Falstaff Magazin International Nr. 1/2022

mar-jun 2022 

WINE FOOD TRAVEL 

CALIFORNIA 

WINES TO RIVAL 

THE WORLD 

BEST BEACHES 

AROUND 

THE GLOBE 

PERU 

CEVICHE 

NIKKEI & CO. 

99 

Discover & 

REDISCOVER: THE JOY OF SEEING THINGS AFRESH 

01/2022 

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99

ROGER SEATING SYSTEM | RODOLFO DORDONI DESIGN 

SUPERQUADRA COFFEE TABLE | MARCIO KOGAN / STUDIO MK27 DESIGN 

DISCOVER MORE AT MINOTTI.COM/ROGER

THE SWEETEST 

MOUNTAINS HERE 

ARE CALLED NOCKERL

FESTIVAL OF 

ALPINE CUISINE 

19th September 2022 

Zell am See-Kaprun 

A CULINARY JOURNEY TRACING 

ALPINE CUISINE IN SALZBURGERLAND. 

On a culinary journey through SalzburgerLand, every day you will 

experience exciting chefs, innkeepers, producers, culinary artisans 

and alpine farmers. There will be plenty of cooking, storytelling, 

hiking and fine dining. And not to be missed is the sweet Alpine 

cuisine classic – the world-famous Salzburger Nockerl. 

WWW.SALZBURGERLAND.COM | #VIACULINARIA

SCHRAMM ORIGINS COMPLETE Juna – Design Sebastian Herkner 

Handmade in Germany 

schramm-werkstaetten.com

EDITORIAL FALSTAFF 

INTERNATIONAL 

WELCOME 

DEAR READERS! 

I 

t is hard to believe that this already is our third issue – the second in 

print! Kind readers sent us pictures of Falstaff on display in New York 

City, Stockholm and Tuscany – please do keep them coming! Now that 

you hold our spring issue in your hands, we are pleased to tell you that it is as 

jam-packed as ever, covering the three topics that are closest to our hearts: 

wine, food and travel. 

We have just put the cold and dark months of winter behind us, at least in 

the northern hemisphere, and are looking forward to entering the most hopeful 

and optimistic time of the year when everything launches back into life. 

WOLFGANG M. ROSAM 

Publisher 

wolfgang.rosam@falstaff.com 

@RosamWolfgang 

Appropriately, we have chosen a theme of ‘Discovery and Rediscovery’ for 

this issue. Yes, we are full of curiosity, eager to discover new things, to strike 

out and experience what is new, even in places that we thought we knew 

already. We take you to California, South Africa and Bordeaux, to Peru and 

Manhattan, shine a light on goat’s cheeses and coffee before presenting the 

world’s best beaches and toasting you with mezcal. 

We hope you will find much to discover and rediscover, it is part of our 

mission to keep you curious, excited and hungry for all this world has to offer. 

Here’s to you, 

ANNE KREBIEHL MW 

Editor-in-Chief 

anne.krebiehl@falstaff.com 

@Anneinvino 

Photos: Rudi Froese, Steve Morris 

WOLFGANG M. ROSAM 

Publisher 


Editor-in-Chief 

mar – jun 2022 

falstaff 

9

INTERNATIONAL 

MAR – JUN 

2022 

FALSTAFF SCORES & KEY TO SYMBOLS 

CONTRIBUTORS 

WINE TASTING & SCORES 

Falstaff scores wines according to the 100-point scale. 

Falstaff tasters also write detailed tasting notes for each wine, putting the score into 

context. 

All wines are tasted, described and scored by our Falstaff wine editors or authors 

contributing to this issue. Each editor, and their respective tasting teams, are 

internationally recognised specialists for their regions. Where tastings by more than 

one taster are presented in the same feature, the taster’s initials are shown. 

International 

Anne Krebiehl MW (AK) 

Austria, Bordeaux, Fortified Wines Peter Moser (PM) 

Germany, Bordeaux, Burgundy Dr Ulrich Sautter (US) 

Italy 

Othmar Kiem, Simon Staffler (OK, SS) 

Switzerland, Spain and Portugal Benjamin Herzog, Dominik Vombach (BH, DV) 

The Scores 

95 – 100 absolute classic 

93 – 94 outstanding 

91 – 92 excellent 

88 – 90 very good 

85 – 87 commended 

• 

••••• 

Up to € 15 / US$ 30 

€ 16-30 / US$ 20-35 

€ 31-50 / US$ 36-60 

€ 51-100 / US$ 61-110 

€ 100+ / US$ 110+ 

WINE PRICE CATEGORIES 

We divide wines into five different price categories, 

symbolised by coins.These are based on cellar door 

and recommended retail prices. 

We regret that import taxes and excise duties of 

specific countries cannot be reflected here, 

nonetheless the categories should still provide a 

useful guideline about a wine’s retail price. 

Angelika Ahrens is an Austrian journalist 

and foreign correspondent who lives in 

New York. 

Lily Cook feels most at home in her 

kitchen where she composes her Jottings. 

Roland Graf’s standard description of his 

profession is “drinking and writing about it.” 

Othmar Kiem is Falstaff’s chief wine 

editor for Italy. He writes about Chianti 

Classico and the wine route between 

Florence & Siena. 

Katherine Knowles is a long-term 

Manhattan resident who loves nothing 

more than sniffing out new restaurants. 

Malu Lambert is a Cape Town-based food 

and wine writer who explores South 

Africa’s single vineyards. 

Robin Lee writes about the rarified world 

of Harry’s Bar in Venice. 

Susan Low is a UK-based food writer and 

editor who takes us on a culinary journey 

to Peru. 

Hans Mahr is our peripatetic restaurant 

obsessive, addicted to ordering everything 

on the menu. 

Sarah Marshall is a seasoned globetrotter 

and travel writer who dives headfirst into 

Morocco’s sensuous delights. 

Peter Moser, Falstaff’s chief wine editor 

for Austria and Bordeaux, rates the 2019 

Bordeaux vintage and tastes Grüner 

Veltliner. 

Julia Nittmann is a Vienna-based nutritional 

psychologist who examines exotic 

flavours in this issue. 

Ned Palmer is an renowned cheese author 

He unearths all you need to know about 

goat’s cheese. 

Peter Pharos moonlights as a wine writer 

and is the mystery man behind our Lighthouse 

column. 

Rex Pickett is the author of Sideways 

which was turned into a movie of the same 

name. He writes a regular column. 

Gabriel Stone is a wine writer, entertainer, 

and kitchen whizz who sharpens her pen on 

the subject of kitchen knives for us. 

GUEST CONTRIBUTOR: 

Alberto Antonini is a consultant oenologist 

who runs Poggiotondo estate in Tuscany 

and co-founded the Matura Group. 

FALSTAFF INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE ISSUE 01/2022 

FALSTAFF INTERNATIONAL 

The articles published in this issue are 

protected by copyright. Translation, reprinting, 

reproduction and storage in data 

processing systems only with express 

permission of the publisher. Quotations 

from articles in this issue are only permitted 

if the source is acknowledged. 

MEDIA OWNER 

Falstaff International AG 

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MANAGING DIRECTORS 

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PRINTING 

Druckerei Berger, 3580 Horn, Austria 

201920021 

PUBLISHER 

Wolfgang M. Rosam 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 

Anne Krebiehl MW 

MANAGING EDITOR 

Catherine Walbridge 

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Anton-Georg Kiener 

ART DIRECTOR Karolina Stasiak 

DESIGNER Isabella Gröller 

PHOTO EDITORS 

Eva Bauer, Thomas Trimmel, Isabella Gehart 

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ILLUSTRATIONS Gina Mueller 

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PROMOTIONS & ADVERTORIALS 

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CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE 

Angelika Ahrens, Lily Cook, Roland Graf, Othmar 

Kiem, Katherine Knowles, Malu Lambert, 

Robin Lee, Susan Low, Hans Mahr, Sarah 

Marshall, Peter Moser, Julia Nittmann, Ned 

Palmer, Peter Pharos, Rex Pickett, Angelika 

Rosam, Gabriel Stone. 

GUEST CONTRIBUTOR 

Alberto Antonini 

DISTRIBUTION MANAGEMENT 

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Strauss 

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10 falstaff mar – jun 2022

9 772791 429001 

document844085597207804694.indd 1 23.03.22 09:30 

MAR – JUN 2022 

50 

Delving into the gamechanging 

2019 Bordeaux 

vintage 

/ mar-jun 2022 

CALIFORNIA 

WINES TO RIVAL 

THE WORLD 


BEST BEACHES 

AROUND 

THE GLOBE 

PERU 

CEVICHE 

NIKKEI & CO. 

128 

Where to munch & 

brunch in the Big 

Apple 

WINE 

14 WINE NEWS 

COVER 

PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK 

01/2022 

FOOD 

70 FOOD NEWS 

Discover & 

REDISCOVER: THE JOY OF SEEING THINGS AFRESH 

€ 12 | CHF 13 | £ 10 | USA $ 15 | CAN $ 17 | AUS $ 17 | DKK 89.95 

WWW.FALSTAFF.COM 

9 772791 429001 

99 

99 

72 

Flavour Destination Peru 

16 RIVALING THE WORLD 

How top-notch red wines from California 

are taking on the world 

32 A CONSTANT SEARCH 

Alberto Antonini on breaking new 

winemaking ground 

34 QUALITY REVOLUTION 

The evolution of Chianti Classico 

42 WHEN THE LAND SPEAKS 

South African single-vineyard white 

wines 

50 BORDEAUX GAME CHANGER 

The 2019 vintage joins the ranks of the 

most elegant years in Bordeaux 

58 GRÜNER GOES GLOBAL 

How Austria’s favourite grape variety is 

thriving around the globe 

68 WINE BASICS 

Barrels, tanks & amphorae 

9 EDITORIAL 

10 CONTRIBUTORS 

168 LETTERS 

26 

Top Californian 

wines tasted and scored 

72 PERU PASSION 

The compelling blend of indigenous 

& immigrant cuisines 

80 PERUVIAN RESTAURANTS 

The 25 best eateries outside Peru 

84 EXOTIC FLAVOURS 

Why exotic flavours nourish the 

senses and the soul 

88 SPEARING SPRINGTIME 

Fresh asparagus recipes 

Photos: Deepix/Chateau Angelus, Getty Images, Liz tasa, RODGER BOSCH / AFP / picturedesk.com, Baros Maldives, Shuttersstock, Screaming Eagle 


INTERNATIONAL 

34 

The landscape that 

brings forth 

Chianti Classico 

98 RESTAURANT ICONS 

Harry’s Bar 

THE REST 

66 THE LIGHTHOUSE 

How not to become jaded 

120 

Marrakech 

Our picks of the best 

places to eat & stay 

42 

The beauty of South 

Africa’s Western Cape has 

shaped its wines 

104 GOAT’S CHEESES 

Tiny cheeses with a big punch 

116 KITCHEN JOTTINGS 

Moroccan Spiced Lamb 

TRAVEL 

118 TRAVEL NEWS 

120 MARRAKECH & MOROCCO 

The enduring appeal of the land of 

sand, stars & spices 

128 BACK IN THE BIG APPLE 

New York City’s best restaurants, 

bars, shops & markets 

138 WHAT LIES BETWEEN 

Florence, Siena & Chianti Classico 

144 FIND YOUR PERFECT BEACH 

Discover the best sandy spots 

around the globexxokyo is not just a 

city – it is a universe in itself. One eti 

30 SIDEWAYS 

Rex Pickett meets the bravest 

woman winemaker 

110 SINGLE-ESTATE COFFEE 

152 MY BEST TRIP 

154 GOURMET ELDORADO 

156 FINELY FORGED 

Cutting-edge kitchen knives 

162 VAMOS AGAVE! 

Tequila & mezcal 

186 THE DREGS 

TASTINGS 

170 CHENIN BLANC 

Global Chenin Blanc Trophy 

174 SOUTHERN FRENCH WHITES 

Southern French White Wine Trophy 

178 SPECIALLY RECOMMENDED 

144 

Best beaches for every occasion 

THE NEXT FALSTAFF ISSUE IS OUT ON 16 JUNE 2022 


falstaff 

13

More news 

Get news directly into your inbox 

with our newsletter. Sign up at 

falstaff.com/newsletter 

WINE 

JANCIS ROBINSON 

HOSTS NEW BBC 

MAESTRO WINE 

COURSE 

In line with its Reithian ethos “to 

inform, educate and entertain,” the British 

Broadcasting Corporation has launched 

a series of online courses on subjects as 

varied as dog training and cooking, taught 

by experts in their field. Jancis Robinson 

MW hosts 25 lessons, lasting a total of six 

hours. The course promises viewers can 

“become a wine expert, painlessly and at 

your own pace.” Robinson herself says: 

“I am going to take you on an adventure 

into my world. This is a course designed for 

anyone who likes drinking wine.” Aimed at 

beginners and experts alike, An Understanding 

of Wine costs £80 and is available 

internationally. bbcmaestro.com 

CHÂTEAU D’YQUEM 

REVEALS GLOBAL 

BY-THE-GLASS “LIGHT- 

HOUSE PROGRAMME“ 

Château d’Yquem in Sauternes, France, 

probably the world’s most famous estate 

for sweet wine, is launching a “lighthouse 

programme” to coincide with the 

launch of its 2019 vintage. The wine, a 

bottle of which usually retails for around 

$450/£340, will be made available by 

the glass in so-called “lighthouse“ 

locations across the world; i.e. selected 

restaurants in Hong Kong, mainland 

China, Australia, Europe, Morocco and 

the US. yquem.fr 

CHAMPAGNE 

LEONARDO DICAPRIO 

BUYS CHAMPAGNE STAKE 

American actor Leonardo DiCaprio is the 

latest celebrity to enter the wine business. In 

late February, he acquired a stake in Champagne 

Telmont, an environmental trail-blazer of 

the region. champagne-telmont.com 


NEWS 

Photos: BBC, mauritius images / Alamy Stock Photos / Per Karlsson, BKWine 2, Getty Images/Gareth Cattermole, Louis Roederer/Emmanuel Allaire, Ornellaia, Royal Collection Trust / © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2022, Peter Moser 

"I think this is a vintage of 

energy and of intensity.” 

JEAN-BAPTISTE LÉCAILLON, Cellar Master 

LOUIS ROEDERER DEBUTS 

CRISTAL 2014 VINTAGE 

The 2014 vintage is described as "one of extremes”, 

by cellar master Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon. 

"We delayed harvest and picked Cristal as late as 

possible: we wanted the extra concentration, the 

extra ripeness, the extra dry extract that is so 

important for the texture of Cristal.” 

louis-roederer.com 

ENGLAND 

ITALY 

QUEEN RELEASES PLATINUM 

JUBILEE WINE 

ORNELLAIA 

REVEALS 2019 

VINTAGE 

Axel Heinz, winemaker 

and estate director at the 

Ornellaia estate in 

Bolgheri, Tuscany, 

describes the wine as 

having “a lot of energy, 

vitality and juiciness.” The 

2019 vintage is Ornellaia’s 

37th since its first commercial 

release in 1985. 

ornellaia.com 

The Royal Collection Trust, part of the royal household, has released 

an English sparkling wine to mark Queen Elizabeth’s platinum jubilee. 

The design of the wine’s label was inspired by the gold embroidery of 

the robe of estate the Queen wore to her coronation in June 1953. The 

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes for the wine were 

grown in the counties of Kent and Sussex. Hand-cut flute glasses depicting 

the national flowers of the UK can be bought alongside in a gift set. 

rct.uk 

BORDEAUX LEGEND ANTHONY 

BARTON DIES (1930-2022) 

Born in Kildare County, Ireland, Barton 

joined his uncle Ronald Barton in Bordeaux 

in 1951 and later became the charismatic 

owner of Châteaux Léoville Barton 

and Langoa-Barton. Tributes were paid 

to his charm and storytelling wit. 

leoville-barton.com 

FOURTH SOMM TV MOVIE TO BE 

RELEASED IN SPRING 2022 

The immensely popular Somm TV franchise 

will release a fourth movie in 

spring 2022. Following the success of 

the original 2013 film that followed four 

Master Sommelier candidates though 

their exam process, two further documentaries 

were released in 2015 and 

2018. The fourth movie Cup of Salvation 

“deals with the origins of religion and 

wine,” says filmmaker Jason Wise. “The 

story spans 8,000 years and includes 

locations all over the world.” 

sommtv.com 

CHAMPAGNE HAILS RECORD 

SALES FOR 2021 

The Comité Champagne (CIVC) reported 

a record number of 320 million bottles 

were sold globally in 2021, valued at a 

total of €5.7 billion/$6.4 billion. This is a 

31% increase in volume and 36% in value 

compared to 2020. That year Covid had 

resulted in an 18% fall in volume and 17% 

in value. 2021 thus represents a recovery 

and speaks of optimism and changing 

consumer habits. Champagne’s top 

export market remains the US, Australia 

became its highest growth market. 

champagne.fr/en 


falstaff 

15

wine / CALIFORNIA 

CALIFORNIA 

TO RIVAL 

THE WORLD 

Photo: Robert Holmes 


Washington D.C. 

CALIFORNIA 

USA 

Old vines at the 

Monte Bello vineyard 

at Ridge Vineyards 

in the Santa Cruz 

Mountains. 

Many of the world’s top-rated red wines hail from California. 

They are rare and expensive – surrounded as much by prestige 

as by prejudice. Falstaff goes in search of what gives these 

wines their unique identity and where they are heading. 

WORDS ANNE KREBIEHL MW WITH ADDITIONAL TASTING NOTES BY PETER MOSER 


falstaff 

17


Californian red wine, especially 

from Napa Valley, has a 

certain image. The wines are 

thought of as big, bold, 

sometimes even brash – and 

sinfully expensive. But while they 

undoubtedly speak of Californian sunshine, 

they come with more nuance than they are 

given credit for. They are joined by equally 

expressive reds from Sonoma and the 

Central Coast. The winemakers and estates 

may not look back at centuries of tradition, 

but they are at the cutting edge of winemaking. 

Because their wines are valued in the 

market, they can afford to lavish care on 

vineyards, invest in progress and attract 

talent. They are also dealing with a 

changing climate and are re-assessing what 

it means to make wine in California – in all 

their numerous styles and philosophies. 

We are here to trace what makes these 

THERE IS THE CRU- 

CIAL INFLUENCE 

OF THE COLD PACIFIC 

AND ITS CLIMATIC 

INTERPLAY WITH 

THE INLAND HEAT. 

wines so unmistakeably Californian – 

because authenticity and sense of place 

are the cornerstones of fine wine. We 

find much to discover and rediscover in 

the Golden State. 

THE PLACE AND ITS PAST 

California’s coastline spans 1,350km/840 

miles – longer than Italy’s boot. Its wine 

country covers just over eight degrees of 

latitude from its southernmost point in San 

Diego to its northernmost outpost on Lake 

Trinity. Then there is the crucial influence 

of the cold Pacific Ocean and its climatic 

interplay with the inland heat. In the 

numerous valleys along the coast and 

inland where both these elements are 

moderated by topography, read mountain 

ranges and their varying altitudes, vines 

thrive. That this land was destined for 

viticulture was as evident to Spanish 

Inset above: The Robert Mondavi 

Winery in Napa Valley. Below: 

The Pacific Ocean and California’s 

mountainous, coastal terrain are 

key elements in the different styles 

of wine that are made. 

18 falstaff 

mar – jun 2022

The harvest crew at Ridge 

Vineyards picks grapes into small 

crates, so they won’t be crushed by 

their own weight and will arrive in 

the winery in pristine condition. 

Photos: To Kalon, Ridge Vineyards, Napa Vintners/Bella Spurrier, Getty Images/Adam Kaz 

missionaries in the 18th century as to the 

scores of European immigrants who arrived 

in the 19th century. By the turn of the 20th 

century, there was a thriving and professional 

Californian wine industry: in the late 

1850s there were 2,407ha/5,948 acres of 

vines in California, by 1914, that had 

swelled to 121,114ha/299,280 acres. Then 

came Prohibition. Ratified in 1919, the 

Volstead Act came into force in 1920 and 

was not repealed until 1933. After this 

disruptive blow, new pioneers emerged who 

set the course. André Tchelistcheff in the 

1940s and 50s, Robert Mondavi and Paul 

Draper in the 1960s, Warren Winiarski, 

Jess Jackson and many more in the 1970s 

and 80s. 

PARIS, PARKER & CULT WINES 

A turning point came in 1976, when the 

late British merchant Steven Spurrier staged 

a comparative blind tasting in his Paris 

wine shop, pitting the best French wines 

against a range of then unknown Californian 

wines. To their horror, famous French 

critics scored the Californian wines higher 

than their homegrown classics. The story 

was covered by Time magazine and all of a 

sudden California was no longer an 

arriviste – it had arrived. At the time, 

California was still planted to a wide mix 

of grape varieties – suited to the land or 

not. But the ‘Judgement of Paris’, as it 

became known, along with another key 

Steven Spurrier‘s ‘Judgement of Paris’ in 1976, 

changed the course of Californian wine. 

figure, changed the California wine 

industry: an American critic called Robert 

Parker. His rise in the 1980s coincided with 

California’s – and his love for ripe, opulent 

wines soon made itself felt. A third element 

was also decisive: many vineyards had been 

planted on rootstocks that were not 

resistant to the phylloxera pest, thus when 

vineyards had to be replanted in the 1980s, 

more often than not they were planted to 

Cabernet Sauvignon. In the 1990s, the 

phenomenon of the cult wine was born: 

fine wines, usually Cabernet Sauvignon-based, 

made in tiny quantities and initially 

released at expensive but still affordable 

prices, received top scores and sold out 

immediately. You were either one of the 

lucky early subscribers or had to languish 

on a waiting list for years. Prices went into 

the stratosphere, many jumped on the 

bandwagon and California gained its 

reputation. 

CALIFORNIA TODAY 

Today, the long shadow cast by the 1980s, 

90s and 2000s is waning and California, 

< 


falstaff 

19


CALIFORNIA, IN 

TUNE WITH GLOBAL 

VITICULTURE, HAS 

TURNED ITS ATTENTION 

BACK TO ITS SOILS, ITS 

LAND, ITS TERRITORY. 

Above left: Cabernet 

Sauvignon grapes 

turning from green to 

to purple, a process 

known as veraison. 

Inset left: Cathy 

Corison’s winery and 

her Kronos Vineyard 

in Rutherford. 

< 

in tune with global viticulture, has 

turned its attention back to its soils, its 

land, its territory. The top winemakers 

strive to express place – that amalgam of 

site, climate, aspect, soil and culture – and 

the wines reflect their origin. 

Some winemakers, in fact, have never 

done anything else. “There have been many 

turning points in Napa Valley’s history and 

in ours. I think one of the biggest ones, in 

terms of wine quality, was when the focus 

shifted from the cellar to the vineyard. 

Here at Shafer that started happening in 

the late 1980s and has continued to evolve 

every year,” says Doug Shafer of Shafer 

Vineyards. “We farm over 200 acres and 

we’re out there just about nonstop from January 

through November – someone comes 

in contact with each vine at least 11 or 12 

times. The number of times human hands 

come in contact with Shafer vines each year 

is more than 2.7 million.” He notes how it 

took a while to recognise what would work 

best: “The grape that really shines on our 

site is Cabernet Sauvignon and that’s the 

result of a lot of trial and error. Early in 

our history this property has been planted 

to Zinfandel, Merlot, Chenin Blanc, Sangiovese, 

and Chardonnay. The clear winner 

is Cabernet Sauvignon.” 

VALLEY AND 

MOUNTAIN 

Cathy Corison is another 

winemaker whose focus never 

swayed from her vines. She founded her 

estate in 1987 in Napa’s Rutherford AVA 

(American Viticultural Area) after working 

as a winemaker across the Valley. She 

explains why Rutherford, on an alluvial 

fan that straddles several AVAs, is special: 

“Extremely well-drained gravelly loam 

soils hold water for the vines when they 

need to grow in the spring. Thanks to 

rainless summers, they dry out right at 

Cathy Corison owns the Kronos vineyard with 

51-year-old vines. The wine is a Napa icon. 

veraison, when the 

grapes change colour, 

so the vines get busy 

ripening their fruit.” It is on 

this land that her real treasure 

stands: “Kronos Vineyard is situated on the 

bench with soils so gravelly that we could 

mine them for gravel,” she says. “The 

hottest part of the valley, St. Helena, has 

the perfect climate for Cabernet with the 

heat to consistently and optimally ripen the 

fruit, retain acidity and lignify seeds. 

“Kronos is also one of the last old Cabernet 

vineyards in the Napa Valley, planted 

in 1971. Growing on St. George rootstock 

it avoided the fate of most other vineyards 

that were on AxR1 rootstock when phylloxera 

came back. Yields are pitifully low, 

but it has been a gift to work with these 

gnarly old ladies. The scraggly clusters of 

tiny berries result in wines of remarkable 

concentration. Kronos has been farmed 

organically for over 25 years, long before it 

became fashionable, so its soils are wildly 

alive.” 

Another historic vineyard on the Valley 

floor is To Kalon, first planted in 1868, its 

Greek name meaning “highest beauty.” The 

late Robert Mondavi (1913–2008), one of 

the key figures in forging quality 

< 

Photos: Ridge Vineyards, Corison Winery, Robert McClenahan, Harlan Estate, Vérité 


Above: The 

mountainous terrain 

of the vineyards at 

Harlan Estate. Inset: 

The trio of Vérité 

wines from Sonoma. 

Left: Pumping over 

fermenting Cabernet 

Sauvignon. This process 

helps to extract colour 

and tannins. 


falstaff 

21


< 

viti culture in Napa Valley, had made 

wine from parcels of To Kalon from the 

1960s onwards. Owned by Constellation 

Brands today, the Mondavi brand is still 

going strong. Geneviève Janssens, chief 

winemaker at Robert Mondavi Winery, 

trained with the man himself and says: 

“Robert Mondavi knew that he had a 

treasure in To Kalon. It offers three important 

things: personality, resilience and a 

source of inspiration. Its beauty is also its 

resilience: whatever the vintage conditions, 

we always end up with great wine. 

“It was this passion and Mondavi’s 

pursuit of perfection at his winery that 

inspired so many to follow in his footsteps.” 

One of those he inspired was Will 

Harlan. He founded his eponymous estate 

in 1984 in the hills above Oakville. While 

Kronos and To Kalon speak of the Valley 

floor, others make different styles on the 

mountains that rise on either side of the 

Valley. Harlan is one of them. He deliberately 

went for hillside vineyards. Harlan’s 

Proprietary Red became one of Napa’s 

most sought-after wines, grown at 100 - 

167m/325 - 550ft, renowned for its 

structure and longevity. Before buying the 

land for the original Harlan Estate, Harlan 

had eyed another property which finally 

came up for sale in 2008. This is the 

family’s Promontory Estate, and again, the 

wine is different from Harlan – because it 

is grown in very different conditions – despite 

being just 500m/550yds apart. Surrounded 

on all sides by woodland, 

winemaker David Cilli describes 

the land as “wild, very steep, 

rugged, untamed.” It lies 

along a geological 

faultline between two 

ridges on metamorphic 

rock. Motion 

sensor cameras 

have captured mountain lions and bears on 

the land. The wine is distinct from Harlan: 

where Harlan is velvet, Promontory is silk. 

Cilli says the surrounding forests “harvest 

the fog and moisture of the mornings and 

release it later in the day,” lending freshness 

to the wines. “Freshness is the opposite of 

gravity in the mouth, it gives you that tonic 

feel.” Today, freshness is as prized as power 

and even those who know Napa will find 

something new to discover – with a 

different style. “We feel there is a step 

change in Napa, too,” Cilli says. 

When Ann Colgin founded her 

estate in 1992, she also 

looked for mountain 

vineyards. Paul 

Roberts MS, 

president of 

Colgin Cellars, 

explains that 

the three 

Inset: A perfect bunch of 

grapes. Below: Vines in the To 

Kalon vineyard on the Valley 

floor with the Mayacamas 

Mountains in the background. 

Photos: Jamey Thomas, Timm Eubanks, Harlan Estate, Bob McClenahan 


The fermentation room at 

Harlan Estate, offering the 

possibility of fermentation in 

oak and stainless steel. 

THE IX ESTATE 

VINEYARD IS A 

LAVA FLOW WITH 

IRON-TINGED RED CLAY. 

MIXED WITH THE 

ROCKY BASE MATERIAL, 

IT ADDS A SANGUINE 

NATURE TO THE SITE. 

Corny perhaps but also iconic – the 

famous sign greeting travellers as 

they enter Napa Valley. 

single vineyard sites they farm are very 

different, resulting in distinct styles of wine: 

the historic Tychson Hill vineyard at 91 - 

129m/300 - 400ft is on a rare volcanic 

formation, sitting between Spring Mountain 

and Diamond Mountain. It is their 

hottest site during the day and the coldest 

at night, creating exquisitely elegant wine. 

The Cariad vineyard on Spring Mountain 

at 122 - 152m/400 - 500ft is on an ancient 

riverbed uplifted by geological movement 

and benefits from the cold air flows of 

Spring Mountain; the IX Estate vineyard, 

the highest site at 335 - 427m/1,100 - 

1,400ft is also of volcanic origin, “a lava 

flow with iron-tinged red clay. Mixed with 

the rocky base material it adds a sanguine 

nature to the site,” Roberts says. Likewise, 

the four wines of Lokoya from Spring 

Mountain, Diamond Mountain, Howell 

Mountain and Mount Veeder are distinct 

and straight 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon 

expressions of these sites, fermented 

with native yeast and bottled unfiltered to 

underscore these differences. 

THE ONLY WAY IS UP 

But plush red wine is not just the preserve 

of Napa Valley. To its northwest, across the 

Mayacamas Mountains, in Sonoma 

County, there are less well-known but 

similarly compelling AVAs – at higher 

elevations. Vineyards in Alexander Valley, 

Bennett Valley and Knight Valley start at 

elevations of 150m/500ft and rise much 

higher. Altitude makes a difference because 

the fog layer that comes in from the Pacific 

burns off earlier, allowing more sunlight, 

while cooler temperatures mean a longer 

growing season. When the late Jess Jackson 

(1930-2011), the man behind the famous 

Kendall-Jackson brand, wanted to create a 

red wine to rival the world, he lured French 

winemaker Pierre Seillan to California and 

gave him the pick of his Sonoma vineyards. 

Seillan chose sites in these high-elevation 

AVAs. This is how Vérité was born in 1998. 

Three wines are made: Merlot-based La 

Muse, Cabernet Franc-based Le Désir and 

Cabernet Sauvignon-based La Joie. Seillan’s 

blends are created from what he calls 

“micro-crus” and he says: “My only goal 

for Vérité wines was – and still is – to 

capture the best message of the soils from 

my different micro-crus to elevate the 

Sonoma appellation to the highest level in 

the world, with the unique style and 

signature of Vérité.” His wines are yet 

another facet of California – different, 

elegant, distinct. 

< 


falstaff 

23


< 

DOWN THE COAST 

The trail of fine red wine continues right 

down the coast. Just south of San Francisco, 

the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA is home 

to another Californian Cabernet icon: 

Ridge Vineyards’ Monte Bello. The Monte 

Bello Vineyard was first planted in 1862. In 

1949 it was replanted to Cabernet Sauvignon 

and in 1962 the first Ridge Monte 

Bello wine was released. In 1969 the 

philosophy graduate Paul Draper joined as 

winemaker and took the estate to ever 

greater heights. Harvest at this elevated 

vineyard at 600m/2,000ft is not until 

October. This is one of California’s 

inherent contradictions: 

further south is not necessarily 

warmer as the Pacific and 

altitude always have a role to 

play. John Olney is now the 

head winemaker. He says: 

“The combination of a coastal, 

cool climate and limestone-rich 

soils is rarely seen in California. 

This allows the grapes to attain full 

ripeness without excessive sugar, 

retaining firm, natural acidity. Since Monte 

Bello is all mountain-grown fruit, soil 

fertility is modest, resulting in lower yields 

and incredible concentration. Tasting the 

wine is almost like tasting the mountain 

itself.” 

With its high proportion of American 

oak in winemaking, expressed in rich tones 

of coconut and vanilla which suits the ripe 

but defined fruit, Monte Bello is unmistakably 

and unapologetically Californian. 

Fresh green 

on the vines 

and the iconic 

Valley Oaks 

of Sonoma 

County. 

Above: Inland heat 

draws cold air 

and fog from the 

ocean into the 

valleys. Inset left: 

A limestone seam 

in the soils of the 

Adelaida District in 

Paso Robles. 

WHAT I TASTE IN 

PASO ROBLES IS 

PURITY OF FRUIT FROM 

320 DAYS OF SUN AND 

VIBRANCY OF ACIDS 

PRESERVED BY OUR 

ALTITUDE. 

Three hours further south, Paso Robles, 

is another hot spot for full-bodied reds. 

Again, there are distinguishing features that 

make the area suited for world-class wines. 

Tablas Creek is a French-American co-production. 

The late Robert Haas (1927-2018) 

was an importer of French wines and partnered 

with the Perrin family of Château 

Beaucastel in the Rhône Valley, France, to 

create Tablas Creek. They hit on the Adelaida 

District of Paso Robles because of the 

area’s calcareous soils – and the altitudes of 

427 - 487m/1,400 - 1,600ft. Robert’s son 

Jason now runs the winery. “What I taste 

in Paso Robles is purity of fruit from 320 

days of sun, vibrancy of the acids preserved 

by our altitude and our cold nights,” 

he says, “and a salty, sea-spray minerality 

from the chalky soils here.” Haas’ top wine, 

Esprit de Tablas, is a blend of Mourvèdre, 

Grenache, Syrah and Counoise – different 

from the plush Cabernets, but definitely top 

range – with a spicy allure. 

Daniel Daou of Daou Vineyards is just 

down the road but has specialised in Cabernet 

Sauvignon and Chardonnay. He also 

emphasises the calcareous soils of the area: 

“They provide minerality and freshness 

that allow for dry-farming or deficit irrigation 

and wines made naturally without 

acidification.” He also points to the altitude 

of 670m/2,200ft and the proximity of the 

Pacific which is just 22km/14 miles away. 

“This allows us to have a climate 

warmer than Bordeaux and cooler than 

Photos: Getty Images/Peter Unger, Daou Vineyards, mauritius images / Don White / Alamy / Alamy Stock Photos, Shutterstock, ADREES LATIF / REUTERS / picturedesk.com 


St. Helena in Napa.” 

His wines have a 

different kind of texture and real 

brightness. He observes that the elegant 

and cooler style of his wines resonates with 

drinkers – despite the supposed “heresy” of 

planting Cabernet Sauvignon in Paso 

Robles. 

FEELING THE HEAT 

The challenges of climate change are real 

– as are the attendant extreme weather 

events and wildfires. While the cold Pacific 

acts as an air-conditioning unit for coastal 

vineyards, inland areas are feeling the heat. 

Ridge Vineyards’ John Olney says: “Especially 

in the era of climate change, starting 

with grapes that are in equilibrium is a big 

advantage.” Across California, there are a 

range of sustainability programmes, like 

Napa Green. The uptake is big – by 2019, 

99 percent of Sonoma County vineyards 

and 94 percent of Napa vineyards were 

certified sustainable. Across the state, 55 

percent of vineyard acreage is certified 

sustainable – so water preservation and soil 

protection is an ever-present endeavour. 

But climate change also makes itself felt in 

other ways. Colgin’s Paul Roberts says 

much more attention is now paid to water 

use and thus, the proportion of Merlot in 

the Colgin blends has steadily decreased 

over the years. “Merlot loves water like a 

kid loves candy,” he says about the vines’ 

thirst. He also underlines how aware 

everyone is of preserving freshness: “We 

talk about breeze and airflow, but for 

different reasons than in European 

viticulture. For us, it is to add freshness, 

preserve perfume and heighten acidity by 

cooling a vineyard down.” He notes that 

statewide, including areas that do not 

produce any wine at all, 2021 was the 

hottest year on record; he also adds that in 

the past decade, there has always been 

“some form of drought.” While some 

estates question whether Cabernet Sauvignon 

will still be the right answer for 

CALIFORNIA 

A PERSPECTIVE 

Katie Lazar and Christopher Howell, both 

70 years old, have lived at Cain Vineyard & 

Winery on Spring Mountain in Napa Valley for 

years and Howell has made wine for the past 

30 vintages there. In September 2020, they 

narrowly escaped the Glass Fire that raged 

through Napa County for days. They lost their 

home and some vineyards to the fire. After so 

many years, and this great loss, Howell has 

some perspective on the evolution of Napa 

Valley – and thus California. He is wondering 

what to replant. 

“Places like the Napa Valley might be likened 

to the growing up of a person. At first, as 

a young child, we are full of potential, and 

certain proclivities might declare themselves, 

but it is really too soon to know what is 

possible. This might have been the case of 

Napa Valley in the 1870s and 1880s and again 

in the 1940s to 1960s. In these periods, the 

range of grape varieties planted and the wines 

made covered virtually the entire gamut of 

known wines. 

Then, as an adolescent, we begin to try on 

various identities, but it is too soon to be even 

aware that what we are doing is trying to find 

ourselves. This might be where we were in the 

Napa Valley during the 1970s, 80s and early 

90s, as we incessantly tried to compare our 

wines with the great wines of the world. At 

that time, our focus had narrowed to fewer 

varieties – especially Chardonnay and Cabernet 

Sauvignon. But, as with all adolescents, 

this still didn’t mean that we knew what we 

were doing. 

As a young adult, the Napa Valley is still 

struggling. We are just beginning to emerge 

from the fog of Cabernet and new oak barrels, 

but there is cause to hope that we are beginning 

to understand our terroir and our identity 

as a red winegrowing region.” 

California has had to grapple 

with extreme events like 

wildfires in recent years. 

California in the coming decades, Roberts 

takes a long-term view, informed by 

historic perspective: “Over the next 30 

years, in a generation, will we have to plant 

Touriga Nacional [a heat and drought-resistant 

grape from Portugal]? Maybe. As our 

climate continues to evolve, we will 

continue to make that evolution, too. In 

agriculture you cannot be revolutionary.” 

Style is changing, too: “We are able to 

make natural wines that retain elegance 

and freshness and don’t sacrifice power for 

elegance, the consumer adoption has 

started to shift in the US and in California,” 

says Daniel Daou. 

In the meantime, Californian winemakers 

must also ensure they can compete 

with marijuana growers for farm labour 

now that recreational use of the plant has 

been legalised. Another challenge is 

attracting new drinkers – appealing to a 

younger demographic is hard with the 

current price tags. Nonetheless, the fact 

that Californian reds, especially blue-chip 

Cabernets, are seen as a worthwhile 

investment was proved again in February 

2022 with the $250 million sale of Shafer 

Vineyards to a Korean investor. Doug 

Shafer knows that wine is essentially about 

agriculture and all its inherent challenges: 

“Anyone who wants an easy, predictable 

life should definitely avoid farming,” he 

says. Winemakers the world over will agree 

– and also on the fact that Californian 

wines can rival the world. 

< 


falstaff 

25


BEST OF 

CALIFORNIA 

26 falstaff mar – jun 2022 

100 

2018 SCREAMING EAGLE 

Napa Valley 

Intense dark berry aroma streams 

from the glass. Cabernet concentrate 

of cassis, liquorice, lavender oil, 

ethereal and floral at the same 

time, supported by fine oak, fresh 

red fruits and salty minerality. Fullbodied, 

but not exuberant, powerful 

yet elegant, carried by ripe tannins 

and driven by a racy acid core, a 

hedonistic wine of enormous length 

and incalculable potential. PM 

••••• 

99 

2016 PROMONTORY 

Napa Valley 

A hint of lichen, of moss and conifer 

clings to the dark fruit, almost with a 

citrus intensity. That perfume also 

informs the palate which seems 

compact, bullet-like, contained, 

seamless. There is luscious, melting, 

ripe fruit with a crushed blackberry 

character. The tannins are fine, freshness 

pervades the wine. This is firm, 

ripe, taut, fresh, dense, sleek, aromatic. 

There is focus and elegance. AK 

••••• 

98 

2017 CORISON KRONOS CABER- 

NET SAUVIGNON 

St. Helena, Napa Valley 

Wonderful blackcurrant lift to the 

perfumed nose, followed by fruit, 

wax and stone with some myrrh in 

the background. The palate is seamless, 

dense, flowing yet firm, like 

finest canvas stretched over a taut 

frame. There is an inherently graceful 

yet sumptuous structure, something 

very fine, bright and fresh at 

that dark-fruited heart of the wine. 

Incredibly elegant. AK 

••••• 

100 

2018 DALLA VALLE MAYA 

Oakville, Napa Valley 

Deep, dark ruby, opaque core, purple 

reflections. Intense dark berry fruit, 

fresh cassis note, some nougat, fine 

wood spice, backed by vanilla. Complex, 

juicy, ripe sweet blackberries, 

elegant tannins, very long, chocolaty 

touch on the finish, perfectly 

balanced, lingers for minutes, certain 

ageing potential for decades. 

PM 

••••• 

99 

2018 LOKOYA HOWELL MOUN- 

TAIN, Napa Valley 

Touches of mocha and vanilla play 

around the crushed blueberry notions 

of the nose. The palate has 

earthy depth and an uncommon 

kind of salty resonance. Stone, salt 

and earth have a beautiful presence 

and lend the wine an unusual harmony 

that pulls together powerful 

but sumptuous tannins, a bold but 

sinuous body and rich, layered fruit 

with a cinnamon and nutmeg finish. 

AK 

••••• 

98 

2017 SHAFER HILLSIDE SELECT 

Stags Leap District, Napa Valley 

Crushed plum and mocha have a 

hint of mint on the nose and immediately 

point to intense concentration. 

The palate then is a sumptuous 

swish of utterly concentrated but 

aromatic fruit, edged with freshness 

and revealing layers of smoke, 

blackberry, cocoa and mocha. Ripe 

tannins are firm but smooth and 

underlined by fine, mouth-watering 

acidity. A picture of sleek, smooth, 

bundled power. AK 

••••• 

Up to EUR / GBP 15 and USD 20 EUR 

• •• 

EUR •••• 

/ GBP 15 – 30 and USD 20 – 35 

/ GBP 51 – 100 and USD 61 – 110 

••••• 

99 

2015 HARLAN PROPRIETARY RED 

Napa Valley 

Lush sumptuousness of plum and 

dark berry, comes with a floral 

touch and a sense of earthiness. 

The palate is lush and ripe with fruit 

while tannins coat the entire mouth, 

trailing hints of dark chocolate, ash 

and coal. This is powerful but utterly 

disciplined, of flexed and defined 

muscle, with incredible depth of tar, 

of berry, of beautifully bitter, dark 

chocolate, underlined by freshness. 

AK 

••••• 

99 

2018 JOSEPH PHELPS INSIGNIA 

Napa Valley 

Dark ruby, purple reflections. Fine, 

somewhat restrained wild berry 

confit, delicate raspberry and cherry 

aromas, fresh orange zest, attractive 

bouquet, a hint of cassis in the 

background. Complex, full-bodied, 

highly elegant, sweet cherry fruit, 

integrated tannins, fine nougat and 

great length, mineral in the finish, 

certain ageing potential for decades. 

PM 

••••• 

98 

2018 COLGIN TYCHSON HILL 

Napa Valley 

Notions of freshly crushed blackberry 

fruit and a bright, berryish scentedness. 

The palate is dense and 

unfurls like a bale of glossy, soft 

silk. The tannins are firmly woven 

but exquisitely fine and ripe, drying 

only towards the end. The fruit is 

rich, sumptuous but also fresh and 

fine. Notions of blueberry appear. 

Just a little heat sits on the long 

finish that also holds an echo of fine 

cocoa. AK 

••••• 

EUR / GBP 31 – 50 and USD 36 – 60 

••••• above EUR / GBP 100 and USD 110 

Photos: Wineries

YOURS TO DEFINE 

You have one rule. Make your own. 

ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.


BEST OF 

CALIFORNIA 

97 

2018 VÉRITÉ LE DÉSIR 

Sonoma County 

A shy nose hints at dark berry and 

some graphite only. It is on the palate 

that the fine freshness, the 

superfine tannin, like combed, starched 

silk, breaks though. There is 

crunch, there is freshness, there is 

this insistent, lasting, long and pure, 

tart red berry fruit. This is Cab Franc 

the California way. AK 

••••• 

97 

2017 TESSERON ESTATE PYM- 

RAE, Napa Valley 

From the Californian sister estate of 

Château Pontet-Canet. Deep ruby, 

purple reflections. Black berry fruit 

underlaid with sweet exotic spices, 

hints of clove, cinnamon and vanilla, 

ripe black cherries, hints of cedar. 

Taut, elegant texture, notes of cassis, 

ripe blueberries, strong tannins, 

chocolaty nuances on the finish, has 

a long lasting finish, very good prospects. 

PM 

••••• 

97 

2016 CAIN FIVE 

Spring Mountain District, 

Napa Valley 

Crushed fruit of the forest plays on 

the nose alongside graphite and 

charcoal. On the palate juicy, welldefined 

plum joins in, tannins are 

superfine, lending a gracefully firm 

structure. There are glimpses of 

earth and chocolate and more of 

that glorious plum fruit. AK 

••••• 

97 

2018 CARDINALE 

Napa Valley 

The nose is of lifted blackberry and 

dark forest fruit on this blend, made 

from a combination of Napa’s mountain 

fruit. There are overtones of 

gravel, of stone, of hints of smoke. 

The palate is immediately concentrated, 

powerful and intense. This is 

like a primal force, bold but toned, 

rich but fresh. Ripe tannins coat the 

mouth, assert themselves while 

that dark fruit lingers. AK 

••••• 

97 

2018 DAOU SOUL OF A LION 

Adelaida District, Paso Robles 

A pure scent of cassis is joined by 

graphite and sea breeze on the nose. 

The palate brings an immediate 

sense of freshness and structure, of 

toned richness and density. The tannins 

are firm but seem to crumble 

into velvet. There is fine freshness 

and infinitely more of that lovely, 

scented, pure blackcurrant fruit. The 

finish is mouth-watering and has a 

hint of cocoa. AK 

••••• 

96 

2018 RIDGE MONTE BELLO 

Santa Cruz Mountains 

The sumptuous vanilla tones of 

American oak frame the tart blackberry 

notes on the nose beautifully. 

The palate comes in with exquisite 

freshness and more of that alluring, 

ripe but tart blackberry fruit and 

baking spice. There is verve and 

brightness here, and a lovely sinuousness 

that shows off the elegant, 

firm tannins and the aromatic nuance 

of the fruit. Such a classic. AK 

••••• 


95 

2017 MONDAVI TO KALON 

RESERVE, Oakville, Napa Valley 

Smoke and a touch of caramel play 

on the nose before dark plum fruit 

becomes apparent. The palate is 

fresh, has flow, and unfolds into a 

smooth blanket of dark fruit with 

overtones of tar, mocha, smoke and 

salted caramel. The tannins are 

dense and ripe and the finish has 

lovely, mouth-watering freshness. 

AK 

••••• 

95 

2017 TABLAS CREEK ESPRIT DE 

TABLAS 

Adelaida District, Paso Robles 

Smoke and spice immediately frame 

crushed red berry on the nose. The 

palate seems to carry darker, more 

brooding fruit at its core. Layers of 

fruit reveal themselves with aromatic 

nuance while gentle tannins lend 

texture. There is chalkiness and 

vivid freshness that balances the 

sunshine that seems visceral in the 

glass. The spice on the finish is 

utterly appetising. AK 

•••• 


• •• 

EUR •••• 

94 

2019 L’AVENTURE ESTATE 

CUVÉE, Paso Robles 

Deep ruby, purple reflections, 

discreetly brightened at the rim. 

Delicate animal spice, black berries, 

a hint of liquorice and black olives, 

tobacco nuances, candied orange 

zest in the background. Complex, 

sweet dark fruit of blackberries and 

plums, firm, somewhat demanding 

tannin, nougat on the finish, good 

length, will benefit from bottle age. 

PM 

•••• 

/ GBP 15 – 30 and USD 20 – 35 EUR / GBP 31 – 50 and USD 36 – 60 

/ GBP 51 – 100 and USD 61 – 110 ••••• above EUR / GBP 100 and USD 110 

Photos: Wineries

Tequila 

TEQUILA GLASS 

The glass, designated as the “Official Tequila 

Glass” was designed to highlight the finest 

characteristics of Mexico’s national drink. 

Together with the Consejo Regulador del 

Tequila, RIEDEL created the Tequila glass 

especially for Tequila Reposado and Extra 

Añejo. The tall stem is meant to lift fine Tequila 

to the level it deserves, to accord it 

the appreciation and respectof which it is 

worthy. The “Original Tequila Glass” is 

the result of two tasting workshops led by 

Georg J. Riedel and attended by over two 

dozen Tequila producers, officials and cognoscenti, 

using 100% Agave Tequila Reposado. 

RIEDEL.COM

sideways column / REX PICKETT 

MARIA LUZ MARIN: 

THE BR AVEST 

WOMAN 

WINEMAKER 

What was supposed to be an exploration of Chilean Pinot Noir for our 

columnist, turned into "a journey into a Conradian heart of darkness” — 

until he caught a glimpse of a remote vineyard on the edge of the Pacific. 

WORDS REX PICKETT 

Iwant to emigrate to Denmark. 

No, not because they have great 

healthcare. I want to emigrate there 

because that one nation of six million 

people imports a whopping 20 

percent of wine from Chile’s Viña Casa 

Marin, most of it their ethereal Cipreses 

Sauvignon Blanc, the finest Sauvignon Blanc 

in the world, in my no doubt controversial 

estimation. 

Travel back to 2012. I got invited to the 

country to write Sideways 3: Chile, the 

third in my trilogy. On the surface, a dream 

job. Except when I arrived I discovered that 

my benefactors were mostly big wineries 

run by obscenely rich crypto-Pinochet 

loyalists. They held lavish dinners at their 

wineries in an effort to seduce me into writing 

about them. 

But, I’m a writer, and I was there to 

research a novel, not participate in influence-peddling. 

I broke from my benefactors, 

met some people who could take me to 

the “real” winemakers of Chile and thus 

began a journey into a Conradian heart 

of darkness that found me at one point in 

a colossal, but derelict, villa deep in the 

wilderness where I was knighted by the 

brotherhood of MOVI – but, that’s another 

article. 

I was on the precipice of decamping 

in despair and scuttling the 

novel when an American expat, 

hearing my lamentations, insisted 

I visit Viña Casa Marin. 

Disgruntled, querulous, 

sleep-deprived from all the 

wining and dining, I navigated 

with my travelling companion 

to a winery in Lo Abarca bordering 

the renowned Casablanca 

Valley, and close to the seaside city 

of Valparaíso. Situated a mere four 

kilometres from a frigid ocean that never 

rises above 15°C/59°F and plummets to 

7°C/45°F in winter, Casa Marin’s location 

would not seem an ideal place for viticulture. 

Sixty hectares of steep, roller-coaster 

hills met us as we arrived. We were 

escorted up tortuous dirt switchbacks to a 

charming casita on the top of the property. 

A FATEFUL ENCOUNTER 

The first thing we noticed was the wind. It 

howled in the afternoon, but I learned over 

the course of my stay that this wind was 

salubrious for the vines. In the distance, the 

cold Pacific coruscated with its upwelling 

Humboldt currents. It was so quiet we 

could hear the wish-wish of an Andean 

IN THE DISTANCE, 

THE COLD 

PACIFIC CORUSCATED 

WITH ITS UPSWELLING 

HUMBOLDT 

CURRENTS. 

REX PICKETT 

AUTHOR & NOVELIST 

Rex Pickett published 

his novel Sideways in 

2004. It was made 

into the eponymous 

film in the same year 

and changed drinking 

habits across the 

world. Pickett has 

since written two 

sequels and will be 

reporting from his 

forthcoming travels 

for Falstaff. 

Photos: Matt Wilson 


You can see and smell 

the Pacific Ocean from 

Viña Casa Marina‘s steep 

vineyards. 

Inset: Maria Luz Marin 

condor soaring past, the largest raptor on 

the planet. It felt like we had journeyed 

back in time. A woman arrived to fix us 

dinner. We opened a bottle of Sauvignon 

Blanc...and began to be transported to another 

Chile. 

The next day we tasted in Viña Casa Marin’s 

winery. Maria Luz Marin is a beautiful 

woman with a fierce, almost stoic gaze, 

born of hard work and suffering. Her son 

Felipe, now the head winemaker, accompanied 

her. We started tasting. We started 

talking. Twenty-five years ago, Maria was, 

essentially, a négociant, advising big wineries 

on creating wines for export, often 

shaped by heavy, fruit-bomb predilections. 

She despised these wines and wanted to 

create her own with more balance and nuance. 

When you talk to Maria, she is clearly 

a rebellious, independent-minded woman 

and does not brook naysayers. If you tell 

her she can’t do something, that’s the very 

thing she wants to do. 

They opened a bottle of their signature 

Sauvignon Blanc, Cipreses. The wine in 

the glass looked like glacier water, barely a 

hint of colour. In the mouth it was intensely 

floral, but with bracing acidity. “She’s a 

shy wine,” Felipe commented. “Wait until 

you taste the older ones.” The wine in my 

glass was the most 

astonishing Sauvignon 

Blanc I had ever tasted. 

“Am I imagining things, 

Maria and Felipe, or do I taste a 

hint of brininess from the ocean?” They 

both smiled broadly. “Yes!” said Maria. 

There are Sauvignon Blancs in California, 

in Bordeaux, in Sancerre, and there 

is New Zealand, South Africa and Chile 

– and many other regions. But this Casa 

Marin? My God! Taproots sunk deep in 

limestone and granite, but grown close to 

an ocean where no sane person would dare 

viticulture and risk bankruptcy... 

AGAINST ALL ODDS 

As the sun lowered and threw pillars of 

shadows in the bodega, Maria recounted 

MARIA LUZ MARIN IS 

A BEAUTIFUL 

WOMAN WITH A 

FIERCE, ALMOST STOIC 

GAZE, BORN OF HARD 

WORK AND SUFFERING. 

how the woman who 

sold her the 60-hectare 

eucalyptus parcel wept 

when Maria told her intention: 

to plant grapes. She wept 

because she was positive her countrywoman 

was destined to go to rack and ruin. 

In defiance of the government, Maria 

deforested the eucalypti and planted Sauvignon 

Blanc and Pinot Noir, with additional 

blocks devoted to Syrah, Riesling and 

Gewurztraminer. Her Pinots are another 

article, but it’s her Sauvignon Blancs that 

almost defy description, inspire lyricism. 

She made it in man’s world, on her own 

terms, against all odds, against all sane advice 

on winemaking to the contrary. 

Felipe went back in years with the Sauvignon 

Blancs. The high acidity started to 

attenuate and then the “shy” fruits started 

to bob to the surface like impish sprites. 

I stayed on in Chile for another two 

months and came home to write Sideways 

3: Chile. Maria Luz Marin gave me hope 

that there was much to discover in Chile. 

And there was. But I, too, had to suffer for 

it. And this is how you find the greatest 

Sauvignon Blanc made in the world. You 

go where they don’t want you to go. Just 

like Maria. 

< 


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31

guest column / ALBERTO ANTONINI 

A CONSTANT 

SEARCH 

Alberto Antonini is one of the world’s foremost consultant oenologists. He has 

advised many wineries across the globe and broken new ground on various 

continents. Driven by curiosity, he has forged his own thoughts and philosophies. 

WORDS ALBERTO ANTONINI 

My whole professional life 

has been quite adventurous. 

It has been a constant 

search for new discoveries 

or rediscoveries. I started 

with my thesis in viticulture at the University 

of Florence by searching for grape 

varieties on the verge of extinction. In the 

province of Florence alone I found over 60 

of them. This showed me the sense of 

complexity and biodiversity of the wine 

world which became a constant source of 

inspiration. 

In 1995 I travelled with my friend and 

business partner Antonio Morescalchi to 

Mendoza, Argentina, for the first time. I fell 

in love with high-altitude old Malbec vines. 

At the time they were not appreciated by 

local producers – their focus then was on 

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In that 

same year, I started a project with Morescalchi, 

Altos Las Hormigas, which 

pioneered the rediscovery of Malbec. 

A few years later, in 2007 in Uruguay, 

along with the family of Alejandro and 

Bettina Bulgheroni, I discovered amazing, 

decomposed granite bedrock called balasto 

in the Maldonado region – so we developed 

the Garzon project. This really put Tannat 

on the map, reappraising the potential of 

this beautiful grape. In 2008, still with the 

Bulgheroni family, probably came the 

greatest discovery at the end of the wine 

world in Sarmiento, Patagonia, Argentina. 

Again, I was struck by an amazing limestone 

terroir which encouraged me to plant 

this southernmost vineyard, taking a big 

WINE IS THE MAGICAL 

COMBINATION OF THE 

THREE: SOIL, VINES 

AND CLIMATE. 

ALBERTO ANTONINI 

OENOLOGIST AND CONSULTANT 

Alberto Antonini studied viticulture and 

oenology in Italy, France and the US and has 

consulted the world over. He is the co-founder 

of the Matura Group. He also runs his own 

wine estate, Poggiotondo in Tuscany where he 

lives with his family. 

risk but also achieving character and 

quality in the wines – mainly Pinot Noir 

and Chardonnay. 

In 2010, with Zorik and Yeraz Gharibian, 

I jumped back several thousand years 

to where everything started: Armenia. It 

has over 200 grape varieties, almost 

forgotten with very little known about 

them. Now we rediscover them: Areni, 

Sireni, Chilar, Garan Dmak, Voske Hat and 

others – an experience alongside rediscovering 

ancient winemaking techniques. 

In 2015, again with the Bulgheroni 

family and project manager Amelia Nolan, 

we rediscovered the soul of Barossa in 

South Australia on a farm called Alkina in 

Greenock with old Grenache vines. With 

the help of terroir specialist and friend 

Pedro Parra we found amazing sites of 

schist and limestone that we keep separate 

to make single-lot wines; pure expressions 

of the magical combination of the three: 

soil, vines and climate. With non-invasive 

farming we ended up with a flavour profile 

very far from most Barossa wine and yet 

probably the most Barossa wines ever… 

Working in so many different wine 

regions in two worlds, the old and the new, 

I discovered that geology does not know 

the difference between them, that terroirs 

and biodiversity are everywhere. I am very 

happy to have given a small contribution to 

making the wine world wider, more diverse 

and exciting. I am aware that what we are 

drinking is probably no more than 20 

percent of what Mother Nature can offer 

us in terms of places and grape varieties. 

matura.net – poggiotondowines.com < 

Photo: Poggiotondo Wines 


wine / CHIANTI CLASSICO 

Chianti Classico has come a long way. Over 

the past three decades it has steadily aimed 

for quality and introduced a top tier category 

for its best wines called Gran Selezione. 

WORDS OTHMAR KIEM 

QUALITY REVOLUTION 

IN CHIANTI 

CLASSICO 

Photo: Getty Images 


The Tuscan landscape is of 

singular beauty. Each hill comes 

with its own aspect and altitude 

– and so do the vineyards. 

Now the wine labelling finally 

reflects this too. 

Florence 

Rome 

CHIANTI CLASSICO 

Italy 


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35


It was in 2013 that the top tier Chianti 

Classico Gran Selezione was introduced 

for the best wines of this 

historic region in Tuscany. Today, 

even those who would have turned 

their nose up at Chianti Classico in years 

gone by have taken note and are enthused 

by Gran Selezione. Now it is time for the 

next step in defining and refining this 

appellation. In June 2022, the Gran 

Selezione wines from the 2019 vintage will 

be released with a geographical indication 

– namely their village or zone of origin. 

The production zone of Chianti Classico 

– embedded in the incredibly appealing 

landscape of soft hills between Florence 

and Siena – was sub-divided into eleven 

geographical indications: San Casciano, 

Greve, Lamole, Montefioralle, Panzano, 

San Donato in Poggio (which includes the 

communes of Barberino Val d’Elsa, 

Tavarnelle and Poggibonsi), Gaiole, Radda, 

Castellina, Vagliagli and Castelnuovo 

Berardenga. A further refinement is the 

change of permitted grape varieties in Gran 

Selezione. The wines must now be made 

from at least 90 percent Sangiovese, 

Tuscany’s indigenous grape. If other grapes 

are used in the blend, this remaining ten 

percent must also be from traditional local 

varieties such as Canaiolo, Colorino or 

Malvasia Nera. International varieties like 

Cabernet, Merlot or Syrah are no longer 

permitted in this top tier. 

WHEN THE IDEA OF 

GEOGRAPHICAL 

INDICATIONS WAS 

FIRST FLOATED AT THE 

CONSORZIO 40 YEARS 

AGO, IT WAS MET WITH 

A STRICT “NO!” 

Castello di Ama 

is a so-called 

mediaeval borgo, 

or hamlet. It 

consists of a 

winery, a small 

hotel, restaurant 

and a remarkable 

art collection. 

Chianti Classico wines 

are based on Sangiovese, 

the indigenous grape 

variety of Tuscany. In the 

past, they were often 

blended with Cabernet 

Sauvignon or Merlot – 

today Sangiovese trumps 

in its own right and 

more and more Chianti 

Classico wines are made 

exclusively from this 

variety. 

36 falstaff 


The gorgeous landscape of the Chianti 

Classico zone is not just a source of 

excellent wine but also a place to escape 

to and leave the world behind. 

Photos: Alessandro Moggi, mauritius images / Alamy Stock Photos / Jaroslaw Pawlak, mauritius images / ClickAlps / Francesco Iacomino 

A STEADY ROUTE 

Many protagonists have helped to shape 

the route towards Gran Selezione. It was in 

1962 that Fabrizio Bianchi at his Castello 

di Monsanto estate made a single-vineyard 

wine in the area, his Chianti Classico Riserva 

Vigneto Il Poggio. Today his daughter 

Laura Bianchi runs the estate, and the most 

important wine still is Vigneto Il Poggio 

which has been labelled Gran Selezione 

since the 2014 vintage. Various vertical 

tastings over the past years have shown 

what an impressive and long-lived wine it 

is. Lorenza Sebasti and Marco Pallanti of 

THE NEW SUBZONES 

OF CHIANTI 

CLASSICO EXPRESS 

THE DIFFERENCES 

WITHIN THE REGION – 

AND THIS DIVERSITY 

IS DEPICTED IN 

THE WINES. 

Castello di Ama’s 

Bellavista wine 

was amongst the 

first single-site 

wines of Chianti 

Classico – today 

the exquisite wine 

is labelled as Gran 

Selezione. 

Castello di Ama in Gaiole are also pioneers 

of single-site wine in Chianti Classico. 

They made their first single-vineyard wine 

in 1982 from the Bellavista site. This was 

followed in 1985 by La Casuccia. There 

were a number of vintages in which wines 

from San Lorenzo and Bertinga were made 

as well – but they are no longer part of the 

range. Sebasti and Pallanti have been enthusiactic 

supporters of the Gran Selezione 

project from the start. Their Bellavista and 

Casuccia wines were amongst the first to 

use the Gran Selezione designation. 

Paolo de Marchi of Isole e Olena initially 

was a sceptic. At the very first presentation 

of Gran Selezione wines in 2013, he declared 

that he did not intend to offer such a 

wine – but then showed his Gran Selezione 

2006 which had matured for a long time 

in his cellars and was to become a worthy 

companion to his famous flagship wine 

Cepparello. The Gran Selezione category 

thus really spurred winemakers and estates 

on. Today, a total of 180 wines are sold 

under this designation and new wines are 

added each year – a figure proudly reported 

by Giovanni Manetti, president of the local 

Consorzio. As the owner of Fontodi estate 

in Panzano, Manetti heads one of the most 

renowned estates in Chianti Classico. He 

took over the reins from his father in the 

late 1970s. 

< 


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37


Manetti then got the young oenologist 

Franco Bernabei on board and together 

they proceeded to make wines that made the 

world sit up and listen: all of a sudden there 

was Chianti Classico that was really good. 

A little later, they launched their single-vineyard 

wine Vigna del Sorbo, at the time it 

was designated Riserva, today it is a Gran 

Selezione – and finally they presented their 

famous Flaccianello – a pure Sangiovese and 

one of Tuscany’s most sought-after wines. 

Giovannella Stianti Mascheroni turned 

Volpaia in Radda into the well-regarded 

winery it is. Today she is supported by her 

children Federica and Nicolò in running 

the estate. In the 1980s, when regulations 

did not yet permit that Chianti Classico 

could be made exclusively from Sangiovese, 

Stianti Mascheroni resolutely made her 

100 percent Sangiovese wine Coltassala. 

Regulations finally changed in 1996 and 

Coltassala was labelled as Chianti Classico 

Riserva – today it is labelled as Gran Selezione. 

For a few years now, Coltassala has 

been joined by Volpaia’s Il Puro Casanova, 

another excellent Chianti Classico Gran 

Selezione. Further south in Gaiole, where 

the Chianti Classico zone has wider vistas 

and Montalcino can be glimpsed in the distance, 

the Ricasoli family runs Castello di 

Brolio. Their 250ha/618 acres of vineyards 

have been completely replanted over the 

past 30 years and subdivided into single 

parcels. This effort is now crowned by four 

separate Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 

wines. There is the Castello di Brolio, 

a selection of all Ricasoli sites, then there 

are three single-vineyard wines: Colledilà 

grown on alberese soils (weathered limes- 

Lush green vines cover 

the rolling hills near 

Panzano in Chianti. 

< 

THE CREATION 

OF THE GRAN 

SELEZIONE CATEGORY 

HAS ADDED REAL 

INTEREST TO CHIANTI 

CLASSICO AND 

ATTRACTED NEW FANS. 

Inset: The famous gallo nero, 

or black cockerel, is the 

emblem of Chianti Classico. 

Below: A place of happiness, 

the historic cellar at Volpaia 

houses wines that date back 

to the 1960s. 

Photos: Getty Images/Atlantide Phototravel, Shutterstock, Volpaia, Società Agricola Querciabella, Antinori, PISTOLESI Andrea / hemis.fr 

38 falstaff 


Highly commendable: 

Querciabella farms according 

to biodynamic principles. 

tone, Roncicone, grown on fossil limestone 

and CeniPrimo, grown on well-drained 

alluvial soils. There are just a few kilometres 

between the sites, yet these wines show 

distinct character. 

A WHOLE NEW DIVERSITY 

The Mazzei family at Castello di Fonterutoli 

also produce four different Gran Selezione 

wines – three of them grown on the 

ancestral estate. Not only do they hail from 

three different sites but from three different 

communes that converge at Fonterutoli. 

The grapes for the Castello di Fonterutoli 

wine grow close to the winery in Castellina 

in Chianti. The Vicoregio 36 Gran Selezione 

hails from the commune of Vagliagli and 

expresses a more southerly warmth. Badiòla 

Gran Selezione grows at an altitude of 

570m/1,870ft in the commune of Radda. 

Then there is the Chianti Classico Gran 

Selezione Ipsus from the Il Caggio estate in 

Castellina that the Mazzei family bought in 

2006 – all four of them are made from 100 

percent Sangiovese grapes – tasting them is 

like taking a trip through Chianti Classico. 

The Querciabella estate sits on a plateau 

above the town of Greve and started 

< 

TUSCANY’S BIG 

PLAYERS, LIKE 

ANTINORI, RICASOLI 

AND MAZZEI, GIVE 


GRAN SELEZIONE 

THEIR FULL BACKING. 

converting its vineyards to biodynamic 

farming methods twenty years ago. A great 

decision, as oenologist Manfred Ing reports 

with pride. For years now Querciabella 

has focused on the production of Chianti 

Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva. At 

the beginning of 2022, they also presented 

a Gran Selezione for the first time – from 

the 2017 vintage. 

The biggest player of Tuscan wine, Marchesi 

Antinori, is also fully convinced by 

the Gran Selezione category. Their Badia a 

Passignano wine has been labelled as Gran 

Selezione from the 2009 vintage onwards 

(but released later). Renzo Cotarella, general 

director at Antinori says: “The Badia a 

Passignano Gran Selezione is the continuation 

of our ambitious course for quality 

which began with Tiganello. In the 1970s 

it was not yet possible to make wines exclusively 

from Sangiovese. Today, thanks to 

much better clonal selections, we can make 

great wines from 100 percent Sangiovese.” 

Much is afoot in Chianti Classico – and 

from June 2022 onwards, the new geographical 

indications will only make the Gran 

Selezione category even more diverse. 

A wonderful prospect. 

< 

An aerial view of 

Antinori’s Badia a 

Passignano – this is 

where the fine wines 

mature in deep cellars. 

In striking contrast 

to the old abbey, 

Antinori has built a 

new winery nearby – a 

model of contemporary 

architecture. 


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39


BEST OF 


98 

IPSUS CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN 

SELEZIONE DOCG 2018 

Il Caggio, Castellina 

Bright, rich ruby colour. Opens on 

the nose with notes of cranberry 

and plum, followed by fine salty 

notes, some dried tomato. Enormously 

energetic on the palate, lots 

of finely woven tannin, compact fruit, 

great tension, very long finish, 

powerful, but also with great drinking 

flow. 

ipsus.it 

••••• 

97 

COLONIA CHIANTI CLASSICO 

GRAN SELEZIONE DOCG 2018 

Fèlsina, Castelnuovo Berardenga 

Bright, rich ruby red. Very intense 

and clearly delineated nose full of 

wild raspberries and blackberries, 

with overtones of cardamom, exciting. 

Substantial and dense on the 

palate, opens up with a lot of pithy 

tannin, rich, dark cranberry fruit, 

emphatically earthy notes in the 

finish of beetroot and cocoa. 

felsina.it 

•••• 

96 

VIGNETO LA CASUCCIA CHIANTI 

CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE 

DOCG 2018 

Castello di Ama, Gaiole 

Gleaming, intense ruby red. Very 

intense and complex nose, evoking 

violets, rose petals and Morello 

cherry, also nice blackberry. Juicy 

on the palate, opens with precise, 

very well placed tannins, long and 

profound, still has a long life ahead 

of it. 

castellodiama.com 

••••• 

96 

IL POGGIO CHIANTI CLASSICO 


Castello di Monsanto, Barberino 

Bright ruby colour. Opens with pronounced 

spicy notes, some cardamom 

and thyme, then juicy Morello 

cherries, plums and pomegranate, 

seems very fresh. On the palate, 

sturdy, densely meshed tannin, finely 

worked out fruit, shows very good 

tension, salty and with a long finish, 

earthy. 

castellodimonsanto.it 

•••• 

96 

CASASILIA CHIANTI CLASSICO 


Poggio al Sole, Tavarnelle 

Powerful, bright ruby with a fine 

garnet rim. Appealing, very intense 

and dense nose, full of blackberries 

and plums with overtones of leather. 

Powerful, with concentration on 

the palate, shows a lot of firm tannins, 

fine texture, hearty and fullbodied, 

still young, has a lot of 

potential. 

poggioalsole.com 

••• 

96 

COLLEDILÀ CHIANTI CLASSICO 


Ricasoli, Gaiole 

Glistening ruby colour with a light 

garnet shimmer. The nose shows 

fine, ripe fruit of plums, blackberries 

and dark cherries, in the background 

slightly earthy notes of black truffle. 

Firm texture on the palate, unfolds 

with smooth tannins that come with 

hints of wild raspberries, great tension. 

ricasoli.com 

••• 

97 

96 

96 

40 falstaff 

RONCICONE CHIANTI CLASSIO 


Ricasoli, Gaiole 

Bright ruby colour. Finely delineated 

nose with notes of raspberry, some 

strawberry, underlaid with fine spices, 

multi-layered. Intensely fresh 

fruit on the palate, unfolds with 

many layers of polished tannins, juicy, 

vivid fruit, long and profound, 

slightly smoky notes on the finish. 

ricasoli.com 

••• 


VIGNA DEL SORBO CHIANTI 


DOCG 2018 

Fontodi, Panzano 

Bright ruby colour with a dark core. 

Opens with notes of leather and 

liquorice, some cocoa, then lots of 

elderberries and blackberries, 

savoury macchia herbs in the background. 

Gripping and dense on the 

palate, beautifully developed fruit, 

juicy, gripping tannin with a fine 

texture. 

fontodi.com 

•••• 


• •• 

EUR •••• 

VIGNA CONTESSA LUISA CHIANTI 


DOCG 2018 

Villa Calcinaia, Greve 

Rich, bright ruby colour with a fine 

garnet shimmer. On the nose, black 

cherries and plums, a little liquorice 

in the background. Beautiful interplay 

on the palate, showing nicely 

developed, crisp cherry fruit as well 

as grippy, finely meshed tannin, long 

finish. 

conticapponi.it 

••• 



Photos: Wineries

HERE COMES 

THE SUN 

BABYLONSTOREN MOURVÈDRE ROSÉ 

Sun-kissed and windswept, this 

rosé honours the floral kingdom 

in which it was cultivated. 

It’s beautiful but tough – an ode 

to understated sophistication 

that’s strong yet subtle. 

babylonstoren.com 

Please sip responsibly

wine / SOUTH AFRICA 

WHEN THE 

LAND SPEAKS 

South Africa’s wine industry is both old and young. Vines have been grown 

in the Cape since the 17th century, but the story of provenance-driven, 

single-vineyard wines – especially from Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay – 

is much more recent but no less enthralling. 

WORDS MALU LAMBERT 

Photo: mauritius images / Alamy / Garey Lennox 


Waves crash into rocky 

headlands at the Robberg 

Nature Reserve on South 

Africa’s Garden Route, an 

area steeped in history. 

SOUTH AFRICA 

Africa 


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43


South Africa’s wind-ravaged, 

mountainous Western Cape – at 

the jagged edge of a great 

continent – is a place that has 

been haunted by the icy, tempestuous 

Atlantic since time immemorial. Its 

wines, sprung from geology and the eternal 

onslaught of weather, are inimitable. 

Originally named the Cape of Storms by 

Portuguese explorers in the 1480s, this 

exposed strip of land juts out into the 

ocean but has long made its peace with the 

extreme conditions. 

Its location on the fringe of the continent 

has given the Cape some of the world’s 

oldest soils. Above is a dominance of 

soaring peaks, like many giant creatures 

sleeping beneath the earth’s crust. Add it all 

up and you have a wine-producing region 

that can’t help but express its sense of 

place. Some wines shout, like the fleshy, 

sun-kissed Chenins of the Breedekloof; or 

whisper, like the nervy, salty Sauvignons of 

Agulhas. Or ignore you altogether, like the 

cool, limpid Chardonnays of the Overberg. 

These wines have something to say, and 

increasingly, winemakers are favouring a 

hands-off approach to allow the distinct 

character of a specific region to 

shine through. Nowhere 

is this most apparent 

than in single-vineyard 

wines. 

WINEMAKERS ARE 

FAVOURING A 

HANDS-OFF APPROACH 

TO ALLOW THE 

SPECIFIC CHARACTER 

OF A REGION TO SHINE 

THROUGH. 

There are currently 1,731 registered 

single-vineyard sites in South Africa, 

right across the varietal spectrum. 

When we talk about South 

African wine though, the 

conversation starts with 

Corlea Fourie, head 

winemaker at Bosman 

Family Vineyards (left). 

Sunset over vineyards 

near Stellenbosch on 

the Western Cape. 

Photos: Peartree Photography, Shutterstock, RODGER BOSCH / AFP / picturedesk.com, Tasha Seccombe Photography 


Zebras roam over 

the plains in the 

Western Cape 

flanked by jagged 

mountains. 

Chenin Blanc. For centuries this Loire-born 

white grape, whose arrival in South Africa 

can be traced back to the 17th century, has 

been used as a base for brandies and bulk 

wines. It is still the country’s most widely 

planted grape; it is in fact more planted 

here than anywhere else – and the wines 

are increasingly fine. 

VINES DREAMING DEEP 

A winter hush lay over the Wellington 

valley, a gauzy mist draped like a veil 

across sloping hills, verdant with the 

season’s incessant rain. The vineyards 

fanning over the slopes, free of their 

summer canopies, slumbered in the cold. 

I had come here to find a grand dame, a 

Chenin Blanc vineyard called Optenhorst, 

planted in 1952. Is there a better time to 

visit a vineyard, to understand it, than 

when it lies dormant? The pomp and 

flamboyance of leaves and grapes is 

stripped away to reveal what lies beneath. 

Wellington has a long history of wine 

farming, and importantly in vine propagati- 

HEAD WINEMAKER 

CORLEA FOURIE 

HALTED THE GRUBBING 

UP, SUGGESTING “LET 

ME GIVE IT A TRY”. 

A quintessential Cape landscape with old bush 

vines, rooted in deep red sand over clay. 

on. The region supplies up to 85 percent of 

the Cape’s vine cuttings, known as stokkies, 

which come from the Bosman Adama 

Nursery, a branch of Bosman Family 

Vineyards. They have been farming in 

Wellington for eight generations. It was the 

Bosman family who took custodianship of 

Optenhorst when they bought a neighbouring 

farm. They did not know what riches 

they had acquired: Optenhorst was due to 

be uprooted, it was very old and haasbek, 

which literally means gap-toothed, where 

vines had died. Head winemaker Corlea 

Fourie halted the grubbing up, suggesting 

to the Bosmans: “Let me give it a try.” 

The name Optenhorst means ‘perched on 

top of a hill’, as the bushvine site sprawls 

over a mound, overlooking the valley, the 

town’s historic white church in the distance. 

I walked with winemaker Natasha 

Williams to a stone monument at its centre. 

Williams, who has since taken over the 

making of this wine from Fourie, uncorked 

a bottle of the 2019. The scent of honeyed 

fruit and oranges joined the electric 

< 


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45


< 

scent of the rain-sodden earth all 

around us. “You know when Optenhorst is 

in the cellar, she’s a lady that makes her 

presence known,” Natasha says. “You get 

the feeling that this vineyard is exactly 

where it’s meant to be, it has this unmistakable 

fragrance of honey that we just don’t 

find anywhere else.” 

SINGLE EXPRESSION 

Mick and Jeanine Craven have been 

making Craven Wines since 2013 – always 

from single vineyards and single varieties. 

Their winemaking is equally transparent 

with as little intervention as possible. The 

wines respond to this hands-off approach 

by delivering a resonant purity of fruit. The 

Cravens work exclusively in Stellenbosch, 

mostly in the Polkadraai Hills, seeking out 

special sites on the outskirts from the more 

famous areas. Though they don’t own any 

vineyards, they work closely with the grape 

growers. “Farmers themselves are an 

important part of terroir,” says Mick when 

I meet him for a walk in Karibib, a farm 

where he sources his Chenin of the same 

name. Our boots dig into the mud as we 

walk up the steep incline, rising to 

60m/197ft to 400m/1,312ft above sea level. 

Half-trellised, half-bushvine, it is a peculiar 

looking vineyard. “It’s called a radial 

bushvine,” says Mick. “The vineyard had 

previously been farmed for sweet wine 

production, and the farmer was happy that 

we wanted to make dry wine out of it. With 

a little bit of attention we had a special 

block on our hands.” 

Mick says the vineyards in the Polkadraai 

give them what they’re looking for in 

their wines – a saline, savoury character, 

born from weathered granite soils and the 

light intensity of the morning sun that the 

block receives. 

THESE CUTTINGS 

TRAVELLED 

ACROSS THE OCEAN IN 

CHOCOLATE BOXES, 

CHILDREN’S NAPPIES 

AND IN THE LINING 

OF JACKETS 

An old 

bushvine at 

the Bosman 

estate. 

He points out vines used by other exciting 

young gun producers such as Lukas 

van Loggerenberg and Reenen Borman. 

“This place has an amazing soul and energy 

that other, better-known areas seem 

to lack. There’s a rising community of 

like-minded wine people here in the Polkadraai, 

which I think adds to the sense of 

place of the wines being made.” 

SMUGGLER’S REWARD 

To find the original home of Chardonnay 

in Africa, we veer away from the ocean and 

go further inland, to the limestone pockets 

of the Robertson Wine Valley. Chalky soils 

are rarely found in South African vineyards 

but as luck would have it, it is on this land 

that pioneer Danie de Wet of De Wetshof 

was reared. Danie studied winemaking and 

viticulture at Geisenheim in Germany, the 

country’s foremost viticultural school. This 

is where his desire was born to see Chardonnay 

thrive in South Africa – at a time 

when white grape varieties were basically a 

OLD VINES 

South Africa has a dedicated 

programme to protect its 

ancient vineyards 

A WOMAN WITH A MISSION 

Rosa Kruger is one of South Africa’s foremost 

viticulturists. Inspired by visits to European 

vineyards and wines that often make much of 

the claim of being made from old vines – just 

think of all the French bottles proclaiming 

Vieilles Vignes on the label – Kruger asked 

herself where the old vines were in South 

Africa. Surely, a country with a vine history 

dating back to the 17th century must have 

some old vines? 

THE OLD VINE PROJECT 

It was in 2002 that Kruger started recording 

the names of the farms and sites that still had 

old vines – they are less productive in terms of 

yield than newer plantings, so many had been 

grubbed up. Initially, this was real detective 

work, requiring the input of many farmers and 

viticulturists, but slowly Kruger’s idea gained 

traction and the list grew. In 2006, her idea 

inspired winemaker Eben Sadie to release 

the first wine under his “Old Vineyard Series”. 

By 2016, Kruger’s idea was formalised as the 

“Old Vine Project” with “the mandate to save 

and preserve South African vineyards”. As of 

2018, wines produced from vineyards 35 years 

or older come with a certified heritage seal. 

Photos: Bosman, S PHOTOGRAPHY, De Wetshof Estate 


monoculture destined for brandy production. 

“The soils, plus the diurnal temperature 

swings and cooling, southerly winds added 

to my conviction it would work here,” de 

Wet explains. 

The variety was not yet approved for cultivation 

by the wine authorities, a process 

which back then could take upwards of ten 

years. But de Wet did not want to wait. 

“My friend and Stellenbosch winemaker 

Jan Boland Coetzee was working for 

Joseph Drouhin in Burgundy at the 

beginning of the 1980s. I asked him to 

procure some vine-cuttings which he did 

from Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches vineyard 

in Beaune.” 

These cuttings travelled across the 

ocean in chocolate boxes, 

children’s nappies and in 

the lining of 

< 

De Wetshof Estate in the Robertson Wine Valley was one 

of the pioneers of Chardonnay in South Africa. 

Danie de Wet’s son Peter (above) is now the winemaker. 


falstaff 

47


< 

jackets. Various other producers were 

also smuggling material, some more 

successfully than others (there was some 

fraudulent Auxerrois). In 1987, de Wet 

planted one of the first Chardonnay 

vineyards on De Wetshof, producing the 

estate’s flagship wine, Bateleur. “I love 

seeing the excitement and commitment of 

the younger generation of Chardonnay 

producers,” de Wet says. “They understand, 

more than my generation did, the importance 

of site and a sense of place.” 

GOING UP RIVER 

Leading the pack in the making of modern 

Cape Chardonnay are Craig and Anne Wessels 

of Restless River. Theirs is not a 

generational story: in a bid to get away 

from city life and give their children 

country air to breathe, they bought a farm 

in the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley in the 

early 2000s. They slowly and painstakingly 

IT IS A LIQUID 

ATLAS OF UNIQUE 

PLACES, PEOPLE 

AND THEIR STORIES 

built up their winery; their first vintage in 

2004 was made in the makeshift facility of 

a children’s toy house. 

Their wines have won critical acclaim, 

notably the single-vineyard Ava Marie 

Chardonnay. Named after their daughter, 

the site measures just two hectares and is 

planted on clay and decomposed granite. 

Self-taught winemaker Wessels is obsessive. 

The Hemel-en-Aarde is known for its cool 

growing conditions and naturally cold-retaining 

clay soils, imbuing the wines with 

both depth and elegance. The Ava Marie 

is a consummate manifestation of this. 

Wessels says he follows a no-till farming 

regime. “Perfect vineyards may look great 

in photos” he says, “but the wine is seldom 

special.” 

Yet, South Africa has special wines in 

abundance. I’ve been fortunate to taste 

many single-vineyard wines and visit their 

sites, from Stellenbosch to Swartland and 

beyond. It is a liquid atlas of unique places, 

people and their stories. But perhaps for the 

most expressive wines Huilkrans Chenin 

Blanc from Alheit Vineyards stands out. 

This wine showed me the meaning of 

luminosity. Pure crystalline fruit with an 

electric acidity described its place of origin 

as if it were a photograph: old vines in the 

Skurfberg on an isolated mountain outpost 

with a cliff that weeps when it rains. A 

vivid and stark place of raw, natural beauty 

somehow captured in a bottle that can now 

travel the world. If that’s not magic, I don’t 

know what is. 

Mountains and vines. A panoramic view of rows of vines with the craggy, 

cloud-laced mountains for which the region is known in the background. 

Photo: David Silverman/Getty Images, Producers 


BEST OF 

SINGLE VINEYARD WHITES 

Up to EUR / GBP 15 and USD 20 

• 

EUR •••• •• 

97 

2018 AVA MARIE CHARDONNAY 

Restless River Wines 

Upper Hemel-en-Aarde 

Full of life and vitality. There’s real 

energy, tension and focus. Natural 

fermentation and maturation in oak 

as well as in amphora and stainless 

steel showcases the vivid fruit. 

Clean, lemon-lime, gunpowder, flint 

and peach-stone spice. Mineral and 

weighted on the palate, an undercurrent 

of soft lemon curd, tangy 

and fresh with a proper stony acidity 

and length for days. 

••• 

97 

2020 THE 1947 CHENIN BLANC 

Kaapzicht Wine Estate 

Bottelary, Stellenbosch 

Atmospheric. The sensation of a 

cloudburst. Crafted from 73-yearold 

bush vines. Inviting aromas of 

white peach, lemon flesh, wet 

thatch and crushed cardamom. On 

the palate a fluidity of cinnamon 

and custard, peaches and cream. A 

bright, focused, lemony acidity 

refreshes and lifts. Wonderfully 

complex and textured, firing on all 

cylinders. 

••• 

97 

2019 HUILKRANS CHENIN BLANC 

Alheit Vineyards 

Skurfberg, Citrusdal Mountain 

Whole bunch juice is very lightly settled 

with no additions to the raw, 

cloudy juice. Natural fermentation in 

old 300l barrels follows. Pear skin, 

yellow apple, red earth, pear and ginger 

flower before a palate of crystalline, 

citrus sapidity and a gravelly 

minerality. Energetic and luminous 

with brightly layered acidity. 

•••• 

96 

2019 OPTENHORST CHENIN 

BLANC, Bosman Family Vineyards 

Wellington 

Top notes of floaty orange blossom, 

citrus zest and smoked honey. On 

the palate the fruit is orange-toned 

and fleshy, tangy apricot and nectarine, 

underlaid by pear and pith. The 

French oak is well judged for the 

concentrated flavour profile. A line 

of stony acidity and hints of the tropics 

draw into a long, fruit-driven 

finish. 

•• 

96 

2017 CLOS DU CIEL 

CHARDONNAY, Longridge Estate 

Helderberg, Stellenbosch 

From the highest vineyard on Longridge 

Estate, a 30-year-old bushvine 

site. Aromatics of baked yellow 

apples, lemon verbena, wet stone 

and smoky hints of almond brittle. 

Light-footed and full of grace, the 

palate is long and fine, with gorgeous 

white pear on the lingering 

finish. 

•••• 

95 

2019 EDEN HIGH DENSITY 

SINGLE VYD. CHENIN BLANC 

Raats Family Wines 

Polkadraai, Stellenbosch 

Ginger spice, mandarin, lemon tart, 

honeysuckle and ripe lime. Gregarious 

and robust aromatics. Cool 

sliced melon, waxy apples and pineapple 

on the tangy, concentrated 

palate. Mouth coating, rich and 

pithy. So focused and precise, a line 

of tension along savoury acids 

makes this a very accomplished 

wine indeed. 

••• 

EUR / GBP 15 – 30 and USD 20 – 35 EUR / GBP 31 – 50 and USD 36 – 60 

/ GBP 51 – 100 and USD 

•• 

61 – 110 above EUR / GBP ••••• ••• 

100 and USD 110 

94 

2019 STELLENBOSCH 

CHARDONNAY, Leeu Passant 

Wines, Helderberg, Stellenbosch 

Inspired by the original Cape Chardonnays, 

grapes sourced from a 

unique site on Stellenbosch’s Helderberg 

Mountain. Flinty, struck 

match, oyster shell and a sea breeze 

saltiness on the nose, followed 

by peach and citrus on the palate. 

Concentrated and driven with a cool 

acidity. Power and freshness in one 

delicious package. 

•••• 

93 

2018 BATELEUR CHARDONNAY 

De Wetshof Estate 

Robertson 

Richly evocative, like crushed white 

velvet. Preserved lemon, an exotic 

intensity of stone fruit and spice. 

Roasted nuts and toasty, buttery 

oak from maturation in new French 

oak. On the palate creamed pear, 

peach and grilled pineapple. Hedonistic 

but without sacrificing 

freshness, a textured mid-palate, 

and a cut citrus finish. 

••• 

93 

2020 KARIBIB CHENIN BLANC 

Craven Wines 

Polkadraai, Stellenbosch 

Yellow apple, chamomile and salty 

peach open the wine. There’s a kind 

of brazen purity about it, almost 

audacious in its clarity. Lively white 

citrus on the palate, light but full of 

verve. A nicely savoury finish, appetising 

and fresh. 

• 


falstaff 

49

wine / BORDEAUX 

BORDEAUX 2019 

– THE GAME 

CHANGER 

Paris 

BORDEAUX 

France 

Château Angélus is 

one of the best and 

most prestigious 

estates in Saint- 

Émilion on the 

Gironde’s Right Bank. 

Photo: Deepix/Chateau Angelus 


More and more bottles of the 2019 

Bordeaux vintage are hitting the shelves. 

This time round it is worth paying closer 

attention. Rarely have the wines of the 

Gironde presented themselves with such 

allure, consistently high quality and 

exquisite value. 

WORDS PETER MOSER 


falstaff 

51


Bordeaux returns to the 

hearts of wine lovers 

with this vintage full of 

fruit, elegance and 

freshness. Those who 

have visited the Bordeaux winelands 

recently will have noticed it: a breath of 

fresh air sweeps through this distinguished 

region with its impressive châteaux. Of 

course, in terms of accessibility there still is 

some way to go until we see the kind of 

hospitality on offer in Napa Valley or 

Stellenbosch, where wine lovers can scoot 

from cellar door to tasting room and are 

welcomed like old friends who can – 

against payment of a commensurate fee 

– taste and explore the wines of the region. 

For the longest time, wine tourism was 

almost an alien concept for Bordelais 

châteaux. Visitors who had not been 

expressly invited simply were not welcome; 

buying wine at the estate was almost an 

absurd idea. And even if this is a slightly 

pointed way of putting it – this is the 

impression many visitors gained. 

To extract tannin and colour from the fermenting 

grapes, their juice is regularly pumped over. 

IT IS EVIDENT 

THAT THE 2019 

VINTAGE MAY 

WELL BE THE 

START OF A REAL 

TRANSITION. 

By now, however, more and more 

estates are open to private visitors, 

offer surprising tasting packages, 

informal restaurants and smart 

overnight stays. The various regions 

that come under the Bordeaux 

umbrella thus show themselves in an 

increasingly open and contemporary 

light. 

It is the same in vineyard and cellar, a 

whole new generation of winemakers have 

moved with the times and by now roughly 

a quarter of the famous estates in the 1855 

Classification are either already certified 

organic or in conversion, while many 

others farm according to biodynamic 

principles. Estates like Château Latour or 

Palmer are amongst those fully certified, 

while Château d’Yquem, Lafite Rothschild 

or Cos d’Estournel are in conversion – 

along with ten other top estates. Or look at 

the completely revamped packaging of the 

Lafite-owned sweet Sauternes wine 

Château Rieussec 2019 – it is evident that 

this vintage may well be the start of a real 

transition. 

The beautiful round barrel room 

at Château Lafite Rothschild is 

like a temple to Bordeaux. 

A MOST WINNING VINTAGE 

Seasoned observers may be inclined to 

quip: “Another vintage of the century? Not 

again!” But if one thing is certain, it is that 

the 2019 vintage moves at a truly high 

level. The science experts at the University 

of Bordeaux tasked with putting each 

vintage through the most stringent oenological 

tests – impartially – have come to the 

following conclusion: the 2019 vintage 

offers remarkable white wines, the sweet 

wines are precise and aromatic while the 

reds are expressive, juicy and delicious. The 

scene is thus set for lovers of Bordeaux 

wines. Cabernet Sauvignon, the region’s 

key variety, benefitted from the great 

conditions towards the end of the growing 

season and could be harvested at optimal 

ripeness. The wines from soils richer in clay 

are very good, perhaps not exquisite across 

the board in terms of concentration, but 

nonetheless show great fruit and fine 

tannins. On the best sites of deep gravel, 

Cabernet reaches world class; the wines 

from Pauillac are the prime example with 

their sheer consistency. As regards the 

release prices on La Place de Bordeaux, the 

network of distributors through which 

Photos:Danon-Boileau/Chateau Lafite, CFrançois Poincetbis, Clay McLachlan/Chateau Haut-Bailly 


BEST 

BORDEAUX 

For everyday drinking 

94 2019 HAUT-BAILLY II 

Pessac-Léognan 

Delicate nougat and herbs, fine nutty aromas, 

dark berries and some cassis. Full-bodied, ripe 

cherries, chocolate, well-integrated tannins, 

mineral, fine fruit expression on the finish, 

lingers, a most elegant food wine. 

••• 

94 2019 LE PETIT LION, LÉOVILLE- 

LAS-CASES, Saint-Julien 

Fine herbal spice, red forest fruit, a hint of 

oak, cherries and blueberries, a hint of iodine, 

typical Léoville Las Cases DNA on the nose. 

Juicy, red berry fruit, fresh and silky on the 

palate, fine tannins, mineral and salty, will 

benefit from bottle age. 

•••• 

93 2019 GRAND VIN DE REIGNAC ROUGE 

Bordeaux Supérieur 

Dark berries, some liquorice, tobacco nuances, 

herbs and candied orange zest. Full-bodied, 

elegant, ripe cherries, silky tannins, 

mineral, freshness and length, fine nougat on 

the finish, good ageing potential. 

•• 

93 BIO 2019 CLOS PUY ARNAUD 

Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 

Ripe dark berry fruit, a hint of liquorice, some 

cherry, fine tobacco spice, mineral touch. 

Complex, juicy, ripe cherry, carried by rounded 

tannins, shows length and ageing potential, 

complex food wine. Great value for money. 

•• 

93 2019 CHÂTEAU DALEM 

Fronsac 

Dark ruby colour, opaque core, purple reflections. 

Fine dark forest fruit, dark cherries, 

pleasant oak spice, candied orange zest. 

Juicy, elegant and full-bodied, ripe cherries, 

fine and supporting tannins, good freshness 

and minerality, lingers, some nougat, shows 

length and ageing potential. 

•• 

93 2019 CHÂTEAU COUHINS-LURTON 

ACTE II Pessac-Léognan 

Hints of oak and nougat, black cherries, delicate 

cassis and liquorice, tobacco nuances. 

Juicy, elegant, ripe cherries, well-integrated 

tannins, mineral finish, good freshness, elegant, 

delicious now but has ageing potential. 

••• 

Château Haut-Bailly is a Cru Classé of Graves in the Pessac-Léognan appellation. 

Left: Haut-Bailly also produces this affordable wine – perfect for everyday drinking. 

most wine is sold, the 

châteaux were quite 

clear-headed about the 

way things stood at the 

time – we are talking about 

early summer of 2020: Covid was the 

dominant theme, the markets in the UK, 

the US and Asia were saturated. A significant 

price cut was a means of choice. 

Amongst the classified growths in the 

Médoc, the PR darling of recent years, 

Château Pontet-Canet, volunteered as test 

pilot. By opening with a 30 percent 

discount on the previous year’s release 

prices, they made an offer that the market 

neither could nor wanted to refuse. 

Likewise, Château Lynch-Bages went down 

by 26 percent while first growth Lafite 

Rothschild made a concession of 16 

percent. Noblesse oblige. Mouton Rothschild 

went down by a full 31 percent 

compared to 2018 and distributors fought 

over their allocations – no wonder: they 

had been amongst the lucky few who had 

been able to taste the wines en primeur and 

knew what a bargain it really was. With a 

release price of €330 a bottle, super-elegant 

Château Margaux was down 19 percent on 

the 2018 price. 

ACROSS THE BOARD 

It was a similar story on the Right Bank, 

where alcohol levels – unlike in the Médoc 

– stayed at their usual elevated levels while 

the wines themselves came across as far 

more lively and thus much less opulent. 

Merlot-dominated Saint-Émilion brought 

forth numerous wines that are lush and 

readily accessible, the fine Pomerols are 

taut, tightly-woven and finely structured. 

Likewise, the red wines from the numerous 

satellite appellations of the Right Bank are 

similarly vivid. The words of Pierre-Olivier 

Clouet, technical director at Cheval Blanc, 

thus ring pleasantly: “2019 was the fifth 

rather warm vintage in a row and yet in 

< 


falstaff 

53


Architects at Château Cheval 

Blanc in Saint-Émilion have 

managed to combine ancient 

and modern to stunning effect. 

Inset: Barrel samples lined up 

for tasting at the blending table. 

< 

that year we made the 

freshest wine, perhaps 

the freshest ever made at 

the estate.” Compared to 

the wines of the 2018 

vintage, the Merlots from 

the Right Bank possess 

more acidity and come across 

in classic style. In Pessac-Léognan, 

south of the city of Bordeaux, 

where both dry white and red wines 

were made at the highest level, one can 

draw at will from a full and fine range. 

The 2019 vintage presented a rich harvest 

and really great wines are thus on 

offer across all categories and appellations. 

From Bordeaux AOC via Cru Bourgeois 

up into the realms of the famed names of 

the Grands Crus Classés – as a buyer you 

simply cannot go wrong, with one exception: 

missing out on this exceptional opportunity 

to dive into the fascinating world of 

Bordeaux. 

THE 2019 VINTAGE 

PRESENTED A RICH 

HARVEST. REALLY 

GREAT WINES ARE ON 

OFFER ACROSS ALL 

CATEGORIES AND 

APPELLATIONS. 

THROUGH THE YEAR 

It was Mother Nature who created the 

prerequisites for the success of this rather 

unusual vintage born before the pandemic. 

She meant well. Although there were still 

some very cold days in early January 2019, 

the spring was relatively mild overall. 

During the winter period, regular moderate 

precipitation ensured that the water 

resources in the soil were replenished. An 

important prerequisite, since 2019 turned 

out to be the warmest year on average since 

records began. Budbreak occurred at the 

end of March, beginning of April; about a 

week earlier than usual. After a short, cool 

and rainy phase in May, flowering proceeded 

evenly and quickly in the best conditions, 

setting the course for a high-yielding 

year. At the end of June, the weather 

changed and remained warm and stable, 

ensuring optimal conditions for a good and 

healthy ripening of the grapes, two short 

heat spikes in June and July did not affect 

Photos: Erick Saillet/Chateau Cheval Blanc, Cécile Burban, mauritius images / Photononstop / Stéphane Ouzounoff, Getty 

Images/Tim Graham 


REGULAR SMALL 

RAIN SHOWERS 

OPTIMALLY SUPPLIED 

THE VINES AND AIDED 

THE SYNTHESIS OF 

POLYPHENOLS IN THE 

BERRIES. 

Above: A bottle of Pétrus. Below: 

An old Merlot vine with simply perfect 

fruit at Château Pétrus in Pomerol. 

the grapes in any way. 

Regular small rain 

showers optimally 

supplied the vines and 

aided the synthesis of 

polyphenols in the 

grapes. The first red 

varieties started turning in 

July and by mid-August, 

véraison was already 

complete, again in optimal 

conditions. Harvest began in the 

Médoc appellation with the Merlots 

around 19 September, the northern 

regions such as Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe 

followed from 23 September onwards 

under blue skies. Towards the end of the 

month, there was still some rainfall which 

lowered the alcohol levels of the already 

fully ripe Cabernet Sauvignons somewhat 

but was especially beneficial to the 

vineyards with drier gravel soils. Finally, by 

the end of the second week of October, 

Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot were 

harvested in fine weather and showed 

remarkable finesse. 

< 

VINTAGE 

HIGHLIGHTS 

The stunning 2019 vintage 

presented some of the 

highest-scoring wines ever. 

VINTAGE 2019 BEST OF RIGHT BANK 

100 Château Cheval Blanc, St. Émilion 

100 Château Figeac, St. Émilion 

100 Pétrus, Pomerol 

100 Château Lafleur, Pomerol 

99 Château Beauséjour-Duffau-Lagarrosse, 

St. Émilion 

99 Château Pavie, St. Émilion 

99 Vieux-Château-Certan, Pomerol 

98 Château La Conseillante, Pomerol 

98 Château La Fleur-Pétrus, Pomerol 

98 Château Trotanoy, Pomerol 

VINTAGE 2019 BEST OF LEFT BANK* 

100 Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac 

100 Château Léoville-Las-Cases, Saint-Julien 

100 Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 

100 Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac 

99 Château Margaux, Margaux 

99 Château Cos d’Estournel, Saint-Estèphe 

98 Château Montrose, Saint-Estèphe 

98 Château Palmer, Margaux 

98 Château Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan 

98 Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan 

*Château Latour, Pauillac, also scored 100 

Falstaff points but was not sold en primeur 

and will only be released in ten years’ time. 

Heni blam qui beriorepra 

nobitaq uibusandi commodi 

sequis iliquia conet es 

molorum fugiand aectia 

sumquos aut ea vellam ea cor 

as ipsam untori 


falstaff 

55


< 

On the Right Bank, the 

situation mirrored Médoc: 

conditions were also excellent. The 

grapes ripened comparatively early; 

Château Cheval Blanc started with 

Merlot on 10 September and Cabernet 

Franc was already in the cellar before the 

rains at the end of the month. Other 

well-known wineries were still waiting 

with their Bouschet (Cabernet Franc) and 

only completed the red wine harvest 

around 10 October. The Right Bank has a 

whole phalanx of excellent wines from 

2019 that allow an authentic insight into 

the respective terroirs. 

Likewise in the south and south-east of 

Bordeaux, the vintage was also very 

successful. The warm temperatures 

produced rather opulent white wines with 

ripe fruit in Graves, which in one or two 

cases lacked a little of the liveliness that 

usually characterises the appellation. To 

maintain freshness, the white wine harvest 

was already in full swing at the end of 

August. The top estates of Pessac-Léognan, 

Above: Château Lafleur in 

Pomerol is a tiny property. 

Inset: Ripe Cabernet 

Sauvignon grapes. 

THIS VINTAGE JOINS 

THE RANKS OF THE 

MOST ELEGANT YEARS 

IN BORDEAUX, 

SHOWING FORM AND 

POSSESSING GREAT 

AGEING POTENTIAL. 

not only produced great reds but also 

outdid themselves with white; the grands 

crus of the region leave nothing to be 

desired. In the sweet wine appellations of 

Sauternes and Barsac, the summer drought 

had already taken on worrying features 

when on 26 July eagerly awaited rain 

brought a turn for the better. The rainfall 

and the warm weather from 20 September 

onwards finally set the noble rot in motion, 

but the harvesting of the grapes turned out 

to be complex and time-consuming because 

grey rot also set in. On 8 October, a dry 

and windy window of good weather 

opened up, and a large part of the sweet 

wine harvest could be brought in during 

this period. At Château d’Yquem, harvesting 

began on 10 October and within a 

few days most of the grand vin was in the 

cellar. The rains returned on 14 October 

and the more fragile terroirs were harvested 

during the breaks in the rainfall until 22 

October. The result is a powerful, super-elegant 

Yquem with enormous potential. In 

summary, the 2019 vintage is one of those 

rare vintages where almost everything came 

together. We can look forward to great qualities 

in all appellations and from red wines 

– both on the Left and Right Bank – via 

white to sweet wines. All the big and 

famous names have excellent wines on 

offer but so do a variety of less prominent 

names – and all at an exceptionally 

attractive price, offering great value. 

Jean-Hubert Delon, owner of châteaux 

such as Léoville-Las-Cases in Saint-Julien 

on the Left Bank and Château Nenin in 

Pomerol on the Right Bank, summed up the 

2019 vintage: “A delicious year that need 

not fear comparison with the very best. The 

picture was the same on both the Left and 

Right Bank: in every single phase, the 

grapes developed only towards perfection 

and gave the winemaker an outstanding 

harvest. Fruit of exquisite quality was 

available in abundance and was transformed 

into wines that have everything the 

consumer could wish for. They present 

themselves balanced, full-bodied, with a 

charming freshness and show a complex, 

pure and rich aromatic expression of their 

respective terroirs. 2019 joins the ranks of 

the most elegant years in Bordeaux, 

showing form and possessing great ageing 

potential.” 

Photos: mauritius images / Ivoha / Alamy / Alamy Stock Photos, Getty Images/ James Andanson, Wineries 


••••• 


• 

EUR •••• •• 

100 

2019 CHÂTEAU CHEVAL BLANC 

Saint-Émilion 

Fine exotic spice, ripe cherries and 

subtle hints of liquorice, some vanilla, 

clove and chocolate. Substantial, 

elegant, red berry notes, hints of 

raspberries and strawberries, fine 

spiciness, silky tannins, salty and 

incredibly freshly structured, juicy 

cherry dominates the finish, with 

nougat, caramel and mineral nuances, 

seems amazingly accessible, 

Cheval Blanc at its best. 

••••• 

100 

2019 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC 


Dark ruby, purple reflections. Nuances 

of oak, dark forest fruit, a hint of 

cassis and liquorice, fine tobacco 

nuances, spices, orange zest, still a 

little reserved. Complex, cherries, 

well-integrated tannins, mineral and 

lasting, elegant style with a fine 

fruity finish, salty aftertaste with 

delicate liquorice, immensely harmonious, 

absolute ageing potential, 

however, patience is required. Leave 

to mature. 

••••• 

100 

2019 CHÂTEAU LAFITE 

ROTHSCHILD 

Pauillac 

A hint of nougat, ripe cherries, a 

touch of cassis and oak, fresh orange 

zest, very inviting. Complex, substantial, 

ripe black cherry fruit, pleasant 

fruit expression, silky tannins, 

freshly structured, mineral, a hint of 

chocolate, already in this early state 

immensely seductive, great length, 

certain ageing potential, a wine of 

enormous charm and great finesse. 

BEST OF 

BORDEAUX 

100 

2019 CHÂTEAU LAFLEUR 

Pomerol 

Dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, 

subtle brightening on rim. 

Hints of oak, vanilla and tobacco, 

delicate dried herbs, floral nuances, 

blackberries and liquorice, very multi-faceted 

and suggestive, notes of 

nougat underneath. Juicy, ripe cherries, 

notes of blueberries, fine acidity, 

strong, perfectly integrated tannins, 

salty nuances on the finish, has 

superb length, will age and evolve 

for many years. 

••••• 

100 

2019 CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE- 

LAS-CASES 

Saint-Julien 

Fine oak, a hint of nougat, dark berries 

underneath, some cardamom, 

dark cherries, a hint of candied oranges. 

Powerful, taut, tightly-meshed, 

fresh acidity, spicy, supporting tannins, 

a hint of chocolate, convincing 

balance, mineral and very long lasting, 

cherries on the finish, a vin de 

garde, can also be tasted young 

when decanted, enormous potential. 

••••• 

100 

2019 CHÂTEAU MOUTON 

ROTHSCHILD 

Pauillac 

Fine dark berry fruit, a hint of cassis 

and liquorice, fresh tangerine zest, 

nuances of cedar, the bouquet exercises 

noble restraint. Complex, fullbodied, 

super elegant texture, fine 

expression, ripe, long, silky tannins, 

great density, ripe cherries, mineral, 

fine spice, convincing length, certain 

ageing potential, will enter maturity 

early, so be sure to stock up. 

••••• 

100 

2019 PÉTRUS 

Pomerol 

Dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, 

subtle brightening on rim. 

Ripe dark berry fruit, black cherries, 

a hint of dried rose petal, candied 

violets, delicate red nuances, some 

oak and black truffle in the background, 

opens up with more air in 

the glass. Complex, dark fruit, fine 

texture, ripe tannins, underpinned by 

a fine acidity structure, taut, mineral 

and long lasting, already endowed 

with convincing balance. 

••••• 

100 

2019 CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET 

Pauillac 

For the first time since 2011, the 

proportion of Merlot is somewhat 

higher, the bouquet thus more characterised 

by cherries than the usual 

cassis de Pauillac, delicate nougat, 

caramel, fine herbal spice. 

Powerful, tightly-meshed, chocolatey 

touch, ripe tannins, complexity, 

length and spice, very independent 

personality, a huge promise for the 

future. This wine has everything a 

world-class wine needs. 

••••• 

99 

2019 CHÂTEAU BEAUSÉJOUR- 

DUFFAU-LAGARROSSE 


Attractive dark berry confit, 

nuances of liquorice, floral notes, 

delicately mineral, a hint of orange 

zest, a fine bouquet. Juicy and elegant, 

with ripe cherries, full of energy 

and freshness, fine tannins, salty 

minerality, lemony touch on the 

finish, a really delicate style with 

enormous length and great ageing 

potential. 

••••• 


/ GBP 51 – 100 and USD 

•• 

61 – 110 above EUR / GBP ••••• ••• 

100 and USD 110 mar – jun 2022 falstaff 57

wine / GRÜNER VELTLINER 

GRÜNER 

GOES 

GLOBAL 

Austria’s favourite grape variety now thrives 

around the world. In places as far-flung as 

New Zealand, Canada, Oregon, Australia and 

California. Falstaff went to sniff them out. 

WORDS ANNE KREBIEHL MW WITH AUSTRIAN TASTING NOTES BY PETER MOSER 

Photo: Stocksy 


Grüner Veltliner is 

Austria’s calling card 

and most widely 

planted grape variety. 


falstaff 

59


Terraces of Grüner 

Veltliner line the hills of 

Kamptal in Austria. 

Few countries have a flagship like 

Grüner Veltliner – it is Austria’s 

calling card and unique selling 

point. It is the country’s most 

planted grape variety and in the 

wine world its name is synonymous with 

Austria and vice versa. Yet it has fans 

around the world who were determined to 

plant it, just to see how it would fare way 

beyond the valleys of the Danube River. 

GRÜNER’S NATURE 

You can see why someone might want to 

plant this Austrian original. It thrives in 

numerous soils. It ripens in the cooler 

reaches of Austria’s northernmost region, 

the Weinviertel, but also basks in the deeply 

continental summer heat of the south-facing 

slopes that line much of the Danube 

River and its tributaries. It can be cropped 

generously for easy-drinking wines that 

slake your thirst or make distinct, expressive 

and long-lived wines when yields are 

restricted. Andreas Wickhoff MW of 

Weingut Bründlmayer, one of the world’s 

benchmark producers of Grüner, sums it 

up: “Our most widely planted quality grape 

enjoys the country’s moderately cool 

climate, the continental winds from the 

Bohemian massif and loess-dominated soils, 

Freshly picked crates of 

Grüner Veltliner, all ready to 

be taken to the winery to be 

crushed and fermented. 


Photos: ÖWM/WSNA, Getty Images/ Pierre Longnus, Shutterstock, John Krüger/Adelaide Hills Wine 

but it can also cope with poorer soil types. 

As a thick-skinned variety, it can handle 

our varied vintage conditions and impresses 

with its massive diversity, from 

pleasantly nimble examples to highly 

complex cru wines.” 

SAGE, SOY AND PEPPER 

In flavour and taste, there are two defining 

characteristics: savouriness and texture. 

When tasting Grüner Veltliner, there is 

often pepperiness because the variety has 

above-average levels of rotundone, a sesquiterpene 

that gives pepper its flavour. 

Cooler regions or cooler vintages are often 

intensely peppery. Warmer vintages and 

regions can present a salty savouriness 

reminiscent of soy sauce, dried sage, fennel 

seed and wild thyme. Then there is 

mouthfeel: Grüner always comes with 

texture and this is what makes it such a 

killer at the table. No wonder winemakers 

are smitten. 

EARLY ADOPTERS: OREGON 

The US state of Oregon has always 

had a pioneering spirit and the Fords 

of Illahe Vineyards planted Grüner 

Veltliner as early as 1988 – long 

before it became fashionable. 

“We were among the first two 

vineyards to plant Grüner Veltliner 

in Oregon for commercial use. We 

put our first plants in the ground in 

1988,” says Brad Ford. “We planted 

Grüner at the urging of a Hungarian 

neighbour, and ex-fighter pilot in the 

Hungarian air force who had come to the 

US through Austria as a refugee. He had 

fallen in love with Grüner in Austria and 

felt that Oregon would be the perfect place 

to grow the grape. He gave us the cuttings.” 

Brad’s father Lowell trialled various 

varieties and vinified them in small batches. 

“Usually ten to fifteen gallons of eight 

different wines,” he says. “Some produced 

wonderful wine and others were less 

successful. But some made great, terrific 

wine. Grüner Veltliner was one that 

produced an outstanding white wine with 

structure, flavour and smell.” By now, the 

Fords have sussed the grape out: “It always 

achieves ripeness in this climate. The trick 

to its final flavour is the picking date. In 

the winery, the green juice develops slowly 

in stainless tanks and acacia oak barrels.” 

Brad remarks on Grüner’s “mild, grassy, 

saline flavour” and captures something 

central about this variety’s character: “Our 

Hungarian friend was right. This is the 

perfect climate and place for Grüner. It is 

fun when it is both a serious and not-serious 

wine – for all occasions from Christmas 

dinner to baseball games.” 

GRÜNER ALWAYS 

COMES WITH 

TEXTURE, MAKING 

IT A KILLER AT THE 

TABLE. NO WONDER 

WINEMAKERS ARE 

SMITTEN. 

CANADA 

Further north, across the border in Canada, 

in the Okanagan Valley, Culmina Family 

Estate Winery also was Grüner-curious. 

“The ultimate goal in planting our Margaret’s 

Vineyard in 2011 was to plant what 

was suited to the area. While no other 

producer had planted Grüner Veltliner at 

that time, we saw some similarities of soil 

type, temperature and elevation with wine 

growing regions in Austria,” says Maryke 

Vandermarel. “Ultimately, the decision to 

plant Grüner Veltliner was an experiment. 

With no previous knowledge of how 

Grüner would perform in the Okanagan, 

we’ve been able to approach this grape 

with a blank slate and have been able to 

take the time to find our style. We have 

found that, in our spot in the Okanagan, 

Grüner Veltliner is quite full bodied with 

lots of melon and grapefruit aromatics.” 

DOWN UNDER 

Around the same time, in 2010, Larry 

Jacobs of Hahndorf Hill in Australia’s 

Adelaide Hills made his first Grüner 

Veltliner, having been the first to plant the 

variety in 2006. “My main reason for planting 

it, besides the fact that I was 

The idyllic hills and vineyard rows of the Adelaide Hills, framed by Australia’s famous gum trees. 

< 


falstaff 

61


The sea breezes of California’s 

Central Coast are perfect for Grüner 

Veltliner. Inset: Natalie Christensen 

of Yealands in Marlborough. 

< 

smitten by Austrian examples, was that 

our climatic conditions are surprisingly 

similar to those found in Lower Austria, 

but especially when compared to the 

Kamptal region,” he says. “Add to this our 

ancient soils of metamorphic rocks...I 

dreamt that we could become a far outpost 

for this glorious and noble white variety.” 

Jacobs’ dream was not far-fetched since 

there are now more than 35 different 

Grüner labels in Adelaide Hills. There is 

even a “GGG” – a Grüner Growing Group. 

AOTEAROA 

Across the Tasman Sea, in New Zealand, 

the climate, while mostly maritime, also 

seems suited to Grüner’s predilections. 

Coopers Creek was the first to plant 

Grüner in New Zealand, in Gisborne. 

Yealands in Marlborough have produced 

Grüner Veltliner since 2012. “We’ve always 

been open to trialling new varieties,” says 

winemaker Natalie Christensen. She stresses 

the influence of the alluvial soils: “The 

Awatere Valley’s mineral character brings 

beautiful texture and length to our Grüner.” 

This is also what she strives for in her 

winemaking: “We try to build texture 

through alternative fermentation vessels 

like concrete egg and large format oak 

ovals. We like it to be vibrant, making it 

with a stainless steel tank component 

brings energy to the palate.” Rudi Bauer, 

the Austrian-born winemaker of Quartz 

Reef in Central Otago has made Grüner 

since 2012, the first in the region. His high 

expectations meant that he never released 

any wine until his 2016 vintage – but his 

current vintages are spot-on. 

I DREAMT THAT WE 

COULD BECOME A FAR 

OUTPOST FOR THIS 

GLORIOUS AND NOBLE 

WHITE VARIETY. 

LARRY JACOBS HAHNDORF HILL 

CALIFORNIA 

Back in America, Graham 

Tatomer is one of Grüner’s most 

vocal advocates: “I love the grape,” 

he says of his plantings in California’s 

Central Coast. Tatomer worked vintage 

in Austria, with another benchmark 

producer, Emmerich Knoll, in the Wachau 

and has made Grüner in California since 

2010. His vineyards are no problem but 

the market is more complicated. “My 

Veltliners have done well in high-end 

restaurants, especially on tasting menus at 

Eleven Madison Park in New York and 

A.O.C. in Los Angeles. Retail has been 

much more difficult. It’s really down to the 

producers to spread the word about the 

grape among consumers.” 

GRÜNER LOVERS UNITE 

Outside Austria, there are just tiny pockets 

of this versatile variety. It took courage to 

defy the norm of planting well-known 

international grape varieties and go for a 

niche one instead. Its umlaut and name 

may hamper it on shop shelves, but once 

Grüner is in the glass, the case for this 

arch-Austrian grape becomes clear. Let’s 

see where it will sprout up next. 

< 

Photos: Yealands Wine Group, Shutterstock 


THE ART OF WINE. 

DOWN TO EARTH. 

Nestled between the continental 

warmth and cool northern currents, 

Austrian wines flourish in the heart of 

Europe. These ideal climatic conditions 

foster the growth of noble and elegant 

wines with EU-protected designation 

of origin. You can always spot them by 

the red-white-red capsule tops and the 

official quality wine check number on 

the label. 

austrianwine.com


BEST OF GLOBAL 

GRÜNER VELTLINER 

100 

2017 F.X. PICHLER UNENDLICH 

Wachau, Austria 

Medium yellow-green, silver 

reflections. Nuances of fresh apricot 

and blossom honey, tropical fruit, 

floral touch, an inviting bouquet. 

Juicy, very elegant, fine fruit expression, 

silky, fine acid, seems perfectly 

balanced, mineral and lasting, a 

wine with a very, very long life 

ahead. PM 

fx-pichler.at 

••••• 

98 

2019 HIRTZBERGER SMARAGD 

RIED HONIVOGL 


Medium greenish yellow, silver reflections. 

Fresh apple fruit, delicate 

mango and fine blossom honey, herbal 

spice with a tobacco background. 

Full-bodied, powerful, fine 

texture, ripe honeydew melon, fine 

acidity, elegant and lasting, mineral 

finish, absolute ageing potential. PM 

hirtzberger.com 

•••• 

95 

2018 TATOMER MEERESBODEN 

Santa Barbara County, California 

Mirabelle and eucalypt make for a 

vivid opening, followed by more juicy 

fruit. The palate is slender but 

comes with lovely texture and a real 

sense of chalkiness. There is an 

essential, profound coolness that 

seems anchored in salt. Absolute 

freshness pervades everything. Glorious. 

AK 

tatomerwines.com 

••• 


100 

2019 PRAGER SMARAGD RIED 

ZWERITHALER KAMMERGUT 



Ripe white apple fruit, 

meadow herbs, hints of mango, lime 

and orange zest. Complex, juicy, elegant 

texture, white tropical fruit, 

fine, fresh acidity, salty-minerality, 

lingers very long. PM 

weingutprager.at 

•••• 

99 

2019 HIRSCH RIED LAMM 

Kamptal, Austria 


White stone fruit, candied 

lime zest, nuances of passion fruit 

and mango, delicately peppery, 

fresh meadow herbs. Juicy, mineral, 

fine fruit expression, subtle note of 

vineyard peach, freshly structured, 

dark minerality on the finish, tightly 

meshed finish, absolute ageing 

potential, a prime example of this 

terroir. PM 

weingut-hirsch.at 

••• 

95 

2017 CULMINA UNICUS 

Okanagan Valley, Canada 

A sense of melted candlewax on the 

nose suggests that slight evolution 

suits this wine rather well. There is 

Mirabelle plum and lime zest, too, 

as well as a sense of toastiness and 

an edge of white pepper. The palate 

is full-bodied and textured, there is 

a real pithiness and a superfine, 

vivid freshness that ensures deliciousness 

now and further evolution 

with bottle age. Wow. AK 

culmina.ca 

••• 

95 

2019 QUARTZ REEF SINGLE 

VINEYARD 

Central Otago, New Zealand 

Subtle fragrance characterises the 

nose: notes of boxwood blend with 

juicy Mirabelle and ripe Amalfi 

lemon. The palate then wows with 

texture: there is miso and salt, crushed 

fennel seed and spiky lime. This 

is the full package, concentrated, 

fresh, expressive. Lovely now, certain 

to evolve. AK 

quartzreef.co.nz 

••• 


• 

EUR •••• •• 

EUR / GBP 15 – 30 and USD 20 – 35 

•• 

/ GBP 51 – 100 and USD 61 – 110 

••••• 

94 

2018 HAHNDORF HILL GRU 

Adelaide Hills, Australia 

As if someone had squeezed fresh 

Amalfi lemon juice over dew-wet 

moss: this is just so fresh, so appetising. 

There are hints of pea shoot, 

too. On the palate there is real texture 

in the form of pleasantly bitter 

citrus pith and such lovely freshness. 

This deserves more bottle age 

because the incipient evolution and 

depth is so, so promising, yet so 

fresh. Wonderful. AK 

hahndorfhillwinery.com.au 

••• 

94 

2020 ILLAHE VINEYARDS ESTATE 

Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA 

Lemon brightness plays on the 

subtle nose before Mirabelle lends 

fruitiness. There is a subtle sense of 

citrus blossom, too. The palate 

brings citrus but also miso and wax, 

fine lemon freshness keeps everything 

on a lifted, breezy note of 

lightness that is nonetheless anchored 

in real depth. Very elegant, very 

memorable in its subtlety and long 

finish. AK 

illahevineyards.com 

•• 

EUR / GBP 31 – 50 and USD 36 – 60 

••••• above EUR / GBP 100 and USD 110 

Photos: Wineries

column / LIGHTHOUSE 

DISCOVERY 

Curiosity or comfort? Untrodden paths or familiar routes? 

As the years advance, our columnist finds it is as precious 

to lose oneself in favourite pastimes as in new pursuits – 

the most important thing is not to become jaded. 

WORDS PETER PHAROS 

One of the most benevolent 

aspects of the human mind 

is how it treats our passage 

through time. For the young 

person, everything is new and 

exciting. Differences are to be celebrated 

and savoured, a reflection of the glorious 

multiformity of the world. The offbeat 

and unusual merit particular attention, the 

novel the most. Life moves simultaneously 

very fast and very slow. 

A bit later down the line, flexibility 

and exploration start to give way to the 

comfort of the familiar. Patterns begin to 

emerge: we think we know what we like 

and what we don’t. The justification for 

this is based both on experience and on 

time. There is little excitement in running 

towards dead ends anymore, and we 

couldn’t afford it even if we wanted to. 

Individual days might seem like weeks, but 

entire years pass in what feels like a few 

hours. Things need to count. 

There is something to be said about this. 

Exchanging width for depth is not just an 

exercise in leaving young adulthood behind. 

There is a beauty in the study of small 

differences, a cosiness in following the 

same thing through time. But this progressive 

settlement of taste comes with a catch. 

Eventually we reach a point where we fail 

to see any differences at all. There is nothing 

new under the sun. People were, are, 

and will always be the same, and so will be 

the things they create. It was ever thus and 

if reincarnation exists, it will be purely an 

exercise in repetition. In its own merciful 

way, our mind is gently telling us that, 

when it will be time to go, there will have 

been nothing left to gain by staying. 

BREAKING THE HABIT 

This is all fine when it works the way it 

is meant to. But it is so easy for it not to. 

Maybe our brains have not caught up with 

our newly increased life spans. Maybe the 

cosiness of patterns is a bit like salt and 

fat, we are wired to crave them because 

they used to be scarce, and we need to try 

actively to break the habit. It is easy to stay 

put and miss the world going by. There is 

a reason that when we say someone is old 

before their time, it is rarely in admiration. 

This is why the older I get, the more I 

appreciate the hobbies I have. During the 

lockdowns, food was not only a source of 

T 

HE ESSENCE OF WINE 

CONNOISSEURSHIP IS 

NOT UNIDIMENSIONAL. 

IT IS NOT ONLY 

TRAVELLING THROUGH 

TIME, BUT THROUGH 

SPACE TOO. 

Illustration: Gina Müller/carolineseidler.com 


PETER PHAROS 

Our wine, food and 

life-loving columnist 

and thinker writes 

under a pseudonym - 

hence the title of 

this column. Pharos: 

The Lighthouse. 

comfort but also of discovery, a connection 

to the outside world. All the recipes I 

wanted to attempt, all the combinations I 

wanted to try…if someone had told me two 

years ago that I would spend months and 

months staying in, I would have thought 

that I would finish everything three times 

over. What I found instead, is that I barely 

scratched the surface. Like a fractal, every 

dish opened another set of possibilities, every 

technique brought more questions than 

it answered. People have different ways 

of making every day feel like a new day. I 

found mine in filleting fish and puréeing 

vegetables. 

SENSE OF WONDER 

I am told there are people, many people, 

that find one wine they like and then stick 

to it, again and again and again. I don’t 

think there is anything wrong with this of 

course; I just think they don’t really like 

wine that much. Because liking wine is all 

about trying new things. Yes, depth is important 

and we all have favourites. There 

is pleasure to be had in following the same 

wine through vintages. But the essence of 

wine connoisseurship is not unidimensional. 

It is not only travelling through time, 

but through space too. Discovery is vital, 

even necessary – and not only in wine. 

For me, nothing compares to the sense 

of wonder of exploring a new city. I like 

towns, villages, islands, I can do mountains 

and forests at a pinch. But the excitement 

of a new, big city is unparalleled. Especially 

that one moment at the start. I have arrived 

at the hotel, I have arranged my stuff, I 

have washed the trip off me. I have comfortable 

shoes and a not too large backpack. 

I am ready to discover. I might live to be a 

hundred years old, I might not; as long as I 

still get that thrill from that moment, I will 

know it’s not yet time to go. < 


falstaff 

67

wine basics / VESSELS 

BARRELS, TANKS, 

AMPHORAE ... 

The wine world constantly talks about the containers used for making or maturing 

wine. French or American oak, acacia or chestnut – and that is just barrels. Then there 

are stainless steel or concrete tanks, and vessels made of granite, stoneware or clay. 

WORDS ANNE KREBIEHL MW 

Vessels matter. The containers 

wine are fermented and aged 

in have an influence on the 

finished product – on its 

taste, certainly, but in more 

and subtler ways than you may think. 

Vessels are just one element in the vast 

matrix that is wine, but a fascinating one. 

The chief materials for wine vessels 

are wood, stainless steel, concrete, fibreglass 

and clay – some winemakers even 

use vessels hewn from granite, stoneware 

fermenters or, in one case, a hollowed out 

marble rock. Some wines are also deliberately 

aged in glass, exposed to daylight. 

The three chief aspects to consider when 

thinking about wine vessels is whether they 

add any flavour to the wine, as some 

wood does, how thermally stable 

the material is and whether there 

is oxygen exchange, i.e. does the 

material allow tiny amounts 

of oxygen to permeate? Then 

there are practical aspects to 

consider: how easily can the 

vessel be maneuvered? Is it easy 

to clean and hygienic? Does it fit 

into the winery or cellar? Can it 

be heated or refrigerated? 

Leaving these practical matters aside 

and focusing just on flavour, texture 

and taste, how do these vessels influence 

the wine? Stainless steel is an inert material 

that does not give any flavour to the wine. 

Sleeves, walls or submerged elements can 

be used to easily heat up or cool down the 

contents, say to get a cool ferment going, 

slow a vigorous ferment down or to store 

The vessels wine are fermented, 

aged and stored in have an influence 

on the wine’s style. Above is a 

state of the art cellar with 

gleaming, computer-controlled 

stainless steel tanks. Inset: An 

equally modern cellar using clay 

amphorae for fermentation. 

wine at a constant, safe temperature. So far, 

so neutral, but certain key aromas – esters 

like isoamyl acetate, the smell of peardrop 

– are a direct result of cool fermentation 

and impossible without a temperature-controlled 

stainless steel tank. 

Concrete is also neutral, but has more 

thermal stability than steel, thus avoiding 

spikes during fermentation and keeping 

stored wine on a steady keel when there is 

no refrigeration. Concrete can also allow 

for some oxygen exchange. It is back in fashion, 

as are egg-shaped tanks with all the 

advantages of concrete plus a shape that 

keeps lees (the spent yeast of fermentation) 

in constant suspension, lending texture to 

the wine and protecting it from oxidation: 

microscopic amounts of oxygen are beneficial, 

anything more and wine oxidises. 

When it comes to oak, (even though acacia 

and chestnut are also used) it depends 

whether a barrel is new, how toasted the 

wood is and where it is from. New barrels 

give most flavour, once- or twice-used 

barrels just a little, older barrels none. But 

they all have oxygen exchange. American 

oak gives notions of coconut and vanilla, 

European oak of smoke and hazelnut. A 

light toast gives subtle oak flavour, a heavy 

toast can impart notions of mocha and 

espresso. Clay also ‘breathes’ but gives off 

no flavours. The most beautiful thing is 

that delicious wines are made in all these 

vessels, in concrete tanks, like at Cheval 

Blanc, in amphorae and tinaja, in barrels of 

all shapes and sizes. What is certain is that 

they are far more than just containers – 

they are stylistic choices. < 

Photos: Poggiotondo Wines, Shutterstock 


photo © Martin Wacht 

@SunSquareInternational

More news 



falstaff.com/newsletter/ 

FOOD 

RAVE REVIEWS FOR 

TOM MEYER’S GRANITE 

RESTAURANT IN PARIS 

Dubbed “the most important opening in 

Paris,” the restaurant in Les Halles has 

had critics in raptures. Chef Tom Meyer 

previously worked with Anne-Sophie Pic at her 

triple-Michelin-starred restaurant in Valence. He 

was then chosen by Parisian restaurant supremo 

Stéphane Manigold of Groupe Eclore to head 

Granite in Paris. The restaurant opened in late 

September 2021 – its debut subdued by the pandemic. 

The “resolutely contemporary, striking 

and audacious” creations include gnocchi coeur 

coulant, a dumpling filled with steamed shellfish, 

and charcoal-grilled scallops with smoked turnip. 

The restaurant also has a zero-waste and 

zero-plastic philosophy. 

granite.paris 

LONDON 

GORDON RAMSAY 

OPENS 1890 RESTAU- 

RANT IN LONDON’S 

SAVOY HOTEL 

The restaurant is named after the year 

1890 in which the influential chef Auguste 

Escoffier joined The Savoy in London 

– a year after the luxury hotel opened. 

Chef Ramsay says the new restaurant 

"creates a blend between unparalleled 

service, culinary creativity and exquisite 

wines.” James Sharp, who headed the 

Michelin-starred Pétrus by Gordon 

Ramsay, is the new executive head chef. 

thesavoylondon.com 

PINEBERRIES SET FOR FOOD 

TREND COMEBACK IN 2022 

Pineberries are set to make a comeback. The 

strawberry hybrid, a cross between Fragaria 

chiloensis and Fragaria virginiana, has white 

skin and red seeds and was named after its 

faint pineapple flavour. Developed in the 

Netherlands and first marketed in the early 

2000s, the berry is tipped to be the next big 

thing due to its high levels of vitamin A and C. 


NEWS 

SANTO STEFANO ESTATE 

LAUNCHES OLIVE OIL 

Photos: Paul Stefanaggi, The Savoy London, Shutterstock, Santo Stefano Estate, Calvin Courjon, Getty Images/Kris Connor 

Villa Santo Stefano, a 12ha/29 acre estate in 

the Lucchesia hills in Tuscany, Italy, has launched 

its new Lucca oil. The extra virgin olive 

oil is certified organic and is a blend of local 

olive varieties: 80% Frantoio, 15% Leccino and 

5% Moraiolo and Maurino olives. Unusually, 

the olives are hand-picked. Half a litre of the 

oil retails for €28/$32. The oil comes with 

some pedigree. Until 2001, the estate was 

owned by the Bertolli family, famous for their 

olive oil, who sold their brand to the Unilever 

company. 

villa-santostefano.it 

BOOKS 

CHEF ANGELA HARTNETT 

TO LAUNCH THIRD BOOK 

The award-winning British chef and TV personality 

Angela Hartnett will publish her third cookery book 

in late May, titled The Weekend Cook. It will feature 

more than 80 recipes for home entertaining. "Angela 

knows the secrets to throwing the most relaxed and 

enjoyable dinners for friends and family – sometimes 

mad, but always magical evenings that people talk 

about for months afterwards and in this book she is 

going to share them,” her publisher promises. The 

288 page hardback book has full colour photography. 

bloomsbury.com 

PARIS/LONDON 

CÉDRIC GROLET 

BRINGS PATISSERIE 

TO LONDON 

The renowned Parisian pâtissier is 

opening his first London outpost at the 

Berkeley Hotel. A “pastry theatre” will 

feature Grolet’s team creating his 

masterpieces which will also be available 

at the new Berkeley Café, seating 

60 guests. the-berkeley.co.uk 

AUBERGE RESORTS COLLECTION 

LAUNCHES TASTE OF AUBERGE 

The luxury hotel, resort and residence 

brand has launched a year-long programme 

of “epicurean events featuring 

pop-ups and chef residencies” at its properties. 

Held in both the US and international 

locations, Taste of Auberge, promises 

“unique opportunities to engage 

with incredible chefs through intimate 

dinners, immersive cooking classes and 

private tastings.” 

aubergeresorts.com 

WOLFGANG PUCK TO OPEN 

RESTAURANT AT VIENNA AIRPORT 

The Austrian-born celebrity chef of Spago 

and Oscar catering fame and man 

behind a restaurant and catering empire, 

is finally opening a restaurant in his home 

country. Delayed by the pandemic, the 

Wolfgang Puck Kitchen & Bar will open in 

spring 2022 in the arrivals area of Terminal 

3 at Vienna Airport. There will be a 

seated restaurant and a bar as well as a 

take-away station. "With this new restaurant, 

a bit of Hollywood moves into the 

airport. Diners will enjoy fine cooking of 

premium produce in a pleasant atmosphere,” 

says Julian Jäger, a board member 

of Vienna Airport. Signature dishes 

like Puck’s gourmet pizza will feature on 

the menu, as well as typical Viennese 

classics. 

wolfgangpuck.com 


falstaff 

71

food / FLAVOUR DESTINATION PERU 

PERU 

PASSION 

Between Pacific and Andes, between roaring ocean 

and rugged rocks, a perfect blend of indigenous and 

immigrant cultures has created a compelling cuisine. 

WORDS SUSAN LOW 

Photo: Liz Tasa 


This colourful ceviche 

at Astrid y Gastón 

restaurant in Lima, a 

Peruvian take on raw 

fish, shimmers with 

chilli, coriander, citrus 

and onion. 


falstaff 

73


The famous Inca citadel of 

Machu Picchu in southern Peru. 

Inset: An indigenous Peruvian 

with a heart-warming smile. 

In Peru, culinary worlds collide with 

spectacular effect. The country’s 

landscape encompasses wild Pacific 

coastline, high Andean peaks and 

Amazonian jungle. Its varied 

climates and altitudes support an extravagant 

and unusual range of fruits, vegetables, 

nuts, grains and tubers. To this natural 

abundance, add several centuries of 

cross-cultural influence and exchange. After 

the Spanish conquest of Latin America in 

the 16th-century came the colonial era, 

bringing waves of immigration from 

Europe (mostly Spain and Italy), Japan, 

China and Africa. Indigenous people still 

make up more than a quarter of the 

population – and all these influences can be 

seen and tasted. 

TO THIS NATURAL 

ABUNDANCE, ADD 

SEVERAL CENTURIES 

OF CROSS-CULTURAL 

INFLUENCE AND 

EXCHANGE. 

PERUVIAN FOOD: FUSION 

CUISINE? 

Peruvian food is often referred to as fusion 

cuisine, but the reality is more nuanced 

than that. The Spanish conquest initiated 

two-way traffic between the old and new 

world, a process called the Columbian 

Exchange. The European colonisers 

brought citrus fruits, bananas, grapes, sugar 

cane, rice, onions and brassicas, along with 

domesticated animals like cows, pigs, sheep 

and chickens for milk and meat; from Latin 

America to Europe went potatoes (which 

are native to Peru), maize, peanuts, 

tomatoes, beans, peppers, squashes and 

avocados. The dinner plates of both worlds 

were changed forever, with far-reaching 

consequences. In Peru, as in other South 

Photos: Getty Images, Adrian Dascal/unsplash, Lima London, Brian Dandridge, Richard Haughton 


American countries, the colonial era also 

brought waves of immigration from Africa, 

Japan and China, as agricultural labourers 

arrived to work on plantations and estates 

during the 19th century. Culinarily, their 

influence persists in Afro-Peruvian, nikkei 

and chifa cooking styles, respectively, as 

does the cooking of Peru’s indigenous 

people. 

The coming-together of this rich mix of 

cultures and cooking styles is called criollo 

in Peru. Adrián Sánchez, executive chef of 

Lima and Lima Floral, two Peruvian restaurants 

in London, describes criollo cooking 

as, “the real roots of Peruvian food, 

bringing in all the cultural influences from 

the Incas onwards”. Jake Cousins, commis 

chef at Lima Floral, has travelled widely 

and lived in Peru, his mother’s birthplace. 

He says, “Peru is one of the luckiest 

countries in terms of cuisine because we 

have the influence of the sea, the Andes, the 

Amazon – each part brings its own things. 

If you go to the markets, you will see things 

you never see elsewhere.” The combination 

of terrain, natural abundance and cross-cultural 

influence make Peruvian cooking a 

cuisine like no other. 

< 

Above left: Lima 

restaurant is a Peruvian 

hotspot in London. Above 

and below: The enticing 

creations of Adrián 

Sánchez. 


falstaff 

75


The desert landscape of 

Paracas National Reserve in 

southwestern Peru. 

Right: An octopus dish at 

Central Restaurant and below, a 

plate of ollucos, colourful tubers 

that are a speciality of Peru. 

< 

THE JAPANESE 

INFLUENCE: NIKKEI 

Arguably, the strongest of 

Peru’s many culinary influences 

has been that of Japanese 

immigrants, resulting in a cuisine 

called nikkei. Luiz Hara, chef and 

author of Nikkei Cuisine: Japanese 

Food the South American Way, who 

grew up in a nikkei family in São Paulo, 

Brazil, says: “Japan had been isolated for 

200 years. When Emperor Meiji took 

power during the Meiji Restoration of 

1868, there was a huge push to modernise 

Japan. At that time, a lot of people in the 

countryside went hungry. This coincided 

with Brazil abolishing slavery in 1888, so 

the Latin American plantation owners 

needed people to work on their estates. 

They encouraged Europeans to come, then 

they opened up immigration from Asia. 

There was a huge influx of Japanese people 

coming to Brazil and Peru.” 

THOUGH IT SEEMS 

(AND TASTES) 

UTTERLY UP-TO-DATE, 

CEVICHE’S ROOTS GO 

ALL THE WAY BACK TO 

THE INCAS. 

The new immigrants created their own 

style of cooking, using local ingredients and 

Japanese techniques – including sophisticated 

knife skills – and Japanese flavour 

sensibilities. Nikkei cuisine encompasses 

dishes such as tiradito, a Peruvian cousin to 

Japan’s sashimi, and the contemporary 

incarnation of ceviche. 

HISTORY IN A DISH: CEVICHE 

Though it seems (and tastes) utterly 

up-to-date, ceviche’s roots go all the way 

back to the Incas. Citrus from Europe 

didn’t arrive in Peru until the 16th century, 

of course, but Latin American food 

authority Elisabeth Luard surmises that a 

version of the dish existed with chilli as a 

souring agent since some types of chilli are 

acidic. By the time the Japanese arrived, 

ceviche was an established dish which was 

further refined by Japanese cooks. Luiz 

Hara says: “When the Japanese went to 

Peru, they saw that cooks worked with 

Photos: Getty Images, Central Restaurant, Antony Jones / PA / picturedesk.com, Liz Tasa 


quality fish but didn’t know how to 

make the best of it. They marinated 

the fish in citrus for too long, ruining 

the texture. The Japanese decided 

they could do better and marinated 

for less time and used fresher, even 

better fish. They also created tiradito.” 

The name possibly originates from the 

Spanish word for ‘stretched’, a reference 

to the thinness of the lightly marinated 

slices. 

A century later, nikkei food rose to world 

fame with chef Nobuyuki ‘Nobu’ Matsuhisa. 

Born in Japan, he moved to Lima in 

1973, immersing himself in Nippo-Peruvian 

cooking. He rose to fame in Los Angeles 

with his Matsuhita restaurant, then opened 

Nobu in New York City in 1994. Nobu 

restaurants proliferated, making nikkei 

food a global phenomenon: there are now 

50 Nobu restaurants on five continents. 

However, while Nobu made nikkei 

famous, Hara credits Toshiro Konishi for 

creating it. “Nobu made nikkei cuisine 

glitzy,” says Hara. “He put the cuisine on 

the map. But he worked with chef Toshiro 

NIKKEI CUISINE 

ENCOMPASSES 

DISHES SUCH AS 

TIRADITO AND THE 

CONTEMPORARY 

INCARNATION OF 

CEVICHE. 

Chef Nobu 

Matsuhisa, the man 

who made nikkei 

cuisine famous 

around the globe. 

Konishi who had come to Peru from Japan 

in the 1970s. When Nobu went to the US, 

Konishi stayed in Peru, ran several restaurants 

and taught at university. He’s 

regarded as the father of nikkei in Peru.” 

CHEFS BRINGING PERUVIAN 

FLAVOURS TO THE WORLD 

Nobu paved the way for a later wave of 

Peruvian chefs. Today Peru is the only 

country thus far to have two establishments 

listed among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants: 

Central and Maido, both in Lima, 

hold places four and seven, respectively. 

At Central, the cooking of husband-andwife 

team Virgilio Martínez and Pia 

< 

A subtle but 

striking, citrusscented 

starter at 

Astrid y Gastón. 


falstaff 

77


A most exquisite, caviar-topped 

dumpling at Maido Restaurant 

and, above right, the interior of the 

restaurant in Lima, Peru. 

PERU ON A PLATE 

< 

León is the result of detailed research 

into Peru’s multitude of climates and the 

resulting diversity of Peruvian produce. At 

the launch of Central cookbook at Lima 

restaurant in London in 2016, Virgilio 

Martínez described their cooking: “We 

cook ecosystems,” he said before introducing 

a staggering array of native grains, 

seeds, vegetables, fungi and edible algae. 

You will struggle to find cooking like this 

anywhere else. 

At Maido, Peru-born chef Mitsuharu 

Tsumura honed his skills in Japan and the 

US. He takes nikkei cooking to new heights 

with his tasting menus based on Peruvian 

ingredients and Japanese techniques. 

Mention must also be made of chef Gastón 

Acurio, whose Astrid y Gastón restaurant 

in Lima is currently ranked number 13 on 

the World’s 50 Best Latin American 

Restaurants list. The editors describe this 

trailblazing chef who has inspired acolytes 

including Virgilio Martínez, as “chef-patron 

saint of modern Peruvian cuisine.” 

Chefs such as these have made Peru a 

must-visit destination for food lovers. In 

2017, 2018 and 2021, Peru was deemed to 

be the World’s Leading Culinary Destination 

in the World Travel Awards. Peruvian 

chefs have brought the flavours of their 

nation to the world through their talent 

and creativity. Now food lovers are heading 

to Peru, where the rich mix of ingredients 

and culture awaits discovery. 

< 

CEVICHE 

This dish of cubed raw fish lightly marinated in 

citrus, drizzled with olive oil and served with onion, 

avocado and chillies, is the one most closely 

identified with Peruvian cuisine. The word is believed 

to derive from the Quechua (an indigenous 

language) word siwichi, which means fresh 

fish. Ceviche dates back to the Incas, but the 

ingredients and techniques have changed with 

each successive wave of cultural change and 

exchange, from the Spanish conquest onwards. 

The dish helped make Peruvian food famous 

around the world, and is still evolving today. 

PACHAMANCA 

Not so much an ingredient or dish, but a way of 

cooking. Chef Adrián Sánchez says, “Pachamanca 

means ‘earth oven’. You dig a hole, make a fire 

and line it with volcanic stones, then wrap the 

food in banana leaves and layer it in the earth 

oven, then cook it for hours. In a single dish, you 

can find all the roots of Peruvian cooking.” Ingredients 

might include marinated pork, alpaca, 

cuy (guinea pig) and lamb, along with potatoes, 

sweet potatoes and corn. It’s similar to a New 

England clambake, a Maori hangi and a Hawaiian 

luau. The dish had ritualistic importance for the 

Incas because cooking food in the ground was 

believed to pay homage to Pachamama, the Inca 

earth goddess. It remains a feast dish today. 

PEANUTS 

Native to Peru and cultivated by the Incas, peanuts 

were brought to Europe, Africa, Asia and 

the Pacific Islands during the European colonial 

expansion. Peanuts, now a major food crop 

around the world, are an integral part of West 

Ingredients and dishes 

African stews, Indonesian satay sauces and the 

all-American lunchbox staple, the peanut butter 

and jelly sandwich. Peanuts are also the main 

ingredient in Plumpy’Nut, a high-nutrition food 

administered by UNICEF and others to alleviate 

severe malnutrition in children. 

POTATOES 

Possibly the most popular tuber in the world, 

this native of Peru has altered the course of 

human history. There are an estimated 3,800 

types of potato in Peru alone. Luard says: 

“You see thousands of varieties piled up in the 

marketplaces in their land of origin, and there is 

an enormous range of colours and textures and 

uses.” Luard recommends Papa a la Huancaína 

– potatoes with fresh cheese and chillies in a 

bright yellow sauce. Potatoes are also the basis 

of another iconic Peruvian dish, causa – potatoes 

mashed with chillies and lime, which dates back 

to the Incas and is still popular today. 

QUINOA 

Centuries before this nutritious seed became 

revered as a superfood among health-conscious 

Westerners, it was grown in the Andean 

highlands, where the Incas called it chisaya 

mama, the mother seed, the source of life. Spanish 

colonisers tried to suppress its cultivation 

because they believed its ceremonial importance 

undermined the spread of Catholicism. Quinoa 

and its cousin amaranth nonetheless survived, 

and they continue to sustain Andean populations 

and to give pleasure to cooks the world over. The 

seeds, in shades of pink, black, brown, orange 

and red, are appreciated for their beauty as well 

as their nutritional value. 

Photos: Maido 


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food / PERUVIAN RESTAURANTS 

THE WORLD’S 

25 BEST 

PERUVIAN 

PLACES 

OUTSIDE PERU 

Peruvian cuisine is no longer 

confined to its home country. 

Ever since its nueva comida, 

Peru’s unique blend of native 

and immigrant cuisines, hit its 

stride, its wonderful flavours 

can be found around the globe. 

WORDS HANS MAHR 

Photo: Pastuso 


A stunning Peruvian 

dish served up by 

Melbourne restaurant 

Pastuso. 

Heni blam qui beriorepra 

nobitaq uibusandi commodi 

sequis iliquia conet es 

molorum fugiand aectia 

sumquos aut ea vellam ea 

cor as ipsam untori 


falstaff 

81

food / PERUVIAN RESTAURANTS 

summer on the patio next to the swimming 

pool. Pacifico also has outlets in Milan and 

Porto Cervo, Sardinia. 

BERLIN 

LILA, lilarestaurant.com 

If you prefer an intimate place and great 

cooking, join Peruvian chef Omar and his 

Spanish wife Carlotta in this small, lively 

spot in Berlin’s centre, either at the open 

kitchen bar or at one of the ten tables. 

Enjoy lots of seafood and a tender pork 

belly in Cognac jus. 

ZURICH 

BARRANCO, barranco.ch 

The owner is Swiss, the chef is Peruvian. 

Of course, you can order ceviche, tiraditos 

and chicken – but the vegetarian samplers 

are the sensation here: coriander stew with 

mushrooms, pickles, corncake or crispy 

marinated aubergine cubes with pecan nuts. 

LONDON 

LIMA, limalondon.com/floral-by-lima 

Founded 10 years ago, Lima undoubtedly 

serves the best Peruvian cuisine in the 

UK. Order the tasting menu with scallop 

tostada, seabream ceviche, beef tartare 

causa and suckling pig. If you prefer it 

less formal, book at sister restaurant 

Floral: same owner, same quality. 

PARIS 

VILLA MIKUNA, villamikuna.fr 

Opened late last year, this is the Peruvian 

in-place at Pigalle. A tapas and cocktail 

bar with live South American music and a 

restaurant with spicy guacamole and lots 

of ceviche. Go for the king shrimp ceviche 

with coconut and pineapple and plantain 

fritters filled with pulled veal. 

ROME 

PACIFICO ROMA, wearepacifico.it 

In an Art Nouveau palazzo, a stone’s throw 

from Piazza del Popolo, one can find fine 

dining at its best. Start at the Pisco bar 

and then enjoy nikkei tapas and tacos – in 

winter in the magnificent dining hall, in 

One of Lila’s colourful seafood 

creations in Berlin. 

MADRID 

TAMPU, tampurestaurante.com 

The best Peruvian restaurant in Spain – in 

the heart of Salamanca. Wooden tables, 

impeccable design and great food. Order 

raw scallop in cream made with coconut, 

chilli and jungle turmeric to whet your 

appetite, then sea bass with leche de tigre 

in a nest of green plantain. Spectacular. 

DUBAI 

COYA, coyarestaurant.com/dubai 

Coya promises to bring the spirit of the 

Incas to the Middle East – and it delivers: 

from patata frita (sweet potato with tamarind, 

soy and mint) to rey congrejo 

Inset: A novel way of presenting lamb 

shanks at Lima London. Below: The 

restaurant’s blue-themed interior. 

Photos: Lila Berlin, Safia Shakarchi, Richard Haughton, Pastuso/Leigh Griffiths, supplied 


Diners enjoy punchy 

décor and an open 

kitchen in Melbourne’s 

Pastuso. Inset: Fresh 

scallops at Pastuso. 

(Josper grilled King crab with red miso and 

ajo) and pollo a la parilla (poussin with coriander). 

You also find Coya in Abu Dhabi 

and Doha. 

SINGAPORE 

CANCHITA, canchita.sg 

Close to the botanic gardens, this oasis of 

calm is waiting to be discovered. Try the 

five-course tasting menu which features 

Peruvian highlights like ceviche clásico, 

arroz con mariscos and conchinito criollo. 

SHANGHAI 

COLCA 

Cocktail bar to the left, private dining to 

the right plus a room with 100 covers at 

the end – an impressive Peruvian place with 

a Shanghai accent. Enjoy dinner, but leave 

room for Eduardo’s special flan for dessert, 

offered in all of his nine Shanghai restaurants. 

SYDNEY 

NIKKEI BAR & RESTAURANT, 

nikkeibar.com.au 

Small, but impressive quality in Surry Hills 

– take a seat at the sushi bar or at the communal 

table. Most nikkei dishes are served 

tapas-style. Order octopus ceviche, Hokkaido 

scallop, potato croquettes, pork rib eye 

and dulce de leche ice cream – all served 

family-style to share. 

MELBOURNE 

PASTUSO, 

pastuso.com.au 

Street food and ceviches 

are central to chef 

Samuel Riva’s cooking in 

this restaurant gem close to 

the Yarra River and Docklands. 

Stick to the Feast of the Andes menu and 

get a taste of sea, mountain and jungle produce 

– start or finish with one of the eleven 

Pisco cocktails. 

NEW YORK 

MISSION CEVICHE, missionceviche.com 

Starting out with a string of small ceviche 

bars, chef Luis Chavez has finally opened 

his first sit-down restaurant on the Upper 

East Side. Of course, ceviche is central to 

the menu, but don’t miss out on the arroz 

con mariscos or the seco norteno, delicious 

short ribs with coriander sauce. 

SAN FRANCISCO 

PIQUEOS, piqueos.com 

This Peruvian gem hides in suburban San 

Francisco, specialising in serving tapas-sized 

delicacies mostly from the nearby 

Pacific. Don’t miss their famous ceviche 

mixto with red snapper, mussels, clam, 

shrimp, red onions, rocoto peppers, 

coriander and lime. It tastes as good as it 

sounds. 

MIAMI 

LA MAR, 

mandarinoriental. 

com 

Chef Gastón Acurio has 

created his most enjoyable 

restaurant outside of Peru 

here at Biscayne Bay, with an 

unbeatable sea view. Everything you dreamed 

about Peruvian cuisine is on the menu 

– from ceviche and tiradito to empanada 

and a jumbo tiger shrimp with anticuchera 

sauce, chimichurri and yellow potatoes. 

HONOLULU 

MIMI’S PERUVIAN CUISINE, 

mimisperuviancuisine.com 

This place, close to Ala Moana beach is run 

by the eponymous Mimi, a Peru national 

who knows how to do ceviche and – if 

seafood is not enough – arroz con pollo, 

the famous coriander chicken. 

Hans Mahr is our resident 

restaurant expert. 

He has eaten his way 

around the world several 

times and we love his 

wry and often refreshingly 

sideways take on 

the international world of 

dining out. 

< 


falstaff 

83

essay / EXOTIC FLAVOURS 

THE LOVE FOR 

EXOTIC 

FLAVOURS 


Gastronomic curiosity says a lot about one’s personality. 

Enjoying exotic flavours, so our author finds, nourishes the 

soul above all. 

WORDS JULIA NITTMANN 

ILLUSTRATION GINA MÜLLER / CAROLINESEIDLER.COM 


falstaff 

85

essay / EXOTIC FLAVOURS 

For some of us, gastronomic journeys 

of discovery cannot be 

exotic enough, while others shy 

away from any taste adventure. 

These personal preferences, as it 

turns out, allow direct conclusions to be 

drawn about our personality. Let’s take a 

look back: 40 years ago, foods and dishes 

from beyond our immediate home region or 

country would have passed for exotic, enticing 

us with the allure of the unknown. 

Today we need puffer fish, deep-fried insects 

or some other off-piste snack to present 

unknown flavours, so global has our food 

supply become. This proves that the flavours 

themselves are secondary. In our context, it 

is the fact that it was and always will be 

about the unusual, the different, the novel 

which attracts many food lovers – and from 

a psychological point of view this is indeed a 

compliment for them. 

VISIONARY ADVENTURES IN FOOD 

As soon as small children become mobile, 

their scepticism towards unfamiliar foods increases 

– an evolutionary, biological protective 

function against the potential dangers of 

poisoning. However, the more our personalities 

evolve, the greater individual differences 

in taste preferences become. These are closely 

related to personality theories in psychology. 

One of the best-known and most researched 

models is the five-factor model by 

Costa and McCrae. It distinguishes between 

five characteristics – valid across all cultural 

and social differences – which can each be 

expressed to different degrees in people: 

openness to experience, agreeableness, conscientiousness, 

neuroticism and extraversion. 

People who have a preference for variety 

and like to try out new things are especially 

highly developed in the factor "openness to 

experience." They are also considered creative, 

visionary, often interested in aesthetic 

pursuits such as art, music and poetry, and 

attentive to their own and others’ emotions. 

On the other hand, people who like to play 

it safe – also when it comes to flavour – often 

have a higher expression in the dimension 

"neuroticism," tend to be insecure and 

nervous, tend to worry and be fearful, but 

are often characterised by high sensitivity. 


A LOVE OF EXOTIC FLAVOURS DIRECTLY INDICATES 

A POSITIVE PERSONALITY. PLEASANT MEMORIES AND 

EXPEREINCES SHAPE PREFERENCE, THANKS TO A 

"FAST LANE” IN THE BRAIN THAT CONNECTS SMELL 

AND EMOTION. TRAINING YOURSELF TO ENJOY SCENT 

CAN LEAD TO A MORE OPTIMISTIC OUTLOOK ON LIFE. 

It is interesting to note that the characteristics 

"openness" and "neuroticism" decrease 

between the ages of 20 and 30. From 

a gastronomic point of view, this means that 

some people’s gustatory adventurousness decreases 

a little, while others dare to experiment. 

A study by the Nestlé Group on eating 

habits in Germany in 2009, showed 

that 64 percent of all respondents liked to 

eat dishes from other countries – among the 

younger cohort, however, the figure was as 

high as 78 percent. 

Neurobiologically, the Zuckerman model 

of the "sensation seeker" is also relevant for 

the desire for something new on and off the 

plate: this involves people who have a lower 

level of arousal in the brain and therefore 

subconsciously try to steer their brain activity 

constantly into the optimal range via new 

and stimulating situations. 

A DIRECT ROUTE TO THE BRAIN 

However, neurobiology also plays a role in 

other respects in the preferences we have for 

special dishes – or more precisely for their 

smells. The fact that the smell of food, spices 

and drinks once enjoyed in distant places or 

in the past can become a brief "holiday of 

the mind" is due to a kind of information 

super-highway between our nose and the 

limbic system: the region in our brain that 

processes emotions. 

Normally, sensory perceptions pass 

through the brain’s thalamus, the "gateway 

to consciousness." There, sensory stimuli are 

processed and only subsequently perceived 

consciously. However, our olfactory receptors 

also have a direct connection to the 

amygdala in the limbic system, where feelings 

are directly triggered and processed, 

and are networked with the hippocampus, 

where our memory is located. Because of 

these connections, it is not surprising that 

smells, and thus also food, can trigger such 

diverse emotions in us – from childhood 

memories to key moments experienced far 

away or long ago. 

AROMA FOR THE SOUL 

If exotic foods can thus evoke such positive 

memories, the question arises: are they not 

the perfect break from everyday life, a little 

holiday from the humdrum? Psychological 

practice suggests that this works above all 

with people who see their glass as "half 

full" rather than "half empty." Pessimists 

tend to focus on what they don’t have – the 

real smell of the sea, the real sound of the 

ocean and the real holiday. Optimists, on the 

other hand, find it easier to enjoy the fact 

that they can taste the seafood and recall 

and "relive" the rest as memories from their 

minds. 

However, studies of Positive Psychology 

now indicate that optimism is also a matter 

of training and can be increased, for example, 

through regular gratitude exercises. It is 

worthwhile to focus deliberately and consciously 

on the things with which we are 

already blessed. Good food is one of them, 

of course. 

A love for exotic flavours thus can ultimately 

contribute to becoming more psychologically 

stable and resilient. < 

More Falstaff Essays 

read more interesting 

food features on 

falstaff.com 


falstaff 

87

food / RECIPES 

SPEARING 

SPRINGTIME 

Nothing says spring like fresh, snappy spears 

of asparagus. Here is what to do with this 

wonderful, seasonal vegetable. 

PHOTOS STINE CHRISTIANSEN FOODSTYLING THOMAS STEINMANN 

88 falstaff 



falstaff 

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90 falstaff 


SALAD OF RAW 

ASPARAGUS WITH 

WATERCRESS, 

HERBS AND 

PISTACHIOS 

(SERVES 4) 

INGREDIENTS 

500g asparagus, cut lengthwise into 

thin slices with a mandoline or a peeler 

100g soybeans (frozen) 

1 small shallot, finely chopped 

2 tbsp white wine vinegar 

5 tbsp olive oil 

2 handfuls of watercress or rocket 

½ bunch fresh mint 

2 tbsp tarragon leaves 

50g roasted pistachios, coarsely chopped 

2 tbsp chive blossoms, alternatively daisies 

Salt, black pepper, freshly ground 

METHOD 

– Cook the frozen soybeans according to packet 

instructions and immediately plunge 

into ice-cold water. 

– Mix the shallot and vinegar in a small 

bowl, season with salt and pepper and leave 

to infuse for at least 10 minutes. Then 

whisk the oil with the shallot mixture and 

season to taste. 

– Mix the soybeans, asparagus, watercress, 

mint leaves and tarragon in a large bowl. 

Add the vinaigrette and pistachios and stir 

to combine. Arrange on a serving platter 

and garnish with chive flowers or daisies to 

taste. 


falstaff 

91


FRITTATA 

DI ASPARAGI 

(SERVES 4 AS A STARTER 

OR AS PART OF A PICNIC) 

INGREDIENTS 

350g green asparagus 

2 tbsp olive oil 

5 eggs 

2 large tbsp Greek yoghurt 

2 tbsp grated parmesan 

3 sprigs fresh thyme, chopped 

Salt, black pepper, freshly ground 

METHOD 

– Snap off the woody ends of the asparagus 

spears. 

– Wash and cook in boiling salted water for 

about 4-5 minutes. Drain. 

– Sauté briefly and vigorously in a pan with 

the olive oil. Set aside. 

– Beat the eggs, yoghurt, salt, pepper, Parmesan 

and thyme leaves in a bowl. 

– Heat the oven to 180°C/356°F, line a tart 

tin with baking paper and arrange the asparagus 

decoratively as shown in the picture. 

– Pour the egg mixture over the top and 

bake in the oven for 25-30 minutes. Leave 

to cool slightly, remove from the tin and 

serve. 

92 falstaff 



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94 falstaff 


SAUTÉED 

ASPARAGUS 

WITH CHILLI, 

COCONUT AND 

PEANUTS 

(SERVES 2) 

INGREDIENTS 

350g green asparagus, trimmed 

3 tbsp coconut flakes, unsweetened 

3 tbsp vegetable oil 

2 mild habanero chillies, finely chopped, 

alternatively red chillies 

3 tbsp soy sauce 

2 tbsp fresh lime juice 

1 tbsp honey 

1 tbsp dark sesame oil 

1 tbsp finely grated, peeled ginger 

1 handful of salted roasted peanuts, coarsely 

ground 

METHOD 

– Toast the coconut flakes in a pan until 

light brown, about 3 minutes, stirring 

constantly. Set aside. 

– Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Sauté 

the asparagus over a brisk heat, turning 

frequently, until the spears have taken 

on colour but are still crunchy, about 

5 minutes. Season with salt and transfer 

to a serving dish. 

– Mix the chilli, soy sauce, lime juice, honey, 

sesame oil and ginger in a small bowl and 

fold into the asparagus. Mix the peanuts 

and coconut flakes together and sprinkle 

over the asparagus. 


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SOFT-BOILED EGGS 

WITH GREEN 

ASPARAGUS SOLDIERS 

(SERVES 4 AS A STARTER 

OR AS PART OF A PICNIC) 

INGREDIENTS 

400g thin green asparagus 

4 large fresh organic eggs, at 

room temperature 

4 slices of toast, buttered 

150g Parma ham sliced thinly 

(optional) 

Salt, pepper 

METHOD 

– Trim and wash the asparagus, 

blanch briefly in boiling salted 

water, about 1 – 2 minutes. 

– At the same time, cook the eggs 

in boiling salted water until soft, 

4 – 5 minutes to taste. Meanwhile, 

toast the bread until golden brown 

and butter generously. 

– At the table, break the eggs, salt 

them and alternately dip the asparagus 

heads and toast into the soft 

eggs and enjoy. The asparagus 

spears can also be wrapped in Parma 

ham before dipping. 

96 falstaff 


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food / RESTAURANT ICONS: HARRY’ S BAR 

The inimitable Arrigo Cipriani, 

a year older than his eponymous 

restaurant, is still there most 

nights to personally welcome 

his customers and observe 

proceedings with a watchful eye. 

A GLIMPSE OF 

For more than 90 years the rich, 

famous and beautiful have flocked 

to this tiny place: Harrys Bar in 

Venice is far more than an institution. 

It is a state of mind. 

WORDS ROBIN LEE 

Photo: Depositphotos/©REDA&&CO 


HARRY’S BAR 


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99

Open to all: Harrys 

Bar is for everyone 

– as long as they 

are courageous 

and can afford the 

exorbitant prices. 

BRAVERY AND BELLINIS 

Harry’s Bar is for tourists too, though only 

the bravest venture here. Unknown visitors 

are welcomed by white-jacketed waiters 

and reverentially ushered in without the 

need for a reservation. They are offered a 

Bellini at the bar and find, almost miraculously, 

if that ritual goes well, that there 

is a table prepared for them if they want to 

continue the experience. Harry’s Bar is for 

those undeterred by brusque formality, 

whose thirst extends to imbibing strictly 

observed, unwritten and unspoken rules, 

who have an appetite unfazed by the 

prospect of paying outrageous prices for 

food widely reputed to be terrible, but 

The original Harry’s Bar in 

Venice, now 90 years old, 

withstands the passage of time 

with inimitable grace. The 

enigmatic etched glass door, a 

few steps from St. Mark’s Square, is a 

landmark. Harry’s Bar is the epitome, 

encapsulation and the essence of the 

American Century. Elegant, yet informal; 

stiffly starched and yet relaxed; Harry’s Bar 

is where foreigners come to feel like locals 

and Venetians feel like they are abroad, 

where expats from countries that no longer 

exist feel at home, and boring people are 

made to feel like movie stars. The list is 

long and illustrious of those who return 

habitually to the small, low tables to drink 

the familiar cocktails and while away the 

hours: amongst clandestine lovers, spoiled 

rich kids, ladies of a certain age with their 

pugs, gigolos and cuckolds, minor royalty 

and their imposters, muses and impresarios, 

disinherited heiresses and other regulars. 

Bestseller Bellini: This cocktail 

based on white peach purée 

and Prosecco was invented by 

Giuseppe Cipriani in 1948 and 

is always served in stemless 

glasses. 



Photos: mauritius images / Travel Collection, mauritius images / Alamy Stock Photos / Reda&Co, mauritius images / Alamy Stock Photos / martin norris, ARICI,GRAZIANO / Action Press / picturedesk.com, mauritius images / Alamy Stock Photos / Guillem Lopez, getty Images/J. Vespa 

turns out to be rather wonderful. Harry’s 

Bar is its own universe, more a state of 

mind than a place, with a living tradition 

unique to itself. 

HARRY AND ARRIGO 

Harry’s Bar opened on May 13, 1931. As 

owner Arrigo Cipriani says, “if all the 

customers who later said they were there 

on the opening day had been there, it 

would have had to have been as big as St. 

Mark’s.” Arrigo, which is Italian for Harry, 

was named after Harry’s Bar, not the other 

way round. Harry’s Bar was founded by 

Arrigo’s father, Giuseppe Cipriani. According 

to legend, in 1929, when Giuseppe 

Cipriani was working as a barman at Hotel 

Europa, one of his customers confessed he 

had been left stranded in Venice without a 

cent. Giuseppe Cipriani lent him money 

and two years later the customer, Henry 

Pickering, came back, returned the loan, 

and offered Giuseppe Cipriani the money 

to start his own bar, which of course was 

called Harry’s Bar. 

Giuseppe’s wife, Giulietta, found the 

perfect spot: a former rope warehouse in a 

dead-end street. At the time, there was no 

bridge yet to connect it to St. Mark’s 

Square, so customers could not just pass by 

– they would have to come on purpose. 

The original décor was designed by 

another one of Giuseppe’s customers, 

Baron Giovanni Rubin de Cervin, 

director of the Naval Museum, who also 

drew the logo of a barman that is 

BELLINI 

The original recipe of the 

Venetian Classic 

Giuseppe Cipriani, Arrigo’s father, loved the 

small white peaches in season from June to 

September, “wondering whether there was 

a way to transform this magic fragrance into 

a drink.” He combined the fresh peach purée 

with Prosecco and the classic was born. It has 

been served at the bar since 1948. 

Take one quarter fresh white peach purée, 

three quarters Prosecco. Stir gently and serve 

chilled in a stemless glass. 

Just one of many 

patrons: Ernest 

Hemingway was a 

Harry’s Bar regular 

for decades. 

LUXURY, DÉCOR, 

FOOD, SERVICE – 

HE OFFERED THEM 

ALL WITH A TRUE 

SIMPLICITY OF SPIRIT, 

A LIGHTNESS. 

engraved on the glasses, stamped on the 

dishes and embroidered on the napkins. 

Giuseppe himself designed the three-legged 

tables and chose small chairs and cutlery to 

fit with the proportions of the room. “My 

father was a genius of simplicity,” explains 

Arrigo. “Luxury, décor, food, service – he 

offered them all with a true simplicity of 

spirit, a lightness that never imposed 

anything on his customers.” 

Ernest Hemingway, who sojourned in 

Venice in the 1930s, was a Harry’s Bar 

regular. On one occasion, Hemingway’s 

wife Mary joined her husband at Harry’s 

Bar with his duck hunting friends and a 

certain Princess Aspasia, who had retired to 

Venice after her husband died from being 

bitten by his pet monkey. Mary Heming- 

Nicole Kidman (far left) and Lauren 

Bacall (front): Harry’s Bar is a magnet 

for stars and starlets - especially so 

during the Venice Film Festival. 

< 


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Waiters clad in white jackets 

prepare to serve drinks at 

Harry’s Bar in 2003. 

< 

way enjoyed the fish soup at Harry’s 

Bar so much that she asked for the recipe 

and noted it in her diary. 

Apart from the classic fish soup, to this 

day a fixture on the menu, Harry’s Bar is 

famous for other unique dishes, such as the 

tagliolini gratinati, oozing with ham, butter 

and cheese, and by contrast the almost 

austere carpaccio of thinly sliced raw beef, 

decoratively criss-crossed with a light 

drizzle of mayonnaise. Invented 

here, the dish was named after 

the great Venetian painter, 

Vittore Carpaccio following 

the exhibition of his works in 

Venice in 1950. Many 

Venetians come to Harry’s Bar 

only for the scampi al curry, 

or the glorious torta meringata, 

invented as a way to use up the 

egg whites left over from making 

the mayonnaise for the famous 

sandwiches served at the bar. 

For first and foremost, as its name 

attests, Harry’s Bar is a bar. The drinks are 

small and served in chilled, stemless glasses. 

Like everything else at Harry’s Bar, the 

whole performance – deft, swift, noiseless 

– is all about perfectionism. The Bellini was 

invented here, of course, and named after 

the great Venetian painter; it is topped by 

an unobtrusive layer of froth and made all 

year round from frozen peaches which 

almost seem to emulsify with the gentle 

foam of the Prosecco. 

RADICAL CLASSICISM 

The drinks at Harry’s Bar are carefully 

made, precisely measured, never rushed, 

never uneven, never slow to arrive, 

exquisitely crafted, never disappointing. 

There is nothing exotic, nothing modern, 

and nothing that could be considered 

“interesting.” This is radical classicism at 

the level of the Directoire. One 

might try a dry Martini, 

Left: The famous 

carpaccio of beef. 

Below: A view of 

the Grand Canal 

from the bar. 

an exemplary Bloody Mary, or a Bullshot 

of vodka and beef broth. There is the 

classic Negroni, the colour of a Venice sky, 

or a darker and lighter version – lighter in 

alcohol and darker in colour – Milano-Torino, 

without the gin. For late night 

stragglers there is the unctuous Stinger, 

Crème de Menthe and brandy, the pristine 

White Spider with vodka, or the tangy 

Daiquiri with rum and lemon juice. 

Some of the bartenders and waiters retire 

and are replaced. This is sad because it 

seems that things can never be as good 

without them, yet Harry’s Bar somehow 

manages to carry on, through fat and lean 

times, high and low tides, sometimes in 

defiance of fashion, sometimes riding on its 

crest. The inimitable Arrigo Cipriani, a 

year older than his eponymous restaurant, 

elegant in his suit, courteous and enigmatic, 

is still there most nights to personally 

welcome his customers and observe the 

proceedings with a watchful eye. Long may 

it continue. 

HARRY’ S BAR 

A Global Brand 

HARRYS BAR 

San Marco 1323, Venice 30124 

+39 041 5208822, cipriani.com 

open Fridays to Tuesdays 12 noon to 11pm 

Since opening in 1931, the whole world has 

come to visit Harry’s Bar. It is a fixture on the 

Venice bucket list. The service is perfect, as 

is the quality of all that is on offer but prices 

are exorbitant. It is for this reason that some 

visitors have surprisingly strong feelings 

about this landmark. 

Apart from the original bar, there are 16 

further bars, restaurants and lounges 

across the world. There are three Club-Hotels 

(in New York and Punta del Este in Uruguay) 

as well as an online shop for fine foods and 

hampers and catering businesses in New 

York, Miami, Mexico, Abu Dhabi and Venice. 

The Ciprianis clearly know how to make most 

of a name, since there are line extensions 

into meticulously styled Prosecco and Italian 

wines, ready-mixed cocktails, tonics and even 

books – a masterclass in branding. 

< 

< 

Photos: Getty Images/Jean-Noel DE SOYE, Depositphotos/©REDA&&CO, mauritius images / CuboImages / Eddy Buttarelli 


HOLIDAY TIME 

IS PRECIOUS. ALWAYS 

MAKE THE 

VERY BEST 

OF IT. 

WHATEVER YOU’RE LOOKING FOR: 

IT’S WAITING FOR YOU HERE. 

HOTEL | SPA | RESTAURANT & BAR 

BURGGASSE 2 | 1070 VIENNA, AUSTRIA | T: +43-1-522 25 20 

WWW.SANSSOUCI-WIEN.COM

food / GOAT’S CHEESES 

GOAT’S 

CHEESES 

Goat’s cheeses are usually 

small, but there is a 

surprising variety of them. 


SNOWY WHITE SHAPES 

OF TANGINESS 

These tiny cheeses not only pack a flavourful punch, they also 

come with much history and unusual health properties. 

WORDS NED PALMER 

Photo: StockFood / PhotoCuisine 


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105


Left: Mature, mould-ripened 

goat’s cheeses. Below: 

Moulding cheeses from curd. 

Inset: Baby goats jostle for 

position. 

Spring is on its way. Cheesemongers’ 

counters are beginning to fill 

with goat’s cheeses, appearing like 

buds among the hard Comtés and 

Cheddars of winter: little buttons, 

long cylinders, truncated pyramids. 

SEASONALITY 

Ruminant animals naturally give birth in 

spring and produce milk from then until 

autumn. Over the last few centuries, as 

winter feed has improved, farmers have 

managed to get cows to calve in early 

autumn so their milk, and cheese, are 

available throughout the year. Though 

some producers have managed to get goats 

to give milk all year round, too, goat’s 

cheeses still tend to be more seasonal. Thus 

we enjoy a flush of cheeses in early spring 

which tails off in the autumn. 

GOAT’S CHEESE BASICS 

Most traditional goat’s cheeses are small, 

soft and mould-ripened. France is arguably 

the greatest goat’s cheese 

nation, producing a wide and 

varied range. You can always 

identify a goat’s cheese, 

because its paste – the body 

of the cheese – will be a pure, 

snowy white, unlike the sunny 

yellow of a cow’s milk or the 

ivory of sheep’s milk. The mould 

rinds of these soft cheeses are often 

populated with snow-white Penicillium 

candidum, familiar from cheeses like 

Camembert, with a lightly vegetal note, 

and the wrinkle of Geotrichum which can 

add sulphuric notes. Some have dots of 

blue (Penicillium roqueforti) or heavier 

coats of grey mould which add a musty 

flavour. Many others are dusted with ash, 

the alkalinity of which lowers the acidity of 

the rind, making it easier for the moulds to 

grow. Some very young, fresh cheeses have 

no rinds at all. Goat’s cheeses will tend to 

have a creamy, spreadable texture, that gets 

firmer with age. Flavours often include 

A 

GOAT’S CHEESE 

PASTE WILL BE A 

PURE, SNOWY WHITE, 

UNLIKE THE SUNNY 

YELLOW OF A COW’S 

MILK, OR THE IVORY 

OF A SHEEP’S. 

Photos: StockFood / Brachat, Oliver, Shutterstock, StockFood / PhotoCuisine / Studio, Getty Images/ Kelley DeBettencourt 


chalk, hazel- or walnut, and herby, grassy 

notes. Figs, nuts and honey all make 

excellent partners on a cheese board. While 

goat’s cheeses revel in a suite of flavours, 

their most characteristic note is ‘goatiness’. 

A flavour for which there is no other word, 

and which some people find off-putting. 

This results from the presence of a set of 

medium-chain fatty acids: caproic, capric 

and caprylic – all Latinate ways of saying 

‘goaty.’ Goatier cheese can be the result of 

careful ageing by makers and affineurs who 

appreciate it, or of unskillful cheesemaking. 

Rough handling of the milk breaks the 

fatty acids up, unleashing their flavours. 

The goat-shy should seek out younger 

cheeses or be guided by a cheesemonger. 

HISTORY 

Goat’s cheese might be humanity’s first 

cheese. We believe goats were among the 

earliest animals to be domesticated, some 

10,000 years ago in the Zagros Mountains, 

in modern-day Turkey and Iran. Archaeological 

evidence suggests hunter-gatherers 

practiced an early form of transhumance, 

following the goats up the mountains to 

summer pastures, and back down again in 

autumn. Goats are also inquisitive and 

gregarious, which must have made them an 

easier candidate for domestication than the 

gigantic and heroically bad-tempered 

aurochs, ancestor of all modern domestic 

cattle. 

ROUGH HANDLING 

OF THE MILK 

BREAKS THE FATTY 

ACIDS UP, UNLEASHING 

THEIR 'GOATY' 

FLAVOURS. 

We do not know what kind of cheese was 

made at the time, but in a hot climate 

without refrigeration, it likely was fresh 

cheese, a bit like the Spanish queso fresco, 

or brined cheeses which can keep longer, 

like Greek feta or its Turkish cousin beyaz 

peyniri. Fresh and brined cheeses of this 

sort are delicious, if not particularly 

complex. When Neolithic farmers of the 

Fertile Crescent, succumbing to population 

pressure, began emigrating to Europe, 

bringing their cheesemaking skills with 

them, the cool, damp climate proved a 

perfect environment for cheeses to keep 

longer, developing mould rinds and new 

complex flavours as they aged. 

< 

A fresh Valençay cheese 

before maturation. Inset: 

Ste. Maure cheese with its 

tell-tale straw in the middle. 


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107


ORIGINS 

A selection of the world’s 

most prominent goat’s 

cheeses 

FRANCE 

A mature Valençay cheese 

with its characteristic rind of 

ash and mould. 

< 

GOAT CENTRAL: LOIRE 

A myriad of goat’s cheeses are made all 

over France, but the centre of excellence is 

the Loire Valley in central France. Legend 

has it that the goats of the region are 

descendants of Berber goats, a sort of 

on-the-hoof ration for the warriors who 

invaded the Frankish territories from 

Moorish Spain, until their defeat at the 

Battle of Tours in 732. Another explanation 

for the preponderance of goats in this area 

of France is that the soil, while too poor for 

most crops, is as perfect for hardy goats as 

for the vines that flourish there. 

Crottin is the star of the Loire Valley. 

Amusingly, its name refers to the resemblance 

between shrunken, brown, older 

cheeses and a goat turd, crot being the local 

dialect word for the excrement. Younger 

YOUNGER CHEESES 

ARE SOFT AND 

PUDGY, WITH FRESH 

AND MILD FLAVOURS, 

WHILE OLDER ONES 

HAVE PEPPERY, 

INTENSE NOTES WITH 

AN ANIMALISTIC TANG. 

Loire/Centre 

St Maure de Touraine: 15cm logs, grey 

with wrinkly rind. 

Selles-sur-Cher: 7cm disks, grey and 

black wrinkly rind. 

Valençay: 7cm high pyramids, grey 

wrinkly rind. 

Crottin de Chavignol: 60-100g stumpy 

cylinders, white when young, shading to 

brown when aged. 

Bourgogne 

Bouton de Culotte: Tiny buttons shading 

from white, via grey to orange-brown 

with age. 

Charolais: 7cm high cylinders, cream-coloured 

to reddish brown. 

Midi-Pyrénées 

Cabécou de Rocamadour: The AOC 

version of a Cabécou (Occitan for ‘small 

goat’s cheese’). 5cm disks, shading from 

cream to orange with blue flecks. 

Picadou: Cabécou wrapped in walnut 

leaves, sprayed with eau-de-vie de prune 

(plum fruit distillate) and matured in an 

airless container. Fierce. 

Provence 

Buchette de Manon: 10cm thin logs, set 

on a thin strip of wood, with a scattering 

of sarriette (winter savoury). 

Banon à la Feulle: 6cm disks wrapped in 

a chestnut leaf. 

ENGLAND 

Dorstone: 8cm cylinders, black and white, 

occasional flecks of blue-green. 

Harbourne Blue: A rare blue goat’s cheese: 

20cm diameter wheels, rindless. 

HOLLAND 

Wyngaard Goat Gouda: Large round-edged 

wheels, white with a shading of pink. 

IRELAND 

Killeen Goat Gouda: Large round-edged 

wheels, light tan. 

SCOTLAND 

Blackmount: 8cm tall black pyramids. 

Peppery, salty, intense goat notes. 

SPAIN 

Garrotxa: 15cm rounds, light to dark 

grey. 

Olavidia: 12cm squares with white mould 

rind and olive-stone ash strip in the 

centre of the cheese. 

Photos: StockFood / Wexel, Dirk Olaf, Getty Images/ Sima_ha, Getty Images/ Julian Elliott Photography 


cheeses are soft and pudgy with fresh mild 

flavours, while older ones have an intense, 

peppery flavour with an animalistic tang. 

The most mature are so hard that they can 

be shaved onto a salad or onto bread and 

toasted. Another star is Sainte Maure 

which comes in long, grey logs, with a 

hollow straw down the middle to hold it 

together. They are soft, much creamier 

than a Crottin, and come with a 

luxuriant texture when young. 

Then there is Valençay, a tall, 

truncated pyramid, covered 

in ash. Its shape is subject 

to historic myth: apparently 

Valençay used to 

have pointy tops until 

Napoleon, after his 

defeat in Egypt in 1802, 

could no longer bear the 

site of pyramids, so his 

ministers ordered their 

tops to be removed. 

However, the shape is simply 

more practical: pointed tops 

would be incredibly hard to 

handle as they matured. These 

cheeses are a pleasing example of the 

maxim “what grows together, goes 

together.” Their salty, mineral flavours pair 

perfectly with the flinty white wines of the 

region, such as Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. 

OTHER GOAT’S CHEESES 

Provence also supplies the world with some 

excellent cheese. The most famous of these, 

and the prettiest, is Banon, a small disc 

wrapped in a chestnut leaf. The cheesemakers 

of Provence use less salt than those of 

the Loire and set their milk swiftly, leaving 

less time for acidity to develop. Sweeter 

than their Loire cousins, these cheeses go 

perfectly with the ripe, fruity rosé wines of 

that region – a perfect summer snack. 

DIGESTIBILITY & HEALTH 

French mould-ripened goat’s cheeses tend 

to be small, ranging from 60g to about 

250g. This is only in part down to the fact 

that goats are smaller than cows and give 

less milk, since their milk is also lower 

casein alpha-S1, the milk protein responsible 

for structure in a cheese. It is this 

Inset: Mature Spanish Garrotxa 

cheese and below right: A view 

of Chavignol, a French village in 

the Loire Valley equally famous 

for its Crottin cheese and its 

Sancerre white wine. 

protein – much more prevalent in cow’s 

milk – that provokes allergic reactions in 

some people. Sufferers tend to find that 

goat’s milk and cheese are much easier to 

tolerate. The fat particles in goat’s milk are 

also smaller than those in cow’s milk, 

which make it easier for everyone to digest, 

intolerances or allergies aside. 

This is not new knowledge. Pliny the 

Elder in his Naturalis Historia states with 

his usual authority that “goat’s milk agrees 

the best with the stomach.” He also 

recommends a medicine made from the 

whey boiled up with wine which is 

“administered in cases of epilepsy, melancholy, 

paralysis, leprosy, elephantiasis, and 

diseases of the joints.” For most of these 

ailments we recommend sticking with 

modern medicine, though we agree that a 

good goat’s cheese washed down with some 

crisp white wine is an excellent cure for 

melancholy. 

< 


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109

drinks / SINGLE-ESTATE COFFEE 

SINGULAR 

COFFEE 

Coffee is one of the world’s most universal 

beverages, beloved for its aroma and stimulant 

qualities. Now a new and exciting category 

of single-estate coffees has emerged. 

WORDS PHILIPP ELSBROCK 

Photo: Juan Pablo Serrano Arenas/pexels 


Coffee beans being roasted, 

just one of the processes 

that receives great attention 

in the production of singleestate 

coffee. 


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111


Above: The fertile valleys and mountains of 

Colombia’s ‘Coffee Triangle’. Below: Red coffee 

cherries which are raked and left to dry (inset). 

Whether it is the aroma 

or the caffeine that gets 

us hooked – coffee is 

more popular than 

ever. Over the past 

year, world consumption rose from 9.84 

million metric tonnes in 2020 to 9.99 million 

in 2021. Most of the coffee consumed 

globally and traded as a commodity in 

world markets, is sold in blends that 

reproduce a reliable flavour profile. While 

these are all about familiarity and consistency, 

single-estate coffee offers a completely 

different and distinct experience. 

Photos: Shutterstock, Michael Burrows/pexels, Burst/Pexels, Janko Ferlic/pexels 


A NEW NICHE 

While single-estate coffee is a niche market 

aimed at coffee lovers and flavour obsessives, 

the evolution of this emerging category 

is down to two distinct factors. On the one 

hand it is traceability and transparency 

since consumers are increasingly concerned 

about the origin of their food and drink. 

They care where, how and by whom 

produce is grown, and the environmental 

and social impacts of farming, production 

and transport. Then there is the reborn 

trend of filter and even cold-brew coffee – 

ways of preparing and consuming coffee 

that lend themselves to exploring coffee’s 

flavours in much more detail. Hip coffee 

bars no longer rely on one or two houseblends, 

in order to appeal and stand out 

from the crowd, the offer has to be 

different and singular. Thus the world of 

coffee has moved from the generic to the 

specific and the world of coffee – like that 

of chocolate, tea or wine – is becoming 

ever more pixelated. Speciality coffee 

roasters offer tasting flights of 

single-estate coffees and sell tasting 

sets – complete with tasting notes 

and details on farming, farmer and 

post-harvest processing. Exact 

recipes or “brew guides” are given to 

specify grinding grade, the exact 

weight in grammes of coffee per 

millilitres of water. For filter coffee there is 

an exact water temperature, for espresso 

the number of extraction seconds – appealing 

to a very 21st century zeitgeist. Coffee 

freaks can geek out to their hearts’ content 

while flavour aficionados can explore 

whole new dimensions of aroma. 

WHAT IS SINGLE ESTATE? 

Single-estate coffees are different from 

single origin coffees. By now every 

well-stocked supermarket offers single-origin 

coffees – from Columbia, Rwanda or 

Ecuador – but single-estate coffee takes this 

further and drills down to a single coffee 

estate or farm or cooperative – or washing 

station. While single-origin coffee can mix 

Arabica and Robusta beans, single-estate 

coffee is usually based on 100 percent 

Arabica beans. There are numerous 

cultivars of Arabica, like Bourbon, Geisha, 

Pacamara or Sagada. Single-estate coffees 

can be from one or more cultivars. This 

allows for very particular flavours and 

aromas to dominate. Rather than being 

accommodated or toned down in a blend, 

here the particular taste and flavour is 

naked and unadulterated. This is why 

single-estate coffees are prized. What is 

important to note is that while single-estate 

coffee is of high quality, it is not only 

quality that makes the difference, since 

blends can also be of impeccable quality – 

it is the specificity that makes this market. 

It follows that the farming of these 

single-estate coffees, their processing and 

roasting is more scrutinised and better 

understood, too. In the merciless and 

highly volatile commodity market of 

coffee, here is chance for farmers and 

roasters to offer something distinct and 

special. 

The extraction time for 

the perfect espresso is 

measured in seconds. 

Inset: Explore new aromas 

with a single cup of coffee. 

HIP COFFEE BARS 

NO LONGER RELY 

ON ONE OR TWO 

HOUSE-BLENDS IN 

ORDER TO APPEAL 

AND STAND OUT 

FROM THE CROWD. 

INFINITE DETAIL 

In single-estate coffee, every aspect, every 

step from farm to cup gains importance. 

Where is the coffee grown? In what soil, 

altitude or climate? Are the coffee ‘cherries’ 

handpicked? Coffee is in effect a stone 

fruit and coffee beans are the seeds inside a 

fruit that is red when it is ripe, hence they 

are known as coffee cherries. The ‘cherry’ 

skin and pulp has to be removed to get 

to the coffee bean. There are two ways of 

doing that – either ‘washed’ or ‘natural’. 

Washed means that the skin and pulp 

< 


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113


< 

are removed 

mechanically 

and the beans 

are then soaked 

and fermented to 

soften the pulp or 

mucilage around 

the seed which is then 

washed off with more 

water. The clean beans are 

then dried. This means that 

the coffee flavour is down to the bean 

alone. This is faster but expensive because 

it takes equipment and it also requires 

access to water. The other way, referred to 

as ‘natural,’ is to dry the cherries on trays 

or terraces, a process prone to risk as the 

coffee can rot. Once dry, the skin and pulp 

can be removed and the bean is exposed. 

This contact between bean and skin if done 

well can add particularly fruity flavours to 

coffee or terrible off-flavours when done 

badly. The difference between washed 

or natural is one of style, not quality. An 

in-between process is known as honey processing 

where much of the skin and flesh 

is removed mechanically but some flesh 

remains during the drying process. Length 

and temperature of fermentation or of 

drying all have an effect on flavour. 

Many single-estate coffees state these 

differences so that connoisseurs can choose 

the style they prefer. Coffees processed by 

a single washing station that collects from 

several small, local farmers are also classed 

as single-estate. 

Happy harvesters 

of Arabica coffee 

cherries. Inset: Coffee 

beans after the pulp 

and outer skins have 

been removed. 

IT IS THE NATURE OF 

THE BUSINESS THAT 

SINGLE-ESTATE 

COFFEES ARE TRADED 

IN MUCH SMALLER 

QUANTITIES. 

COST & FAIRNESS 

Naturally single-estate coffee is much more 

expensive. As a commodity, coffee beans 

are traded and tracked – they made 

headlines in December 2021 when the 

composite price, an indicator that combines 

the prices for Arabica and Robusta 

beans, broke the $2 mark per pound 

– 454g. On 9 February 2022, that price 

reached a ten-year-high of $2.60 per 

pound. Retail consumers can buy ordinary 

blended coffee very cheaply: a 250g pack 

of roasted ground coffee can cost less than 

$3/£2 – single-origin coffees will set you 

back at least three times that amount. 

Naturally, they can be much more expensive 

than that, some are even sold at 

auctions. It is in the nature of the business 

that single-estate coffees are traded in much 

smaller quantities and trades are usually 

direct – and thus fair to the farmers. 

Considering what goes into growing and 

post-harvest processing, and the fact that 

their coffee has to be good enough to be 

palatable as a single-estate coffee, the prices 

for single-estate coffees seem cheap. In the 

normal coffee business, substandard flavours 

can and are blended away – as they 

are in tea, wine and cocoa. In single-estate 

coffee there is no place to hide. Jan-Cort 

Hoban, a speciality coffee importer and 

roaster based in Hamburg, Germany, says: 

“The farmers can hardly afford to make 

mistakes.” Hoban buys in quantities of 

60kg but also says: “My clients can clearly 

taste the difference.” 

What makes single-estate coffees even 

more interesting is that certain batches 

simply sell out: a bit like a vintage in wine. 

Single-estate coffees come from Kenya and 

Nicaragua, Honduras and Sumatra, Peru, 

Colombia, Ethiopia, China and Rwanda – 

simply everywhere that coffee grows. The 

tasting notes are intriguing: “orange blossom, 

cherry, liquorice, anise, raisin, sugar 

cane, roasted almond, peach, pomegranate, 

molasses and blueberry” are all terms you 

come across. So if you are looking for new 

flavour obsessions you know where to head 

next. 

< 

Photos: Shutterstock 


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KITCHEN JOTTINGS 

Kitchen Columnist 

LILY COOK 

MOROCCAN 

LAMB: A NEW TWIST 

Roasting is a favourite way of preparing meat – be it chicken, beef or lamb. 

There is something wonderful about that transformation from raw to cooked. 

Our columnist dresses an old favourite with new flavour – to great effect. 

R 

oast meat – yes, this primal 

worship of the flesh has 

been, is and will be central 

to human feasting. In spite 

of much more awareness 

surrounding the consumption of meat, the 

roast is still a centrepiece at Christmas, 

Easter and countless other festivals and 

gatherings. It is essential to Argentina’s 

gaucho culture with asado; it showcases 

New Zealand’s indigenous heritage in 

Hangi, the tradition of roasting meat over 

heated stones set into the ground – but in 

many homes globally, the ‘humble’ roast is 

enjoyed all year round. 

Whether you take the British route of 

roast beef with Yorkshire pudding and 

fluffy roast potatoes, a whole lamb cooked 

over an open fire, or a spit with a pig on it, 

rotating until the meat is soft and juicy, it is 

undeniable that for carnivores, roasting is 

one of the best ways to enjoy meat. What is 

more, by changing your accompaniments, 

adding different flavours and adjusting 

cooking methods, you can reinvent the 

less-than-humble roast regardless of season. 

Hence one of my favourite variations on 

a classic theme: slow-roasted shoulder of 

lamb with Moroccan spices. In these latitudes, 

typically, the leg is more common as 

a roast and then served with mint sauce or 

redcurrant jelly, roast potatoes and gravy. 

Delicious. However, in the words of Cole 

Porter, “anything goes.” Take your meat, be 

inspired by a whole world of flavours and 

take the plunge. 

You can make your own Moroccan spice 

mix by combining ground cumin, paprika, 

coriander, turmeric, allspice, cloves, ginger 

and cinnamon, but equally any good supermarket 

will sell Ras El Hanout ready-made. 

Its warming, sweet flavour works perfectly 

with lamb. I particularly like a shoulder, it’s 

a more affordable cut and you can cook it 

for hours, allowing the fat to break down 

and the meat to become meltingly tender. 

This, in turn, ensures all the flavours from 

the spice mix infuse the meat, giving a 

deep, rich flavour. 

The accompaniments to this dish are just 

as varied and fabulous. I’m going to recommend 

roast vegetables with harissa, served 

on a bed of freekeh. I have chosen bell peppers 

and courgettes but honestly, you can 

use whatever vegetable you like, harissa 

works really well with most of them. 

In place of potatoes, I present freekeh. It 

is made from green grains of durum wheat 

which are roasted and rolled to deliver a 

nutty, smoked flavour. I love freekeh as an 

alternative to couscous, it is so much more 

interesting and compliments the flavours of 

the spiced lamb and roasted vegetables 

perfectly. 

MOROCCAN SPICED LAMB 

Serves 8 

INGREDIENTS 

Shoulder of lamb (approx. 1.8kg) 

Ras El Hanout spice mix 

500g freekeh 

1L chicken stock 

3 onions sliced 

2 red & 2 yellow bell peppers, chopped 

2 courgettes, chopped 

3 garlic cloves 

Handful each of fresh mint and coriander, chopped 

Harissa paste 

METHOD 

– Rub the lamb liberally with Ras El Hanout, cutting 

into the flesh to allow spices to penetrate, 

rest in the fridge for at least 3 hours or overnight. 

– Pre-heat the oven to 160°C/320°F. 

– Place the sliced onions in a large roasting dish, 

then add 300ml of water, place lamb on top and 

cover tightly with aluminium foil or lid, cook for 

three hours, then remove foil/lid and cook for a 

further hour until nicely coloured. 

– Meanwhile, chop all the vegetables and combine 

in a roasting pan, add salt, pepper and harissa paste 

and mix well, roast for about 30-40 minutes. 

– Put freekeh in a pot and add 1L chicken stock, 

cook for approximately 20 minutes until tender. 

– While the freekeh is cooking, thinly slice an onion 

and sauté in a pan with olive oil until tender. 

– Once the freekeh is cooked, drain it and add to 

the onion with 1 tsp of ground cinnamon, place in 

a serving dish and add the chopped herbs. 

– Pour the roasting juices into a jug and rest until 

the fat rises to the top, spoon off. 

– Carve the lamb and serve with freekeh, vegetables 

and roasting juices. 

Portrait: Vanessa Keevil Photography Food: Stine Christiansen / Styling: Thomas Steinmann 


More recipes at: 

falstaff.com/recipes 


falstaff 

117

More news 



falstaff.com/newsletter/ 

TRAVEL 

AFRICA 

ABC TO OPEN NEW 

LUXURY SAFARI 

CAMP IN ZAMBIA 

African Bush Camps (ABC) will open 

a new luxury safari camp in Zambia 

in June. The solar-powered Lolebezi 

camp is located in the Lower Zambezi 

National Park and designed to showcase 

the “beauty and power of the Zambezi 

river.” The safari drives promise “close perspectives 

of wildlife” such as elephants, leopards, 

lions and buffaloes. The camp also 

offers an open-air cinema set in an acacia 

forest, a spa and wellness facilities and 

“strategically placed river pods” available 

for private picnics. Up to 16 guests can stay 

at the six suites, two of which are familysized, 

all come with private plunge pools. 

africanbushcamps.com 

AUSTRALIA 

CLOONEY’S TEQUILA TO 

TRANSFORM AWARD- 

WINNING ZEPHYR ROOF- 

TOP BAR IN SYDNEY 

Casamigos, the Tequila brand founded by 

actor George Clooney and Rande Gerber, 

now owned by Diageo, has partnered with 

Zephyr, the rooftop bar in Sydney’s Hyatt 

Regency hotel, to open a five-week "Tequila 

lovers’ paradise.” The move coincides with 

Casamigo’s launch in Australia. Zephyr has 

created special cocktails, like the Tequila 

Colada Slushie and the Supersonic Jalisco 

that guests can sip while overlooking Darling 

Harbour. zephyrbarsydney.com 

CRUISING 

HOLLAND-AMERICA LINE 

TO ADD MORE VESSELS 

The premium cruise operator currently has six 

vessels operating in the Caribbean, Hawaii, 

South Pacific and US West Coast. From May, it 

will add another four ships to service Australia 

and Europe. hollandamerica.com 


NEWS 

ITALY 

MALIBU’S THE RANCH 

RESORT OPENS IN ITALY 

The California-based luxury and wellness 

retreat will debut its new programme at 

Palazzo Fiuggi in May 2022. Just 50 minutes 

from Rome, the resort sits in a private hilltop 

park in the spa town of Fonte, famed for its 

healing Fiuggi waters. Like the California original, 

the Italian programme will offer the 25 

weekly guests The Ranch’s “signature no-options 

experience”. This means a morning hike 

in the Apennine mountains, a nap, strength 

training , yoga and massages, combined with 

a "nutrient-dense, plant-based diet”. 

theranchmalibu.com 

HS HOTSSON HOTEL OPENS IN 

MEXICO CITY’S CONDESA SUR 

Preferred Hotels & Resorts will open its 

latest hotel in Mexico City’s vibrant Condesa 

district, beloved for its nightlife and 

bohemian atmosphere. The property is 

ideally located for the Paseo de la Reforma, 

the city’s museum-lined thoroughfare 

and the large Chapultepec Park. 

preferredhotels.com 

Photos: African Bush Camps, Shutterstock, Casamigos/Wes Nel Photography, Tyson Sadlo 

USA 

ITALY 

FOUR SEASONS HOTELS JOIN FOR 

"ULTIMATE” ROUTE 66 ROAD TRIP 

Catering to the resurgence of the road trip, the Four Seasons’ 

hotels in Chicago and St. Louis have teamed up to offer a 

485km/300 mile self-drive city-to-city journey along Route 

66. Known as ‘The Main Street of America,’ Route 66 passes 

landmarks such as Abraham Lincoln’s home in Springfield, 

Illinois. Concierges can offer plenty of insider tips. 

fourseasons.com 

LAZIO OFFERS COUPLES 

€2,000 FOR WEDDING 

The Italian region of Lazio is offering to pay 

couples up to €2,000 towards the cost of 

their marriage or civil union, if the ceremony 

takes place in the central Italian region this 

year. Each couple can apply to be reimbursed 

for up to five expenses such as catering, 

apparel, car hire, rings and their honeymoon if 

those products or services are bought from 

companies in Lazio before 31 December 

2022. Both local and foreign lovebirds are 

eligible, which should spell the start of an Italian 

summer of love. 

regione.lazio.it/nellazioconamore 

JAPAN’S WILD DRAGON ROUTE 

NOW OFFERS ELECTRIC BIKES 

The bespoke tour starts on a regular 

motorbike in Nagoya, but switches to a 

zero-emissions e-motorbike at the Gujo 

Hachiman Castle in the Gifu Prefecture. 

The scenic route runs from the Pacific 

Ocean to the Sea of Japan and takes in 

various sights: "Thrilling mountain roads, 

breathtaking natural scenery, and national 

treasures like Japanese castles.” 

Special points of interest are the Motorcar 

Museum in Komatsu City, the Kenrokuen 

garden, Chirihama Nagisa Beach 

Driveway and a ride around the Noto 

Peninsula. The tour includes visits to the 

Shioyasu traditional lacquer painting 

workshop, the Wakura Hot Spring, a traditional 

tea ceremony, distillery and a 

swordsmith demonstration at the Sanshu 

Seki Knife Centre before concluding at 

Nagoya Castle. dragonroute.net 


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119

travel / MARRAKECH & MOROCCO 

MARRAKECH 

& MOROCCO 

View of Marrakech’s 

Kutubiyya Mosque at 

sunset with Jemaa 

el-Fna Square in the 

foreground. 

Photo: Shutterstock 


Saharan sand and stars, souks and snake charmers, spices 

and scents – it is this mix of ancient and modern, of sensuous 

intensity, that gives Morocco and Marrakech their enduring 

appeal. Come and discover. 

WORDS SARAH MARSHALL 


falstaff 

121


Dressed in dazzling hues and 

swathed with exotic colours, 

no city strikes a pose quite 

like Marrakech. Oranges 

dangle from fruiting boughs 

like balls of blazing sunshine, mounds of 

raging-red cayenne pepper illuminate spice 

shop doorways and vibrant palms tickle 

bright blue skies. 

When French fashion designer Yves Saint 

Laurent first visited Morocco’s bohemian 

artist enclave in 1966, he was struck: "The 

city opened my eyes to colour," the 

Algerian-born artist declared, reflecting on 

his decision to buy a property in the city 

with his partner Pierre Berge. 

Decades later, it was restored and 

reopened as Jardin Majorelle – now one of 

the most popular tourist attractions in the 

country. A calm escape from the chaotic 

streets of the medina, the landscaped space 

is filled with hidden corners and nooks. 

Soaring cacti stand like sentinels at the 

doorway of cobalt blue buildings, ferns fan 

from yellow clay pots and paths wind 

through forests of bamboo. But walking 

through the picturesque place is about 

much more than posing for selfies. The 

Left: Jardin Majorelle, designer Yves Saint 

Laurent’s former home. Below: The vibrant 

colours of the spice market. 

Photos: Jonathan Prime, Zakariae Daoui/unsplash, Mari Potter/unsplash, Othmane Deghlouz/unsplash, Yves Saint Laurent. Place Djemaa El Fna/Reginald Gray 


Colours blaze between red 

earth and verdant gardens. 

Above: The Yves Saint Laurent museum and 

the designer in 1960s Morocco (inset). 

gardens, in all their technicolour glory, sum 

up the allure of this mysterious, atmospheric 

and – at times – clandestine city. 

Turn every corner and there is a new roof 

terrace restaurant or underground bar to 

discover. Filled with surprising sights, 

complex aromas and a cacophony of 

sounds – it is a destination that promises to 

challenge every sense. 

Neighbouring Jardin Majorelle, the 

Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech 

(mYSLm) features a parade of mannequins 

wearing some of the fashion maestro’s most 

famous designs, serving as a visual timeline 

of his career. The jumpsuit and smoking 

jacket have become high street staples, but 

their origins thread back to YSL’s sketchbooks. 

Elsewhere, brocade jackets pay 

homage to Van Gogh, while hooded cloaks, 

tassel-fringed gowns and feminine Fez hats 

honour Morocco’s national dress. 

Although these pieces of haute couture 

are no longer for sale, you can pick up your 

own Middle Eastern-inspired apparel in the 

EMBROIDERED 

BABOUCHE 

SLIPPERS IN A 

RAINBOW OF COLOURS 

HANG FROM STALLS, 

ALONG WITH SIMPLE 

SHOULDER BAGS. 

medina’s labyrinth of souks 

north from the Jemaa el-Fna 

square. Embroidered babouche 

slippers in a rainbow of 

colours hang from stalls, along 

with a selection of simple 

shoulder bags. 

For more finely crafted products, 

head to Souk Cherifa in the Mouassine 

neighbourhood. Balancing old with new, 

there are contemporary designs at Norya 

Ayron, where silk kaftans by French-Algerian 

designer Nyora Nemiche waft from 

rails, along with beaded belts beloved by 

A-list celebrities. At Max & Jan, you find 

drapey dresses, straw bags and bouclé 

jackets, while Al Nour allows guilt-free 

splurges: its linen blouses and tunics are 

made by a team of disabled tailors who 

benefit directly from all profits made. 

As darkness falls, a melodic call to 

prayer floats from minarets and smoke 

plumes rise from stalls selling a mixture of 

sizzling Middle Eastern street food. 

< 


falstaff 

123


BEYOND THE 

SNOW-CAPPED 

ATLAS MOUNTAINS, 

LIE THE SPRAWLING, 

SCINTILLATING 

SANDS OF THE 

SAHARA DESERT. 

Ancient Moorish patterns grace buildings and fountains. 

< 

In Jemaa el-Fna, storytellers captivate 

audiences while snake charmers perform 

their ancient, precarious art. 

In recent years, the city’s food scene has 

boomed, with options ranging from 

laidback, modern brunch cafés right 

through to late-night cocktail bars – filling 

the once gaping gap between high-end 

hotel restaurants and cheap canteens. 

At Le Trou Au Mur, a casual diner from 

the owners of boutique hotel Le Farnatchi, 

you choose from a menu of forgotten 

classics rarely served outside Moroccan 

homes. Mechoui, a slow-cooked lamb dish, 

is a stand-out favourite. Part of a renovated 

house buried in the medina’s backstreet, the 

restaurant is best reached with a guide who 

can escort guests from a main thoroughfare, 

if they ring ahead. 

It is tempting to fritter away days 

exploring the city’s sights, like the opulent 

16th century Saadian Tombs, a mausoleum 

decorated with marble, or al-Mansour’s 

Badi Palace and its grand reflecting pools. 

But there is more to discover outside and 

beyond the city limits. 

DESERTS, DUNES AND 

MEDIAEVAL MARVELS 

Beyond the snow-capped Atlas Mountains, 

visible from every rooftop on a clear day, 

lie the sprawling, scintillating sands of the 

Sahara Desert. 

Travelling by four-wheel-drive through 

Merzouga, you tumble over a rollercoaster 

of dunes before continuing by camel – a 

mode of transport favoured by Bedouin 

caravans for centuries – to reach your 

desert camp. Poured from copper pots 

reminiscent of a genie’s lamp, small cups of 

sweet mint tea are offered as you arrive at 

the tented domes. After sunset, a fire is lit 

and dancing begins as you dine on meats 

served in traditional clay tagines. 

But the best show takes place once 

everyone has gone to sleep. Stepping 

outside your carpeted canvas home, 

stare up at the night sky, where stars 

burn brightly through a smoky trail 

formed by the Milky Way. With not a 

Inset: Cacti sprout in doorways of the city. 

Below: Colourful tagines for sale in a market. 

Photos: Niklas Schweinzer/unsplash, Jessic< Kantak Bailey/unsplash, Getty Images/Ashley Cooper, Shutterstock 


The roller-coaster dunes 

of Merzouga are best 

crossed by camel. 

single electric light for miles around, it is 

possible to join the dots between the 

constellations that have guided travellers 

for millennia. 

The story of Morocco’s past is best told 

through the many ruins of kasbahs, 

mosques and madrasas found across the 

country. Until the 5th century AD, Morocco 

remained under Roman rule. Evidence can 

be found at Unesco World Heritage site 

Volubilis. Set on plains surrounded by 

wheat fields, ruins of the former walled city 

have since been commandeered by storks 

nesting on top of the grand columns. 

Regardless, the triumphant arches and 

intricate mosaic floors retain their grandeur. 

You step over depictions of marine 

creatures in an imaginary ocean and images 

of Poseidon’s wife Amphitrite riding a seahorse-drawn 

chariot through the waves. 

The site is easily reached from Fez, often 

described as Morocco’s cultural heartland. 

Scholars, philosophers and intellectuals 

once gathered in this centre of Islamic 

learning, alongside merchants selling wares 

collected along the Silk Road. Today, 

donkey carts replace cars on the engine-free 

streets, while mediaeval mosques and 

madrasas still stand tall. With 9,000 

narrow lanes to negotiate, it’s all too easy 

to get lost in the medina, where carpet-makers 

weave in the back of dusty workshops 

and coppersmiths hammer patterns into 

brass lamps. 

Despite the stomach-churning stench, a 

visit to the Chouara Tannery is fascinating. 

After taking a tour of the giant baths where 

leather hides have been washed and dyed 

since the 16th century, you will feel the 

HAVE DINNER 

SURROUNDED BY 

ROSE PETALS AND 

JASMINE FLOWERS, 

SIPPING A FRESH 

GLASS OF ORANGE 

BLOSSOM MILK. 

need to scrub away unpleasant aromas 

with a hamman in the spa of the Maison 

Bleue riad. Once cleansed, retreat to a 

rooftop terrace to hear the evening call to 

prayer. End your evening at the Ruined 

Garden, a former merchant’s house 

transformed into a beautiful garden and 

baking school, with a dinner surrounded by 

rose petals and jasmine flowers, sipping a 

fresh glass of orange blossom milk. 

Being a predominantly dry city, it is hard 

to find bars serving alcohol in Fez. But 

Riad Fès is an exception. The poolside wine 

bar offers tasting sessions focusing exclusively 

on Moroccan wines. 

Far greater immersion in local grapes is 

on offer at Domaine de la Zouina, an estate 

in Meknès, not far from Fez. Applauded for 

its fine bottles, including the popular 

Volubilia label, the French-owned vineyard 

benefits from the Mediterranean climate, 

with flavours defined by the Chergui – a 

southeasterly desert wind. Once you have 

toured the estate, sit down to a tasting, 

accompanied by goat’s cheeses from the 

region and olive oil produced on site. 

< 


falstaff 

125


Left: El Fenn offers a perfect spot 

for outdoor dining. 

Inset: Poolside paradise at the Four 

Seasons hotel in Casablanca. 

< 

There are more opportunities to raise 

a glass in the port city of Casablanca, the 

country’s commercial hub. Alongside the 

Hassan II Mosque, the tallest religious 

structure in the world, 1940s-themed bar 

Rick’s Café is a playful interpretation of the 

fictional gin joint from the 1942 movie 

classic Casablanca. The elegant jazz bar is 

filled with beaded table lamps, brass 

lanterns and a pianist playing nostalgic 

tunes on a baby grand. 

Sitting in the shadows, while listening to 

the music, you can watch well-dressed 

women and happy tourists parade through 

the theatrical space. Based on make-believe, 

the whole set up is arguably nothing more 

than a mirage. But it sums up the beauty of 

Morocco. In a place where legends and 

stories form the fabric of modern society, 

colourful imaginations freely run wild. 

ADDRESSES 

MANDARIN ORIENTAL MARRAKECH 

Petals from more than 100,000 roses flutter in 

large gardens surrounding palatial villas. For cocktails, 

book a table at Asian restaurant Ling Ling; for 

Moroccan fare try Shirvan café Metisse. Rooms 

from 9,520 MAD/€1,040 with breakfast. 

mandarinoriental.com 

+212 524 29 88 88 

LE FARNATCHI, MARRAKECH 

A traditional home converted into ten stylish suites. 

A pool, rooftop barbecue area and a spa with 

two hammams complete the pretty picture. Rooms 

from 3,400 MAD/€320 with breakfast. 

lefarnatchi.com 

+212 524 38 49 10 

EL FENN, MARRAKECH 

Drapes billow from colonnaded balconies overlooking 

sun-splashed courtyards in this trendy riad 

co-founded by Vanessa Branson. 

Rooms from €4,070/€385, including 

breakfast and afternoon tea. 

el-fenn.com 

+212 524 44 12 10 

RIAD ELEGANCIA, MARRAKECH 

Faithfully restored by local artisans, this 11-room 

riad displays Morocco’s finest architectural flourishes. 

Find studded cedarwood doors, walls 

decorated with zelliges and hand-painted ceilings. 

From 929 MAD/€89 with breakfast. 

riadelegancia.com 

+212 524 38 69 80 

HOTEL SAHRAI, FEZ 

Located on a hilltop, this smart five-star property 

is an escape from the madness of the medina. 

Relax in North Africa’s only Givenchy spa and enjoy 

late night drinks in the rooftop bar and bodega. 

Rooms from 2,844 MAD/€270 with breakfast. 

hotelsahrai.com/en 

+212 535 94 03 32 

FOUR SEASONS CASABLANCA 

Listen to Atlantic waves crashing against the shoreline 

at this beachside property, a 10-minute drive 

from the city centre. Rooms from 2,640 MAD/ 

€250 with breakfast. 

fourseasons.com/Casablanca 

+212 529 07 37 00 

LE TROU AU MUR, MARRAKECH 

An intimate laidback restaurant in the oldest part 

of the medina, serving dishes cooked in a traditional 

mechoui clay oven, next door to Le Farnatchi. 

Hotel Sahrai in Fez offers North 

Africa’s only Givenchy spa. 

letrouaumur.com 

+212 524 38 49 00 

LE KILIM, MARRAKECH 

This bistro spot in Gueliz (the New Town) has one 

of the city’s best brunch menus. 

lekilim.com/en 

+212 524 44 69 99 

L’MIDA, MARRAKECH 

With rooftop views gazing out to the mountains, 

this is ideal for sunset meals. Chef and cookbook 

author Narjisse Benkabbou oversees the menu. 

lmidamarrakech.com/en 

+212 524 44 36 62 

THE RUINED GARDEN, FEZ 

Once a crumbling mess, the secret garden of Riad 

Idrissy was cleared to reveal beautiful fountains 

and mosaic floors. Open for lunch and dinner. 

ruinedgarden.com 

+212 643 23 00 45 

SCORPION HOUSE, MOULAY IDRISS 

A former maitre d’hotel at London’s The Ivy and 

Wolseley restaurants, Mike Richardson opened his 

private home for exclusive supper clubs. Menus can 

be personalised for two to 40 people. 

scorpionhouse.com 

+212 535 54 47 29 

DOMAINE DE LA ZOUINA, MEKNÈS 

A French owned and operated estate in the wine 

region surrounding Meknès. Affordable rosés are 

as delicate as anything you will find in Provence. 

domainezouina.com/en 

+212 535 43 30 34 

LE CABESTAN, CASABLANCA 

Eat excellent seafood with even finer ocean views 

at one of the city’s oldest restaurants, entertaining 

diners on the corniche since 1927. 

le-cabestan.com 

+212 522 39 11 90 

< 

Photos: El Fenn/ Cécile Treal, Four Seasons Casablanca, Hotel Sahari 


KVARNER REGION 

KVARNER – THE ADRIATIC 

GOURMET DESTINATION 

The Kvarner region on the north-west Adriatic coast of Croatia is making 

a name for itself with great local produce, fine wines and original, authentic 

cuisine – it is well on its way to becoming Croatia’s new gastronomic hotspot. 

ADVERTORIAL Photos: © Sandro Tariba; Frank Heuer; provided 

Some of these places may already 

sound familiar as many Europeans 

are already regular visitors to the 

fabulous coastlines, mountainous 

areas and gorgeous islands: the Kvarner region 

is home to the enchanting Opatija and 

Crikvenica rivieras and the paradise islands 

of Rab, Cres, Krk and Lošinj. The lovely 

coastline has long been a favourite playground 

of the Habsburg monarchy and other 

European aristocracy and, in addition to 

health and vitality holidays, sports and great 

beaches, the region is now gaining a new 

reputation as a gastronomic destination. 

Kvarner is an international driving destination, 

if arriving by car, with good road 

connections from surrounding countries. If 

flying, there are flights from a number of 

European cities direct to Rijeka airport in 

the heart of the region. 

KVARNER SCAMPI 

WITH STAR QUALITY 

Local specialities have become delicious 

ambassadors for this exciting new gourmet 

hotspot. One speciality in particular stands 

out: the legendary scampi. These are like 

langoustines and are truly among the very 

best in the Mediterranean. 

A stroll through the Rijeka fish market in 

the famous Art Deco market halls reveals a 

whole world of fresh fish and seafood. 

However, the delights of the sea are not the 

only staples that inspire the Kvarner 

region’s chefs. The pristine nature of the 

forested countryside also holds many 

riches. And let’s not forget some of the top 

offerings of the islands such as the lambs 

wandering freely, feeding on wild herbs on 

the island of Cres, or the world class olive 

oil and honey varieties. 

GUARANTEED QUALITY 

The reliable and easiest way of spotting vibrant 

culinary addresses is to look out for the 

local labels which are a stamp of guaranteed 

quality – they state Kvarner Gourmet and 

Kvarner Food and the exciting local wines, 

likewise, can be spotted by looking for the 

newly created Kvarner Wines label. 

INFO 

More information at: kvarner.hr 

And in the English-language Kvarner Magazine 

2022: brosure.kvarner.hr/en/KM_2022/mobile 

Also, for German speaking readers: 

kvarnermagazin.at 

mar–jun 2022 falstaff 127

travel / FLAVOUR DESTINATION NEW YORK CITY 

BACK IN THE 

Gourmets are spoiled for choice in the city that never sleeps. 

And why would you sleep when you can literally dine on dishes 

that hail from all corners of the globe? Here are some of the 

best places to take your appetite. 

WORDS KATHERINE KNOWLES WITH ANGELIKA AHRENS 

Photo: Getty Images/Alexander Spatari 


BIG APPLE 

The Empire State Building 

has soared above the 

Manhattan skyline for 

over 90 years. 


falstaff 

129


RESTAURANTS 

LE PAVILLON 

Daniel Boulud offers seafood-centric fine French 

cuisine in a dramatic setting. The staircase is positioned 

so that when you begin your ascent to the 

second-floor dining room, the walls crop out everything 

but the top of the Chrysler Building. Huge 

windows at the bar reveal Grand Central Terminal 

in all its Beaux-Arts glory. 

One Vanderbilt Ave, New York, NY 10017 

+1 212 662 1000, lepavillonnyc.com 

Above: The plush dining room of 

Jean-Georges restaurant. 

Below: Le Pavillon has a lush, 

green space and focuses on 

seafood (inset). 

VIA CAROTA 

Via Carota might be the perfect West Village 

restaurant. Chefs and co-owners 

Rita Sodi and Jody Williams focus on 

seasonal Italian food, including 

house-made pastas. Sit at the bar 

with a Prosecco and breaded, fried 

olives and watch the world go by. 

51 Grove St, New York, NY 10014 

+1 212 255 1962, viacarota.com 

SAGA 

On arrival, your host will escort you to 

the building’s 63rd-floor terrace, where you 

can admire a helicopter view of Manhattan. 

Reservations for the 56-seat tasting menu 

restaurant disappear within minutes of their release. 

You’ll also need to prepay the full menu price. 

70 Pine Street, New York, NY 10005 

+1 212 339 3963, saga-nyc.com 

CARBONE 

This great Italian-American restaurant takes you 

back to the mid-20th century. Elegant and unpretentious, 

with exceptionally well-prepared food 

that has earned one Michelin star. Even simple dishes 

like tortellini bolognese are highly acclaimed. 

Reservations available 30 days in advance. 

181 Thompson Street, New York, NY 10012 

carbonenewyork.com 

JEAN-GEORGES 

The jewel of Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s restaurant 

empire right at Central Park. This fine dining 

spot has earnt four New York Times stars and two 

from Michelin by blending French, American, and 

Photos: 2013 Francesco Tonelli, www.thomasschauer.com, Zack De Zon 


Asian influences. Vongerichten also offers gourmet 

hot dogs with fancy fixings like kimchi relish outside 

the Mark Hotel. 

1 Central Park West, New York, 10023 

+ 1 212 299 3900, jean-georges.com 

BOQUERIA 

This vibrant Spanish eatery is a great place to recover 

from shopping in Soho. Enjoy classic Spanish 

paella, tapas and 30-month-aged, hand-carved 

Jamon Iberico. Round off your meal with churros 

con chocolate. Also great for weekend brunch and 

afternoon Happy Hour. 

171 Spring Street, New York, NY 10012 

+1 212 343 4255, boqueriarestaurant.com 

JAPONICA 

New Yorkers who love Asian food head here for 

high standards, skilled chefs and great sushi as 

well as playful and artistically presented dishes. 

The place to go for Japanese cuisine, with an 

authentic interior. No reservations but if you have 

to wait, sit at the bar and watch the chefs at work. 

90 University Place, New York, NY 10003 

+1 212 243 7752, japonicanyc.com 

BALTHAZAR 

Keith McNally’s enduring Soho classic is ideal for 

steak frites and celebrity spotting. The warm, 

bistro-style dining room is always fizzing with energy, 

as waiters shuttle giant silver seafood towers to 

happy customers. The bar is one of the best solo 

dining locations in town – customers are offered a 

complimentary glass of bubbly. 


+1 212 965 1414, balthazarny.com 

MOMOFUKU KO 

David Chang’s two-Michelin star tasting menu 

restaurant shook up fine dining when it opened in 

2008. Make a reservation for the counter, where 

chefs cook and serve food that draws on personal 

memories and techniques to showcase the breadth 

of cuisine available in the melting pot that is NYC. 

8 Extra Place, New York, NY 10003 

+1 212 203 8095, ko.momofuku.com 

SHUKETTE 

Bustling, vibrant and stylishly casual: the food, the 

room and the vibe all promise a good time. Ayesha 

Nurdjaja’s team keep the grill fired up with a seasonal 

menu that highlights the best of the green 

market. Kick off a great night with freshly baked 

bread, creamy hummus and a cocktail. 

230 Ninth Avenue, New York, NY 10001 

+1 212 242 1803, shukettenyc.com 

SUSHI NAKAZAWA 

Sushi Nakazawa has been holding 

its own as one of New 

York’s top omakase spots for 

almost a decade, and the 

allure of fresh fish – prepared 

by Daisuke Nakazawa (of 

Jiro Dreams of Sushi fame) still holds strong. Stop 

in for a special lunch or dinner and sit at the counter 

for the best view. 

23 Commerce St, New York, NY 10014 

+1 212 924 2212, sushinakazawa.com 

CADENCE 

Vegan Soul Food. Everything from straight-up classics 

(fried okra served with jerk sauce, red potato 

salad, zingy with pickles and dill) to playful twists 

(oyster mushrooms standing in for fried chicken, a 

“crab” cake made from chickpeas and hearts of 

palm, perfect for dragging through a smoky chipotle 

aioli slaw). 

122 E 7th St, New York, NY 10009 

+1 833 328 4588, 

overthrowhospitality.com/cadence 

LE BERNARDIN 

Renowned chef Eric Ripert’s long-running success 

at his three-Michelin-starred Midtown seafood 

destination is built on the exacting standards 

of classical French cooking. Tasting 

menu options include a fourcourse 

menu split into three 

categories – Almost Raw, 

Barely Touched and Lightly 

Cooked. 

155 W 51st St, New 

York, NY 10019 

+1 212 554 1515, 

le-bernardin.com 

< 

Momofuku Ko serves 

a set tasting menu 

in sleek surrounds. 

Inset: Seasonal 

ingredients are the 

star of the show. 


falstaff 

131


< 

NATS ON BANK 

Seafood towers, sea urchin bucatini and baked 

Alaska are the standouts at this new neighbourhood 

classic with laid-back vibes and a party atmosphere. 

From the vivid birds adorning the shared 

platters to the fabulous bathroom décor, the whole 

experience is a thoughtfully curated good time. 

51 Bank Street, New York, NY 10014 

+1 347 897 5343, natsonbank.com 

KEENS 

For a traditional NYC steak house experience, you 

can’t go wrong with Keens. It has been serving rare 

red meat – including its famous mutton chop – for 

over 130 years. One of the world’s largest collections 

of churchwarden pipes adorns the walls – 

a memorial to its origins as a smoking club. 

72 West 36th Street, New York, NY 10018 

+1 212 947 3636, keens.com 

Inset and above: Japaneseinspired 

treats at Mochidoki. 

Below: Keens has a rich history. 

IL BUCO 

Order a board of salami. Drink wine from 

the 300-year-old cellar where Edgar Allen 

Poe used to hang out. Eat delectable risotto 

by candlelight in a restaurant that started 

life as an antiques shop. Whether romance is 

on your mind, or simply a great dinner, il Buco 

has you covered. 

47 Bond Street, New York, NY 10012 

+1 212 533 1932, ilbuco.com 

COSME 

Contemporary Mexican cuisine made with fresh 

Hudson Valley ingredients. Cosme has been ranked 

one of the world’s 50 best restaurants. Settle into 

the elegantly dark interior and enjoy uni tostada 

with avocado, bone marrow salsa and cucumber or 

duck carnitas, accompanied by fresh tortillas. 

35 E 21st St, New York, NY 10010 

cosmenyc.com 

CAFES & SNACKS 

JOES PIZZA 

Joe Pozzuoli founded his eponymous pizza joint in 

1975, and still supervises operations today, resulting 

in a classic slice… “no fancy pants pies, no pretentious 

nonsense…tried and true. The real deal.” 

7 Carmine Street, New York, NY 10014 

+1 212 366 1182, joespizzanyc.com 

KATZ’S DELI 

Step up to the counter and order a perfect slice of 

cheesecake and a coffee – or one of Katz’s famous 

pastrami sandwiches. Take in the scene; locals, 

tourists, someone trying to re-create When Harry 

Met Sally – just don’t lose your ticket or you’ll be in 

for scolding from one of the infamously straight-talking 

employees. 

205 E Houston St, New York, NY 10002 

+1 212 254 2246, katzsdelicatessen.com 

MOCHIDOKI 

Japanese inspired treats made by wrapping premium 

ice cream in a thin layer of chewy soft mochi 

rice cake. Get in early to nab the must-have 

< 

Photos: Andrew Bui RVD, Keens 



< 

‘milk and cereal’ flavour or try more than 20 

others. Ingredients include Italian hazelnuts and 

Swiss chocolate. Great as a snack or dessert while 

strolling through Soho. 


mochidoki.com 

COFFEE PROJECT 

Founded by passionate coffee roasters and real-life 

partners Chi Sum Ngai and Kaleena Teoh, Coffee 

Project takes its trade seriously, offering classes – 

and your choice of coffee from one of five espresso 

machines. The deconstructed latte is the perfect 

marriage of technique, drama and invention. 

239 E 5th Street, New York NY 10003 

+1 212 228 7888, coffeeprojectny.com 

JING FONG 

Jing Fong is a Chinatown classic; a palatial dim 

sum banqueting hall restaurant, where the trolleys 

keep coming thick and fast, and you’ll need to be 

assertive if you want a shrimp rice roll – and you do 

want a shrimp rice roll. Best visited at the weekend 

when the room is at its most bustling for brunch. 

20 Elizabeth Street, New York, NY 10013 

+1 212 964 5256, jingfongny.com 

VAN LEEUWEN 

Popular ice cream chain that offers plenty of 

milk-based and vegan options. Popular options 

include Honeycomb (full of caramel candy rather 

than honey) and Earl Grey Tea (from hand-harvested 

organic Chinese tea). The brand doesn’t use 

stabilisers – founder Ben Van Leeuwen reckons the 

secret of the creamy texture is lots of egg-yolk. 

48 1/2 East 7th St, New York, NY 10003 

+1 646 476 3865, vanleeuwenicecream.com 

GELATERIA GENTILE 

This gelato shop began back in 1880 using traditional 

family recipes from southern Italy. Rich, 

authentic flavours like ‘Apple from Campania’ and 

‘Pear from Basilicata’ plus possibly the best range 

of chocolate ice cream in New York. The menu also 

includes dairy free options, granita, pastries and 

coffee. 

43 8th Ave, NY 10014 

+1 917 261 7418, gelateriagentile.com 

BARS 

BEMELMANS BAR 

Snag a seat at the bar, surrounded by golden 

murals painted back in 1947 by Ludwig Bemelmans. 

Order a martini and let the piano music transport 

you to a bygone era of cocktail glamour at this 

Upper East Side classic. Expect to wait a while to 

get in if you go mid-to-late evening, but the people 

watching will make up for it. 

35 E 76th St, New York, NY 10021 

+1 212 570 7120, rosewoodhotels.com/en/the-carlyle-new-york/dining/bemelmans-bar 

THE RAINBOW ROOM, BAR 65 

For one of the best views in town, you can’t beat 

Bar 65 at the top of the Rock. Enter at 49th St, 

head up the escalator to the mezzanine level and 

up in an ear-popping elevator to sip Champagne in 

plush surroundings with the city spread out at your 

feet. Call ahead to book a table and snag the best 

view – minimum order applies. 

30 Rockefeller Plaza, 65th Floor, 

New York, NY 10112 

+1 212 632 5000, rockefellercenter.com/attractions/rainbow-room 

HI-COLLAR 

Newly-relocated to East 9th street, 

Hi-Collar is a Kissaten style Japanese 

café, serving coffee by day and spirits 

by night. Pick a bean, pick a roasting 

method, then pull a chair up to the 

counter to sip your beverage out of 

exquisitely designed cups and 

glasses. 

231 E 9 St, New York, NY 10003 

+1 212 777 7018, hicollar.square.site 

NOM WAH 

Serving dim sum since 1920, Nom Wah 

Tea Parlor makes everything fresh to order. 

Don’t miss the ‘original’ egg rolls, which are 

served crispy and steaming hot, and the house 

specialty, a pork bun that tastes like eating a warm 

hug. 

13 Doyers St, New York, NY 10013 

+1 212 962 6047, nomwah.com 

DANTE 

For over 100 years, Dante was a popular West Village 

café until a 2018 makeover transformed it into 

one of the world’s best bars. Order cocktails made 

from the prized vintage spirit collection or try the 

(much Instagram-ed) Garibaldi, a frothy, freshly 

squeezed orange delight. 

79-81 Macdougal St, New York, NY 10012 

+1 212 982 5275, dante-nyc.com 

THE CAMPBELL BAR 

Grand Central Station’s most iconic bar has had a 

glamorous refurbishment, making it the perfect 

Above: An Unlikely Negroni at Dante. 

Below: Bemelmans Bar is decorated 

with golden murals. 

< 

DOMINIQUE ANSEL BAKERY 

Home to chef Dominique Ansel’s legendary Cronut, 

although there are plenty of other inventive treats 

to explore; a marshmallow that unfurls in hot chocolate 

like a giant water lily, a chocolate chip cookie 

shaped into a shot glass and filled with milk, a 

kiwi cake that looks...like a kiwi. 


+1 212 219 2773, dominiqueanselny.com 

XI’AN FAMOUS FOODS 

New Yorkers flock to this casual spot specialising 

in Western Chinese cuisine. The top draws? Spicy 

hand torn noodles and lamb burgers, studded with 

aromatic cumin. Both are perfect, hearty lunches 

on a cold day. 

45 Bayard St, New York, NY 10013 

xianfoods.com 

Photos: Steve Freihon, Don Riddle Images 


KONZERT REIHE LUZERN #KKL LUZERN 

HÉLÈNE 

GRIMAUD 

FESTIVAL STRINGS LUCERNE DANIEL DODDS 

W. A. MOZART V. SILVESTROV 

KKL LUZERN WED 25 MAY 2022 7.30 PM 

Photo: F. Umiglia 

Photo: M. Hennek 

Athens was just the beginning 

The Festival Strings Lucerne, one of the leading chamber orchestras 

in Europe, are back on tour after all the restrictions of the past 

two years. In March 2020, when travelling was suddenly no longer 

possible, the orchestra sat down in front of microphones in Jean 

Nouvel’s impressive KKL Luzern and recorded Beethoven’s Violin 

Concerto featuring the phenomenal American-Japanese violinist 

Midori. Now finally both can be seen again live on tour. They recently 

toured Greece and appeared in the stunning Megaron Cultural 

Centre of Athens, and will soon be touring Germany. Back in Lucerne, 

a next highlight awaits the exceptional musicians, a night with 

Hélène Grimaud at KKL Luzern. 

On Tour In Germany 

27 APR Freiburg, Konzerthaus 29 APR Stuttgart, Liederhalle 

30 APR Regensburg, Audimax 1 MAY Essen, Philharmonie 

Midori Violin Daniel Dodds Artistic Leader 

L. van Beethoven Violin Concerto, Romances, Symphony No. 4


Essex Market is a treasure trove 

for gourmets. Inset: Just one of the 

delicious snacks for sale there. 

< 

place to catch up over a classy drink, whether 

or not you have a train to catch. Opulent details, an 

imposing mediaeval-style fireplace and exotic palm 

trees offer an escape from the busy heart of Midtown. 

15 Vanderbilt Ave, New York, NY 10017 

+1 212 297 1781, thecampbellnyc.com 

THE BAR ROOM AT TEMPLE COURT 

The bar of Tom Colicchio’s acclaimed Temple Court 

restaurant is located under a giant atrium in the 

heart of the Beekman Hotel. Pull up a green and 

gold leather chair and take in the downtown atmosphere. 

Perfect for on-point after work cocktails 

and hatching big deals. 

5 Beekman Street, New York, NY 10038 

+1 212 658 18483 

THE DUPLEX 

Some nights you want to sip a glass of wine in a 

rarefied atmosphere. Others, you want a cold vodka 

in a hot room, with a pianist belting out Rainbow 

Connection and 20 of your new best friends singing 

along with the (crazy talented) bar staff. That’s 

when you head to the city’s longest running cabaret 

and piano bar and inclusive haven. 

61 Christopher St, New York, NY 10014 

+1 212 255 5438, theduplex.com/site 

SHOPS & MARKETS 

ZABARS 

An 80-year-old institution that Upper Westsiders 

rely on for their smoked fish and bagels – and so 

much more. This supermarket has counters groaning 

with breads and olives, a cheese department 

with the distinction of being the first importers of 

Brie to NYC in the 1960s (!) and a coffee shop 

tucked away upstairs. 

2245 Broadway, New York, 

NY 10024 

+1 212 787 2000, zabars.com 

MURRAY’S CHEESE 

New York’s most famous cheese shop is staffed 

by experts who make, sell and serve exceptional 

cheese – and all the olives, cornichons and salamis 

you could want for a truly gourmet picnic. 

Browse around the flagship store on Bleeker, then 

step up to the counter and ask the red-jacketed 

staff for a recommendation and get ready to taste. 

254 Bleeker Street, New York, NY 10014 

+1 212 243 3289, murrayscheese.com/greenwich-village 

KALUSTYANS 

A delicious bazaar packed with spices, dried herbs, 

fruits, candied peels, teas, nuts, pulses, hot sauces 

and condiments from around the globe. Egyptian 

peppercorns? They’ve got them. Madagascan 

vanilla? Of course. Browse barrels of dried fruits, 

aisles of lentils, cookware and cocktail syrups in a 

state of sensory overload – and make sure you 

don’t leave without a packet or two of house-made 

spice mixes. 

123 Lexington Ave, New York, NY 10016 

+1 212 685 3451, kalustyans.com 

KORIN 

If you want to buy a quality kitchen knife, Korin is 

the place. It supplies Japanese restaurants with 

tableware and appliances, but there are plenty 

more beautiful things to interest the home cook, 

from the perfect tea cup and sushi platters to a nifty 

ramen noodle machine. 

57 Warren Street, New York, NY 10007 

+1 212 587 7021, korin.com 

RUSS AND 

DAUGHTERS 

New Yorkers have 

been buying bagels 

and lox from Russ 

and Daughters for over 

100 years. The shop specialises 

in smoked fish and caviar, 

(featured in the documentary Sturgeon Queens), 

though they also have a sideline in desirable 

merchandise – in collaboration with Jake Gyllenhaal, 

no less. There’s a café close to the shop on 

Orchard Street where you can eat your white fish 

in comfort. 

179 East Houston Street, New York, NY 10002 

+1 212 475 4880, russanddaughters.com 

CHELSEA MARKET 

While busy at peak times, this market is still a serious 

treasure trove of culinary delights, housing a 

myriad of shops offering everything from lobster 

rolls to chocolate Statue of Liberty models, as well 

as restaurants, a wine bar and kitchen supply 

store. Our tips? Avoid the lunch rush and save 

room for an Adobada taco from Los Tacos No. 1. 

75 9th Ave, New York, NY 10011 

chelseamarket.com 

ESSEX MARKET 

A 100-year-old hub for everything gourmet from 

freshly roasted coffee to tropical fruits, this newly 

expanded market is the perfect place to wander, 

sip and nibble a morning away. Pick up a Sicilian 

fried rice ball at Arancini Bros, a hunk of cheese 

from family-run Valley Shepherd Creamery or a 

more-ish cheeseburger empanada from Dominican 

Cravings. 

88 Essex Street, New York, NY 10002 

essexmarket.nyc < 

Photos: Essex Market 


ALPIN GARDEN 

A NEW GOLD GEM 

IN THE DOLOMITES 

Awaken your senses and indulge your body 

and soul at the Alpin Garden Luxury Maison & Spa *****. 

ADVERTORIAL Photos: © Andreas Senoner Photography / www.andreas-senoner.com; provided 

In sunny Val Gardena in the Italian 

Dolomites, you find Alpin Garden, a 

hotel with an ancient heart and a 

glamorous outlook. The history of 

Alpin Garden is intertwined with that of 

Val Gardena: Markus Hofer, owner of the 

hotel, was born right here. At the age of 25, 

he took over the reins of Alpin Garden, and 

transformed the hotel with his refined and 

luxurious touch into a unique venue that 

retains its traditional roots. 

Time simply evaporates in the beautiful 

ART SPA featuring saunas, whirlpools and 

Turkish baths as well as pools and spacious 

relaxation areas and treatment rooms. The 

ski slopes are accessible by shuttle bus and 

the centre of Ortisei village is within walking 

distance, but if you truly feel like relaxing, 

there’s no need to leave the premises. Sunbathing 

on the panoramic poolside overlooking 

the Dolomites is a soothing pleasure. 

Days of relaxation and unwinding are followed 

by evenings of more delights: the dinner, 

made with premium ingredients and 

prepared to the highest standards of contemporary 

cuisine, is served in our glazed dining 

room, overlooking the Sella massif. Leave 

room for dessert: the Alpin Garden pâtisserie 

prepares fresh treats every day which will 

satisfy even the most demanding palates. 

After dinner, Alpin Garden’s Artist Lounge 

is perfect for a nightcap with soft furnishings 

and subdued lighting among the 

many works of art Markus chooses and 

constantly refreshes with great taste. 

Then, under a starry sky, night begins at 

Alpin Garden: sink into exquisite rest and 

deep sleep in one of the 33 luxuriously 

appointed rooms, thoughtfully furnished in 

Arolla pine with metallic highlights and 

wide open views of the mountains. Alpin 

Garden holds the real secret of an unforgettable 

stay: it is a place where guests are 

treated like royalty, surrounded by a 

warmth that tastes like home. 

INFO 

J. Skasa Str. 68, 39046 St. Ulrich Gröden 

T +39 0471 796021 

alpingarden.com 

mar–jun 2022 falstaff 137

travel / WINE ROUTES: BETWEEN FLORENCE & SIENA 

WHAT LIES BETWEEN: 

FLORENCE, 

SIENA & CHIANTI 

CLASSICO 

Photo: Alfio Garozzo/Mazzei 


Florence and Siena are Tuscany’s most famous cities. Millions of 

visitors flock there to see priceless Renaissance art. But between 

these two poles lies Italy’s most quintessential wine region: Chianti. 

We urge you to discover what lies beyond the tourist trail between 

those cities. Savour food, wine and la dolce vita. 

WORDS OTHMAR KIEM 

Some of the buildings 

of the ancient Castello 

di Fonterutoli and its 

hamlet bathed in evening 

light amidst the Chianti 

countryside. 


falstaff 

139


A table laid for dinner at the 

Caffè dell’Oro near the Ponte 

Vecchio in Florence. 

The Renaissance treasures of 

Florence have been a tourist 

magnet for centuries. The 

Uffizi, Palazzo Pitti, the 

Duomo, Ponte Vecchio and 

Michelangelo’s David have captured 

thousands with their beauty. For many 

tourists, a visit to Florence is their first 

encounter with Tuscan wine and food. 

Notwithstanding the number of visitors, 

especially in the historic centre, Florence 

has a lively restaurant scene beyond welltrodden 

paths. Next to the long-established 

trattorie, local inns serving simple, hearty 

fare at moderate prices, there are ambitious, 

young talents. More recently, a number 

of cocktail bars have sprung up, like Gucci 

Giardino on the centrally located Piazza 

della Signoria, Manifattura in which only 

Italian-grown produce is used, Locale 

inside Palazzo Concini with its beautiful 

cellars and restaurant and finally the 

Rasputin Secret Bar. All are worth visiting 

– before and after dinner. 

Compared to Florence, Siena is smaller 

and more reserved, less funky. No less 

blessed with cultural artefacts, what is on 

offer here is a little more hidden. The 

Duomo with its marble layers and the 

museum complex of Santa Maria della 

Scala leave a lasting impression. However, 

it is between the two towns that a fascinating 

landscape unfolds: the zone of Chianti 

Classico. The gallo nero, or black cockerel, 

is its emblem, visible on every bottle of Chianti 

Classico. The 70 kilometres/43 miles 

that separate the cities offer picturesque 

villages and towns, cypress-lined avenues 

and ancient Tuscan architecture. You will 

find world-famous wine estates and rustic 

Dinner in the setting sun in the 

old courtyard of Castello di 

Spaltenna in Gaiole in Chianti. 

Photos: Lungarno Collection, Castello di Gaiole/BrandFactory, Stefano Scatà, Osteria Tonne a Cona 


DO NOT EXPECT 

CHIANTI TO BE A 

SEA OF VINES. THE 

MOST CHARACTERISTIC 

ELEMENTS ARE OAK 

FORESTS AND OLIVE 

GROVES. 

inns whose homely fare will beguile you. 

But do not expect Chianti to be a sea of 

vines. The most characteristic elements of 

the landscape are oak forests interspersed 

with thousands of olive trees. Vineyards 

take up a mere 15 percent of the area. The 

main grape variety is Sangiovese and in 

order to be labelled Chianti Classico, a 

wine must be made from at least 80 percent 

Sangiovese, but many are now made 

exclusively from this arch-Tuscan variety. 

The dreamy hills are also home to so-called 

Supertuscans – wines often based on 

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. 

TOURING WINE COUNTRY 

Our wine tour starts in Florence. 

The first stop is San Casciano 

Val di Pesa, the northernmost 

commune of the Chianti 

Inset: A dish of homemade 

pici with fennel and Tuscan 

pork ragú. Below: The main 

square of Borgo San Felice 

in Castelnuovo Berardenga. 

Classico zone. The Corsinis are an old 

aristocratic family. Duccio Corsini not only 

makes wine in the impressive Villa le Corti 

but also the finest olive oil. After a short 

detour through Antinori’s vineyards, past 

their Badia a Passignano estate, we drive on 

a stretch of unsurfaced road towards 

Panzano. This commune is home to a 

whole series of famous wine estates: 

Fontodi, La Massa, Castello dei Rampolla 

as well as Dario Cecchini who must be 

Italy’s most famous butcher. Both his shop 

and his restaurant Officina della Bistecca 

are heaven for carnivores. 

Our tour continues via the commune of 

Castellina and the Fonterutoli estate to 

Siena. You simply have to see the main 

square, Piazza del Campo – and stop for an 

espresso. Once refreshed, we continue on 

the SP408 and SP62 roads through the 

vineyards of southern Chianti towards 

Castelnuovo Berardenga on the southeastern 

edge of the zone. Again there are 

wine estates that are worth a stop. At 

< 


falstaff 

141


Inset: a light antipasto served 

at Osteria Torre a Cona 

< 

Castelnuovo we head back north, via 

Borgo San Felice. The imposing Castello di 

Brolio becomes visible from afar. Its wine 

shop is highly recommended, as is its 

osteria. Our jaunt continues to Gaiole, one 

of the quieter communes of Chianti. 

Macelleria Chini, a butcher’s shop, is 

famous for its salame and cured meats. 

The winding road leads onto Badia a 

Coltibuono, one of the region’s highest 

vantage points. The SR429 then goes to 

Radda, past San Donato in Perano. The 

Frescobaldis run an estate here and their 

trattoria deserves a longer stop. The 

Volpaia estate, high above the valley and 

close to Radda, offers breath-taking views 

as well as food and wine. We continue via 

Lucarelli to San Donato in Poggio. After 

visiting Castello di Monsanto in Barberino 

we hit the fast autostrada back to Florence. 

STAYING 

DIMORA PALANCA 

Stylish accommodation in a tastefully renovated 

villa. At the Mimesi restaurant, chef Giovanni Cerroni 

reinterprets Tuscan classics with aplomb. 

Via della Scala 72, I-50123 Florence 

dimorapalanca.com; mimesirestaurant.com 

PORTRAIT FIRENZE 

Part of the Lungarno-Collection of the Ferragamo 

Group, this is a central and upscale address. 

Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli 4, I-50123 Florence 

lungarnocollection.com 

BORGO DEL CABREO 

A revitalised hamlet situated above Greve with 

tastefully furnished rooms. Wonderful. 

Via Monte Fioralle Case Spase 9, I-50022 Greve in 

Chianti. borgodelcabreo.it 

TORRE A CONA 

A magnificent 17th century estate 

between Florence and the Chianti 

Classico zone, a winery, hotel and 

restaurant – worth the detour. 

Via Torre a Cona 49, I-50067 Rignano 

sull’Arno, torreacona.com 

BORGO SAN FELICE 

A chic hotel within medieaval walls. 

Località San Felice, I-53019 Castelnuovo 

Berardenga, borgosanfelice.it 

FONTE DE’ MEDICI 

Tasteful hospitality in the Antinori style. Wines like 

Tignanello and Solaia grow just a little distance 

away. 

Via Santa Maria a Macerata 31, I-50026 Montefiridolfi, 

fontedemedici.com 

CASTELLO DI SPALTENNA 

An exclusive old castello. Its restaurant, Il Pievano, 

has a Michelin star. Via Spaltenna 13, I-53013 Gaiole 

in Chianti, spaltenna.it 

CERTOSA DI MAGGIANO 

Gorgeous rooms just a few minutes from Siena’s 

centre. Small, austere abbey cells have been 

converted into luxurious rooms. Dinner is served in 

the old cloister. Strada di Certosa 82/86, I-53100 

Siena, lacertosadimaggiano.com 

DINING 

ENOTECA PINCHIORRI 

Food lovers have made pilgrimages here for years. 

Stupendous wine menu. Via Ghibellina 87, I-50122 

Florence, enotecapinchiorri.it 

MARINA DI SANTO SPIRITO 

A fish restaurant off the beaten track in the Santo 

Spirito quarter. Look out for evening events and 

performances. 

Via Maffia 1C, 50125 Florence 

marinadisantospirito.it 

LA LEGGENDA DEI FRATI 

Fine dining in the former stables of Villa Bardini. 

The terrace affords gorgeous views across Florence. 

Costa S. Giorgio 6/a, I-50125 Florence 

laleggendadeifrati.it 

ANTICO RISTORO DI CAMBI 

Traditional trattoria a little way from the centre. 

The Tuscan classics served are of exquisite quality. 

Via Sant’Onofrio 1R, I-50124 Florence 

anticoristorodicambi.it 

RISTORANTE ARNOLFO 

Gaetano Trovato’s cooking is amongst the best in 

Italy. Clear lines and harmonious calibration are his 

hallmarks. Rooms available. Via XX Settembre 50, 

I-53034 Colle Val d’Elsa, arnolfo.com 

OSTERIA DI PASSIGNANO 

Marcello Crini is a masterful host. Dining here is 

always a pleasure. Via Passignano 33, I-50028 

Badia a Passignano, Tavarnelle Val di Pesa 

osteriadipassignano.com/en 

OFFICINA DELLA BISTECCA/DARIO CECCHINI 

A temple for carnivores and lovers of steak. 

Via XX Luglio 11, I-50022 Panzano in Chianti 

dariocecchini.com 

RISTORANTE ALBERGACCIO 

Fine dining in an old farmstead. Owner Francesco 

Cacciatori is a wine freak. Via Fiorentina 63, I-53011 

Castellina in Chianti, ristorantealbergaccio.com 

A superior suite at Castello di 

Spaltenna in Gaiole. 

OSTERIA LE PANZANELLE 

Simple, hearty fare and a great wine list. Many 

famous winemakers meet here. Località Lucarelli 

29, I-53017 Radda in Chianti, lepanzanelle.it 

RISTORO DI LAMOLE 

Offers great views of the surrounding wine estates, 

plus really good cooking and a great wine list. 

Via Lamole 6, Frazione, I-50022 Lamole 

ristorodilamole.it 

OSTERIA LE LOGGE 

Just steps from the central Piazza il Campo, this 

osteria is a gastronomic institution in Siena. Rustic 

dishes, a wonderful wine selection, including wines 

by Gianni Brunello who founded this osteria. 

Via del Porrione 33, I-53100 Siena 

osterialelogge.it 

< 

Photos: Osteria Torre a Cona, Tommy Picone/Castelo Spaltenna 


A Journal on the City’s People, Places and Culture ISSUE 2 2022 www.vienna.info 

Order now 

for free 

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Celebrate, Experience, Boafo, Adia, Heidi, Monokini, Laura, 

Back to the Future, Stanislaus, Trendsters and Traders, 

Farm to Table, All great things start in cities, Life, Vienna

travel / BEACHES 

DISCOVER YOUR PERFECT 

BEACH 

The magic of watching waves crash on the shore and feeling the sand 

between your toes is universal. But every beach has its own individual identity 

so whether you’re seeking a romantic retreat, R&R with the kids or reef fish 

and exotic wildlife, here are our top picks from Rarotonga to Rio. 

WORDS CATHERINE WALBRIDGE 


Photo: Baros Maldives 

Green jungle and turquoise 

sea flank a pristine whitesand 

beach at the Baros 

resort in the Maldives. 


falstaff 

145


Enjoy some R&R on your 

very own secluded sandbank 

in the Maldives, surrounded 

by the Indian Ocean. 

BEST FOR ROMANCE & 

RELAXATION 

RAROTONGA 

This tropical destination in the South 

Pacific is perfect for those seeking laidback 

romance or just a dose of R&R. 

Check out all the golden-sand beaches by 

driving around the volcanic 

island in just 45 minutes 

– no traffic lights or 

skyscrapers here. 

It’s hard to pick a 

favourite, but if 

pushed, Muri 

Beach on the 

southeast coast, 

where you can 

wallow in the 

unspoilt lagoon, 

would get our vote. 

TABLETALK 

Tamarind House is set in a restored 

colonial property near Avarua town. Run 

by restaurant veteran Sue Carruthers 

Brown of Flame Tree restaurant fame. 

Enjoy fresh Pacific cuisine – think oysters, 

lamb or fish curry – as you look 

out over palm-shaded lawns to 

the ocean. 

Keen for some quality couple time? Head 

for the adults-only Little Polynesian Resort 

nearby with its mesmerising lagoon views 

and spun-gold sands. 

MALDIVES 

With nearly 1,200 islands perched 

in the Indian Ocean, each beach 

is more beautiful than the last. 

Pearlescent sands? Check. 

Swaying palm trees? Check. 

Turquoise waters? Check. 

This is the place to come 

for a serious dose of 

romantic luxe, especially if 

you’re partial to overwater 

bungalows. Baros Resort is 

the place for beach lovers who 

are serious about capturing Cupid. They’ll 

even set up a gourmet picnic on your very 

own sandbank, should the novelty of 

dining with your beloved on the rest of the 

island’s sun-kissed sands wear off. 

TURKS AND CAICOS 

Seclusion seekers rejoice – it’s easy enough 

to find a sugar-sanded beach to call your 

own on this archipelago even during peak 

season. Head to Providenciales, or Provo as 

it’s known, and straight for the world-famous 

Grace Bay Beach. Wellness and 

pampering on your agenda too? COMO 

Parrot Cay is a private resort island, where 

you can indulge in yoga, Pilates and 

Ayurvedic therapies to your heart’s content 

at its Shambhala Spa. 

Photos: felixhug/eyesonasia.net/Baros maldives, Shutterstock 

146 falstaff 


BEST FOR CITY SLICKERS 

SYDNEY 

Just seven kilometres from Sydney’s centre, 

Bondi Beach has become synonymous with 

Australia’s laidback beach lifestyle. Beloved 

by locals as well as tourists, the crescentshaped 

beach is lined with hip cafés, bars 

and restaurants. Always wanted to ride the 

waves? This place has surf schools galore 

and great breaks at either end. Just watch 

out for the Backpackers’ Express rip and 

keep inside the shark net. Less adventurous 

souls can splash in the 100-year-old 

saltwater Bondi Baths right on the shoreline. 

When it gets too crowded, head south 

to Bronte Beach. 

Waves crashing over the 

famous century-old Bondi 

Baths in Sydney, Australia. 

HONG KONG 

Craving sand and a big city vibe? Put this 

gleaming Asian metropolis on your 

bucket-list. The best part is you 

don’t even have to leave 

Hong Kong Island. Take 

the twisty road over to 

TABLETALK 

Shek O or nearer still, 

Repulse Bay on the 

Most gourmets gather on the north 

island’s south side. Its side of the island, but if you’re keen to 

long sandy beach 

linger, popular Asian restaurant Spices 

with its tropical garden setting is perfect 

feels light years away 

for cocktails and a bite to eat. Caffeine 

from the bustling 

addicts should make a beeline for 

streets of the CBD but Neighbourhood Coffee on, where 

else, Beach Road. 

you can zip back there 

in less than half an hour. 

Culture vultures should 

check out Tin Hau Temple on 

the beach’s far corner, one of the oldest 

structures in the city. 

RIO DE JANEIRO 

Pack light for hitting arguably the world’s 

most famous beach, Copacabana. A tiny 

bikini and sunglasses should suffice. The 

beach itself though is huge. Beautiful 

people-watching here is entertainment 

enough but the scenery also stacks up with 

jungle-clad mountains rising from the sea. 

To really soak up the non-stop party 

atmosphere, hole up at the Belmond 

Copacabana Palace. This landmark hotel 

has cosseted the rich and famous since 

1923. Money no object? Snaffle a penthouse 

suite with a private terrace. 

< 

Postcard-perfect 

Copacabana Beach has long 

been a playground for the 

rich and famous. 


falstaff 

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BEST FOR FAMILY FUN 

PARADISE ISLAND, BAHAMAS 

Modelled on the lost city of Atlantis, this 

mega-resort is perfect for water babies of 

all ages. It has three beautiful beaches, but 

the real attraction is the man-made aquatic 

playground inland; a 141-acre water park 

complete with high-speed slides, a milelong 

river ride and 11 swimming pools. 

Check out every marine species imaginable: 

swim with dolphins, walk with sharks 

(protective helmets provided) or try out 

“Snuba” diving with tropical fish. In the 

unlikely event that the kids still aren’t tired, 

plonk them in front of the free movies at 

Atlantis Theatre. 

SAN DIEGO 

Described as a child-friendly, 70-mile 

sandbox, this city’s coastline is ideal for 

kids and kids at heart. La Jolla Shores can 

be enjoyed by the whole family, offering a 

long sandy beach with small waves that 

allow the young ones to paddle while the 

older ones learn how to surf or bodyboard 

and explore the nearby La Jolla Sea Caves. 

If the teenagers would rather be seen than 

see the sights, drop them at Pacific or 

Mission Beach, two boardwalk-connected 

hangouts. The latter has the bonus of 

Belmont Park, with its Giant Dipper 

rollercoaster, amusement arcade, zipline 

and Go Karts. 

Families can race each 

other on the water slides at 

Paradise Island. 

Some of Koh Samui’s most 

beautiful and quiet beaches 

are on the island’s north side. 

KOH SAMUI 

It’s hard to find a bad beach on this Gulf of 

Thailand island but if you’re travelling en 

famille our pick would be the quieter ones 

on the north shore. And there’s no better 

place to recharge than on Maenam 

Beach, where you won’t be 

fighting off hawkers or other 

tourists to snag a lounger. 

TABLETALK 

There, the Santiburi Koh 

Cooking classes aren’t just for kids. 

Samui achieves the near 

Brush up on your kitchen skills at the 

impossible by combining Santiburi so you can enjoy your favourite 

adult tranquillity with 

Thai dishes at home. Forget about being 

child-friendly activities. 

stuck in the kitchen, here you’ll cook 

Which means you get to 

outside under the coconut palms, 

admittedly with a distracting 

laze in the spa or 50 metre 

view of the sea. 

pool while the little ones 

unleash their inner MasterChef. 


BEST FOR WILDLIFE LOVERS 

COSTA RICA 

Manuel Antonio National Park has some 

of the most beautiful beaches in this 

Central American country, with excellent 

coral-reef snorkelling. But the real treat for 

animal aficionados lies on land. The lush 

rain forest lining the coast is home to an 

extraordinary collection of wildlife – three 

fingered sloths, iguanas and squirrel 

monkeys for starters. You’ll be an expert 

after an official guided tour along easy 

access trails. Then make for Arenas Del 

Mar Beach & Rainforest Resort. Why? It’s 

the only luxury hotel in the area 

that’s genuinely on the beach. 

NEW ZEALAND 

Pristine beaches abound in New Zealand 

and Kiwis like to joke that unlike Australia, 

you won’t have to worry about the wildlife 

finishing you off. Seabird seekers should 

make straight for Cape Kidnappers in 

Hawkes Bay, home to the world’s largest 

mainland gannet colony. Travel in a red 

tractor along Clifton Beach (or 4x4 across 

farmland) and soak up the full beauty of 

the majestic, rugged coastline. Golf fans 

need to tee off afterwards at the stunning 

Cape Kidnappers Golf Course, where 

cliff-edge fairways are perched 

140 metres above the ocean. 

SOUTH AFRICA 

What makes Boulders Beach in Cape 

Town stand out from the crowd? African 

Penguins. A whole colony of them in 

fact. It’s the only place in the world 

where you can get up close and personal 

with these waddling crowd-pleasers. 

But not too close…three boardwalks for 

visitors ensure the endangered birds and 

their chicks are protected. Boulders is 

part of the Table Mountain National 

Park Marine Protected Area so it’s a 

super family-friendly beach to take a 

dip but canoes and kayaks are off the 

activity menu. 

< 

TABLETALK 

Treat yourself to a five-course tasting 

menu at The Farm at Cape Kidnappers 

(book ahead if you’re not lucky enough to 

be staying at the luxury retreat). The only 

risk to your appetite are the awe-inspiring 

views. Their special sunrise breakfast 

looking down on Black Reef is a 

must-do for early birds. Gannets 

excluded. 

Photos: Atlantis Paradise Island, Max Bottinger/unsplash, Getty Images/Mlenny 

Boulders Beach in Cape 

Town is home to a delightful 

colony of African Penguins. 


falstaff 

149


BEST UNIQUE BEACHES 

DUNE DU PILAT 

Europe’s tallest sand dune in southwestern 

France is truly vast. Take the steps or 

clamber up the soft sand 107 metres to the 

top where you’ll be rewarded with amazing 

views of the Atlantic and the forest behind. 

How you get down is up to you…but 

running, rolling or surfing on a bodyboard 

are popular options. Arcachon Bay has 

plenty of beaches worth exploring but it’s 

the oyster beds that are renowned. Sample 

as many oysters as you can stomach from 

the wooden huts manned by farmers dotted 

around the Bay, then drive an hour to 

Bordeaux, for a fine wine to wash them 

down. 

The sun shines through the 

open crater of the Instagramfavourite 

Playa del Amor 

beach. 

PLAYA DEL AMOR, 

MARIETA ISLANDS 

This Mexican wonder in the Bay of 

Banderas, a.k.a. the “hidden beach”, has 

now become so famous that visitor 

numbers have been capped. Those lucky 

enough to nab a spot need to swim along a 

water tunnel to reach the golden sands and 

turquoise water, concealed inside an open 

crater. Instagram photos aside, the surrounding 

marine reserve is possibly even 

more impressive with its underwater 

mountain range teeming with sea 

turtles, dolphins and in winter, 

visiting humpback whales. A 

must for scuba divers. 

GIANT’S CAUSEWAY 

Northern Ireland’s only UNESCO World 

Heritage Site is a collection of some 40,000 

basalt columns descending into the sea. 

They were created about six million years 

ago by volcanic activity…or as local lore 

has it, by the mythical Irish giant Finn 

McCool. Pick from one of several coastal 

walks to view them properly 

and grab an obligatory 

selfie or two on the 

intriguingly 

TABLETALK 

Harry’s Shack in Portstewart serves 

up some of the freshest seafood – 

honest fare like fish & chips and oysters 

– at modest prices. The million-dollar 

views are free. If you fancy sinking 

a pint, the award-winning Walled 

City Brewery gastropub in Derry 

serves up craft beer 

and cocktails. 

named giant’s 

boot or 

wishing 

chair. 

< 

Photo: Getty Images/ferrantraite 

150 

falstaff 


travel / MY BEST TRIP INTERVIEW 

MY BEST 

TRIP: 

The French chef Hélène Darroze is one of the few 

women to be awarded three Michelin stars. 

INTERVIEW ANNE KREBIEHL MW 

FALSTAFF What is your earliest travel memory? 

HÉLÈNE DARROZE Our little family trips to 

San Sebastián to eat tapas. 

Who is your favourite travel companion? 

I have always loved to travel on my own. 

I did the most fabulous travels on my own. 

But since I am a Mum, I love travelling 

with my daughters. 

HÉLÈNE DARROZE 

Hélène Darroze heads four kitchens and 

they are no ordinary establishments. Her 

eponymous restaurant at The Connaught in 

London has three Michelin stars and Marsan 

par Hélène Darroze in Paris has two. 

Jòia is also in the French capital while a 

fourth restaurant at Villa La Coste in Provence 

opened in 2021. Darroze is a fourthgeneration 

chef who grew up in her family’s 

restaurant. After earning a business degree, 

she trained with Alain Ducasse and opened 

her first restaurant in Paris in 1999, earning 

her first star in 2001. She divides her time 

between London and Paris. 

Where will you always return to? 

New York 

I never leave for a trip without: 

A good pair of jeans and sneakers. 

Inset: Tapas in San 

Sebastián. Below: A sea 

of cherry blossoms in front 

of Japan’s Mount Fuji. 

My in-flight essentials: 

A good book, sweatpants and sweatshirt, my laptop. 

Do you plan every detail of your trip or just let things flow? 

Depends on the destination. But it is generally a mix of the two. 

Regarding places to eat, I prefer planning. 

What criteria makes you book a hotel, B&B or holiday home? 

It has to be comfortable and have a personality. 

New York City is a favourite destination. 

What is your favourite means of travel? 

Trains, as you can really enjoy the landscape. 

Your most memorable destination? 

Japan 

Your favourite travel book? 

The Louis Vuitton city guides. 

Sneakers are 

a must-have 

along with Louis 

Vuitton guides. 

Photos: Nicolas Buisson, Shutterstock, Artem Bondarchuk/unsplash, Getty Images/Eloi Omella, Louis Vuitton 


ANGELIKA ROSAM 

FRESH, 

ELEGANT, 

STYLISH 

KITCHEN HERB 

GARDEN 

Grow your own herbs, 

regardless of the weather, season 

or lack of green thumb with this 

automated smart garden. The 

kits contain packs of seeds, while 

the ingenious planter provides 

the light, water and nutrients for 

them to grow quickly into 

healthy herbs and plants all year 

round. 

connectionsathome.co.uk 

MATERIAL MIX 

The combination of marble, mirrors and a golden frame 

makes this bar cart the star of happy hour. 

oliverbonas.com 

LOVINGLY PAINTED 

These cheerful dessert plates are 

painted in Senegal using the 

technique of underglaze painting. 

A delicate job that requires 

concentration. The words and 

drawings are drawn in ink on 

the transparent glass plate – with 

the most beautiful messages. 

Collect a set! 

csao.fr 

IN GOOD SHAPE 

The matte exterior and shiny 

metallic interior ensures these 

martini glasses are a decorative 

eye-catcher. 

stoelzle-lausitz.com 

Photos: Rafaela Pröll, provided 


eldorado 

LIFESTYLE 

DESIGN À LA AUSTRIA 

How cool to create a cup for one of Vienna's best coffee roasters. 

Designer Klemens Schillinger creatively realised this order for 

Naber. The ceramic product is something to behold. 

klemensschillinger.com 

CLASSY 

If Tom Dixon puts his name to 

it...the mouth-blown decanter 

comes in very fashionable 

packaging. Made in Poland and 

decorated with hand-painted 

copper details, the piece definitely 

has a sculptural hue. Dixon 

has immortalised himself with 

an etched logo. 

tomdixon.net 

Our columnist ANGELIKA ROSAM 

is publisher and co-owner of Falstaff 

Publishing. With her inimitable flair for 

the beautiful things in life, she presents 

her favourite picks for house and home. 

HOT BOX 

For hot meals, there's nothing 

better than the ingenious new 

Uzme lunch box. In the base is a 

heating pad over which you pour 

water and then place the food in 

the container above. After five 

minutes, the heating pad has 

worked its magic and the food 

is heated with steam. 

myuzme.com 

The Falstaff world has 

many facets including 

home accessories. We 

have gathered some 

of our favourites for 

you in this issue. Dive 

in and be inspired for 

your dinner parties, 

table settings and 

gastronomic highlights 

at home. 

ELEGANT MATERIAL 

The minimalist coffee pot by architect Arne Jacobsen was one of 

the first designs of the Cylinda-line series in 1967. This modern, 

groundbreaking design quickly made the coffee pot a design icon. 

stelton.com 


falstaff 

155

lifestyle / KITCHEN KNIVES 

FINELY 

FORGED 

No self-respecting cook would work without a good knife 

– and buying the right one is often a rite of passage for 

serious home cooks. Falstaff takes an incisive look into the 

world of steel blades. 

WORDS GABRIEL STONE 

Photo: Getty Images/CasarsaGuru 


How knives are 

forged, and from 

what kind of steel, 

makes all the 

difference. 


falstaff 

157


Many manufacturers 

offer matching sets of 

the most popular and 

useful kitchen knives. 

TYPES OF 

KNIFE: A BRIEF 

GUIDE 

CHEF’S KNIFE – a large, general purpose 

knife for chopping, dicing and mincing. Its 

Japanese counterpart is the santoku or gyuto. 

BONING KNIFE – a thin, pointed blade designed 

to cut close around bones and sinew. 

It does the same job as a Japanese honesuki. 

That’s not a knife,” goes the 

immortal Crocodile Dundee 

scene. You don’t have to be a 

New York mugger to have been 

on the receiving end of this 

pointed quote. As anyone who has ever 

struggled to slice an onion with a hopelessly 

blunt utensil knows, a bad knife is a 

cook’s nightmare. But what makes a good 

knife? Humans have pondered this 

question for centuries. Craftspeople from 

Germany to Japan have built upon 

generations of sword-making expertise, 

entire lives dedicated to ensuring their steel 

serves its user impeccably, whether on the 

battlefield, during hunting or, more likely 

today, in the kitchen. 

JUST LIKE THE PROS 

Until recently, the finest, most expensive 

knives tended to be the preserve of profes- 

sional chefs. But in 2020, when the world’s 

foodies suddenly found their favourite 

restaurants closed and extra time on their 

hands, many felt the urge to upgrade their 

tools. That is certainly the experience of 

Vickie Shannon, marketing director of 

Gastronomy Plus, which includes both the 

online shop kitchenknives.co.uk and 

physical London base The Sharpening 

Shed. “In lockdown the more expensive 

knives really surged for us,” she reports. 

“Before that we were mostly selling them 

to professionals.” 

It may boost the ego to wield the same 

kitchen knife as your favourite chef, but it 

is unlikely to enhance your cooking if you 

do not know how to use or care for it 

properly. “Chefs start every shift by 

sharpening their knives,” Shannon says. 

They are also unlikely to throw them in the 

dishwasher or keep them clattering around 

PARING KNIFE – a small, light blade for 

precise jobs such as peeling fruit, removing 

prawn veins, deseeding chillies or hulling 

strawberries. Also known as a petty knife. 

FILLETING KNIFE – a long, flexible blade 

perfect for the delicate job of separating meat 

or fish from skin and bone. The Japanese 

deba performs a similar task. 

CARVING KNIFE – a long, narrow blade essential 

for carnivores seeking impeccably fine 

slices of their Sunday roast. The Japanese 

equivalent is a sujihiki. 

BREAD KNIFE – a serrated blade that cuts 

through bread crust without crushing the 

doughy interior. Also useful for slicing thinskinned 

fruit such as tomatoes or peaches. 

CLEAVER – a heavyweight butcher’s knife 

for cutting meat on the bone. Use this to save 

time and avoid ruining your other knives. 

Photos: Wüsthof, Getty Images/Kay Fochtmann / EyeEm, Manki Kim/unsplash, Shutterstock 


in a drawer. The Sharpening Shed, as its 

name suggests, offers a knife sharpening 

service and hopes to resume courses 

teaching how to use and look after knives. 

NUANCED CHOICES 

Those who have decided they possess the 

skills and inclination to commit to a 

seriously high-end knife then need to 

navigate the bewildering array of options 

available. The first, most basic criterion is 

whether to choose a knife made from a 

single piece of steel or with a bolted-on 

handle. After that, the shopping process 

becomes rather more nuanced. Lively 

debate rumbles on amongst knife enthusiasts 

about whether European or Japanese 

steel is superior. Then there is the decision 

over whether your knife should be of 

stainless, carbon or even Damascus steel – 

and that is before you have even thought 

about the handle or how many knives you 

need. 

WHICH KNIVES DO YOU NEED? 

Shannon suggests that for a home cook, 

“unless they are into something 

really specific like sushi or hunting 

and fishing, I would say they 

need about five knives: a bread 

knife, carving knife, paring 

knife and then a couple of 

utility knives for things like 

vegetables.” While most brands 

helpfully offer ready-made sets, 

Shannon notes a rise in the 

number of people who prefer a 

more considered approach. “We are 

seeing more customers buying loose 

knives instead of sets,” she reports. “They 

are happy to pick, choose and curate their 

own set.” 

As for brand or material choice, these 

often come down as much to personal 

preference as any definitive criteria of “the 

best.” Japanese knives are famed for lightness 

and precision, ideal for those perfect 

slivers of sashimi. However, they also tend 

to be more brittle than their sturdier 

western counterparts, requiring diligent 

care and sharpening. Do not even think 

about using them on a glass surface 

protector either; you will need to stick 

religiously to a wooden chopping board. 

These considerations clearly split top end 

AS FOR BRAND 

OR MATERIAL 

CHOICE, THESE OFTEN 

COME DOWN AS 

MUCH TO PERSONAL 

PREFERENCE AS ANY 

DEFINITIVE CRITERIA. 

Good and regular sharpening is essential. 

Professional sharpening services are sought 

by many knife enthusiasts. 

customers equally: Shannon points to 

almost identical sales of leading Japanese 

knife producer Global and the highly 

regarded German brand Wüsthof. 

WHAT KIND OF STEEL? 

For all their differences, both brands make 

their knives with stainless steel. Yet delve 

into the online world of knife enthusiasts 

and it is easy to be left with the impression 

that a truly dedicated chef chooses carbon 

steel. Harder, sharper and staining into a 

beautiful patina over time, carbon steel will 

always have its devotees, but others find 

those attributes come at too high a cost. 

Stainless steel will not rust or react unpleasantly 

with onions; it is less brittle; 

nor does it demand the rigorous cleaning, 

drying and oiling that carbon steel aficionados 

embrace with such reverence. There 

seems to be a consensus that, if you are 

not planning to develop an obsessively 

emotional relationship with your knife, 

< 


falstaff 

159


The beautiful 

patterns of 

Damascus steel 

are mesmerising 

to look at. 

< 

stainless steel 

is the most pragmatic 

path. 

BESPOKE KNIVES 

As with so many other objects where 

craftsmanship must combine flawless 

technical performance with aesthetic 

appeal, the ultimate satisfaction comes 

from a bespoke approach. Laurie Timpson 

set out to offer just that when he founded 

Savernake Knives back in 2016. The 

company promises over 44,000 customisation 

options, and can even incorporate 

clients’ own materials into the design, like 

a favourite fabric or children’s artwork. 

The process is intensely collaborative: the 

client is involved in every detail from initial 

sketches through to the production of a 3D 

model, acrylic mock-up and finally steel 

prototype. 

MYTHS AND HARD FACTS 

Savernake may not boast the centuries of 

heritage of other knife makers, but 

Timpson cites the theory, popularised by 

Malcolm Gladwell in his book The 

Outliers, that it takes 10,000 hours of 

practice in any given field to achieve real 

expertise. “Well, this is all I’ve done for six 

years now,” he says, before noting disarmingly, 

“it’s not rocket science.” Indeed, 

Timpson has plenty of colourful words to 

describe what he views as “the mystique 

and marketing spent on obfuscation” in his 

trade. A particular gripe is “turning a bug 

into a feature.” For example, he claims, 

“some people say the steel should not be as 

hard, but that’s a weakness.” 

Timpson insists the basic premise of 

his craft is relatively simple. “For a good 

quality knife you need good quality steel, 

hardened and heat treated for a good blade 

that is balanced,” he says. “To get that into 

one knife consistently requires more time 

than most mass market companies have the 

taste for.” By good quality steel, Timpson 

STEEL 

Steel is an alloy based on iron. 

Different components create 

different types of steel: 

STAINLESS STEEL 

A higher proportion of chromium in the alloy 

prevents oxidation and corrosion. Stainless 

steel is easy to clean and look after and 

durable. 

CARBON STEEL 

A higher proportion of carbon hardens the 

metal so the blades resist wear and retain 

their sharp edge for longer. Carbon steel is 

very durable but needs care to protect it from 

corrosion. 

DAMASCUS STEEL 

The beautiful patterns that grace Damascus 

steel blades are down to different steels 

being layered – one harder, one more flexible 

– and then combined, giving the blade the 

properties of both kinds of steel. These blades 

are less hard than carbon steel – the chief 

attraction is visual – even though different 

makes have different properties and some are 

of extremely high quality and sharpness. 

A professional-quality 

knife makes for more 

professional-looking 

food at home. 

clarifies, “you’ve got to get to 60 Rockwell 

C hardness,” a grade he maintains is 

impossible with cheaper steel used by some 

firms – the Rockwell scale measures the 

hardness of cutting tools. He identifies cutting 

corners on heat treatment as another 

time-saving temptation for brands seeking 

to reduce cost at the expense of quality. 

HANDLING IT 

Of course, knives are not just about the 

blade: there is the handle to consider too. 

The first major decision is between wood, 

which requires care, or a lower maintenance 

synthetic material such as Corian which 

also introduces scope for a more colourful, 

contemporary look. Although this sort of 

aesthetic consideration is far more subjective, 

Timpson stresses its importance for 

truly happy customers. “If they like how it 

looks they’ll look after it better,” he 

explains. 

In short, any quest for the “best” kitchen 

knife is a mirage. The successful search process 

involves as much analysis of one’s own 

character and capabilities as those of the 

knife. As Shannon so pointedly remarks, 

“knives are only as good as the person 

using them.” 

< 

Photos: Shutterstock, Global/Werner Krug 


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spirits / TEQUILA & MEZCAL 

The expert 

horticulturists 

who tend and 

harvest agave are 

called jimadores. 

They know the 

exact moment of 

ripeness. 



VAMOS 

AGAVE! 

A booming US market is fueling an entire 

category of agave spirits. Both Tequila and 

mezcal are forging ahead – and giving rise to 

the desire for ever more authentic distillates. 

WORDS ROLAND GRAF 


falstaff 

163


Above: Agave plants are not cacti but belong to the asparagus family. 

They thrive in arid and semi-arid regions. Left: The golden colour of aged 

mezcal. Below: The old-fashioned way of mashing cooked agave. 

It takes about one agave 

plant to make a bottle 

of Tequila or mezcal – 

and on average, 400 

million agave hearts are 

distilled every year. But agave’s 

home nation, Mexico, is now 

just a small player in the market: 

about 75 percent of Mexico’s 

Tequila production is exported – and 

the United States in particular cannot 

seem to get enough of agave distillates. 

While Tequila is flying high, mezcal has 

performed spectacularly well in its slipstream. 

An interesting development since 

every Tequila is in fact a mezcal. 

Mezcal is the name for all agave distillates. 

Tequila was coined when mezcal 

from the Mexican state of Jalisco was 

exported to America – labelled Mezcal de 

Tequila. Over time, the name was shortened 

and only Tequila remained – the name 

of Jalisco’s state capital. It was the invention 

of the Margarita cocktail that ensured 

its popularity. While mezcal can be made 

anywhere, Tequila production is restricted 

to Jalisco which still produces 80 percent 

Photos: Shutterstock, Fernando Andrade/uinsplash, Mary West/unsplash 


of Tequila and smaller areas in the Mexican 

states of Nayarit, Tamaulipas, Michoacán 

and Guanajuato – and only one type of 

agave is permitted: the blue Weber agave 

(Agave tequilana Weber). But caveat 

emptor: the category of mixtos, allows 

distillates of agave with up to 49 percent of 

other fermentable sugars from raw 

materials like maize – which are obviously 

cheaper to produce than 100 percent agave 

distillates. By law, Tequila must be made of 

at least 51 percent agave. 

WHAT ARE 

TEQUILA AND 

MEZCAL? 

The agave plant, part of the asparagus 

family, and distinctly not a cactus, 

despite its spiky looks, is key to Tequila 

and mezcal’s quality. The plant thrives in 

arid and semi-arid regions and roughly 

200 kinds of agave are found in Mexico, of 

which about 50 are used for mezcal 

production. Some are used for syrup 

production, some as animal feed, some for 

their fibre. Most agaves only flower once in 

their lifetime and then die. They store their 

sugars in their heart, or piña. The inflorescence 

must be trimmed before flowering 

and the agave heart harvested when its 

sugar content is highest. Agaves take years 

to mature and require careful trimming by 

highly skilled so-called jimadores. Thus, 

even in periods of great demand, agave 

production is not easily scaled. 

TASTE OF THE LAND 

Mezcal, on the other hand, permits more 

kinds of agave which gives more scope for 

flavour – and here is where Tequila and 

mezcal differ from other spirits: there is a 

real flavour and taste difference depending 

on the raw material. In whisky or vodka 

< 

TEQUILA 

Tequila is the most well-known version of the 

agave spirit mezcal, distilled from the succulent 

heart of the agave plant. Both must have 

an ABV of between 35-55%. The portion of 

agave has to be at least 51% – but the best 

Tequila is made from 100% agave. 

The agave’s fleshy heart, or piña, is harvested, 

cooked in large ovens to make its sugars 

fermentable, then mashed into a pulp. The 

remaining fibre can be used as fuel or animal 

feed. The pulp is then fermented. The resulting 

alcoholic liquid is distilled into ordinario, 

and then distilled again into clear Tequila. 

This is sold as white or silver Tequila. Aged 

versions, like reposado, añejo or extra añejo 

are matured in barrel. 

Blanco (white) or plata (silver) – unaged 

Reposado – aged for a minimum of two 

months but less than a year 

Añejo – aged for a minimum of one year but 

less than three 

Extra Añejo – aged for a minimum of three 

years but many exceed this. 

MEZCAL 

Mezcal must be made from 100% agave and 

more varieties of agave are permitted, resulting 

in much more varied flavour. 

Production is usually more artisanal, using 

traditional brick ovens, hornos, or clay ovens, 

hornos de tierra. 

Mezcal must be bottled at the distillery, or 

palenque, where it is made. It can be produced 

in the Mexican states of Durango, Zacatecas, 

Michoacán, Puebla, Guerrero, Tamaulipas, 

San Luis Potosí, Guanajuato and Oaxaca – but 

most of it is made in Oaxaca. 

Mezcal is often made in traditional 

artisanal ways: using clay ovens, 

or hornos de tierra (above) or 

brick ovens like this one. 


falstaff 

165


A farmer and his horse walk 

through an agave plantation 

in Jalisco, Mexico. 

< 

the provenance of the grain 

is of little importance. In 

Tequila and mezcal it is. 

Purists thus prefer unaged 

agave distillate since it 

expresses its flavours more 

clearly. Mezcals distilled from 

coastal or highland agave differ. 

“The chemical composition differs 

significantly, depending on the 

character of agave and the natural 

yeasts,” says mezcal expert Araceli Minerva 

Vera Guzmán. In an industry where raw 

materials are essentially fungible, agave 

distillates are an exception. Restricted to 

specific origins and taking years to 

cultivate, agave is a limited resource. 

FLAVOUR AND DEMAND 

Despite significantly increased mezcal 

production over past years, the four million 

litres produced annually do not even come 

close to satisfying global demand. The 

completely artisanal version of mezcal, 

called mezcal ancestral, is even rarer with 

an annual production of just 5,000 litres. 

Collectors go wild for this spirit. But there 

Above: One of the many versions 

of the Margarita cocktail with its 

famous salt and lime rim. 

are even more unusual versions of mezcal: 

some artisanal mezcals are re-distilled with 

tropical fruits and herbs. So if you want a 

real experience, go for 100 percent agave 

distillates and start exploring the different 

kinds of agave, some of which are made 

from single varieties: Espadín, Tobala, 

Tobasiche, Arroqueno, Tepeztate, Madrecuishe, 

Bicuishe, Cupreata and more are 

waiting to be discovered. 

FROZEN 

MARGARITA 

Invented in the 1940s, here is 

the classic Margarita recipe. 

INGREDIENTS 

2 parts Tequila Blanco 

1 part Cointreau 

1 part lime juice 

Fine sea salt 

GLASS 

Margarita 

METHOD 

First, dip the rim of the glass first in lime 

juice, then in fine salt to create a salty 

rim around the glass. 

Put Tequila, Cointreau and lime juice into 

a blender with a lot of ice. Pulse until 

you have a slush. Carefully decant into a 

glass and garnish with a slice of lime. 

Tip: Adding fresh fruit to the blender 

makes this infinitely variable: think pineapple, 

strawberry, watermelon... 

Photos: Shutterstock, Distilleries 


BEST OF 

TEQUILA AND MEZCAL 

94 

XIAMAN MEZCAL 

ARTESANAL 

Complex smoke on the nose, 

very characteristic of agave, 

but not too overpowering. 

Much freshness with a hint 

of citrus zest and notes 

of freshly cut grass. 

Multi-layered texture, 

subtle spice and agave 

sweetness. 

••••• 

94 

CURADO ESPADIN 

Hints of cooked agave on 

the nose with overtones of 

pepper and smoke. Profound 

sweetness lends 

extra dimension to the 

fragrance. Softness, too, on 

the palate that runs right 

through to the finish, plus 

notes of freshly cracked 

pepper. 

•••• 

93 

DON JULIO BLANCO 

The first impression on the 

nose is of cooked agave with 

slight spice in the background. 

Soft on the palate 

with sweetish overtones, 

typical pepperiness 

redoubles on the 

finish. 

••• 

92 

CURADO CUPREATA 

Powerful nose with a profound 

note of agave, syrup and a 

touch of lime. On the palate rather 

sweet before white pepper 

and fennel become evident. Spicy 

resonance on the finish. 

••• 

91 

MONTELOBOS 

ENSAMBLE JOVEN 

The scent unfolds slowly 

and needs much air. 

Cooked agave, green 

pepper and a rather subtle 

smokiness evolve. Salty 

padron peppers on the 

palate with peppery 

overtones. Long length. 

•••• 

91 

PADRE AZUL 

TEQUILA BLANCO 

The first whiff brings sweetish 

agave with hints of ripe pineapple 

and a touch of lime 

zest, the mouthfeel is soft 

and ripe fruit is present 

here, too. The rich finish 

is spiced up by pepper 

notes. 

•••• 

90 

SIERRA ANTIGUO 

TEQUILA AÑEJO 

An interesting nose of plantain, 

ripe tobacco and black 

pepper is convincing. Oak initially 

dominates the palate 

before notes of cooked agave 

equalise. A touch of maple 

syrup appears on the finish. 

••• 

90 

CURADO TEQUILA 

BLANCO 

Infusión de Blue Agave 

Spiciness characterises the 

nose alongside overtones 

of grassiness. The palate 

has hints of rowan berry 

and slight marzipan, there 

are notes of pepper on the 

solid finish. 

••• 

90 

PADRE AZUL TEQUILA 

AÑEJO 

Rich nose of profound sweetness 

and agave syrup carried by 

some bitter cocoa powder 

and tobacco-scented oak. 

The palate holds similar 

notions but the wood is 

more prominent, sweet 

finish. 

••••• 


• 

EUR •••• •• 


/ GBP 51 – 100 and USD 

•• 

61 – 110 above EUR / GBP ••••• ••• 

100 and USD 110 


falstaff 

167

07 07 

99 004524 9 004524 000851 

000851 

9 004524 000851 

07 

07 

SPAIN 

Europe 

Rather well-hidden behind a mass-market 

image, Cava and Corpinnat present sparkling 

wines of true identity and character. Falstaff 

urges you to explore these Spanish originals. 

WORDS FINTAN KERR 

The best Cavas and Corpinnat wines are 

made from fruit grown on old bush vines 

like these. This is a sun-ripened bunch of 

Parellada grapes, one of the classic and 

characteristic grape varieties of Cava. 

38 falstaff winter 2021 winter 2021 falstaff 39 

114 falstaff winter 2021 

Umami is one of the five tastes along with sweet, sour, salty and bitter. 

Umami and sweetness are present in mother’s milk: both tastes 

are emotionally loaded and release happy signals in the reward centres 

of our brains. Here is what umami is all about. 

WORDS MARLIES GRUBER 

ILLUSTRATION GINA MÜLLER 

winter 2021 

falstaff 

115 

Paris 

CHAMPAGNE 

France 

All too often Champagne is just a symbol: the corks pop, the bubbles foam, 

the celebration begins. But we ask you to stop and savour the actual wine, 

a cultural artefact and the true product of a landscape in northern France. 


Long ageing in cool, 

underground cellars 

is a key part of the 

Champagne style and 

26 falstaff winter 2021 winter 2021 falstaff 27 

flavour. 

accents and facets. Of all red grape varieties, it is the one that supposedly 

best expresses a sense of place. Falstaff traces it around the world. 


12 falstaff winter 2021 

Pinot Noir has been grown in Burgundy 

for centuries. One of the most famous 

grand cru vineyards, Clos de Vougeot, 

was planted by Cistercian monks. The 

château was added in the 16th century. 

winter 2021 

falstaff 

13 

letters page 

/ winter 2021 


ICONIC REDS 

THE WORLD‘S TOP 

100 RED WINES 

CHAMPAGNE 

PRESTIGE 

CUVÉES 

SUSHI 

THE 25 BEST 

RESTAURANTS 

THE FIRST 

INTERNATIONAL 

PRINT ISSUE 

We love to hear from our readers and we appreciate your 

feedback – by letter, email or via social media! 

Here are some of the reactions to our winter issue which 

appeared in November 2021. 

Let’s Explore 

LIVING LIFE TO 

THE FULL 

01/2021 

€ 12.– | $ 15.– | £ 10.– 

“If it was an album, 

it would be Stevie 

Wonder’s Songs in 

the Key of Life.” 

MICHELE MUNRO 

We’d love to hear from you! 

You can write to us at 

editorial@falstaff.com 

We reserve the right to abbreviate 

letters and emails. 

wine / CAVA & CORPINNAT 

SPANISH 

SPARKLE 

I do not want to miss the opportunity 

to congratulate you on 

your Falstaff first international 

print issue. It is marvellous! 

Elena Arzak, Arzak Restaurant 

Donostia – San Sebastián, Spain 

essay / UMAMI 

UMAMI 

THE SAVOURY 

SENSATION 

Your first edition of Falstaff 

International Magazine landed 

on my desk this morning. 

The magazine looks great and 

I’ll be reading it cover to cover 

over the next few days. 

Sam Barry, Jim Barry Wines 

Clare, South Australia 

Photo: D.O. Cava/Sam Zucker 

Three days ago an almighty thud 

was heard at midday in our hall. 

It was the postie delivering Falstaff. 

Thank you so much. 

Congratulations on producing 

such a well laid out periodical. 

Super professional. Very informative, 

too. 

David Murdoch 

London, England 

wine / CHAMPAGNE 

CHAMP AGNE: 

WHEN THE MYTH 

RETURNS TO THE SOIL 

I don’t have time to read for 

pleasure that often (a New Year’s 

resolution I’m working on) but I 

have made time for the new 

@falstaff_intl magazine. Wine, 

Food & Travel – three of my 

favourite things – beautifully and 

knowledgeably written. 

Libby Zietsman-Brodie 

via Twitter 


wine / PINOT NOIR 

PINOT NOIR 

– A GLOBAL 

LOVE AFFAIR 

Pinot Noir is an obsession. It shows its essential nature through many local 

Photo: mauritius images / Alamy / ICP 

Bloody hell! The first international 

print edition of Falstaff 

magazine could have been written 

just for me. 

We kick off with an article on 

Pinot Noir outside Burgundy, 

with some superb bottle recommendations. 

Next there’s a whole 

section on Champagne, including 

a prestige cuvée taste-off 

and some words from Jean-Baptiste 

Lécaillon about maintaining 

the highest standards of integrity 

in the Louis Roederer house. 

And, to cap it all, I was hugely 

excited to find a most-excellent 

twelve pages devoted to eating, 

drinking, skiing and hanging out 

in the Alps. 

If this was an album it would 

be Stevie Wonder’s Songs in the 

Key of Life. 

Michele Munro 

via Instagram 


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tasting / GLOBAL CHENIN BLANC TROPHY 

The Loire region where 

Chenin Blanc is at home, 

is crowded with fairy-tale 

architecture like Château 

de Chenonceau on the 

river Cher, a tributary to 

the Loire. 

GLOBAL 

CHENIN 

BLANC 

TROPHY 


Photos: Shutterstock, Millton/STRIKE2010 


Chenin Blanc is one of the 

most underrated white 

grapes out there, often 

overlooked in favour of 

better-known white grapes, 

but we urge you to try it. 


Blind tastings are an integral part of 

every magazine that covers wine. At 

Falstaff, both in our quarterly print 

editions and online at falstaff.com, we 

will feature themed wine competitions – 

which we call “Trophies” – to pitch wines 

against each other under a common 

theme, be it varietal, regional or stylistic. 

Chenin Blanc is native to the 

Loire Valley in France where it 

makes incredibly long-lived 

dry and sweet as well as 

sparkling wines. It is the white 

grape behind such famous appellations as 

Vouvray, Saumur, Montlouis and Savennières. 

It comes with naturally high acidity 

and this stands it in good stead in its adopted 

second home: South Africa. Yet we also 

received entries from New Zealand and 

Spain! 

Chenin’s flavours are complex, running 

the gamut of fruit: from delicate green apple 

via quince to the tropical richness of 

mango, passion fruit and pineapple. This 

tasting showed that it can make exquisitely 

light, fragrant wines as well as vividly 

full-fruited examples that sport delicious 

overtones of candlewax and even honey. 

Our winning wine hails from Gisborne, 

New Zealand, a ripe, expressive and layered 

wine from the Te Arai vineyard that 

seems made for the table as it reveals ever 

fresh nuances of flavour. The Milltons, 

pioneers of biodynamic farming in New 

Zealand, had a real hunch when they planted 

this. A South African Chenin takes 

second place – and like so many fine South 

African wines it is made from the fruit of 

really old vines – in this case they were 56 

years old. Fermented in barrel, it is a complex, 

nutty wine that comes with lovely 

depth. The third place goes to one of the 

Loire’s greatest appellations and producers: 

Couly-Dutheil from Chinon. While it has 

tropical fruit notions from the warm 2020 

vintage, it also has the unmistakeable conifer 

scent of the Loire. Pitching these origins 

against each other was huge fun – we suggest 

you do the same – because these wines 

are great value and absolutely delicious. 

< 

PLACE 

MILLTON TE ARAI 

CHENIN BLANC 2019 


falstaff 

171

tasting / GLOBAL CHENIN BLANC TROPHY 

KEY TO SYMBOLS 

94 

• 

white wine, dry 

red wine, dry 

• dessert wine 

• rosé 






International 

Entries 

BIO Millton Te Arai Chenin Blanc 

2019 

Gisborne, New Zealand 

A lovely touch of flinty reduction gives 

verve to a finely fruited nose alongside 

some honeyed notes. The vivid palate comes 

in with tropical notions of juicy passion 

fruit and yellow peach, outlined with 

fresh lemon. There is a peppery streak in 

the background while the finish is appetising 

and enlivening. Gorgeous. 

millton.co.nz •• 


93 

• 

Stellenrust 56 Barrel Fermented 

Chenin Blanc 2020 

Stellenbosch, South Africa 

Molten candlewax and tropical notions of 

pineapple make for a rich and ripe nose, 

edged with spice. That generosity and 

ripeness carries onto the palate where it 

is joined by hints of passion fruit. There is 

texture and pith and superior freshness 

lingering long on the finish. 

stellenrust.co.za 

• 

Couly-Dutheil Les Chanteaux 2020 

• 

Chinon, France 

A lovely and pure note of pineapple appears 

first on the nose. That pineapple 

aroma carries right over to the palate 

where it is joined by a beautifully aromatic 

and lifted note of conifer. That interplay 

of slender, linear body, fine 

freshness and tropical generosity is quite 

disarming. 

coulydutheil-chinon.com 

• 

• 

Bouvet Ladubay La Nompareille 

Saumur Blanc 2017 

Saumur, France 

A touch of oak lends vanilla notes to the 

lovely candlewax and citrus nose. The palate 

mirrors the aromas with its texture, 

presenting an almost waxy mouthfeel 

that is super-smooth, ripe and rounded 

but still beautifully fresh. A rather complex 

wine with a long, fresh finish. 

bouvet-ladubay.fr 

• 

• 

Château de Fesles La Chapelle 

Vielles Vignes Chenin Sec 2018 

Anjou, France 

A lovely hint of aromatic citrus – akin to 

bergamot or Seville orange – plays on the 

One of South Africa’s 

gnarly old vines. 

PLACE 

STELLENRUST 56 BARREL 

FERMENTED CHENIN BLANC 2020 


• 

EUR •••• •• 

nose. The palate indeed comes with citric 

freshness and a lovely aromatic expression. 

There is also a sense of waxy, rich 

texture and tropical overtones. The finish 

is vivid, long and utterly mouth-watering. 

groupegcf.com 

• 

• 

Warwick Old Vine Chenin Blanc 

2020 

Simonsberg, Stellenbosch, 

South Africa 

The shy nose takes some air to unfold before 

revealing subtle hints of ripe pear 

flesh. The palate comes in with a sunny, 

friendly, smooth fruitiness, think ripe 

pear, yellow plum and lemon – backed by 

freshness and made smooth by ripeness. 

Lovely, concentrated and harmonious. 

warwickwine.com •• 

92 

• 

Bernard Fouquet Domaine des Aubuisières 

Cuvée de Perruches Vouvray 

2020 

Vouvray, France 

A rather subtle nose gives mere glimpses 

of lemony freshness. The medium-bodied 

palate, however, presents a vivid picture 

of zesty, spritzy citrus peel – as ripe as 

Amalfi lemon – and a pithy, textured 

depth and concentration. There is a lovely 

saltiness to the finish that makes 

this absolutely appetising. 

vouvrayfouquet.com 

• 

Denis Marchais Chenin Blanc 2019 

• 

Loire-Atlantique, France 

The merest touch of wax and smoke 

joins hints of honeydew melon on the 

nose. The palate picks these notions 

up and displays them against a backdrop 

of profound, cooling chalkiness. 

This is textured, ripe, exquisitely fresh. 

What a wine. 

no website 

• 

• 

Bouvet Ladubay Les Pépites 


Loire, France 

The nose is of ripe Red Delicious apple – 

both freshly cut and baked – with a lovely 

hint of yeast. The palate is a seamless 

continuation of those pure apple notes, 

bedded in that lovely, yeasty texture and 

pervaded by fine, accentuating freshness. 

Simply lovely and utterly harmonious. 

bouvet-ladubay.fr 

• 

• 

Domaine Garrabou L’Estrade 


Limoux, France 

Candlewax, melon and a hint of vanilla 

are fused on the nose, highlighted by a 

touch of lime. The palate adds a gorgeously 

smoky note to this layered, complex 

wine. The palate is rounded but 

fresh, the finish is lasting and so clean. 

no website 

• 


•• 


Photos: Shutterstock, Stellenrust, KOEphotography

Cape Dutch architecture in South 

Africa’s vineyards. Chenin Blanc has 

found a new home here. 

PLACE 

COULY-DUTHEIL 

LES CHANTEAUX 2020 

• 

Georges Vigouroux Chenin de 

Mercuès 2020 

Cahors, France 

A glint of blossom honey joins the hazelnut 

subtlety of the nose. The palate comes 

in with generous and full-fruited 

ripeness: think juicy flesh of pear, peach 

and melon with a touch of oaky vanilla. 

This is simply a lovely set of flavours, 

complex, rounded, fresh and lasting. 

g-vigouroux.fr 

• 

91 

• 

Acacia Road Chenin Blanc 2021 

Western Cape, South Africa 

There is little beyond a touch of lemon 

zest on the nose, more air then suggests 

tropical hints. The palate shows no such 

restraint: there is pineapple juiciness, 

etched with bright citrus zest. This is totally 

refreshing and very vivid. 

originwine.co.za 

• 

First Cape Special Cuvée Chenin 

• 

Blanc 2021 


The nose brims with notions of peardrop 

while the palate holds riper, tropical notions, 

hinting at pineapple and melon. 

Fine freshness pervades everything while 

a pleasantly bitter edge is reminiscent of 

citrus zest. The finish is bright and dry. 

firstcape.com 

• 

• 

Kleine Zalze Chenin Blanc 2021 


Lovely fresh pear and bright citrus shine 

on the nose. The palate displays that 

same, bright and fresh citrus intensity 

and backs it with a mouth-watering and 

pithy texture. There is lovely concentration 

and fine freshness that leaves a lasting 

impression. 

kleinezalze.co.za 

• 

• 

Fournier Père et Fils Val de Loire 

Mmm Chenin Blanc 

2020 

Loire, France 

All is subtle on the nose: the hint of lemon, 

the touch of wax, the merest whiff 

of smoke. The palate then reveals quite 

some concentration, a fine texture and a 

whole lot of zesty, citrussy freshness. 

Quite the package. Lovely. 

fournier-pere-fils.com 

• 

Château Fouquet Saumur Blanc 

• 

2020 

Saumur, France 

A beautifully pure note of freshly 

cut green and red apple rises from 

the glass. The slender palate adds a 

lovely, pithy note to this as well as 

lovely freshness. There is some 

concentration and a lasting, dry, 

apple-flavoured finish. 

domaine-filliatreau.com •• 

• 

Can Ràfols dels Caus La Calma 

2018 

Penedès, Spain 

Pineapple, a hint of mango and a touch of 

molten candlewax combine on the nose. 

They also appear on the palate where a 

lovely, slightly waxy texture underscores 

ripeness and richness but fine, clear 

freshness gives contour to everything. 

canrafolsdelscaus.com •• 

90 

• 

Domaine du Vieux Vauvert Vouvray 

2020 

Vouvray, France 

A hint of honey joins wax and papaya on 

the nose. The palate combines tropical 

lushness of fruit with a waxy, pithy 

mouthfeel, freshness and concentration. 

no website 

• 

Stellenrust Chenin Blanc 2021 

• 

Stellenbosch, South Africa 

Vivid freshness of citrus and bright conifer. 

The palate follows with pervasive, 

freshness on a slender but concentrated 

palate. Bright citrus flavours shine, ring 

long and make this extremely refreshing. 

stellenrust.co.za 

• 

More tasting notes 

online at 

falstaff.com 


falstaff 

173

tasting / SOUTHERN FRENCH WHITE WINE TROPHY 

Many stretches of the 

Languedoc in southern 

France are beautifully 

rugged and 

mountainous. 

SOUTHERN 

FRENCH 

WHITE WINE 

TROPHY 


Photos: Shutterstock, Domaine Duclaux 


The South of France is rightly 

loved for its red wines, but 

with spring in the air, we 

were determined to highlight 

the white wines of that 

gorgeous landscape. 


Blind tastings are an integral part of 

every magazine that covers wine. At 

Falstaff, both in our quarterly print 

editions and online at falstaff.com, we 

will feature themed wine competitions – 

which we call “Trophies” – to pitch wines 

against each other under a common 

theme, be it varietal, regional or stylistic. 

The sheer diversity of white grape 

varieties we received was 

dazzling: Marsanne, Viognier, 

Grenache Blanc, Rolle (as Vermentino 

is known in these 

parts), Piquepoul, Roussanne, Gros and 

Petit Manseng – all the white treasures of 

Southern France – as well as international 

varieties like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc 

and Sémillon. We received single-varietal 

wines and blends – all kissed by the sun. 

The diversity of appellations was equally 

broad: from Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh, via Provence, 

across Languedoc and Gaillac. And 

while the south is known for its red and 

rosé wines, the white wines don’t get nearly 

enough limelight – and we wanted to change 

that. 

Naturally, the wines from such a broad 

intake come in a variety of styles, so read 

beyond the score and look at our tasting 

notes to get an idea if you are in for a 

full-bodied, gastronomic white or a scented, 

lighter summer wine. 

Our winning wine is from a rather venerable 

appellation: Châteauneuf-du-Pape. 

This area in the southern Rhône counts 

amongst the world’s greatest for red wines, 

but its whites are a discovery: textured, 

rounded and age-worthy. These whites are 

so overlooked – so we are happy to highlight 

this winner. Our second place goes to 

another famed appellation: Saint-Chinian. 

This blend of Roussanne and Grenache 

Blanc presents a wonderful mix of nutty 

and peachy flavours. The third place is 

taken by a regional appellation: Languedoc 

AOC. This blend of Marsanne, Roussanne 

and Vermentino is smooth and rich but also 

wonderfully fresh – and comes with these 

varieties’ customary texture. Enjoy! 

< 

PLACE 

DOMAINE DUCLAUX 

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 

BLANC 2019 


falstaff 

175



red wine, dry 


• rosé 






94 

• 

Regional 

Entries 

Domaine Duclaux Châteauneuf-du-Pape 

Blanc 2019 

Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France 

The aroma of ripe, fresh Mirabelle plums 

is pure on the nose. On the palate the 

nutty touch of oak emerges and adds 

weight to the lovely, ripe fruit. The palate 

is slender, bright and fresh and comes 

with lovely resonance and balance. 

m.famillequiot.com •• 

93 

• 

Cave de Roquebrun Saint-Chinian 

Golden Vines Blanc 2019 

Saint-Chinian, France 

The subtle vanilla- and hazelnut-tinged 

creaminess of oak joins a delicious note 

of ripe peach on the nose. On the palate 

the oak speaks louder for now, but that 

peachy fruit is undeniably there with its 

juiciness. The entire body and the long finish 

are pervaded by a serene freshness. 

cave-roquebrun.fr 

• 

• 

BIO Château de Lascaux Les 

Pierres d’Argent 2016 

Languedoc, France 

This seems like sunshine in a glass: a 

glint of sun-warmed earth flashed on the 

nose alongside subtle pear. The palate 

adds a lovely vein of freshness to this, 

shining with texture and relative richness, 

even though there is nothing heavy 

about it. It is on the finish that smooth 

peach is revealed. 

chateau-lascaux.com 

• 


PLACE 

CAVE DE ROQUEBRUN 

SAINT-CHINIAN GOLDEN VINES 

BLANC 2019 

Gobelet-trained vines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and large round pebbles, known as galets. 

92 

• 

Cave de Roquebrun Chemin des 

Olivettes Blanc 2021 


At first there is ripe, juicy peach, but then 

a lovely floral note appears, lifting the 

entire nose with its honeysuckle and 

freesia scent. The palate also has this interplay 

of white peach flesh and florality. 

This is scented, delicate, light, fresh, 

bright and oh so appetising. This says 

summer wine. 


• 

Cave de Roquebrun Col de l’Orb 

• 

Blanc 2021 


The intense aroma of peach on the nose 

is beguiling. The palate holds the same 

aroma and fruitiness on a slender, taut 

palate that is bright with freshness. This 

is supremely aromatic and beautifully 

balanced. 


• 

• 

Paul Mas Reserve Languedoc 

Blanc 2020 


The loveliest whiff of bergamot plays on 

the nose, promising aromatic finesse. 

The palate continues in the citric vein but 

adds ripe, rounded tropical flavours 

alongside pithy depth and fine freshness. 

The finish is zesty, vivid, fresh and lasting. 

paulmas.com 

• 

91 

• 

Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence 

Blanc 2021 

Côtes de Provence, France 

EUR 

•• 


• 

EUR •••• •• 

A very fruity nose boasts hints of ripe citrus 

and white pear, but there are tropical 

overtones, too. The palate is light and 

balanced and reveals a lovely spicy, grassy 

undertow. The finish is harmonious, 

dry and fresh. 

famillequiot.com 

• 

• 

Domaine Garrabou Fontvieille 

Chardonnay 2020 


The hint of ripe passion fruit is most 

subtle but becomes more distinct 

with air. The palate is rounded, fresh 

and comes with lovely concentration 

that bursts with juicy peach fruit. Fine, 

lemony freshness frames this and underlines 

the lovely texture. Quite the 

package. 

no website 

• 

• 

S. Delafont Limoux 2018 


Peach, a hint of cassis and baked apple, 

all spiked by vivid lemon, make for a super-fruity 

nose. The palate corrals all of 

these flavours into a surprisingly lithe 

body, adding both a slightly phenolic texture 

and lovely freshness. This is expressive, 

concentrated and bold. Made for the 

table. 

delafont-languedoc.fr •• 

• 

Château d’Anglès Grand Vin Blanc 

2019 

La Clape, France 

A very fruity nose boasts hints of ripe citrus 

and white pear, but there are tropical 

overtones, too. The palate is light and 

balanced and reveals a lovely spicy, grassy 

undertow. The finish is harmonious, 


chateaudangles.com •• 



Photos: Shutterstock, Golden Vines, Chateau Lascaux

tasting / SOUTHERN FRENCH WHITE WINE TROPHY 

• 

La Pèira en Damaisela Deusyls de 

la Pèira 2017 

Hérault, France 

A streak of lemon jumps from the glass, 

followed by hints of baked apple. Honey 

then creeps in. The palate introduces a 

slight earthiness and comes across as 

much smoother than the lemony nose 

suggests. However, the wine opens up 

and shows concentration, alcoholic 

warmth and lemon zest freshness. The finish 

is rich, fresh, nutty, smooth and dry. 

lapeira.wordpress.com •• 

90 

• 

Pujalet Côtes de Gascogne 2020 

Côtes de Gascogne, France 

Both lemon and yellow plum are rather 

subtle on the nose. It is on the fresh, vivid 

and bright palate that the full extent of 

the fruit appears: peach, lemon, pear and 

lime plus crushed white summer berries. 

The defining theme is the lovely lemon 

brightness on this fresh, sunny wine. 

plaimont.com 

• 

• 

La Baume Cuvée Florence 

Piquepoul Sauvignon Blanc 2020 

Côtes de Thau, France 

Just subtle hints of lemon flash up on 

the shy nose. The palate is bright and 

fresh and reveals much more fruit. Think 

juicy peach with lemon. There is a pithy 

texture, too, and a bright, lemony finish. 

groupegcf.com 

• 

Strateus Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh 

• 

Sec 2020 

Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh, France 

The nose is very shy, but the palate comes 

in with lovely, fresh lightness, lots of 

lemon brightness and a whole lot of summery 

ease. The finish is bright, dry and 

zippy. 

• 

• 

Domaine Bassac Cuvée XX Blanc 

• 

2020 

Côtes de Thongue, France 

The creamy hazelnut notes of oak 

become apparent on the first whiff. 

The palate then adds a subtle, 

nutty texture, a gentle body and a 

smooth mouthfeel. The finish is fresh 

and dry. 

domaine-bassac.com 

• 

Cave de Roquebrun Les Fiefs d’Aupenac 

Blanc 2020 


The nose is subtle but holds that wonderful 

aroma of freshly scored citrus zest. 

The palate is light but beautifully textured, 

offering a smooth mouthfeel and 

bright freshness. The finish is harmonious, 

lasting and dry. 


• 

89 

• 

Cuvée Pêcheur 2020 

Comté Tolosan, France 

A touch of chalkiness informs the subtle 

pear fruit on the nose. The palate has 

creaminess, chalkiness and freshness in 

equal measure and plays on its salty texture 

more than on fruit. This tells us that 

it is intended for food. The finish is lovely 

and fresh. 

no website 

• 

• 

Evocation Gaillac Perle 

2019 

Gaillac, France 

A shy nose gives nothing away apart from 

a slight glint of lemon. The palate is fresh 

and has some nettle savouriness, some 

lovely pepper, but the main impression 

remains as ripe, full lemon. The finish is 


vinovalie.com 

• 

The hilly landcapes of 

southern France are home 

to a sea of vines. 

PLACE 

CHÂTEAU DE LASCAUX 

LES PIERRES D’ARGENT 2016 

• 

Domaine Sainte Rose Le Marin 

Blanc 2017 


A shy hint of peach appears on the nose 

that does not give much more away. The 

palate comes in with freshness and 

warmth and a rounded, smooth texture. 

The finish is dry and fresh. 

sainterose.com 

• 

• 

Les Routes Côtes Catalanes Blanc 

2020 

France 

Candlewax and russet pear peel dominate 

the nose with their intensity. The 

palate is light and fresh, carrying some of 

those pear peel phenolics before finishing 


maisondalliance.com 

• 

• 

Chateau du Carrubier Cuvée de 

Zélie 2021 


A touch of lemon zest on the nose promises 

freshness. The palate, a subtle texture 

is reminiscent of citrus pith on a 

body that is light and bright and fresh. 

The finish is dry and smooth, still shining 

with that zesty lemon note. 

carrubier.fr 

• 

• 

Château du Trignon Côtes du 

Rhône Blanc 2021 

Côtes du Rhône, France 

The nose is shy and gives mere hints of 

tropical notions of mango. The palate is 

concentrated and holds surprising 

freshness. This is rich but mouth-watering, 

the finish is fresh and bold. 

famillequiot.com 

• 

BIO Château La Mascaronne Blanc 

• 

2020 


A very shy nose gives next to nothing 

away. The palate is equally reticent but 

presents a light, smooth body with lemony 

hints and subtle freshness. The finish 

is beautifully bright and appetising. 

chateau-lamascaronne.com •• 

88 

• 

Château d’Anglès Classique Blanc 

2021 


The slightest hint of peach and cream 

teases on the nose. The palate has a savoury 

touch, almost of soy sauce and a 

certain earthiness that is joined by subtle 

citrus. The finish is dry and harmonious. 

chateaudangles.com 

• 

More tasting notes 

online at 

falstaff.com 


falstaff 

177

tasting / SPECIALLY RECOMMENDED 

SPECIALLY 

RECOMMENDED 

The Falstaff wine editors in Austria, Germany, Switzerland, 

Italy and London taste more than 12,000 wines between 

them annually. Some of these wines come with a special 

recommendation. 

WORDS & TASTING NOTES FALSTAFF EDITORIAL TEAM 

Over the course of each year, 

the various Falstaff wine 

editors and their teams taste 

somewhere between 12,000 

and 15,000 wines for editorial 

features, the Falstaff Trophies, and for 

wine guides. Thousands of wines are tasted 

for the Austrian and German Annual 

Falstaff Wine Guides each year alone. 

Falstaff asked some of the participating 

wineries if they wanted their wine 

to be highlighted here – and these are the 

wines they put forward – with their own 

special recommendation and with 

Falstaff’s scores and tasting notes. Enjoy! 

Heni blam qui beriorepra nobitaq 

uibusandi commodi sequis iliquia conet 

es molorum fugiand aectia sumquos aut 

ea vellam ea cor as ipsam untori 

Photo: Photos: Shutterstock 

178 

falstaff 



falstaff 

179




red wine, dry 


• rosé 






94 

• 

Col del Forno Rive di Refrontolo 

Valdobbiadene DOCG Brut 

Andreola, Veneto, Italy 

Delicate notes of acacia and elderberry, 

linden blossom, quince, very discreet aroma. 

Juicy texture on the palate, pleasant 

mouthfeel, with medium weight and very 

fine mousse, then slightly salty on the finish, 

shows great drinking flow. 

andreola.eu 

• 

93 

• 

Vigna Ochera Rive di Rolle Valdobbiadene 

DOCG Dry 2020 

Andreola, Veneto, Italy 

On the nose pronounced white flower, 

lime and white rose, then quince and fresh 

butter. Very pleasant mouthfeel, juicy, 

clear, finely-integrated mousse, lively on 

the palate, balanced throughout with 

great fruit texture on the finish. 

andreola.eu 

• 

92 

• 

Blaufränkisch Eisenberg DAC 2019 

Batthyány, Burgenland, Austria 

Fine spice of cassis, dark forest fruit, mineral, 

underlaid with fresh orange zest. 

Juicy, elegant, red berry texture, ripe 

tannins, good freshness, lingers long. Harmonious 

and with ageing potential. 

weingut-batthyany.at • • 

93 

• 

Rive di Collalto Valdobbiadene 

Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Brut 

2020, Borgoluce, Veneto, Italy 

Expressive on the nose, with juicy citrus 

fruit, grapefruit, a hint of salt lemon, white 

stone fruit and elderflower blossom. On 

the palate juicy, with cool fruit and purity, a 

touch of minerality, with plenty of racy acidity, 

energy, beautiful example. 

borgoluce.it • • 


94 

• 

Zell Schwarzer Herrgott Riesling 

2019, Bremer, Pfalz, Germany 

Citrus-scented, balsamic, limestone notes, 

coriander seed, cardamom, complex and 

fresh. Vivid, rich palate, slightly phenolic, 

delicate acidity, a tense palate layered with 

aromatic terpenes; robust and profound. 

weingutbremer.de • • 

94 

• 

Randersacker Pfülben Riesling GG 

2020, Bürgerspital zum Heiligen Geist, 

Franken, Germany 

Wax, ripe nectarine, balsamic-lime-spicy 

undertones, vine peach on the nose. On the 

palate there is feisty drive, taut acidity, lots 

of body and a striking mineral character. 

Firm nerve and gripping extract give length. 

Great potential. 

buergerspital.de • • 


• •••• •• 

EUR 

91 

• 

1954 Primitivo 2019 

Cantine Paradiso, Puglia, Italy 

Intense, almost impenetrable purple 

colour. On the nose bottled cherries, elderberries, 

also cassis and fine spice, white 

chocolate. Very densely woven on the palate, 

with wonderful texture and ripe forest 

fruit flavours. Slightly grippy tannin gives 

structure and hold, very long finish. 

cantineparadiso.it 

• 


•• / GBP 51 – 100 and USD 61 – 110 above EUR / GBP 100 and USD 110 

••••• 

Photos: Shutterstock, Wineries

90 

• 

Bellalou 2020 

Batthyány, Burgenland, Austria 

Fresh meadow herbs, a little cassis, delicate 

white stone fruit, quince hints on the 

nose. Medium body, fine acidty structure, 

mineral, white stone fruit on the finish, 

salty aftertaste, versatile and fresh. 

weingut-batthyany.at 

• 

A wine tasting: 

It is always 

good to sample 

numerous wines 

to discover 

something new. 

92 

• 

Baldero Chianti Classico DOCG 2016 

Carus Vini, Toscana, Italy 

Rich ruby with a light garnet edge. Very intense 

nose, opens with earthy notes, some 

red beet, then lots of ripe plum. Dense and 

compact on the palate, unfolds with grippy 

tannin, ripe plum fruit, salty and good tension 

on the finish. 

carusvini.it • • 

91 

• 

Prosecco Treviso DOC Extra Dry 

Castello di Roncade, Veneto, Italy 

Brilliant greenish yellow with persistent 

mousse. A touch reductive initially on the 

nose, but opens to attractive citrus fruit. A 

palate balanced with fine ripe fruit expression, 

a well integrated mousse and satisfying 

finish. 

castellodironcade.com • • 

95 

• 

Grüner Veltliner Ried Achleiten 

Smaragd 2020, Domäne Wachau, 


Smoky-mineral nose with yellow orchard 

fruit, hints of Reine Claude plum and mango, 

tobacco spice, fresh orange zest. On 

the palate complex, juicy, fine white melon, 

fine structure, salty lemon finish, 

great ageing potential. 

domaene-wachau.at • • 

91 

• 

Selection Florian Löw Riesling trocken 

2020, Schloss Frankenberg, Franken, 

Germany 

Very subtle aroma. Hardly any primary fruit, 

some gentle vegetal notes, celery, and 

some caraway seeds. On the palate a very 

mellow, smooth mouthfeel, dry, walnut 

aromas, lovely density. Very enticing. 

schloss-frankenberg.de • • 


falstaff 

181


90 

• 

Louisenberg Weissburgunder 2020 

Schloss Frankenberg, Franken, 

Germany Savoury nuances of walnut, 

pear and aniseed pervade this delightful 

Pinot Blanc. Very elegant on the palate, 

extremely balanced, perfectly dry, and 

without sharp acidity. White-fleshed 

peach and almond tones. 

Schloss-frankenberg.de 

• 

91 

• 

Huia Blanc de Blancs 2017, Huia 

Vineyards, Marlborough, New Zealand 

A hint of reduction mixes with the slightest 

touch of vanilla on the nose. On the palate 

the vanilla notes are joined by creaminess 

and a mellowness that has citric highlights. 

A rounded, smooth but fresh 

sparkler with lovely length. 

huiavineyards.com • • 

88 

• 

Idyll Geelong Blanc de Blancs, Idyll 

Wine, Geelong, Australia 

The nose is rather shy and closed. The palate, 

likewise, seems reluctant to reveal 

too much aroma, but all this happens on a 

light, bright, and fresh body. The lively 

foam only underlines the freshness. The 

finish is dry and bright. 

idyllwineco.com.au • • 

93 

• 

Grüner Veltliner Reserve Steinzeit 

2019, Weingut Jordan, Weinviertel, 

Austria 

Medium yellow-green. Some passion fruit, 

a hint of yellow apple, delicate meadow 

herbs, underlaid with blossom honey. 

Juicy, elegant, fine acid structure, powerful 

pome fruit, mineral, lasting finish. 

weingut-jordan.at • • • 

95 

• 

Merlot Enya Valea 2019 

Josef Tesch, Burgenland, Austria 

Deep dark ruby, purple glints, faintly lighter 

at the rim. Subtle cherry tones, inviting 

plum nuances, some elegant savoury 

wood, and dark forest berries. Juicy, complex, 

close-knit, soft tobacco notions with 

well-integrated tannins, mineral touch. 

Lively finish, definite potential. 

tesch-wein.at • • • 


96 

• 

Titan 2019 


Deep dark ruby, opaque core, purple glints. 

Chocolaty nuances of ripe plums and figs, 

vanilla, black cherries and candied orange 

zest. Complex, juicy, fine blackberry fruit, 

well-integrated, supportive tannins, freshly 

structured, good length, mineral finish. 

Good ageing potential. 

tesch-wein.at • • • 

95 

• 

Blaufränkisch Patriot 2017 


Deep dark ruby, opaque core, purple glints. 

Attractive oak, hints of liquorice and cassis, 

delicate vanilla and chocolate tones, 

tangerine zest. Complex, elegant, dark 

fruit, mineral, fine tannins, salty finish, 

marked by a hint of chocolate and blackberries. 

93 

• 

V-Years Weissburgunder Riserva 

2015, Kellerei Meran, Alto Adige, Italy 

On the nose crisp tropical fruits, ripe pineapple, 

passion fruit, plus golden apple, 

white chocolate, beautiful bouquet. On 

the palate beautiful fullness and clear expression, 

with lots of golden fruit, opulent, 

but supported by dancing acidity, exotic, 

radiant and long. 

tesch-wein.at kellereimeran.it • • •• 

• • • 

Up to EUR / GBP 15 and USD 20 EUR / GBP 15 – 30 and USD 20 – 35 EUR / GBP 31 – 50 and USD 36 – 60 

• •••• •• EUR / GBP 51 – 100 and USD 61 – 110 above EUR / GBP 100 and USD 110 

••••• 

Photos: Wineries

97 

• 

Barolo DOCG Ravera 

Réva 2016, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy 

Bright ruby red colour. Expressive nose of 

juicy cherries and raspberries, plus blood 

orange and a hint of spice, complex and intense. 

Precise, clear, powerful and tightly 

woven on the palate, opens with salty tannin, 

lots of juice, moves with great finesse 

to a long, elegant finish. 

revawinery.com • • • • • 

94 

• 

Zeltingen Sonnenuhr Riesling 

trocken GG 2020 

Selbach-Oster, Mosel, Germany 

Opens with a shy nose where primary fruit 

does not play first fiddle, floral notes, 

herbs, slate spice, minerality, a hint of shoe 

polish. On the palate a lot of texture, gripping, 

feisty extract and enormous density, 

integrated acidity, mineral and long. 

selbach-oster.de • • • 

95 

• 

Zeltingen Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese 

2006, Selbach-Oster 

Mosel, Germany 

Beeswax and banana, candied fruit, dried 

apricot, some oyster shell, menthol, very 

spicy, marjoram, dried apricot. Very soft 

palate, intensely viscous, ripe acidity, rich 

sweetness, round and melting, very distinctive 

spice. Like nectar. 

selbach-oster.de • • • • 

91 

• 

Grüner Veltliner Ried Point 2020 

Steyrer, Traisental, Austria 

Light greenish yellow colour, silver reflections. 

Fresh orange zest, yellow tropical 

fruit, subtle herbal spice, hints of tangerine. 

Medium-bodied, freshly structured, 

lemony-mineral finish, discreet blossom 

honey on the aftertaste. 

weingut-steyrer.at 

• 

90 

• 

Riesling Ried Kufferner Rampl 2019 

Steyrer, Traisental, Austria 

Light yellow-green, silver reflections. Delicate 

nutty-herbal spice-backed yellow apple 

fruit, floral touch, mineral appeal. Juicy, 

white fruit nuances, piquant, fresh acid 

structure, mineral-lemon finish, versatile. 

weingut-steyrer.at 

• 

91 

• 

Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2021 

Tenuta Langasco, Piedmont, Italy 

Silver-yellow, persistent fine mousse. 

Distinct citrus fragrance, nuances of lemon 

and lime, a hint of white flowers, followed 

by chalkiness and toasted almonds. Balanced 

on the palate with crisp, sweet fruit. 

Superb harmony. 

tenutalangasco.it 

• 

92 

• 

Orangewine Onkel Heiner Seiner aus 

der Naturweinlinie 2019, Weinmanufaktur 

3 Zeilen, Franken, Germany 

Slightly cloudy yellow. A slightly tart, 

yeasty and nutty aroma, followed by 

yellow fruit and some turmeric. Aromas 

are carried by good acidity. Grip and a floral 

note accompany the very good finish. 

3-zeilen.de • • 

89 

• 

Königschaffhausen Hasenberg 

Grauer Burgunder trocken 2020, WZG 

Königschaffhausen-Kiechlinsbergen, 

Baden, Germany A ripe berry scent flows 

from the glass alongside some yeastiness, 

honeydew melon and blueberry. Dry and 

powerful on the palate, a firm acid backbone 

runs through the corpulent structure, 

needs food to show its mettle. 

kk-weine.de 

• 


falstaff 

183


90 

• 

Alte Reben Pommern Goldberg Riesling 

halbtrocken 2020, Kloster Ebernach, 

Mosel, Germany 

Yellow blossom and peach, with some 

honeyed sweetness, citrus fruit and slate 

spice. Full-bodied with sweet peach, texture 

and ripe acidity, marked by assertive 

minerality. Ripe phenolics and herbal notes 

complete the harmonious picture. 

weingut-ebernach.de • • 

93 

• 

Blaufränkisch Ried Osliper Steinberg 

2018, Stefan Zehetbauer, Leithaberg, 

Austria 

Delicate notes of tobacco, a hint of blackberries, 

black cherries, subtle wood spice, 

candied orange zest. Juicy, elegant, fine 

cherry fruit, ripe tannins, a hint of nougat, 

already approachable. 

zehetbauerwein.at • • 

Falstaff editors 

taste thousands 

of wines every 

year. 

94 

• 

Krone Kaaimansgat Blanc De Blancs 

2016, Krone, Tulbagh, South Africa 

An exquisite single vineyard wine, hints of 

vanilla and intense creaminess are superbly 

countered by a slender, yet profound 

palate. Very fine mousse amplifies the intense 

depth. This is all about precise fruit, 

well-measured creaminess and elegance. 

Bravo. 

kronecapclassique.co.za • • • 


92 

• 

Krone Rosé Vintage Cuvée Brut 


Just a hint of watermelon blends with the 

notion of rye bread on the nose. The touch 

of white pepper on that rye bread scent 

pulls right through to the palate. The body 

is elegant, rounded, rich and wonderfully 

peppery. Absolutely lovely, rounded, rich 

but fresh with saltiness on the finish. 

kronecapclassique.co.za • • 

91 

• 

Krone Borealis Vintage Cuvée Brut 


Just a hint of grassiness mingles with the 

brioche and lemon notes on the nose. The 

palate is really light, soft and smooth and 

comes with a salty edge of savouriness 

amongst the citrus fruit. This is rather 

mellow but has a vein of vivid, lively, brisk 

freshness and a gentle but lively mousse. 

kronecapclassique.co.za • • 

EUR •••• •• 

EUR 


• •• 

95 

• 

Soldati La Scolca D’Antan Riserva 

Brut Millesimato Metodo Classico 

V.S.Q. 2007, La Scolca, Piedmont, Italy 

On the nose fine spice, wood, vanilla and 

coconut, then caramel, honey, roasted hazelnuts. 

Multi-layered and exciting on the 

palate, spreads out beautifully, flows gently, 

fine pearls create a delicate texture, definitely 

enjoy in a Burgundy glass! 

lascolca.net • • • • 


/ GBP 51 – 100 and USD 61 – 110 above EUR / GBP 100 and USD 110 

••••• 

Photos: Shutterstock, Wineries

93 

• 

Laborie Blanc de Blancs 2015, 

Laborie Wines, South Africa 

A subtle note of rye bread blends in with 

lemon and crisp apple on the nose. The 

palate comes with lovely depth and real 

texture from autolysis that gives yeasty 

richness to the fine, lemony freshness of 

the wine. The body is slender and the finish 

is long and satisfying. 

laboriewines.co.za • • 

91 

• 

Laborie Brut Rosé NV 

Laborie Wines, South Africa 

A touch of redcurrant rises from the glass. 

The palate is equally delicate with redcurrant 

and lemon, alongside some hints of 

brioche. There is a lovely, delicate tartness 

about this, a beautiful lightness that turns 

this into a lovely, bright aperitif. 

laboriewines.co.za • • 

91 

• 

Steinbach Stich den Buben 

Weissburgunder trocken 2020, 

Nägelsförst, Baden, Germany 

Delicate and typically varietal on the nose. 

Aromas of fresh almond, pear, white 

peach and apricot skin. Very crisp acidity, 

light phenolics and well-integrated alcohol 

on the palate. Attractive finish. 

naegelsfoerst.de • • 

87 

• 

Perdeberg Cellar Old Vine Chenin 

Blanc 2019, Perdeberg Cellar 

Paarl, South Africa 

A touch of green fruit informs the fruit, almost 

with a hint of green pepper. The palate 

also carries some of that aroma but 

foams with freshness and brightness on a 

slender body. The finish is dry. 

perdeberg.co.za • • 

92 

• 

Mumm Marlborough Brut Prestige, 

Pernod Ricard, Marlborough, 

New Zealand 

A very fresh nose holds bright notes of 

green apple, lemon, butter biscuit and vanilla. 

The palate comes with a lovely, rounded 

dimension of autolysis. The mousse is 

fine and lively, the body is light and vivacious 

but smooth. Most appetising. 

pernod-ricard.com • • 

91 

• 

Dachsfilet Riesling trocken 2019, 

Prinz von Hessen, Rheingau, Germany 

Herbaceous notes, as well as spontaneous 

fermentation accents, hop blossom, apple 

peel, malt, and a touch of stone fruit. On 

the palate, it is grippy with targeted acidity 

and distinctive, yet elegant, phenolics; mineral 

edge. 

prinz-von-hessen.com • • 

92 

• 

Vinha Mãe 2015, Quinta de Chocapalha, 

Lisboa, Portugal 

Dark ruby, purple reflections, broad ochre 

rim. Dark forest fruit, a hint of liquorice, 

candied violets, delicate wood spice, dark 

nougat. Juicy, firm texture, very good 

freshness, dark cherries, salty minerality, 

a vivid wine with good ageing potential. 

chocapalha.pt • • 

94 

• 

Riesling Reserve Ried Steinhaus 

Rote Erde 2019, Rudolf Rabl 

Kamptal, Austria 

Floral nuances, delicate white peach fruit, 

a hint of mango and orange zest, fine blossom 

honey. Taut, elegant, fine yellow tropical 

fruit, mineral and racy acidity, white 

apple on the finish, a finessed and balanced 

food wine with ageing potential. 

weingut-rabl.at • • 


falstaff 

185

the dregs / DISCOVERY 

DISCOVERING & 

REDISCOVERING 

The joy of the new sometimes hides in things we think we know so well, 

all we need to do is to look with fresh eyes. 


Discovering 

means 

encountering 

something new, 

something that we have never 

seen, heard, felt or experienced before. 

Discovery often implies grandeur, like the 

discovery of continents or the Rosetta 

Stone that unlocked history and language. 

It also implies years of methodical research 

and diligence, like Marie Curie discovering 

polonium and radium. On a more personal 

and prosaic level, the loveliest discoveries 

are much less consequential for the world 

but immense to us: discovering the perfect 

table in the perfect café with the perfect 

Americano. Discovering that bar with that 

fizz and the understated but impeccable 

service. Finding just that dress, that pair of 

shoes, that fountain pen. Because these 

discoveries are so personal they bring such 

satisfaction and pleasure. 

Then there is rediscovering, seeing with 

fresh eyes what we have seen a hundred 

times before. Just one new facet can change 

a whole picture. Right now 

and right before our eyes we 

witness the extraordinary 

courage of ordinary people, we 

rediscover what bravery, what backbone 

means. For a while now, another extraordinary 

situation, the pandemic, forced us to 

rediscover what really matters to our 

wellbeing and happiness. Rediscovering 

means seeing things, ourselves and others 

in a new light. Sculptor Auguste Rodin 

said: “I invent nothing, I rediscover.” 

We are fortunate to have the opportunity 

of reappraisal. It is the same with art, or 

wine: we turn to them for comfort and 

they reward us with new impressions. You 

listen for the nth time to your favourite 

concerto when someone points out a 

particular note of an oboe or flute, setting 

a new accent that you always heard but 

never noticed. You open the 10th bottle in 

a case, and it is redolent with new fruit. 

If the heart is open the gain is ours. 


EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 

< 

Photo: provided 


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20 - 21 JUNE 

Join over 14,500 drinks industry 

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Falstaff Magazin International Nr. 1/2022

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