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Jeweller - March 2022

Tying the knot: Jewellers still rule on engagement jewellery Brand & Deliver: Uncovering the secret formula for a successful jewellery brand Open to buy: Comprehensive stock buying guide to kickstart 2022

Tying the knot: Jewellers still rule on engagement jewellery
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VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />

MARCH <strong>2022</strong><br />

Tying the knot<br />

JEWELLERS STILL RULE ON<br />

ENGAGEMENT JEWELLERY<br />

Brand & Deliver<br />

UNCOVERING THE SECRET FORMULA<br />

FOR A SUCCESSFUL JEWELLERY BRAND<br />

Open to buy<br />

COMPREHENSIVE STOCK<br />

BUYING GUIDE TO KICKSTART <strong>2022</strong>


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Matched fancy and unique pairs<br />

Calibrated melee in Round Brilliant and fancy-shapes<br />

Quality diamond-set jewellery<br />

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Australia is enriched with amazing treasures. Sapphire Dreams<br />

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Our Australian sapphire jewellery collection is crafted in 9ct<br />

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To achieve this level of uncompromised excellence, all sapphires<br />

pass through the hands of our skilled gem cutters to become oneof-a-kind,<br />

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ICONIC<br />

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Proudly distributed by<br />

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AS ADVERTISED IN<br />

Rings featured, clockwise from left:<br />

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Learn more at<br />

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Platinum Bands<br />

Provide security, strength, and style<br />

with eternity, anniversary, and classic<br />

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issue of The Knot magazine.


MARCH <strong>2022</strong><br />

Contents<br />

This Month<br />

Industry Facets<br />

11 Editorial<br />

12 Upfront<br />

14 News<br />

28 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Showcase<br />

24<br />

27<br />

68<br />

70<br />

10 YEARS AGO<br />

Time Machine: <strong>March</strong> 2012<br />

LEARN ABOUT GEMS<br />

Part III: Synthetic diamonds<br />

MY BENCH<br />

Nathan Kettle<br />

SOAPBOX<br />

Ian Douglas<br />

36 AN UNSHAKEABLE MOVEMENT<br />

Brilliant branding<br />

4The global jewellery industry was late to the<br />

party when it came to a consumer category driven<br />

by branding. <strong>Jeweller</strong> explores how branded<br />

jewellery continues to evolve as new ideas and an<br />

ever-changing consumer looks for new aspiration.<br />

Features<br />

30<br />

36<br />

44<br />

ENGAGEMENT EVOLUTION<br />

The change in engagement<br />

AN UNSHAKEABLE MOVEMENT<br />

The branded evolution<br />

BUSINESS OF BRANDS<br />

Through turning tides<br />

47<br />

START AFRESH STOCK SPECIAL<br />

Right and ready for <strong>2022</strong><br />

Better Your Business<br />

30 ENGAGEMENT<br />

EVOLUTION<br />

Just engaged<br />

4COVID has changed consumer behaviour<br />

towards engagement jewellery and “walking<br />

down the aisle”, but was it for better or for<br />

worse? <strong>Jeweller</strong> sheds light on an emerging<br />

market behaviour.<br />

62<br />

64<br />

65<br />

66<br />

67<br />

BUSINESS STRATEGY<br />

Quit it! BRIDGET BROWN says some social platforms just aren't right for your business.<br />

SELLING<br />

KIZER & BENDER shares six big ideas to help your jewellery sales sky-rocket.<br />

MANAGEMENT<br />

Information overload is common these days; KARYN GREENSTREET helps you manage.<br />

MARKETING & PR<br />

DENYSE DRUMMOND-DUNN gathers helpful tips from modern-day marketing gurus.<br />

LOGGED ON<br />

BETH WALKER revists the basics of digital marketing for the new year.<br />

47 START AFRESH STOCK SPECIAL<br />

Ready, set, stock!<br />

4Browse the most recent products and<br />

services compiled by <strong>Jeweller</strong> and get<br />

ready for <strong>2022</strong> the right way.<br />

FRONT COVER Duraflex Group Australia and<br />

Thomas Sabo proudly brings you the Iconic collection,<br />

a careful curation of Thomas Sabo's best-selling hero<br />

pieces from dainty charms to truly iconic jewellery<br />

designs that have been core to the brand’s DNA.<br />

The popular German brand celebrates over<br />

16 years in the Australian jewellery trade.<br />

Thomassabo.com.au<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 9


Peter W Beck has been passionately committed to the jewellery industry for 45 years.<br />

Please be assured that we are still here and we will continue to provide you with the world class products and<br />

services that you rely on. We stand beside you through this tough time and beyond.<br />

Toll Free 1800 888 585 | Email customerservice@pwbeck.com.au


Editor’s Desk<br />

Predictably unpredictable: the state of supply in <strong>2022</strong><br />

The past two years of the global pandemic revealed some interesting trends, but one stands out:<br />

lockdowns, restrictions and overall sense of impending doom did not curb consumption.<br />

ANGELA HAN explores some of the anticipated changes to the supply chain in this brave new world.<br />

Throughout history, global disasters<br />

elicited one response – practice austerity<br />

to prepare for adversity. Potatoes were<br />

planted and belts tightened as individual<br />

priorities shifted from spending to saving.<br />

Supply chains ground to a halt, but that’s<br />

because consumption also slowed, and<br />

people only opened their wallets for<br />

absolute necessities.<br />

However, this 21st century crisis impacted<br />

differently. While cities and streets emptied<br />

overnight with restrictive lockdowns,<br />

the internet teemed with traffic. From<br />

streaming a new Netflix series to buying<br />

milk or an engagement ring, our collective<br />

consumption didn’t stop – it was simply<br />

redirected. And it flourished.<br />

Highway car crashes were replaced with<br />

server crashes – additional tech resources<br />

had to be bolstered as ecommerce went<br />

into hyperdrive, and people discovered the<br />

convenience of home delivery. Couriers<br />

took over the empty streets to deliver fast<br />

food, fast furniture and fast fashion.<br />

Indeed, the total retail sales from the US<br />

Commerce Department data showed a<br />

growth rate of 14.0 per cent (an all-time<br />

high) in 2021 — and Australia’s 2020<br />

annual retail figures increased by 6.17 per<br />

cent to $349.9 billion from $329.56 billion<br />

in 2019, pre-COVID.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> reported a 4.8 per cent increase<br />

in jewellery sales this past December.<br />

We also saw retail trading figures being<br />

buoyed by luxury consumption throughout<br />

the pandemic. The watch and jewellery<br />

sector evidently experienced momentous<br />

growth – from the rising share prices of<br />

large conglomerates such as LVMH and<br />

Chow Tai Fook, to local jewellers of all<br />

sizes reporting record sales; these trying<br />

times brought surprising outcomes.<br />

Times have changed – this is a far cry<br />

from potatoes and tighter belts!<br />

But while consumption was up, supply<br />

chains took a hit. In the Insta-age where<br />

everyone wants everything yesterday,<br />

the global supply chain is poised for<br />

permanent change.<br />

Enlightenment through crisis<br />

The pandemic exposed critical supply<br />

chain risks that exist in the vast globalised<br />

network from which have been benefiting<br />

for decades.<br />

Indeed, with the recent rise of geopolitical<br />

conflict, sanctions, inflation and freight<br />

costs, combined with the complexities<br />

of the pandemic, businesses have had<br />

to quickly embrace new operational<br />

procedures to remain competitive.<br />

The affordable logistics we’ve grown to<br />

depend on for our deliveries will no longer<br />

be a ‘given’, especially as delivery demand<br />

and consumption is set to increase, forcing<br />

manufacturers to move production closer<br />

to customers who are looking for a more<br />

‘local’ solution.<br />

For example, international shipping<br />

costs for a 40-foot container increased<br />

on average from US$1,331 at the end of<br />

February 2020, to US$11,109 by mid-<br />

September 2021. Coupled with worldwide<br />

labour shortages, the problems plaguing<br />

the supply chain was highlighted initially<br />

through failing logistics.<br />

Moreover, restrictive trade policies became<br />

a roadblock for many businesses that<br />

relied on imports, which forced companies<br />

to reassess how much of their business<br />

relied on overseas operations.<br />

Enter stage right: traditional brick-andmortar<br />

stores. Consumers that had been<br />

habituated into purchasing online found<br />

that prices were no longer competitive<br />

after increased freight costs and the<br />

inconvenience of unreliable delivery time.<br />

It was quicker to drive down to the local<br />

shopping centre and gain immediate<br />

access to the same item for less.<br />

The consumer’s focus is no longer about<br />

getting the cheapest item but rather on<br />

the quality and speed of delivery where<br />

they can happily hand over money to<br />

someone they trust.<br />

Recognising that supply chains will not<br />

return to the same way before COVID is<br />

critical to moving forward. For example,<br />

logistics companies are experiencing<br />

higher costs and salaries from the tight<br />

labour market. In response to these<br />

changes, businesses need to consider<br />

carrying additional essential inventory and<br />

diversify their supply chains by sourcing<br />

from alternative manufacturers that are<br />

closer to their own consumer base.<br />

In the short-term, business costs are<br />

anticipated to increase as we navigate<br />

the long-term changes in the supply<br />

chain. Good groundwork today will cost<br />

businesses less tomorrow.<br />

The big question<br />

for <strong>2022</strong> is: how<br />

is COVID-19<br />

is going to<br />

continue to<br />

affect supply<br />

chains, and<br />

what are the<br />

solutions? Well,<br />

like everything<br />

in life, it’s<br />

a matter of<br />

finding a perfect<br />

balance.<br />

Looking for solutions closer to home looks<br />

to be a good starting point, because for now<br />

it looks like consumers prefer to 'pop to the<br />

shops' than 'hop online'.<br />

A Yin and Yang solution<br />

The big question for <strong>2022</strong> is: how is<br />

COVID-19 is going to continue to affect<br />

supply chains, and what are the solutions?<br />

Well, like everything in life, it’s a matter of<br />

finding a perfect balance.<br />

Businesses have become acutely aware of<br />

their interdependent reliance on overseas<br />

suppliers to supply critical components<br />

of finished products. While global supply<br />

chains will continue to exist, there will be a<br />

lot more pressure for local involvement and<br />

content in products.<br />

For example, with the ongoing trade wars,<br />

many companies have had to adopt a ‘China<br />

plus one’ strategy. It’s a fact that China<br />

remains a manufacturing giant, and thus this<br />

approach is adopted by businesses wanting<br />

to slowly reduce their reliance on Chinese<br />

manufacturing without cutting the country<br />

out completely. All the while they continue<br />

to ‘balance’ their investment across other<br />

regions such as India, Indonesia, Thailand<br />

and Vietnam, and may also diversify into<br />

local manufacturing options.<br />

However, given the cost of local labour,<br />

manufacturers and distributors will need<br />

to increasingly rely on automated processes<br />

involving technology such as blockchain and<br />

artificial intelligence.<br />

As tech bolsters productivity for evolving<br />

supply chains, it also demands a skilled<br />

workforce and investment into new<br />

technologies to truly harness the benefits.<br />

Low-cost labour will be replaced with<br />

high-skilled labour to help manage<br />

businesses efficiently.<br />

The old is gone, and the new has come –<br />

tired cheap manufacturing and traditional<br />

supply chains are over. To remain ahead of<br />

the problem, businesses need to reevaluate<br />

their workforce; if low-cost labour is the<br />

only solution to the supply chain problem,<br />

the future looks bleak. A skilled workforce<br />

and business leaders who know how to<br />

cultivate talent is essential to tackling the<br />

issues ahead.<br />

After all, humans drive technology and<br />

innovation – not the other way around.<br />

Angela Han<br />

Publisher<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 11


Upfront<br />

#Instagram hashtags to follow<br />

Alpha Order<br />

#antiquebrooches<br />

19,796 POSTS<br />

Do you need to take<br />

advantage of the<br />

#tiktokmademebuyit<br />

movement?<br />

#australianjewellerydesigner<br />

22,480 POSTS<br />

#bridalbling<br />

38,756 POSTS<br />

#jewellerylove<br />

982,036 POSTS<br />

#jewellerytrends<br />

367,672 POSTS<br />

HISTORIC GEMSTONE<br />

The Dresden Green<br />

4This rare 40.7-carat, Type IIa natural green<br />

diamond is said to have originated in India. Its<br />

earliest reference can be found in a London news<br />

article back in 1722 mentioning that Marcus<br />

Moses, a famous London diamond merchant,<br />

had presented King George I with the famous<br />

find. It was then said to be valued at '£10,000'.<br />

The Dresden Green probably weighed over<br />

100-carats as a rough elongated unbroken<br />

stone, since green diamonds rarely occur as<br />

cleavages. The stone’s green colour is due to its<br />

natural exposure to radioactive materials.<br />

Digital Brainwave<br />

#jewelrydesign<br />

9,917,468 POSTS<br />

#layerednecklaces<br />

253,305 POSTS<br />

#neckmess<br />

121,343 POSTS<br />

#pendantoftheday<br />

42,603 POSTS<br />

#zodiacjewelry<br />

56,454 POSTS<br />

The diamond has been displayed in Dresden<br />

Castle, in the capital of the German state Saxony for<br />

the last 200 years. It narrowly missed the November 2019 jewel<br />

theft as it was on loan to New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art.<br />

4TikTok has 689 million monthly active users<br />

worldwide and has proven to be an effective<br />

sales hub for retailers to discover, connect and<br />

engage with potential customers, particularly<br />

the younger Gen-Z crowd aged between 10 to<br />

29 that make up 62% of the apps' users.<br />

Users have showcased products by creating<br />

“TikTok made me buy it” videos, one of many<br />

tags for businesses and brands to engage<br />

with users. User-generated content often has<br />

more impact because it isn't crafted by a large<br />

corporation or a marketing team. Videos also<br />

act as tutorials for potential consumers.<br />

Trend Spotting<br />

4Wedding trends have changed over<br />

time – from wedding dresses and veils,<br />

flawless and white is no longer the<br />

default selection. Coloured gems and<br />

included diamonds have taken the<br />

spotlight as couples are embracing<br />

life's little imperfections and<br />

celebrating diversity. Salt and pepper<br />

diamonds in less conventional shapes<br />

are a budget-friendly and meaningful<br />

alternative to flawless white stones.<br />

Campaign Watch<br />

4Parisian jewellery brand Messika<br />

unveiled its latest collection by<br />

featuring Kendall Jenner as the new<br />

campaign ambassador. Founder Valérie<br />

Messika wanted to capture an image<br />

of 'an alpha woman with a mysterious<br />

and hypnotic aura' to represent her<br />

new range. Messika is headquartered<br />

in Paris and was founded in 2005.<br />

The brand is available in 50 countries<br />

across 400 points of sale worldwide.<br />

Image credit: Instagram @alexisrusselljewelry<br />

Image credit: Messika<br />

Stranger Things<br />

Weird, wacky and wonderful<br />

jewellery news from around the world<br />

Ring of Destruction<br />

4British jeweller Hannah Mossman<br />

Moore of Jean London was stalked<br />

for four years by a man she didn't<br />

want to date, which led her to create<br />

oversized knuckleduster cocktail<br />

rings that have attracted celebrities<br />

like Adele and Rihanna. She told<br />

The Sunday Times that her creation<br />

represents 'jewellery as armour',<br />

saying that her trauma has helped<br />

her rethink the way she designs.<br />

Gladiators in Ancient Rome also<br />

wore similar gloved rings for<br />

advantage in battle.<br />

Sink your teeth into it<br />

4Melbourne jeweller Jacqui<br />

Williams uses the teeth and<br />

hair of dead people to create<br />

commemorative jewellery for<br />

grieving loved ones. Her business<br />

Grave Metallum aims to help people<br />

deal with their loss by immortalising<br />

a piece of the deceased into a<br />

custom-made trinket that can be<br />

worn close. Some odd requests have<br />

included a bullet that was used for<br />

suicide and an old IUD.<br />

Musical Diamonds<br />

4Russian mining company Alrosa<br />

introduced a groundbreaking<br />

nanomarking technology in July 2021,<br />

as a way to guarantee its diamonds'<br />

provenance. Invisible to the eye and<br />

readable only via a scanner, rough<br />

and polished stones are marked with<br />

non-invasive lasers on a scale so<br />

small that it involves imprinting on the<br />

internal crystal lattice of the diamond.<br />

Nanomarks can be embedded with a<br />

large amount of data such as music<br />

and photos.<br />

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />

Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd<br />

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com<br />

Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Journalist Richard Chiu editorial@jewellermagazine.com • Production Coordinator Lauren McKinnon art@befindanmedia.com<br />

Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com<br />

Copyright All material appearing in <strong>Jeweller</strong> is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd<br />

strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information<br />

believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to<br />

the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities<br />

arising from the published material.


EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND BY<br />

AU +61 2 8543 4600 NZ +64 9 480 2211 | designaaccessories.com.au


News<br />

Burgundy Diamonds<br />

acquires 350 carats of<br />

Ellendale yellow diamonds<br />

UNOde50 wins Fashion <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Brand of the Year<br />

Australian diamond exploration company Burgundy<br />

Diamond Mines has acquired a parcel of fancy yellow<br />

rough diamonds from the Ellendale mine in West<br />

Kimberley.<br />

The stones will be cut and polished at its Perth facility.<br />

The parcel, which contained approximately 350 carats<br />

with each piece weighing around two to five carats,<br />

was purchased from an Antwerp-based diamantaire<br />

who acquired the stones from its former owner, Gem<br />

Diamonds.<br />

The diamonds were mined from Ellendale in 2009.<br />

Burgundy also purchased a smaller parcel of<br />

approximately 150 carats of intense yellow rough<br />

diamonds from the Arctic Canadian Diamond Company<br />

in September 2021, which was mined from the Misery<br />

Pipe at Ekati.<br />

“The purchase of these two parcels of rough diamonds<br />

represents continued execution of our strategy to<br />

produce revenue from cutting and polishing third-party<br />

rough diamonds, while building towards our own inhouse<br />

production,” Peter Ravenscroft, chief executive<br />

officer and managing director, Burgundy said in a<br />

statement.<br />

He pointed out that the diamonds from the Ellendale<br />

parcel will be an “added advantage of establishing<br />

our processes in preparation for our own production,<br />

and also showcasing these highly-prized fancy yellow<br />

diamonds as part of our ultra-luxury brand offering.”<br />

Burgundy acquired the dormant Ellendale Mine from<br />

Gibb River Diamonds in <strong>March</strong> last year, 16 months<br />

after Gibb was granted exclusive mining and exploration<br />

leases by the West Australian government.<br />

The acquisition agreement included a state-of-the-art<br />

bulk sampling facility at Ellendale by Burgundy for onsite<br />

production as mining operations are expected to<br />

resume at the end of <strong>2022</strong>.<br />

Opened in 1976, Ellendale – which is located 135km east<br />

of Derby in the West Kimberley – was at one point the<br />

world’s largest producer of fancy yellow diamonds and<br />

had an exclusive supply agreement with Tiffany & Co.<br />

However, it ceased production in 2015 when previous<br />

owner Kimberley Diamond Company went into<br />

liquidation.<br />

Spanish jewellery brand UNOde50 launched in Australia last year.<br />

Spanish jewellery brand UNOde50 which<br />

launched in Australia last year, was recently<br />

awarded UK Fashion <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Brand of the<br />

Year in the PJ Awards 2021 hosted by industry<br />

magazine Professional <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

The brand earned the distinction for its unique<br />

and stylish designs and is backed by its strong<br />

2021 full-year sales performance in the UK<br />

market.<br />

According to Ken Abbott, director, Timesupply,<br />

UNOde50 continues to enjoy a strong “following”<br />

in the Australian and New Zealand markets as<br />

preparations are underway for the launching of<br />

its Autumn <strong>2022</strong> collection called Origins.<br />

“There has been an excellent reception to this<br />

brand,” Abbott said, noting that UNOde50 is<br />

“very well known in Europe and the US” and are<br />

among the popular jewellery pieces purchased<br />

by travellers where available.<br />

Traditionally, the brand highlights two major<br />

collection releases annually and Origins is the<br />

first to be launched this year, followed by several<br />

smaller releases throughout the year.<br />

Pandora has launched a comic-inspired<br />

jewellery collection featuring characters from<br />

Disney’s Marvel Cinematic Universe.<br />

The Marvel X Pandora range showcases<br />

sterling silver necklaces, rings and bracelets,<br />

which can be paired with charms influenced<br />

by Marvel’s popular comic characters, The<br />

Avengers, along with several iconic Marvel<br />

symbols.<br />

According to Filippo Ficarelli creative director<br />

Pandora, “We were fascinated by The Avengers’<br />

heroism, strength and vulnerability. These<br />

heroes encourage us to use our voices and<br />

“Apart from being handmade in Spain, UNOde50<br />

is all about the design,” Abbott said, explaining,<br />

“the bold and innovative designs with a Boho<br />

style are ideal for those wanting to make a<br />

statement with their jewellery.”<br />

It’s the brand’s “uniqueness” that contributes to<br />

its appeal to certain types of clients and highprofile<br />

celebrities.<br />

“We currently have Australian and New Zealand<br />

stockists but realise that the artistic designs of<br />

UNOde50 will only suit those stores looking for<br />

something unique and eye-catching with this<br />

Internationally-renowned Spanish brand.<br />

“UNODe50 has a huge international following<br />

with a massive 300k following on Instagram and<br />

405k likes on Facebook, so momentum in our<br />

countries is increasing with customers realising<br />

it is now available instore in Australia and New<br />

Zealand,” Abbott added.<br />

Established in 1997, Timesupply is a leading<br />

fashion jewellery and watch distributor catering<br />

to European brands.<br />

Pandora launches Marvel jewellery collection<br />

harness our powers, without hiding our<br />

weaknesses, to create the world we want to<br />

see.”<br />

Pandora collaborated with Marvel artists to<br />

create comic-accurate details of characters<br />

and symbols such as Iron Man, Black Panther,<br />

Hulk, Black Widow, and several symbols such<br />

as Captain America’s shield, Thor’s Mjolnir,<br />

Infinity Gauntlet and Infinity Stones.<br />

The collection also features a digital application<br />

that will allow customers to go on adventures<br />

and an interactive guide on how to collect the<br />

jewellery pieces.<br />

14 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


News<br />

Stellar jewellery sales sees strong uptrend; indicates rebound from COVID<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y sales in Australia have been on a strong<br />

rebound post-COVID lockdowns marked by a<br />

consistent growth trajectory by ending 2021 and<br />

opening <strong>2022</strong> with stellar sales figures. Retailers<br />

will hope that the trend will continue throughout<br />

<strong>2022</strong>.<br />

Overall sales in December maintained a steady<br />

uptrend based on previous forecasts as overall<br />

sales dollars increased by 1.8 per cent compared<br />

with the same period in 2020, despite a decline in<br />

diamond jewellery sales, according to Retail Edge<br />

Consultant’s December 2021 report.<br />

Diamond precious metal jewellery became the sole<br />

outlier for December sales, which decreased by 8<br />

per cent, compared with 2020 but still maintained a<br />

significant positive two-year difference (December<br />

2019) at 38 per cent.<br />

The sale of comparative units declined by 5 per cent<br />

when measured against December 2020, however,<br />

there was a 3.9 per cent increase when compared<br />

with December 2019.<br />

According to Mike Dyer, sales manager, Retail Edge,<br />

“the indicators pointed to a stellar performance<br />

for jewellery retail in December and that's what<br />

happened, but there was good growth across most<br />

of the product categories.”<br />

He explained the figures “indicate a strong<br />

consumer focus on buying something of<br />

significance that can be treasured and enjoyed.”<br />

Comparative average sales based on inventory<br />

continued to increase by 8 per cent from $161<br />

to $174 compared with December 2020, while<br />

it significantly went up by 26 per cent from the<br />

December 2019 figure of $138.<br />

Sales dollars for colour stone precious metal<br />

jewellery was up by 23 per cent compared with 2020<br />

and a significant two-year difference at 34 per cent.<br />

The same trend was seen for non-stone precious<br />

metal jewellery, which increased by 9 per cent<br />

compared with December 2020, and a significant<br />

two-year difference at 59 per cent.<br />

Sales of silver and alternative metal jewellery also<br />

increased by 13 per cent when compared with<br />

December 2020 and a much more significant rise at<br />

41 per cent based on a two-year (December 2019)<br />

difference.<br />

As expected during the holiday seasons, sales<br />

dollars for laybys saw a decline by 18 per cent as<br />

the pieces are collected to be given as gifts.<br />

Similarly, revenue for services declined by 43.9<br />

per cent and special orders also followed suit by<br />

dropping at 21.4 per cent.<br />

After a strong December 2021 performance, a<br />

slight decline in jewellery sales was seen in January<br />

revealing a new pattern of consumer behaviour<br />

leaning towards value and suitability rather than<br />

cost.<br />

Nonetheless, the figures were much better<br />

compared to the periods of COVID-induced sales<br />

slump.<br />

Upward trend for jewellery sales in Australia shows a stellar<br />

and consistent recovery based on a two-year sales performance<br />

trajectory.<br />

The Retail Edge report for 1 to 31 January, showed<br />

that overall sales dollars declined by 1.6 per<br />

cent compared with January 2021 but revealed<br />

a relatively strong increase by 19 per cent when<br />

measured against January 2020.<br />

Comparative units sold decreased by 10 per<br />

cent when compared with January 2021 and a<br />

similar decline of 10 per cent based on a two-year<br />

difference (January 2020).<br />

However, comparative average sales based on<br />

inventory saw an increase by 9 per cent ($201) when<br />

compared with January 2021 ($185), which also<br />

represented a very significant increase by 32 per<br />

cent ($153) based on a two-year difference (January<br />

2020).<br />

Dyer said the sales figures are “good to note”<br />

explaining that “this pattern appears to indicate that<br />

consumers are making buying decisions around<br />

value and suitability rather than how little [they] can<br />

get away with spending”.<br />

Many of the product categories supported Dyer’s<br />

observation with the increase in sales dollars, led<br />

by diamond set precious metal jewellery which was<br />

up by 7 per cent compared with January 2021 and a<br />

significant increase of 44 per cent based on a twoyear<br />

difference (January 2020).<br />

Comparative average sales based on inventory<br />

have seen an increase by 9 per cent ($201) when<br />

compared with January 2021 ($185), which also<br />

represented a very significant increase by 32 per<br />

cent ($153) based on a two-year difference (January<br />

2020).<br />

Next in line is silver and alternative metal jewellery<br />

with sales dollars up by 5 per cent compared with<br />

January 2021, but much higher at 22 per cent when<br />

measured against January 2020.<br />

Retail Edge’s data is gathered from its POS<br />

software across more than 400 Australian<br />

independent retail jewellery stores. It is intended<br />

to present a representative sample of the wider<br />

jewellery industry.<br />

MORE BREAKING NEWS<br />

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 15


News<br />

Alrosa and De Beers reportedly hike<br />

prices of rough diamonds<br />

Two of the world’s leading diamond producers have reportedly raised prices<br />

of rough diamonds in January to start the <strong>2022</strong> trading season.<br />

According to various news reports, London-based mining company De<br />

Beers and Russian miner Alrosa have raised prices of rough diamonds by 8<br />

and 10 per cent, respectively, based on diamond market trading results.<br />

Industry sources who requested anonymity told Bloomberg that De Beers<br />

has raised prices by 5 to 8 per cent with a higher increase ranging between<br />

15 to 20 per cent for “smaller, cheaper stones.”<br />

The company, reputed to be the world’s second-largest diamond producer<br />

by volume, has raised prices of rough diamonds throughout 2021 as part<br />

of its recovery measures from losses incurred due to the closure of mining<br />

operations at the onset of COVID-19.<br />

To date, De Beers has neither confirmed nor denied the alleged price hike.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> reported in August 2021 that the company had posted a “profit<br />

rebound” for the first six months of the year where revenue more than<br />

doubled compared to the same period in 2020.<br />

The rebound, based on a statement from the company, was “driven by<br />

robust rough diamond demand as the midstream pulled through stocks in<br />

response to the recovery in consumer demand.”<br />

In another report by <strong>Jeweller</strong> in October last year, De Beers announced its<br />

rough diamond production increased by 28 per cent to 9.2 million carats,<br />

driven by the sustained demand for rough diamonds to address the demand<br />

for polished diamond jewellery in the US and China.<br />

Similarly, Alrosa has increased rough diamond prices by around 10 per cent<br />

amid a shortage in supply, according to a report from Rapaport News.<br />

Anonymous sources dealing with the Russian miner claimed the price<br />

hikes were attributed to a “shortage of rough in the market. So, each<br />

manufacturer is chasing rough.”<br />

High-quality stones reportedly went up by as much as 5 to 7 per cent,<br />

averaging between 8 to 10 per cent, while smaller, lower-quality stones<br />

increased by around 12 to 18 per cent, according to the source.<br />

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The reported increase was also driven by strong demand in the US for<br />

polished stones during the Christmas holiday.<br />

In November 2021, <strong>Jeweller</strong> reported that Alrosa expected to increase<br />

output for rough diamonds this year to address demand in key markets<br />

worldwide.<br />

The company has lifted yield forecasts in 2021 and also adjusted its <strong>2022</strong><br />

projections by 5 per cent or 1 million carats with the reopening of mine<br />

sites that were closed during the height of COVID-related lockdowns and<br />

restrictions.<br />

De Beers and Alrosa are two of the biggest suppliers of rough diamonds<br />

worldwide.<br />

(02) 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


News<br />

Fancy 1.13-carat diamond resembles Apple logo<br />

of the diamond “is a welcome addition to the<br />

wide range of novelty cut diamonds currently<br />

available in the trade.”<br />

Michael Hill store ram raided<br />

Thieves have stolen a still undetermined value of<br />

jewellery in a brazen 3am ram raid at a Michael<br />

Hill store in Perth’s Baldivis Shopping Centre.<br />

A 1.13-carat diamond submitted for GIA grading<br />

Advances in technology have a way of making<br />

the unthinkable possible and such is the case of<br />

a novelty cut diamond that strikingly resembles<br />

the iconic Apple brand logo.<br />

A 1.13-carat fancy yellow diamond was taken<br />

to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA)<br />

for colour origin and identification service to<br />

determine the stone’s authenticity.<br />

The stone - dubbed the “Apple” diamond -<br />

was featured in the GIA’s journal Gems and<br />

Gemology for its unique cutting style.<br />

“The diamond was cut in the shape of a bitten<br />

apple and bore a striking resemblance to the<br />

iconic Apple logo found on Apple Inc products,”<br />

one of the authors said, noting that the shape<br />

According to the authors, the maker could have<br />

chosen the ‘Apple’ cutting style as a novelty and<br />

retained the stone’s weight due to its “significant<br />

windowing” properties to allow for “more<br />

efficient light return”.<br />

Modern technology has paved the way for<br />

jewellery designers to be more creative with<br />

designs and cutting styles that ensure the<br />

efficient light return and weight retention<br />

properties of diamonds or fashion stones to<br />

resemble other items.<br />

The GIA has also seen similar uniquely shaped<br />

diamonds submitted for colour origin and<br />

identification service, such as a 0.37-carat<br />

sword-shaped yellowish brown diamond and a<br />

“seated Buddha”.<br />

Established in 1931, the GIA is one of the leading<br />

authorities on diamonds, colour gemstones<br />

and pearls. It is a non-profit institute dedicated<br />

to education and research in gemmology<br />

and jewellery arts, as well as setting global<br />

standards on diamond and gemstone quality to<br />

help protect consumers.<br />

Police are still looking into the identities of the<br />

suspects who rammed a vehicle into the centre’s<br />

front doors.<br />

They smashed the front display windows of the<br />

jewellery store with a pry bar and grabbed pieces<br />

of jewellery before driving away.<br />

The incident caused extensive damage to<br />

the shopping centre, both inside and out, as<br />

neighbouring retail stores also closed shop to<br />

make way for an ongoing investigation.<br />

According to one of the affected tenants at the<br />

shopping centre, security has been an issue in<br />

the establishment where a previous break-in<br />

also occurred in October 2021.<br />

Investigators are following leads regarding<br />

any information on a four-wheel-drive darkcoloured<br />

vehicle that was spotted in the area<br />

around the time of the incident.<br />

From the second half of 2020 to the first half<br />

of 2021, around seven burglaries have been<br />

reported for Michael Hill stores throughout<br />

New Zealand.


News<br />

Alex and Ani gets new CEO to jumpstart the ailing company after legal case<br />

Former Pandora executive Scott Burger will be the<br />

new CEO of ailing jewellery company Alex and Ani<br />

just a few months after it filed for bankruptcy in<br />

June 2021.<br />

The appointment was confirmed by Lyndon Lea,<br />

co-founder and managing director of Londonbased<br />

Lion Capital, which owns 65 per cent of Alex<br />

and Ani, after a US court granted the company’s<br />

Chapter 11 filing.<br />

Burger was the president of Pandora-North<br />

America from 2007 to 2018 and is currently the CEO<br />

of sleep products and mattress company Classic<br />

Brands based in Maryland. Lea will assume the<br />

board chairmanship.<br />

Burger is the chairman and member of Alex and<br />

Ani’s board since it filed for bankruptcy and will<br />

replace Robert Trabucco who served as the interim<br />

CEO since 2019 and chief restructuring officer<br />

throughout the Chapter 11 proceedings.<br />

In August 2019, Alex and Ani became embroiled in a<br />

legal battle with Bank of America (BA), claiming the<br />

lender misclassified a payment in order to push the<br />

company to default on a $US170 million loan.<br />

The company’s cash flow has been severely<br />

disrupted and lost access to its credit line with BA<br />

having close to $US16 million ($AU23 million) in<br />

outstanding payments on its books. It was also<br />

unable to purchase seasonal inventory, which, it<br />

has alleged, lead to a steep decline in sales.”<br />

In September 2019 a new debt structure was<br />

finalised with its syndicate of lenders, led by BA.<br />

The restructuring called for founder and<br />

CEO Carolyn Rafaelian to step down from<br />

the management of the company and for her<br />

investment vehicle, the Alex and Ani Pledge Co.,<br />

to divest its controlling interest.<br />

The company's majority stakeholder, Lion Capital,<br />

then installed Trabucco, the former chief financial<br />

officer of Signet Jewelers, replacing Rafaelian as<br />

CEO.<br />

Alex and Ani had a brief stint in Australia, having<br />

launched in December 2015 under the Karin<br />

Adcock-owned House of Brands (HOB) and just a<br />

little over two years closed its doors due to financial<br />

and legal issues that hounded the US-based<br />

company.<br />

The company withdrew from the Australian and<br />

New Zealand markets starting with its Westfield<br />

Fountain Gate flagship store and eight kiosks<br />

across NSW, Victoria, Western Australia and South<br />

Australia were subsequently closed. It had around<br />

100 retail stockists.<br />

Experience Unmatched Service & Reliability<br />

Precious Metals<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Production<br />

REFINING | METALS | CASTING | CAD/CAM | FINDINGS<br />

1300 984 751<br />

sales@chemgold.com | www.chemgold.com<br />

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Sydney: Unit 37, 34-36 Ralph St, Alexandria 2015<br />

Melbourne: 1406/227 Collins St, Melbourne 3000


News<br />

Chanel’s Bijoux de Diamants 55.55-carat diamond necklace is “fully transformable”<br />

To celebrate the 90th anniversary of fashion<br />

designer Coco Chanel’s Bijoux de Diamants, the<br />

Paris-based fashion house unveiled an opulent<br />

55.55-carat diamond necklace that is “fully<br />

transformable” into a brooch or bracelet.<br />

The signature piece is called Allure Céleste for<br />

the brand’s ‘1932’ collection - the year Bijoux<br />

de Diamants presented its first high jewellery<br />

pieces by Chanel.<br />

Chanel's signature piece, the Allure Céleste<br />

“Gabrielle Chanel had a visionary approach to<br />

jewellery. She had the idea of creating the first<br />

high jewellery collection in history to revolve<br />

around one overarching theme – the symbols<br />

of her universe: celestial shapes and couture,”<br />

Marianne Etchebarne, global head of watches<br />

and fine jewellery product marketing, Chanel<br />

explained to SCMP.<br />

The necklace is made of round-cut diamonds<br />

with a 55.55-carat intense blue oval sapphire<br />

“moon” and an 8.05-carat pear-cut diamond<br />

“comet” for its centrepieces. The halos can be<br />

formed into brooches and the centre diamonds<br />

can be shaped into a bracelet.<br />

According to Patrice Leguéreau, director, Chanel<br />

Jewelry Creation Studio, the design symbolises<br />

the distinct celestial bodies - the sun, moon, and<br />

comet – to harmonise the brand’s message and<br />

“return to the essence of 1932”.<br />

“Every heavenly body shines with its own light. I<br />

have given figurative expression to the shimmer<br />

of the comet, the halo of the moon, and the<br />

radiance of the sun. These graphic motifs<br />

amplify the brilliance of the jewels,” Leguéreau<br />

explained.<br />

The ‘1932’ collection features an array of 81<br />

pieces made of colour gemstones, including<br />

sapphires, yellow diamonds, opals, rubies,<br />

spinels and tanzanites, of which 15 pieces are<br />

transformable similar to the Allure Céleste<br />

necklace.<br />

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MILLENNIUM CHAIN<br />

P: 03 9650 5955 | E: sales@millenniumchain.com.au<br />

www.millenniumchain.com.au


News<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s to supply<br />

COVID test kits to members<br />

Australia’s largest jewellery group Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s has<br />

announced it will acquire rapid antigen test (RAT) kits to help ensure<br />

COVID-related measures are in place and maintain continuity of<br />

business operations among its members.<br />

The RAT kits were sourced overseas and the Therapeutic Goods<br />

Administration has approved their reliability. Each member will have<br />

the option to order packs of 10 or 20 kits, which are expected to arrive<br />

in late February.<br />

According to Colin Pocklington, managing director, Nationwide<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s “In early December 2021 we recognised that over the next<br />

six months or more, employers would need to provide staff with the<br />

rapid antigen tests to assist in managing staffing levels around Covid<br />

infections, and close contacts. Initially, we purchased a quantity of tests<br />

for staff in our office.”<br />

He noted there has been a rising demand for more tests on staff<br />

and close contacts due to the rise of COVID and with “the significant<br />

difficulty in obtaining tests in many areas, we decided that we needed<br />

to assist our members.”<br />

The group has already ordered a second shipment as orders for<br />

the first batch exceeded expectations within hours after the tests’<br />

availability was advertised to members.<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s is the largest jewellery group in Australasia. It<br />

has more than 400 members across Australia, New Zealand and Fiji.<br />

Australian opal highlights Year of Tiger<br />

commemorative coins<br />

The Perth Mint has released its Australian Opal Lunar Series to<br />

commemorate the Year of the Tiger (<strong>2022</strong>) using authentic Australian opal<br />

for its centrepiece.<br />

The Mint has limited production to 5,000 $1-coins and each coin was minted<br />

using 1 ounce of 99.99 per cent silver. The commemorative coins were<br />

issued as legal tender based on the Australian Currency Act of 1965.<br />

They are enclosed in a clear-lid case and each coin comes with a certificate<br />

of authenticity.<br />

The collection was collaboratively designed by Royal Mint UK designer and<br />

engraver Jody Clark for the coin’s obverse and Perth Mint designer Jennifer<br />

McKenna for the reverse side.<br />

“We knew the tiger was coming, so you just go wild and get your concepts<br />

down on paper. When you go down the rabbit hole of all the [lunar] art and<br />

all the style, and the history of it, it’s super fascinating,” McKenna said.<br />

The coins – available in gold and silver designs and finishes - are part of the<br />

third Australian Lunar Series III collection and feature an animal from the<br />

Chinese Zodiac signs.<br />

E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199


WORLD RANKINGS OF JEWELLERY<br />

INDUSTRY PUBLICATIONS<br />

As at 31 December 2021 <strong>Jeweller</strong> was ranked 54,878, in the world,<br />

well ahead of other jewellery industry titles in more populous<br />

countries. For example, the US magazines JCK, National Jeweler,<br />

and Instore ranked 82,055, 134,498, and 238,570 respectively, even<br />

though the population of the US is much larger than Australia.<br />

POSITION PUBLICATION COUNTRY<br />

WORLD<br />

RANKING<br />

1 <strong>Jeweller</strong> Australia 54,878<br />

2 JCK USA 82,055<br />

3 National Jeweler USA 134,498<br />

4 Instore Magazine USA 238,570<br />

5 Diamond World India 256,670<br />

6 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 269,464<br />

7 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Net Asia Hong Kong 307,988<br />

8 Professional <strong>Jeweller</strong> UK 580,385<br />

9 The Jewelry Magazine India 613,901<br />

10 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Outlook UK 692,146<br />

11 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Business Canada 745,214<br />

12 Art of <strong>Jeweller</strong>y India 769,354<br />

Leaders and numbers<br />

have one thing in common...<br />

13 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y World Australia 1,087,006<br />

14 Solitaire Magazine Singapore 1,142,751<br />

15 Indian <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 1,203,543<br />

16 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> Magazine UK 1,305,323<br />

17 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Focus UK 1,846,557<br />

18 Preziosa Magazine Italy 2,198,671<br />

19 The New <strong>Jeweller</strong> UAE / India 2,745,417<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> has been the leading voice of the Australian and New Zealand jewellery<br />

industries for 25 years, and today we rank #1 in the world.<br />

Alexa, the independent global ranking system for measuring website traffic and<br />

readership, now ranks jewellermagazine.com as the most widely read industry<br />

publication in the world – by far!<br />

Better still, the daily time spent on jewellermagazine.com averages 29 minutes, which<br />

far exceeds all other international publications, which average only 2–3 minutes per<br />

visitor. Moreover, our page views is miles ahead of all other industry publications.<br />

Moreover, <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s social media presence dominates and our eMags boast more<br />

than 12.3 million reads.<br />

The numbers speak for themselves - follow the leader, and follow the readers too!<br />

20 Canadian <strong>Jeweller</strong> Canada 3,726,881<br />

21 The Retail Jeweler USA 4,158,087<br />

22 Gold Book Magazine Turkey 4,942,352<br />

23 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Monthly UK 5,386,955<br />

24 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Network South Africa 6,005,766<br />

25 Bangkok Gems & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Thailand NO DATA<br />

26 Hong Kong <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Magazine Hong Kong NO DATA<br />

27 Jewel Trendz India NO DATA<br />

28 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Time New Zealand NO DATA<br />

29 Solitaire International Singapore NO DATA<br />

POSITION<br />

TRADING PLATFORM /<br />

PUBLICATION<br />

COUNTRY<br />

WORLD<br />

RANKING<br />

1 Rapaport Magazine* USA 48,447<br />

2 Idex* Israel 84,120<br />

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />

Denotes titles connected to diamond trading platforms / publication


NUMBER OF PAGES VIEWED BY READERS<br />

TIME SPENT ON JEWELLERY WEBSITES<br />

BOUNCE RATE / PAGE 'STICKINESS’<br />

Page Views is the number of times a reader visits any page<br />

on a website. A higher Page View figure the better, because it<br />

means readers are more engaged in the content. <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s<br />

Page View count of 22 leads all websites while most others<br />

can only record a single Page View before the reader leaves.<br />

Time-on-Page is the average time a reader spends on a page<br />

while Time-On-Site is how long they spend on the site each<br />

day. <strong>Jeweller</strong> leads the world with a Daily Time of 29.6 minutes,<br />

while most other publications only manage 1-2 minutes. The<br />

more time spent on a website, the better the global ranking.<br />

The Bounce Rate measures the percentage of visits that<br />

consist of only a single page view. It indicates the percentage<br />

of readers that land on a website, and immediately leave<br />

(‘bounce off’) meaning a low bounce rate is optimal. Alexa<br />

records <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s Bounce Rate at less than 23 per cent.<br />

POSITION PUBLICATION COUNTRY PAGE VIEWS<br />

POSITION PUBLICATION COUNTRY<br />

DAILY TIME<br />

(IN MINUTES)<br />

POSITION PUBLICATION COUNTRY<br />

BOUNCE<br />

RATE<br />

1 <strong>Jeweller</strong> Australia 22.00<br />

2 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 9.00<br />

3 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Net Asia Hong Kong 3.60<br />

4 The Jewelry Magazine India 2.10<br />

5 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Business Canada 2.00<br />

6 Diamond World India 2.00<br />

7 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Focus UK 2.00<br />

8 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> Magazine UK 2.00<br />

9 Indian <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 2.00<br />

10 The New <strong>Jeweller</strong> UAE / India 2.00<br />

11 Canadian <strong>Jeweller</strong> Canada 2.00<br />

12 The Retail Jeweler USA 2.00<br />

13 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Outlook UK 1.80<br />

14 Instore Magazine USA 1.80<br />

15 National Jeweler USA 1.70<br />

16 JCK USA 1.70<br />

17 Professional <strong>Jeweller</strong> UK 1.50<br />

18 Art of <strong>Jeweller</strong>y India 1.40<br />

19 Solitaire Magazine Singapore 1.00<br />

20 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y World Australia 1.00<br />

21 Preziosa Magazine Italy 1.00<br />

22 Gold Book Magazine Turkey 1.00<br />

23 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Monthly UK 1.00<br />

24 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Network South Africa 1.00<br />

25 Bangkok Gems & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Thailand NO DATA<br />

26 Solitaire International Singapore NO DATA<br />

27 Jewel Trendz India NO DATA<br />

28 Hong Kong <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Magazine Hong Kong NO DATA<br />

29 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Time New Zealand NO DATA<br />

1 <strong>Jeweller</strong> Australia 29:60<br />

2 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 20:06<br />

3 National Jeweler USA 15:50<br />

4 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Business Canada 02:17<br />

5 Diamond World India 02:15<br />

6 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Outlook UK 02:11<br />

7 JCK USA 01:56<br />

8 Professional <strong>Jeweller</strong> UK 01:55<br />

9 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Focus UK 01:51<br />

10 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Net Asia Hong Kong 01:44<br />

11 The Jewelry Magazine India 01:43<br />

12 Instore Magazine USA 01:42<br />

13 Art of <strong>Jeweller</strong>y India 01:38<br />

14 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> Magazine UK 01:11<br />

15 Solitaire Magazine Singapore 01:10<br />

16 Indian <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 00:54<br />

17 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y World Australia 00:30<br />

18 Preziosa Magazine Italy NO DATA<br />

19 The New <strong>Jeweller</strong> UAE / India NO DATA<br />

20 Canadian <strong>Jeweller</strong> Canada NO DATA<br />

21 The Retail Jeweler USA NO DATA<br />

22 Gold Book Magazine Turkey NO DATA<br />

23 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Monthly UK NO DATA<br />

24 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Network South Africa NO DATA<br />

25 Bangkok Gems & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Thailand NO DATA<br />

26 Solitaire International Singapore NO DATA<br />

27 Jewel Trendz India NO DATA<br />

28 Hong Kong <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Magazine Hong Kong NO DATA<br />

29 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Time New Zealand NO DATA<br />

1 <strong>Jeweller</strong> Australia 22.80%<br />

2 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Net Asia Hong Kong 33.80%<br />

3 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 38.70%<br />

4 Professional <strong>Jeweller</strong> UK 50.00%<br />

5 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Outlook UK 52.00%<br />

6 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Business Canada 55.00%<br />

7 Art of <strong>Jeweller</strong>y India 59.10%<br />

8 Indian <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 60.00%<br />

9 Diamond World India 61.50%<br />

10 The Jewelry Magazine India 63.60%<br />

11 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> Magazine UK 66.70%<br />

12 National Jeweler USA 68.30%<br />

13 Solitaire Magazine Singapore 70.00%<br />

14 JCK USA 72.70%<br />

15 Instore Magazine USA 73.40%<br />

16 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y World Australia 92.30%<br />

17 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Focus UK NO DATA<br />

18 Preziosa Magazine Italy NO DATA<br />

19 The New <strong>Jeweller</strong> UAE / India NO DATA<br />

20 Canadian <strong>Jeweller</strong> Canada NO DATA<br />

21 The Retail Jeweler USA NO DATA<br />

22 Gold Book Magazine Turkey NO DATA<br />

23 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Monthly UK NO DATA<br />

24 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Network South Africa NO DATA<br />

25 Bangkok Gems & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Thailand NO DATA<br />

26 Solitaire International Singapore NO DATA<br />

27 Jewel Trendz India NO DATA<br />

28 Hong Kong <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Magazine Hong Kong NO DATA<br />

29 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Time New Zealand NO DATA<br />

POSITION<br />

TRADING PLATFORM /<br />

PUBLICATION<br />

COUNTRY<br />

PAGE VIEWS<br />

POSITION<br />

TRADING PLATFORM /<br />

PUBLICATION<br />

COUNTRY<br />

DAILY TIME<br />

(IN MINUTES)<br />

POSITION<br />

TRADING PLATFORM /<br />

PUBLICATION<br />

COUNTRY<br />

BOUNCE<br />

RATE<br />

1 Idex* Israel 3.50<br />

2 Rapaport Magazine* USA 1.70<br />

1 Rapaport Magazine* USA 02:25<br />

2 Idex* Israel 02:19<br />

1 Rapaport Magazine* USA 60.60%<br />

2 Idex* Israel 75.80%<br />

All data collated as at 31 December 2021


10 Years Ago<br />

Time Machine: <strong>March</strong> 2012<br />

A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

Historic Headlines<br />

4 Pandora’s global revenue drops; Michael Hill up<br />

4 Brisbane fair opens with surprises<br />

4 Pandora gets Patron’s Award for Pink Ribbon work<br />

4 Diamond jeweller targets BHP mine<br />

4 Nationwide secures Tolkowsky’s new diamond cut<br />

STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON<br />

Knowledge is power<br />

There is nothing more disempowering<br />

than selling to a customer who has more<br />

passion and a deeper understanding of<br />

a product than staff. These customers<br />

see things from a higher vantage point.<br />

Knowledge is power, particularly when<br />

you’re buying, as it creates leverage.<br />

READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON<br />

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />

Tiffany-Swatch legal battle<br />

spirals<br />

Global retailer, Tiffany & Co, launched a<br />

counterclaim against the Swatch Group in the<br />

aftermath of the pair’s botched watch division.<br />

The counterclaim comes after Swatch<br />

terminated its cooperation contracts with<br />

Tiffany last September because of Tiffany’s<br />

alleged “efforts to block and delay development”<br />

of Swatch’s Tiffany Watch Co, founded in 2008<br />

to produce Tiffany & Co branded watches.<br />

Breaking its silence, the renowned jeweller<br />

revealed both sides are in the middle of a<br />

confidential arbitration procedure initiated<br />

by Swatch after Tiffany filed a $587 million<br />

counterclaim to Swatch’s initial $4.1 billion<br />

claim made last December.<br />

Linneys buys 20 carat pink<br />

diamond tiara<br />

Australian jewellery retailer Linneys is looking<br />

to cash in on the public’s obsession with pink<br />

diamonds, acquiring a $2 million Pink Diamond<br />

Tiara.<br />

The one-of-a-kind piece was designed by<br />

the Royal <strong>Jeweller</strong>, Asprey of London, and is<br />

encrusted with 178 rare Argyle pink diamonds,<br />

making up almost 20 carats. The piece<br />

recognises the diamond jubilee of Queen<br />

Elizabeth II.<br />

There is an estimated eight years of production<br />

remaining at the Argyle Mine, and with around<br />

90 per cent of the world’s pink diamonds coming<br />

from this one pit in the Kimberley, the tiara is a<br />

rarity unlikely to be seen again.<br />

The piece has been on tour around Australia<br />

since July last year.<br />

<strong>March</strong> 2012<br />

ON THE COVER Chamilia<br />

Editor’s Desk<br />

4How many jewellery fairs is too many?<br />

What I do know however is that<br />

ultimately it’s the buyers (retailers) who<br />

decide a fair’s success not the sellers<br />

(exhibitors). Mr Market has taught me<br />

many things, most importantly sellers<br />

always follow the buyers not vice versa.<br />

Perhaps that truism is the reason why<br />

the announcement late last year by<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y World publisher, John Abolins,<br />

that he was starting a second Sydney<br />

trade fair - <strong>Jeweller</strong>y World Show - was<br />

doomed to fail.<br />

Soapbox<br />

4 Family jewellers: “As the fourth<br />

generation in our family business,<br />

and the only qualified jeweller since<br />

my great-grandfather started the<br />

business as a watchmaker in 1911,<br />

I have seen many changes in this<br />

industry – both good and bad.<br />

As far as I am concerned if you can<br />

make a business work, as a family<br />

working together, you deserve a<br />

medal. "<br />

– Toni Desbrow co-proprietor<br />

Biloela Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s.<br />

Thomas Sabo rocks Melbourne<br />

More than 350 people helped to celebrate the<br />

launch of Thomas Sabo’s 2012 collections in<br />

Melbourne with a number of Australian rock<br />

‘n’ roll icons.<br />

The German fashion jewellery brand arranged<br />

the event, held at the popular Trak Nightclub<br />

on Saturday night to coincide with the opening<br />

of the Melbourne <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair on Sunday.<br />

While Thomas Sabo stockists were invited,<br />

the brand’s distributor, Duraflex Group<br />

also ensured that retailers’ staff were also<br />

invited. The aim was to help everyone involved<br />

in the sale of the brand to experience and<br />

understand the company’s spirit.<br />

Business as usual for Skagen<br />

in Australia<br />

Although Fossil announced plans in January<br />

to acquire jewellery and watch manufacturer<br />

Skagen, it’s business as usual for the danish<br />

brand in Australia and New Zealand.<br />

In an attempt to expand its portfolio the<br />

giant, US-based fashion accessories<br />

company Fossil agreed to purchase Skagen<br />

Denmark and some of its global partners for<br />

approximately USD$225 million (AUD$219<br />

million) in cash and 150,000 Fossil shares,<br />

but the deal has yet to be finalised.<br />

Nils Rasmussen, managing director of<br />

Skagen’s distributor said, “As I understand<br />

it, the legal documents are being finalised<br />

now and when completed Fossil will engage<br />

with Skagen to anaylse what’s best for the<br />

brand around the world, which could include<br />

different solutions for different markets.”<br />

24 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Packamate Limited<br />

Flat F, Block 2.,<br />

12/F Kwun Tong Industrial Centre.<br />

460-470 Kwun Tong Road, Hong Kong<br />

Tel. +852 2603 1173 or 8121 1751<br />

Email.info@packamate.com<br />

packamate.com<br />

One-stop shop packaging component supply and solution<br />

Packamate Limited is a well-established manufacturer<br />

and wholesaler of quality packaging for various<br />

sectors such as jewellery, shopping bags, watches,<br />

writing instruments, spectacles, beverage, electronic<br />

devices, display, watch winder, cabinets, cosmetic,<br />

jewellery collectors and wine collectors.


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REVIEW<br />

Gems<br />

Part III: Synthetic diamond misconceptions<br />

Inset: Courbet Above: Stuller<br />

Below: Scio Diamond Tech<br />

Over the past few years, comparisons<br />

made by the opposing ‘camps’ of<br />

natural and synthetic diamond have<br />

been rampant, with a large amount of<br />

misinformation clouding the scene.<br />

As synthetic diamonds only further<br />

secure their place in the market, a sound<br />

understanding of how naturals and<br />

synthetics differ is increasingly important:<br />

FALSE ‘Laboratory-grown diamonds<br />

are not synthetic diamonds’<br />

Synthetic diamond is the scientific and<br />

most accurate term for laboratory-grown<br />

diamonds. Gems such as cubic zirconia<br />

(CZ) and moissanite are ‘simulants’ or<br />

‘imitations’, and are not diamonds.<br />

FALSE ‘Laboratory-grown diamonds<br />

are more sustainable’<br />

Given the increasing concern for our planet<br />

and demands for sustainability, this one is a<br />

favourite marketing and advertising mantra<br />

of the synthetic diamond producers.<br />

In 2019, the Federal Trade Commission<br />

issued several synthetic diamond suppliers<br />

warnings regarding “deceptive advertising”<br />

and reprimanded the use of terms such as<br />

“eco-friendly” and “sustainable", stating<br />

that it was highly unlikely these claims<br />

could be substantiated.<br />

Various attempts at comparing the energy<br />

consumption of the natural and synthetic<br />

diamond industries have been made, often<br />

revealing that it depends greatly on the<br />

individual stone.<br />

Realistically, the studies conducted do<br />

not factor in metals used in the synthetic<br />

presses, post-growth treatment, or<br />

the starting material. Graphite, for<br />

example, is environmentally damaging<br />

and hazardous to mine, yet necessary to<br />

produce HPHT synthetics.<br />

It is reported HPHT synthetics use<br />

approximately 36 kWh per carat, while CVDs<br />

use anywhere from 215 kWh to 591 kWh +.<br />

On the other hand, Californian synthetic<br />

diamond company Diamond Foundry is<br />

(through purchased offsetting) certified<br />

carbon-neutral. Within the natural<br />

diamond industry, the figures vary<br />

depending on the mine.<br />

The Argyle mine in Western Australia has<br />

been reported to produce an impressively<br />

low 7 kWh per carat, also noting in 2017<br />

that 91.4 per cent of the water used was<br />

recycled. Synthetic diamonds do not require<br />

the water usage that mining requires.<br />

The Russian company Alrosa reportedly<br />

produces on average 96 kWh per carat<br />

across its operations – 86 per cent of which<br />

is clean energy.<br />

De Beers is currently working on<br />

capturing carbon dioxide, with the hope<br />

of being carbon-neutral by 2027.<br />

Regarding land use, it is reported that the<br />

world’s largest diamond mining companies<br />

together protect three times more land<br />

than they use, across Australia, Botswana,<br />

Russia, and more.<br />

FALSE Laboratory-grown diamonds<br />

are more ethical<br />

This is another common marketing ploy –<br />

the well-known horrific past of the natural<br />

diamond industry. What the public doesn’t<br />

realise is that this is indeed, the past.<br />

Today, natural diamonds play a<br />

substantial role in various communities<br />

around the world. In 2016 alone, the<br />

industry contributed $292 million USD<br />

to social programs such as education<br />

and healthcare.<br />

The Mutambi clinic in Zimbabwe, for<br />

example, is one of five built and supported<br />

by Murowa Diamonds. Before it was built,<br />

members of the community had to walk up<br />

Various attempts<br />

at comparing<br />

the energy<br />

consumption<br />

of the natural<br />

and synthetic<br />

diamond<br />

industries have<br />

been made,<br />

often revealing<br />

that it depends<br />

greatly on the<br />

individual stone.<br />

to 12 miles for healthcare.<br />

In Botswana, members of the Diamond<br />

Producers Association (now Natural<br />

Diamonds Council) support the education<br />

of around 452,000 children per year.<br />

Overall, 60 per cent of the value the<br />

industry creates is retained locally. A<br />

whopping $6.8 billion USD is poured<br />

into communities every year through the<br />

purchase of local goods and services.<br />

Around the world, DPA members employ<br />

around 77,000+ people – that’s more than<br />

Coca-Cola, Nike, or BP. On average, these<br />

employees earn 66 per cent more than the<br />

national average salary.<br />

It is obvious the synthetic diamond industry<br />

could never replace the global benefits of<br />

the natural diamond industry. So back to<br />

the question – which is more ethical?<br />

Another important note is the doublestandard<br />

compared to other gems. The<br />

image of “blood diamonds” still plagues the<br />

diamond industry 21 years after the Global<br />

Witness Conflict Diamond report, whilst<br />

the Global Witness Conflict Rubies report<br />

issued only last year goes largely unnoticed.<br />

The key point is that no blanket term can<br />

be used to encompass all laboratory-grown<br />

diamonds or all natural diamonds. There is<br />

too much limitation for true comparison, as<br />

well as a lack of transparency. What is clear<br />

is the need for truthful marketing focused<br />

on the contribution each can make.<br />

Mikaelah Egan FGAA Dip DT<br />

began her career in the industry at<br />

Diamonds of Distinction in 2015. She now<br />

balances her role at the Gemmological<br />

Association of Australia with studying<br />

geology at the University of Queensland.<br />

Visit instagram.com/mikaelah.egan<br />

For more information on gems and<br />

gemmology, go to www.gem.org.au<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 27


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INDUSTRY FEATURE<br />

Engagement Evolution<br />

THE<br />

CHANGE IN<br />

Tacori<br />

COVID has turned the world upside-down. So much has<br />

changed, including consumer behaviour towards jewellery<br />

and “walking down the aisle”, but was it for better or for worse?<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> sheds light on an emerging market behaviour.<br />

30 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


INDUSTRY FEATURE | Engagement Evolution<br />

Monique Péan<br />

One of the most surveyed consumer<br />

categories about spending and intentions<br />

is engagement and weddings. Each year<br />

various organisations measure what has<br />

happened or is likely to happen.<br />

Whether it is the Australian Bureau of Statistics (ABS)<br />

recording the number of annual marriages, through to<br />

wedding planning websites surveying their users about<br />

their experiences and the average cost of engagement<br />

rings, the wedding business is still vibrant and certain<br />

trends are highlighted as they become more prevalent<br />

depending on the economic climate.<br />

And even better, when it comes to one of the most<br />

important aspects of marriage – selecting and buying<br />

an engagement ring – it seems that couples still prefer<br />

dealing with independent jewellers over online websites.<br />

That is, despite the increasing popularity of online shopping<br />

and the growth of specialist diamond jewellery websites,<br />

various studies have found 67 per cent of people who<br />

decided to marry purchased their engagement ring instore,<br />

from a specialist jewellery retailer.<br />

In addition, the 2021 Jewelry and Engagement Study that<br />

was released in December– conducted by The Knot, a<br />

US-based digital wedding planning, and registry website<br />

– found that about 50 per cent of the sales took place<br />

at local jewellers after the proposer visited up to three<br />

jewellery stores before making a purchase.<br />

Effectively, the survey indicated that engagement ring<br />

shoppers shunned a digital purchase, preferring face-to-face<br />

consultation, advice and design: “While online channels,<br />

such as social media and jewelry websites, continue to be the<br />

leading resource for ring research and inspiration, proposers<br />

value the importance of in-store shopping.”<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s can rejoice – that’s news worth celebrating!<br />

Interestingly, The Knot’s 2020 survey of 5,000 newly engaged<br />

individuals in the US found that ring shopping experiences<br />

looked different during the first year of the pandemic.<br />

Along with planning their proposal within a shorter<br />

time frame to account for constantly evolving<br />

pandemic conditions, the state of the economy and<br />

overall uncertainty around the future did not impact<br />

engagement ring 'spends' for 86 per cent of to-be-weds.<br />

Confronted with COVID, shopping for engagement rings<br />

RING IN THE FACTS<br />

'I do' Trends<br />

The Knot's 2021 Jewelry<br />

& Engagement Study was<br />

conducted nationally in the<br />

US during November 2021<br />

among more than 5,000<br />

adults who announced<br />

their engagement between<br />

January – November 2021.<br />

All respondents were<br />

adults aged 18-54 and who<br />

provided their email address<br />

to The Knot Worldwide.<br />

67%<br />

of engagement rings were<br />

purchased in-store<br />

10<br />

rings on average were<br />

reviewed before purchase<br />

by proposers who visited<br />

two to three retail stores<br />

86%<br />

of engagement rings still<br />

featured diamond as the<br />

centre stone, with 41 per<br />

cent preferring round<br />

brilliant and, 19 per cent<br />

preferring oval<br />

1 in 4<br />

rings featured a man-made<br />

centre stone – an increase<br />

of 11 per cent in the last<br />

two years<br />

for the period continued to be a two-person activity for<br />

most couples, as 72 per cent of proposees reported being<br />

involved in the selection of their engagement ring.<br />

In fact, surprisingly, the 2020 report found that there<br />

was minimal change to the national average cost of<br />

an engagement ring in 2020 - $5,500, compared to<br />

$5,900 in 2019.<br />

One year later, the same study found that the average<br />

spending on engagement rings for 2021 increased slightly<br />

to $US6,000 ($AU8,387). This increase may be attributed to a<br />

rise in diamond prices overall, but it hasn’t deterred couples<br />

from spending more in order to buy their perfect ring.<br />

When it comes to one of the most important aspects<br />

of marriage – selecting and buying an engagement<br />

ring – it seems that couples still prefer dealing with<br />

independent jewellers over online websites.<br />

While the increase was not significant, given all the<br />

doom and gloom over the past two years it would not<br />

have been surprising if there were a decline in average<br />

price purchases.<br />

In more good news for specialist fine jewellery retailers,<br />

93 per cent of respondents exchanged engagement rings<br />

of which 83 per cent were diamond-set with an average<br />

size of 1.5 carats, while one in four ring designs consisted<br />

of a centre stone weighing more than 2 carats.<br />

Closer to home, a 2020 survey by Wedded Wonderland,<br />

an Australian-based wedding directory website reported<br />

that the average engagement ring spend rose to $12,690<br />

from $11,753 in the previous year’s survey, representing<br />

an 8 per cent increase. The data came from a poll of 839<br />

brides-to-be.<br />

Further, another survey of retailers by Instore, a US<br />

business-to-business magazine for jewellery store<br />

owners (similar to <strong>Jeweller</strong>) found that 61 per cent of<br />

jewellers said that more than half their customers came<br />

back to the buy their wedding rings, while 18 per cent<br />

said around half revisited the store for wedding rings.<br />

The initial engagement ring purchase acted as a catalyst<br />

for ongoing business years ahead.<br />

Style and size<br />

Another standout statistic was that The Knot survey found<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 31


Engagement Evolution| INDUSTRY FEATURE<br />

Lark and Berry<br />

Larsen <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

Mark McAskill<br />

Taylor & Hart<br />

Stuller<br />

that the 48 per cent of rings were custom-makes, which<br />

goes hand-in-hand with the recent shift back to custommade<br />

jewellery throughout the industry.<br />

Colin Pocklington, managing director of Australia’s<br />

largest jewellery buying group, Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s,<br />

has regularly reported on the importance of this<br />

category and trend to members.<br />

In the midst of the COVID pandemic, Pocklington attributed<br />

stronger sales to “increased consumer confidence now<br />

that the virus is largely suppressed, a large number of<br />

Australians who would normally be overseas are spending<br />

their money domestically, and continued strong growth in<br />

custom design and manufacture”.<br />

He also says that the growth in consumer demand for<br />

custom designed jewellery will continue and provide<br />

substantial turnover for bricks-and-mortar stores as<br />

consumers search for something ‘different’.<br />

“There is still a huge opportunity for further growth in<br />

custom sales, particularly as bricks-and-mortar store<br />

sales are more profitable than online sales. That’s<br />

because, on average, most products sold online are at<br />

a lower price point than those sold in-store as the vast<br />

majority of consumers buying online are searching for<br />

the lowest price available,” Pocklington explains.<br />

Whenever there is an economic crisis, such as a pandemic<br />

or global recession, people reevaluate their lives and that’s<br />

certainly true over the past two years.<br />

“I think after going through something as trying as a<br />

global pandemic, people tend to put a renewed importance<br />

on things that are everlasting” says Alex Stuller senior<br />

bridal director Stuller adding, “The ultimate commitment<br />

is represented in engagement and wedding bands, and<br />

couples are looking to customise them even more to<br />

make them special.”<br />

The customised trend would not surprise Reza Bapooji<br />

business development manager Pallion, who says,<br />

“Couples are desiring a ring that uniquely represents<br />

their partnership. It is definitely a more collaborative<br />

project, and a design will often evolve to cater to<br />

individual preferences.”<br />

DOWN THE AISLE<br />

Couple Decisions<br />

93%<br />

of surveyed couples<br />

continued to exchange<br />

engagement rings<br />

30%<br />

of couples who set a budget<br />

for their engagement ring<br />

spent more than planned<br />

34%<br />

of couples didn't mind<br />

that the centre stone<br />

was man-made,<br />

with Gen-Z finding it<br />

less important than<br />

Millennials (35 per cent)<br />

and Gen-X (41 per cent)<br />

90%<br />

of couples announced<br />

their engagement on<br />

social media, with 78 per<br />

cent using Instagram and<br />

77 per cent via Facebook<br />

Source: The Knot<br />

Brendan Cunningham agrees. The managing director of<br />

Salt & Pepper Diamonds says, “People want that unique<br />

piece with a unique stone, they want modern with a twist<br />

and, most importantly, affordability.”<br />

Larger diamonds are still the main focus according to<br />

Maulin Shah director World Shiner, one of Australia’s<br />

leading diamond dealers. “We find that customers still<br />

prefer the ‘big one’, the larger diamond trend is still<br />

on-trend. There’s a shift towards different shapes and to<br />

colour diamonds, but the majority [of sales] is still the<br />

white diamond.<br />

“Diamond prices have increased as well, which means<br />

the size demand has remained much the same.”<br />

Whenever there is an economic crisis,<br />

such as a pandemic or global recession,<br />

people reevaluate their lives and that’s<br />

certainly true over the past two years.<br />

Jay Ivany, chief executive officer ADTC, another leading<br />

diamond supplier has also noticed a shift to larger<br />

diamonds since 2019.<br />

“We have a lot more people buying bigger stones, the<br />

trend of travel budgets being directed towards other<br />

forms of happiness in diamonds and jewellery has<br />

continued over the past 12 months,” Ivany explains.<br />

Of course, there’s been a huge shift in consumer<br />

demand to eco-friendly products and services and<br />

it has filtered through to the jewellery industry.<br />

The Knot reported that sustainability awareness has<br />

also become an emerging trend, where nearly one in<br />

four engagement rings were lab-created stones, which<br />

indicated an increase by 11 per cent on the two-year<br />

difference when compared to a 2019 survey.<br />

Chris Soklich managing director Ellendale Diamonds<br />

agrees: “Couples are more aware of design and want<br />

meaningful details rather than an off the shelf look.<br />

Conscious ethical sourcing and sustainable materials are<br />

Artemer<br />

Scott West<br />

Ellendale Diamonds<br />

Calleija<br />

Eva Fehren<br />

32 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Concept to Creation<br />

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Engagement Evolution| INDUSTRY FEATURE<br />

Greville Ingham<br />

Peter W Beck<br />

What's a Toi et Moi ring?<br />

Toi et Moi is French for "you and me." A Toi<br />

et Moi ring coils around the finger with two<br />

complementary gemstones with the first<br />

record of the design dating back to 1796 with<br />

the marriage of Napoleon Bonaparte and<br />

Josephine. It featured a pear-shaped sapphire<br />

and pear-shaped diamond mounted on gold.<br />

“Due to COVID-19 customers<br />

are not spending money<br />

on holidays, travelling or<br />

honeymoons which has<br />

allowed for them to spend<br />

more money on engagement<br />

rings and wedding bands.”<br />

key for many couples.”<br />

This accords with Miriam Neubauer, director Grown<br />

Diamonds who says, “With many people these days<br />

being eco-conscious, we have found that our clients'<br />

customers are leaning towards the more eco-friendly<br />

option of lab-grown diamonds”.<br />

One of the stalwarts of the traditional wedding and<br />

engagement jewellery category, Peter W Beck, has also<br />

recognised the trend. Greville Ingham national sales<br />

manager says, “there’s more demand for lab-created<br />

diamonds”, reaffirming the same fact that “Due to<br />

COVID-19 customers are not spending money on<br />

holidays, travelling or honeymoons which has allowed<br />

for them to spend more money on engagement rings<br />

and wedding bands.”<br />

In terms of other trends yellow gold engagement<br />

rings have become increasingly popular among study<br />

respondents while demand for white gold engagement<br />

rings has declined in recent years.<br />

The shape of love<br />

Shape and setting were considered important features<br />

with round cut diamonds as the most popular at 41<br />

percent, while oval cut diamonds have also seen an<br />

increase by 2 per cent in 2015 to 19 per cent this year.<br />

Closer to home, industry suppliers experienced slightly<br />

different demand depending on their own market niche.<br />

“Obviously ovals and pear shapes are super popular and<br />

have been for the past few years. We have also seen a<br />

surge in requests as well for elongated cushions and<br />

radiants,” Ivany says.<br />

Pallion has had similar results: “Oval, pear, always round<br />

and most recently emerald cuts are making a resurgence<br />

in popularity” are popular according to Bapooji and for<br />

Neubauer, “The 1 and 2-carat sizes have been extremely<br />

popular while rounds are consistently popular followed by<br />

ovals and pear shapes.”<br />

Likewise, Ingham advises that “Oval and emerald cut<br />

stones are popular followed by larger marquise although<br />

round brilliant cut is still the largest category, Also yellow<br />

sapphire emerged in queries this year’, while Stuller says<br />

that “Round remains the reigning queen, but oval<br />

is coming in a hot second place.”<br />

Colour – diamond or gemstone - continues to be<br />

something non-traditional couples are looking for.<br />

“Unique pieces featuring colour diamonds/stones and<br />

Alex Stuller<br />

Stuller<br />

"Clearly communicating your<br />

customisation capabilities<br />

will be more important than<br />

ever as couples continue to<br />

choose customisation over<br />

in-stock designs."<br />

Maulin Shah<br />

World Shiner<br />

“We find that customers<br />

prefer the ‘big one’, the<br />

larger diamond trend is still<br />

on-trend. There’s a shift<br />

towards different shapes and<br />

to colour diamonds, but the<br />

majority [of sales] is still the<br />

white diamond."<br />

Reza Bapooji<br />

Palloys<br />

"Couples are desiring a<br />

ring that uniquely represents<br />

their partnership. It is<br />

definitely a more collaborative<br />

project, and a design will<br />

often evolve to cater to<br />

individual preferences."<br />

Chris Soklich<br />

Ellendale Diamonds<br />

"Couples are more aware<br />

of design and want meaningful<br />

details rather than an<br />

off-the-shelf look. Conscious<br />

ethical sourcing and<br />

sustainable materials are<br />

key for many couples.”<br />

unusual cuts with vintage themes are having a resurgence.<br />

Elongated styles with oval cut diamonds are also very<br />

popular,” Soklich explains.<br />

“Round brilliant cut and exceptionally peppered looking<br />

diamonds have been most popular and fast to move. Pears<br />

are quite desired also however there tends to be some<br />

variance in the shape of these and kites and hex cut are<br />

also on top of the list,“ for Cunningham.<br />

Shah says that across all of the World Shiner state offices<br />

“the number one [shape] is still round and the second most<br />

popular is oval. The third is pear-shaped, followed by cushion,<br />

emerald, princess cut, marquise and heart shape.”<br />

From real-time advice on the centre stone shape,<br />

size and type to identifying the strengths and<br />

weaknesses in a couple’s custom-design, nothing<br />

beats the experience of working with a jeweller to<br />

ask all the right questions.<br />

So where to from here? Well, if the various surveys are<br />

accurate, then independent jewellery retailers still rule the<br />

roost when it comes to couples getting engaged for many<br />

reasons. This includes face-to-face assistance for one of<br />

the most important decisions of a couple’s life together.<br />

From real-time advice on the centre stone shape, size<br />

and type to identifying the strengths and weaknesses in a<br />

couple’s custom-design, nothing beats the experience of<br />

working with a jeweller to ask all the right questions.<br />

While the category had its ups and down throughout<br />

2020/2021 with many weddings being postponed, and then<br />

postponed again, due to government restrictions, the vast<br />

majority of brides- and grooms-to-be rescheduled their<br />

ceremonies instead of cancelling.<br />

This has led many people to predict that this year – and<br />

2023 – could well be a boom year for engagements and<br />

weddings.<br />

Hermés<br />

Indeed, Stuller’s senior bridal director has predicted that:<br />

“<strong>2022</strong> is projected to be the biggest year for weddings<br />

since the early ‘80s.<br />

“<strong>Jeweller</strong>s should make sure they’re ready to walk couples<br />

through their special day. Clearly communicating your<br />

customisation capabilities will be more important than<br />

ever as couples continue to choose customisation over<br />

in-stock designs,” Alex Stuller advised.<br />

34 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


FEATURE<br />

Brighter Branding<br />

AN UNSHAKEABLE<br />

MOVEMENT<br />

THE BRANDED<br />

EVOLUTION<br />

Cartier 'Love is Love' Campaign 2021<br />

Arguably, Australia led the world in helping to create the success of ‘branded<br />

jewellery’. The global jewellery industry was late to the party when it came<br />

to a consumer category driven by branding, however, it continues to evolve<br />

as new ideas and an ever-changing consumer looks for new aspiration.<br />

36 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Opposite: Ania Haie; Bronzallure<br />

Above: Cartier; Pandora; Coeur de Lion<br />

Once upon a time – believe it or not –<br />

branded jewellery didn’t exist. To be clear,<br />

the industry has always had brands, but<br />

a ‘jewellery brand’ is quite different to ‘branded<br />

jewellery’.<br />

Confused? Well, that’s because people often think that<br />

jewellery is like any other consumer category, however;<br />

for a long time the jewellery industry was very different.<br />

For example, consider sporting goods; where almost every<br />

product is chosen by brand name. The same goes for cars,<br />

technology, and just about any other consumer good these<br />

days – brands have always held power.<br />

However, the jewellery industry was a latecomer to the<br />

branded phenomenon.<br />

And for consumers it’s a little hard to understand because<br />

there is a difference between a ‘jewellery brand’ – such as<br />

Cartier, Tiffany, Graff, or Chopard – and ‘branded jewellery’.<br />

‘<strong>Jeweller</strong>y brands’ usually operate as a vertically integrated<br />

business model, not as part of a wholesale (massdistribution)<br />

model. For example Tiffany, one of the world’s<br />

most iconic brands, is sold exclusively from company-owned<br />

stores. The same goes for Cartier, Chopard, and Graff.<br />

In other words, the distribution is through a retail model, not<br />

wholesale, which means that independent jewellery stores<br />

can choose to stock branded jewellery, but they cannot<br />

choose to stock Tiffany. And that’s where the confusion lies;<br />

branded jewellery - as a product - is considered a category.<br />

The evolution of branded jewellery<br />

As a marketing concept and product category, branded<br />

jewellery is generally considered to have gained traction<br />

with Pandora in the early-mid 2000s, which operated as a<br />

wholesale distribution model, even though it now has its own<br />

retail outlets.<br />

Which brings us back to why branded jewellery is a relatively<br />

new phenomenon to the industry, even though all other<br />

consumer categories have been driven and dominated by<br />

brands for a long time.<br />

Just to confuse things a little more, watches have always<br />

been about brands. Indeed, it was only 10-15 years ago that<br />

a typical jeweller’s store window featured unbranded gold<br />

and diamond jewellery to the left of the door, and to the right<br />

of the door the window was full of watches - all branded.<br />

Tiffany & Co.<br />

Sapphire Dreams<br />

Desert Rose<br />

Consumers selected and purchased watches solely on<br />

‘brand’, while jewellery had no branding at all.<br />

It was thought that small items could not clearly feature<br />

brand names for identification, so why bother? Inversely,<br />

a watch face could feature the brand name. But how do<br />

you highlight a brand on a necklace, bracelet, or ring?<br />

Of course, that was an early notion of branding. To be fair,<br />

branding has evolved in a sophisticated manner over the<br />

past 20 years, from simply slapping a big label or logo on<br />

an item, to selling the aspirational lifestyles associated<br />

with the brand.<br />

While it’s almost impossible to measure, Australia was<br />

most likely one of the first countries to launch headlong<br />

into branded jewellery when Pandora started to capture<br />

the attention of consumers. It has often been said<br />

that Pandora’s distribution and marketing strategy in<br />

Australia largely became the model for the company’s<br />

worldwide expansion.<br />

Not only did the Pandora Phenomenon launch the company<br />

into superstar status – and according to some, one of the<br />

largest jewellery brands in the world today – it also catalysed<br />

the launch of many other brands, which effectively became<br />

its competitors. Each attempted to emulate Pandora’s<br />

marketing and distribution model.<br />

Call them look-alikes or copycats, retail jewellers have had<br />

to contend with a plethora of fashion brands coming and<br />

going over the last decade. Think Chamilia, Trollbeads,<br />

Tuskc, Endless <strong>Jeweller</strong>y, Ole Lynggaard, Alex and Ani, and<br />

so on, just to name a few.<br />

Each, effectively, left Australia or failed for varying<br />

reasons. However, this taught retailers a valuable<br />

lesson in becoming more selective about stocking<br />

overseas brands that can sometimes misunderstand or<br />

miscalculate the local market.<br />

The international and local brands that remain today<br />

have filled the gaps left by those that have collapsed and<br />

have proven themselves to be timeless. They continue<br />

to demonstrate the value and relevance of the branded<br />

jewellery category to the stockist.<br />

To stock or not to stock?<br />

The biggest change in the past decade is that retailers<br />

now readily recognise the many benefits to stocking<br />

branded jewellery: a ready-to-sell product with unique<br />

and popular designs, a tailor-made customer base of<br />

seasoned ‘brand fans’, timely new collection launches<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 37


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Brighter Branding | FEATURE<br />

THE KEYS TO SUCCESS<br />

Building a successful brand often needs deep pockets,<br />

but what are other key factors to success?<br />

Rachael Abbott<br />

Timesupply<br />

» Engagement & Store traffic<br />

“Brands can offer ‘plug-and-play’ sales opportunities for the<br />

retailers and profit from the highly-developed jewellery designs and<br />

international marketing strategies and tools which are also made<br />

available to retailers to use in-store at very minimal investment.<br />

UNOde50 for example, has 325,000 followers on Instagram and<br />

432,000 on Facebook.<br />

This shows how interested the consumer is in the brand. Promoting<br />

the brand, not just the jewellery, drives customers into stores -<br />

bricks and mortar and/or online, resulting in sales not only of the<br />

brand, but also in other stock items and services. Brands help<br />

create store traffic and repeat visits and purchases.”<br />

Steve Der Bedrossian<br />

SAMS Group<br />

Phil Edwards<br />

Duraflex Group<br />

» Quality & Trustworthiness<br />

"Success is rooted in brands offering a comprehensive marketing<br />

plan, which supports their brand mission and core values in an<br />

accessible way for consumers. Quality, designs, and a clear target<br />

market help to create this external. Beyond creating a trustworthy<br />

and appealing brand, deliver high-quality products engineered to<br />

consistently impress your specific group of consumers."<br />

» Target market & Service<br />

"Whilst COVID has created some difficult challenges for everyone,<br />

this has highlighted the importance that retailers have a solid<br />

understanding of who their customer base is and catering to<br />

them with the right product mix/brands and range in-store. Not<br />

every brand is suitable for every store and we all need to focus on<br />

what we do best and our own unique point of difference.<br />

Ultimately, great customer service will always be a critical key<br />

to success – driving loyalty to ensure repeat business. Whilst<br />

the lockdowns of the past two years forced a shift in the path to<br />

purchase towards ecommerce (with many Retail Partners pivoting<br />

to make ecommerce an extension of their existing retail business) –<br />

jewellery is a unique category whereby many consumers still want<br />

the in-store personable shopping experience."<br />

ICONIC<br />

REDISCOVER THE MOST ICONIC DESIGNS OF ALL TIME<br />

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Chris Soklich<br />

Ellendale Diamonds<br />

Justin Veil<br />

Designa Accessories<br />

Karen Ridikas<br />

Couture Kingdom<br />

» Innovation & Tradition<br />

"Excel in all areas from service, product quality, delivery and aftercare.<br />

Show innovation in design, encompass current trends and<br />

feelings, yet retain a sense of the traditional to build a timeless brand.<br />

Excite and engage with the consumer to promote trust and loyalty. Be<br />

clear with your branding and strategies. Have a point of difference."<br />

» Leverage & Discernment<br />

"Never lose sight of your customer. Brands might get them to the<br />

case, but you need to ensure product design that talks to the brand<br />

loyalist, as well as market trends, but trying to talk to everyone will<br />

ultimately make you resonate with no-one.<br />

Much like watches, a branded jewellery offering can complement a<br />

retailer's own manufactured jewellery and help attract customers<br />

into the store. Retailers can leverage the brand equity to engage<br />

consumers and cross-sell with their own products, increasing ATV<br />

and overall margins."<br />

» Story-telling & Personality<br />

"Retailers should offer brands that their customers and audience<br />

relate to currently (popular trends) but also, the storytelling nostalgic<br />

brands that always resonate. These stories/memories are key factors<br />

for purchasing, so it’s great a for a brand’s success and longevity in<br />

store. ‘Loved’ brands are key for consumer behaviour. Brands have a<br />

personality and evokes feelings that matter within the consumer."<br />

(02) 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


L to R: Unode50; Couture Kingdom; Guess<br />

alongside consistently popular ‘bread-and-butter’<br />

lines, high-quality marketing and merchandising<br />

materials for both online and in-store retail, and repair<br />

and replacement support.<br />

The promise is simple: a brand will draw new customers<br />

to your store and deliver on fresh product with consistent<br />

marketing and support.<br />

Having said that, stocking branded jewellery becomes a<br />

balancing act. Whether to stock the category is a decision that<br />

every retail jeweller will consider at some stage, not to mention the<br />

question of how much of one’s inventory a brand should occupy and<br />

which brands are appropriate to stock.<br />

The promise is simple: a brand will draw new customers<br />

to your store and deliver on fresh product with<br />

consistent marketing and support.<br />

Amid the constantly shifting tides of consumer tastes and trends,<br />

the retailer must also pay frequent attention to stock performance,<br />

marketing, and customer feedback. Yet, for seasoned navigators the<br />

rewards are bountiful.<br />

Of course, the success of a brand’s performance in a retail store<br />

is a two-way street. The retailer must consider the price and<br />

margin, brand image and marketing, and extent of supplier support<br />

and must be willing to meet the brand half-way to fulfil its sales<br />

requirements. With all the benefits also comes commitment.<br />

And while the industry has leveraged the opportunities of branded<br />

ranges for years, the category does not come without challenges<br />

brought about by the pandemic. The past two years have played a<br />

significant part in the progress of the branded jewellery category.<br />

Changing conditions, changing market<br />

Justin Veil, managing director of Designa Accessories, believes<br />

that branded jewellery is no longer just disposable fast fashion and<br />

that it must have a strong value proposition across product design,<br />

pricing, and distribution.<br />

“The category has evolved and changed - increasing entrants into<br />

the space using a variety of fabrications has resulted in broader<br />

acceptance and also improved the perception of branded jewellery<br />

to make it a more viable proposition for customers and retailers<br />

who would have previously only considered fine jewellery.<br />

“Expansion of stand-alone stores for many branded jewellery<br />

concepts has also helped broaden acceptance of the category for<br />

consumers and also tap into customer segments who may not<br />

have been shopping in traditional jewellers,” Veil says.<br />

Phil Edwards, managing director Duraflex Group Australia agrees<br />

that the category has come a long way since he first introduced<br />

Thomas Sabo to Australia. (see story on Page 44).<br />

“There is no doubt that branded jewellery has simply evolved to<br />

limited edition<br />

sales@couturekingdom.com<br />

ph. (02) 9807 9380<br />

©The Coca-Cola Company. All rights reserved.<br />

Distributed by Couture Kingdom


Brighter Branding | FEATURE<br />

Cartier<br />

L to R: Golshifteh Farahani for Cartier ; Kylie Jenner for Messika ; Anya Taylor-Joy for Tiffany & Co.<br />

be an integral part of the jewellery trade and has enjoyed<br />

significant growth as it has become more entrenched in the<br />

market. The shift in distribution strategy by some of the global<br />

brands has driven significant change,” Edwards says.<br />

The increasing influence of social media has played an<br />

important part in the growth and reach of brands says<br />

Rachael Abbott, manager of marketing and merchandise at<br />

Time Supply.<br />

“There has been such a huge increase in social media,<br />

especially during COVID, customers are very focused on what<br />

is the latest trend and what they see online. They want to be<br />

seen to be a part of it,” she explains.<br />

“There is definitely a focus on personalised jewellery especially<br />

on a brand such as Nomination, where people can express<br />

their personal identity, celebrating special moments in life.”<br />

The personalisation aspect is not unsurprising given that the<br />

success of the category was largely built on the notion.<br />

“Branded jewellery is very much about self-expression,<br />

particularly among our core demographic of 18 to 35 year<br />

old females. This expression is a huge part of their identity,<br />

and with branded jewellery this can be communicated easily,<br />

and with confidence even when the rest of their fashion/look<br />

is expected to be restricted,” says Karen Ridikas, director of<br />

Couture Kingdom.<br />

“The importance of this self-expression and having ways to<br />

communicate your passions and ‘fandoms’ - we believe - has<br />

strengthened this category. Plus, we are seeing young men<br />

increasingly part of our consumer base, too, due to the rise in<br />

dominant common pop culture sectors across a multitude of<br />

medias and experiences,” she adds.<br />

That said, in more recent times the branded arena has also<br />

expanded from the ‘fashion focused’ product into the fine<br />

jewellery category, which is rather ironic given that in the<br />

early days many retailers looked down upon Pandora for<br />

being cheap ‘costume’ jewellery.<br />

Today, branded jewellery collections encompass high-end to<br />

fashion designs that include diamonds, colour gemstones,<br />

platinum and sterling silver. While branded jewellery was often<br />

associated with the fashion category, today it has no bearing<br />

on materials.<br />

Chris Soklich, director Ellendale Diamonds, points to changes<br />

that only a few years ago would not have been considered<br />

relevant to the category.<br />

GE T TING IT RIGHT<br />

Brand Priorities<br />

Steve Der Bedrossian<br />

SAMS Group Australia<br />

“Creating relationships with<br />

customers can drive exposure<br />

and brand awareness, only gained<br />

when branding is strong and drives<br />

products and design.”<br />

Rachael Abbott<br />

Timesupply<br />

“Brands that focus on their<br />

customers’ emotions and identities<br />

instead of their product’s unique<br />

features, have a better chance of<br />

building brands that inspire love,”<br />

Justin Veil<br />

Designa Accessories<br />

“Expansion of stand-alone stores<br />

for many branded jewellery<br />

concepts has also helped<br />

broaden acceptance of the<br />

category for consumers and also<br />

tap into customer segments who<br />

may not have been shopping in<br />

traditional jewellers.”<br />

“Consumers are more socially aware; sustainability and<br />

credibility are key focuses. They want to be informed and<br />

can compare brands more readily as access to marketing<br />

is available now across multiple platforms at any time,”<br />

Socklich explains, adding, “brands - more so than ever -<br />

build a presence through offering a lifestyle.”<br />

Someone who has seen a lot of change throughout the<br />

industry - and in particular the branded category - is Steve<br />

Der Bedrossian, managing director SAMS Group. Having<br />

recently entered the market with a new collection of Australian<br />

sapphire jewellery following the success of branded pink<br />

diamond jewellery Blush Pink, he believes that COVID assisted<br />

many local brands to gain prominence as they sought stock<br />

and support from suppliers closer to home.<br />

“People are now more focused on timeless pieces with<br />

longevity, quality, and aesthetics. The pandemic has also<br />

changed purchase habits, as Australian consumers are now<br />

more likely to seek locally made products, so this must be<br />

a core focus for marketing and branding when products are<br />

positioned at a higher price.”<br />

It ain’t going anywhere<br />

There was a time where industry pundits predicted that<br />

branded jewellery was a fad - something that would fall by the<br />

wayside - but those days are long gone. The category is well<br />

entrenched in the jewellery industry today and while it may<br />

not be for all retailers, the arrival of new brands with a diverse<br />

offering will continue, albeit perhaps a little slower in a post-<br />

COVID world.<br />

That said, there are many reasons why astute retailers will<br />

look towards a sensible offering of branded products within<br />

their own niche.<br />

“Brand confidence and trust from consumers is important<br />

when they are purchasing a luxury good, such as jewellery,<br />

as in order to gain loyalty the brand must deliver in<br />

all aspects including design, quality, and service,” Der<br />

Bedrossian explains.<br />

“Creating relationships with customers can drive exposure<br />

and brand awareness, only gained when branding is strong<br />

and drives products and design,” he adds.<br />

“Brands that focus on their customers’ emotions and identities<br />

instead of their product’s unique features, have a better chance<br />

of building brands that inspire love,” Abbott says.<br />

She adds that retailers can use this “knowledge to engage<br />

42 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Above: Unode50<br />

with their customers and potential customers, to inspire loyalty, and to<br />

entice customers into their store - whether physical or online. Retail<br />

has become so much more than just offering a place to purchase an<br />

item, it is about offering great service, advice and excellent brands.”<br />

Soklich echoes Abbott’s thoughts: “Through the experience of our<br />

Desert Rose diamond jewellery brand, retailers report an additional<br />

level of prestige to their store. We promote trust and emotional<br />

connections with the retailers’ clients, which can attract a more varied<br />

and newer client base. It also retains the interest of the retailer’s<br />

existing clients, with upcoming collections as the brand evolves.”<br />

Today, branded jewellery collections encompass<br />

high-end to fashion designs that include diamonds, colour<br />

gemstones, platinum and sterling silver. While branded<br />

jewellery was often associated with the fashion category,<br />

today it has no bearing on materials.<br />

Interestingly, Ridikas believes pop-culture is an important advantage<br />

for retailers: “The strong presence of pop-culture in fashion makes<br />

branded jewellery very attractive for retailers. The advantage of having<br />

brands as part of a retail strategy is being able to leverage off-quality<br />

imagery, marketing, content, and brand recognition.<br />

Edwards is often contacted by international brands seeking an<br />

Australian distributor and today he is more selective in his approach.<br />

“Retail partners now understand the value of quality branded jewellery<br />

and never before has it been more important to maximise the<br />

advantages than right now. The appeal of branded jewellery continues,<br />

particularly that of international brands, luring customers into stores,<br />

which provides them with the opportunity to increase their own sales,<br />

whilst leveraging the brand’s profile and consumer demand for the<br />

product,” Edwards advises.<br />

Today, with the diverse offering of branded jewellery, a retailer<br />

can take advantage of a brand’s story and use it to enhance their<br />

own retail story with marketing material that helps to accentuate<br />

their jewellery offering. No longer do brands serve to compete<br />

with other stock, but rather, it has evolved to sit alongside and<br />

accentuate the store’s other offerings.<br />

With striking product and beautiful marketing material, branded<br />

jewellery – from fashion to fine – can help drive a more powerful<br />

message which in turn helps attract more customers for retailers<br />

looking to increase overall sales.<br />

Our 9ct gold designs are fashionable and practical.<br />

Select from a selection of stackable rings,<br />

elegant earrings and stunning pendants.<br />

SapphireDreams.com.au


Business of Brands<br />

Through Turning Tides<br />

Thomas Sabo SS<strong>2022</strong> Campaign<br />

The jewellery industry can be a highly-charged and rapidly-evolving market where brands come and go. They start<br />

strong, only to fall behind the race as new competitors arrive. Innovation and determination are key factors to<br />

survival in a trend-driven market. THOMAS SABO has remained resilient.<br />

In 2006 – 16 years ago – a little known European<br />

jewellery brand was about to launch in Australia.<br />

Establishing any new brand is not easy, let alone a German<br />

brand called Thomas Sabo half-way around the world and, which<br />

at the time, had little recognition outside of its home base.<br />

And while it’s easy to look back at the success of Thomas<br />

Sabo in Australia and New Zealand today, 2006 was a different<br />

era in terms of jewellery design and distribution; there was<br />

still a distinct division between the fine and fashion jewellery<br />

categories and, therefore, the perception of what retailers<br />

saw as ‘appropriate’.<br />

That said, Phil Edwards, managing director Duraflex Group<br />

Australia believed in the product, and Thomas Sabo the company,<br />

and was ready for the challenge. Its first introduction to the local<br />

market was at the Sydney Trade Fair in August 2006.<br />

“The first two years’ trading was slow and challenging as the<br />

concept of branded sterling silver jewellery at the time of launch<br />

was a new frontier to the trade,” Edwards explained in 2015.<br />

To keep things in perspective, Kleins was the second-largest<br />

jewellery chain in Australia, with 182 stores. The company<br />

collapsed in 2008 and was liquidated.<br />

Edwards said the launch of the Charm Club collection in 2007<br />

became central to their success: “The roll-out of Charm Club was<br />

a key point of difference in the market that allowed Thomas Sabo<br />

to create some more immediate success and growth.”<br />

The momentum, while slow at the start, gathered pace<br />

44 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong><br />

IN NUMBERS<br />

Going Deep<br />

1984<br />

The year that<br />

Thomas Sabo<br />

was founded<br />

2,500<br />

Retail stockists<br />

worldwide<br />

16<br />

Years of<br />

Thomas Sabo<br />

in Australia<br />

and by 2015, the brand had close to 300 retail stockists<br />

throughout Australasia.<br />

As would be expected, Thomas Sabo and its designs have<br />

evolved over the years, following the latest consumer trends<br />

while creating its own.<br />

During the global pandemic, Edwards had time to reflect on the<br />

future and concluded it was time to bring back some of the iconic<br />

Charm Club designs.<br />

Edwards explained that he took time to review the historical<br />

sales data to identify the highest-selling charms and jewellery<br />

items with the idea of suggesting that a new collection be<br />

created to celebrate iconic designs.<br />

“We worked closely with Mr Sabo and his team during this<br />

process, to build the collection specifically for our local<br />

market. The hero pieces identified are truly iconic and core<br />

to the brand’s DNA whilst being best sellers.”<br />

“Then consumer feedback and demand motivated us to launch<br />

the Iconic collection - to celebrate the success of the brand<br />

locally and also to provide our valued retail partners with an<br />

opportunity to range the best-selling product of all time,”<br />

Edwards says.<br />

Over the years, the brand has experienced exponential growth<br />

both in our market locally and internationally. Today, Thomas<br />

Sabo’s worldwide distribution consists of 2,500 jewellery and<br />

department stores along with 150 branded outlets, which<br />

includes company owned flagship stores.


Business of Brands<br />

AURORE MELOT<br />

THOMAS SABO CREATIVE DIRECTOR<br />

Thomas Sabo recently announced the worldwide<br />

launch of its Ocean Vibes Spring / Summer<br />

Collection <strong>2022</strong>.<br />

According to Aurore Melot, Thomas Sabo creative<br />

director, the “vibrant three-dimensional dynamic<br />

designs” will showcase hand-crafted stoneembellished<br />

pieces in dark blue, aquamarine, and<br />

white colour gems.<br />

At the time of the announcement, <strong>Jeweller</strong> asked<br />

Melot how she envisions the wearer when designing<br />

new collections.<br />

“That’s an important question because the answer<br />

is quite simple: anyone can, may and should wear<br />

Thomas Sabo! That’s always been the case with us.<br />

But even beyond that, I’m happy that the fashion<br />

world, in general, has opened up and no longer<br />

follows strict rules. Who needs rules or pigeonholes?<br />

“I’m also very happy that the prevailing attitude<br />

at the moment is to buy less, but better. This<br />

increases appreciation for handcrafted pieces and<br />

we, therefore, reach a very broad and diverse target<br />

group today, Melot says.<br />

She explained that she is inspired subliminally by<br />

jewellery from earlier times, finding centuries-old<br />

craftsmanship to be incredibly fascinating in addition<br />

to loving Rococo just as much as the Renaissance<br />

or Art Deco.<br />

“For example, during our creative processes I am<br />

inspired by very different things, a historical piece of<br />

jewellery from the 18th century, something every day<br />

like an antique key or a special encounter, a book<br />

or a work of art or motifs and the movements of<br />

nature,” she adds.<br />

“Every brand has a unique life cycle, and new products and<br />

collections can spark a trend and boom along the way, such<br />

as the original Charm Club launch.”<br />

“Whilst the brand’s Australian sales have declined from<br />

its peak of the Charm Club launch, Thomas Sabo holds a<br />

very strong global market positioning and our local market<br />

positioning is now stabilised and firmly established for the<br />

long term,” Edwards explains.<br />

The jewellery industry – like most other consumer<br />

categories – has a long list of ‘here today, gone tomorrow’<br />

brands, which often enter the Australian market expecting<br />

to conduct business just as they do in Europe or the US,<br />

only to discover nothing could be further from the truth.<br />

Many fail, closing their Australian operation often leaving<br />

retailers and consumers in the lurch. However, the DGA-<br />

Sabo partnership has stood the test of time, including<br />

throughout the global financial crisis of 2008-2009 and<br />

more recently the COVID pandemic.<br />

Indeed, Thomas Sabo the company has also weathered<br />

the storm while many of its US and European competitors<br />

have fallen by the wayside. While many upstart brands<br />

took on venture capital-finding and/or were acquired<br />

by larger companies, Mr Sabo remains the founder and<br />

owner of the company that he started in 1984.<br />

“DGA continues our exceptional long-term relationship of<br />

working closely and personally with Mr Sabo who remains the<br />

owner and key decision-maker for the brand. I speak regularly<br />

to him on the phone discussing all aspects of life from family<br />

to business and which has continued to build upon our strong<br />

partnership over the past 16 years.” Edwards says.<br />

Mr Sabo himself echoes the sentiment; he told <strong>Jeweller</strong>: “For<br />

our positioning as a leading international premium brand,<br />

we rely on strong partnerships. In Australia, with Duraflex,<br />

we have had a powerful partner at our side for many years,<br />

enabling us to continue a trusting and successful cooperation<br />

with the specialist trade and our online shop presence locally.”<br />

He says that while the success of the Charm Club collection<br />

was once the key to Thomas Sabo’s internationalisation, the<br />

brand today appeals to a much wider audience.<br />

“We have grown with our customers and are now firmly<br />

established internationally in the premium jewellery<br />

Thomas Sabo<br />

Founder<br />

"We have grown with<br />

our customers and are<br />

now firmly established<br />

internationally in the<br />

premium jewellery<br />

segment for both men<br />

and women."<br />

Aurore Merlot<br />

Creative Director<br />

"At Thomas Sabo we<br />

are most inspired by<br />

real people and their<br />

emotions, from all<br />

over the world. That’s<br />

why we want to create<br />

a new world with every<br />

collection to convey a<br />

message."<br />

Phil Edwards<br />

Managing director,<br />

Duraflex Group<br />

"DGA continues our<br />

exceptional long-term<br />

relationship of working<br />

closely and personally<br />

with Mr Sabo who<br />

remains the owner and<br />

key decision-maker for<br />

the brand."<br />

segment for both men and women. Nevertheless, the<br />

Charm Club continues to play a central role in our brand<br />

world until today: we appeal to young target groups in<br />

particular and can also react to trends and introduce new<br />

products at short notice,” Mr Sabo said.<br />

He adds that one of the cornerstones in the company’s<br />

success is that it remains a privately-owned company, “which<br />

often allows us to act faster than the competition, especially in<br />

uncertain times.”<br />

Indeed, Thomas Sabo the company has<br />

also weathered the storm while many of<br />

its US and European competitors have fallen by<br />

the wayside. While many upstart brands took on<br />

venture capital-finding and / or were acquired by<br />

larger companies, Mr Sabo remains the founder<br />

and owner of the company that he started.<br />

“My vision to enable people throughout the world to<br />

purchase high-end items of jewellery in all price segments<br />

is what drives us all. The demand for branded and<br />

collectable jewellery was truly ignited in 2006 and has<br />

continued with a strong trajectory worldwide and in the<br />

local Australian market.<br />

“Globally, we were one of the pioneers here and were,<br />

therefore, able to further drive the international expansion of<br />

the brand”, Mr Sabo says.<br />

Edwards says, “The fundamental strategy with the new Iconic<br />

Collection is to re-ignite the core DNA of the brand, which will<br />

provide a unique opportunity for some of our original stockists<br />

to re-join the world of Thomas Sabo and many loyal and<br />

faithful consumers to re-engage with the brand.”<br />

The collection revisits the unique mix of glamour, rock ‘n’<br />

roll and nostalgia. It will include the signature high heel,<br />

red lipstick and handbag charms as well as the winged<br />

heart, silver feathers and wrapped wing pendants.<br />

While we know Ralf Lauren famously said, “Fashion is<br />

transient, trends come and go”, it was Jonathan Swift in<br />

the 1700s who said, “Everything old is new again”.<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 45


Unwrap what’s new!<br />

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ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />

Start Afresh Special<br />

READY<br />

<strong>2022</strong><br />

Get <strong>2022</strong> ready, as lockdowns lift and streets fill with<br />

shoppers again. <strong>Jeweller</strong> has worked with suppliers<br />

for a marketing and advertising promotion to help<br />

you prepare for the trading ahead. Build foot traffic<br />

and entice your customers with something new!


Ready <strong>2022</strong> | <strong>2022</strong> START AFRESH BUYING GUIDE<br />

Australian Diamond<br />

Trading Corporation (ADTC)<br />

Set in 18-carat yellow gold<br />

Argyle Near Colourless halo<br />

set, the Aussie Collection<br />

features round and fancy cut<br />

Australian Argyle champagne<br />

and centre stones.<br />

adtc.com.au<br />

Ania Haie<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

A daily jewellery must-have, this solid<br />

14-carat gold mini padlock paired<br />

with the delicately-crafted gold chain<br />

provides a stunning accent to your<br />

everyday look. A simple yet stunning<br />

aesthetic piece that matches any style.<br />

aniahaie.com.au<br />

Blush Pink Diamonds<br />

SAMS Group Australia<br />

Highlighting the beauty<br />

and brilliance of Australian<br />

Argyle pink diamonds, the<br />

Blush Yuriko Set elegantly<br />

showcases simple yet stunning<br />

heart-shaped pieces made of<br />

18-carat rose and white gold.<br />

A wonderful addition to your<br />

jewellery collection.<br />

pinkkimberley.com.au<br />

Calvin Klein<br />

MGDL<br />

The perfect mix of sport and<br />

luxury, this watch is designed<br />

for the modern man who wants<br />

style and function. With a light<br />

gold steel case and black dial,<br />

it's a modern classic. Whether<br />

you're headed to the office or<br />

the gym, this watch will help<br />

you look your best.<br />

mgdldistribution.com.au<br />

Cartmer <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

cartmer.com.au<br />

Trade Account clients can access our<br />

large supply of finished jewellery in our<br />

Dymocks Building showroom. Head to<br />

our website, cartmer.com.au, to see our<br />

large range of jewellery from modern<br />

to art deco designs and open a Trade<br />

Account with us today. We also offer<br />

custom design quotes to supply you with<br />

any finished jewellery item or design<br />

remake in 30-40 days.<br />

Couture Kingdom<br />

From Couture Kingdom’s debut<br />

collection under licence from The<br />

Coca-Cola Company, are these<br />

glistening drop earrings. Featuring<br />

a chic take on the classic Coca-Cola<br />

can of the nostalgic 90’s, these<br />

earrings are part of the 44 piece,<br />

Refreshing Edge Collection. This<br />

collaboration has resulted in a highly<br />

detailed, bold, fresh and energetic<br />

collection. The most perfect way for<br />

fans and collectors of this globally<br />

iconic brand to wear their passion.<br />

couturekingdom.com<br />

Cudworth<br />

Cudworth Enterprises<br />

Australia’s largest wholesaler<br />

of men’s fashion jewellery<br />

introduces our Tyre tread<br />

Collection in Ion plated Black. The<br />

collection features cufflinks, dog<br />

tag pendant & chain, cuff/bangle<br />

& ring. Also available in Sand<br />

blasted Stainless Steel.<br />

cudworthenterprises.com/<br />

product-category/cudworthstainless-steel<br />

48 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


<strong>2022</strong> START AFRESH BUYING GUIDE | Ready <strong>2022</strong><br />

Athan Imports<br />

athan.com.au<br />

Specialising in quality<br />

Italian-made gold chains<br />

and tennis mounts since<br />

1999. Contact our team<br />

of experts on (03) 9663<br />

2321 with any enquiries.<br />

Coach<br />

MGDL<br />

This Coach watch is the<br />

epitome of elegance and<br />

luxury. The sleek design is<br />

enhanced with a lustrous<br />

mother-of-pearl dial and<br />

glittering crystal markers<br />

that stand out from the rest.<br />

mgdldistribution.com.au<br />

Coeur de Lion Germany<br />

Timesupply<br />

This Coeur de Lion layered<br />

drop necklace and elegant<br />

drop earrings offer a<br />

distinctive vibe unique<br />

to German jewellery<br />

craftmanship. Adorned with<br />

shimmering Crystal Pearls<br />

and Swarovsky Crystals –<br />

elegant pieces worth having.<br />

coeurdelionjewellery.com.au<br />

Devino<br />

Devino's bridal collection<br />

showcases 18-carat gold<br />

ring and pendant pieces<br />

set with diamonds and<br />

clustered 4.5 to 6mm<br />

Akoya pearls. The exquisite<br />

Akoya pearls are ideal for<br />

the set due to its unique<br />

and exceptional lustre.<br />

devino.com<br />

Diamonds by DGA<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

Discover simplicity and<br />

beauty in these new<br />

diamond initial necklaces.<br />

Each 9-carat gold pendant<br />

features a single diamond<br />

initial pendant attached to<br />

a finely crafted cable chain.<br />

dgau.com.au<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 49


Ready <strong>2022</strong> | <strong>2022</strong> START AFRESH BUYING GUIDE<br />

Ellendale Diamonds<br />

ellendalediamonds.com.au<br />

Travel back in time with this<br />

opulent trilogy cluster ring in<br />

18-carat white and rose gold. A<br />

1-carat oval diamond sits at the<br />

centre surrounded by 19 round cut<br />

white diamonds. Two 0.15-carat<br />

pear-cut with 14 0.15-carat Argyle<br />

pinks complement the piece<br />

with additional 14 round white<br />

diamonds set into the shoulder.<br />

Grown Diamonds<br />

growndiamonds.com.au<br />

One of Australia's largest<br />

stockists of Lab-Created Diamonds,<br />

with over 1800 stones available in<br />

Australia and a database of over<br />

50,000 stones. We specialise in GIA,<br />

IGI and GCAL certified diamonds<br />

as well as melee, small goods and<br />

matching pairs in fancy shapes.<br />

Furla<br />

Designa Accessories<br />

The FURLA Cosy gold bracelet<br />

is the latest addition to the<br />

collection. The 32mm gold tone<br />

case and bracelet matches<br />

perfectly with the soft champagne<br />

colour dial which features the<br />

signature Furla Arch logo in the<br />

upper half of the dial and reflected<br />

in the lower half for an elegant and<br />

fun piece to complement any look.<br />

designaaccessories.com.au<br />

Exclusive Distributor of Tommy Hilfiger watches in<br />

Australia & New Zealand<br />

Ph: +61 (3) 9372 1122<br />

info@mgdl.com.au<br />

Hugo Boss<br />

Cudworth Enterprises<br />

The new <strong>2022</strong> Collection of<br />

Hugo Boss writing Instruments<br />

& accessories has just been<br />

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the collection features ballpoint,<br />

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Accessories includes card<br />

wallets, umbrellas, blue tooth<br />

earbuds, speakers & keyrings.<br />

rmdistributors.com.au<br />

mgdldistribution.com.au


<strong>2022</strong> START AFRESH BUYING GUIDE | Ready <strong>2022</strong><br />

Versatile and vivacious,<br />

the square 18-carat W/R<br />

gold cluster earrings feature<br />

18 0.27-carat Argyle pinks<br />

surrounded by 32 0.48-carat,<br />

while the round earrings are<br />

set with 14 0.168-carat Argyle<br />

pinks with 24 round cut<br />

0.35-carat white diamonds.<br />

The 18-carat W/R gold<br />

double halo ring features a<br />

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Argyle pink diamonds, with an<br />

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with 12 0.205-carat tapering<br />

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It is complemented<br />

with an 18-carat W/R<br />

gold cluster earrings<br />

adorned with 24<br />

0.216-carat Argyle<br />

pinks and 2 0.204-carat<br />

dazzling diamonds, set<br />

with an outer halo of 40<br />

0.216 carats.<br />

Evolve<br />

Finely crafted from solid silver<br />

with gold and black enamel<br />

accents, the Compass Necklace<br />

(on a 45cm fine cable chain)<br />

and matching stud earrings are<br />

part of Evolve's new Nautical<br />

Collection. Symbolising<br />

direction and progression,<br />

these pieces represent our<br />

innate ability to find north, and<br />

maintain a positive path forward.<br />

evolve-jewellery.co.nz/<br />

collections/nautical<br />

Guess<br />

Designa Accessories<br />

The GUESS Crown Jewel Purple<br />

Iridescent Case Dial Bracelet is the<br />

crown jewel in GUESS Watches'<br />

latest collection. Featuring two rows<br />

of crystals set in a 36mm bezel case,<br />

and a matte finish in our signature<br />

violet iridescent plating. Also<br />

available in yellow and rose gold.<br />

designaaccessories.com.au<br />

Hugo Boss<br />

MGDL<br />

Perfect for the man who wants to<br />

add a touch of vintage cool to his<br />

everyday look. This laid-back design<br />

features signature BOSS flair, with<br />

a dual time movement and date<br />

function. The watch is secured<br />

with a stainless-steel bracelet with<br />

a contrasting colour finish on the<br />

bezel and outer dial ring.<br />

mgdldistribution.com.au<br />

JAG<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

The gun metal grey watch<br />

features a sleek band<br />

with gold accents on<br />

the multi-function dial.<br />

With Japanese 6-hand,<br />

date movement, 12/24hr<br />

time, 60 min Chrono,<br />

Tachymeter besel function<br />

and full lumen display.<br />

dgau.com.au/jag<br />

Labanda<br />

Servicing both<br />

the watch<br />

and jewellery<br />

industries,<br />

Labanda is an<br />

Australian supplier<br />

specialising in<br />

quality tools<br />

and equipment,<br />

with exceptional<br />

service.<br />

labanda.com.au<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 51


Ready <strong>2022</strong> | <strong>2022</strong> START AFRESH BUYING GUIDE<br />

Mark McAskill <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

The New Pink Caviar pendant and earring<br />

set features Argyle pink and brilliant white<br />

diamonds. These classic and elegant pieces<br />

deserve to be cared for and treasured.<br />

markmcaskill.com.au<br />

Miamor<br />

Miamor's diamond tennis<br />

bracelets feature fine quality<br />

natural diamonds, always set<br />

in 18-carat white or yellow<br />

gold. All sizes available.<br />

dor@miamordiamonds.com.au<br />

Moore Jewels<br />

What bride doesn’t love to<br />

wear pearls on her Wedding<br />

Day? We have beautiful sterling<br />

silver pieces for every bride and<br />

bridesmaid. Lustrous white<br />

freshwater pearls on rhodium<br />

plated sterling silver hooks,<br />

hoops or studs for her ears<br />

and elegant necklaces to add a<br />

modern or traditional touch.<br />

moorejewels.com.au<br />

Exclusive Distributor of Olivia Burton watches in<br />

Australia & New Zealand<br />

Ph: +61 (3) 9372 1122<br />

info@mgdl.com.au<br />

Natural Gem Exchange<br />

We stock a large range of<br />

natural sapphires, purposefully<br />

picked for engagement rings.<br />

Royal and Cornflower Blue<br />

Sapphires, Pink and Yellow<br />

Sapphires, and rare beauties<br />

such as Padparadscha and<br />

Peach Sapphires.<br />

naturalgemexchange.com<br />

mgdldistribution.com.au


Maxum<br />

Designa Accessories<br />

Built for extreme conditions, the<br />

MAXUM Spectre is the latest addition<br />

to our signature series. It sports a cool<br />

ice-pink lens and pushers punctuate<br />

the matte black finish on the 50mm<br />

case and strap. With multiple time<br />

zones, analogue movement and digital<br />

display, chronograph, alarm, and<br />

countdown timer.<br />

designaaccessories.com.au<br />

Millennium Chain<br />

Australian leading wholesaler, specialising in<br />

manufacturing 9ct and 18ct yellow gold, rose gold<br />

and white gold. Machine made and hand made,<br />

any kind, chains and bracelets, bangles and<br />

findings. Suppliers to retailers and wholesalers.<br />

millenniumchain.com.au<br />

Morris & Watson<br />

Morris and Watson produce an<br />

extensive range of fabricated<br />

stock gauge, round, half round,<br />

comfort fit, bangle, and sharp<br />

square wire. Visit the Fabrication<br />

tab on the Morris and Watson<br />

website to learn more about<br />

the sizes and alloys available to<br />

purchase from our Brisbane,<br />

Sydney, and Auckland offices.<br />

morrisandwatson.com<br />

O’Neils Affiliated<br />

At O’Neils Affiliated we<br />

pride ourselves in bringing<br />

an extraordinary selection<br />

of gemstones to the<br />

Australian jewellery trade.<br />

From the finest rubies,<br />

sapphires and emeralds<br />

to semi-precious stones,<br />

be assured that there is<br />

something at O’Neils for<br />

everyone!<br />

oagems.com<br />

Proudly distributed by<br />

(02) 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


Ready <strong>2022</strong> | <strong>2022</strong> START AFRESH BUYING GUIDE<br />

O’Neils Affiliated<br />

We facilitate one<br />

of the largest ever<br />

shipments of emeralds<br />

at O’Neils Affiliated!<br />

From calibrated stock<br />

to large statement<br />

stones, we offer an<br />

outstanding selection<br />

to choose from.<br />

oagems.com<br />

Palloys<br />

palloys.com<br />

ReadyMade by Palloys is the<br />

only jewellery range where you are<br />

guaranteed our products are crafted<br />

from 100%-certified Australian Gold.<br />

We have an extensive library of<br />

designs for wedding bands, so you<br />

can accurately provide quotes to<br />

your customers immediately and<br />

guarantee next day shipping.<br />

Pink Kimberley<br />

SAMS Group Australia<br />

pinkkimberley.com.au<br />

Featuring an exquisite<br />

princess cut Argyle pink<br />

diamond, The Kimberley<br />

Satine Ring is surrounded<br />

by a triple halo of pink and<br />

white diamonds, set in<br />

18-carat Rose and White<br />

Gold for the ultimate<br />

statement piece.<br />

Exclusive Distributor of BOSS watches in<br />

Australia & New Zealand<br />

Ph: +61 (3) 9372 1122<br />

info@mgdl.com.au<br />

Police<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

The Gotham City edition comes with<br />

a radiant backlight feature inside a<br />

black plated stainless-steel case.<br />

The legendary Bat Symbol lights up<br />

across the dark honeycomb dial. A<br />

prominent crown is placed at the<br />

4-hour position and is protected by<br />

the addition of a functional metal<br />

clasp. The watch is finished with a<br />

soft touch black silicon strap with<br />

The Bat Symbol engraved on metal<br />

hardware on each side.<br />

dgau.com.au/police<br />

mgdldistribution.com.au


<strong>2022</strong> START AFRESH BUYING GUIDE | Ready <strong>2022</strong><br />

Olivia Burton<br />

MGDL<br />

This enchanting Olivia<br />

Burton watch is sure to add<br />

some buzz to your everyday<br />

look. With its rainbow-hued<br />

dial and crystal-embellished<br />

wings, it's a whimsical way<br />

to stay on time. With its<br />

delicate engravings and<br />

beautiful rose gold mesh<br />

strap, it's sure to turn heads.<br />

mgdldistribution.com.au<br />

Packamate<br />

Your one-stop shop for packaging component supply<br />

and solutions. Packamate Limited is a well-established<br />

manufacturer and wholesaler of quality packaging<br />

for various sectors such as jewellery, shopping bags,<br />

watches, writing instruments, spectacles, beverage,<br />

electronic devices, display, watch winder, cabinets,<br />

cosmetic, jewellery collectors and wine collectors.<br />

packamate.com<br />

Engagement rings<br />

in our ReadyMade<br />

collection are crafted<br />

from 100% ethically<br />

sourced and certified<br />

Australian Gold. Palloys<br />

can supply a fully<br />

finished engagement<br />

ring, ready to set with<br />

a centre stone, or a<br />

fully finished diamond<br />

wedding band ready to<br />

ship the next day!<br />

Peter W Beck<br />

pwbeck.com.au<br />

Dainty, stylish and adorned with<br />

shimmering diamonds of various sizes<br />

that are either set full-circle or halfway<br />

around the band. Stack them, mix,<br />

and match with other bands, use as<br />

eternity, wedding, dress, or anniversary<br />

rings. Contact Peter W Beck’s<br />

Customers Service for the full range.<br />

Each piece features a single Argyle pink diamond<br />

surrounded by white diamonds and smaller pink<br />

diamonds, set in 18-carat rose and white gold.<br />

Worn as a set or individually, the Kimberley Spring<br />

Magnolia Pendant and Splendour De Les Fleurs<br />

Earrings are elegant and classy.<br />

Be bold with the<br />

Peter W Beck Zirconium<br />

collection, which<br />

contrasts the midnight<br />

black of zirconium with<br />

gold or rose gold.<br />

Peter W Beck is an<br />

Australian-owned<br />

business that supplies<br />

an extensive range of<br />

products and services<br />

to the jewellery industry.<br />

Quinn Sterling Silver <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

Sarabol Trading<br />

We bring you exclusive, premium quality<br />

silver jewellery - this is our committment<br />

and dedication for the Quinn brand.<br />

We have a wide variety of new and<br />

premium products, assuring you<br />

of quality at par with the best in the<br />

Australian market.<br />

0412 286 387<br />

RAS Spain<br />

Timesupply<br />

Featuring the beautiful and<br />

colourful new collection from<br />

RAS, the Alba Collection offers<br />

organic shapes with a vibrant<br />

pattern in reds, oranges and<br />

purples in brushed gold finish.<br />

Handmade in Spain.<br />

timesupply.com.au<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 55


Rosefield<br />

Designa Accessories<br />

A modern-day classic,<br />

The Pearl Edit delights<br />

with natural elements of<br />

mother-of-pearl in the<br />

dial and cabachon on the<br />

crown, neatly presented<br />

in a pristine yellow goldplated<br />

case, and perfectly<br />

matched with a luxurious<br />

seven piece stainless<br />

steel bracelet. Available in<br />

gold, silver, and rose gold<br />

duo-tone.<br />

designaaccessories.com.au<br />

Sapphire Export<br />

sapphirexport.com<br />

We have an expansive offering of white<br />

and fancy colour diamond melee and<br />

certified single stones.<br />

We also offer a finely curated selection<br />

of quality coloured gemstones, including<br />

sapphire, ruby, emerald, tourmaline,<br />

aquamarine, morganite, and more.<br />

SDK Gemstones<br />

sdkgemstones.com.au<br />

Natural Ruby<br />

We also stock a wide range<br />

of rubies in all shapes and<br />

sizes, including Burmese and<br />

African rubies.<br />

Exclusive Distributor of Coach watches in<br />

Australia & New Zealand<br />

SDK Gemstones<br />

For your precious and semiprecious<br />

gemstone needs, you<br />

can never go wrong with SDK<br />

Gemstones. We have a wide<br />

range of precious gemstones<br />

and semi-precious gemstones.<br />

Some of which include Ceylon<br />

sapphire, Australian sapphire,<br />

ruby, emerald, alexandrite,<br />

paraiba tourmaline. Large<br />

range of semi-precious<br />

gemstones also available.<br />

sdkgemstones.com.au<br />

Ph: +61 (3) 9372 1122<br />

info@mgdl.com.au<br />

mgdldistribution.com.au


<strong>2022</strong> START AFRESH BUYING GUIDE | Ready <strong>2022</strong><br />

SAI Imports<br />

For over 15 years we have<br />

continued to grow our reputation<br />

as a genuine Australian<br />

wholesaler of quality jewellery,<br />

extensive ranges and our<br />

commitment to customer service.<br />

Our ranges cover all<br />

demographics, from traditional<br />

and classic styles to new and<br />

on-trend fashions of the now.<br />

saiimports.com.au<br />

Salt & Pepper Diamonds<br />

Salt and pepper diamonds are<br />

mined,natural diamonds without<br />

treatment. The heavily-included<br />

nature of Salt and Pepper<br />

Diamonds means they are all<br />

unique and incomparable. They<br />

have become a popular and<br />

economical choice for Millennial<br />

engagement rings and everyday<br />

jewellery alike.<br />

saltandpepperdiamonds.com.au<br />

In addition to a wide<br />

selection of loose<br />

diamonds and fine<br />

gemstones, Sapphire<br />

Export offers a cast<br />

jewellery range with<br />

thousands of engagement,<br />

wedding, and dress styles.<br />

Looking for that<br />

personalised touch? We<br />

also offer complete CAD<br />

services.<br />

Sapphire Dreams<br />

SAMS Group Australia<br />

sapphiredreams.com.au<br />

These 18-carat White Gold<br />

Pendants feature sapphires<br />

in an extensive colour range,<br />

uniquely designed in floral<br />

arrangements, complimented<br />

by white diamonds. The<br />

Floral Carnival Pendant and<br />

Wildflower Fields Pendant are<br />

sure to add a hint of luxury to<br />

any look or style.<br />

Natural Sapphire<br />

We specialise in Ceylon<br />

Sapphire and source<br />

our stones direct from<br />

Sri Lanka. We stock<br />

stones of all sizes- from<br />

the smallest to 8-carat<br />

special stones. We also<br />

stock Padparadscha<br />

sapphire, yellow, green,<br />

orange, red and colour<br />

change sapphire.<br />

The Soigné Collection<br />

is an incredible range of<br />

18-carat white gold rings,<br />

showcasing exquisite<br />

Australian sapphires in a<br />

trilogy setting, enhanced by<br />

white diamonds. This threestone<br />

setting is timeless<br />

and elegant, elevated by the<br />

beautiful colour range of<br />

Australian sapphires.<br />

Stow Lockets<br />

Link Wholesale<br />

Beautifully handcrafted<br />

and customisable,<br />

STOW Lockets allows<br />

the wearer to create a<br />

one-of-a-kind charm<br />

locket that's uniquely<br />

theirs. Featuring a variety<br />

of gold and silver locket<br />

styles with a selection of<br />

over 100 gorgeous petite<br />

charms to enclose, Stow<br />

Lockets makes a truly<br />

meaningful, personalised<br />

jewellery piece.<br />

stowlockets.com<br />

These Australian sapphires<br />

are a beautiful piece of<br />

Australian heritage, available<br />

in a variety of cuts and<br />

extensive colour range . Not<br />

only can they be used in<br />

custom jewellery, these loose<br />

sapphires are spiritually<br />

meaningful, symbolic of<br />

loyalty, good health, and love.<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 57


Stuller<br />

stuller.com<br />

The 14-carat yellow gold<br />

.08 CTW Natural Diamond<br />

Aries Zodiac Necklace<br />

features natural round<br />

diamonds symbolising the<br />

constellation on a 16 to 18-<br />

inch chain. Available in all<br />

12 zodiac designs.<br />

The Battery Man<br />

thebatteryman.com.au<br />

Looking for new ways<br />

to increase business? Try<br />

a Seiko Watch Battery<br />

Replacement Service. Ask us<br />

about out Seiko Starter Kits.<br />

Thomas Sabo<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

thomassabo.com.au<br />

Open your heart to the sea with<br />

the stylised scallop shell that stirs<br />

the senses: Inspired by the perfect<br />

shape of its natural model, the<br />

Charm pendant consists of two<br />

parts and surprises on the inside<br />

with a small, shimmering cultured<br />

freshwater pearl on one side.<br />

The three-dimensional and richly<br />

detailed design symbolises the<br />

beauty of the ocean. The jewellery<br />

can be combined in many ways<br />

thanks to the lobster clasp.<br />

Exclusive Distributor of Calvin Klein watches in<br />

Australia & New Zealand<br />

Ph: +61 (3) 9372 1122<br />

info@mgdl.com.au<br />

Tateossian<br />

Cudworth Enterprises<br />

British designed jewellery<br />

redefining jewellery since<br />

1990. Tateossian is one of<br />

the UK leading brands for<br />

men’s jewellery around<br />

the world. Collections<br />

include in Sterling Silver<br />

Italian leather & semiprecious<br />

stone bracelets,<br />

Cufflinks, Tie clips ,<br />

lapel pins & watches.<br />

Website coming soon<br />

rmdistributors.com.<br />

rmdistributors.com<br />

mgdldistribution.com.au


<strong>2022</strong> START AFRESH BUYING GUIDE | Ready <strong>2022</strong><br />

The 14-carat yellow<br />

cultured Freshwater Pearl<br />

and Natural Multi-Gemstone<br />

Ring comes with a 3mm<br />

0.2-carat freshwater polished<br />

pearl for the centrepiece<br />

with a ruby, emerald, pink<br />

tourmaline and blue sapphire<br />

set in-line.<br />

Featured in the May 2021<br />

issue of Harper's BAZAAR<br />

magazine, these 14-carat<br />

Yellow Cultured Freshwater<br />

Pearl Huggie Hoop Earrings<br />

are a standout at the 302<br />

Fine Jewelry's Essentials<br />

Collection.<br />

9 piece screwdriver<br />

set. Made in Europe.<br />

Includes replacement<br />

set. German-made by<br />

BecoTechnic.<br />

NEW Seiko S880<br />

digital multi-tester for<br />

watches and clocks.<br />

It measures battery<br />

voltage, resistance<br />

of coil block, light<br />

segmentation and the<br />

current consumptions<br />

of circuit block or<br />

movement module.<br />

Easy to use.<br />

Handcrafted from<br />

925 Sterling Silver,<br />

share the beauty<br />

of the seas with<br />

this playful, threedimensional<br />

diver<br />

pendant in delicate<br />

shades of blue.<br />

Inspired by a unique<br />

mix of glamour and<br />

nostalgia, relive the most<br />

memorable motifs of all<br />

time such as the winged<br />

heart, silver feathers and<br />

wrapped wing pendants,<br />

rings and earrings.<br />

Timex<br />

Designa Accessories<br />

Since 1987, TAITO’s SPACE<br />

INVADERS influenced street culture<br />

fashion and art. Making a comeback<br />

in <strong>2022</strong>, Timex T80 x SPACE<br />

INVADERS features the renowned<br />

pixelated alien “Invaders” across<br />

the 34mm dial, a limited edition<br />

caseback and packaging, signature<br />

Timex INDIGLO technology, and<br />

the nostalgic SPACE INVADERS<br />

soundtrack at the push of a button.<br />

Available in black, silver, and gold.<br />

designaaccessories.com.au<br />

Tommy Hilfiger<br />

MGDL Distribution<br />

This Tommy Hilfiger watch is the perfect<br />

accessory for any outfit. The bold, detailed design<br />

is sure to make a statement, while the two-tone<br />

bracelet ensures a comfortable fit. With its multifunctional<br />

movement, this watch is perfect for<br />

any occasion.<br />

mgdldistribution.com.au<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 59


Ready <strong>2022</strong> | <strong>2022</strong> START AFRESH BUYING GUIDE<br />

TWM Co.<br />

twmco.com.au<br />

Featuring one of our designs from our two-tone<br />

range that fuses our creativity and fine craftsmanship<br />

to give our rings a unique character. The collection<br />

is available in 9-carat, 10-carat, 14-carat or 18-carat<br />

white, yellow and rose gold. Also available in silver,<br />

titanium, zirconium, platinum & palladium.<br />

UNOde50 Spain<br />

Timesupply<br />

The new Ikon Collection celebrates<br />

everyday objects, embracing the<br />

simplicity of form and function. Bracelets,<br />

necklaces, earrings, and rings combine<br />

conventionality with a bold and rebellious<br />

touch, in a quirky and unique design<br />

typical of the iconic UNOde50 style.<br />

Handmade in Spain.<br />

unode50.com.au<br />

Worth & Douglas<br />

Celebrate unique and<br />

distinctive tastes with ZiRO<br />

- The Black Ring. Crafted<br />

from durable Zirconium, the<br />

designer ring are sleek and<br />

classy that will surely entice<br />

and appeal to the senses.<br />

wdrings.com.au<br />

280+<br />

4<br />

Product<br />

Categories<br />

Distinct Category<br />

Sections<br />

520<br />

500+<br />

Individual Industry<br />

Suppliers<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y &<br />

Watch Brands<br />

Supplier - Are you and your products listed?<br />

Retailer – Get your copy?<br />

Email info@jewellermagazine.com<br />

World Shiner<br />

Alongside its extensive<br />

collection of white, pink,<br />

yellow, and champagne<br />

diamonds, World Shiner<br />

proudly introduces a new<br />

range of Italian-made<br />

jewellery with old-cut<br />

diamonds. The collection<br />

includes rings, earrings and<br />

pendants.<br />

worldshiner.com<br />

60 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong><br />

www.jewellermagazine.com


TWM Co offers an extensive range<br />

of classic men’s and ladies wedding<br />

bands. Proudly Australian-made,<br />

each ring is produced with the finest<br />

quality materials to ensure we<br />

deliver the highest standard possible.<br />

TW Steel<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

Made with a brushed case with shiny<br />

bezel, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, dark<br />

blue dial with race team logo, performance<br />

tachymeter and satin brushed steel hands<br />

filled with white luminova. The matching<br />

blue leather strap with black perforation<br />

features heavy yellow stitching plus<br />

black brushed buckle, made for racing<br />

champions. Comes in 10 ATM models with<br />

3 years worldwide warranty.<br />

twsteel.com.au<br />

Wolski's<br />

0411 331 777<br />

Direct suppliers of natural<br />

colour pink and blue Argyle<br />

diamonds. Single stones and<br />

pairs/matched sets are available.<br />

Argyle Certificates are provided<br />

for larger stones.<br />

Direct suppliers<br />

of natural<br />

gemstones,<br />

including sapphire,<br />

ruby, emerald,<br />

aquamarine,<br />

peridot, tanzanite,<br />

tourmaline, topaz,<br />

amethyst, citrine,<br />

rubellite, garnet,<br />

and more.<br />

by<br />

Proudly distributed by<br />

02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


BUSINESS<br />

Strategy<br />

The social media platform<br />

you should probably quit<br />

Many people believe that social media is the best thing that’s happened to businesses,<br />

but that’s not entirely the case. Here’s why BRIDGET BROWN thinks otherwise.<br />

Do I hate social media? No. Do I think<br />

small businesses need social media?<br />

Also no.<br />

That’s a wild perspective for a small<br />

business marketing specialist. It also<br />

seems hypocritical, because I use social<br />

media, and the vast majority of my<br />

clients use social media.<br />

The question though, is whether they<br />

need social media. Need is very different<br />

than want or use.<br />

First, a caveat<br />

Some small businesses may indeed<br />

decide they need social media, especially<br />

if you’re selling products. In that case,<br />

social media might even be foundational<br />

to your business. However, this means<br />

you’ve turned your social media into a<br />

sales channel, which is quite different.<br />

I think of my local stationery shop and<br />

its gorgeous Instagram feed. I often see<br />

something I want on their feed, and I buy<br />

it. I don’t need further conversion. That’s<br />

not social media marketing, that’s sales.<br />

If you sell high-ticket items, products<br />

that take further consultation, or<br />

services, social media is not a sales<br />

channel. It’s a marketing tactic, and<br />

at that point, it’s a nice-to-have, not a<br />

necessity.<br />

If it’s working, keep doing it<br />

If your social media is bringing in the<br />

business, then of course keep at it. If<br />

you enjoy using social media, then, by all<br />

means, leverage your social profiles to<br />

generate leads for your business.<br />

BUT! If you don’t enjoy or have time to<br />

use social media, then why on earth<br />

would you choose it as a marketing<br />

strategy? There are so many marketing<br />

strategies that no single small business<br />

can possibly use them all, so don’t waste<br />

time on those you dislike.<br />

In fact, I advise my clients to only use<br />

marketing tactics they like. There’s one<br />

social media platform, in particular, you<br />

need to quit right now if you don’t enjoy<br />

social media.<br />

How did I learn this?<br />

I used to be a runner. I even completed<br />

a handful of half marathons. No matter<br />

how much I trained, I never got much<br />

faster. The reason eventually dawned on<br />

me: I hate running.<br />

I created elaborate playlists, even<br />

carried candy on my long runs to reward<br />

myself for each kilometre logged. It<br />

never became more enjoyable, and I<br />

never became better.<br />

So I quit. Sorry if you were hoping<br />

for some ‘Remember the Titansstyle’<br />

inspiration, but that’s not what<br />

happened. What happened is, I found<br />

other fitness pursuits I like better, and<br />

they keep me healthy without making me<br />

miserable.<br />

If you don’t<br />

enjoy or have<br />

time to use<br />

social media,<br />

then why on<br />

earth would<br />

you choose it<br />

as a marketing<br />

strategy?<br />

Quit tweeting<br />

Unless you love tweeting, you should<br />

quit Twitter. This is especially so in the<br />

case of jewellery and fashion retailing.<br />

Twitter does not have a robust shopping<br />

platform like, for example, Instagram.<br />

The likelihood that someone in your<br />

target audience is there to buy, or even<br />

cultivate an affinity toward your work,<br />

is low. Twitter isn't designed for that.<br />

That's why it's the one platform I feel<br />

has more risk than benefit for small<br />

business.<br />

In particular, you can probably quit<br />

Twitter today. Almost no small business<br />

needs Twitter.<br />

Twitter is the one social media platform I<br />

feel has more risk than benefit for small<br />

businesses.<br />

There are five reasons:<br />

1. No one wants to follow you<br />

2. They DO want to yell at you<br />

3. You’re only one tweet away<br />

from disaster<br />

4. You need to tweet a LOT for<br />

it to be worthwhile<br />

5. It doesn’t make you money<br />

If you’re on Twitter already, think about<br />

the people you follow. Most of us don’t<br />

follow businesses on Twitter unless<br />

we’re already raving fans.<br />

62 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Business Strategy<br />

Do you care what your dry cleaner or<br />

your gardener has to say on Twitter?<br />

Probably not!<br />

If they have something cool to show<br />

off, they’ll do that over on Instagram or<br />

TikTok.<br />

That's not to say that it’s compulsory<br />

for you to have Instagram or TikTok. No<br />

social media platform is a ‘must-have’.<br />

In fact, the stakes are higher than ever<br />

for being selective about where to have<br />

an online presence.<br />

A US report called ‘The 2020 National<br />

Customer Rage Study’ found that 55 per<br />

cent of angry shoppers head to social<br />

media to vent.<br />

The risk of this is especially high on<br />

Twitter because Twitter is designed for<br />

conversations.<br />

Twitter is for conversations. You have<br />

to build an amazing Twitter persona to<br />

get people to interact with a brand, like<br />

fast-food chain Wendy’s has done. Its<br />

followers actually try to get roasted.<br />

A labour of love is still labour<br />

First of all, you can tell the people<br />

behind Wendy’s account actually love<br />

social media. More importantly, it<br />

takes an entire team of people to make<br />

something like this happen.<br />

The Wendy’s social media team actually<br />

released a hip-hop album, mocking the<br />

brand’s competitors. That’s an effort<br />

level most small businesses could not<br />

sustain. Yet, it’s vital for businesses to<br />

keep a constant eye on their mentions.<br />

The number one way people interact<br />

with brands on Twitter is to publicly call<br />

them out on a problem, according to a<br />

2019 Australian study. Worse, a 2018<br />

study by MIT showed fake news is 70 per<br />

cent more likely to be retweeted.<br />

That means your reputation can be<br />

affected more easily on Twitter which is<br />

why it requires 24/7 diligence that some<br />

other social platforms do not require.<br />

People try to use automation or scripted<br />

answers to get around that.<br />

The best-case scenario when someone<br />

complains about your business (or if you<br />

tweet something stupid), is that no one<br />

else notices the tweet in their timeline<br />

before you correct it.<br />

This ‘best case scenario’ is another<br />

reason Twitter isn’t great for small<br />

business. The timeline goes by fast.<br />

Twitter means feeding the beast<br />

There is basically zero chance that<br />

someone who logs on at 5 pm will<br />

see what your brand tweeted at 9 am.<br />

That’s thousands of tweets ago in their<br />

timeline.<br />

You need to churn out content all day<br />

long in order to ensure your followers<br />

see it. This level of feeding the beast just<br />

isn’t feasible for most small teams, at<br />

least not for quality content.<br />

This brings me to my final reason to<br />

ditch Twitter. It doesn’t have nearly as<br />

much money-making potential as other<br />

marketing tactics.<br />

Think about it, if you have to pay<br />

someone to create click-worthy content<br />

that can be posted throughout the day,<br />

and that person also has to respond<br />

to other customer tweets, that are a<br />

significant cost to your business.<br />

If you manage to find someone who’ll do<br />

it for cheap, you’re unlikely to get quality<br />

content and more likely to get mistakes<br />

and brand faux pas.<br />

That’s why I object when people describe<br />

social media as ‘free’ and ‘organic’. It’s<br />

a huge time suck, so it’s far from free.<br />

WHY DUMP<br />

TWITTER?<br />

Risk<br />

It has more risk<br />

than benefit for<br />

small business<br />

Shame<br />

People interact<br />

with brands on<br />

Twitter to call<br />

them out<br />

No go<br />

Most people don’t<br />

follow businesses<br />

on Twitter<br />

Fake<br />

Fake news is 70<br />

per cent more<br />

likely to be<br />

retweeted.<br />

Plus, getting good engagement requires<br />

a ton of strategy and planning. That’s<br />

hardly organic.<br />

Marketing revenue source<br />

I’d be interested to examine the ROI<br />

of Wendy’s Twitter account. Do its<br />

followers see them troll someone on<br />

Twitter and get a hankering for a burger?<br />

I mean, sure, maybe. But it’s more likely<br />

that the reason behind their Twitter<br />

account is to cultivate a brand persona<br />

that Wendy’s is a cooler alternative to<br />

McDonald’s.<br />

Or perhaps the account’s purpose is to<br />

lure media attention for being so sassy.<br />

In other words, the Twitter account is a<br />

cost of doing business.<br />

Some organisations set up their<br />

marketing department as a cost centre,<br />

but don’t hold it accountable for raising<br />

revenue and/or making a profit.<br />

I think that’s a mistake. I believe<br />

marketing can and should be a revenue<br />

source. The only way to do this is to<br />

make sure the value of the leads you’re<br />

generating is higher than what you’re<br />

spending on marketing.<br />

And that’s why I remain skeptical about<br />

social media for small business. It’s very<br />

labour intensive to do well and can be<br />

expensive. You need to capture a lot of<br />

leads for marketing to be a profit centre.<br />

To me, the only marketing activities in<br />

which you should participate are the<br />

ones that turn a profit.<br />

BRIDGET BROWN is founder of<br />

Create That Copy & Marketing, a<br />

Canadian marketing firm focused on<br />

generating leads and increasing sales<br />

and revenue for small businesses. Visit:<br />

createthatcopy.com<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 63


BUSINESS<br />

Selling<br />

Six big ideas to increase sales<br />

Running a jewellery business is one thing and ensuring the business is adaptive to the changing<br />

times is another. KIZER & BENDER provide useful tips on using ideas to improve sales.<br />

When things were “normal” before<br />

the pandemic, customers shopped in<br />

strange patterns and their choices were<br />

not divided equally among retailers.<br />

That hasn’t changed much, so if you want<br />

to attract more customers you need to<br />

do more.<br />

You have competition everywhere vying<br />

for customers’ attention. What are you<br />

doing about it? Opening your doors is not<br />

enough, you need to be ready with events<br />

on your retail calendar.<br />

Plan events & promotions<br />

A ‘re-open’ open house is a good idea<br />

and so is a grand re-opening. Consider<br />

the holidays and plan for them. If you sell<br />

online or via social media, you also need<br />

to make a plan for them. Keep going and<br />

add events for each month of the year.<br />

Plan each event, buy products, as<br />

needed, and get your staff involved.<br />

Remember, in-store events do not<br />

automatically equate to having a sale,<br />

although that’s an option. You can do<br />

demos, seminars, trunk shows, pop-ups,<br />

supplier days – your options are endless.<br />

Retrain your staff<br />

You can’t do everything by yourself; you<br />

need a strong team to back you up.<br />

Be specific about what you need and<br />

upfront about what is required to do the<br />

job. Sanitising the store and reinforcing<br />

mask mandates may linger for a while<br />

and your staff must know what is<br />

expected of them.<br />

Don’t hold back, it’s time to sell. Hold<br />

training sessions about products<br />

and deliver exemplary customer<br />

service when you can't always see the<br />

customer’s face.<br />

Update your team frequently with what’s<br />

happening in-store and commit to a<br />

training schedule that lasts all year long.<br />

Adopt a ‘buddy system’ and partner new<br />

staff with seasoned pros to mentor them<br />

as they learn the business.<br />

Every jeweller should have a ‘Never Out’ list of stock.<br />

Create a ‘never out’ list<br />

Every jeweller should have a ‘Never Out’<br />

list of things you always have in stock.<br />

During peak times of the year, this list<br />

takes on an even larger significance<br />

when stock runs out and you realise<br />

these items can literally make or break<br />

a sale.<br />

Your POS system may create this list for<br />

you, but make sure to do frequent stock<br />

counts on the sales floor to ensure your<br />

list is correct.<br />

Sell gift cards<br />

Gift cards are your secret weapons.<br />

Yes, gift CARDS. That’s because a study<br />

found retailers who switch from paper<br />

gift certificates to plastic gift cards<br />

increase card sales from 35 per cent to<br />

50 per cent.<br />

There’s more: 55 per cent of gift card<br />

recipients take more than one shopping<br />

trip to spend the card’s balance– that’s<br />

good news.<br />

But beware, a gift card or certificate<br />

that’s presented in a boring paper sleeve<br />

or envelope doesn’t look like much, even<br />

if it’s for big bucks, so package your gift<br />

cards with a unique look to what you<br />

sell.<br />

Since many shoppers prefer contactless<br />

transactions these days, offer electronic<br />

gift cards also.<br />

You’ll save more<br />

sales if you<br />

train staff to<br />

politely suggest<br />

an exchange<br />

or a gift card<br />

before offering a<br />

refund.<br />

Competitive return policies<br />

If your competitors accept returns and<br />

exchanges but your policy screams<br />

“NO!”, customers will go someplace else<br />

to shop. If you don’t have a return policy<br />

here’s a good place to start: “Returns<br />

and exchanges gladly accepted within ‘X’<br />

days. Your receipt guarantees it.”<br />

You’ll save more sales if you train staff<br />

to politely suggest an exchange or a gift<br />

card before offering a refund. Note that<br />

during the pandemic many retailers<br />

chose to extend return windows.<br />

Prepare for markdowns<br />

You have products sitting on shelves for<br />

the 60+ days your store was closed -<br />

probably even months before that - so, a<br />

clearance strategy is important. Packing<br />

stock away for sale next year is never a<br />

good idea and trying to sell past-season<br />

merchandise at the full price doesn’t<br />

look good, either.<br />

A markdown plan for every product<br />

line is a smart idea. You need to<br />

determine which merchandise will be<br />

discounted, by how much, how it will<br />

be signed (numbers work better than<br />

percentages), and where it will be<br />

displayed on the sales floor.<br />

Unless you are having a big sale,<br />

displaying clearance items near the<br />

back of the store, allow shoppers to pass<br />

through new product displays to get to it.<br />

Getting exhausted from reading this?<br />

Being a retail jeweller has always meant<br />

long hours, juggling tasks, and putting<br />

out fires. Add in selling online, social<br />

media marketplaces, and keeping<br />

updated on the pandemic gives you a lot<br />

of new things to do.<br />

Trust us, having a game plan makes it<br />

easier.<br />

RICH KIZER and GEORGANNE<br />

BENDER are retail strategists,<br />

authors and consultants. Visit:<br />

kizerandbender.com<br />

64 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


BUSINESS<br />

Management<br />

Seven tips for managing information overload<br />

Information overload was a problem a decade ago. Today it’s far worse; information never ends.<br />

KARYN GREENSTREET shares ideas on how to manage the ongoing issue.<br />

Have you ever had that disturbing feeling<br />

that trying to squeeze one more bit of<br />

information into your brain will render you<br />

senseless?<br />

That’s information overload, which causes<br />

distress and a loss of productivity. We’re so<br />

busy gathering information that we never<br />

get to completely implement all our great<br />

ideas.<br />

Worse, later on, we can’t seem to put our<br />

finger on the important information that<br />

we’ve gathered!<br />

Here’s more bad news: when you take<br />

in too much information, according to a<br />

Temple University study, you begin to make<br />

more errors and worse, make more bad<br />

decisions. Can your business really afford<br />

that lack of clear thinking? (Don’t get me<br />

started about how a hyper-connected<br />

lifestyle is bad for physical and emotional<br />

health!)<br />

Here are seven ways you can manage<br />

information overload and regain control of<br />

your brain, time and tasks.<br />

One: Remember the most important rule.<br />

You are in charge of your ‘To Do’ list.<br />

That’s the most important rule. You are<br />

in charge of your calendar and how much<br />

information you’re willing to process each<br />

day.<br />

Taking multiple classes at once or trying<br />

to read more than one book at a time<br />

is a recipe for information overload. It<br />

doesn’t give you any time to assimilate and<br />

implement. Be selective and base all your<br />

decisions on achieving your goals while<br />

mirroring your values.<br />

Two: Get things out of your head and onto<br />

paper.<br />

When absorbing new information, the<br />

brain naturally processes it, establishes<br />

connections, and applies it to real life.<br />

Trying to keep all that ‘thinking’ in your<br />

brain can make you feel muddled, anxious,<br />

and confused. Do a brain dump by writing<br />

down your ideas - even in a quick list<br />

format - which helps clear your mind.<br />

Taking a vacation from any information to get relief from overload.<br />

Three: Make a ‘Top 3 Action Items’ list<br />

Take the most recent class you’ve attended<br />

or a book you’ve read to start developing<br />

yourlist.<br />

Don’t create a massive ‘To Do’ list of<br />

every great idea from the class or book.<br />

Instead, pick the top three actions you can<br />

accomplish within a month and write down<br />

those tasks on your list. And once they’re<br />

done, you can always go back and choose<br />

three more.<br />

The point here is two-fold: start<br />

implementing what you’ve learned and<br />

do it in such a way that you don’t overload<br />

yourself.<br />

Four: Make the decision to make a<br />

decision.<br />

Sounds silly, right? However, if ideas and<br />

information are running around in your<br />

head and you cannot decide whether to<br />

act on them or ignore them, you sabotage<br />

yourself and fall into a perpetual state of<br />

overload.<br />

Stop doing that and instead, tell yourself,<br />

“Today I will make a decision,” then do it.<br />

You’ll feel better right away.<br />

Five: When drowning in information, stop<br />

piling more.<br />

It’s okay to stop watching the evening<br />

news, reading articles or checking social<br />

media sites several times a day. Each time<br />

you interact with an information delivery<br />

system, guess what?<br />

More information is shoved in your face.<br />

Ideas and<br />

information are<br />

running around<br />

in your head<br />

and you cannot<br />

decide whether<br />

to act on them<br />

or ignore them<br />

By taking a vacation – even a short one<br />

– from any information delivery system,<br />

you get immediate relief from information<br />

overload.<br />

Six: Use tools such as Evernote or One<br />

Note to have a central location for storing<br />

information.<br />

Storing information is crucial and<br />

retrieving it easily is even more important.<br />

That’s why I moved from paper notebooks<br />

to Evernote for storing notes when taking<br />

classes, reading books or perusing<br />

articles.<br />

Evernote lets you tag each note with<br />

keywords and sort them into folders. Notes<br />

are completely searchable, so you can<br />

have all the information and ideas readily<br />

available.<br />

I have Evernote on every PC and device<br />

— whenever I have an idea, I jot it down<br />

immediately. Because it’s on every<br />

computer, I can access information<br />

anytime and anywhere — so I don’t have to<br />

keep it in my brain.<br />

Seven: Do you have competing goals? Do it<br />

one at a time.<br />

For instance, today I wanted to accomplish<br />

three things: writing this article, creating<br />

my class schedule for the next nine<br />

months, and designing a class agenda for a<br />

new program.<br />

All these tasks are exciting and need to be<br />

done soon. They each require research<br />

and focus to process incoming information,<br />

but only one had a deadline- writing this<br />

article.<br />

So, I put the other things on the back<br />

burner and focused solely on writing this<br />

blog post. Once done, I’ll choose one of the<br />

remaining tasks to work on. You have to be<br />

willing to let go of some information, so you<br />

can focus on your priorities.<br />

KARYN GREENSTREET is president<br />

of Passion for Business, specialists<br />

in small business consulting. Visit:<br />

passionforbusiness.com<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 65


BUSINESS<br />

Marketing & PR<br />

Gain inspiration from these marketing gurus<br />

It pays to gain knowledge from experts who excel in their craft, especially in marketing.<br />

DENYSE DRUMMOND-DUNN shares nuggets of wisdom from some of today’s renowned marketers.<br />

When I need to set business goals I find<br />

it very useful to motivate people using<br />

inspirational quotations. If you want to<br />

motivate and inspire your team, you might<br />

enjoy this selection of some of the world’s<br />

greatest marketers.<br />

#1. “Strategy and timing are the Himalayas<br />

of marketing. Everything else is the<br />

Catskills!” - Al Ries.<br />

This refers to the Catskills in the<br />

Appalachian Mountains located in<br />

southeastern New York at an elevation<br />

of 1,270 metres. It is compared to the<br />

Himalayas, which includes some of the<br />

world’s highest peaks, including Mount<br />

Everest at 8,849 metres.<br />

To succeed in marketing, you have to scale<br />

the highest peaks of strategy and timing,<br />

and not settle with smaller hills.<br />

Question: Are you upgrading your<br />

marketing to meet the greater challenges?<br />

#2. “In marketing, only one strategy<br />

can’t miss – that is to market to your best<br />

customers first, your best prospects<br />

second and the rest of the world last.” -<br />

John Romero<br />

I love this quote because it’s about knowing<br />

and understanding your customers. Your<br />

best customers - however you define<br />

them - come first and your best prospects,<br />

second.<br />

Question: Can you identify your best<br />

customers and know everything you should<br />

about them?<br />

#3. “Business has only two functions<br />

– marketing and innovation.” - Milan<br />

Kundera<br />

This signifies the oft-forgotten importance<br />

of marketing to business. Those in sales or<br />

operations may complain, but if customers<br />

don’t know and love your brand, you don’t<br />

have a business.<br />

It’s that simple. Innovation is also vital<br />

because nowadays, customers are so<br />

demanding that we need to constantly<br />

upgrade.<br />

Metrics don’t mean much if it doesn’t resonate with customers.<br />

Question: Do you value marketing? If not,<br />

how can you get people to recognise value?<br />

#4. “The wise man doesn’t give the right<br />

answers, he poses the right questions.” -<br />

Claude Levi-Strauss<br />

Are you better at asking questions or<br />

answering them? Which is more important<br />

in your job and why? A leader doesn’t have<br />

all the answers but be surrounded by<br />

people who do.<br />

Question:Do you often ask the right<br />

questions? What more could you ask and<br />

from whom?<br />

#5. “People do not buy goods and<br />

services. They buy relations, stories, and<br />

magic.” - Seth Godin<br />

As products and services become<br />

more similar, brands that win are those<br />

that understand, engage and entertain<br />

customers. Build relationships by telling<br />

stories about your brand and add some<br />

magic that only your brand can deliver.<br />

Question: How are you sharing your stories<br />

and brand magic?<br />

#6. “A brand is no longer what we tell the<br />

consumer it is. It’s what consumers tell<br />

each other it is.” - Scott Cook<br />

As with the previous quote, be careful<br />

when sharing and telling. Brands should<br />

share interesting anecdotes and stories -<br />

things in which customers are interested.<br />

Innovation<br />

is also vital<br />

because<br />

nowadays,<br />

customers are<br />

so demanding<br />

that we need<br />

to constantly<br />

upgrade.<br />

strategy.<br />

Question: Does your website offer things<br />

that matter; content are stories and<br />

information the customer is interested to<br />

know?<br />

#7. “Make your marketing so useful people<br />

would pay for it.” - Jay Baer<br />

Upgrade your marketing after telling<br />

stories and building relationships by<br />

making it so useful that people would<br />

actually pay for it, such as eBooks, games,<br />

articles and memberships.<br />

Question: How useful is your marketing<br />

to customers? Are you recognising and<br />

appreciating their purchases?<br />

#8. “Awareness is fine, but advocacy will<br />

take your business to the next level.” - Joe<br />

Tripodi<br />

Awareness comes in many forms, such<br />

as advertising, activities and promotions,<br />

and social media posts. How do you<br />

measure it?<br />

The problem is that these metrics<br />

don’t mean much if it doesn’t resonate<br />

emotionally with customers. You’ll<br />

only know this is when people support,<br />

advocate and recommend your brand.<br />

Question: Do you know what marketing<br />

metrics to measure? What would make<br />

customers recommend you?<br />

#9. “No one is like you. No one in the past<br />

was like you. No one in the future will be<br />

like you.” - May Sarton<br />

You are unique with your gifts and talents.<br />

So, use them to make your business better.<br />

Treat your customers as if they were you.<br />

Discover your gifts and talents to succeed<br />

in your career. Avail of training to help you<br />

uncover it.<br />

Question: How do you like to be treated?<br />

Use that as your guide in treating your<br />

customers.<br />

DENYSE DRUMMOND-DUNN has<br />

more than 30 years’ management<br />

experience. She runs C3Centricity<br />

consultancy. Visit: c3centricity.com<br />

66 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


BUSINESS<br />

Logged On<br />

Back to basics: Digital marketing strategy 101<br />

Digital marketing is crucial for businesses, especially in an age where people spend more time online<br />

and visibility becomes a necessity to thrive in the market. BETH WALKER explains the basics.<br />

When I tell people I work in digital<br />

marketing, they often respond by saying<br />

they don’t want to sell their products or<br />

services on social media. The reaction is<br />

common and understandable.<br />

These days social media isn’t always very<br />

kind - both literally and figuratively - and<br />

the algorithms are unpredictable. It’s also<br />

why I like to say that a business should<br />

use social media as the ‘icing on a multilayered<br />

cake’ when planning for a wellrounded<br />

digital marketing strategy.<br />

Planning an effective strategy<br />

Digital marketing is a strategy of using<br />

the internet to market your business. The<br />

goal of your digital marketing strategy is<br />

to create and optimise information that<br />

helps your ideal customers understand<br />

everything about your business. This is a<br />

broad concept; so let’s take some time to<br />

break it down.<br />

Digital marketing includes content<br />

marketing, search engine optimisation<br />

(SEO), social media marketing, website<br />

development and design, pay-per-click<br />

(PPC) advertising, lead generation, lead<br />

nurturing, and email marketing.<br />

To ensure your digital marketing strategy is<br />

successful, it’s important to analyse each<br />

action so that you can know if your efforts<br />

are reaching your audience and if they are<br />

interested in what you are promoting.<br />

What is content marketing?<br />

Content is the most time-consuming and<br />

often the most expensive part of a digital<br />

marketing strategy. It’s how you engage<br />

and excite potential customers. When you<br />

provide valuable information and keep your<br />

audience informed about your company,<br />

you are effectively sending a message that<br />

your digital spaces add value.<br />

The internet creates a lot of ‘noise’ and<br />

content marketing helps you showcase<br />

your business as one which will not waste<br />

the time of customers.<br />

As a business owner, you know the best<br />

type of content your customers need<br />

To ensure your marketing is successful you must analyse each action<br />

and by using keywords, you can create<br />

important content. When you develop a<br />

library of business assets that are well<br />

written, authoritative, relevant, and attract<br />

your audience’s attention, you will quickly<br />

become known as an authority in your<br />

industry.<br />

Content marketing covers social media,<br />

lead generation, lead nurturing, and email<br />

marketing., with content marketing assets<br />

that include web page content, blog posts,<br />

infographics, whitepapers, E-books,<br />

videos, podcasts to name a few.<br />

Website design and development<br />

Your most important digital asset is your<br />

website. It’s vital for a website to convey a<br />

clear message and to be easy to navigate.<br />

You users should not be overlooked when<br />

finding a visually appealing design.<br />

It’s also necessary that your site follow<br />

SEO best practices, which can be<br />

accomplished with both on-page and<br />

technical SEO.<br />

When your website is fully optimised you<br />

have better opportunities to rank higher<br />

in searches. Incorporate SEO into your<br />

website content, meta descriptions, and<br />

titles for key terms your buyer persona is<br />

using to search for businesses like yours.<br />

Finally, you’ll need to integrate your<br />

website to Google Analytics and Search<br />

Console so you can ensure your site is<br />

found on Google.<br />

The best way<br />

to know who<br />

to trust is to<br />

see who is<br />

transparent.<br />

Who to trust?<br />

If you start searching for the terms and<br />

strategies highlighted in this article, you’ll<br />

find thousands of get-rich-quick pitches,<br />

hundreds of websites with people claiming<br />

to be experts, and a deluge of videos and<br />

webinars. Each will have a different way of<br />

doing things.<br />

So whom should you trust?<br />

The truth is, there are many great digital<br />

marketers with great ideas. The best<br />

way to know who to trust is to see who is<br />

transparent. If marketers are willing to<br />

teach you what they know to help you get<br />

started, that’s helpful.<br />

You’ll also want to deal with experts who<br />

can prove that their methods work with<br />

case studies. Will a digital agency tell you<br />

how blogging is helping them expand their<br />

own reach? Can they explain how their<br />

email marketing impacts growth?<br />

If a digital agency cannot transparently<br />

show that its strategies work, why should<br />

you waste your time with them?<br />

The next step<br />

Find resources that will help small<br />

business owners, writers, and<br />

entrepreneurs create a comprehensive<br />

digital marketing strategy, especially those<br />

that will help you understand and create a<br />

simplified digital marketing strategy.<br />

Learning the ropes will take the<br />

guesswork out of implementing current<br />

digital marketing best practices. You’ll<br />

remain confident that you aren’t missing<br />

steps like connecting your website to<br />

Google Analytics, developing a buyer<br />

persona, and establishing a multi-channel<br />

content marketing strategy.<br />

It is critical to find digital marketing<br />

experts who are available to help and<br />

answer questions at every step you take.<br />

BETH WALKER writes for US-based<br />

SMA Marketing, which specialises<br />

in digital marketing strategies for<br />

businesses. Visit: smamarketing.net<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 67


My Bench<br />

Nathan Kettle<br />

York <strong>Jeweller</strong>s. Penrith NSW<br />

Age 24 • Years in Trade 6 • Training Cert 3 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Manufacture at NSW TAFE • First job York <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

SIGNATURE PIECE<br />

'ALICIA' PENDANT NECKLACE<br />

Winner – Debuting Award<br />

JAA Australasian <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Awards 2019<br />

18-carat white gold pendant and earrings with<br />

diamonds and a cabochon sapphire. Either side of<br />

the pendant can be removed and attached to the studs<br />

to create articulating earrings while the sapphire can<br />

still be worn as a pendant on its own. This piece was<br />

my attempt to combine the classic art deco style with<br />

a modern, modular element.<br />

4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Opal, in particular<br />

black opal. The flashes of different colours in<br />

each stone that makes them all unique and all<br />

equally as mesmerising!<br />

4FAVOURITE METAL I love the colour of 18-carat<br />

yellow gold along with how enjoyable and satisfying<br />

it is to work with.<br />

4FAVOURITE TOOL Saw frame, whether I’m piercing<br />

out a large piece or putting the final touches on a<br />

sharp detail, my saw frame will always be my go to.<br />

4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY Tyler Bros<br />

Mini Clamps, a total game changer when working<br />

with smaller pieces.<br />

4BEST PART OF THE JOB Seeing a customer fall<br />

in love with the piece you made.<br />

4WORST PART OF THE JOB Cleaning customer’s<br />

jewellery, is the worst part of my job.<br />

4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER The master has<br />

failed more times than the apprentice has tried.<br />

Always learn from your mistakes and keep trying.<br />

4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Everyone has a<br />

different way of making a piece and there is no<br />

single right way. Seeing how another jeweller makes<br />

something can open your eyes and help you become<br />

a better jeweller.<br />

4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH<br />

Cutting my fingers with my saw. It happens more<br />

often than it should.<br />

4 LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE I love being able to<br />

take a concept or design and bring it to life with my<br />

own hands.<br />

68 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


OPINION<br />

Soapbox<br />

Tradition, technology and horse manure<br />

Change is never easy, especially for businesses that firmly believe in ‘tried and true’<br />

traditions in the face of disruptions. Floeting Diamond inventor IAN DOUGLAS explains<br />

why adaptability is vital to succeed in modern times.<br />

In 1898, an international urban planning<br />

conference in New York debated the major<br />

problem of horse manure pollution in<br />

major cities around the world. London was<br />

predicted to be buried under nine feet of<br />

manure in 50 years’ time.<br />

The world was in crisis. The solution was<br />

apparent, but not acknowledged. By 1912,<br />

the problem had been solved, automobiles<br />

had replaced horses.<br />

The auto industry has progressed<br />

enormously since then. Science and<br />

engineering gave us vehicles that are highly<br />

advanced, safer, and sophisticated. Electric<br />

vehicles (EV’s) have become the latest<br />

development and autonomous ones are just<br />

around the corner.<br />

It’s an exciting and rapidly evolving industry!<br />

Has the jewellery industry evolved as much?<br />

Not really.<br />

I like to joke that we’re still driving around in<br />

Ford Model T’s but we’re providing a choice<br />

of colour. Whilst there have been wonderful<br />

developments in technology, much of the<br />

industry has been slow to take these up.<br />

In manufacturing, we now have CAD, laser<br />

welding and engraving, 3D scanning and<br />

printing (a joy for setters profiling unusual<br />

cuts of gems), pneumatic-powered tools,<br />

ultra-sonic burnishers, and many others.<br />

Some scorned the new technology, others<br />

embraced them. Some still prefer Model<br />

T’s, while others go about building the next<br />

Tesla. There’s nothing wrong with either<br />

approach as both have their merits and<br />

consumers will decide which they prefer<br />

most.<br />

In jewellery manufacturing, I believe a<br />

combination of traditional crafting skills<br />

and modern technologies are the ideal way<br />

forward.<br />

It’s imperative that teaching traditional<br />

jewellery techniques should exist, such as<br />

the ability to hand forge, pierce, hand carve a<br />

wax, file and emery correctly, how to solder<br />

properly - are all crucial skills.<br />

All of the modern technologies available<br />

are simply additional tools in the craftmen’s<br />

toolbox.<br />

By embracing them and thinking of new<br />

designs, incorporating new methods and<br />

ways of connecting and framing gems<br />

means a jeweller can create more options<br />

and styles for clients.<br />

These technologies enable us to undertake<br />

the most amazing repairs and restorations<br />

of antique, old and worn jewellery.<br />

Laser welding enables seamless repair in<br />

areas that were never thought possible.<br />

Who doesn’t wince at seeing old repairs<br />

where lead solder or glue has been used?<br />

I shudder at the memory of repairs I’ve<br />

seen over the years and the subsequent<br />

desecration to the item’s value.<br />

By adding these new technologies into<br />

your workshop you can increase your<br />

skills, satisfy more clients, and grow your<br />

customer base accordingly.<br />

There is now a vast array of technologies to<br />

help run businesses. We now have fantastic<br />

software systems that enable us to record<br />

our client’s information and preferences,<br />

record stock levels and movements,<br />

re-order and replace stock efficiently and<br />

communicate directly with clients. Would<br />

any of us go back to a manual ledger?<br />

As an example, we recently received an<br />

online enquiry from a customer for a<br />

pendant as an exact copy of his online<br />

avatar.<br />

We replicated the image in CAD, worked out<br />

how to inlay the different colour baguette<br />

gems into the 3D glasses and also figured<br />

out the different enamels to make it work.<br />

The piece was cast in sections and required<br />

setting the gems separately before<br />

connecting to the enamel face. Laser<br />

welding completed that task.<br />

Some scorned<br />

the new<br />

technology,<br />

others embraced<br />

them. Some still<br />

prefer Model T’s,<br />

while others go<br />

about building<br />

the next<br />

Tesla. There’s<br />

nothing wrong<br />

with either<br />

approach...<br />

Yes, it was possible to completely create<br />

the piece by hand, but it takes considerably<br />

more time and risk than with the<br />

technologies available.<br />

The result was a piece precisely finished to<br />

the customer’s requirements and budget -<br />

an outcome that he was extremely pleased<br />

with.<br />

He posted it online, which got a huge<br />

response internationally and provided great<br />

exposure for our company, all because<br />

of old-fashioned customer service, along<br />

with talented craftspeople and modern<br />

technologies.<br />

We now have the ability to design and craft<br />

jewellery, photograph it, post it online and<br />

tell the story of its creation. We can reach<br />

an unlimited audience at the touch of a<br />

button.<br />

Those employing social media in their<br />

marketing and all that with good oldfashioned,<br />

individual client communication<br />

have seen their businesses grow<br />

accordingly.<br />

Our client base extends worldwide, but<br />

it’s easy to connect with them in the US or<br />

Europe as it is in an adjacent city. Emailing<br />

hand-drawn designs, evolving them in CAD,<br />

chatting on Zoom, delivering exactly what<br />

they see - on time and on budget - are all<br />

possible with the tools on hand.<br />

The future is exciting. VR, AR, AI, NFT, the<br />

Metaverse, crypto currency are all here<br />

now and ready to improve the crafting<br />

and delivery of our jewellery to a rapidly<br />

changing market.<br />

Will we embrace it, or will we be buried<br />

under a whole lot more manure?<br />

Name: Ian Douglas<br />

Business: The Village Goldsmith<br />

Position: Director<br />

Location: Wellington, NZ<br />

Years in the industry: 48<br />

70 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Real connections for<br />

future success<br />

Meet and see ranges that align your<br />

business for the year ahead!<br />

<strong>March</strong> 12 – 13, <strong>2022</strong><br />

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Darling Harbour<br />

www.expertiseevents.com.au<br />

AUSTRALIA’S NO.1<br />

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Est. 1990


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SAMS GROUP<br />

AUSTRALIA

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