Jewellery World Magazine - May 2022
This month's issue details lab-grown diamonds and their spectacular rise in recent years. Once shunned by jewellers and customers alike, they're now a staple for so many jewellery retailers. The state of education in the jewellery industry is also examined in depth. Plus, lab-grown diamonds in watches and all the latest news from brands and industry as a whole.
This month's issue details lab-grown diamonds and their spectacular rise in recent years. Once shunned by jewellers and customers alike, they're now a staple for so many jewellery retailers. The state of education in the jewellery industry is also examined in depth. Plus, lab-grown diamonds in watches and all the latest news from brands and industry as a whole.
Transform your PDFs into Flipbooks and boost your revenue!
Leverage SEO-optimized Flipbooks, powerful backlinks, and multimedia content to professionally showcase your products and significantly increase your reach.
MAY <strong>2022</strong><br />
AUSTRALIA AND NEW<br />
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
Quality Findings<br />
Discover the ultimate collection of<br />
world-famous, high-quality findings.<br />
1300 886 108 | AUSTRALIA WIDE | palloys.com
Affection Diamonds<br />
Suite 504, Level -5 250 Pitt Street Sydney NSW -2000<br />
Call Us: 02 9264 2211 | Mobile: 0400 60 70 70<br />
Email: affectiondiamonds@gmail.com<br />
www.affectiondiamonds.com.au<br />
YOUR ONE STOP SHOP FOR DIAMONDS<br />
Buy Diamonds With Confidence * Diamond & <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
Wholesaler * Gemstones Available on Order<br />
Gia Certified Diamonds | Argyle Pinks | Natural Fancy Colour<br />
Diamonds | Calibrated Small Diamonds | Old Cut, Single Cut<br />
& Rose Cut Diamonds | Matching Pairs | Black & Salt & Pepper<br />
Diamonds | Treated Colour Diamonds<br />
Follow us on :
<strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />
ABN: 82 637 204 454<br />
ISSN: 2207-6751<br />
PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570<br />
P: 0431 844 903<br />
Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
managing director<br />
Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903<br />
jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
editor<br />
editor@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
contributing writers<br />
Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />
Stefan Juengling<br />
Cynthia Unninayer<br />
Cheryl D Harty<br />
art<br />
design@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
advertising sales<br />
sales@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
REGULARS<br />
6 News<br />
12 Palloy's Points<br />
14 Trade Well with Rami Baron<br />
16 JAA News<br />
38 Birthstone - Pearl<br />
40 Watches<br />
46 New Products<br />
50 Directory<br />
FEATURES<br />
18 Lab-grown diamonds<br />
Finding new ways to shine.<br />
Acceptance of lab-grown diamonds has been a<br />
long, hard road, but now their time has come.<br />
20<br />
28<br />
34<br />
28 Training tomorrow's jewellers and gemmologists<br />
Any look at the future of our industry has to<br />
include the training of our newest members.<br />
What is the state of education for Australia's<br />
future jewellers and gemmologists?<br />
DISCLAIMER:<br />
This publication may not be reproduced<br />
in whole or part without the written<br />
permission of the Publisher.<br />
Articles express the opinions of the<br />
authors and are not necessarily those of the<br />
Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or<br />
service in this magazine does not indicate the<br />
Publisher’s endorsement.<br />
AUSTRALIA AND NEW<br />
MAY <strong>2022</strong><br />
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE<br />
The Publisher excludes all liability for<br />
loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false<br />
or misleading statements that may appear<br />
in this publication.<br />
All information is copyright.<br />
FRONT COVER<br />
JC Jewels<br />
www.jcjewels.com.au<br />
4<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />
All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />
• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, 2020 (Homebush)<br />
• International • Sydney AGHA <strong>Jewellery</strong> Gift Fair -September - February 21-24, 12-14, 2020 (Homebush)<br />
(Darling Harbour)<br />
• International <strong>Jewellery</strong> Fair -September 12-14, 2020 (Darling Harbour)<br />
TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU
News<br />
The Golden Horseshoe Parade<br />
The Victorian town of Beechworth recently held its famous<br />
“Golden Horseshoe” Parade, celebrating one of the most<br />
colourful election campaigns in Australian history.<br />
Christie’s sells pink diamond for $6.8m<br />
A rare 8.82-carat Fancy intense purple-pink, pear modified brilliant-cut diamond,<br />
set in a platinum ring with two 0.61-carat stones, sold for USD $6,780,000 at<br />
Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York in mid-April.<br />
The gem, known as the Fuchsia Rose diamond, sold well above the pre-sale<br />
estimate of $4 million to $6 million.<br />
Another highlight was a 2.44 carat Fancy intense pink diamond ring, which sold<br />
for $1,620,000; and a Fancy vivid yellow diamond ring of 15.31 carats, which<br />
sold for $1,320,000.<br />
Swarovski signs five year contract with Climeworks<br />
Building on its sustainability strategy, Swarovski has signed a five year<br />
agreement with Climeworks, a leader in carbon dioxide removal via direct air<br />
capture.<br />
Swarovski joined the Science Based<br />
Targets initiative in 2021, announcing its<br />
commitment to reduce absolute scope<br />
1 and 2 emissions (direct and indirect<br />
emissions from owned operations) by 47<br />
percent by 2030.<br />
In 1855, two rival gold mining factions (the Monkeys and<br />
the Punchers) were competing for their own elected<br />
candidate. The Monkeys rode into town from their<br />
Woolshed diggings, loudly supporting their candidate<br />
Daniel Cameron who was unusually visible to all voters<br />
– his horse had been shod with two golden shoes. The<br />
gold had been supplied by “Big” Johnson, owner of the<br />
Woolshed’s richest claim.<br />
The<br />
campaigning<br />
strategy<br />
worked and<br />
Cameron<br />
quickly won<br />
the election<br />
based on a<br />
show of hands<br />
among the miners. “Big” Johnson celebrated the win with<br />
a 300 pound champagne shout, although he did discover<br />
that gold is not the best material for horse shoes – after a<br />
one mile ride, the weight of the horse shoes had dropped<br />
by one ounce.<br />
A replica of the Golden Horseshoes is on display in the<br />
town. Each shoe weighs 580 grams and the pair are valued<br />
at $60,000.<br />
In addition, Swarovski wants to get<br />
started on carbon removal as well,<br />
acknowledging the importance of<br />
removing residual and historic CO₂ emissions from the atmosphere on top of<br />
emissions reductions. In order to limit global warming to 1.5°C, the world needs<br />
to reach net-zero emissions by mid-century, and net-negative emissions after<br />
that.<br />
Climeworks is a Swiss-based company currently leading the world in carbon<br />
capture and storage.<br />
6<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
WHY JOIN<br />
SHOWCASE<br />
JEWELLERS?<br />
AUSTRALIAN<br />
PINK<br />
DIAMONDS<br />
IN HOUSE<br />
LOOSE<br />
DIAMOND<br />
INVENTORY<br />
BEST<br />
SUPPLIER<br />
DISCOUNTS<br />
ALL PROFITS<br />
RETURNED<br />
TO MEMBERS<br />
WEBSITE<br />
MANAGEMENT<br />
CENTRAL<br />
BILLING<br />
CUSTOM<br />
CATALOGUES<br />
DIGITAL<br />
MARKETING<br />
& DESIGN<br />
Supporting<br />
Independent Jewellers<br />
for over 40<br />
successful years<br />
MEMBER<br />
OWNED<br />
JOIN US<br />
If you are interested in exploring Showcase<br />
Jewellers and how we can help grow your<br />
business, contact us today:<br />
enquiries@jimaco.com<br />
(02) 8566 1800<br />
www.showcasejewellers.com.au<br />
NO<br />
JOINING<br />
FEES<br />
SHOWCASE<br />
JEWELLERS
News<br />
Celebrity wedding diamonds<br />
The celebrity wedding of Brooklyn Beckham and Nicola<br />
Peltz in Florida in March was an extravagant glittering<br />
affair, with millions of dollars worth of jewellery on<br />
display. The bride wore enormous solitaire round<br />
brilliant cut diamond earrings for the ceremony, with<br />
experts estimating the diamonds were around the<br />
7-carat mark, and valued between $250,000 and $1<br />
million. The groom accessorised his suit with a lapel<br />
chain featuring bezel set emerald-cut diamonds, a gift<br />
from his in-laws.<br />
Mother of the groom, Victoria Beckham, combined opulence with sentiment,<br />
wearing an intricate yellow gold necklace with a magnificent 21.5-carat pearshaped<br />
diamond mounted in platinum. The diamond was a gift from Victoria’s<br />
husband David on the day of Brooklyn’s christening, while the necklace was<br />
French 18-carat yellow handmade filigree link guard chain with a wild bee motif<br />
and a figa talisman to bring good luck.<br />
Mother of the bride Claudia Peltz wore a<br />
spectacular diamond necklace with an enormous<br />
pear-shaped pendant. Some jewellery sleuths have<br />
speculated is the 94.78 carat pear-shaped D-color<br />
Star of the East diamond, once owned by King<br />
Farouk. Even the wedding guests sparkled, with<br />
Jonathan Cheban wearing a diamond-encrusted<br />
bow tie with his black tuxedo.<br />
Oscars Bling<br />
Despite all the distractions, the <strong>2022</strong> Academy Award winners sparkled as they<br />
collected their awards.<br />
Best Actress winner Jessica Chastain accessorised her statuette with a Gucci<br />
lionhead necklace featuring opal, tanzanites and diamonds set in 18kt white<br />
gold, and a Gucci green garnet and diamond ring, also in 18kt white gold.<br />
Nominee Nicole Kidman wore a yellow gold and platinum Harry Winston Eagle<br />
necklace featuring a yellow diamond pendant, paired with matching earrings<br />
and bracelets.<br />
Olivia Colman wore droplet Chopard earrings and a diamond<br />
ring. Penelope Cruz wore a Chanel necklace designed to look<br />
like the brand’s signature tweed.<br />
Will green be the new pink?<br />
Twenty years ago, Ben Affleck gave Jennifer Lopez<br />
a pink diamond engagement ring, sparking a trend<br />
for pink diamonds that hasn’t faded. Can they<br />
work the same magic with green diamonds?<br />
After splitting up, marrying others and (in<br />
Jennifer’s case) collecting a wide array of<br />
spectacular engagement rings over the last<br />
two decades, the couple are now reunited and<br />
engaged again. This time, Ben proposed with<br />
a platinum ring featuring an 8.5 carat cushion<br />
modified brilliant-cut natural green diamond<br />
centre stone, flanked by a pair of trapezoid stepcut<br />
diamonds.<br />
“Green has always been my lucky colour and now,<br />
for sure, it always will be,” said Jennifer when she<br />
announced the engagement on Instagram.<br />
However, as green<br />
diamonds are very rare,<br />
they are unlikely to<br />
corner the gemstone<br />
market as much as the<br />
original pink diamond<br />
engagement ring.<br />
Best Supporting Actress Ariana<br />
DeBose wore a delicate De Beers<br />
necklace of diamonds set in<br />
platinum, with matching earrings,<br />
bracelet and rings.<br />
8<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
LET'S TALK<br />
WEBINAR SERIES<br />
W o m e n i n I n d u s t r y<br />
7pm AEST<br />
Tuesday | June<br />
7<br />
Throughout the Australian jewellery industry, in every sector of the trade, we have empowered<br />
women, of all ages, paving the way for the next generation. From highly skilled jewellery artisans,<br />
designers, Board members, event organisers, wholesale and retail business owners, gemstone<br />
experts, and of course female peers, that play an integral part in our business management,<br />
growth and development. Hear from and be inspired by some of the industry’s leading ladies.<br />
Welcome all members of the trade, male and female, to join us.<br />
REGISTER TODAY | JAA.COM.AU/TALK<br />
Proudly brought to you by the Jewellers Association of Australia
News<br />
Anisa Costa leaving Tiffany & Co.<br />
after 19 years<br />
Anisa Costa, Tiffany & Co.’s chief sustainability<br />
office and president of the Tiffany Foundation, the<br />
company’s charity arm, is leaving the brand after 19<br />
years.<br />
As from April, Costa will become chief sustainability<br />
office for electric car company Rivian Automotive.<br />
Million dollar chess set<br />
A unique jewel-studded chess set is back on the market with a US$1 million price<br />
tag.<br />
Designed in 1971 by Jim Grahl of J. Grahl Design, the chess pieces are made of<br />
14k yellow and white gold and designed to accurately represent the costumes and<br />
accessories of European royalty in the 13th and 14th century.<br />
“You have a Nordic king, the Spanish queen and a French knight that turned into a<br />
version of Henry VIII,” said Grahl.<br />
The two rooks are modelled<br />
after the medieval Falkenstein<br />
Castle in Austria, and the pawns<br />
are modelled on Welsh footmen.<br />
The kings and queens have<br />
diamond crowns – the white<br />
gold monarchs have sapphires<br />
in their breast plates, while the<br />
yellow gold team have rubies.<br />
“I was trying to compress that particular history of costuming and trying to be<br />
era-correct,” said Grahl.<br />
The chess set is available to purchase through Windsor Fine Jewelers in Augusta,<br />
Georgia. General manager Michael Zibman said most customers prefer to take<br />
photographs of the intricate chess set, but there have been no serious offers. If<br />
buyers are concerned that the chess set might be too delicate for proper games,<br />
designer Jim Grahl says that it is suited for practical purposes.<br />
“The pieces are designed to be held and played with,” says Grahl. “They are very<br />
tactile. They are not fragile.” However, he does advise against “tipping the king<br />
over in an aggressive manner” which is probably why he’s never crafted a jewelled<br />
Monopoly set.<br />
Costa joined Tiffany in 2003<br />
in its Tiffany Foundation<br />
before taking on the role<br />
of vice president in the<br />
brand’s corporate social<br />
responsibility arm in 2009. By<br />
2013, she was named chair<br />
of the foundation, and in<br />
2015, became Tiffany’s chief<br />
sustainability officer.<br />
Before buying the Tiffany brand, company owners<br />
LVMH had hailed Tiffany’s sourcing and commitment<br />
to sustainability.<br />
“Sourcing and sustainability are quite important, and<br />
that is something we could learn from them,” said<br />
LVMH chief financial officer Jean-Jacques Guiony.<br />
“They are leaders in that important area.”<br />
It is unclear if Tiffany intends to replace Costa.<br />
Rebecca Foerster to head Hearts on Fire<br />
Just a month after leaving<br />
her position as the US head<br />
of Russian diamond miner<br />
Alrosa, Rebecca Roerster has<br />
been appointed as president<br />
of Hearts on Fire for North<br />
America. Alrosa’s America<br />
office has now closed as it is not permitted to operate in<br />
America under the current US sanctions.<br />
Hearts on Fire is owned by Chinese jewellery giant, Chow<br />
Tai Fook, who bought the brand in 2014.<br />
Foester has previously worked for Rio Tinto Diamonds,<br />
Frederick Goldman, and Leo Schachter Diamonds.<br />
10<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Key<br />
Points<br />
Trade show season is upon us.<br />
With in-person trade shows<br />
resuming, its time to refresh<br />
your memory on trade show<br />
security.<br />
With spectacular booths, award winning<br />
pieces and the chance to catch up with old<br />
and new customers, trade shows are one<br />
of the most exciting events within the<br />
jewellery industry.<br />
It is important to remember who else might<br />
be attending these shows. Criminals pencil<br />
these events into their calendars as well. Of<br />
course, this is no surprise. With a large<br />
number of high value items under one roof,<br />
criminals view this as an opportunity to<br />
potentially carry out a record breaking<br />
theft.<br />
With jewellery trade shows in Australia<br />
operating over many years, event<br />
organizers are well prepared against<br />
potential security threats to their venue. It<br />
is most obvious to want to protect your<br />
stock from theft during the trade show, but<br />
have you thought about your risk to and<br />
from the event?<br />
This is why it is important to review what<br />
cover for travel you have under your<br />
Jewellers Block policy. Review your limits,<br />
are they sufficient?<br />
Whilst you're reviewing your policy, it is also<br />
a good idea to check your sendings limits. If<br />
you are shipping stock to customers after<br />
the show, make sure your policy covers this<br />
adequately and includes overseas if<br />
applicable.<br />
Trade and<br />
Exhibition<br />
Insurance<br />
Make sure that your<br />
Jewellers Block policy<br />
provides cover for<br />
trade shows and<br />
exhibitions, including<br />
cover for your display<br />
cabinets in the event<br />
they are damaged at<br />
the show.<br />
Travel<br />
Travelling with stock<br />
to and from events?<br />
Make sure that you<br />
have insured for<br />
'travel' under your<br />
Jewellers Block policy.<br />
Sendings<br />
Shipping stock to<br />
customers after a<br />
show? Review your<br />
sendings limits under<br />
your Jewellers Block<br />
policy.<br />
Public and<br />
Products<br />
Liability<br />
Event organizers<br />
usually request that<br />
exhibiters hold Public<br />
and Products Liability<br />
in order to showcase<br />
their stock at an event.<br />
Public and Products<br />
Liability insurance can<br />
be purchased through<br />
JAA Insurance<br />
Services as part of a<br />
Jewellers Block<br />
insurance policy.<br />
Tips for before, during and after tradeshows:<br />
Talk to your broker and review your<br />
insurance coverage.<br />
Take into account the reputation and<br />
security of your hotel if staying overnight.<br />
Be discreet when discussing the<br />
reasons of your trip with other travelers<br />
and hotel staff.<br />
Make sure you have mapped out where<br />
you need to go.<br />
Never leave the booth unattended.<br />
Keep the keys on your persons.<br />
Try to deal with one person at a time.<br />
Take your badge or sticker off as soon<br />
as you leave the show to reduce your<br />
risk of being identified by criminals.<br />
Ensure you have transportation<br />
organized.<br />
With large numbers of high<br />
value items under one roof,<br />
criminals view this as an<br />
opportunity to potentially<br />
carry out a record breaking<br />
theft.<br />
Insurance<br />
With over 20 years experience providing<br />
Jewellers Block Insurance, JAA Insurance<br />
Services is well equipped to assist you with<br />
your insurance needs.<br />
Get in touch today for a quote<br />
jaais.com.au or 02 8350 9999
PALLOYS POINTS<br />
April Towerton<br />
Fabricated Metal and Finished Goods Fulfilment Manager<br />
Palloys<br />
FINDING SUCCESS<br />
This month, Palloys’ Fabricated Metal and Finished Goods Fulfilment Manager, April<br />
Towerton, gave us some insight into Palloys’ extensive catalogue of findings, as well<br />
as her perspective on what is trending right now.<br />
As a customer of Palloys for over 20<br />
years I was unaware of how many<br />
jewellers, globally, rely on Palloys as<br />
an essential partner to the success of their<br />
business.<br />
Working for Palloys, I can see why. Palloys<br />
is Australia’s longest standing and most<br />
respected brand for custom manufacturing,<br />
fabricated metals, and findings. We have our<br />
own refinery that allows for the production<br />
of high-quality metals. We use state of the<br />
art technology and have rigorous testing<br />
standards in our labs to ensure that the quality<br />
remains at the forefront of our product range.<br />
We have grown to become an industry leader,<br />
front-running the jewellery market.<br />
Palloys is a vital asset as a one-stop shop for<br />
jewellers, including castings, finished jewellery,<br />
semi-mounts, fabricated metals, and findings<br />
as well. At Palloys, we have you covered!<br />
Palloys carries the largest range of die-struck<br />
and machine cut findings in 9ct, 14ct and 18ct<br />
in yellow, white, and rose gold, along with<br />
sterling silver and rhodium-plated sterling<br />
silver findings, and a bespoke range of goldplated<br />
findings.<br />
We carry both finished and continuous silver<br />
chains and are currently exploring expanding<br />
the range, as the market has an influence on<br />
what our range looks like. Palloys now holds<br />
over 2200 different varieties of findings, and<br />
we are always in the market for new and<br />
innovative designs.<br />
I am sure all jewellers and designers have<br />
their favourites, mine include our large disc<br />
butterflies to stabilise heavy earrings. Our<br />
threaded posts and butterflies offer security<br />
and peace of mind for high-value pieces. I<br />
would not use anything else for my favourite<br />
and most valued diamond studs.<br />
I love the large variety of round beads that<br />
Palloys offers. A classic ball bracelet will<br />
never go out of style because it is timeless.<br />
However, if you add some diamond-cut beads,<br />
you can overhaul the look and shift it into<br />
a contemporary style. I love how they add<br />
interest to a strand of otherwise conservative<br />
pearls. Furthermore, it is great to mix up the<br />
sizes of beads and pearls for a modern twist<br />
on a classic.<br />
12<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
We have a wide variety of clasps available to<br />
finish off your bracelets and necklaces and my<br />
favourites are our magnetic clasps as they are<br />
reliable and easy to put on, with no fumbling.<br />
There is a current resurgence in the popularity<br />
of traditional silver charms. In our 218-piece<br />
collection, we cover the traditional through<br />
to the more obscure charms, thus catering<br />
to a variety of tastes, styles, and preferences.<br />
They are easily fixed to bracelets using our<br />
link-locks, which eliminates the need to solder,<br />
so the tedious task of polishing the whole<br />
bracelet saves you both money and time.<br />
We recently launched a range of finished<br />
diamond wedding bands and engagement<br />
rings that are in stock and ready to ship,<br />
known as our ReadyMade collection.<br />
ReadyMade serves as a pillar of what makes<br />
Palloys a reliable, essential asset to jewellers –<br />
the ability to receive high-quality engagement<br />
rings and wedding bands practically overnight<br />
liberates jewellers from the struggle of finding<br />
stock in a pinch.<br />
Palloys also carries 18ct yellow and white<br />
gold diamond wedding bands, ranging in sizes<br />
from I-Q set with GH/SI quality diamonds. Our<br />
diamond wedding bands are made with 100<br />
percent Australian gold and are available in<br />
channel set, bead set, pave set, and knifeedge<br />
designs.<br />
Our range of engagement ring mounts and<br />
semi-mounts encompass both traditional<br />
styles (classic solitaire or trilogy settings),<br />
through to the currently trending halo designs.<br />
Each style is available to suit 0.50ct or 1.00ct<br />
centres and comes in 18ct white gold, yellow<br />
gold, or two-tone varieties.<br />
If you are looking for a more personalised<br />
approach to your wedding bands, look no<br />
further than Palloys’ Livadi wedding ring<br />
range. Livadi accommodates individual design<br />
needs, offering unmatched customisation<br />
capabilities in a huge array of alloys. Livadi<br />
offers a display range fitted with high-quality<br />
gold and rhodium-plated brass sample rings<br />
providing maximum effect for minimum<br />
outlay.<br />
Moreover, Livadi offers an extensive range of<br />
visual merchandising options for jewellers,<br />
with sleek, high-end modular ring displays and<br />
sizing kits, ring boxes, retail bags, look books,<br />
and counter tablet PC digital displays.<br />
Palloys is always creating new content; we<br />
are currently working on innovative ways<br />
to showcase our vast selection of findings<br />
and the best way to use them. We aim to<br />
provide you with the best selection of quality<br />
products, and the knowledge to enable you to<br />
make the most of our extensive catalogue.<br />
We always look forward to supporting our<br />
valued clients, as well as welcoming new<br />
jewellers on board. With resources, such as<br />
video tutorials and information packs available<br />
on our website, any jeweller is welcomed into<br />
the world of findings with Palloys.<br />
Across all divisions, and especially in<br />
findings, Palloys is vital to the success of<br />
jewellers all over the world. Catering to the<br />
most traditional, trendy, and avant-garde<br />
tastes, Palloys’ range of findings is timeless,<br />
extensive, and available now at an unbeatable<br />
price.<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 13
ARE YOU GOOD AT<br />
PRIORITISING?<br />
It can be difficult to set priorities for your business when everything feels important.<br />
Knowing how to properly recognise problems, analyse opportunities and quantify<br />
solutions is critical to setting good strategies.<br />
Whenever I meet my colleagues<br />
in the trade, we inevitably have<br />
conversations about what’s new,<br />
what’s happening and what changes I am<br />
seeing. There is always a great conversation<br />
about the validity and/or the usefulness of any<br />
topic if they were to apply it to their business.<br />
The part that used to amaze me was when we<br />
would catch up six to twelve months later and<br />
I would ask how they progressed with the said<br />
topic. Often, none of the ideas or innovations<br />
that they were so excited about had been<br />
implemented.<br />
It became such a common occurrence. I asked<br />
myself why? I know that they thought it was a<br />
good idea; clearly some of these ideas could<br />
bring them additional — and quite substantial<br />
— revenue, yet they end up being just another<br />
idea.<br />
So as always, I self-reflect and ask myself, do I<br />
do the same thing? The answer is... yes.<br />
Often, I am introduced to great business<br />
opportunities, great ideas and more than<br />
anything, ideas that I truly want to implement.<br />
The problem that we all face is priorities.<br />
What should we be asking ourselves to<br />
determine whether or not an idea should be<br />
prioritised?<br />
1. Is there a problem that we are trying<br />
to solve? Or is it an idea to improve the<br />
business?<br />
2. How much time and effort do we need<br />
to dedicate to achieve the desired result?<br />
3. What does the result look like?<br />
4. Where does this opportunity / idea sit in<br />
terms of our priorities?<br />
Let’s dissect some of these issues and<br />
consider an example.<br />
Imagine I told you that there is a fantastic way<br />
for you to improve your Google reviews. So,<br />
we ask ourselves, is there a problem that we<br />
are trying to solve? Yes: we are not getting<br />
enough Google reviews. Will more Google<br />
reviews improve the business? Yes. Let’s<br />
jump to the third one - what does the result<br />
look like? Easy, we can quantify the actual<br />
numbers. Where does this opportunity / idea<br />
sit in terms of our priorities? Very high. More<br />
Google reviews means increased traffic to a<br />
business, resulting in increased sales.<br />
But now we get to the critical issue — how<br />
much time and effort do we need to dedicate<br />
to achieve the desired result? Let’s say that<br />
we currently have 30 Google reviews, and we<br />
want 100.<br />
Interestingly, the answer to this question is<br />
probably not a lot of time and effort. We will<br />
assume it means the implementation of a new<br />
piece of software. Therefore, it’s not so much<br />
a matter of time and effort but a change in<br />
behaviour. Something I have written about<br />
many times.<br />
Forty years ago, I attended a seminar by<br />
Tony Robbins, the number one motivational<br />
speaker in the world. One of Anthony’s key<br />
messages focuses on the difficulty in changing<br />
our behaviour. The comment he makes is “we<br />
will not change until the pain is so great that<br />
we are forced to change”. This is where we<br />
have to ask ourselves: how important is this<br />
idea/opportunity in our business and what will<br />
we do to prioritise it?<br />
14<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
DDCA NEWS<br />
Rami Baron<br />
President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia<br />
rami@ddca.org.au<br />
A lot of consultants will talk about the power<br />
of prioritising in terms of efficiency and<br />
improving your productivity. Others will say<br />
that when you prioritise, it removes stress and<br />
anxiety as you free up more time for yourself<br />
and above all else, focus you on what is most<br />
important to you.<br />
In my eyes, it’s really the latter.<br />
What is most important to you? You can<br />
make numerous lists and if you are a highly<br />
productive person, you will put timelines or<br />
delivery dates to keep you honest. However,<br />
when you hear of a new idea or opportunity<br />
that you think can truly help your business, I<br />
challenge you to ask yourself if you are giving<br />
it enough time to explore its merits. Are you<br />
drilling down to ask yourself what this is<br />
worth to your business? If it does have a high<br />
value then what are you prepared to change<br />
or forgo to make sure you bring this idea to<br />
your business and fully execute it? It could<br />
mean that you need to delay other tasks,<br />
such as re-designing your boxes or rebuilding<br />
your website. What is the priority? What will<br />
get you results allowing you to measure a<br />
return on your investment? Again, what is the<br />
priority?<br />
It’s amazing how many quotes exist about<br />
success and failure. Some of my favourites are<br />
“anyone who has never made a mistake has<br />
never tried anything new” and a Tony Robbins<br />
classic “if you do what you’ve always done,<br />
you’ll get what you’ve always gotten”.<br />
Everyone is busy but developing a skillset<br />
which enables you to analyse opportunities<br />
and developing a checklist that works for<br />
you and which helps you evaluate these<br />
opportunities will enable you to continually<br />
innovate and stay ahead of the curve. This, my<br />
friends, must be your priority.<br />
Make yourself a list of questions and ask<br />
yourself if you can delegate the task to<br />
someone else in the business to bring this idea<br />
to fruition. Ask the team what importance<br />
they place on this new idea or opportunity?<br />
Can you quantify what success looks like in<br />
actual numbers? There is no doubt in my mind<br />
that when I reflect on my colleagues who are<br />
ahead of the curve, it is because they are very<br />
good at prioritising. They accept that change is<br />
not always easy, but it’s what will differentiate<br />
them from the rest of the pack.<br />
Of course, it’s easy to stay in a comfort zone<br />
and just chat about good ideas. We need to<br />
try new things. Some will fail and that’s why<br />
prioritising what is important and defining<br />
what success looks like is so crucial.<br />
Trade well,,, Rami Baron.<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 15
PRESIDENT'S<br />
MESSAGE<br />
Karen Denaro<br />
Women in Industry<br />
On the back of this Mother’s Day season, the Jewellers Association of Australia proudly pays<br />
homage to ‘Women in Industry’, featured via our JAA Webinar, 7pm, Tuesday 7 June <strong>2022</strong>.<br />
The JAA extends an invitation to all jewellery<br />
industry trade members to join us in<br />
celebrating and honouring fierce female and<br />
fabulous women who have gone above simply<br />
contributing, but who have made it their life’s<br />
work in dedicating their passion, creativity and<br />
business nous to the growth of the Australian<br />
jewellery industry, and the global jewellery<br />
industry at large.<br />
Women have been fighting for equality since<br />
the dawn of time and our industry is certainly<br />
no exception. While I have quoted the old<br />
adage, “I love being a woman, albeit a woman<br />
living in a man’s world”, the tide is turning,<br />
if it hasn’t already turned. Our industry has<br />
evolved from when I first commenced my<br />
jewellery industry career, almost 33 years ago.<br />
Working my way through and upward,<br />
in what was then a male predominant<br />
industry, was indeed challenging, at times<br />
highly confronting, yet ultimately extremely<br />
rewarding on every level. I rose to the<br />
challenges, looking at each situation as an<br />
opportunity – an opportunity to grow, to make<br />
a difference, to learn, to be inspired and to<br />
give back, always with the hope of inspiring<br />
and empowering others, particularly other<br />
women in our industry.<br />
My thirst for knowledge is infinite – I continue<br />
to learn, grow and draw inspiration from<br />
amazing women, from all over the globe, each<br />
and every day. While my mother is my eternal<br />
champion, I also attribute my resilience to<br />
being raised in a male-dominated home, with<br />
a father and older brothers who encouraged<br />
me to believe I could achieve everything I<br />
chose to apply myself to and more. I am also<br />
grateful to have had the opportunity to work<br />
with both male and female jewellery industry<br />
icons who took a chance on me, believed in<br />
me and realised my potential – the influence<br />
and support that came from these figures and<br />
mentors is integral to the woman I am today.<br />
Throughout the Australian jewellery industry,<br />
in every arm and sector of the trade, we<br />
have empowered women, of all ages, paving<br />
the way for the next generation. From highly<br />
skilled jewellery artisans, master jewellers,<br />
jewellery designers, informed Association<br />
educators and Board members, event<br />
organisers, both wholesale and retail business<br />
owners, diamond and gemstone experts, and<br />
of course female peers, who play an integral<br />
part in our business management, growth and<br />
development, in all aspects of the jewellery<br />
trade.<br />
Observing our JAA 2021-<strong>2022</strong> Awards, the<br />
calibre of design work, thought and meaning<br />
behind each beautifully handcrafted, bespoke,<br />
and detailed piece of jewellery predominantly<br />
came from young, talented women – the next<br />
generation of Australian jewellery artisans<br />
and master jewellers. I eagerly anticipate<br />
our 2023 JAA Awards and cannot wait to see<br />
the inspiring creations these talented master<br />
jewellers and artisans produce.<br />
It is also imperative to note that our jewellery<br />
consumer is predominantly female with the<br />
latest statistics from the US revealing that<br />
women control more than $20 trillion in<br />
worldwide spending - $7 trillion in the US,<br />
alone. The study forecasts that women will<br />
control two-thirds of consumer wealth in<br />
the US over the next decade. More than 80<br />
percent percent of jewellery is purchased by<br />
women, either on their own, for themselves,<br />
for their female loved ones, for their<br />
colleagues, as corporate initiatives and/or in<br />
co-operation with their partner/s.<br />
Women understand the needs, wants and<br />
desires of other women. We understand<br />
our female clients, friends, and co-workers.<br />
With marked growth in strong female energy<br />
throughout our industry, the future, as I see it,<br />
is indisputably female.<br />
16<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
YOU ARE<br />
MY<br />
ROCK.<br />
Becoming a member of the Jewellers<br />
Association of Australia has a comprehensive<br />
range of benefits.<br />
We are here to help support, protect, guide<br />
and grow your business, whilst being a voice<br />
for the Australian <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry.<br />
The <strong>2022</strong> Member Prospectus details the<br />
benefits available to members and we<br />
welcome you to contact us with any questions<br />
or feedback you may have about the JAA.<br />
INSPIRING CONFIDENCE. SINCE 1931.<br />
view the<br />
MEMBER<br />
BENEFITS<br />
jaa.com.au/benefits
By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />
LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS –<br />
FINDING NEW WAYS TO SHINE<br />
The acceptance of lab-grown diamonds into the jewellery industry has been a long and<br />
slow process, but there is now very little doubt that their time has come. Cheaper but just<br />
as brilliant, jewellers are finding even more reasons to promote this created gemstone.<br />
Traditionally a very conservative industry,<br />
the jewellery industry has rarely needed<br />
to adapt to radical new products or<br />
innovations, so the concept of lab-grown<br />
diamonds as gemstones was not initially well<br />
received. For centuries, the mystique of the<br />
diamond was based on how it is formed under<br />
pressure far below the earth’s surface, and the<br />
way its brilliance can only be revealed through<br />
expert cutting and polishing. This mystique<br />
was perfectly summarised in the iconic De<br />
Beers slogan A Diamond is Forever. In contrast,<br />
lab-grown diamonds – initially created for<br />
industrial purposes – had the same physical<br />
properties as mined diamonds, but when<br />
the technique advanced enough to achieve a<br />
gemstone standard, they were not viewed as<br />
“real” diamonds.<br />
Grown Diamonds<br />
Yet lab-grown diamonds found their market<br />
niche when consumers began questioning<br />
the ethical impact of the mining industry.<br />
Now, as the technological process of creating<br />
diamonds becomes more sophisticated and<br />
efficient, the once-shunned late arrival is<br />
finding new ways to shine in the jewellery<br />
market.<br />
Sharing the market<br />
Craig Miller says that while there are still a<br />
handful of jewellers who will not engage with<br />
lab-grown diamonds, the jewellery industry as<br />
a whole has come to accept and incorporate<br />
this new consumer choice.<br />
“Yes, the resistance came from the trade,<br />
understandably, as there has not been<br />
a disruptor in<br />
our industry for<br />
decades,” said<br />
Craig. “This was<br />
coupled with the<br />
unknown and lack<br />
of education around<br />
lab-grown — the<br />
trade did not know<br />
much about this<br />
new consumer<br />
choice.<br />
“But with more<br />
education and<br />
Grown Diamonds<br />
facts in front of them and with growing<br />
consumer demand, the resistance to labgrown<br />
diamonds is a conversation most have<br />
forgotten.”<br />
As the public became concerned about the<br />
ethical costs of mined diamonds, lab-grown<br />
diamonds were seen as a “clean” alternative,<br />
with no tarnish of environmental damage or<br />
human rights violations. David from Grown<br />
Diamonds says that the growth of the labgrown<br />
market was more consumer-driven<br />
than industry-driven.<br />
JC Jewels<br />
18<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
“When we first started, many people in the<br />
industry showed a huge resistance to labgrown<br />
diamonds, some because they didn’t<br />
understand them and others because they are<br />
afraid of change,” David said.<br />
“However, as they increased in popularity<br />
amongst consumers, many jewellers have<br />
decided to offer lab-grown diamonds as<br />
an alternative for their customers. Both<br />
jewellers and people in general are more<br />
knowledgeable about lab-grown diamonds<br />
and they have become much more accepted<br />
now.<br />
“We originally had many customers telling us<br />
they would never stock lab-grown diamonds<br />
but now they have conceded to the demand<br />
of their clients, and accepted that lab-grown<br />
diamonds are here to stay. They are now some<br />
of our biggest clients.”<br />
With over 20 years in the diamond industry,<br />
Grown Diamonds has an extensive inventory<br />
of conflict-free IGI certified diamonds and<br />
uncertified diamonds for trade customers,<br />
priced between 70-80 percent cheaper<br />
than comparable mined diamonds. Their<br />
online diamond database provides close<br />
JC Jewels<br />
up photographs and videos of all stock, so<br />
customers can see exactly what they're<br />
buying.<br />
New and appealing selling points<br />
While the environmental message brought<br />
lab-grown diamonds into the market,<br />
increased technology has now introduced<br />
compelling new selling points. As mined<br />
diamonds are a limited natural resource, there<br />
is the possibility that eventually supplies will<br />
run out, as was seen with pink diamonds<br />
and the Argyle mine. This could indicate that<br />
mined diamonds will increase in value due to<br />
their rarity, but it also signals an increasing<br />
demand for lab-grown diamonds, due to their<br />
availability.<br />
As technological procedures become more<br />
efficient and<br />
streamlined,<br />
lab-grown<br />
diamonds<br />
are also<br />
becoming<br />
more<br />
economical<br />
to<br />
manufacture,<br />
and the<br />
quality is improving.<br />
Grown Diamonds<br />
Craig from says that the new technology has<br />
drawn new entrepreneurs into the industry,<br />
who are introducing fresh and innovative<br />
strategies to attract a new generation of<br />
consumers.<br />
“The next generation of customers are<br />
embracing a bigger, whiter and cleaner<br />
diamond at an affordable price,” said Craig.<br />
“Lab-grown diamonds not only hit all the<br />
consumer’s touch points, the advancements<br />
in creating lab-grown diamonds are levelling<br />
up the offering with sustainability, carbon<br />
neutrality, transparent traceability, ethical<br />
practices and of course the price and size<br />
advantage.<br />
“All these benefits make lab-grown diamonds<br />
a welcomed option for the next generation.”<br />
The growing accessibility of lab-grown<br />
diamonds has also created a wider range of<br />
options for consumers, in relation to cut, size<br />
and colour.<br />
David from Grown Diamonds says that as the<br />
rough diamonds created by CVD and HPHT are<br />
easy to access, the diamond cutters are able<br />
to customise shapes and sizes for their clients.<br />
JC Jewels<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 19
Grown Diamonds<br />
“The lab-grown diamond rough is less<br />
valuable than a mined diamond, giving<br />
diamond cutters more flexibility when filling<br />
special requests without having to charge a<br />
great deal more,” said David.<br />
“The price difference between colours is<br />
not as significant in lab-grown diamonds as<br />
opposed to naturals, so customers prefer to<br />
go with the higher colours.”<br />
The difference between CVD and<br />
HPHT<br />
There are two main methods of<br />
diamond production: CVD<br />
(chemical vapour deposition)<br />
and HPHT (high pressure/<br />
high temperature). Both methods produce<br />
diamonds that meet the certification<br />
requirements of gemmological institutes,<br />
matching mined diamonds in terms of<br />
crystallised pure carbon, a Mohs hardness<br />
scale 10, permanent colour and clarity, while<br />
on many scales surpassing mined diamonds in<br />
terms of sustainability and ethical production.<br />
These technologies can produce diamonds<br />
of any colour, clarity and size, although HPHT<br />
on average yields higher colours than CVD<br />
and CVD yields higher clarity on<br />
average.<br />
David says that while some<br />
sellers will promote one method<br />
of production over another, there<br />
is really no difference in quality<br />
between CVD and HPHT.<br />
“In general people don’t mind<br />
if it is grown via CVD or HPHT<br />
method,” David said.<br />
“At the end of the day<br />
diamonds grown via both<br />
methods have the same optical<br />
and strength properties. Some<br />
people prefer CVD over HPHT<br />
or vice versa, but this is due to<br />
misinformation created by some<br />
sellers that would like to push<br />
one over the other due to what<br />
they are purchasing from their<br />
supplier.”<br />
David said that the<br />
improvement in the growing<br />
methodsof both CVD and HPHT<br />
JC Jewels<br />
JC Jewels<br />
20<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Grown Diamonds<br />
Access Australia's largest lab-grown diamond inventory<br />
Over 75,000 Diamonds available online<br />
Over 2,000 diamonds on hand available for consignment in Australia<br />
Register now - Trade customers only<br />
GROWNDIAMONDS.COM.AU<br />
Optically, chemically & physically identical to<br />
earth mined diamonds<br />
75% - 85% cheaper than mined diamonds<br />
Get bigger & better quality diamond<br />
than earth mined diamonds<br />
A great alternative for clients with<br />
a smaller budget!<br />
Available online access of close up<br />
videos, photos, and lab certificates<br />
Eco-Positive & 100% mine-free<br />
Consignment available<br />
Free express shipping & 5% discount if you buy ONLINE<br />
Scan to visit our website<br />
GROWNDIAMONDS.COM.AU<br />
contact@growndiamonds.com.au<br />
1800 849 291<br />
Level 11, Suite 1102<br />
227 Collins St<br />
Melbourne VIC 3000
When you help clients understand the<br />
science behind growing diamonds<br />
above the ground and the different<br />
growing techniques involved, it all<br />
starts to make sense.<br />
has led to the increased production of<br />
diamonds with higher colour and clarities.<br />
“The downside of this is that you will struggle<br />
to find many stones in the lower qualities<br />
which may be within certain customers'<br />
budgets.”<br />
While JC Jewels stocks both CVD and HPHT<br />
diamonds, 90 percent of their customers<br />
choose from their range of certified CVD Type<br />
IIa diamonds.<br />
“Less than 2 percent of mined diamonds are<br />
Type IIa, so these are rare stones that fetch<br />
premiums when and if they are available. The<br />
diamond’s transparency is exceptional and<br />
radiates additional beauty forever.”<br />
“When you lay down the<br />
education and help clients<br />
understand the science<br />
behind growing diamonds<br />
above the ground and<br />
the different growing<br />
techniques involved, it all<br />
starts to make sense.<br />
“Ultimately a diamond<br />
is carbon, whether<br />
from below or above the<br />
ground – a mined diamond<br />
and a scientifically lab-grown<br />
diamond are both authentic diamonds, just<br />
with different origins.”<br />
JC Jewels has the largest range of certified<br />
CVD Type IIa diamonds available in Australia<br />
and New Zealand.<br />
The power of education<br />
As with any relatively new product competing<br />
against an old favourite, buyers and sellers<br />
need to understand what makes this product<br />
different and which desired qualities remain<br />
the same.<br />
JC Jewels<br />
Craig from JC Jewels says that the resistance to<br />
lab-grown diamonds usually derived from lack<br />
of understand.<br />
“As JC Jewels introduces jewellers to labgrown<br />
diamonds, we engage with education<br />
and discussion, we probe into their pain points<br />
and address each one,” Craig said.<br />
22<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
A GLOBAL PEARL NARRATIVE:<br />
The case for generic promotion<br />
Devino<br />
With pearls ticking all boxes as a sustainable jewellery option, a CIBJO<br />
webinar examines the viability of a generic marketing approach.<br />
When it comes to marketing<br />
jewellery to socially and<br />
environmentally aware Millennial<br />
and Gen Z consumers, pearls should be a slam<br />
dunk. Cultivated rather than mined, requiring<br />
pristinely maintained marine biospheres,<br />
and often supporting communities at risk<br />
of extreme climactic events, these muchloved<br />
biogenic treasures also have the rare<br />
distinction of being among the few truly<br />
sustainable gem varieties in existence.<br />
Where the pearl industry lags, however,<br />
is in its capacity to mount a coordinated<br />
marketing approach, highlighting those key<br />
qualities which should attract younger and<br />
sustainability-conscious consumers. This is<br />
in stark contrast to the diamond, gold and<br />
Ikecho<br />
coloured gemstone sectors, all of which are<br />
served by international associations and, in<br />
the instance of diamonds and gold, by bodies<br />
dedicated to category marketing.<br />
While the benefits of generic marketing<br />
would seem patently obvious for the pearl<br />
sector, the task of establishing a structure<br />
that could manage such an undertaking is<br />
fraught with difficulty, and its operation would<br />
be restrictively expensive. But there are<br />
solutions that, while falling short of what is<br />
being done in the gold and diamond sectors,<br />
could nonetheless coordinate the messaging<br />
of pearl companies around the word, while<br />
at the same time enabling each of them to<br />
strengthen their own brand identities.<br />
CIBJO's <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Voices webinar on<br />
April 28, <strong>2022</strong>, focused on the potential of<br />
developing a collective marketing strategy for<br />
pearls, with the cooperation of independent<br />
companies around the world. It is entitled “A<br />
global pearl narrative: The case for generic<br />
promotion.”<br />
The webinar panel included Christine Salter,<br />
creative director of Paspaley Pearl Company;<br />
Marion Branellec de Guzman, chief marketing<br />
Paspaley<br />
officer of Jewelmer; Shari Turpin, owner of<br />
the Pearls by Shari brand; and David Norman,<br />
owner of Aquarian Pearls.<br />
The webinar was sponsored by Paspaley<br />
Pearling Company, which is also the Pearl<br />
Sponsor of CIBJO’s <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Voices<br />
third season of webinars.<br />
The forum was recorded and is available to<br />
listen to on the CIBJO webpage at<br />
www.CIBJO.org/webinars.<br />
24<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Proud to be the global pioneer of the<br />
Green Bullion<br />
concept<br />
Ethical sourcing has become increasingly important for both the consumer and<br />
associated industries concerned with responsible supply chain management.<br />
For this reason, Oakley Mint is proud to provide its Green Bullion® product alternative,<br />
with precious metals refined exclusively from recycled materials including distressed<br />
jewellery products, dental gold and technology such as e-waste.<br />
Our capability and product quality are quantified by our<br />
NATA accreditation and an attention to detail that ensures<br />
that our customers receive the highest quality and<br />
purity bullion guaranteed.<br />
Visit www.greenbullion.com or contact us at info@greenbullion.com to learn<br />
more about our products and our passion for environmental sustainability.<br />
“Environmentally Friendly Precious Metals”
Discernable by their unique hallmark and serial<br />
number sequencing, every Green Bullion® product<br />
is accompanied by a certificate, guaranteeing the<br />
recycled origins of its content and its purity.<br />
www.greenbullion.com<br />
A division of the CPG Group of companies
By Stefan Juengling<br />
TRAINING TOMORROW’S<br />
JEWELLERS AND GEMMOLOGISTS<br />
What does the future of Australia’s jewellers and gemmologists look like? <strong>Jewellery</strong> is an<br />
industry with an alarming disproportionate representation in comparison to other major<br />
trades, yet jewellery will always remain a highly sought-after item in the retail scene. Here<br />
we spoke to four experts in jewellery and gemmology to find out the current state and<br />
outlook for our current apprentices and future jewellers/gemmologists.<br />
So much work, so few tradespeople<br />
While there will always be fiancés needing<br />
engagement rings, mothers needing doting<br />
with something shiny and sentimental on<br />
Mother’s Day, or pawnbrokers and investors<br />
needing stones graded and valued, it seems<br />
the number of tradespeople required to<br />
perform the specialised craft of jewellery<br />
manufacture and precious stone grading will<br />
always be inadequate to meet the demand.<br />
At least that’s the consensus among our<br />
contributors.<br />
Founder and<br />
Master Jeweller<br />
at <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
Training<br />
Solutions Peter<br />
Keep (who<br />
also regularly<br />
produces<br />
editorial content<br />
for the magazine) said there is certainly a<br />
shortage of qualified competent jewellers.<br />
Curtis Australia<br />
“Industry dictates the number of apprentices<br />
needed and most bench jewellers will tell you<br />
that currently they are snowed under with<br />
bench work,” he said.<br />
“Although there’s no shortage of potential<br />
apprentices, there is a shortage of suitable<br />
positions for apprentices.”<br />
He said that the demand is there, and<br />
apprentice numbers have steadily been on the<br />
rise over the past three years, but employers<br />
are still reluctant to take<br />
on apprentices because<br />
they have a combination<br />
of no time available to<br />
train, not enough support,<br />
and/or no confidence in<br />
the training provider.<br />
“My <strong>Jewellery</strong> Training<br />
Solutions online training<br />
service offers another<br />
pathway to train to be a<br />
jeweller.”<br />
As for the gemmologists,<br />
federal president of the Gemmological<br />
Association of Australia Katrina Marchioni,<br />
expressed the skills shortage is just as dire in<br />
gemmology as it is in jewellery manufacture.<br />
“Retail jewellers would benefit greatly from<br />
having a gemmologist in every store, for<br />
testing clients’ gemstones as well as stock<br />
items to check for lab-made or treated<br />
gems; it’s a small investment to make that<br />
can potentially save a business thousands of<br />
dollars down the track,” she said.<br />
Katrina also said that “as an industry the trust<br />
of the consumer is so important and having<br />
a qualified gemmologist on staff does go a<br />
long way to building that trust and confidence<br />
between our industry and the consumer”.<br />
She also noted that “with the GAA gemology<br />
diploma and the post-nominal FGAA (Fellow<br />
of the Gemmological Association of Australia)<br />
being well recognised for its high academic<br />
standard worldwide, we are a wonderful,<br />
local resource for those looking to become an<br />
industry professional”.<br />
From the industry network perspective,<br />
managing director of <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry<br />
Network Laura Moore concurred that there<br />
are certainly not enough jewellery students or<br />
apprentices in the market or approaching the<br />
market at the moment, nor have there been<br />
for some time.<br />
“The jewellery<br />
industry has<br />
seen a skills<br />
shortage for<br />
many years,<br />
especially<br />
in certain<br />
disciplines of skill sets, but with the strong<br />
growth of handmade jewellery during the<br />
COVID period, this has been exacerbated,” she<br />
said.<br />
JTS<br />
JIN<br />
28<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
The state of industry vocational<br />
education<br />
As for future jewellery and gemmology talent<br />
coming in, feedback was mixed regarding<br />
student commencement and attrition rates<br />
at TAFE and other government accredited<br />
vocational education institutions. Katrina said<br />
that the numbers of gemmology students at<br />
the GAA haven’t changed much over the past<br />
years however, numbers did drop with COVID.<br />
Practical classes are very difficult to do on line<br />
successfully, she added. She said there is a<br />
small dropout rate, but students are told how<br />
much time they need to put aside each week<br />
and informed that this time is a commitment.<br />
“It is an extensive course and recognised<br />
as one of the world’s leading gemmological<br />
courses,” she said.<br />
Laura said the state of the industry courses<br />
which are state/federal government-run seem<br />
to fluctuate, especially in certain states.<br />
“When student intake is low, it becomes<br />
unfeasible for some states to run jewellery<br />
manufacturing courses,” she said.<br />
GAA<br />
Peter was a jewellery lecturer at the Central<br />
Institute of Technology in WA from 2007<br />
to 2019, and he described how apprentice<br />
numbers fell from 42 apprentices when he<br />
started, to just 6 when he concluded. Plus he<br />
saw a similar precipitous drop in year-overyear<br />
apprentice numbers was also occurring in<br />
the regions, and in many other trades.<br />
“It may just be<br />
timing, but I<br />
think that the<br />
COVID crisis had<br />
a part to play in<br />
re-energising the<br />
bespoke side of<br />
the industry, and<br />
combined with the<br />
state and federal<br />
governments’ new<br />
initiatives that help<br />
to alleviate the<br />
financial pressure<br />
of employing an apprentice, the numbers in<br />
WA have risen to around 20,” he said.<br />
GAA<br />
“When it comes to apprentice attrition, there<br />
is general understanding that an apprentice<br />
will cost you money in year one, break even in<br />
year two and begin to return the investment<br />
by year three.<br />
“In my time I found that between five percent<br />
to ten percent didn’t get to year two.”<br />
GAA<br />
Offering an alternative from traditional<br />
courses, Peter’s JTS educational platform<br />
offers world-renowned training and learning<br />
where a budding jeweller can achieve their<br />
qualifications, the professional jeweller can<br />
hone their skills and the hobbyist can become<br />
competent.<br />
“At present I have over 500 students<br />
worldwide who are working through the<br />
training program.”<br />
Trevor Brown is Bespoke Product Liaison<br />
from Curtis Australia, and he said that the<br />
traditional apprenticeship route in which<br />
apprentice jewellers are employed and<br />
released for trade school blocks is a valuable<br />
one, but there probably needs to be more<br />
consultation about modules and their content.<br />
“Also possibly greater feedback from course<br />
tutors on how the apprentice is progressing,<br />
and on what aspects of training need to be<br />
focused on while in the workplace,” he said.<br />
Current support on offer for<br />
apprentices and their employers<br />
Whilst jewellery and gemmology are often<br />
neglected in terms of government assistance<br />
compared to their other trade counterparts,<br />
Peter said that thanks to very generous state<br />
and federal government incentives, there’s<br />
never been a better time to employ an<br />
apprentice.<br />
Curtis Australia<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 29
“At time of writing, WA<br />
business owners<br />
that employ an<br />
apprentice can<br />
have half of their<br />
first-year apprentice<br />
salary paid for under<br />
the BAC (Boosting<br />
Apprenticeship<br />
Commencements)<br />
scheme,” he said.<br />
“There are also other cash<br />
incentives offered by the<br />
federal Government.”<br />
He said that industry support is<br />
more difficult as it is a small industry with<br />
limited resources compared to trades such as<br />
automotive and building which are supported<br />
by huge corporations that have a vested<br />
interest.<br />
“Our industry<br />
doesn’t have huge<br />
corporations with<br />
buckets of money...<br />
but maybe there’s<br />
scope for some<br />
kind of collective<br />
support.”<br />
Curtis Australia<br />
Curtis Australia<br />
Director of Curtis Australia, Heather Curtis<br />
agreed that the BAC and CAC (Completing<br />
Apprenticeships Commencements) subsidies<br />
from the federal government have helped,<br />
although they come with a lot of paperwork.<br />
From Laura’s perspective, there have been<br />
some incentives for businesses to take on<br />
apprentices, but not enough to bridge the<br />
gap between the investment needed for the<br />
employer and the student.<br />
“What is required, is for the industry to<br />
have solid statistics and to show its national<br />
contribution to the economy,” she said.<br />
“The government could do a lot to ensure<br />
that Australia’s manufacturing sector is strong,<br />
but the concern is that for all industries<br />
that manufacture products here,<br />
the level of support needed hasn’t<br />
been seen.”<br />
Katrina said that the GAA has<br />
scholarships and prizes on offer<br />
for the best and most promising<br />
gemmology students in a variety of<br />
categories. The GAA is a non-profit<br />
organsiation and recognised as a charity<br />
and thus GST is not charged on the courses.<br />
Encouraging new apprentices and<br />
keeping them in the trade<br />
Katrina said that to encourage more<br />
prospective students to take up gemmology,<br />
word of mouth is the GAA’s best<br />
advertisement.<br />
“Also, just promote the people in the industry<br />
to be the best we can be and enjoy the wealth<br />
of knowledge, inspiration and enjoyment<br />
higher education can offer… knowledge is a<br />
powerful thing,” she said.<br />
As Peter noted earlier, he doesn’t believe<br />
there’s a shortage of potential apprentices,<br />
but there is difficulty for these potential<br />
apprentices to find a job.<br />
“In an ideal world,<br />
there would be<br />
a dedicated,<br />
fully-funded<br />
national jewellery<br />
training program<br />
where students<br />
can enrol into a<br />
pre-apprentice<br />
course where they<br />
can try the trade<br />
and assess if that’s<br />
a career path that<br />
they really want<br />
and to see if they<br />
have the potential<br />
to become a<br />
jeweller,” he said.<br />
He said this model<br />
would mean<br />
the first year of<br />
training would be<br />
completed, and<br />
employers could<br />
then cherry-pick<br />
from the best.<br />
During his time<br />
at TAFE, this was<br />
something he<br />
pushed for, and<br />
with industry<br />
support, managed<br />
to get a fully<br />
funded pre-apprenticeship course up and<br />
running which proved quite successful.<br />
“However, it was cancelled due to its status as<br />
low priority, and so the funding was cut.”<br />
Peter also served on the JAA board for several<br />
years during which time he lobbied the<br />
government to have the trade included on the<br />
skills needs list.<br />
“Being included on the skills needs list may<br />
have helped to keep the pre-apprentice<br />
course going.”<br />
JTS<br />
JIN<br />
30<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
JIN<br />
The future for jewellery and gemmology<br />
education and training<br />
When probed on the outlook for jewellery education and<br />
training, Peter believed the signs were looking very positive for<br />
the industry, as he’s seen a recent surge in the creative side of<br />
the industry, access to industry-relevant training for dedicated<br />
students to take their craft as far as they want to, and a retail<br />
front no longer being necessary for selling jewellery.<br />
“With the power of social<br />
media and online resources,<br />
a lot of students have turned<br />
their hobby into a thriving<br />
business and operate successful<br />
virtual shops selling bespoke<br />
jewellery,” he said.<br />
GAA<br />
“So yes, I am very positive<br />
about the future, especially for<br />
unique handmade jewellery.”<br />
Laura believes that with some proper planning, hard work and<br />
commitment, the future is very bright.<br />
“There is a strong future for the manufacturing sector here<br />
especially as digital enables Australian jewellers to sell overseas,”<br />
she said.<br />
“However, in order for us to maintain this success and the quality<br />
required for Australian made pieces, then the industry must act<br />
quickly to build on the next generations of jewellers.”<br />
For further information:<br />
OSJAG PTY LTD PO Box 4420 North Rocks NSW 2151<br />
+612 9630 6619 admin@osjag.com www.osjag.com
PANDORA CHARM IN<br />
SUPPORT OF UNICEF<br />
The super brand introduces a glow-in-the-dark dangle charm to<br />
celebrate the potential of every young person worldwide.<br />
Pandora has released a limited edition<br />
lightbulb dangle charm, a continuation<br />
of its Charms for Change initiative in<br />
support of UNICEF.<br />
The glow-in-the-dark charm has been<br />
designed to represent a brighter future and to<br />
celebrate the potential of every young person<br />
worldwide, with 15€ from each charm sold<br />
donated to UNICEF.<br />
The Pandora for UNICEF charm is made with<br />
blue glow-in-the-dark glass, reflecting light all<br />
day and night, and symbolising that every child<br />
can let their potential shine.<br />
“We all have a role to play in empowering<br />
the young minds of the next generation,”<br />
said Marissa Saretsky, director of corporate<br />
sustainability. “Proceeds from this charm<br />
will help UNICEF provide young people<br />
and children all around the world with<br />
opportunities to learn and shine bright.”<br />
Pandora is supporting UNICEF’s work across<br />
the world and through the Charms for Change<br />
and other initiatives, Pandora and its fans have<br />
so far donated $6.2 million for UNICEF and<br />
their work, which has contributed to UNICEF<br />
reaching 17 million girls and boys to date.<br />
With support from Pandora, UNICEF has,<br />
for example, trained tutors and educators in<br />
Guatemala in communication strategies and<br />
using technology to overcome educational<br />
barriers further brought on by confinement<br />
during the pandemic. In China, Pandora’s<br />
funding went to support UNICEF’s project to<br />
train school PE teachers, who then helped<br />
over 336,000 students in 500 rural schools<br />
to better enjoy and develop through sports.<br />
Another 120,000 students and 6,000 teachers<br />
have benefitted from UNICEF’s Social and<br />
Emotional Learning resources and support in<br />
China.<br />
And in Nepal, Pandora is supporting UNICEF’s<br />
initiatives to help vulnerable children and<br />
adolescents develop skills and create change<br />
not only in their own lives, but also in their<br />
communities.<br />
Approximately AUD $21 from every purchase<br />
of the lightbulb dangle charm is donated to<br />
UNICEF’s programmes around the world,<br />
allowing Pandora fans to show their support<br />
for UNICEF and its core work in ensuring every<br />
child not only survives, but also thrives.<br />
The Charms for Change glow-in-the-dark<br />
Lightbulb Double Dangle<br />
Charm is available worldwide, online and in<br />
selected stores, from April 7th – July 7th <strong>2022</strong>.<br />
32<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Time to buy Australian-made<br />
Ph: (03) 9650 5955 Fax: (03) 6950 5977<br />
Email: sales@millenniumchain.com.au<br />
Web: www.millenniumchain.com.au<br />
6th Floor, 313 Lt. Collins St.<br />
Melbourne 3000 Victoria<br />
Millennium Chain<br />
Finished Top 5 in the category of<br />
Best Selling Gold <strong>Jewellery</strong> Suppliers in<br />
Australia and NZ, as voted by retailers.<br />
millennium_chain
TIFFANY’S APRIL FOOL’S PRANK<br />
WAS ACTUALLY A LITTLE BIT REAL<br />
“We’re launching our own cryptocurrency called TiffCoin—with exclusive product<br />
launches, NFT releases and invite-only events for top TiffCoin holders!” stated a post<br />
on Twitter. “Get some gold in your wallet with #TiffCoin.”<br />
Like last year’s announcement that the<br />
brand was dropping the duck egg blue and<br />
switching to Big Bird yellow, Tiffany & Co.’s<br />
cryptocurrency was just an April Fool’s joke. Or<br />
was it?<br />
Links on the day revealed that the<br />
cryptocurrency aspect was a prank, but it turns<br />
out the coins actually do exist in real life. As<br />
the company announced on April 2, on socials<br />
and on its own webpage, 499 “Tiffcoins” had<br />
been minted in 18k gold and were available<br />
to buy online for the following 24 hours —<br />
provided you had USD $9,999 for the giggle.<br />
Tiffcoin read “TiffCoins cannot be spent as<br />
actual currency — crypto or otherwise — but<br />
why would you want to?”<br />
With a practical joke this elaborate it’s hard to<br />
tell exactly who the joke is on.<br />
But it’s not the first time Tiffany & Co. have<br />
minted a currency of their own. The 1970s<br />
saw the brand mint and sell “Tiffany Money”<br />
as tokens to be redeemed instore. Earlier this<br />
The exclusive gold coins were individually<br />
engraved, numbered and<br />
packaged in custom<br />
Tiffany Blue dust<br />
bags. There<br />
was a limit<br />
of one per<br />
customer.<br />
The coins<br />
glow a<br />
34.8mm in<br />
diameter and are 2.8mm thick.<br />
According to the Tiffany’s website, TiffCoin<br />
holders receive access to “Tiffany happenings,<br />
bringing high glamour to the Metaverse.”<br />
Given the nature of the prank, this blatantly<br />
dubious assertion is most likely a tongue-incheek<br />
reference to many similarly unspecified<br />
utilities being offered by countless NFTs —<br />
particularly as the product disclaimer on the<br />
34<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Vintage Tiffany Money.<br />
A $100 Tiffany coin sold for USD$525 on<br />
Tradesy this year. Source: Tradesy<br />
year, a vintage magazine advertisement sold on Ebay detailing<br />
the Tiffany Money offer.<br />
“The bride can use them to supplement her registered choices<br />
of silver, crystal and china…” read the ad. “Give her one, ten or a<br />
hundred, Tiffany Money is the one gift a bride can’t get too many<br />
of. And besides, she won’t have so much to lug in to exchange<br />
after the wedding trip.”<br />
At the very least, the advertisement serves as evidence that<br />
Tiffany’s recent irreverent approach to marketing is not without<br />
historical precedent.<br />
In 1974, each sterling<br />
silver coin was priced<br />
at $25 redeemable<br />
for $25 worth of<br />
merchandise.<br />
With many<br />
other businesses<br />
already accepting<br />
cryptocurrency —<br />
from retail jewellers<br />
to high-end watch<br />
brands — it may<br />
only be a matter of<br />
time before Tiffany’s<br />
practical joke<br />
becomes a reality.<br />
1974 advertisement for Tiffany Money. Source: Ebay<br />
Luxury Pearl & Opal <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
Tel: (02) 9266 0636 | enquiries@ikecho.com.au<br />
www.ikecho.com.au
TIFFANY EXEC TURNED HIS<br />
CRYPTOPUNK NFT INTO JEWELLERY<br />
A one-off pendant to match a one-off Twitter profile pic.<br />
Back in January this year, Tiffany & Co.’s vice<br />
president, Alexandre Arnault, splashed out<br />
and bought a CryptoPunk for use in his Twitter<br />
profile. Just a few weeks ago, he revealed the<br />
singular piece of jewellery he had created to<br />
actualise his NFT.<br />
What does all that actually mean?<br />
An NFT is a non-fungible token protected<br />
by blockchain. An example is a piece of<br />
digital art. To ensure the art is one of a kind,<br />
singular and unique, its authenticity and<br />
proof of ownership is stored on the Ethereum<br />
blockchain.<br />
CryptoPunks are an example. They are a 24x24<br />
pixel image of a character’s head. Initially,<br />
10,000 were created, each different, all<br />
unique. Each of them could only be ‘owned’<br />
by one person on the Ethereum blockchain.<br />
Originally, they could be claimed for free<br />
by anyone with an Ethereum wallet, but all<br />
10,000 were quickly claimed. Now they have<br />
to be traded via the marketplace that is also<br />
embedded on the blockchain.<br />
Like anything that is scarce – no matter what it<br />
might be – the price has gone up.<br />
The current cheapest punk available is 60 ETH,<br />
which translates to USD $177,199.<br />
Arnault bought Punk No.<br />
3167, a snappy little fellow<br />
with a knitted red cap, 3D<br />
glasses and an earring. He<br />
paid 160 ETH, or around<br />
USD $416,427.<br />
I’d like to stress one more time that he<br />
purchased pixels. A grid of 24 x 24 of them.<br />
Just to clarify.<br />
Clearly not content with the non tangible<br />
nature of his non fungible token, Arnault<br />
presumably instructed the jewellers under<br />
his command as Tiffany vice<br />
president to create him a<br />
more substantial copy of his<br />
avatar. The RL version has<br />
3-D glasses rendered with a<br />
baguette-cut sapphire and<br />
Mozambique ruby, and a<br />
yellow diamond takes the<br />
place of its earring. Both the<br />
Tiffany & Co. name and the<br />
NFT’s number are engraved<br />
on the reverse.<br />
The 29 year old’s father, Bernard Arnault,<br />
CEO of LVMH, has expressed concerns about<br />
luxury brands entering into the metaverse<br />
‘bubble’. “It can undoubtedly have a positive<br />
impact—if it is well done—on the activity of<br />
the brands, but it is not our objective to sell<br />
virtual sneakers at €10,” the tycoon told Vogue<br />
Business. “We are not interested in that.”<br />
But other brands have entered the virtual fray.<br />
Louis Vuitton launched “Louis the Game” last<br />
August in which players could collect NFTs in<br />
celebration of the brand’s 200th birthday. Dior<br />
has Ready Player Me, a platform that connects<br />
over 300 games and applications.<br />
36<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
According to legend and lore, the idea of a birthstone chart goes back to Biblical times and the<br />
Breastplate of Aaron, which was set with twelve gemstones. A writer in the first century postulated<br />
that these gems directly correlated with the twelve astrological signs of the Zodiac and that these<br />
stones were beneficial to the health of the wearer. While the perception of the 12-stone birthstone<br />
chart has changed over the centuries, it still implies “to each her stone.”<br />
By Cynthia Unninayar<br />
Pearls have fascinated<br />
humans since antiquity. These<br />
shimmering gems have evolved over the<br />
millennia from objects thought to possess<br />
magical powers to become a staple of<br />
modern jewellery.<br />
THE POWER OF PEARLS<br />
The Birthstone of June<br />
The first pearl necklace is considered to date back 2500 years to<br />
the Persian kings in Susa with the discovery of a three-strand<br />
necklace in their Winter Palace. Other adornments have<br />
been found in ancient India, Sri Lanka, China and elsewhere around<br />
the world. Following the conquests of Alexander the Great, large<br />
quantities of pearls flowed into Europe, where they adorned royalty<br />
and embellished sacred objects of the Church. In the 1500s, European<br />
royal families sought out the natural pearls that came from the New<br />
<strong>World</strong>, elevating them to the status of, if not higher than, the gold and<br />
emeralds coming from the newly discovered continents.<br />
Jumping ahead several centuries, the popularity of natural pearls<br />
reached its height, as did prices, with pearl jewellery accounting<br />
for a large portion of a jeweller’s sales. “Natural pearls were highly<br />
appreciated in the late 19th and early 20th centuries,” says Ioannis<br />
Alexandris, CEO of Gemolithos, a Germany-based firm specialising<br />
in antique jewellery. “They were used both as main elements in a<br />
piece or as accents. Beautiful examples of natural pearls are found in<br />
many Belle Epoque jewels from this period.” He goes on to add that<br />
“because of their rarity, prices continue to rise for natural pearls.”<br />
In 1916, a seismic shift occurred, dramatically changing the course<br />
of the five-millennia history of the pearl. The Japanese company<br />
Mikimoto began marketing round “cultured” pearls, created by a<br />
technique discovered by Kokichi Mikimoto in 1893. Although the<br />
natural pearl industry continued into the mid-20th century, the less<br />
expensive cultured pearls offered women of all economic groups the<br />
opportunity to own a pearl necklace or other pearl jewellery.<br />
From Japan, the culture of pearls rapidly spread around the world.<br />
The shimmering little gems began appearing in all types, shapes, and<br />
colours—from salt-water species to freshwater molluscs. They came<br />
to market from Australia, French Polynesia, China, Indonesia, the<br />
Philippines, Myanmar, Mexico, China and more.<br />
Above: Tahitian pearl necklace by Devino.<br />
(Photo: Devino)<br />
Fabergé pendant featuring a natural pearl and<br />
diamonds set in gold, Belle Epoque, early 1900s.<br />
(Photo: Gemolithos)<br />
Mabé pearl set in sterling<br />
silver by Bella Donna Silver.<br />
(Photo: Bella Donna Silver)<br />
Round Edison pearl (9mm) set in 9ct gold by<br />
Ikecho. (Photo: Ikecho)<br />
Today, the cultured pearl continues to enjoy a high degree of popularity<br />
and the traditional strand has become a must-have in many jewellery<br />
wardrobes. Even the natural pearl, while rare and very expensive, has<br />
an audience, even if much more restricted than before. While cultured<br />
salt-water South Sea pearls have reduced price levels from those of the<br />
natural pearls, there has been further “democratisation” of the pearl<br />
industry with the arrival of freshwater species, with 95 percent coming<br />
notably from China.<br />
38<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Mabé pearl pendant set in<br />
sterling silver by Bella Donna Silver.<br />
(Photo: Bella Donna Silver)<br />
Necklace comprised of a selection of different pearl types<br />
and colours by Devino. (Photo: Devino)<br />
Continuing appeal<br />
Why do pearls have such appeal? “Pearls are classic, and I think they will<br />
always be regarded as a popular jewellery category,” says Erica Miller,<br />
director and designer at Sydney-based Ikecho, specialising in South Sea,<br />
Tahitian, Akoya, Mabé and Chinese Freshwater Pearls. “They can be<br />
dressed up or down. There is so much variety of styles and colours,<br />
so they match any outfit.” She notes that earrings and pendants<br />
are quite popular but that “customers always love the classic stud<br />
earrings, and all ages wear them on a daily basis.”<br />
“Pearls are very fashionable, and their glowing lustre perfectly<br />
complements gemstones,” explains Caroline Zingg, pearl<br />
specialist at Sydney-based Devino, which specialises in Akoya,<br />
Tahitian and White South Sea pearls as well as custom<br />
requests and hard-to-find pearls. “Younger consumers have<br />
a strong interest in pearl jewellery and appreciate the fact that<br />
the gems are a renewable and sustainable resource.” She adds<br />
that she has seen strong demand in the last few years, both with<br />
classic gem quality strands and unique creations, which they set in<br />
18ct gold. “The large range of sizes, colours, and shapes enable many<br />
combinations. Each pearl is one of a kind and it is very hard to compare<br />
one to another, making them very individual items of jewellery.”<br />
Based in Nambour QLD, Bella Donna Silver features a pearl line in its<br />
sterling silver collection of jewellery. Donna Quinn, owner, says that<br />
pearls are so popular because they “are soft and beautiful, giving great<br />
energy to pearl-loving people.” She explains that button pearls and<br />
Mabé pearls are the company’s most popular types, adding “We also<br />
have recently introduced Rice pearls.”<br />
Baroque “Quetzal” brooch featuring a baroque South<br />
Sea Golden Pearl set in 18ct gold and diamonds by<br />
Jewelmer. (Photo: Jewelmer)<br />
“Seahorse” brooch featuring<br />
baroque pearls, gemstones, and<br />
diamonds in 18ct gold by Alessio<br />
Boschi. (Photo: Alessio Boschi)<br />
Dressing up the pearl itself is seen<br />
in this soufflé variety, sliced in half<br />
and set with turquoise, rubies and<br />
seed pearls with gold accents and<br />
ear wires. (Photo: Little H)<br />
Pink 9mm Chinese freshwater pearl button<br />
studs in sterling silver by Ikecho. (Photo: Ikecho)<br />
Going for baroque<br />
Increasingly, the classic round pearl is sharing the spotlight with other<br />
types of pearls. Miller notes that “the irregular baroque and keshi<br />
styles are very on-trend at the moment, as well as freshwater Edison<br />
pearls, which look very similar to the Broome South Sea Pearl but are<br />
very affordable.”<br />
Baroque pearls also afford endless possibilities for creative designers,<br />
whose imaginations pair them with coloured gemstones, other types<br />
and colours of pearls, and even diamonds for a look that is original and<br />
individual.<br />
Thailand-based Italian designer brand Alessio Boschi has had a<br />
longstanding love affair with baroque pearls. He seeks out these<br />
“perfectly imperfect pearls” to embellish his collection of whimsical<br />
sea life, rabbits, cats, mythical creatures and other motifs. He also uses<br />
baroque pearls to bring attention to climate change and melting icecaps<br />
that evoke desperate polar bears or endangered sharks.<br />
Dressing up pearls in a different way is USA-based pearl brand Little H.<br />
Designer Hisano Shepherd often slices pearls, including rare freshwater<br />
soufflé types, and fills them with an array of gems for a surprising and<br />
colourful geode effect.<br />
With its versatility, beauty and availability in modern and traditional<br />
jewellery styles, set with coloured gems, diamonds or even stand-alone,<br />
it is no wonder that the power of the pearl makes this organic gem the<br />
perfect birthstone for June. ■<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 39
TAG HEUER’S NEW WATCH WITH<br />
LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS<br />
The Watches and Wonders show in Geneva last month saw Tag Heuer unveil<br />
the Carrera Plasma — a new iteration of the famed Carrera model but now<br />
featuring 11.7 carats of lab-grown diamonds.<br />
The Swiss watchmaker, whose initials<br />
— TAG — stand for Techniques d’Avant<br />
Garde, has lived up to the promise<br />
embodied in those initials. The company sees<br />
the incorporation of lab-grown diamonds into<br />
its brand as a major milestone in the over-160-<br />
year company history and the watch industry<br />
at large.<br />
Entering the lab-grown diamond sector is a<br />
defining step for a watch company and Tag<br />
Heuer has chosen to focus on the avant-garde<br />
aesthetics as well as redefining technological<br />
and creative limits. By adding the precision<br />
aspect of lab-grown diamonds into its product<br />
universe, Tag Heuer is provided with a creative<br />
freedom that rarely comes with mined<br />
diamonds. New diamond shapes are possible<br />
and the stones can be used in unique and<br />
innovative ways.<br />
“Chemical vapour deposition (CVD)<br />
technology, which we refer to as ‘Diamant<br />
d’Avant-Garde’ at TAG Heuer, enables us<br />
to explore the versatility of carbon in the<br />
form of lab-grown diamonds – to create a<br />
stunning timepiece where diamonds are<br />
used in very unique shapes and textures.<br />
Lab-grown diamonds allow us to innovate and<br />
experiment with this exceptional material, and<br />
this opens up a new realm of possibilities for<br />
designers, watchmakers and engineers”, said<br />
Edouard Mignon, chief innovation officer at<br />
Tag Heuer.<br />
The TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma, powered by<br />
the H02 Tourbillon Nanograph movement, has<br />
CVD lab-grown diamonds set in the case, and<br />
features embellished indexes. A polycrystalline<br />
diamond dial is one incredible component<br />
of this new watch. It looks like many tiny<br />
40<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
diamonds on the dial, but the face is actually one single<br />
plate of 3.9 carat diamond. This is CVD technology. Diamond<br />
does not exist in nature in this format says the company.<br />
More diamonds embellish the case, all in custom shapes<br />
that would have been prohibitively expensive to fashion<br />
(and source) from natural stones. The crown, at 3 o’clock,<br />
is created entirely in a 2.5 carat lab-grown diamond. The 11<br />
indexes in white gold are set with a diamond each and sport<br />
a double index at 12 o’clock.<br />
The lab-grown diamonds used are manufactured by a<br />
network of partners specialising in lab-grown diamond<br />
design, including Capsoul, a start-up based in Israel.<br />
The innovations go well beyond the surface and into the<br />
Nanograph movement which is equipped with a carbon<br />
hairspring also using CVD technology.<br />
The watch took two years to design and produce and will<br />
retail for 350,000 Swiss francs (AUD $505,000). It is the<br />
most expensive Tag Heuer timepiece yet produced and<br />
the brand says it expects to produce three or four Plasma<br />
watches this year.<br />
DISCOVER THE<br />
WORLD OF PEARLS<br />
A: 1202/115 PITT STREET, SYDNEY NSW 2000<br />
T: 02 9261 3555 | E: DEVINO@DEVINO.COM | W: DEVINO.COM
AN OMEGA SPEEDMASTER FOR $380?<br />
The Omega x Swatch Bioceramic MoonSwatch is cleared for landing.<br />
In what might be the coolest collaboration in watches since Antoni Patek<br />
met Adrien Philippe in 1844, Omega and Swatch have collaborated on the<br />
famous ‘Moonwatch’ and completely changed the world.<br />
The result is being called the MoonSwatch and its release caused<br />
chaos around the planet. Who on earth said wristwatches were<br />
dead? In scenes to rival new iPhone drops, watch enthusiasts<br />
camped out all night, lines stretched around blocks from Geneva<br />
to Melbourne — and, by all accounts, a jolly good time was had by<br />
all. Aside from Singapore, where one man allowed the stress of the<br />
moment to overwhelm his commonsense, most shoppers found<br />
the atmosphere festive, commenting on the arrival of a new era in<br />
watchmaking.<br />
In Australia, the Swatch stores in Melbourne and Sydney saw crowds<br />
lining up overnight, while similar frenzied scenes took place in<br />
Hong Kong, Singapore, London, New York and in<br />
Switzerland. Swatch was obliged to limit sales to<br />
one watch per customer with an apology and<br />
the promise to revert back to two watches per<br />
customer as soon as possible. Both companies<br />
appeared taken aback by what Swatch called<br />
“unexpected and phenomenal demand.”<br />
So what is all the fuss about?<br />
As the brands involved say, this collab “follows the popular trend of<br />
collaborations between luxury and street brands to create innovative<br />
new products that blend the best of both worlds”. The new watch has<br />
the look and style of an Omega Speedmaster and the price of a Swatch.<br />
For Omega, the joint mission is both a fun undertaking and a respectful<br />
nod to the plucky company that risked it all to kick-start the ailing Swiss<br />
watch industry during the quartz revolution in the 1980s.<br />
Omega’s Speedmaster is often known as the Moonwatch, given that it is<br />
one of the few wristwatches to have walked on the moon. It generally<br />
retails in Australia for around $7,500.<br />
The brands have created a series of 11 watches that<br />
take their design inspiration from space.<br />
Named after the planets, the sun, honorary<br />
planet Pluto, and the moon, the watches<br />
are colourful — but even a keen Omega fan<br />
42<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong><br />
Original speedmaster
would be hard pushed to tell the design differences in<br />
the overall look. The key Moonwatch design features<br />
are all there. The asymmetrical case, the famous<br />
tachymeter scale with dot over ninety and the<br />
distinctive Speedmaster subdials, which all work<br />
perfectly.<br />
All of the Swatches are in Bioceramic, a unique<br />
mix of two-thirds ceramic and one-third<br />
material derived from castor oil. The result is an<br />
extraordinarily lightweight watch that fans say feels<br />
as if it defies gravity on your wrist.<br />
For Omega President and CEO Raynald Aeschlimann,<br />
the new collection is a source of pride. “Omega’s long<br />
and distinguished history may have been cut short if it wasn’t<br />
for the vision and the courage taken by Swatch. The MoonSwatch<br />
collection salutes the saviours of our<br />
industry in a witty and accessible way.<br />
The Swatches are perfect for budding<br />
Moonwatch fans and I can’t think of a<br />
more appropriate icon for our shared<br />
project. We went to the moon, now<br />
we’re exploring the whole Milky Way.<br />
They’re great watches, in fantastic<br />
colours and they make me smile.”<br />
The new collection, in rarely seen<br />
colours, is all about giving Omega’s<br />
professional timepiece a playful<br />
twist. Each MoonSwatch features its<br />
own mission statement, inspirational<br />
engravings and joint Omega X Swatch<br />
logos on the dial and crown. The<br />
battery cover on each watch features<br />
a depiction of its planet. A spacesuitready<br />
Velcro strap adds a final touch of<br />
astronaut chic.<br />
Retailing in Australia for $380, the<br />
watches are not yet available online<br />
— only via selected stores. Swatch<br />
has insisted it will try to fulfil demand<br />
and promises that "that anyone who<br />
is moonstruck by this Omega x Swatch<br />
collaboration will soon be able to lay<br />
their hands on one of these watches."<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 43
ROLEX IS THE WORLD’S<br />
MOST INSTAGRAMMABLE<br />
WATCH BRAND<br />
Online watch market portal Chrono24 has recently found<br />
that the watch brand enjoying the largest number of<br />
hashtags on social media platform Instagram is Rolex.<br />
Chrono24 conducted research aiming to learn which watch was the most Instagrammed<br />
in the world, and found that (at the time of research) Rolex had a massive 2,496,606<br />
combined hashtag instances for #rolexwatch and #rolexwatches.<br />
The hashtag #rolexwatch had been used more than 1.8m times by Instagram users while<br />
the more specific hashtag #rolexoyster has been used for more than 100k Instagram<br />
posts. Other combinations of ‘rolex’ and other words such as ‘new’, ‘style’ etc filled the<br />
remaining instances.<br />
American brand Fossil came in at second place with 2,055,477 combined hashtag<br />
instances for #fossilwatch and #fossilwatches on Instagram.<br />
Japanese brands took third and fourth place with Casio with 1,156,958 Instagram hashtag<br />
usages while Seiko came in fourth.<br />
The top ten most Instagrammed watches are:<br />
Rolex – 2,497,606<br />
Fossil – 2,055,477<br />
Casio – 1,156,958<br />
Seiko – 1,089,534<br />
Michael Kors – 940,615<br />
Guess – 868,911<br />
Omega – 783,401<br />
G-SHOCK – 733,892<br />
Cartier – 441,619<br />
Gucci – 420,012<br />
A spokesperson from Chrono24.com commented: “Watches are an effective way to<br />
complement a style and are sometimes used as a statement piece to emulate success<br />
with many using social media to show off their luxury timepieces. The data shows that<br />
watchmakers such as Rolex and Seiko are the most popular, but fashion designer brands<br />
like Michael Kors and Guess are breaking into the watchmaking industry.”<br />
It is interesting to note the number of reasonably ‘affordable’ watch brands in that list,<br />
with seven out of the top ten offering excellent value timepieces.<br />
44<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
BREITLING’S LEGENDARY<br />
TIMEPIECE TURNS 70<br />
For 70 years, Breitling’s original pilot’s watch has been beloved by aviators<br />
and tastemakers in equal measure. Worn by an astronaut in space and the<br />
biggest stars on Earth, it is Breitling’s most iconic timepiece.<br />
The brand has unveiled a redesigned<br />
collection of the Navitimer that is all about<br />
bold colour.<br />
“We don’t throw the term ‘icon’ around<br />
lightly,” says Georges Kern, CEO of<br />
Breitling. “The Navitimer is one of the most<br />
recognisable watches ever made. It’s on<br />
collectors’ lists of the greatest watches of all<br />
time. What began as a tool for pilots has gone<br />
on to mean something profound to every<br />
single person who has had this timepiece<br />
along on their personal journey.”<br />
Not even its inventor could have predicted the<br />
phenomenon the Navitimer would become. In<br />
1952, Willy Breitling developed a wrist-worn<br />
chronograph with a circular slide rule that<br />
would allow pilots to perform all necessary<br />
flight calculations. Two years later, the Aircraft<br />
Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA), the<br />
largest aviators’ club in the world, announced<br />
the design as its official timepiece. The<br />
association’s winged logo was emblazoned<br />
at 12 o’clock, and the “navigation timer”—or<br />
Navitimer—was born.<br />
To create the new Navitimer, Breitling<br />
preserved the most recognisable aspects of<br />
the icon’s design code. From a distance, this<br />
is unmistakably a Navitimer, with its circular<br />
slide rule, baton indexes, trio of chronograph<br />
counters, and notched bezel for easy grip. Up<br />
close, however, its modern refinements come<br />
through loud and clear.<br />
A flattened slide rule and a domed crystal<br />
create the illusion of a more compact profile.<br />
Alternating polished and brushed finishes give<br />
the metal elements a lustrous yet understated<br />
quality. A slimmer silhouette on the oscillating<br />
weight enhances the open-caseback view<br />
of the COSC-certified Breitling Manufacture<br />
Caliber 01. This movement is backed by a<br />
five-year warranty, provides approximately 70<br />
hours of power reserve, and allows the wearer<br />
to change the date—now visible through a<br />
discreet window in the subdial at 6 o’clock—at<br />
any time.<br />
The watch comes in a range of sizes (46, 43,<br />
or 41 mm), two case materials (stainless steel<br />
or 18-karat red gold), and a choice of straps<br />
(semi-shiny alligator or seven-row metal<br />
bracelet). Modern colours in shades of blue,<br />
green, and copper define its updated dial<br />
options. And if there is one feature sure to<br />
spark nostalgia, it’s the return of the AOPA<br />
wings to their original position at 12 o’clock.<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 45
NEW PRODUCTS<br />
Ellendale Diamonds Australia | Desert Rose<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> | +61 8 6180 1562<br />
Large and small captivating 18K W/R gold perpetual circular<br />
pendants.<br />
Large –16=0.24ct round white diamonds FSI and 16=0.24ct round<br />
Argyle pink diamonds 7PR SIAV.<br />
Small –8=0.12ct round white diamonds G+ SI and 8=0.12ct round<br />
Argyle pink diamonds 7PR SIAV.<br />
www.ellendalediamonds.com.au<br />
Ellani Collections | +61 2 9899 1525<br />
New heart designs from the Ellani AW <strong>2022</strong> release, silver with gold<br />
or rose gold plating with cubic zirconia.<br />
www.ellanicollections.com.au<br />
Ellendale Diamonds Australia | Desert Rose<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> | +61 8 6180 1562<br />
18K W/R gold cluster earrings. Versatile and vivacious.<br />
Square earrings feature of 18=0.27ct Argyle pink diamonds<br />
6PP SIAV enveloped by 32=0.48ct G+ SI diamonds.<br />
Round earrings feature 14=0.168ct Argyle pink diamonds 6PP<br />
SIAV and completed with 24=0.36ct G+ SI diamonds.<br />
www.ellendalediamonds.com.au<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre | +61 7 3221 3838<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre’s New Range of Pendants<br />
9ct yellow gold assorted pendants:<br />
White CZ dragonfly pendant<br />
White CZ open heart pendant<br />
Diamond moon pendant<br />
www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com<br />
46<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
astian inverun | Osjag<br />
The latest release from bastian inverun silver. Freshwater<br />
pearl set in silver with 18ct gold plate.<br />
www.osjag.com<br />
Stones and Silver<br />
+61 3 9587 1215<br />
Beautiful new .925 Sterling Silver<br />
birthflower necklaces. Available in<br />
a set of 12, one for each month or<br />
individually they are the perfect<br />
range to compliment your store.<br />
stonesandsilver.com.au<br />
Bianc | +61 413 872 810<br />
Bianc introduces some beautiful new additions to the Sirène<br />
Collection, featuring contemporary chokers and bold baroque pearls.<br />
All pearls are freshwater. These stunning pieces range from<br />
RRP$99-$359.<br />
info@bianc.com.au | @bianc_jewellery | www.bianc.com.au<br />
Ikecho Australia | +61 2 9266 0636<br />
Sterling silver U-shaped keshi white 10-11mm & opal<br />
6mm stud earrings. Product code” IP150EU-OK6<br />
www.ikecho.com.au<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 47
International trade shows!<br />
Missed the thrill of baggage claim? The exotic lure of check-in queues and customs control? Aching to feel<br />
that long-haul air-conditioning in your hair, the crisp tingle of micro-packets of peanuts in your fingers? Want<br />
to get out into the world again, see what everyone’s been up to?<br />
Aussies, Kiwi, they’ve let us out, we can travel again! And an international jewellery show or two makes a fine<br />
excuse to dust off the passport and pack a bag. Let’s go!<br />
Here is a list of up-coming international fairs and trade shows – a list that looks more and more stable as<br />
things return to what is definitely not normal but probably as close as we’re going to get. (Not complaining!)<br />
Gem Genève<br />
<strong>May</strong> 5-8, <strong>2022</strong><br />
26th International <strong>Jewellery</strong>, Kobe<br />
<strong>May</strong> 26-28, <strong>2022</strong><br />
Antique <strong>Jewellery</strong> and Watch Show, Las Vegas <strong>2022</strong><br />
June 9-12, <strong>2022</strong><br />
JCK Luxury Las Vegas <strong>2022</strong><br />
June 8-13, <strong>2022</strong><br />
JCK Las Vegas <strong>2022</strong><br />
June 10-13, <strong>2022</strong><br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> and Gem ASIA Hong Kong<br />
June 16-19, <strong>2022</strong><br />
Bangkok Gems and <strong>Jewellery</strong> Fair (BGCF)<br />
September 7-11, <strong>2022</strong><br />
Denver HardRock Summit Sparkle and Joy<br />
September 8-11, <strong>2022</strong><br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> and Gem <strong>World</strong> Hong Kong<br />
September 16-19, <strong>2022</strong><br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> and Gem <strong>World</strong> Singapore<br />
September 27-30, <strong>2022</strong><br />
Mineralientage München and Gemworld Munich <strong>2022</strong><br />
September 30-October 2, <strong>2022</strong><br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> and Gem ASEAN Bangkok<br />
November 2-5, <strong>2022</strong><br />
HKTDC Hong Kong International <strong>Jewellery</strong> Show<br />
July 29-August 2, <strong>2022</strong><br />
48<br />
jewellery world - <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Calling all Retailers<br />
Calling all Retailers<br />
Calling all Retailers
chain<br />
services<br />
services<br />
AUSTRALIAN<br />
JEWELLERY TOOLS<br />
WHOLESALER<br />
SPECIALISING IN QUALITY<br />
JEWELLERY TOOLS & EQUIPMENT<br />
WITH EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE<br />
Chris O’Neill<br />
Piecemaker<br />
2015 YJG Bench Challenge<br />
Hand Engraving Champion.<br />
Also specialising in quality<br />
Handmakes, Repairs and<br />
Antique restorations in the<br />
Sydney CBD.<br />
0405 689 834<br />
MILN & CO. Pty Ltd<br />
Ph: 02 4655 7707 M: 0412 702 834<br />
E:stuart.miln@milnco.com.au<br />
Lancier Watch Bands - Leather, metal, sports.<br />
Watchglasses. Seals. Batteries. Quartz Movements.<br />
Pins/tools. <strong>Jewellery</strong> findings. J C Hurst Bangles.<br />
Fischer Barometers and Tide Clocks<br />
for sale<br />
PO Box 112<br />
Toronto NSW 2283<br />
P: 02 9380 4742 ∙ F: 02 8580 6168<br />
E: sales@adelaimports.com<br />
Adela Imports offer over 180<br />
designs of sterling silver chain,<br />
with up to 20 lengths available<br />
in each from stock.<br />
Also offering a range of<br />
uniquely designed silver<br />
jewellery.<br />
Catalogue available.<br />
www.adelaimports.com<br />
(07) 3876 7481<br />
sales@labanda.com.au<br />
FAX: (07) 3368 3100<br />
ADELAIDE (08) 7221 2202<br />
MELBOURNE (03) 9038 8545<br />
PERTH (08) 6363 5517<br />
SYDNEY (02) 8004 1626<br />
www.labanda.com.au<br />
diamonds and coloured stones<br />
Glues<br />
for sale<br />
Retail <strong>Jewellery</strong> Business for Sale<br />
Established 35 years ago in<br />
busy Gold Coast street location.<br />
Includes retail fit out, fully<br />
equipped jewellery, valuation and<br />
watchmaking workshops. Would<br />
suit a manufacturing jeweller<br />
specialising in design and makes<br />
and/or watchmaker.<br />
Owners seeking to retire<br />
$75,000 plus stock at cost.<br />
Contact Norm on 0450 903 325.<br />
Fantastic Sea Change Opportunity<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> and Giftware Business in Nelson Bay, NSW<br />
Established 21 years ago in coastal area of Port Stephens.<br />
Only 2.5 hours drive north of Sydney. Only one other manufacturing competitor.<br />
Swim software for POS and Stock management, including price tickets. Retail has large<br />
Chubb safe and alarm systems in both locations. Great retail location in Main Street and<br />
workshop located separately 85 meters away in arcade.<br />
Low rent $42K annual for both shops. Both leases negotiable. Large marketable client list.<br />
W.I.W.O $450,000 ONO [Current stock $178K at cost ($501K retail), fittings and equipment<br />
$61K]. Workshop includes display windows, 2 x work benches, Ratner safe and office<br />
fittings only, not tools. Take without stock at $275,000.<br />
Contact Roger 0414 821 931<br />
ADVERTISE HERE<br />
The classifieds section is an excellent place for suppliers and<br />
manufacturers to advertise products and services in a longrunning,<br />
low cost way.<br />
All size ads are available and may include product<br />
photos. Visit our website to download our media<br />
for prices.<br />
www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
pack<br />
Relaxing ...<br />
A group of chess enthusiasts checked into a hotel and were<br />
standing in the lobby discussing their recent tournament victories.<br />
After about an hour, the manager came out of the office and<br />
asked them to disperse. “But why?” they asked, as they moved off.<br />
“Because,” he said, “I can’t stand chess nuts boasting in an open<br />
foyer.”<br />
Police arrested two kids yesterday. One was drinking battery acid,<br />
the other was eating fireworks. They charged one and let the other<br />
one off.<br />
I’m on a whiskey diet. I’ve lost three days already.
Calling all Suppliers<br />
Calling all Suppliers<br />
Calling all Suppliers
SPECIALISING IN ITALIAN MADE<br />
TENNIS MOUNTS AND GOLD CHAINS