British Travel Journal | Spring2022

ContistaMedia

With the spring and summer ahead and hotels and restaurants revived, it is time to fix up those exciting travel plans we have all been dreaming of. And, if our Travel News pages are anything to go by, 2022 is set to be an incredible year. From staying in a luxurious castle estate in Northern Ireland to a wellness retreat like no other in North Devon, from the finest countryside farmhouse located in the heart of Sark to the supercool ‘active relaxation’ hotel situated on the shores of Ullswater – there’s simply no shortage of inspiration. However you choose to spend the season I hope this latest edition of British Travel Journal helps add a little sprinkle of extra magic to your upcoming travel plans, and we can all make up for lost time with our families and friends.

BRITISH TRAVEL

JOURNAL

SPRING 2022 | ISSUE 11

BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM

ULTIMATE

AWE-INSPIRING

JOURNEYS

FROM LAKES AND WATERFALLS

IN THE LAKE DISTRICT TO

STARGAZING ON A MAGICAL

DARK SKY ISLAND

WANDERLUST &

WELLGEVITY

ADD HEALTH AND WELLNESS

TO YOUR ZEST FOR TRAVEL

£6.75

+ TRAVEL NEWS | TOURING ROUTES | UNIQUE STAYS | NATIONAL PARKS


CHANNEL ISLANDS

Discover your own island adventure

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CONTRIBUTIONS

BRITISH TRAVEL

JOURNAL

BritishTravelJournal.com

Welcome

EDITOR’S LETTER


EDITORS

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding

CONTRIBUTORS

Chantal Borciani, Sophie Farrah,

Jane Knight, Caroline Mills, Karyn Noble,

Natalie Paris, Tallulah Rushaya, Alex Stewart

COVER PHOTO


View of Ullswater Lake from the Aira Force

and Gowbarrow trail, Lake District National Park

© Image Editor's own

Published by

CONTISTA MEDIA

Unit 6, Basepoint, Andersons Road,

Southampton, SO14 5FE

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contistamedia.co.uk

With the spring and summer

ahead and hotels and

restaurants revived, it is time to

fix up those exciting travel plans

we have all been dreaming of.

And, if our Travel News pages (p9) are

anything to go by, 2022 is set to be an incredible year.

From staying in a luxurious castle estate in

Northern Ireland (p66) to a wellness retreat like no other in

North Devon (p38), from the finest countryside farmhouse

located in the heart of Sark (p72) to the supercool ‘active

relaxation’ hotel situated on the shores of Ullswater (p24) –

there’s simply no shortage of inspiration.

If it is memorable experiences you are seeking then look no

further than our Unique Luxury Breaks (p48) from sea safaris

to classic cars, lake swimming and waterfalls, and trout fishing

to horse whispering.

With a strong theme of ‘active wellness’ running through this

issue you can’t beat our wonderful National Parks (p68) for a

dose of fresh air, and one of our most scenic touring routes in

Britain and Ireland (p58) for an unforgettable adventure – or

perhaps you might enjoy taking a hike across England from

coast to coast (p32).

Celebrate the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee in style with a Jubilee

Afternoon Tea (p90) or join in the fun sliding into the 20 million

new blooms in the Tower of London’s moat.

However you choose to spend the season I hope this latest

edition of British Travel Journal helps add a little sprinkle of extra

magic to your upcoming travel plans, and we can all make up

for lost time with our families and friends.

Jessica x

JESSICA WAY

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF


All rights reserved by Contista Media Ltd. Copyright is either

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original copyright holder. Reproduction in whole or part without

written permission is strictly prohibited. While every care is taken

prices and details are subject to change and Contista Media Ltd

take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by

authors are not necessarily those of the publisher.

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CONTENTS

SPRING 2022 | ISSUE 11


68

24

JOTTINGS

09

TRAVEL NEWS

From a renovated Scottish castle and

brand new countryside retreat hotel in Berkshire

to an ambitious nationwide celebration of

creativity, it’s an action-packed season.

AFTERNOON TEA AT THE LANE

22 Inspired by the decadence and splendour

of the Regency era, Tea at the Lane with Lily

Vanilli is now being hosted daily at the newly

restored Theatre Royal Drury Lane.

KILLEAVY CASTLE

66 Explore the east coast of Ireland from the

luxurious Killeavy Castle Estate.

EXPLORE THE UK’S NATIONAL

68 PARKS

Made easy with new pocket maps and walking

guides by Collins.

82 NOTTINGHAM

Britain’s largest small city, long associated

with Robin Hood, is waiting to welcome you back

safely and show that it's packed with much more

than just legends.

FOR YOUR JOURNEY

98 Latest travel essentials and crossword.

FEATURES

24

ANOTHER PLACE

We explore the lake, fells and waterfalls

around Ullswater in The Lake District during a

stay at Another Place with a magical stargazing

night swim experience.

COAST TO COAST

32 Wainwright’s famous trail across northern

England is an epic journey through landscapes,

history and time with the chance to explore three

of the country’s finest national parks.

HALCYON DAYS IN DEVON

38 Give yourself a health reboot with this

award-winning five-day wellness programme at

Yeotown, North Devon.

UNIQUE LUXURY BREAKS

48 We uncover ten of the best stays and

most exciting experiences for a truly memorable

staycation this season.

BritishTravelJournal.com 5


SPRING 2022 | ISSUE 11

BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM

£6.75

E D I T O R

L O V E S

This special edition English Sparkling

Wine by Royal Collection Trust, a

department of the Royal Household,

released in celebration of Her Majesty

The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee.

Buckingham Palace English Sparkling

Wine, £39, Champagne Flute Glasses,

£120.00 for a pair. Available from

Royal Collection Trust shops in London,

Windsor and Edinburgh or online:

rct.uk/shop

PREVIOUS PAGE LEFT TO

RIGHT: ST NONS CHAPEL IN

ST DAVIDS, WALES; OPEN WATER

SWIMMING AT ANOTHER PLACE,

THE LAKE DISTRICT. LEFT TO

RIGHT: HELEN MAGELL AND

HORSE WILLOW FROM STOCKS

HOTEL, SARK; PEDNVOUNDER

BEACH, CORNWALL.

THE MOST SCENIC TOURING

58 ROUTES IN BRITAIN AND

IRELAND

We’re ready to discover the brand-new Celtic

Routes, Kintyre 66, the South West 660 and

more, taking our time to savour the journey.

STOCKS ISLAND HOTEL

72 Spending 48 magical hours staying in

a beautiful country house hotel on Sark, we

discover the Window in the Rock, the Venus

Pool, Sark Henge and much more.

AFTERNOON TEAS

90 In a year that celebrates Her Majesty

becoming the first British Monarch to reach

the Platinum Jubilee milestone of 70 years of

service, there is even more reason to indulge in

a spot of tea or raise your champagne glass.

INTERVIEWS

44

SKYE GYNGELL

64

Renowned for her distinctively

seasonal, elegant cooking, acclaimed British

chef Skye Gyngell talks us through the

seasonal pleasures waiting to be discovered at

luxury Hampshire hotel Heckfield Place.

THE LAKES BY YOO

86 We speak to John Hitchcox about the

most exclusive lakeside estate in England

and his vision for the brand new super-stylish

lakeside cabins and apartments.

72

58

Subscription Offer

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country with a staycation, and we hope our

pages inspire you, as they have us, to begin

planning your next British travel adventure!

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IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN

BRITISH TRAVEL

JOURNAL

ULTIMATE

AWE-INSPIRING

JOURNEYS

FROM LAKES AND WATERFALLS

IN THE LAKE DISTRICT TO

STARGAZING ON A MAGICAL

DARK SKY ISLAND

WANDERLUST

& WELLGEVITY

ADD HEALTH AND WELLNESS

TO YOUR ZEST TO TRAVEL

+ TRAVEL NEWS | TOURING ROUTES | UNIQUE STAYS | NATIONAL PARKS

6 BritishTravelJournal.com

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LOOKING AHEAD...

TRAVEL NEWS

Longer days and warmer temperatures mean it’s time for a trip.

From hotels to big houses, we provide the inspiration.

Text by Jane Knight

NEW HOTELS

COTTAGES

EXCLUSIVE-USE

ATTRACTIONS

from page 10 from page 14

from page 16 from page 18

BritishTravelJournal.com 9


New Hotels

EDINBURGH

Gleneagles Townhouse

This city offshoot from the Queen of

Scottish country house hotels could be

Edinburgh’s answer to London’s The

Ned. With a wellness area in the old

bank vault and a swish restaurant in the

former banking hall beneath a spectacular

domed ceiling, the hotel capitalises on

the building’s former life as the Bank of

Scotland HQ. It’s full of cornicing and

columns, original fireplaces and panelling,

with canopy crown headboards in the

bedrooms. A rooftop bar will be the place

to see and be seen. Rooms from £495. ◆

gleneagles.com

CEREDIGION

The Albion

There are already coastal cabins, hill shacks, onsen domes

and a bell tent on Fforest’s 500 acres which are designed

so you can stay and play. Soon it will add a smart 23-room

hotel, overlooking the River Teifi in two of Cardigan’s

historic warehouses. Rooms from £113 a night. ◆

coldatnight.co.uk

LONDON

Chateau Denmark

This one’s bound to be a chart topper. In Soho’s famous

Denmark Street, where the Sex Pistols once lived and the

Rolling Stones recorded their first album, Chateau Denmark

opens on 4 April. Expect a nod to punk and psychedelia in the

55 rooms, which cost from £510 a night. ◆

chateaudenmark.com

10 BritishTravelJournal.com


BERKSHIRE

The Retreat Elcot Park

A country cousin to The Mitre Hampton Court, this former

childhood home of poet Percy Bysshe Shelley opens soon in

Berkshire, with 55 rooms, a spa and whisky tasting room.

Rooms from £180. elcotpark.com

LOCH LOMOND

Cameron House

Views of the bonny banks of Loch Lomond are

the highlight of this restored baronial manor

hotel, which re-opened last year following a

fire in 2017. The renovation has been designed

to bring the outdoors in, with views all the

way from check-in and the new lobby bar to

bedrooms with private balconies. Historic

details blend seamlessly with contemporary

comforts. Expect public rooms with striking

black lacquered panelling highlighted by

antique brass features, and bedrooms with

Timorous Beasties fabric headboards,

sumptuous velvets and tartans. A new lochside

extension with a ballroom is still to come.

Rooms from £265 with breakfast. ◆

cameronhouse.co.uk

COUNTY ANTRIM

The Rabbit

Scandi-chic interiors abound at Northern Ireland’s

newly opened Rabbit Hotel near Lough Neagh,

where rooms range from small attics to much larger

affairs with outdoor bath tubs and wood burners.

A spa with sauna, steam room, salt chamber and an

impressive outdoors Roman bath is about to open.

Its name? The Relaxation Burrow, of course.

Rooms with breakfast from £175. ◆

rabbithotel.com

BritishTravelJournal.com 11


LONDON

art’otel London Battersea

Power Station

Talk about a pool with a view. Overlooking

the iconic chimneys of the Grade II listed

power station, this hotel’s infinity pool

alone will make a splash when it opens in

late summer. You’ll get similar electrifying

views from some of the 164 rooms within

and from the rooftop bar and gardens,

which were designed by the same folk

who mapped out New York’s High Line.

Reached via the new extension of the

Northern Line, the art’otel will feature

works designed by a Signature Artist,

whose name, along with room rates, has

yet to be announced. Watch this space. ◆

artotellondonbattersea.com

One

to

watch

YORK

The Vices

The three rooms in this former Victorian police station are certainly

arresting: one has a brass four-poster bed, another a double circular

bath surrounded by gemstones. Six-course tasting menus are served

in the intimate restaurant, Allium — it’s definitely a long way from

porridge. Rooms from £350 a night, with breakfast. ◆

thevices.co.uk

DORSET

The Nici Hotel

It’s all about fun without the fuss at Bournemouth’s clifftop Nici

Hotel, which replaces the iconic Savoy. Due to open in June, it

comes with a buzzy bar, all-day dining, bikes to borrow, a pool,

and oodles of South Beach style in the 70 rooms. Rooms from

£175, with breakfast. ◆

nicihotels.com

12 BritishTravelJournal.com


GLOUCESTERSHIRE

The Fox at Oddington

Almost a decade after Daylesford Organics’ Carole Bamford

created waves in the Cotswolds with her pub with rooms,

The Wild Rabbit, she is following up with The Fox. With just six

bedrooms and a cottage, the gastro pub opens in June.

thefoxatoddington.com

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

Horwood House

Chill out at the new H Spa which has just

been added to this historic Grade II listed

hotel as part of a £6 million refurbishment.

With a 15-metre indoor pool surrounded by

heated beds, the spa features treatments

using Caudalie’s vinotherapy range. Pick

from an Express D-Vine Facial, an exfoliating

Crushed Cabernet Body Treatment or

perhaps a Fleur de Vigne Candle Massage.

You can visit for the day and enjoy lunch or

afternoon tea, and a 50-minute treatment

from £159, or stay the night, with an

additional £30 credit towards dinner and bed

and breakfast, from £229 per person. ◆

horwoodhouse.co.uk

New spa

Editor loves

LAKE DISTRICT

Rothay Manor

Tails will be wagging at Ambleside’s boutique

hotel with its indoors dog wash, dog-friendly

suites with gardens, and walkies outside the

front door. Eight new suites open in the Pavilion

from Easter, adding to 15 rooms in the hotel,

which has just been refurbished. Pavilion

rooms from £450, with breakfast. ◆

rothaymanor.co.uk

BritishTravelJournal.com 13


Cottages

CORNWALL

Fuchsia Cottage

The sea view is what it’s all about at cosy Fuchsia Cottage, which looks down

on the Cornish coast from the fishing village of Portloe on the Roseland

Peninsula. With courtyard garden, wood burner, spacious kitchen and two

en-suite bedrooms, it is also dog friendly. Short breaks from £822.

boutique-retreats.co.uk

THE COTSWOLDS

The Old Mission

Church

Allelulah! Church-going just got seriously

stylish, with this property for four in Paxford.

The stained-glass windows, original doors

and beamed, vaulted ceilings are still there,

with a world of contemporary chic within. A

designer kitchen opens onto the living and

dining areas while a glass and steel staircase

leads to a mezzanine bedroom with views of

the church interior through a glazed screen.

A second bedroom on the ground floor has

a freestanding bath. And, praise the Lord,

there’s a gastro pub over the road too.

Three nights from £1,180. ◆

ruralretreats.co.uk

NORTHUMBERLAND

The Loovre

The clue’s in the name — this quirky studio was once

a Victorian ladies’ loo. More recently, the unique

building within Berwick Upon Tweed’s Elizabethan

walls has been used as an ice-cream parlour. It now

holds a double bed and kitchenette with fold-down

dining table while outside is a private courtyard. As for

the conveniences, there’s a small shower room.

From £120 a night for two. ◆

crabtreeandcrabtree.com

14 BritishTravelJournal.com


GOODWOOD

one

of

the

best

hotels

in

the

country

DUNCAN CRAIG, TRAVEL EDITOR, THE TIMES AND SUNDAY TIMES

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Exclusive Use

KENT

Chapel House Estate

Get hitched in style at this luxury estate

in Thanet, with its Banqueting Barn and

Old Granary, and space to sleep up to 24

guests. The medieval Chapel House itself

has three lovely rooms, while separate

modern lodgings are set in the paddock.

Stroll around the 25 acres of gardens

and woodland, get the driver to take you

further afield, and call on the 24-hour

onsite concierge for whatever you need.

As for the ceremony, from June you can

say ‘I do’ in several places. ◆

chapelhouseestate.co.uk

OXFORD

Greyfriars Hideaway

Amid the dreaming spires of Oxford, this city retreat with

private courtyard garden is hidden behind a mysterious heavy

door just steps from Oxford Castle. Within are two beautifully

restored 17th century properties, which together sleep a dozen

guests. The smaller of the pair, The Masters Lodgings, comes

with a listed staircase leading to two suites, each taking up an

entire floor with their dressing room, seating area and stone

and porcelain bathroom as well as bedroom area. Downstairs

is a wood-panelled sitting room, a more formal dining area and

fully equipped kitchen.

Also opening onto the courtyard is Cloisters, which sleeps eight

in four fabulous suites, one of which has a Grade II listed ornate

plaster ceiling. Two others look out onto Oxford Castle, which

is illuminated at night. There’s plenty of room for everyone

downstairs in the large open-plan reception room with doors

opening onto the garden. The kitchen comes with everything

you need, including double ovens, no less than three sinks and

a wine fridge, though if you’d rather not cook, you can go out in

the city or book a private chef, one of several optional concierge

services. Three nights for 12 is from £7,600. ◆

greyfriarshideawayoxford.com

16 BritishTravelJournal.com


SPEYSIDE

Rothes Glen

What better base than a Scottish castle from which to set out and

taste Speyside’s whisky offerings? Newly renovated Rothes Glen

has its own whisky vault along with 10 ensuite bedrooms and some

seriously grand public rooms. Two nights from £11,500.

rothesglenspeyside.com

CORNWALL

Molesworth Manor

A two-year renovation has brought

this 17th century manor house in Little

Petherick bang up to date with everything

from a fitness suite with Finish sauna and

twin hot tubs to a games and cinema

room. There’s a firepit and BBQ outside,

as well as an open-plan kitchen within.

If you don’t fancy cooking, it’s just a

short walk to Padstow with its Rick Stein

restaurants. Like the rest of the house,

the seven ensuite bedrooms have been

beautifully designed. For even more

luxury, you can book a private chef and a

masseuse. A week for 14 from £5,285. ◆

cornishgems.com

WILTSHIRE

The Farm at Avebury

Take all six of the converted stables at this country

bolthole and you get independence for individual

families plus space to come together for gatherings

in the Barn and Granary. There’s farm food on the

doorstep and Avebury Henge and Stone Circle to

explore before a pitstop at The Red Lion, surrounded

by ancient stones. The rustic-chic hideaways sleep up

to 22 and open in July, with two nights from £3,590. ◆

thefarmatavebury.co.uk

BritishTravelJournal.com 17


Attractions

LONDON

The Chelsea Flower Show

There’s plenty to go wild about at this

year’s RHS Chelsea Flower show, which will

return from May 24–28 after a two-year

absence. Wild-flower meadows, blossoming

hedgerows and lush woodland will give

the show a back-to-nature feel, with native

English species transforming gardens

into wildlife-friendly havens. There will be

hawthorn and hornbeam, cow parsley and

crab apple, and plenty of poppies amid the

buttercups and nettles. A new category

called All About Plants will be held in The

Great Pavilion and will champion the many

positive powers of plants. ◆

rhs.org.uk

IMAGE © RHS / JULIET SARGEANT

BELFAST

Game of Thrones Studio Tour

Step inside the Great Hall at Winterfell where Jon Snow was

proclaimed King in the North, see Daenerys Targaryen’s

Dragonstone throne and find out more about the

Seven Kingdoms on the Game of Thrones Studio Tour

at Northern Ireland’s Banbridge. ◆

gameofthronesstudiotour.com

LONDON

Restaurant 1890 by Gordon Ramsay

Just 26 guests at a time can eat at The Savoy’s newest

restaurant, which opened in February overlooking the hotel’s

iconic entrance. Named in honour of the year that culinary great

Georges Auguste Escoffier joined The Savoy, it serves a tasting

menu, at £110 per person, with optional wine pairings. ◆

gordonramsayrestaurants.com

18 BritishTravelJournal.com


EDINBURGH

Royal Yachtsmen return to their beloved Britannia

Step aboard The Royal Yacht Britannia 30 May – 2 June in celebration

of the Queen's Jubilee, and see the former Royal Yachtsmen don their

white overalls, painting, scrubbing, sanding and polishing – as well as

enjoying their traditional daily tot of Pusser’s rum at 4pm.

royalyachtbritannia.co.uk

WEST SUSSEX

Petworth Park Antiques

& Fine Art Fair

A rare Chinese porcelain teapot from the

Qing dynasty, an Art Deco diamond and

platinum broach, and a Lalique vase are

among the items on sale at this year’s fair in

the grounds of the National Trust's Petworth

House. From May 13-15, it will feature goods

from 60 exhibitors. Among the etchings, and

paintings, the furniture and jewellery, one of

the more unusual pieces on sale is the toll bell

made for the first Vauxhall Bridge, originally

known as Regent Bridge, in 1810. If you fancy

it, it’s yours for a cool £14,500. ◆

petworthparkfair.com

Editor loves

CAMBRIDGE

Cambridge Country Club

It could be the perfect solution for golf widows

– this spa on the outskirts of Cambridge which has

just had a major facelift overlooks a championship

golf course. Leave your other half on the fairway

while you work out in the gym, wallow in the pool,

or enjoy one of the Elemis treatments.

Day spa packages start from £139. ◆

cambridgecountryclub.com

BritishTravelJournal.com 19


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TRESCO

The New Inn

At the very heart of Tresco, our much-loved family-owned private

island 28 miles from the Cornish coast in the Isles of Scilly,

The Inn with rooms has been given a fresh new look following a

substantial refurbishment to the bedrooms and Pavilion dining space.

tresco.co.uk

ACROSS THE UK

UNBOXED

There’s a unique celebration of creativity

taking place throughout the UK in 2022.

Designed to reach millions and bring people

together through large-scale light shows,

sculpture trails and installations in an

ambitious showcase of creative collaboration,

UNBOXED features ten major multi-site and

digital creative projects that share new ideas

and possibilities for the future. Events are

taking place from 1 March–2 October 2022 –

from the Outer Hebrides to Dover and from

Omagh to Swansea. Visit the website to find

out more about taking part. ◆

unboxed2022.uk/get-involved

LONDON

The White Company

Sleep Retreat

Harbour Hotels Richmond has teamed up with

The White Company to launch a special new Sleep

Retreat taking relaxation to a whole new level. Full use of

the spa, a top-to-toe massage, three-course dinner and

in-room gift set from The White Company’s Sleep Collection

will have you feeling dreamy and oh-so-refreshed. ◆

harbourhotels.co.uk/richmond

BritishTravelJournal.com 21


SPECIAL FEATURE

AFTERNOON TEA

AT THE LANE

Inspired by the decadence and splendour of the Regency era,

Tea at the Lane with Lily Vanilli is now being hosted daily at the

newly restored Theatre Royal Drury Lane.

Theatre Royal Drury Lane,

affectionately known as The

Lane has re-opened following

a £60 million restoration by

Andrew and Madeleine Lloyd Webber

offering a decadent Afternoon Tea that

is a playful, modern-day take on the

glamorous Regency era, created by Lily

Vanilli, the self-taught baker and owner

of Columbia Road bakery.

Whether stopping in before a show

or looking to spend an afternoon

indulging, guests can tuck into delicate

pink lemonade tarts with elderflower

jelly and a mini sticky toffee pudding

with an oozing centre of custard and

salted caramel. Dark chocolate sponge

cake, piped with buttercream in the

decorative style for which Lily is so well

known, layered with a biscuit crunch

and salted caramel and topped with a

tiny gilded chocolate cherub, will also

be served generously by the slice with

whole cakes on display and available to

take away as guests leave.

Savoury bites will include madeleines

with lapsang-souchong glazed salmon

and pickled fennel, bitesize cannelés

with whipped ricotta and pickled

beetroot, and a signature Lily Vanilli

puff pastry sausage roll made with

Cornish sausage meat, roast bacon

lardons and a cider vinegar deglaze.

Warm scones will be brought to the

table with salted whipped butter, cream

and homemade jam while guests sip on

Rare Tea Company teas and Taittinger

champagne. To round things off,

drawing on the Regency era’s trend of

creative and exotic ices, a trolley roams

the room serving scoops of heady

absinthe mint choc chip ice cream

made with Lily’s top-secret recipe. For

those looking for an extra touch of

luxury, Exmoor caviar is served in the

Grand Saloon all day, where gilded

high ceilings, large windows and new

crystal chandeliers create a sense of

Regency grandeur.

Designed by Alexander Waterworth,

the pale pink walls are lined with green

marble panels, framing the large bar

at the centre of the room, and for those

who want to enjoy Afternoon Tea

al fresco, spacious terraces leading

from the Grand Saloon overlook the

Covent Garden piazza.

Afternoon Tea is served on tiered

plates featuring mythical characters

taken from costume design illustrations

for the theatre’s ballets, comic operas,

pantomimes and Edwardian musical

comedies over the years. ◆

Prices from £49 per person (or from

£57 per person with champagne).

22 BritishTravelJournal.com


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ATTRACTION

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24 BritishTravelJournal.com


LUXURY ESCAPE...

ANOTHER

PLACE

ULLSWATER

Majestic mountains, glistening lakes, cascading waterfalls,

and soft light over the fells, tarns and woods. Another Place,

The Lake, is perfectly situated on the shores of Ullswater to

enjoy this mesmerising setting and explore the wild.

Text by Jessica Way

There has been nothing stopping this

new hotel collection since they launched

Another Place, The Lake, six years ago.

From BBC appearances to training

celebrities to swim in the open water, and now the

recent launch of Outside, a collection of rooms and

spaces allowing guests to be even closer to nature,

yet with all the luxuries and amenities of the hotel

right there on their doorstep.

Situated in the spectacular natural landscape

of the Lake District – the UK’s largest UNESCO

World Heritage site – Another Place, The Lake

is an impressive Georgian property with a stylish

new contemporary wing, immaculately converted

into a luxurious 40-bedroom hotel, including 10

family suites and 16 dog-friendly rooms. Open-plan

interiors and connecting spaces have been cleverly

designed with rustic materials and plenty of glass

making the most of the tranquil views. Guests can

relax in the library, unwind in the spa, and admire the

surrounding scenery from the restaurants, terraces,

balconies, garden hammocks and outdoor hot tub.

Set in 18 acres of national parkland with beautiful

gardens, a Victorian glasshouse, and their own

private jetty on the shore, there are plenty of activities

for hotel guests from stand-up paddleboarding to

kayaking and coasteering, writing workshops to yoga

on the lawn, to feel inspired by lakeside living.

BritishTravelJournal.com 25


We stayed in the colourful Joules Suite, beautifully

designed by Hannah Coates, art director at clothing

brand Joules. The room was bright, fun and eye-catching

with a playful design mixing modern with vintage.

This was the first hotel collaboration with a creative

designer, giving Hannah the freedom to create a room

with Joules own unique stamp, to include Joules furniture,

homewares and bed linen.

A successful concept, the hotel has since worked

alongside Matt Hulme of Dynargh Design, an awardwinning

interior design practice, to encapsulate the

Cumbrian landscape with a colour palette of tonal

greens, burnt yellows and statement Designers Guild

wallpaper (the Ullswater Suite, room 24).

For the ultimate luxury self-catering break there is the

most beautiful new spacious two-bedroom suite, Willow

Cottage, designed by Interior Design Masters winner Lynsey

Ford – her prize commission for winning the popular

BBC2 show. Ideal for four-legged guests, Willow Cottage

is located next to the hotel offering the best of both

worlds, your own private sitting room, reading nook and

pantry combined with full access to the hotel.

Like the Joules Suite, the Ullswater Suite and Lynsey

Ford’s Willow Cottage, the idea behind these partnerships

is to create unique bedrooms within the hotel with their

own strong identity – and it works well.

For those who prefer glamping, with the launch of

Outside, there are now six brand-new shepherd huts,

each with built-in stargazing roofs and wood fires, and

a stunning two-bedroom treehouse in a secluded spot

surrounded by trees with endless lake and mountain

views, and an outdoor bath and log burner.

26 BritishTravelJournal.com



For those who prefer glamping there are

six brand-new shepherd huts, each with

built-in stargazing roofs and wood fires,

and a stunning two-bedroom treehouse in

a secluded spot surrounded by trees with

endless lake and mountain views, and an

outdoor bath and log burner.


Another Place has much to be proud about – and

perhaps the most exciting news of the moment,

they will be launching their second hotel in the

collection, Another Place, The Garden next year.

Sensitive preservation and renovation work

is currently underway at country estate Amport

House in Hampshire, built in 1857 for the Marquess

of Winchester.

Location is fundamental to Another Place.

The team behind the new collection also own

Watergate Bay, situated on a two mile surfing

beach on the North Cornwall coast. Working with

the same designers behind Watergate, Household

(who have designed for brands such as Harrods,

Soho House and Christian Louboutin), inspiration

from the views, colours, textures and materials

that surround each hotel, be that by the coast,

countryside or city, is brought into their innovative

hotel-style, bringing the outside in and immersing

guests in nature, landscape and the outdoors.

For Another Place, The Lake, this includes bespoke

furniture sourced from local makers, swatches of

field greens, slate greys and bracken reds and a

20 metre glass wall pool creating the feeling of

swimming into the hills. There are some familiar

design touches by Household running across the

hotels too such as a striking zig-zag floor – a

technique to match the feeling of familiarity with the

intriguingly new. Next to the kitchen garden, which

supplies the hotel chefs with their own home-grown

produce, The Glasshouse is another recent addition,

and the hotel's newest restaurant, with tomato

vines and fresh herbs being grown inside. Guests

can enjoy breakfast, coffee, lunch, woodfired

pizzas and feast nights here as a relaxed alternative

to the hotel's Rampsbeck Restaurant, which serves

delicious meals from locally caught stone bass to

salt aged duck breast.

There’s also The Living Space adjacent to the spa

as another tasty option, perfect for alfresco lunches

serving lamb tagine, meze plates, salads and

sandwiches with a large outdoor terrace.

The lake itself is the jewel in the crown for guests

looking for meaningful experiences as part of

BritishTravelJournal.com 27



To experience swimming in a lake can, in itself, be incredible,

but the stargazing, and full-moon swims, adds an extraspecial

dimension. The magical setting of Ullswater, for many

the most beautiful lake in England, is just the most wonderful

spot for this experience...


their stay, described to us by the hotel General Manager, David Vaughan, as ‘active

relaxation’. The launch of the newly rebuilt Sheep Shed is a testimony to this, forming the

hotel's heartbeat to its lake activities. The lakeside cabin is perfectly equipped for warm yearround

changing, with hot showers, and has everything guests might need for getting out on

the water, including wetsuits, paddleboards, kayaks, dryrobes and safety equipment.

Following a delicious meal at the Rampsbeck Restaurant on our first evening we headed

across to the Sheep Shed for a stargazing night swim with open water swim specialist, Colin

Hill. This was the perfect way to meet other friendly like-minded visitors.

We walked along the shoreline before bracing the water together in our wetsuits with our

illuminated 'tow-floats' by our side.

To experience swimming in a lake can, in itself, be incredible, but the stargazing, and fullmoon

swims, adds an extra-special dimension. The magical setting of Ullswater, for many

the most beautiful lake in England, is just the most wonderful spot for this experience, and

knowing that the hotel (and hot shower) is simply strides away makes the idea of cold-water

immersions a little less daunting.

Following lots of floating and pointing up at the stars Colin confidently guided us to swim

back towards the hotel’s own jetty, where we had left our dryrobes and would finish our swim.

Colin is full of enthusiasm for cold water swimming and has quite an impressive backstory

– as one of the UK’s most high profile cold water swimmers, he is a world endurance cold

water champion who has been admitted in the International Marathon Swimming Hall of Fame,

and he was the first UK male Ice Mile swimmer to race one mile in under five degrees with no

wetsuit. In just trunks, a swimming hat and goggles he completed the mile in 24 minutes and

22 seconds, one of the fastest ice swims on record.

As well as training athletes and celebs (including radio DJ Jo Wiley, BBC personality Richie

Anderson and Radio 2’s Kate Bottley) in his specially designed ‘endless’ swimming pool

(adjacent to the hotel), Colin also takes groups on swimming adventures to Kailpot to enjoy

the secluded bay. A short boat-trip away in true Swallows and Amazons style we spent an

afternoon with Colin, climbing rocks and crags and jumping into the lake.

For the more adventurous, Colin guides small groups to swim from one side of the lake to

the other in a special one-mile 'cross lake' challenge. This is a journey Colin knows only too

well as it is also his daily commute to work. His house is conveniently situated on the opposite

shore of Ullswater to the hotel. Each swimmer who completes the challenge receives a Cross

Ullswater Swim medal in celebration of their achievement.

28 BritishTravelJournal.com


BritishTravelJournal.com 29


THE LAKE, FELLS AND WATERFALLS

With so much majestic wonder surrounding the

hotel, exploring the local area is the natural

choice for guests. The Ullswater Way is a 20-mile

walking route that goes around the entire lake.

Experienced walkers might enjoy the challenge

of hiking this in a day, or a five minute drive (30

minute walk) from the hotel to Pooley Bridge you

can sail on the Ullswater Steamer.

From Pooley Bridge at the north end of the

lake, it is a seven-mile boat trip to Glenridding

south of the lake, with options to stop at

Howtown and Aira Force along the route.

At Pooley Bridge there are plenty of pubs,

restaurants, cafés and gift shops.

30 BritishTravelJournal.com


FIRST SPREAD: COASTEERING IN KAILPOT. SECOND SPREAD:

ANOTHER PLACE, THE LAKE; NEW SHEPHERD HUTS; THE

JOULES SUITE; SWIMMING IN THE LAKE WITH COLIN HILL.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT; THE LAKE JETTY; VIEWS FROM

THE SWIMMING POOL; LOW FLYING RAF PLANE PASSING

THROUGH GLENRIDDING; JESSICA IN GOWBARROW FELL.

If you fancy a cycle ride, then pop into Arragon's Cycle

Centre. One of their most popular attractions is the

route to Lowther Castle. There's a lovely network of cycle

paths (mostly traffic free) to explore the Lowther Estates

with links over Askham fell, and the new Ullswater Way

Lowther Castle Loop trail.

After a leisurely session of make-your-own waffles at

breakfast, we spent our first morning exploring National

Trust's Aira Force, a beautiful cascading 60m waterfall

with new viewing platform, set amongst ancient woodland

and landscaped glades, before taking the awe-inspiring

four-mile round hike, 320m high, to reach Gowbarrow

Fell. At the top the panoramic views of the valley take your

breath away. I can only imagine how beautiful this spot

would be from which to watch the sunrise.

The following day we sailed to Glenridding on the

Ullswater Steamer to take on the Helvellyn Circular

eight-mile loop trail. It was an incredible experience which

took around 5 hours from start to finish. The final Swirral

Edge stretch is steep, full of rocky outcrops and large

boulders but once you reach the summit of Helvellyn,

950m high, you feel elated, and the views are incredible.


As we enjoyed our lunch two

low-flying planes in close succession

tore through the skies just in front of

us - it was quite a sight and a thrilling

surprise.


Glenridding is a beautiful village with quaint tea rooms,

galleries and gift shops. If you are looking for a less

strenuous walk then you might enjoy the eight-mile

lakeland footpath to Howtown. The mostly flat trail passes

the much-loved Artists’ Seat (celebrating JMW Turner, John

Glover and Ann Macbeth), the Kathleen Raine Poetry Stones

and Hallin Fell. You might encounter a RAF training flight

here too. As we enjoyed our lunch two low-flying planes in

close succession tore through the skies just in front of us – it

was quite a sight and a thrilling surprise.

The next morning, a recovery swim in the hotel's indoor

swimming pool watching the sunrise over the fells, I felt

more energised and refreshed than I could remember

feeling in a very long time. If this is the class of holiday you

can expect from Another Place hotels then I will be one of

the first to be checking in at their Hampshire countryside

counterpart in 2023. Watch this space!

Prices from £210 per night, another.place

BritishTravelJournal.com 31


COAST

TO

COAST

Walking Wainwright’s famous trail across northern England is an

epic journey through landscapes, history and time with the chance

to explore three of the country’s finest national parks.

Text by Alex Stewart

32 BritishTravelJournal.com


Your first decision is a key one.

Not which path to take, but

which pebble to pick. After all,

you’re going to have to carry

it 192 miles across England from coast to

coast, so you want it to be perfect. And

not too heavy.

Anyone familiar with Alfred

Wainwright’s epic walking route spanning

the north of England from the Cumbrian

coast to the North Sea will recognize

this tradition. If you’re not familiar with

the Coast to Coast, it’s the quintessential

English hill walking and long-distance

trail experience. The great fell walker and

guidebook writer plotted the route in 1973

and almost fifty years on it has a worldwide

reputation among walkers, eclipsing all

other long-distance routes in England in

terms of popularity and variety.

The route as imagined by Wainwright

walks up hill and down dale from the tiny

seaside resort of St Bees on the Irish Sea

to Robin Hood’s Bay near Whitby on the

North Sea Coast. Around two-thirds of the

time is spent in national parks, traversing

the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and

North York Moors via all manner of trails,

tracks, rivers, rock-strewn hills, peaty bogs,

meadows and moorland.

Dramatic upland scenery along the

route includes England’s highest fells and

its largest lakes, some of its most beautiful

woods and sections of its bleakest, barest

moors. There’s wildlife to watch for,

traditional villages to discover and the

poignant ruins of mills, mines and ancient

Iron Age sites to stumble upon. It makes for

a perfect two-week walking holiday.

BritishTravelJournal.com 33


And anyone undertaking this epic journey

starts by dipping a toe in the sea and picking a

pebble to take from seashore to seashore.

Although you can traverse the country in

either direction, most coast-to-coasters walk

from west to east, so the sun and prevailing

wind is at your back. Starting in St Bees at

‘Mile Zero’, the path heads straight up a long

grassy field to stride out along the edge of a

towering red cliff. Continuing north past fields

of sheep and banks of wild flowers there are

superb seascapes and great opportunities to

spot nesting seabirds before you turn your face

inland, towards the Lakeland hills.

Although not especially tough, the route

is certainly challenging enough when you

tackle it in one go. Because it’s popular the

temptation is to think it’s easy. Don’t be fooled,

you’ll be averaging 14 miles a day for two

weeks, in fair weather or foul, during which

you’ll ascend (and of course descend) the

equivalent height of Mount Everest.

Navigation on the network of connecting

footpaths, bridleways, minor roads and other

PREVIOUS SPREAD

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:

SUNLIGHT ON ENNERDALE

WATER, CUMBRIA; CALM

WATER ON HAYSTACKS,

THE LAKE DISTRICT;

VIEW OF SMARDALE GILL,

A NATURE RESERVE IN

CUMBRIA; THE OLD

STONE KIRKBYMOORSIDE

ROADSIGN ON BLAKEY

RIDGE, NORTH

YORKSHIRE MOORS.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

LEFT: LOW TIDE ON ST

BEES BEACH, CUMBRIA;

VIEW FROM GREEN

CRAG OVERLOOKING

WARNSCALE BOTTOM;

THE MARKET TOWN OF

RICHMOND SITED AT THE

EDGE OF THE NORTH

YORKSHIRE DALES ON

THE BANKS OF RIVER

SWALE;THE GRISEDALE

VALLEY AND TARN.

34 BritishTravelJournal.com



In the heart of Lakeland you’ll explore Helm Crag, Grassmere and

Patterdale, pass Angle Tarn at the head of Ullswater, and climb Kidsty Pike,

which at 2,560ft is the highest point on the trail.


rights of way can also be challenging,

which is where travelling with HF

Holidays as part of a small, escorted

walking group makes sense; let your

experienced walk leader take care of

all the logistics and map reading.

They’ll help bring the route to

life too, with insights and stories on

everything from local romantic poets

like Wordsworth and Coleridge to

lessons on medieval history.

The trail through the Lake District

crosses the bald crown of Dent Hill,

from the top of which are cracking

views of the Lakes ahead of you

and, on a clear day, even Scotland

and the Isle of Man. You’ll then

skirt Ennerdale Water and make

your way towards Haystacks, the

small fell where Wainwright’s ashes

are scattered, before reaching the

Honister Slate Mine and Borrowdale.

In the heart of Lakeland you’ll

explore Helm Crag, Grassmere and

Patterdale, pass Angle Tarn at the

head of Ullswater, and climb Kidsty

Pike, which at 2,560ft is the highest

point on the trail.

Then come the picturesque

ruins of Shap Abbey, the limestone

pavement of Westmorland and

empty Ravenstonedale Moor before

you reach the attractive market town

of Kirkby Stephen. Beyond here,

look out for the ‘stone men’ of the

Nine Standards Rigg, a row of 10ft

cairns protruding from the country’s

spine that mark the main west/east

watershed of England.

BritishTravelJournal.com 35


Then leave the Lakes to head into the Yorkshire Dales,

swapping craggy mountains for vast, endless moors,

which unfurl ahead of you as you descend to the timelapsed

village of Keld.

Follow the tumbling river through the Swaledale

Valley on foot-worn paths and over stiles smoothed

by hiking boots, alongside dry-stone walls and wire


Wainwright’s masterful route-planning means the beautiful tumble of

Robin Hood’s Bay itself is hidden from sight until the very last mile.


36 BritishTravelJournal.com


CLOCKWISE FROM

LEFT: SWALEDALE

IN YORKSHIRE

DALES

NATIONAL PARK

WINDS INTO

THE NORTHERN

PENNINES –

FAMOUS FOR

ITS MEADOWS,

FIELD BARNS

AND DRYSTONE

WALLS; GLACIAL

LAKE ANGLE

TARN IN THE

LAKE DISTRICT

NATIONAL PARK;

ROBIN HOODS

BAY, YORKSHIRE.

fences decorated with clumps of sheep’s wool.

Flower meadows are interspersed with fields of

crops, before giving way to moorland covered

in purple heather. As the miles pass, admire the

historic town of Richmond, still dominated by a

dramatic Norman castle, traverse the Cleveland

Hills and ascend Blakey Ridge. Cross the moors to

Glaisdale and Grosmont before striking out for the

coast.

Eventually you’ll turn south to follow the trail as

it curls along the coastal cliffs from Whitby and its

distinctive ruined abbey. Wainwright’s masterful

route-planning means the beautiful tumble of

Robin Hood’s Bay itself is hidden from sight until

the very last mile. Round North Cheek and the redtiled

roofs appear at last.

Here, walk through the village to the water’s

edge and stand on the slipway. Dip a toe in the

ocean. Reflect on the challenge you’ve undertaken

and bask in the satisfaction of crossing the

country. Revel in the camaraderie you’ve enjoyed

with fellow coast-to-coast walkers. Then fling the

pebble you’ve carried from St Bees into the sea

and seek out a pint of Wainwright’s ale – what else

– to toast the end of your journey.

THREE MORE TRAILS TO

TACKLE IN THE UK


ENGLAND

Hadrian’s Wall Path

The complete route along the

northernmost frontier of the Roman

Empire spans 84 miles from the Solway

Estuary in Cumbria to Segedunum

(Wallsend) in Newcastle, passing

through rolling fields and rugged

borderlands, with plenty of chances to

gain a rich insight into life in Roman

Britain as you walk coast to coast.

SCOTLAND

West Highland Way

Wind your way from Milngavie

(Glasgow) to the foot of the UK’s

highest mountain, Ben Nevis, at Fort

William on Scotland’s premier longdistance

trail. As you travel through

remote Highland countryside, soaring

mountains, the shores of Loch Lomond,

the wilderness of Rannoch Moor,

rushing rivers and giant forests combine

to reward you with an ever-changing

landscape.

WALES

Snowdonia Way

Immerse yourself in the natural beauty

of Snowdonia by walking among the

mountains from the charming world

heritage town of Conwy in the north

to Dolgellau on the southern border of

the national park. Follow valley trails,

hillside paths and Roman roads to

discover Aber Falls, summit Snowdon,

explore the Aberglaslyn Gorge and bag

the peak of Cader Idris.

BritishTravelJournal.com 37


YEOTOWN

HALCYON

DAYS IN DEVON

It takes just one week at this award-winning

life-affirming health retreat to feel your best. Located

on the picturesque North Devon coastline, Yeotown is

raising the bar with its holistic approach to wellness.

Text by Jessica Way

We all want to know the secrets to achieving optimum health. Yet,

with no shortage of health documentaries, cookbooks and expert

advice out there, most of us are still left searching for the answers.

We know the importance of a healthy diet, exercise and enough

sleep to maintain a healthy balance in our lives, but it is one thing to be told, and

another to be shown as you live through the experience yourself.

When the opportunity for a five-day Yeotox first came into my inbox

I hesitated. Memories of punishing bootcamps with heavy detoxing on Bentonite

clay and numerous pills while being cooped up with a group of strangers suffering

from caffeine headache withdrawal, almost had me hitting the delete button

quicker than a round of fastest-finger first.

Then I remembered a friend had told me about a beautiful North Devon

wellness retreat – one she recommended highly – describing it as both enjoyable

and luxurious, a world apart from the juice-fasting calorie-counting fat farms –

and yes this was the same one, this was Yeotown.

Although offering some people the kick-start they need, extreme bootcamps

are in my view similar to yo-yo dieting. Guests might shed the pounds and see

38 BritishTravelJournal.com



We felt that, based in the West Country and with our lifestyles of yoga,

surfing, and plant-based diets, we could offer our own carefully curated UK

based wellbeing programme...


some health improvements during and shortly after their

stay, but so often they do not help people to address the

underlying problems which need to be considered in order

to maintain positive change for the long term.

Yeotown Health Retreat takes a different approach

– it is not so much about weight loss, although this can

happen for guests – but about sustaining and maintaining

a more mindful ‘lifestyle’. There's plenty of walking and

cycling, delicious (largely vegan) meals, saunas, massage,

ultra-luxurious accommodation, daily yoga and mindful

workshop sessions. Yeotown describe this way of life as

‘Wellgevity’ (living a long and illness free life).

Owners Simon, an avid surfer and hiker, and Mercedes,

one of the UK's top Vinyasa Flow Yoga instructors, have

turned their own healthy lifestyle into a unique mindful

experience for others to enjoy.

“The idea behind Yeotown was to create a healing

environment for guests to find a space to rebalance,

de-stress and find healthier self-care practices for a long

and happy life”, explains Simon who first met Mercedes

during a yoga class in London, where she was teaching

Vinyasa Flow having arrived from Sri Lanka where she had

been doing Tsunami relief work.

It was in 2009 when they first identified a space for

wellbeing in the UK. “Friends of ours were travelling 3000

miles across the Atlantic to the Ashram in Santa Monica

for a week-long programme of yoga and hiking,” explains

Simon. “We felt that, based in the West Country and with

our lifestyles of yoga, surfing, and plant-based diets, we

could offer our own carefully curated UK based wellbeing

programme – and so we opened our doors to the first

Yeotox guests in 2011”.

Yeotown is set in 50 acres of rolling North Devon

countryside with beautiful sandy beaches in both

directions along the South West Coast Path for guests

to relish mile-upon-mile of scenic hikes. “The connection

between healing and nature is an important topic,” Simon

explains, (one he predicts is going to grow substantially in

the coming years), “especially now with so much science

to prove it, and finding the right environment and location

for Yeotown was fundamental to our success. North

Devon with its abundance of nature, the Atlantic Ocean

and fresh sea air was perfect”.

Having previously owned a design and furniture

business, Simon also had the skills needed to transform

Yeotown. Set in the retreat there are five ultra-luxurious surfchic

eco-lodges (each named after a key character strength

and virtue in the ‘Science of Happiness’, including Gratitude,

Courage, Wisdom and Curiosity), a fitness studio, sauna,

four treatment rooms, a vegetable garden and outdoor hot

tub with views out across the fields.

Simon was keen to ensure the eco-farmhouse was

designed with sustainability in mind, and he has committed

to running the retreat with minimal impact on the

environment.

40 BritishTravelJournal.com


“All of our eco-cottages run on eco-technology, insulated

with straw hay bale and powered by solar energy. We work

only with eco-friendly suppliers.”

Inside the farmhouse there are further bedrooms, two

lounges with open fires, plenty of books and blankets, and

rustic farmhouse kitchen complete with large farmhouse

table adorned by a centrepiece wooden antler tiered ceiling

pendant. Dotted about there are antiques, sculptures,

paintings and other interesting artefacts, including Jimi

Hendrix limited edition prints.

The beautifully converted barn turned yoga studio with

underfloor heating and wood-burning stove is located in

a pretty courtyard, where there is a smell of incense and

a family of beautiful white doves live and make coo call

sounds during practice.

Each day guests get time to relax with a muscle-melting

massage, either Deep Tissue, Thai or Shiatsu. The local

therapists at Yeotown are incredible, so much so that just 18

months after launch, Yeotown was voted UK Spa Retreat of

the Year by Conde Nast Traveller magazine.

“I think it’s because of the unspoilt nature in Devon that

attracts a very connected and conscious crowd that we have

been able to find the wonderful therapists and teachers we

have working with us,” explains Simon.

The atmosphere is extremely laid back and upbeat. All the

staff including the kitchen staff, therapists, yoga teachers,

and fitness guides seem so genuinely passionate to be a part

of the team. In this warm environment, it doesn’t take long

for the group to bond and there is an incredible fun-loving

and supportive energy - whether you are a national athlete

(like Olympic cyclist Victoria Pendleton, a recent guest),

a highly successful CEO (such as previous guest Chrissie

Rucker, founder of The White Company) or someone like

me, just wanting to try something new.

There is no calorie-counting or rations at Yeotown,

just wholehearted meals with natural ingredients

prepared by super-talented chefs. Think BBQ cauliflower

wings, mushroom miso broth with crispy tofu, and the

occasional locally-caught seafood treat – not to mention

the scrumptious puddings including sunshine cake with

turmeric passion fruit and orange cashew cream.

Guests are not usually told what is happening more than

45 minutes in advance as a way of enhancing the overall

experience – encouraging a mental-cleanse as much as a

physical one. While you are not given a day-to-day itinerary,

you do get a sense of routine from the usual 7.30am

morning yoga class, followed by breakfast, then the first

outdoor adventure of the day. The group are chauffeured

by a Yeotown guide to a nearby idyllic spot for a morning of

hiking, cycling, watersports or similar.

All fitness abilities are well catered for, with options for

joining different groups taking on challenges with varied

difficulty levels where everyone is supported without

judgement. From cycling 15 miles along a disused railway

line from Great Torrington to Barnstaple on the Tarka Trail

to passing by feral goats on the jagged cliff edges of the

famously u-shaped Valley of Rocks.

You are exercising of course, but super fit ex-army guide

Mo and ex-tennis professional and yogi Bertie, manage to

support and ensure every guest is smiling and laughing from

start to finish.

BritishTravelJournal.com 41


FIRST SPREAD: THE COURTYARD AND WHITE DOVES.

PREVIOUS SPREAD: SIMON AND MERCEDES SIEFF;

ECO-LODGE; HOT TUB. LEFT-RIGHT: LOVE AND BE LOVED

ECO COTTAGE; JESSICA ENJOYS NORTH DEVON COASTLINE

DURING A HIKE; BLUE SPIRULINA BLUEBERRY PANCAKES;

PINK PITAYA BANANA AND MANGO SMOOTHIE BOWL.

Back at the ranch, a member of the team stands

ready to greet you with a Yeotini, anything from

a vegan hot chocolate, chai latte to a refreshing

immunity-boosting juice. Following a nutritious lunch,

the rest of the day is a surprise mixture of mindfulness

and meditation, fitness and strength training, nutritional

workshops and cookery sessions - with a few unusual

activities thrown in for good measure, including selfhealing

and energising group singing lessons and qigong

sessions.

Outside of the main weekly programme there are

also a wide range of different experiences at Yeotown

including surfing, open water swimming, coasteering,

as well as other treatments including Reiki, Reflexology,

Hypnotherapy, and (Simon’s personal favourite)

Kinesiology.

Simon is also passionate that they are fortunate to be

working with some of the UK’s leading experts in their

fields such as psychotherapist Julia Samuel, Ironman

Triathlon Champion and sports doctor specialising in

Biohacking, Dr Tamsin Lewis, Gut Health specialist

Lucinda Miller and menopause coach, Mariella Frostrup.

“We have a number of programmes each year where

alongside the usual Yeotox activities we have added input

from experts in their field – we call these our collaboration

retreats”. Yeotown even has their own Devon version of Wim

Hoff, surfer, swim coach, triathlete in the Arctic circle and

cold water immersion specialist, Paul Irwin.

Paul takes Yeotown groups to the River Yeo just across

the fields from the farmhouse each week for cold water

immersions. “The benefits of cold water immersions are

plentiful both for physical health and mental wellbeing”,

explains Simon.

“On a physical level exposure to cold water, whether

an immersion or even a cold shower, boosts your body's

immune system. Wim Hoff talks about how we are

degrading our immune systems by choosing to live in

18-degree temperature-controlled environments and

thereby not challenging them.

To me as a year-round surfer, this makes sense and I am

lucky to rarely get colds or other illnesses as my immune

system is being challenged on a regular basis. On a mental

and wellbeing level we see groups coming back from the

sessions 'high' from the experience”.

In Devon you see people swimming in bathing suits

embracing the cold Atlantic for its health benefits all

year round, and Yeotown is a great place to give it a go,

especially as a first-timer. If however, you prefer a warmer

climate, then perhaps Simon and Mercedes' new retreat in

Madeira could be the better option for you.

“Madeira is a stunning island also known as the ‘Hawaii

of the Atlantic’ just a three-hour flight from the UK. The

nature there is much like Devon but ‘on steroids’. It’s a

small island with a 2000m high mountain range located

in the middle – so you can be hiking in the clouds in the

morning and swimming in crystal clear waters of 22

degrees in the afternoon,” explains Simon.

42 BritishTravelJournal.com



Sometimes our guests feel guilty about taking time out for themselves, but it

is really important for people’s well-being. We always say if you are not healthy,

grounded and happy then you won’t be of so much good to those around you.


With two children (Rumi and Indra) at school near the

retreat, North Devon is still very much their family home,

but they will now spend time in Madeira each year as

well as taking regular trips to their London restaurant –

Sussex Gardens. Based in London’s first Mindfulness hotel,

Inhabit Hotel (www.inhabithotels.com), Sussex Gardens

is about to expand into a new, larger flagship restaurant

at the hotel, complete with their signature complimentary

Yeotown Meditation Pods.

Simon believes in four main pillars for optimum health;

nutrition, exercise, yoga and meditation and sleep.

Each evening little cards and herbal teas or other

small gifts are left in your room as reminders of the

important pillars Simon describes, re-inforcing some of

your daily workshops. The importance of breathing into

your diaphragm (as opposed to your chest) for example,

avoiding using electronics, (answering emails, browsing

news, etc), or anything that may take you out of your

relaxed state. We learned from a sleep specialist that it

is not so much the blue light from your phone that keeps

you awake at night but more the stimulation of all the

information and messages your brain is calculating –

especially as you scroll through social media feeds.

And my favourite, a reminder that “sleep is the golden

chain that ties health and our bodies together,” and that the

science behind the proven health and wellbeing benefits of

getting a good night’s sleep is stronger than ever.

With it, a Yeotown specially crafted sleep-spray made

using fresh, pure Devon water from their very own River Yeo

running through the retreat. Following your deep breathing

exercises you are encouraged to simply spritz some over

your pillow a few times and enjoy a deep night sleep.

After a full day of activities, a bath filled with organic

bath salt, heated fluffy towels, beautifully soft dressing

gowns and crisp white bed linen from The White

Company, uber comfortable beds, and the scent of

geranium and lavender it is easy to fall into a quick deep

sleep at Yeotown.

Then the most important part of all, taking a little of the

Yeotown magic home with you. Whatever that might mean

to you. For some that could be a life-changing turnaround,

as with the youngest of our group, deciding to pack in her

marketing job in book publishing to travel the world, others

were left glowing from their weight loss more determined

now than ever to continue on their better-body journey,

and for me, I have continued my daily yoga sessions, kept

off the coffee, and introduced a more plant-based diet into

my home. I regularly make my own blue spirulina banana

Yeotown smoothies (delicious!) and have settled into a

much better sleep routine - which is thanks also to my new

Lumie clock and Egyptian Cotton bed linen and Sleep

Soothing Pillow Mist from The White Company. Overall,

I feel more positive, fitter and healthier. Do I feel more

mindful? Yes, thank you Yeotown, there’s no doubt I do.

“Sometimes our guests feel guilty about taking time

out for themselves”, Simon concludes, “but it is really

important for people’s well-being. We always say if you are

not healthy, grounded and happy then you won’t be of so

much good to those around you”.

Yeotown is running a collaboration retreat with Lucinda

Miller founder of Nature.doc Happy Gut, Happy Mind

between 5-9 October 2022 in Devon. Prices from £1950

all-inclusive, per person. The retreat is open all year round,

every week from Wednesday to Sunday.

yeotown.com

BritishTravelJournal.com 43


SKYE

GYNGELL

Recently awarded a Michelin Green Star,

sustainability lies at the heart of luxury

Hampshire hotel Heckfield Place.

Its culinary director and one of Britain’s

most respected chefs, Skye Gyngell, talks

seasonality, simplicity and sense of place.

Text by Sophie Farrah

44 BritishTravelJournal.com


Tucked away in leafy Hampshire lies Heckfield Place,

a grand Georgian home and sprawling 400-acre

estate that redefines the idea of a luxury hotel for the

modern age. Here, nature is king, and every effort has

been made to enable guests to slow down and feel a sense of

connection to their surroundings. From the handcrafted natural

materials used throughout the stylish, soothing interiors, to the

ever-changing seasonal menus that use fresh produce from the

hotel’s very own farm, dairy and orchards, Heckfield exudes a

uniquely serene sense of place.

“It could be the 18th century, or it could be 2025 - time seems

to stop at Heckfield,” muses Skye Gyngell; the hotel’s culinary

director and one of Britain’s most acclaimed chefs.

“And even though it’s so close to London, it feels a world away.”

Skye has overseen all things edible at Heckfield Place since

its conception and subsequent opening in 2018. Today, she

divides her time between chic London restaurant Spring and the

recuperative country escape, which has 39 beautiful bedrooms

and six sumptuous suites. When it comes to the hotel’s food

offering, Skye’s signature style of simplicity, seasonality and

sustainability is evident throughout.

“From day one, we wanted to make everything at Heckfield. Every

jam, every cordial, the breads and pastries, the liquors in the bar,

the ice cream - everything. We also produce our own eggs and

honey, and we have our own dairy, so we make things like yoghurt

and milk. We even have a Heckfield cheese,” she explains.

“It’s a huge undertaking, but we’ve really tried to capture that

sense of place. Guests love that the cream in their coffee or the

milk in their porridge has come from the estate, and that’s what

we’re trying to do - it's about making that connection to your

surroundings and enjoying the immediacy of it,” she adds.

“It definitely tastes better and has more nutritional value too.

Blueberries from Peru are just not the same as a ripe plum that

has been picked in the orchard that morning.”

Originally from Australia, Syke realised her love for cooking

whilst working in a small deli in Sydney when she was a

teenager. She promptly quit university, where she was studying

BritishTravelJournal.com 45



When you work really seasonally,

you get so excited about ingredients.

My style of food is quite ‘magpie’,

I take bits and pieces from everywhere,

...provenance is really important.


law, trained as a chef and moved to London, where

she landed the role of head chef at the now renowned

Petersham Nurseries Café. Skye quickly became wellknown

for her distinctively seasonal, elegant cooking

and in 2011, it earned her a Michelin star.

“I wasn't particularly confident as a teenager and

I realised that as soon as I was in the kitchen, I felt

comfortable and grounded. It became my happy

place,” she explains. “I love it today as much as I did

when I first started 40 years ago.”

Each day, all manner of fresh ingredients are

harvested from Heckfield’s bio-dynamic garden and

certified-organic farm, ready to be served in one of the

hotel’s two beautiful restaurants. There’s the light-filled

Marle, which earlier this year was awarded a Michelin

Green Star, a prestigious accolade that recognises an

outstanding commitment to sustainability as well as

culinary excellence.

Here, guests can enjoy the likes of Heckfield lamb

with broad beans, peas, turnips and horseradish

cream, farm leaves with shallot vinaigrette, and

hazelnut meringue cake with homemade rhubarb ice

cream. At Hearth, once the estate stable, a smaller,

curated selection of dishes is cooked over an open

fire; the five-course tasting menu, exclusively for hotel

guests, is not to be missed.

“When you work really seasonally, you get so excited

about ingredients. My style of food is quite ‘magpie’,

I take bits and pieces from everywhere, but the one

thread that goes through it all is purity of ingredients.

Provenance is really important,” explains Skye.

“All the menus at Heckfield are incredibly producedriven,

with every ingredient speaking for itself. It’s very

stripped back cooking.”

Further gastronomic delights to be unearthed at

the hotel include cocktails made with ingredients from

the gardens, served under a giant disco ball in the

celestial-inspired Moon Bar. In the warmer months,

a sumptuous, seasonal afternoon tea is served in the

light-flooded Glasshouse tucked away in the garden

and, whatever the weather, a freshly baked cake

appears in the House each afternoon.

“We always leave one lovely cake out for people

to help themselves to, like it was their own house. We

make all our own jams for the cakes too,” smiles Skye.

46 BritishTravelJournal.com


PREVIOUS PAGE: SKYE GYNGELL.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: BOX OF

PRODUCE FROM HECKFIELD HOME

FARM; ICE CREAM MADE USING

FRESH HECKFIELD CREAM; SEASONAL

DISHES; SEASONAL DESSERT; MARLE

RESTAURANT; SOURDOUGH BREAD.

After a slice (or two…), there is plenty of opportunity to

enjoy the great British countryside, from wild swimming

and boating on the estate’s beautiful lakes to guided

garden walks and regular tours of the farm. Luxurious

treatments at the hotel’s Little Bothy use ethically

sourced, all-natural products from the hotel’s own

Wildsmith Skin range, and a larger spa with an indoor

infinity pool is due to open later this year. Back at the

House, there’s a state-of-the-art cinema room and event

space, an extensive library and an elegant Drawing

Room, where board games and squishy sofas await.

“There’s plenty to do, but it’s a slow pace. We’re so

busy and over stimulated in life; at Heckfield you can just

curl up with the newspaper and listen to the crackle of

the fire. It’s an incredibly restorative place,” says Skye.

And while guests soak up Heckfield’s soothing ambience,

it is of course a different story in the kitchen for Skye

and her busy team, but as the old adage goes; ‘if you do

what you love, you'll never work a day in your life’…

“I'm definitely not as quick as everybody else in the

kitchen, it's very much a young person's game. It's long

hours, you need a lot of physical and mental energy, but

“I love it,” Skye explains. “I would have been a terrible

lawyer, anyway.”

BritishTravelJournal.com 47


10 OF THE BEST

UNIQUE LUXURY

BREAKS

Need inspiration for a short break? We bring you the most interesting

experiences that promise to make exploration more memorable this spring.

Text by Natalie Paris

48 BritishTravelJournal.com


1

SEA SAFARI FROM A SCOTTISH

CASTLE

Combining the luxury of living in a castle with

coastal exploration and wildlife spotting, this

carefully curated break in the Hebrides has

both style and substance. Two nights are spent

relaxing at Glenapp Castle, a Relais & Chateaux hotel

with a 110-acre estate in Ayrshire. The next two will

see guests striking out on a coastal adventure to the

remote island of Jura and a glamping site, where tents

are equipped with hot showers, duvets and tartan rugs.

A colony of seals can be seen on Jura year-round and

guests will take a rib boat to other islands too, stopping

off at Ailsa Craig, a sanctuary teeming with birdlife.

Longer, bespoke trips to more remote islands can be

arranged too, with a private chef on board.

glenappcastle.com

Four nights from £3,250 per person

2

HIKING AND A SPA IN THE PEAKS

What could be better than lungfuls of fresh

air and Peak District views, followed by welldeserved

pampering time? Buxton’s beautiful

new luxury hotel, the Buxton Crescent, opened

in 2020, putting the spa town back on the map.

The hotel is offering a new, invigorating wellness break that

makes the most of its natural mineral water and setting.

Spa treatments utilise the therapeutic properties of water

and guests can enjoy them after two guided hikes in the

area. The Achieve Peak Health programme includes hikes

that are tailored to guests’ needs and discussed with them

prior to their stay. They could include popular walks, such

as up to Mam Tor or Kinder Scout, or quieter routes. Three

tailored spa treatments will follow, including a mud pack,

underwater jet massage and a CO2 infusion mineral bath.

ensanahotels.com/buxton/en

Three nights’ dinner, b&b, with two hikes and three

treatments, from £650 per person

BritishTravelJournal.com 49


WALKING &

ACTIVITY HOLIDAYS

GREAT REASONS TO BOOK WITH HF HOLIDAYS

Over 100 years experience providing guided walking and special interest breaks

18 UK country houses in iconic walking locations

Experienced and friendly leaders

Full Board accommodation on all UK country house breaks

Perfect for Solos or Groups

TO REQUEST A BROCHURE OR BOOK VISIT HFHOLIDAYS.CO.UK | CALL 020 3974 8878


3

CLASSIC CARS IN THE NEW FOREST

Wind past ancient woodland in the New Forest on

this break that is a treat for anyone who admires

British motors. Country house hotel The Montagu

Arms is offering a fabulous fleet of classic sports

cars to guests who might enjoy driving in serious

style through this national park. Cars available include a red

1966 Jaguar E-Type, a 1967 Austin Healey 3000 MK III, and a

Gardner Douglas 427 Cobra.

The package includes a stay in one of the hotel’s courtyard

rooms, which, in the 1920’s, contained the house’s garages. In

the evening, guests can enjoy a seven-course tasting menu with

paired wine in the hotel’s three AA Rosette Terrace Restaurant.

Two tickets to the Beaulieu Motor Museum, just down the road, are

included too. You could even drive there.

montaguarmshotel.co.uk

One night’s dinner, b&b with car hire, from £997 for two people

BritishTravelJournal.com 51


4

SNOWDONIA STEAM

AND CYCLE

From coast to mountaintop, this varied

trip across Snowdonia involves both

cycling and genteel train travel. Devised

by Carter & Co, the journey includes

a stay in the colourful village of Portmeirion, where

The Prisoner was filmed, and where train trips to the

slate village of Blaenau Ffestiniog and down to the

Llechwedd Deep Mine on a steep cable railway are

possible. It then travels through the Welsh countryside

to Mount Snowdon – which can be ascended by steam

train. A cycle along the Menai Straits ends the trip on

the island of Anglesey in a luxurious Welsh chateau.

The other nights are spent in boutique hotels. The

tour is self-guided and involves five days of cycling,

though E-bikes are available to make hills easier to

tackle and train travel is occasionally an alternative.

the-carter-company.com

Seven nights from £2,520 per person

5

LAKE SWIMMING AND WATERFALLS

Spring may not be the most obvious season for

wild swimming but this is when a dip can be most

beneficial for our bodies. Experts say cold water

swimming can increase our white blood cell count,

boost immunity and release antioxidants. It is also

when you are most likely to witness those photogenic scenes

of mist hanging on the water.

17th-century Armathwaite Hall is a hotel located on the

shores of Bassenthwaite Lake. This quiet lake, backed by

views of Skiddaw Mountain, is recommended as an excellent

spot for swimming. The hotel provides a wild swimming coach

to ensure guests can take a dip safely here, as well as at a

natural infinity pool nearby and in waterfalls at Buttermere

over the course of half a day. If you are looking for a ‘nature

reset’ you might also enjoy their two hour Forest Bathing

experience followed by a 55-minute full body massage.

prideofbritainhotels.com

One night’s dinner, b&b and guided wild swimming from £320

for two people. Two hour Forest bathing experience costs £110

per person (based on a minimum of two people)

52 BritishTravelJournal.com


6

EPIC ROAD TRIP ADVENTURE

Embrace the wilder side of the UK with

a tour of some of its most magnificent

driving routes in an expedition Land

Rover. Celtic Routes has devised a new

trip that combines driving Scotland’s North

Coast 500 with the Causeway Coastal 120 in Ireland.

The company says it has enhanced the north coast

route, which encounters dramatic stretches of coast,

castles and enigmatic lochs. Motorists will then take a

catamaran across to Belfast for the Causeway Coastal.

Optional activities are possible along both routes, from

sea kayaking to horseriding and 4x4 experiences. It is

also possible to celebrate the end of the journey with

a two Michelin-star dinner at Moore Hall, Aughton.

There is an option to have a fully guided trip or a

self-guided journey in a Land Rover loaded up with a

bespoke guide and navigation app. Accommodation

includes converted castles, lodges and country inns.

celticroute.com

Twelve days from £2,100 self guided, or £2950 fully guided

7

HORSE WHISPERING AT

LUCKNAM PARK

The stables are one of two features

that set this fine country house hotel

apart – the other is its high-quality

spa. Guests who know nothing about

horses will gain an incredible insight into the

handsome animals – and perhaps even themselves

– if they try the hotel’s Equine Connect experience.

After watching a horse trainer guide a bucking

young stallion round a training ring, guests are

invited into the ring themselves with one of the

calmer horses. The animal is unbridled and, by

using nothing but their own body language,

guests are taught to encourage the horse to

canter. After some circling around, if the guest is

relaxed enough for the horse to approach, it will

submit by dropping its head and walking to the

centre of the ring to nuzzle the guest’s hand.

In what is often an emotional experience, the

horse might then follow the guest around, with no

commands necessary.

lucknampark.co.uk

One night with one Equine Connect experience, from

£500 for two people

BritishTravelJournal.com 53


8RURAL SKILLS IN THE COTSWOLDS

Learning holidays are a trend for 2022 and

there are lots of opportunities to pick up a skill

in the pretty Cotswolds. Guests staying in one of

Cotswolds Hideaways’ premium cottages can turn

their hand to a range of rural skills, from dry-stone

walling, to fossil-hunting or campfire-cooking. The Cotswold

Stone Experience, for example, incorporates looking for fossils

with time spent at a quarry learning a history of the area’s

sought-after, honey-coloured stone. Alternatively, in woodland

once belonging to Henry VIII, firewood will be gathered, logs

split and a meal cooked outdoors. The dry stone-walling course,

meanwhile, will see participants help build a wall that will

hopefully still be standing in the Cotswolds in two hundred years’

time. The dates of each course vary, see online.

cotswoldshideaways.co.uk

Three nights in Dyers Cottage (sleeps three) near Cheltenham with

dry-stone walling from £701 for two people

54 BritishTravelJournal.com


Find your special place

A portfolio of over 600 luxury, self-catering holiday homes

in the UK and Northern Ireland

From contemporary coastal barn conversions to charming

thatched cottages, we’ve hand-picked the very best properties

to bring you holiday memories to treasure.

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ruralretreats.co.uk


Escape to Killeavy Castle Estate

Enjoy luxury accommodation, award-winning dining and an indulgent spa experience in the

foothills of the majestic Slieve Gullion, Northern Ireland. Book your Summer Staycation now.

12 Ballintemple Road, Killeavy, Newry,

County Armagh, Northern Ireland, BT35 8LQ

killeavycastle.com +44 (0) 28 3044 4888

Get closer to what’s important.


9TROUT FISHING IN DEVON

Bordering moorland in the Dartmoor

National Park, Bovey Castle is a granite

country house hotel set in a wooded valley,

with a golf course and an ESPA spa. One

of the most peaceful ways of enjoying the

hotel’s lush grounds is by trying a spot of fly-fishing

in the hotel lake, which is filled with brown trout. No

prior knowledge of fishing is necessary as a “ghillie” – an

expert fishing guide – will be provided to show guests

everything they need to do to cast off. With any luck,

they will be shown how to reel in their own catch too.

After an hour’s fishing (for beginners, experienced

fishermen can have longer), guests can tuck into a picnic

hamper – made with local Devon produce – in an idyllic

spot on the lake shore. Guests can stay either in the main

hotel or in one of 22 self-catered country lodges.

boveycastle.com

One night with a fishing licence and beginner’s lesson,

from £400

IMAGE © TOWER BANK ARMS WINDERMERE NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES / PAUL HARRIS

10

SKIPPERED CRUISE ON

WINDERMERE

Who needs the Italian lakes when

you can tour Lake Windermere in

a vintage-style, British-built boat?

Abigail Leah is a sleek, teak-andmahogany

slipper launch designed by the renowned

boatbuilders Peter Freebody & Co. She arrives on April

1 at Storrs Hall, a country house hotel with an enviable

position on Windermere’s shore. Guests can embark on

a two-hour cruise from the hotel’s own jetty, on a voyage

that celebrates the arrival of spring on the slopes of the

fells surrounding the lake. The boat comfortably seats

up to five people for chilled prosecco and luxury picnics

can also be arranged. The grounds at Storrs Hall include

lawns that overlook a quiet side of the lake. Luxury cabins

come with cedar-wood hot tubs, while more traditional

bedrooms with lake views are found in the main building.

storrshall.com

Two-night stay and two-hour cruise from £700 for two

people

BritishTravelJournal.com 57


THE MOST

SCENIC

TOURING

ROUTES

IN BRITAIN AND IRELAND

With more than 50 touring routes to discover,

you’re never far away from a scenic adventure.

Ease up on the accelerator and lace up your

walking boots, as you savour these fabulous

roads, trails and footpaths in your own time.

Text by Caroline Mills

58 BritishTravelJournal.com


BritishTravelJournal.com 59


Touring is not about rushing

to a final destination. it’s an

opportunity to experience a

journey slowly, soaking up

immense scenery along the

route, taking time to walk, cycle, cruise and

enjoy numerous attractions while sampling

fantastic local produce along the way.

Here, we bring you a selection of the very

best touring routes – some classics, some

lesser-known together with a sprinkling of

new routes for exploring alternative locales.

WALES

Condensed beauty is a way to describe

touring through Wales. For such a pocketsized

country, the scenery is gigantic. Huge

mountain vistas, a long coastline of rocky

cliffs and sweeping bays, and vast inland

panoramas.

Much of this can be explored along The

Wales Way (thewalesway.com), which is a

trio of routes that, collectively, allow the

traveller to experience classic samples of

Welsh scenery, heritage and culture. The

North Wales Way travels from Broughton, on

the border with England, to Holyhead, on

the island of Anglesey.

The self-explanatory Coastal Way covers

180 miles from Aberdaron, on the Llyn

Peninsula, to St David’s, the village-sized

city in Pembrokeshire.

Completing the trio is The Cambrian Way,

the longest of the three routes at 185 miles,

which follows the spine of Wales from north

to south, beginning and ending in Llandudno

and Cardiff, crossing two national parks –

Snowdonia and the Brecon Beacons.

Less well-known is Marine Drive, a

miniature touring route on the north coast.

The tiny five-mile toll road (free for cyclists)

circumnavigates Great Orme Head.

Along the way are outstanding coastal

views of Anglesey and Snowdonia, and

opportunities to take the spur to the summit

of Great Orme for cable car rides. Keep a

look out for the wild Kashmir goats that

roam the headland!

What’s New?

Most recent to join the collection of

scenic tours in Wales is the Celtic Route

(celticroutes.info). It’s not about following

one specific road, rather an opportunity

to explore the southwest counties of Wales

– Carmarthenshire, Ceredigion and

Pembrokeshire – and is linked to the Celtic

Route on Ireland's east coast (see below).

Neither is touring the Celtic Route solely

about ancient history. Yes, the idea is to

hark back to the region’s Celtic roots, but

the scenic tour is more to enjoy immersive

experiences, to understand the landscape,

authenticity and heritage of the locales.

It’s about leaving the Sat-Nav at home

and taking the road less travelled to find

distinguishing places and moments to

make memories. The boon of Celtic Routes

is that there’s no need to set aside weeks to

complete any one journey or start and finish

in specific places. It could be a day to explore

one tiny locale, such as the Preseli Hills in

Pembrokeshire, a long weekend to discover

a stretch of coastline like the rugged cliffs

around New Quay, or pick a theme and

spend a week discovering the stories that

make this Celtic land.

Looking for somewhere to stay?

Penally Abbey offers cosy, country hotelstyle

refinement within five minutes of Tenby.

Further east is Brown’s Hotel in Laugharne;

the historic boutique residence was a

favourite haunt of writer Dylan Thomas.

For an inland hideaway, Jabajak offers

individually furnished suites in a vineyard

setting, with home-produced wines served in

the bistro restaurant.

60 BritishTravelJournal.com


scenery is the Snow Roads Scenic Route

(snowroads.com), which crosses the

Cairngorms National Park. The linear route

explores 90 miles of spellbindingly beautiful

countryside between Blairgowrie and

Grantown-on-Spey.

To add to the exhilaration, you’ll find

various art installations along the way,

such as the The Watchers, overlooking the

magnificent Corgarff Castle, complete with

photo posts to advise the best way to point

your camera. To boot, a trip along the Snow

Roads allows bragging rights of touring the

highest public road in the British Isles.

SCOTLAND

For the sheer number of exceptional touring

routes and scenic drives, Scotland is king.

Whether exploring the castles of Aberdeen,

the malt whisky of the Highlands, the history

of the Scottish Borders or the Hebridean

Way by bicycle, you’ll find a way. The route

that became an overnight classic and put the

Highlands literally on the map is the circular

North Coast 500 (northcoast500.com).

With 500 miles of mesmerising scenery,

there’s the chance for seal-spotting and

whale-watching on the east coast. Across

the top, the Castle of Mey, the beloved

holiday home of Her Majesty, Queen

Elizabeth the Queen Mother, is a don’t miss

attraction.

But it’s the west coast that offers the

greatest jewels – including a jewel-like sea

when the sun shines. Balnakeil Bay, in the

northwest corner, arguably tops all others.

A lesser-known tour with remarkable

What’s New?

Many touring routes that have developed

in Britain and Ireland over the past few

years are big, world-beating drives that

require much time and stamina to fully

appreciate. Along comes the Kintyre 66,

(wildaboutargyll.co.uk).

World-beating, yes, but it’s bite-sized in

comparison to others. The 66-mile circular

route in Argyll takes in the stunning scenery of

the Kintyre peninsula, sandwiched between

the Kilbrannan Sound and Sound of Gigha.

Skipness Castle, Davaar Island, Campbeltown

– the ‘capital’ of the peninsula – and the

extraordinary sandy Machrihanish Bay are

mere tasters of what to see. For an extension

to the tour, a trip to the Mull of Kintyre, the

headland in the far southwest of the peninsula,

is a highlight. Walking (including the Kintyre

Way), cycling plus a round of golf are inevitable.

Looking for somewhere to stay? If you’re

short on time, the loop is ‘doable’ in a

day. But that’s an injustice; better to stay

a while on the Torrisdale Castle Estate for

self-catered luxury, or The Royal Hotel in

Campbeltown when you’d prefer someone

else to wash up.

BritishTravelJournal.com 61


ENGLAND

There have been few acclaimed longdistance

touring routes in England until

recent years, despite its comparative

size. A classic is the Great West Way

(greatwestway.co.uk) that links London and

Bristol. Developed as a leisurely 125-mile

tour in 2019, the route evolved from the

centuries-old Great West Road, which was

commissioned by King Charles I to expedite

the delivery of post.

Today, the Great West Way covers a

15-mile-wide network of roads, footpaths,

cycle trails, rail and canal towpaths, and

many notable attractions to suit every

interest through multiple counties, including

Berkshire, Wiltshire and Somerset.

62 BritishTravelJournal.com

Less-well known is The Explorer’s Road

(explorersroad.com), a 300-mile route

between Hertfordshire and Berwick-upon-

Tweed. The touring route, which loosely

follows the A1, was developed to encourage

tourists from the Netherlands and Germany

to visit. Regardless, anyone can follow the route

to discover historic cities like Cambridge,

Lincoln, York and Newcastle, and quaint

towns such as Oakham and Uppingham in

Rutland, England’s smallest county.

What’s new?

The South West 660 (southwest660.com),

the very latest outstanding touring route to

enjoy, is one to set time aside for. The route

follows the coastline from Poole in Dorset

to Watchet in Somerset, taking in iconic

IMAGES © VISITSCOTLAND / KENNY LAM / GREAT WEST WAY


FIRST SPREAD: AERIAL

VIEW OF CEREDIGION.

PREVIOUS SPREAD:

ASTON MARTIN ON THE

NORTH WALES WAY;

THE CAMBRIAN WAY.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:

VIEW FROM STAC

POLLAIDH, SUTHERLAND;

CHERHILL DOWNS ON

THE GREAT WEST WAY.

NEXT SPREAD: ROAD TO

MOLLS GAP, CO KERRY,

IRELAND.

sites like Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door

in Dorset, the English Riviera and beautiful

Dartmouth in South Devon, and the wild

beauty of Kynance Cove, St Michael’s

Mount and Cape Cornwall as you tour the

‘boot’ of Cornwall.

The route continues along the north

coast of Cornwall, taking in St Ives,

Tintagel and Boscastle before placing the

ruggedness of the North Devon coast centre

stage. Here, the gorgeous fishing villages

of Hartland Quay, Clovelly, Appledore

and Mortehoe, each with tiny terraces of

fishermen’s cottages, create the backdrop

for your tour before climbing for, arguably,

the finest scenery of the route – Exmoor

National Park.

Though 660 miles in all, the route has

been split into 12 sections of around 50

miles, each offering differing characteristics.

It’s possible to drive the route in a week,

though you’d barely step out of the car to

stretch your legs. Our recommendation

would be to take your time over three to four

weeks, giving a week to each of the four

counties.

Looking for somewhere to stay?

For Dorset, try The Pig on the Beach in

Studland or, slightly inland, The Ollerod in

Beaminster. For an extraordinary location,

the Burgh Island Hotel is your destination in

– or, actually, off the coast of – South Devon.

In Cornwall, The Idle Rocks in St Mawes is a

great choice though if you wish to be king or

queen of your own castle, Pentillie Castle in

Saltash offers exclusive stays.

For a hotel that shouts ‘look-at-me’, you’ll

need the Art Deco Saunton Sands Hotel

and its pool with a view, but for something

more hideaway and genteel, The Old

Rectory Hotel within Exmoor National Park

is an option.

BritishTravelJournal.com 63


DISCOVER

YOUR WAY

We are offering two readers the

chance to WIN a fabulous Great

West Way break including travel

with 2 Discoverer rail and bus

passes, accommodation

and more.

To enter and find out more

www.greatwestway.co.uk/win

Begin your next adventure at

GreatWestWay.co.uk

#EscapetheEveryday


IRELAND

If Scotland is king of scenic

touring routes, Ireland certainly

has some fit for a queen; Queen

Victoria visited Kerry, the location

of the island’s most famous

touring route, in 1861. The 111-mile

Ring of Kerry around the Iveragh

Peninsula has become so popular

that a one-way system has been

implemented to avoid congestion.

With the scenery of Killarney

National Park, including the

famous Ladies’ View (from said

visit by the Queen), little wonder

the route is hugely admired.

Two other modern classics in

Ireland include the Wild Atlantic

Way (discoverireland.ie) – the

giant of world-beating road trips

at 1600-miles long – that takes

in the entire west coastline from

County Donegal to County Cork;

and the 131-mile Causeway Coastal

Route (discovernorthernireland.

com) in Northern Ireland, that

takes in the Giant’s Causeway.

Legend has it that the giant Finn

McCool created his own ‘touring’

route to Scotland.

Visitors to the UNESCO World

Heritage Site today will get wet

feet should they attempt such a

trip; better to follow the coastal

route on land between Belfast and

Derry.

What’s New?

In collaboration with partners in

Wales, Ireland has the other pairing

of the Celtic Routes (celticroutes.

info). Like its counterpart, there’s

no one road to follow, but an entire

region of distinct Celtic heritage

to explore. One could spend a

lifetime discovering this diverse

region, so rich is it with ancient landand

seascapes, from the rugged

mountains of County Wicklow,

iconic seascapes like the Hook

Peninsula in County Wexford, or

finding ancient standing stones in

County Waterford. Set aside at least

a fortnight to make in-roads.

Looking for somewhere to stay?

Take time out at the Dunbrody

Country House Hotel, set in 300

acres on the Hook Peninsula in

County Wexford. For magnitude,

the Palladian architecture of the

Powerscourt Hotel offers wow

factor in County Wicklow. In County

Waterford, you can retreat to the

Waterford Castle Resort, set on its

own 310-acre island.

OR JOIN AN EVENT...


Walkers will love a Mighty Hike

Mighty Hikes, organised by

Macmillan Cancer Support, are a

fantastic series of one-day hiking

marathons. From the Northern

landscapes along the Ullswater Way

from Dalemain to Lowther Castle to

the magnificent Jurassic Coast from

Weymouth to Wareham, past the

iconic Durdle Door and Lulworth

Cove, Mighty Hikes take you to some

of the most beautiful and unspoiled

parts of England, Scotland, Wales

and Northern Ireland.

Motorcyclists should join in the fun

of The Highland Scramble

A favourite with adventurer celebrities

Charley Boorman and Joe Wicks,

this curated all-inclusive adventure

ride starts outside Edinburgh on the

edge of Gleneagles golf resort in

Auchterarder and winds its way

across the breadth of Scotland covering

nearly 1,000 miles over five days.

Events run May–September 2022.

Cyclists should saddle up for a

Ride Across Britain

Push yourself to the limit and make

memories to last a lifetime on one

of the UK’s greatest two-wheeled

challenges. Join hundreds of other

cyclists from Land’s End to John

O’Groats on the ultimate British bike

ride – nearly 1,000 miles in nine days

through marvellous landscapes.

There’s full support en route – food,

mechanics and medics – leaving

you to focus wholly on making

friends – and the road ahead (10–18

September 2022).

BritishTravelJournal.com 65


KILLEAVY CASTLE

Explore the east coast of Ireland from the luxurious

Killeavy Castle Estate.

Set within 350 acres of woodland and working

farmland in the foothills of Slieve Gullion

in County Armagh, Northern Ireland, the

luxurious Killeavy Castle Estate is the perfect

base to explore Ireland, north and south.

Just one hour from Dublin or Belfast, Killeavy Castle

Estate has as its centrepiece the stunningly refurbished

Killeavy Castle – a Grade A listed 19th century gem that

lay derelict for many years before being sympathetically

restored to its former glory. Alongside the Castle there

is an award-winning 45-bedroom luxury boutique

style Hotel, with spa, restaurant and bar, as well as a

picturesque self-catering Gatelodge property.

The Estate opened in 2019 following a £12m investment

and sits within an area of outstanding natural beauty.

While the history and majesty of Killeavy Castle embodies

the luxury experience guests can enjoy, Killeavy is also

grounded in an ethos of sustainability with a working farm

and walled gardens providing 90% of the food served in

the hotel’s award-winning restaurant.

Not only does Killeavy Castle Estate pride itself on

giving guests a first-class experience, it is also leading

66 BritishTravelJournal.com



Guests can visit the farm animals,

walk the walled gardens and see

how expert artisans cure, smoke and

preserve the meat that features on

the Estate’s menus.


PROMOTION

the way in sustainable tourism. A new Farm Store and

Estate Garden open in March 2022 giving guests the

opportunity to experience first-hand how the food for

the Estate is produced. Guests can visit the farm animals,

walk the walled gardens and see how expert artisans

cure, smoke and preserve the meat that features on the

Estate’s menus.

Killeavy Castle Estate aims to create a legacy of

sustainability throughout the Estate - that includes

everything from the food that is served to its zero plastics

policy, energy reduction and plans to restore the 19th

century water wheel for renewable energy production.

The Estate is working towards achieving net zero by

2027 and has embarked upon a reforestation initiative

that will see the replanting of Slieve Gullion with

broadleaf trees.

Guests can enjoy the magnificent countryside

surrounding Killeavy Castle Estate with miles of scenic

walking and cycling trails that can be accessed directly

from the Estate. Foraging, forest bathing, mindfulness

experiences and ebike hire are also on offer.

Killeavy Castle Estate’s central location, just one hour

from either Belfast or Dublin airports, makes it the perfect

base to explore the East Coast of Ireland. Guests can take

a daytrip north to visit Belfast with its vibrant shopping and

entertainment scene. The world-leading Titanic Belfast

celebrates its 10th anniversary this year and Belfast’s

Cathedral Quarter, Ulster Museum, Botanic Gardens

and St. George’s Market are all worth a visit.

An hour’s journey south will allow guests to explore

Ireland’s capital city, Dublin where the Guinness

Storehouse, Book of Kells, Trinity College and the historic

Dublin Castle all prove popular visitor attractions.

Closer to home, in County Armagh, where Killeavy

Castle Estate is situated, guests can explore the

Cathedral City of Armagh or visit the Armagh Orchards,

the 250-year-old Robinson Library with its display of rare

books or the Armagh Planetarium.

Game of Thrones fans can visit the first ever Game

of Thrones tour opened in the world at the Linen Mill

Studios, Banbridge, where fans will be treated to a set

tour of all things surrounding the series.

For the more adventurous, a short drive east takes you

to County Down where you can climb the Mountains of

Mourne and master Slieve Donard or visit St. Patrick’s

grave and Visitor Centre in Downpatrick.

Killeavy Castle Estate is the perfect location for a

couple's retreat or romantic getaway. Not only does the

Estate offer luxury and relaxation with the joy of getting

back to nature, but its central location makes it the

ideal base to explore the historic and vibrant cities and

attractions of the surrounding area. ◆

To find out more about Killeavy Castle Estate and

make a reservation visit killeavycastle.com

BritishTravelJournal.com 67


EXPLORE THE UK'S

NATIONAL

PARKS

WITH COLLINS’ NEW POCKET MAPS

AND WALKING GUIDES

68 BritishTravelJournal.com


PROMOTION

Published in association with National

Parks UK, Collins’ official Pocket Maps and

Favourite Walks Guides are a must-have

for any outdoor enthusiast with a desire to

explore the UK’s National Parks.

Offering handy guidance

to each of the National

Parks, the full range of

small-format maps includes

detailed mapping with key park, tourist

and travel information along with a

selection of photographs - ideal for

planning visits to the National Park.

Complementary Favourite Walks

guides for eight of the National Parks

contain 20 of the best circular walking

routes, as chosen by National Park

Rangers. Each walking route varies in

length from two to 10km and can be

completed in less than four hours.

BritishTravelJournal.com 69



Following a time when the natural

world around us has been so important

and beneficial to so many of us, it couldn’t

feel more appropriate to publish these

handy guides for visitors planning to

enjoy our National Parks and explore the

UK’s incredible landscape.


Alex Beecroft, Managing Director, Collins

Detailed description for each walk is

included, with highlights clearly marked on

the map along with photographs. You’ll

also find general information about the

National Park plus basic advice on walking.

“Collins is delighted to be working with

National Parks UK to publish this new

pocket series of maps and walking guides

which are the perfect complement to more

detailed Ordnance Survey maps,” said

Alex Beecroft, Managing Director, Collins. ◆

70 BritishTravelJournal.com


PREVIOUS SPREAD LEFT

TO RIGHT: GRINDSLOW

KNOLL, PEAK DISTRICT

NATIONAL PARK;

ST NONS CHAPEL,

PEMBROKESHIRE COAST.

CLOCKWISE FROM

LEFT: SIMONSIDE HILLS,

NORTHUMBERLAND

NATIONAL PARK;

BUNGAY, BROADS

NATIONAL PARK;

BUTTERMERE, THE

LAKE DISTRICT; BLUE

LAGOON ABEREIDDY,

PEMBROKESHIRE COAST.

POCKET MAPS FOR EVERY UK NATIONAL PARK


New 2022 Pocket Maps for the Brecon Beacons, Exmoor, Lake District,

Loch Lomond & The Trossachs, New Forest and Northumberland have been

added to the current range; the South Downs, Peak District, Snowdonia,

North York Moors, Yorkshire Dales, Broads, Pembrokeshire Coast, Cairngorms

and Dartmoor, meaning there is now a map for every UK National Park

Favourite Walks guides are available for the South Downs, Yorkshire

Dales, Snowdonia - with new 2022 guides covering Broads, Lake District,

Northumberland, Peak District and Pembrokeshire Coast

UK National Parks Pocket Maps, £3.99 and National Park Ranger

Favourite Walks, £6.99 are published by Collins

BritishTravelJournal.com 71


STOCKS HOTEL IS A BEAUTIFUL,

23 BEDROOM, COUNTRY HOUSE

HOTEL LOCATED AT THE HEART

OF SARK


48 HOURS IN SARK

STOCKS

ISLAND HOTEL

Take a step back in time to this magical island

in the south-western English Channel off the

coast of Normandy. Enjoy peace and tranquillity

exploring the picturesque coastal paths, magnificent

gardens and idyllic hidden bays.

Text by Jessica Way

There are many reasons to be smitten with Sark. As the smallest

of the four main Channel Islands (with around 500 'Sercquaise'

living on the island), there are no cars and no street lights – just

unpolluted, unspoilt charming landscape, and many hidden

gems waiting to be discovered. The locals are wonderful, friendly

and quirky – we learned Sark even has its own language, "Sercquiais"

with around 15 people still speaking it today.

Don’t however be fooled by its beauty, Sark is an island you don't mess with.

In August 1990, André Gardes, an unemployed nuclear physicist from

France, attempted an audacious one-man invasion. After arriving on Sark,

he put up posters declaring his intentions to take control the following day at

noon. However, whilst changing the magazine of his automatic rifle the next

morning, the island’s only volunteer police constable arrested him and the

invasion came to an early and unsuccessful end.

Images are by local Sark photographer

Ben Fiore and Jessica's own

BritishTravelJournal.com 73


CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: SARK HARBOUR; SARK'S STARRY SKIES;

STOCKS POOLSIDE LAWNS, HOME TO WILLOW SCULPTURE OF

RONALDO THE CLYDESDALE HORSE; STOCKS SWIMMING POOL

SURROUNDED BY ACRES OF MATURE WOODLAND AND HOME

TO THE OLDEST MULBERRY TREE IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS;

STOCKS HOTEL FARMHOUSE; LA COUPEE.

be granted Dark Sky status. Perfect for the band of local

enthusiastic stargazers who run Sark’s astronomical

society, and who today share the wonders of Sark's

magical night-time display with their island visitors.

As a place with no motor vehicles (apart from farm

tractors), journeys are either made by horse and cart, or

by walking and cycling along the tracks and pathways.

The islands of Sark and Little Sark are connected by

a narrow isthmus, La Coupée. For many years it was

believed to be haunted, and residents thought that their

donkeys refused to cross the rocky ridge because they were

frightened by the presence of a ghostly dog named Tchico

- not because of the steep 260ft drops on either side!

We stayed at Stocks Hotel, the finest luxury hotel on

Sark, located at the heart of the Island. Home to the

Armorgie family for 30 years, now owned by the Woolford

and Magell families. Originally an early-Georgian

The Clameur de haro is a traditional custom historically

used on Sark. If a Sarkee believes their rights are being

infringed, (to stop a neighbour from building a fence,

for example) they can still issue an injunction by reciting

the Lord’s Prayer and then crying “Haro, Haro, Haro! To

my aid, my Prince! I am being wronged!” in French, and

the disputed action must be stopped until the matter is

resolved in court.

This was used as recently as 2021 in a boundary dispute

affecting access to a property. Famous for having been

ruled since the 16th century, in a unique, pseudo-feudal

manner by a ‘Seigneur’, the constitution was modernised,

only in 2008, to allow for a democratically elected council

style assembly.

The locals are passionately proud of their island and

quite rightly so. The lack of roads, houses and street lights

enabled Sark to become the first island in the world to

74 BritishTravelJournal.com



The lack of roads, houses and

street lights enabled Sark to

become the first island in the world

to be granted ‘Dark Sky’ status.


granite farmhouse, becoming a hotel in 1895, sitting in a

sheltered, south-facing valley and surrounded by acres of

grounds, some tended as immaculate gardens and others

given to woodland and meadow. Perfectly presented,

its 23 newly-renovated bedrooms and suites provide

spacious, stylish and comfortable accommodation.

The suntrap terraces, housing a heated, outdoor

swimming pool, are just right for afternoon tea or a

glass of the hotel’s delicious homemade wine, and the

restaurant’s reputation for the quality of its dishes, using,

predominantly, locally sourced ingredients, is absolutely

right – the food is delicious. The gardens feature a

traditional old granite cider press, one of a number still

found in Sark, and adjacent to the swimming pool is

allegedly the oldest mulberry tree in the Channel Islands.

DAY ONE

Life on Sark needs to be experienced to be truly

appreciated. Following a scrumptious farmhouse breakfast

at Stocks Hotel we were determined to see as much of the

Island as possible. Our adventure began with some rather

daring coasteering, scrambling along the picturesque

coastline of Havre Gosselin and Visitor Moorings.

We met James, our guide from Adventure Sark at

their base opposite the Island Hall just a short cycle ride

from Stocks Hotel. Wet suits on, we walked and chatted,

passing the Methodist Chapel, Beauregard Duck Pond

and Pilcher Monument before descending the cliffs to

reach the shoreline.

There was quite a swell in the water, blue skies, crisp air

and a ray of warm morning sunshine.

The rugged natural scenery is just beautiful, and

James assured us the whirlpool waves were perfect for

coasteering as they would soften our landing.

We scrambled around the jagged cliffs, passing

glistening rock pools and exploring inside sea caves. The

water was crystal clear and there was nobody in sight –

it was a chance to really let go and feel at one with the

elements. Living in the moment we gained in confidence

as we took on the higher adrenaline-fuelled jumps.

BritishTravelJournal.com 75



The rugged natural scenery is just

beautiful, and James assured us the

whirlpool waves were perfect for

coasteering as they would soften

our landing.


We stopped to admire the mock-Gothic castle built

upon Brecqhou, a small island opposite Sark’s west

coast with just the flowing water of Gouliot Passage and

one tiny islet between. Owned by the Barclay brothers,

identical-twin billionaires from England (sadly David,

the elder by ten minutes, passed away in 2021), the

private and remote island is complete with its own private

harbour and helipad.

Grandly situated in the middle is their mysterious

100-foot-high granite walled castle, with no less than 22

cannons. James tells us of the Barclays’ motto, Aut agere

aut mori meaning either do or die, famously inscribed in

the stonework over the entrance. Sark claims Brecqhou

as its own which is strongly refuted by the Barclay family,

who consider Brecqhou as their private property. They

drive cars and land helicopters on Brecqhou, both of

which are prohibited under the Sark law and so this has

caused upset with some of the locals.

We admired the views over Jethou and Herm, as well

as the larger island of Guernsey in the distance before

returning back onto the headland which is a blanket of

bluebells and primroses – a popular picnic spot and place

to sit and watch the sunset.

Next, we head back to the hotel in time to meet Helen

and Alex Magell. Helen’s parents, Jan and Rob Woolford

bought the hotel in 2009 before refurbishing and

reopening it as Stocks.

Helen and Alex live in a beautiful property adjacent to

Stocks Hotel, with access from the hotel gardens, which

they run as a B&B – Le Grand Dixcart. One of the original

Sark farmhouses it includes a very pretty stone cottage

with roses around the windows – sleeps six and has an

indoor pool and guest lounge, with bedrooms named

after Helen and Alex’s much-loved horses, Marmite,

Bagheera, Poddy, Molly, Minstrel, Beau, Ron and Willow.

Willow was ready to take us on a horse and carriage

ride with Helen at the helm. As we rode off Helen told us

how her grandparents had moved to Sark in 1972 and

how she would spend her summer holidays in Sark driving

horses and carriages. Her husband, Alex, originally hails

from Lancashire, and met and fell in love with Helen while

they both studied farming at Agricultural College in the

UK after which Helen introduced Alex to the delights

of Sark. Alex subsequently qualified as a Chartered

Accountant and Helen as a Teacher and they were thrilled

when they had the chance to move to Sark together with

their expanding family in 1999.

Helen and Alex share their passion for giving people a

true Sark welcome and helping them enjoy the beauty of

the island. Helen and Willow took us to see Sark's most

northerly point, stopping at L’Éperquerie Common.

We disembarked and explored the beautifully rugged

headland, discovering the Buddhist Rock Carving before

76 BritishTravelJournal.com


enjoying a picnic with views out to Bec du Nez. Known by

the locals as the Buddhist Carving or Monk's Stone, the

stunning granite rock was carved out for the Millennium

by a Tibetan Buddhist monk, who came over in 1999,

and went all over the island with a friend to find the best

spot to make his carving. The sacred Buddhist mantra is

translated into English, Behold – The jewel in the lotus.

On the ride back to the hotel Willow and Helen took us

through the centre of Sark village as Alex chatted away

pointing out interesting places including Sark’s Prison,

which is (probably) the smallest prison still in use in the

world. We also rode slowly past Le Moulin, Sark’s threestorey

windmill. Used as an observation tower during the

German occupation, it is situated on the highest point on

Sark (114 metres or 374 feet above sea level).

We later wandered through the village ourselves,

discovering yet more points of interest including the post

office full of souvenirs, Sark's only postbox (which in 2012

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: JESSICA AND FAMILY COASTEERING

WITH ADVENTURE SARK; LA SEIGNEURIE GARDENS; LE

MOULIN SARK’S THREE-STOREY WINDMILL; JESSICA, HELEN

AND HORSE WILLOW.

was painted gold to celebrate Carl Hester's role in Great

Britain's dressage team's gold medal), the village stores,

fashion boutiques, a stylish gift boutique, wine shop,

museum, bank and several pubs and cafés.

At only three miles long and a mile and a half wide

it doesn’t take long on a bike ride to stumble across yet

another of the Island's highlights, La Seigneurie Gardens,

the traditional residence of the Seigneur of Sark. It is

easy to lose yourself in the maze and wander among the

rose beds, flowers and plants sheltered by granite walls

– many of which would only survive under glass in other

parts of the British Isles. In the summer months, roses by

the leading grower David Austin are beautifully vibrant

and don’t miss the newly-planted vine house, or the

Chapel which tells the history of Sark’s Seigneurs and the

Seigneurie itself. Refuelling is made easy at the gorgeously

renovated 16th-century carriage house terrace café and

restaurant, Hathaway's.

BritishTravelJournal.com 77


CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: JESSICA AT SARK'S WINDOW IN THE

ROCK; LITTLE SARK'S VENUS POOL; CARAGH CHOCOLATES;

GIANT PINK CHAIR LEFT FROM THE SARK FOLK FESTIVAL;

GRANDE GRÈVE BAY SARK’S LARGEST SANDY BEACH.

DAY TWO

We woke up early to meet Sark’s new dairy farmer, Jason,

a prize-winning cattle breeder. He moved to Sark with his

wife Katherine from Suffolk where they have a farm and

cheese-making business. Locals and guests to the island

are welcome to watch or help Jason feed his herd, and we

were among the first guests to experience his brand new

milking parlour. Locals can now collect fresh milk here

every morning from a vending machine using re-usable

glass bottles. There is even a choice of flavours to add to

your milk, including chocolate, banana, raspberry and

toffee, for those with a sweet tooth.

Following another hearty breakfast back at the hotel

we headed out towards Little Sark in search of the Venus

Pool. Before walking across La Coupée (cycling is not

allowed) we stopped to admire Grande Grève Bay - Sark’s

largest sandy beach, surrounded by a 100-metre cliff with

There was just about time before our dinner reservation

for one last cycle stop and nature walk to the beautiful

pebble beach of Port du Moulin Bay where just a short

detour from the path above you will stumble across the

unmissable and awe-inspiring Window in the Rock. Seigneur

of Sark in the 1850s, Rev Collings blasted the Window in the

Rock into the cliffs above Port Du Moulin in order to frame

the view of Les Autelets – and what a fabulous job, it is an

absolutely stunning and picturesque spot.

A five-minute cycle ride from the Window in the Rock

is the new Captain’s Bar and Bon Marin Café. These are

located inside the Island Hall which is also the Community

Centre and Sark School (where there are around 30

students in total across all year groups). The evening we

visited there was live music and it was burger night, with

beef, chicken, fish, spicy bean and pulled pork on the

menu. Many of the locals had told us the chicken burgers

were unmissable so it was an easy choice all round – and

they didn’t disappoint.

78 BritishTravelJournal.com



The natural rock pool is filled with

shimmering deep turquoise water

inviting you in.


a steep path of steps (built by volunteers) to lead you

down. Sark’s natural rugged beauty intensifies as you

reach its most southern peninsula - Little Sark. Back

on our bikes, we cycled the floral paths, passing pretty

cottages, an ivy-covered windmill and lots of sheep.

There is a giant pink chair left following the Sark Folk

Festival. It makes a great resting place to look out over

the magnificent southern views towards the sea.

It was also a good sign we were on the right path

to the Venus Pool. As we got closer to the coastline

there were piles of rocks placed by locals that helped

us to find the right path down the cliff. I recommend

good footwear as it is quite a clamber down. Once at

sea-level head left and you will know when you have

found it. The natural rock pool is filled with shimmering

deep turquoise water inviting you in. The unpolluted

freshness of the coastal air makes the cold water

adventure even more enjoyable. I stayed in the water

for around 15 minutes, floating and dipping under a

few times. It was an incredibly tranquil experience (the

best time to visit is two hours on either side of low tide).

Our next stop on the Sark side of La Coupée was

to Caragh Chocolates Café for some of their utterly

delicious hand made chocolate, using the same fresh,

creamy milk we sampled that morning at the new dairy

farm. There is no shortage of chocolate inspiration

with every flavour you can imagine including Sark

cream and champagne, vanilla and tiramisu. We

ordered hot chocolate and hearing about our dip in

the Venus Pool, owner Caragh suggested I might like to

add a shot of rum to mine. Caragh’s also serve healthy

wraps and salads, ice creams, cake, soft drinks, beers

ciders and prosecco. There’s a beautiful garden, a

giant red tractor, and even an outdoor swimming pool.

Caragh also offers masterclasses where you can learn

how to make your own bars and hand-rolled truffles.

From Caragh Chocolates we referred to our map

and decided to make our way through Dixcart Valley

towards Sark Henge. We stopped at Dixcart Bay,

another of Sark’s sand and pebble beaches, and

BritishTravelJournal.com 79


THE PETWORTH PARK

ANTIQUES & FINE ART FAIR

In Partnership with 2Covet

Come and buy the very finest

art and antiques at our eighth

annual event of distinction

THE MARQUEE

PETWORTH PARK

PETWORTH

W. SUSSEX GU28 0QY

13-15 MAY 2022

Friday 11.00 - 18.00

Saturday 10.30 - 18.00

Sunday 10.30 - 17.00

To request a complimentary

invitation for three please

email BTJ@adfl.co.uk

01797 252030

For updates please visit

www.petworthparkfair.com

THE

ANTIQUES

DEALERS

FAIR

LIMITED

supported by


SARK HENGE BUILT IN 2015 TO COMMEMORATE THE 450 YEAR

ANNIVERSARY OF QUEEN ELIZABETH I GRANTING THE FIEF OF

SARK TO HELIER DE CARTERET, SEIGNEUR OF ST OUEN.

enjoyed exploring inside the giant natural arch rock formation

which framed the sea, reminding us of a Lord of the Rings film

set. We got back on the path, found ourselves a little lost in

Hog’s Back Headland before eventually finding the right path

up high above Derrible Bay where the sun was beginning to set.

Sark Henge with its coastal views out to sea looked wonderful,

golden hour set in and we just sat and marvelled at the views.

We enjoyed a delicious dinner back at the hotel. Feeling

sad it was our last night at Stocks Hotel we stood in awe

once more at the glistening bright stars feeling grateful for

the magic we had found on this beautiful and charming

little island. Sark is all about the simple life and enjoying

nature. With so much fresh air and exercise during the day,

and so little digital stimulation I have never slept so well. It is

no surprise that Sark has been the inspiration of artists and

writers for centuries. It is the perfect destination for a family

adventure, an uplifting health break or a romantic break

for two. No matter which type of holiday you choose, to

experience Sark is worth its entire island weight in gold.

Prices start from £94.50 per person per night, bed and

breakfast during the spring and autumn. Pre-book the new

Stocks Dining Package option for 10% discount off all lunches,

dinners and drinks at Stocks Hotel. Furthermore, stay for 4

nights or longer and Stocks Hotel will refund your Guernsey-

Sark return ferry fare with the Isle of Sark Shipping Company.

stockshotel.com

TOP TIPS FOR VISITING SARK


Getting to Sark is part of the adventure

Flying with Aurigny from Southampton to

Guernsey takes just 45-minutes, jump in a

taxi taking 15-minutes from the airport to

St Peter Port followed by a 45-minute boat

ride over to Sark (tickets are available from

the Isle of Sark Shipping Company). Plus,

pop into Sark Visitor Centre for information

about local events, maps, walks and leaflets.

Take some time to explore Guernsey

between your transfers

We left our luggage in the hold at St Peter

Port and walked 10 minutes to Castle Cornet

to watch the noonday gun. For lunch, stop

in at Crêpe Maison for Crêpes Suzette and

Rocquette Cider.

Be sure to have some money for the

passenger tractor bus. On arrival at Sark

buses takes passengers and their luggage

up the rather steep hill. It is only a couple of

quid but they will only accept cash.

Stay at Stocks Hotel

Everything is looked after for you as a guest

of Stocks. On arrival your luggage is whisked

away and transported to your hotel for you,

enabling you to start your holiday from the

moment you arrive on the island.

Bike hire is essential for adventurers

We collected ours from A to B Cycles in

Mermaid Lane just a short walk from where

the tractor bus drops you on the Avenue at

the centre of the Island.

Remember to take head torches

With no street lights and many dangerous

cliffs you will be grateful for them when you

are still exploring in the evening under the

bright stars.

BritishTravelJournal.com 81


NOTTINGHAM

Nottingham is a city long associated with Robin Hood – but Britain’s

largest small city is packed with much more than just legends and it’s

waiting to welcome you back safely.

The city of Nottingham has had a longstanding

association with Britain’s most famous outlaw,

Robin Hood. The legend tells of a man who

robbed from the rich and gave to the poor, a

real rebel hero throughout the ages. It’s this exciting spirit

that lives on in Nottingham; there’s so much packed into

this small city that it’s bursting with culture, history and

surprises around every corner.

Nottingham is one of the UK’s most historical cities,

where you can experience 1,000 years of history in

ancient castles, stop for a pint or two at some of the

country’s oldest inns and pubs, as well as exploring the

hidden caves that twist and turn beneath the city streets.

Being a small city, Nottingham is also easy to explore

on foot and benefits from an award-winning tram

system. However, don’t let its small size deceive you,

Nottingham is a city with a truly vibrant music and arts

scene, with internationally-acclaimed galleries and

82 BritishTravelJournal.com


PROMOTION

IMAGES © CLARE JONES / LIYUAN LIU / VISIT NOTTINGHAMSHIRE

“... don’t let its small size deceive

you, Nottingham is a city with a

truly vibrant music and arts scene.


music venues standing testament to this. The Hockley area

of the city, just off the historic Lace Market (once the lace

making capital of the world), is home to some incredible

independent venues, with great places to eat and explore if

you fancy something with a more alternative feel.

Businesses in retail and hospitality have also worked

tirelessly to ensure Nottingham has been able to welcome

visitors back safely. From working with Visit England’s

We’re Good to Go! scheme, to supporting one-way systems

throughout the city centre, Nottingham’s tourism, hospitality

and retail offering has worked hard to ensure Nottingham

remains a safe destination to visit.

Nottingham is also blessed with stunning architecture,

the home of Watson Fothergill, famed for his use of

contrasting red and blue bricks as well as elaborate turrets

on buildings. Much of Nottingham’s grand and aweinspiring

Lace Market was designed in this style and is a

must visit for those interested in city architecture.

Those wishing to visit Nottingham will have no trouble

finding somewhere to stay, with charming boutique hotels

right throughout the city, there’s something to suit all tastes.

Whether you’re looking for high end hotels or something a

little more private, visitors are spoiled for choice.

Nottingham is also famous for a strong culinary scene.

With cuisines from all four corners of the globe and awardwinning

restaurants in no short supply, you can enjoy an

epicurean adventure right in the heart of England.

There’s also something for lovers of sport. The city has a

fine sporting pedigree, with two of England’s oldest football

clubs and one of the world’s most iconic cricket grounds all

within a short walk of one another. Visitors are able to soak

up some of the best sporting atmospheres found anywhere

in the UK. ◆

Nottingham is a city that’s truly buzzing with life,

with new experiences waiting around every corner – and

it’s waiting to be discovered. To plan your next trip to

Nottingham: visit-nottinghamshire.co.uk

BritishTravelJournal.com 83


WELCOME BACK

TO NOTTINGHAM!

Visit Nottingham and take

a journey to the heart of England

Walk in the footsteps of the famous legend Robin Hood in a city that’s

full of surprises. The UK’s biggest small city that’s easy to explore on

foot, stumble across hidden bars and restaurants. Visit Nottingham’s

independent shops and soak in the famous Watson Fothergill

architecture. Stop for a drink at England’s oldest inn and experience

a thousand years of history at Nottingham Castle, fresh from a £30

million makeover. A city that’s buzzing with life, with new experiences

around every corner – waiting to be discovered.

PLAN YOUR NEXT STAY AT VISIT-NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.CO.UK

Funded by the European Regional Development Fund and HM Government

as part of the Welcome Back Fund:

84 BritishTravelJournal.com

IMAGE: TRACEY WHITEFOOT AND NOTTINGHAM CASTLE TRUST

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INTERVIEW WITH JOHN HITCHCOX

THE LAKES

BY YOO

Getting away from it all is paramount to our wellbeing.

Showing this to be true, is this exclusive Cotswolds

retreat that is currently a sanctuary to over one hundred

families. John Hitchcox tells us about his vision for this

very special countryside estate and the stylish new

lakeside cabins and apartments.

Text by Jessica Way

86 BritishTravelJournal.com


CLOCKWISE

FROM LEFT:

NEW LAKESIDE

CABINS; INFINITY

POOL AT THE

NEW LAKESIDE

APARTMENTS;

JESSICA CHATS

TO CEO JOHN

HITCHCOX.

One more visit to The Lakes

by Yoo is never enough.

This private-gated 900-

acre countryside retreat is

designed to feel so much

like home, you never want to leave – and

when you do, you are left eager to return.

It was a concept developed way ahead

of its time, dreamt up by successful

property entrepreneur John Hitchcox,

while living in London and imagining a

better upbringing for his kids, “I was a

total urbanite, but I wanted the kids to be

brought up in the country – somewhere

they could play outside, explore woodland,

go sailing and more.”

This heavenly oasis is designed as a

bolthole to come back to, with many

residents owning properties as lifestyle

investments. There’s a warm village

community where property owners and

rental guests alike are made to feel

extremely welcome in a reassuring and

peaceful setting for contemporary modern

living. Just as John had hoped, it is “a place

parents can come with their children, at

weekends and during school holidays,

picking up as much country living as they

can, while still enjoying the benefits of a

life in London too”. During the late 1990’s

John co-founded Yoo (the property design

company behind The Lakes by Yoo) with

Philippe Starck, known by many as the

world’s most talented designer.

“Over the years I have worked with

many world class designers, mostly notably

my business partner Philippe. Above all,

we are always looking to do something

that is different to everyone else.” This was

back in 1999 – and what a vicennium it

has been, the property dream team have

stopped at nothing, pulling out all the

stops, and achieving so much.

Yet, here we are in 2022, more than

twenty years later, and another exciting

chapter to the story is just beginning to

unfold – with the Lakes by Yoo first-ever

lakeside cabins and apartments.

Interior design masterpieces, 4-6

bedroom homes, are dotted about the

glorious parkland lakes, woods and

meadows. (Prices for these homes range

between £2m and £7m, with many

available for rental costing between

£12,000 and £40,000 per week). The

lakeside cabins and apartments, however,

are first-time smaller properties have been

designed on the estate and they are

BritishTravelJournal.com 87


available to rent from ​£1,000 per

night – or to buy from £1.1 million.

Available in a range of layouts and

styles, each property at the Lakes is

bespoke. “We make sure each property

blends in with the scenery, so it feels

harmonious,” John explains. “And we

insist on using entirely local materials –

larch from local farms, Cotswold stone,

for instance.”

Staying overnight with my family

in the first finished cabin was

an absolute delight. Inside is as

breathtakingly beautiful as the lakes

on the outside, decorated using a rich

and earthy colour palette of burnt

reds, chocolates and ochres.

There are deep velvet armchairs,

eclectic artwork and vintage

ornaments, double-height open plan

living with a glazed frontage that

floods the room with natural light, and

a spacious outdoor entertaining deck.

We were especially impressed

by the bespoke and convenient

folding kitchenette – which can be

concealed when not in use. There’s

a wood burner that sits in front of a

beautiful stone wall extending into

the double height living area, and

lots of local materials including tonal

timbers and statement pendant

lighting, handwoven in willow by

local craftsmen. Even the beds

and mattresses are handmade in

Devon using natural fibres from a

sustainable resource.

And it is not just the

accommodation offering that has

benefited from a huge investment.

Over the past decade the team

have taken what was previously a

barren 850-acre gravel pit expanse

to a beautiful, secluded setting,

complete with a wealth of natural

wildlife and stunning scenery. At

the heart of John Hitchcox’s vision is

the creation of a conservation park

to reinvest in the countryside which

included the planting of 500,000

new trees, multiple new lakes, and

woodland habitats. There is also

a farm with livestock, chickens

and market garden, as well as

beehives and a whole range of other

sustainable and ecological initiatives.

“Sustainability is at the heart of

everything we do across the Yoo

Group, which is why we even have the

company Yoo Energy, dedicated to

alternative energy such as wind farms

and other sources.”

It is no surprise that the exclusive

resort is a firm-favourite with many

celebrity and VIP guests, with Simon

le Bon, Kate Moss and Jade Jagger

among John’s closest friends. “You

could call it entirely selfish, but I tend

to build things that I love. With regard

to the Lakes, my vision was to create

a beautiful estate for my children.

Ironically, by the time it was ready,

my eldest had grown up and fled the

nest, but seeing other families and

children enjoying the estate still made

me incredibly happy”.

Within easy walking distance of

the new cabins and apartments is

the Orchard Spa, a glorious 17 metre

heated pool, sauna, steamroom and

jacuzzi and therapists for indulgent

treatments. There is also the on-site

tepee restaurant, Lynwood Café, a

much-loved part of the estate serving

a range of food and drink, from

cappuccinos to café eats. Most weeks

they have special guest food and

drink visits. Throughout the summer

they have pit and fire night serving

flamed grills to residents three times

a week. Plans are also underway

to create a larger restaurant and

clubhouse to suit the increasing needs

of residents and guests.

All the produce from the farm as

well as eggs and honey are offered

on a complimentary basis to all

residents. There are numerous on-site

activities including paddle boarding,

zip wiring, yoga, fishing, canoeing,

kayaking and bike hire.

The resort even boasts its own

resident Bear Grylls, Angus, who

looks after the maintenance of the

lakes while keeping the youngest

guests (and the young at heart)

enthused, entertained and safe

during activities. We first met Angus

during our experience on the Zip

Wire across Warrens Cross Lake.

His assurance was most welcomed,

especially during the ‘leap of faith’

descent from the top ledge of the

climbing wall.

There’s lots to keep little Lakes’

explorers entertained too – in

addition to a Kids Club with Sharky

and George, they have a packed

schedule of fun including workshops

in pizza making, martial arts, fairy

princess crown making, and den

building. Tennis coaching classes,

rugby training and football training

are also available to book.

“Everyone feels like they’re part

of things here. We wanted to build

a community and have residents

be part of those things they care

about. And that’s what we’ve got

here – a group of like-minded people,

most are from London, but with an

international flair. Now our residents

88 BritishTravelJournal.com


THE LAKES BY

YOO, THE MOST

EXCLUSIVE

LAKESIDE ESTATE

IN ENGLAND.


Typically, a day at The Lakes involves family. We are up bright and early for a

quick cappuccino, then out on the canoes, lunch on the BBQ... biking or sailing for

the afternoon and either an outdoor movie or a walk by the river in the evening.


all know each other, and they

appreciate that – they know what it’s

like to be in a new country and start

again with the social life.”

During our stay, the Lakes Art Park

had just launched at the estate, housing

the artworks Your Dog and GONE by

Yoshitomo Nara and KAWS. The idea

behind the Lakes Art Park is for the

Lakes to showcase work by some of

the world’s finest artists and sculptors

and provide a cultural extension for

residents and visitors. “It has long been

our vision to champion immersive and

enriching new experiences. We are

thrilled to be partnering with artistic

talent from around the world to

enhance the cultural and educational

experience for families and young

people on the estate.”

“For me it’s all about the creative

use of space, whether that be a

vertical village in Panama, this private

estate in the Cotswolds or even

our redevelopment of Olympia in

London. It’s all about bringing new

ideas and innovation to the concept”.

Just another one of John’s impressive

projects of the moment…

“I am so excited about Olympia.

We really are re-imagining and

restoring one of Britain’s greatest

landmarks for the 21st century.

Construction is well under way, and

we cannot wait to introduce it to the

public in a couple of years.”

I asked John how he likes to spend

his time at the Lakes. “Typically, a day

at The Lakes involves family. We are up

bright and early for a quick cappuccino,

then out on the canoes, lunch on the

BBQ. It’s then often a choice between

biking or sailing for the afternoon and

either an outdoor movie or a walk by

the river in the evening”. We agreed,

one silver lining from Covid-19 has been

the awakening to our family time and

health with nothing more important

than our experiences and memories.

I don’t think John could have planned

better timing for the lakeside cabins and

apartments to launch.

I was also curious to find some

insider knowledge, asking John where

on the estate he likes to be the most –

and if he has any favourite hideouts.

“We are lucky to have 950 acres and

many of us have our own favourite

secret places. I shouldn’t tell you

mine, but we sometimes take an old

Land Rover down to the far end of the

river for a picnic. It always amazes

me that however many families are

visiting the estate, it never feels busy”.

There’s no question that it is John’s

children who are to thank for his

overall motivation.

As we left waving goodbye, John

and his four-year old son Marley rode

past us on their bikes smiling back.

John’s idea for creating memories with

a taste of the countryside for those

desperate to escape the everyday of

London has not only been realised,

John himself is now benefiting from

his own vision and dream.

thelakesbyyoo.com

BritishTravelJournal.com 89


10 OF THE BEST

AFTERNOON

TEAS

There is nothing quite like sitting down for

afternoon tea, the warming tea blends, sweet

and savoury treats. In a year that celebrates Her

Majesty becoming the first British Monarch to

reach the Platinum Jubilee milestone of 70 years

of service, there is even more reason to indulge

in a spot of tea or raise your champagne glass.

With celebrations happening up and down the

country, why not commemorate the jubilee in

some of these amazing locations? Whatever your

mood, we bring you some of the most beautiful

places to savour every sip and scone…

Text by Tallulah Rushaya

90 BritishTravelJournal.com


1

BEST FOR FEELING AT HOME

Dubbed ‘Mayfair’s best sitting room’ The

Promenade, at The Dorchester, on Park

Lane, will make you feel like a star, with the

atmosphere created by the friendly and

attentive Dorchester staff to match. With grand

Corinthian marble columns, gold adorning

both sides and quilted chesterfield sofas to

recline into, it is the perfect place to allow the

hours pass by. Guests will be treated to the

sight of masterful bouquets created by florist

Philip Hammond, featuring The Dorchester

Rose from Meijer Roses of Holland, that arrived

in 2020, and was seven years in the making.

There is a resident pianist playing from an

extremely broad repertoire, including film

classics, and theatre, for you to sway along to.

The Dorchester’s Afternoon Tea is a true blend

of East meets West, you will be able to enjoy a

range of savoury finger sandwiches on artisan

bread, using the best of English produce, with

tea fusions taking you on a sensory journey.

Starts from £80 per person,

dorchestercollection.com

BritishTravelJournal.com 91


2

BEST FOR PANORAMIC

VIEWS

Take in the lavish surroundings of the

Berkshire countryside, overlooking

the landscape and the beautiful

gardens of Cliveden. Served in The

Cliveden Dining Room Monday to

Saturday and in the distinguished

décor of The Great Hall on Sundays,

wherever you are, you will be

surrounded by period beauty. Guests

can feel like royalty with the Platinum

Jubilee Afternoon Tea, curated by

Executive Chef, Chris Hannon,

that consists of favourite dishes

from England, Scotland, Wales

and Ireland. A perfectly prepared

selection of finger sandwiches,

freshly baked scones with homemade

jam and clotted cream, miniature

delectable bite-size cakes, and

delicacies including Queen Elizabeth’s

favourite, chocolate biscuit cake. For

something slightly more extravagant,

the Champagne Platinum Jubilee

Afternoon Tea includes a glass of

Laurent-Perrier with your classic

afternoon tea experience.

Starts from £45 per person,

clivedenhouse.co.uk

3

BEST FOR BEING SPOILT

FOR CHOICE

Famed for their delectable Fat

Rascals, that brings visitors from

both near and far, Bettys will leave

you spoilt for choice. With the option

of five heavenly tea rooms across

God’s own county, Yorkshire, the two

biggest tea rooms being in Harrogate

and York, Bettys is truly an institution.

Served in the Imperial Room in Bettys

Harrogate, and the Belmont Room

in York, you will be transported to a

bygone era, within the atmospheric

art deco interior, inspired by the

Queen Mary ocean liner. Available

are an ever changing range of treats,

for the seasons, with afternoon

tea classics such as scones. Some

elements are reimagined such as

coronation Yorkshire chicken. There

are vegetarian, vegan afternoon teas

too, as well as Pink Champagne and

Prosecco Afternoon Tea, if you are

in a celebratory mood. We did say

you would be spoilt for choice! For

the Queen’s 70th Jubilee year, Bettys

Bakery have crafted a wide range of

Jubilee inspired treats, fit for royalty,

to enjoy anywhere, including Jubilee

Champagne Macaroons, Jubilee

Chocolate Teapot, a new Dundee

Cake presented in a keepsake tin and

a Jubilee Gift Box with Corgi biscuits.

Starts from £28.95 per person,

bettys.co.uk

92 BritishTravelJournal.com


4

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: BETTYS JUBILEE AFTERNOON TEA;

THE ROYAL CRESCENT’S JUBILEE AFTERNOON TEA AND GARDEN

PARTY; CLIVEDEN HOUSE'S CHAMPAGNE PLATINUM JUBILEE

AFTERNOON TEA.

BEST FOR ARCHITECTURE

APPRECIATORS

Situated in the heart of the Grade I

Listed Royal Crescent in the historical

city of Bath, The Royal Crescent

Hotel and Spa is a fine example

of sweeping, curved 250-year-old

Georgian architecture, overlooking

the perfectly manicured lawn of

the Royal Victoria Park. In their

award-winning restaurant, The

Dower House, you can indulge in a

piece of the Bridgerton experience,

as the façade of the Royal Crescent

served as a filming location for

the Netflix show. With the finest

selection of aromatic flavours from

Ronnefeldt Teas, with a diverse range

from Golden Assam to Rooibos to

accompany your Royal Crescent

Classic or Vegetarian Afternoon Tea,

you can converse freely, without the

worry of later being the subject of

Lady Whistledown’s revelations. For

the Jubilee, guests are invited to The

Royal Crescent’s Jubilee Garden Party

on the Thursday to commence the

June Bank Holiday celebrations. Also

available, the chance to dine like a

Queen with their Jubilee Joy package,

including a two-night stay in either

a luxurious room or suite, a special

Jubilee-themed cocktail, a six course

tasting menu on one night of your

stay and champagne afternoon tea

on one afternoon during your stay.

Starts from £39.50 per person.

Jubilee Joy package: prices starts from

£530 per room per night, in a Deluxe

double room, based on a two-night

package (Wednesday 1st June until

Monday 6th June), royalcrescent.co.uk

BritishTravelJournal.com 93


5

BEST FOR ART

AFICIONADOS

If you know your Matisse from your

Picasso, or generally have a keen eye

for art, look no further than Sketch.

Composed of four restaurants, one

with three Michelin Stars, Sketch

is akin to an Alice in Wonderland of

culinary adventure. The Gallery

Room, where afternoon tea is hosted,

is adorned with a millennial pink

backdrop created by designer India

Mahdavi. It has hosted work by a

range of artists, including Tracey

Emin and David Shrigley, and is the

perfect place to sink into the comfort

of the sumptuous scallop-shaped

seats, while snapping photos for

your Instagram. Sketch has exclusive

seasonal menus for Mother’s Day

from 25–28 March and Easter from

15–18 April. A French spin on the

British tradition, your tastebuds will

be revolutionised, with potential

offerings of bergamot macaroon and

truffle brioche bun sandwiches.

Starts from £69 per person,

sketch.london

6

BEST FOR A FAMILY DAY OUT

Although Goodwood is the location

for the Festival of Speed, there will be

no rush taking afternoon tea here. In

fact, there is so much time, you can

actually take a tour of Goodwood

House and have afternoon tea.

Set within a glorious 12,000-acre

Sussex estate within the South Downs

National Park, Goodwood is one

for the countryside dwellers. After

walking through the magnificent

Front Hall to the Ballroom where

tea is taken, surrounded by one of

the finest art collections in Britain,

it will be hard to leave without the

tour. Goodwood’s afternoon tea

uses organic estate grown and

reared produce, which is available

in the Farm Shop to bring a piece of

Goodwood home. There is the Adult

Tea, including Goodwood Ale Fruit

Cake, and Passionfruit & Raspberry

tarts, with generous portions,

leaving nearly all with a slice to take

away. The Children’s Tea can satisfy

the fussiest of eaters, with lemon

meringue tartlets and chocolate

brownies, just to a name a few.

Afternoon Tea & Tour of Goodwood

House is £29 per person (adults) or

£10 per person for 4-12 year olds,

goodwood.com

94 BritishTravelJournal.com


7

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: AFTERNOON TEA IN

THE BALLROOM, GOODWOOD; AFTERNOON TEA

IN THE DRAWING ROOM, DUKES HOTEL;

AFTERNOON TEA, SKETCH.

BEST FOR LUXURY

A stone’s throw away from royal

haunts such as St James’s Palace,

and of course Buckingham Palace,

Dukes offers a selection of traditional

sandwiches, handmade patisseries,

fruit and plain scones, plus 'cake

of the day', all freshly baked by the

in-house Pastry Chef. The Drawing

Room sets the scene, overlooking a

tranquil courtyard garden. Dukes

London has partnered with The East

India Company to offer a range of

delicious, aromatic and refreshing

fine loose-leaf teas and infusions.

They also offer a special MarTEAni

Afternoon Tea, to celebrate the

hotel's legendary martinis at Dukes

Bar where James Bond’s creator Ian

Fleming, a frequent visitor, sought

inspiration for the character’s

favourite drink. Vegan options are

offered as well as a Little Dukes and

Duchesses Afternoon Tea, for the

little ones in your life. A unique Jubilee

Package is available, with a stay in

their Junior or One Bedroom Suite.

You can be treated to champagne

in your suite on arrival, English

Breakfast served in either their Great

British Restaurant or the comfort of

your suite, a Jubilee afternoon tea

served in The Drawing Room and a

classic Jubilee picnic to enjoy in the

royal parks in addition to access to

hotel’s health club and Dukes Bar.

Starts from £35 per person, for the

Jubilee Package a Junior Suite the daily

rate is £960 and for a One Bedroom

Suite, the daily rate is £1,050, packaged

based on a minimum two night stay for

two guests, dukeshotel.com

BritishTravelJournal.com 95


8

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: THE

GORING DINING ROOM; SUPERBLOOM

TOWER OF LONDON; AFTERNOON TEA

AT THE SAVOY HOTEL.

BEST FOR VINTAGE

LOVERS

Surrounded by the romanticism of

antique shops on Kensington Church

Street, evoking a Richard Curtis

film ambience, is the Candella Tea

Room. Its interior reflects charm,

with a range of vintage tea ware,

and painted panels. The Candella’s

Afternoon Tea has a choice of

traditional sandwich fillings, with

subtle modern twists, such as freerange

egg mayonnaise and chives

brioche bun. With freshly made

scones, you can opt for the classic

plain and raisin scone or explore

lemon and blueberry or chocolate

orange scones. There is also a choice

of a Contemporary Afternoon Tea

selection. To satisfy your sweet

cravings, Candella has an extensive

list of popular tea blends such as

Lady Grey, a black Ceylon tea with

sun ripened orange peel and Thai

lemongrass, and bergamot oil.

From mango mousse, encased in an

almond cake sponge, to pistachio

opera gateau and bite sized

macaroons in flavours including Earl

Grey. With so much to try, why not

buy a blend to take home from the

tea shop?

Starts from £18.95 per person,

candellatearoom.com

9

BEST FOR ELEGANCE AND

TRADITION

Guests have been gracing the

Thames Foyer, enjoying the

world-famous afternoon tea at

The Savoy, since it opened in 1889,

honouring the British tradition of

afternoon tea that stretches back

to 1840. The Savoy is the perfect

spot to be enchanted by London’s

thoroughfare of the bustling Strand,

balanced by the calm of the River

Thames. Home to the concept of the

dinner-dance, The Savoy’s afternoon

tea extends itself to introduce a

sociable and warm atmosphere into

your experience. An enchanting

glass-domed atrium, with an ornate

stained-glass cupola, allows you to

bask in the natural light from above,

where below is the enchanting cast

metal gazebo, housing a grand

piano. Each menu has been highly

curated for you to experience a range

of flavours, with patisseries that are

described as tempting works of art.

Starts from £65 per person,

thesavoylondon.com

96 BritishTravelJournal.com


10

BEST FOR SUNNY DAYS

Trace back history with The Goring,

where Queen Elizabeth held her

Coronation dinner in 1953. The

Grade I listed hotel is a firm Royal

favourite. Within walking distance

of Buckingham Palace, to celebrate

the Platinum Jubilee, there cannot

be a more suitable venue to enjoy

any day of the week. There is lots to

look forward to, including a Platinum

Jubilee Afternoon Tea, which will

include sandwiches such as Clarence

Court egg and cress and Smoked

John Ross salmon with caper and

lemon to name a few. There will also

be a special recreation of The Queen’s

Coronation Menu dinner, which will

see dishes such as Cornet de Saumon

Fumé. Other treats include a Jubilee

Fizz champagne cocktail by barman

extraordinaire Tiago Mira. For those

more horticulturally inclined, there

will be a chance to admire a garden

installation of The Queen Elizabeth II

Rose by the award-winning Harkness

Roses, and a Royal dressing up box

for the little ones who can see the

return of Teddy the Shetland Pony.

Starts from £60 per person,

thegoringhotel.com

MORE WAYS TO CELEBRATE

THE QUEEN’S JUBILEE


Superbloom Tower of London

In celebration of the Queen’s Platinum

Jubileee between 1 June–18 September 2022

you can slide into 20 million new blooms in

the Tower of London’s moat.

Buckingham Palace and Royal Mews

London will be abuzz with things to do and

places to see. Buckingham Palace is

re-opening its State Rooms in July, while the

Royal Mews, with its coaches, carriages and

stables, will unlock its doors in May – plus,

don't miss the Gold State Coach used by the

Queen for her coronation in 1953.

Four day UK bank holiday weekend

The festivities and fanfare will come to a

head on one weekend: 2–5 June 2022, with

pomp and pageantry and a Thanksgiving

service at St Paul’s Cathedral.

The Queen’s Birthday Parade (Trooping

the Colour) Over 1,400 parading soldiers,

200 horses and 400 musicians will come

together in the traditional Parade to mark

The Queen's official birthday, usually held

on the second Saturday in June.

BritishTravelJournal.com 97


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We're reading...

ACROSS

9 In abundance (1,4)

10 Tracking every penny (2,1,6)

11 Knock on the door (3-1-3)

12 "Lady of the Lake" loch (7)

13 Sinatra confused a skilled

worker (7)

14 Cotswold garden (7)

15 Forerunners of garages (5,6)

19 Feature of the law (4,3)

21 Pungent cleanser (7)

23 North Devon retreat (7)

25 Venture to express (4,3)

26 Resort near St. Ives (6,3)

27 Gorge in 16 Down (5)

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1 Northern English wall-builder (7)

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3 Site of "Mary Rose" sinking (8)

4 A notorious Sheriff's stamping

ground (10)

5 It has a Seigneur and no cars (4)

6 Disembowelled or disappointed (6)

7 Lighters (8)

8 Said (7)

14 Oh - need okay badly on clothes

(4,3,3)

15 Croutons distributed on maps (8)

16 Home of the Levels (8)

17 Behave insincerely (4-3)

18 Sail raiser (7)

20 Sizewell energy type (6)

22 Decisive Civil War battle site (6)

24 Collars (4)

Stay Curious: Published by festival owners and clothing brand entrepreneurs

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A gritty, moving and timely account of one man’s journey around Britain

at a time of personal and public crisis, £16.99, summersdale.com | Spring

Tides: A beautiful memoir of the sea, island life, and a battle to preserve the

marine habitats and ecosystem of the Isle of Man, £14.99, orionbooks.co.uk

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ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 10 | AUTUMN/WINTER 2021

ACROSS: 1 Cardiff 5 Hidcote 9 Blithe 10 Swimming 11 Michelin

12 Durham 13 Persuasion 16 Demi 17 Yoga 19 Shuttle bus 21 Class B

23 Longleat 25 Cerebrum 26 Oxford 27 Adelphi 28 Bedside

DOWN: 2 All-time 3 Dutch 4 Freeloads 6 Ivied 7 Cambridge

8 Tone arm 10 Sunni Muslim 14 St Austell 15 Net income 18 Oilseed

20 Unaired 22 Burgh 24 Lifts

98 BritishTravelJournal.com


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