British Travel Journal | Spring 2022
With the spring and summer ahead and hotels and restaurants revived, it is time to fix up those exciting travel plans we have all been dreaming of. And, if our Travel News pages are anything to go by, 2022 is set to be an incredible year. From staying in a luxurious castle estate in Northern Ireland to a wellness retreat like no other in North Devon, from the finest countryside farmhouse located in the heart of Sark to the supercool ‘active relaxation’ hotel situated on the shores of Ullswater – there’s simply no shortage of inspiration. However you choose to spend the season I hope this latest edition of British Travel Journal helps add a little sprinkle of extra magic to your upcoming travel plans, and we can all make up for lost time with our families and friends.
With the spring and summer ahead and hotels and restaurants revived, it is time to fix up those exciting travel plans we have all been dreaming of. And, if our Travel News pages are anything to go by, 2022 is set to be an incredible year. From staying in a luxurious castle estate in Northern Ireland to a wellness retreat like no other in North Devon, from the finest countryside farmhouse located in the heart of Sark to the supercool ‘active relaxation’ hotel situated on the shores of Ullswater – there’s simply no shortage of inspiration. However you choose to spend the season I hope this latest edition of British Travel Journal helps add a little sprinkle of extra magic to your upcoming travel plans, and we can all make up for lost time with our families and friends.
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BRITISH TRAVEL<br />
JOURNAL<br />
SPRING <strong>2022</strong> | ISSUE 11<br />
BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM<br />
ULTIMATE<br />
AWE-INSPIRING<br />
JOURNEYS<br />
FROM LAKES AND WATERFALLS<br />
IN THE LAKE DISTRICT TO<br />
STARGAZING ON A MAGICAL<br />
DARK SKY ISLAND<br />
WANDERLUST &<br />
WELLGEVITY<br />
ADD HEALTH AND WELLNESS<br />
TO YOUR ZEST FOR TRAVEL<br />
£6.75<br />
+ TRAVEL NEWS | TOURING ROUTES | UNIQUE STAYS | NATIONAL PARKS
CHANNEL ISLANDS<br />
Discover your own island adventure<br />
Go to visitalderney.com or call 01481 822333
CONTRIBUTIONS<br />
BRITISH TRAVEL<br />
JOURNAL<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com<br />
Welcome<br />
EDITOR’S LETTER<br />
—<br />
EDITORS<br />
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way<br />
FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford<br />
CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding<br />
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
Chantal Borciani, Sophie Farrah,<br />
Jane Knight, Caroline Mills, Karyn Noble,<br />
Natalie Paris, Tallulah Rushaya, Alex Stewart<br />
COVER PHOTO<br />
—<br />
View of Ullswater Lake from the Aira Force<br />
and Gowbarrow trail, Lake District National Park<br />
© Image Editor's own<br />
Published by<br />
CONTISTA MEDIA<br />
Unit 6, Basepoint, Andersons Road,<br />
Southampton, SO14 5FE<br />
01489 660680<br />
contistamedia.co.uk<br />
With the spring and summer<br />
ahead and hotels and<br />
restaurants revived, it is time to<br />
fix up those exciting travel plans<br />
we have all been dreaming of.<br />
And, if our <strong>Travel</strong> News pages (p9) are<br />
anything to go by, <strong>2022</strong> is set to be an incredible year.<br />
From staying in a luxurious castle estate in<br />
Northern Ireland (p66) to a wellness retreat like no other in<br />
North Devon (p38), from the finest countryside farmhouse<br />
located in the heart of Sark (p72) to the supercool ‘active<br />
relaxation’ hotel situated on the shores of Ullswater (p24) –<br />
there’s simply no shortage of inspiration.<br />
If it is memorable experiences you are seeking then look no<br />
further than our Unique Luxury Breaks (p48) from sea safaris<br />
to classic cars, lake swimming and waterfalls, and trout fishing<br />
to horse whispering.<br />
With a strong theme of ‘active wellness’ running through this<br />
issue you can’t beat our wonderful National Parks (p68) for a<br />
dose of fresh air, and one of our most scenic touring routes in<br />
Britain and Ireland (p58) for an unforgettable adventure – or<br />
perhaps you might enjoy taking a hike across England from<br />
coast to coast (p32).<br />
Celebrate the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee in style with a Jubilee<br />
Afternoon Tea (p90) or join in the fun sliding into the 20 million<br />
new blooms in the Tower of London’s moat.<br />
However you choose to spend the season I hope this latest<br />
edition of <strong>British</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> <strong>Journal</strong> helps add a little sprinkle of extra<br />
magic to your upcoming travel plans, and we can all make up<br />
for lost time with our families and friends.<br />
Jessica x<br />
JESSICA WAY<br />
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF<br />
–<br />
All rights reserved by Contista Media Ltd. Copyright is either<br />
owned by or licenced to Contista Media Ltd, or permitted by the<br />
original copyright holder. Reproduction in whole or part without<br />
written permission is strictly prohibited. While every care is taken<br />
prices and details are subject to change and Contista Media Ltd<br />
take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by<br />
authors are not necessarily those of the publisher.<br />
@<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong><br />
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CONTENTS<br />
SPRING <strong>2022</strong> | ISSUE 11<br />
—<br />
68<br />
24<br />
JOTTINGS<br />
09<br />
TRAVEL NEWS<br />
From a renovated Scottish castle and<br />
brand new countryside retreat hotel in Berkshire<br />
to an ambitious nationwide celebration of<br />
creativity, it’s an action-packed season.<br />
AFTERNOON TEA AT THE LANE<br />
22 Inspired by the decadence and splendour<br />
of the Regency era, Tea at the Lane with Lily<br />
Vanilli is now being hosted daily at the newly<br />
restored Theatre Royal Drury Lane.<br />
KILLEAVY CASTLE<br />
66 Explore the east coast of Ireland from the<br />
luxurious Killeavy Castle Estate.<br />
EXPLORE THE UK’S NATIONAL<br />
68 PARKS<br />
Made easy with new pocket maps and walking<br />
guides by Collins.<br />
82 NOTTINGHAM<br />
Britain’s largest small city, long associated<br />
with Robin Hood, is waiting to welcome you back<br />
safely and show that it's packed with much more<br />
than just legends.<br />
FOR YOUR JOURNEY<br />
98 Latest travel essentials and crossword.<br />
FEATURES<br />
24<br />
ANOTHER PLACE<br />
We explore the lake, fells and waterfalls<br />
around Ullswater in The Lake District during a<br />
stay at Another Place with a magical stargazing<br />
night swim experience.<br />
COAST TO COAST<br />
32 Wainwright’s famous trail across northern<br />
England is an epic journey through landscapes,<br />
history and time with the chance to explore three<br />
of the country’s finest national parks.<br />
HALCYON DAYS IN DEVON<br />
38 Give yourself a health reboot with this<br />
award-winning five-day wellness programme at<br />
Yeotown, North Devon.<br />
UNIQUE LUXURY BREAKS<br />
48 We uncover ten of the best stays and<br />
most exciting experiences for a truly memorable<br />
staycation this season. <br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 5
SPRING <strong>2022</strong> | ISSUE 11<br />
BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM<br />
£6.75<br />
E D I T O R<br />
L O V E S<br />
This special edition English Sparkling<br />
Wine by Royal Collection Trust, a<br />
department of the Royal Household,<br />
released in celebration of Her Majesty<br />
The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee.<br />
Buckingham Palace English Sparkling<br />
Wine, £39, Champagne Flute Glasses,<br />
£120.00 for a pair. Available from<br />
Royal Collection Trust shops in London,<br />
Windsor and Edinburgh or online:<br />
rct.uk/shop<br />
PREVIOUS PAGE LEFT TO<br />
RIGHT: ST NONS CHAPEL IN<br />
ST DAVIDS, WALES; OPEN WATER<br />
SWIMMING AT ANOTHER PLACE,<br />
THE LAKE DISTRICT. LEFT TO<br />
RIGHT: HELEN MAGELL AND<br />
HORSE WILLOW FROM STOCKS<br />
HOTEL, SARK; PEDNVOUNDER<br />
BEACH, CORNWALL.<br />
THE MOST SCENIC TOURING<br />
58 ROUTES IN BRITAIN AND<br />
IRELAND<br />
We’re ready to discover the brand-new Celtic<br />
Routes, Kintyre 66, the South West 660 and<br />
more, taking our time to savour the journey.<br />
STOCKS ISLAND HOTEL<br />
72 Spending 48 magical hours staying in<br />
a beautiful country house hotel on Sark, we<br />
discover the Window in the Rock, the Venus<br />
Pool, Sark Henge and much more.<br />
AFTERNOON TEAS<br />
90 In a year that celebrates Her Majesty<br />
becoming the first <strong>British</strong> Monarch to reach<br />
the Platinum Jubilee milestone of 70 years of<br />
service, there is even more reason to indulge in<br />
a spot of tea or raise your champagne glass.<br />
INTERVIEWS<br />
44<br />
SKYE GYNGELL<br />
64<br />
Renowned for her distinctively<br />
seasonal, elegant cooking, acclaimed <strong>British</strong><br />
chef Skye Gyngell talks us through the<br />
seasonal pleasures waiting to be discovered at<br />
luxury Hampshire hotel Heckfield Place.<br />
THE LAKES BY YOO<br />
86 We speak to John Hitchcox about the<br />
most exclusive lakeside estate in England<br />
and his vision for the brand new super-stylish<br />
lakeside cabins and apartments.<br />
72<br />
58<br />
Subscription Offer<br />
There’s no better time to take a <strong>British</strong><br />
vacation, or to re-discover your own<br />
country with a staycation, and we hope our<br />
pages inspire you, as they have us, to begin<br />
planning your next <strong>British</strong> travel adventure!<br />
Subscribe to three issues of <strong>British</strong> <strong>Travel</strong><br />
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IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN<br />
BRITISH TRAVEL<br />
JOURNAL<br />
ULTIMATE<br />
AWE-INSPIRING<br />
JOURNEYS<br />
FROM LAKES AND WATERFALLS<br />
IN THE LAKE DISTRICT TO<br />
STARGAZING ON A MAGICAL<br />
DARK SKY ISLAND<br />
WANDERLUST<br />
& WELLGEVITY<br />
ADD HEALTH AND WELLNESS<br />
TO YOUR ZEST TO TRAVEL<br />
+ TRAVEL NEWS | TOURING ROUTES | UNIQUE STAYS | NATIONAL PARKS<br />
6 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com<br />
Sign up to our e-newsletter:<br />
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It’s never too early to dream...<br />
Book ahead for 2023<br />
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Hidden London<br />
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Tickets now on sale<br />
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LOOKING AHEAD...<br />
TRAVEL NEWS<br />
Longer days and warmer temperatures mean it’s time for a trip.<br />
From hotels to big houses, we provide the inspiration.<br />
Text by Jane Knight<br />
NEW HOTELS<br />
COTTAGES<br />
EXCLUSIVE-USE<br />
ATTRACTIONS<br />
from page 10 from page 14<br />
from page 16 from page 18<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 9
New Hotels<br />
EDINBURGH<br />
Gleneagles Townhouse<br />
This city offshoot from the Queen of<br />
Scottish country house hotels could be<br />
Edinburgh’s answer to London’s The<br />
Ned. With a wellness area in the old<br />
bank vault and a swish restaurant in the<br />
former banking hall beneath a spectacular<br />
domed ceiling, the hotel capitalises on<br />
the building’s former life as the Bank of<br />
Scotland HQ. It’s full of cornicing and<br />
columns, original fireplaces and panelling,<br />
with canopy crown headboards in the<br />
bedrooms. A rooftop bar will be the place<br />
to see and be seen. Rooms from £495. ◆<br />
gleneagles.com<br />
CEREDIGION<br />
The Albion<br />
There are already coastal cabins, hill shacks, onsen domes<br />
and a bell tent on Fforest’s 500 acres which are designed<br />
so you can stay and play. Soon it will add a smart 23-room<br />
hotel, overlooking the River Teifi in two of Cardigan’s<br />
historic warehouses. Rooms from £113 a night. ◆<br />
coldatnight.co.uk<br />
LONDON<br />
Chateau Denmark<br />
This one’s bound to be a chart topper. In Soho’s famous<br />
Denmark Street, where the Sex Pistols once lived and the<br />
Rolling Stones recorded their first album, Chateau Denmark<br />
opens on 4 April. Expect a nod to punk and psychedelia in the<br />
55 rooms, which cost from £510 a night. ◆<br />
chateaudenmark.com<br />
10 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
BERKSHIRE<br />
The Retreat Elcot Park<br />
A country cousin to The Mitre Hampton Court, this former<br />
childhood home of poet Percy Bysshe Shelley opens soon in<br />
Berkshire, with 55 rooms, a spa and whisky tasting room.<br />
Rooms from £180. elcotpark.com<br />
LOCH LOMOND<br />
Cameron House<br />
Views of the bonny banks of Loch Lomond are<br />
the highlight of this restored baronial manor<br />
hotel, which re-opened last year following a<br />
fire in 2017. The renovation has been designed<br />
to bring the outdoors in, with views all the<br />
way from check-in and the new lobby bar to<br />
bedrooms with private balconies. Historic<br />
details blend seamlessly with contemporary<br />
comforts. Expect public rooms with striking<br />
black lacquered panelling highlighted by<br />
antique brass features, and bedrooms with<br />
Timorous Beasties fabric headboards,<br />
sumptuous velvets and tartans. A new lochside<br />
extension with a ballroom is still to come.<br />
Rooms from £265 with breakfast. ◆<br />
cameronhouse.co.uk<br />
COUNTY ANTRIM<br />
The Rabbit<br />
Scandi-chic interiors abound at Northern Ireland’s<br />
newly opened Rabbit Hotel near Lough Neagh,<br />
where rooms range from small attics to much larger<br />
affairs with outdoor bath tubs and wood burners.<br />
A spa with sauna, steam room, salt chamber and an<br />
impressive outdoors Roman bath is about to open.<br />
Its name? The Relaxation Burrow, of course.<br />
Rooms with breakfast from £175. ◆<br />
rabbithotel.com<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 11
LONDON<br />
art’otel London Battersea<br />
Power Station<br />
Talk about a pool with a view. Overlooking<br />
the iconic chimneys of the Grade II listed<br />
power station, this hotel’s infinity pool<br />
alone will make a splash when it opens in<br />
late summer. You’ll get similar electrifying<br />
views from some of the 164 rooms within<br />
and from the rooftop bar and gardens,<br />
which were designed by the same folk<br />
who mapped out New York’s High Line.<br />
Reached via the new extension of the<br />
Northern Line, the art’otel will feature<br />
works designed by a Signature Artist,<br />
whose name, along with room rates, has<br />
yet to be announced. Watch this space. ◆<br />
artotellondonbattersea.com<br />
One<br />
to<br />
watch<br />
YORK<br />
The Vices<br />
The three rooms in this former Victorian police station are certainly<br />
arresting: one has a brass four-poster bed, another a double circular<br />
bath surrounded by gemstones. Six-course tasting menus are served<br />
in the intimate restaurant, Allium — it’s definitely a long way from<br />
porridge. Rooms from £350 a night, with breakfast. ◆<br />
thevices.co.uk<br />
DORSET<br />
The Nici Hotel<br />
It’s all about fun without the fuss at Bournemouth’s clifftop Nici<br />
Hotel, which replaces the iconic Savoy. Due to open in June, it<br />
comes with a buzzy bar, all-day dining, bikes to borrow, a pool,<br />
and oodles of South Beach style in the 70 rooms. Rooms from<br />
£175, with breakfast. ◆<br />
nicihotels.com<br />
12 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
GLOUCESTERSHIRE<br />
The Fox at Oddington<br />
Almost a decade after Daylesford Organics’ Carole Bamford<br />
created waves in the Cotswolds with her pub with rooms,<br />
The Wild Rabbit, she is following up with The Fox. With just six<br />
bedrooms and a cottage, the gastro pub opens in June.<br />
thefoxatoddington.com<br />
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE<br />
Horwood House<br />
Chill out at the new H Spa which has just<br />
been added to this historic Grade II listed<br />
hotel as part of a £6 million refurbishment.<br />
With a 15-metre indoor pool surrounded by<br />
heated beds, the spa features treatments<br />
using Caudalie’s vinotherapy range. Pick<br />
from an Express D-Vine Facial, an exfoliating<br />
Crushed Cabernet Body Treatment or<br />
perhaps a Fleur de Vigne Candle Massage.<br />
You can visit for the day and enjoy lunch or<br />
afternoon tea, and a 50-minute treatment<br />
from £159, or stay the night, with an<br />
additional £30 credit towards dinner and bed<br />
and breakfast, from £229 per person. ◆<br />
horwoodhouse.co.uk<br />
New spa<br />
Editor loves<br />
LAKE DISTRICT<br />
Rothay Manor<br />
Tails will be wagging at Ambleside’s boutique<br />
hotel with its indoors dog wash, dog-friendly<br />
suites with gardens, and walkies outside the<br />
front door. Eight new suites open in the Pavilion<br />
from Easter, adding to 15 rooms in the hotel,<br />
which has just been refurbished. Pavilion<br />
rooms from £450, with breakfast. ◆<br />
rothaymanor.co.uk<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 13
Cottages<br />
CORNWALL<br />
Fuchsia Cottage<br />
The sea view is what it’s all about at cosy Fuchsia Cottage, which looks down<br />
on the Cornish coast from the fishing village of Portloe on the Roseland<br />
Peninsula. With courtyard garden, wood burner, spacious kitchen and two<br />
en-suite bedrooms, it is also dog friendly. Short breaks from £822.<br />
boutique-retreats.co.uk<br />
THE COTSWOLDS<br />
The Old Mission<br />
Church<br />
Allelulah! Church-going just got seriously<br />
stylish, with this property for four in Paxford.<br />
The stained-glass windows, original doors<br />
and beamed, vaulted ceilings are still there,<br />
with a world of contemporary chic within. A<br />
designer kitchen opens onto the living and<br />
dining areas while a glass and steel staircase<br />
leads to a mezzanine bedroom with views of<br />
the church interior through a glazed screen.<br />
A second bedroom on the ground floor has<br />
a freestanding bath. And, praise the Lord,<br />
there’s a gastro pub over the road too.<br />
Three nights from £1,180. ◆<br />
ruralretreats.co.uk<br />
NORTHUMBERLAND<br />
The Loovre<br />
The clue’s in the name — this quirky studio was once<br />
a Victorian ladies’ loo. More recently, the unique<br />
building within Berwick Upon Tweed’s Elizabethan<br />
walls has been used as an ice-cream parlour. It now<br />
holds a double bed and kitchenette with fold-down<br />
dining table while outside is a private courtyard. As for<br />
the conveniences, there’s a small shower room.<br />
From £120 a night for two. ◆<br />
crabtreeandcrabtree.com<br />
14 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
GOODWOOD<br />
one<br />
of<br />
the<br />
best<br />
hotels<br />
in<br />
the<br />
country<br />
DUNCAN CRAIG, TRAVEL EDITOR, THE TIMES AND SUNDAY TIMES<br />
GOODWOOD.COM
Exclusive Use<br />
KENT<br />
Chapel House Estate<br />
Get hitched in style at this luxury estate<br />
in Thanet, with its Banqueting Barn and<br />
Old Granary, and space to sleep up to 24<br />
guests. The medieval Chapel House itself<br />
has three lovely rooms, while separate<br />
modern lodgings are set in the paddock.<br />
Stroll around the 25 acres of gardens<br />
and woodland, get the driver to take you<br />
further afield, and call on the 24-hour<br />
onsite concierge for whatever you need.<br />
As for the ceremony, from June you can<br />
say ‘I do’ in several places. ◆<br />
chapelhouseestate.co.uk<br />
OXFORD<br />
Greyfriars Hideaway<br />
Amid the dreaming spires of Oxford, this city retreat with<br />
private courtyard garden is hidden behind a mysterious heavy<br />
door just steps from Oxford Castle. Within are two beautifully<br />
restored 17th century properties, which together sleep a dozen<br />
guests. The smaller of the pair, The Masters Lodgings, comes<br />
with a listed staircase leading to two suites, each taking up an<br />
entire floor with their dressing room, seating area and stone<br />
and porcelain bathroom as well as bedroom area. Downstairs<br />
is a wood-panelled sitting room, a more formal dining area and<br />
fully equipped kitchen.<br />
Also opening onto the courtyard is Cloisters, which sleeps eight<br />
in four fabulous suites, one of which has a Grade II listed ornate<br />
plaster ceiling. Two others look out onto Oxford Castle, which<br />
is illuminated at night. There’s plenty of room for everyone<br />
downstairs in the large open-plan reception room with doors<br />
opening onto the garden. The kitchen comes with everything<br />
you need, including double ovens, no less than three sinks and<br />
a wine fridge, though if you’d rather not cook, you can go out in<br />
the city or book a private chef, one of several optional concierge<br />
services. Three nights for 12 is from £7,600. ◆<br />
greyfriarshideawayoxford.com<br />
16 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
SPEYSIDE<br />
Rothes Glen<br />
What better base than a Scottish castle from which to set out and<br />
taste Speyside’s whisky offerings? Newly renovated Rothes Glen<br />
has its own whisky vault along with 10 ensuite bedrooms and some<br />
seriously grand public rooms. Two nights from £11,500.<br />
rothesglenspeyside.com<br />
CORNWALL<br />
Molesworth Manor<br />
A two-year renovation has brought<br />
this 17th century manor house in Little<br />
Petherick bang up to date with everything<br />
from a fitness suite with Finish sauna and<br />
twin hot tubs to a games and cinema<br />
room. There’s a firepit and BBQ outside,<br />
as well as an open-plan kitchen within.<br />
If you don’t fancy cooking, it’s just a<br />
short walk to Padstow with its Rick Stein<br />
restaurants. Like the rest of the house,<br />
the seven ensuite bedrooms have been<br />
beautifully designed. For even more<br />
luxury, you can book a private chef and a<br />
masseuse. A week for 14 from £5,285. ◆<br />
cornishgems.com<br />
WILTSHIRE<br />
The Farm at Avebury<br />
Take all six of the converted stables at this country<br />
bolthole and you get independence for individual<br />
families plus space to come together for gatherings<br />
in the Barn and Granary. There’s farm food on the<br />
doorstep and Avebury Henge and Stone Circle to<br />
explore before a pitstop at The Red Lion, surrounded<br />
by ancient stones. The rustic-chic hideaways sleep up<br />
to 22 and open in July, with two nights from £3,590. ◆<br />
thefarmatavebury.co.uk<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 17
Attractions<br />
LONDON<br />
The Chelsea Flower Show<br />
There’s plenty to go wild about at this<br />
year’s RHS Chelsea Flower show, which will<br />
return from May 24–28 after a two-year<br />
absence. Wild-flower meadows, blossoming<br />
hedgerows and lush woodland will give<br />
the show a back-to-nature feel, with native<br />
English species transforming gardens<br />
into wildlife-friendly havens. There will be<br />
hawthorn and hornbeam, cow parsley and<br />
crab apple, and plenty of poppies amid the<br />
buttercups and nettles. A new category<br />
called All About Plants will be held in The<br />
Great Pavilion and will champion the many<br />
positive powers of plants. ◆<br />
rhs.org.uk<br />
IMAGE © RHS / JULIET SARGEANT<br />
BELFAST<br />
Game of Thrones Studio Tour<br />
Step inside the Great Hall at Winterfell where Jon Snow was<br />
proclaimed King in the North, see Daenerys Targaryen’s<br />
Dragonstone throne and find out more about the<br />
Seven Kingdoms on the Game of Thrones Studio Tour<br />
at Northern Ireland’s Banbridge. ◆<br />
gameofthronesstudiotour.com<br />
LONDON<br />
Restaurant 1890 by Gordon Ramsay<br />
Just 26 guests at a time can eat at The Savoy’s newest<br />
restaurant, which opened in February overlooking the hotel’s<br />
iconic entrance. Named in honour of the year that culinary great<br />
Georges Auguste Escoffier joined The Savoy, it serves a tasting<br />
menu, at £110 per person, with optional wine pairings. ◆<br />
gordonramsayrestaurants.com<br />
18 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
EDINBURGH<br />
Royal Yachtsmen return to their beloved Britannia<br />
Step aboard The Royal Yacht Britannia 30 May – 2 June in celebration<br />
of the Queen's Jubilee, and see the former Royal Yachtsmen don their<br />
white overalls, painting, scrubbing, sanding and polishing – as well as<br />
enjoying their traditional daily tot of Pusser’s rum at 4pm.<br />
royalyachtbritannia.co.uk<br />
WEST SUSSEX<br />
Petworth Park Antiques<br />
& Fine Art Fair<br />
A rare Chinese porcelain teapot from the<br />
Qing dynasty, an Art Deco diamond and<br />
platinum broach, and a Lalique vase are<br />
among the items on sale at this year’s fair in<br />
the grounds of the National Trust's Petworth<br />
House. From May 13-15, it will feature goods<br />
from 60 exhibitors. Among the etchings, and<br />
paintings, the furniture and jewellery, one of<br />
the more unusual pieces on sale is the toll bell<br />
made for the first Vauxhall Bridge, originally<br />
known as Regent Bridge, in 1810. If you fancy<br />
it, it’s yours for a cool £14,500. ◆<br />
petworthparkfair.com<br />
Editor loves<br />
CAMBRIDGE<br />
Cambridge Country Club<br />
It could be the perfect solution for golf widows<br />
– this spa on the outskirts of Cambridge which has<br />
just had a major facelift overlooks a championship<br />
golf course. Leave your other half on the fairway<br />
while you work out in the gym, wallow in the pool,<br />
or enjoy one of the Elemis treatments.<br />
Day spa packages start from £139. ◆<br />
cambridgecountryclub.com<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 19
Iconic architecture, rich<br />
heritage, exquisite cocktails<br />
In the heart of Hampshire just 20 minutes from Winchester and the M4<br />
Bombay Sapphire Distillery | Whitchurch | Hampshire<br />
Hello@bombaysapphire.com | 01256 890090<br />
BOOK YOUR GIN EXPERIENCE TODAY: BOMBAYSAPPHIRE.COM/DISTILLERY<br />
Get 10% off your Discovery booking using the code: BTJ10
TRESCO<br />
The New Inn<br />
At the very heart of Tresco, our much-loved family-owned private<br />
island 28 miles from the Cornish coast in the Isles of Scilly,<br />
The Inn with rooms has been given a fresh new look following a<br />
substantial refurbishment to the bedrooms and Pavilion dining space.<br />
tresco.co.uk<br />
ACROSS THE UK<br />
UNBOXED<br />
There’s a unique celebration of creativity<br />
taking place throughout the UK in <strong>2022</strong>.<br />
Designed to reach millions and bring people<br />
together through large-scale light shows,<br />
sculpture trails and installations in an<br />
ambitious showcase of creative collaboration,<br />
UNBOXED features ten major multi-site and<br />
digital creative projects that share new ideas<br />
and possibilities for the future. Events are<br />
taking place from 1 March–2 October <strong>2022</strong> –<br />
from the Outer Hebrides to Dover and from<br />
Omagh to Swansea. Visit the website to find<br />
out more about taking part. ◆<br />
unboxed<strong>2022</strong>.uk/get-involved<br />
LONDON<br />
The White Company<br />
Sleep Retreat<br />
Harbour Hotels Richmond has teamed up with<br />
The White Company to launch a special new Sleep<br />
Retreat taking relaxation to a whole new level. Full use of<br />
the spa, a top-to-toe massage, three-course dinner and<br />
in-room gift set from The White Company’s Sleep Collection<br />
will have you feeling dreamy and oh-so-refreshed. ◆<br />
harbourhotels.co.uk/richmond<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 21
SPECIAL FEATURE<br />
AFTERNOON TEA<br />
AT THE LANE<br />
Inspired by the decadence and splendour of the Regency era,<br />
Tea at the Lane with Lily Vanilli is now being hosted daily at the<br />
newly restored Theatre Royal Drury Lane.<br />
Theatre Royal Drury Lane,<br />
affectionately known as The<br />
Lane has re-opened following<br />
a £60 million restoration by<br />
Andrew and Madeleine Lloyd Webber<br />
offering a decadent Afternoon Tea that<br />
is a playful, modern-day take on the<br />
glamorous Regency era, created by Lily<br />
Vanilli, the self-taught baker and owner<br />
of Columbia Road bakery.<br />
Whether stopping in before a show<br />
or looking to spend an afternoon<br />
indulging, guests can tuck into delicate<br />
pink lemonade tarts with elderflower<br />
jelly and a mini sticky toffee pudding<br />
with an oozing centre of custard and<br />
salted caramel. Dark chocolate sponge<br />
cake, piped with buttercream in the<br />
decorative style for which Lily is so well<br />
known, layered with a biscuit crunch<br />
and salted caramel and topped with a<br />
tiny gilded chocolate cherub, will also<br />
be served generously by the slice with<br />
whole cakes on display and available to<br />
take away as guests leave.<br />
Savoury bites will include madeleines<br />
with lapsang-souchong glazed salmon<br />
and pickled fennel, bitesize cannelés<br />
with whipped ricotta and pickled<br />
beetroot, and a signature Lily Vanilli<br />
puff pastry sausage roll made with<br />
Cornish sausage meat, roast bacon<br />
lardons and a cider vinegar deglaze.<br />
Warm scones will be brought to the<br />
table with salted whipped butter, cream<br />
and homemade jam while guests sip on<br />
Rare Tea Company teas and Taittinger<br />
champagne. To round things off,<br />
drawing on the Regency era’s trend of<br />
creative and exotic ices, a trolley roams<br />
the room serving scoops of heady<br />
absinthe mint choc chip ice cream<br />
made with Lily’s top-secret recipe. For<br />
those looking for an extra touch of<br />
luxury, Exmoor caviar is served in the<br />
Grand Saloon all day, where gilded<br />
high ceilings, large windows and new<br />
crystal chandeliers create a sense of<br />
Regency grandeur.<br />
Designed by Alexander Waterworth,<br />
the pale pink walls are lined with green<br />
marble panels, framing the large bar<br />
at the centre of the room, and for those<br />
who want to enjoy Afternoon Tea<br />
al fresco, spacious terraces leading<br />
from the Grand Saloon overlook the<br />
Covent Garden piazza.<br />
Afternoon Tea is served on tiered<br />
plates featuring mythical characters<br />
taken from costume design illustrations<br />
for the theatre’s ballets, comic operas,<br />
pantomimes and Edwardian musical<br />
comedies over the years. ◆<br />
Prices from £49 per person (or from<br />
£57 per person with champagne).<br />
22 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
BEST UK<br />
ATTRACTION<br />
(Which? Magazine)<br />
Make memories aboard Britannia<br />
20% off<br />
*<br />
*20% off admission for up to 4 people. Enter code 1414 online at the checkout<br />
stage on the Britannia website or show the advert/quote code at the Britannia<br />
Visitor Reception on the 2nd floor of Ocean Terminal Shopping Centre. Not valid<br />
in conjunction with any other offer, gift tickets or family tickets. One code per<br />
transaction. No cash alternative. Valid until 30 June <strong>2022</strong>. Ref: 1414.<br />
Please see website for opening times and prices<br />
royalyachtbritannia.co.uk<br />
Gift Shop Free Parking Free Audio Tour Available in 30 Languages Highly Accessible
24 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
LUXURY ESCAPE...<br />
ANOTHER<br />
PLACE<br />
ULLSWATER<br />
Majestic mountains, glistening lakes, cascading waterfalls,<br />
and soft light over the fells, tarns and woods. Another Place,<br />
The Lake, is perfectly situated on the shores of Ullswater to<br />
enjoy this mesmerising setting and explore the wild.<br />
Text by Jessica Way<br />
There has been nothing stopping this<br />
new hotel collection since they launched<br />
Another Place, The Lake, six years ago.<br />
From BBC appearances to training<br />
celebrities to swim in the open water, and now the<br />
recent launch of Outside, a collection of rooms and<br />
spaces allowing guests to be even closer to nature,<br />
yet with all the luxuries and amenities of the hotel<br />
right there on their doorstep.<br />
Situated in the spectacular natural landscape<br />
of the Lake District – the UK’s largest UNESCO<br />
World Heritage site – Another Place, The Lake<br />
is an impressive Georgian property with a stylish<br />
new contemporary wing, immaculately converted<br />
into a luxurious 40-bedroom hotel, including 10<br />
family suites and 16 dog-friendly rooms. Open-plan<br />
interiors and connecting spaces have been cleverly<br />
designed with rustic materials and plenty of glass<br />
making the most of the tranquil views. Guests can<br />
relax in the library, unwind in the spa, and admire the<br />
surrounding scenery from the restaurants, terraces,<br />
balconies, garden hammocks and outdoor hot tub.<br />
Set in 18 acres of national parkland with beautiful<br />
gardens, a Victorian glasshouse, and their own<br />
private jetty on the shore, there are plenty of activities<br />
for hotel guests from stand-up paddleboarding to<br />
kayaking and coasteering, writing workshops to yoga<br />
on the lawn, to feel inspired by lakeside living. <br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 25
We stayed in the colourful Joules Suite, beautifully<br />
designed by Hannah Coates, art director at clothing<br />
brand Joules. The room was bright, fun and eye-catching<br />
with a playful design mixing modern with vintage.<br />
This was the first hotel collaboration with a creative<br />
designer, giving Hannah the freedom to create a room<br />
with Joules own unique stamp, to include Joules furniture,<br />
homewares and bed linen.<br />
A successful concept, the hotel has since worked<br />
alongside Matt Hulme of Dynargh Design, an awardwinning<br />
interior design practice, to encapsulate the<br />
Cumbrian landscape with a colour palette of tonal<br />
greens, burnt yellows and statement Designers Guild<br />
wallpaper (the Ullswater Suite, room 24).<br />
For the ultimate luxury self-catering break there is the<br />
most beautiful new spacious two-bedroom suite, Willow<br />
Cottage, designed by Interior Design Masters winner Lynsey<br />
Ford – her prize commission for winning the popular<br />
BBC2 show. Ideal for four-legged guests, Willow Cottage<br />
is located next to the hotel offering the best of both<br />
worlds, your own private sitting room, reading nook and<br />
pantry combined with full access to the hotel.<br />
Like the Joules Suite, the Ullswater Suite and Lynsey<br />
Ford’s Willow Cottage, the idea behind these partnerships<br />
is to create unique bedrooms within the hotel with their<br />
own strong identity – and it works well.<br />
For those who prefer glamping, with the launch of<br />
Outside, there are now six brand-new shepherd huts,<br />
each with built-in stargazing roofs and wood fires, and<br />
a stunning two-bedroom treehouse in a secluded spot<br />
surrounded by trees with endless lake and mountain<br />
views, and an outdoor bath and log burner.<br />
26 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
“<br />
For those who prefer glamping there are<br />
six brand-new shepherd huts, each with<br />
built-in stargazing roofs and wood fires,<br />
and a stunning two-bedroom treehouse in<br />
a secluded spot surrounded by trees with<br />
endless lake and mountain views, and an<br />
outdoor bath and log burner.<br />
”<br />
Another Place has much to be proud about – and<br />
perhaps the most exciting news of the moment,<br />
they will be launching their second hotel in the<br />
collection, Another Place, The Garden next year.<br />
Sensitive preservation and renovation work<br />
is currently underway at country estate Amport<br />
House in Hampshire, built in 1857 for the Marquess<br />
of Winchester.<br />
Location is fundamental to Another Place.<br />
The team behind the new collection also own<br />
Watergate Bay, situated on a two mile surfing<br />
beach on the North Cornwall coast. Working with<br />
the same designers behind Watergate, Household<br />
(who have designed for brands such as Harrods,<br />
Soho House and Christian Louboutin), inspiration<br />
from the views, colours, textures and materials<br />
that surround each hotel, be that by the coast,<br />
countryside or city, is brought into their innovative<br />
hotel-style, bringing the outside in and immersing<br />
guests in nature, landscape and the outdoors.<br />
For Another Place, The Lake, this includes bespoke<br />
furniture sourced from local makers, swatches of<br />
field greens, slate greys and bracken reds and a<br />
20 metre glass wall pool creating the feeling of<br />
swimming into the hills. There are some familiar<br />
design touches by Household running across the<br />
hotels too such as a striking zig-zag floor – a<br />
technique to match the feeling of familiarity with the<br />
intriguingly new. Next to the kitchen garden, which<br />
supplies the hotel chefs with their own home-grown<br />
produce, The Glasshouse is another recent addition,<br />
and the hotel's newest restaurant, with tomato<br />
vines and fresh herbs being grown inside. Guests<br />
can enjoy breakfast, coffee, lunch, woodfired<br />
pizzas and feast nights here as a relaxed alternative<br />
to the hotel's Rampsbeck Restaurant, which serves<br />
delicious meals from locally caught stone bass to<br />
salt aged duck breast.<br />
There’s also The Living Space adjacent to the spa<br />
as another tasty option, perfect for alfresco lunches<br />
serving lamb tagine, meze plates, salads and<br />
sandwiches with a large outdoor terrace.<br />
The lake itself is the jewel in the crown for guests<br />
looking for meaningful experiences as part of <br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 27
“<br />
To experience swimming in a lake can, in itself, be incredible,<br />
but the stargazing, and full-moon swims, adds an extraspecial<br />
dimension. The magical setting of Ullswater, for many<br />
the most beautiful lake in England, is just the most wonderful<br />
spot for this experience...<br />
”<br />
their stay, described to us by the hotel General Manager, David Vaughan, as ‘active<br />
relaxation’. The launch of the newly rebuilt Sheep Shed is a testimony to this, forming the<br />
hotel's heartbeat to its lake activities. The lakeside cabin is perfectly equipped for warm yearround<br />
changing, with hot showers, and has everything guests might need for getting out on<br />
the water, including wetsuits, paddleboards, kayaks, dryrobes and safety equipment.<br />
Following a delicious meal at the Rampsbeck Restaurant on our first evening we headed<br />
across to the Sheep Shed for a stargazing night swim with open water swim specialist, Colin<br />
Hill. This was the perfect way to meet other friendly like-minded visitors.<br />
We walked along the shoreline before bracing the water together in our wetsuits with our<br />
illuminated 'tow-floats' by our side.<br />
To experience swimming in a lake can, in itself, be incredible, but the stargazing, and fullmoon<br />
swims, adds an extra-special dimension. The magical setting of Ullswater, for many<br />
the most beautiful lake in England, is just the most wonderful spot for this experience, and<br />
knowing that the hotel (and hot shower) is simply strides away makes the idea of cold-water<br />
immersions a little less daunting.<br />
Following lots of floating and pointing up at the stars Colin confidently guided us to swim<br />
back towards the hotel’s own jetty, where we had left our dryrobes and would finish our swim.<br />
Colin is full of enthusiasm for cold water swimming and has quite an impressive backstory<br />
– as one of the UK’s most high profile cold water swimmers, he is a world endurance cold<br />
water champion who has been admitted in the International Marathon Swimming Hall of Fame,<br />
and he was the first UK male Ice Mile swimmer to race one mile in under five degrees with no<br />
wetsuit. In just trunks, a swimming hat and goggles he completed the mile in 24 minutes and<br />
22 seconds, one of the fastest ice swims on record.<br />
As well as training athletes and celebs (including radio DJ Jo Wiley, BBC personality Richie<br />
Anderson and Radio 2’s Kate Bottley) in his specially designed ‘endless’ swimming pool<br />
(adjacent to the hotel), Colin also takes groups on swimming adventures to Kailpot to enjoy<br />
the secluded bay. A short boat-trip away in true Swallows and Amazons style we spent an<br />
afternoon with Colin, climbing rocks and crags and jumping into the lake.<br />
For the more adventurous, Colin guides small groups to swim from one side of the lake to<br />
the other in a special one-mile 'cross lake' challenge. This is a journey Colin knows only too<br />
well as it is also his daily commute to work. His house is conveniently situated on the opposite<br />
shore of Ullswater to the hotel. Each swimmer who completes the challenge receives a Cross<br />
Ullswater Swim medal in celebration of their achievement. <br />
28 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 29
THE LAKE, FELLS AND WATERFALLS<br />
With so much majestic wonder surrounding the<br />
hotel, exploring the local area is the natural<br />
choice for guests. The Ullswater Way is a 20-mile<br />
walking route that goes around the entire lake.<br />
Experienced walkers might enjoy the challenge<br />
of hiking this in a day, or a five minute drive (30<br />
minute walk) from the hotel to Pooley Bridge you<br />
can sail on the Ullswater Steamer.<br />
From Pooley Bridge at the north end of the<br />
lake, it is a seven-mile boat trip to Glenridding<br />
south of the lake, with options to stop at<br />
Howtown and Aira Force along the route.<br />
At Pooley Bridge there are plenty of pubs,<br />
restaurants, cafés and gift shops.<br />
30 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
FIRST SPREAD: COASTEERING IN KAILPOT. SECOND SPREAD:<br />
ANOTHER PLACE, THE LAKE; NEW SHEPHERD HUTS; THE<br />
JOULES SUITE; SWIMMING IN THE LAKE WITH COLIN HILL.<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT; THE LAKE JETTY; VIEWS FROM<br />
THE SWIMMING POOL; LOW FLYING RAF PLANE PASSING<br />
THROUGH GLENRIDDING; JESSICA IN GOWBARROW FELL.<br />
If you fancy a cycle ride, then pop into Arragon's Cycle<br />
Centre. One of their most popular attractions is the<br />
route to Lowther Castle. There's a lovely network of cycle<br />
paths (mostly traffic free) to explore the Lowther Estates<br />
with links over Askham fell, and the new Ullswater Way<br />
Lowther Castle Loop trail.<br />
After a leisurely session of make-your-own waffles at<br />
breakfast, we spent our first morning exploring National<br />
Trust's Aira Force, a beautiful cascading 60m waterfall<br />
with new viewing platform, set amongst ancient woodland<br />
and landscaped glades, before taking the awe-inspiring<br />
four-mile round hike, 320m high, to reach Gowbarrow<br />
Fell. At the top the panoramic views of the valley take your<br />
breath away. I can only imagine how beautiful this spot<br />
would be from which to watch the sunrise.<br />
The following day we sailed to Glenridding on the<br />
Ullswater Steamer to take on the Helvellyn Circular<br />
eight-mile loop trail. It was an incredible experience which<br />
took around 5 hours from start to finish. The final Swirral<br />
Edge stretch is steep, full of rocky outcrops and large<br />
boulders but once you reach the summit of Helvellyn,<br />
950m high, you feel elated, and the views are incredible.<br />
“<br />
As we enjoyed our lunch two<br />
low-flying planes in close succession<br />
tore through the skies just in front of<br />
us - it was quite a sight and a thrilling<br />
surprise.<br />
”<br />
Glenridding is a beautiful village with quaint tea rooms,<br />
galleries and gift shops. If you are looking for a less<br />
strenuous walk then you might enjoy the eight-mile<br />
lakeland footpath to Howtown. The mostly flat trail passes<br />
the much-loved Artists’ Seat (celebrating JMW Turner, John<br />
Glover and Ann Macbeth), the Kathleen Raine Poetry Stones<br />
and Hallin Fell. You might encounter a RAF training flight<br />
here too. As we enjoyed our lunch two low-flying planes in<br />
close succession tore through the skies just in front of us – it<br />
was quite a sight and a thrilling surprise.<br />
The next morning, a recovery swim in the hotel's indoor<br />
swimming pool watching the sunrise over the fells, I felt<br />
more energised and refreshed than I could remember<br />
feeling in a very long time. If this is the class of holiday you<br />
can expect from Another Place hotels then I will be one of<br />
the first to be checking in at their Hampshire countryside<br />
counterpart in 2023. Watch this space!<br />
Prices from £210 per night, another.place<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 31
COAST<br />
TO<br />
COAST<br />
Walking Wainwright’s famous trail across northern England is an<br />
epic journey through landscapes, history and time with the chance<br />
to explore three of the country’s finest national parks.<br />
Text by Alex Stewart<br />
32 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
Your first decision is a key one.<br />
Not which path to take, but<br />
which pebble to pick. After all,<br />
you’re going to have to carry<br />
it 192 miles across England from coast to<br />
coast, so you want it to be perfect. And<br />
not too heavy.<br />
Anyone familiar with Alfred<br />
Wainwright’s epic walking route spanning<br />
the north of England from the Cumbrian<br />
coast to the North Sea will recognize<br />
this tradition. If you’re not familiar with<br />
the Coast to Coast, it’s the quintessential<br />
English hill walking and long-distance<br />
trail experience. The great fell walker and<br />
guidebook writer plotted the route in 1973<br />
and almost fifty years on it has a worldwide<br />
reputation among walkers, eclipsing all<br />
other long-distance routes in England in<br />
terms of popularity and variety.<br />
The route as imagined by Wainwright<br />
walks up hill and down dale from the tiny<br />
seaside resort of St Bees on the Irish Sea<br />
to Robin Hood’s Bay near Whitby on the<br />
North Sea Coast. Around two-thirds of the<br />
time is spent in national parks, traversing<br />
the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and<br />
North York Moors via all manner of trails,<br />
tracks, rivers, rock-strewn hills, peaty bogs,<br />
meadows and moorland.<br />
Dramatic upland scenery along the<br />
route includes England’s highest fells and<br />
its largest lakes, some of its most beautiful<br />
woods and sections of its bleakest, barest<br />
moors. There’s wildlife to watch for,<br />
traditional villages to discover and the<br />
poignant ruins of mills, mines and ancient<br />
Iron Age sites to stumble upon. It makes for<br />
a perfect two-week walking holiday. <br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 33
And anyone undertaking this epic journey<br />
starts by dipping a toe in the sea and picking a<br />
pebble to take from seashore to seashore.<br />
Although you can traverse the country in<br />
either direction, most coast-to-coasters walk<br />
from west to east, so the sun and prevailing<br />
wind is at your back. Starting in St Bees at<br />
‘Mile Zero’, the path heads straight up a long<br />
grassy field to stride out along the edge of a<br />
towering red cliff. Continuing north past fields<br />
of sheep and banks of wild flowers there are<br />
superb seascapes and great opportunities to<br />
spot nesting seabirds before you turn your face<br />
inland, towards the Lakeland hills.<br />
Although not especially tough, the route<br />
is certainly challenging enough when you<br />
tackle it in one go. Because it’s popular the<br />
temptation is to think it’s easy. Don’t be fooled,<br />
you’ll be averaging 14 miles a day for two<br />
weeks, in fair weather or foul, during which<br />
you’ll ascend (and of course descend) the<br />
equivalent height of Mount Everest.<br />
Navigation on the network of connecting<br />
footpaths, bridleways, minor roads and other<br />
PREVIOUS SPREAD<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:<br />
SUNLIGHT ON ENNERDALE<br />
WATER, CUMBRIA; CALM<br />
WATER ON HAYSTACKS,<br />
THE LAKE DISTRICT;<br />
VIEW OF SMARDALE GILL,<br />
A NATURE RESERVE IN<br />
CUMBRIA; THE OLD<br />
STONE KIRKBYMOORSIDE<br />
ROADSIGN ON BLAKEY<br />
RIDGE, NORTH<br />
YORKSHIRE MOORS.<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP<br />
LEFT: LOW TIDE ON ST<br />
BEES BEACH, CUMBRIA;<br />
VIEW FROM GREEN<br />
CRAG OVERLOOKING<br />
WARNSCALE BOTTOM;<br />
THE MARKET TOWN OF<br />
RICHMOND SITED AT THE<br />
EDGE OF THE NORTH<br />
YORKSHIRE DALES ON<br />
THE BANKS OF RIVER<br />
SWALE;THE GRISEDALE<br />
VALLEY AND TARN.<br />
34 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
“<br />
In the heart of Lakeland you’ll explore Helm Crag, Grassmere and<br />
Patterdale, pass Angle Tarn at the head of Ullswater, and climb Kidsty Pike,<br />
which at 2,560ft is the highest point on the trail.<br />
”<br />
rights of way can also be challenging,<br />
which is where travelling with HF<br />
Holidays as part of a small, escorted<br />
walking group makes sense; let your<br />
experienced walk leader take care of<br />
all the logistics and map reading.<br />
They’ll help bring the route to<br />
life too, with insights and stories on<br />
everything from local romantic poets<br />
like Wordsworth and Coleridge to<br />
lessons on medieval history.<br />
The trail through the Lake District<br />
crosses the bald crown of Dent Hill,<br />
from the top of which are cracking<br />
views of the Lakes ahead of you<br />
and, on a clear day, even Scotland<br />
and the Isle of Man. You’ll then<br />
skirt Ennerdale Water and make<br />
your way towards Haystacks, the<br />
small fell where Wainwright’s ashes<br />
are scattered, before reaching the<br />
Honister Slate Mine and Borrowdale.<br />
In the heart of Lakeland you’ll<br />
explore Helm Crag, Grassmere and<br />
Patterdale, pass Angle Tarn at the<br />
head of Ullswater, and climb Kidsty<br />
Pike, which at 2,560ft is the highest<br />
point on the trail.<br />
Then come the picturesque<br />
ruins of Shap Abbey, the limestone<br />
pavement of Westmorland and<br />
empty Ravenstonedale Moor before<br />
you reach the attractive market town<br />
of Kirkby Stephen. Beyond here,<br />
look out for the ‘stone men’ of the<br />
Nine Standards Rigg, a row of 10ft<br />
cairns protruding from the country’s<br />
spine that mark the main west/east<br />
watershed of England. <br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 35
Then leave the Lakes to head into the Yorkshire Dales,<br />
swapping craggy mountains for vast, endless moors,<br />
which unfurl ahead of you as you descend to the timelapsed<br />
village of Keld.<br />
Follow the tumbling river through the Swaledale<br />
Valley on foot-worn paths and over stiles smoothed<br />
by hiking boots, alongside dry-stone walls and wire<br />
“<br />
Wainwright’s masterful route-planning means the beautiful tumble of<br />
Robin Hood’s Bay itself is hidden from sight until the very last mile.<br />
”<br />
36 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
CLOCKWISE FROM<br />
LEFT: SWALEDALE<br />
IN YORKSHIRE<br />
DALES<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
WINDS INTO<br />
THE NORTHERN<br />
PENNINES –<br />
FAMOUS FOR<br />
ITS MEADOWS,<br />
FIELD BARNS<br />
AND DRYSTONE<br />
WALLS; GLACIAL<br />
LAKE ANGLE<br />
TARN IN THE<br />
LAKE DISTRICT<br />
NATIONAL PARK;<br />
ROBIN HOODS<br />
BAY, YORKSHIRE.<br />
fences decorated with clumps of sheep’s wool.<br />
Flower meadows are interspersed with fields of<br />
crops, before giving way to moorland covered<br />
in purple heather. As the miles pass, admire the<br />
historic town of Richmond, still dominated by a<br />
dramatic Norman castle, traverse the Cleveland<br />
Hills and ascend Blakey Ridge. Cross the moors to<br />
Glaisdale and Grosmont before striking out for the<br />
coast.<br />
Eventually you’ll turn south to follow the trail as<br />
it curls along the coastal cliffs from Whitby and its<br />
distinctive ruined abbey. Wainwright’s masterful<br />
route-planning means the beautiful tumble of<br />
Robin Hood’s Bay itself is hidden from sight until<br />
the very last mile. Round North Cheek and the redtiled<br />
roofs appear at last.<br />
Here, walk through the village to the water’s<br />
edge and stand on the slipway. Dip a toe in the<br />
ocean. Reflect on the challenge you’ve undertaken<br />
and bask in the satisfaction of crossing the<br />
country. Revel in the camaraderie you’ve enjoyed<br />
with fellow coast-to-coast walkers. Then fling the<br />
pebble you’ve carried from St Bees into the sea<br />
and seek out a pint of Wainwright’s ale – what else<br />
– to toast the end of your journey.<br />
THREE MORE TRAILS TO<br />
TACKLE IN THE UK<br />
—<br />
ENGLAND<br />
Hadrian’s Wall Path<br />
The complete route along the<br />
northernmost frontier of the Roman<br />
Empire spans 84 miles from the Solway<br />
Estuary in Cumbria to Segedunum<br />
(Wallsend) in Newcastle, passing<br />
through rolling fields and rugged<br />
borderlands, with plenty of chances to<br />
gain a rich insight into life in Roman<br />
Britain as you walk coast to coast.<br />
SCOTLAND<br />
West Highland Way<br />
Wind your way from Milngavie<br />
(Glasgow) to the foot of the UK’s<br />
highest mountain, Ben Nevis, at Fort<br />
William on Scotland’s premier longdistance<br />
trail. As you travel through<br />
remote Highland countryside, soaring<br />
mountains, the shores of Loch Lomond,<br />
the wilderness of Rannoch Moor,<br />
rushing rivers and giant forests combine<br />
to reward you with an ever-changing<br />
landscape.<br />
WALES<br />
Snowdonia Way<br />
Immerse yourself in the natural beauty<br />
of Snowdonia by walking among the<br />
mountains from the charming world<br />
heritage town of Conwy in the north<br />
to Dolgellau on the southern border of<br />
the national park. Follow valley trails,<br />
hillside paths and Roman roads to<br />
discover Aber Falls, summit Snowdon,<br />
explore the Aberglaslyn Gorge and bag<br />
the peak of Cader Idris.<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 37
YEOTOWN<br />
HALCYON<br />
DAYS IN DEVON<br />
It takes just one week at this award-winning<br />
life-affirming health retreat to feel your best. Located<br />
on the picturesque North Devon coastline, Yeotown is<br />
raising the bar with its holistic approach to wellness.<br />
Text by Jessica Way<br />
We all want to know the secrets to achieving optimum health. Yet,<br />
with no shortage of health documentaries, cookbooks and expert<br />
advice out there, most of us are still left searching for the answers.<br />
We know the importance of a healthy diet, exercise and enough<br />
sleep to maintain a healthy balance in our lives, but it is one thing to be told, and<br />
another to be shown as you live through the experience yourself.<br />
When the opportunity for a five-day Yeotox first came into my inbox<br />
I hesitated. Memories of punishing bootcamps with heavy detoxing on Bentonite<br />
clay and numerous pills while being cooped up with a group of strangers suffering<br />
from caffeine headache withdrawal, almost had me hitting the delete button<br />
quicker than a round of fastest-finger first.<br />
Then I remembered a friend had told me about a beautiful North Devon<br />
wellness retreat – one she recommended highly – describing it as both enjoyable<br />
and luxurious, a world apart from the juice-fasting calorie-counting fat farms –<br />
and yes this was the same one, this was Yeotown.<br />
Although offering some people the kick-start they need, extreme bootcamps<br />
are in my view similar to yo-yo dieting. Guests might shed the pounds and see <br />
38 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
“<br />
We felt that, based in the West Country and with our lifestyles of yoga,<br />
surfing, and plant-based diets, we could offer our own carefully curated UK<br />
based wellbeing programme...<br />
”<br />
some health improvements during and shortly after their<br />
stay, but so often they do not help people to address the<br />
underlying problems which need to be considered in order<br />
to maintain positive change for the long term.<br />
Yeotown Health Retreat takes a different approach<br />
– it is not so much about weight loss, although this can<br />
happen for guests – but about sustaining and maintaining<br />
a more mindful ‘lifestyle’. There's plenty of walking and<br />
cycling, delicious (largely vegan) meals, saunas, massage,<br />
ultra-luxurious accommodation, daily yoga and mindful<br />
workshop sessions. Yeotown describe this way of life as<br />
‘Wellgevity’ (living a long and illness free life).<br />
Owners Simon, an avid surfer and hiker, and Mercedes,<br />
one of the UK's top Vinyasa Flow Yoga instructors, have<br />
turned their own healthy lifestyle into a unique mindful<br />
experience for others to enjoy.<br />
“The idea behind Yeotown was to create a healing<br />
environment for guests to find a space to rebalance,<br />
de-stress and find healthier self-care practices for a long<br />
and happy life”, explains Simon who first met Mercedes<br />
during a yoga class in London, where she was teaching<br />
Vinyasa Flow having arrived from Sri Lanka where she had<br />
been doing Tsunami relief work.<br />
It was in 2009 when they first identified a space for<br />
wellbeing in the UK. “Friends of ours were travelling 3000<br />
miles across the Atlantic to the Ashram in Santa Monica<br />
for a week-long programme of yoga and hiking,” explains<br />
Simon. “We felt that, based in the West Country and with<br />
our lifestyles of yoga, surfing, and plant-based diets, we<br />
could offer our own carefully curated UK based wellbeing<br />
programme – and so we opened our doors to the first<br />
Yeotox guests in 2011”.<br />
Yeotown is set in 50 acres of rolling North Devon<br />
countryside with beautiful sandy beaches in both<br />
directions along the South West Coast Path for guests<br />
to relish mile-upon-mile of scenic hikes. “The connection<br />
between healing and nature is an important topic,” Simon<br />
explains, (one he predicts is going to grow substantially in<br />
the coming years), “especially now with so much science<br />
to prove it, and finding the right environment and location<br />
for Yeotown was fundamental to our success. North<br />
Devon with its abundance of nature, the Atlantic Ocean<br />
and fresh sea air was perfect”.<br />
Having previously owned a design and furniture<br />
business, Simon also had the skills needed to transform<br />
Yeotown. Set in the retreat there are five ultra-luxurious surfchic<br />
eco-lodges (each named after a key character strength<br />
and virtue in the ‘Science of Happiness’, including Gratitude,<br />
Courage, Wisdom and Curiosity), a fitness studio, sauna,<br />
four treatment rooms, a vegetable garden and outdoor hot<br />
tub with views out across the fields.<br />
Simon was keen to ensure the eco-farmhouse was<br />
designed with sustainability in mind, and he has committed<br />
to running the retreat with minimal impact on the<br />
environment.<br />
40 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
“All of our eco-cottages run on eco-technology, insulated<br />
with straw hay bale and powered by solar energy. We work<br />
only with eco-friendly suppliers.”<br />
Inside the farmhouse there are further bedrooms, two<br />
lounges with open fires, plenty of books and blankets, and<br />
rustic farmhouse kitchen complete with large farmhouse<br />
table adorned by a centrepiece wooden antler tiered ceiling<br />
pendant. Dotted about there are antiques, sculptures,<br />
paintings and other interesting artefacts, including Jimi<br />
Hendrix limited edition prints.<br />
The beautifully converted barn turned yoga studio with<br />
underfloor heating and wood-burning stove is located in<br />
a pretty courtyard, where there is a smell of incense and<br />
a family of beautiful white doves live and make coo call<br />
sounds during practice.<br />
Each day guests get time to relax with a muscle-melting<br />
massage, either Deep Tissue, Thai or Shiatsu. The local<br />
therapists at Yeotown are incredible, so much so that just 18<br />
months after launch, Yeotown was voted UK Spa Retreat of<br />
the Year by Conde Nast <strong>Travel</strong>ler magazine.<br />
“I think it’s because of the unspoilt nature in Devon that<br />
attracts a very connected and conscious crowd that we have<br />
been able to find the wonderful therapists and teachers we<br />
have working with us,” explains Simon.<br />
The atmosphere is extremely laid back and upbeat. All the<br />
staff including the kitchen staff, therapists, yoga teachers,<br />
and fitness guides seem so genuinely passionate to be a part<br />
of the team. In this warm environment, it doesn’t take long<br />
for the group to bond and there is an incredible fun-loving<br />
and supportive energy - whether you are a national athlete<br />
(like Olympic cyclist Victoria Pendleton, a recent guest),<br />
a highly successful CEO (such as previous guest Chrissie<br />
Rucker, founder of The White Company) or someone like<br />
me, just wanting to try something new.<br />
There is no calorie-counting or rations at Yeotown,<br />
just wholehearted meals with natural ingredients<br />
prepared by super-talented chefs. Think BBQ cauliflower<br />
wings, mushroom miso broth with crispy tofu, and the<br />
occasional locally-caught seafood treat – not to mention<br />
the scrumptious puddings including sunshine cake with<br />
turmeric passion fruit and orange cashew cream.<br />
Guests are not usually told what is happening more than<br />
45 minutes in advance as a way of enhancing the overall<br />
experience – encouraging a mental-cleanse as much as a<br />
physical one. While you are not given a day-to-day itinerary,<br />
you do get a sense of routine from the usual 7.30am<br />
morning yoga class, followed by breakfast, then the first<br />
outdoor adventure of the day. The group are chauffeured<br />
by a Yeotown guide to a nearby idyllic spot for a morning of<br />
hiking, cycling, watersports or similar.<br />
All fitness abilities are well catered for, with options for<br />
joining different groups taking on challenges with varied<br />
difficulty levels where everyone is supported without<br />
judgement. From cycling 15 miles along a disused railway<br />
line from Great Torrington to Barnstaple on the Tarka Trail<br />
to passing by feral goats on the jagged cliff edges of the<br />
famously u-shaped Valley of Rocks.<br />
You are exercising of course, but super fit ex-army guide<br />
Mo and ex-tennis professional and yogi Bertie, manage to<br />
support and ensure every guest is smiling and laughing from<br />
start to finish. <br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 41
FIRST SPREAD: THE COURTYARD AND WHITE DOVES.<br />
PREVIOUS SPREAD: SIMON AND MERCEDES SIEFF;<br />
ECO-LODGE; HOT TUB. LEFT-RIGHT: LOVE AND BE LOVED<br />
ECO COTTAGE; JESSICA ENJOYS NORTH DEVON COASTLINE<br />
DURING A HIKE; BLUE SPIRULINA BLUEBERRY PANCAKES;<br />
PINK PITAYA BANANA AND MANGO SMOOTHIE BOWL.<br />
Back at the ranch, a member of the team stands<br />
ready to greet you with a Yeotini, anything from<br />
a vegan hot chocolate, chai latte to a refreshing<br />
immunity-boosting juice. Following a nutritious lunch,<br />
the rest of the day is a surprise mixture of mindfulness<br />
and meditation, fitness and strength training, nutritional<br />
workshops and cookery sessions - with a few unusual<br />
activities thrown in for good measure, including selfhealing<br />
and energising group singing lessons and qigong<br />
sessions.<br />
Outside of the main weekly programme there are<br />
also a wide range of different experiences at Yeotown<br />
including surfing, open water swimming, coasteering,<br />
as well as other treatments including Reiki, Reflexology,<br />
Hypnotherapy, and (Simon’s personal favourite)<br />
Kinesiology.<br />
Simon is also passionate that they are fortunate to be<br />
working with some of the UK’s leading experts in their<br />
fields such as psychotherapist Julia Samuel, Ironman<br />
Triathlon Champion and sports doctor specialising in<br />
Biohacking, Dr Tamsin Lewis, Gut Health specialist<br />
Lucinda Miller and menopause coach, Mariella Frostrup.<br />
“We have a number of programmes each year where<br />
alongside the usual Yeotox activities we have added input<br />
from experts in their field – we call these our collaboration<br />
retreats”. Yeotown even has their own Devon version of Wim<br />
Hoff, surfer, swim coach, triathlete in the Arctic circle and<br />
cold water immersion specialist, Paul Irwin.<br />
Paul takes Yeotown groups to the River Yeo just across<br />
the fields from the farmhouse each week for cold water<br />
immersions. “The benefits of cold water immersions are<br />
plentiful both for physical health and mental wellbeing”,<br />
explains Simon.<br />
“On a physical level exposure to cold water, whether<br />
an immersion or even a cold shower, boosts your body's<br />
immune system. Wim Hoff talks about how we are<br />
degrading our immune systems by choosing to live in<br />
18-degree temperature-controlled environments and<br />
thereby not challenging them.<br />
To me as a year-round surfer, this makes sense and I am<br />
lucky to rarely get colds or other illnesses as my immune<br />
system is being challenged on a regular basis. On a mental<br />
and wellbeing level we see groups coming back from the<br />
sessions 'high' from the experience”.<br />
In Devon you see people swimming in bathing suits<br />
embracing the cold Atlantic for its health benefits all<br />
year round, and Yeotown is a great place to give it a go,<br />
especially as a first-timer. If however, you prefer a warmer<br />
climate, then perhaps Simon and Mercedes' new retreat in<br />
Madeira could be the better option for you.<br />
“Madeira is a stunning island also known as the ‘Hawaii<br />
of the Atlantic’ just a three-hour flight from the UK. The<br />
nature there is much like Devon but ‘on steroids’. It’s a<br />
small island with a 2000m high mountain range located<br />
in the middle – so you can be hiking in the clouds in the<br />
morning and swimming in crystal clear waters of 22<br />
degrees in the afternoon,” explains Simon.<br />
42 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
“<br />
Sometimes our guests feel guilty about taking time out for themselves, but it<br />
is really important for people’s well-being. We always say if you are not healthy,<br />
grounded and happy then you won’t be of so much good to those around you.<br />
”<br />
With two children (Rumi and Indra) at school near the<br />
retreat, North Devon is still very much their family home,<br />
but they will now spend time in Madeira each year as<br />
well as taking regular trips to their London restaurant –<br />
Sussex Gardens. Based in London’s first Mindfulness hotel,<br />
Inhabit Hotel (www.inhabithotels.com), Sussex Gardens<br />
is about to expand into a new, larger flagship restaurant<br />
at the hotel, complete with their signature complimentary<br />
Yeotown Meditation Pods.<br />
Simon believes in four main pillars for optimum health;<br />
nutrition, exercise, yoga and meditation and sleep.<br />
Each evening little cards and herbal teas or other<br />
small gifts are left in your room as reminders of the<br />
important pillars Simon describes, re-inforcing some of<br />
your daily workshops. The importance of breathing into<br />
your diaphragm (as opposed to your chest) for example,<br />
avoiding using electronics, (answering emails, browsing<br />
news, etc), or anything that may take you out of your<br />
relaxed state. We learned from a sleep specialist that it<br />
is not so much the blue light from your phone that keeps<br />
you awake at night but more the stimulation of all the<br />
information and messages your brain is calculating –<br />
especially as you scroll through social media feeds.<br />
And my favourite, a reminder that “sleep is the golden<br />
chain that ties health and our bodies together,” and that the<br />
science behind the proven health and wellbeing benefits of<br />
getting a good night’s sleep is stronger than ever.<br />
With it, a Yeotown specially crafted sleep-spray made<br />
using fresh, pure Devon water from their very own River Yeo<br />
running through the retreat. Following your deep breathing<br />
exercises you are encouraged to simply spritz some over<br />
your pillow a few times and enjoy a deep night sleep.<br />
After a full day of activities, a bath filled with organic<br />
bath salt, heated fluffy towels, beautifully soft dressing<br />
gowns and crisp white bed linen from The White<br />
Company, uber comfortable beds, and the scent of<br />
geranium and lavender it is easy to fall into a quick deep<br />
sleep at Yeotown.<br />
Then the most important part of all, taking a little of the<br />
Yeotown magic home with you. Whatever that might mean<br />
to you. For some that could be a life-changing turnaround,<br />
as with the youngest of our group, deciding to pack in her<br />
marketing job in book publishing to travel the world, others<br />
were left glowing from their weight loss more determined<br />
now than ever to continue on their better-body journey,<br />
and for me, I have continued my daily yoga sessions, kept<br />
off the coffee, and introduced a more plant-based diet into<br />
my home. I regularly make my own blue spirulina banana<br />
Yeotown smoothies (delicious!) and have settled into a<br />
much better sleep routine - which is thanks also to my new<br />
Lumie clock and Egyptian Cotton bed linen and Sleep<br />
Soothing Pillow Mist from The White Company. Overall,<br />
I feel more positive, fitter and healthier. Do I feel more<br />
mindful? Yes, thank you Yeotown, there’s no doubt I do.<br />
“Sometimes our guests feel guilty about taking time<br />
out for themselves”, Simon concludes, “but it is really<br />
important for people’s well-being. We always say if you are<br />
not healthy, grounded and happy then you won’t be of so<br />
much good to those around you”.<br />
Yeotown is running a collaboration retreat with Lucinda<br />
Miller founder of Nature.doc Happy Gut, Happy Mind<br />
between 5-9 October <strong>2022</strong> in Devon. Prices from £1950<br />
all-inclusive, per person. The retreat is open all year round,<br />
every week from Wednesday to Sunday.<br />
yeotown.com<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 43
SKYE<br />
GYNGELL<br />
Recently awarded a Michelin Green Star,<br />
sustainability lies at the heart of luxury<br />
Hampshire hotel Heckfield Place.<br />
Its culinary director and one of Britain’s<br />
most respected chefs, Skye Gyngell, talks<br />
seasonality, simplicity and sense of place.<br />
Text by Sophie Farrah<br />
44 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
Tucked away in leafy Hampshire lies Heckfield Place,<br />
a grand Georgian home and sprawling 400-acre<br />
estate that redefines the idea of a luxury hotel for the<br />
modern age. Here, nature is king, and every effort has<br />
been made to enable guests to slow down and feel a sense of<br />
connection to their surroundings. From the handcrafted natural<br />
materials used throughout the stylish, soothing interiors, to the<br />
ever-changing seasonal menus that use fresh produce from the<br />
hotel’s very own farm, dairy and orchards, Heckfield exudes a<br />
uniquely serene sense of place.<br />
“It could be the 18th century, or it could be 2025 - time seems<br />
to stop at Heckfield,” muses Skye Gyngell; the hotel’s culinary<br />
director and one of Britain’s most acclaimed chefs.<br />
“And even though it’s so close to London, it feels a world away.”<br />
Skye has overseen all things edible at Heckfield Place since<br />
its conception and subsequent opening in 2018. Today, she<br />
divides her time between chic London restaurant <strong>Spring</strong> and the<br />
recuperative country escape, which has 39 beautiful bedrooms<br />
and six sumptuous suites. When it comes to the hotel’s food<br />
offering, Skye’s signature style of simplicity, seasonality and<br />
sustainability is evident throughout.<br />
“From day one, we wanted to make everything at Heckfield. Every<br />
jam, every cordial, the breads and pastries, the liquors in the bar,<br />
the ice cream - everything. We also produce our own eggs and<br />
honey, and we have our own dairy, so we make things like yoghurt<br />
and milk. We even have a Heckfield cheese,” she explains.<br />
“It’s a huge undertaking, but we’ve really tried to capture that<br />
sense of place. Guests love that the cream in their coffee or the<br />
milk in their porridge has come from the estate, and that’s what<br />
we’re trying to do - it's about making that connection to your<br />
surroundings and enjoying the immediacy of it,” she adds.<br />
“It definitely tastes better and has more nutritional value too.<br />
Blueberries from Peru are just not the same as a ripe plum that<br />
has been picked in the orchard that morning.”<br />
Originally from Australia, Syke realised her love for cooking<br />
whilst working in a small deli in Sydney when she was a<br />
teenager. She promptly quit university, where she was studying <br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 45
“<br />
When you work really seasonally,<br />
you get so excited about ingredients.<br />
My style of food is quite ‘magpie’,<br />
I take bits and pieces from everywhere,<br />
...provenance is really important.<br />
”<br />
law, trained as a chef and moved to London, where<br />
she landed the role of head chef at the now renowned<br />
Petersham Nurseries Café. Skye quickly became wellknown<br />
for her distinctively seasonal, elegant cooking<br />
and in 2011, it earned her a Michelin star.<br />
“I wasn't particularly confident as a teenager and<br />
I realised that as soon as I was in the kitchen, I felt<br />
comfortable and grounded. It became my happy<br />
place,” she explains. “I love it today as much as I did<br />
when I first started 40 years ago.”<br />
Each day, all manner of fresh ingredients are<br />
harvested from Heckfield’s bio-dynamic garden and<br />
certified-organic farm, ready to be served in one of the<br />
hotel’s two beautiful restaurants. There’s the light-filled<br />
Marle, which earlier this year was awarded a Michelin<br />
Green Star, a prestigious accolade that recognises an<br />
outstanding commitment to sustainability as well as<br />
culinary excellence.<br />
Here, guests can enjoy the likes of Heckfield lamb<br />
with broad beans, peas, turnips and horseradish<br />
cream, farm leaves with shallot vinaigrette, and<br />
hazelnut meringue cake with homemade rhubarb ice<br />
cream. At Hearth, once the estate stable, a smaller,<br />
curated selection of dishes is cooked over an open<br />
fire; the five-course tasting menu, exclusively for hotel<br />
guests, is not to be missed.<br />
“When you work really seasonally, you get so excited<br />
about ingredients. My style of food is quite ‘magpie’,<br />
I take bits and pieces from everywhere, but the one<br />
thread that goes through it all is purity of ingredients.<br />
Provenance is really important,” explains Skye.<br />
“All the menus at Heckfield are incredibly producedriven,<br />
with every ingredient speaking for itself. It’s very<br />
stripped back cooking.”<br />
Further gastronomic delights to be unearthed at<br />
the hotel include cocktails made with ingredients from<br />
the gardens, served under a giant disco ball in the<br />
celestial-inspired Moon Bar. In the warmer months,<br />
a sumptuous, seasonal afternoon tea is served in the<br />
light-flooded Glasshouse tucked away in the garden<br />
and, whatever the weather, a freshly baked cake<br />
appears in the House each afternoon.<br />
“We always leave one lovely cake out for people<br />
to help themselves to, like it was their own house. We<br />
make all our own jams for the cakes too,” smiles Skye.<br />
46 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
PREVIOUS PAGE: SKYE GYNGELL.<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: BOX OF<br />
PRODUCE FROM HECKFIELD HOME<br />
FARM; ICE CREAM MADE USING<br />
FRESH HECKFIELD CREAM; SEASONAL<br />
DISHES; SEASONAL DESSERT; MARLE<br />
RESTAURANT; SOURDOUGH BREAD.<br />
After a slice (or two…), there is plenty of opportunity to<br />
enjoy the great <strong>British</strong> countryside, from wild swimming<br />
and boating on the estate’s beautiful lakes to guided<br />
garden walks and regular tours of the farm. Luxurious<br />
treatments at the hotel’s Little Bothy use ethically<br />
sourced, all-natural products from the hotel’s own<br />
Wildsmith Skin range, and a larger spa with an indoor<br />
infinity pool is due to open later this year. Back at the<br />
House, there’s a state-of-the-art cinema room and event<br />
space, an extensive library and an elegant Drawing<br />
Room, where board games and squishy sofas await.<br />
“There’s plenty to do, but it’s a slow pace. We’re so<br />
busy and over stimulated in life; at Heckfield you can just<br />
curl up with the newspaper and listen to the crackle of<br />
the fire. It’s an incredibly restorative place,” says Skye.<br />
And while guests soak up Heckfield’s soothing ambience,<br />
it is of course a different story in the kitchen for Skye<br />
and her busy team, but as the old adage goes; ‘if you do<br />
what you love, you'll never work a day in your life’…<br />
“I'm definitely not as quick as everybody else in the<br />
kitchen, it's very much a young person's game. It's long<br />
hours, you need a lot of physical and mental energy, but<br />
“I love it,” Skye explains. “I would have been a terrible<br />
lawyer, anyway.”<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 47
10 OF THE BEST<br />
UNIQUE LUXURY<br />
BREAKS<br />
Need inspiration for a short break? We bring you the most interesting<br />
experiences that promise to make exploration more memorable this spring.<br />
Text by Natalie Paris<br />
48 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
1<br />
SEA SAFARI FROM A SCOTTISH<br />
CASTLE<br />
Combining the luxury of living in a castle with<br />
coastal exploration and wildlife spotting, this<br />
carefully curated break in the Hebrides has<br />
both style and substance. Two nights are spent<br />
relaxing at Glenapp Castle, a Relais & Chateaux hotel<br />
with a 110-acre estate in Ayrshire. The next two will<br />
see guests striking out on a coastal adventure to the<br />
remote island of Jura and a glamping site, where tents<br />
are equipped with hot showers, duvets and tartan rugs.<br />
A colony of seals can be seen on Jura year-round and<br />
guests will take a rib boat to other islands too, stopping<br />
off at Ailsa Craig, a sanctuary teeming with birdlife.<br />
Longer, bespoke trips to more remote islands can be<br />
arranged too, with a private chef on board.<br />
glenappcastle.com<br />
Four nights from £3,250 per person<br />
2<br />
HIKING AND A SPA IN THE PEAKS<br />
What could be better than lungfuls of fresh<br />
air and Peak District views, followed by welldeserved<br />
pampering time? Buxton’s beautiful<br />
new luxury hotel, the Buxton Crescent, opened<br />
in 2020, putting the spa town back on the map.<br />
The hotel is offering a new, invigorating wellness break that<br />
makes the most of its natural mineral water and setting.<br />
Spa treatments utilise the therapeutic properties of water<br />
and guests can enjoy them after two guided hikes in the<br />
area. The Achieve Peak Health programme includes hikes<br />
that are tailored to guests’ needs and discussed with them<br />
prior to their stay. They could include popular walks, such<br />
as up to Mam Tor or Kinder Scout, or quieter routes. Three<br />
tailored spa treatments will follow, including a mud pack,<br />
underwater jet massage and a CO2 infusion mineral bath.<br />
ensanahotels.com/buxton/en<br />
Three nights’ dinner, b&b, with two hikes and three<br />
treatments, from £650 per person<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 49
WALKING &<br />
ACTIVITY HOLIDAYS<br />
GREAT REASONS TO BOOK WITH HF HOLIDAYS<br />
Over 100 years experience providing guided walking and special interest breaks<br />
18 UK country houses in iconic walking locations<br />
Experienced and friendly leaders<br />
Full Board accommodation on all UK country house breaks<br />
Perfect for Solos or Groups<br />
TO REQUEST A BROCHURE OR BOOK VISIT HFHOLIDAYS.CO.UK | CALL 020 3974 8878
3<br />
CLASSIC CARS IN THE NEW FOREST<br />
Wind past ancient woodland in the New Forest on<br />
this break that is a treat for anyone who admires<br />
<strong>British</strong> motors. Country house hotel The Montagu<br />
Arms is offering a fabulous fleet of classic sports<br />
cars to guests who might enjoy driving in serious<br />
style through this national park. Cars available include a red<br />
1966 Jaguar E-Type, a 1967 Austin Healey 3000 MK III, and a<br />
Gardner Douglas 427 Cobra.<br />
The package includes a stay in one of the hotel’s courtyard<br />
rooms, which, in the 1920’s, contained the house’s garages. In<br />
the evening, guests can enjoy a seven-course tasting menu with<br />
paired wine in the hotel’s three AA Rosette Terrace Restaurant.<br />
Two tickets to the Beaulieu Motor Museum, just down the road, are<br />
included too. You could even drive there.<br />
montaguarmshotel.co.uk<br />
One night’s dinner, b&b with car hire, from £997 for two people<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 51
4<br />
SNOWDONIA STEAM<br />
AND CYCLE<br />
From coast to mountaintop, this varied<br />
trip across Snowdonia involves both<br />
cycling and genteel train travel. Devised<br />
by Carter & Co, the journey includes<br />
a stay in the colourful village of Portmeirion, where<br />
The Prisoner was filmed, and where train trips to the<br />
slate village of Blaenau Ffestiniog and down to the<br />
Llechwedd Deep Mine on a steep cable railway are<br />
possible. It then travels through the Welsh countryside<br />
to Mount Snowdon – which can be ascended by steam<br />
train. A cycle along the Menai Straits ends the trip on<br />
the island of Anglesey in a luxurious Welsh chateau.<br />
The other nights are spent in boutique hotels. The<br />
tour is self-guided and involves five days of cycling,<br />
though E-bikes are available to make hills easier to<br />
tackle and train travel is occasionally an alternative.<br />
the-carter-company.com<br />
Seven nights from £2,520 per person<br />
5<br />
LAKE SWIMMING AND WATERFALLS<br />
<strong>Spring</strong> may not be the most obvious season for<br />
wild swimming but this is when a dip can be most<br />
beneficial for our bodies. Experts say cold water<br />
swimming can increase our white blood cell count,<br />
boost immunity and release antioxidants. It is also<br />
when you are most likely to witness those photogenic scenes<br />
of mist hanging on the water.<br />
17th-century Armathwaite Hall is a hotel located on the<br />
shores of Bassenthwaite Lake. This quiet lake, backed by<br />
views of Skiddaw Mountain, is recommended as an excellent<br />
spot for swimming. The hotel provides a wild swimming coach<br />
to ensure guests can take a dip safely here, as well as at a<br />
natural infinity pool nearby and in waterfalls at Buttermere<br />
over the course of half a day. If you are looking for a ‘nature<br />
reset’ you might also enjoy their two hour Forest Bathing<br />
experience followed by a 55-minute full body massage.<br />
prideofbritainhotels.com<br />
One night’s dinner, b&b and guided wild swimming from £320<br />
for two people. Two hour Forest bathing experience costs £110<br />
per person (based on a minimum of two people)<br />
52 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
6<br />
EPIC ROAD TRIP ADVENTURE<br />
Embrace the wilder side of the UK with<br />
a tour of some of its most magnificent<br />
driving routes in an expedition Land<br />
Rover. Celtic Routes has devised a new<br />
trip that combines driving Scotland’s North<br />
Coast 500 with the Causeway Coastal 120 in Ireland.<br />
The company says it has enhanced the north coast<br />
route, which encounters dramatic stretches of coast,<br />
castles and enigmatic lochs. Motorists will then take a<br />
catamaran across to Belfast for the Causeway Coastal.<br />
Optional activities are possible along both routes, from<br />
sea kayaking to horseriding and 4x4 experiences. It is<br />
also possible to celebrate the end of the journey with<br />
a two Michelin-star dinner at Moore Hall, Aughton.<br />
There is an option to have a fully guided trip or a<br />
self-guided journey in a Land Rover loaded up with a<br />
bespoke guide and navigation app. Accommodation<br />
includes converted castles, lodges and country inns.<br />
celticroute.com<br />
Twelve days from £2,100 self guided, or £2950 fully guided<br />
7<br />
HORSE WHISPERING AT<br />
LUCKNAM PARK<br />
The stables are one of two features<br />
that set this fine country house hotel<br />
apart – the other is its high-quality<br />
spa. Guests who know nothing about<br />
horses will gain an incredible insight into the<br />
handsome animals – and perhaps even themselves<br />
– if they try the hotel’s Equine Connect experience.<br />
After watching a horse trainer guide a bucking<br />
young stallion round a training ring, guests are<br />
invited into the ring themselves with one of the<br />
calmer horses. The animal is unbridled and, by<br />
using nothing but their own body language,<br />
guests are taught to encourage the horse to<br />
canter. After some circling around, if the guest is<br />
relaxed enough for the horse to approach, it will<br />
submit by dropping its head and walking to the<br />
centre of the ring to nuzzle the guest’s hand.<br />
In what is often an emotional experience, the<br />
horse might then follow the guest around, with no<br />
commands necessary.<br />
lucknampark.co.uk<br />
One night with one Equine Connect experience, from<br />
£500 for two people<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 53
8RURAL SKILLS IN THE COTSWOLDS<br />
Learning holidays are a trend for <strong>2022</strong> and<br />
there are lots of opportunities to pick up a skill<br />
in the pretty Cotswolds. Guests staying in one of<br />
Cotswolds Hideaways’ premium cottages can turn<br />
their hand to a range of rural skills, from dry-stone<br />
walling, to fossil-hunting or campfire-cooking. The Cotswold<br />
Stone Experience, for example, incorporates looking for fossils<br />
with time spent at a quarry learning a history of the area’s<br />
sought-after, honey-coloured stone. Alternatively, in woodland<br />
once belonging to Henry VIII, firewood will be gathered, logs<br />
split and a meal cooked outdoors. The dry stone-walling course,<br />
meanwhile, will see participants help build a wall that will<br />
hopefully still be standing in the Cotswolds in two hundred years’<br />
time. The dates of each course vary, see online.<br />
cotswoldshideaways.co.uk<br />
Three nights in Dyers Cottage (sleeps three) near Cheltenham with<br />
dry-stone walling from £701 for two people<br />
54 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
Find your special place<br />
A portfolio of over 600 luxury, self-catering holiday homes<br />
in the UK and Northern Ireland<br />
From contemporary coastal barn conversions to charming<br />
thatched cottages, we’ve hand-picked the very best properties<br />
to bring you holiday memories to treasure.<br />
01386 897 959<br />
ruralretreats.co.uk
Escape to Killeavy Castle Estate<br />
Enjoy luxury accommodation, award-winning dining and an indulgent spa experience in the<br />
foothills of the majestic Slieve Gullion, Northern Ireland. Book your Summer Staycation now.<br />
12 Ballintemple Road, Killeavy, Newry,<br />
County Armagh, Northern Ireland, BT35 8LQ<br />
killeavycastle.com +44 (0) 28 3044 4888<br />
Get closer to what’s important.
9TROUT FISHING IN DEVON<br />
Bordering moorland in the Dartmoor<br />
National Park, Bovey Castle is a granite<br />
country house hotel set in a wooded valley,<br />
with a golf course and an ESPA spa. One<br />
of the most peaceful ways of enjoying the<br />
hotel’s lush grounds is by trying a spot of fly-fishing<br />
in the hotel lake, which is filled with brown trout. No<br />
prior knowledge of fishing is necessary as a “ghillie” – an<br />
expert fishing guide – will be provided to show guests<br />
everything they need to do to cast off. With any luck,<br />
they will be shown how to reel in their own catch too.<br />
After an hour’s fishing (for beginners, experienced<br />
fishermen can have longer), guests can tuck into a picnic<br />
hamper – made with local Devon produce – in an idyllic<br />
spot on the lake shore. Guests can stay either in the main<br />
hotel or in one of 22 self-catered country lodges.<br />
boveycastle.com<br />
One night with a fishing licence and beginner’s lesson,<br />
from £400<br />
IMAGE © TOWER BANK ARMS WINDERMERE NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES / PAUL HARRIS<br />
10<br />
SKIPPERED CRUISE ON<br />
WINDERMERE<br />
Who needs the Italian lakes when<br />
you can tour Lake Windermere in<br />
a vintage-style, <strong>British</strong>-built boat?<br />
Abigail Leah is a sleek, teak-andmahogany<br />
slipper launch designed by the renowned<br />
boatbuilders Peter Freebody & Co. She arrives on April<br />
1 at Storrs Hall, a country house hotel with an enviable<br />
position on Windermere’s shore. Guests can embark on<br />
a two-hour cruise from the hotel’s own jetty, on a voyage<br />
that celebrates the arrival of spring on the slopes of the<br />
fells surrounding the lake. The boat comfortably seats<br />
up to five people for chilled prosecco and luxury picnics<br />
can also be arranged. The grounds at Storrs Hall include<br />
lawns that overlook a quiet side of the lake. Luxury cabins<br />
come with cedar-wood hot tubs, while more traditional<br />
bedrooms with lake views are found in the main building.<br />
storrshall.com<br />
Two-night stay and two-hour cruise from £700 for two<br />
people<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 57
THE MOST<br />
SCENIC<br />
TOURING<br />
ROUTES<br />
IN BRITAIN AND IRELAND<br />
With more than 50 touring routes to discover,<br />
you’re never far away from a scenic adventure.<br />
Ease up on the accelerator and lace up your<br />
walking boots, as you savour these fabulous<br />
roads, trails and footpaths in your own time.<br />
Text by Caroline Mills<br />
58 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 59
Touring is not about rushing<br />
to a final destination. it’s an<br />
opportunity to experience a<br />
journey slowly, soaking up<br />
immense scenery along the<br />
route, taking time to walk, cycle, cruise and<br />
enjoy numerous attractions while sampling<br />
fantastic local produce along the way.<br />
Here, we bring you a selection of the very<br />
best touring routes – some classics, some<br />
lesser-known together with a sprinkling of<br />
new routes for exploring alternative locales.<br />
WALES<br />
Condensed beauty is a way to describe<br />
touring through Wales. For such a pocketsized<br />
country, the scenery is gigantic. Huge<br />
mountain vistas, a long coastline of rocky<br />
cliffs and sweeping bays, and vast inland<br />
panoramas.<br />
Much of this can be explored along The<br />
Wales Way (thewalesway.com), which is a<br />
trio of routes that, collectively, allow the<br />
traveller to experience classic samples of<br />
Welsh scenery, heritage and culture. The<br />
North Wales Way travels from Broughton, on<br />
the border with England, to Holyhead, on<br />
the island of Anglesey.<br />
The self-explanatory Coastal Way covers<br />
180 miles from Aberdaron, on the Llyn<br />
Peninsula, to St David’s, the village-sized<br />
city in Pembrokeshire.<br />
Completing the trio is The Cambrian Way,<br />
the longest of the three routes at 185 miles,<br />
which follows the spine of Wales from north<br />
to south, beginning and ending in Llandudno<br />
and Cardiff, crossing two national parks –<br />
Snowdonia and the Brecon Beacons.<br />
Less well-known is Marine Drive, a<br />
miniature touring route on the north coast.<br />
The tiny five-mile toll road (free for cyclists)<br />
circumnavigates Great Orme Head.<br />
Along the way are outstanding coastal<br />
views of Anglesey and Snowdonia, and<br />
opportunities to take the spur to the summit<br />
of Great Orme for cable car rides. Keep a<br />
look out for the wild Kashmir goats that<br />
roam the headland!<br />
What’s New?<br />
Most recent to join the collection of<br />
scenic tours in Wales is the Celtic Route<br />
(celticroutes.info). It’s not about following<br />
one specific road, rather an opportunity<br />
to explore the southwest counties of Wales<br />
– Carmarthenshire, Ceredigion and<br />
Pembrokeshire – and is linked to the Celtic<br />
Route on Ireland's east coast (see below).<br />
Neither is touring the Celtic Route solely<br />
about ancient history. Yes, the idea is to<br />
hark back to the region’s Celtic roots, but<br />
the scenic tour is more to enjoy immersive<br />
experiences, to understand the landscape,<br />
authenticity and heritage of the locales.<br />
It’s about leaving the Sat-Nav at home<br />
and taking the road less travelled to find<br />
distinguishing places and moments to<br />
make memories. The boon of Celtic Routes<br />
is that there’s no need to set aside weeks to<br />
complete any one journey or start and finish<br />
in specific places. It could be a day to explore<br />
one tiny locale, such as the Preseli Hills in<br />
Pembrokeshire, a long weekend to discover<br />
a stretch of coastline like the rugged cliffs<br />
around New Quay, or pick a theme and<br />
spend a week discovering the stories that<br />
make this Celtic land.<br />
Looking for somewhere to stay?<br />
Penally Abbey offers cosy, country hotelstyle<br />
refinement within five minutes of Tenby.<br />
Further east is Brown’s Hotel in Laugharne;<br />
the historic boutique residence was a<br />
favourite haunt of writer Dylan Thomas.<br />
For an inland hideaway, Jabajak offers<br />
individually furnished suites in a vineyard<br />
setting, with home-produced wines served in<br />
the bistro restaurant.<br />
60 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
scenery is the Snow Roads Scenic Route<br />
(snowroads.com), which crosses the<br />
Cairngorms National Park. The linear route<br />
explores 90 miles of spellbindingly beautiful<br />
countryside between Blairgowrie and<br />
Grantown-on-Spey.<br />
To add to the exhilaration, you’ll find<br />
various art installations along the way,<br />
such as the The Watchers, overlooking the<br />
magnificent Corgarff Castle, complete with<br />
photo posts to advise the best way to point<br />
your camera. To boot, a trip along the Snow<br />
Roads allows bragging rights of touring the<br />
highest public road in the <strong>British</strong> Isles.<br />
SCOTLAND<br />
For the sheer number of exceptional touring<br />
routes and scenic drives, Scotland is king.<br />
Whether exploring the castles of Aberdeen,<br />
the malt whisky of the Highlands, the history<br />
of the Scottish Borders or the Hebridean<br />
Way by bicycle, you’ll find a way. The route<br />
that became an overnight classic and put the<br />
Highlands literally on the map is the circular<br />
North Coast 500 (northcoast500.com).<br />
With 500 miles of mesmerising scenery,<br />
there’s the chance for seal-spotting and<br />
whale-watching on the east coast. Across<br />
the top, the Castle of Mey, the beloved<br />
holiday home of Her Majesty, Queen<br />
Elizabeth the Queen Mother, is a don’t miss<br />
attraction.<br />
But it’s the west coast that offers the<br />
greatest jewels – including a jewel-like sea<br />
when the sun shines. Balnakeil Bay, in the<br />
northwest corner, arguably tops all others.<br />
A lesser-known tour with remarkable<br />
What’s New?<br />
Many touring routes that have developed<br />
in Britain and Ireland over the past few<br />
years are big, world-beating drives that<br />
require much time and stamina to fully<br />
appreciate. Along comes the Kintyre 66,<br />
(wildaboutargyll.co.uk).<br />
World-beating, yes, but it’s bite-sized in<br />
comparison to others. The 66-mile circular<br />
route in Argyll takes in the stunning scenery of<br />
the Kintyre peninsula, sandwiched between<br />
the Kilbrannan Sound and Sound of Gigha.<br />
Skipness Castle, Davaar Island, Campbeltown<br />
– the ‘capital’ of the peninsula – and the<br />
extraordinary sandy Machrihanish Bay are<br />
mere tasters of what to see. For an extension<br />
to the tour, a trip to the Mull of Kintyre, the<br />
headland in the far southwest of the peninsula,<br />
is a highlight. Walking (including the Kintyre<br />
Way), cycling plus a round of golf are inevitable.<br />
Looking for somewhere to stay? If you’re<br />
short on time, the loop is ‘doable’ in a<br />
day. But that’s an injustice; better to stay<br />
a while on the Torrisdale Castle Estate for<br />
self-catered luxury, or The Royal Hotel in<br />
Campbeltown when you’d prefer someone<br />
else to wash up. <br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 61
ENGLAND<br />
There have been few acclaimed longdistance<br />
touring routes in England until<br />
recent years, despite its comparative<br />
size. A classic is the Great West Way<br />
(greatwestway.co.uk) that links London and<br />
Bristol. Developed as a leisurely 125-mile<br />
tour in 2019, the route evolved from the<br />
centuries-old Great West Road, which was<br />
commissioned by King Charles I to expedite<br />
the delivery of post.<br />
Today, the Great West Way covers a<br />
15-mile-wide network of roads, footpaths,<br />
cycle trails, rail and canal towpaths, and<br />
many notable attractions to suit every<br />
interest through multiple counties, including<br />
Berkshire, Wiltshire and Somerset.<br />
62 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com<br />
Less-well known is The Explorer’s Road<br />
(explorersroad.com), a 300-mile route<br />
between Hertfordshire and Berwick-upon-<br />
Tweed. The touring route, which loosely<br />
follows the A1, was developed to encourage<br />
tourists from the Netherlands and Germany<br />
to visit. Regardless, anyone can follow the route<br />
to discover historic cities like Cambridge,<br />
Lincoln, York and Newcastle, and quaint<br />
towns such as Oakham and Uppingham in<br />
Rutland, England’s smallest county.<br />
What’s new?<br />
The South West 660 (southwest660.com),<br />
the very latest outstanding touring route to<br />
enjoy, is one to set time aside for. The route<br />
follows the coastline from Poole in Dorset<br />
to Watchet in Somerset, taking in iconic<br />
IMAGES © VISITSCOTLAND / KENNY LAM / GREAT WEST WAY
FIRST SPREAD: AERIAL<br />
VIEW OF CEREDIGION.<br />
PREVIOUS SPREAD:<br />
ASTON MARTIN ON THE<br />
NORTH WALES WAY;<br />
THE CAMBRIAN WAY.<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:<br />
VIEW FROM STAC<br />
POLLAIDH, SUTHERLAND;<br />
CHERHILL DOWNS ON<br />
THE GREAT WEST WAY.<br />
NEXT SPREAD: ROAD TO<br />
MOLLS GAP, CO KERRY,<br />
IRELAND.<br />
sites like Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door<br />
in Dorset, the English Riviera and beautiful<br />
Dartmouth in South Devon, and the wild<br />
beauty of Kynance Cove, St Michael’s<br />
Mount and Cape Cornwall as you tour the<br />
‘boot’ of Cornwall.<br />
The route continues along the north<br />
coast of Cornwall, taking in St Ives,<br />
Tintagel and Boscastle before placing the<br />
ruggedness of the North Devon coast centre<br />
stage. Here, the gorgeous fishing villages<br />
of Hartland Quay, Clovelly, Appledore<br />
and Mortehoe, each with tiny terraces of<br />
fishermen’s cottages, create the backdrop<br />
for your tour before climbing for, arguably,<br />
the finest scenery of the route – Exmoor<br />
National Park.<br />
Though 660 miles in all, the route has<br />
been split into 12 sections of around 50<br />
miles, each offering differing characteristics.<br />
It’s possible to drive the route in a week,<br />
though you’d barely step out of the car to<br />
stretch your legs. Our recommendation<br />
would be to take your time over three to four<br />
weeks, giving a week to each of the four<br />
counties.<br />
Looking for somewhere to stay?<br />
For Dorset, try The Pig on the Beach in<br />
Studland or, slightly inland, The Ollerod in<br />
Beaminster. For an extraordinary location,<br />
the Burgh Island Hotel is your destination in<br />
– or, actually, off the coast of – South Devon.<br />
In Cornwall, The Idle Rocks in St Mawes is a<br />
great choice though if you wish to be king or<br />
queen of your own castle, Pentillie Castle in<br />
Saltash offers exclusive stays.<br />
For a hotel that shouts ‘look-at-me’, you’ll<br />
need the Art Deco Saunton Sands Hotel<br />
and its pool with a view, but for something<br />
more hideaway and genteel, The Old<br />
Rectory Hotel within Exmoor National Park<br />
is an option. <br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 63
DISCOVER<br />
YOUR WAY<br />
We are offering two readers the<br />
chance to WIN a fabulous Great<br />
West Way break including travel<br />
with 2 Discoverer rail and bus<br />
passes, accommodation<br />
and more.<br />
To enter and find out more<br />
www.greatwestway.co.uk/win<br />
Begin your next adventure at<br />
GreatWestWay.co.uk<br />
#EscapetheEveryday
IRELAND<br />
If Scotland is king of scenic<br />
touring routes, Ireland certainly<br />
has some fit for a queen; Queen<br />
Victoria visited Kerry, the location<br />
of the island’s most famous<br />
touring route, in 1861. The 111-mile<br />
Ring of Kerry around the Iveragh<br />
Peninsula has become so popular<br />
that a one-way system has been<br />
implemented to avoid congestion.<br />
With the scenery of Killarney<br />
National Park, including the<br />
famous Ladies’ View (from said<br />
visit by the Queen), little wonder<br />
the route is hugely admired.<br />
Two other modern classics in<br />
Ireland include the Wild Atlantic<br />
Way (discoverireland.ie) – the<br />
giant of world-beating road trips<br />
at 1600-miles long – that takes<br />
in the entire west coastline from<br />
County Donegal to County Cork;<br />
and the 131-mile Causeway Coastal<br />
Route (discovernorthernireland.<br />
com) in Northern Ireland, that<br />
takes in the Giant’s Causeway.<br />
Legend has it that the giant Finn<br />
McCool created his own ‘touring’<br />
route to Scotland.<br />
Visitors to the UNESCO World<br />
Heritage Site today will get wet<br />
feet should they attempt such a<br />
trip; better to follow the coastal<br />
route on land between Belfast and<br />
Derry.<br />
What’s New?<br />
In collaboration with partners in<br />
Wales, Ireland has the other pairing<br />
of the Celtic Routes (celticroutes.<br />
info). Like its counterpart, there’s<br />
no one road to follow, but an entire<br />
region of distinct Celtic heritage<br />
to explore. One could spend a<br />
lifetime discovering this diverse<br />
region, so rich is it with ancient landand<br />
seascapes, from the rugged<br />
mountains of County Wicklow,<br />
iconic seascapes like the Hook<br />
Peninsula in County Wexford, or<br />
finding ancient standing stones in<br />
County Waterford. Set aside at least<br />
a fortnight to make in-roads.<br />
Looking for somewhere to stay?<br />
Take time out at the Dunbrody<br />
Country House Hotel, set in 300<br />
acres on the Hook Peninsula in<br />
County Wexford. For magnitude,<br />
the Palladian architecture of the<br />
Powerscourt Hotel offers wow<br />
factor in County Wicklow. In County<br />
Waterford, you can retreat to the<br />
Waterford Castle Resort, set on its<br />
own 310-acre island.<br />
OR JOIN AN EVENT...<br />
—<br />
Walkers will love a Mighty Hike<br />
Mighty Hikes, organised by<br />
Macmillan Cancer Support, are a<br />
fantastic series of one-day hiking<br />
marathons. From the Northern<br />
landscapes along the Ullswater Way<br />
from Dalemain to Lowther Castle to<br />
the magnificent Jurassic Coast from<br />
Weymouth to Wareham, past the<br />
iconic Durdle Door and Lulworth<br />
Cove, Mighty Hikes take you to some<br />
of the most beautiful and unspoiled<br />
parts of England, Scotland, Wales<br />
and Northern Ireland.<br />
Motorcyclists should join in the fun<br />
of The Highland Scramble<br />
A favourite with adventurer celebrities<br />
Charley Boorman and Joe Wicks,<br />
this curated all-inclusive adventure<br />
ride starts outside Edinburgh on the<br />
edge of Gleneagles golf resort in<br />
Auchterarder and winds its way<br />
across the breadth of Scotland covering<br />
nearly 1,000 miles over five days.<br />
Events run May–September <strong>2022</strong>.<br />
Cyclists should saddle up for a<br />
Ride Across Britain<br />
Push yourself to the limit and make<br />
memories to last a lifetime on one<br />
of the UK’s greatest two-wheeled<br />
challenges. Join hundreds of other<br />
cyclists from Land’s End to John<br />
O’Groats on the ultimate <strong>British</strong> bike<br />
ride – nearly 1,000 miles in nine days<br />
through marvellous landscapes.<br />
There’s full support en route – food,<br />
mechanics and medics – leaving<br />
you to focus wholly on making<br />
friends – and the road ahead (10–18<br />
September <strong>2022</strong>).<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 65
KILLEAVY CASTLE<br />
Explore the east coast of Ireland from the luxurious<br />
Killeavy Castle Estate.<br />
Set within 350 acres of woodland and working<br />
farmland in the foothills of Slieve Gullion<br />
in County Armagh, Northern Ireland, the<br />
luxurious Killeavy Castle Estate is the perfect<br />
base to explore Ireland, north and south.<br />
Just one hour from Dublin or Belfast, Killeavy Castle<br />
Estate has as its centrepiece the stunningly refurbished<br />
Killeavy Castle – a Grade A listed 19th century gem that<br />
lay derelict for many years before being sympathetically<br />
restored to its former glory. Alongside the Castle there<br />
is an award-winning 45-bedroom luxury boutique<br />
style Hotel, with spa, restaurant and bar, as well as a<br />
picturesque self-catering Gatelodge property.<br />
The Estate opened in 2019 following a £12m investment<br />
and sits within an area of outstanding natural beauty.<br />
While the history and majesty of Killeavy Castle embodies<br />
the luxury experience guests can enjoy, Killeavy is also<br />
grounded in an ethos of sustainability with a working farm<br />
and walled gardens providing 90% of the food served in<br />
the hotel’s award-winning restaurant.<br />
Not only does Killeavy Castle Estate pride itself on<br />
giving guests a first-class experience, it is also leading<br />
66 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
‘<br />
Guests can visit the farm animals,<br />
walk the walled gardens and see<br />
how expert artisans cure, smoke and<br />
preserve the meat that features on<br />
the Estate’s menus.<br />
’<br />
PROMOTION<br />
the way in sustainable tourism. A new Farm Store and<br />
Estate Garden open in March <strong>2022</strong> giving guests the<br />
opportunity to experience first-hand how the food for<br />
the Estate is produced. Guests can visit the farm animals,<br />
walk the walled gardens and see how expert artisans<br />
cure, smoke and preserve the meat that features on the<br />
Estate’s menus.<br />
Killeavy Castle Estate aims to create a legacy of<br />
sustainability throughout the Estate - that includes<br />
everything from the food that is served to its zero plastics<br />
policy, energy reduction and plans to restore the 19th<br />
century water wheel for renewable energy production.<br />
The Estate is working towards achieving net zero by<br />
2027 and has embarked upon a reforestation initiative<br />
that will see the replanting of Slieve Gullion with<br />
broadleaf trees.<br />
Guests can enjoy the magnificent countryside<br />
surrounding Killeavy Castle Estate with miles of scenic<br />
walking and cycling trails that can be accessed directly<br />
from the Estate. Foraging, forest bathing, mindfulness<br />
experiences and ebike hire are also on offer.<br />
Killeavy Castle Estate’s central location, just one hour<br />
from either Belfast or Dublin airports, makes it the perfect<br />
base to explore the East Coast of Ireland. Guests can take<br />
a daytrip north to visit Belfast with its vibrant shopping and<br />
entertainment scene. The world-leading Titanic Belfast<br />
celebrates its 10th anniversary this year and Belfast’s<br />
Cathedral Quarter, Ulster Museum, Botanic Gardens<br />
and St. George’s Market are all worth a visit.<br />
An hour’s journey south will allow guests to explore<br />
Ireland’s capital city, Dublin where the Guinness<br />
Storehouse, Book of Kells, Trinity College and the historic<br />
Dublin Castle all prove popular visitor attractions.<br />
Closer to home, in County Armagh, where Killeavy<br />
Castle Estate is situated, guests can explore the<br />
Cathedral City of Armagh or visit the Armagh Orchards,<br />
the 250-year-old Robinson Library with its display of rare<br />
books or the Armagh Planetarium.<br />
Game of Thrones fans can visit the first ever Game<br />
of Thrones tour opened in the world at the Linen Mill<br />
Studios, Banbridge, where fans will be treated to a set<br />
tour of all things surrounding the series.<br />
For the more adventurous, a short drive east takes you<br />
to County Down where you can climb the Mountains of<br />
Mourne and master Slieve Donard or visit St. Patrick’s<br />
grave and Visitor Centre in Downpatrick.<br />
Killeavy Castle Estate is the perfect location for a<br />
couple's retreat or romantic getaway. Not only does the<br />
Estate offer luxury and relaxation with the joy of getting<br />
back to nature, but its central location makes it the<br />
ideal base to explore the historic and vibrant cities and<br />
attractions of the surrounding area. ◆<br />
To find out more about Killeavy Castle Estate and<br />
make a reservation visit killeavycastle.com<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 67
EXPLORE THE UK'S<br />
NATIONAL<br />
PARKS<br />
WITH COLLINS’ NEW POCKET MAPS<br />
AND WALKING GUIDES<br />
68 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
PROMOTION<br />
Published in association with National<br />
Parks UK, Collins’ official Pocket Maps and<br />
Favourite Walks Guides are a must-have<br />
for any outdoor enthusiast with a desire to<br />
explore the UK’s National Parks.<br />
Offering handy guidance<br />
to each of the National<br />
Parks, the full range of<br />
small-format maps includes<br />
detailed mapping with key park, tourist<br />
and travel information along with a<br />
selection of photographs - ideal for<br />
planning visits to the National Park.<br />
Complementary Favourite Walks<br />
guides for eight of the National Parks<br />
contain 20 of the best circular walking<br />
routes, as chosen by National Park<br />
Rangers. Each walking route varies in<br />
length from two to 10km and can be<br />
completed in less than four hours. <br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 69
“<br />
Following a time when the natural<br />
world around us has been so important<br />
and beneficial to so many of us, it couldn’t<br />
feel more appropriate to publish these<br />
handy guides for visitors planning to<br />
enjoy our National Parks and explore the<br />
UK’s incredible landscape.<br />
”<br />
Alex Beecroft, Managing Director, Collins<br />
Detailed description for each walk is<br />
included, with highlights clearly marked on<br />
the map along with photographs. You’ll<br />
also find general information about the<br />
National Park plus basic advice on walking.<br />
“Collins is delighted to be working with<br />
National Parks UK to publish this new<br />
pocket series of maps and walking guides<br />
which are the perfect complement to more<br />
detailed Ordnance Survey maps,” said<br />
Alex Beecroft, Managing Director, Collins. ◆<br />
70 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
PREVIOUS SPREAD LEFT<br />
TO RIGHT: GRINDSLOW<br />
KNOLL, PEAK DISTRICT<br />
NATIONAL PARK;<br />
ST NONS CHAPEL,<br />
PEMBROKESHIRE COAST.<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM<br />
LEFT: SIMONSIDE HILLS,<br />
NORTHUMBERLAND<br />
NATIONAL PARK;<br />
BUNGAY, BROADS<br />
NATIONAL PARK;<br />
BUTTERMERE, THE<br />
LAKE DISTRICT; BLUE<br />
LAGOON ABEREIDDY,<br />
PEMBROKESHIRE COAST.<br />
POCKET MAPS FOR EVERY UK NATIONAL PARK<br />
—<br />
New <strong>2022</strong> Pocket Maps for the Brecon Beacons, Exmoor, Lake District,<br />
Loch Lomond & The Trossachs, New Forest and Northumberland have been<br />
added to the current range; the South Downs, Peak District, Snowdonia,<br />
North York Moors, Yorkshire Dales, Broads, Pembrokeshire Coast, Cairngorms<br />
and Dartmoor, meaning there is now a map for every UK National Park<br />
Favourite Walks guides are available for the South Downs, Yorkshire<br />
Dales, Snowdonia - with new <strong>2022</strong> guides covering Broads, Lake District,<br />
Northumberland, Peak District and Pembrokeshire Coast<br />
UK National Parks Pocket Maps, £3.99 and National Park Ranger<br />
Favourite Walks, £6.99 are published by Collins<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 71
STOCKS HOTEL IS A BEAUTIFUL,<br />
23 BEDROOM, COUNTRY HOUSE<br />
HOTEL LOCATED AT THE HEART<br />
OF SARK
48 HOURS IN SARK<br />
STOCKS<br />
ISLAND HOTEL<br />
Take a step back in time to this magical island<br />
in the south-western English Channel off the<br />
coast of Normandy. Enjoy peace and tranquillity<br />
exploring the picturesque coastal paths, magnificent<br />
gardens and idyllic hidden bays.<br />
Text by Jessica Way<br />
There are many reasons to be smitten with Sark. As the smallest<br />
of the four main Channel Islands (with around 500 'Sercquaise'<br />
living on the island), there are no cars and no street lights – just<br />
unpolluted, unspoilt charming landscape, and many hidden<br />
gems waiting to be discovered. The locals are wonderful, friendly<br />
and quirky – we learned Sark even has its own language, "Sercquiais"<br />
with around 15 people still speaking it today.<br />
Don’t however be fooled by its beauty, Sark is an island you don't mess with.<br />
In August 1990, André Gardes, an unemployed nuclear physicist from<br />
France, attempted an audacious one-man invasion. After arriving on Sark,<br />
he put up posters declaring his intentions to take control the following day at<br />
noon. However, whilst changing the magazine of his automatic rifle the next<br />
morning, the island’s only volunteer police constable arrested him and the<br />
invasion came to an early and unsuccessful end. <br />
Images are by local Sark photographer<br />
Ben Fiore and Jessica's own<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 73
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: SARK HARBOUR; SARK'S STARRY SKIES;<br />
STOCKS POOLSIDE LAWNS, HOME TO WILLOW SCULPTURE OF<br />
RONALDO THE CLYDESDALE HORSE; STOCKS SWIMMING POOL<br />
SURROUNDED BY ACRES OF MATURE WOODLAND AND HOME<br />
TO THE OLDEST MULBERRY TREE IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS;<br />
STOCKS HOTEL FARMHOUSE; LA COUPEE.<br />
be granted Dark Sky status. Perfect for the band of local<br />
enthusiastic stargazers who run Sark’s astronomical<br />
society, and who today share the wonders of Sark's<br />
magical night-time display with their island visitors.<br />
As a place with no motor vehicles (apart from farm<br />
tractors), journeys are either made by horse and cart, or<br />
by walking and cycling along the tracks and pathways.<br />
The islands of Sark and Little Sark are connected by<br />
a narrow isthmus, La Coupée. For many years it was<br />
believed to be haunted, and residents thought that their<br />
donkeys refused to cross the rocky ridge because they were<br />
frightened by the presence of a ghostly dog named Tchico<br />
- not because of the steep 260ft drops on either side!<br />
We stayed at Stocks Hotel, the finest luxury hotel on<br />
Sark, located at the heart of the Island. Home to the<br />
Armorgie family for 30 years, now owned by the Woolford<br />
and Magell families. Originally an early-Georgian<br />
The Clameur de haro is a traditional custom historically<br />
used on Sark. If a Sarkee believes their rights are being<br />
infringed, (to stop a neighbour from building a fence,<br />
for example) they can still issue an injunction by reciting<br />
the Lord’s Prayer and then crying “Haro, Haro, Haro! To<br />
my aid, my Prince! I am being wronged!” in French, and<br />
the disputed action must be stopped until the matter is<br />
resolved in court.<br />
This was used as recently as 2021 in a boundary dispute<br />
affecting access to a property. Famous for having been<br />
ruled since the 16th century, in a unique, pseudo-feudal<br />
manner by a ‘Seigneur’, the constitution was modernised,<br />
only in 2008, to allow for a democratically elected council<br />
style assembly.<br />
The locals are passionately proud of their island and<br />
quite rightly so. The lack of roads, houses and street lights<br />
enabled Sark to become the first island in the world to<br />
74 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
“<br />
The lack of roads, houses and<br />
street lights enabled Sark to<br />
become the first island in the world<br />
to be granted ‘Dark Sky’ status.<br />
”<br />
granite farmhouse, becoming a hotel in 1895, sitting in a<br />
sheltered, south-facing valley and surrounded by acres of<br />
grounds, some tended as immaculate gardens and others<br />
given to woodland and meadow. Perfectly presented,<br />
its 23 newly-renovated bedrooms and suites provide<br />
spacious, stylish and comfortable accommodation.<br />
The suntrap terraces, housing a heated, outdoor<br />
swimming pool, are just right for afternoon tea or a<br />
glass of the hotel’s delicious homemade wine, and the<br />
restaurant’s reputation for the quality of its dishes, using,<br />
predominantly, locally sourced ingredients, is absolutely<br />
right – the food is delicious. The gardens feature a<br />
traditional old granite cider press, one of a number still<br />
found in Sark, and adjacent to the swimming pool is<br />
allegedly the oldest mulberry tree in the Channel Islands.<br />
DAY ONE<br />
Life on Sark needs to be experienced to be truly<br />
appreciated. Following a scrumptious farmhouse breakfast<br />
at Stocks Hotel we were determined to see as much of the<br />
Island as possible. Our adventure began with some rather<br />
daring coasteering, scrambling along the picturesque<br />
coastline of Havre Gosselin and Visitor Moorings.<br />
We met James, our guide from Adventure Sark at<br />
their base opposite the Island Hall just a short cycle ride<br />
from Stocks Hotel. Wet suits on, we walked and chatted,<br />
passing the Methodist Chapel, Beauregard Duck Pond<br />
and Pilcher Monument before descending the cliffs to<br />
reach the shoreline.<br />
There was quite a swell in the water, blue skies, crisp air<br />
and a ray of warm morning sunshine.<br />
The rugged natural scenery is just beautiful, and<br />
James assured us the whirlpool waves were perfect for<br />
coasteering as they would soften our landing.<br />
We scrambled around the jagged cliffs, passing<br />
glistening rock pools and exploring inside sea caves. The<br />
water was crystal clear and there was nobody in sight –<br />
it was a chance to really let go and feel at one with the<br />
elements. Living in the moment we gained in confidence<br />
as we took on the higher adrenaline-fuelled jumps. <br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 75
“<br />
The rugged natural scenery is just<br />
beautiful, and James assured us the<br />
whirlpool waves were perfect for<br />
coasteering as they would soften<br />
our landing.<br />
”<br />
We stopped to admire the mock-Gothic castle built<br />
upon Brecqhou, a small island opposite Sark’s west<br />
coast with just the flowing water of Gouliot Passage and<br />
one tiny islet between. Owned by the Barclay brothers,<br />
identical-twin billionaires from England (sadly David,<br />
the elder by ten minutes, passed away in 2021), the<br />
private and remote island is complete with its own private<br />
harbour and helipad.<br />
Grandly situated in the middle is their mysterious<br />
100-foot-high granite walled castle, with no less than 22<br />
cannons. James tells us of the Barclays’ motto, Aut agere<br />
aut mori meaning either do or die, famously inscribed in<br />
the stonework over the entrance. Sark claims Brecqhou<br />
as its own which is strongly refuted by the Barclay family,<br />
who consider Brecqhou as their private property. They<br />
drive cars and land helicopters on Brecqhou, both of<br />
which are prohibited under the Sark law and so this has<br />
caused upset with some of the locals.<br />
We admired the views over Jethou and Herm, as well<br />
as the larger island of Guernsey in the distance before<br />
returning back onto the headland which is a blanket of<br />
bluebells and primroses – a popular picnic spot and place<br />
to sit and watch the sunset.<br />
Next, we head back to the hotel in time to meet Helen<br />
and Alex Magell. Helen’s parents, Jan and Rob Woolford<br />
bought the hotel in 2009 before refurbishing and<br />
reopening it as Stocks.<br />
Helen and Alex live in a beautiful property adjacent to<br />
Stocks Hotel, with access from the hotel gardens, which<br />
they run as a B&B – Le Grand Dixcart. One of the original<br />
Sark farmhouses it includes a very pretty stone cottage<br />
with roses around the windows – sleeps six and has an<br />
indoor pool and guest lounge, with bedrooms named<br />
after Helen and Alex’s much-loved horses, Marmite,<br />
Bagheera, Poddy, Molly, Minstrel, Beau, Ron and Willow.<br />
Willow was ready to take us on a horse and carriage<br />
ride with Helen at the helm. As we rode off Helen told us<br />
how her grandparents had moved to Sark in 1972 and<br />
how she would spend her summer holidays in Sark driving<br />
horses and carriages. Her husband, Alex, originally hails<br />
from Lancashire, and met and fell in love with Helen while<br />
they both studied farming at Agricultural College in the<br />
UK after which Helen introduced Alex to the delights<br />
of Sark. Alex subsequently qualified as a Chartered<br />
Accountant and Helen as a Teacher and they were thrilled<br />
when they had the chance to move to Sark together with<br />
their expanding family in 1999.<br />
Helen and Alex share their passion for giving people a<br />
true Sark welcome and helping them enjoy the beauty of<br />
the island. Helen and Willow took us to see Sark's most<br />
northerly point, stopping at L’Éperquerie Common.<br />
We disembarked and explored the beautifully rugged<br />
headland, discovering the Buddhist Rock Carving before<br />
76 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
enjoying a picnic with views out to Bec du Nez. Known by<br />
the locals as the Buddhist Carving or Monk's Stone, the<br />
stunning granite rock was carved out for the Millennium<br />
by a Tibetan Buddhist monk, who came over in 1999,<br />
and went all over the island with a friend to find the best<br />
spot to make his carving. The sacred Buddhist mantra is<br />
translated into English, Behold – The jewel in the lotus.<br />
On the ride back to the hotel Willow and Helen took us<br />
through the centre of Sark village as Alex chatted away<br />
pointing out interesting places including Sark’s Prison,<br />
which is (probably) the smallest prison still in use in the<br />
world. We also rode slowly past Le Moulin, Sark’s threestorey<br />
windmill. Used as an observation tower during the<br />
German occupation, it is situated on the highest point on<br />
Sark (114 metres or 374 feet above sea level).<br />
We later wandered through the village ourselves,<br />
discovering yet more points of interest including the post<br />
office full of souvenirs, Sark's only postbox (which in 2012<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: JESSICA AND FAMILY COASTEERING<br />
WITH ADVENTURE SARK; LA SEIGNEURIE GARDENS; LE<br />
MOULIN SARK’S THREE-STOREY WINDMILL; JESSICA, HELEN<br />
AND HORSE WILLOW.<br />
was painted gold to celebrate Carl Hester's role in Great<br />
Britain's dressage team's gold medal), the village stores,<br />
fashion boutiques, a stylish gift boutique, wine shop,<br />
museum, bank and several pubs and cafés.<br />
At only three miles long and a mile and a half wide<br />
it doesn’t take long on a bike ride to stumble across yet<br />
another of the Island's highlights, La Seigneurie Gardens,<br />
the traditional residence of the Seigneur of Sark. It is<br />
easy to lose yourself in the maze and wander among the<br />
rose beds, flowers and plants sheltered by granite walls<br />
– many of which would only survive under glass in other<br />
parts of the <strong>British</strong> Isles. In the summer months, roses by<br />
the leading grower David Austin are beautifully vibrant<br />
and don’t miss the newly-planted vine house, or the<br />
Chapel which tells the history of Sark’s Seigneurs and the<br />
Seigneurie itself. Refuelling is made easy at the gorgeously<br />
renovated 16th-century carriage house terrace café and<br />
restaurant, Hathaway's. <br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 77
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: JESSICA AT SARK'S WINDOW IN THE<br />
ROCK; LITTLE SARK'S VENUS POOL; CARAGH CHOCOLATES;<br />
GIANT PINK CHAIR LEFT FROM THE SARK FOLK FESTIVAL;<br />
GRANDE GRÈVE BAY SARK’S LARGEST SANDY BEACH.<br />
DAY TWO<br />
We woke up early to meet Sark’s new dairy farmer, Jason,<br />
a prize-winning cattle breeder. He moved to Sark with his<br />
wife Katherine from Suffolk where they have a farm and<br />
cheese-making business. Locals and guests to the island<br />
are welcome to watch or help Jason feed his herd, and we<br />
were among the first guests to experience his brand new<br />
milking parlour. Locals can now collect fresh milk here<br />
every morning from a vending machine using re-usable<br />
glass bottles. There is even a choice of flavours to add to<br />
your milk, including chocolate, banana, raspberry and<br />
toffee, for those with a sweet tooth.<br />
Following another hearty breakfast back at the hotel<br />
we headed out towards Little Sark in search of the Venus<br />
Pool. Before walking across La Coupée (cycling is not<br />
allowed) we stopped to admire Grande Grève Bay - Sark’s<br />
largest sandy beach, surrounded by a 100-metre cliff with<br />
There was just about time before our dinner reservation<br />
for one last cycle stop and nature walk to the beautiful<br />
pebble beach of Port du Moulin Bay where just a short<br />
detour from the path above you will stumble across the<br />
unmissable and awe-inspiring Window in the Rock. Seigneur<br />
of Sark in the 1850s, Rev Collings blasted the Window in the<br />
Rock into the cliffs above Port Du Moulin in order to frame<br />
the view of Les Autelets – and what a fabulous job, it is an<br />
absolutely stunning and picturesque spot.<br />
A five-minute cycle ride from the Window in the Rock<br />
is the new Captain’s Bar and Bon Marin Café. These are<br />
located inside the Island Hall which is also the Community<br />
Centre and Sark School (where there are around 30<br />
students in total across all year groups). The evening we<br />
visited there was live music and it was burger night, with<br />
beef, chicken, fish, spicy bean and pulled pork on the<br />
menu. Many of the locals had told us the chicken burgers<br />
were unmissable so it was an easy choice all round – and<br />
they didn’t disappoint.<br />
78 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
“<br />
The natural rock pool is filled with<br />
shimmering deep turquoise water<br />
inviting you in.<br />
”<br />
a steep path of steps (built by volunteers) to lead you<br />
down. Sark’s natural rugged beauty intensifies as you<br />
reach its most southern peninsula - Little Sark. Back<br />
on our bikes, we cycled the floral paths, passing pretty<br />
cottages, an ivy-covered windmill and lots of sheep.<br />
There is a giant pink chair left following the Sark Folk<br />
Festival. It makes a great resting place to look out over<br />
the magnificent southern views towards the sea.<br />
It was also a good sign we were on the right path<br />
to the Venus Pool. As we got closer to the coastline<br />
there were piles of rocks placed by locals that helped<br />
us to find the right path down the cliff. I recommend<br />
good footwear as it is quite a clamber down. Once at<br />
sea-level head left and you will know when you have<br />
found it. The natural rock pool is filled with shimmering<br />
deep turquoise water inviting you in. The unpolluted<br />
freshness of the coastal air makes the cold water<br />
adventure even more enjoyable. I stayed in the water<br />
for around 15 minutes, floating and dipping under a<br />
few times. It was an incredibly tranquil experience (the<br />
best time to visit is two hours on either side of low tide).<br />
Our next stop on the Sark side of La Coupée was<br />
to Caragh Chocolates Café for some of their utterly<br />
delicious hand made chocolate, using the same fresh,<br />
creamy milk we sampled that morning at the new dairy<br />
farm. There is no shortage of chocolate inspiration<br />
with every flavour you can imagine including Sark<br />
cream and champagne, vanilla and tiramisu. We<br />
ordered hot chocolate and hearing about our dip in<br />
the Venus Pool, owner Caragh suggested I might like to<br />
add a shot of rum to mine. Caragh’s also serve healthy<br />
wraps and salads, ice creams, cake, soft drinks, beers<br />
ciders and prosecco. There’s a beautiful garden, a<br />
giant red tractor, and even an outdoor swimming pool.<br />
Caragh also offers masterclasses where you can learn<br />
how to make your own bars and hand-rolled truffles.<br />
From Caragh Chocolates we referred to our map<br />
and decided to make our way through Dixcart Valley<br />
towards Sark Henge. We stopped at Dixcart Bay,<br />
another of Sark’s sand and pebble beaches, and <br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 79
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THE<br />
ANTIQUES<br />
DEALERS<br />
FAIR<br />
LIMITED<br />
supported by
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SARK TO HELIER DE CARTERET, SEIGNEUR OF ST OUEN.<br />
enjoyed exploring inside the giant natural arch rock formation<br />
which framed the sea, reminding us of a Lord of the Rings film<br />
set. We got back on the path, found ourselves a little lost in<br />
Hog’s Back Headland before eventually finding the right path<br />
up high above Derrible Bay where the sun was beginning to set.<br />
Sark Henge with its coastal views out to sea looked wonderful,<br />
golden hour set in and we just sat and marvelled at the views.<br />
We enjoyed a delicious dinner back at the hotel. Feeling<br />
sad it was our last night at Stocks Hotel we stood in awe<br />
once more at the glistening bright stars feeling grateful for<br />
the magic we had found on this beautiful and charming<br />
little island. Sark is all about the simple life and enjoying<br />
nature. With so much fresh air and exercise during the day,<br />
and so little digital stimulation I have never slept so well. It is<br />
no surprise that Sark has been the inspiration of artists and<br />
writers for centuries. It is the perfect destination for a family<br />
adventure, an uplifting health break or a romantic break<br />
for two. No matter which type of holiday you choose, to<br />
experience Sark is worth its entire island weight in gold.<br />
Prices start from £94.50 per person per night, bed and<br />
breakfast during the spring and autumn. Pre-book the new<br />
Stocks Dining Package option for 10% discount off all lunches,<br />
dinners and drinks at Stocks Hotel. Furthermore, stay for 4<br />
nights or longer and Stocks Hotel will refund your Guernsey-<br />
Sark return ferry fare with the Isle of Sark Shipping Company.<br />
stockshotel.com<br />
TOP TIPS FOR VISITING SARK<br />
—<br />
Getting to Sark is part of the adventure<br />
Flying with Aurigny from Southampton to<br />
Guernsey takes just 45-minutes, jump in a<br />
taxi taking 15-minutes from the airport to<br />
St Peter Port followed by a 45-minute boat<br />
ride over to Sark (tickets are available from<br />
the Isle of Sark Shipping Company). Plus,<br />
pop into Sark Visitor Centre for information<br />
about local events, maps, walks and leaflets.<br />
Take some time to explore Guernsey<br />
between your transfers<br />
We left our luggage in the hold at St Peter<br />
Port and walked 10 minutes to Castle Cornet<br />
to watch the noonday gun. For lunch, stop<br />
in at Crêpe Maison for Crêpes Suzette and<br />
Rocquette Cider.<br />
Be sure to have some money for the<br />
passenger tractor bus. On arrival at Sark<br />
buses takes passengers and their luggage<br />
up the rather steep hill. It is only a couple of<br />
quid but they will only accept cash.<br />
Stay at Stocks Hotel<br />
Everything is looked after for you as a guest<br />
of Stocks. On arrival your luggage is whisked<br />
away and transported to your hotel for you,<br />
enabling you to start your holiday from the<br />
moment you arrive on the island.<br />
Bike hire is essential for adventurers<br />
We collected ours from A to B Cycles in<br />
Mermaid Lane just a short walk from where<br />
the tractor bus drops you on the Avenue at<br />
the centre of the Island.<br />
Remember to take head torches<br />
With no street lights and many dangerous<br />
cliffs you will be grateful for them when you<br />
are still exploring in the evening under the<br />
bright stars.<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 81
NOTTINGHAM<br />
Nottingham is a city long associated with Robin Hood – but Britain’s<br />
largest small city is packed with much more than just legends and it’s<br />
waiting to welcome you back safely.<br />
The city of Nottingham has had a longstanding<br />
association with Britain’s most famous outlaw,<br />
Robin Hood. The legend tells of a man who<br />
robbed from the rich and gave to the poor, a<br />
real rebel hero throughout the ages. It’s this exciting spirit<br />
that lives on in Nottingham; there’s so much packed into<br />
this small city that it’s bursting with culture, history and<br />
surprises around every corner.<br />
Nottingham is one of the UK’s most historical cities,<br />
where you can experience 1,000 years of history in<br />
ancient castles, stop for a pint or two at some of the<br />
country’s oldest inns and pubs, as well as exploring the<br />
hidden caves that twist and turn beneath the city streets.<br />
Being a small city, Nottingham is also easy to explore<br />
on foot and benefits from an award-winning tram<br />
system. However, don’t let its small size deceive you,<br />
Nottingham is a city with a truly vibrant music and arts<br />
scene, with internationally-acclaimed galleries and<br />
82 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
PROMOTION<br />
IMAGES © CLARE JONES / LIYUAN LIU / VISIT NOTTINGHAMSHIRE<br />
“... don’t let its small size deceive<br />
you, Nottingham is a city with a<br />
truly vibrant music and arts scene.<br />
”<br />
music venues standing testament to this. The Hockley area<br />
of the city, just off the historic Lace Market (once the lace<br />
making capital of the world), is home to some incredible<br />
independent venues, with great places to eat and explore if<br />
you fancy something with a more alternative feel.<br />
Businesses in retail and hospitality have also worked<br />
tirelessly to ensure Nottingham has been able to welcome<br />
visitors back safely. From working with Visit England’s<br />
We’re Good to Go! scheme, to supporting one-way systems<br />
throughout the city centre, Nottingham’s tourism, hospitality<br />
and retail offering has worked hard to ensure Nottingham<br />
remains a safe destination to visit.<br />
Nottingham is also blessed with stunning architecture,<br />
the home of Watson Fothergill, famed for his use of<br />
contrasting red and blue bricks as well as elaborate turrets<br />
on buildings. Much of Nottingham’s grand and aweinspiring<br />
Lace Market was designed in this style and is a<br />
must visit for those interested in city architecture.<br />
Those wishing to visit Nottingham will have no trouble<br />
finding somewhere to stay, with charming boutique hotels<br />
right throughout the city, there’s something to suit all tastes.<br />
Whether you’re looking for high end hotels or something a<br />
little more private, visitors are spoiled for choice.<br />
Nottingham is also famous for a strong culinary scene.<br />
With cuisines from all four corners of the globe and awardwinning<br />
restaurants in no short supply, you can enjoy an<br />
epicurean adventure right in the heart of England.<br />
There’s also something for lovers of sport. The city has a<br />
fine sporting pedigree, with two of England’s oldest football<br />
clubs and one of the world’s most iconic cricket grounds all<br />
within a short walk of one another. Visitors are able to soak<br />
up some of the best sporting atmospheres found anywhere<br />
in the UK. ◆<br />
Nottingham is a city that’s truly buzzing with life,<br />
with new experiences waiting around every corner – and<br />
it’s waiting to be discovered. To plan your next trip to<br />
Nottingham: visit-nottinghamshire.co.uk<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 83
WELCOME BACK<br />
TO NOTTINGHAM!<br />
Visit Nottingham and take<br />
a journey to the heart of England<br />
Walk in the footsteps of the famous legend Robin Hood in a city that’s<br />
full of surprises. The UK’s biggest small city that’s easy to explore on<br />
foot, stumble across hidden bars and restaurants. Visit Nottingham’s<br />
independent shops and soak in the famous Watson Fothergill<br />
architecture. Stop for a drink at England’s oldest inn and experience<br />
a thousand years of history at Nottingham Castle, fresh from a £30<br />
million makeover. A city that’s buzzing with life, with new experiences<br />
around every corner – waiting to be discovered.<br />
PLAN YOUR NEXT STAY AT VISIT-NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.CO.UK<br />
Funded by the European Regional Development Fund and HM Government<br />
as part of the Welcome Back Fund:<br />
84 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com<br />
IMAGE: TRACEY WHITEFOOT AND NOTTINGHAM CASTLE TRUST<br />
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INTERVIEW WITH JOHN HITCHCOX<br />
THE LAKES<br />
BY YOO<br />
Getting away from it all is paramount to our wellbeing.<br />
Showing this to be true, is this exclusive Cotswolds<br />
retreat that is currently a sanctuary to over one hundred<br />
families. John Hitchcox tells us about his vision for this<br />
very special countryside estate and the stylish new<br />
lakeside cabins and apartments.<br />
Text by Jessica Way<br />
86 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
CLOCKWISE<br />
FROM LEFT:<br />
NEW LAKESIDE<br />
CABINS; INFINITY<br />
POOL AT THE<br />
NEW LAKESIDE<br />
APARTMENTS;<br />
JESSICA CHATS<br />
TO CEO JOHN<br />
HITCHCOX.<br />
One more visit to The Lakes<br />
by Yoo is never enough.<br />
This private-gated 900-<br />
acre countryside retreat is<br />
designed to feel so much<br />
like home, you never want to leave – and<br />
when you do, you are left eager to return.<br />
It was a concept developed way ahead<br />
of its time, dreamt up by successful<br />
property entrepreneur John Hitchcox,<br />
while living in London and imagining a<br />
better upbringing for his kids, “I was a<br />
total urbanite, but I wanted the kids to be<br />
brought up in the country – somewhere<br />
they could play outside, explore woodland,<br />
go sailing and more.”<br />
This heavenly oasis is designed as a<br />
bolthole to come back to, with many<br />
residents owning properties as lifestyle<br />
investments. There’s a warm village<br />
community where property owners and<br />
rental guests alike are made to feel<br />
extremely welcome in a reassuring and<br />
peaceful setting for contemporary modern<br />
living. Just as John had hoped, it is “a place<br />
parents can come with their children, at<br />
weekends and during school holidays,<br />
picking up as much country living as they<br />
can, while still enjoying the benefits of a<br />
life in London too”. During the late 1990’s<br />
John co-founded Yoo (the property design<br />
company behind The Lakes by Yoo) with<br />
Philippe Starck, known by many as the<br />
world’s most talented designer.<br />
“Over the years I have worked with<br />
many world class designers, mostly notably<br />
my business partner Philippe. Above all,<br />
we are always looking to do something<br />
that is different to everyone else.” This was<br />
back in 1999 – and what a vicennium it<br />
has been, the property dream team have<br />
stopped at nothing, pulling out all the<br />
stops, and achieving so much.<br />
Yet, here we are in <strong>2022</strong>, more than<br />
twenty years later, and another exciting<br />
chapter to the story is just beginning to<br />
unfold – with the Lakes by Yoo first-ever<br />
lakeside cabins and apartments.<br />
Interior design masterpieces, 4-6<br />
bedroom homes, are dotted about the<br />
glorious parkland lakes, woods and<br />
meadows. (Prices for these homes range<br />
between £2m and £7m, with many<br />
available for rental costing between<br />
£12,000 and £40,000 per week). The<br />
lakeside cabins and apartments, however,<br />
are first-time smaller properties have been<br />
designed on the estate and they are <br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 87
available to rent from £1,000 per<br />
night – or to buy from £1.1 million.<br />
Available in a range of layouts and<br />
styles, each property at the Lakes is<br />
bespoke. “We make sure each property<br />
blends in with the scenery, so it feels<br />
harmonious,” John explains. “And we<br />
insist on using entirely local materials –<br />
larch from local farms, Cotswold stone,<br />
for instance.”<br />
Staying overnight with my family<br />
in the first finished cabin was<br />
an absolute delight. Inside is as<br />
breathtakingly beautiful as the lakes<br />
on the outside, decorated using a rich<br />
and earthy colour palette of burnt<br />
reds, chocolates and ochres.<br />
There are deep velvet armchairs,<br />
eclectic artwork and vintage<br />
ornaments, double-height open plan<br />
living with a glazed frontage that<br />
floods the room with natural light, and<br />
a spacious outdoor entertaining deck.<br />
We were especially impressed<br />
by the bespoke and convenient<br />
folding kitchenette – which can be<br />
concealed when not in use. There’s<br />
a wood burner that sits in front of a<br />
beautiful stone wall extending into<br />
the double height living area, and<br />
lots of local materials including tonal<br />
timbers and statement pendant<br />
lighting, handwoven in willow by<br />
local craftsmen. Even the beds<br />
and mattresses are handmade in<br />
Devon using natural fibres from a<br />
sustainable resource.<br />
And it is not just the<br />
accommodation offering that has<br />
benefited from a huge investment.<br />
Over the past decade the team<br />
have taken what was previously a<br />
barren 850-acre gravel pit expanse<br />
to a beautiful, secluded setting,<br />
complete with a wealth of natural<br />
wildlife and stunning scenery. At<br />
the heart of John Hitchcox’s vision is<br />
the creation of a conservation park<br />
to reinvest in the countryside which<br />
included the planting of 500,000<br />
new trees, multiple new lakes, and<br />
woodland habitats. There is also<br />
a farm with livestock, chickens<br />
and market garden, as well as<br />
beehives and a whole range of other<br />
sustainable and ecological initiatives.<br />
“Sustainability is at the heart of<br />
everything we do across the Yoo<br />
Group, which is why we even have the<br />
company Yoo Energy, dedicated to<br />
alternative energy such as wind farms<br />
and other sources.”<br />
It is no surprise that the exclusive<br />
resort is a firm-favourite with many<br />
celebrity and VIP guests, with Simon<br />
le Bon, Kate Moss and Jade Jagger<br />
among John’s closest friends. “You<br />
could call it entirely selfish, but I tend<br />
to build things that I love. With regard<br />
to the Lakes, my vision was to create<br />
a beautiful estate for my children.<br />
Ironically, by the time it was ready,<br />
my eldest had grown up and fled the<br />
nest, but seeing other families and<br />
children enjoying the estate still made<br />
me incredibly happy”.<br />
Within easy walking distance of<br />
the new cabins and apartments is<br />
the Orchard Spa, a glorious 17 metre<br />
heated pool, sauna, steamroom and<br />
jacuzzi and therapists for indulgent<br />
treatments. There is also the on-site<br />
tepee restaurant, Lynwood Café, a<br />
much-loved part of the estate serving<br />
a range of food and drink, from<br />
cappuccinos to café eats. Most weeks<br />
they have special guest food and<br />
drink visits. Throughout the summer<br />
they have pit and fire night serving<br />
flamed grills to residents three times<br />
a week. Plans are also underway<br />
to create a larger restaurant and<br />
clubhouse to suit the increasing needs<br />
of residents and guests.<br />
All the produce from the farm as<br />
well as eggs and honey are offered<br />
on a complimentary basis to all<br />
residents. There are numerous on-site<br />
activities including paddle boarding,<br />
zip wiring, yoga, fishing, canoeing,<br />
kayaking and bike hire.<br />
The resort even boasts its own<br />
resident Bear Grylls, Angus, who<br />
looks after the maintenance of the<br />
lakes while keeping the youngest<br />
guests (and the young at heart)<br />
enthused, entertained and safe<br />
during activities. We first met Angus<br />
during our experience on the Zip<br />
Wire across Warrens Cross Lake.<br />
His assurance was most welcomed,<br />
especially during the ‘leap of faith’<br />
descent from the top ledge of the<br />
climbing wall.<br />
There’s lots to keep little Lakes’<br />
explorers entertained too – in<br />
addition to a Kids Club with Sharky<br />
and George, they have a packed<br />
schedule of fun including workshops<br />
in pizza making, martial arts, fairy<br />
princess crown making, and den<br />
building. Tennis coaching classes,<br />
rugby training and football training<br />
are also available to book.<br />
“Everyone feels like they’re part<br />
of things here. We wanted to build<br />
a community and have residents<br />
be part of those things they care<br />
about. And that’s what we’ve got<br />
here – a group of like-minded people,<br />
most are from London, but with an<br />
international flair. Now our residents<br />
88 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
THE LAKES BY<br />
YOO, THE MOST<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
LAKESIDE ESTATE<br />
IN ENGLAND.<br />
“<br />
Typically, a day at The Lakes involves family. We are up bright and early for a<br />
quick cappuccino, then out on the canoes, lunch on the BBQ... biking or sailing for<br />
the afternoon and either an outdoor movie or a walk by the river in the evening.<br />
”<br />
all know each other, and they<br />
appreciate that – they know what it’s<br />
like to be in a new country and start<br />
again with the social life.”<br />
During our stay, the Lakes Art Park<br />
had just launched at the estate, housing<br />
the artworks Your Dog and GONE by<br />
Yoshitomo Nara and KAWS. The idea<br />
behind the Lakes Art Park is for the<br />
Lakes to showcase work by some of<br />
the world’s finest artists and sculptors<br />
and provide a cultural extension for<br />
residents and visitors. “It has long been<br />
our vision to champion immersive and<br />
enriching new experiences. We are<br />
thrilled to be partnering with artistic<br />
talent from around the world to<br />
enhance the cultural and educational<br />
experience for families and young<br />
people on the estate.”<br />
“For me it’s all about the creative<br />
use of space, whether that be a<br />
vertical village in Panama, this private<br />
estate in the Cotswolds or even<br />
our redevelopment of Olympia in<br />
London. It’s all about bringing new<br />
ideas and innovation to the concept”.<br />
Just another one of John’s impressive<br />
projects of the moment…<br />
“I am so excited about Olympia.<br />
We really are re-imagining and<br />
restoring one of Britain’s greatest<br />
landmarks for the 21st century.<br />
Construction is well under way, and<br />
we cannot wait to introduce it to the<br />
public in a couple of years.”<br />
I asked John how he likes to spend<br />
his time at the Lakes. “Typically, a day<br />
at The Lakes involves family. We are up<br />
bright and early for a quick cappuccino,<br />
then out on the canoes, lunch on the<br />
BBQ. It’s then often a choice between<br />
biking or sailing for the afternoon and<br />
either an outdoor movie or a walk by<br />
the river in the evening”. We agreed,<br />
one silver lining from Covid-19 has been<br />
the awakening to our family time and<br />
health with nothing more important<br />
than our experiences and memories.<br />
I don’t think John could have planned<br />
better timing for the lakeside cabins and<br />
apartments to launch.<br />
I was also curious to find some<br />
insider knowledge, asking John where<br />
on the estate he likes to be the most –<br />
and if he has any favourite hideouts.<br />
“We are lucky to have 950 acres and<br />
many of us have our own favourite<br />
secret places. I shouldn’t tell you<br />
mine, but we sometimes take an old<br />
Land Rover down to the far end of the<br />
river for a picnic. It always amazes<br />
me that however many families are<br />
visiting the estate, it never feels busy”.<br />
There’s no question that it is John’s<br />
children who are to thank for his<br />
overall motivation.<br />
As we left waving goodbye, John<br />
and his four-year old son Marley rode<br />
past us on their bikes smiling back.<br />
John’s idea for creating memories with<br />
a taste of the countryside for those<br />
desperate to escape the everyday of<br />
London has not only been realised,<br />
John himself is now benefiting from<br />
his own vision and dream.<br />
thelakesbyyoo.com<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 89
10 OF THE BEST<br />
AFTERNOON<br />
TEAS<br />
There is nothing quite like sitting down for<br />
afternoon tea, the warming tea blends, sweet<br />
and savoury treats. In a year that celebrates Her<br />
Majesty becoming the first <strong>British</strong> Monarch to<br />
reach the Platinum Jubilee milestone of 70 years<br />
of service, there is even more reason to indulge<br />
in a spot of tea or raise your champagne glass.<br />
With celebrations happening up and down the<br />
country, why not commemorate the jubilee in<br />
some of these amazing locations? Whatever your<br />
mood, we bring you some of the most beautiful<br />
places to savour every sip and scone…<br />
Text by Tallulah Rushaya<br />
90 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
1<br />
BEST FOR FEELING AT HOME<br />
Dubbed ‘Mayfair’s best sitting room’ The<br />
Promenade, at The Dorchester, on Park<br />
Lane, will make you feel like a star, with the<br />
atmosphere created by the friendly and<br />
attentive Dorchester staff to match. With grand<br />
Corinthian marble columns, gold adorning<br />
both sides and quilted chesterfield sofas to<br />
recline into, it is the perfect place to allow the<br />
hours pass by. Guests will be treated to the<br />
sight of masterful bouquets created by florist<br />
Philip Hammond, featuring The Dorchester<br />
Rose from Meijer Roses of Holland, that arrived<br />
in 2020, and was seven years in the making.<br />
There is a resident pianist playing from an<br />
extremely broad repertoire, including film<br />
classics, and theatre, for you to sway along to.<br />
The Dorchester’s Afternoon Tea is a true blend<br />
of East meets West, you will be able to enjoy a<br />
range of savoury finger sandwiches on artisan<br />
bread, using the best of English produce, with<br />
tea fusions taking you on a sensory journey.<br />
Starts from £80 per person,<br />
dorchestercollection.com<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 91
2<br />
BEST FOR PANORAMIC<br />
VIEWS<br />
Take in the lavish surroundings of the<br />
Berkshire countryside, overlooking<br />
the landscape and the beautiful<br />
gardens of Cliveden. Served in The<br />
Cliveden Dining Room Monday to<br />
Saturday and in the distinguished<br />
décor of The Great Hall on Sundays,<br />
wherever you are, you will be<br />
surrounded by period beauty. Guests<br />
can feel like royalty with the Platinum<br />
Jubilee Afternoon Tea, curated by<br />
Executive Chef, Chris Hannon,<br />
that consists of favourite dishes<br />
from England, Scotland, Wales<br />
and Ireland. A perfectly prepared<br />
selection of finger sandwiches,<br />
freshly baked scones with homemade<br />
jam and clotted cream, miniature<br />
delectable bite-size cakes, and<br />
delicacies including Queen Elizabeth’s<br />
favourite, chocolate biscuit cake. For<br />
something slightly more extravagant,<br />
the Champagne Platinum Jubilee<br />
Afternoon Tea includes a glass of<br />
Laurent-Perrier with your classic<br />
afternoon tea experience.<br />
Starts from £45 per person,<br />
clivedenhouse.co.uk<br />
3<br />
BEST FOR BEING SPOILT<br />
FOR CHOICE<br />
Famed for their delectable Fat<br />
Rascals, that brings visitors from<br />
both near and far, Bettys will leave<br />
you spoilt for choice. With the option<br />
of five heavenly tea rooms across<br />
God’s own county, Yorkshire, the two<br />
biggest tea rooms being in Harrogate<br />
and York, Bettys is truly an institution.<br />
Served in the Imperial Room in Bettys<br />
Harrogate, and the Belmont Room<br />
in York, you will be transported to a<br />
bygone era, within the atmospheric<br />
art deco interior, inspired by the<br />
Queen Mary ocean liner. Available<br />
are an ever changing range of treats,<br />
for the seasons, with afternoon<br />
tea classics such as scones. Some<br />
elements are reimagined such as<br />
coronation Yorkshire chicken. There<br />
are vegetarian, vegan afternoon teas<br />
too, as well as Pink Champagne and<br />
Prosecco Afternoon Tea, if you are<br />
in a celebratory mood. We did say<br />
you would be spoilt for choice! For<br />
the Queen’s 70th Jubilee year, Bettys<br />
Bakery have crafted a wide range of<br />
Jubilee inspired treats, fit for royalty,<br />
to enjoy anywhere, including Jubilee<br />
Champagne Macaroons, Jubilee<br />
Chocolate Teapot, a new Dundee<br />
Cake presented in a keepsake tin and<br />
a Jubilee Gift Box with Corgi biscuits.<br />
Starts from £28.95 per person,<br />
bettys.co.uk<br />
92 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
4<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: BETTYS JUBILEE AFTERNOON TEA;<br />
THE ROYAL CRESCENT’S JUBILEE AFTERNOON TEA AND GARDEN<br />
PARTY; CLIVEDEN HOUSE'S CHAMPAGNE PLATINUM JUBILEE<br />
AFTERNOON TEA.<br />
BEST FOR ARCHITECTURE<br />
APPRECIATORS<br />
Situated in the heart of the Grade I<br />
Listed Royal Crescent in the historical<br />
city of Bath, The Royal Crescent<br />
Hotel and Spa is a fine example<br />
of sweeping, curved 250-year-old<br />
Georgian architecture, overlooking<br />
the perfectly manicured lawn of<br />
the Royal Victoria Park. In their<br />
award-winning restaurant, The<br />
Dower House, you can indulge in a<br />
piece of the Bridgerton experience,<br />
as the façade of the Royal Crescent<br />
served as a filming location for<br />
the Netflix show. With the finest<br />
selection of aromatic flavours from<br />
Ronnefeldt Teas, with a diverse range<br />
from Golden Assam to Rooibos to<br />
accompany your Royal Crescent<br />
Classic or Vegetarian Afternoon Tea,<br />
you can converse freely, without the<br />
worry of later being the subject of<br />
Lady Whistledown’s revelations. For<br />
the Jubilee, guests are invited to The<br />
Royal Crescent’s Jubilee Garden Party<br />
on the Thursday to commence the<br />
June Bank Holiday celebrations. Also<br />
available, the chance to dine like a<br />
Queen with their Jubilee Joy package,<br />
including a two-night stay in either<br />
a luxurious room or suite, a special<br />
Jubilee-themed cocktail, a six course<br />
tasting menu on one night of your<br />
stay and champagne afternoon tea<br />
on one afternoon during your stay.<br />
Starts from £39.50 per person.<br />
Jubilee Joy package: prices starts from<br />
£530 per room per night, in a Deluxe<br />
double room, based on a two-night<br />
package (Wednesday 1st June until<br />
Monday 6th June), royalcrescent.co.uk<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 93
5<br />
BEST FOR ART<br />
AFICIONADOS<br />
If you know your Matisse from your<br />
Picasso, or generally have a keen eye<br />
for art, look no further than Sketch.<br />
Composed of four restaurants, one<br />
with three Michelin Stars, Sketch<br />
is akin to an Alice in Wonderland of<br />
culinary adventure. The Gallery<br />
Room, where afternoon tea is hosted,<br />
is adorned with a millennial pink<br />
backdrop created by designer India<br />
Mahdavi. It has hosted work by a<br />
range of artists, including Tracey<br />
Emin and David Shrigley, and is the<br />
perfect place to sink into the comfort<br />
of the sumptuous scallop-shaped<br />
seats, while snapping photos for<br />
your Instagram. Sketch has exclusive<br />
seasonal menus for Mother’s Day<br />
from 25–28 March and Easter from<br />
15–18 April. A French spin on the<br />
<strong>British</strong> tradition, your tastebuds will<br />
be revolutionised, with potential<br />
offerings of bergamot macaroon and<br />
truffle brioche bun sandwiches.<br />
Starts from £69 per person,<br />
sketch.london<br />
6<br />
BEST FOR A FAMILY DAY OUT<br />
Although Goodwood is the location<br />
for the Festival of Speed, there will be<br />
no rush taking afternoon tea here. In<br />
fact, there is so much time, you can<br />
actually take a tour of Goodwood<br />
House and have afternoon tea.<br />
Set within a glorious 12,000-acre<br />
Sussex estate within the South Downs<br />
National Park, Goodwood is one<br />
for the countryside dwellers. After<br />
walking through the magnificent<br />
Front Hall to the Ballroom where<br />
tea is taken, surrounded by one of<br />
the finest art collections in Britain,<br />
it will be hard to leave without the<br />
tour. Goodwood’s afternoon tea<br />
uses organic estate grown and<br />
reared produce, which is available<br />
in the Farm Shop to bring a piece of<br />
Goodwood home. There is the Adult<br />
Tea, including Goodwood Ale Fruit<br />
Cake, and Passionfruit & Raspberry<br />
tarts, with generous portions,<br />
leaving nearly all with a slice to take<br />
away. The Children’s Tea can satisfy<br />
the fussiest of eaters, with lemon<br />
meringue tartlets and chocolate<br />
brownies, just to a name a few.<br />
Afternoon Tea & Tour of Goodwood<br />
House is £29 per person (adults) or<br />
£10 per person for 4-12 year olds,<br />
goodwood.com<br />
94 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
7<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: AFTERNOON TEA IN<br />
THE BALLROOM, GOODWOOD; AFTERNOON TEA<br />
IN THE DRAWING ROOM, DUKES HOTEL;<br />
AFTERNOON TEA, SKETCH.<br />
BEST FOR LUXURY<br />
A stone’s throw away from royal<br />
haunts such as St James’s Palace,<br />
and of course Buckingham Palace,<br />
Dukes offers a selection of traditional<br />
sandwiches, handmade patisseries,<br />
fruit and plain scones, plus 'cake<br />
of the day', all freshly baked by the<br />
in-house Pastry Chef. The Drawing<br />
Room sets the scene, overlooking a<br />
tranquil courtyard garden. Dukes<br />
London has partnered with The East<br />
India Company to offer a range of<br />
delicious, aromatic and refreshing<br />
fine loose-leaf teas and infusions.<br />
They also offer a special MarTEAni<br />
Afternoon Tea, to celebrate the<br />
hotel's legendary martinis at Dukes<br />
Bar where James Bond’s creator Ian<br />
Fleming, a frequent visitor, sought<br />
inspiration for the character’s<br />
favourite drink. Vegan options are<br />
offered as well as a Little Dukes and<br />
Duchesses Afternoon Tea, for the<br />
little ones in your life. A unique Jubilee<br />
Package is available, with a stay in<br />
their Junior or One Bedroom Suite.<br />
You can be treated to champagne<br />
in your suite on arrival, English<br />
Breakfast served in either their Great<br />
<strong>British</strong> Restaurant or the comfort of<br />
your suite, a Jubilee afternoon tea<br />
served in The Drawing Room and a<br />
classic Jubilee picnic to enjoy in the<br />
royal parks in addition to access to<br />
hotel’s health club and Dukes Bar.<br />
Starts from £35 per person, for the<br />
Jubilee Package a Junior Suite the daily<br />
rate is £960 and for a One Bedroom<br />
Suite, the daily rate is £1,050, packaged<br />
based on a minimum two night stay for<br />
two guests, dukeshotel.com<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 95
8<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: THE<br />
GORING DINING ROOM; SUPERBLOOM<br />
TOWER OF LONDON; AFTERNOON TEA<br />
AT THE SAVOY HOTEL.<br />
BEST FOR VINTAGE<br />
LOVERS<br />
Surrounded by the romanticism of<br />
antique shops on Kensington Church<br />
Street, evoking a Richard Curtis<br />
film ambience, is the Candella Tea<br />
Room. Its interior reflects charm,<br />
with a range of vintage tea ware,<br />
and painted panels. The Candella’s<br />
Afternoon Tea has a choice of<br />
traditional sandwich fillings, with<br />
subtle modern twists, such as freerange<br />
egg mayonnaise and chives<br />
brioche bun. With freshly made<br />
scones, you can opt for the classic<br />
plain and raisin scone or explore<br />
lemon and blueberry or chocolate<br />
orange scones. There is also a choice<br />
of a Contemporary Afternoon Tea<br />
selection. To satisfy your sweet<br />
cravings, Candella has an extensive<br />
list of popular tea blends such as<br />
Lady Grey, a black Ceylon tea with<br />
sun ripened orange peel and Thai<br />
lemongrass, and bergamot oil.<br />
From mango mousse, encased in an<br />
almond cake sponge, to pistachio<br />
opera gateau and bite sized<br />
macaroons in flavours including Earl<br />
Grey. With so much to try, why not<br />
buy a blend to take home from the<br />
tea shop?<br />
Starts from £18.95 per person,<br />
candellatearoom.com<br />
9<br />
BEST FOR ELEGANCE AND<br />
TRADITION<br />
Guests have been gracing the<br />
Thames Foyer, enjoying the<br />
world-famous afternoon tea at<br />
The Savoy, since it opened in 1889,<br />
honouring the <strong>British</strong> tradition of<br />
afternoon tea that stretches back<br />
to 1840. The Savoy is the perfect<br />
spot to be enchanted by London’s<br />
thoroughfare of the bustling Strand,<br />
balanced by the calm of the River<br />
Thames. Home to the concept of the<br />
dinner-dance, The Savoy’s afternoon<br />
tea extends itself to introduce a<br />
sociable and warm atmosphere into<br />
your experience. An enchanting<br />
glass-domed atrium, with an ornate<br />
stained-glass cupola, allows you to<br />
bask in the natural light from above,<br />
where below is the enchanting cast<br />
metal gazebo, housing a grand<br />
piano. Each menu has been highly<br />
curated for you to experience a range<br />
of flavours, with patisseries that are<br />
described as tempting works of art.<br />
Starts from £65 per person,<br />
thesavoylondon.com<br />
96 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com
10<br />
BEST FOR SUNNY DAYS<br />
Trace back history with The Goring,<br />
where Queen Elizabeth held her<br />
Coronation dinner in 1953. The<br />
Grade I listed hotel is a firm Royal<br />
favourite. Within walking distance<br />
of Buckingham Palace, to celebrate<br />
the Platinum Jubilee, there cannot<br />
be a more suitable venue to enjoy<br />
any day of the week. There is lots to<br />
look forward to, including a Platinum<br />
Jubilee Afternoon Tea, which will<br />
include sandwiches such as Clarence<br />
Court egg and cress and Smoked<br />
John Ross salmon with caper and<br />
lemon to name a few. There will also<br />
be a special recreation of The Queen’s<br />
Coronation Menu dinner, which will<br />
see dishes such as Cornet de Saumon<br />
Fumé. Other treats include a Jubilee<br />
Fizz champagne cocktail by barman<br />
extraordinaire Tiago Mira. For those<br />
more horticulturally inclined, there<br />
will be a chance to admire a garden<br />
installation of The Queen Elizabeth II<br />
Rose by the award-winning Harkness<br />
Roses, and a Royal dressing up box<br />
for the little ones who can see the<br />
return of Teddy the Shetland Pony.<br />
Starts from £60 per person,<br />
thegoringhotel.com<br />
MORE WAYS TO CELEBRATE<br />
THE QUEEN’S JUBILEE<br />
—<br />
Superbloom Tower of London<br />
In celebration of the Queen’s Platinum<br />
Jubileee between 1 June–18 September <strong>2022</strong><br />
you can slide into 20 million new blooms in<br />
the Tower of London’s moat.<br />
Buckingham Palace and Royal Mews<br />
London will be abuzz with things to do and<br />
places to see. Buckingham Palace is<br />
re-opening its State Rooms in July, while the<br />
Royal Mews, with its coaches, carriages and<br />
stables, will unlock its doors in May – plus,<br />
don't miss the Gold State Coach used by the<br />
Queen for her coronation in 1953.<br />
Four day UK bank holiday weekend<br />
The festivities and fanfare will come to a<br />
head on one weekend: 2–5 June <strong>2022</strong>, with<br />
pomp and pageantry and a Thanksgiving<br />
service at St Paul’s Cathedral.<br />
The Queen’s Birthday Parade (Trooping<br />
the Colour) Over 1,400 parading soldiers,<br />
200 horses and 400 musicians will come<br />
together in the traditional Parade to mark<br />
The Queen's official birthday, usually held<br />
on the second Saturday in June.<br />
<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 97
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