Jeweller - April 2022

Diamond disruption: How the Russia-Ukraine conflict is changing global trade High time for change: Where to for watch brands after Baselworld? Darkness & light: Uncover the mysteries of black and white gemstones

Diamond disruption: How the Russia-Ukraine conflict is changing global trade
High time for change: Where to for watch brands after Baselworld?
Darkness & light: Uncover the mysteries of black and white gemstones


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APRIL <strong>2022</strong><br />

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AUGUST 27 – 29, <strong>2022</strong><br />

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APRIL <strong>2022</strong><br />

Contents<br />

This Month<br />

Industry Facets<br />

11 Editorial<br />

12 Upfront<br />

14 News<br />

30 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Showcase<br />

26<br />

29<br />

64<br />

66<br />

10 YEARS AGO<br />

Time Machine: <strong>April</strong> 2012<br />


Freshwater pearls<br />

MY BENCH<br />

Mario Orlando<br />


Renata Bernard<br />


Rough debate<br />

4Following the invasion of Ukraine, the West<br />

has heaped economic sanctions on Russia and<br />

as a result, the diamond trade has been thrown<br />

a unique challenge. ROBERT BOUQUET analyses<br />

what’s on the horizon for jewellery industry.<br />

Features<br />

32<br />

39<br />

44<br />


The Russian question<br />


Germany beckons for Swiss watch brands<br />


Watch Buying Guide<br />

51<br />


Black and white gemstones<br />

Better Your Business<br />


Hands of time<br />

4An iconic annual trade fair is off the<br />

international agenda for another year and as a<br />

result, the door has been opened for another<br />

event to fill its place, writes MARTIN FOSTER.<br />

58<br />

60<br />

61<br />

62<br />

63<br />


Displays make-or-break a store. KIZER AND BENDER helps you avoid common traps.<br />


BRIAN WALKER explores the world of personality profiling in sales.<br />


JEANNIE WALTERS shares the key to improving your business amid uncertainty.<br />


Keep your sales staff on target with these crucial tips from BRIAN JEFFREY.<br />


GARRY GRANT dispels the myths around email-marketing and its alleged demise.<br />

51 GEM QUARTER<br />

Classic beauty<br />

4 <strong>Jeweller</strong> explores the world<br />

of black and white gemstones,<br />

examining their endless appeal<br />

and captivating nature brought<br />

on by simplicity.<br />

FRONT COVER MGDL Distribution is<br />

proud to announce the relaunch of<br />

Calvin Klein watches and jewellery in<br />

Australia & New Zealand. The Calvin Klein<br />

collection was created with the modern<br />

customer in mind. Featuring timeless,<br />

minimalist designs that highlight Calvin<br />

Klein’s globally recognised aesthetic that<br />

has defined the brand for over 50 years.<br />

mgdldistribution.com.au<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 9

Concept to Creation<br />


1300 886 108 | AUSTRALIA WIDE<br />


Editor’s Desk<br />

Making sense of the Omega x Swatch chaos<br />

Two iconic watch brands, one low price – the MoonSwatch was destined to be an astronomical collaboration.<br />

While Swatch has stressed that this wasn’t a limited edition release, it wasn’t enough to prevent crowd chaos at launches<br />

across the globe. ANGELA HAN explores what this says about consumers today and what it means for the watch industry.<br />

On the eve of 26 March, queues stretching<br />

hundreds of meters formed across cities<br />

worldwide, from Melbourne and Tokyo to<br />

New York and London. Pitched tents and<br />

fold-out chairs painted a familiar picture<br />

of excitement and anticipation that was<br />

reminiscent of an Apple launch. But this<br />

time the queues weren’t for Apple – they<br />

were for Swatch.<br />

The fanfare erupted over the long-awaited<br />

$380 MoonSwatch that was made in<br />

collaboration with Omega. Unavailable<br />

for purchase online, collectors had no<br />

choice but to travel and camp outside the<br />

boutiques to get their hands on one of the<br />

11 solar-system inspired timepieces.<br />

Madness ensued to such an extent that<br />

police intervention was reported at an<br />

event in Singapore, where violence broke<br />

out. The Law and Home Affairs Minister<br />

had to call for a “sense of perspective”<br />

from shoppers, saying that “we don’t need<br />

to lose our minds over these situations”.<br />

London’s Carnaby Street boutique was<br />

forced to close over crowd safety concerns<br />

within 30 minutes of opening, and new<br />

MoonSwatch owners in Dubai had to<br />

be escorted with their purchase by law<br />

enforcement from the store to get safely<br />

through the aggressive stampede of<br />

increasingly impatient hopefuls.<br />

It was reported that the watches sold out<br />

in under 10 minutes in Melbourne, and<br />

police had to be called to help manage<br />

the throngs of people who had lined up<br />

through the night before. It was a similar<br />

situation at Sydney’s Pitt Street boutique;<br />

videos appeared of eager fans crowding<br />

outside the store in the wee hours of<br />

the morning wanting to wrap the iconic<br />

release around their wrist before the<br />

store’s allocation was exhausted.<br />

While Swatch confirmed that the<br />

MoonSwatch collection is not a limited<br />

edition, and new stock would be available<br />

in the coming weeks, opportunistic<br />

scalpers were quick to list their watches<br />

on eBay where prices were inflated to<br />

10 times the original price. At the time<br />

of publishing, the highest bid was at<br />

AU$7,327, with 39 bidders vying for the<br />

Mission to the Moon model. The startling<br />

truth is that this price is closer to the RRP<br />

for the original Omega Speedmaster!<br />

Making the pricepoint accessible to the<br />

masses has not stopped people from paying<br />

exorbitant prices on the secondary market<br />

for immediate access to a MoonSwatch.<br />

With the Watches & Wonders trade fair<br />

in Geneva right around the corner and<br />

big brands such as Rolex, Cartier and<br />

Patek Phillipe launching bold new models<br />

(with equally bold price tags), it feels ironic<br />

that this modest timepiece has snatched<br />

headlines and stolen the limelight.<br />

What does this say about consumers<br />

today, and does this herald positive<br />

news for the watch industry?<br />

Brand value builds the queue<br />

For watch lovers, there’s little wonder<br />

that the MoonSwatch amassed so much<br />

traction. The release celebrates one of the<br />

most iconic timepieces ever created by<br />

Omega – the Speedmaster, with the most<br />

renowned watchmaker in the world, Swatch.<br />

While some pessimists have criticised the<br />

collaboration, bemoaning the dilution of an<br />

iconic brand, others have lauded the project.<br />

The ‘glass half full’ crowd is saying that this<br />

release lifted Swatch’s profile beyond the<br />

status of a manufacturer of cheap plastic<br />

quartz watches, with others suggesting<br />

the stage is now prepared for more exciting<br />

collaborations to come, not just for its own<br />

stable of brands, but also for others.<br />

What both crowds seem to forget is that<br />

selling ‘cheap plastic quartz watches’ is<br />

what enabled Swatch Group to become<br />

the juggernaut that owns Omega – not<br />

the other way around!<br />

Under the magnifying glass, it’s difficult<br />

to scrutinise the story and heritage of this<br />

project. By referencing the original Omega<br />

Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch<br />

that was worn by Buzz Aldrin during<br />

the Apollo 11 moon landing in 1969, the<br />

collection was released with 11 colour<br />

palettes – each representing a different<br />

planet within the solar system. At a<br />

friendly price point, it allows enthusiasts<br />

access without breaking the bank and<br />

forking out AU$7,600 for an original<br />

42mm Professional Chronograph. The<br />

result? A golden product that conjures<br />

desirability at a price anyone could afford.<br />

Collaborations between fast fashion and<br />

luxury designers have been going on for<br />

more than a decade and are usually<br />

well-received by consumers. It's surprising<br />

that the conservative Swiss have only now<br />

taken a bite from this apple.<br />

Collaborations<br />

between fast<br />

fashion and<br />

luxury designers<br />

have been going<br />

on for more<br />

than a decade<br />

and are usually<br />

well-received by<br />

consumers. It's<br />

surprising that<br />

the conservative<br />

Swiss have only<br />

now taken a bite<br />

from this apple.<br />

This Omega x Swatch collaboration may<br />

prove to be a spark that starts a fire amidst<br />

the resurging popularity of traditional<br />

watches. Only time will tell. One thing is<br />

for sure: more collaborations between<br />

watch brands will most likely continue<br />

following the success of this recent event.<br />

After all, reigniting the market share of<br />

quartz and mechanical watch-wearers<br />

from recent collectors or smartwatch<br />

converts bodes well for the industry.<br />

This sort of marketing and innovation is<br />

welcome, especially when the traditional<br />

watch trade was said to be dated.<br />

Regardless of what the critics say, judging<br />

by the reception, this is a win for the industry.<br />

The post-smartwatch era<br />

For almost a decade since the widespread<br />

adoption of the Apple Watch, pundits have<br />

speculated that the tech intrusion into the<br />

market was the beginning of the end for<br />

the traditional analogue watch. For a<br />

fraction of the cost, you can monitor<br />

your health, answer calls and set infinite<br />

reminders with a smartwatch. It’s only fair<br />

that many have asked the question: is the<br />

traditional wristwatch now obsolete?<br />

Fast forward to <strong>2022</strong> consumers appear<br />

to finally have grown tired of having their<br />

lives dominated by 24-hour notifications.<br />

As the world exits the COVID pandemic<br />

there is a growing trend for consumers to<br />

'declutter' and 'detox' from tech, coupled<br />

with extensive social media campaigns<br />

driven by brands that are eager to highlight<br />

the beauty of traditional watchmaking, the<br />

rise in demand for traditional wristwatches<br />

has come back with a vengeance.<br />

Might I add that we didn't see headlines<br />

of police intervention during the 2015<br />

launch of Apple x Hermés at the height<br />

of its popularity!<br />

While there will always be a market for both<br />

categories, consumers today, particularly<br />

millennials, have shown a preference for<br />

classic products that withstand the test<br />

of time – this is good news for traditional<br />

watch companies, especially those with a<br />

strong brand heritage.<br />

This growing group of aficionados proudly<br />

set themselves apart as connoisseurs of<br />

craftsmanship and history. Now is the time<br />

for brands to reinvigorate themselves and<br />

celebrate their story.<br />

Angela Han<br />

Publisher<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 11

Upfront<br />

#Instagram hashtags to follow<br />

Alpha Order<br />

#925silver<br />

1,679,019 POSTS<br />

#australianjewellery<br />

102,832 POSTS<br />

#coinjewelry<br />

82,066 POSTS<br />

#daintynecklace<br />

109,138 POSTS<br />

#earringsoftheday<br />

4,356,742 POSTS<br />


The Hope Pearl<br />

4Weighing 450-carats, the Hope Pearl was<br />

believed to be the largest natural saltwater<br />

pearl in the world and was one of the first<br />

acquisitions of nineteenth-century gem<br />

collector and banker Henry Philip Hope, who<br />

had acquired many famous gemstones and<br />

diamonds for his collection including the<br />

famous Hope Diamond.<br />

This large, natural pearl is uniquely colored<br />

greenish-gold to white and has been<br />

classified as a blister pearl, which grows<br />

attached to the mollusk’s shell.<br />

Today, the Hope Pearl is the property of an<br />

anonymous private collector from England<br />

who has loaned it to be displayed at the<br />

British Museum of Natural History.<br />

#instajeweller<br />

17,733 POSTS<br />

#jewellerygram<br />

938,014 POSTS<br />

#jewellerymaker<br />

1,074,794 POSTS<br />

#pearlchoker<br />

94,7873 POSTS<br />

#ringstack<br />

445,556 POSTS<br />

Trend Spotting<br />

4Chunky layered chokers and<br />

oversized gemstones are stealing the<br />

show. From Versace's <strong>2022</strong> runway<br />

collection to the recent SAG Awards,<br />

knuckle-duster rings and jumbo<br />

gems have been spotted everywhere.<br />

Resort-style glamour never went away,<br />

and local jewellery designers such as<br />

Brisbane-based Christie Nicolaides<br />

have pieces that suit the red carpet or<br />

a boat party through the Greek islands.<br />

Image credit: Instagram @christienicolaides<br />

Image: Tiffany & Co<br />

Stranger Things<br />

Weird, wacky and wonderful<br />

jewellery news from around the world<br />

Diamonds out of thin air?<br />

4New lab-created diamond<br />

manufacturer Aether has said it<br />

uses Swiss technology to pull the<br />

carbon dioxide out of the atmosphere<br />

to create diamonds. To date, no<br />

company has been able to claim that<br />

it extracts 20 metric tons of CO2 from<br />

the air for every one carat of diamond.<br />

In a two-part process, the diamonds<br />

need a reactor to extract CO2 out<br />

of the air which then becomes the<br />

raw material in a reactor where the<br />

diamonds are grown.<br />

Carats in ranch dressing<br />

4A diamond made from ranch<br />

dressing recently sold for US$12,550<br />

on eBay as a 'limited edition item'<br />

with 79 bidders vying for the unusual<br />

piece of jewellery. Hidden Valley<br />

Ranch commissioned a diamond<br />

manufacturer to create a two-carat<br />

round-brilliant synthetic diamond<br />

and set it into a 14-carat white gold<br />

band. "Hidden Valley Ranch Lover'<br />

(HVR LVR) is engraved on the inside<br />

of the shank.<br />

Who am I? Just<br />

about the best<br />

navigational<br />

discovery app in a<br />

'roundabout waze'.<br />

Get on your Waze<br />

4Waze is a navigational app with over 130<br />

million active users a month who rely on it to<br />

get real-time information of road accidents,<br />

closed roads and location of police and<br />

speed cameras. Due to its accuracy of usergenerated<br />

information and geo-targeting,<br />

businesses can also take advantage of anyone<br />

making a drive by your store.<br />

For example, Waze has multiple advertising<br />

options for jewellers who may want to use<br />

branded pins, arrows and promoted searches<br />

to stand out to passing traffic. Other curious<br />

users can tap on your branded pin and<br />

discover your business.<br />

Campaign Watch<br />

4K-pop sensation Rosé of girl group<br />

Blackpink reprises in Tiffany & Co's<br />

latest HardWear campaign as the<br />

brand's global ambassador for her<br />

second year running. Set to launch<br />

in July, the new diamond pavé-set gold<br />

designs are based on a throwback to<br />

the 1971 bracelet from The Tiffany<br />

Archive where designs were functional,<br />

architectural and bold.<br />

There's more to Mercury<br />

4Billions of years of meteorite impact<br />

may have turned Mercury’s surface<br />

into diamonds according to scientist<br />

Kevin Cannon. Computer simulations<br />

were used to predict impacts that may<br />

have transformed one-third of the<br />

planet’s crust into a diamond stockpile.<br />

The findings show that if Mercury had<br />

surface graphite 300 meters thick, it<br />

would have generated 16 quadrillion<br />

tons of diamonds — about 16 times<br />

Earth’s reserves. An opportunity to<br />

scout for diamonds may come in 2025.<br />


Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd<br />

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com<br />

Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Journalists Richard Chiu editorial@jewellermagazine.com | Samuel Ord samuel.ord@jewellermagazine.com<br />

Production Coordinator Lauren McKinnon art@befindanmedia.com<br />

Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com<br />

Copyright All material appearing in <strong>Jeweller</strong> is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd<br />

strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information<br />

believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to<br />

the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities<br />

arising from the published material.


AU +61 2 8543 4600 NZ +64 9 480 2211 | designaaccessories.com.au

News<br />

Australian <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair overwhelming success say suppliers and retailers<br />

with Erin Keller, membership manager Nationwide<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s confirming that “the energy in the room<br />

was amazing! Our members attended from all<br />

over the country, from Toowoomba to Mudgee to<br />

Launceston, and they were just as excited to see us<br />

and suppliers, as we were to see them!”<br />

Josh Zarb CEO Independent <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Collective<br />

said that overall he was “very pleased by the vibe<br />

and the atmosphere throughout the whole show.”<br />

The boutique-style event, which was sold out four weeks before opening, was promoted as “Kick Start <strong>2022</strong>”.<br />

The Australian <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair and has been<br />

declared a success. The boutique-style event,<br />

which was sold out four weeks before opening, was<br />

promoted as “Kick Start <strong>2022</strong>”.<br />

The event was held in the same room as last year’s<br />

event at Sydney International Convention Centre<br />

at Darling Harbour and Gary Fitz-Roy managing<br />

director Expertise Events said it “hit the mark”.<br />

“There was a definite upbeat feel from the opening<br />

to close on both days, with strong reports of very<br />

good buying on the show floor.<br />

“It seems all businesses have been riding a<br />

rollercoaster and, after starting to recover from<br />

COVID restrictions, lurching from bush fires to the<br />

latest flood issue, sometimes you can't help but<br />

think, ‘Give us a break’, but like most Australians<br />

the jewellery sector is very resilient,” Fitz-Roy said.<br />

He explained that the success of the tradeshow<br />

was “helped by the NSW government’s easing of<br />

QR codes and masks, so it was great to see smiling<br />

faces. Saturday night Happy Hour was very much<br />

appreciated and was certainly a small celebration.”<br />

At the commencement of Happy Hour, and when<br />

everyone had a drink, Fitz-Roy took the opportunity<br />

to ask the exhibitors and visitors to pause and<br />

salute industry icon Peter Beck – who passed away<br />

last year - as many of his industry friends and<br />

colleagues were unable to attend the funeral in<br />

Adelaide because of COVID border restrictions.<br />

David Paterson, managing director of Paterson<br />

Fine <strong>Jeweller</strong>y said the fair was great result for all<br />

involved: “It was terrific to see so many people we<br />

haven’t seen for a long time and all came together<br />

to listen to some of the sad but inspiring stories of<br />

our friends and peers who are doing it tough with<br />

the recent floods.<br />

“However, there is lots of resilience and positivity.<br />

We had a great weekend with sales and we are now<br />

really excited about what we can expect in August.”<br />

According to Mike Dyer, sales manager, Retail Edge,<br />

“The show was great. The atmosphere was warm<br />

and exciting, a bit like a gathering of friends that<br />

had seen each other for a while.”<br />

He added, “The traffic [visitor numbers] was good<br />

for both days and for us there was a good mix<br />

of existing clients and new opportunities. The<br />

exhibitors around us all expressed that they had<br />

been busy and did good business. Retailers were<br />

there to spend,” he added.<br />

Greville Ingham national sales manager Peter W<br />

Beck said, "It was nothing short of an ‘uplift’ is<br />

how I would describe the AJF this past weekend.<br />

"Despite so many being affected by the recent<br />

floods and suppliers being hampered by COVID and<br />

travel restrictions, people came together to support<br />

the industry and a “get on with it” attitude in a good<br />

Aussie spirit. The show was pervaded by a sense of<br />

positivity, loud banter, slaps on the back and lot’s of<br />

great complements for the product on display. Well<br />

done to all!"<br />

There was a good cross section of retail buyers<br />

He was another who said that the show was well<br />

supported. “I was surprised on how busy the show<br />

felt overall on both the Saturday and the Sunday.<br />

It seemed to open with a bang right from 10am on<br />

the Saturday and didn’t slow down at all over the<br />

two days.<br />

“The [ICC] room felt like it was the perfect size<br />

and I am sure that all suppliers would have had<br />

a fantastic result.”<br />

Vera Jarjo jewellery services relationship manager<br />

at Pallion also said it was great to see old and new<br />

faces over the two days.<br />

“We have missed this personal interaction due<br />

to COVID and it is fantastic to be engaging with<br />

clients again. The lead scanning tool was a<br />

welcome addition to the fair and we look forward<br />

to connecting with these clients post event,”<br />

Jarjo said.<br />

Both Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s and Independent<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s Collective took the opportunity to use<br />

Kick Start <strong>2022</strong> to kick-off their group’s activities<br />

for the New Year.<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s managing director Colin<br />

Pocklington said, “Our members benefitted from<br />

our workshop program and enjoyed the chance<br />

to meet suppliers face-to-face with again. The<br />

high level of retailer attendance and busy aisles<br />

translated into good sales for exhibitors.<br />

“The attendance and results from the March<br />

fair augers well for the IJWF at Darling Harbour<br />

in August.”<br />

Zarb added: “We use the fairs to meet new<br />

stores of course, and just as importantly to catch<br />

up with our members. We hosted a function on<br />

the Friday evening prior to the fair and it was so<br />

nice to have over 30 of our IJC partners join us<br />

over the weekend.<br />

“We used the fair to have the opportunity to spend<br />

time with our retailers.”<br />

Fitz-Roy said that final planning is well underway<br />

for the August International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y fair and, “If<br />

the weekend’s results are anything to go by it will<br />

be well and truly to complete coming together.”<br />

He added that the three key buying groups –<br />

Nationwide, IJC and Leading Edge – all had space<br />

on the show floor and will be hosting membership<br />

activities in and around the three days.<br />

14 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong>

News<br />

Perth Mint collaborates with Argyle diamonds for new launch<br />

The Jewelled Koi is part of the Masterpieces Series,<br />

and features 78 Argyle Pink diamonds and 80 fine white<br />

diamonds set in 10 ounces of 99.99 per cent pure gold.<br />

The Perth Mint has launched a limited-edition<br />

commemorative coin, The Jewelled Koi, which<br />

showcases Australia’s famed Argyle Pink<br />

diamonds.<br />

Part of the Masterpieces Series, the coin<br />

features 78 Argyle Pink diamonds and 80 fine<br />

white diamonds set in 10 ounces of 99.99 per<br />

cent pure gold.<br />

Each coin is valued at $262,800 and the inspiration<br />

behind the use of the koi as the featured animal<br />

is its symbolism for fertility, marriage, prosperity<br />

and wealth. Only eight were produced as it is the<br />

“luckiest” number in the Chinese culture.<br />

The coins also feature the image of Queen<br />

Elizabeth II crafted by Royal Mint engraver Jody<br />

Clark, the monetary denomination and year-date<br />

on the obverse, presented in a display case set<br />

with two additional Argyle Pinks and 18-carat<br />

gold insets.<br />

The Jewelled Koi is the fifth annual release of The<br />

Mint’s diamond-studded exclusive jewelled coin<br />

series such as the Jewelled Phoenix, Dragon, Tiger<br />

and Horse which gained popularity and sought by<br />

enthusiasts worldwide.<br />

According to Jane King, CEO, “The Perth Mint is<br />

proud to present The Jewelled Koi to the global<br />

luxury market and we look forward to creating even<br />

more extraordinary collectable artworks in future.<br />

“The exquisite craftsmanship, precious materials<br />

and cultural considerations that go into every<br />

jewelled piece makes each iteration highly sought<br />

after by numismatic connoisseurs.”<br />

Neil Vance, general manager, The Perth Mint said,<br />

“Each jewelled coin series is a huge commitment<br />

but every year the results are just outstanding,<br />

and the koi is no different – the exceptional artistry<br />

in this series is second to none and we have no<br />

doubt the numismatic community will be just as<br />

impressed with the koi as we are.”<br />

The jewelled series was started by The Mint in<br />

January 2018 with the Jewelled Phoenix and<br />

developed annually by Singapore-based John<br />

Glajz, an Argyle Pink Diamond authorised partner<br />

and a regional ambassador for the Natural Colour<br />

Diamond Association.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y & Gem World moves to Singapore in historic move<br />

“Suppliers who are serious about business will<br />

be at JGW Singapore, and we are confident that<br />

global buyers in decision-making roles will make<br />

the trip to the city-state to join us on the show<br />

floor,” she said.<br />

Hong Kong has been plagued with another COVID<br />

outbreak in recent months and restrictions on<br />

travel and public gathering remain in place.<br />

At the same time, Singapore has eased travel and<br />

social distancing restrictions making the city-state<br />

an attractive destination to the in-person event.<br />

The organisers of the <strong>Jeweller</strong>y & Gem World (JGW)<br />

Fair have revealed that this year’s exhibition will<br />

take place in Singapore, not Hong Kong.<br />

The exhibition is expected to take place on 23-27<br />

September, with organisers pursuing a more<br />

‘accessible’ in-person experience.<br />

The change of venue is expected to be a one-off<br />

arrangement, with the decision to change location<br />

made with pandemic restrictions on travel in mind,<br />

according to organiser Informa Markets.<br />

Celine Lau, director of <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fairs at Informa<br />

Markets said, “Even against the background<br />

of a pandemic, Singapore has the capacity to<br />

securely and efficiently host the world’s most<br />

iconic jewellery show.”<br />

“As the longstanding home base of the most<br />

important jewellery fair in the world, Hong Kong is<br />

almost always mentioned in the same breath as<br />

JGW. In fact, it has become an annual tradition for<br />

thousands of suppliers and buyers to travel to Hong<br />

Kong every September,” Lau said.<br />

“Our community can rest assured that Hong<br />

Kong will be ready to deliver the full JGW<br />

experience in 2023 when conditions allow for<br />

safe and responsible in-person interactions, and<br />

international travel restrictions are lifted.”<br />

David Bondi, senior vice president at Informa<br />

Markets said, “The last two years have been<br />

extremely challenging for everybody, and we, as an<br />

industry, have been doing our utmost to not only<br />

keep businesses running, but moving forward.”<br />

“Industry stakeholders overwhelmingly told us they<br />

wanted safe and secure physical fairs that they<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y & Gem World, Hong Kong, 2019.<br />

could participate in, and Informa Markets delivered<br />

by successfully hosting enhanced large-scale inperson<br />

events in the US, Europe, Middle East and<br />

Asia in the last several months, with many more<br />

firmly scheduled for <strong>2022</strong> and beyond,” he said.<br />

Bondi noted that the <strong>Jeweller</strong>y, Gem & Technology<br />

Dubai, which recently concluded, attracted buyers<br />

from more than 100 countries and demonstrated<br />

the need for face-to-face interactions.<br />

Informa Markets has also scheduled specialedition<br />

fairs such as the <strong>Jeweller</strong>y & Gem Asia<br />

Hong Kong event running 16-19 June, <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

& Gem WORLD Hong Kong on 16-19 September,<br />

and <strong>Jeweller</strong>y & Gem ASEAN Bangkok on 2-5<br />

November.<br />



<strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 15

News<br />

Cartier sues Tiffany & Co.<br />

International jewellery brand Cartier – part of the Richemont group – has accused<br />

Tiffany & Co. of “stealing trade secrets” and filed a lawsuit before a New York state court<br />

International jewellery brand Cartier – part of the Richemont group –<br />

has accused Tiffany & Co. of “stealing trade secrets” and filed a lawsuit<br />

before a New York state court.<br />

The complaint was based on charges that Tiffany hired and took<br />

advantage of a former Cartier junior manager’s knowledge regarding its<br />

high-end jewellery business in an attempt to revive its own designs.<br />

In a statement to Reuters, "Cartier fully respects the rights of<br />

competitors to pursue International jewellery brand Cartier – part of<br />

the Richemont group – has accused Tiffany & Co. of “stealing trade<br />

secrets” and filed a lawsuit before a New York state court.<br />

Cartier is seeking an injunction against Tiffany demanding to return<br />

and desist from using stolen trade secrets, plus compensation for<br />

unspecified damages.<br />

The lawsuit charged that former Cartier junior manager Megan Marino<br />

was hired by Tiffany in December 2021 in a “desperate move” to jumpstart<br />

its business which was, according to claims, losing traction after a<br />

series of leadership departures that indicated a "disturbing culture of<br />

misappropriating competitive information".<br />

According to court documents, Tiffany fired Marino just five weeks<br />

after being hired and in an affidavit submitted by Marino along with the<br />

complaint stating that Tiffany was "more interested in hiring me as a<br />

source of information than as a High Jewelry manager".<br />

The term ‘high jewellery’ is marketing jargon used by some<br />

international jewellery brands to describe pieces that typically cost<br />

above $50,000; there is no universally accepted definition.<br />

The charge sheet also claimed that Tiffany hired another former Cartier<br />

executive to work on its ‘Blue Book’ high-end jewellery project despite a<br />

prevailing six-month non-compete agreement.<br />

Responding to the charges, Tiffany told Reuters, "We deny the baseless<br />

allegations and will vigorously defend ourselves."<br />

Exclusive Distributor of BOSS watches in<br />

Australia & New Zealand<br />

Tiffany & Co. was acquired by French Luxury conglomerate Moët<br />

Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) in January 2021, but the takeover was<br />

marred by insults, lawsuits and accusations of mismanagement.<br />

Soon after LVMH closed its $US15.8 billion ($AU21.7 billion) acquisition<br />

of the American jewellery retailer, it replaced several of Tiffany’s senior<br />

leaders with executives from other parts of the LVMH empire.<br />

Ph: +61 (3) 9372 1122<br />

info@mgdl.com.au<br />

In February last year, <strong>Jeweller</strong> reported that LVMH held a “town hall”<br />

meeting for Tiffany & Co. employees in which management outlined<br />

a shift in focus toward “high-end, sparkling jewellery” and away from<br />

affordable, sterling silver product lines.<br />


News<br />

Swatch Group halts exports<br />

The suspension of exports from the group could be a major<br />

blow to wealthy Russians wanting to acquire assets of value<br />

amid the plummeting value of the Russian rouble.<br />

Swiss watch conglomerate Swatch Group<br />

– which owns Omega, Longines, Tissot, and<br />

Breguet, among others – has announced it<br />

has halted exports to Russia.<br />

The suspension of exports from the group could<br />

be a major blow to wealthy Russians wanting to<br />

acquire assets of value amid the plummeting<br />

value of the Russian rouble.<br />

“Swatch Group is monitoring and analysing the<br />

situation very closely. At the moment, we have<br />

put exports to Russia on hold,” the company<br />

told Watchpro.<br />

Affluent Russians have reportedly been purchasing<br />

luxury watches and jewellery in an effort to take<br />

advantage of the value of the rouble which has<br />

been plunging since the invasion of Ukraine.<br />

The sanctions are taking a toll on the Russian<br />

currency and restricted cash movement, both<br />

domestic and international.<br />

The European Union has also acted to exclude<br />

several Russian banks from the SWIFT financial<br />

messaging and payments system.<br />

Several major logistics and travel companies have<br />

also suspended operations and services which<br />

could trigger shortages on materials and supplies,<br />

demand volatility and increase costs.<br />


24 Feb Audemars Piguet 4 Mar Hermés<br />

24 Feb Pandora 4 Mar Kering<br />

27 Feb Brilliant Earth 4 Mar Swarovski<br />

28 Feb Breitling 5 Mar Prada<br />

3 Mar Cartier<br />

24 Feb – Ukraine Exit<br />

6 Mar LVMH<br />

24 Feb – Ukraine Exit<br />

3 Mar Richemont Group 6 Mar Rolex<br />

3 Mar Swatch Group 10 Mar Richard Mille<br />

4 Mar Chanel<br />

Signet <strong>Jeweller</strong>s boycotts Russian diamonds<br />

Signet <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, the world’s largest<br />

retailer of diamond jewellery, has declared<br />

a suspension of purchasing Russian mined<br />

diamonds in response to the invasion of<br />

Ukraine in late February.<br />

In mid-March the company announced that<br />

diamonds mined in Russia would not be<br />

purchased from suppliers by Signet retailers for<br />

the foreseeable future.<br />

It’s a clash between two monumental<br />

influences of the global market, with Signet<br />

the largest diamond retailer in the most<br />

significant market, the US, and Russia the<br />

world’s largest diamond mining country.<br />

The US market accounts for approximately<br />

half of the world’s diamond retail sales. Russia<br />

supplies approximately one third of the world’s<br />

diamonds, with more than 90 per cent of those<br />

diamonds mined by Alrosa.<br />

Signet <strong>Jeweller</strong>s CEO, Virginia Drosos,<br />

told Bloomberg that the company doesn’t<br />

expect any downturn despite the change in<br />

approach to supply.<br />

“If we don’t buy Russian diamonds ourselves and<br />

if we require our vendors to also certify that they<br />

are not buying new Russian diamonds, we still<br />

have sufficient supply for the year and into the<br />

holidays,” she said.<br />

The Signet Love Inspires Foundation also<br />

recently donated $US1 million to the Ukrainian<br />

branch of the Red Cross in order to assist<br />

humanitarian efforts.<br />

Signet has suspended overall business<br />

interaction with Russian-owned entities since<br />

the beginning of the invasion in late February.<br />

Drosos said that the company is proud to<br />

support humanitarian organisations such as<br />

the Red Cross.<br />

"We put our purpose into action through<br />

the Signet Love Inspires Foundation and the<br />

generous contributions from our Signet team<br />

members. We give with a grateful heart to<br />

support the Red Cross organization's critical<br />

mission to provide lifesaving help where it is so<br />

desperately needed."<br />

Signet released its latest quarterly and annual<br />

financial report on March 13, with full year<br />

revenue for the <strong>2022</strong> fiscal year reaching<br />

$US7.8 billion, a sharp increase following a<br />

disappointing 2021 ($US5.3 billion).<br />

London Bullion body suspends gold and silver<br />

trading with Russian refineries<br />

The London Bullion Market Association (LBMA)<br />

has announced the suspension from sourcing<br />

gold and silver with six Russian-based refiners<br />

for an indefinite period in light of the mounting<br />

economic sanctions imposed on Russia.<br />

The economic sanctions arise following<br />

Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in late February.<br />

Gold and silver refineries JSC Krastsvetmet,<br />

JSC Novosibirsk Refinery, JSC Uralelectromed,<br />

Prioksky Plant of Non-Ferrous Metals,<br />

Shyolkovsky Factory of Secondary Precious<br />

Metals, and gold-only Moscow Special Alloys<br />

Processing Plant are all suspended from<br />

LBMA’s Good Delivery list.<br />

Gold and silver bars processed after the<br />

suspension order on the these refineries<br />

will no longer be accepted in the London<br />

bullion market.<br />

However, bars traded from the refineries before<br />

the suspension will still be honoured.<br />

The London bullion market is the largest in the<br />

world and the suspension is expected to have a<br />

significant impact on the trading partners of the<br />

suspended refineries.<br />

Additionally, several US senators have sought<br />

to pass a bill preventing Russia from liquidating<br />

gold assets, which could be used to soften the<br />

impact of the economic sanctions.<br />

The senators who authored the bill seek to<br />

impose additional sanctions on US-based<br />

companies trading or transporting gold from<br />

the Bank of Russia, as well as companies<br />

physically or electronically selling gold in<br />

Russia.<br />

Senator Angus King, one of the bill’s authors,<br />

told Axios, “Russia’s massive gold supply is<br />

one of the few remaining assets that [President<br />

Vladimir] Putin can use to keep his country’s<br />

economy from falling even further."<br />

"By sanctioning these reserves, we can further<br />

isolate Russia from the world’s economy and<br />

increase the difficulty of Putin’s increasinglycostly<br />

military campaign."<br />

Based on data from the Bank of Russia<br />

international reserves as of 18 February<br />

were at $US643.2 billion ($AU881.41 billion)<br />

ranking fourth among countries with the<br />

highest forex reserves.<br />

It has 23 per cent of its reserves in gold, while<br />

22 per cent of the reserves are in US dollars.<br />

18 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong>

News<br />

More EU sanctions on Russia<br />

The European Union has announced a fourth round of economic<br />

santions on Russia following the invasion of Ukraine in late February,<br />

and among the restrictive measures is a ban on the importartion of<br />

luxury items such as diamonds and jewellery.<br />

The move by the EU comes after a similar ban was placed on<br />

importing Russian diamonds in the US.<br />

The punitive measures also prohibit all transactions with identified<br />

state-owned enterprises, the granting of credit rating services to any<br />

Russian citizen or entity and any new investment in the Russian energy<br />

sector. The EU also expanded the list of people linked to Russia’s<br />

defence and industrial sectors.<br />

The additional trade restrictions include a ban on importing industrial<br />

and precious metals, jewellery, pearls, gold, rough and polished<br />

diamonds, and metal parts valued at €300 ($US330) or more.<br />

Despite the intensified measures, the enhanced restrictions apply only<br />

to rough diamonds extracted or polished exclusively in Russia. Cut or<br />

polished diamonds from Russian rough imported from other countries<br />

are still considered legal.<br />

Policy loophole<br />

The US-based Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) has cautioned<br />

members from purchasing polished or cut diamonds from Russian<br />

rough noting that “the risk of additional future limitations is high.”<br />

The JVC has communicated to members and pointed out that while the<br />

importation ban from the US Department of Treasury’s Office of Foreign<br />

Assets Control blocked the US imports of rough, cut and polished<br />

diamonds from Russia, a policy interpretation involving cut and polished<br />

diamonds that underwent ‘substantial transformation’ from another<br />

country processed from a Russian rough becomes a product of that<br />

country, and is therefore legal.<br />

‘Substantial transformation’ refers to products or goods processed to<br />

make a fundamental change in form or appearance to gain more value.<br />

“Under this guidance, rough diamonds imported from Russia into a<br />

country that has not implemented sanctions or a ban and then cut and<br />

polished are currently legal to import into the US as they will fall under a<br />

separate harmonised tariff code,” the JVC said.<br />

Sara Yood, deputy general counsel, JVC told Rapaport News, “It’s a little<br />

disappointing because it makes me think that this import ban is probably<br />

going to have a limited effect.”<br />

For example, rough diamonds cut and polished in Russia are prohibited<br />

from US importation, Russian rough cut and polished in India is exempted.<br />

“What it really hinges on is how strong the US alliance is with other<br />

countries and whether other countries also follow suit because I think<br />

the ultimate goal is to close off the avenues for Russia to sell these<br />

products,” Yood said.<br />

“The US is probably really hoping that allies step up and implement<br />

similar sanctions.”<br />



+61 (08) 8352 1400 | sales@markmcaskill.com.au<br />


News<br />

Diamond Foundry announces lawsuit against US Government<br />

Diamond Foundry, a US company manufacturing<br />

lab grown diamonds in California, has announced<br />

it will take legal action against the United States<br />

Trade Office.<br />

The company released a statement criticising the<br />

US government for trade tariffs put in place against<br />

China during the Trump administration.<br />

The tariffs penalise businesses for using diamond<br />

polishing services in China to a degree which<br />

Diamond Foundry states exceeds the cost of the<br />

manufacturing service itself.<br />

No changes have been made since the transfer<br />

between the Trump and Biden administrations in<br />

the US and a statement by Diamond Foundry said<br />

that legal action was now required.<br />

“When Trump introduced trade tariffs against<br />

China in four, ever more aggressive tranches, the<br />

polishing of diamonds in China was included with<br />

a penalty that exceeds the cost of the contract<br />

manufacturing service added in China.<br />

“This egregious amount stems from the fact that<br />

the tariff is applied as a percentage of the market<br />

value of the polished diamond re-imported --<br />

rather than the value of the polishing contract<br />

service (which itself turns out less than the tariff<br />

for diamonds).”<br />

It claims that “the Biden administration adopted<br />

these Trump tariffs without revisiting them. We do<br />

not believe that doubling the cost of a product or<br />

service of a peaceful country is appropriate for the<br />

United States government to effect overnight, or<br />

any good trade policy.<br />

“After thorough review, we have therefore taken<br />

legal action. The lawsuit action we are taking is<br />

largely based on a technicality of how Trump got<br />

specific timelines wrong but so be it. Our lawsuit<br />

largely follows what Tesla and others have been<br />

claiming as well.”<br />

Diamond Foundry was established in 2012 by<br />

Martin Roscheisen and Jeremy Scholz and is a<br />

producer of lab-created diamonds which are grown<br />

using plasma physics in a San Francisco laboratory.<br />

In the lead up to the lawsuit announcement,<br />

Diamond Foundry had been publicly critical of<br />

the US approach to sanctioning Russia on both a<br />

corporate and governmental level.<br />

On Twitter in February, Diamond Foundry criticised<br />

Brilliant Earth, among many US retailers, for<br />

selling diamonds sourced in Russia, primary by<br />

Alrosa, the nation’s biggest mining company.<br />

The company’s postion was that the current tariffs<br />

make doing business for local manufacturers too<br />

difficult with little justification.<br />

“In general we believe the United States<br />

government should work to support domestic<br />

manufacturers like Diamond Foundry as opposed<br />

to making life difficult for them.<br />

“No diamond producer in India or Russia is<br />

exposed to these Trump/Biden tariffs.<br />

“Russian diamonds have been okay to import<br />

tariff free whereas polishing in China was<br />

massively penalised. And of course now with the<br />

sanctions in effect, it still remains to be seen<br />

what happens to all these diamonds mined in<br />

Russia that are then polished in India - where<br />

they thus become India-origin diamonds<br />

according to the US Trade Office.”<br />



Australian leading wholesaler, specialising in manufacturing<br />

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Machine made and hand made, any kind, chains and bracelets,<br />

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P: 03 9650 5955 | E: sales@millenniumchain.com.au<br />


News<br />

Mejuri counters Yurman IP infringement lawsuit, denies ‘copycat’ tag<br />

Canadian jewellery company Mejuri has<br />

responded to the IP infringement lawsuit filed by<br />

US-based designer David Yurman alleging that<br />

the legal action is “an effort to bully and stifle an<br />

emerging competitor”.<br />

In documents submitted before the US Southern<br />

District Court of New York, Mejuri “did not copy<br />

Yurman’s designs”, adding the classic jewellery<br />

designs “have been used for centuries— designs<br />

that are ubiquitous in the jewellery industry today.”<br />

Mejuri also claimed the Yurman complaint is<br />

“replete with unsubstantiated allegations and<br />

unnecessary personal attacks on Mejuri and its<br />

founders that have nothing to do with intellectual<br />

property or Yurman’s alleged concerns.”<br />

The company also claimed that the designs in<br />

question were products “independently designed<br />

and developed” by Mejuri based on “well-known,<br />

common motifs—like twist designs—that have been<br />

used in jewellery since at least the Roman Empire”.<br />

Mejuri also denied the likelihood of confusion<br />

between its products and Yurman’s as both<br />

companies’ products “are never sold in the same<br />

stores”, noting that other competitor brands “more<br />

well-known than Mejuri” also used similar designs<br />

but were never reprimanded by Yurman.<br />

“Yurman apparently has taken no action against<br />

these brands and instead has chosen to target<br />

Mejuri by bringing an anti-competitive attack on<br />

a smaller, but rapidly growing, challenger that is<br />

modernising a traditional industry,” the defence<br />

stated.<br />

Mejuri’s lawyers also sought to dismiss the<br />

trade dress violation charges, claiming it does<br />

not infringe and dilute the alleged trade dress in<br />

violation of New York General Business Law.<br />

Responding to Mejuri’s counterclaims, Jay Neukom,<br />

an attorney for Yurman, told JCK, “It’s common for<br />

companies caught copying others’ designs to argue<br />

that the design is free for the taking.”<br />

“Mejuri’s weak attempt to excuse its conduct by<br />

citing the Roman Empire and its own corporate<br />

mission statement does not change the facts.<br />

Yurman’s complaint has side-by-side pictures that<br />

show how Mejuri’s ‘in-house’ designs mimic David<br />

Yurman, Boucheron, and Lagos. We look forward<br />

to making this misconduct even clearer as the case<br />

proceeds,” he added.<br />

In December 2021, Yurman alleged venture capitalbacked<br />

rival Mejuri for copying several distinctive<br />

jewellery designs that bore striking similarities with<br />

Yurman’s Pure Form and Sculpted Cable collections.<br />

The Yurman complaint was filed in the New York<br />

Southern District federal court for infringement<br />

based on dilution of Yurman trade dress and<br />

violations of the state’s business law.<br />

Trade dress is a type of US trademark law that<br />

extends to the configuration (design and shape)<br />

of a product itself. If the overall image serves to<br />

distinguish the source of a product, or service from<br />

those of its competitors, one or more elements<br />

that make up the trade dress may satisfy the<br />

requirements for registration as a trademark.<br />

Yurman sought an injunction against Mejuri for<br />

manufacturing products that “infringe” on the<br />

specified designs and demand the finished pieces<br />

be “melted down.” The company sought redress<br />

for unspecified damages.<br />

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As at 31 December 2021 <strong>Jeweller</strong> was ranked 54,878, in the world,<br />

well ahead of other jewellery industry titles in more populous<br />

countries. For example, the US magazines JCK, National Jeweler,<br />

and Instore ranked 82,055, 134,498, and 238,570 respectively, even<br />

though the population of the US is much larger than Australia.<br />


WORLD<br />


1 <strong>Jeweller</strong> Australia 54,878<br />

2 JCK USA 82,055<br />

3 National Jeweler USA 134,498<br />

4 Instore Magazine USA 238,570<br />

5 Diamond World India 256,670<br />

6 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 269,464<br />

7 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Net Asia Hong Kong 307,988<br />

8 Professional <strong>Jeweller</strong> UK 580,385<br />

9 The Jewelry Magazine India 613,901<br />

10 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Outlook UK 692,146<br />

11 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Business Canada 745,214<br />

12 Art of <strong>Jeweller</strong>y India 769,354<br />

Leaders and numbers<br />

have one thing in common...<br />

13 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y World Australia 1,087,006<br />

14 Solitaire Magazine Singapore 1,142,751<br />

15 Indian <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 1,203,543<br />

16 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> Magazine UK 1,305,323<br />

17 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Focus UK 1,846,557<br />

18 Preziosa Magazine Italy 2,198,671<br />

19 The New <strong>Jeweller</strong> UAE / India 2,745,417<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> has been the leading voice of the Australian and New Zealand jewellery<br />

industries for 25 years, and today we rank #1 in the world.<br />

Alexa, the independent global ranking system for measuring website traffic and<br />

readership, now ranks jewellermagazine.com as the most widely read industry<br />

publication in the world – by far!<br />

Better still, the daily time spent on jewellermagazine.com averages 29 minutes, which<br />

far exceeds all other international publications, which average only 2–3 minutes per<br />

visitor. Moreover, our page views is miles ahead of all other industry publications.<br />

Moreover, <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s social media presence dominates and our eMags boast more<br />

than 12.3 million reads.<br />

The numbers speak for themselves - follow the leader, and follow the readers too!<br />

20 Canadian <strong>Jeweller</strong> Canada 3,726,881<br />

21 The Retail Jeweler USA 4,158,087<br />

22 Gold Book Magazine Turkey 4,942,352<br />

23 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Monthly UK 5,386,955<br />

24 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Network South Africa 6,005,766<br />

25 Bangkok Gems & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Thailand NO DATA<br />

26 Hong Kong <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Magazine Hong Kong NO DATA<br />

27 Jewel Trendz India NO DATA<br />

28 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Time New Zealand NO DATA<br />

29 Solitaire International Singapore NO DATA<br />





WORLD<br />


1 Rapaport Magazine* USA 48,447<br />

2 Idex* Israel 84,120<br />


Denotes titles connected to diamond trading platforms / publication




Page Views is the number of times a reader visits any page<br />

on a website. A higher Page View figure the better, because it<br />

means readers are more engaged in the content. <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s<br />

Page View count of 22 leads all websites while most others<br />

can only record a single Page View before the reader leaves.<br />

Time-on-Page is the average time a reader spends on a page<br />

while Time-On-Site is how long they spend on the site each<br />

day. <strong>Jeweller</strong> leads the world with a Daily Time of 29.6 minutes,<br />

while most other publications only manage 1-2 minutes. The<br />

more time spent on a website, the better the global ranking.<br />

The Bounce Rate measures the percentage of visits that<br />

consist of only a single page view. It indicates the percentage<br />

of readers that land on a website, and immediately leave<br />

(‘bounce off’) meaning a low bounce rate is optimal. Alexa<br />

records <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s Bounce Rate at less than 23 per cent.<br />




(IN MINUTES)<br />


BOUNCE<br />

RATE<br />

1 <strong>Jeweller</strong> Australia 22.00<br />

2 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 9.00<br />

3 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Net Asia Hong Kong 3.60<br />

4 The Jewelry Magazine India 2.10<br />

5 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Business Canada 2.00<br />

6 Diamond World India 2.00<br />

7 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Focus UK 2.00<br />

8 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> Magazine UK 2.00<br />

9 Indian <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 2.00<br />

10 The New <strong>Jeweller</strong> UAE / India 2.00<br />

11 Canadian <strong>Jeweller</strong> Canada 2.00<br />

12 The Retail Jeweler USA 2.00<br />

13 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Outlook UK 1.80<br />

14 Instore Magazine USA 1.80<br />

15 National Jeweler USA 1.70<br />

16 JCK USA 1.70<br />

17 Professional <strong>Jeweller</strong> UK 1.50<br />

18 Art of <strong>Jeweller</strong>y India 1.40<br />

19 Solitaire Magazine Singapore 1.00<br />

20 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y World Australia 1.00<br />

21 Preziosa Magazine Italy 1.00<br />

22 Gold Book Magazine Turkey 1.00<br />

23 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Monthly UK 1.00<br />

24 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Network South Africa 1.00<br />

25 Bangkok Gems & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Thailand NO DATA<br />

26 Solitaire International Singapore NO DATA<br />

27 Jewel Trendz India NO DATA<br />

28 Hong Kong <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Magazine Hong Kong NO DATA<br />

29 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Time New Zealand NO DATA<br />

1 <strong>Jeweller</strong> Australia 29:60<br />

2 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 20:06<br />

3 National Jeweler USA 15:50<br />

4 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Business Canada 02:17<br />

5 Diamond World India 02:15<br />

6 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Outlook UK 02:11<br />

7 JCK USA 01:56<br />

8 Professional <strong>Jeweller</strong> UK 01:55<br />

9 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Focus UK 01:51<br />

10 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Net Asia Hong Kong 01:44<br />

11 The Jewelry Magazine India 01:43<br />

12 Instore Magazine USA 01:42<br />

13 Art of <strong>Jeweller</strong>y India 01:38<br />

14 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> Magazine UK 01:11<br />

15 Solitaire Magazine Singapore 01:10<br />

16 Indian <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 00:54<br />

17 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y World Australia 00:30<br />

18 Preziosa Magazine Italy NO DATA<br />

19 The New <strong>Jeweller</strong> UAE / India NO DATA<br />

20 Canadian <strong>Jeweller</strong> Canada NO DATA<br />

21 The Retail Jeweler USA NO DATA<br />

22 Gold Book Magazine Turkey NO DATA<br />

23 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Monthly UK NO DATA<br />

24 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Network South Africa NO DATA<br />

25 Bangkok Gems & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Thailand NO DATA<br />

26 Solitaire International Singapore NO DATA<br />

27 Jewel Trendz India NO DATA<br />

28 Hong Kong <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Magazine Hong Kong NO DATA<br />

29 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Time New Zealand NO DATA<br />

1 <strong>Jeweller</strong> Australia 22.80%<br />

2 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Net Asia Hong Kong 33.80%<br />

3 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 38.70%<br />

4 Professional <strong>Jeweller</strong> UK 50.00%<br />

5 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Outlook UK 52.00%<br />

6 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Business Canada 55.00%<br />

7 Art of <strong>Jeweller</strong>y India 59.10%<br />

8 Indian <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 60.00%<br />

9 Diamond World India 61.50%<br />

10 The Jewelry Magazine India 63.60%<br />

11 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> Magazine UK 66.70%<br />

12 National Jeweler USA 68.30%<br />

13 Solitaire Magazine Singapore 70.00%<br />

14 JCK USA 72.70%<br />

15 Instore Magazine USA 73.40%<br />

16 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y World Australia 92.30%<br />

17 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Focus UK NO DATA<br />

18 Preziosa Magazine Italy NO DATA<br />

19 The New <strong>Jeweller</strong> UAE / India NO DATA<br />

20 Canadian <strong>Jeweller</strong> Canada NO DATA<br />

21 The Retail Jeweler USA NO DATA<br />

22 Gold Book Magazine Turkey NO DATA<br />

23 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Monthly UK NO DATA<br />

24 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Network South Africa NO DATA<br />

25 Bangkok Gems & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Thailand NO DATA<br />

26 Solitaire International Singapore NO DATA<br />

27 Jewel Trendz India NO DATA<br />

28 Hong Kong <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Magazine Hong Kong NO DATA<br />

29 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Time New Zealand NO DATA<br />











(IN MINUTES)<br />





BOUNCE<br />

RATE<br />

1 Idex* Israel 3.50<br />

2 Rapaport Magazine* USA 1.70<br />

1 Rapaport Magazine* USA 02:25<br />

2 Idex* Israel 02:19<br />

1 Rapaport Magazine* USA 60.60%<br />

2 Idex* Israel 75.80%<br />

All data collated as at 31 December 2021

On The Market<br />

1 2 3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

APRIL<br />

Product<br />

Spotlight<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>’s monthly compiled<br />

snapshot of the latest and greatest<br />

products to hit the market.<br />

6 7<br />

8<br />

1 ANIA HAIE | Duraflex Group This stunning and simple chain is complete with three turquoise-colour stones, lined up for a modern twist on turquoise jewellery. The perfect piece to elevate your everyday<br />

ring game, this signet-style turquoise stone ring is complete with a chunky square cut turquoise-colour stone. 2 SAPPHIRE DREAMS | Sams Group The Marcella Dream Ring showcases an exquisite<br />

radiant cut 2.88-carat, teal Australian sapphire. It is surrounded by a striking halo of 18 white diamonds and set in 18-carat white and yellow gold. 3 FURLA | Designa Accessories Furla's striking 32<br />

mm round watch sits on a hammered bracelet framed by a stone-set rose-gold tone case. The dial is made of black mother-of-pearl with stone markers and the Furla Arch logo. Available in gold and silver.<br />

4 MARK MCASKILL Be swept away by this diamond celebration ring set in 950 platinum, featuring 53 brilliant white diamonds equalling approximately 3.53 carats. 5 DESERT ROSE | Ellendale Diamonds<br />

This 18-carat white androse gold trilogy statement ring features round diamond F VVS 0.72 carats, and two bezel set pear-cut Argyle pink diamonds that are 6PP SIAV totalling 0.122 carats. 7 CALVIN KLEIN<br />

| MGDL Calvin Klein's gold mesh light champagne dial unisex watch is part of a new line aimed at the youthful and trendy. The model is also water resistant (3ATM) in a 35mm ionic thin gold plated steel case.<br />

8 STONES AND SILVER New 925 sterling silver unisex ID bracelets feature a curb chain. Available in a 21cm bracelet with engraving plates sized 6mm x 38mm or larger at 8mm x 40mm.

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10 Years Ago<br />

Time Machine: <strong>April</strong> 2012<br />

A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

Historic Headlines<br />

4 Overseas travel affects retail spending<br />

4 Angelina gets dazzling diamond<br />

4 iWedding: De Beers launch new bridal app<br />

4 Michael Hill Australian sales fall<br />

4 Records Tumble at Hong Kong <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Show<br />

Australian watchmakers take<br />

a stand<br />

A movement has started to maintain Australian<br />

watchmakers’ rights to access Swiss watch<br />

parts, with more than 1,000 people already<br />

showing their support.<br />

The group, Save-The-Time.org, is responding to<br />

the growing restriction of distribution of watch<br />

parts from major Swiss watch companies to<br />

independent jewellers.<br />

Save-The-Time.org spokesperson Nicholas Hacko<br />

said that when a number accounts of watchmakers<br />

who had worked with some major Swiss brands<br />

for decades, one almost 50 years, were closed<br />

as of <strong>April</strong> 1 a group of Australian watch makers<br />

decided enough was enough and took to the<br />

internet to seek support.<br />

Hacko says that in the three weeks since the group<br />

has been flooded with support, with more than<br />

1,000 people already signing petitions to take to the<br />

ACCC in an attempt to force the Swiss companies<br />

to share the parts required to repair watches.<br />

Possible end to De Beers<br />

antitrust case<br />

The US Supreme Court has declined to hear<br />

an appeal in the De Beers antitrust settlement,<br />

which could bring an end to the long running<br />

saga.<br />

The famous case, in which a class action was<br />

brought against De Beers accusing the company<br />

of diamond price fixing, was settled in 2006<br />

and the mining giant was ordered to pay over<br />

$US400 million to both trade and consumer<br />

diamond and diamond jewellery buyers.<br />

However, no one has yet seen a dollar, as class<br />

action lawyers demand alterations to the<br />

settlement.<br />

<strong>April</strong> 2012<br />

ON THE COVER Braun Watches<br />

Editor’s Desk<br />

4Euro trash: “How many American<br />

jewellery brands can you name<br />

compared to European brands?<br />

Why are more EuroBrands marching<br />

Down Under?<br />

The rest of the world may march to the<br />

beat of America’s drum when it comes<br />

to music, fashion, fast food, electronics,<br />

sportswear, television and a swathe of<br />

other areas, however, when it comes to<br />

high-end jewellery, the US doesn’t count.<br />

The European brands have dominated<br />

the local market recently … perhaps;<br />

generally speaking, US jewellery<br />

designs are too loud for the average<br />

Australian consumer.<br />

Soapbox<br />

4 Get involved in your industry :<br />

“It doesn’t matter where you go,<br />

everyone has an opinion based on<br />

their experiences within the trade, and<br />

rightly so. Some shrug their shoulders<br />

with defeat stating there is nothing<br />

they can do to change the current<br />

situation, or they are simply tired of it.<br />

Others divulge their opinion but don’t<br />

attend meetings to put this attitude to<br />

good use. ”<br />

– Lee-Anne Minturn - President,<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Industry Association in New<br />

Zealand.<br />


Why customer service is like dating<br />

We do not really sell the products on the<br />

shelf we sell customer service. This is<br />

what sets one store apart from others.<br />

Customer service should be viewed as an<br />

exercise in problem solving: customers<br />

come into the store with a need; it is the<br />

staff’s job to solve the problem by finding<br />

something that meets that need.<br />

Australians learn from<br />

diamond master<br />

Members of Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s took<br />

workplace training to another level last<br />

month when they were given a chance to<br />

work one-on-one with Gabi Tolkowsky.<br />

The members were given a hands-on lesson<br />

in diamond polishing from the iconic diamond<br />

cutter in Antwerp, polishing a facet each on a<br />

piece of rough diamond under his supervision.<br />

The jewellers who were selected for the<br />

master classes were also some of the first<br />

jewellers in the world to be appointed as<br />

stockists of Tolkowsky’s most recent diamond<br />

cut, the ‘Astralis’.<br />

Gold Coast jewellery store<br />

ransacked<br />

A Gold Coast jewellery store has been raided<br />

in a brazen smash and grab theft with up to<br />

$500,000 in stock stolen.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> last reported on a store robbery<br />

when a methodical gang of thieves executed<br />

a meticulous and hi-tech theft from a<br />

jewellery retailer in Western Australia. While<br />

by comparison the looting at Bundall’s CTJ<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y seemed reckless and brutal, it<br />

proved just as effective.<br />

CCTV footage shows three men smashing<br />

down CTJ <strong>Jeweller</strong>y’s glass doors with a<br />

sledgehammer at 7:20pm on March 22.<br />

The thieves then shattered glass display<br />

cabinets with crowbars and snatched<br />

handfuls of stock, ultimately filling two<br />

sports bags with jewellery.<br />



26 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong>

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Behind every gemstone,<br />

there is a fascinating story<br />

waiting to delight clients<br />

around the world. Studying<br />

with GAA brings the<br />

expertise, networking and<br />

confidence to build a solid<br />

career in a multimilliondollar<br />

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Be<br />

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Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts<br />

and consumers about gemstones

Pearls Part I: Freshwater<br />

Above: Pacharee; Blue Nile; Mizuki<br />

Below: GIA; Mizuki<br />

Pearls – an organic gem - have been<br />

revered pieces of treasure for thousands<br />

of years, having adorned the necks of<br />

nobility spanning across Persia, Babylon,<br />

Egypt, Rome, and beyond.<br />

Before cultured pearls became<br />

commercially available at the beginning of<br />

the 20th century, all pearl jewellery featured<br />

natural pearls formed from wild molluscs.<br />

Top quality pearls were highly expensive<br />

and mostly reserved for royalty and the<br />

exorbitantly wealthy.<br />

When an irritant enters a pearl-producing<br />

mollusc, the mollusc enlists a defence<br />

mechanism in which it coats the irritant<br />

in thousands of microscopic layers of its<br />

nacre, which become the pearl.<br />

Cultured pearls are pearls that have grown<br />

over a bead nucleus or tissue irritant that<br />

humans have intentionally placed into<br />

the mollusc. This can be done in various<br />

species of mollusc, in both marine and<br />

freshwater environments.<br />

Natural freshwater pearls are currently<br />

very rare, with most known localities now<br />

protected by law.<br />

Throughout history, natural freshwater<br />

pearls have been found in most countries<br />

all over the world, though the United<br />

States was once one of the larger<br />

producers. Scotland is another important<br />

historical source.<br />

The GIA and other institutions are<br />

currently developing techniques for the<br />

DNA barcoding of freshwater pearls, to<br />

understand them better and identify them.<br />

The culturing of freshwater pearls initially<br />

began in Lake Biwa, Japan during the<br />

1920s. It was in the freshwater mussel<br />

Hyriopsis schlegeli at Lake Biwa where<br />

the successful cultivation of pearls with<br />

mantle tissue alone (instead of a bead<br />

nucleus) was achieved.<br />

A combination of pollution issues and an<br />

improvement in quality of pearls coming<br />

from China saw the collapse of the oncebooming<br />

production at Lake Biwa. Today,<br />

cultured freshwater pearls are largely<br />

grown in ponds, lakes, and rivers in China.<br />

Compared with other pearl varieties,<br />

freshwater pearls have a particularly large<br />

range of sizes, from as little as


Local Talent<br />

E.G.ETAL<br />


OF EIGHT<br />

Bizancio Earrings<br />

Metals: Blackened<br />

sterling silver,<br />

9-carat yellow gold<br />

Gemstone: Pearl<br />

Juan Castro<br />

Melbourne, VIC<br />


Binary Star Diamond<br />

Ring and Sky Away<br />

Necklace<br />

Metal: 9-carat yellow gold<br />

Gemstone: White diamond<br />

Anitra Metzler<br />

Sydney, NSW<br />

ARBOR<br />


Alliance Seven<br />

Stack Ring<br />

Metal: Sterling silver,<br />

9-carat yellow gold,<br />

18-carat white gold<br />

Gemstones: White<br />

diamond, black<br />

diamond<br />

Cass Partington<br />

Melbourne, VIC<br />

Australia and New Zealand are not only home to some of the<br />

rarest gemstones in the world, but also the most talented jewellers.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> showcases a tapestry of local masterpieces that have been<br />

meticulously crafted with great artisanship, right here on home soil<br />



Ruby and Carre<br />

Cut Diamond<br />

Dress Ring<br />

Metal: 18-carat<br />

white gold<br />

Gemstones: Ruby,<br />

diamond<br />

Jeffrey Einstein<br />

Sydney, NSW<br />




Aquamarine and<br />

Diamond Rose<br />

Gold Ring<br />

Metal: 18-carat<br />

white gold and<br />

18-carat rose gold<br />

Gemstones:<br />

Aquamarine, pink<br />

diamond<br />

Samantha Nordhoff<br />

Perth, WA<br />

30 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Nelumbo Nucifera<br />

Ring & Earrings<br />

Metals: Sterling silver,<br />

gold vermeil<br />

Gemstone: lemon<br />

citrine, blue sapphires<br />

Aaron Seymour<br />

Perth, WA<br />


Fern Brooch<br />

Metals: Sterling silver<br />

Jewel Beetle (Allison<br />

Judge and Yvon<br />

Smits)<br />

Nelson, NZ<br />

Add Rapid to<br />

your Bench<br />

Are you looking for a<br />

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Pot Plant Brooch<br />

Metal: Yellow-gold,<br />

silver<br />

Gemstone: Sapphires<br />

Emma Kidson<br />

Wagga Wagga, NSW<br />

We Cast In-house<br />

From injected,<br />

carved and<br />

3D Printed Waxes.<br />

Send us your waxes.


Russian Ukraine Conflict<br />

THE<br />



The Ukraine conflict and the resulting sanctions<br />

on Russia have had a major impact on the<br />

international diamond industry. ROBERT BOUQUET<br />

analyses the affect on the distribution pipelines<br />

and what’s in store for the jewellery sector.<br />

Luminous Diamonds | Alrosa<br />

32 | March 2021


Alrosa's<br />

Record Roughs<br />


242-carats<br />

White Diamond<br />

February 2021<br />

'The Spectacle' is Alrosa's<br />

largest polished white<br />

diamond. The 100.94-carat<br />

rectangular step-cut diamond<br />

was sold at Christie's in May 2021<br />

for US $14.1 million.<br />

It seems like only yesterday that I was reporting<br />

that the diamond trading centres had<br />

kicked-off the year in a bullish mood and<br />

that there were significant price increases at the<br />

most recent De Beers’ ‘sight’ and that “Alrosa is<br />

expected to follow suit”.<br />

Over the past two years and during the pandemic I had<br />

predicted the diamond industry would recover to much<br />

better times as economies revive, consumer spending<br />

accelerates and demand for the one product that provides<br />

the ultimate expression of love matches the level of<br />

emotional response and outpouring that the world<br />

understandably feels the need to make after COVID-19.<br />

It was only three months ago I concluded that <strong>2022</strong> was<br />

going to be exciting. The industry had a lot of opportunity in<br />

front of it, mining companies were facing a potential bumper<br />

year and the trade must be careful in maintaining margins<br />

throughout the pipeline.<br />

Even though the diamond industry was facing a rosy period,<br />

I also noted that it faced risk on the macroeconomic side,<br />

including geopolitical threats between Russia and the West<br />

over Ukraine. I also noted seemingly worsening relations<br />

between China and the West and increasing energy costs.<br />

I concluded by saying: “Hopefully, none of these issues will<br />

destabilise the positive momentum of the diamond industry;<br />

but these are areas of risk.”<br />

Well, there is no doubt that times have changed.<br />

The current state of play<br />

At the time of writing, the diamond industry is in a confused<br />

state. In recent times the rough diamond segment has<br />

boomed with continuously rising polished prices, diamond<br />

jewellery retail sales surging in the US and recovering in<br />

China; marginal diamond miners performing much better<br />

against a backdrop of seemingly constantly increasing<br />

rough prices.<br />

And yet even though we operate in a unique, exciting and<br />

often dazzling business, we must always remember that the<br />

diamond industry is not immune to external economic and<br />

geopolitical pressures.<br />

Alrosa is the world’s largest producer of rough diamonds<br />

by carats, producing around 32 million carats per annum,<br />

which equates to about 30 per cent of the world supply. It<br />

has the world’s largest diamond reserves (over 1 billion<br />

carats in the ground). The Russian company is expected<br />

236-carats<br />

Intense yellow-brown diamond<br />

August 2020<br />

191.46-carats<br />

White diamond<br />

January 2019<br />

"Sputnik V"<br />

100.53-carats<br />

Yellow diamond<br />

February 2021<br />

"Kyndykan"<br />

91.86-carats<br />

Yellow-brown diamond<br />

January <strong>2022</strong><br />

"Nijinsky"<br />

27.85-carats<br />

Pink diamond<br />

September 2017<br />

to stay in ‘pole position’ as the largest producer for many<br />

years to come.<br />

While there are a number of mining companies operating<br />

in Russia, Alrosa produces more than 90 per cent of all<br />

diamonds. Alrosa also has diamond mining projects in<br />

Angola and exploration development in Zimbabwe, but the<br />

current focus is very much on diamonds being exported<br />

from Russia.<br />

Alrosa is owned 33 per cent by the Russian government,<br />

33 per cent by the Republic of Sakha (in the far east of<br />

Russia, where most of the Russian diamonds are mined)<br />

with the balance being traded on the Moscow Exchange<br />

(Russian stock market).<br />

At the end of February, Alrosa’s share price fell to a low of<br />

68.00 rubles ($US0.62) compared with the 12-month high<br />

of 150 rubles ($US1.37).<br />

Alrosa is the world’s largest producer of rough<br />

diamonds by carats, producing around 32 million<br />

carats per annum, which equates to about<br />

30 per cent of the world supply.<br />

The Russian invasion of Ukraine has created an extremely<br />

volatile and unpredictable situation. It’s a situation that is<br />

certainly out of the hands of the diamond industry itself.<br />

People are dying in Ukraine and for some worrying about<br />

the diamond industry may seem trite.<br />

At the time of publication, sanctions have been further<br />

strengthened against Russian diamond interests. The first<br />

step was sanctions imposed on both Alrosa and its CEO.<br />

The initial sanctions were designed to reduce Russia’s ability<br />

to finance its military operations; in Alrosa’s case specifically<br />

to ‘prohibit transactions and dealings by U.S. persons or<br />

within the United States in new debt of longer than 14 days<br />

maturity and new equity.’<br />

This meant that Alrosa was initially prevented from raising<br />

funds over a period of more than 14 days. But what did this<br />

mean in practice?<br />

It actually meant that the sales of rough could still take<br />

place; and sales are still taking place. Some transactions<br />

are being made in alternative currencies such as rubles or<br />

euros - this was an option that Alrosa had been previously<br />

considering offering to its clients anyway.<br />

Rough diamonds can be shipped using different methods<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 33

Russian Ukraine Conflict | DIAMOND FEATURE<br />


1. 2. 3. 4. 5.<br />



30.78 MILLION CARATS<br />




17.03 MILLION CARATS<br />

HEADQUARTERED IN England &<br />

Australia<br />



Data as at January 2020<br />


Russia<br />

Botswana<br />

Canada<br />

Congo<br />

Australia<br />

South Africa<br />

Angola<br />

Zimbabwe<br />

Namibia<br />

Sierra Leone<br />

Source: The Kimberley Process (2020); theglobaleconomy.com<br />



India $7,022,346,717 6,227,690 $1,127.60<br />

Israel $3,466,975,554 1,148,337 $3,019.13<br />

Belgium $1,484,126,309 301,259 $4,926.41<br />

Switzerland $645,757,833 9,434 $68,450.06<br />

South Africa $493,867,084 25,020 $19,738.89<br />

Russia $259,385,207 35,949 $7,215.37<br />

Botswana $139,966,897 22,051 $6,347.42<br />

UAE $111,982,292 27,786 $4,030.17<br />

Australia $61,481,172 23,799 $2,583.35<br />

Hong Kong $56,142,439 24,897 $2,254.99<br />

Source: edahngolan.com/diamond-statistics (2020)

Alrosa's gem-quality stones which<br />

also include a 242-carat rough.<br />

and routes, even looking for more ‘friendly’ transit points.<br />

However, Alrosa is not able to raise equity, or cash and debt for capital<br />

investments such as mining project development. However, this is an<br />

issue for the longer-term, and not the immediate future.<br />

The shipping of polished ‘on memo’ is also hampered; but this is not a<br />

major component of the Russian diamond trade and is more of a longerterm<br />

issue anyway, if it’s at all significant.<br />

Many people within the diamond and jewellery industry, as well as those<br />

external to it, are asking: “Should the entire global trade of all rough from<br />

Russia be blocked immediately?”.<br />

It is actually hard to see how it can be fully stopped globally; and who<br />

would actually make that decision. This is a truly multi-national industry.<br />

Polished versus Rough<br />

Rough diamonds have Kimberley Process (KP) certificates and therefore<br />

have clear provenance (for their first export) of origin and a chain of<br />

custody; most polished diamonds do not. I will come back to polished<br />

diamonds later, but first let me address the matter of rough.<br />

Probably the only workable mechanism, if the industry chooses to act,<br />

is to use the Kimberley Process to stop issuing certificates for rough<br />

diamonds, which would therefore stop the ability for anyone to export<br />

rough diamonds to any country outside of Russia.<br />

At the time of writing, that decision had not been taken, as far as I<br />

am aware.<br />

Although I suspect that a KP ban on Russian diamond exports might<br />

be being discussed behind closed doors already it will certainly<br />

require international agreement by the participating member<br />

governments of the KP if this next step in blocking Russian diamonds<br />

is indeed going to happen.<br />

Other diamond producers might see the current situation as an<br />

opportunity to increase prices for their non-Russian goods and lobby<br />

for a ban on Russian rough. This may well be happening behind the<br />

scenes. It has been said, never waste a crisis, and that is true when it<br />

comes to your competitor!<br />

The lobbying will certainly be happening in the spheres of the far more<br />

influential oil and gas producers globally. To put things into some sort of<br />

perspective, Russian rough diamonds might equate to $US4-5 billion in a<br />

good year; this is minimal in comparison to Russian oil and gas.<br />

Russia is among the world's largest producers of both crude oil and<br />

dry natural gas – and the figures relating to these industries dwarf the<br />

diamond industry by comparison.<br />

Typically, Russian oil exports account for triple the amount of revenue<br />

compared to its gas. Logically Russia will seek new markets for its oil<br />

and gas, China being one obvious option. Supply shortages, high levels of<br />

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Russian Ukraine Conflict | DIAMOND FEATURE<br />

'The Spirit of the Rose' is Alrosa's<br />

prized polished pink diamond<br />

that sold for US$26.6 million at a<br />

Sotheby's auction. The 14.83-carat<br />

Type IIa Fancy Vivid Purple-Pink<br />

diamond is internally flawless and<br />

cut from a 27.85-carat rough.<br />

Above: Alrosa’s Jubilee pipe in in Yakutia, northeast Russia.<br />

inflation and recession, and maybe even economic depression<br />

are potentially at play here.<br />

Therefore, while Russian diamond exports are nowhere near<br />

oil and gas, they are not unimportant; diamond exports is<br />

still a large number for the industry itself and in the wider<br />

sanctions issue - especially for what is ultimately a nonessential,<br />

luxury item.<br />

Probably the only workable mechanism is to use<br />

the Kimberley Process to stop issuing certificates for<br />

rough diamonds, which would therefore stop the<br />

ability for anyone to export rough diamonds to any<br />

country outside of Russia.<br />

The second development that has happened is an executive<br />

order issued by the President of the United States prohibiting<br />

the import of ‘non-industrial’ Russian diamonds.<br />

This is a more direct attempt to stop the flow of Russian<br />

diamonds into the US, however as with all these things, it<br />

is not so straightforward. It is important to understand the<br />

practicality of this move.<br />

Firstly, very little Russian rough actually makes its way<br />

directly to the US. There is minimal rough trading there,<br />

and very little diamond polishing. For example, only the<br />

very best stones might be polished in New York.<br />

So the ban on what is in effect less than one per cent of<br />

Alrosa’s revenue is more symbolic than consequential. To<br />

give a perspective here, 35 per cent of Alrosa rough sales<br />

are made in Europe (Antwerp in Belgium is a major rough<br />

trading centre).<br />

Polished is more complicated; the US is the largest consumer<br />

market for diamond jewellery at around 40 per cent of global<br />

diamond jewellery sales. Therefore, Russian diamonds –<br />

remembering that Russia accounts for 30 per cent of the<br />

annual international diamond production – certainly end up in<br />

US retail stores and on the fingers of American women.<br />

Yet, with few exceptions, polished diamonds are untraceable<br />

back to their origin, which means it is difficult to see how the<br />

US President’s executive order can work in practice.<br />

The trade may seek to avoid ‘Russian’ polished however<br />

around 95 per cent of the world’s diamonds are polished<br />

in India and cannot necessarily be identified as being<br />

produced from Alrosa rough.<br />

36 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong><br />


Alrosa in Numbers<br />

1992<br />

Alrosa's<br />

established date<br />

90%<br />

of Russia's diamond<br />

mining is controlled<br />

by Alrosa<br />

66%<br />

is state-owned by<br />

Russia, Yakutia and<br />

Yakut regions<br />

31.2 million<br />

carats of diamonds<br />

were mined by<br />

Alrosa in 2020<br />

30%<br />

of the world's supply<br />

of diamonds come<br />

from Russia<br />

$4.2 billion<br />

is Alrosa's total<br />

sales of rough and<br />

polished diamonds<br />

in 2021<br />

The industry is watching carefully as things develop but it is<br />

clear that the only truly effective way to impact the Russian<br />

diamond industry is to stop the flow of Russian rough with a<br />

global block on its movement.<br />

The market reacts<br />

So if we look at how the trade is reacting to these<br />

developments the first thing that seems to be happening is an<br />

immediate sense of market uncertainty. And all markets hate<br />

uncertainty!<br />

The rough market was very strong before the Russian invasion<br />

of Ukraine. In some cases prices had doubled (or even more)<br />

in certain categories, but now it has taken a jolt back.<br />

It should be said that the rough market was overheating<br />

anyway and had to contract at some point, so the conflict in<br />

Ukraine has coincided with an expected contraction. That said,<br />

readers should be aware that rough prices are still extremely<br />

high. Despite an average price drop of 20 per cent (seen<br />

at some market sales events in the past few weeks) many<br />

diamond categories remain at near-record highs.<br />

The trade may seek to avoid ‘Russian’ polished<br />

however around 95 per cent of the world’s<br />

diamonds are polished in India and cannot<br />

necessarily be identified as being produced<br />

from Alrosa rough.<br />

Today, not only are we dealing with non-typical market<br />

forces, but also a potential major global military conflict.<br />

I expect that significant market and trading volatility will<br />

remain for some time.<br />

Additionally, there is uncertainty over the speed of deliveries<br />

from Russia, and increased market nervousness. Right<br />

now, I still expect much of the Russian rough to reach the<br />

international trading and cutting centres, if not necessarily at<br />

the same price levels. It really is a very unpredictable time.<br />

Given the huge worldwide backlash against Russia – with<br />

many companies, including global luxury brands, ceasing their<br />

activities there, or shutting up shop (temporarily, hopefully);<br />

or boycotts on Russian products, for example vodka being<br />

removed from supermarket shelves – one has to wonder how<br />

diamond sales at a consumer level will be affected.<br />

Polished diamonds originating directly from Russia have<br />

been banned by the US, but nowhere else. Again this is a<br />

small part of the global diamond trade.

Alrosa named a 91.86-carat<br />

yellow-brown rough diamond<br />

'Kyndykan' after a young<br />

indigenous female heroine<br />

who symbolises resilience<br />

and spiritual strength of the<br />

people of Yakutia.<br />

As I have previously noted, most polished diamonds do not have<br />

clear provenance. While some manufacturers and retailers, such<br />

as Tiffany & Co., have clear chains of custody and can guarantee<br />

the origin of their polished stones; most traders, wholesalers,<br />

jewellery manufacturers and retailers cannot provide these<br />

guarantees. That is just a fact.<br />

And so, if the industry wants to try to self-regulate and stop Russianorigin<br />

polished, I can’t see how this could be implemented. If the<br />

consumer refuses to buy Russian polished and demands non-Russian<br />

diamonds, the only option is to buy from those retailers or traders who<br />

can explicitly prove provenance.<br />

The largest risk is that consumers simply refuse to buy any diamonds<br />

due to lack of provenance from most sellers, however, at this point, I<br />

cannot see that happening.<br />

There will also be the economic cost caused by this global instability,<br />

which is bound to impact on luxury spending. With fuel costs hitting<br />

record highs and inflation on the rise, I expect that consumer spending<br />

is sure to be impacted in the short term and we will very likely see a<br />

contraction of spending on luxury items, diamond jewellery included.<br />

What next for the diamond industry?<br />

While the conflict in Ukraine continues there is a risk of a downturn,<br />

including reduced consumer spending. It is possible that 30 per cent<br />

of the world’s supply may be boycotted, which could benefit the<br />

suppliers of the remaining 70 per cent.<br />

I must say, this was not how I foresaw a modern, competitive 21stcentury<br />

global diamond industry existing and operating. Did anyone?<br />

The level of uncertainty around the world offers a conundrum: at<br />

the same time rough and polished prices are at record highs and<br />

luxury spending was booming as the world ‘exited’ the pandemic;<br />

for now our industry still shines brightly. Diamond mining and<br />

manufacturing does a lot of good around the world and brings<br />

a lot of joy to millions of people.<br />

History shows that it always bounces back after global setbacks.<br />

We shall have to wait and see what happens next. Once the Ukraine<br />

conflict is over - and hopefully it will be soon and doesn’t worsen<br />

- there will always be other macro-economic challenges for the<br />

diamond industry to navigate, but hopefully the world will be on a<br />

firmer and less troubled footing.<br />

ROBERT BOUQUET has more than 25 years of experience in<br />

the diamond industry, working across mining and exploration<br />

companies, marketing firms, and as a consultant. Based in<br />

Antwerp, he now shares his insights into the global diamond<br />

pipeline as part of the Natural Color Diamond Association.


XX<br />

Employees who make excuses to hide<br />

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XX<br />

Employees who make excuses to hide<br />

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ELIZABETH BOYD reports.<br />

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derive a tremendous sense of professional<br />

accomplishment from possessing an<br />

elevated level of personal accountability and<br />

are committed and authentic truth-tellers.<br />

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make decisions good and bad then endure<br />

the consequences of those decisions. Why is<br />

there an overwhelming compulsion in retail<br />

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The matter is made worse when retail<br />

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such as what is currently being experienced.<br />

WATCH<br />


Unification or Division?<br />


Baselworld was once a symbol of global unity, offering a space for<br />

Psychologists place excuse making in the watch industry at large to gather annually. MARTIN FOSTER<br />

the category of self-handicapping – it’s explains that in a post-pandemic world, such a unity between<br />

a behaviour that hurts performance, Swiss and international brands may never be seen again.<br />

motivation and professional reputation.<br />

It serves as a distraction that prevents the<br />

XX<br />

Inhorgenta Munich 2020<br />

September 2018 <strong>Jeweller</strong> 39

Above: Crowds gathered for was to be the last Baselword in 2019 before the pandemic.<br />

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W<br />

e are witnessing the strong return of confidence<br />

of the luxury watch industry in Europe and<br />

globally as we learn how to handle the twists<br />

qand turns of the pandemic.<br />

However, travel to the industry trade fairs for both retailers and suppliers<br />

to see the newest products and latest collections remains, in some cases,<br />

fraught with the politically inept decisions taken by those in power.<br />

The fairs and exhibition organisers are still sorting out how best to protect<br />

themselves, while the exhibiting brands, visitors and the media are still<br />

assessing what the future holds.<br />

At the end of January, with only eight weeks to go, Watches and Wonders<br />

in Geneva formally confirmed it would proceed with the spray of<br />

scheduled promo events in Geneva from 30 March – 5 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong>.<br />

A revamped Baselworld was abandoned in late November when MCH<br />

Group management announced that “Baselworld spring <strong>2022</strong> will not<br />

take place” and that it had “decided to take more time for the launch of<br />

the new concept”.<br />

We should note here that from the retrospective viewpoint of the retail<br />

buyers, distributing agents as well as the international media, Baselworld<br />

was a complete experience and an enjoyable event in all respects. It had<br />

traditionally catered for all exhibitors, large and small, and generally<br />

provided the exposure, which is central to the raison d’être of trade fairs.<br />

That said, it is the third consecutive year that the world’s once premier<br />

jewellery and watch exhibition has been cancelled.<br />

The organisers at Baselworld know the world has changed since it first<br />

canceled the show in 2020 because of COVID-19, but the truth is you can<br />

read a lot more into the future of Baselworld based on the statement on<br />

the organiser’s website.<br />

“This decision [to cancel Baselworld <strong>2022</strong>] is based on the one hand on<br />

the experience gained from the Pop Up Event at the Geneva Watch Days<br />

and on intensive discussions with manufacturers and retailers.<br />

“On the other hand, it takes into account the fact that it is particularly<br />

difficult to launch a new concept for a new target segment due to the<br />


EST. 1981<br />



Above: The 2021 Watches and Wonders Shanghai was a new opportunity for watch companies to connect again.<br />

renewed aggravation of the COVID situation and<br />

the associated uncertainty among customers,”<br />

the statement reads.<br />

It goes onto explain that a MCH Group<br />

interdisciplinary team will “analyse the<br />

target segments and, in close exchange with<br />

manufacturers and retailers, make a deep dive<br />

into their marketing and transaction needs. We<br />

hope to come back to you soon with new and<br />

positive news about the future of Baselworld.”<br />

There has been much written about how<br />

Baselworld came to such an ignominious ‘end’,<br />

or at least dire predicament, however this is now<br />

obscured by the nonsense of how it would or could<br />

be relaunched with digital meetings, on-screen<br />

touch-and-feel product launches, digital lunches,<br />

and 24/7 meetings.<br />

However, as has previously been documented,<br />

much of the demise of the once magnificent<br />

event lies at the feet the city of Basel and it’s local<br />

businesses which treated the 120,000 annual<br />

visitors to the fair as defenseless cash-cows.<br />

They were gouged on a relentless scale, at the<br />

same time as the fair management mishandled<br />

the interests and exhibition fees of its clients.<br />

Therefore, any defence of the status quo was<br />

thin on the ground when the disgruntled big end<br />

of town – Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tudor, Chanel,<br />

and Chopard – abruptly withdrew their historic<br />

support for the fair.<br />

So, after three cancellations and the turmoil<br />

before COVID-19, resulting in the various<br />

walkouts by the prestigious brands, what<br />

does the future hold for Baselworld?<br />

Perhaps that question has already been answered<br />

– though not announced – and a better question<br />

now is: what does the future hold for one, allencompassing<br />

international watch exhibition?<br />

Rest assured if any version of Baselworld<br />

re-emerges at some future date then it will be a<br />

very different experience - even if for all the wrong<br />

reasons. That said, most industry pundits believe<br />

it’s most unlikely that Baselworld will survive the<br />

wreckage inflicted on this once fine, historical and<br />

significant event.<br />

If correct, the Swiss should acknowledge the old<br />

adage: greed, in the end, fails even the greedy!<br />

The international watch market will continue,<br />

and some argue, thrive without Baselworld, in<br />

a post-COVID world; but what might it look like?<br />

Well, for a start, forget the nonsense of virtual<br />

exhibitions and hybrid shows!<br />

For a start, there are a number of smaller, more<br />

‘exclusive’ events, which have emerged to fill the<br />

needs of face-to-face, ‘hands-on’ assessment of<br />

new timepieces, even if they provide only limited<br />

PR to help the brands to endure the uncertainty in<br />

a post-pandemic world.<br />

A case in point is The London Watch Show with<br />

84 exhibitors scheduled over two days in late<br />

March. Additionally, a third exhibition in Geneva<br />

called Time to Watches with 50 exhibiting brands<br />

was also announced. It is scheduled for 31 March<br />

to 3 <strong>April</strong> and is located only 10 minutes away<br />

from Watches and Wonders’ Palexpo venue.<br />

Of course, these smaller shows are not on the<br />

scale of the once mighty Baselworld or the luxury<br />

focus of Watches and Wonders (SIHH), which<br />

takes over Geneva for a week in <strong>April</strong>. Nor are<br />

they intended to be.<br />

However, there already is evidence that a Basel-<br />

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like ‘disease’ may be developing in Geneva with some hotels doubling<br />

prices leading up to, and during, the Watches and Wonders dates.<br />

Greed can be contagious, especially when unacknowledged.<br />

This begs the question: is it time to get the Swiss watch brands out of<br />

Switzerland for their annual presentations of new product?<br />

Would the industry be better served to defocus on Switzerland as the<br />

only place to host the most important annual trade event?<br />

For a start, it’s important to ‘divorce’ the industry from – what has<br />

become a predominant Swiss ‘sport’ – of financially gouging your own<br />

customers and show visitors each year, before you have sold one watch?<br />

Accepting that there should be one pivotal event on which the global<br />

watch industry can focus annually, perhaps the attention should now shift<br />

to Germany’s Inhorgenta Munich Show.<br />

Inhorgenta announced that it would shift its dates this year – from<br />

February to 8-11 <strong>April</strong> – to give it a better chance of proceeding in a far<br />

more benign period of global pandemic restrictions.<br />

And herein lies a potential sleeping giant; Inhorgenta is perfectly placed<br />

to step into Baselworld’s shoes.<br />

It is a Baselworld-style trade fair with the capacity of the same scale.<br />

It offers six modern spacious halls and is assisted by an experienced and<br />

stable organiser and management team offering ideal opportunities for<br />

both large and small exhibitors.<br />

There already is evidence that a Basel-like ‘disease’ may be<br />

developing in Geneva with some hotels doubling prices leading<br />

up to, and during, the Watches and Wonders dates.<br />

Greed can be contagious, especially when unacknowledged.<br />

Above: 2021 London Watch Show.<br />

Better still, Inhorgenta’s <strong>April</strong> dates make it easily possible for the watch<br />

brands, buyers, distributors, and media to travel to Geneva for Watches<br />

and Wonders from 30 March – 6 <strong>April</strong> and then move on to Inhorgenta<br />

Munich two days later. It seems for once some useful logistical thought<br />

went into the planning.<br />

In the same way as Baselworld exhibited watches, jewellery, clocks,<br />

tools, equipment and all the associated branches of these industries,<br />

Inhorgenta currently does the same, albeit with less watch focus.<br />

At the time of writing, there were 280 registered exhibitors for Inhorgenta<br />

<strong>2022</strong>, which translates into a huge potential for new starters to register<br />

even in the short time before the <strong>April</strong> opening.<br />

Inhorgenta provides the ideal landing point for the return of watch brands<br />

exhibitors who have been left stranded by the ‘closure’ of Baselworld.<br />

Prophetically 20 years ago, the then editor of the prestigious Horological<br />

Journal, Timothy Treffry, commented in the February 2002 issue: “The<br />

facilities Inhorgenta has to offer are outstanding. With up to 165,000m² of<br />

contiguous exhibition space and 50,000 hotel rooms within 30 minutes by<br />

underground, Basel’s accommodation problems, in both senses, would<br />

be solved if it moved there.”<br />

Certainly, the potential is now there for Inhorgenta Munich to resume<br />

its place with a strong and significant leadership role in the annual<br />

horological trade fairs calendar.<br />

In ‘normal’ times, there would or could be another option: Hong Kong.<br />

Its annual Watch and Clock Fair traditionally held each September which<br />

could be seen as an opportunity to remove the focus on Switzerland,<br />

however with its recent ‘politics’, along with the impact COVID-19 is<br />

still having on the Chinese territory, the risk would be too great.<br />

You only need to consider that the organiser of the <strong>Jeweller</strong>y & Gem<br />

World (JGW) exhibition has announced that this year’s exhibition will<br />

take place in Singapore, not Hong Kong.<br />

JGW is owned by the London-based Informa Markets and while there is<br />

no doubt that COVID has played a part in the decision to move country,<br />

one must wonder if it’s about testing the waters for future changes, given<br />


<strong>2022</strong>: CALENDAR OF EVENTS<br />

Above: Inhorgenta Munich<br />


11 – 14 February <strong>2022</strong> Inhorgenta Munich Messe München, Munich, Germany<br />

18 -20 March <strong>2022</strong> The London Watch Show City of Westminster, London, England<br />

30 March – 5 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong> Watches & Wonders Geneva Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland<br />

8 –11 June <strong>2022</strong> EPHJ - EPMT - SMT Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland<br />

6 –10 September <strong>2022</strong> Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair HKCEC, Hong Kong<br />


the geopolitical risks of Hong Kong.<br />

At the time of publication, it had been reported that<br />

Hong Kong has the highest death rate per capita in<br />

the world - higher than London, Milan or New York<br />

at the peak of the world’s deadliest global waves.<br />

One in 20 COVID-19 patients are dying. COVID<br />

deaths have reached a level where Hong Kong<br />

has run out of coffins!<br />

An industry divided<br />

While the thought of Baselworld never returning<br />

is not something that people would wish for, the<br />

world has changed to such a degree since early<br />

2020 that following three years of cancellations<br />

and half-hearted attempts at saving the show, it’s<br />

a distinct possibility that Baselworld will go the<br />

way of the dinosaur.<br />

While the thought of the Swiss brands throwing<br />

their weight and support behind a German<br />

show as a step towards filling the gap for one<br />

all-encompassing show to replace Baselworld<br />

is a pipe dream, the industry must consider the<br />

ramifications of the prestigious and high-status<br />

Swiss brands continuing to go it alone – divorced<br />

from the wider industry.<br />

It’s one thing for the pre-eminent brands to set<br />

themselves apart from the rest of the industry<br />

at Baselworld by being located in the famous<br />

Hall 1; at least it was done under the guise of an<br />

international event.<br />

The separation was part of a celebration of the<br />

entire watch and clock industry and allowed<br />

everyone to be amazed at the beauty of what we do.<br />

The famous US boxer Sugar Ray Leonard said it<br />

best: Within our dreams and aspirations we find<br />

our opportunities.<br />

Baselworld was the opportunity, however I feel<br />

its demise will have far reaching ramifications,<br />

especially if Inhorgenta steps successfully into<br />

the gap.<br />

And if that occurs instead of a unified international<br />

industry we might see it divided; one separated by<br />

an 1,800 kilometre border physically creating two<br />

territories, Switzerland and the rest of the world.<br />

While this has probably been how the actual market<br />

has operated for 100 years, at least Baselworld<br />

allowed, saluted and encouraged one industry,<br />

albeit with two categories - Swiss and the rest.<br />

It’s for all the reasons above that I think there’s<br />

a distinct possibility that the watch world has<br />

changed forever. The demise of Baselworld<br />

could mean there will no longer be one annual<br />

celebration of the international watch industry but,<br />

instead, one celebration of Swiss (in Geneva) and<br />

another for everything else.<br />

We just don’t know where just yet!<br />

MARTIN FOSTER is a freelance journalist and<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>’s resident watch ‘guru’. Based in Sydney,<br />

Martin attends major international exhibitions<br />

covering the watch and timepieces categories.<br />




Watch Showcase<br />

Adidas Original Watches<br />

Designa Accessories<br />

This Code One Chrono watch<br />

combines sporty elegance<br />

with technical functionality.<br />

The timeless round silhouette<br />

hosts a six-hand chronograph,<br />

a 24-hour sub-dial and a<br />

window date, and features the<br />

adidas Originals signature blue<br />

colour. Available also in silver<br />

and black.<br />

designaaccessories.com.au<br />

Baume & Mercier<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

This Riviera model is assertive<br />

yet understated. This watch<br />

is a feminine version of the<br />

Riviera Automatic in steel with<br />

a titanium bezel. It echoes<br />

the men’s model presented<br />

this year, with a steel case, a<br />

titanium bezel, a ring in goldplated<br />

PVD, a self-winding<br />

movement and integrated<br />

steel strap.<br />

dgau.com.au/baume-mercier<br />

Brand & Distributor Update<br />

Bulova<br />

Citizen<br />

The latest Bulova’s Archive<br />

Series gets a stylish update.<br />

Features a proprietary<br />

high-performance quartz<br />

technology, 6-hand<br />

chronograph movement, antireflective<br />

domed sapphire<br />

crystal and is water resistent<br />

(WR50). This striking men’s<br />

watch is reminiscent of the<br />

1970s, instantly becoming a<br />

collector’s piece you’ll want<br />

to wear every day.<br />

au.bulova.com<br />

There has been a great deal of change in the watch market<br />

over the past two years with many companies ceasing<br />

distribution of some brands. <strong>Jeweller</strong> provides an update<br />

on Australia’s leading brands and their latest collections.<br />

Citizen<br />

Citizen<br />

A limited edition fusion of<br />

precision, durability and style,<br />

this watch reflects meticulous<br />

craftsmanship in pursuit of<br />

enduring quality. This watch<br />

is a member of the Citizen<br />

Mechanical Collection. With an<br />

automatic movement, emerald<br />

green dial, stainless steel<br />

bracelet, and striking silver<br />

elements, it is a sophisticated<br />

expression of style.<br />

citizenwatches.com.au<br />

Classique<br />

Sams Group Australia<br />

These elegant, diamond<br />

set Classique watches are<br />

timeless and wearable, made<br />

to be the perfect accessory<br />

for any style. Featuring Swiss<br />

Quartz movement and 63<br />

round brilliant cut diamonds,<br />

these unisex designs are<br />

available in gold, rose gold,<br />

and two-tone plating.<br />


Boccia Titanium Watches<br />

AM Imports<br />

The Wristwatch Melba has a<br />

AppleSkin strap. Stylish and<br />

sustainable; The straps are<br />

vegan, abrasion-resistant and<br />

pleasantly soft.<br />

Boccia titanium watches are<br />

stronger and lighter than steel<br />

watches. Heat and corrosion<br />

resistant, anti magnetic and<br />

hypoallergenic making them<br />

skin friendly. Some models<br />

carry sapphire glass, very<br />

reliable with German design.<br />

amimports.com<br />

Pick your<br />

Colour<br />

You know who you are.<br />

Choose a colour to match.<br />

Calvin Klein<br />

MGDL<br />

The perfect mix of sport and<br />

luxury, this watch is designed<br />

for the modern man who wants<br />

style and function. With a light<br />

gold steel case and black dial,<br />

it's a modern classic. Whether<br />

you're headed to the office or<br />

the gym, this watch will help<br />

you look your best.<br />

mgdldistribution.com.au<br />

Coach<br />

MGDL<br />

This Coach watch is the epitome<br />

of elegance and luxury. The sleek<br />

design is enhanced with a lustrous<br />

mother-of-pearl dial and glittering<br />

crystal markers that make it stand<br />

out from the rest.<br />

mgdldistribution.com.au<br />

Frederique Constant<br />

Citizen<br />

This Code One Chrono watch<br />

combines sporty elegance with<br />

technical functionality. The timeless<br />

round silhouette hosts a six-hand<br />

chronograph, a 24-hour sub-dial<br />

and a window date, and features the<br />

adidas Originals signature blue colour.<br />

Available also in silver and black.<br />

frederiqueconstant.com<br />

March 2021 | 45

Furla Watches<br />

Designa Accessories<br />

Furla Logo Links is<br />

a classic timepiece.<br />

Featuring a 34mm<br />

stainless steel case,<br />

sophisticated rose<br />

gold and stainless<br />

steel duo-tone bracelet<br />

with Furla debossed<br />

onto the t-bar. The dial<br />

carries the Furla logo<br />

monogrammed onto a<br />

silver sunray surface.<br />

Available in gold and<br />

rose gold.<br />

designaaccessories.com.au<br />

Hugo Boss<br />

MGDL<br />

Introducing the<br />

contemporary<br />

chronograph BOSS<br />

watch with a clean<br />

and modern design.<br />

This watch features an<br />

elegant case with thin<br />

lugs and rectangular<br />

shaped pushers. It's<br />

perfect for everyday wear.<br />

mgdldistribution.com.au<br />

Exclusive Distributor of Olivia Burton watches in<br />

Australia & New Zealand<br />

JAG<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

The original Australian<br />

brand with 50 years<br />

of history, starting<br />

on Chapel Street in<br />

Melbourne in 1972. The<br />

seasonal JAG fashion<br />

watch collection<br />

features this 38mm<br />

piece with a black<br />

band made from suede<br />

leather. Waterproof up<br />

to 30 metres.<br />

dgau.com.au/jag<br />

Ph: +61 (3) 9372 1122<br />

info@mgdl.com.au<br />


Guess Watches<br />

Designa Accessories<br />

Be gala ready with this jewellery<br />

statement piece by Guess. This<br />

fashion accessory showcases an all<br />

over gold glitz stone and ball link<br />

bracelet enriched with a crystal<br />

bezel and rhinestone accents.<br />

Available also in silver and rose gold.<br />

designaaccessories.com.au<br />

Tommy Hilfiger<br />

MGDL<br />

Introducing the Tommy Hilfiger<br />

watch, a minimalist timepiece with<br />

a touch of attitude. Whether you're<br />

headed uptown or downtown, this<br />

casual watch is easy to style and<br />

perfect for any occasion.<br />

mgdldistribution.com.au<br />

J Springs<br />

Smart Products<br />

Made in Japan with<br />

attractive practical designs,<br />

robust stainless steel<br />

casings and bands and<br />

accurate reliable mechanical<br />

movements. Named after<br />

a specially developed<br />

hairspring that is a crucial<br />

part of mechanical watches<br />

to bring affordable watches<br />

from Japan to the world.<br />

jspringswatches.com<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Luminox<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

Building on the success<br />

of the 2021 limited edition<br />

models, Luminox and Bear<br />

Grylls kick off <strong>2022</strong> with<br />

their latest collaboration.<br />

A triangulation of survival,<br />

the mantra of 'making<br />

every second count' and<br />

sustainability. The model<br />

boasts a 45mm case<br />

and water resistance to<br />

200 meters with Grylls’<br />

signature orange crown.<br />

luminox.com.au<br />

Exclusive Distributor of Calvin Klein watches in<br />

Australia & New Zealand<br />

Ph: +61 (3) 9372 1122<br />

info@mgdl.com.au<br />


Mondaine<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

Developed in 1944 by the Swiss<br />

Federal Railways for their train<br />

stations, it was first launched by<br />

Mondaine in 1986 as a wristwatch.<br />

The design has stood the test of time<br />

and remained unchanged ever since.<br />

The classic collection impresses with<br />

its meticulously designed case made<br />

out of stainless steel which imparts<br />

a timeless and minimalistic look and<br />

feel. The red crown and the red colour<br />

on the inside of the strap are hidden<br />

design features. This watch is a true<br />

statement: a Swiss original.<br />

dgau.com.au/mondaine<br />

Qlocktwo<br />

Mad & Associates<br />

Qlocktwo tells the 'time<br />

in words' in five minute<br />

increments courtesy of 110<br />

backlit LEDs. Every Qlocktwo<br />

Creators Edition Metamorphite<br />

is created from 350 million year<br />

old slate, painstakingly sliced<br />

less than 3mm thick then<br />

laser cut to reveal the letters.<br />

The natural finish of the slate<br />

means no two are the same.<br />

contact@madassociates.com.au<br />

Exclusive Distributor of Tommy Hilfiger watches in<br />

Australia & New Zealand<br />

Ph: +61 (3) 9372 1122<br />

info@mgdl.com.au<br />

SevenFriday<br />

Mad & Associates<br />

The exoskeleton of the<br />

SEVENFRIDAY Free-D is<br />

achieved by a 3D printing<br />

process to house and protect<br />

the titanium and sapphire<br />

crystal swiss time capsule.<br />

The NFC chip embedded in<br />

the design allows you to link<br />

your watch to the metaverse<br />

with NFT authentication and<br />

a digital artwork collectible.<br />

australia@sevenfriday.com.au<br />


Olivia Burton<br />

MGDL<br />

This enchanting Olivia Burton<br />

watch is sure to add some<br />

buzz to your everyday look.<br />

With its rainbow-hued dial and<br />

crystal-embellished wings, it's<br />

a whimsical way to stay on time.<br />

With its delicate engravings and<br />

beautiful rose gold mesh strap,<br />

it's sure to turn heads.<br />

mgdldistribution.com.au<br />



Ringers Western<br />

Sams Group Australia<br />

The Outback Watch comes<br />

in a range of metals and<br />

bands, both stainless steel<br />

and leather. Designed to be<br />

durable, eye-catching and<br />

suitable for all lifestyles and<br />

tastes, this watch features<br />

water resistance up to 100<br />

metres, a stainless-steel<br />

frame and anti-smash glass.<br />

ringerswestern.com<br />

Meister Singer<br />

Mad & Associates<br />

The Stratoscope. A photo realistic<br />

luminescent moon traverses<br />

the fume dial. This romantic<br />

complication takes precisely 29<br />

days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and<br />

29 seconds to indicate the phase<br />

of the moon and is powered by a<br />

Swiss automatic movement. Time is<br />

indicated by a single hand pointing to<br />

one of 144 five minute markers.<br />

contact@madassociates.com.au<br />

E Sales@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199

The Electricianz<br />

Mad & Associates<br />

The SteelZ catches the light<br />

while the rose gold touches<br />

illuminate the dial from within.<br />

The light play levels up with<br />

a touch of the pusher at 2,<br />

bathing the dial in amber light<br />

from 5 LEDs for ultimate night<br />

vision. Designed in Switzerland.<br />

contact@madassociates.com.au<br />

Timex Watches<br />

Designa Accessories<br />

Provides a modern take on<br />

original design. The 1970s<br />

Q Timex watch made for the<br />

today with modern quartz<br />

technology. Classic meets<br />

modern with a rotating blue<br />

and red bezel on a silver case,<br />

doomed acrylic crystal on<br />

a blue dial, finished with a<br />

black synthetic rubber strap.<br />

Available in silver.<br />

designaaccessories.com.au<br />

TW Steel<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

The new Red Bull Ampol<br />

Racing collection. Powered<br />

by Swiss Made movements<br />

and high-end specs, the three<br />

performance timepieces are<br />

built with racing in mind and at<br />

heart. The limited editions, the<br />

GT13 and SVS310, are powered<br />

by Swiss Made movements:<br />

a Ronda 5030.D chronograph<br />

movement. The VS96 timepiece<br />

is equipped by a Miyota 2415<br />

movement.<br />



COLOUR<br />

FOCUS<br />


Black<br />

&<br />

White<br />

56 RED CARPET<br />


Who dazzled with<br />

these onyx earrings?<br />

Index<br />


Alluring Contrasts<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> examines the captivating realm of black and white<br />

gemstones, exploring the contrasting wonders of everything<br />

from onyx to moonstone under the microscope.<br />

52<br />

53<br />

56<br />

IN DEPTH<br />

Dive into gem trivia<br />


Every hue of white and black<br />


This month’s colours dazzle<br />

Black & White Diamond<br />







Diamond<br />

Greek adamas, meaning 'invincible'<br />

10<br />

2.417 - 2.419<br />

Irradiation, high pressure, heat<br />

Colorless, yellow, brown; rarely white,<br />

black, red, orange, gray, black<br />


8 Popular<br />

Black &<br />

White<br />

Gemstones<br />

White & Black Opal<br />







Hydrated Silica<br />

Sanskrit upala ‘precious stone’<br />

5.0 to 6.6<br />

1.37-1.48<br />

Natural, colour boost, heat, resin,<br />

wax, oil<br />

All colours<br />

Onyx<br />







Moonstone<br />







Labradorite<br />







Quartz<br />

Latin onux, meaning fingernail, claw<br />

6.5 to 7<br />

1.54-1.66<br />

Dye, heat, boiled in acidic honey<br />

Black (primarily), brown, red, white,<br />

grayish blue, green<br />

Feldspar<br />

Named for it's likeness to the moon<br />

6-6.5<br />

1.518-1.525<br />

Natural, Surface Coating<br />

Colorless to White, Gray, Green, Peach,<br />

Brown<br />

Feldspar<br />

Labrador, Canada place of discovery<br />

6-6.5<br />

1.52-1.57<br />

Diffusion, lattice diffusion<br />

White, gray, yellow, or colorless<br />

'Neon' vivid black-white<br />



• Morion<br />

• Black Spinel<br />

• Black Tourmaline<br />

• Mother of Pearl<br />

• Black Star<br />

Sapphire<br />

• Hematite<br />

Obsidian<br />







Black & White Pearl<br />







Chalcedony<br />







Volcanic Glass<br />

Latin, meaning stone of Obsius<br />

5<br />

1.48-1.51<br />

Natural<br />

Black, silver, gold, reddish-brown,<br />

rainbow<br />

Calcium Carbonate<br />

From Latin Perna meaning leg<br />

2.5-3.0<br />

1.52-1.69<br />

Bleach, Irradiation, Dye, Coating<br />

White, Gray, Black, Blue, Green, Orange,<br />

Yellow, Brown, Purple, Pink, Multi<br />

Quartz<br />

From Greek town of Chalcedon in<br />

modern day Turkey<br />

7<br />

1.54 - 1.55<br />

Bleach, Dye, Heat, Coated<br />

pink, blue, grey, red, white, brown, yellow<br />



In Depth<br />



Black and White<br />

Diamond<br />

Brazil<br />

Central African<br />

Republic<br />

Moonstone<br />

Brazil<br />

Germany<br />

India<br />

Madagascar<br />

Mexico<br />

Myanmar<br />

Sri Lanka<br />

Tanzania<br />

USA<br />

Labradorite<br />

Canada<br />

Russia<br />

Australia<br />

Mexico<br />

USA<br />

Madagascar<br />

Black<br />

Tourmaline<br />

Afghanistan<br />

India<br />

Indonesia<br />

Kenya<br />

Madagascar<br />

Mozambique<br />

Namibia<br />

Nigeria<br />

Pakistan<br />

Sri Lanka<br />

Tanzania<br />

United Kingdom<br />

Zambia<br />

Chalcedony<br />

USA<br />

Uruguay<br />

India<br />

Madagascar<br />

Myanmar (Burma)<br />

Mexico<br />

Brazil<br />

South Western Africa<br />


OCEAN<br />

USA<br />

• Mother of Pearl<br />

• Moonstone<br />

• Labradorite<br />

• Onyx<br />

• White & Black Opal<br />

• Morion<br />

Brazil<br />

Madagascar<br />


OCEAN<br />

• Black Tourmaline<br />

• Chalcedony<br />

• Labradorite<br />

• Moonstone<br />

• Jade<br />

• Black Topaz<br />

• Morion<br />

ARCTIC<br />

OCEAN<br />

• Morion<br />

• Onyx<br />

• Obsidian<br />

• White & Black Opal<br />

• Black & White Diamond<br />

• Black Topaz<br />

• Moonstone<br />

• Chalcedony<br />

INDIAN<br />

OCEAN<br />

Australia<br />

India<br />

• Labradorite<br />

• White & Black Opal<br />

• Black & White Pearl<br />

• Onyx<br />

• Morion<br />

White Pearl<br />

China<br />

Japan<br />

French<br />

Polynesia<br />

Australia<br />

Black Pearl<br />

• Onyx<br />


South Sea ocean<br />

• Moonstone OCEAN<br />

waters around<br />

• Chalcedony<br />

French Polynesia<br />

• Black Tourmaline<br />

and the Cook<br />

Islands.<br />

White &<br />

Black Opal<br />

Australia<br />

Mexico<br />

Brazil<br />

Honduras<br />

USA<br />

Americas<br />

Ethiopia<br />

Australia<br />

Onyx<br />

Brazil<br />

India<br />

USA<br />

Australia<br />

Madagascar<br />

Uruguay<br />

Russia<br />

Obsidian<br />

Mexico<br />

Brazil<br />

Ecuador<br />

Iceland<br />

Indonesia<br />

Italy<br />

Japan<br />

Morion<br />

Mozambique<br />

Switzerland<br />

Brazil<br />

USA<br />

Madagascar<br />

Australia<br />

Scotland<br />

Pearl is the only<br />

gemstone to come<br />

from a living<br />

creature<br />

Florida adopted moonstone as its<br />

state gemstone to commemorate<br />

the Apollo 11 moon landing.<br />

All art is<br />

autobiographical; the<br />

pearl is the oyster’s<br />

autobiography.”<br />


A black diamond doesn't<br />

reflect light – it absorbs it.<br />

“I am a black<br />

diamond,<br />

unfaceted.<br />

Black diamonds<br />

are rare,<br />

hard to cut,<br />

and therefore<br />

uncommercial.”<br />


Morion was used<br />

to make some of the<br />

first examples of<br />

sunglasses.<br />

Mother of Pearl<br />

was often sold<br />

to Renaissanceera<br />

pilgrims. It<br />

was favoured by<br />

artisans who carved<br />

religious scenes.<br />

8,000<br />


AGE OF THE<br />


According to legend, the Northern<br />

Lights were once trapped inside the<br />

rocks on the coast of Canada. They<br />

remained there until they were<br />

released by the spear of a great<br />

warrior. The stones left untouched<br />

have an iridescent quality and are<br />

known as labradorite.<br />

In the Victorian era, the<br />

properties of haematite<br />

made it the ideal choice<br />

for carving into cameos,<br />

intaglios for rings, beads,<br />

and figurines. This was often<br />

made to commemorate the<br />

death of a loved one.<br />

733-carats<br />

Is the weight of The Black<br />

Star of Queensland,<br />

the second largest star<br />

sapphire in the world.<br />

During the Victorian era,<br />

people associated onyx with<br />

grief. After Queen Victoria’s<br />

husband died in 1861, her<br />

mourning attire included<br />

statement pieces with onyx.<br />

52 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Colour Investigation<br />


Alluring Contrasts:<br />

Mysterious blacks & whites<br />

Despite their simplicity in colour, black and white gemstones continue to captivate people in many cultures around<br />

the world. <strong>Jeweller</strong> explores the globe to find out which of the black and white gemstone varieties are out there.<br />

Since the dawn of time, people have been fascinated with<br />

contrasts – the existence of opposites and where extremes<br />

become vital elements in the balance of nature.<br />

Such is the case of black and white, the opposites of the<br />

colour and energy spectrum.<br />

In ancient Chinese philosophy, black and white are often<br />

represented by “yin” and “yang” which best describes how<br />

opposites or contrary forces co-exist to establish balance and<br />

maintain the natural order of everything in the universe.<br />

Black and white gemstones hold similar levels of attraction –<br />

and mystery – which makes them popular and sought-after<br />

jewellery pieces.<br />

Black and White diamonds<br />

Considered one of the most precious and hardest materials<br />

on earth, diamonds are typically formed between 150<br />

kilometres beneath the earth’s crust under intense pressure<br />

and temperature.<br />

It is the only gem made from a single element, which is 99.95<br />

per cent carbon and the other 0.05 per cent comprise one or<br />

more trace elements whose atoms are not part of the stone’s<br />

basic chemistry but influences its shape and colour.<br />

The distinctive optical and physical properties of the<br />

diamond enable it to possess the highest possible<br />

lustre among transparent gemstones, also known as<br />

‘adamantine lustre’ after the Greek word ‘Adamas’, which<br />

means ‘invincible’ and which be taken to mean ‘diamondlike’,<br />

given diamond’s hardness.<br />

Black diamonds are known to achieve their colour from<br />

large quantities of minute mineral inclusions such<br />

as pyrite, graphite, or hematite that are distributed<br />

throughout the stone.<br />

53<br />



appearance.<br />

Cartier<br />

QUICK<br />

FACTS<br />

$100 million<br />

price of the world's<br />

largest pearl,<br />

discovered off<br />

the coast of<br />

Palawan Island<br />

70%<br />

of obsidian rock<br />

is made of silica<br />

555.55<br />

carats<br />

weight of<br />

The 'Enigma',<br />

the largest cut<br />

carbano diamond<br />

in the world<br />

These inclusion concentrations are responsible for the<br />

colouration, allowing natural black diamonds to achieve the<br />

colour ranging from near-colourless to brown or olive green.<br />

Typical natural-colour black diamonds are completely<br />

opaque, with a high lustre and achieve an almost metallic<br />

Since these diamonds are heavily included, cutting and<br />

polishing them requires expertise and must be set with<br />

great care.<br />

However, a fine natural-colour black diamond is a beauty<br />

in itself and makes it distinct yet more affordable than<br />

other diamonds.<br />

Most black diamonds used for jewellery have been treated<br />

to induce their colour. Many begin as grey, which is heavily<br />

included and fractured.<br />

The stones are subjected to high-temperature/lowpressure<br />

treatment, which graphitises the fractures to<br />

make them turn black.<br />

Alternatively, artificial irradiation of off-colour diamonds<br />

produces a dark green hue to make them appear black.<br />

On the other hand, the term ‘white’ usually attributed to<br />

colourless diamonds that fall within the D-to-Z colour GIA<br />

scale or chart, is surprisingly not purely white at all.<br />

The hues range from colourless – similar to a drop of<br />

pure water - to clear stones with tints of light yellow,<br />

light brown or grey.<br />

The rarity and value of white diamonds are based partly<br />

on how closely they achieve ‘colourlessness’ - the more<br />

colourless the diamond, the rarer and more expensive it gets.<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 53

Colour Investigation | BLACK & WHITE GEMSTONES<br />

Left to Right: Christie Nicolaides; Verdura; Mateo NY; Chopard; Moon Tree Baby; Verdura<br />

Onyx<br />

For centuries, artisans have carved intricate and<br />

attractive cameos using black and white onyxthe<br />

most popular of which are cabbed or faceted<br />

solid black onyxes.<br />

A type of chalcedony, onyx is a form of<br />

microcrystalline quartz that is distinguished by<br />

its straight, nearly parallel layers or bands of<br />

colour, allowing highly-skilled gem carvers to<br />

work on layers to create intaglios and cameos<br />

with extraordinary depth and contrast.<br />

The most common onyxes are those with white<br />

and black layers. The gems with a black colour<br />

base and a white upper layer are called “true” or<br />

“Arabic onyx.”<br />

The onyx, especially the black variety, was regarded<br />

as a popular gemstone during the Victorian era<br />

(1861-1885), particularly as “mourning” jewellery<br />

and although it still bears the same reputation<br />

in some Western cultures, its dark and opaque<br />

appearance is used to complement clear and<br />

coloured gems – including diamonds - in a variety<br />

of jewellery pieces.<br />

Moonstone<br />

Moonstone is a variety of feldspar composed of two<br />

minerals, orthoclase and albite. The orthoclase<br />

and albite separate into alternating layers during<br />

formation, such that when light falls between these<br />

thin layers the rays get scattered to produce a<br />

phenomenon called adularescence.<br />

Adularescence is the sheen that radiates from<br />

beneath a gem’s surface and appears to move<br />

along with the light source, producing an effect<br />

resembling moonlight on water.<br />

The delicate beauty of the moonstone makes it<br />

one of the most popular gem-quality varieties of<br />

feldspar minerals.<br />

The clarity and colourless appearance of the<br />

moonstone and the blue light intensity of its<br />

adularescence gives the stone a higher value.<br />

A June birthstone, moonstone is revered for<br />

its white and bluish light effect and while it is<br />

somewhat fragile, it is a popular choice as a<br />

centre stone.<br />

Labradorite<br />

Labradorite is a calcium-enriched feldspar mineral<br />

discovered in Labrador, Canada which possesses an<br />

iridescent optical effect known as labradorescence.<br />

The mineral is made of thin and tabular shapes<br />

with colours ranging from purple to grey-blue,<br />

green, yellow, and brown, which has a pearly<br />

lustre and some specimens produce a distinctive<br />

schiller effect.<br />

White labradorite – also commercially known<br />

as rainbow moonstone – is a popular jewellery<br />

piece due to light effects that reflect on a white<br />

background.<br />

Some labradorite varieties are known to<br />

exhibit high degrees of labradorescence called<br />

spectrolite and are among the most preferred<br />

types used for jewellery.<br />

White and black opal<br />

Ancient Romans considered opals as the most<br />

valuable among precious stones since it was<br />

known to have many colours that were also<br />

found in other gemstones.<br />

Opals are known for their unique play-of-colour,<br />

which determines how precious the stone is.<br />

The white or light opal is distinguished as<br />

translucent to semitranslucent, with play-of-colour<br />

against a white or light grey background colour.<br />

While it is considered to be the least expensive<br />

among other precious opal varieties since it is the<br />

most common, it can display any colour of the<br />

spectrum to reflect a beautiful play-of-colour.<br />

On the other hand, the black opal is considered the<br />

most valuable variety of opals due to the stone’s<br />

dark body tone and vibrant play-of-colour.<br />

Distinguished as translucent to opaque, with playof-colour<br />

against a black or other dark background.<br />

Black opals are hard to find and can fetch prices of<br />

up to $AU15,000 per carat.<br />

In the 1980s, Australia became the world’s major<br />

source of opals when mines began commercially<br />

producing the stones.<br />

54 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong>

BLACK & WHITE GEMSTONES | Colour Investigation<br />

Obsidian<br />

Obsidian is a form of natural glass and comes in numerous attractive<br />

varieties. During prehistoric times, people have used obsidian to make<br />

jewellery and carvings as well as cutting tools such as knives and spears.<br />

Commonly found in large pieces, lapidaries frequently cut obsidian into<br />

cabochons, beads, and carvings. The faceted pieces appear dark, except<br />

when cut into small pieces and can be made into delicate jewellery stones.<br />

This most popular variety is the snowflake obsidian which gets its name from<br />

inclusions of snowflake-like spherulites of white cristobalite, frequently used<br />

by jewellery-makers as beads and cabochons.<br />

Pure obsidian is distinguished for its dark appearance, though the colour<br />

varies depending on the impurities found in the stone. Iron and other<br />

elements give the obsidian a dark brown to black colour, while some black<br />

obsidians contain nano inclusions of magnetite- a form of iron oxide.<br />

Only a very few obsidian specimens are colourless.<br />

Black and white pearl<br />

Considered as one of the best-loved gems of all time, pearls come in a<br />

wide variety of colours, the most popular of which are white and cream<br />

colour pearls.<br />

Left to Right: Panda - Van Cleef & Arpels; Charms - Storrow<br />

Natural pearls are formed when a microscopic irritant enters the bodies<br />

of certain molluscs, while cultured pearls are done by inserting a bead<br />

or piece of tissue that the mollusc coats with nacre.<br />

Black, grey, and silver pearls are fairly common, with the main colour - or<br />

bodycolour - is often modified to induce additional colours called overtones,<br />

which are pink, purple, green, or blue.<br />

Some pearls also show the iridescent light effect known as ‘orient’.<br />

Pearls are commonly used for bead necklaces and bracelets or set in<br />

solitaires, pairs, or clusters for earrings, rings, and pendants. Larger pearls<br />

are also popular with creative jewellery designers.<br />

Akoya cultured pearl farms are primarily found in Japan and China,<br />

especially along the southern coasts of Guangdong and Guangxi provinces.<br />

South Sea cultured pearls are farmed from the northern coast of Australia<br />

through Indonesia to the southern coast of Southeast Asia, with large<br />

operations in the Philippines as well. The Gambier Islands and the Tuamotu<br />

Archipelago – both in French Polynesia - are two of the major sources of<br />

rich black Tahitian pearls.<br />

Chalcedony<br />

Chalcedony is named after the ancient Greek seaport ‘Chalcedon’<br />

(khalkedon) in Asia Minor and the Latin word ‘chalcedonius’.<br />

Chalcedony, which is found worldwide, is a microcrystalline variety<br />

of quartz, meaning its microscopic quartz crystals require high<br />

magnification for it to be seen.<br />

When crafted as jewellery, chalcedony is distinguished by its light blue<br />

translucent and waxy form, which can be found in be many colours -<br />

chrysoprase is a popular example, the sought-after apple green variety.<br />

Ideal for carving cameos, intaglios, ring bezels and beads, Chalcedony<br />

has been used since ancient times in the Mediterranean region and<br />

Central Asia.<br />

MEMBER<br />

Est.1968<br />








03 9654 4449<br />

Level 4, Wales Corner<br />

227 Collins Street<br />

Melbourne VIC 3000<br />



Red Carpet Collection<br />


Gemstones in the Spotlight<br />

The A-list have given their seal of approval to statement gems – be inspired by these colourful jewellery pieces worn on the red carpet.<br />

Famed Lebanese-<br />

Italian jeweller Fawaz<br />

Gruosi presented these<br />

striking earrings as<br />

part of the Colorissima<br />

Collection. Showcasing<br />

natural darkness and<br />

light with contrasting<br />

gemstones, the<br />

earrings feature carved<br />

onyx with diamonds<br />

set in 18-carat white<br />

gold and are paired<br />

with a matching ring.<br />

Fawaz Gruosi<br />

ONYX, WHITE DIAMOND – Jodie Comer<br />

Venice Film Festival 2021<br />

Boucheron<br />

PEARL, DIAMOND – Salma Hayek<br />

Academy Awards 2020<br />

Fred Leighton<br />


Lupita Nyong’o, SAG Awards 2015<br />

Tasaki<br />

PEARL – Clare Danes<br />

Met Gala 2021<br />

Fred Leighton<br />

WHITE TOPAZ – Kate Winslett<br />

Emmy Awards 2021<br />

Yoko London<br />

PEARL – Zendaya<br />

Vogue Fashion Fund Awards in 2016<br />

4The Opalescence brooch<br />

is set with a 71.69-carat oval<br />

Ethiopian cabochon white opal,<br />

and also has a matching ear<br />

pendant, set with opals and<br />

diamonds with lacquer, on rose<br />

gold. Designed by Boucheron,<br />

this set is part of the Carte<br />

Blanche, Holographic Haute<br />

Joaillerie collection.<br />

Verdura<br />

DIAMOND, PEARL – Julie Garner<br />

Golden Globe Awards 2021<br />

Boucheron<br />

OPAL – Nicolas Maury<br />

Cannes Film Festival 2021<br />

56 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong>

GEMSTONES IN THE SPOTLIGHT | Stars shine in colour<br />

Los Angeles based jeweller<br />

Irene Neuwirth, creates a<br />

remarkable labradorite and<br />

diamond necklace. Round<br />

brillliant -cut diamonds and<br />

labradorites are tied together with<br />

an 18-carat rose gold necklace.<br />

Irene Neuwirth<br />

LABRADORITE – Amy Poehler<br />

Golden Globes 2015<br />

Van Cleef & Arpels<br />

CHALCEDONY – Kate Middleton<br />

BAFTAS 2020<br />

Faraone Mannella<br />

MOONSTONE – Nicky Hilton Rothschild<br />

LuisaViaRoma for UNICEF Event 2021<br />

Ashton Michael<br />

PEARL – Machine Gun Kelly<br />

American Music Awards 2021<br />

UNOde50<br />

PEARL – JoJo<br />

AMAs 2021<br />

Lorraine Schwartz<br />

BLACK DIAMOND – Halsey<br />

Billboard Music Awards 2018<br />

4 Reese Witherspoon<br />

wore Bulgari with<br />

11.74 carats of rubies,<br />

25.2 carats of diamonds,<br />

onyx and pearls, as<br />

well as a one-of-a-kind<br />

Barocko bracelet.<br />

Bulgari<br />


Witherspoon, Academy Awards 2021<br />

Brumani<br />


Venice Film Festival 2019<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 57


Strategy<br />

How to improve and create<br />

great retail displays<br />

Tiffany & Co.<br />

First impressions are undeniably lasting and in the retail business it can determine whether a customer<br />

enters or walks away from your store. Let KIZER AND BENDER share their knowledge to help you sell more.<br />

If there are lessons learned from the<br />

pandemic, it’s that retailers are highly<br />

resilient.<br />

We know you never have enough time to do<br />

everything you want on your sales floor and<br />

that customers expect constant change to<br />

keep coming back. Fortunately, there are<br />

great resources available to help with visual<br />

merchandising- the part of your store that<br />

interests shoppers.<br />

Studies have revealed that humans lose<br />

interest somewhere around eight seconds.<br />

Blame it on technology! For in-store<br />

displays, customers lose interest in about<br />

five seconds – this is why the approach of<br />

‘this display is good enough for now’ just<br />

doesn’t cut it anymore.<br />

For in-store displays, customers lose<br />

interest in about five seconds – this is why<br />

the approach of ‘this display is good enough<br />

for now’ just doesn’t cut it anymore.<br />

So what’s a retailer to do?<br />

Elements of a great display<br />

We started our careers in the retail<br />

industry; department stores to be specific,<br />

and back when they were not-to-bemissed<br />

examples of quality retailing. The<br />

experience taught us that displays take<br />

time and preparation to build a themed<br />

experience each month, and an action<br />

plan is necessary to make it happen.<br />

Great displays don’t just happen. Sure,<br />

sometimes you get lucky, but organising<br />

promotions every month can be<br />

exhausting.<br />

Consider these ideas when planning your<br />

displays.<br />

Theme: Choose a theme for each month<br />

of the year. Some months may have more<br />

than one theme. Do it one at a time.<br />

Consider your overall theme and what it<br />

takes to achieve what you are aiming for.<br />

Remember that the store is always the<br />

story, not a single display. Carry elements<br />

of the theme throughout the sales floor to<br />

create a unified story.<br />

Platform: These are fixtures needed to<br />

create displays on your sales floor and<br />

windows. For example, what platform do<br />

you need for your ‘speed bump’ display?<br />

List each piece needed, taking into<br />

account what you already have and what<br />

you may need to purchase.<br />

Props: Little touches incorporated to a<br />

display adds character. Think texture:<br />

baskets, smooth woods, glass, metal,<br />

even different fabrications. Inexpensive<br />

Plexiglas risers are ideal for elevating<br />

featured products. Consider using big<br />

props, such as decorated Christmas trees<br />

during the holidays or decorative trim<br />

throughout the store.<br />

Product: Choose items to be displayed<br />

in advance so you can focus on telling<br />

a complete story. While you are already<br />

purchasing products seasonally, look for<br />

other items to be merchandised on endfeatures<br />

and other areas to carry out the<br />

theme. You can swap or add products from<br />

the floor, as needed.<br />

Great displays<br />

don’t just<br />

happen. Sure,<br />

sometimes<br />

you get lucky,<br />

but doing it<br />

every month is<br />

exhausting.<br />

Display Techniques: Always consider<br />

the right technique to make products<br />

stand out. We know that products<br />

arranged vertically is always better than<br />

products distributed horizontally. Vertical<br />

merchandising causes shoppers to see<br />

more of the displays because they look<br />

up, down and forward on displays.<br />

Cross-merchandising or placing items<br />

together that complement one another<br />

is another effective technique. It entices<br />

shoppers to purchase more products easily,<br />

plus they are exposed to items they have not<br />

previously considered.<br />

Each display also needs a Focal Point, that<br />

spot where a customer’s eyes fixate at a<br />

display. Is the shopper drawn to a product<br />

you are promoting? When there is no focal<br />

point customers may be confused about<br />

where to look and simply move on.<br />

If the fixture itself is the focal point then it’s<br />

time to change it.<br />

Negative space: Empty areas of the display<br />

or white space that frames the product. Your<br />

store is an explosion of colours; let your key<br />

displays breathe a little.<br />

Colour: is a powerful choice when searching<br />

for theme ideas. We are naturally drawn to<br />

color, but it’s also important to keep in mind<br />

that colours can have an effect on shoppers:<br />

• Red is aggressive and makes some<br />

people anxious and can actually speed up<br />

metabolism<br />

• Pink is happy, romantic, light-hearted<br />

and soothing<br />

58 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong>

Business Strategy<br />

• Yellow is optimistic, warm, cheery and<br />

the first colour we see<br />

• Green is calming and refreshing and<br />

the easiest colour on the eye<br />

• Brown signifies warmth and security<br />

• Blue represents trust, loyalty and<br />

confidence<br />

• Purple symbolises luxury, wealth and<br />

sophistication<br />

• Orange just makes us happy<br />

Communication: In-store signage is<br />

incredibly important, yet often an underutilised<br />

component of a good display. Signs<br />

answer questions about products and<br />

highlight features, price points, etc. On<br />

the sales floor women often read signs for<br />

information, however; men rely on them,<br />

especially for big ticket items where features<br />

are important.<br />

Remember that eye level – 4 feet to 5 feet<br />

(120-150cm), four inches (10cm) from<br />

the floor – is the ‘buy level’. It’s the best<br />

performing sales area for adult shoppers, so<br />

if a sign encourages purchases, add one.<br />

Senses: The five senses play key roles in<br />

the customer experience spectrum and can<br />

enhance a monthly theme. Sight and touch<br />

relate to merchandise, taste is anything<br />

that’s prepackaged during the pandemic,<br />

but hearing and smell can make your<br />

monthly display much better.<br />

Instore music must be considered<br />

because the right music can influence<br />

sales by providing a background that<br />

entices shoppers to stay longer and buy<br />

more. Disco, or any music that’s upbeat,<br />

is a popular favourite because it makes<br />

shoppers smile. Music can also energise<br />

your staff on the sales floor.<br />

Research has proven that a pleasantsmelling<br />

environment has a positive effect<br />

on shopping behaviour. Fresh pine scents<br />

during November and December, for<br />

example, will put shoppers in the holiday<br />

spirit. Adding scent to your themes using<br />

diffusers or machines are great, but avoid<br />

burning scented candles on your sales floor.<br />

Marketing: This involves events or<br />

promotions that are tied to your theme, plus<br />

where the theme and related products are<br />

marketed. Consider Facebook, Facebook<br />

Live, Instagram, Pinterest and bi-weekly<br />

emails or newsletters.<br />

Areas of importance on your sales floor<br />

To save time, plan ahead and know which<br />

areas of the sales floor will be part of your<br />

monthly theme. Spread the theme area<br />

wherever you like throughout the store, but<br />

note key areas that need to be involved for<br />

one reason: If you mis-merchandise, these<br />

highly visual areas can mean lost sales.<br />

Store-front windows are the ‘eyes of the<br />

store’ and the first thing a customer sees<br />

when entering. Unless you are in a high<br />

traffic area, you need to change your window<br />

displays weekly. Consider changing them<br />

once a month or more when having multiple<br />

themes planned for that month.<br />

Speed bump displays work: they slow<br />

shoppers down. These are also the first<br />

display customers see upon entering the<br />

store and a good indicator of what to expect<br />

on the floor.<br />

While most jewellery stores are small and<br />

don’t require speed bumps, a well located<br />

table can do the trick. Change or update<br />

your speed bump displays once a week;<br />

more often if your store has a lot of repeat<br />

customer traffic.<br />

Lake front property (LFP) is a term used to<br />

descibe high-value real estate on on your<br />

sales floor. Since 90 per cent of customers<br />

enter a store and look or turn to the right,<br />

your LFP can create a big impact on sales. If<br />

your store has a centre door your LFP is at<br />

the front right side of the sales floor.<br />

If your door is at the far left, your LFP will<br />



Theme<br />

Choose a theme<br />

for each month of<br />

the year and be<br />

creative<br />

Props<br />

Think texture -<br />

baskets, smooth<br />

woods, glass,<br />

metal<br />

Product<br />

Choose products<br />

for display to tell<br />

a complete story.<br />

be on the right and the opposite if your door<br />

is located at the right corner. Regardless<br />

of where your LFP is situated it is a critical<br />

space that must be included in your themed<br />

displays and regularly updated.<br />

Power walls are located at the front right<br />

and the most important selling wall in your<br />

store. Use it to feature merchandise you<br />

want customers to see.<br />

End-features or end caps are high-impulse<br />

shopping areas that are located at the end<br />

of gondolas or similar shelving-type fixtures.<br />

It should not be used to house products<br />

permanently, but are best for featuring new<br />

items and promotional goods. Again, while<br />

they might not be relevant to small jewellery<br />

stores, it does offer food for thought.<br />

Theme ideas to get you started<br />

There are many holidays to celebrate each<br />

month and it’s not surprising to see an<br />

entire window dedicated to these themes.<br />

Use holidays as a starting point to get your<br />

creative juices flowing. Brainstorming with<br />

your staff is often a good source of ideas.<br />

Much of your success at retail is contingent<br />

upon your visual merchandising skills.<br />

Customers are not drawn to sparse or<br />

poorly executed displays. Stores that stay<br />

the same, no matter what time of the year,<br />

are bypassed for those with a better in-store<br />

experience.<br />

Every fixture, product, and detail influences<br />

a customer to stay, buy and shop with you<br />

again. Executing displays is an art, but it is<br />

also a science. With a little planning, you can<br />

eliminate the ‘what am I going to put there?’<br />

dilemma and get a head start in creating<br />

quality displays.<br />


BENDER are retail strategists,<br />

authors and consultants. Visit:<br />

kizerandbender.com<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 59


Selling<br />

Demographics is dead –<br />

Here comes Personality Profiling!<br />

Just when we thought that demographics are key to developing effective selling strategies,<br />

maybe we should think again. Let BRIAN WALKER explain how retailers could go the right path.<br />

Australia’s total retail spend in pre-COVID<br />

(2019) was $320 billion. Based on an<br />

average of 5 per cent direct and indirect<br />

spending to attract customers, around $16<br />

billion is spent each year on marketing.<br />

If you ascribe to John Wanamaker’s<br />

’theory’ that 50 per cent of all advertising<br />

and marketing is fundamentally wasted,<br />

about $8 billion per year is wasted, or at<br />

least, ineffective.<br />

Has our traditional perspective of<br />

demographic studies (gender, age,<br />

postcode, etc) led to the ‘well-spent 50 per<br />

cent’ versus the other ‘wasted’ half?<br />

Can we see a definitive link to<br />

demographics and brand resonance other<br />

than a generalised, largely unconnected<br />

relationship?<br />

More importantly, in the digital age, can<br />

store and website design, marketing<br />

segmentation and customer navigation, be<br />

accurately predicted and mapped through<br />

traditional demographics?<br />

Perhaps, in an assumptive manner,<br />

however, today there are more definitive<br />

methods in understanding consumer<br />

profiling or personality types.<br />

Traditional demographics is not enough<br />

Growing up, we were made aware of the<br />

‘rational consumer’ - where all buying<br />

decisions were rational and demographics<br />

ruled the world. As retailers, we devise<br />

campaigns to attract customers whom we<br />

believe would make clear decisions with<br />

respect to age, gender and location.<br />

But guess what? Humans are irrational -<br />

bound by degrees of our emotional senses.<br />

Not many people realise that:<br />

• 95 per cent of new products fail<br />

• Physical stores only convert an<br />

average of 30 per cent<br />

• Online retailers only convert 3 per cent<br />

on average<br />

• 98 per cent of direct mail gets no<br />

response<br />

• 98 per cent of marketing emails don’t<br />

convert<br />

Understand consumers on an intimate and emotional level.<br />

Your brand as a human being<br />

Think about your retail brand being made<br />

up of a unique set of values, which create<br />

its personality to attract consumers<br />

with the same values. As with product<br />

brands, values are emotional and largely<br />

subconscious. Humans build friendships<br />

based on trust and shared values are<br />

consistent and reliable.<br />

The same applies in building brand<br />

relationships. Thus, classic demographic<br />

profiling methods simply don’t work<br />

because they ‘speak’ to consumers as<br />

rational beings – and we now know there’s<br />

no such thing as a rational consumer.<br />

Humanising your brand means tapping into<br />

these subconscious and inherent values to<br />

understand consumers on an intimate and<br />

emotional level.<br />

Demographics out – profiling in<br />

Consumer neuroscience posits that the<br />

subconscious limbic system influences<br />

95 per cent of decisions. It’s the part of<br />

the brain involved in our behavioural<br />

and emotional responses, and answers<br />

the question of why customers behave<br />

the way they do and it’s not random or<br />

unpredictable.<br />

Imagine a fashion brand for women with<br />

an income of over $1 million, aged 25 to<br />

35, – a classic demographic segmentation<br />

and two women in this segment are Queen<br />

of Pop, Katy Perry and future ‘queen’ of<br />

We were<br />

focused on<br />

‘how’ consumers<br />

interact with<br />

our brands,<br />

when the<br />

missing link<br />

has always<br />

been ‘why’<br />

consumers<br />

choose our<br />

brands and<br />

products.<br />

England, Kate Middleton.<br />

However, both women are worlds apart -<br />

their life and fashion choices determined<br />

by personality types, which explains the<br />

‘why’.<br />

Another example: a man who purchases a<br />

shirt from a store every three months and<br />

did so for the last two years. His preferred<br />

shirt style is known, however not ‘why’ he<br />

chose the store, selected the shirt or chose<br />

the time to purchase.<br />

What subconscious mechanisms influence<br />

a person’s decision to purchase five items<br />

out of a possible 25,000 SKUs? The Limbic<br />

system acts as a relevance detector<br />

whether a stimulus - such as packaging<br />

or product design - can either be relevant<br />

or not, whether we perceive it at all, and<br />

choose a product off-the-shelf.<br />

What resonates with us – before we are<br />

aware of it – occurs in the Limbic system.<br />

So, when it comes to packaging, branding<br />

and overall product design, recognising<br />

what your target customers’ most<br />

dominant emotional system is crucial.<br />

It determines whether a product or<br />

brand stands out, attracts and enables<br />

customers to identify ’the one' amongst<br />

the sea of sameness. We were focused on<br />

‘how’ consumers interact with our brands,<br />

when the missing link has always been<br />

“why” consumers choose our brands.<br />

Neuroscience allows us to better<br />

understand personality profiles and<br />

subconscious emotional drivers, and<br />

we figure out the connection with<br />

certain brands.<br />

Behind each personality type is an amazing<br />

set of subconscious drivers, which<br />

determines how, why and whether or not<br />

consumers will interact with brands. After<br />

all, it’s a 50/50 chance they are right.<br />

BRIAN WALKER is the founder and<br />

managing director of Retail Doctor<br />

Group, a retail consulting company.<br />

Visit: retaildoctor.com.au<br />

60 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Marketing & PR<br />

Prepare your business to face the<br />

expected unexpected<br />

2021 was another year of uncertainty for retailers due to the global pandemic. However, despite the challenges, there was<br />

still plenty of opportunities to improve your business, and lessons to take into the future, JEANNIE WALTERS explains.<br />

While 2021 was another strange,<br />

unpredictable, and a not-quite-back-tonormal<br />

year – and <strong>2022</strong> is looking better<br />

– it’s important to reconsider the changes<br />

you have made or need to make to your<br />

business in odder to progress out of the<br />

pandemic.<br />

When it came to customer experience,<br />

leaders dealt with all sorts of changes and<br />

challenges. The introduction of vaccines<br />

led to some staff returning to the office,<br />

while some swore they’d never return.<br />

Customers were able to go to the grocery<br />

store, yet many who discovered delivery<br />

services during the shutdowns found it<br />

better suited their lives.<br />

Utilise root cause analysis and customer journey-mapping.<br />

these situations.<br />

Closing the loop also means bringing<br />

closure to everyone in the business that<br />

solved customer issues and created a<br />

better outcome. Share the wins throughout<br />

the business so staff can reflect the same<br />

to your customers.<br />

Customer feedback will continue to be<br />

a key factor in preparing for the future,<br />

but only if the feedback loop is closed by<br />

communicating back to the customer.<br />

Focus on the big picture<br />

Don’t waste time on trivial matters. Always<br />

think big about your customer experience<br />

goals and how they can help your business<br />

achieve its goals, as well.<br />

Schools opened, closed and quarantined<br />

groups, while parents juggled uncertain<br />

schedules and even bus driver shortages.<br />

Our on-demand world did not fare any<br />

better, either. Shipments were delayed,<br />

there was a shortage in microchips, and<br />

the, so-called, Great Resignation led to<br />

organisational charts written in pencil.<br />

The best-laid plans were difficult to<br />

execute as once envisioned. Indeed, while<br />

2021 was another year of change and<br />

adaptation, this year already looks like<br />

another with some degree of uncertainty.<br />

However, some things won’t change and<br />

store managers can expect a new litmus<br />

test throughout this year.<br />

Here’s how retailers can help ensure<br />

better days ahead for customers and<br />

employees.<br />

Protect your customer-facing resources<br />

Communicate and support staff that<br />

serve customers in more consistent and<br />

larger ways. We all still need to ‘expect the<br />

unexpected’; we can expect volatility in the<br />

world, but not everyone welcomes change.<br />

Customers and sales staff deal with<br />

anxieties and frustrations in ways that<br />

can lead to unfortunate or dangerous<br />

situations. For example, in the US ‘air rage’<br />

incidents rose to historical levels this year,<br />

since the airline industry started recording<br />

Managers need to find ways to address<br />

these when customers and staff are<br />

caught in such unfamiliar situations.<br />

This means exploring measures to provide<br />

customers with guidance and support<br />

in navigating new processes, as well as<br />

communicating new rules or options. It’s<br />

especially important for frontline workers<br />

such as salespeople and counter staff.<br />

What do they need to know to communicate<br />

when things don’t go as planned?<br />

Managers can collaborate with others in<br />

the business. What expectations can be<br />

reset for customers and how? What about<br />

the supply chain, high-stress situations,<br />

or moments deemed important in the<br />

customer’s journey?<br />

Utilising root cause analysis and customer<br />

journey-mapping can help managers<br />

understand and prepare.<br />

<strong>2022</strong>: The year you close the loop<br />

Customers often provide feedback but<br />

don’t get a response from those who<br />

hear it. Quality retailers not only listen to<br />

the customer’s voice, but let them know<br />

they’ve been heard.<br />

It’s often not enough to just respond,<br />

a retailer should also act on customer<br />

feedback and ideas when appropriate.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y retailers may need to coalesce<br />

and get staff involved in that process.<br />

Customers and<br />

sales staff deal<br />

with anxieties<br />

and frustrations<br />

in ways that<br />

can lead to<br />

unfortunate<br />

or dangerous<br />

situations.<br />

It is becoming increasingly important to<br />

respond to short-term, urgent situations.<br />

But jewellery retailers need to focus on the<br />

horizon - beyond the staffing shortages<br />

and supply chain disruptions.<br />

Looking at the present and beyond,<br />

invest in ways to enhance your customer<br />

experience outcomes.<br />

Some retailers use centralised customer<br />

data for visibility and knowledge of the<br />

customer’s purchasing history. This helps<br />

staff provide the right information at the<br />

right time to the right person.<br />

Holistic care for customers and staff<br />

The uncertainty of the times has resulted<br />

in a stress crisis. Managers may be able<br />

to find ways to better serve customers by<br />

proactively reducing stress and anxiety, for<br />

both customers and staff.<br />

What innovations or ideas do you think<br />

we’ll see over the next 12-18 months?<br />

<strong>2022</strong> will bring its own set of surprises,<br />

and customer experience managers will<br />

need to work collaboratively in order to<br />

fulfill a business’s mission.<br />

JEANNIE WALTERS is founder and<br />

CEO of Experience Investigators. Learn<br />

more: experienceinvestigators.com<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 61


Management<br />

Sales management during tough economic times<br />

Management can be a frustrating endeavor during harsh economic times and knowing how to weather<br />

the storm is crucial to success. BRIAN JEFFREY shares his thoughts on managing staff during a crisis.<br />

It doesn’t matter if the global economy<br />

goes bad - around the country, around<br />

the block, or around your industry or<br />

market - because managing means<br />

making difficult decisions. And as an<br />

owner or manager, you’re the best<br />

person who has to make them.<br />

and apart from closing doors on the<br />

business, putting people out on the street<br />

is something to consider.<br />

The key is knowing which people to keep<br />

and supporting them with all you’ve got<br />

while you weather the storm.<br />

Even with small retail businesses such<br />

as jewellery stores, I know there are<br />

many sales management challenges,<br />

but during tough economic times, two<br />

always stand out.<br />

First, maintaining the overall morale<br />

and motivation of your staff, so that they<br />

continue to perform at the highest level<br />

possible no matter the market conditions.<br />

Second, fine-tuning the business to<br />

ensure optimum performance. Finetuning<br />

can involve thinning out the herd<br />

by laying-off people and, obviously, any<br />

downsizing can have a huge impact on<br />

motivation and morale.<br />

Mismanaging during tough times<br />

When times are tough, you need to review<br />

costs, but not necessarily slash and<br />

burn. Larger companies headed by nonmarketing<br />

people, such as an accountant,<br />

or an engineer, often use difficult trading<br />

periods to justify cost cutting.<br />

They terminate training, advertising, staff<br />

- anything else they see as a cost to the<br />

company. This is a short-sighted view.<br />

The problem with cutting costs on<br />

advertising, as an example, is that it<br />

diminishes visibility in the marketplace.<br />

It stops people buying and, as a result,<br />

revenue drops further. The powers at<br />

the top - seeing less revenue - make<br />

even more cuts and the downward<br />

spiral goes on.<br />

When the cost-cutting gets to downsizing,<br />

at times the wrong people get affected,<br />

since it’s often tempting to sack highly-paid<br />

salespeople.<br />

The sales arrow<br />

It’s easy to forget that the salespeople<br />

are the tip of a ‘sales arrow’ and, like any<br />

If you see tough times on the horizon, plan ahead.<br />

arrow, it’s only effective when it hits the<br />

target.<br />

Let’s look at what makes up an arrow. The<br />

tip penetrates the target, the shaft provides<br />

mass, and the feathers provide direction.<br />

Your salespeople are the tip of the arrow,<br />

the company’s products and services<br />

are the arrow’s shaft and the feathers<br />

represent management.<br />

As a retail sales manager, you need to keep<br />

the tip of the arrow sharp at all times.<br />

Sharpen the arrow<br />

Tough economic times are often an ideal<br />

opportunity to sharpen the arrow. While<br />

investing in external sales training and<br />

motivational meetings may be out of the<br />

question, don’t rule them out. It could<br />

make a difference.<br />

Fine-tuning your staff<br />

One of the most difficult decisions for<br />

a sales manager is parting ways with<br />

people he or she knows and likes. Deciding<br />

who goes or stays is a gut-wrenching<br />

experience for even the most seasoned<br />

manager.<br />

Avoid the last-in/first-out approach and<br />

certainly do not play favourites. If you’re<br />

going to reduce your staff, make sure<br />

you’re keeping proven performers and<br />

those with the potential to quickly develop<br />

into performers.<br />

Desperate times, desperate measures<br />

Desperate economic times - global or<br />

local - usually call for desperate measures<br />

It’s somehow<br />

easy to forget<br />

that the<br />

company’s<br />

salespeople<br />

are the tip of<br />

a ‘sales arrow’<br />

and, like any<br />

arrow, it’s only<br />

effective when<br />

it hits the<br />

target.<br />

Walking the thin line<br />

As a sales manager, you often walk the<br />

thin line between upper management and<br />

your sales staff. It is equally important for<br />

you to represent the needs of your staff to<br />

management, just as it is to carry upper<br />

management’s message to the staff.<br />

It’s critical for your staff to see you as<br />

their champion, particularly during tough<br />

times. It’s crucial that upper management<br />

sees you as proactive or part of whatever<br />

solution is required to weather the<br />

economic storm.<br />

As the staff’s champion, you must be<br />

prepared for measures that could hurt the<br />

businesses ability to operate effectively.<br />

Taking risks is a part of business.<br />

Advertising cuts or other marketing<br />

measures that endanger the source of<br />

sales leads should be opposed if the<br />

reason for the cut is simply to save on<br />

expenditure.<br />

It goes both ways of course, and you<br />

should always be prepared to cut<br />

members of staff if needed.<br />

The bottom line<br />

If you see tough times on the horizon, plan<br />

ahead and be prepared to make difficult<br />

decisions when needed if you expect to<br />

come out safe on the other side.<br />

If you can stay ahead of the curve, even<br />

when it’s heading down, you’ll be in a<br />

better position to take advantage of the<br />

situation when the time comes and the<br />

market improves and sales increase.<br />

BRIAN JEFFREY has more than 40<br />

years’ experience in sales management,<br />

training, and business consulting.<br />

thesaleswizard.ca<br />

62 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Logged On<br />

5 reasons why email marketing is important<br />

A pioneering wonder in digital communication, email has proven itself as a powerful marketing tool.<br />

But has it outlived its usefulness in this modern and disruptive era? Not yet! SIMON DELL explains why.<br />

Despite the overwhelming urge for brands<br />

to embrace ever-changing software and<br />

technology, email remains the top choice<br />

for one-on-one communication.<br />

It’s a powerful and easy to use marketing<br />

tool right at your fingertips!<br />

While social media is great for keeping<br />

customers updated with brand news,<br />

emails reign supreme when it comes<br />

to promoting limited offers and gaining<br />

impulse clicks. Social media content is<br />

filtered — it’s a crude shotgun approach<br />

that doesn’t effectively target your<br />

most loyal customers. This is where<br />

e-mail marketing is most powerful:<br />

personalisation.<br />

In 2020, 87 per cent of marketers believe<br />

email was increasingly effective for<br />

messaging customers. Today, we still send<br />

out newsletters, promotions, and leadretention<br />

emails because these continue<br />

to draw customers’ attention. Simple, yet<br />

emotionally evocative language is what<br />

does the trick.<br />

Emails are a direct and informative way<br />

to contact key people within businesses.<br />

A well-written subject line will work<br />

wonders — you need to balance intrigue<br />

with a habit of cutting to the chase when<br />

acknowledging buyer intent.<br />

Also, remember to include no more than<br />

one call-to-action (CTA) in the email body<br />

when dealing with businesses.<br />

High response rate<br />

Tired of ads and social media posts that<br />

generate zero attention? Emails can be<br />

tailored to customers and businesses and<br />

you’re more likely to receive a response<br />

from your target audience.<br />

The most common metric for assessing<br />

email marketing success is the click-toopen<br />

(CTO) metric.<br />

This rate measures opened emails<br />

against the number of clicks on your CTA<br />

link. More than 13 per cent of marketing<br />

emails on average result in a click. That’s<br />

comparable to a successful social media<br />

Emails provide an opportunity to connect with your target demographic.<br />

post from a large campaign while being far<br />

more affordable.<br />

Aim for a 10 per cent CTO rate to gauge<br />

the success of your email marketing<br />

campaign when starting. Don’t be afraid to<br />

experiment with layouts, action-based CTA<br />

and images to increase your rate.<br />

SalesHandy and RightInbox are excellent<br />

stand-alone mail-tracking tools, allowing<br />

you to view link clicks and number of sent<br />

emails opened.<br />

A direct CTA<br />

Emails provide an excellent opportunity<br />

to connect with your target demographic.<br />

The formality of your language, the nature<br />

of your graphics and images – even your<br />

text colour and font affect customers’<br />

receptiveness to your message.<br />

It’s important to start or end your email<br />

with a subject line consistent with your<br />

CTA. One formula for writing an email<br />

is to ask questions (such as potential<br />

problems or queries) and frame your<br />

CTA as the solution.<br />

Questions should be coloured with emotive<br />

language that provokes a response. As an<br />

example, “Stressing about which mattress<br />

to buy?” An appropriate CTA would be:<br />

“We make choosing a mattress easy.<br />

Start shopping.”<br />

This simple formula may not be effective<br />

for B2B sales. Instead, your ability to<br />

Email<br />

marketing is<br />

a fantastic<br />

way to attract<br />

and retain<br />

customers,<br />

no matter the<br />

size of your<br />

business.<br />

convey value information concisely comes<br />

into play. Entice your prospect to respond<br />

by stating the undeniable value of your<br />

service or again, by asking questions they<br />

need answered.<br />

Don’t shy away from being proactive<br />

about setting meetings and suggesting<br />

timeframes. Ensure the ball is always in<br />

the clients’ court.<br />

Automated, but still personal<br />

Let’s talk about mail marketing clients.<br />

Mail marketing software like MailChimp,<br />

HubSpot and Drip provide you with email<br />

statistics and can also send out emails<br />

to leads and current customers based on<br />

their behaviour.<br />

Consider the journey a potential client<br />

takes from signing up or registering<br />

interest to purchasing. Lifecycle emails<br />

can be customised according to which step<br />

a prospective may be on this journey.<br />

Your email software may automatically<br />

send an e-mail to users who have closed<br />

a browser window containing their virtual<br />

shopping cart. You can automate email<br />

vouchers or discounts to inactive clients,<br />

rekindling cold leads.<br />

The possibilities of further categorising<br />

and targeting niches within your client<br />

base are endless and depend on the nature<br />

of your business.<br />

Not going away anytime soon<br />

Email marketing has an ROI of $US44<br />

($AU61.77) for each dollar spent. That’s<br />

without mentioning a massive B2C<br />

audience – 90 per cent of customers enjoy<br />

receiving coupons and sales promotions<br />

from companies.<br />

Email marketing is a fantastic way to<br />

attract and retain customers, no matter<br />

the size of your business, and it’s an<br />

approach that’s here to stay.<br />

SIMON DELL is co-founder and CEO<br />

of Cemoh, a Brisbane-based firm that<br />

provides marketing staff on demand.<br />

He specialises in digital marketing and<br />

brand management. Visit: cemoh.com<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 63

My Bench<br />

Mario Orlando<br />

Cristi’s <strong>Jeweller</strong>s. Penrith NSW<br />

Age 74 • Years in Trade 53 • Training No formal training, served as apprentice under my father • First job Rhon Rae Productions<br />


None, I like them all.<br />


Gold.<br />


Fine file.<br />


Waking up in the morning and<br />

opening the shop.<br />


Not being 100% satisfied with<br />

your work.<br />


Complete all repairs at the<br />

same time.<br />


Always do the right thing!<br />



Looking after your eyes.<br />


Because I work on any aspect of<br />

the design or the jewellery item<br />

64 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Soapbox<br />

Dealing with the intricacies of opal dealing<br />

You know that 95 per cent of opals come from Australia, right? Wrong! RENATA BERNARD<br />

says that’s usually the first mistake when dealing with a customer in search of a quality opal.<br />

Precious Australian opals are currently<br />

in high demand. Their prices are rising<br />

and the number of websites selling<br />

opals is rapidly increasing. This is good<br />

news. We should be celebrating!<br />

Better still, you have a perfect customer<br />

looking for a quality black opal with an<br />

electric play of rainbow colours to be set<br />

into a magnificent jewellery design. The<br />

dollar signs are flashing.<br />

So, what’s the catch? It is, as always, in<br />

the detail. And the detail is in the unique<br />

nature of this magnificent phenomenal<br />

gemstone, its limited supplies and<br />

resistance to systematisation.<br />

If you are lucky, you have a trusted opal<br />

dealer who sends you several options<br />

for your customer. Are you on a winning<br />

streak? Or are you taking your first steps<br />

into the shifty dunes of uncertainty and<br />

limited guarantees?<br />

You have been in the industry long<br />

enough to be able to tell a solid opal<br />

from its composite counterpart. Using<br />

a little droplet test, you can ascertain<br />

the sedimentary nature of the opals you<br />

are examining on behalf of your client.<br />

Trusting the well-repeated statistic, there<br />

is a 95 per cent chance that the precious<br />

opal you are playing with is Australian,<br />

right? Not really!<br />

The mantra, “95 percent of precious opals<br />

originate from Australia,” is repeated ad<br />

nauseam by well-meaning Australian opal<br />

aficionados, has not stood any test since<br />

the 1980s, when it first gained popularity.<br />

The customer insists that they need a N1<br />

or N2 body tone. The stone has it, but the<br />

backing is grey. Or ironstone. How do you<br />

explain to them that the host rock has no<br />

bearing on the N1 classification of the<br />

gem, if they have been over-informed by<br />

the well-meaning websites that advise<br />

‘black is black’?<br />

And then, the question of treatment and<br />

structure arises. What guarantees can<br />

you give to your customer that the faint<br />

grey line in the opal is colour-less potch<br />

and not gypsum or, god-forbid, webbing<br />

that may threaten the long-term stability<br />

of the gemstone?<br />

This is before we get into the<br />

conversation about the quality of cut and<br />

craftsmanship, which more often than not<br />

is done with soft resin diamond wheels<br />

rather than using the traditional – and<br />

superior – dry-sanding techniques. I say<br />

“superior” because only dry opal will tell<br />

you the story of its future.<br />

What tools do you have at your disposal to<br />

discuss the sources of value and quality?<br />

Unfortunately, there is still very little. The<br />

nomenclatures currently in circulation<br />

insist that the notions of body tones,<br />

gradation of colours and vaguely defined<br />

patterns, are main determinants of the<br />

precious opal’s value.<br />

The truth is that, as is the case with all<br />

other precious gemstones, an opal’s value<br />

lies in its beauty, rarity and durability, not<br />

in its darkness or lightness, or blackness<br />

or whiteness.<br />

You may have seen a green-blue, N-6 opal<br />

superbly superior to a red N1 with barely<br />

enough play of colour to speak of. Or, an<br />

electrifyingly spectacular pinfire may steal<br />

your heart in a flash, when placed next to<br />

a charming broad-patterned ‘character’<br />

stone.<br />

To put it simply, a precious opal’s objective<br />

beauty is directly proportional to the<br />

overall brightness of its play-of-colour. It<br />

is as simple as that.<br />

Both, you and the client can see it. And,<br />

this is what we should focus on and<br />

measure, rather than the body tone. This<br />

is what gives opal lovers goose bumps<br />

and it’s what makes them fall in love with<br />

an opal. Of course, the excitement of a<br />

gemstone is also relational and depends<br />

on the gem lover’s tastes, and – let’s face<br />

The mantra,<br />

“95 percent of<br />

precious opals<br />

originate from<br />

Australia,” is<br />

repeated ad<br />

nauseam by<br />

well-meaning<br />

Australian opal<br />

aficionados.<br />

it – their wallet.<br />

Yet, fundamentally, bright play of colour<br />

is the one factor that makes an opal<br />

irrevocably beautiful.<br />

In judging durability and rarity of<br />

Australian opals, nothing beats<br />

experience and that comes from handling<br />

thousands of varied gemstones and<br />

dealing with the opal, gem and jewellery<br />

industry at many levels, from the source,<br />

manufacturing, all the way to the end<br />

user - our retail clientele.<br />

It comes from understanding what fine<br />

design and quality craftsmanship is at<br />

each level of an opal journey. It comes<br />

from exploring different opal fields,<br />

talking to miners, dealers and end users,<br />

learning the old ways, whilst adopting<br />

new technologies and directions in<br />

design, on par with the best of the world.<br />

I dare to add that our collective and<br />

unique advantage is our localised opal<br />

experience that goes hand-in-hand with<br />

our industry qualifications that inspire<br />

trust and respectability. GAA, GIA, Gem-A,<br />

coupled with accreditations and coveted<br />

memberships, including Australian NCJV<br />

are crucial in validating the Australian<br />

opal industry’s reputation and inspiring<br />

our customer’s long-term satisfaction.<br />

At the end of the day, what we want our<br />

opal client to have is a guarantee - of<br />

quality, value and expertise behind the<br />

gemstone to be treasured for generations<br />

to come.<br />

That should be our ultimate goal in the<br />

fine jewellery business. It should be a<br />

guarantee supported by knowledge, and<br />

a focus on the end-use, all of which must<br />

be easily conveyed.<br />

Name: Renata Bernard, PhD, GIA GG<br />

Business: Opal Minded<br />

Position: Creative Director<br />

Location: Sydney, NSW<br />

Years in the industry: 14<br />

66 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong>



4 DAYS<br />


for your customers<br />


PAID FOR<br />




TO YOU<br />


Our Service<br />

Guarantee if the customer ever has a claim, the full replacement<br />

cost is paid directly to you as the customers preferred jeweller,<br />

not shopped around to the insurers preferred jewellers<br />









UP TO 150% COVER OF<br />



Like-for-like replacement to the same quality and craftsmanship<br />

that was lost<br />

We do annual revaluations so the item is never under-insured<br />

Commission for every one of your customers that process a policy<br />

Easy, fast claims process. Claims payments made within<br />

5 business days<br />





www.centrestone.com.au<br />


CALL NOW<br />

+61 2 8316 3995

Solid Gold Collection<br />

Established for over five decades, Classique is renowned<br />

for high quality, elegant and ageless timepieces.<br />

Classique’s range of Solid Gold watches come in various<br />

designs, some featuring diamonds and are engineered<br />

with Swiss made movements. Suitable for every occasion.<br />

Stylish, modern, classic, and timeless pieces.<br />

ClassiqueWatches.com<br />


E Sales@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199<br />


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