Jewellery World Magazine - April 2022

APRIL 2022
AUSTRALIA AND NEW
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
S&S
STONES& SILVER
STERLING SILVER JEWELLERY

Concept to Creation
YOUR JEWELLERY DESIGN BROUGHT TO LIFE
1300 886 108 | AUSTRALIA WIDE
palloys.com

Affection Diamonds
Suite 504, Level -5 250 Pitt Street Sydney NSW -2000
Call Us: 02 9264 2211 | Mobile: 0400 60 70 70
Email: affectiondiamonds@gmail.com
www.affectiondiamonds.com.au
YOUR ONE STOP SHOP FOR DIAMONDS
Buy Diamonds With Confidence * Diamond & Jewellery
Wholesaler * Gemstones Available on Order
Gia Certified Diamonds | Argyle Pinks | Natural Fancy Colour
Diamonds | Calibrated Small Diamonds | Old Cut, Single Cut
& Rose Cut Diamonds | Matching Pairs | Black & Salt &
Pepper Diamonds | Treated Colour Diamonds
Follow us on :

Jewellery World Magazine
ABN: 82 637 204 454
ISSN: 2207-6751
PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570
P: 0431 844 903
Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au
Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au
Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au
managing director
Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903
jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au
editor
editor@jewelleryworld.net.au
contributing writers
Kirsten Ehrlich Davies
Stefan Juengling
Cynthia Unninayer
Cheryl D Harty
art
design@jewelleryworld.net.au
advertising sales
sales@jewelleryworld.net.au
REGULARS
6 News
14 Palloy's Points
16 Trade Well with Rami Baron
18 JAA News
40 Birthstone - Emerald
42 Watches
48 New Products
50 Directory
FEATURES
20 Let's get personal
Bespoke and personalised jewellery. What makes
customisation so special?
28 Pearls – from consistency to contrast
All the latest trends in the world
of pearls.
20
28
42
32 Mikimoto and the great pearl disruption
You think lab grown diamonds are making a splash?
Mikimoto messed things up a hundred years ago.
DISCLAIMER:
This publication may not be reproduced
in whole or part without the written
permission of the Publisher.
Articles express the opinions of the
authors and are not necessarily those of the
Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or
service in this magazine does not indicate the
Publisher’s endorsement.
The Publisher excludes all liability for
loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false
or misleading statements that may appear
in this publication.
All information is copyright.
34 Russian diamonds
Russia's invasion of Ukraine has put Russian
diamonds on the nose. Can the industry live
without them?
46 The brooch as diplomatic tool
The late Madeleine Albright wore a diplomatic
arsenal on her shoulder.
AUSTRALIA AND NEW
APRIL 2022
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
S&S
STONES& SILVER
STERLING SILVER JEWELLERY
FRONT COVER
Stones and Silver
www.stonesandsilver.com.au
4
jewellery world - April 2022

All Silver is Rhodium Plated
All Silver is Rhodium Plated
• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, 2020 (Homebush)
• International • Sydney AGHA Jewellery Gift Fair -September - February 21-24, 12-14, 2020 (Homebush)
(Darling Harbour)
• International Jewellery Fair -September 12-14, 2020 (Darling Harbour)
TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU
TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU

News
Two-thirds of Tiffany staff left after takeover
Just over a year since the brand was acquired by LVMH,
only around one third of Tiffany’s original staff remain
with the company, said CEO Anthony Ledru in an interview
with WWD in March.
According to LinkedIn, Tiffany & Co has more than 13,000
employees. Two-thirds of these have moved on since
January 2021.
Ledru told WWD that Tiffany particularly looked for
workers in the “wider fashion industry,” whom he believed
could “bring a faster pace of thinking.”
Rare coin features Argyle pink diamonds
The Perth Mint is offering a limited-edition coin – the Jewelled Koi – that
highlights the exceptional beauty of Australia’s coveted Argyle pink diamonds.
Described as one of The Perth Mint’s most luxurious coins launched to date, the
Jewelled Koi is part of the group's Masterpieces Series and is the fifth annual
release from a range of diamond-studded coins, namely Jewelled Phoenix,
Dragon, Tiger, and Horse coins – all sought after by enthusiasts all over the
world.
This is also the first time that a Perth Mint coin features pavé set white
diamonds and ultra-rare Argyle Pink Diamonds. There are only eight of these
coins available at AU$262,800 each.
Jane King, acting CEO of The Perth Mint, expects the Jewelled Koi series to sell
out as interest in the organisation’s minted offerings continued to soar, adding
that sales of gold minted products in 2021 were the highest in a decade.
Neil Vance, The Perth Mint general manager, Minted Products, said the closure
of Rio Tinto’s Argyle diamond mine in 2020 further bolstered demand for pink
diamonds.
“We are living in a fast-moving world, and that’s an
important skill set for a lot of people coming from the
fashion world, where there are a lot of drops and you
have to react quickly,” he reportedly said. “That’s what
you need in hard luxury now.”
Alrosa closes US office
Russian diamond producer Alrosa has closed its USA office
after the resignation of Rebecca Foerester.
Rebecca Foerester, the Alrosa USA president until April this
year, resigned her position citing the geopolitical situation.
Only a day after her resignation, US President Joe Biden
banned Russia from importning rough or polished
diamonds into the United States in response to Russia’s
invasion of Ukraine.
Alrosa, the world’s leading diamond producer by volume,
is one-third owned by the Russian Federation.
“The Jewelled Koi is struck from 10oz of 99.99 per cent pure gold in proof
quality, with no less than 78 pink diamonds from the Argyle mine and 80 fine
white diamonds per unit – making these coins an incredibly attractive keepsake
for premium coin collectors,” said Vance.
According to the Perth Mint, the koi is widely considered to be a lucky omen for
marriage, fertility, prosperity and wealth, with just eight coins produced in the
series, as eight is the luckiest number in Chinese culture.
6
jewellery world - April 2022

News
India promotes gold and gem exports
India’s Union Minister for Commerce and Industry, Piyush
Goyal, has announced his goal to make the country’s gold
and gem industry self-reliant, through a focus on export
promotion.
Bulgari and the BAFTAs
High-end jewellery and watch brand Bulgari is now an official
sponsor of the British Academy of Film and Television Arts
(BAFTA) in time for this year’s award ceremony.
The brand has a long association with the film industry, with
stars from Ingrid Bergman to Lady Gaga wearing Bulgari
jewellery on-screen. Elizabeth Taylor wore Bulgari jewellery to
the 1967 BAFTAs.
As host of the 2022 BAFTAs in March, Australian actress Rebel
Wilson consolidated the new sponsorship deal by wearing
statement Bulgari earrings. While the stars at the event
showcased a wide range of luxury jewellery brands, Daisy
Ridley, Becky Hill and Ariana DeBose joined Wilson in wearing Bulgari.
Clash between luxury brands
Cartier has filed a complaint against fellow luxury
brand Tiffany & CO, alleging that Tiffany & Co has
attempted to steal trade information by luring
Cartier staff members away.
Goyal predicted that gem and jewellery exports from
India will reach USD 40 billion in the current financial year,
registering a growth of 6.5 percent, which would exceed
the pre-COVID levels. He believes that the government is
supporting the industry’s expansion and self-reliance by
reducing import duty on cut and polished diamonds from
7 percent to 5 percent, while extending the Emergency
Credit Line Guarantee Scheme (ECLGS) for MSMEs, which
make up 90 percent of the industry, until March 2023.
Jewellery found, owners still missing
Victoria Police found more than they bargained for when
they searched a suspected stolen car, expecting to find
drugs, but uncovering a mysterious cache of jewellery
with a street value of up to $100,000.
The loot included a diamond and aquamarine ring, a
ruby ring, and stud earrings stored in a Cartier box. The
mystery deepened when police realised that the jewels
did not match up with any reports of stolen jewellery.
Detective Senior Constable Shannon Foden said that the
police have worked hard to identify the legal owners but
they had “hit a bit of a brick wall.”
“I have no doubt they’re incredibly precious pieces of
jewellery to someone and we are very keen to reunite
them with their owners.”
V
One Cartier employee, Megan Marino was
working as a junior manager at Cartier until she
was offered a higher position at Tiffany & Co. In
an affidavit, Marino claimed that Tiffany & Co
were “more interested in hiring me as a source
of information than as a manager.”
She is not the only former employer claiming
to be lured away from Cartier to provide
information to Tiffany. The court case continues.
Anyone who recognises the jewellery or has information
about it is urged to contact Crime Stoppers on 1800 333
000.
8
jewellery world - April 2022

We know
Brilliance
LOOSE DIAMONDS
DIAMOND & COLOURED
STONE ENGAGEMENT RINGS
COLOURED GEMSTONES
WEDDING & DRESS RINGS
CAD DESIGN
Get to know us too

News
SAG Awards
The statement diamond necklace
was the unofficial dress code of the
28th Annual Screen Actors Guild (SAG)
when the stars returned to sparkle at
this year’s live event. Necklaces ranged
from vintage to ultra-modern.
Tiffany ambassador Lady Gaga wore a
Tiffany & Co Schlumberger Flowers and
Leaves necklace featuring
a floral arrangement of
diamonds set in 18K yellow gold and
platinum. Selma Gomez went with
something a little edgier than flowers,
wrapping a dazzling emerald-eyed serpent of
diamond pave from Bulgari around her neck. Ariana
DeBose, who won a SAG Award for playing Anita in
West Side Story wore a De Beers diamond necklace
featuring a fringe of pear-shaped diamonds. Reese
Witherspoon wore an intricate Art Deco style Cartier
diamond necklace with an enormous diamond
pendant. Kim Joo-ryoung surprised jewellery
watchers by wearing Swarovski’s Harmonia choker,
crafted from a row of large rectangular crystals set in
a fine mixed-metal setting giving the illusion that the
crystals float independently.
UK jewellery industry demonstrates support
for Ukraine
A UK jewellery designer has lashed out at media
suggestions that the jewellery industry is “profiteering”
from the Ukraine crisis. An article in the subscriber-only
platform the Telegraph was headlined “Jewellers accused
of profiteering from Ukraine war” while the article claims
that jewellers have taken advantage of rising gold prices to
pressure young couples into paying higher prices for rings.
Founder and designer of jewellery brand Kimjoux, Trang
Do, responded to the article by saying “This is utterly
unfair!” and demanded that the Telegraph balance the
story by reporting on how many members of the jewellery
industry are raising millions in donations in support of
Ukraine.
“Some people read this type of attention-grabbing headline
and assume all jewellers are like this,” Tran Do said. “at
least have the decency to say ‘some jewellers’, please!”
Members of the British jewellery trade organisation,
Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) have raised £41,500
towards their goal of £50,000 for Ukraine, through their
Red Cross fundraiser via JustGiving.
At the CMJ’s ruby-themed dinner and ball in March,
attendees stood to give a standing ovation to the people of
Ukraine.
Royal jewels
Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge used her jewellery to make a subtle tribute to a
non-Commonwealth country while attending a service at Westminster Abbey to
commemorate Commonwealth Day on March 14. She wore the same pair of sapphire and
diamond earrings with matching necklace that she had worn to meet Ukraine’s President
Volodymyr Zelensky and his wife Olena Zelensky at Buckingham Palace. The jewellery
set is believed to have previously belonged to her late mother in law, Diana, Princess of
Wales.
Also sparkling at the service, Princess Alexandra, the Queen’s cousin, wore an elegant blue
outfit with a diamond square brooch, pearl and diamond earrings and a pearl necklace.
While the Queen did not attend the Commonwealth Day service, she did have her own
glamorous moment at Windsor Castle the next day, when she presented her Gold Medal
for Poetry to Guyanese poet Grace Nichols.
The Queen wore a cream woollen dress, accessorised with a set of pearl necklaces, pearl
earrings and a gold brooch known as the Singapore Peranakan Diamond Jubilee Brooch.
The brooch was a gift from the President of Singapore for her diamond jubilee, and
features 60 diamonds set in a Bird of Paradise filigree design made of 18k gold.
10
jewellery world - April 2022

Emerald - In Stock & Online Now

News
Blackpink’s Rosé lands another campaign with Tiffany
K-pop star Rosé was first named a brand ambassador for Tiffany & Co. in
2021 and has now signed for another campaign for the brand’s HardWear
collection.
“I’ve worn Tiffany jewellery since I was in high school. To be a part of such
an iconic brand that has been a part of my life for a long time makes it
that much more special to me,” the singer said in a statement.
The new Tiffany HardWear styles will be available in July, with new full pave
diamond pieces that will drop later this year in November.
Sydney jewellery
auction saw strong
results
Smith & Singers's March
auction of Important Jewels,
Watches & Objects of Virtu
saw strong bidding in the
room, on the telephones and
online, resulting in a total of
$1,256,236, the highest since 2019.
Items of quality and allure attracted particularly keen
competition, with bidders vying for dazzling jewels of all
variety. Prominent results were achieved for gems by Cartier,
Bulgari and Paspaley, complemented by stunning diamond
and coloured gemstone pieces.
Among the notable results was the spectacular pair of
diamond earrings by Bulgari which sold for $51,545.
Time to buy Australian-made
Ph: (03) 9650 5955 Fax: (03) 6950 5977
Email: sales@millenniumchain.com.au
Web: www.millenniumchain.com.au
6th Floor, 313 Lt. Collins St.
Melbourne 3000 Victoria
Millennium Chain
Finished Top 5 in the category of
Best Selling Gold Jewellery Suppliers in
Australia and NZ, as voted by retailers.
millennium_chain

LET'S TALK
WEBINAR SERIES
D i a m o n d s
7pm AEST
Tuesday | April
5
Hear from a number of diamond industry experts as we talk all things diamonds. We'll
bring you local and international trading news - the current impact on supply chains,
through to mining and the pricing of rough, the sustainability to supply and demand. As well
as the growth of laboratory diamonds in the market, their current pricing and value,
understand how these two markets are performing internationally and what the Australian
jewellery industry can do to support local diamond traders and much more!
We will invite questions from registrants and welcome all members of the trade.
REGISTER TODAY | JAA.COM.AU/TALK
Proudly brought to you by the Jewellers Association of Australia, with the support of the Jewellery Industry Network

PALLOYS POINTS
Rebecca Hearth
Jeweller
Palloys
JOURNEY TO JEWELLERY:
REBECCA HEARTH
While the journey to becoming a jeweller has radically changed over hundreds of years, the
inherent passion and creativity associated with being a jeweller have transcended time and
context.
This month, we caught up with Rebecca, one
of Palloys’ bench jewellers, to further explore
how her path to becoming a jeweller reconciles
with her artistry and vision.
So, first, we’d love to know how
your career in jewellery came
about.
My journey began in 2015 when I started
doing some short, weekend courses in
jewellery, just as a hobby. As I was doing these,
I discovered a real love for the ‘hands-on’ style
of work and my own creative flair. I’m super
artistic, so I had always wanted to pursue
a career in something creative, so finding
jewellery as an outlet both creatively and
professionally was really thrilling.
Once I had settled on pursuing jewellery, I
enrolled in TAFE to complete a Certificate III
in Jewellery. TAFE gave me the tools to begin
my professional learning journey and was
instrumental in my understanding of the trade
and what fundamental skills are required. I
found that the more I studied and developed
my skills, the greater my passion for jewellery
became; I loved the rush of creating and
honing my skills.
After completing my Certificate III, I continued
to study a Diploma of Gemmology. I was
hoping to start some casual work in the
industry while I studied, which is where I came
across Palloys. I was initially hired as a caster
where I was spruing and de-spruing trees,
working with wax and resizing. Eventually, I
was approached to support the jewellers in
the finishing team, and after a few months, I
was taken on as a full-time jeweller, where I
started fully finishing pieces that came from
casting. Once I settled into this role, I felt like
being a jeweller is where I’m truly meant to
be.
Now as an established jeweller, how
would you describe your working
philosophy?
My philosophy for jewellery is centred around
understanding it as an art form and letting the
creation of a piece be an outlet for emotion
and creativity. As well as that, recognising
and honouring the sentimentality of making
jewellery is integral to how I approach
my work. I love to create my sentimental
14
jewellery world - April 2022

jewellery, to measure the changes in my life
through what I was creating at the time. I am
also incredibly passionate about being able to
create other people’s sentimental jewellery,
for example if they have a particular gem
they would like refitted into a new design
or the original piece. Loving the emotional
and sentimental aspects of jewellery was
the foundation of my pursuit of jewellery,
and it has since informed both my vision and
philosophy.
My most
important and
sentimental
piece would
have to be my
end-of-year
piece at TAFE.
My design for the piece was so complicated
that all my mentors advised against making
it and suggested I find alternative designs.
However, I persevered in making my original
design: a hairpin in the shape of a lily-ofthe-valley
flower that came apart into three
pieces with a variety of handset precious
stones. It was a very ambitious design, but I
was successful in creating it. I won the Best
Set Gem Award and Overall High Achievement
for TAFE which was a wonderful affirmation
of the skills I have developed and my innate
aptitude for jewellery making, and it helped
give me more confidence to pursue jewellery
professionally.
You mentioned some of your
mentors at TAFE. How important
has mentorship and having strong
role models been in your journey
to becoming a jeweller?
So, so important. I have been incredibly
fortunate in my journey to have had such
amazing and knowledgeable teachers,
mentors and colleagues that have been
paramount to the development of skills and
passion. At TAFE and now at Palloys, I’ve
had so many people willing to share their
techniques and experience with me. Some of
the people I work with not only have decadesworth
of experience in making jewellery,
but they are also more than willing to share
their knowledge with me and our colleagues.
It can be intimidating, working with such
experienced and skilled jewellers, but there
is such a great exchange of skills between
all the jewellers, which ultimately broadens
everyone’s abilities and makes it a really
positive learning environment.
And finally, do you have any advice
for any up-and-coming jewellers
who might be inspired by your
journey?
The best advice I can give is just give it a go.
By showing interest and actively participating
in the jewellery industry via TAFE, trade
fairs, showrooms and work experience and
introducing yourself in these settings, you’ll be
able to navigate your way into your own space
in the jewellery world.
Palloys’ is always amazed at the sheer talent
and skill that our jewellers show every day in
our Marrickville workshop. Rebecca’s journey
shows how passion, ambition and hard work
can lead to a successful career in jewellery. We
are thrilled to have her as a member of the
Palloys family.
April 2022 15

RECONNECTING IN DUBAI
I recently returned from a trip to Dubai where numerous diamond events were being held.
Those who know me, appreciate how much I used to travel prior to Covid. This was my first
major overseas trip in over two years, and wow what a trip.
I probably sound like a broken record, but the
value of travelling is incalculable. It’s crazy
how much can be gained by meeting and
reconnecting with colleagues from around the
world.
If you ever want to see how to put on a
conference, how to put on an event, how to
make your guests feel special, and how to
showcase your city to the nth degree, make
sure you go to an event, congress or a trade
show in Dubai.
We were incredibly fortunate to have Ahmed
Bin Sulayem, executive chairman of the
DMCC, as our gracious host. Ahmed is also the
president of the Dubai Diamond Exchange,
as well as a passionate coffee aficionado. He
takes great pleasure in bringing his personal
mini stove and coffee grinder to the table, and
prepares his favourite blend to share with you
as you chat.
Very few will ever appreciate the sheer
energy, determination, and breadth of
achievements that Ahmed and his team
are capable of. I was fortunate to witness it
firsthand and I don’t know how he has the
energy. Martin Leake, the special advisor for
precious stones of the DMCC, coordinated an
inspiring diamond conference, gala dinner,
world diamond council meeting, International
Diamond Manufacturers Association meeting,
a Diamond Jewellery Trade show and our
own World Federation of Diamond Bourses
Presidents meeting. Everything, and I mean
everything, went off like clockwork, was
beautifully presented and respectfully catered
to everyone’s needs. This doesn’t even
begin to touch on how interesting the panel
discussions were by key people in the industry
worldwide. A special shout out to Samer for
his amazing support during the events.
I don’t think I have previously explained
the role I play in the diamond community,
and I think now is a good time. Apart from
being the president of the Diamond Dealers
Club of Australia, I hold the position of
an executive on the board of the World
Federation of Diamond Bourses as well as
chairman of the Promotions Committee. It
was in the latter capacity that five years ago, I
proposed to the Board that we form a Young
Diamantaires group to communicate with the
next generation, understand what they want,
and ultimately create a platform for them to
communicate and a runway allowing them to
lead the industry. Although I was initially faced
with a bit of resistance, I was left to my own
devices, and I founded this group which today
numbers close to 500 around the world. It is a
vibrant and dynamic group, who have found a
voice in the diamond industry. See www.ydts.
org.
Bruce Cleaver, the CEO of DeBeers, provided
some interesting insights which I would like
to share. We all know what tremendous
growth we have seen in the diamond
industry recently, but the question is can it
be sustained and is there enough momentum
without government stimuluses?
Presidents of the WFDB, Dubai
The current research shows that consumers
believe and feel strongly about natural
diamonds. Interestingly, the female selfpurchase
is the biggest growth category.
The rough diamond that the 15ct intense vivid Blue
IF Diamond opposite was cut from.
There is a need for more collaborative
marketing. There was an enormous amount
discussion about the key drivers, and for me
the most interesting comments, which will
challenge each one of us to think about are as
follows:
What motivates someone to do something?
When I give a diamond to someone, what is
the question? Is it something that I want to
say to the person that I gave it to, or is it what
the diamond says about me?
These are very powerful questions. Although
I have written about this previously, the
wording by Bruce was so much more
poignant. A consumer is often pressured
(not everyone, and it’s all about choice and
personal belief systems) to give their partner a
diamond ring which, to some extent, reflects
their financial circumstance. You may disagree
and I’m sure you could give me examples to
back this up, however if a person is a lawyer
and is earning $250,000 a year, will they really
give their partner a 1/2ct diamond ring? I’ll
leave that to you.
I liked the statement that Bruce said - “brand is
a proxy for trust”.
Climate change, gender diversity and
sustainability – the world will view brands
against these three topics.
16
jewellery world - April 2022

DDCA NEWS
Rami Baron
President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia
rami@ddca.org.au
Here is an interesting little fact.
Did you know that the cost of recovering
a 1 carat diamond in mining operations is
subsidised with all the smaller diamonds that
are mined?
There is no doubt that the focus of this
conference was the clash between Lab grown
and Natural. One of the biggest retailers
in America quoted a number which was
unfathomable. They stated that they were
selling 50 lab grown to 1 natural. Perhaps a bit
of an exaggeration, but even if it was 5 to 1, it
tells the story.
So, the question is poised, is there enough
tangible differentiation between lab grown
and natural?
Young Diamantaires gala dinner.
According to De Beers there is. They are of
the view that as the natural is more costly, it is
more valuable.
Fundamentally this may make sense, but let’s
take a step back and look at the whole story,
the very essence of an engagement ring and
the symbolism it represents. The diamond
ring is just one component. The value is a
commitment of two people, and as beautiful
as the ring is (and hopefully the receiver will
get amazing compliments over the years),
I ask myself “will the perceived rarity of a
natural diamond transcend time?” or will it
be about the ring itself, the craftsmanship and
the design?
If that is the case, then just because the
price of lab grown will drop over time, will
it in fact lose its cache as the preference or
viable alternative for the centre stone of an
engagement ring? Lots to think about, huh?
Stephen Lussier, the executive vice president
of brands for De Beers, uses the watch story
and how his kids all covet his Rolex watches
as the perfect example. His kids know and
understand the value of these watches, but I
don’t believe it’s a fair comparison. I think the
top watch brands did what De Beers failed to
do: they didn’t stop building brand awareness
and appreciation for fine timepieces for a
decade, and they definitely didn’t go into the
business of manufacturing fake watches.
Beryl Raff, chair and CEO of Helzberg
Diamonds, stated very pointedly “it is not a
positive thing when the retailer has to speak
up for the category.” The retailer is not the
one that has to speak up for natural diamonds.
The retailer offers the consumer choices and
provides information with full transparency.
The consumer chooses what suits them. Using
the argument that a lab grown diamond is
worthless in the resale is a poor reason as to
why someone shouldn’t buy it.
I have seen the good that mining has provided
to communities in Africa, but this is just one
component of why someone may purchase
a natural diamond. The purchase of the
diamond engagement ring will often come
down to what that consumer sees on the
web or physically in front of them, the price
comparison and where the retailer can make
the most margin.
A very interesting story that has emerged in
our diamond world and reared its ugly head
is that of the theft of intellectual property.
When diamond manufacturers cut and polish
diamonds, we expect them to do so in an
A diamond priced at USD $50 million to be auctioned
by Sotheby’s was placed in my hands.
ethical manner. I’m not talking about where
the stones came from, I’m talking about the
very machines that they use to evaluate every
crystal before, during and after they are cut
and polished.
The company which we all know well, Sarine,
has spent tens of millions of dollars developing
the sophisticated technology to help the
industry maximise the yield and improve the
cutting and polishing diamonds worldwide. In
the last few years, several criminals in India,
with the direct involvement of some major
manufacturers of diamonds, hacked into
machines that they purchased from Sarine,
reversed engineered the software and set up
competition to them.
The matter is before the courts. One of
these companies is already employing 1,500
people so it tells you that this will not be
an easy battle to say the least. The largest
jewellery retail group in the world, Signet,
appreciated the seriousness of this matter to
the extent that they have sent a letter to all
their diamond suppliers to confirm in writing
that they are not party to utilising the theft of
Sarine’s intellectual property, and if they find
out that they are, they will cut them off as
suppliers. Imagine someone hacks into your
computer, steals all of your designs, all your
customer data, goes to your jewellers with
bags of money and looks to bribe them for all
the information about your business so they
can now blow you out of the water, or at least
attempt to. I had this happen to me to a lesser
extent. I can tell you, you get pretty pissed.
Let’s end on a positive note. The Young
Diamantaires were truly showcased during
this week, and that 70 attended from around
the world says a lot. We were incredibly spoilt,
with a special dinner put on generously by
the Dhamani family, we were invited for tours
through the wonderful World Expo highlighted
by Dubai, and in some cases, personally
escorted by none other than Ahmed himself.
In the 75 years that the WFDB has existed, it
was the first time that two youngsters, who
are part of the Young Diamantaires organising
committee, were invited to have two seats at
the executive table of the World Federation of
Diamond Bourses and see how meetings are
conducted with presidents from around the
world. This was truly a landmark occasion and
one which I am personally very proud of.
Trade well,,, Rami Baron.
April 2022 17

PRESIDENT'S
MESSAGE
Karen Denaro
Over 17-18 March 2022, I have had the pleasure of sitting amongst esteemed industry
professionals and peers from all over the globe, as a panellist for CIBJO (The World Jewellery
Confederation) assembly, a hybrid international event, held in conjunction with Vicenza Oro.
There is much discussion of the current
state of political affairs, sustainability, ethics,
integrity, intention, and alignment. It is a time
of reckoning for all of us. With this comes
the knowledge that nothing will ever go back
to the way it once was and the jewellery
industry, right across the supply chain, from
every corner of the world, has the golden
opportunity (pun intended), to use these
challenges to do things differently – good
simply is not good enough.
In an ever evolving and changing industry, the
last ten years in the international jewellery
industry are referred to as a pivotal decade.
Living our new normal no longer applies solely
to the pandemic. It also pertains to accepting
the fact that, globally, we are living through
constant crisis. Variable circumstances are
perpetually evolving. As I sit to write this, I
realise that there will be continued change by
the time this message is actualised in print.
The current conflict in Eastern Europe impacts
us all – as human beings and as business
owners alike, regardless of where we reside
and operate from in the world. Some of us
impacted on a far greater scale than others.
Belonging to a trade association has never
been more poignant to the Australian
jewellery industry.
In alignment with industry associations, both
locally and internationally, the Jewellers
Association of Australia (JAA) is responsible
to our members and the industry at large.
The JAA provides protection, guidance,
governance and integrity for every branch and
sector of the Australian jewellery industry,
right across our supply chain. We are here
to make a difference and to support you in
your business. We are up to date with the
latest international industry news and we will
continue to keep our members informed. The
JAA is here to assess, mitigate and eliminate
risk, ensuring in the protection of our local
industry.
As an association we support and govern
industry responsibilities, conduct, ethics and
our dealings with one another, which are of
paramount importance.
With more than 90 percent of their diamonds
mined and sold via state-owned Alrosa, Russia
is one of the worlds’ largest producers of
diamond rough. The current political crisis and
subsequent sanctions have seen a USD $79
billion dent to the global diamond industry.
This is likely to have significant ramifications
on how we trade in diamonds in Australia.
Lab grown diamond sales are currently skyrocketing
and rough is up approximately 30
percent, with further expected increases over
the coming weeks.
Diamond sales from China and India are at an
all-time high.
With a sharp decrease in raw goods,
particularly diamond rough, from Russia and
Russian owned companies, we need to look
at local industry suppliers and their sources
to ensure we provide responsible, ethical,
and informed sustained support, to be of the
greatest service to one another.
Adaptability and unity are key to how we
move forward, both within our individual
businesses and as an industry.
I strongly believe the current global challenges
provide an opportunity for us to look at how
we operate and to pivot our businesses to
operate differently and effectively. Change is
not always comfortable, however it necessary
for sustained growth and our industry is
certainly no exception.
The JAA hopes for a peaceful resolution.
18
jewellery world - April 2022

YOU ARE
MY
ROCK.
Becoming a member of the Jewellers
Association of Australia has a comprehensive
range of benefits.
We are here to help support, protect, guide
and grow your business, whilst being a voice
for the Australian Jewellery Industry.
The 2022 Member Prospectus details the
benefits available to members and we
welcome you to contact us with any questions
or feedback you may have about the JAA.
INSPIRING CONFIDENCE. SINCE 1931.
view the
MEMBER
BENEFITS
jaa.com.au/benefits

By Stefan Juengling
LET’S GET PERSONAL:
The modern custom-made and
personalised jewellery scene
Daniel Bentley
With changes in customer segments over the last decade, and to weather the
pandemic-induced economic storm, jewellery brands have been offering
custom-made and personalised jewellery to keep their prestige and engage
a larger audience.
Here with input from three prominent Australian jewellery brands and one
South African jewellery brand, we explore the state of, and trends within the
Australian personalised and custom-made jewellery industry.
For many modern jewellery consumers,
an item of jewellery isn’t just a fashion
accessory, but an extension of one’s own
personality. Thus, if one wants to showcase
their personality through their jewellery, the
ability to personalise and customise jewellery
becomes important. In the personalised and
custom-made jewellery industry, the piece’s
sophistication and the brand’s reputation
play fundamental roles for the consumer. Our
contributors understand this all too well.
Sophisticated brands, personalised
designs and custom creations
When asked about personalised and
customised jewellery’s importance to her
brand,founder of Sydney-based personalised
jewellery brand Belle Fever Sarah Saputra said
that her jewellery is more than just a design.
“Inscriptions, symbols, and images add a
personal touch,” she said.
“Our jewellery is created to tell the story
of the customer…the pieces we create are
carefully selected by each customer to
ensure they will love each one and hold that
sentimental value.”
Justin Blake is managing director of South
African personalised sterling silver brand
Silvery (with a registered Australian office and
division), and he said the personalised pieces
they offer can be either laser engraved or
hand stamped by their jewellers.
“We also offer a selection of items with
birthstones as well as complete custom jobs,”
he said.
“Through our customisation page customers
can let our jewellers know what they would
like by uploading images or written ideas.”
Silvery
He said depending on the customer’s budget,
design and
preference,
the piece
will be either
handcrafted, or
3D-printed and cast.
Queensland-based bespoke jeweller Daniel
Bentley who heads up his eponymous
jewellery brand said bespoke-designed
jewellery has a special place in his business,
because it allows a pure one-to-one creative
process directly with the client.
“It becomes truly personal as each design we
create is an expression of the client’s own
desires and our style,” he said.
“This is an important contrast to how we
design for our brand.”
He also spoke about Daniel Bentley’s bespoke
jewellery
process, which
he said takes
an old school
approach:
sketching while
talking about
the design with
Daniel Bentley
20
jewellery world - April 2022

One Sixteenth
the client and listening to their often-long list
of desires.
“From there, we have one or two follow up
consultations, before we commence work.
He said the most important attribute when
helping a client produce their perfect bespoke
piece of jewellery is trust.
One Sixteenth Designs is an ethical jewellery
brand from Cabarita, NSW, and founder/
jeweller Amy O’Shea said that her custom
work has been gaining huge traction for
her business over the past couple of years,
especially as she moves towards “closed loop
jewellery production.”
“This means I'm focussing on using jewellery
already in the loop, i.e. already mined and
in circulation rather than purging the earth
further for materials,” she said.
“My customers adore the low impact this has
on our planet and also that they are able to
continue to wear ‘Grandma's ring’ but in a
Silvery
more updated way.”
She said this method also helps keeps the
costs down.
Which personalised pieces are
proving popular?
As for the types of jewellery that are popular
among personalised jewellery consumers,
Justin said name necklaces have always been
a popular option, however Silvery’s couples
rings are quickly becoming the most popular
piece on their website.
“I think it’s because we offer each ring in every
ring size as we make each one to order,” he
said.
In the lead up to Mother’s Day, Belle Fever is
selling a lot of family tree pendants, bangles
and bracelets. Sarah said each design’s metal
tone, crystal type, image and shape can be
customised to match each customer’s taste.
At One Sixteenth Designs, Amy said she’s
noticing a move towards rings and pendants.
Weathering the pandemic and
coming out stronger
In her Master’s thesis “Personalization of
jewellery products: an added value or loss in
recognition for luxury brands?”, author Anna
Pozzobon discussed the way the pandemic
impacted the personal luxury goods industry,
which experienced a decline of -23 percent
over the past two years. She went on to
outline the need for businesses to adapt to
new customer
segments and
their needs in
order to ensure
the business’
long-term
survival.
Justin and his
team addressed
their customers’
needs by
analysing Google
Belle Fever
search trends, and quickly adapting the ranges
on offer at Silvery based on the findings.
“As we manufacture our own jewellery, we
hold very little inventory so it’s relatively easy
for us to create samples and have an idea to
market within one to two weeks,” he said.
Amy detailed the way she adapted to the
industry slump: by running more jewellery
workshops over the past two years.
“Groups of remarkable souls come to the
studio and we create rings, bangles, earrings
and necklaces together,” she said.
“I think this pandemic has made us all
recognise we've been caught on the treadmill
for so long and need connection and
experience over consumables.”
She said a jewellery workshop is a perfect mix
of all three.
As a result of the pandemic, Sarah said that
Belle Fever’s designs, customer journey,
marketing and operations had to be flexible
and pivot accordingly.
April 2022 21

Belle Fever
Personalised jewellery +
personalised experiences = lifelong
connections
Jewellery is an incredibly personal purchase,
and being given the ability to personalise a
piece or have it custom-made makes it even
more precious and sentimental. This is a view
that strongly resonated with Daniel.
“Jewellery doesn’t get more unique than a
piece that is specifically designed for a client;
it’s one of the only ways that anyone can
show off to the world a ring or necklace that
is theirs alone and tied to the person or event
that the piece of jewellery represents,
Daniel Bentley
22
jewellery world - April 2022
“Only jewellery can do that, as it has for
thousands of years.”
Silvery
In addition, jewellers have the ability to give
customers life-long experiences such that
buying jewellery from the brand turns into a
fond memory. Sarah said her customers have
shared how their shopping experience at Belle
Fever was unlike any other.
“There are a lot of online businesses that lack
that personal touch, and customers want to
still feel that personal touch even if it is not in
person,” she said.
“They also desire to be treated like individuals
and not as numbers, so they expect to be
assisted when and how they are able.”
To this end, she said Belle Fever customer
service representatives are always in constant
communication with their customers and
provide them with updates as needed.
Amy said there is always a beautiful
relationship between creator and customer in
the handmade realm, but when it happens in
a small town it becomes a magnificent union.
“My customers adore being able to come in
during the creative process and see how their
piece is made,” she said.

Daniel Bentley
“Sometimes they even
come in and make it
themselves!”
Justin said there are four primary
qualities at Silvery that wins them
repeat business: their communication,
speed, quality and range. Their high standard
of communication ensures that once
customers have placed their order, they will
get around five progress SMS texts and emails.
Their speedy service means that orders are
crafted between one to three days, and
delivered from South Africa to Australia within
6-11 working days (including crafting time).
Remarking on their quality, Justin said their
focus is on quality over profits.
“Most online stores will use plate between
0.8mm – 1mm, (but) we use 1.5 – 2mm plate
for name necklaces and bars.
“We solder all our jump rings closed, and
hand polish each piece.”
Finally, he said Silvery’s range means they
are able to accommodate/capture many
occasions in life.
…and if YOU want to get personal
Amy recommends those wanting to take the
leap into custom-made and personalised
jewellery should maintain their unique
authenticity by sticking to their style.
“You can get very bogged down if (you’re) only
creating custom jewellery for others,” she said.
“Make sure you say "yes" to the jobs you want
to and intersperse each custom job with your
own creations!”
Reflecting similar sentiments, Sarah
recommends those new to personalised
jewellery to find their niche and focus on
perfecting the customer’s journey for that
niche as much as possible.
“Being everything to everyone will make you
lose focus and
cause you to
be disorganised
and all over the
place,” she said.
Being
organised is
the burgeoning
custom-made
jeweller’s state
of play from
Justin’s point of
view, remarking
that businesses
who want to
break into this
market ought to
be ready for it.
“With
customisation
comes many
inquiries from
customers, so
you will find that
you will need to
employ more
customer service assistants,” he said.
One Sixteenth
Finally, Daniel’s advice is that businesses
should listen to their clients, guide and inspire
them.
“…and then design something that embraces
their ideas, and practice with hand drawing,”
he said.
Silvery
Silvery
Silvery
April 2022 23

ELLENDALE TO BE
MINING THIS YEAR
Burgundy Diamonds Mines is one step closer to re-opening the Ellendale diamond
mines in Western Australia’s Kimberley region.
Burgundy Diamond Mines has made its
second payment as part of an option
agreement it had signed to secure full
ownership of the mine from Gibb River
Diamonds in WA. A final payment is due in
2023. Burgundy bought the mine in March
2021 from Gibb River Diamonds for $6.7
million in cash, 16 million Burgundy shares
and 1.5 per cent revenue royalty.
The company is readying the mine to resume
operations after it had been moth-balled
by its previous owners. Burgundy will be
exploring the alluvial deposits at the Blina
and Ellendale locations and developing the
stockpiles and coarse rejects and remnant pit
material with plans to be fully operational by
the end of this year.
Past production at the Ellendale mine
produced 50 percent of the world’s fancy
yellow diamonds.
Burgundy believes there is significant
potential for the new Ellendale leases
to deliver a profitable diamond mining
operation, with the intention of becoming
Australia’s next diamond producer within
the next 24 months. The project ticks many
strategic boxes for Burgundy in terms of
location, high-end product and cash-flow
timeline.
With the Blina Alluvials fully permitted for
mining, this will be a priority target for
Burgundy, with plans for additional geological
assessment followed by targeted bulk
sampling and trial mining.
Resource
assessment
of the other
Ellendale
prospects
and former
mining
operations
is already
underway,
in addition
to the
fabrication
of a stateof-the-art
processing
plant expected to be up and running by the
year end.
Burgundy is currently operating its Perth
facilities at high capacity, cutting and polishing
third-party rough diamonds bought in 2021
and is pursuing options to make further
purchases over the remainder of 2022.
Burgundy Managing Director Peter
Ravenscroft is excited by the retail aspect of
the company’s operations.
“We are thrilled to be preparing the launch
of our ultra-luxury diamond brand in Paris in
July,” he said, “and will soon be announcing
24
jewellery world - April 2022

the engagement of a great creative agency to manage this process.”
French jeweller Bäumer Vendôme will be collaborating with Burgundy
on a branded collections using coloured diamonds from Ellendale, along
with other gems from third-party retailers.
“Building a new luxury brand and partnering with select jewellery
retailers offers a unique concept to the market [which] customers
will enjoy a true end-to-end experience while we can deliver the best
returns for our partners, shareholders and the communities in which we
operate,” added Ravenscroft.
Argyle closure and Russian aggression leaves a gap
The race to kickstart the Kimberley’s diamond industry heated up last
year following the closure of Australia’s
only operational diamond
mine at Argyle. Now, the
ongoing invasion of Ukraine
by Russia presents
another opportunity
for Australian diamond
miners as Russian
gems leave an
irresponsible flavour
in the mouths of
ethically minded
consumers.
Another miner in the
Kimberley region, Lucapa
Diamond Company, recently
identified three new prospective
Bäumer Vendôme
targets only 50 kilometres from
Ellendale. The exploratory team recovered more than a thousand
diamonds from a single drill hole on the site.
Coloured mined diamonds remain in high demand with the prices of
high-quality yellow stones increasing as much as 30 percent in the
recent years.

Proud to be the global pioneer of the
Green Bullion
concept
Ethical sourcing has become increasingly important for both the consumer and
associated industries concerned with responsible supply chain management.
For this reason, Oakley Mint is proud to provide its Green Bullion® product alternative,
with precious metals refined exclusively from recycled materials including distressed
jewellery products, dental gold and technology such as e-waste.
Our capability and product quality are quantified by our
NATA accreditation and an attention to detail that ensures
that our customers receive the highest quality and
purity bullion guaranteed.
Visit www.greenbullion.com or contact us at info@greenbullion.com to learn
more about our products and our passion for environmental sustainability.
“Environmentally Friendly Precious Metals”

Discernable by their unique hallmark and serial
number sequencing, every Green Bullion® product
is accompanied by a certificate, guaranteeing the
recycled origins of its content and its purity.
www.greenbullion.com
A division of the CPG Group of companies

By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies
PEARLS – FROM CONSISTENCY
TO CONTRAST
The classic string of perfectly matched pearls has always been the ultimate
fashion accessory. Yet today, there is a growing demand for baroque pearls of
all varieties due to their creative potential and individuality.
During the 20th century, a strand of
round, evenly matched pearls was the
ultimate symbol of elegance, with the
versatility to match any outfit and available
any price point. The simple yet elegant style
was popularized by iconic figures like Grace
Kelly, Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Onassis.
Today,the classic symmetry and consistency of
a perfectly matched string of pearls still retains
a place in the market, yet baroque pearls
are enjoying a new renaissance in response
to a more individualistic market. Jewellery
designers are working with baroque pearls
of all kinds, inspired by the contrast in shape
and colour – not just in comparison to classic
round pearls, but also in the contrast with
different metals and gemstones worked into a
design, to highlight the unique organic beauty
of each pearl.
“Designing
jewellery to suit
baroque pearls
can sometimes be
challenging but
also extremely
Ikecho
rewarding, when
the two elements blend harmoniously into
a statement piece of jewellery,” said Lindsay
Youd of Allure South Sea Pearls.
Cheryle of Stones and Silver says that while
pearl jewellery has always been timeless and
classic, it was time to “incorporate a modern
twist” to appeal to younger generations.
“The design of the piece really drives its
popularity whether it be a classic style or
a design that is currently on trend,” said
Cheryle.
The Perfection of Imperfection
A baroque pearl is defined as any pearl that
is not a perfect sphere. The word “baroque”
comes from the Portuguese word “barocco”
which means “imperfect”, and since the 17th
century, this word has been used to describe
any pearl that is not perfectly round. They can
be dented, pear-shaped, lumpy, coin-shaped
or tear drops, and can take on a wide range of
colours.
Devino
While most
contemporary baroque
pearls are a happy
accident of the cultured
pearl trade, natural baroque
pearls have been prized
since the Renaissance
era. From the 16th
century jewels and
enamel were used to
complement the pearl’s
natural shape,transforming
it into an animal, flower and
even a human figure, such as the 16th century
Swan Pendant or the 19th century Canning
Jewel which features a jewelled merman
brandishing a sword and shield. This design
strategy of using the pearl as a central feature
of an object is still used today, with examples
like Allure South Sea Pearl’s whimsical bumble
bee pendant, featuring a gold bee with a
pearl body; or Ikecho’s sterling silver pink
freshwater pearl necklace, featuring a delicate
diamond leaf balanced with a teardrop pearl.
The most illustrious natural tear-drop pearl is
the aptly named La Peregrina (The Wanderer)
which was passed around the royal families
of Spain, England, France and Russia for 400
years before being purchased in Geneva
by Elizabeth Taylor. Marie Antoinette had a
Ikecho
28
jewellery world - April 2022

Stones and Silver
Stones and Silver
diamond pendant featuring a tear-drop
pearl and another tear-drop pearl
was immortalised in Vermeer’s iconic
painting The Girl with a Pearl Earring.
The Hope Pearl, currently the fifth
largest pearl in the world, became
part of Henry Philip Hope’s legendary
jewellery collection in the early
1800s. It is an enormous pear-shaped
blister pearl of Asian provenance,
weighing 1800 grains or 90 grams, with
dimensions of 5.08 cm in length, and
a circumference ranging from 11.43
cm to 8.26 cm. The broader end of
the pearl has a greenish bronze sheen,
which fades to a silvery white lustre at
the narrow end.
Unique compatibility
Every pearl is a unique surprise – there is no
way of predicting what will emerge from
the oyster. Finding compatible pearls for
a piece of jewellery is always challenging,
although it can be more time-consuming
to gather enough round and evenlyshaped
perfect pearls for a strand than to
find inspiration for a design featuring a
series of baroque pearls. Irregularity and
LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY
Ikecho
Tel: (02) 9266 0636 | enquiries@ikecho.com.au
www.ikecho.com.au

contrast are the key
points of the design, and
from here, the designer
can create other points of
contrast – setting the pearl
against precious metals or other
gemstones, presenting a variation
of the classic pearl necklace or earrings
with pearls of irregular shape,using pearls
of different colours or creating a structural
contrast through an edgy modern setting.
Lindsay Youd, co-founder of Allure South Sea
Pearls says that clients are drawn to colour
and shape variations, such as the company’s
strands featuring a mixture of Tahitian, golden
and with South Sea pearls that are compatible
with lighter and darker coloured clothing.
“Sunbeam gold baroque earrings reflecting
Devino
the classic setting while working in harmony
with the freeform shape of the baroque pearl,
giving a modern edge to a classic design.”
Caroline Zingg of Devino says that while there
is still a strong market for classic styles, it is
still important to create bold and beautiful
pieces as a fresh and fun way to wear pearls.
“Devino matches pearls with complementary
colours and sizes and in different lengths to
appeal to different personalities and styles,”
Caroline said.
“The key is to maintain an excellent lustre to
help the pieces stand out.”
“There will always
be a demand for
the classic strand,
although we have
seen a client’s desire to
be able to buy wearable
pieces, items that can be
worn every day,” Lindsay said.
“Our Sea Grass Strand is an
example of this – mixing gold with the
pearls makes this a wearable modern piece
of high jewellery to elevate your day look and
make for a stunning evening statement piece.”
The designers at Allure South Sea Pearl are
committed to maintaining a classic element in
their modern designs, while staying attuned to
current customer demand.
Cheryle from Stones and Silver says the
current evolution of design means that pearl
jewellery has greater versatility for the wearer.
“Once upon a time, pearls were only worn for
special occasions, but now pearl jewellery has
evolved to a point where designs can be worn
during the day and then dressed up at night,
so they are such versatile pieces to have in
your own collection.”
Devino
Versatility in Variation
Lindsay Youd says that one of the advantages
of expanding the range of pearl designs is that
customers can now wear pearls more often at
different events.
Ikecho
30
jewellery world - April 2022

Devino
Keeping up with demand
Erica Miller of Ikecho says that baroque
and Keshi pearls are very much in demand
right now. Keshi pearls are a by-product of
the cultured pearl industry: the host oyster
rejects the implanted nucleus, and starts
secreting nacre to protect itself from the
foreign object. The result is a small bubblelike
indented pearl which is all nacre, with no
nucleus, and can be any shape from round,
oval, tear-drop or button, with a wide range
of colours available. Ikecho has a range of
keshi earrings available, with the variation
in natural shape contrasting beautifully with
the classic design. However, Keshi pearls are
Stones and Silver
currently quite rare so it is a challenge to keep up with demand.
Fortunately, there is no question that the traditional symmetrical
strand of perfectly round pearls, although the rarer baroque
variations will still have their place in the market.
DISCOVER THE
WORLD OF PEARLS
Stones and Silver
A: 1202/115 PITT STREET, SYDNEY NSW 2000
T: 02 9261 3555 | E: DEVINO@DEVINO.COM | W: DEVINO.COM

MIKIMOTO AND THE GREAT
PEARL DISRUPTION
Disruption is the word for our era. When we think of disruption in the jewellery
industry, most minds would probably turn to the mined vs lab grown diamonds
issue. But history shows us one of our industry’s biggest disruptions came over
a hundred years ago – at the hands of an unknown, amateur pearl farmer.
When Mikimoto Kokichi was born
in Toba, Japan, in 1858 there was
no such thing as a pearl farm. All
pearls were grown ‘naturally’ and harvested
by divers. Mikimoto’s town of Ise was a base
for pearl divers who unloaded their treasures
at the docks and fuelled his childhood
imagination. When Mikimoto’s father, an udon
shop owner, fell ill, young Kokichi was obliged
to leave school at the age of 13 and sell
vegetables to support his family.
By the age of 20 and witnessing the overharvesting
and degradation of the natural
pearl stocks, Mikimoto embarked on his life’s
greatest journey.
With demand for
pearls severely
outweighing supply
and aware of various
research effort
around the world,
Mikimoto saw a
golden opportunity.
His plan to ‘develop’
rather than allow nature to produce the
perfect pearl, was born. Natural Ise pearls
were Toba’s most famous local product, but
were becoming increasingly scarce due to
aggressive harvesting of the oyster beds. This
gave Mikimoto the idea to culture his own.
It took another ten
years before Mikimoto
was able to obtain a
loan to start his first
pearl oyster farm at Ago
Bay with his wife and
partner, Ume. Mikimoto
experimented with
inserting a mother
of pearl nucleus into
an oyster shell. He
took a trial-and-error
approach that was
considered strange by others in the industry
and early results were less than successful
but, after 13 years, repeated damage from
red algae, oyster-eating octopuses and
near bankruptcy, Mikimoto was finally able
to create a
hemispherical
cultured pearl.
But was
cultured real?
The public were
confused. Was it a
‘real’ pearl or not? To
encourage sales, Mikimoto
opened a jewellery boutique in Ginza –
equally outrageously the building was in the
western style – and he employed salespeople
to education the consumer on the nature
of cultured pearls. From the very beginning
the store’s interior was unusually modern
with electric fans in summer and heaters in
winter to encourage customers to linger. An
anteroom on the second floor for invited
guests was a precursor to today’s VIP rooms.
Other scientists and entrepreneurs,
particularly in Australia, were working on
culturing pearls at the time but Mikimoto
bought the patents from the work of other
32
jewellery world - April 2022

scientists. By the early 1900s he was able to
culture a spherical pearl. And things really
took off from there.
You have to picture the era: Up until now,
pearls were extremely rare. A natural pearl
was a pearl spontaneously – and only –
produced by nature. (Sound familiar?)
Remember The Great Gatsby? F. Scott
Fitzgerald wrote that Tom gave Daisy “a string
of pearls worth valued at three hundred and
fifty thousand dollars.” That was 1919 and
those were ‘natural’ pearls. In today’s money,
that was a $5 million necklace. And now
Mikimoto had a farm of obedient oysters that
produced the gems on demand? What was
the world coming to?!
Expert marketers
Mikimoto and
Ume were
also fabulous
marketers.
In 1910, a
traditional
Japanese
fan and
screen with Mikimoto pearls
was featured at the Anglo-Japanese Fair
in London. In 1927, Mikimoto met fellow
inventor, Thomas Edison, at his home in
New Jersey. After admiring Mikimoto’s work,
Edison remarked, “There are two things which
couldn’t be made in my laboratory – diamonds
and pearls.” (Should we tell him?)
“This isn’t a cultured pearl, it’s a real pearl,”
Edison went on. “It’s one of the wonders
of the world that you were able to culture
pearls. It is something which is supposed to
be biologically impossible!” Their meeting was
reported in the New York Times and Mikimoto
and his pearls became a household name
overnight.
His reach stretched even farther during the
1939 New York World’s Fair, which featured
the Philadelphia Liberty Bell studded with
12,250 pearls and 366 diamonds and was
nicknamed “the Million Dollar Bell”. The bell is
now on display at the Mikimoto Pearl Museum
in Japan.
The natural pearl
market had been
decimated. By
1935, there
were 350 pearl
farms in Japan
producing 10
million cultured
pearls annually.
In a frankly appalling stunt in 1932, Mikimoto
sent a message to other pearl dealers by
shovelling inferior pearls into a fire in front
of the Kobe Chamber of Commerce. Foreign
journalists reported this message around the
world. Mikimoto’s cultured pearls were more
beautiful, consistently round, easier to extract
and cheaper to produce. He had changed the
world.
Labels matter
The old guard put up a decent fight. They took
him to court and sued him for advertising his
pearls as ‘natural pearls.’ The lawsuit led to
the creation of the term ‘cultured pearl’ to
help differentiate his pearls from the other
dealer’s product.
Ironically, now, when someone asks “Are those
cultured pearls?” they are really asking, “Are
they real?” Originally, the term was meant to
denote Mikimoto pearls as not natural (and
thus not as prestigious) but the definition has
changed over time due to the overwhelming
number of fraudulent pearls on the market.
Mikimoto had to constantly fight allegations
that his pearls were only imitations of real
pearls, despite scientific reports to the
contrary. After World War II, he opened
stores in Paris, New York City, Chicago,
Boston, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Shanghai,
and Bombay, and was thus one of the first
Japanese brands to attain an international
presence and recognition.
Despite great fame and fortune during his
lifetime (Mikimoto died in September 1954),
he remained humble and unaffected. His
philosophy for general
well-being was ‘three
bowls of rice for
breakfast, two for lunch
and one for supper, and
to sleep well, together
with a sleeping stomach.’
He liked fresh seafood,
root vegetables and
never missed listening to
the news.
In the Mikimoto
Museum, on Pearl
Island, where the first ever cultured pearl was
found, is the original Mikimoto single strand
pearl necklace. Known as Taisho-ren or the
‘Boss’s Necklace’ it is made up of 49 large,
supremely lustrous, perfectly matched pearls,
the centre one being 14mm in diametre. All
were hand chosen by
Mikimoto himself over a
period of 10 years, and
it remains the template
for all classic Mikimoto
pearl strands.
The Mikimoto company
no longer farms pearls.
Having changed the
industry forever, they
now merely buy the best from pearl farmers
around the world.
April 2022 33

Alrosa
RUSSIAN DIAMONDS
Is the jewellery industry doing enough?
As Russia’s devastating war on Ukraine drags on, the question of Russian diamonds
becomes a legal and moral quandary for everyone in the supply chain.
Almost all Russian diamonds come from
Alrosa. The company produces the majority of
the world’s rough diamond and 90 percent of
Russia’s rough. It is responsible for 28 percent
of global supply. The miner is one-third owned
by the Russian Federation. Another third is
controlled by regional governments such as
the Russian republic of Yakutia where many of
its mines are located.
Alrosa’s corporate leadership has close ties
to the Kremlin. The company and its chief
executive, Sergei Ivanov, were personally
targeted by US sanctions. Ivanov’s father,
Sergei Borisovich Ivanov, is one of Russian
president Vladimir Putin’s closest allies and
was formerly a KGB colonel general, a Russian
minister of defence and a Putin chief of
staff. Alrosa is a major source of income for
its state-owned shareholder. The company
reported sales of $4.16 billion in 2021 with
Alrosa CEO Sergei Ivanov
a net profit of 91 billion rubles (AUD $1.2
billion).
Blood diamonds
And literally overnight, the Russian gems have
become conflict diamonds.
Christine Villegas,
director of the
Mines to Markets
program at Pact, a
development NGO,
says that Russian
diamonds do not
fit the narrowest
industry definition
Alrosa
of ‘conflict diamond’ and worries that some
players in governments and the industry will
continue to trade based on this ‘loophole’.
The Kimberley Process (KP) says the phrase
refers to diamonds which are used to fund
rebel groups — not, specifically, nations that
invade other sovereign nations — but they
clearly fit the spirit of the term, says Villegas.
“They’re funding an armed conflict against
a peaceful neighbour, by a state actor,” she
said. “These things take time to settle on new
definitions. But the silence is striking – and it’s
hard not to presume it’s because much of the
industry is hoping that this goes away or it’s
forgotten.”
Many major industry groups have not yet
issued statements on whether responsible
buyers should continue buying Russian
diamonds.
Sanctions
On 11 March, US president Joe Biden issued
an executive order restricting the import of
Russian diamonds into the US. A day later, a
clarification was issued. The ban was limited to
the US importation of Russian rough diamonds
and diamonds polished in Russia. The order
placed no restrictions on the US importation
of polished diamonds sourced from Russian
rough but polished outside Russia.
Key industry figures, such as Martin Rapaport,
founder of RapNet, believe this will do nothing
to halt the flow of Russian gems.
“The sanctions – unless they deepen – are
not going to affect the normal business,” he
said, in a presentation to the industry. This is
because the vast majority of Russian stones
are exported rough. Most will then progress
through the system to India, which cuts and
34
jewellery world - April 2022

S&S
STONES& SILVER
STERLING SILVER JEWELLERY
Ph: +61 3 9587 1215
stonesandsilver.com.au

polishes 90 percent of the world’s diamonds,
meaning polished diamonds can be imported
to the US as an Indian product, not a Russian
one.
Government officials in India have received
promises from Russia that the sanctions
will not affect the flow of rough. Colin Shah,
chairman of the Indian government’s Gem and
Jewellery Export Promotion Council, told the
India’s Economic Times that “Alrosa has assured
us that they are running their business as usual
... They will be fulfilling all their obligations to
their clients in any part of the world,” he said.
As for other governments around the world,
the EU and the G7 (US, UK, France, Canada,
Italy, Japan and Germany) have all indicated
that tougher sanctions would be imposed on
Russia, including the prohibition of jewellery
and diamonds.
Australia has also announced sanctions which
will affect Russian mining companies and the
dealings of 33 Russian oligarchs and prominent
businesses. The Australian ban focuses mainly
on fuel and energy products and makes no
mention of diamonds.
But will they be enough?
The various sanctions do not prevent Russia
from selling its diamonds. In fact, a report on
the Rapaport website confirmed that an Alrosa
auction took place in mid-March and, despite
the Russian banking system being excluded
from the international money transfer system
Swift, the diamonds were paid for via banks in
the United Arab Emirates and Italy.
The Russian state,
independently
of the company
Alrosa, has
an enormous
stockpile of
diamonds known
as the Gokhran.
Historically,
Russia has used
the Gokhran
to regulate the
market, buying up
excess and selling during shortages.
“They have, since the 1990s, been purchasing
diamonds in order to manage the pricing,”
says Dr Hans Merket, a conflict diamonds
researcher at Belgium institute IPIS.
The Russian government holds periodic
diamond auctions from the state stockpile with
six such auctions occurring in the first half of
2021. Industry watchers have estimated that
revenue from just one of those sales reached
$140 million.
“It’s a state secret, how much diamond is in
that stock,” Merket says. “If they would start
selling those diamonds, that could be an
important source of revenue.”
So, even sanctions targeted at Alrosa will do
little to regulate the flow of Russian stones.
Letting business and the market
decide
With governments declining to draw the legal
and moral lines against Russian diamonds,
the issue will be left to individual companies,
industry bodies to decide. And, perhaps,
pressure from the general public. But Alrosa
remains a key source of diamonds for many of
the world’s largest jewellers.
In the week after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine,
Alrosa deleted its list of customers — usually
proudly and prominently displayed — from its
website. Archived versions of the list show over
50 companies with long-term contracts with
Alrosa including US giants Signet Jewellers,
Tiffany & Co. as well as Chow Tai Fook, Chow
Sang Sang, KGK and many companies from
India, Belgium and Israel.
At time of writing, only Signet Jewellers had
issued a clear indication on its position on
Russian diamonds. In a memo to suppliers the
company stated that it had “halted all trade in
precious metals and diamonds that originate
from such sanctioned Russian sources, and
you are therefore requested to stop supplying
the same to Signet even though the country(s)
in which you operate may not have imposed
sanctions on Russian precious metals and
diamonds”.
Luxury jeweller Tiffany & Co. faces a moral
decision after it recently began disclosing the
country of origin for its engagement rings,
citing the importance of responsible sourcing.
Its manufacturing arm currently buys stones
36
jewellery world - April 2022

Images from Alrosa's Mirny mine, by Stephanov Slava
from five countries — Russia, Canada, South Africa, Namibia and
Botswana. In other words: Alrosa and De Beers. Tiffany & Co’s
parent company, LVMH, has closed its retail operations in Russia.
The brands are caught between a diamond and a hard place.
Russian gems are an integral part of their supply. They’ve all
invested heavily in customer ideals of environmental and social
responsibility. As the war continues, they will inevitably face
backlash if they make any attempt to white-wash Russian diamonds.
If they stay silent, the modern savvy consumer will see through that
too.
Just as consumers are
beginning to see the Russian
influence on energy prices
and fuel tariffs as good
reasons to invest more
heavily in renewables and
electric vehicles, there’s a
strong chance the Russian
conflict diamond issue will drive consumers more strongly toward
lab grown diamonds.
Villegas say the big industry players’ silence on the matter of Russian
diamonds could affect the industry in significant ways for years to
come.
“All the work that has been done over the years to try to turn the
industry reputation around, and show meaningful progress towards
diamonds that do
good [could] be
undermined,” she
told The Guardian.
“There’s been a
deafening silence.”
PASSION
COLOUR
EXPERIENCE
Suite 5, Level 1, 428 George Street SYDNEY NSW 2000
P +61 2 8065 8533 E info@sovereigngems.com
@sovereigngems

KGK Group Chairman awarded
Lifetime Achievement Award at
Jewellery World Awards
The Jewellery World Awards (JWA) awarded
KGK Group chair Navrattan Kothari with the
Jewellery World Awards' highest honour, the
Lifetime Achievement Award, for the year
2021 on 21 February in Dubai in the presence
of industry stalwarts.
Mr. Kothari has been working persistently in
the industry since the 1960s, not only to raise
the KGK Group but also to inspire excellence
in the jewellery and gemstone sector. He is
a pioneer in the sector, and his experience
and knowledge have made a significant
contribution.
The KGK Group was founded in Jaipur, India,
in 1905, with the aim of trading gemstones
between India and Burma. With a global
presence across 17 countries today, the group
has evolved into one of the most preferred
brands in the gems and jewellery realm. KGK
has emerged as one of the few conglomerates
covering the entire spectrum of mining,
sourcing, manufacturing, and distributing
coloured stones, diamonds, and jewellery for
over a century.
Mr. Kothari has been the driving force behind
the expansion of his family's gemstone trading
company into a worldwide conglomerate. KGK
Group is also actively engaged in numerous
philanthropic endeavours, assisting those in
need in the community and helping uplift
society. He is a firm believer in the power of
morals and always stands by the same.
He adapted the same as his way of life. Mr.
Kothari donates and contributes to social
causes as he believes that “It’s difficult to be
born as a human being. If you are not able
to help others, it’s a sheer wastage of life.”
He also started Bhagwan Mahaveer Cancer
Hospital and Research Centre in Jaipur in 1996
as it was his lifelong mission to help as many
people as possible.
The excitement doubled when, at the
same ceremony, KGK Group also received
Manufacturer of the Year Award for
its diamond operations. KGK’s growth
strategies in the diamond sector have always
emphasised inclusive growth, paving a success
path for many.
“We constantly evolved ourselves and our
business to
transform the
system in which
business itself
is conducted,”
said Mr Kothari.
“Receiving
recognition
from JWA will
surely be an
actuator to
move forward
with greater
determination
and
momentum, keeping the identified philosophy
and goals in view. It further encourages us to
remain conveners for progressive discussion
and collaborators for winning partnerships,
resulting in positive business as well as social
and environmental impact at scale.”
The award ceremony held at JGT Dubai
(Jewellery Gem Technology Dubai) was
followed by a gala dinner which was attended
by the leaders of the industry.
The KGK Group has operations and offices
active in Asia, Australia, North and South
America, Europe, and Africa. With years of
hard work and fore vision, it has achieved the
vertically integrated standing of mines-tobrands
in the gems and jewellery industry.
For him, giving back to society is dharma.
From left – Mr. David Bondi, senior vice president, Informa Markets; Mr. Navrattan Kothari, KGK Group;
Mr. Ahmed Sultan Bin Sulayem, executive chairman, DMCC
38
jewellery world - April 2022

According to legend and lore, the idea of a birthstone chart goes back to Biblical times and the
Breastplate of Aaron, which was set with twelve gemstones. A writer in the first century postulated
that these gems directly correlated with the twelve astrological signs of the Zodiac and that these
stones were beneficial to the health of the wearer. While the perception of the 12-stone birthstone
chart has changed over the centuries, it still implies “to each her stone.”
THE ENCHANTING EMERALD
The Birthstone of May
For more than four thousand years, the green
gem has fascinated humankind, from the emerald
adorned palace of Cleopatra to the fabled mines of
the Incas to the imaginary Emerald City of Oz.
By Cynthia Unninayar
Worn as talismans in ancient times, emerald has been
associated with love and new beginnings. The green
stone was also thought to confer riches and power, and
to predict the future. A member of the beryl family, the first known
emerald mines date back to 330 BCE in Egypt, although the gems
were used much earlier in the Middle East and South America.
Today, emeralds are found in many countries around the world, with
most production coming from Colombia, Zambia and Brazil, with
high-quality stones also found in Ethiopia, Pakistan, Afghanistan,
Madagascar, and Australia.
Perhaps the most famous emeralds come from Colombia and date
back to the times of the Incas, who treasured the green stones. Today,
the nation supplies about 20 to 25 percent of world production.
Because they are so prized, Colombian emeralds demand a premium,
and thus account for about 50 percent of world supply by value.
The main deposits are found in two areas in central Colombia, each
created during a different period in geological history. “Consequently,
gems from each zone exhibit different mineralization types and
slightly different colours,” explains Guillermo Galvis, President of the
Colombian Exporters Association.
A more recent source of fine emeralds is Zambia, which is today the
world’s largest producer. Although the stones were discovered in 1928
in the Kafubu area, they arrived on the world stage in a big way in
2008, when industrial miner Gemfields bought 75 percent of Kagem
Mining (the other 25 percent is owned by the Zambian government).
While the Kagem Mine is the largest operation, there are many smallscale
artisanal mines (ASM) in Zambia, which sell through a variety
of channels, including Virtu Gem, a not-for-profit platform that helps
artisanal miners to obtain fair prices for their gems mined not only in
Zambia, but also in Malawi and Kenya.
One of the more rare and
unusual emerald varieties is
the “Trapiche” emerald, found
almost exclusively in Colombia.
This 2.02-ct Trapiche is from
True Blue Opals and Gems.
(Photo: True Blue Opals
and Gems)
Above: Heart-shaped emerald from
Zambia by Hamid Bros.
Left: Oval cut 1.94-ct Zambian
emerald, 9.3 x 7.1 mm by Hamid
Bros. (Photos: Hamid Bros.)
Round 1.26-ct emerald from
Brazil by Sovereign Gems.
(Photo: Sovereign Gems)
While most facetted emeralds are destined to be used in jewellery,
others are carved into intricate designs, while still others are kept in
their natural mineral state, highly sought after by collectors.
40
jewellery world - April 2022

Emerald-cut Afghan emeralds
(0.16-ct and 0.17-ct) from
Sovereign Gems.
(Photo: Sovereign Gems)
“Although fine quality emerald is in a higher price range than many
other coloured gemstones,” says Grant Hamid, owner of Melbournebased
Hamid Bros Pty Ltd, “it is one of the most popular. Its vibrant
green colour is very attractive and suits many skin tones.” Hamid
sources mostly from Zambia because he finds these stones “to be very
consistent in quality, price and availability of various shapes and sizes,”
noting however that the finest quality is challenging to source from
anywhere.
Susie Robson, director of Sydney-based Sovereign Gems, agrees that
“emeralds have always been popular. I think people are attracted
to emeralds because of the glowing green that the trace
element of chromium provides.” She adds that while
“traditionally, the most desired emeralds have come
from Colombia, these days, we see good material
from Zambia with gems also coming from Brazil and
Afghanistan.”
Emerald-cut emerald from Zambia
weighing 3.05 cts by oagems.
(Photo: oagems)
Round emerald set with diamonds
in a white gold ring by True Blue
Opals and Gems.
(Photo: True Blue Opals and Gems)
Brendan McCreesh, of oagems, comments, “Emeralds
have a tremendous beauty, mystique and cultural history that is
deeply evocative.” He also notes a recent increase in demand for these
green gems, “especially 1.5-ct-plus emerald cuts.” Not only is emerald
May’s birthstone, he adds, but it is also the gem for the 20th and 35th
wedding anniversaries, “so it will always remain a top seller.” While
oagems sells mostly Zambian emeralds, the company also carries
stones from Colombia and Brazil. “Colombian emeralds command a
higher price—up to 30 percent—per carat than comparable quality
Zambian stones,” he explains, noting that, in recent years, “buyers
have learned that many Zambian stones are often indistinguishable
from their South American cousins. With the increase in world prices
for emeralds, there is little wonder why Zambian stones currently
dominate the Australian market.”
Among the many emerald decorations are
carvings such as this 7.26-ct carved flower from
oagems. (Photo: oagems)
Emeralds in their mineral state are highly sought after by collectors. Shown
here is a 756-ct mineral specimen from the Curlew Emerald Mine, Shaw
River District, East Pilbara Shire, Western Australia. Mined by Scott Smith, it
is offered for sale by True Blue Opals and Gems.
(Photo: True Blue Opals and Gems)
And, let’s not forget the beautiful emeralds from Australia.
“Emeralds were discovered in Australia in 1912 near Poona,”
explains Salma Patel, owner of Queensland-based True Blue Opals
and Gems, who deals in spectacular mineral specimens. “While
most production is from Poona, emerald deposits are also found
Emmaville in NSW and in Western Australia, namely in the Pilbara
region, south of Port Hedland, and at Menzies.”
With its symbolism and beauty, emerald is the perfect birthstone for
May, representing growth and rebirth, whether in its natural mineral
state, as a faceted gem, an evocative carving, or set into myriad
types of exquisite jewellery. ■
April 2022 41

AFFORDABLE LUXURY IGNITED
Female watchmaker launches mechanical watch
collection Loimu inspired by the Northern Lights
Galvin Watch Company’s second collection combines high-quality
Japanese Miyota movement with guilloché dials honouring the
blazing Aurelia Borealis in six magnificent colours
Galvin Watch Company (GWC), the first
female-founded micro watch company
in Australia, returned for its second
round of crowdfunding to launch GWC’s next
collection of meticulously crafted mechanical
watches with luminous detailing powered by
Japanese movement.
The Kickstarter campaign began on 5 March
2022 to bring the Loimu Collection to watch
enthusiasts at a price of AU$679 later this year
– with major discounts for early bird orders.
During the first day of the month-long
campaign, GWC raised over $42,000 with the
help of 110 backers around the world. The
Loimu Collection reached its funding goal in
six minutes.
Galvin Watch Company is a family-owned
business, managed by watchmaker Susan
Galvin in Sydney, Australia, who went from
a watchmaker to watch entrepreneur and
a mother of two in two years – all during
the pandemic and within a male dominated
sector. Her Finnish
heritage is intrinsic to
the brand, combining
Nordic minimalist
design with the
vividness of the
landscapes in which
she was raised.
Loimu: Carry the
blaze of the Northern Lights
Every carefully designed detail of the Loimu
Collection comes together to achieve a
beautifully versatile mechanical watch suited
for any occasion, inspired by one of nature’s
greatest masterpieces, Aurelia Borealis.
The Loimu Collection comes in six uniquely
glistening colours named after the spectrum
of colours the Northern Lights are famed for.
The guilloché pattern, an artistic craft dating
back to the 18th century, creates a vibrantly
engraved surface to make the Loimu dial come
alive.
Loimu watches come with an adjustable,
interchangeable stainless-steel bracelet. For
GWC fans who own the original Alku watch, its
leather straps are
compatible with
the Loimu range.
The case diameter
is 38mm, a subtle
size for both
genders. GWC
watches are not
gender specific,
designed to suit
everyone’s wrist.
For advanced
durability in most
conditions, Loimu
watches are
water-resistant
to a depth of 100
meters (10ATM)
with a screwed
down crown.
42
jewellery world - April 2022

Watchmaker’s promise:
Personal quality checks
with two-year warranty
Galvin Watch Company
offers a two-year
international warranty for
the Loimu Collection and
each watch is regulated
and quality control tested
by the founder.
As a professional
watchmaker with ten
years’ experience at
the world’s most prestigious watch brands,
Susan Galvin takes great pride in personally
guaranteeing the quality of every GWC watch.
“Having a watchmaker as the brand owner
cuts out the middle person between the
customer and potential repair work. I
perform all watch repairs for Australia and
the US myself. For the remaining countries,
any repairs are completed by reputable
watchmakers I have either worked or studied
with,” Galvin confirms.
“As I check every time piece personally before
sending it to the customer, the quality is
ensured from the start.”
Design excellence that doesn’t miss
a tick
A long career at prestigious watch companies
in the UK and Australia has given Susan Galvin
the expertise to understand how the fine
details of a mechanical watch culminate into a
unique timepiece.
“Years repairing and enhancing all types of
watch brands taught me how to combine
design with machinery to create a watch
that catches the eye but is comfortable
and durable enough for everyday use,” the
founder notes.
The combination of meticulous design with
affordable quality brought GWC global success
with the Alku Collection, with 261 backers
around the world raising more than $120,000
in total. Running a global watch company since
then has offered Susan Galvin many lessons to
bring into her new line.
“In most aspects the Loimu watches are more
complex than my first collection. I have chosen
more and bolder colours alongside intricate
design elements to create a unique collection
I am so thrilled to bring to watch enthusiasts
all over the world. Loimu feels like a true
evolution.
“Although I’ve introduced new features, such
as the guilloché finish and date window in the
dial, some aspects I’ve kept. I’m using Miyota’s
premium range of movement again, as I was
very pleased with how it has lasted the test of
time with next to zero under warranty repairs
since the launch of Alku in 2020.
“The ‘Loimu’ name translates to ‘blaze’ in
Finnish, paying homage to my heritage. My
childhood was spent in Northern Finland,
world-famous for its displays of remarkable
colour in its night skies. Being away from
home during the pandemic made me miss the
uniquely beautiful and bare nature of Finland,
something I wanted to bring into my next
watch design.”
April 2022 43

THE PROSPEX SPEEDTIMER
Showcasing the very best of Seiko’s chronograph
watchmaking
In recognition of Seiko’s support to World Athletics, the name Seiko Prospex will be
displayed on the perimeter boards at the World Athletics Championships in July.
Seiko’s tradition as a pioneer in sports timing began in the 1960’s
when the company introduced to the world’s sporting stage
a range of timing devices that set a new global standard of
precision. This tradition has continued and, since 1985, Seiko has been
the timekeeper of choice of World Athletics.
In 2022, for the 17th consecutive time,
Seiko will deliver its state-of-the-art
timing services to the World Athletics
Championships which will take place in
Eugene, Oregon, the spiritual home of
the sport in the USA. This new Prospex
Speedtimer Limited Edition Chronograph
celebrates the sporting heritage of
both Seiko and this hallowed venue
and honours the performances of the
approximately 1,800 athletes who will
take part in the championships.
The new Speedtimer chronograph will be available as a limited edition
of 400 from June 2022 at the Seiko Boutiques and selected retail
partners worldwide.
History, heritage and high precision
Just as Seiko’s 1960’s suite of sports timers brought important
innovation to the global sports arena, so the creation of the Seiko
Speedtimer in 1969 was a crucial landmark in the history of the
chronograph. Thanks to its vertical clutch and column wheel, it made
the measurement of elapsed time more precise and error-free than
ever before.
Hand assembled by Seiko’s skilled watchmakers, this new Speedtimer
is powered by Calibre 8R46, which, like the Calibre 6139 used in the
original 1969 Speedtimer, incorporates vertical clutch and column
wheel mechanisms to ensure the highest possible levels of precision
and durability. The escapement is light-weight and strong, thanks
to the use of MEMS technology which enhances the stability of the
watch’s precision. The pushers are prominent and have a wide and flat
upper surface area to facilitate accurate operability. With the push of
the reset button, the hands return back to zero instantly and in perfect
synchronisation, ready for the next race.
Designed to celebrate sport at the highest
international level
Every detail of the new Speedtimer reflects the high performance and
reliability of Seiko’s sports timekeeping and captures the spirit of World
Athletics. The sand patterned dial evokes the texture of the running
track and the chronograph second hand as
well as the 30-minute counter at 9 o'clock
are in yellow, the colour of all Seiko’s timing
and measurement devices. The second hand
is gently curved down towards the markers
and its tip extends right to the edge of the
dial so that the elapsed time can be
read accurately at a glance. The hour
and minute hands are generously
coated with Lumibrite to enhance
readability in the dark.
The hands and strap stitching
echo the yellow of Seiko’s timing
equipment and the back of the
watch features the event emblem.
The watch is presented on a stainless steel bracelet that is specially
designed and constructed for this series. Its thickness and weight
combined with the low centre of gravity of the case ensure stability
and a high level of comfort on the wrist. If the wearer chooses, the
bracelet can be replaced with the black leather strap that is also
included and whose stitching is designed to increase the durability of
the strap.
44
jewellery world - April 2022

ADINA CREATES
2022 RIDEWEST
BESPOKE WATCH
Over the last 12 years, RideWest has raised
over $1,400,000 for the Royal Flying Doctor
Service for mental health support programs for
regional Queenslanders.
This year Adina Watches celebrates their
inaugural involvement in the 2022
RideWest Charity’s event by creating
an extremely limited edition of 100 bespoke
watches. For each watch sold, Adina Watches
will donate $100 to the RFDS, to support their
ongoing valuable work in the Wellbeing Out
West program.
Adina’s involvement runs deeper than just
making a watch. Their general manager, Grant
Menzies, is putting on the lycra to complete
the eight day, gruelling 1311 kilometres from
Brisbane to Longreach. Grant has been a keen
bike rider since his late teens and has taken
on many cycling challenges. Either alone or
with his family (known as Cycling Menzies),
Grant has cycled through over 20 countries
around the world. Cycling Menzies carry
everything with them as they pedal. Grant is
the first to admit cycling the world with kids is
a little bit crazy – but hugely rewarding.
Grant says the motivation to tackle a journey
across a country in this fashion comes in part
from the incredible scenery and in part from
always enjoying the physicality of the day’s
ride. “There’s also the feeling of achievement
on reaching the daily goal no matter what
Mother Nature has served up. And, of course,
the obvious euphoria on reaching the overall
destination at the end of a trip.
“For the most part however, it is the ability to
immerse oneself into a country and enjoy all
its subtle nuances in its people, food, language
and culture that are so often missed by the
regular tourist. On a bicycle you are forced to
stop regularly for food, water, directions, even
a rest – all opening the opportunity to further
interact with a country and its people.”
However, the motivation for something like
RideWest is very different. It is not about the
people doing it, it is about the cause. When a
group of motivated individuals come together
they can make a huge impact. Each of the
riders, Grant included, will rely upon the
generosity of many.
Every donation, no matter the amount, adds
up.
Grant hopes his riding for charity will inspire
his children to embrace what a selfless act
charity is and create a legacy of kindness.
Come April, 30 riders will RideWest. Please get
behind them.
www.adinawatches.com.au
www.ridewest.com.au
Sponsor Grant’s ride at ride-west.raisely.com/
grant-menzies
April 2022 45

THE BROOCH AS
DIPLOMATIC TOOL
Madeleine Albright, the first female US Secretary of State, was famed for her fierce and
uncompromising negotiating skill, her love of brooches and for combining the two. She
passed away in late March aged 84.
Albright ran the US Department of State from
1996 to 2001. Just like Queen Elizabeth, who
has a fondness for choosing her jewellery
to make a political point, Albright wore her
brooches as “diplomatic tools”.
She once told a GIA symposium that she
owned hundreds of them and that she
preferred to call them “her pins.”
It began in 1997 when, as US Ambassador
to the United Nations, Albright was highly
critical of Saddam Hussein. Hussein’s poetin-residence
called her “an unparalleled
serpent.” At her next encounter with Iraqi
officials and with every meeting thereafter,
Albright wore a snake brooch, even though,
as she explained at the time, she did not like
snakes. After Hussein fell, she wore a snake
brooch with a dagger through it.
Vladimir Putin confided to Bill Clinton that
Russian diplomats routinely checked to see
which brooch Albright was wearing. On the
first day of difficult discussions involving
nuclear arms, Foreign Minister Igor Ivanov
looked at her arrow-like pin for the day and
inquired, “Is that one of your interceptor
missiles?” She replied, “Yes, and as you can
see, we know how to
make them very small.
So you’d better be
ready to negotiate.”
During a meeting
about the Middle East,
she wore a dove pin
given to her by Leah
Rabin, the widow of
Israeli Prime Minister
Yitzhak Rabin, who was
assassinated in 1995.
After Cuban fighter pilots shot down two
unarmed civilian aircraft, Albright wore a blue
bird pin with its head pointing down, a symbol
of mourning for the four Cuban-Americans
who were killed.
Albright chose her jewellery as a reflection of
her mood, and readily admitted most of her
pieces were costume jewellery.
“I have
bought
jewellery
everywhere,”
she said,
speaking
to the
Smithsonian
Institution
which
arranged
an exhibit of her pins. “On good days, I wore
flowers and butterflies and balloons, and on
bad days, all sorts of insects and carnivorous
animals. When people said, on the [United
Nations] Security Council, ‘What are we going
to do today?’ I said, ‘Read my pins.’ ”
As she matured and pins became part of
her diplomatic persona, Albright grew to
like larger and bolder, even crazier, pieces.
Diplomats from around the world gifted her
with brooches to celebrate their negotiations.
As a longtime fan of Star Trek, Albright had
space themed pins and brooches that she said
signified hope. As a jazz fan, she had enough
musical instrument pins to assemble a jazz
ensemble on her shoulder.
She became so
renowned for
her brooches,
she wrote a
book entitled
Read My Pins.
Albright
received the
Presidential
Medal of
Freedom, America’s highest civilian honour,
from President Barack Obama on May 29,
2012. She served as the US’s permanent
representative to the United Nations from
1993 to 1997. Prior to 1992 was a member
of president Jimmy Carter’s National Security
Council and White House staff. In 2021 she
was appointed Chair of the Defence Policy
Board, a group tasked with providing the
Secretary of Defence with independent,
informed advice and opinion concerning
matters of defence policy.
46
jewellery world - April 2022

Calling all Retailers
Calling all Retailers
Calling all Retailers

NEW PRODUCTS
Ellani Collections | +61 2 9899 1525
Another beautiful addition from the new Ellani Collections
AW22 release.
www.ellanicollections.com.au
Bianc | +61 413 872 810
Bianc introduces some beautiful new additions to the Sirène
Collection, featuring contemporary chokers and bold baroque pearls.
All pearls are freshwater. These stunning pieces range from
RRP$99-$359.
info@bianc.com.au | @bianc_jewellery | www.bianc.com.au
Jewellery Centre | +61 7 3221 3838
Sterling silver long oval freshwater cultured pearl with 4-claw 5mm
natural stone earwires
Available in 3 colours:
Natural Amethyst
White CZ
Natural Blue Topaz
www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com
Ellendale Diamonds Australia | Desert Rose
Jewellery | +61 8 6180 1562
Be seduced by the charms of this delightful solitaire ring in 18K
white/rose gold. Featuring a round diamond D SI1 0.50ct and
6 round Argyle pink diamonds 6/7PP SIAV 0.087ct. 16 tapering
round diamonds G+ SI 0.21 ct.
www.ellendalediamonds.com.au
48
jewellery world - April 2022

Stones and Silver | +61 3 9587 1215
New .925 sterling silver unisex ID bracelest featuring
a curb chain.
Available in a 21cm bracelet with the engraving plate
6mm x 38mm or the larger size of 8mm x 40mm.
stonesandsilver.com.au
Ellendale Diamonds Australia | Desert Rose
Jewellery | +61 8 6180 1562
Anscintillating grain set double halo ring in 18K white/rose
gold. Featuring a round diamond D SI1 0.50ct. 24 round
Argyle pink diamonds 6/7 PP SIAV 0.24ct. A secondary halo
of 16 round diamonds G+ SI 0.16ct and shoulders set with 12
tapering round diamonds G+ SI 0.24ct.
www.ellendalediamonds.com.au
Zahar | +61 413 872 810
Introducing the Sienna Collection.
This new collection features edgy new designs, elegantly
encrusted with pavè stones, making for a truly luxurious aesthetic.
The collection range between RRP$69-$89. Featuring CZ stones.
Everything is available now and ready for order
info@zahar.com.au
@zahar.collection
www.zahar.com.au
Allucia | +61 (0) 408 598 909
Rhodium plated 925 sterling silver set with natural lemon quartz.
Also available with natural rose quartz, rainbow moonstone,
amethyst and green amethyst.
View our range at www.alluciajewellery.com.au
info@allucia.com.au
April 2022 49

chain
services
services
AUSTRALIAN
JEWELLERY TOOLS
WHOLESALER
SPECIALISING IN QUALITY
JEWELLERY TOOLS & EQUIPMENT
WITH EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE
Chris O’Neill
Piecemaker
2015 YJG Bench Challenge
Hand Engraving Champion.
Also specialising in quality
Handmakes, Repairs and
Antique restorations in the
Sydney CBD.
0405 689 834
MILN & CO. Pty Ltd
Ph: 02 4655 7707 M: 0412 702 834
E:stuart.miln@milnco.com.au
Lancier Watch Bands - Leather, metal, sports.
Watchglasses. Seals. Batteries. Quartz Movements.
Pins/tools. Jewellery findings. J C Hurst Bangles.
Fischer Barometers and Tide Clocks
for sale
PO Box 112
Toronto NSW 2283
P: 02 9380 4742 ∙ F: 02 8580 6168
E: sales@adelaimports.com
Adela Imports offer over 180
designs of sterling silver chain,
with up to 20 lengths available
in each from stock.
Also offering a range of
uniquely designed silver
jewellery.
Catalogue available.
www.adelaimports.com
(07) 3876 7481
sales@labanda.com.au
FAX: (07) 3368 3100
ADELAIDE (08) 7221 2202
MELBOURNE (03) 9038 8545
PERTH (08) 6363 5517
SYDNEY (02) 8004 1626
www.labanda.com.au
diamonds and coloured stones
Glues
for sale
Retail Jewellery Business for Sale
Established 35 years ago in
busy Gold Coast street location.
Includes retail fit out, fully
equipped jewellery, valuation and
watchmaking workshops. Would
suit a manufacturing jeweller
specialising in design and makes
and/or watchmaker.
Owners seeking to retire
$75,000 plus stock at cost.
Contact Norm on 0450 703 325.
Fantastic Sea Change Opportunity
Jewellery and Giftware Business in Nelson Bay, NSW
Established 21 years ago in coastal area of Port Stephens.
Only 2.5 hours drive north of Sydney. Only one other manufacturing competitor.
Swim software for POS and Stock management, including price tickets. Retail has large
Chubb safe and alarm systems in both locations. Great retail location in Main Street and
workshop located separately 85 meters away in arcade.
Low rent $42K annual for both shops. Both leases negotiable. Large marketable client list.
W.I.W.O $450,000 ONO [Current stock $178K at cost ($501K retail), fittings and equipment
$61K]. Workshop includes display windows, 2 x work benches, Ratner safe and office
fittings only, not tools. Take without stock at $275,000.
Contact Roger 0414 821 931
Relaxing ...
Modern dating: Buy her jewellery,
ADVERTISE HERE
The classifieds section is an excellent place for suppliers and
manufacturers to advertise products and services in a longrunning,
low cost way.
All size ads are available and may include product
photos. Visit our website to download our media
for prices.
www.jewelleryworld.net.au
pack
and take her someplace expensive.

Calling all Suppliers
Calling all Suppliers
Calling all Suppliers

SPECIALISING IN ITALIAN MADE
TENNIS MOUNTS AND GOLD CHAINS