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Jewellery World Magazine - May 2022

This month's issue details lab-grown diamonds and their spectacular rise in recent years. Once shunned by jewellers and customers alike, they're now a staple for so many jewellery retailers. The state of education in the jewellery industry is also examined in depth. Plus, lab-grown diamonds in watches and all the latest news from brands and industry as a whole.

This month's issue details lab-grown diamonds and their spectacular rise in recent years. Once shunned by jewellers and customers alike, they're now a staple for so many jewellery retailers. The state of education in the jewellery industry is also examined in depth. Plus, lab-grown diamonds in watches and all the latest news from brands and industry as a whole.

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MAY <strong>2022</strong><br />

AUSTRALIA AND NEW<br />

ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE


Quality Findings<br />

Discover the ultimate collection of<br />

world-famous, high-quality findings.<br />

1300 886 108 | AUSTRALIA WIDE | palloys.com


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<strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />

ABN: 82 637 204 454<br />

ISSN: 2207-6751<br />

PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570<br />

P: 0431 844 903<br />

Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

managing director<br />

Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903<br />

jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

editor<br />

editor@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

contributing writers<br />

Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />

Stefan Juengling<br />

Cynthia Unninayer<br />

Cheryl D Harty<br />

art<br />

design@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

advertising sales<br />

sales@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

REGULARS<br />

6 News<br />

12 Palloy's Points<br />

14 Trade Well with Rami Baron<br />

16 JAA News<br />

38 Birthstone - Pearl<br />

40 Watches<br />

46 New Products<br />

50 Directory<br />

FEATURES<br />

18 Lab-grown diamonds<br />

Finding new ways to shine.<br />

Acceptance of lab-grown diamonds has been a<br />

long, hard road, but now their time has come.<br />

20<br />

28<br />

34<br />

28 Training tomorrow's jewellers and gemmologists<br />

Any look at the future of our industry has to<br />

include the training of our newest members.<br />

What is the state of education for Australia's<br />

future jewellers and gemmologists?<br />

DISCLAIMER:<br />

This publication may not be reproduced<br />

in whole or part without the written<br />

permission of the Publisher.<br />

Articles express the opinions of the<br />

authors and are not necessarily those of the<br />

Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or<br />

service in this magazine does not indicate the<br />

Publisher’s endorsement.<br />

AUSTRALIA AND NEW<br />

MAY <strong>2022</strong><br />

ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE<br />

The Publisher excludes all liability for<br />

loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false<br />

or misleading statements that may appear<br />

in this publication.<br />

All information is copyright.<br />

FRONT COVER<br />

JC Jewels<br />

www.jcjewels.com.au<br />

4<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />

All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />

• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, 2020 (Homebush)<br />

• International • Sydney AGHA <strong>Jewellery</strong> Gift Fair -September - February 21-24, 12-14, 2020 (Homebush)<br />

(Darling Harbour)<br />

• International <strong>Jewellery</strong> Fair -September 12-14, 2020 (Darling Harbour)<br />

TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU


News<br />

The Golden Horseshoe Parade<br />

The Victorian town of Beechworth recently held its famous<br />

“Golden Horseshoe” Parade, celebrating one of the most<br />

colourful election campaigns in Australian history.<br />

Christie’s sells pink diamond for $6.8m<br />

A rare 8.82-carat Fancy intense purple-pink, pear modified brilliant-cut diamond,<br />

set in a platinum ring with two 0.61-carat stones, sold for USD $6,780,000 at<br />

Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York in mid-April.<br />

The gem, known as the Fuchsia Rose diamond, sold well above the pre-sale<br />

estimate of $4 million to $6 million.<br />

Another highlight was a 2.44 carat Fancy intense pink diamond ring, which sold<br />

for $1,620,000; and a Fancy vivid yellow diamond ring of 15.31 carats, which<br />

sold for $1,320,000.<br />

Swarovski signs five year contract with Climeworks<br />

Building on its sustainability strategy, Swarovski has signed a five year<br />

agreement with Climeworks, a leader in carbon dioxide removal via direct air<br />

capture.<br />

Swarovski joined the Science Based<br />

Targets initiative in 2021, announcing its<br />

commitment to reduce absolute scope<br />

1 and 2 emissions (direct and indirect<br />

emissions from owned operations) by 47<br />

percent by 2030.<br />

In 1855, two rival gold mining factions (the Monkeys and<br />

the Punchers) were competing for their own elected<br />

candidate. The Monkeys rode into town from their<br />

Woolshed diggings, loudly supporting their candidate<br />

Daniel Cameron who was unusually visible to all voters<br />

– his horse had been shod with two golden shoes. The<br />

gold had been supplied by “Big” Johnson, owner of the<br />

Woolshed’s richest claim.<br />

The<br />

campaigning<br />

strategy<br />

worked and<br />

Cameron<br />

quickly won<br />

the election<br />

based on a<br />

show of hands<br />

among the miners. “Big” Johnson celebrated the win with<br />

a 300 pound champagne shout, although he did discover<br />

that gold is not the best material for horse shoes – after a<br />

one mile ride, the weight of the horse shoes had dropped<br />

by one ounce.<br />

A replica of the Golden Horseshoes is on display in the<br />

town. Each shoe weighs 580 grams and the pair are valued<br />

at $60,000.<br />

In addition, Swarovski wants to get<br />

started on carbon removal as well,<br />

acknowledging the importance of<br />

removing residual and historic CO₂ emissions from the atmosphere on top of<br />

emissions reductions. In order to limit global warming to 1.5°C, the world needs<br />

to reach net-zero emissions by mid-century, and net-negative emissions after<br />

that.<br />

Climeworks is a Swiss-based company currently leading the world in carbon<br />

capture and storage.<br />

6<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


WHY JOIN<br />

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News<br />

Celebrity wedding diamonds<br />

The celebrity wedding of Brooklyn Beckham and Nicola<br />

Peltz in Florida in March was an extravagant glittering<br />

affair, with millions of dollars worth of jewellery on<br />

display. The bride wore enormous solitaire round<br />

brilliant cut diamond earrings for the ceremony, with<br />

experts estimating the diamonds were around the<br />

7-carat mark, and valued between $250,000 and $1<br />

million. The groom accessorised his suit with a lapel<br />

chain featuring bezel set emerald-cut diamonds, a gift<br />

from his in-laws.<br />

Mother of the groom, Victoria Beckham, combined opulence with sentiment,<br />

wearing an intricate yellow gold necklace with a magnificent 21.5-carat pearshaped<br />

diamond mounted in platinum. The diamond was a gift from Victoria’s<br />

husband David on the day of Brooklyn’s christening, while the necklace was<br />

French 18-carat yellow handmade filigree link guard chain with a wild bee motif<br />

and a figa talisman to bring good luck.<br />

Mother of the bride Claudia Peltz wore a<br />

spectacular diamond necklace with an enormous<br />

pear-shaped pendant. Some jewellery sleuths have<br />

speculated is the 94.78 carat pear-shaped D-color<br />

Star of the East diamond, once owned by King<br />

Farouk. Even the wedding guests sparkled, with<br />

Jonathan Cheban wearing a diamond-encrusted<br />

bow tie with his black tuxedo.<br />

Oscars Bling<br />

Despite all the distractions, the <strong>2022</strong> Academy Award winners sparkled as they<br />

collected their awards.<br />

Best Actress winner Jessica Chastain accessorised her statuette with a Gucci<br />

lionhead necklace featuring opal, tanzanites and diamonds set in 18kt white<br />

gold, and a Gucci green garnet and diamond ring, also in 18kt white gold.<br />

Nominee Nicole Kidman wore a yellow gold and platinum Harry Winston Eagle<br />

necklace featuring a yellow diamond pendant, paired with matching earrings<br />

and bracelets.<br />

Olivia Colman wore droplet Chopard earrings and a diamond<br />

ring. Penelope Cruz wore a Chanel necklace designed to look<br />

like the brand’s signature tweed.<br />

Will green be the new pink?<br />

Twenty years ago, Ben Affleck gave Jennifer Lopez<br />

a pink diamond engagement ring, sparking a trend<br />

for pink diamonds that hasn’t faded. Can they<br />

work the same magic with green diamonds?<br />

After splitting up, marrying others and (in<br />

Jennifer’s case) collecting a wide array of<br />

spectacular engagement rings over the last<br />

two decades, the couple are now reunited and<br />

engaged again. This time, Ben proposed with<br />

a platinum ring featuring an 8.5 carat cushion<br />

modified brilliant-cut natural green diamond<br />

centre stone, flanked by a pair of trapezoid stepcut<br />

diamonds.<br />

“Green has always been my lucky colour and now,<br />

for sure, it always will be,” said Jennifer when she<br />

announced the engagement on Instagram.<br />

However, as green<br />

diamonds are very rare,<br />

they are unlikely to<br />

corner the gemstone<br />

market as much as the<br />

original pink diamond<br />

engagement ring.<br />

Best Supporting Actress Ariana<br />

DeBose wore a delicate De Beers<br />

necklace of diamonds set in<br />

platinum, with matching earrings,<br />

bracelet and rings.<br />

8<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


LET'S TALK<br />

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designers, Board members, event organisers, wholesale and retail business owners, gemstone<br />

experts, and of course female peers, that play an integral part in our business management,<br />

growth and development. Hear from and be inspired by some of the industry’s leading ladies.<br />

Welcome all members of the trade, male and female, to join us.<br />

REGISTER TODAY | JAA.COM.AU/TALK<br />

Proudly brought to you by the Jewellers Association of Australia


News<br />

Anisa Costa leaving Tiffany & Co.<br />

after 19 years<br />

Anisa Costa, Tiffany & Co.’s chief sustainability<br />

office and president of the Tiffany Foundation, the<br />

company’s charity arm, is leaving the brand after 19<br />

years.<br />

As from April, Costa will become chief sustainability<br />

office for electric car company Rivian Automotive.<br />

Million dollar chess set<br />

A unique jewel-studded chess set is back on the market with a US$1 million price<br />

tag.<br />

Designed in 1971 by Jim Grahl of J. Grahl Design, the chess pieces are made of<br />

14k yellow and white gold and designed to accurately represent the costumes and<br />

accessories of European royalty in the 13th and 14th century.<br />

“You have a Nordic king, the Spanish queen and a French knight that turned into a<br />

version of Henry VIII,” said Grahl.<br />

The two rooks are modelled<br />

after the medieval Falkenstein<br />

Castle in Austria, and the pawns<br />

are modelled on Welsh footmen.<br />

The kings and queens have<br />

diamond crowns – the white<br />

gold monarchs have sapphires<br />

in their breast plates, while the<br />

yellow gold team have rubies.<br />

“I was trying to compress that particular history of costuming and trying to be<br />

era-correct,” said Grahl.<br />

The chess set is available to purchase through Windsor Fine Jewelers in Augusta,<br />

Georgia. General manager Michael Zibman said most customers prefer to take<br />

photographs of the intricate chess set, but there have been no serious offers. If<br />

buyers are concerned that the chess set might be too delicate for proper games,<br />

designer Jim Grahl says that it is suited for practical purposes.<br />

“The pieces are designed to be held and played with,” says Grahl. “They are very<br />

tactile. They are not fragile.” However, he does advise against “tipping the king<br />

over in an aggressive manner” which is probably why he’s never crafted a jewelled<br />

Monopoly set.<br />

Costa joined Tiffany in 2003<br />

in its Tiffany Foundation<br />

before taking on the role<br />

of vice president in the<br />

brand’s corporate social<br />

responsibility arm in 2009. By<br />

2013, she was named chair<br />

of the foundation, and in<br />

2015, became Tiffany’s chief<br />

sustainability officer.<br />

Before buying the Tiffany brand, company owners<br />

LVMH had hailed Tiffany’s sourcing and commitment<br />

to sustainability.<br />

“Sourcing and sustainability are quite important, and<br />

that is something we could learn from them,” said<br />

LVMH chief financial officer Jean-Jacques Guiony.<br />

“They are leaders in that important area.”<br />

It is unclear if Tiffany intends to replace Costa.<br />

Rebecca Foerster to head Hearts on Fire<br />

Just a month after leaving<br />

her position as the US head<br />

of Russian diamond miner<br />

Alrosa, Rebecca Roerster has<br />

been appointed as president<br />

of Hearts on Fire for North<br />

America. Alrosa’s America<br />

office has now closed as it is not permitted to operate in<br />

America under the current US sanctions.<br />

Hearts on Fire is owned by Chinese jewellery giant, Chow<br />

Tai Fook, who bought the brand in 2014.<br />

Foester has previously worked for Rio Tinto Diamonds,<br />

Frederick Goldman, and Leo Schachter Diamonds.<br />

10<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Key<br />

Points<br />

Trade show season is upon us.<br />

With in-person trade shows<br />

resuming, its time to refresh<br />

your memory on trade show<br />

security.<br />

With spectacular booths, award winning<br />

pieces and the chance to catch up with old<br />

and new customers, trade shows are one<br />

of the most exciting events within the<br />

jewellery industry.<br />

It is important to remember who else might<br />

be attending these shows. Criminals pencil<br />

these events into their calendars as well. Of<br />

course, this is no surprise. With a large<br />

number of high value items under one roof,<br />

criminals view this as an opportunity to<br />

potentially carry out a record breaking<br />

theft.<br />

With jewellery trade shows in Australia<br />

operating over many years, event<br />

organizers are well prepared against<br />

potential security threats to their venue. It<br />

is most obvious to want to protect your<br />

stock from theft during the trade show, but<br />

have you thought about your risk to and<br />

from the event?<br />

This is why it is important to review what<br />

cover for travel you have under your<br />

Jewellers Block policy. Review your limits,<br />

are they sufficient?<br />

Whilst you're reviewing your policy, it is also<br />

a good idea to check your sendings limits. If<br />

you are shipping stock to customers after<br />

the show, make sure your policy covers this<br />

adequately and includes overseas if<br />

applicable.<br />

Trade and<br />

Exhibition<br />

Insurance<br />

Make sure that your<br />

Jewellers Block policy<br />

provides cover for<br />

trade shows and<br />

exhibitions, including<br />

cover for your display<br />

cabinets in the event<br />

they are damaged at<br />

the show.<br />

Travel<br />

Travelling with stock<br />

to and from events?<br />

Make sure that you<br />

have insured for<br />

'travel' under your<br />

Jewellers Block policy.<br />

Sendings<br />

Shipping stock to<br />

customers after a<br />

show? Review your<br />

sendings limits under<br />

your Jewellers Block<br />

policy.<br />

Public and<br />

Products<br />

Liability<br />

Event organizers<br />

usually request that<br />

exhibiters hold Public<br />

and Products Liability<br />

in order to showcase<br />

their stock at an event.<br />

Public and Products<br />

Liability insurance can<br />

be purchased through<br />

JAA Insurance<br />

Services as part of a<br />

Jewellers Block<br />

insurance policy.<br />

Tips for before, during and after tradeshows:<br />

Talk to your broker and review your<br />

insurance coverage.<br />

Take into account the reputation and<br />

security of your hotel if staying overnight.<br />

Be discreet when discussing the<br />

reasons of your trip with other travelers<br />

and hotel staff.<br />

Make sure you have mapped out where<br />

you need to go.<br />

Never leave the booth unattended.<br />

Keep the keys on your persons.<br />

Try to deal with one person at a time.<br />

Take your badge or sticker off as soon<br />

as you leave the show to reduce your<br />

risk of being identified by criminals.<br />

Ensure you have transportation<br />

organized.<br />

With large numbers of high<br />

value items under one roof,<br />

criminals view this as an<br />

opportunity to potentially<br />

carry out a record breaking<br />

theft.<br />

Insurance<br />

With over 20 years experience providing<br />

Jewellers Block Insurance, JAA Insurance<br />

Services is well equipped to assist you with<br />

your insurance needs.<br />

Get in touch today for a quote<br />

jaais.com.au or 02 8350 9999


PALLOYS POINTS<br />

April Towerton<br />

Fabricated Metal and Finished Goods Fulfilment Manager<br />

Palloys<br />

FINDING SUCCESS<br />

This month, Palloys’ Fabricated Metal and Finished Goods Fulfilment Manager, April<br />

Towerton, gave us some insight into Palloys’ extensive catalogue of findings, as well<br />

as her perspective on what is trending right now.<br />

As a customer of Palloys for over 20<br />

years I was unaware of how many<br />

jewellers, globally, rely on Palloys as<br />

an essential partner to the success of their<br />

business.<br />

Working for Palloys, I can see why. Palloys<br />

is Australia’s longest standing and most<br />

respected brand for custom manufacturing,<br />

fabricated metals, and findings. We have our<br />

own refinery that allows for the production<br />

of high-quality metals. We use state of the<br />

art technology and have rigorous testing<br />

standards in our labs to ensure that the quality<br />

remains at the forefront of our product range.<br />

We have grown to become an industry leader,<br />

front-running the jewellery market.<br />

Palloys is a vital asset as a one-stop shop for<br />

jewellers, including castings, finished jewellery,<br />

semi-mounts, fabricated metals, and findings<br />

as well. At Palloys, we have you covered!<br />

Palloys carries the largest range of die-struck<br />

and machine cut findings in 9ct, 14ct and 18ct<br />

in yellow, white, and rose gold, along with<br />

sterling silver and rhodium-plated sterling<br />

silver findings, and a bespoke range of goldplated<br />

findings.<br />

We carry both finished and continuous silver<br />

chains and are currently exploring expanding<br />

the range, as the market has an influence on<br />

what our range looks like. Palloys now holds<br />

over 2200 different varieties of findings, and<br />

we are always in the market for new and<br />

innovative designs.<br />

I am sure all jewellers and designers have<br />

their favourites, mine include our large disc<br />

butterflies to stabilise heavy earrings. Our<br />

threaded posts and butterflies offer security<br />

and peace of mind for high-value pieces. I<br />

would not use anything else for my favourite<br />

and most valued diamond studs.<br />

I love the large variety of round beads that<br />

Palloys offers. A classic ball bracelet will<br />

never go out of style because it is timeless.<br />

However, if you add some diamond-cut beads,<br />

you can overhaul the look and shift it into<br />

a contemporary style. I love how they add<br />

interest to a strand of otherwise conservative<br />

pearls. Furthermore, it is great to mix up the<br />

sizes of beads and pearls for a modern twist<br />

on a classic.<br />

12<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


We have a wide variety of clasps available to<br />

finish off your bracelets and necklaces and my<br />

favourites are our magnetic clasps as they are<br />

reliable and easy to put on, with no fumbling.<br />

There is a current resurgence in the popularity<br />

of traditional silver charms. In our 218-piece<br />

collection, we cover the traditional through<br />

to the more obscure charms, thus catering<br />

to a variety of tastes, styles, and preferences.<br />

They are easily fixed to bracelets using our<br />

link-locks, which eliminates the need to solder,<br />

so the tedious task of polishing the whole<br />

bracelet saves you both money and time.<br />

We recently launched a range of finished<br />

diamond wedding bands and engagement<br />

rings that are in stock and ready to ship,<br />

known as our ReadyMade collection.<br />

ReadyMade serves as a pillar of what makes<br />

Palloys a reliable, essential asset to jewellers –<br />

the ability to receive high-quality engagement<br />

rings and wedding bands practically overnight<br />

liberates jewellers from the struggle of finding<br />

stock in a pinch.<br />

Palloys also carries 18ct yellow and white<br />

gold diamond wedding bands, ranging in sizes<br />

from I-Q set with GH/SI quality diamonds. Our<br />

diamond wedding bands are made with 100<br />

percent Australian gold and are available in<br />

channel set, bead set, pave set, and knifeedge<br />

designs.<br />

Our range of engagement ring mounts and<br />

semi-mounts encompass both traditional<br />

styles (classic solitaire or trilogy settings),<br />

through to the currently trending halo designs.<br />

Each style is available to suit 0.50ct or 1.00ct<br />

centres and comes in 18ct white gold, yellow<br />

gold, or two-tone varieties.<br />

If you are looking for a more personalised<br />

approach to your wedding bands, look no<br />

further than Palloys’ Livadi wedding ring<br />

range. Livadi accommodates individual design<br />

needs, offering unmatched customisation<br />

capabilities in a huge array of alloys. Livadi<br />

offers a display range fitted with high-quality<br />

gold and rhodium-plated brass sample rings<br />

providing maximum effect for minimum<br />

outlay.<br />

Moreover, Livadi offers an extensive range of<br />

visual merchandising options for jewellers,<br />

with sleek, high-end modular ring displays and<br />

sizing kits, ring boxes, retail bags, look books,<br />

and counter tablet PC digital displays.<br />

Palloys is always creating new content; we<br />

are currently working on innovative ways<br />

to showcase our vast selection of findings<br />

and the best way to use them. We aim to<br />

provide you with the best selection of quality<br />

products, and the knowledge to enable you to<br />

make the most of our extensive catalogue.<br />

We always look forward to supporting our<br />

valued clients, as well as welcoming new<br />

jewellers on board. With resources, such as<br />

video tutorials and information packs available<br />

on our website, any jeweller is welcomed into<br />

the world of findings with Palloys.<br />

Across all divisions, and especially in<br />

findings, Palloys is vital to the success of<br />

jewellers all over the world. Catering to the<br />

most traditional, trendy, and avant-garde<br />

tastes, Palloys’ range of findings is timeless,<br />

extensive, and available now at an unbeatable<br />

price.<br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 13


ARE YOU GOOD AT<br />

PRIORITISING?<br />

It can be difficult to set priorities for your business when everything feels important.<br />

Knowing how to properly recognise problems, analyse opportunities and quantify<br />

solutions is critical to setting good strategies.<br />

Whenever I meet my colleagues<br />

in the trade, we inevitably have<br />

conversations about what’s new,<br />

what’s happening and what changes I am<br />

seeing. There is always a great conversation<br />

about the validity and/or the usefulness of any<br />

topic if they were to apply it to their business.<br />

The part that used to amaze me was when we<br />

would catch up six to twelve months later and<br />

I would ask how they progressed with the said<br />

topic. Often, none of the ideas or innovations<br />

that they were so excited about had been<br />

implemented.<br />

It became such a common occurrence. I asked<br />

myself why? I know that they thought it was a<br />

good idea; clearly some of these ideas could<br />

bring them additional — and quite substantial<br />

— revenue, yet they end up being just another<br />

idea.<br />

So as always, I self-reflect and ask myself, do I<br />

do the same thing? The answer is... yes.<br />

Often, I am introduced to great business<br />

opportunities, great ideas and more than<br />

anything, ideas that I truly want to implement.<br />

The problem that we all face is priorities.<br />

What should we be asking ourselves to<br />

determine whether or not an idea should be<br />

prioritised?<br />

1. Is there a problem that we are trying<br />

to solve? Or is it an idea to improve the<br />

business?<br />

2. How much time and effort do we need<br />

to dedicate to achieve the desired result?<br />

3. What does the result look like?<br />

4. Where does this opportunity / idea sit in<br />

terms of our priorities?<br />

Let’s dissect some of these issues and<br />

consider an example.<br />

Imagine I told you that there is a fantastic way<br />

for you to improve your Google reviews. So,<br />

we ask ourselves, is there a problem that we<br />

are trying to solve? Yes: we are not getting<br />

enough Google reviews. Will more Google<br />

reviews improve the business? Yes. Let’s<br />

jump to the third one - what does the result<br />

look like? Easy, we can quantify the actual<br />

numbers. Where does this opportunity / idea<br />

sit in terms of our priorities? Very high. More<br />

Google reviews means increased traffic to a<br />

business, resulting in increased sales.<br />

But now we get to the critical issue — how<br />

much time and effort do we need to dedicate<br />

to achieve the desired result? Let’s say that<br />

we currently have 30 Google reviews, and we<br />

want 100.<br />

Interestingly, the answer to this question is<br />

probably not a lot of time and effort. We will<br />

assume it means the implementation of a new<br />

piece of software. Therefore, it’s not so much<br />

a matter of time and effort but a change in<br />

behaviour. Something I have written about<br />

many times.<br />

Forty years ago, I attended a seminar by<br />

Tony Robbins, the number one motivational<br />

speaker in the world. One of Anthony’s key<br />

messages focuses on the difficulty in changing<br />

our behaviour. The comment he makes is “we<br />

will not change until the pain is so great that<br />

we are forced to change”. This is where we<br />

have to ask ourselves: how important is this<br />

idea/opportunity in our business and what will<br />

we do to prioritise it?<br />

14<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


DDCA NEWS<br />

Rami Baron<br />

President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia<br />

rami@ddca.org.au<br />

A lot of consultants will talk about the power<br />

of prioritising in terms of efficiency and<br />

improving your productivity. Others will say<br />

that when you prioritise, it removes stress and<br />

anxiety as you free up more time for yourself<br />

and above all else, focus you on what is most<br />

important to you.<br />

In my eyes, it’s really the latter.<br />

What is most important to you? You can<br />

make numerous lists and if you are a highly<br />

productive person, you will put timelines or<br />

delivery dates to keep you honest. However,<br />

when you hear of a new idea or opportunity<br />

that you think can truly help your business, I<br />

challenge you to ask yourself if you are giving<br />

it enough time to explore its merits. Are you<br />

drilling down to ask yourself what this is<br />

worth to your business? If it does have a high<br />

value then what are you prepared to change<br />

or forgo to make sure you bring this idea to<br />

your business and fully execute it? It could<br />

mean that you need to delay other tasks,<br />

such as re-designing your boxes or rebuilding<br />

your website. What is the priority? What will<br />

get you results allowing you to measure a<br />

return on your investment? Again, what is the<br />

priority?<br />

It’s amazing how many quotes exist about<br />

success and failure. Some of my favourites are<br />

“anyone who has never made a mistake has<br />

never tried anything new” and a Tony Robbins<br />

classic “if you do what you’ve always done,<br />

you’ll get what you’ve always gotten”.<br />

Everyone is busy but developing a skillset<br />

which enables you to analyse opportunities<br />

and developing a checklist that works for<br />

you and which helps you evaluate these<br />

opportunities will enable you to continually<br />

innovate and stay ahead of the curve. This, my<br />

friends, must be your priority.<br />

Make yourself a list of questions and ask<br />

yourself if you can delegate the task to<br />

someone else in the business to bring this idea<br />

to fruition. Ask the team what importance<br />

they place on this new idea or opportunity?<br />

Can you quantify what success looks like in<br />

actual numbers? There is no doubt in my mind<br />

that when I reflect on my colleagues who are<br />

ahead of the curve, it is because they are very<br />

good at prioritising. They accept that change is<br />

not always easy, but it’s what will differentiate<br />

them from the rest of the pack.<br />

Of course, it’s easy to stay in a comfort zone<br />

and just chat about good ideas. We need to<br />

try new things. Some will fail and that’s why<br />

prioritising what is important and defining<br />

what success looks like is so crucial.<br />

Trade well,,, Rami Baron.<br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 15


PRESIDENT'S<br />

MESSAGE<br />

Karen Denaro<br />

Women in Industry<br />

On the back of this Mother’s Day season, the Jewellers Association of Australia proudly pays<br />

homage to ‘Women in Industry’, featured via our JAA Webinar, 7pm, Tuesday 7 June <strong>2022</strong>.<br />

The JAA extends an invitation to all jewellery<br />

industry trade members to join us in<br />

celebrating and honouring fierce female and<br />

fabulous women who have gone above simply<br />

contributing, but who have made it their life’s<br />

work in dedicating their passion, creativity and<br />

business nous to the growth of the Australian<br />

jewellery industry, and the global jewellery<br />

industry at large.<br />

Women have been fighting for equality since<br />

the dawn of time and our industry is certainly<br />

no exception. While I have quoted the old<br />

adage, “I love being a woman, albeit a woman<br />

living in a man’s world”, the tide is turning,<br />

if it hasn’t already turned. Our industry has<br />

evolved from when I first commenced my<br />

jewellery industry career, almost 33 years ago.<br />

Working my way through and upward,<br />

in what was then a male predominant<br />

industry, was indeed challenging, at times<br />

highly confronting, yet ultimately extremely<br />

rewarding on every level. I rose to the<br />

challenges, looking at each situation as an<br />

opportunity – an opportunity to grow, to make<br />

a difference, to learn, to be inspired and to<br />

give back, always with the hope of inspiring<br />

and empowering others, particularly other<br />

women in our industry.<br />

My thirst for knowledge is infinite – I continue<br />

to learn, grow and draw inspiration from<br />

amazing women, from all over the globe, each<br />

and every day. While my mother is my eternal<br />

champion, I also attribute my resilience to<br />

being raised in a male-dominated home, with<br />

a father and older brothers who encouraged<br />

me to believe I could achieve everything I<br />

chose to apply myself to and more. I am also<br />

grateful to have had the opportunity to work<br />

with both male and female jewellery industry<br />

icons who took a chance on me, believed in<br />

me and realised my potential – the influence<br />

and support that came from these figures and<br />

mentors is integral to the woman I am today.<br />

Throughout the Australian jewellery industry,<br />

in every arm and sector of the trade, we<br />

have empowered women, of all ages, paving<br />

the way for the next generation. From highly<br />

skilled jewellery artisans, master jewellers,<br />

jewellery designers, informed Association<br />

educators and Board members, event<br />

organisers, both wholesale and retail business<br />

owners, diamond and gemstone experts, and<br />

of course female peers, who play an integral<br />

part in our business management, growth and<br />

development, in all aspects of the jewellery<br />

trade.<br />

Observing our JAA 2021-<strong>2022</strong> Awards, the<br />

calibre of design work, thought and meaning<br />

behind each beautifully handcrafted, bespoke,<br />

and detailed piece of jewellery predominantly<br />

came from young, talented women – the next<br />

generation of Australian jewellery artisans<br />

and master jewellers. I eagerly anticipate<br />

our 2023 JAA Awards and cannot wait to see<br />

the inspiring creations these talented master<br />

jewellers and artisans produce.<br />

It is also imperative to note that our jewellery<br />

consumer is predominantly female with the<br />

latest statistics from the US revealing that<br />

women control more than $20 trillion in<br />

worldwide spending - $7 trillion in the US,<br />

alone. The study forecasts that women will<br />

control two-thirds of consumer wealth in<br />

the US over the next decade. More than 80<br />

percent percent of jewellery is purchased by<br />

women, either on their own, for themselves,<br />

for their female loved ones, for their<br />

colleagues, as corporate initiatives and/or in<br />

co-operation with their partner/s.<br />

Women understand the needs, wants and<br />

desires of other women. We understand<br />

our female clients, friends, and co-workers.<br />

With marked growth in strong female energy<br />

throughout our industry, the future, as I see it,<br />

is indisputably female.<br />

16<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


YOU ARE<br />

MY<br />

ROCK.<br />

Becoming a member of the Jewellers<br />

Association of Australia has a comprehensive<br />

range of benefits.<br />

We are here to help support, protect, guide<br />

and grow your business, whilst being a voice<br />

for the Australian <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry.<br />

The <strong>2022</strong> Member Prospectus details the<br />

benefits available to members and we<br />

welcome you to contact us with any questions<br />

or feedback you may have about the JAA.<br />

INSPIRING CONFIDENCE. SINCE 1931.<br />

view the<br />

MEMBER<br />

BENEFITS<br />

jaa.com.au/benefits


By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />

LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS –<br />

FINDING NEW WAYS TO SHINE<br />

The acceptance of lab-grown diamonds into the jewellery industry has been a long and<br />

slow process, but there is now very little doubt that their time has come. Cheaper but just<br />

as brilliant, jewellers are finding even more reasons to promote this created gemstone.<br />

Traditionally a very conservative industry,<br />

the jewellery industry has rarely needed<br />

to adapt to radical new products or<br />

innovations, so the concept of lab-grown<br />

diamonds as gemstones was not initially well<br />

received. For centuries, the mystique of the<br />

diamond was based on how it is formed under<br />

pressure far below the earth’s surface, and the<br />

way its brilliance can only be revealed through<br />

expert cutting and polishing. This mystique<br />

was perfectly summarised in the iconic De<br />

Beers slogan A Diamond is Forever. In contrast,<br />

lab-grown diamonds – initially created for<br />

industrial purposes – had the same physical<br />

properties as mined diamonds, but when<br />

the technique advanced enough to achieve a<br />

gemstone standard, they were not viewed as<br />

“real” diamonds.<br />

Grown Diamonds<br />

Yet lab-grown diamonds found their market<br />

niche when consumers began questioning<br />

the ethical impact of the mining industry.<br />

Now, as the technological process of creating<br />

diamonds becomes more sophisticated and<br />

efficient, the once-shunned late arrival is<br />

finding new ways to shine in the jewellery<br />

market.<br />

Sharing the market<br />

Craig Miller says that while there are still a<br />

handful of jewellers who will not engage with<br />

lab-grown diamonds, the jewellery industry as<br />

a whole has come to accept and incorporate<br />

this new consumer choice.<br />

“Yes, the resistance came from the trade,<br />

understandably, as there has not been<br />

a disruptor in<br />

our industry for<br />

decades,” said<br />

Craig. “This was<br />

coupled with the<br />

unknown and lack<br />

of education around<br />

lab-grown — the<br />

trade did not know<br />

much about this<br />

new consumer<br />

choice.<br />

“But with more<br />

education and<br />

Grown Diamonds<br />

facts in front of them and with growing<br />

consumer demand, the resistance to labgrown<br />

diamonds is a conversation most have<br />

forgotten.”<br />

As the public became concerned about the<br />

ethical costs of mined diamonds, lab-grown<br />

diamonds were seen as a “clean” alternative,<br />

with no tarnish of environmental damage or<br />

human rights violations. David from Grown<br />

Diamonds says that the growth of the labgrown<br />

market was more consumer-driven<br />

than industry-driven.<br />

JC Jewels<br />

18<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


“When we first started, many people in the<br />

industry showed a huge resistance to labgrown<br />

diamonds, some because they didn’t<br />

understand them and others because they are<br />

afraid of change,” David said.<br />

“However, as they increased in popularity<br />

amongst consumers, many jewellers have<br />

decided to offer lab-grown diamonds as<br />

an alternative for their customers. Both<br />

jewellers and people in general are more<br />

knowledgeable about lab-grown diamonds<br />

and they have become much more accepted<br />

now.<br />

“We originally had many customers telling us<br />

they would never stock lab-grown diamonds<br />

but now they have conceded to the demand<br />

of their clients, and accepted that lab-grown<br />

diamonds are here to stay. They are now some<br />

of our biggest clients.”<br />

With over 20 years in the diamond industry,<br />

Grown Diamonds has an extensive inventory<br />

of conflict-free IGI certified diamonds and<br />

uncertified diamonds for trade customers,<br />

priced between 70-80 percent cheaper<br />

than comparable mined diamonds. Their<br />

online diamond database provides close<br />

JC Jewels<br />

up photographs and videos of all stock, so<br />

customers can see exactly what they're<br />

buying.<br />

New and appealing selling points<br />

While the environmental message brought<br />

lab-grown diamonds into the market,<br />

increased technology has now introduced<br />

compelling new selling points. As mined<br />

diamonds are a limited natural resource, there<br />

is the possibility that eventually supplies will<br />

run out, as was seen with pink diamonds<br />

and the Argyle mine. This could indicate that<br />

mined diamonds will increase in value due to<br />

their rarity, but it also signals an increasing<br />

demand for lab-grown diamonds, due to their<br />

availability.<br />

As technological procedures become more<br />

efficient and<br />

streamlined,<br />

lab-grown<br />

diamonds<br />

are also<br />

becoming<br />

more<br />

economical<br />

to<br />

manufacture,<br />

and the<br />

quality is improving.<br />

Grown Diamonds<br />

Craig from says that the new technology has<br />

drawn new entrepreneurs into the industry,<br />

who are introducing fresh and innovative<br />

strategies to attract a new generation of<br />

consumers.<br />

“The next generation of customers are<br />

embracing a bigger, whiter and cleaner<br />

diamond at an affordable price,” said Craig.<br />

“Lab-grown diamonds not only hit all the<br />

consumer’s touch points, the advancements<br />

in creating lab-grown diamonds are levelling<br />

up the offering with sustainability, carbon<br />

neutrality, transparent traceability, ethical<br />

practices and of course the price and size<br />

advantage.<br />

“All these benefits make lab-grown diamonds<br />

a welcomed option for the next generation.”<br />

The growing accessibility of lab-grown<br />

diamonds has also created a wider range of<br />

options for consumers, in relation to cut, size<br />

and colour.<br />

David from Grown Diamonds says that as the<br />

rough diamonds created by CVD and HPHT are<br />

easy to access, the diamond cutters are able<br />

to customise shapes and sizes for their clients.<br />

JC Jewels<br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 19


Grown Diamonds<br />

“The lab-grown diamond rough is less<br />

valuable than a mined diamond, giving<br />

diamond cutters more flexibility when filling<br />

special requests without having to charge a<br />

great deal more,” said David.<br />

“The price difference between colours is<br />

not as significant in lab-grown diamonds as<br />

opposed to naturals, so customers prefer to<br />

go with the higher colours.”<br />

The difference between CVD and<br />

HPHT<br />

There are two main methods of<br />

diamond production: CVD<br />

(chemical vapour deposition)<br />

and HPHT (high pressure/<br />

high temperature). Both methods produce<br />

diamonds that meet the certification<br />

requirements of gemmological institutes,<br />

matching mined diamonds in terms of<br />

crystallised pure carbon, a Mohs hardness<br />

scale 10, permanent colour and clarity, while<br />

on many scales surpassing mined diamonds in<br />

terms of sustainability and ethical production.<br />

These technologies can produce diamonds<br />

of any colour, clarity and size, although HPHT<br />

on average yields higher colours than CVD<br />

and CVD yields higher clarity on<br />

average.<br />

David says that while some<br />

sellers will promote one method<br />

of production over another, there<br />

is really no difference in quality<br />

between CVD and HPHT.<br />

“In general people don’t mind<br />

if it is grown via CVD or HPHT<br />

method,” David said.<br />

“At the end of the day<br />

diamonds grown via both<br />

methods have the same optical<br />

and strength properties. Some<br />

people prefer CVD over HPHT<br />

or vice versa, but this is due to<br />

misinformation created by some<br />

sellers that would like to push<br />

one over the other due to what<br />

they are purchasing from their<br />

supplier.”<br />

David said that the<br />

improvement in the growing<br />

methodsof both CVD and HPHT<br />

JC Jewels<br />

JC Jewels<br />

20<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


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When you help clients understand the<br />

science behind growing diamonds<br />

above the ground and the different<br />

growing techniques involved, it all<br />

starts to make sense.<br />

has led to the increased production of<br />

diamonds with higher colour and clarities.<br />

“The downside of this is that you will struggle<br />

to find many stones in the lower qualities<br />

which may be within certain customers'<br />

budgets.”<br />

While JC Jewels stocks both CVD and HPHT<br />

diamonds, 90 percent of their customers<br />

choose from their range of certified CVD Type<br />

IIa diamonds.<br />

“Less than 2 percent of mined diamonds are<br />

Type IIa, so these are rare stones that fetch<br />

premiums when and if they are available. The<br />

diamond’s transparency is exceptional and<br />

radiates additional beauty forever.”<br />

“When you lay down the<br />

education and help clients<br />

understand the science<br />

behind growing diamonds<br />

above the ground and<br />

the different growing<br />

techniques involved, it all<br />

starts to make sense.<br />

“Ultimately a diamond<br />

is carbon, whether<br />

from below or above the<br />

ground – a mined diamond<br />

and a scientifically lab-grown<br />

diamond are both authentic diamonds, just<br />

with different origins.”<br />

JC Jewels has the largest range of certified<br />

CVD Type IIa diamonds available in Australia<br />

and New Zealand.<br />

The power of education<br />

As with any relatively new product competing<br />

against an old favourite, buyers and sellers<br />

need to understand what makes this product<br />

different and which desired qualities remain<br />

the same.<br />

JC Jewels<br />

Craig from JC Jewels says that the resistance to<br />

lab-grown diamonds usually derived from lack<br />

of understand.<br />

“As JC Jewels introduces jewellers to labgrown<br />

diamonds, we engage with education<br />

and discussion, we probe into their pain points<br />

and address each one,” Craig said.<br />

22<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


A GLOBAL PEARL NARRATIVE:<br />

The case for generic promotion<br />

Devino<br />

With pearls ticking all boxes as a sustainable jewellery option, a CIBJO<br />

webinar examines the viability of a generic marketing approach.<br />

When it comes to marketing<br />

jewellery to socially and<br />

environmentally aware Millennial<br />

and Gen Z consumers, pearls should be a slam<br />

dunk. Cultivated rather than mined, requiring<br />

pristinely maintained marine biospheres,<br />

and often supporting communities at risk<br />

of extreme climactic events, these muchloved<br />

biogenic treasures also have the rare<br />

distinction of being among the few truly<br />

sustainable gem varieties in existence.<br />

Where the pearl industry lags, however,<br />

is in its capacity to mount a coordinated<br />

marketing approach, highlighting those key<br />

qualities which should attract younger and<br />

sustainability-conscious consumers. This is<br />

in stark contrast to the diamond, gold and<br />

Ikecho<br />

coloured gemstone sectors, all of which are<br />

served by international associations and, in<br />

the instance of diamonds and gold, by bodies<br />

dedicated to category marketing.<br />

While the benefits of generic marketing<br />

would seem patently obvious for the pearl<br />

sector, the task of establishing a structure<br />

that could manage such an undertaking is<br />

fraught with difficulty, and its operation would<br />

be restrictively expensive. But there are<br />

solutions that, while falling short of what is<br />

being done in the gold and diamond sectors,<br />

could nonetheless coordinate the messaging<br />

of pearl companies around the word, while<br />

at the same time enabling each of them to<br />

strengthen their own brand identities.<br />

CIBJO's <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Voices webinar on<br />

April 28, <strong>2022</strong>, focused on the potential of<br />

developing a collective marketing strategy for<br />

pearls, with the cooperation of independent<br />

companies around the world. It is entitled “A<br />

global pearl narrative: The case for generic<br />

promotion.”<br />

The webinar panel included Christine Salter,<br />

creative director of Paspaley Pearl Company;<br />

Marion Branellec de Guzman, chief marketing<br />

Paspaley<br />

officer of Jewelmer; Shari Turpin, owner of<br />

the Pearls by Shari brand; and David Norman,<br />

owner of Aquarian Pearls.<br />

The webinar was sponsored by Paspaley<br />

Pearling Company, which is also the Pearl<br />

Sponsor of CIBJO’s <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Voices<br />

third season of webinars.<br />

The forum was recorded and is available to<br />

listen to on the CIBJO webpage at<br />

www.CIBJO.org/webinars.<br />

24<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


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By Stefan Juengling<br />

TRAINING TOMORROW’S<br />

JEWELLERS AND GEMMOLOGISTS<br />

What does the future of Australia’s jewellers and gemmologists look like? <strong>Jewellery</strong> is an<br />

industry with an alarming disproportionate representation in comparison to other major<br />

trades, yet jewellery will always remain a highly sought-after item in the retail scene. Here<br />

we spoke to four experts in jewellery and gemmology to find out the current state and<br />

outlook for our current apprentices and future jewellers/gemmologists.<br />

So much work, so few tradespeople<br />

While there will always be fiancés needing<br />

engagement rings, mothers needing doting<br />

with something shiny and sentimental on<br />

Mother’s Day, or pawnbrokers and investors<br />

needing stones graded and valued, it seems<br />

the number of tradespeople required to<br />

perform the specialised craft of jewellery<br />

manufacture and precious stone grading will<br />

always be inadequate to meet the demand.<br />

At least that’s the consensus among our<br />

contributors.<br />

Founder and<br />

Master Jeweller<br />

at <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Training<br />

Solutions Peter<br />

Keep (who<br />

also regularly<br />

produces<br />

editorial content<br />

for the magazine) said there is certainly a<br />

shortage of qualified competent jewellers.<br />

Curtis Australia<br />

“Industry dictates the number of apprentices<br />

needed and most bench jewellers will tell you<br />

that currently they are snowed under with<br />

bench work,” he said.<br />

“Although there’s no shortage of potential<br />

apprentices, there is a shortage of suitable<br />

positions for apprentices.”<br />

He said that the demand is there, and<br />

apprentice numbers have steadily been on the<br />

rise over the past three years, but employers<br />

are still reluctant to take<br />

on apprentices because<br />

they have a combination<br />

of no time available to<br />

train, not enough support,<br />

and/or no confidence in<br />

the training provider.<br />

“My <strong>Jewellery</strong> Training<br />

Solutions online training<br />

service offers another<br />

pathway to train to be a<br />

jeweller.”<br />

As for the gemmologists,<br />

federal president of the Gemmological<br />

Association of Australia Katrina Marchioni,<br />

expressed the skills shortage is just as dire in<br />

gemmology as it is in jewellery manufacture.<br />

“Retail jewellers would benefit greatly from<br />

having a gemmologist in every store, for<br />

testing clients’ gemstones as well as stock<br />

items to check for lab-made or treated<br />

gems; it’s a small investment to make that<br />

can potentially save a business thousands of<br />

dollars down the track,” she said.<br />

Katrina also said that “as an industry the trust<br />

of the consumer is so important and having<br />

a qualified gemmologist on staff does go a<br />

long way to building that trust and confidence<br />

between our industry and the consumer”.<br />

She also noted that “with the GAA gemology<br />

diploma and the post-nominal FGAA (Fellow<br />

of the Gemmological Association of Australia)<br />

being well recognised for its high academic<br />

standard worldwide, we are a wonderful,<br />

local resource for those looking to become an<br />

industry professional”.<br />

From the industry network perspective,<br />

managing director of <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry<br />

Network Laura Moore concurred that there<br />

are certainly not enough jewellery students or<br />

apprentices in the market or approaching the<br />

market at the moment, nor have there been<br />

for some time.<br />

“The jewellery<br />

industry has<br />

seen a skills<br />

shortage for<br />

many years,<br />

especially<br />

in certain<br />

disciplines of skill sets, but with the strong<br />

growth of handmade jewellery during the<br />

COVID period, this has been exacerbated,” she<br />

said.<br />

JTS<br />

JIN<br />

28<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


The state of industry vocational<br />

education<br />

As for future jewellery and gemmology talent<br />

coming in, feedback was mixed regarding<br />

student commencement and attrition rates<br />

at TAFE and other government accredited<br />

vocational education institutions. Katrina said<br />

that the numbers of gemmology students at<br />

the GAA haven’t changed much over the past<br />

years however, numbers did drop with COVID.<br />

Practical classes are very difficult to do on line<br />

successfully, she added. She said there is a<br />

small dropout rate, but students are told how<br />

much time they need to put aside each week<br />

and informed that this time is a commitment.<br />

“It is an extensive course and recognised<br />

as one of the world’s leading gemmological<br />

courses,” she said.<br />

Laura said the state of the industry courses<br />

which are state/federal government-run seem<br />

to fluctuate, especially in certain states.<br />

“When student intake is low, it becomes<br />

unfeasible for some states to run jewellery<br />

manufacturing courses,” she said.<br />

GAA<br />

Peter was a jewellery lecturer at the Central<br />

Institute of Technology in WA from 2007<br />

to 2019, and he described how apprentice<br />

numbers fell from 42 apprentices when he<br />

started, to just 6 when he concluded. Plus he<br />

saw a similar precipitous drop in year-overyear<br />

apprentice numbers was also occurring in<br />

the regions, and in many other trades.<br />

“It may just be<br />

timing, but I<br />

think that the<br />

COVID crisis had<br />

a part to play in<br />

re-energising the<br />

bespoke side of<br />

the industry, and<br />

combined with the<br />

state and federal<br />

governments’ new<br />

initiatives that help<br />

to alleviate the<br />

financial pressure<br />

of employing an apprentice, the numbers in<br />

WA have risen to around 20,” he said.<br />

GAA<br />

“When it comes to apprentice attrition, there<br />

is general understanding that an apprentice<br />

will cost you money in year one, break even in<br />

year two and begin to return the investment<br />

by year three.<br />

“In my time I found that between five percent<br />

to ten percent didn’t get to year two.”<br />

GAA<br />

Offering an alternative from traditional<br />

courses, Peter’s JTS educational platform<br />

offers world-renowned training and learning<br />

where a budding jeweller can achieve their<br />

qualifications, the professional jeweller can<br />

hone their skills and the hobbyist can become<br />

competent.<br />

“At present I have over 500 students<br />

worldwide who are working through the<br />

training program.”<br />

Trevor Brown is Bespoke Product Liaison<br />

from Curtis Australia, and he said that the<br />

traditional apprenticeship route in which<br />

apprentice jewellers are employed and<br />

released for trade school blocks is a valuable<br />

one, but there probably needs to be more<br />

consultation about modules and their content.<br />

“Also possibly greater feedback from course<br />

tutors on how the apprentice is progressing,<br />

and on what aspects of training need to be<br />

focused on while in the workplace,” he said.<br />

Current support on offer for<br />

apprentices and their employers<br />

Whilst jewellery and gemmology are often<br />

neglected in terms of government assistance<br />

compared to their other trade counterparts,<br />

Peter said that thanks to very generous state<br />

and federal government incentives, there’s<br />

never been a better time to employ an<br />

apprentice.<br />

Curtis Australia<br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 29


“At time of writing, WA<br />

business owners<br />

that employ an<br />

apprentice can<br />

have half of their<br />

first-year apprentice<br />

salary paid for under<br />

the BAC (Boosting<br />

Apprenticeship<br />

Commencements)<br />

scheme,” he said.<br />

“There are also other cash<br />

incentives offered by the<br />

federal Government.”<br />

He said that industry support is<br />

more difficult as it is a small industry with<br />

limited resources compared to trades such as<br />

automotive and building which are supported<br />

by huge corporations that have a vested<br />

interest.<br />

“Our industry<br />

doesn’t have huge<br />

corporations with<br />

buckets of money...<br />

but maybe there’s<br />

scope for some<br />

kind of collective<br />

support.”<br />

Curtis Australia<br />

Curtis Australia<br />

Director of Curtis Australia, Heather Curtis<br />

agreed that the BAC and CAC (Completing<br />

Apprenticeships Commencements) subsidies<br />

from the federal government have helped,<br />

although they come with a lot of paperwork.<br />

From Laura’s perspective, there have been<br />

some incentives for businesses to take on<br />

apprentices, but not enough to bridge the<br />

gap between the investment needed for the<br />

employer and the student.<br />

“What is required, is for the industry to<br />

have solid statistics and to show its national<br />

contribution to the economy,” she said.<br />

“The government could do a lot to ensure<br />

that Australia’s manufacturing sector is strong,<br />

but the concern is that for all industries<br />

that manufacture products here,<br />

the level of support needed hasn’t<br />

been seen.”<br />

Katrina said that the GAA has<br />

scholarships and prizes on offer<br />

for the best and most promising<br />

gemmology students in a variety of<br />

categories. The GAA is a non-profit<br />

organsiation and recognised as a charity<br />

and thus GST is not charged on the courses.<br />

Encouraging new apprentices and<br />

keeping them in the trade<br />

Katrina said that to encourage more<br />

prospective students to take up gemmology,<br />

word of mouth is the GAA’s best<br />

advertisement.<br />

“Also, just promote the people in the industry<br />

to be the best we can be and enjoy the wealth<br />

of knowledge, inspiration and enjoyment<br />

higher education can offer… knowledge is a<br />

powerful thing,” she said.<br />

As Peter noted earlier, he doesn’t believe<br />

there’s a shortage of potential apprentices,<br />

but there is difficulty for these potential<br />

apprentices to find a job.<br />

“In an ideal world,<br />

there would be<br />

a dedicated,<br />

fully-funded<br />

national jewellery<br />

training program<br />

where students<br />

can enrol into a<br />

pre-apprentice<br />

course where they<br />

can try the trade<br />

and assess if that’s<br />

a career path that<br />

they really want<br />

and to see if they<br />

have the potential<br />

to become a<br />

jeweller,” he said.<br />

He said this model<br />

would mean<br />

the first year of<br />

training would be<br />

completed, and<br />

employers could<br />

then cherry-pick<br />

from the best.<br />

During his time<br />

at TAFE, this was<br />

something he<br />

pushed for, and<br />

with industry<br />

support, managed<br />

to get a fully<br />

funded pre-apprenticeship course up and<br />

running which proved quite successful.<br />

“However, it was cancelled due to its status as<br />

low priority, and so the funding was cut.”<br />

Peter also served on the JAA board for several<br />

years during which time he lobbied the<br />

government to have the trade included on the<br />

skills needs list.<br />

“Being included on the skills needs list may<br />

have helped to keep the pre-apprentice<br />

course going.”<br />

JTS<br />

JIN<br />

30<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


JIN<br />

The future for jewellery and gemmology<br />

education and training<br />

When probed on the outlook for jewellery education and<br />

training, Peter believed the signs were looking very positive for<br />

the industry, as he’s seen a recent surge in the creative side of<br />

the industry, access to industry-relevant training for dedicated<br />

students to take their craft as far as they want to, and a retail<br />

front no longer being necessary for selling jewellery.<br />

“With the power of social<br />

media and online resources,<br />

a lot of students have turned<br />

their hobby into a thriving<br />

business and operate successful<br />

virtual shops selling bespoke<br />

jewellery,” he said.<br />

GAA<br />

“So yes, I am very positive<br />

about the future, especially for<br />

unique handmade jewellery.”<br />

Laura believes that with some proper planning, hard work and<br />

commitment, the future is very bright.<br />

“There is a strong future for the manufacturing sector here<br />

especially as digital enables Australian jewellers to sell overseas,”<br />

she said.<br />

“However, in order for us to maintain this success and the quality<br />

required for Australian made pieces, then the industry must act<br />

quickly to build on the next generations of jewellers.”<br />

For further information:<br />

OSJAG PTY LTD PO Box 4420 North Rocks NSW 2151<br />

+612 9630 6619 admin@osjag.com www.osjag.com


PANDORA CHARM IN<br />

SUPPORT OF UNICEF<br />

The super brand introduces a glow-in-the-dark dangle charm to<br />

celebrate the potential of every young person worldwide.<br />

Pandora has released a limited edition<br />

lightbulb dangle charm, a continuation<br />

of its Charms for Change initiative in<br />

support of UNICEF.<br />

The glow-in-the-dark charm has been<br />

designed to represent a brighter future and to<br />

celebrate the potential of every young person<br />

worldwide, with 15€ from each charm sold<br />

donated to UNICEF.<br />

The Pandora for UNICEF charm is made with<br />

blue glow-in-the-dark glass, reflecting light all<br />

day and night, and symbolising that every child<br />

can let their potential shine.<br />

“We all have a role to play in empowering<br />

the young minds of the next generation,”<br />

said Marissa Saretsky, director of corporate<br />

sustainability. “Proceeds from this charm<br />

will help UNICEF provide young people<br />

and children all around the world with<br />

opportunities to learn and shine bright.”<br />

Pandora is supporting UNICEF’s work across<br />

the world and through the Charms for Change<br />

and other initiatives, Pandora and its fans have<br />

so far donated $6.2 million for UNICEF and<br />

their work, which has contributed to UNICEF<br />

reaching 17 million girls and boys to date.<br />

With support from Pandora, UNICEF has,<br />

for example, trained tutors and educators in<br />

Guatemala in communication strategies and<br />

using technology to overcome educational<br />

barriers further brought on by confinement<br />

during the pandemic. In China, Pandora’s<br />

funding went to support UNICEF’s project to<br />

train school PE teachers, who then helped<br />

over 336,000 students in 500 rural schools<br />

to better enjoy and develop through sports.<br />

Another 120,000 students and 6,000 teachers<br />

have benefitted from UNICEF’s Social and<br />

Emotional Learning resources and support in<br />

China.<br />

And in Nepal, Pandora is supporting UNICEF’s<br />

initiatives to help vulnerable children and<br />

adolescents develop skills and create change<br />

not only in their own lives, but also in their<br />

communities.<br />

Approximately AUD $21 from every purchase<br />

of the lightbulb dangle charm is donated to<br />

UNICEF’s programmes around the world,<br />

allowing Pandora fans to show their support<br />

for UNICEF and its core work in ensuring every<br />

child not only survives, but also thrives.<br />

The Charms for Change glow-in-the-dark<br />

Lightbulb Double Dangle<br />

Charm is available worldwide, online and in<br />

selected stores, from April 7th – July 7th <strong>2022</strong>.<br />

32<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Time to buy Australian-made<br />

Ph: (03) 9650 5955 Fax: (03) 6950 5977<br />

Email: sales@millenniumchain.com.au<br />

Web: www.millenniumchain.com.au<br />

6th Floor, 313 Lt. Collins St.<br />

Melbourne 3000 Victoria<br />

Millennium Chain<br />

Finished Top 5 in the category of<br />

Best Selling Gold <strong>Jewellery</strong> Suppliers in<br />

Australia and NZ, as voted by retailers.<br />

millennium_chain


TIFFANY’S APRIL FOOL’S PRANK<br />

WAS ACTUALLY A LITTLE BIT REAL<br />

“We’re launching our own cryptocurrency called TiffCoin—with exclusive product<br />

launches, NFT releases and invite-only events for top TiffCoin holders!” stated a post<br />

on Twitter. “Get some gold in your wallet with #TiffCoin.”<br />

Like last year’s announcement that the<br />

brand was dropping the duck egg blue and<br />

switching to Big Bird yellow, Tiffany & Co.’s<br />

cryptocurrency was just an April Fool’s joke. Or<br />

was it?<br />

Links on the day revealed that the<br />

cryptocurrency aspect was a prank, but it turns<br />

out the coins actually do exist in real life. As<br />

the company announced on April 2, on socials<br />

and on its own webpage, 499 “Tiffcoins” had<br />

been minted in 18k gold and were available<br />

to buy online for the following 24 hours —<br />

provided you had USD $9,999 for the giggle.<br />

Tiffcoin read “TiffCoins cannot be spent as<br />

actual currency — crypto or otherwise — but<br />

why would you want to?”<br />

With a practical joke this elaborate it’s hard to<br />

tell exactly who the joke is on.<br />

But it’s not the first time Tiffany & Co. have<br />

minted a currency of their own. The 1970s<br />

saw the brand mint and sell “Tiffany Money”<br />

as tokens to be redeemed instore. Earlier this<br />

The exclusive gold coins were individually<br />

engraved, numbered and<br />

packaged in custom<br />

Tiffany Blue dust<br />

bags. There<br />

was a limit<br />

of one per<br />

customer.<br />

The coins<br />

glow a<br />

34.8mm in<br />

diameter and are 2.8mm thick.<br />

According to the Tiffany’s website, TiffCoin<br />

holders receive access to “Tiffany happenings,<br />

bringing high glamour to the Metaverse.”<br />

Given the nature of the prank, this blatantly<br />

dubious assertion is most likely a tongue-incheek<br />

reference to many similarly unspecified<br />

utilities being offered by countless NFTs —<br />

particularly as the product disclaimer on the<br />

34<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Vintage Tiffany Money.<br />

A $100 Tiffany coin sold for USD$525 on<br />

Tradesy this year. Source: Tradesy<br />

year, a vintage magazine advertisement sold on Ebay detailing<br />

the Tiffany Money offer.<br />

“The bride can use them to supplement her registered choices<br />

of silver, crystal and china…” read the ad. “Give her one, ten or a<br />

hundred, Tiffany Money is the one gift a bride can’t get too many<br />

of. And besides, she won’t have so much to lug in to exchange<br />

after the wedding trip.”<br />

At the very least, the advertisement serves as evidence that<br />

Tiffany’s recent irreverent approach to marketing is not without<br />

historical precedent.<br />

In 1974, each sterling<br />

silver coin was priced<br />

at $25 redeemable<br />

for $25 worth of<br />

merchandise.<br />

With many<br />

other businesses<br />

already accepting<br />

cryptocurrency —<br />

from retail jewellers<br />

to high-end watch<br />

brands — it may<br />

only be a matter of<br />

time before Tiffany’s<br />

practical joke<br />

becomes a reality.<br />

1974 advertisement for Tiffany Money. Source: Ebay<br />

Luxury Pearl & Opal <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Tel: (02) 9266 0636 | enquiries@ikecho.com.au<br />

www.ikecho.com.au


TIFFANY EXEC TURNED HIS<br />

CRYPTOPUNK NFT INTO JEWELLERY<br />

A one-off pendant to match a one-off Twitter profile pic.<br />

Back in January this year, Tiffany & Co.’s vice<br />

president, Alexandre Arnault, splashed out<br />

and bought a CryptoPunk for use in his Twitter<br />

profile. Just a few weeks ago, he revealed the<br />

singular piece of jewellery he had created to<br />

actualise his NFT.<br />

What does all that actually mean?<br />

An NFT is a non-fungible token protected<br />

by blockchain. An example is a piece of<br />

digital art. To ensure the art is one of a kind,<br />

singular and unique, its authenticity and<br />

proof of ownership is stored on the Ethereum<br />

blockchain.<br />

CryptoPunks are an example. They are a 24x24<br />

pixel image of a character’s head. Initially,<br />

10,000 were created, each different, all<br />

unique. Each of them could only be ‘owned’<br />

by one person on the Ethereum blockchain.<br />

Originally, they could be claimed for free<br />

by anyone with an Ethereum wallet, but all<br />

10,000 were quickly claimed. Now they have<br />

to be traded via the marketplace that is also<br />

embedded on the blockchain.<br />

Like anything that is scarce – no matter what it<br />

might be – the price has gone up.<br />

The current cheapest punk available is 60 ETH,<br />

which translates to USD $177,199.<br />

Arnault bought Punk No.<br />

3167, a snappy little fellow<br />

with a knitted red cap, 3D<br />

glasses and an earring. He<br />

paid 160 ETH, or around<br />

USD $416,427.<br />

I’d like to stress one more time that he<br />

purchased pixels. A grid of 24 x 24 of them.<br />

Just to clarify.<br />

Clearly not content with the non tangible<br />

nature of his non fungible token, Arnault<br />

presumably instructed the jewellers under<br />

his command as Tiffany vice<br />

president to create him a<br />

more substantial copy of his<br />

avatar. The RL version has<br />

3-D glasses rendered with a<br />

baguette-cut sapphire and<br />

Mozambique ruby, and a<br />

yellow diamond takes the<br />

place of its earring. Both the<br />

Tiffany & Co. name and the<br />

NFT’s number are engraved<br />

on the reverse.<br />

The 29 year old’s father, Bernard Arnault,<br />

CEO of LVMH, has expressed concerns about<br />

luxury brands entering into the metaverse<br />

‘bubble’. “It can undoubtedly have a positive<br />

impact—if it is well done—on the activity of<br />

the brands, but it is not our objective to sell<br />

virtual sneakers at €10,” the tycoon told Vogue<br />

Business. “We are not interested in that.”<br />

But other brands have entered the virtual fray.<br />

Louis Vuitton launched “Louis the Game” last<br />

August in which players could collect NFTs in<br />

celebration of the brand’s 200th birthday. Dior<br />

has Ready Player Me, a platform that connects<br />

over 300 games and applications.<br />

36<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


According to legend and lore, the idea of a birthstone chart goes back to Biblical times and the<br />

Breastplate of Aaron, which was set with twelve gemstones. A writer in the first century postulated<br />

that these gems directly correlated with the twelve astrological signs of the Zodiac and that these<br />

stones were beneficial to the health of the wearer. While the perception of the 12-stone birthstone<br />

chart has changed over the centuries, it still implies “to each her stone.”<br />

By Cynthia Unninayar<br />

Pearls have fascinated<br />

humans since antiquity. These<br />

shimmering gems have evolved over the<br />

millennia from objects thought to possess<br />

magical powers to become a staple of<br />

modern jewellery.<br />

THE POWER OF PEARLS<br />

The Birthstone of June<br />

The first pearl necklace is considered to date back 2500 years to<br />

the Persian kings in Susa with the discovery of a three-strand<br />

necklace in their Winter Palace. Other adornments have<br />

been found in ancient India, Sri Lanka, China and elsewhere around<br />

the world. Following the conquests of Alexander the Great, large<br />

quantities of pearls flowed into Europe, where they adorned royalty<br />

and embellished sacred objects of the Church. In the 1500s, European<br />

royal families sought out the natural pearls that came from the New<br />

<strong>World</strong>, elevating them to the status of, if not higher than, the gold and<br />

emeralds coming from the newly discovered continents.<br />

Jumping ahead several centuries, the popularity of natural pearls<br />

reached its height, as did prices, with pearl jewellery accounting<br />

for a large portion of a jeweller’s sales. “Natural pearls were highly<br />

appreciated in the late 19th and early 20th centuries,” says Ioannis<br />

Alexandris, CEO of Gemolithos, a Germany-based firm specialising<br />

in antique jewellery. “They were used both as main elements in a<br />

piece or as accents. Beautiful examples of natural pearls are found in<br />

many Belle Epoque jewels from this period.” He goes on to add that<br />

“because of their rarity, prices continue to rise for natural pearls.”<br />

In 1916, a seismic shift occurred, dramatically changing the course<br />

of the five-millennia history of the pearl. The Japanese company<br />

Mikimoto began marketing round “cultured” pearls, created by a<br />

technique discovered by Kokichi Mikimoto in 1893. Although the<br />

natural pearl industry continued into the mid-20th century, the less<br />

expensive cultured pearls offered women of all economic groups the<br />

opportunity to own a pearl necklace or other pearl jewellery.<br />

From Japan, the culture of pearls rapidly spread around the world.<br />

The shimmering little gems began appearing in all types, shapes, and<br />

colours—from salt-water species to freshwater molluscs. They came<br />

to market from Australia, French Polynesia, China, Indonesia, the<br />

Philippines, Myanmar, Mexico, China and more.<br />

Above: Tahitian pearl necklace by Devino.<br />

(Photo: Devino)<br />

Fabergé pendant featuring a natural pearl and<br />

diamonds set in gold, Belle Epoque, early 1900s.<br />

(Photo: Gemolithos)<br />

Mabé pearl set in sterling<br />

silver by Bella Donna Silver.<br />

(Photo: Bella Donna Silver)<br />

Round Edison pearl (9mm) set in 9ct gold by<br />

Ikecho. (Photo: Ikecho)<br />

Today, the cultured pearl continues to enjoy a high degree of popularity<br />

and the traditional strand has become a must-have in many jewellery<br />

wardrobes. Even the natural pearl, while rare and very expensive, has<br />

an audience, even if much more restricted than before. While cultured<br />

salt-water South Sea pearls have reduced price levels from those of the<br />

natural pearls, there has been further “democratisation” of the pearl<br />

industry with the arrival of freshwater species, with 95 percent coming<br />

notably from China.<br />

38<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Mabé pearl pendant set in<br />

sterling silver by Bella Donna Silver.<br />

(Photo: Bella Donna Silver)<br />

Necklace comprised of a selection of different pearl types<br />

and colours by Devino. (Photo: Devino)<br />

Continuing appeal<br />

Why do pearls have such appeal? “Pearls are classic, and I think they will<br />

always be regarded as a popular jewellery category,” says Erica Miller,<br />

director and designer at Sydney-based Ikecho, specialising in South Sea,<br />

Tahitian, Akoya, Mabé and Chinese Freshwater Pearls. “They can be<br />

dressed up or down. There is so much variety of styles and colours,<br />

so they match any outfit.” She notes that earrings and pendants<br />

are quite popular but that “customers always love the classic stud<br />

earrings, and all ages wear them on a daily basis.”<br />

“Pearls are very fashionable, and their glowing lustre perfectly<br />

complements gemstones,” explains Caroline Zingg, pearl<br />

specialist at Sydney-based Devino, which specialises in Akoya,<br />

Tahitian and White South Sea pearls as well as custom<br />

requests and hard-to-find pearls. “Younger consumers have<br />

a strong interest in pearl jewellery and appreciate the fact that<br />

the gems are a renewable and sustainable resource.” She adds<br />

that she has seen strong demand in the last few years, both with<br />

classic gem quality strands and unique creations, which they set in<br />

18ct gold. “The large range of sizes, colours, and shapes enable many<br />

combinations. Each pearl is one of a kind and it is very hard to compare<br />

one to another, making them very individual items of jewellery.”<br />

Based in Nambour QLD, Bella Donna Silver features a pearl line in its<br />

sterling silver collection of jewellery. Donna Quinn, owner, says that<br />

pearls are so popular because they “are soft and beautiful, giving great<br />

energy to pearl-loving people.” She explains that button pearls and<br />

Mabé pearls are the company’s most popular types, adding “We also<br />

have recently introduced Rice pearls.”<br />

Baroque “Quetzal” brooch featuring a baroque South<br />

Sea Golden Pearl set in 18ct gold and diamonds by<br />

Jewelmer. (Photo: Jewelmer)<br />

“Seahorse” brooch featuring<br />

baroque pearls, gemstones, and<br />

diamonds in 18ct gold by Alessio<br />

Boschi. (Photo: Alessio Boschi)<br />

Dressing up the pearl itself is seen<br />

in this soufflé variety, sliced in half<br />

and set with turquoise, rubies and<br />

seed pearls with gold accents and<br />

ear wires. (Photo: Little H)<br />

Pink 9mm Chinese freshwater pearl button<br />

studs in sterling silver by Ikecho. (Photo: Ikecho)<br />

Going for baroque<br />

Increasingly, the classic round pearl is sharing the spotlight with other<br />

types of pearls. Miller notes that “the irregular baroque and keshi<br />

styles are very on-trend at the moment, as well as freshwater Edison<br />

pearls, which look very similar to the Broome South Sea Pearl but are<br />

very affordable.”<br />

Baroque pearls also afford endless possibilities for creative designers,<br />

whose imaginations pair them with coloured gemstones, other types<br />

and colours of pearls, and even diamonds for a look that is original and<br />

individual.<br />

Thailand-based Italian designer brand Alessio Boschi has had a<br />

longstanding love affair with baroque pearls. He seeks out these<br />

“perfectly imperfect pearls” to embellish his collection of whimsical<br />

sea life, rabbits, cats, mythical creatures and other motifs. He also uses<br />

baroque pearls to bring attention to climate change and melting icecaps<br />

that evoke desperate polar bears or endangered sharks.<br />

Dressing up pearls in a different way is USA-based pearl brand Little H.<br />

Designer Hisano Shepherd often slices pearls, including rare freshwater<br />

soufflé types, and fills them with an array of gems for a surprising and<br />

colourful geode effect.<br />

With its versatility, beauty and availability in modern and traditional<br />

jewellery styles, set with coloured gems, diamonds or even stand-alone,<br />

it is no wonder that the power of the pearl makes this organic gem the<br />

perfect birthstone for June. ■<br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 39


TAG HEUER’S NEW WATCH WITH<br />

LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS<br />

The Watches and Wonders show in Geneva last month saw Tag Heuer unveil<br />

the Carrera Plasma — a new iteration of the famed Carrera model but now<br />

featuring 11.7 carats of lab-grown diamonds.<br />

The Swiss watchmaker, whose initials<br />

— TAG — stand for Techniques d’Avant<br />

Garde, has lived up to the promise<br />

embodied in those initials. The company sees<br />

the incorporation of lab-grown diamonds into<br />

its brand as a major milestone in the over-160-<br />

year company history and the watch industry<br />

at large.<br />

Entering the lab-grown diamond sector is a<br />

defining step for a watch company and Tag<br />

Heuer has chosen to focus on the avant-garde<br />

aesthetics as well as redefining technological<br />

and creative limits. By adding the precision<br />

aspect of lab-grown diamonds into its product<br />

universe, Tag Heuer is provided with a creative<br />

freedom that rarely comes with mined<br />

diamonds. New diamond shapes are possible<br />

and the stones can be used in unique and<br />

innovative ways.<br />

“Chemical vapour deposition (CVD)<br />

technology, which we refer to as ‘Diamant<br />

d’Avant-Garde’ at TAG Heuer, enables us<br />

to explore the versatility of carbon in the<br />

form of lab-grown diamonds – to create a<br />

stunning timepiece where diamonds are<br />

used in very unique shapes and textures.<br />

Lab-grown diamonds allow us to innovate and<br />

experiment with this exceptional material, and<br />

this opens up a new realm of possibilities for<br />

designers, watchmakers and engineers”, said<br />

Edouard Mignon, chief innovation officer at<br />

Tag Heuer.<br />

The TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma, powered by<br />

the H02 Tourbillon Nanograph movement, has<br />

CVD lab-grown diamonds set in the case, and<br />

features embellished indexes. A polycrystalline<br />

diamond dial is one incredible component<br />

of this new watch. It looks like many tiny<br />

40<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


diamonds on the dial, but the face is actually one single<br />

plate of 3.9 carat diamond. This is CVD technology. Diamond<br />

does not exist in nature in this format says the company.<br />

More diamonds embellish the case, all in custom shapes<br />

that would have been prohibitively expensive to fashion<br />

(and source) from natural stones. The crown, at 3 o’clock,<br />

is created entirely in a 2.5 carat lab-grown diamond. The 11<br />

indexes in white gold are set with a diamond each and sport<br />

a double index at 12 o’clock.<br />

The lab-grown diamonds used are manufactured by a<br />

network of partners specialising in lab-grown diamond<br />

design, including Capsoul, a start-up based in Israel.<br />

The innovations go well beyond the surface and into the<br />

Nanograph movement which is equipped with a carbon<br />

hairspring also using CVD technology.<br />

The watch took two years to design and produce and will<br />

retail for 350,000 Swiss francs (AUD $505,000). It is the<br />

most expensive Tag Heuer timepiece yet produced and<br />

the brand says it expects to produce three or four Plasma<br />

watches this year.<br />

DISCOVER THE<br />

WORLD OF PEARLS<br />

A: 1202/115 PITT STREET, SYDNEY NSW 2000<br />

T: 02 9261 3555 | E: DEVINO@DEVINO.COM | W: DEVINO.COM


AN OMEGA SPEEDMASTER FOR $380?<br />

The Omega x Swatch Bioceramic MoonSwatch is cleared for landing.<br />

In what might be the coolest collaboration in watches since Antoni Patek<br />

met Adrien Philippe in 1844, Omega and Swatch have collaborated on the<br />

famous ‘Moonwatch’ and completely changed the world.<br />

The result is being called the MoonSwatch and its release caused<br />

chaos around the planet. Who on earth said wristwatches were<br />

dead? In scenes to rival new iPhone drops, watch enthusiasts<br />

camped out all night, lines stretched around blocks from Geneva<br />

to Melbourne — and, by all accounts, a jolly good time was had by<br />

all. Aside from Singapore, where one man allowed the stress of the<br />

moment to overwhelm his commonsense, most shoppers found<br />

the atmosphere festive, commenting on the arrival of a new era in<br />

watchmaking.<br />

In Australia, the Swatch stores in Melbourne and Sydney saw crowds<br />

lining up overnight, while similar frenzied scenes took place in<br />

Hong Kong, Singapore, London, New York and in<br />

Switzerland. Swatch was obliged to limit sales to<br />

one watch per customer with an apology and<br />

the promise to revert back to two watches per<br />

customer as soon as possible. Both companies<br />

appeared taken aback by what Swatch called<br />

“unexpected and phenomenal demand.”<br />

So what is all the fuss about?<br />

As the brands involved say, this collab “follows the popular trend of<br />

collaborations between luxury and street brands to create innovative<br />

new products that blend the best of both worlds”. The new watch has<br />

the look and style of an Omega Speedmaster and the price of a Swatch.<br />

For Omega, the joint mission is both a fun undertaking and a respectful<br />

nod to the plucky company that risked it all to kick-start the ailing Swiss<br />

watch industry during the quartz revolution in the 1980s.<br />

Omega’s Speedmaster is often known as the Moonwatch, given that it is<br />

one of the few wristwatches to have walked on the moon. It generally<br />

retails in Australia for around $7,500.<br />

The brands have created a series of 11 watches that<br />

take their design inspiration from space.<br />

Named after the planets, the sun, honorary<br />

planet Pluto, and the moon, the watches<br />

are colourful — but even a keen Omega fan<br />

42<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong><br />

Original speedmaster


would be hard pushed to tell the design differences in<br />

the overall look. The key Moonwatch design features<br />

are all there. The asymmetrical case, the famous<br />

tachymeter scale with dot over ninety and the<br />

distinctive Speedmaster subdials, which all work<br />

perfectly.<br />

All of the Swatches are in Bioceramic, a unique<br />

mix of two-thirds ceramic and one-third<br />

material derived from castor oil. The result is an<br />

extraordinarily lightweight watch that fans say feels<br />

as if it defies gravity on your wrist.<br />

For Omega President and CEO Raynald Aeschlimann,<br />

the new collection is a source of pride. “Omega’s long<br />

and distinguished history may have been cut short if it wasn’t<br />

for the vision and the courage taken by Swatch. The MoonSwatch<br />

collection salutes the saviours of our<br />

industry in a witty and accessible way.<br />

The Swatches are perfect for budding<br />

Moonwatch fans and I can’t think of a<br />

more appropriate icon for our shared<br />

project. We went to the moon, now<br />

we’re exploring the whole Milky Way.<br />

They’re great watches, in fantastic<br />

colours and they make me smile.”<br />

The new collection, in rarely seen<br />

colours, is all about giving Omega’s<br />

professional timepiece a playful<br />

twist. Each MoonSwatch features its<br />

own mission statement, inspirational<br />

engravings and joint Omega X Swatch<br />

logos on the dial and crown. The<br />

battery cover on each watch features<br />

a depiction of its planet. A spacesuitready<br />

Velcro strap adds a final touch of<br />

astronaut chic.<br />

Retailing in Australia for $380, the<br />

watches are not yet available online<br />

— only via selected stores. Swatch<br />

has insisted it will try to fulfil demand<br />

and promises that "that anyone who<br />

is moonstruck by this Omega x Swatch<br />

collaboration will soon be able to lay<br />

their hands on one of these watches."<br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 43


ROLEX IS THE WORLD’S<br />

MOST INSTAGRAMMABLE<br />

WATCH BRAND<br />

Online watch market portal Chrono24 has recently found<br />

that the watch brand enjoying the largest number of<br />

hashtags on social media platform Instagram is Rolex.<br />

Chrono24 conducted research aiming to learn which watch was the most Instagrammed<br />

in the world, and found that (at the time of research) Rolex had a massive 2,496,606<br />

combined hashtag instances for #rolexwatch and #rolexwatches.<br />

The hashtag #rolexwatch had been used more than 1.8m times by Instagram users while<br />

the more specific hashtag #rolexoyster has been used for more than 100k Instagram<br />

posts. Other combinations of ‘rolex’ and other words such as ‘new’, ‘style’ etc filled the<br />

remaining instances.<br />

American brand Fossil came in at second place with 2,055,477 combined hashtag<br />

instances for #fossilwatch and #fossilwatches on Instagram.<br />

Japanese brands took third and fourth place with Casio with 1,156,958 Instagram hashtag<br />

usages while Seiko came in fourth.<br />

The top ten most Instagrammed watches are:<br />

Rolex – 2,497,606<br />

Fossil – 2,055,477<br />

Casio – 1,156,958<br />

Seiko – 1,089,534<br />

Michael Kors – 940,615<br />

Guess – 868,911<br />

Omega – 783,401<br />

G-SHOCK – 733,892<br />

Cartier – 441,619<br />

Gucci – 420,012<br />

A spokesperson from Chrono24.com commented: “Watches are an effective way to<br />

complement a style and are sometimes used as a statement piece to emulate success<br />

with many using social media to show off their luxury timepieces. The data shows that<br />

watchmakers such as Rolex and Seiko are the most popular, but fashion designer brands<br />

like Michael Kors and Guess are breaking into the watchmaking industry.”<br />

It is interesting to note the number of reasonably ‘affordable’ watch brands in that list,<br />

with seven out of the top ten offering excellent value timepieces.<br />

44<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


BREITLING’S LEGENDARY<br />

TIMEPIECE TURNS 70<br />

For 70 years, Breitling’s original pilot’s watch has been beloved by aviators<br />

and tastemakers in equal measure. Worn by an astronaut in space and the<br />

biggest stars on Earth, it is Breitling’s most iconic timepiece.<br />

The brand has unveiled a redesigned<br />

collection of the Navitimer that is all about<br />

bold colour.<br />

“We don’t throw the term ‘icon’ around<br />

lightly,” says Georges Kern, CEO of<br />

Breitling. “The Navitimer is one of the most<br />

recognisable watches ever made. It’s on<br />

collectors’ lists of the greatest watches of all<br />

time. What began as a tool for pilots has gone<br />

on to mean something profound to every<br />

single person who has had this timepiece<br />

along on their personal journey.”<br />

Not even its inventor could have predicted the<br />

phenomenon the Navitimer would become. In<br />

1952, Willy Breitling developed a wrist-worn<br />

chronograph with a circular slide rule that<br />

would allow pilots to perform all necessary<br />

flight calculations. Two years later, the Aircraft<br />

Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA), the<br />

largest aviators’ club in the world, announced<br />

the design as its official timepiece. The<br />

association’s winged logo was emblazoned<br />

at 12 o’clock, and the “navigation timer”—or<br />

Navitimer—was born.<br />

To create the new Navitimer, Breitling<br />

preserved the most recognisable aspects of<br />

the icon’s design code. From a distance, this<br />

is unmistakably a Navitimer, with its circular<br />

slide rule, baton indexes, trio of chronograph<br />

counters, and notched bezel for easy grip. Up<br />

close, however, its modern refinements come<br />

through loud and clear.<br />

A flattened slide rule and a domed crystal<br />

create the illusion of a more compact profile.<br />

Alternating polished and brushed finishes give<br />

the metal elements a lustrous yet understated<br />

quality. A slimmer silhouette on the oscillating<br />

weight enhances the open-caseback view<br />

of the COSC-certified Breitling Manufacture<br />

Caliber 01. This movement is backed by a<br />

five-year warranty, provides approximately 70<br />

hours of power reserve, and allows the wearer<br />

to change the date—now visible through a<br />

discreet window in the subdial at 6 o’clock—at<br />

any time.<br />

The watch comes in a range of sizes (46, 43,<br />

or 41 mm), two case materials (stainless steel<br />

or 18-karat red gold), and a choice of straps<br />

(semi-shiny alligator or seven-row metal<br />

bracelet). Modern colours in shades of blue,<br />

green, and copper define its updated dial<br />

options. And if there is one feature sure to<br />

spark nostalgia, it’s the return of the AOPA<br />

wings to their original position at 12 o’clock.<br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 45


NEW PRODUCTS<br />

Ellendale Diamonds Australia | Desert Rose<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> | +61 8 6180 1562<br />

Large and small captivating 18K W/R gold perpetual circular<br />

pendants.<br />

Large –16=0.24ct round white diamonds FSI and 16=0.24ct round<br />

Argyle pink diamonds 7PR SIAV.<br />

Small –8=0.12ct round white diamonds G+ SI and 8=0.12ct round<br />

Argyle pink diamonds 7PR SIAV.<br />

www.ellendalediamonds.com.au<br />

Ellani Collections | +61 2 9899 1525<br />

New heart designs from the Ellani AW <strong>2022</strong> release, silver with gold<br />

or rose gold plating with cubic zirconia.<br />

www.ellanicollections.com.au<br />

Ellendale Diamonds Australia | Desert Rose<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> | +61 8 6180 1562<br />

18K W/R gold cluster earrings. Versatile and vivacious.<br />

Square earrings feature of 18=0.27ct Argyle pink diamonds<br />

6PP SIAV enveloped by 32=0.48ct G+ SI diamonds.<br />

Round earrings feature 14=0.168ct Argyle pink diamonds 6PP<br />

SIAV and completed with 24=0.36ct G+ SI diamonds.<br />

www.ellendalediamonds.com.au<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre | +61 7 3221 3838<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre’s New Range of Pendants<br />

9ct yellow gold assorted pendants:<br />

White CZ dragonfly pendant<br />

White CZ open heart pendant<br />

Diamond moon pendant<br />

www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com<br />

46<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


astian inverun | Osjag<br />

The latest release from bastian inverun silver. Freshwater<br />

pearl set in silver with 18ct gold plate.<br />

www.osjag.com<br />

Stones and Silver<br />

+61 3 9587 1215<br />

Beautiful new .925 Sterling Silver<br />

birthflower necklaces. Available in<br />

a set of 12, one for each month or<br />

individually they are the perfect<br />

range to compliment your store.<br />

stonesandsilver.com.au<br />

Bianc | +61 413 872 810<br />

Bianc introduces some beautiful new additions to the Sirène<br />

Collection, featuring contemporary chokers and bold baroque pearls.<br />

All pearls are freshwater. These stunning pieces range from<br />

RRP$99-$359.<br />

info@bianc.com.au | @bianc_jewellery | www.bianc.com.au<br />

Ikecho Australia | +61 2 9266 0636<br />

Sterling silver U-shaped keshi white 10-11mm & opal<br />

6mm stud earrings. Product code” IP150EU-OK6<br />

www.ikecho.com.au<br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 47


International trade shows!<br />

Missed the thrill of baggage claim? The exotic lure of check-in queues and customs control? Aching to feel<br />

that long-haul air-conditioning in your hair, the crisp tingle of micro-packets of peanuts in your fingers? Want<br />

to get out into the world again, see what everyone’s been up to?<br />

Aussies, Kiwi, they’ve let us out, we can travel again! And an international jewellery show or two makes a fine<br />

excuse to dust off the passport and pack a bag. Let’s go!<br />

Here is a list of up-coming international fairs and trade shows – a list that looks more and more stable as<br />

things return to what is definitely not normal but probably as close as we’re going to get. (Not complaining!)<br />

Gem Genève<br />

<strong>May</strong> 5-8, <strong>2022</strong><br />

26th International <strong>Jewellery</strong>, Kobe<br />

<strong>May</strong> 26-28, <strong>2022</strong><br />

Antique <strong>Jewellery</strong> and Watch Show, Las Vegas <strong>2022</strong><br />

June 9-12, <strong>2022</strong><br />

JCK Luxury Las Vegas <strong>2022</strong><br />

June 8-13, <strong>2022</strong><br />

JCK Las Vegas <strong>2022</strong><br />

June 10-13, <strong>2022</strong><br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> and Gem ASIA Hong Kong<br />

June 16-19, <strong>2022</strong><br />

Bangkok Gems and <strong>Jewellery</strong> Fair (BGCF)<br />

September 7-11, <strong>2022</strong><br />

Denver HardRock Summit Sparkle and Joy<br />

September 8-11, <strong>2022</strong><br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> and Gem <strong>World</strong> Hong Kong<br />

September 16-19, <strong>2022</strong><br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> and Gem <strong>World</strong> Singapore<br />

September 27-30, <strong>2022</strong><br />

Mineralientage München and Gemworld Munich <strong>2022</strong><br />

September 30-October 2, <strong>2022</strong><br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> and Gem ASEAN Bangkok<br />

November 2-5, <strong>2022</strong><br />

HKTDC Hong Kong International <strong>Jewellery</strong> Show<br />

July 29-August 2, <strong>2022</strong><br />

48<br />

jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Calling all Retailers<br />

Calling all Retailers<br />

Calling all Retailers


chain<br />

services<br />

services<br />

AUSTRALIAN<br />

JEWELLERY TOOLS<br />

WHOLESALER<br />

SPECIALISING IN QUALITY<br />

JEWELLERY TOOLS & EQUIPMENT<br />

WITH EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE<br />

Chris O’Neill<br />

Piecemaker<br />

2015 YJG Bench Challenge<br />

Hand Engraving Champion.<br />

Also specialising in quality<br />

Handmakes, Repairs and<br />

Antique restorations in the<br />

Sydney CBD.<br />

0405 689 834<br />

MILN & CO. Pty Ltd<br />

Ph: 02 4655 7707 M: 0412 702 834<br />

E:stuart.miln@milnco.com.au<br />

Lancier Watch Bands - Leather, metal, sports.<br />

Watchglasses. Seals. Batteries. Quartz Movements.<br />

Pins/tools. <strong>Jewellery</strong> findings. J C Hurst Bangles.<br />

Fischer Barometers and Tide Clocks<br />

for sale<br />

PO Box 112<br />

Toronto NSW 2283<br />

P: 02 9380 4742 ∙ F: 02 8580 6168<br />

E: sales@adelaimports.com<br />

Adela Imports offer over 180<br />

designs of sterling silver chain,<br />

with up to 20 lengths available<br />

in each from stock.<br />

Also offering a range of<br />

uniquely designed silver<br />

jewellery.<br />

Catalogue available.<br />

www.adelaimports.com<br />

(07) 3876 7481<br />

sales@labanda.com.au<br />

FAX: (07) 3368 3100<br />

ADELAIDE (08) 7221 2202<br />

MELBOURNE (03) 9038 8545<br />

PERTH (08) 6363 5517<br />

SYDNEY (02) 8004 1626<br />

www.labanda.com.au<br />

diamonds and coloured stones<br />

Glues<br />

for sale<br />

Retail <strong>Jewellery</strong> Business for Sale<br />

Established 35 years ago in<br />

busy Gold Coast street location.<br />

Includes retail fit out, fully<br />

equipped jewellery, valuation and<br />

watchmaking workshops. Would<br />

suit a manufacturing jeweller<br />

specialising in design and makes<br />

and/or watchmaker.<br />

Owners seeking to retire<br />

$75,000 plus stock at cost.<br />

Contact Norm on 0450 903 325.<br />

Fantastic Sea Change Opportunity<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> and Giftware Business in Nelson Bay, NSW<br />

Established 21 years ago in coastal area of Port Stephens.<br />

Only 2.5 hours drive north of Sydney. Only one other manufacturing competitor.<br />

Swim software for POS and Stock management, including price tickets. Retail has large<br />

Chubb safe and alarm systems in both locations. Great retail location in Main Street and<br />

workshop located separately 85 meters away in arcade.<br />

Low rent $42K annual for both shops. Both leases negotiable. Large marketable client list.<br />

W.I.W.O $450,000 ONO [Current stock $178K at cost ($501K retail), fittings and equipment<br />

$61K]. Workshop includes display windows, 2 x work benches, Ratner safe and office<br />

fittings only, not tools. Take without stock at $275,000.<br />

Contact Roger 0414 821 931<br />

ADVERTISE HERE<br />

The classifieds section is an excellent place for suppliers and<br />

manufacturers to advertise products and services in a longrunning,<br />

low cost way.<br />

All size ads are available and may include product<br />

photos. Visit our website to download our media<br />

for prices.<br />

www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

pack<br />

Relaxing ...<br />

A group of chess enthusiasts checked into a hotel and were<br />

standing in the lobby discussing their recent tournament victories.<br />

After about an hour, the manager came out of the office and<br />

asked them to disperse. “But why?” they asked, as they moved off.<br />

“Because,” he said, “I can’t stand chess nuts boasting in an open<br />

foyer.”<br />

Police arrested two kids yesterday. One was drinking battery acid,<br />

the other was eating fireworks. They charged one and let the other<br />

one off.<br />

I’m on a whiskey diet. I’ve lost three days already.


Calling all Suppliers<br />

Calling all Suppliers<br />

Calling all Suppliers


SPECIALISING IN ITALIAN MADE<br />

TENNIS MOUNTS AND GOLD CHAINS

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