overseen by American gardener
Nicholas Tomlan. He came to France to
take this job from Longwood Gardens,
Pennsylvania - named the best botanical
Gardens in America by USA Today. He’s
now the brilliant botanical director at the
chateau.
“In the old days, they’d grow root
vegetables here” says this affable gardener
“no flowers”. Looking around at the formal
beds with a mix of vegetables and flower
and roses spilling over walls in what is now
the walled vegetable garden I can’t imagine
it any other way. But, it wasn’t until the
Renaissance days that flowers were grown
simply to look good and to decorate the
interior. Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de
Medici both loved flower displays in the
chateau. Records tell us that some of them
were “monumental” taller than a man,
flamboyant, colourful and showy.
“Nowadays it’s a mix of flowers and veg for
the displays and also for the restaurant”
says Nicolas as he stoops to pick some
lettuce to put in his basket for the chef.
“The queen would have never visited the
vegetable gardens, but the flower
gardens – absolutely”.
I’m sure she would have approved of
Nicholas’ work and would recognise the
style. These gardens were recreated using
drawings from the late 1500s. There are
gorgeous giant wicker bird cages in which
flowers grow, wild flower meadows, formal
parterre gardens and the most beautiful
arrangement of colour and blooms. The
seven gardeners here grow more than
130,000 plants each year and the gardens
are as important a place to wander and
admire as the chateau itself.

Above: gardening in the rain;
below left: Nicholas and Jean-
Francois discuss the flowers;
below: the vegetable garden

“Do you ever feel anything ghostly here” I
asked him. “Not really” he says, then adds
“We do have a small greenhouse that has a
double lock and we only ever turn the key
once. But, every week, on at least one
occasion, the greenhouse has been
double-locked, and we’ve never been able
to explain it”. The ghost of the gardens
perhaps, I suggest. Would it be Diane or
Catherine I wonder and decide Catherine,
she was a very determined woman after all.
Diane’s Garden, as it's called, is on the
right-hand side of the chateau. Catherine’s
garden is on the left-hand side. Clearly their
rivalry wasn’t just contained to Henry.
There is also a maze commissioned by
Catherine and a grand Green Garden with
tall trees in which sits the historic
Orangery. In the 16th century this part of
the estate is where the animals and
Catherine’s aviary were kept.
Nowadays the orangery is L’Orangerie
restaurant and it is fabulous – both for the
food and the interior. You’ll certainly enjoy
Nicholas’ handiwork here, every dish
seems to be adorned with fruit or leaves
and it’s so beautiful you feel bad breaking
up the artwork! The cheese cloche which is
wheeled around for diners to pick what
they fancy is a masterpiece. Don’t be fooled
into thinking that it’s all just good looks, it’s
not. The chef makes amazing dishes, the
pastries are created by a master and the
cheese is chosen by a legendary affineur
(someone who matures cheese until
perfection – a very French thing).
Every table is decorated with a bouquet
made by Jean-Francois and his team. I have
to tell you – I’d go back just for the
restaurant!
The interior
The chateau is gorgeous inside. There are
tapestries, paintings and exquisite
furniture. The kitchen looks as though a
chef of medieval times has nipped out for
some more vegetables and will be back at
any moment to prepare a feast. But the
flowers are truly the star of the show.

Above left: Amboise; above centre
and right: Dessert and cheese
platter at l'Orangerie; left:
Catherine de Medici's motif
Look carefully and you may notice that the
royal insignia of Catherine de Medici at the
chateau is rather familiar. When fashion
icon Coco Chanel visited she loved the
intertwined Cs topped by a royal crown and
asked if she could use it as her own motif.
She was told yes, but not with the crown –
and the rest as they say, is history.
Practical info
Website for the Chateau de Chenonceau:
www.chenonceau.com
Botanical tour with Nicholas Tomlan and
floral workshop with Jean-François
Boucher is exclusively for small groups, by
reservation only: events@chenonceau.com
L’Orangerie restaurant can only be
accessed once you’re inside the chateau
grounds. You can book in advance at:
restaurants@chenonceau.com
Where to stay
Nearby Amboise makes for a perfect base
to visit the Chateau de Chenonceau, it’s
about 20 minutes by car. I stayed at the
lovely Hotel Bellevue which has a great
little restaurant and fabulous bar and is a
stone’s throw from the incredible Chateau
d’Amboise in the centre of this historic
town.
If you do stay in Amboise, don’t miss out on
a meal at the nearby Le Parvis restaurant (3
rue Mirabeau) where the appetite you’ll
build up walking around will be well
satisfied!
How to get there
Trains from Paris run to Amboise, nearby
Tours and to Chenonceaux station which is
right by the chateau (making for a great day
trip): UK-Voyages-SNCF.

Amboise in the Loire is dominated by a
grand chateau, its turrets reaching high
into the sky and windows giving
impressive views over the ancient town
and the surrounding Loire Valley
countryside.
A few minutes’ walk away is a much
smaller chateau, far less grand. It was the
home of a man who changed the world
with his art and his designs – the great
renaissance man, Leonardo da Vinci.
The Chateau du Clos Lucé where Leonardo
lived, has been wonderfully restored to look
as it did when he arrived in 1516 at the
invitation of King Francis I of France.
Leonardo found himself down on his luck,
without commissions and struggling to
keep going in Italy. Francis I offered him his
dream job: "First Painter, Engineer and
Architect to the King" plus a home for life.
Leonardo was a nomad, he had no home to
call his own and moved from town to city –
wherever the work was. He wasn’t rich, and
jumped at the offer from the French King,
making his way from Italy to France on a
donkey. Among the belongings he took
with him were his precious manuscripts,
and an almost finished painting of a
woman he called La Giaconda or Mona
Lisa. It was to become one of the most
famous paintings of all time.
Francis I had never met Leonardo but his
mother Louise de Savoie had seen the
artist’s work and loved it. The King offered
Leonardo the chance to practice his skills
as he wished, quite an innovative prospect
at the time when a painter was a painter
and an engineer was an engineer.
Leonardo’s genius extended to several
areas and the opportunity to do as he
wished was irresistible.

The Chateau rooms
Leonardo moved into the Chateau du Clos
Lucé and here he stayed until his death on
2 May 1519. The rooms have been restored
with the help of specialist historians and
it’s easy to imagine Leonardo in his long
gown moving through the castle.
On the 4-poster bed in what was
Leonardo’s room where he died of old age,
Minette the castle cat is fast asleep most
days (above). She is oblivious to the
cameras that click, capturing her utter
dismissiveness of the visitors who are lost
in contemplation that here, 400 years ago,
Leonardo snored through the night,
dreaming his dreams and planning his
projects.
Leonardo liked cats and it’s fitting that the
pampered puss has taken up residence in
his former home.

This bijou chateau (at least by the
standards of Amboise) is light and airy –
perfect for an artist. The rooms are not
enormous but big enough for a large
canvas and to spread out the components
for an engineering project.
In one room, there are paintings in progress
and a desk which looks as though the
great man is still at work but popped out for
a break. His cabinet of curiosities is very
curious and somewhat macabre but you
don’t get to draw the insides of bodies of
humans and animals by looking at the
outside so it’s not a surprise to discover
such bits and pieces. He was an
accomplished musician, wrote poetry, was
an architect, botanist, engineer and had
many more skills.
His note books record the minutiae of his
day from what he worked on to the fact
that his cook was calling him to come and
have lunch. Historians can tell the type of
paper he used was French after he arrived
so they’ve been able to date what he
worked on at the chateau. One of the great
projects Francis commissioned was to
design a chateau that in itself was like a
city (150 years later Louis XIV’s Versailles
was to follow this route).
It’s quite astounding to know that he
worked on the Mona Lisa in this room.
The Mona Lisa
Francis I bought the Mona Lisa painting
and adored it. He took it with him to
another of his chateaux – Fontainebleau
where he hung it in his bathroom. It seems
strange to us but in those days bathrooms
were thought to be creative spaces!
If you’ve ever seen the painting in the
Louvre, you might well wonder just what is
it that makes her so very famous.
According to Irina Metzl, the communications
manager at the chateau, there are a

number of reasons not least of all the
painting being stolen.
In 1911 an Italian workman employed at the
Louvre spent the night hiding in a
cupboard, slipped the painting out of its
frame and took off with it. At that time, the
painting wasn’t well-known and the only
way to see it was by going to the museum.
The police printed 6,500 copies of the
Mona Lisa and distributed them to the
public. Every newspaper covered the story.
Millions of people saw the painting and
had an opinion. The Mona Lisa became the
Kim Kardashian of her day – everyone
knew who she was. The painting was
eventually found, just down the road in
what is now the Hotel La Giaconda. She,
with her enigmatic smile, missing
eyebrows, showing the special trademark
technique Leonardo used called sfumato
where you can’t see how the smile ends at
each corner and the veil of craquelure, tiny
age cracks in the paint now resides in
majestic glory in the Louvre. Personally, I
liked to see the reproduction on the wall at
the Chateau du Clos Lucé where her maker
finished creating her.
Leonardo da Vinci passed away three years
after he arrived in France and was buried,
following his wishes, within the royal
château. His tomb can be found in Saint-
Hubert’s Chapel.

“I believe that great happiness
awaits those men who are born
where good wines are to be found”
Leonardo da Vinci
The Leonardo da Vinci Park
Visit the Chateau du Clos Lucé late Spring
through Summer and you'll be able to
admire vibrant scarlet Mona Lisa Roses,
planted in huge swathes in the terrace
garden. The park is magnificent for the
innovative way in which Leonardo’s
artwork is depicted. Some of his famous
creations have been bought to life, you can
sit in a wooden tank made to scale, climb
aboard a boat, cross a bridge, turn a giant
cork screw and more. It brings to life in a
unique way the works of the man known as
the “Florentine Genius”. The trees are hung
with huge translucent representations of
his paintings and sayings – it’s rather
romantic, certainly ethereal and beautifully
done.
Wine tasting in Leonardo’s
Caves
Chenin Blanc is the “royal grape” says the
wine expert in Leonardo’s Caves. And yes,
this is the very passage that linked the
Chateau du Close Lucé to the Chateau
d’Amboise where King Francis I lived. It’s a
strange feeling to know that one of the
greatest artists and thinkers of all time
used to scurry along here, holding a candle
to light the way to his meetings with his
patron who also used this under-ground
walkway to go to see the man he called “my
father”.
You descend via one of the exhibition
rooms in the chateau. With candles lighting
the cave I sipped the wine almost in
reverence though not as much as our wine
guru who tells us his thinks of “wine as
people”. The pensioners he says, go back to
1874 – he doesn’t offer us a glass. “This is a
young adult” he advises pouring a glass of
local red. “This is a baby” he says of a fresh,
fruity white. Monsieur le wine expert speaks
excellent English, has a great sense of
humour and the most delicious wines. It is
without a doubt an incredible way to
connect with the past, to stand in the
footsteps of the great King and the great
artist, and a unique wine tasting.
Book at: www.caves-duhard.fr/en

Dining at the chateau
Take a break at the rather lovely terrace
garden café. Don’t miss the shop with its
gorgeous gifts and Leonardo models in the
courtyard of the chateau.
There’s also a pretty restaurant in the park
alongside the river where you can enjoy
snacks, drinks and meals.
If, however you are in a group – don’t miss
the chance of a medieval feast in the
grounds of the chateau at the Auberge du
Prieuré. The serving staff dress up in
costumes of the middle ages, the food is
from ancient menus. The atmosphere is
great fun and educational as the food and
customs of the times are explained. For
instance, did you know the French word
copain which means friend/mate comes
from the term to break bread (pain) before
prayers?
Practical information
The Chateau du Clos Lucé is open
year-round (except 25 December and
1 January). See the website for details:
www.vinci-closluce.com
Trains from Paris to Amboise take 2
hours. There is a year-round bus
service from the station to the town
centre. UKVoyages-SNCF
Leave time to visit Amboise town, it’s
beautifully preserved and well worth a
wander and of course there’s also the
Chateau d’Amboise to visit too!
www.amboise-valdeloire.co.uk
www.valdeloirefrance.co.uk
uk.france.fr

Photo: Geraldine Baker
Chateau of Chaumont-sur-
Loire hive of fun and frivolity.
This is a stunningly pretty chateau which is
unique for its presentation of art and the
international garden festival that’s held
here annually.
It was bought in 1550 by Catherine de
Medici who ceded it to her husband’s
former mistress Diane de Poitiers. When
Henry II died, Catherine evicted Diane from
the Chateau de Chenonceau where Henry
had installed her.
Chaumont Chateau was sold and changed
hands in ensuing centuries before being
bought by an orphaned 17-year-old sugar
heiress called Marie Say in 1875. When she
married Prince Henri-Amédée de Broglie
three months later, the pair restored and
modernised the chateau and landscaped
the gardens. They held festivals and shows,
and hired the Ballets de l'Opéra de Paris
and the troupe of the Comedie-Francaise
from Paris for entertainment . It cost a
fortune, but then the young woman was
one of the richest women in France. An
elephant roamed the grounds, a gift from
the Shah of Persia and the castle was a
Nowadays the castle is owned by the
region and is open to the public. Inside the
chateau there is an annual art exhibition.
The rooms are furnished and homely, they
make you feel that the eccentric Marie
might be out in the garden picking flowers.
It’s a bit like Chelsea Flower Show meets
Kew Gardens. There are temporary show
gardens for the festival and all year-round
gardens for general visits.
And what happened to Marie? When her
beloved Prince died, she re-married. At 72
years old, her new husband was 43 and
keen to help her spend her fortune. She
was compelled to sell much of her art and
property and ended her days in Paris
staying at the Ritz and the George V hotels.
The International Garden Festival takes
place from April to November each year.
www.domaine-chaumont.fr

Above: ethereal exhibit in the
chateau's chapel; below left the
perfume garden; below the chateau
sitting room

Photo: @Toinou1375
Chateau du Chambord
Chateau de Chambord
The Chateaux in the Loire that belonged to
the royals were essentially second homes
in some of the best hunting grounds in
France. They were visual symbols of power
and wealth. On the whole, owners visited
them infrequently, taking their possessions
with them. Unlike today when second
home owners furnish their properties, in
those days people carried their belonging
from home to home. Beds, chairs, cutlery,
dishes, tapestries etc were expensive and
even the royal family rarely decked out
their chateaux with permanent collections.
Take the Chateau de Chambord which was
built by Francis 1, the flamboyant King of
France in 1519. The chateau was said to be
inspired by Leonardo da Vinci (who died
that year). It was one of the wonders of its
time, making other royal families in Europe
jealous. Immense, architecturally stunning
with that double helix staircase. It cost a
fortune. And yet Francis spent only 60 days
there in total.
The chateau has 400 fires and on chilly
days some are lit. It's lovely to see the

embers glowing and the rooms scented
with the smell of a wood fire, just as they
would have been when it was inhabited.
Climb the stairs to the roof top and look out
over the extraordinary newly renovated
gardens. A donation of 3.5m euros from an
American benefactor has transformed the
vast area in front of the chateau.
Don't miss a trip to the shops, restaurants,
maison des vins and the lovely biscuiterie
in the tiny town like estate at the foot of the
chateau. I had to be dragged out of the
biscuit shop and away from the delish
cherry fancies! Here you can do a free wine
tasting and buy Chambord, a sweet French
liqueur that's very more-ish. Made from
honey, vanilla and raspberries, drink it neat,
with white wine or Champagne or even
splashed over ice cream. It's notoriously
difficult to get hold of overseas and even in
France - this really is an exclusive sip.
www.chambord.org
www.biscuiteriedechambord
Stay at: La Maison d’a Cote
it’s a gorgeous,
boutique hotel
and the chef/
owner Christophe
Hay makes the
most delectable
dishes ever, the
chocolate
mousse is
something you
will never forget!

Chateau de Blois
Not far away from Chambord you'll find the
chateau de Blois. Again, it's not massively
furnished though there are some wonderful
and quirky pieces. But architecturally, it's
absolutely stunning
Buildings from the 13th to 17th centuries are
before you and the markers of time are
clear. When the early Counts of Blois laid
the stones for their fort-like palace, Blois
was not then a part of the French Kingdom.
Head out the courtyard towards the river
and you'll see a stone tower, the oldest part
of Blois with views over the river.
Walk into the big inner courtyard and
you're surrounded by history. The truly
outstanding stair case is what most people
remember above all else.
Blois was home to several kings and
queens of France including Francis I. It was
his first building project when he became
King in 1515. He lived here with his first wife
Claude who was said to be boss-eyed,
stooped and overweight. The poor girl gave
birth to 7 children in 7 years and died aged
25 - it certainly wasn't all fun being a queen
in those days. Catherine de Medici, who
was married to Francis I son, Henry II, also
died here.
You can feel the history in the chateau, in
those thick stone walls and beamed
ceilings, in the tiled floors and secret rooms
with their wood panelling and paintings.
One of the strangest portraits is of a hairyfaced
girl, Tognina Gonsalvus, a victim of
hypertrichosis ("werewolf syndrome"). She
was kept at the court of Henry II as a
curiosity but I like to think the painting
shows there was some fondness there.
Skulduggery, murder, drama and romance
took place in bucket loads at this chateau –
the audio guided tour explains all.
From April to September, every evening as
the sun sets, a Son et Lumière show takes
place in the courtyard bringing the tale of
the ancient castle to life – it’s terrific.
en.chateaudeblois.fr

Practical information
www.valdeloire-france.co.uk
uk.france.fr
If you're arriving by train, the chateau
is a 500m walk from Blois-
Chambord train station.

Insider's Guide to G

ascony
Sue Aran reveals the beauty of the
sunny, southern region

Long ignored by mass tourism, this tranquil region is fast becoming France's
hot new destination says Sue Aran who lives in the Gers where she runs
French Country Adventures guided tours of Gascony…
Where is Gascony?
The area of Gascony is bordered on the
west by the Atlantic Ocean, the south by
the Pyrénées mountains, the east by
Toulouse and the north by the vineyards of
Bordeaux. It’s a region that’s sprinkled with
ancient Roman ruins and humble bastides
and it remains as historically rich as it was
in medieval times.
Unchanged since the 1950s by industry,
tourism or major highways, its landscape
has remained agricultural for centuries.
Soft white clouds languish in deep blue
skies above fields of bright yellow
sunflowers, sun-kissed vineyards that
stretch to the horizon, and velvet green
pastures dotted with gaggles of geese and
cream-coloured cows, Gascony’s appeal is
seductively earthy, full-bodied and lusty,
like its wines. It’s a culinary heartland of
garlic, foie gras, duck confit, and France’s
oldest brandy, Armagnac, and is as
authentically farm-to-table as it gets.
Gascony entered recorded history during
the reign of Julius Caesar as the core
territory of Roman Aquitania. Its fertile soil
was nourished by the rivers descending
from the Pyrénées to the plains below. In
his memoir, Caesar described the
machinations occurring during his nine
years of fighting the Gauls, an alliance of
nine tribes which included the Vascones.
The Vascones defined a confederacy of
non-Romanised tribes who inhabited both
sides of the Pyrénées and shared common
traditions. By the late 6th century several of
their tribes moved north, over the Pyrénées,
and down into the territory they called
Vasconia, which now comprises the seven
departments in southwestern France called

Salies-de-Béarn
Salies-de-Béarn is a heady mixture of the
Spanish and French Basque regions, rich in
local gastronomie de terroir and robust
wines. Salies is a picture-perfect village of
vertiginous, gabled houses overlooking the
Saleys River. Known from the Bronze Age
as the ‘Salt City’ for having an underground
water source seven times saltier than the
ocean, its signature product was lucrative
until the mid-19th century, when
competition from the Languedoc and the
Camargue weakened the salt market
dramatically. Salies then reinvented itself
as a spa village. In addition to the virtues of
its salt, the local water contains more
magnesium than any other natural spring
in the world. Its spa is still in operation,
offering health, beauty and fitness regimes.
Gascony. The remaining portion in Spain
became the Basque Country.
As were their forebears, Gascons today are
known to be independent, brave, hardy,
boastful and, most of all, welcoming. Those
visitors who venture into Gascony tend to
follow the few well-publicised tourist paths
such as Lupiac, the birthplace of
D’Artagnan, one of the Three Musketeers
made famous in the novel by Alexandre
Dumas, or Lourdes, which, following the
Marian apparitions of 1858, became a
Catholic pilgrimage site.
Undiscovered Gascony
If, like many, you have a desire to escape
the routine, here you’ll find an
undiscovered paradise with some of the
most spectacular scenery in France.
Gascony is truly a land that time forgot.
.
There are many recreational choices to
match your individual taste, including
cycling, fishing, kayaking or rafting on the
beautiful Gave de Pau and Gave d’Oloron
rivers nearby. Whether you’re vacationing
or just passing through, you’ll want to time
your visit to include lunch at Les Fontaines
Fleuries. The menu at this fabulous
restaurant is sourced from local producers,
prepared in-house, and is what memories
are made of.

Lectoure was the first capital of the Gers
department, considered the heart of
Gascony.
During the Middle Ages it became the
capital of the Counts of Armagnac, three
very influential territorial lords who
commanded strategic parts of historic
Gascony. It was sacked and rebuilt by
Louis XI in 1473, and when Napoléon
Bonaparte created the départements de
France, the Gers’ capital was moved south
to the city of Auch.
Today Lectoure is a beautifully re-defined,
Neo-Classical, hilltop village with its one
main street running east to west. Its
cathedral, Saint-Gervais, which was rebuilt
in 1488, stands as a sentinel at the east
entrance of the village. Walking from one
end to the other, you’ll pass lovely old
convents, half-timbered houses, and
remnants of its original, fortified wall.
Lectoure
Book-ending the west entrance of the
village is the château of the Counts of
Armagnac which was recently renovated
into a sprawling antique mall.
The views from either side of the village are
breath-taking, and on a clear day you can
see the Pyrénées and a large swathe of the
Gers Valley. Lectoure’s pièces de résistance
include its annual crop of potently fragrant
cantaloupe melons, rose-pink garlic
(comprising more than a third of France’s
entire crop), and 20 pagan altars from the
2nd and 3rd centuries which are housed in
its museum.
Lectoure holds a fantastic farmer’s market
every Friday. Sample cheeses, olives, fresh
vegetables and wine, and stop at Maison
Baudequin, a magical chocolate shop, for a
thick hot chocolate topped with whipped
cream that rivals those of the famous
Angelina’s on the Rue de Rivoli in Paris.

Labastide-d’Armagnac
Founded in 1291, when Gascony still
belonged to England, Labastided’Armagnac
is the most charming,
medieval village in the Landes department.
Place Royale, its main arcaded square, is
said to be the model for the Place des
Vosges in Paris, commissioned by Henri
IV. When I visit there, I always feel as if I’ve
stepped onto a Hollywood movie set and
you can easily be a flâneur* here. The most
prominent feature of the Place Royal is the
elegant church, Notre-Dame de Labastide,
while a visit to the Bar Tortoré, the oldest
bar in the region, offers a chance to rub
shoulders with the locals.
Labastide-d’Armagnac is the annual venue
for the Armagnac Festival which takes
place the last weekend in October.
Considered the nectar of the gods and
superior to Cognac, Armagnac is
showcased in all of its vintages throughout
the Place Royale. For a few euros, you can
purchase an empty glass and taste your
way around the square. As the locals
enthuse, “Wine is the only thing that makes
us happy as adults for no reason”.
*French for wanderer

Nérac
Once home to the court of King Henri IV,
Nérac remains one of the most attractive
larger villages in the Lot-et-Garonne
department. During the Wars of Religion
(1562-1598) Henri’s son, Louis XIII, ordered
the entire city destroyed. Nérac lay
forgotten and fallow until the 18th century,
when it developed into a thriving
agricultural community. So economically
important was the city thought to be by
then, that in 1830, Baron Haussmann, the
architect who redesigned Paris in the
1850s, was sent to rebuild Nérac’s roads
and bridges.
Nérac has one of the best Saturday
farmers’ markets in the department. Arrive
early, indulge in a mouth-watering pastry at
the corner patisserie with a cup of delicious
coffee, then set off on a leisurely stroll
through the many market stalls. You can
also ride one of several riverboats along the
picturesque River Baïse, which dissects the
village, or promenade beneath the shade of
a variety of stately trees in the grand park,
La Garenne. This 35-hectare park, with its
many hidden nooks and crannies, was the
inspiration for Shakespeare’s Love’s
Labour’s Lost.

Bazas
Perched on a cliff and surrounded by
spectacular vineyards – most notably
those of Château d’Yquem – Bazas is a
jewel in the Gironde department. For 2,500
years Bazas was the capital city of the
Celts, then the Romans. According to
legend, its original church held a coveted
relic which gave the town its prominence: a
cloth with the blood of St. John the Baptist,
wiped up by a woman from Bazas. The
building of a church began in 1233 to house
the cloth, which remained there until the
French Revolution in 1789, when a fanatic
ripped it from its shrine and threw it into a
cesspool.
This amazing Gothic cathedral was finally
completed in 1635 and sits on an imposing
rise at the end of an unusually vast,
arcaded square that provides shelter and
shade for shops and cafés. It’s serpentine,
cobbled streets beckon admirers to view an
eclectic variety of bourgeois houses and
gardens.
Bazas was listed as a UNESCO World
Heritage site in 1998. It lies just off the
Bordeaux-Graves-Sauternes Wine Route,
where you can journey through 7,300
hectares of vineyards and visit some 494
winemakers in 52 villages for wine tastings.
Gascony Essentials
Take a tour with French Country Adventures and discover real Gascony and its
authentic villages, gastronomic restaurants and wonderful vineyards.
Getting there:
By air: the nearest airport is the International Toulouse Blagnac Airport - although
there a few other options within a couple of hours drive. (Carcassonne, Bordeaux,
Bergerac and Pau.)
By rail: There are regular train services from Paris to Toulouse, Montauban and Auch.

Spotlight on...
Montpellier
Janine Marsh visits the vibrant, sunny town of the south of France
and falls in love with its many faces...

Montpellier is very much a tale of two cities.
There's the old town with its wiggly medieval
streets. And, there's the new bit of town which
seems to change week by week. Also, there’s
the seaside bit. Okay that’s three different
faces to this dynamic city – all of which makes
for a very intriguing visit with loads to discover
and a whole lot to fall in love with.
Montpellier used to be a fishing village
many years ago, now it’s a cool town with a
hip vibe. The sun shines pretty much from
spring through autumn and then some –
300 days a year on average of sun. There’s
no need for formal dress or formality – it’s
not that sort of place and with 80,000
students (and the oldest university still in
operation in Europe – it was founded in
1180) it’s got a young and “hipster” feel to it.
I love the sound of cigales squeaking in the
plane trees, the fact that birds flit about
openly and the old-fashioned lamp posts
The old city of Montpellier
add a certain je ne sais quois to the overall
look.
Wandering in the medieval town you
suddenly find yourself on a hill, a reminder
that this is a Mont – hence the name
Montpellier. It’s not though, a hard town to
wander. It’s a small city, easy to get your
bearings and easy to get around. It’s also a
great base for sightseeing in the area. The
train service is very good and it’s a short
distance to such legends as Narbonne,
Carcassonne, Séte and even Barcelona
from the local station.

What to see in Montpellier
The pedestrianised place de la Comedie or
rather Place de L'ouef (Egg Square) as the
locals call it thanks to its oval shape, is the
beating heart of the city and a popular
meeting point. You can’t miss Café Riche in
the square, it’s an institution and is owned
by the same family who own the very
popular La Grande Brasserie a few doors
along. Locals meet at Café Riche for a
Perrier tranche (Perrier water with a slice of
lemon) or Perrier menthe (Perrier with a
shot of mint, very refreshing!). Perrier water
is from a source located between
Montpellier and Nimes so everyone drinks
it here like… well, water!
This big, vibrant café is also popular for
afternoon tea, coffee and aperitifs and is
the perfect people watching perch. There’s
also lots of street entertainment with
musicians, magicians and dancers, it’s not
organised, just spontaneous and much
loved by the locals and visitors.
Musée Fabre
This huge museum hosts permanent and
temporary exhibitions and regular exhibit
swaps with the Louvre in Paris. It was
founded in 1828 by the artist François-
Xavier Fabre in what was his home and
gallery. Since then it has grown and three
buildings now house eclectic collection that
span decades of art from 14th century
religious masterpieces to the enormous
and brooding art of Pierre Soulages, one of
France’s greatest living artists. There are
some fabulous and important works here
including a Delacroix painting which
inspired Monet, who called him the “Father
of Impressionism”. There are paintings by
Courbet, the bad boy artist of the
mid-1800s, who loved to do self-portraits
and why not, he was a handsome man! The
collection is chronological and there are
some 800 works of art so you can easily
spend a half day browsing this huge
museum, by the way it’s very cool inside on
a hot day!

Marvellous marché
The Marchés Les Arceaux is one of the
best street markets I’ve ever been to. It's
located under the arches of the gigantic
aqueduct behind the famous landmark
water tower (from which you can get
magnificent views of Montpellier). Lots of
people think the aqueduct is Roman, it isn’t,
and neither is the Arc de Triomphe in front
of it. It might seem that’s there’s a bit of a
Roman feeling to this town but in fact they
were never there.
there is all manner of fabulous food and
produce here. Most people miss this
market – don’t, it’s wonderful!
There’s also a covered market, Les Halles,
in the old town, where you can buy fresh
produce and sit at a table outside and enjoy
your feast straight away!
Marche des Arceaux is in the Peyroux
district, a little way west of the old town and
easily walkable though you can hop on the
brilliant tram service if you prefer. In the
summer months stalls groan under the
weight of fresh fruit, huge cherries, melons
and strawberries. Old ladies with baskets
and old men with plastic bags wander
along eyeing the produce, occasionally
reaching out to taste before they buy. The
smell of lavender and cheese, just baked
bread, warm fruit and slowly roasting
chickens is nothing short of drool-worthy.
The stalls are shaded by plane trees and

If you only have time to go to one
restaurant in Montpellier, then make it Le
Grillardin in the little Place de Chappelle
Neuve. In a shady little square surrounded
by beautiful old buildings with pastel blue
shutters of a shade you yearn to capture
but seems to be peculiarly French, faded
over decades, perhaps centuries. It’s a
divine setting which nourishes as much as
the delicious dishes. Tables spill onto the
square, servers nip about explaining (in
English if required) what’s on the menu.
“Salmon is our starter of the day” I was told
“smoked in our own chimney” with pride.
Tables fill quickly here so book in advance
or get there for 7.30 when service starts. It’s
loved by the locals and no wonder…
Chez Boris is famous in Montpellier for its
meaty menu, if steak’s your thing you're
going to love it here - and the crispy home
cooked chips. The servers are friendly and
speak English and it’s fun to watch them
dash across the road with trays of food and
drinks to the terraces on the other side
under Plane trees.
Where to eat in the Old Town
Burger and Blanquette is a burger bar with
panache and the most delicious salads
ever. Eat inside the cool restaurant or on the
esplanade outside under shade and
watching the world go by. Seriously lush.
Head to the contemporary art centre La
Panacée for Sunday brunch, you need to be
there by 11.am as there’s no reservation
system but for about 18 euros you’ll get a
great menu. The locals love this place and
for a true taste of Montpellier – it’s perfect.
Stop for a cooling chilled tea at the lovely
Citron Salon de Thé.
Cool bars
Cafe Joseph has been going for nearly 3
decades and makes for a vibrant night out,
good music and dance floor - and it's not
too young.
Le Glougou (which means glug glug) 27 rue
du Pila St Gély – great food and great
atmosphere, there are big wooden tables
that promote friendly chitchat and you can
buy wine by the glass, great for a nightcap.

The new city of Montpellier
Montpellier is a booming area, often voted
one of the places the French would most
like to live and the number of residents is
growing year on year. To cope with the
influx, the town is expanding in an
extraordinary architectural experiment.
The city has been expanding for a while -
at first it went north towards the hills but in
a calculated decision to control the growth
and make it something special, the town is
spreading south to the sea. The initiative
that was hatched in 1977 by then Mayor
Georges Frêche. The goal was to create the
perfect city. The architectural team started
with a blank canvas and turned the
outskirts of Montpellier into a real-life
laboratory of architecture.
Antigone
The Antigone neighbourhood, named after
the ancient Greek play, was erected
principally during the 1970s and 1980s. It
has plenty of grand neo-classical buildings
and wide-open boulevards, including the
central axis nicknamed the Champs-
Elysées by locals. The most innovative
architects in the world have designed
buildings here but it’s happened in a very
organised way. It’s not a messy hotchpotch
of looks, there’s a consistent theme being
woven through this new part of Montpellier.
Wide open spaces, height restrictions, even
the look has to a certain extent been
controlled although architects have been
given a free hand overall while keeping to a
few rules.

Port Marianne
The fast-rising Port Marianne district
features canals and a small lake which is
home to ducks and giant water rats (which
I thought were otters, they’re very cute). It’s
lined by low height apartments of all
different shapes but with a continuous
theme of low central penthouses. The light
in the area is great and the colours too -
from deep blue of the Jean Nouvel
designed Hotel de Ville to deep chocolate
on a swanky block of flats. Cafés,
restaurants and shops are opening on a
regular basis and the tram service (some of
them designed by fashion legend Christian
Lacroix) reaches all the news residential
areas. The area is an architectural fan’s
dream.
The result is stunning and the NY Times
has placed Montpellier in the top 100
architectural cities to see before you die.
Where to eat in the new town
Terminal # 1 run by the Pourcel brothers
(who at 22 were the youngest Michelin star
chefs in France). Terminal # 1 is a great
place for a drink, the food is quite fancy,
certainly delicious, and though they're not
searching for a star with this one, the
quality is there.
The RBC Kitchen is filled with design items
for the whole home, as well as a basement
area with affordable items. It might not
strike you as the best place to go to eat but
it has a fabulous restaurant hardly known
by tourists but loved by savvy locals for its
architectural style and stylish menu.
La Gazette, Montpellier’s weekly magazine
of events and news, has a cool, organic café
in an old garage that’s popular with arty
types.

The seaside
Get out of the city and take a dip in the
Mediterranean Sea. With an unspoiled
coastline, silky sand beaches and jut 10km
from the centre of town, the beaches of
Montpellier make for a fabulous day at the
seaside.
Petit Travers and Grand Travers (between
the Grande Motte and Carnon), Palavasles-Flots,
Aresquiers in Frontignan, or
Espiguette in Le Grau-du-Roi, are ideal for
water sports or just lazing about. You can
reach them by bus or tram from the city
centre (check at the tourist office for
services/times), for instance Tram Line 3
will take around 45 minutes to Pérols, a
mere 800m from the Mediterranean Sea.
How to get there:
Take the train – just 3 hours from Pars (check) 5 hours from Lille (both on the Eurostar
route). Its extraordinary that in such a short time you’ll find yourself plunged into the
heart of Languedoc Roussillon, Occitainie as the new super region is called
(Languedoc Rousillon merged with Midi-Pyrenees).
By air - Montpellier airport is just 10 minutes’ drive from the city
Stay at
Hotel les Occitanes makes for a great base with roomy studios close to the station
Useful websites: www.destinationsuddefrance.com; www.montpellier-france.com

Isle-sur-la-Sorgue in Provence makes for the perfect weekend destination
year-round thanks to its status as the antiques capital of France. Not to
mention the fact that it is one of the prettiest towns you’ll ever meet, Full of
charming restaurants, bars and cafés and a buzzing atmosphere.
Janine Marsh falls head over heels for the little antiques paradise
I arrived in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue on a sultry
evening having travelled by train from
Paris. My base was the Hotel Les Terrasses
and the first thing I did when I got to the
room was fling open the windows to drink
in the views. Bang, smack over the top of
the famous Basin de Sorgue or as the
locals call it Le Bassin Bouïgas, dusk was
falling, lights glowed softly in trees, the
reflections shimmering gently on the
surface of the clear water. The sound of
laughter, light chatter and glasses clinking
floated up to my window tempting me to
join the diners below.
It’s an iconic sight that little lake,
restaurants line the terraces around it,
birds sing in the trees and it is the perfect
place for people watching. A glass of rosé,
the favourite drink of Provence, was set in
front of me with a dish of crusty bread and
dark tapenade. The scent of the crushed
olives filled the air, my determination to diet
dissolved, won over by the smell and the
sight of the little dishes.
The warm air and the pink and purple sky
made for a magical moment and I couldn’t
help thinking “it doesn’t get much better
than this”. My salad was delicious, the
ambiance was wonderful and I couldn’t
fault my first night in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. I
slept like a baby and woke up to deep blue
skies and the sound of the town coming
to – it’s enough to make you fall in love
with a place.

I nibbled on a flaky golden croissant for
breakfast on the terrace of the hotel where
I watched a couple of local fishermen down
“keep me awake for a week” espressos.
Across the Basin, the clock on the wall of
the restaurant read the same time as it did
when I arrived, the same time as it does
every day. I felt like it was saying, don’t
worry about rushing, take your time, there’s
nowhere you need to be except here,
enjoying yourself. The word idyllic sprang
to mind.
I had heard that Isle-sur-la-Sorgue has lots
of antique shops and flea markets. I’d seen
some lovely photos of the town. But
nothing prepared me for the sight when I
walked a few yards along the road from the
hotel and turned into Avenue des Quatre
Otages. Filling the pavement and spilling
into the road were stalls piled with things I
wanted to take home from furniture to
antiques heaven
paintings, ornaments, knick knacks, china,
textiles and this and that. Every alley, every
side road, every entrance seems to lead to
another antiques warehouse or shop or a
whole cluster of shops in antiques villages.
Shady squares and ancient buildings - full
of stuff! It’s like the Antiques Road Show
come to life right in front you times a
hundred – or rather times 300 as that’s the
number of permanent dealers here.
And as if that’s not enough, every Sunday
there’s an outdoor antiques market and
there are international antiques shows
every Easter and in August when around
200 more sellers arrive so you can fill your
boots. It's a popular event and a stall holder
told me that each year, a foreign Prince
arrives with his several wives to shop. He
gives each of them a huge shipping
container to fill with antiques and ship back
home. That's what I call retail therapy!

When you’re done rummaging
Through the town of Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
runs the bubbling river Sorgue, originating
from the famous source of the Fontaine de
la Vaucluse a mere 5 miles away. Along the
river are a dozen or so historic, green mosscovered
water wheels – they’re beautiful to
look at and are a reminder of the town’s
past when it was a centre of wool, paper
and silk making. Follow the river to the
point where it divides known as “le partage
des Eaux” for a very pretty view and the
perfect selfie spot.
There are plenty of places to shop for
souvenirs, clothes, gourmet food products
and gifts that aren’t antiques.
Eating and drinking
Around Le Bassin, along the river, in cobble
stone squares under the shade of plane
trees – there’s plenty of choice here.
Locals love:
The perfect place for lunch is the Café du
Village in the Le Village des Antiquaires de
la Gare. It’s popular with dealers, locals and
visitors for its shady ambiance and
fabulous menu. In France, its de rigeur to
take two hours for lunch and at this lively,
pretty restaurant you won’t have any
problems whiling away the hours.
2 Avenue de l'Égalité
Dinner at Les Terrasses hotel restaurant
round the Le Bassin. Tasty food, friendly
staff and the view is to die for…
Grab a snack at Le Cri des Crocs food
truck – my friend Marie who lives in Islesur-la-Sorgue
says the food is always very
good, organic salads and tasty hamburgers
that you can eat at the little tables in front
of the river, a picturesque spot.
871 Route d'Apt

Wine and Dine:
Le Vivier restaurant has a fabulous menu
created by a talented team. With a
Michelin star, creative, refined cooking,
stunning location overlooking the river
Sorgue with the sound of a water wheel
gently splashing – it’s nigh on perfect and
very romantic.
800 Cours Fernande Peyre
Aperitif heaven
Sous la Robe, a wine bar with a pretty
courtyard where they do a great planche (a
plate with nibbles) with your drink.
5 Avenue des Quatre Otages
Pop in for a beer, glass of wine or pastis at
the Café du France simply because it’s so
very French and pretty!
5 Avenue des Quatre Otages
How to get to the Isle-sur-la-
Sorgue
By train from Paris via Avignon. In
summer months the Eurostar runs
direct from London to Avignon. The
train from Avignon to Isle-sur-lasorgue
costs a few Euros and takes 25
minutes.
By Air: Avignon Airport or Marseille-
Marignane International Airport then
take the train.
Hotel: Les Terrasses de David et
Louisa, simple, comfy rooms and a
view to die for...
Tourist office website:
www.oti-delasorgue.fr; www.
provenceguide.com

LYON
A shade under 2 hours on a fast train from Paris will bring you to the south of France and
the lovely city of Lyon. The gastronomic capital of France, Lyon is a feast for the eyes, the
soul and the stomach. Janine Marsh seeks out tempting visits for culture vultures and
shoppers and finds that in the old town, almost every other building seems to house a
restaurant, bakery, wine bar or somewhere to tempt your taste buds.
What to do in one day in Lyon
Let’s assume you arrive in time for
breakfast and will stay for an early dinner
catching the 21.04 train back to Paris.
At a Glance
It’s a long walk to the old town from the
station and as you’re only there for a day
it’s worth taking the metro to Place
Bellecour. Get a map from the tourist office
which is in Place Bellecour and from where
you can take a guided tour on an open top
bus. It stops at 13 key sites and you can get
on and off as you like, so you can spend
time where you want and it saves you the
trouble of buying a one-day travel pass,
making it really good value at €19.00.
If you don’t want to take the guided tour,
from Place Bellecour you can walk over
Pont Bonaparte, the bridge that crosses the
River Saône and straight into the Old
Town – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s
a place of medieval towers, renaissance
mansions, cobbled streets, amazing
restaurants and a fascinating history.
Culture Vulture
There are several museums including the
huge, recently opened Musée des
Confluences in the regenerated docklands
area. Its radical design has raised eyebrows
but the exhibition of the story of mankind
shown through a collection of two million
objects is very popular.
You’re bound to come across the word
“traboules” in Lyon. These are a network of
medieval covered alleyways and stairs in
the Croix Rousse district linking courtyards
and houses to the river. Lyon was famous
for its silk weaving industry and the
traboules enabled goods to be transported
without getting wet.

Cinema fans will enjoy the fascinating
museum dedicated to famous residents of
Lyon - Auguste and Louis Lumière, the
world's first film-makers, located in their
former, art deco home.
Shopping
Lyon has a sweet tooth so there's plenty of
opportunity to take home some luscious
memories, Violette & Berlingot is a sugary
feast (52, Passage de l'Argue). You might
not be so keen on the local speciality,
andouilette, a sausage made from offal, it's
a bit of an acquired taste and one day may
not be long enough to acquire it!
Where to eat
It’s hard to know where to start in a place
that has more restaurants per head than
any other town in France including 14
Michelin star restaurants. Eating out is a
passion and hobby for the Lyonnais and
there’s a huge choice. Head to the old town
to experience Bouchons, traditional Lyon
eateries that are very charming. Fun dining
to fine dining, microbreweries, ultra-posh to
gourmet burger – this town has it all, and
then some. Rue Mercier in the newer part of
town is brilliant for restaurants too.
Du Pain: Not strictly a bakery but a very
special patisserie and chocolate shop –
Bernachon of Lyon is an institution and a
must visit for any sweet tooth. 42, cours
Franklin Roosevelt
Du Vin: Les Vins des Vivants - a wine bar
that’s run by two brothers, a great setting in
the Croix Rousse district, charming venue
and absolutely brilliant wines. 6 Place
Fernand Rey
Du Train: Trains from Paris (Gare de Lyon
or Bercy) to Lyon are direct and the shortest
journey time is 1h57. Between Monday to
Saturday the earliest train from Paris to
Lyon leaves at 5:50am, arriving at 7:56am,
in time for breakfast. The last train back to
Paris is 21.04 arriving 23.12 (Note: times are
subject to change so please check the
departure and arrival times carefully via
SNCF or your ticket operator).

Photo: Vicke Cunningham
Autumn in France means is a time of joie de vivre and in Paris the weather is usually
mellow, culture is on the menu, plus walks in parks where the leaves on the trees are red
and gold is a memorable experience as is hot chocolate in a square and so much more.
Autumn is the perfect time for a Paris getaway and here are ten reasons to
prove it!
Nuit Blanche
Montmartre Wine Festival
For one night only, each year Paris
becomes an open-air museum. There is
nothing quite like this truly astonishing
night of art, culture and surprises. As dusk
falls, the city springs to life as an
extravaganza of luminous installations and
sensory experiences astonish audiences.
Nuit Blanche hands the city over to
contemporary artists to reimagine its
streets and buildings and the public are
invited to join in. This is an exceptional
night of art that will thrill, provoke and
amaze from dusk to dawn. This one event
alone is enough reason to visit Paris in the
Autumn as far as I’m concerned.
7 October
Did you know that Paris has a secret wine
producing vineyard in the heart of the city
at Montmartre?! Each October the Fête des
vendanges de Montmartre celebrates the
art of food and wine. It’s one of the most
popular events with Parisians with free
concerts, exhibitions, parades and tastings
in the heart of the city. Join the locals in a
celebration of the grape harvest right in the
centre of Paris.
11-15 October

Museums museums museums
With around 200 museums in the city to
choose from, you’re truly spoiled for choice.
20 museums are free all year-round
including the Petit Palais which is home to
1300 works of art. Other museums are free
on the first Sunday of the month and some
open late which makes for a special
ambiance, such as the Palais de Tokyo
which is open until midnight daily (except
Tuesdays). Museums are less crowded in
autumn and good for days when it’s raining
or a little bit chilly out.
Hot Chocolate à la terrace
And, if it is a bit chilly out then what could
be nicer than wrapping up warm and
sipping a hot chocolate while you drink in a
wonderful view. One of the most beautiful
spots is by Notre Dame where you'll find
plenty of cafés where you can sit outside
and watch the sun set and listen to those
famous bells toll – it’s priceless.
Hit the book stores and chill
There are loads of book stores with English
language books in Paris and lots of them
have cafés and even wine bars so you can
sit and read in an ambient atmosphere.
Two of the best are Shakespeare & Co. near
Notre Dame Cathedral, it' has a lovely café
alongside the book store, and WH Smith,
an institution for Brits, in rue de Rivoli with
its upstairs “olde English” style tea room.
Exhibitions Galore
Catch Hockney at the Pompidou featuring
more than 160 artworks (ends 23 October);
Gauguin at the Grand Palais (11 October
2017 – 22 January 2018) and see a once in a
lifetime exhibition of Picasso’s “year of
wonders” artworks from 1932, with more
than 100 paintings and sculptures at the
Musée Picasso (10 October 2017 – 11
February 2018).

Fountain Festival
A chance to enjoy the musical Fountains
Show at the Palace of Versailles without
the crowds.
Ends 29 October 2017
Haute Culture
The brand new Musée Yves Saint Laurent
is scheduled to open 3 October, presenting
iconic couture pieces and historic
accessories – a must for those with a
passion for fashion.
Music Maestro
The world’s top singers and musicians play
at famous Parisian venues. This season
brings the divine Lady Gaga and Shakira to
Paris to perform at the AccorHotels Arena
at Bercy. The Philarmonie de Paris begins la
rentrée on 2 September with a full
programme of concerts and shows
featuring the greatest names in classical
music from composers to performers.
In the streets and squares, in the cafés and
bars, music is alive and well in Paris, just
wander and listen you’re sure to hear the
sound of Paris in the autumn sooner or
later…
European Heritage Days
The weekend of 16 and 17 September sees
monuments, museums, sites and public
buildings open their doors for free to the
public in a spectacular weekend celebrating
the city’s heritage. There are free
workshops, guided tours and behind the
scenes visits galore – this is an unmissable
Paris cultural event.
More info from www.parisinfo.com

Lucy Pitts explores The noble town of
Grignan and its Parisian style surprise
What a surprise Grignan is as you round a
corner on your way to Nyons, in southern
Drôme in the south of the Rhône Alpes
region. This 11th century, fortified village
suddenly comes into view, majestic and
proud above the low lying lavender fields,
looking decidedly regal in an area that still
oozes rustic charm.
There are a couple of different roads into
the footings of the village and the one I
chose felt very grand. Plane trees either
side heralded my arrival as I swept through
a small parkland area and arrived at the
first wall of the fortifications.
A farmer was hard at work putting his
lavender fields to bed right up to the village
boundary and the wall is broken by an
imposing gate with large stone pillars
either side, suggesting a medieval village
with a bit more of a story to tell.
A village with a secret
Turn the corner and a broad esplanade
escorts you to the first steps up to into the
heart of the village and to a large, 19th
century, circular bath surrounded by
columns, known as the Lavoir du Mail. With
the Mistral wind constantly pulling at your
hair and the heat of an early September
day, a quick dip and cool off is quite
tempting.
As you climb on, what awaits you inside
the walls is a charming medieval village.
There’s a tiered system of narrow and
cobbled streets that wind their way around
and up to the apex of the hill, with views
across the lavender, vineyards and
sunflowers. It’s predominantly pedestrian
and makes a pleasant morning, walking
fully around the village, stopping at the
boutiques or at a pavement café.

Chateau Grignan
Of course, you can’t help but be aware that
the crowning glory of Grignan is its castle
and as with any medieval village you have
an idea of what to expect. One way or
another the narrow streets of the village
lead you to a grand approach and a large
and imposing wooden door at the rocky
top of the hill. But you can’t see the
chateau until you’ve entered the inner
circle. And even then, there’s one last climb
before you turn the corner and there she is.
In all her magnificent, unexpected and
spectacular glory.
It’s as if someone has transported
Versailles or a large piece of Paris to this
quiet corner of northern Provence. There’s
a vast open forecourt at the far end of
which stands the exquisite Renaissance
façade. Mount Ventoux, the Pre-Alpes and
the Dentelles are all visible behind you and
for a moment you’re caught in a
spellbinding silence. Horse drawn
carriages spring to mind and you can
almost see dainty feet topped by
sumptuous ball gowns stepping out of the
carriage doors to the sound of laughter
from courtiers as they swish their way
inside.
\chateau with a troubled past
The originally 12th century chateau, was
completely transformed in the Renaissance
period into this superb stately home. It
boasts high and beautifully painted
ceilings, grand ball rooms and galleries,
Versailles style parquet floors and beautiful
wood panels hung with huge tapestries.
The ornate bedrooms have far reaching
views to the south and east and the whole
chateau is juxtaposed with the 16th century
collegiate church who’s roof acts as an
additional terrace for the chateau. A terrace
on the church roof, I hear you say, that’s
sacrilege and that’s what the people of the
time thought too.

Perhaps predictably, during the French
revolution the chateau, like so many
others, was partially destroyed and looted
owing to its strong connections with the
establishment and the royal family. Over
the next two centuries, Chateau Grignan
struggled to recover its glory.
Famous one time owner, Parisian dandy
with a fabulous name - Boniface de
Castellane only added to its woes. He sold
off many of its remaining treasures at the
beginning of the 20th century to pay for his
divorce from American heiress Anna Gould
.
It wasn’t until ownership fell into the hands
of Marie Fontaine in 1912 that a full
programme of restoration began. Today it’s
one of the most prestigious and leading
examples of Renaissance architecture in
the south. So unexpected, so splendid.
Website: www.chateaux-ladrome.fr
Time for tea
Right back down at the foot of the village is
the utterly delightful Clair de la Plume, a
quintessentially French tea house (if there
is such a thing). Its courtyard garden is a
little oasis with tables hidden in amongst
the sage, lavender, honeysuckle, hibiscus
and thyme and a long list of teas, cakes
and pastries served in floral crockery is
hard to choose from.
This former ambassador’s house also holds
a 17th century kitchen and a Michelin star
restaurant, as well as a secret garden, a
short walk from the courtyard. In the
garden, behind the village wall, you’ll find a
lover’s pavilion with views back across to
Grignan, a Mediterranean garden and a
natural swimming pool. If you’re looking for
somewhere to stay while you explore, this
is a sumptuous spot.

Grignan is a surprise and there’s just one
last tip before you move on.
Just outside the village, in the industrial
zone, is a gift shop. It’s called Durance and
you probably wouldn’t have given it a
second glance. But from lavender hand
cream, poppy shower gel and camellia
body lotion, it’s filled with all sorts of
natural produce, everything locally sourced
and deliciously fragrant. If you want to take
home the smells of Provence and Grignan,
it’s worth a quick deviation.
For more information about Drôme
visit:
www.ladrometourisme.com
Transport to Drôme:
Valence has a TGV station and it’s
possible to get trains from the UK or
Paris. ukvoyages-sncf
Although Valence has an airport, most
flights are to Lyon or Grenoble.

The long lost love Cheese
of the Auvergne
Michael Cranmer goes all Sherlock Holmes to find a mystery cheese
he fell in love with in the Auvergne...
It began ten years ago, on Friday 15
February, 2008, to be precise, in a small
hotel, in a small town called Le Mont-Dore
in the Auvergne. I'd stopped for the night
en-route to the Alps. After my long drive I
just wanted a meal and then bed. The food
was decent, the elderly waiter attentive.
Clearing my plate he asked if I would like
any cheese. I don’t suffer ‘cheese-dreams’,
so said “yes”, little knowing that the
memory would haunt me for the next
decade.
He brought a selection. In the centre was a
small volcano, its pale lovely crust covered
in a dusting of ash. How extraordinary! (...
but perhaps not, as the Auvergne is dotted
with dormant volcanoes).
Intrigued, I cut a slice. An eruption of
pleasure filled my mouth. I smiled. The
waiter smiled, “Vous aimez ça?” Oh, yes, I
like it very much. Intensely creamy, slightly
pungent; I closed my eyes in ecstasy as the
flavour held me. Finally, I asked the
name…and promptly forgot it. That was a
BIG MISTAKE, and one that was to haunt
me for the next ten years. If only I’d written
it down. If only my memory was not like a
perforated plastic bag. If only…
But for then I went to bed a happy man,
savouring the aftertaste of my little slice of
delectation. Somehow, as I slept, the
volcanic remembrance embedded itself in
my subconscious, to surface intermittently
and worry at me like the equivalent of a
snatch of a song...
I knew I loved THAT cheese, and I wanted
more. But how to get it? An early start
meant no chance to enquire in the town.
Time passed, the taste nagged at me: I
would gaze wistfully in fromageries hoping
for a glimpse of my lost love (which was
definitely féminin in my mind, not
masculin). I trawled the internet, always
looking. On a visit to Paris, enquiries in the
best cheese shops yielded only shrugs.
But I never gave up. Always searching,
always hoping, always longing.
Then, nine years after that first and only
assignation, whilst in London I bumped

into Corinne from Auvergne Rhône-Alps
Tourism and told her of my plight. She
understood at once, “Leave it with me. I will
make some enquiries”.
Two weeks passed, until, one morning I
had an email from Corinne!
‘I tried to find a pyramid-shape cheese
covered in ash, made in Auvergne. I found
one last Saturday, it is a goat cheese, it
does exist’.
My heart raced as I read her reply. But then
came another email from my French
‘Sherlock Holmes’, this time with a
photograph: “Dear Michael, … there is a
cheese in the centre of the picture which is
the one you are looking for, in La
Fromagerie Nivesse cheese shop in
Clermont-Ferrand and the cheese is a raw
milk goat cheese, from the region of
Courpière, not far away from Clermont-
Ferrand. The name of the cheese is Le
mont de Courtesserre”.
Eureka! I’d been right all along. My lovely
did exist, just an hour and a half from where
I’d had my first-and-only-taste.
I began to study the photo ‘Sherlock’ (aka
Corinne) had sent. It was tantalizingly
ambiguous. Taken from directly above, it
showed nine cheeses, the central one
being square and ash-covered.
As I puzzled over it, a sinking feeling came
over me. This didn’t fit with my ten year-old
memory. Yes, it was obviously a goat’s
cheese. Yes, it was dusted with ash. Yes,
the texture and rind looked right, but the
distinctive volcano shape just wasn’t there.
Now in a panic, I contacted ‘Sherlock’
expressing my doubts. She explained that
the overhead viewpoint didn’t show the
volcano shape of my ‘chosen’ (as she so
charmingly called it). It was like holding an
identity parade from above. Phew!
‘Elementary, my dear Watson’ (to misquote
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle)

Three months later I set out for Clermont-
Ferrand and a date with my cheesedestiny.
Crazy thoughts filled my head:
would my ‘Long-Lost Love Cheese’ have
changed? Would that distinctive taste and
look be the same as the memory buried in
my sub-conscious?
Corinne had arranged lunch at La
Fromagerie Nivesse. She laughed at my
nervousness. It felt like a first date. The
waiter fussed around, recommending a
local wine. I couldn’t sit still. I pushed past
the queue of hungry customers to look at
the vast counters of cheeses, trying to spot
‘her’…I felt overwhelmed by the dozens and
dozens of products…but, then, there in the
corner by the door, nearest to where we
were sitting, almost as if ‘she’ was wanting
me to see ‘her’ first, was my ‘Long-Lost
Love Cheese’. There was no mistaking the
soft angle of ‘her’ flanks, the delicate pale
crust, outlined by darker dustings of ash,
and the creamy skin. The hub-bub of the
shop faded away as I bent over to gaze at
this object of desire that had taken ten
years to find.
Now to taste! Before us was a plate of
charcuterie, fruit, bread, and a selection of
six local cheeses. I only had eyes for one. I
gently slid a slice onto a piece of bread,
and, oh! The first eruption of pleasure at the
creamy inside overwhelmed me. Then the
velvety sensation of the crust dusted with a
complex bite of ash followed. Every-thing
I’d remembered came flooding back. A
mouthful of wine, and then another slice.
The emotion of the moment I had waited
ten long years for held me. I savoured it to
the full. “So, it is your cheese?” Corinne
chuckled. No need to respond. My silly grin
said it all.
“I have arranged for you to visit the farmer
who makes your Love-Cheese” Corrine
said, “He is expecting you this afternoon”.
It took a while to find La Côte Courtesserre.
Forty minutes east of Clermont, the GPS
got me to the general vicinity, but I couldn’t
find it. So I did the commonsense thing and
explored every lane, every track, every byway,
until eventually I spotted a field with a
flock of goats.

This must be it! Sure enough a handpainted
sign announced ‘Fromage de
Chèvre fermier. J-B Navaron’.Jean-Baptiste
peered thought the window of his tiny dairy
as I pulled up.
I’d interrupted his cheese-making but
smiling, he explained he’d taken over his
parent’s farm about eleven years ago and
had around a hundred and twenty shegoats
and a few billys. Out of sight was a
small herd of cows. It was an idyllic spot,
cresting a gentle hill, the Chaîne des Puys
dormant volcano range is the backdrop. It
was clearly not chance that my cheese
mimicked the shape and exact angle of the
slope of these giants.
I asked Jean-Baptiste about his day. “I get
up at six-thirty and milk the goats and
cows”, he smiled. “On your own?” I asked.
“Just me. I do it for love. For passion. Every
single day. My last holiday was three years
ago. Then I go to a Farmer’s Market or take
my cheeses to shops like La Fromagerie
Nivesse. Back in the afternoon to make
more, around sixty a week” He produces
four goat, two cow, and one mixed types.
Mine didn’t really have a name, he
explained, “Customers give their own
name”. The Long-Lost Love Cheese with no
name I thought. I was too shy to tell him.
We crossed the track, negotiated an electric
fence, and he called to his goats. They flew
down from the hilltop to surround us, a
joyful, nuzzling, inquisitive bunch, sleeklycoated
and happy. I’d reached the pure
source of my lovely cheese, a contented
farmer, with his contented animals.
Thus my story ends, but with a twist. In
2013 I had a heart attack, and as part of a
healthier regime, decided I would forsake
cheese. The taste of my Long-Lost-Love
Cheese was the first I’d had for three and a
half years. I’m happy and at ease now. I’ve
found her, and having savoured the taste,
I’ve given up cheese again.
But I have the memory.
Michael Cranmer travelled courtesy of
Atout France and auvergnerhonealpestourisme.com

Toulouse may not immediately come to
mind as a destination for a short break but
this exciting, vibrant and historic city is less
than a 90-minute flight from the UK and is
well served from all over France by the rail
network.
Toulouse is the fourth largest city in
France, well known as the home of the
European Space industry and of airbus,
though I was here for the food, culture and
architecture of La Ville Rose (“the pink
city”).There are no stone quarries nearby
so rich local clay is used to make pinkish
terracotta bricks which many buildings are
made of. In the early morning or late
afternoon sunshine they are a
photographer’s dream.
Making for a great base, the Grand Hotel de
l’Opera, is slap bang in the middle of the
city on the vast Place du Capitole. It is one
of the classic mansions of the city and
boasts two restaurants, both sharing the
same courtyard. Les Jardins de L’Opera is
the gastronomic home of Michelin starred
chef Stephane Tournie while the more
affordable Brasserie de L’Opera run by chef
Gratien Castro is terrific.
Sitting here with a glass of Pastis, nibbling
on amuse bouches, half a dozen plump
escargot swimming in garlic butter and
steak frites, makes for a very French, very
relaxing lunch.

Place Charles de Gaulle is a good starting
point for a visit to the city to find out what’s
on and to pick up a one-day Toulouse Pass
Tourisme at the tourist office. The pass
gives you free entry to the museums and
reduced rates at many of the city’s
attractions. It also includes free travel on
public transport, metro, bus, tram and
airport shuttle bus as well as a guided tour
of the city and a free cruise along the River
Garonne.
The walking tour of Tolouse starts from the
tourist office housed in the historic Donjon
du Capitole. This much-loved building
houses the Hotel de Ville, the Theatre
Nationale Orchestra and Opera House. It is
well worth a visit to see the dramatic wall
murals depicting the seasons of Toulouse.
You can’t help but notice that all over the
city are two symbols, a twelve-pointed
cross and the scallop shell. The cross is
The Occitan Cross also known as the cross
of Languedoc, it is the symbol of Occitania
and appears everywhere. The place du
Capitole has a huge brass one set in the
floor, designed by Raymond Moretti in
1995, each point is a symbol of the zodiac
A short stroll through streets lined with
buildings of pink bricks brings you to the
basilica of Saint-Sernin. This was an
important stop on the Way of St James, one
of the routes of Santiago de Compostela,
which of course explains the appearance of
the many scallop shell symbols in Toulouse
(pilgrim's motif).

Next stop is the massive Jacobins Convent.
To be fair it is not the most beautiful
building from the outside. Don’t let this put
you off because this severe brick built
block is extraordinarily light inside with
massive pillars and palm-tree-like ribs
reaching huge heights. The cloisters are a
welcome cool place to rest up from the
heat of the city.
There is so much more to see on this walk
but rather than listen to me - go there and
follow in my footsteps - you won’t be
disappointed.
Place St Georges is one of the locals’
favourite squares in the city, ringed with
cafés and restaurants. It is the perfect
place to spend a relaxing evening watching
the world go about its business. You
couldn’t do much better than head to
Monsieur Georges for a tasty dinner. The
duck profiteroles are divine, washed down
with a glass of perfectly chilled rosé.
There are lots of hotels in Toulouse to suit
all budgets. Many hotels get full during the
week out of season with business folks
visiting the aerospace and aviation
industries but being empty at weekends,
they offer some great deals.
Toulouse is the sort of place where you can
leave your maps and guide books, GPS and
phone in your hotel room and dive into the
city and got lost in its streets. There are
shops to suit all tastes, great cafés and
restaurants to fit all budgets, food markets
and even a man-made beach on the banks
of the Garonne. There really is something
for everyone in this fabulous city.
Leave room in your suitcase to take home
some Toulouse specialities - saucissons,
tins of cassoulets and other French
gourmet delights.
Toulouse Tourist office
ukfrance.fr

Take a hike in the largest national park in
ECRINS
Rupert Parker finds out what it's like to take a break in a high mountain
refuge, a popular stopover in France, and climbs a glacier to reach an
altitude of almost 3600m...
I’ve always wondered what it would be like
to spend the night in those high altitude
French Refuges, which look so cosy,
tucked in close to the mountains. Better
yet, when I hear about a Tour Gourmand, or
gastronomy tour, walking between them,
I’m even more interested. So I pack my
rucksack and set out for the Ecrins
National Park, about a 90 minute drive
east of Grenoble. It’s the largest National
Park in France and features some of the
wildest and most dramatic scenery in the
Alps. Perhaps because of that, it remains
relatively unknown, its paths less travelled
than those famous trails further north
around Mont Blanc.
I’m told that the walking is quite strenuous
and it’s better to take less rather than more.
I whittle down my load to a change of
clothes, a sheet sleeping bag, toiletries,
sandals and of course a large water
container.
The trail starts at Gîte du Plan du Lac, near
St Christophe en Oisans, and I settle down
to a hearty lunch with a glass of wine to
give me courage, before hitting the trail.
The weather isn’t looking particularly
promising but at least it’s dry and the first
few kilometres follow the valley floor
alongside the River Vénéon.

I see the village of St Christophe en Oisans
perched high above the opposite bank, and
the signpost points me up the steep
hillside, directly adjacent to a magnificent
waterfall. I get glimpses of this as I climb,
but it’s beginning to rain and I’m keen to
reach shelter. Finally, after plodding up
600m, the tiny Refuge de l’Alpe du Pin
pops into view and I collapse with a beer.
It’s been tough and I’m hungry so I ask the
guardian, Sylvie Danjard, what’s for dinner.
She replies that it’s soup, made with
foraged herbs and looks at me. It doesn’t
sound like much but she’s teasing and of
course there's more to follow.
At 1805m, there’s no electricity, the toilet is
outside and the running water comes out
of a plastic pipe snaking down the
mountain. The refuge can sleep twenty, all
packed closely together on one platform,
but fortunately it’s only half full. Sylvie is an
excellent cook and her delicious herb soup
is served with homemade bread and a
glass of organic Cote du Rhone. Next are
Oreilles d'Âne, or donkey’s ears, a lasagnelike
dish of wild spinach, sandwiched
between layers of pasta and cheese. I’m
now thinking I’ve eaten my fill but local
sausages arrive, then pieces of Comte
cheese and finally her delicious fruit tart.
Everyone of course sleeps well, although I
do get complaints about my snoring in the
morning.
The weather is looking better as we set out
early for the next refuge. The track takes us
through the forest and then starts to
descend. I’m worrying that I’m going to lose
all the height I gained yesterday but
fortunately the path takes a right into the
Mariande Valley, then follows the Muande
stream up to the Refuge de la Lavey at
1797m. This is a much larger building than
the previous night and can take up to 60.
Its situation is stunning, surrounded by
3000m peaks, with a snow filled glacier on
the horizon. Facilities are slightly better
than the previous night, as there are inside
toilets, although if you want a shower, you
have to brave the outdoors. They’re famous
for serving world food and dinner is
typically Nepalese – rice, dhal and strips of
grilled meat.

Next morning it’s cold and crispy and
there’s frost on the grass. After crossing
the Muande stream, it’s a steep zig zag up
the mountainside, climbing to 2350m. At
this altitude, I’m feeling short of breath and
it’s a bit of a slog, but the magnificent
views more than make up for it. We
descend slightly to the Lac des Fétoules,
more of a pond really, where people have
camped overnight.
comfort. A taxi whisks us 14km to Vénosc
and we take the cable car to Les Deux
Alpes and check into the three star Hotel
Le Souleil’Or. After a couple of nights
roughing it, it really feels like a palace and
it’s good to have a room of my own. Dinner
at their Le Shakisky restaurant is excellent.
From here it’s a scramble downhill, icy
underfoot, back to the bridge over the
Vénéon River. There’s another bit of
climbing before we reach delightful St
Christophe en Oisans. The amusingly
eccentric Café La Cordée supplies the
beers and then welcomes us into their
Hamman - just the thing for washing the
dirt and sweat of the last few days away.
The Tour Gourmand continues onwards to
a couple more refuges but I’m keen to try
some glacier hiking, and I’m craving some

It’s wise to get on the glacier early, before
the snow begins to melt, so at 8am, we
meet Marc, our guide. We’ll need to be
roped so are equipped with helmets,
harness, crampons and ice axe. It’s then a
ride by cable car and funicular up to
3400m. At this altitude, even though the
sun is shining, fingers are a little cold to be
fumbling with crampons, but they’re
essential on the snow. Marc inspects each
of us, checking the harnesses and
adjusting the positions of our ice axes so
we won’t damage our partners, then leads
us single file onto the glacier.
Of course I’m the one who keeps standing
on the rope, almost tripping the person in
front of me, but I quickly learn from my
mistakes. We climb steadily, across what
looks like plain pristine snow, but there are
hidden crevasses and Marc steers us away
from particular patches which he deems
dangerous. It’s tough walking at this
altitude and any cold is banished by a sea
of perspiration.
Finally the snow runs out, replaced by a
bed of rough slate, and I realise we’re at the
summit. At this altitude the views are
stunning: Mont Blanc to the north is
completely clear and, looking south, I can
just make out the distinctive shape of Mont
Ventoux in Provence. There’s no time to
linger as the ice is melting and we need to
get off the glacier before it’s too late.
The Tour Gourmand is all inclusive, and
can be booked at berarde.com
Hotel Souleil’Or
For more information about the Vénéon
valley, see www.montagne-oisans.com.
For more information about Les Deux
Alpes, see www.les2alpes.com.
For further information about the
mountains of France see www.francemontagnes.com.

It was to be a combined holiday of skiing
for my children (aged 11, 10 and 9 - total
beginners) and dog walking. When you own
two huge hounds, Leonbergers, the
youngest of which weighs in at 75 kgs,
putting them in kennels isn’t really an
option and anyway, they’re part of the
family. Luckily we found a ski company that
accommodates all your family - even the
furry members.
Two days before we left, the husband fell
down the stairs at work and cracked his
shoulder bone. I tripped over whilst walking
the dogs giving myself concussion. As we
pulled out of the Eurotunnel in the early
hours, packed to the rafters, I couldn’t move
my neck and was still seeing stars and he
couldn’t move his shoulder. Things could
only get better, couldn’t they?
Arriving in Saint Gervais
Our apartment was on the third floor so
that was the first challenge. Leonbergers in
a lift! They may be mountain dogs but they
don’t do stairs and perhaps unsurprisingly,
I’d never tried squeezing them into a very
small space before. To their credit, they
weren’t at all bothered (although some of
the other residents might have been - we
tended to exit at speed) but we did have to
travel in two shifts as there wasn’t room for
all of us in one lift.
Once settled in, I think the dogs rather
enjoyed eating their dinner on the balcony
with views across to the Alpes and Mont
Blanc.
Day 1 – Taking it easy
We had a plan. Being a particularly mild
spring, snow was scarce, so our plan was to
ski in the mornings and walk in the
afternoons. We booked 5 days of lessons
for all of us but spent the first morning just
mucking about up the mountain on a small
piece of flat but snowy space. After an hour,
my kids declared they were now of Olympic
standard (despite not yet having gone down
a slope) and we returned to the resort for a
dog walk, relieved to find the dogs hadn’t
eaten the apartment. The temperature in
Saint Gervais for our week averaged at 18
degrees, so I felt a little over dressed in my
thick sweater and woolly hat as we headed
down to the Thermal Park – a well-known
local spa.
The spa sits in a valley, at the end of a tree
lined driveway. Cherry and apple blossom
welcomed us against a background of the
snow tipped mountains and the sound of a
river. Was this really a winter break?
We walked along a woodland path which
runs behind the spa. It was my challenge
number three as in places the path is steep,
rocky and narrow. Not so much a path,
more of a goat track, and full credit to the
very elderly lady we passed on the ascent,
they make them tough round here.
The path takes you over a slender
footbridge across a waterfall. I’m all for an
adventure and a beautiful vista but I don’t
ever see the need for there to be holes in a
footbridge with a gapping chasm below.
Especially when I’m still vaguely concussed.
And did I mention that I’m scared of
heights.

Day 2: A flying start
First day of ski school - an overwhelming
success, though I only remembered on the
way up the mountain that number 2 son
doesn’t like heights. I was beginning to
worry that I really hadn’t thought this
holiday through. The lower green runs were
open and we enjoyed meandering down
with our respective classes. My children
declared they were now semi-professional.
In the afternoon, we walked the dogs up
the mountain in Le Bettex. We had two
choices: take the cable car or drive. I’m
ashamed to admit that our courage failed
us and we drove. A combined total weight
of 150 kgs of excited dog in a cable car,
was at this stage, an adventure too far!
his wooden balcony, admiring Mont Blanc.
An old lady doing her spring cleaning with
half her furniture out on the grass after the
long winter.
We meandered through woods and across
slopes with wonderful views. You get the
occasional glimpse of magnificent chalets
set in regal grounds. We rewarded
ourselves with a G and T on our return. Gin
and fresh mountain air in the sunshine with
views across les Alpes. What a cure for the
stresses of life.
The drive from Saint Gervais to Le Bettex is
not hard and it’s worth it. The mountain is
dripping with pretty wooden chalets in all
shapes and sizes and it’s a chance to see
some of the local life. An elderly gent sat on

Day 3: It all falls apart
The exceptionally mild weather meant all
the lower slopes and most of the green
runs were closed and ski school moved up
the mountain. This revealed that my
children were not the professional skiers
that they’d come to believe they were. By
lunch time, my husband swore his knees
were finished and two of the children were
declaring they would never ski again.
Full credit to the ski school instructor who’d
spent 2 ½ hours coaxing no. 2 son down
the mountain as his fear of heights kicked
in. And to my husband who spent the
evening balancing the children on his feet
(whilst wincing in pain) so that he could
teach them about shifting their weight
when they turn rather than shooting
straight down the mountain.
It’s at those moments of your life when you
realise that three boisterous children, two
large excited dogs and a dose of stress and
fatigue is not the best combination for a
small apartment. We went out for dinner
that night.
Our dog walk that day was around the town
of Saint Gervais, our sense of adventure
flagging. The old town is pretty and as you
come into it from below it has some
beautiful, mid-19th century buildings with
intricate iron and glass arcades.
Day 4: A turn for the better
We chucked the kids out at ski school and
ran. My concussion was finally easing and a
combination of Voltarol and knee straps
were holding my husband together. We
reconvened at midday and were greeted
with smiles. The kids had mastered “the
turn”, the snow plough and had a great
morning.
We treated ourselves to an afternoon at the
“Bains du Mont Blanc” back at the Thermal
Park. They do a family session on a
Wednesday and it’s well worth it. The
thermal baths are warm, bubbly, outside
and restorative. My snow burnt, rosacea
covered cheeks needed some love and this
hit the spot. A beautiful setting, a great
chance to unwind and recover.

Day 5: A great day in the mountains
With all of us beginning to find our feet (or
rather our skis) this was a great day. We
spotted deer on the slopes from the cable
car and saw the famous Marmot scurrying
around beneath us. They look a bit like a
beaver but are in fact a large type of
squirrel. The snow wasn’t brilliant but it
was enough for us novices to enjoy the
mountains.
The dog walk was wonderful. We headed
out from the nearby village St Nicolas De
Veroce up into the mountains and back.
With a Baroque church thrown in, it has
awesome mountain views and is a great
way to see what remains of the original
way of life in the Alps. We passed a couple
of little homesteads making and selling
their own local cheese, walked through a
farm yard and the dogs drank from the old
stone water troughs that dotted the route.
This was Heidi country indeed. Remote
wooden chalets, green mountain slopes
covered in buttercups and steep winding
woodland paths. We met a weather-beaten
farmer herding his sheep and an old lady
tending her newly planted beds and we felt
like we’d conquered the world as we looked
down on the Chamonix Valley below. It was
worth every bit of effort to get there.
Day 6: We’ve nailed it
As we were only skiing in the mornings, we
abandoned ski school on our last day in
order to ski together as a family. It’s not
something I ever imagined doing and the
sight of your children whizzing past you at
speed after just 6 days, is both wonderful
and terrifying. What a success! No injuries
and everyone saying they wanted to come
back soon.
For the afternoon’s dog walk, my husband
explored the lowest slopes around our
resort while I packed up skis and prepared
for our next adventure.
Day 7
My husband caught a bus from the resort
to go to Geneva airport for the UK. The kids,
the dogs and I were heading to the Atlantic
coast. After all, how hard can swimming
with Leonbergers be?

Top Tips for dog friendly Ski Holidays
We stayed with Peak Retreats and Les
Arolles (Lagrange) in Saint Gervais for 7
nights self-catering. We travelled with
Eurotunnel (Dogs cost extra on the
Eurotunnel – at £18 / dog.).
You can book ski hire, ski passes and
insurance with Peak Retreats or buy/ hire
them in resort on arrival.
www.peakretreats.co.uk
Pre book your visit to the thermal spa
and choose any additional treatments at:
thermes-saint-gervais.com
Read Lucy Pitt's top tips for skiing with
dogs.

YOUR PHOTOS
Every weekend, we invite you to share your photos on Facebook - it's a great way for
everyone to see "real" France and be inspired by real travellers snapping pics as they go.
Every week there are utterly gorgeous photos being shared and here we showcase the
most popular of each month. Share your favourite photos with us on Facebook - the most
"liked" will appear in the next issue of The Good Life France Magazine...
Stunning photo of Mont Blanc,
Normandy by Liz Wiliamson
Montmartre Paris looking gorgeous by Na

Honfleur at dusk by Robin Cox - how lovely is that?!
Join us on Facebook
and like and share
your favourite photos
of France...
netter Gordon

GIV
Win a copy of Vagabonds in France
by Michael A Barry
When a couple lose their home in Florida they
decide not to panic but to go travelling – their end
destination being France. It’s a funny, warm and
uplifting read and an honest account of life in
France and Paris.
Click on the picture to enter the competition
to win an eBook copy of Vagabonds in
France
Read our review of Vagabonds in France

E AWAYS
Win a copy of C’est Bon: Recipes
Inspired by La Grand Epicerie de
Paris
Trish Deseine’s delicious and easy-to-prepare
recipes are inspired by the fine ingredients at La
Grande Epicerie de Paris, the famous gourmet
food shop in the upscale Bon Marché
department store. From French classics to meals
with a British flavour, each recipe has tips to
help you create superb tasting dishes at home..
Click on the picture to enter the
competition to win a copy of C'est Bon
Win a copy of Voilà!
Effortless French
Cookbook by Cécile
Delarue
Fun and easy to follow recipes
that will help you create authentic
French dishes at home. Learn how
to bake the best tartines and
quiches, make savvy sauces and
poach the perfect egg. Say
bonjour to the pleasures of French
cuisine!
Click on the picture to enter
the competition to win a copy
of Voilà! Effortless French
Cookbook

It started, as these things do, without
a lot of hoopla – my mother and I arriving
at the Place de la Concorde during her firstever
trip to Paris. The day was brilliant, the
sun glittered off the Seine, and our jet lag
made us woozy with the city’s beauty. But
then, to my surprise, my mother flung her
arms out wide and let escape a sound loud
enough for every Parisian within earshot to
turn. “I’m baaaaack!” she cried, her joy
bursting forth in a teary laugh. It was at that
startling moment I became convinced that
what she always had felt was true: in a
previous life my mother was French and
had lost her head to the guillotine – the
deadly blade that once stood in that very
spot.
Now, she has lost her head in a different
fashion. Or maybe it’s her heart. At 70-
something, this mother of five,
grandmother to seven and lifelong
Francophile is cashing in her fantasy and
becoming a French madame.
Who knew she had it in her, this utter
oneness with a buttered baguette for
breakfast (it used to be plain toast), this
bliss while browsing Monoprix, this
absolutely transcendent expression she
gets when she says to the pear man at the
market in something that’s actually French,
“deux belles poires, s’il vous plait,
Monsieur.” My mom. Now she is my
maman.

She has learned to tie a scarf, become a
connoisseur of lemon tarts. And to see her
charming them in the stalls of Saturday’s
marché aux puces at the Porte de Vanves
is to see my mom – excuse me, my
maman – inhabiting a character I suppose
has been there all along. Maybe it just was
hidden within the harried housewife of
classic California suburbia, the Frenchthemed
person that lurked beneath the
surface of the well-to-do, stay-at-home
mom possessed of passions, apparently,
far beyond the obvious: beautifully
prepared meals and a house that, thanks to
her own mastery of a mop and certain
vavavoom with a vacuum, tilted toward the
immaculate.
I don’t know, maybe there were hints. How
her garden behind our modest woodshingled
house had to have precisely
pruned rows of shapely, pointy things,
gravel paths and a fountain – a formal style
I later would learn channeled Versailles.
How she said “lingerie” unlike anyone
else’s mom, or even store clerks or TV –
pronouncing it the authentic French way
(lahn-je-ree) even though she never had
been to France, much less learned a word
of French or even met an actual French
person.
These were things, she said, she “just felt.”
And it is not like translated French books
and romantic French films fed her
imagination. From the day she met my
Army officer-turned-stockbroker dad on a
blind date, married him two weeks later and
gave birth to babies one, two, three, four
and, after a brief timeout, five, her life was
an all-consuming whirl of wifedom, children
and housework. Even if she had had the
slightest second to herself to study a
foreign language or culture, she would have
used it first to collapse, exhausted.
“Endless drudgery,” she called it all. But we
knew underneath the sometime whining
she loved it (didn’t she?). Home and family,
after all, were her pride of accomplishment.
So today when my maman, who keeps a
tiny, pink apartment in Paris’s chi-chi 16th
arrondissment, doesn’t just say, but wears
sexy French lingerie, I wonder how she was
born one person – my mom – only to
become another: this mom-object of such
major admiration (in me) that I would be
beyond thrilled if I could be even a tenth as
fabulous as she. How can becoming a
French madame do that?
Well, anyway, this is what happened. First
there was the espadrilles and boat-neck,
striped T-shirt thing. Maybe it was how
Jackie Kennedy always was photographed
in St. Tropez wearing the fetching, oh-so-
French summer outfit (with white jeans), but
my mom (who loves Jackie Kennedy, don’t
we all?) wore espadrilles coming and boatneck,
striped T-shirts going, even if it was
only to the grocery store.
Then there was the coq au vin. Maybe it
was how Julia Child in TV cooking class
would reminisce of her days at the Cordon
Bleu while slapping around her chicken
breasts, but my mom (who loves Julia Child,
don’t we all?) started revising our meals.
Coq au vin, remoulade, vichyssoise,
tapenade: Not overnight but slowly, as
surely as the Tour Eiffel lights the Paris
night with romance, even magic, family
dinners required a French accent to
describe.
By the time in her 50s she finally, finally put
down the Hoover long enough to take her
first trip to France, it was pretty much over.
My mom was quite far gone as my maman.
She could claim with pride a small,
remaining shred of dignity (trés small) after
being worked over for years by the
terrifying Mme. Bliss, the adult-school
French teacher who was none too
impressed with my mom’s…well, let’s just
say issues with the imparfait (for one).

She now routinely was going by Jacqueline,
her French given name, instead of Gadgie,
her father’s nonsensical childhood
nickname for her – which my mom would
use, but never my maman. She had our
foyer, sunroom and bathroom floors all
rehabbed in black and white tile (see,
Malmaison), named our wire-haired fox
terrier Pierre, and never, ever, even if she
were flat out postal with hunger, eat so
much as a bite between meals. Of course, a
French madame is like that: Emerging
from the boulangerie she might bite off the
butt end of her baguette before lunch or
dinner to avoid a faint, but dive into a sack
of Cheetos? Horreur! I would learn things
like that later, of course, after my mom was
well into her mamaninization.
So after her first trip to Paris and the I’ve
lived before, but I was French! incident at
the Place de la Concorde, my mom could
not get enough of it. Like she was picking
up the misplaced bits of a soul that long
ago had shattered and was scattered by
the winds of time; like she was ecstatically
sticking each one back in place until her
essence again was shining, happy, whole.
She did a trip of French cathedrals, another
of museums, a third of spas – Vittel to
Evian. There was the chateaux tour, the art
trek, the ancient villages drive-by event. If
she didn’t pray to the Virgin at Lourdes
(she did), she was buying a bikini in Biarritz
that was oh-so-Brigitte Bardot. If she
wasn’t getting teary at the beaches of
Normandy (she was), she was flipping over
the faience of Quimper, lost in downtown
Dijon, or found to have friends in Provence.
Over the years each trip would leave my
mom at little more maman-like. Her hair, for
instance. My mom’s graying brunette bob
that in the youth-obsessed U.S. was dyed
(to its eternal shame) a shade not found in
nature became in my maman a glossy bob
of silvery pride, its au natural hue (as
encouraged by her Paris hair people) a halo
of honor for her ageless grace. Her shoes
went down a heel height – the better to
speedwalk Paris cobblestones – her
handbags up in quality, and her closet….
why, if my mom were to get a load of her
closet, practically bare but for a few – a very
few – exquisitely tailored things, she would
wail I have nothing to wear! But not my
maman. She finds her dribs and drabs of
outfit take her from day to hot date with my
dad (I don’t want to know about it) in
something that before her Frenchification
my mom tried for years sans success: total
chic.
" H e r s h o e s w e n t d o w n a
h e e l h e i g h t – t h e b e t t e r
t o s p e e d w a l k P a r i s
c o b b l e s t o n e s "
Weird, no? Or as my maman would say,
non?
And it’s not like my mom’s transformation
is limited to such frippery as style. No, the
more and more my maman emerged after
mastering the many mom-challenges of life
in France – the art of just saying yes! to rich
French pastries daily without packing on
pounds, say, or the science of shampooing,
leg shaving, et al. with a shower nozzle that
has an agenda of its own – the more I was
convinced: I am the daughter of a madame!
A madame almost as authentic as if once
upon a time in another life she had been
ruled by a Louis or two. Or has she? Who
else holds family as the raison d’être of a
happy life, and has made long French-style
Sunday lunches a weekly ritual? Who else
infuses grace in moments, charm in hours
and meaning in years of loving and
generous efforts on behalf of those she
loves – never forgetting that nothing says
love like a perfectly made tarte aux
pommes? My maman, that’s who.

Oh, my mom could navigate her 70s
convinced it’s time to slow down, stick
close to home, be content to look back – a
lot – at a fruitful life best enjoyed these
days through the adventures of her
grandchildren.
Well…no. My maman will have none of it.
Racking up Air France miles, she is –
jetting between San Francisco and Paris
with a vengeance bred of the
overwhelming need I’m guessing she lost
at the guillotine: that is, to fly along rue de
Passy in the rain on her way to the Métro,
her shoes French flat, her handbag Frenchfine,
and her part-French heart totally at
home.
We miss her when she’s there, of course.
But knowing my maman, with dad, is snug
in her itsy-bitsy Paris pied-a-terre, which
vacation schedules permitting we always
are invited to share, is to thrill to my mom
knowing a happiness – no, a bliss – that I
hope one day to find for myself.
The day I was born, long before she
became my maman, my mom named me
Colette. I should have seen it coming.
In the next issue of The Good Life
France magazine Colette
O'Connor reveals how her
maman moved to Paris at the age
of 76 proving it's never too late to
make your dreams come true...

BUYING
French
Property
Karine Chariaud, contracts expert at
Leggett Immobilier shares her
advice to help you prepare
thoroughly before you begin the
search for your dream home.
Holiday makers in France often love what they find – the relaxing
lifestyle, sunshine and food. Before long, thoughts can turn to
creating a long-term relationship with this beautiful country.
For more information on buying see: A step by step guide to buying
property
FINDING YOUR HOME
Begin by drawing up the list of things you
need to factor into your buying decision.
Basic points, such as the number of
bedrooms, are obvious. But have you
thought about accessibility? If you make
frequent trips back to your old country or
expect family visits, it makes sense to be
within 90 minutes of an airport. Budget
airlines cover much of the country. There is
also the TGV (high speed train), which
makes travel to Paris and the Eurostar links
easy. If you plan to drive back and forth to
the UK, consider the distance to the
Channel ports.
WHERE TO BUY?
My advice is to thoroughly investigate the
area you have chosen. How are you going
to spend your time here? Will your hobbies
be feasible in your new French home? If
you're an ardent skier, don't buy that
beautiful house you fell in love with far from
the ski slopes. It may seem obvious, but it's
a mistake others have made.
PROPERTY CONDITION
Are you willing to renovate or do you prefer
a house where the hard work has already
been done? Chances are you'll want to do
some work to match the house to your
taste, so factor that into your decision to
buy, and your budget.
VALUE FOR MONEY
France provides an array of opportunities.
This is of key importance in any buying
decision. To international eyes, and in real
terms, French housing stock is good value
at the present time.

ADVICE YOU CAN TRUST
Get professional assistance. An agent will
be familiar with the details of French real
estate law, keep you informed about the
process of your purchase and help you
avoid any potential pitfalls. Leggett is the
only real estate company in France with
their own in-house legal team and notaire.
If you don’t speak French and your agents
don’t provide documentation in English
(we do), get it translated so that there are
no nasty surprises.
It's important to establish the legal status
of exactly who is buying the property
before you sign. If you're an unmarried
couple, you might consider buying on a
joint basis. If you're married and wish your
surviving spouse to inherit all your estate,
you will probably need to adopt a French
marriage contract or buy 'en tontine.'
Unrelated groups of people should
consider establishing a property company.
MAKING AN OFFER
When you've found your dream house, it's
time to make an offer. Once the purchase
price has been agreed, a 'compromis de
vente' is drawn up. You then have a sevenday
cooling-off period. The sale proceeds
through a notaire. You can share the
notaire with the vendor or appoint your
own – in either case the notary costs will be
the same.
Mortgages may be cheaper and may offer
some tax advantages if you are permanently
relocating. If you require a mortgage,
this will be inserted as a conditional clause
in the contract. You will need to pay a
deposit, usually 10 percent of the purchase
price. The buying process normally takes
3-4 months.
COMPLETION
When the day of completion arrives, make
sure your monies are deposited with the
notaire several days beforehand to ensure
the sale goes through smoothly. Should
you have overpaid, the balance will be
refunded. Visit the property to ensure all is
as it should be – particularly the fixtures
and fittings – and the sale can proceed.
A FINAL WORD...
If you do your research and take
professional advice, the purchase of your
dream home should be a simple process!

In France everything has its season: in
February it’s skiing; in May it’s lily-of-the
valley; in August it’s idleness; and in
October it’s tax. This last is why, as the
leaves begin to fall each year, my husband
and I get together for a financial summit.
Our budgetary discussions have a
peculiarly French flavour, however: rather
than generating spreadsheets and
instigating household economies, we hold
our annual discussion about whether or
not we should have a third child.
In the UK, our third child discussions were
all about affordability. A third child meant
maternity leave, a bigger car, an extra
mouth to feed, and a third winter coat each
year. Could our finances stretch that far, we
asked ourselves? In France, our
conversations on the subject take precisely
the opposite course, for it seems that if
French Presidents have one objective in
mind it is that I should procreate. No,
calmez-vous, there is no need for another
sleaze probe: Governmental interests in
this area are fiscal rather than prurient in
nature.
French families get to share their tax
liabilities between them, you see. This does
not mean a stingy little contribution via the
child benefit system (though French
families get that too), but a wholesale
division of the family’s tax liabilities
between each member of the family. Thus
the more numerous the family, the smaller
the bill. Whereas the super-rich in the UK
are busy messing around with offshore
bank accounts and dodgy investment
funds, here in France, where all you have to
do is go forth and multiply, tax avoidance is
much more fun.
A third child would not only reduce our tax
liability by 25% but would transform us into
a card-carrying famille nombreuse. Entire
websites are given over to the privileges
enjoyed by such families, which include
state-subsidised reductions of up to 75% in
the cost of train tickets, reduced entries to
museums, cinemas and leisure centres,

and even, in some resorts, free ski passes
for the fifth family member (lest the cost of
the compulsory February activity become
prohibitive). In addition to virtually nonexistent
childcare costs and governmentsponsored
rehabilitation of mothers' babymaking
equipment, reproduction in France
has much to recommend it.
Of course, to benefit from the munificence
of the French state, one has not only to
give birth to additional children, but to
remain in France. Prospective parents
might do well to think this through before
they embark on any course of action. Not
only does raising a family in France commit
you to a lifetime of being corrected on
the use of the subjonctif by young relatives
barely out of nappies, it also means that
your children will demand at least three
courses, one of which should be fromage,
at every meal. You will tie yourself in to
years of rote-learned poetry: charming
when it is directed towards your many and
manifold virtues on Mother’s Day, but
rather less so when you are hearing a child
drone on about the rentrée for the fifth time
in their primary school career. You will have
to learn to decipher that French curly script,
le cursive, if you ever want to stand a
chance of understanding a word that your
child writes, and if they show the slightest
glimmer of musical talent, you will become
as expert as Julie Andrews on the subject
of the gender of deer, or how far to run.
In other words, the reduction in your tax bill
comes at a price, which is why at our
annual summit we postponed any decision
until next year…
Emily Commander is a freelance writer and
journalist who lives in Lyon and blogs
about the peculiarities of French life. You
can find her at www.lostinlyon.com

Years ago, expats in France who wanted an income usually took the gite route.
Gites really took off in the 1950s when the French Government introduced a gite
classification system to breathe new life into rural economy and British expats in
particular saw the attraction. These days expats are becoming more and more
entrepreneurial and creating jobs for themselves in less traditional areas of
business.
Janine Marsh chats to a group of young Brits who’ve set up a cycling
business in the Tarn region…

Charlotte Corner and Marcus Gough and
Melanie and James Sewell from Coventry,
England, moved to the Tarn in 2015.
Charlotte and Mel are sisters and the
couples are also great friends who had a
vision. They’re in their 30’s and like an
increasing number of people, didn’t want to
wait until retirement to move to France to
live the good life.
After ten years of taking holidays in France,
and much planning, they gave up their jobs
and moved to the village of Espinas in the
Tarn et Garonne, part of the new super
region Occitanie.
location location location
started with a search for a house big
enough for all of them. And they needed
space to set up their business with lots of
storage and accommodation. And it all
needed to be in a really picturesque part of
France.
The couples fell head over heels for this
area at the junction of three regions Tarn,
Tarn-et-Garonne and Aveyron. “The
landscape is spectacular” Mel enthuses “a
combination of rolling hills and oak forests,
impressive river gorges and medieval
hilltop towns glowing golden in the
sunshine”.
“We were inspired to move to this area
after a wonderful holiday in 2013 – this
place just seemed to ‘click’ and we were
won over by the beauty of local towns and
villages, especially Saint Antonin Noble
Val. It felt like there was a lot going on and
that it was a place you could live in, not just
a place for holidays” says Marcus.
They knew they had to earn an income and
their dream was to run a cycling holiday
business – they’re all keen cyclists. They
They love the impressive Gorges
D’Aveyron, perfect to visit by bike, market
day in Saint Antonin Noble Val is superb
and they love the chance to enjoy wine
tasting in the Gaillac vineyards. “Taking a
tour of the bastide towns including Cordes
sur Ciel, a trip to the city of Albi (a UNESCO
world heritage site), a visit to the Royal
chateau fortress at Najac, the cascades of
the Bonnette river or the lush Foret de
Gresigne” are just a few of their favourite
things.

finding the dream
“We searched for hours and hours online
making long lists, then short listed those
lists until we had a selection of houses we
wanted to view” Marcus says. In the end,
they had 50 properties that were potential
for their home/business goal. It took them
a month to view them all until they saw
“the one” close to the lovely town of Saint
Antonin Noble Val.
Their house is a large, Quercy style
farmhouse with the date of 1786 above the
door. It sits in six acres with its own
woodland and surrounding meadows. The
main house was mostly renovated so they
were able to move in straightaway allowing
them to concentrate their efforts on
renovating the barn and creating cabin
accommodation for their cycling business.
“We also had to claw back the gardens
from a very wet spring which had led to the
grass growing six feet high! We spent a lot
of those early days, weeding, strimming
and mowing!” they say.
Soon after they arrived, they were invited to
take part in the Channel 4 TV series, A New
Life in the Sun. “The camera crew captured
some great footage of our ‘before and after’
transformation which has given us a
fantastic record of our achievements but
did occasionally distract us from making
progress” says Jim.
Starting a cycling business in
France
The couple say they knew it wasn’t going to
be easy to set up their new business in
France. “We had no problems sorting out
the sale of our houses in the UK, buying the
property in France, finances, setting up
websites etc but when it came to the official
paperwork we didn’t want to risk getting it
wrong” Marcus says. They hired an Englishspeaking
company in France that helps
expats resettle, set up business and sort
out life in France. Not having to worry about
paperwork freed them up to work on
making their company exactly what they
dreamed of.

“We run our holidays from our base – a
beautifully renovated barn with ensuite
bedrooms and swimming pool. Our guests
can explore the best of the region on
different routes each day but without
having to move their belongings from
place to place. We look after the pick-ups
and drop offs each day, breakfast and
dinner. It’s still a cycle touring holiday, but
all within one region, from one base so
guests can feel at home during their stay.
We use local fresh produce for our cooking
and the wine from the vineyards on our
doorstep and a key aspect of our business
is enabling others to explore and enjoy our
beautiful region.”
They also rent out their self-catering barn
and woodland cabin with wood-fired hottub
belong. “We’ve definitely adapted”
Charlotte says, especially since baby
Amadie arrived in January 2017. “Some
things take a bit of getting used to like the
fact that everything stays closed for lunch
and how much form filling there can be!
And we miss friends, family, even the rain
some days - but those things are
outweighed by all of the other special
things that living in France offers. We
particularly love the French approach to
hospitality, there is something very civilised
about the time and care taken to prepare
and eat a meal – eating in France is an
occasion not just a necessity!”
For these young entrepreneurs the move to
France has been everything they dreamed
of and more.
Living the dream
The support from the town hall and their
neighbours in Espinas has been
overwhelming say the couples. They’ve
been made to feel welcome and part of the
community and really feel as though they
Tours du Tarn run cycling holidays
throughout the year, details on their
website: www.tarncyclingholidays.com

The idea began, as most good ideas do, in the pub. Rebecca
Randall, a criminal barrister and husband Greg who works in the
City came to the realisation that they didn’t want to be commuting
to and working in London until they reached 70. They talk to Janine
Marsh about their plans for the good life in Dordogne...

“Several glasses in and one of us (we still
aren’t sure who to blame) came up with the
bright idea of moving to France and setting
up a gite business. Brilliant. Easy. What
could possibly go wrong?”
Rebecca had spent time in France as an au
pair when she was young. Greg had been
on a boys’ holiday to Le Touquet. “I had
done French at A Level. My husband could
order a beer. We were clearly well equipped
to make an incisive, life-changing decision”
Rebecca laughs.
They did though do considerable and indepth
research of the kind that involves
holidays staying in chateaux, drinking wine
and sitting by a pool. They decided that the
Dordogne was the region for them and that
they could afford to buy somewhere that
needed a little bit of renovation. “We
thought we could cope with maybe a new
bathroom or kitchen, but nothing – repeat,
nothing – major”.
They drove thousands of kilometres but
there was nothing that got their hearts
racing and butterflies fluttering. That is,
nothing until a rainy, miserable day in
March 2016.
“On a dull, wet morning we saw an
incredibly beautiful house with a large gite.
It was designed to perfection and we
wouldn’t have had to so much as lift a
paintbrush. I wanted it. In the afternoon, our
agent persuaded us to go and see one
more property that she had on her books. It
was a Mill and she uttered the fateful
words, “you need a bit of vision” - and my
heart sank.
Nevertheless, off we went to see Moulin de
Fontalbe. We got lost on the way and had a
small marital disagreement. By the time we
finally drove though the gates I was in no
mood to have vision for anything, apart
from a glass of wine.

Kitchen before...
Kitchen after....
The Mill was enormous and had been
abandoned for several years. Roofs needed
repairing, there was no kitchen or bathroom.
It felt unloved. It was in a nice spot,
but that was all. It was too big a project, I
told Greg, we should just forget it" says
Rebecca.
They returned to their hotel and discussed
the day’s viewings. Greg was very taken
with the Mill, Rebecca wasn’t, but as they
talked, she says she started to come round.
The next day was beautifully sunny and
they decided to revisit the Mill. “What a
difference a day makes. We realised that
the Mill was effectively on its own private
island, with a huge mill pond and lake, plus
forest either side. The stone walls glowed
in the sun. It was picture perfect and truly
unique. We both felt our pulses quicken
and knew that our search could be over.
What we didn’t know until it had utterly
captured our hearts was that there was no
mains water, a complicated sluice system
and an insufficient and antique electricity
supply. But, it was too late by then…”
Rebecca and Greg are now the proud
owners of Moulin De Fontalbe and say they
feel “privileged to own a beautiful property
nestled in the middle of the Dordogne
countryside, close to Saint-Avit Senieur
with its UNESCO listed medieval abbey,
picturesque villages and a long, winding
river. Everyone that we have met has been
welcoming and helpful”.
Their plan is to turn the Mill into a beautiful
home plus a 6-bedroom gite with a yoga
studio. It's an enormous project, not just
the house and gite to renovate but 16 acres
of land, forest, three fields and a quarry. In
the meantime, home is a caravan whilst the
work is ongoing. “It is tough, stressful and
incredibly expensive but it will all be worth
it in the end” says Rebecca.
“The mill is starting to share its secrets with
us and I'm looking forward to the days
when, once again, it is filled with friends,
laughter, chatter and love. Our agent found
our original brief the other day. It says,
“don’t mind a bit of painting and decorating,
but no major projects”….
Rebecca blogs about her adventures when
she has time at Fontable.com

FIND YOUR DREAM HOME IN DORDOGNE
Local estate agent Corrie Phillips of Leggett Immobillier gives an overview of Bergerac
and picks three fabulous properties for sale in the area...
On the surface Bergerac is a quiet and understated city. Look a little closer and it is not
difficult to understand what is attractive about living here. It has a temperate climate
with longer summers and cool winters, making it conducive to a more outdoor lifestyle.
There is something to do for all ages, from Go- Karting, to canoeing, wine tasting from
one of the 120 wine producers of the region , or shopping at one of several weekly
markets. If all this becomes too much, then people watching from one of the many cafés
offers a welcome rest.
With an International airport and major train station, Bergerac has excellent transport
links to the rest of France and further affield.
€140,000
Situated within close proximity to Mouleydier, and a
short stroll to the shops, with all the village facilities.
This house is ideally located. With a little tender
loving care this charming 2-bedroom house could
make an ideal holiday home or permanent home for a
young family.
Click here for more information
Large stone family house situated in the town of
Bergerac. Sitting on two plots this house has 5
bedrooms, a bathroom and a guest wc, large attic,
large basement, private garden, with an immense
double garage with the possibility to convert to an
independent lodging or commercial business.
Click here for more information
€397,000
€520,000
Exquisite old stone house with far reaching views,
renovated to an exceptional standard. Original
features have been retained, such as bread oven,
exposed stone wall, vaulted ceilings and beams.
Whilst being enhanced by modern features including
underfloor electric heating, bespoke kitchen with
granite worktops, and remote-control Velux window
blinds. It has a fabulous heated salt water pool.
Click here for more information

We’ve had a record number of enquiries about life in France in the last 12 months. It
seems that moving to France is on the minds of many and some questions come up over
and over about financial issues, after all, you want to know that you can afford to live the
dream and making sure that you take care of finances is important to getting that result.
We asked financial expert Jennie Poate at Beacon Global Wealth who is qualified to give
financial advice in both France and the UK to answer some of your questions...
If I take early retirement and move to
France? Do I need to pay the remaining
amount to get a full pension before I
move to France?
The first thing to do is check how many
years contributions you have achieved.
Bear in mind that to receive a full UK Basic
State Pension you will need 35 years full
contributions.
You can check here: www.gov.uk/checkstate-pension
required maximum may mean you are
penalised. The short answer is that if you
retire and are tax resident in France this
would mean the French authorities must
obtain information on your UK state
pension status and you won’t be penalised
for the years accrued outside of France and
in the EU.
If you work in France there are a number of
personal pension arrangements you can
make depending on whether you are
employed or self employed.
Once you have that detail you can ask the
National Insurance office about making
catch up payments which can be done as a
lump sum or regular direct debit.
If I move to France and need to work.
Do I get half a pension from the UK and
half from France?
The retirement ages may differ in each
country depending upon your age.
The UK system works on a number of years
full NI (National Insurance) contributions as
above.
The French systems works on a number of
trimestres or quarters and not reaching the
Can I have my UK pension paid in either
the UK or France if I'm living in France?
Some personal pension providers can pay
in Euros but most don’t in which case it
would have to be paid in pounds either to a
UK bank account or a French sterling
account.
The financial advisers trading under Beacon
Wealth Management are members of Nexus
Global (IFA Network). Nexus Global is a division
within Blacktower Financial Management
(International) Limited (BFMI).All approved
individual members of Nexus Global are
Appointed Representatives of BFMI. BFMI is
licenced and regulated by the Gibraltar
Financial Services Commission and bound by
their rules under licence number FSC00805B

Can I have my UK pension paid in
France and does the pension
department fx it to Euros?
UK state pensions can be paid in Euros to
your designated French bank account. The
amount will vary each month according to
the exchange rate. You will normally get
the ‘interbank’ rate of the day so no
currency company is involved taking their
share of profits.
Is there the equivalent of an ISA in
France?
Yes, it's also tax free but it is a lifetime
allowance as opposed to an annual one.
They are available in sole name only. The
rate is normally the same regardless of
which institution you use:
Livret A €22,950 0.75%
Livret Bleu €22,950 0.75%
LDD €12,000 0.75%
LEP €7,700 1.00%
Livret Jeune €1,600 1.75%
There are tax free accounts for those
saving for a mortgage and of course the
Assurance Vie offers the option for higher
risk investments to that of cash.
If you'd like to ask
Jennie a question
about life in France,
obligation free, please
get in touch at:
jennie @
bgwealthmanagement.
net
www.bgwealth.eu
The information on these pages is intended
only as an introduction only and is not
designed to offer solutions or advice. Beacon
Global Wealth Management can accept no
responsibility whatsoever for losses incurred
by acting on the information on these pages.

Secrets of
Bouillabaise
Photo: Paul Gallagher
Keith Van Sickle, author of
Life in Provence, finds out
how to make a real
bouillabaise and how this
famous fish dish got its
name...
My wife and I live part of the year in St.-
Rémy-de-Provence. We love bouillabaisse,
that magical dish that seems to capture the
spirit of Provence. So when our friend
Pascal, a retired chef, invited us over for
homemade bouillabaisse, we were quick to
accept.
Legend has it that bouillabaisse was
invented long ago by the fishermen of
Marseille. Not wanting to eat the high-class
fish that fetched the best prices, they
instead created a dish from the bony,
unappealing rockfish that no one wanted.
Bouillabaisse is made in two stages. First
comes the fish soup called, logically
enough, soupe de poisson. To make it,
rockfish are cooked with onion, fennel,
garlic, tomato and white wine “very
important” says Pascal.
boiled potatoes and other vegetables.
A bouillabaisse meal starts with a first
course of soupe de poisson, along with
little round toasts and rouille, a kind of
spicy saffron mayonnaise with lots of garlic.
The second course is the fish and
vegetables.
When we got to Pascal’s house he had
already made the soupe and had a platter
of fish marinating in olive oil and saffron,
ready to be cooked.
Pascal explained how he had made his
soupe. “I buy the cheapest fish at the
market,” he said. “They are bony and ugly
but delicious if you know how to cook
them.” I looked at the rascasse and could
see what he meant about ugly.
This mixture is seasoned to the chef’s
taste, with top-grade saffron being the
essential ingredient. Then it is ground up,
bones and all, into the richly flavored
soupe.
Meanwhile, other fish are marinated and
then cooked whole in the hot soupe. The
cooked fish are fileted and served with

“Because it will EXPLODE. I know from
experience.” Pascal pointed to the faint
saffron stains still visible on his white
kitchen walls. He explained that putting hot
liquid in a blender, then whirling it around at
high speed, increases the pressure and can
lead to disaster.
Now it was time to cook the fish. Pascal
turned up the gas burner until the soupe
came to a boil, then put in the fish and
turned down the flame. “This is the secret to
cooking the fish properly,” he said. “If you
don’t lower the temperature you will
overcook the fish.”
“It’s also where the name of the dish comes
from,” he continued. “You bring it to a boil
(bouiller in French), then lower (baisser) the
temperature.” So bouiller + baisser =
bouillabaisse.
Bottom left: Rascasse; above fishermen at Marseille
"I always use rascasse, grondin (sea robin),
congre (conger) and saint-pierre (John Dory
or Peter’s Fish),” he added. “Look at the
spot on the side of the saint-pierre, we
believe it is the thumb print of St. Peter
himself, the great fisherman.”
Pascal went on to explain that soupe de
poisson should be well seasoned. He uses
at least a dozen herbs and spices, with his
favorite being a mix of five different freshly
ground peppers.
He referred to his well-thumbed copy of La
Cuisinière Provençale, the bible of
Provençal cooking. “I always use this,” he
said, “to respect our traditions.”
“When all the ingredients for the soupe are
cooked”, he continued, “you must grind
them by hand. Never use a blender.”
“Why not?” I asked.
A few minutes later the fish was ready and
we sat down to our first course. We spread
rouille on the toasts and floated them in our
big bowls of soupe, making little islands of
garlicky deliciousness.
“Not like the frozen stuff they serve in
restaurants, eh?” asked Pascal with a sly
grin. No, not at all - it was so good I had
seconds.
Then we had the fish and potatoes with a
bit more soupe sprinkled on top. It was the
food of the gods.
As we said our goodbyes that night, Pascal
told us, “Bouillabaisse teaches us
Mediterranean history - through the dish we
learn of the diversity of fish and of spices
and of our traditions. Every time I prepare it,
it is a great moment for me to share it with
family and close friends.”
A great moment, indeed.
Keith writes at: keithvansickle.com

See Page 84 for
details of how to
enter the contest to
win a copy of Voila:
The Effortless
French Cookbook

y Barbara Pasquet-James

Find more fabulous recipes from
Sara at
Beginning French

What a roller coaster summer it has been
here in the middle of nowhere France.
My book, My Good Life in France became a best-seller on Amazon in the UK and a
hot new release on Amazon in the US in August. It was a massive surprise and I am
most enormously grateful to all who’ve bought my book – thank you so much and
especially to all those who left me such wonderful reviews. You needn’t think any of
this has gone to my head – the animals make sure of that! I had 50 ducklings born
this year and I didn’t really want any of them as I have so many ducks, chickens and
geese already. I was vigilant about collecting eggs from coops but, the sneaky ducks
hid in the fields at the bottom of the garden and then turned up followed by a trail of
babies – one of them hatched 17 eggs! I’ve managed to find new homes for most of
them because I have a plan to make.
For years I have dreamed of living in Paris, but with 6 cats, 3 dogs and around 50
birds, it’s not going to happen any time soon. I thought about taking them with me
but they belong in the country where they can run about. I do quite like the idea of
creating my own Marie-Antoinette style farm in the middle of the city of light but I’d
need to win the lottery to do that. So for now, I’m aiming for a month. Four whole
weeks to discover Paris up close and personal. It’s going to take quite a lot of
organisation and a bit of luck but that’s my dream, and I’d love it to come true next
year… so watch this space and wish me bon courage as I’m going to need it!
One of the things on my plan is to finish the renovation on the house so that
whoever house sits can do so with it looking good. I’ve been thwarted by a freak
hailstone storm which means we need a new roof as it caused plenty of damage and
put us back a few months. But we’re plodding on, rendering the walls, fitting and
painting the shutters, clearing the jungle in the front and the back, getting the roof
fixed.
I have to say living the good life has its challenges but nothing we can’t overcome
with will power and determination!