Jewellery World Magazine - July 2022
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JULY <strong>2022</strong><br />
AUSTRALIA AND NEW<br />
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE<br />
Celebrating 126 years of excellence
Concept to Creation<br />
YOUR JEWELLERY DESIGN BROUGHT TO LIFE<br />
Palloys has the largest CAD team in Australia, supported by the<br />
most cutting-edge technology. The start to finish approach is what<br />
makes us truly remarkable at Palloys.<br />
1300 886 108 | AUSTRALIA WIDE<br />
palloys.com
Affection Diamonds<br />
Diamonds & <strong>Jewellery</strong> Wholesalers<br />
Suite 504, Level -5 250 Pitt Street Sydney NSW -2000<br />
Call Us: 02 9264 2211 | Mobile: 0400 60 70 70<br />
Email: affectiondiamonds@gmail.com<br />
www.affectiondiamonds.com.au<br />
Buy Diamonds With Confidence<br />
Now Gemstones & Lab grown Diamonds are<br />
Available on Order<br />
YOUR ONE STOP SHOP FOR DIAMONDS<br />
Gia Certified Diamonds<br />
Argyle Pinks<br />
Natural Fancy Colour Diamonds<br />
Calibrated Small Diamonds<br />
Old Cut<br />
Single Cut<br />
Rose Cut Diamonds<br />
Matching Pairs<br />
Black Diamonds<br />
Salt & Pepper Diamonds<br />
Treated Colour Diamonds<br />
Coloured Gemstones<br />
Lab Grown Diamonds<br />
Follow us on :
<strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />
ABN: 82 637 204 454<br />
ISSN: 2207-6751<br />
PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570<br />
P: 0431 844 903<br />
Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
managing director<br />
Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903<br />
jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
editor<br />
editor@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
contributing writers<br />
Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />
Stefan Juengling<br />
Cynthia Unninayer<br />
Cheryl D Harty<br />
art<br />
design@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
advertising sales<br />
sales@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
REGULARS<br />
6 News<br />
14 Trade Well with Rami Baron<br />
16 JAA News<br />
58 Birthstone - Peridot<br />
62 Watches<br />
64 New Products<br />
66 Directory<br />
FEATURES<br />
24 Insight into our opal hunters<br />
An indepth look at the state of the market for<br />
Australia's national gemstone<br />
36 The opal trail<br />
The series of opal tradeshows that takes you<br />
across the country<br />
20<br />
44<br />
50<br />
44 Profile: Opal Minded<br />
A bespoke opal jewellery company places<br />
sustainability to the fore<br />
DISCLAIMER:<br />
52 All that glitters<br />
Story-telling through social media and why<br />
it's important to your business<br />
This publication may not be reproduced<br />
in whole or part without the written<br />
permission of the Publisher.<br />
Articles express the opinions of the<br />
authors and are not necessarily those of the<br />
Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or<br />
service in this magazine does not indicate the<br />
Publisher’s endorsement.<br />
AUSTRALIA AND NEW<br />
JULY <strong>2022</strong><br />
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE<br />
The Publisher excludes all liability for<br />
loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false<br />
or misleading statements that may appear<br />
in this publication.<br />
All information is copyright.<br />
Celebrating 126 years of excellence<br />
FRONT COVER<br />
Sherman Opals<br />
www.shermanopals.com.au<br />
4<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />
All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />
• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, 2020 (Homebush)<br />
• International • Sydney AGHA <strong>Jewellery</strong> Gift Fair -September - February 21-24, 12-14, 2020 (Homebush)<br />
(Darling Harbour)<br />
• International <strong>Jewellery</strong> Fair -September 12-14, 2020 (Darling Harbour)<br />
TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU
News<br />
IGI certifies world's largest lab grown<br />
diamond<br />
The International Gemological Institute (IGI), the<br />
world’s largest independent gemological laboratory,<br />
has analysed and graded a 30.18 carat laboratory<br />
grown diamond as the world’s largest to date.<br />
Britney Spear's wedding jewellery<br />
Britney Spears has married, and she was truly a sparkling bride, with more than<br />
US$550,000 worth of jewellery brightening up her wedding day.<br />
Her exclusive jewellery designer for the event, Stephanie Gottlieb, said that<br />
Britney wanted simple classic jewellery that would make a statement without<br />
overshadowing other features of the wedding.<br />
“So we were tasked with creating beautiful and iconic pieces that would add to her<br />
overall ensemble, sticking true to what we do with our own designs and styling her<br />
in something unique and memorable.”<br />
Britney had two platinum wedding bands made to<br />
pair with her engagement ring. One band is a classic<br />
round diamond eternity band, while the second is<br />
a marquise diamond band. The bridegroom Sam<br />
Asghari also had two platinum wedding bands,<br />
one with a polished beveled edge, the other with a<br />
polished step edge.<br />
Britney accessorised her wedding dress with a heart shape tennis necklace<br />
featuring 27 carats of diamonds and a 23-carat oval diamond tennis bracelet and<br />
diamond drop earrings featuring round diamond and pear-shaped drops set in pave<br />
diamond halos.<br />
“The mix of brilliant diamonds in different shapes is a fun way to style these classic<br />
pieces and suits her playful personality,” said Stephanie.<br />
Harrods turns blue for<br />
Tiffany’s birthday<br />
The orange lights of Harrods by night is<br />
one of the enduring images of London. The<br />
building has been lit that way for almost all of<br />
its 173 year history.<br />
But for Tiffany and Co.’s 150th birthday,<br />
Harrods went blue.<br />
The “Pride of India” is the<br />
first polished lab grown<br />
diamond to exceed 30 carats,<br />
sneaking just over the mark at<br />
30.18ct. Produced by Ethereal<br />
Green Diamond LLP, the<br />
breakthrough stone is emerald<br />
cut and was on display at JCK Las Vegas in early June.<br />
The type IIa rough crystal the gem was cut from took<br />
approximately four weeks to grow via the Chemical<br />
Vapour Deposition (CVD) process and was graded to<br />
have H colour, VS2 clarity.<br />
Ethereal Green Diamond is headquartered in Mumbai,<br />
India, and is well-known for producing large, highquality<br />
lab grown diamonds.<br />
Gold jewellery saved from rats<br />
In an adventurous tale that someone should tell<br />
Disney, Mumbai police have rescued a bag of jewellery<br />
from rats as they dragged it through the gutters.<br />
In a bizarre series of events, Sundari Planibel was on<br />
her way to deposit a bag of jewellery in the bank. In<br />
the same bag was a vada pav (a deep fried potato<br />
dumpling in a bread bun).<br />
When she met a begger and her children on the street,<br />
Planibel gave her the vada pav, forgetting the jewellery<br />
was in the same bag. The beggar, unimpressed with<br />
the dry bun, tossed the bag into the gutter, where rats<br />
dragged it back to a garbage dump.<br />
When Planibel alerted the police later, a team of cops<br />
were able to use CCTV footage to track down the<br />
beggar and the path of the rats, returning the gold<br />
jewellery to Planibel.<br />
The event meant changing 7,500 light bulbs,<br />
which the store promises will be completely<br />
recycled.<br />
6<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
LONG<br />
LIVE<br />
LOVE<br />
We are proud to announce the evolution of<br />
Peter W Beck to BECKS.<br />
This move pays respect to our trail blazing father and it also<br />
signals some positive changes we are bringing to the next<br />
generation of our company. On behalf of everyone at BECKS<br />
we will continue to champion this great industry and the long<br />
lasting affects it has on people.
News<br />
Kimberley Process avoids censuring<br />
Russia<br />
A rift has developed within the Kimberley<br />
Process (KP) for its failure to address the issue<br />
of Russian diamonds after Russia’s invasion of<br />
Ukraine.<br />
The international conflict diamond body held<br />
a June meeting in Gaborone, Botswana and<br />
drew sharp criticism from its civil society arm<br />
for refusing to even place discussion about the<br />
issue on the agenda.<br />
Leviev Diamonds collaborates with con victims to<br />
create fundraising bracelet<br />
Leviev Diamonds, one of the world’s largest privately held diamond firms, is collaborating<br />
with three scam victims featured on Netflix’s documentary The Tindler Swindler to launch<br />
the Stronger Together charm bracelet, priced at $169, as a fundraising initiative.<br />
The Stronger Together bracelet features two interlocking rings in sterling silver with 18k<br />
gold vermeil, set with two natural diamonds and engraved with the words “Stronger<br />
together.” Proceeds of the bracelet sales will go to the swindler’s victims and to Women<br />
For Women International, a non-profit organisation supporting women affected by war.<br />
Over a period of years, con artist Shimon Hayut met women on the dating app Tinder<br />
while claiming to be Simon Leviev of Leviev Diamonds. He courted his victims in<br />
extravagant style before defrauding them, and he operated an elaborate pyramid<br />
scheme where he used one woman’s money to woo the next woman. All told, he stole an<br />
estimated $10 million from Tinder girlfriends.<br />
A Netflix that debuted in February 2002 entitled The Tinder<br />
Swindler followed the stories of three women – Cecilie Fjellhøy,<br />
Pernilla Sjöholm, and Ayleen Charlotte – who were swindled out<br />
of more than $500,000 between them. The Leviev family were<br />
also damaged by the false association with Hayut, who faces<br />
criminal charges in court on 28 June.<br />
Leviev Diamonds CEO Chagit Leviev said that when she and her<br />
nine siblings heard that the swindler was pretending to be a<br />
member of her family, they were all determined to support the<br />
women he had defrauded.<br />
Leviev CEO Chagit Leviev<br />
“It’s a statement,” Chagit Leviev says. “When the documentary<br />
came out, I so connected to what they went through. It hurt me. And I wanted to find a<br />
way to show this guy and support the women. We’re not just going to wait for him to pay<br />
the price for what he’s done. We want to help them for what they’ve been through.”<br />
Alrosa<br />
The KP is a coalition of governments, the<br />
diamond industry and an umbrella coalition<br />
representing civil society. The body was formed<br />
to prevent the use of diamonds to fund conflict,<br />
as state-owned Russian diamond producer<br />
Alrosa undoubtedly does for Russia now.<br />
In the run up to the June meeting, Ukraine,<br />
Australia, the EU, Britain, Canada and the United<br />
States were all pushing to place Russia on the<br />
agenda, as well as to broaden the KP’s definition<br />
of conflict diamonds.<br />
Russia, as well as Belarus, Mali, Central<br />
African Republic and Krygyzstan, objected to<br />
the proposals. The KP makes its decisions by<br />
consensus, so any hope of action has been<br />
dashed.<br />
"It was a long debate and it took a lot of<br />
comprise and negotiating to adopt the final<br />
agenda and the issue of the Russia-Ukraine war<br />
is not on it," said Jacob Thamage of Botswana,<br />
the current KP chair.<br />
“We don’t want to make this just about Simon. Simon is just one among others. There are<br />
so many fraudsters out there. There are so many victims,” Pernilla Sjöholm says. “There’s<br />
a real story behind fraud, and we shouldn’t blame the victims all the time. We should take<br />
fraud more seriously.… With this bracelet, we feel stronger together because we’re strong<br />
when we have others.” Top: Cecilie Fjellhøy, Pernilla Sjöholm, and Ayleen Charlotte pictured with<br />
Leviev CEO Chagit Leviev<br />
8<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
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News<br />
Swarovski names new CEO<br />
Throughout its 127-year history,<br />
Swarovski has been a family-managed<br />
brand. Now the company has appointed<br />
its first CEO from outside the family —<br />
Alexis Nasard. Nasard takes over the role<br />
in early <strong>July</strong>.<br />
Nasard’s recent roles include CEO<br />
of Kantar, a London-based data and<br />
analytics company, and before that, six<br />
years as CEO of Bata Group, a Swiss shoe<br />
company.<br />
Tag Heuer allows users to flaunt their NFTs IRL<br />
Tag Heuer was one of the first luxury brands to step into the wild<br />
frontier of Web3 — it was an early mover in the luxury sector<br />
with the introduction of crypto payments on its US website. Now<br />
it is updating its smartwatch technology to allow wearers to show<br />
off their NFTs right on their wrists.<br />
Most typically, an NFT is a unique piece of digital ‘art’. Equally typically, the rest of the internet finds<br />
those who bang on about their NFT collections utterly insufferable. The new functionality on the Tag<br />
Heuer Connected Calibre E4 smartwatch will allow NFT owners to display their art on the face of their<br />
watch so long as their collection is stored on the Ethereum blockchain.<br />
The adaptation will be available as a free update for Tag smartwatch owners via Apple’s App Store<br />
and Google’s Play Store. Users will be able to connect securely to crypto wallets such as Metamask or<br />
Ledger Live.<br />
Tag Heuer CEO<br />
Tag Heuer CEO Frédéric Arnault — son of LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault<br />
— plans to use the added function himself with an NFT he bought from the<br />
Bored Ape Yacht Club, he told Vogue Business. His own Bored Ape boasts an<br />
eyepatch and diamond grin, a design considered the 2470th most rare ape,<br />
according to fellow collectors. He uploaded pics of his own Tag connected<br />
watch to Instagram featuring his Bored Ape and CloneX NFTs.<br />
“We think that the wrist is a great place to display your NFT<br />
— to have it close to you but also as a way of authentication<br />
between members of the community, like a badge of<br />
honour,” Arnault added. Which is one way of looking<br />
at it.<br />
Frédéric Arnault<br />
Frédéric’s brother Alexandre, vice president of Tiffany & Co, might add his NFT<br />
Cryptopunk which he purchased in earlier in the year for USD $416,000 to<br />
his smartwatch — or then again, he might not, as he recently had Tiffany<br />
jewellers turn it into a charm.<br />
The younger Arnaults remain bullish on crypto and Web3 even as their father,<br />
LVMH head Bernard Arnault, steps into the lab grown diamond sector.<br />
Until recently, Swarovski was governed<br />
by an executive board made up of<br />
founding family members who didn’t<br />
always play nicely. In 2020, the brand<br />
named a CEO — family member Robert<br />
Buchbauer — but the squabbling<br />
continued. Buchbauer stepped down<br />
and was replaced<br />
by an interim CEO<br />
that Nasard now<br />
replaces.<br />
The company’s<br />
board of directors<br />
has also been<br />
expanded to<br />
include five nonfamily<br />
members alongside three family<br />
Alexis Nasard<br />
members.<br />
“With the appointment of Swarovski’s<br />
first external CEO, we are taking an<br />
important further step in establishing<br />
a sustainable governance model,” said<br />
Luisa Delgado, chair of the board of<br />
directors, in a statement.<br />
The Cryptopunk NFT that Tiffany VP<br />
Alexandre Arnault had made into a<br />
physical piece of jewellery.<br />
10<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
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News<br />
Zambian gem becomes world’s largest<br />
uncut emerald<br />
A 7,525-carat single-crystal emerald named Chipembele<br />
has been named the largest uncut emerald by the<br />
Guiness <strong>World</strong> Records.<br />
Unearthed from the Gemfields’ Kagem mine in Zambia,<br />
the stone is also known as ‘the rhino emerald’ as<br />
chipembele means rhino in the local indigenous dialect<br />
of the Bemba people of Zambia.<br />
“The great honour of a Zambian emerald like<br />
Chipembele achieving a Guinness <strong>World</strong> Records title<br />
is sure to further the mission of raising awareness<br />
of African coloured gemstones and promoting best<br />
practices in the industry,” noted Gemfields.<br />
100+ carat diamond sells for $12.9million<br />
The Juno diamond – a 101.44 carat pear-shaped internally flawless diamond – sold at<br />
Sotheby’s June auction in New York for USD $12.9 million. According to Sotheby’s, less<br />
than 2 percent of all gem diamonds are the Juno diamond’s category.<br />
"The appearance of a 100-carat perfect diamond at auction is a noteworthy event.<br />
Only twelve D colour, Flawless or Internally Flawless diamonds have sold at auction<br />
since 1990, and Sotheby's has had the privilege of selling seven of these important<br />
stones," said a post on Sotheby's web site.<br />
“The rarity of Chipembele is evident when looking<br />
at its unusually large size, coupled with an incredible<br />
transparency and vivid green colour,” remarked<br />
Gemfields. “By shining a light through Chipembele,<br />
you can see deep within the gemstone and witness<br />
the intensity of colour and the unusual absence of<br />
inclusions.”<br />
Chipembele was discovered in <strong>July</strong> 2021. It is owned by<br />
Avraham Eshed of Israel.<br />
"Just a handful of diamonds over 100 carats have<br />
ever been offered at auction," said Quig Bruning,<br />
head of jewellery for Sotheby's Americas. "The fact<br />
that we have two in one sale is rare beyond rare."<br />
The Earth Star, a 111.59 carat deep orange-brown<br />
diamond, was on sale for the first time in four<br />
decades.<br />
According to Barron's, the Earth Star is listed in the<br />
book "Famous Diamonds" by Lord Ian Balfour and<br />
was originally a 248.9-carat rough diamond found in<br />
South Africa in 1967.<br />
Both diamonds are about the size of a ‘small egg’<br />
according to Sotheby’s.<br />
VicenzaOro September is back!<br />
One of the major stops on the tradeshow circuit, the<br />
September VicenzaOro show, emerges from Covidhibernation<br />
this year. The fair returns to Vicenza from<br />
9-13 September.<br />
This year, the event will also feature VO Vintage, open to<br />
vintage watch and jewellery collectors and enthusiasts.<br />
12<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
News<br />
Pandora buys entire store network in Portugal<br />
Danish jeweller Pandora has acquired the distribution and sales network of Visao do<br />
Tempo, its distributor in Portugal. The deal will see Pandora take over 34 locations<br />
from Visao do Tempo to assume full ownership of its Portuguese business.<br />
"The acquisition supports Pandora's Phoenix strategy<br />
that aims to drive growth through a number of<br />
initiatives including strategic network expansion,"<br />
Pandora said.<br />
"By acquiring the network in Portugal, Pandora will also<br />
get better control of its brand development and be able<br />
to build a superior omni-channel journey and improve<br />
its product offering," it added.<br />
Visao do Tempo introduced Pandora to the Portuguese market 16 years ago and<br />
today operates 25 concept stores and nine shop-in-shops in the country. All 34<br />
locations will open as Pandora owned and operated stores on <strong>July</strong> 20.<br />
Pandora’s Phoenix strategy outlines the company’s aim to tighten its control over<br />
its brand and to fuel desirability and extend reach to win Gen Z and Millennial<br />
customers.<br />
ICA appoints new CEO<br />
The International Coloured Gemstone Association<br />
(ICA) has appointed Douglas K. Hucker to serve as its<br />
next chief executive. He will replace Gary Roskin, who<br />
has led the association for the past seven years.<br />
Prior to joining the ICA, Hucker served over two<br />
decades as CEO of the American Gem Trade<br />
Association (AGTA). His industry involvement has<br />
incorporated participation on the boards of many<br />
associations, including the AGTA, the American Gem<br />
Society, the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, <strong>World</strong><br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Confederation (CIBJO).<br />
In his new role, Hucker will work to expand ICA’s<br />
membership, strengthen the organisation’s influence<br />
and resources, and uphold its role in public and<br />
industry affairs as an advocate for its members and<br />
the coloured gemstone industry at large.<br />
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DIGITAL TIPS AND TRICKS<br />
So, this month’s article is going to be fun.<br />
Why? Because I'm going to show you a bunch of really cool web tools that you might not<br />
know about, as well as a few tips and tricks I've learnt on my iPhone.<br />
(Sorry Android users, I can't help you in the first part of this article).<br />
My Six Favourite Apple Tools<br />
1. Moving the cursor like a mouse<br />
Remember the ol’ press-and-hold magnifying<br />
glass from previous versions of the IOS? Well,<br />
it’s gone. Never coming back. So, these days,<br />
if you make a spelling mistake in a text or<br />
email how can you position exactly where you<br />
want it? Press and hold the space bar. As you<br />
can see in the photos below, all the letters<br />
in the keyboard disappear creating a kind of<br />
‘mousepad’ space. Keep holding and move<br />
your finger over this space. The cursor now<br />
moves around the entire text, giving you the<br />
ability to place the cursor where you need it to<br />
correct a single letter rather than retyping the<br />
entire word.<br />
This is a massive time-saving tool that, if<br />
you’re not using it already, will change your<br />
life. Believe me.<br />
2. Calculator trick<br />
You realised you've made a mistake when<br />
using the Apple phone calculator, but you only<br />
want to change the last digit instead of the<br />
whole number. The ‘clear’ button annoying<br />
deletes the whole number. But you can now<br />
simply touch the top of the screen with a flick<br />
(left or right ;) to delete the last digit. Flick<br />
again and the next digit will go too.<br />
3. Scanning documents<br />
Are you aware that the iPhone now has an<br />
incredible scanning tool? This can be done<br />
through the Notes app. Start by creating a<br />
new note and press on the camera icon. Click<br />
on the scan documents option and place<br />
your document on a background with good<br />
contrast. Your camera will then take a brilliant<br />
image of your document. The really cool<br />
thing about this is that if you touch the three<br />
intersecting circle icons at the bottom, you can<br />
choose whether you want that picture in full<br />
colour, greyscale, black and white, or receiving<br />
it as a photo. To the left of that, you can also<br />
move the corners around if you're not happy<br />
with how they're positioned, just like the<br />
cropping tool. The scan will be saved in your<br />
Notes.<br />
4. Scanning to text<br />
Another cool feature in the Notes app is<br />
scanning text. This is particularly helpful if<br />
you're reading an article and want to use<br />
14<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
DDCA NEWS<br />
Rami Baron<br />
President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia<br />
rami@ddca.org.au<br />
what's written there in an email or recreate<br />
the information from a receipt or valuation.<br />
Click on the camera icon once more but<br />
choose the scan text option this time. Through<br />
its character recognition software, you'll see<br />
how it can identify the text areas and copy<br />
them for you. This is especially useful when<br />
copying things like bank details because you<br />
DO NOT want to get it wrong.<br />
5. Photo exposure<br />
The main issue with taking photos is that they<br />
often end up being overexposed. If you're<br />
trying to take an image, touch the focal point<br />
on the screen until you see a fine yellow box<br />
appear. There will be a sun icon on the box's<br />
right side. While holding your finger on the<br />
sun icon, you can drag it up or down to change<br />
the image's exposure (brightness or darkness).<br />
I find this feature particularly good when I'm<br />
watching an early sunrise, or I'm on holiday<br />
and the pictures end up being overexposed,<br />
or there isn't enough light to capture a good<br />
image of everyone together.<br />
6. Panorama mode<br />
Here is another great camera trick. You<br />
want to photograph a tall building, perhaps<br />
with someone in it, to show the structure's<br />
magnitude or capture something in nature,<br />
but you can't fit both things in the image<br />
effectively. When you open your camera,<br />
select the panorama setting (it's the last<br />
option to the right). Once your phone has<br />
been set to panorama mode, turn your<br />
camera to the side. Take the photo while<br />
moving your phone all the way to the top of<br />
the building or mountain. You should now be<br />
able to capture everything in one photo.<br />
I could keep going with phone tricks, but I'll<br />
save some for another time.<br />
Let's have a look at some great tools that you<br />
should consider using for your website and<br />
social media.<br />
1. titlegenerator.com<br />
Say you want to create some content for social<br />
media, perhaps a blog article or a simple post,<br />
and you're searching for a strong title that will<br />
catch people's attention and generate a high<br />
ranking on the web.<br />
2. pickfu.com<br />
One thing we always do with our web pages<br />
is look for feedback on which page has the<br />
most appealing layout. Before launching a<br />
new ad campaign, we frequently produce<br />
two versions and get feedback using a tool<br />
like pickfu.com which can help us save<br />
thousands of dollars. Pickfu can conduct polls<br />
to determine which page is the best. People<br />
can actually vote on what they like and dislike<br />
and often leave comments that are incredibly<br />
helpful as feedback. It is a really good product<br />
validator tool.<br />
3. Headline analyser<br />
Another awesome tool is headline analyser,<br />
coschedule.com/headline-analyzer. Once<br />
you've chosen a headline, this tool will<br />
analyse it and provide an SEO score (for<br />
those unfamiliar with SEO, it is the process<br />
of increasing website traffic). There are<br />
some great add-ons like suggestions about<br />
increasing strong words or eliminating weak<br />
ones, and it really comes down to fine-tuning<br />
your headline.<br />
4. Mention.com<br />
Let's say you want to look up what is being<br />
said about you on social media or all over<br />
the web. You would never know about the<br />
thousands of chat groups that exist. We<br />
were once sent six pages of comments<br />
from a doctor’s chat group where people<br />
were discussing jewellery insurance and<br />
my business, Q Report, came up with high<br />
praise. Some Google tools do this to some<br />
degree, but none nearly as comprehensive as<br />
"Mention.”<br />
5. Hotjar<br />
The following tool is helpful to gauge what<br />
people are focusing on when they are looking<br />
at your website. Hotjar uses a heat map to<br />
analyse your website and can show you where<br />
users are hovering and paying attention.<br />
6. Inpaint<br />
This one I love. I know you can get an app on<br />
your phone, but sometimes you may want<br />
it on your desktop. It's called Inpaint.com. It<br />
allows you to eliminate objects from photos<br />
that take away from the image.<br />
7. Flaticon<br />
Consider visiting Flaticon.com if you want<br />
really nice quality icons for your website. You'll<br />
find a huge selection of fantastic icons you<br />
may use there.<br />
Well, I am going to stop now because, clearly, I<br />
get excited by all these things, but I'm not sure<br />
if everyone else does sooo...<br />
Trade well,,, Rami Baron.<br />
<strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 15
PRESIDENT'S<br />
MESSAGE<br />
Karen Denaro<br />
As we enter the second half of <strong>2022</strong>, I continue to reflect upon how distinctly<br />
different our current existence is since the beginning of the pandemic, and<br />
how much has transpired over the course of the last six months, alone.<br />
As a proud, first generation (Gen-X) Australian,<br />
I consider myself fortunate to have reach my<br />
mid-forties relatively unimpacted by economic<br />
crisis, particularly during my formative years.<br />
Not to diminish the impact of crisis on the<br />
generations of Australians before my mine<br />
and the generations after me, my vague<br />
recollection of interest rates reaching what<br />
was then an all-time high, and the subsequent<br />
recession, in the 80’s, did not impact my life<br />
one iota - I still went about my daily routine,<br />
without any significant disturbances.<br />
Overall, Australia rode through the last Global<br />
Financial Crisis with far more ease than most<br />
countries around the world.<br />
Fast-forward to <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>. Over the course<br />
of the last two years, Australians have been<br />
faced with the devastation of fires, floods,<br />
a never-ending and perpetually evolving<br />
pandemic - causing major disruption to our<br />
businesses, our education, the way we do<br />
groceries, our medical system and over-all<br />
the way we connect, on every level, in every<br />
sphere of life.<br />
Petrol prices have reached an all-time high.<br />
We have recently seen a huge surge in<br />
electricity and gas prices. The cost of basic,<br />
core needs are, in fact, astronomical. Iceberg<br />
lettuce anyone?!<br />
Australians are adaptable and resilient.<br />
Like the phoenix rising from the flames, we<br />
continue to rise to opportunity. Unfortunately,<br />
so does inflation!<br />
Amidst the challenges and chaos, through the<br />
uncertainty of these unprecedented times,<br />
one thing is absolute; our lives will never be<br />
the same.<br />
Over the course of the last two years, the<br />
way we operate and connect through our<br />
businesses has vastly transformed our lives.<br />
The way we communicate to our colleagues<br />
and with our clients has evolved. We rely on<br />
technology to stay connected. We have also<br />
become largely driven by what we see via our<br />
social media platforms. Our popularity based<br />
on filtered images, following, likes, hashtags,<br />
comments and overall, perception.<br />
At a time where the culture of our society<br />
shifts focus to the importance of ‘look’, rather<br />
than ‘feel’, I grow concerned about all that<br />
is organic and natural, from our means of<br />
connection to that of diamonds.<br />
The Australian jewellery trade has seen a<br />
marked increase in the demand of laboratorygrown<br />
diamonds (LGD), this year. Whilst<br />
the ultimate goal maybe to obtain a natural<br />
diamond, the current cost of living and the<br />
increasing cost of natural diamonds has<br />
Australian consumers buying into what I have<br />
heard described as, ‘perceived value dream’.<br />
‘Flash for cash’ reigns high in that dream.<br />
Make no mistake, I DO believe there is a place<br />
in the Australian market for LGDs and this<br />
sector of the market will continue to flourish.<br />
Simply put, I personally do not believe that<br />
the demand for LGDs, in Australia, will surpass<br />
that of natural diamonds.<br />
What is of growing concern is the marketing<br />
and disclosure of LGD. Also, concerns of crosspollination<br />
of LGDs infiltrating the natural<br />
diamond market. Ensuring transparency and<br />
are in fact, informed when purchasing LGDs is<br />
of paramount importance. This impacts every<br />
sector of the trade, right through the supply<br />
chain to the consumer.<br />
The Jewellers Association of Australia align<br />
with and support CIBJO Laboratory-Grown<br />
Diamond Guidelines regulations on the<br />
marketing, branding, grading and sales of<br />
LGDs. The JAA endeavour to work with the<br />
ACCC to ensure that these global regulations<br />
are also adhered to across Australia.<br />
We continue to welcome all JAA members<br />
and the Australian jewellery industry, at large,<br />
to reach out to us for further information,<br />
should you require support on the marketing,<br />
branding and sales of LGDs. We also welcome<br />
you to connect with us should you require<br />
assistance or advice on any other industry<br />
matters.<br />
16<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
YOU ARE<br />
MY<br />
ROCK.<br />
Becoming a member of the Jewellers<br />
Association of Australia has a comprehensive<br />
range of benefits.<br />
We are here to help support, protect, guide<br />
and grow your business, whilst being a voice<br />
for the Australian <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry.<br />
The <strong>2022</strong> Member Prospectus details the<br />
benefits available to members and we<br />
welcome you to contact us with any questions<br />
or feedback you may have about the JAA.<br />
INSPIRING CONFIDENCE. SINCE 1931.<br />
view the<br />
MEMBER<br />
BENEFITS<br />
jaa.com.au/benefits
LVMH INVESTS IN<br />
LAB GROWN LUXURY<br />
Ever since lab grown diamonds stepped away<br />
from their dull-brown industrial origins and<br />
into glittering light of fine jewellery, things<br />
have been tense between their supporters<br />
and the establishment behind natural mined<br />
diamonds.<br />
In 2018, the US Federal Trade Commission<br />
revised its definition of diamonds and<br />
imposed new rules on the jewellery trade,<br />
rules that became adopted globally – a<br />
diamond is a diamond, no matter how it<br />
was forged. From that moment, what is now<br />
the Natural Diamond Council established<br />
the official party line: “Crafted by nature<br />
over millions of years, natural diamonds are<br />
inherently valuable, rare and precious.” The<br />
implication was that lab grown diamonds<br />
were cheap substitutes made in a factory<br />
with no value aside from their cost of<br />
production.<br />
Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH group.<br />
It was a noble position, but it disregarded<br />
one key factor: if it shines like a diamond and<br />
it is a diamond, most customers aren't really<br />
going to care where it comes from.<br />
In the early days after this rule-change, the<br />
big luxury brands – the ones with the most to<br />
lose, including Bulgari, Cartier and Tiffany –<br />
stood and defended the natural diamond line.<br />
But times changes everything – not least<br />
carbon into diamonds.<br />
LVMH Luxury Ventures, the mega-stable of<br />
luxury brands (which now owns Tiffany) has<br />
just completed a USD $90 million investment<br />
round in an Israel-based lab grown diamond<br />
company named Lusix.<br />
Lusix is the lab grown diamond industry's<br />
first 100 percent solar-powered diamond<br />
producer. It markets its gems under the “Sun<br />
Grown Diamond” brand. It produces clear<br />
and custom-coloured rough and is one of the<br />
industry's leading producers of premiumquality<br />
diamond. The $90 million investment<br />
by LVMH will be used to bring a second 100<br />
percent solar-powered facility online in the<br />
next few months.<br />
The fact that LVMH has taken such a<br />
prominent stance in the lab grown field<br />
increases the likelihood that the lab grown<br />
market will accelerate even faster than<br />
many expected. As it stands, the entire lab<br />
grown diamond industry is estimated at just<br />
under USD $6 billion and even before this<br />
announcement, according to Forbes, was<br />
predicted to double in size by 2025.<br />
LVMH chairman and chief executive, Bernard<br />
Arnault, recently surpassed Amazon's founder<br />
Jeff Bezos to become the world's richest<br />
person with an estimated net worth of around<br />
USD $186.3 billion, according to Forbes.<br />
Arnault has made his fortune via a series of<br />
astute takeovers of luxury companies and then<br />
ensuring those brands stay at the cutting edge<br />
of trends and fashions.<br />
Lusix owner Benny Landa at JCK Las Vegas.<br />
Despite some LVMH brands holding out on lab<br />
grown diamonds (Tiffany and Bulgari), others<br />
have dived in wholeheartedly. Tag Heuer's<br />
recent lab grown diamond watch, the Carrera<br />
Plasma, was made with diamonds created<br />
by Lusix. Tag Heuer's CEO is Frederic Arnault,<br />
Bernard's son and a Millennial with a keen eye<br />
for appeals to a younger customer.<br />
The owner of Lusix, Israeli billionaire Benny<br />
Landa, was at JCK Las Vegas in June and was<br />
asked if he expected other brands in the LVMH<br />
stable to use his diamonds.<br />
Landa remained coy but his answer should<br />
give many something to ponder. “I cannot<br />
speak on behalf of LVMH, but I would ask<br />
myself why would a luxury brand make such<br />
an investment. There are obviously very good<br />
reasons,” he said.<br />
The issue remains about choice – and lab<br />
grown diamonds are an attractive choice to<br />
the next generation of luxury consumers.<br />
Natural diamonds have environmental and<br />
social challenges to overcome that 'renewable'<br />
and 'sun grown' diamonds can bypass.<br />
Not to mention, a bigger, brighter, cheaper<br />
diamond is often the choice everyone wants.<br />
The Tag Heuer Carrera Plasma with its face and accents<br />
made from lab grown diamonds.<br />
18<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Something to suit every age and taste.<br />
Let’s ‘brooch’ the matter of<br />
winter jewellery.<br />
ESSE has a fabulous range of large<br />
sterling silver brooches including<br />
vintage, classic and whimsical.<br />
Individually bead set with top<br />
grade Swarovski marcasites<br />
and semi-precious stones, these<br />
brooches make the perfect finishing<br />
touch to a coat or hat.<br />
See us at the JWNZ Spring Trade Fair September 11<br />
Contact : A M Imports P/L Tel: 03 9500 2777 E: info@amimports.com
The next chapter of the<br />
Argyle Pink Diamonds brand<br />
Two renowned jewellers have been chosen to head the Icon Partner<br />
program — a Rio Tinto strategy to secure the future development<br />
of the Argyle Pink Diamonds brand.<br />
Following the November 2020 closure of the<br />
Argyle mine in Western Australia, Rio Tinto<br />
has retained and managed the Argyle Pink<br />
Diamonds brand and has been working with<br />
its exclusive distribution network to ensure it<br />
remains the world’s only official custodian of<br />
Argyle Pink Diamonds.<br />
Rio Tinto has appointed two preeminent<br />
Argyle Pink Diamonds market developers –<br />
John Calleija and John Glajz – as its first Icon<br />
Partners. They will be licensed to use the<br />
Argyle Pink Diamonds brand for the remaining<br />
polished Argyle Pink Diamonds inventory<br />
and develop jewellery and limited edition<br />
pieces in keeping with their rarity, beauty and<br />
collectability.<br />
John Calleija is a designer and owner of luxury<br />
jewellery house Calleija, known for his award<br />
winning craftsmanship, having worked with<br />
Argyle Pink Diamonds since the beginning of<br />
the mine in 1983. Renowned for producing<br />
some of the most iconic Argyle Pink Diamonds<br />
jewelled art and wearable treasures, he<br />
will continue to honour the Argyle legacy by<br />
developing further one-of-a-kind creations<br />
and limited edition collections.<br />
John Calleija said “Argyle Pink Diamonds have<br />
been much of my life’s work and I am looking<br />
forward to continuing to create works of art<br />
and wearable treasures for our clients around<br />
the globe that are worthy of the brand’s<br />
heritage diamond status,” said John Calleija.<br />
Singapore-based John Glajz, of rare gem<br />
specialist Glajz THG, has been creating<br />
bespoke Argyle Pink Diamonds jewellery<br />
and collectibles for more than 25 years.<br />
He has designed tiaras, collectible coins<br />
and numerous exclusive designs in creative<br />
collaboration with Mints, manufacturers and<br />
luxury diamond jewellery houses. His most<br />
recent collaboration brings together Muzo<br />
Emeralds and Argyle Pink Diamonds in a fusion<br />
of colour and creativity.<br />
John Glajz said, “I am delighted to be<br />
appointed an Icon Partner and continue a<br />
long association<br />
with the Argyle Pink<br />
Diamonds brand.<br />
The mesmerising<br />
beauty of an Argyle<br />
Pink Diamond, its<br />
beautiful birthplace,<br />
its status and<br />
mystique will<br />
continue to be<br />
upheld through the<br />
program to ensure<br />
the brand integrity<br />
of the one true<br />
source of rare pink<br />
diamonds.”<br />
The Icon Partner<br />
program is part<br />
of a strategy<br />
designed to protect<br />
the provenance<br />
of Argyle Pink<br />
Diamonds. Rio Tinto<br />
is also introducing<br />
a certification service, a concierge trading<br />
platform for certified Argyle Pink Diamonds,<br />
a new Beyond Rare Tender platform for<br />
special sales events and a number of strategic<br />
collections and collaborations involving<br />
existing inventory and the secondary market.<br />
The secondary market for Argyle Pink<br />
Diamonds comprises almost forty years of<br />
rare polished pink diamonds, together with<br />
heirloom pieces of jewellery, collectibles<br />
and objets. This market requires careful<br />
management to preserve the precious<br />
provenance of Argyle Pink Diamonds and<br />
continue the legacy of careful custody that<br />
underscores its rarity.<br />
“This is the start of a new chapter for Argyle<br />
Pink Diamonds, to ensure they maintain their<br />
value and investment potential as a finite,<br />
unrepeatable natural resource and achieve<br />
the status of outstanding heritage diamonds,”<br />
Rio Tinto Minerals chief executive Sinead<br />
Kaufman said.<br />
“Rio Tinto is proud to continue to manage the<br />
legacy of this uniquely Western Australian<br />
product and I pay tribute to the unrivalled<br />
craftsmanship and deep engagement of all<br />
our customers and partners who have been,<br />
and continue to be, instrumental in creating<br />
the global phenomenon that is Argyle Pink<br />
Diamonds.”<br />
20<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
LET'S TALK<br />
WEBINAR SERIES<br />
P o i g n a n c e o f P e a r l s<br />
7pm AEST<br />
Tuesday | August<br />
2<br />
The Pearl. Sweet simplicity.<br />
Cultivated in pristinely maintained marine biospheres and among one of the few truly<br />
sustainable gem varieties in existence. Join us to hear from industry experts covering a brief<br />
history of pearling in Australia, how pearls are trending with consumers and global marketing<br />
efforts, the intricates of farming and the impact of technology.<br />
We welcome all members of the trade to join us.<br />
REGISTER TODAY | JAA.COM.AU/TALK<br />
Proudly brought to you by the Jewellers Association of Australia
ADVERTISING<br />
PALLOYS POINTS<br />
Tolga Capanoglu,<br />
Sales Manager for Livadi<br />
Palloys<br />
LIVADI CREATES<br />
DREAMS<br />
Offering the largest range of commitment and<br />
fashion rings for both men and women, Livadi<br />
brings together the art of jewellery and the<br />
most modern technology to help bring our<br />
clients' dream designs to life. We offer vast<br />
ranges of ready-made wedding bands and<br />
rings for men, women and couples, as well as<br />
a top-of-the-line, cutting-edge 3D configurator<br />
that can generate renders of an entirely<br />
unique design that clients can tweak and<br />
create within our online software.<br />
In an era of mass production, Livadi stands<br />
resolutely defiant in our uncompromising<br />
focus on luxury, exclusivity and quality. Every<br />
Livadi wedding band is the best of its kind,<br />
while also providing a level of customisation<br />
that is unmatched in the market. All Livadi<br />
creations are expertly hand-finished; as<br />
miniature works of art, each piece is created<br />
by masters in their craft. Our jewellers are<br />
proud to create objects of unique beauty to<br />
be enjoyed beyond lifetimes by their wearer<br />
and generations to come. Livadi rings are<br />
fashioned from a single piece of precious<br />
metal, a symbol of true, unending love. It<br />
is this design ethos that makes every Livadi<br />
piece so incredibly special.<br />
The future is now with Livadi. Our cuttingedge,<br />
revolutionary 3D Ring configurator<br />
is the future of our industry. Whether you<br />
want a classic, modern, or exclusive look,<br />
our configurator provides you with countless<br />
options to design your rings so that they are<br />
as unique as your love story already is. We<br />
offer a variety of alloys, gem placements and<br />
a vast range of other specifications that can<br />
truly make your designs entirely your own,<br />
with Livadi’s exclusive offer of 100 per cent<br />
Australian and widely accredited gold. You can<br />
discover your creativity and design your own<br />
personalised dream rings or configure one of<br />
our ready-made designs within minutes.<br />
With the Livadi configurator, the opportunities<br />
for creating your dream rings are limitless.<br />
You can generate designs with your loved<br />
ones right by your side, or you can render<br />
several different options to consult with your<br />
local jeweller before committing to any one<br />
of them. Livadi is here to realise the dream<br />
designs for you and your loved one.<br />
Our manufacturing capacity and state-of-theart<br />
technology allow Livadi to accommodate<br />
any individual design needs. Livadi offers an<br />
experience with the ring configuration in<br />
real-time 3D, to create your special, individual<br />
ring with select diamonds and personalised<br />
engravings. We can offer an exclusive 7 to<br />
10 day delivery time on your specialised<br />
creations, so that you can have your special<br />
moments in the timeline that suits you and<br />
your loved ones.<br />
We know how important trust is when<br />
designing something as special as a wedding<br />
band or an engagement ring. The Livadi<br />
website is designed to drive customers to their<br />
preferred, trusted and authorised stockists.<br />
You can now design the exact ring you desire<br />
and order your rings from a stockist that<br />
you can trust, as our new website directs<br />
22<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
customers to select their preferred stockist while creating a login to<br />
start designing their dream rings in the Livadi configurator.<br />
With Livadi, clients no longer need to rely on searching for the<br />
right style, as they can design it themselves, making the process<br />
an incredibly fun, exclusive, and luxurious experience. Moreover,<br />
they can order their rings exclusively from the jeweller, rather than<br />
online, as it is essential that the rings fit. By facilitating this, we can<br />
mitigate the stress of a ring potentially not fitting and make the<br />
Livadi experience a relaxed, client-focused one.<br />
All Livadi products are crafted with<br />
an emphasis on sustainability and<br />
responsibility, made from certified<br />
and responsibly sourced materials.<br />
The gold used in the production<br />
of Livadi creations is 100 per cent<br />
Australian gold and sourced from<br />
our sister company ABC Refinery,<br />
Australia’s only independent refiner<br />
accredited by the London Bullion<br />
Market Association (LBMA), the<br />
Shanghai Gold Exchange (SGE) and COMEX. As a result of those<br />
accreditations, all precious metals used at Livadi are fully compliant<br />
with worldwide standards and conflict-free. It is this commitment<br />
that makes a Livadi creation not only the best of its kind but also<br />
the most socially responsible so that clients can wear their creations<br />
with pride.<br />
Livadi has the power to bring so much joy to you and your loved<br />
ones, through a luxury, tailored design experience that will<br />
guarantee the perfect worn symbol of the eternal love that binds<br />
people together. Between our high-tech configurator, the vast<br />
range of ready-made rings and our team of expert consultants and<br />
jewellers, as well as the promise of 100 per cent Australian Gold,<br />
Livadi clients can indulge in the specialised experience of creating<br />
and receiving a Livadi ring.<br />
For further information:<br />
OSJAG PTY LTD PO Box 4420 North Rocks NSW 2151<br />
+612 9630 6619 admin@osjag.com www.osjag.com
Opals Australia<br />
Australia's<br />
National Gemstone<br />
Opals Australia<br />
Madsen Opals<br />
True Blue Opals<br />
24<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
By Stefan Juengling<br />
INSIGHT INTO OUR<br />
OPAL HUNTERS<br />
While a lack of new opal finds, higher fuel prices and more regulation makes life harder for our<br />
Aussie opal miners, developments in opal mining technology ease the burden, and demand<br />
remains strong, in part due to the successful TV series Outback Opal Hunters. Speaking to 10 big<br />
names in the Australian opal industry, we find out what’s the state of our opal industry.<br />
Soft supply, hard demand<br />
Most of our contributors agreed that supply<br />
of opals has struggled to keep up with<br />
surging demand, both domestically and<br />
internationally.<br />
Opals by Steed is a<br />
Coober Pedy-based<br />
opal cutter and<br />
wholesaler which<br />
sources opal directly<br />
from the fields.<br />
Business owner and<br />
opal cutter Steed<br />
Opals by Steed<br />
Sutherland said that<br />
opal supply is certainly lower than the demand<br />
for gem-quality opal and continues to drop<br />
nation-wide.<br />
“With the minimal material coming out of the<br />
ground, this is also driving the prices up for<br />
rough opal along with the substantially higher<br />
costs involved for the mining process.<br />
Opals by Steed<br />
Opals by Steed<br />
“With rough opal production declining, prices<br />
are increasing for the buyer such as myself to<br />
buy rough material and the wholesale price<br />
per carat for the jewellery manufacturers/<br />
designers and opal dealers buying polished<br />
stones.”<br />
Ross Sedawie is Head of Business<br />
Management at Opal Auctions which houses<br />
the largest collection of opals on the internet.<br />
For Ross, the supply for opals has softened<br />
slightly compared to 2021, but continues to<br />
trend upwards if 2021 is excluded from the<br />
equation.<br />
“2021 was exceptionally good because of<br />
the COVID lockdowns and people purchasing<br />
more online.”<br />
Opaline Pty Ltd is a<br />
Noosa, Queenslandbased<br />
gem atelier<br />
which mines,<br />
processes and<br />
wholesales opals<br />
Opaline<br />
and coloured gemstones to manufacturers. Its<br />
director Peter Christianos said the Australian<br />
opal supply has been diminishing for at least<br />
the past decade. As for demand, he said a<br />
search for opals on Instagram would reveal<br />
that the stone has real street cred and holds<br />
currency with the world’s fashionable and<br />
emerging jewellery designers.<br />
“In short, the demand for opal remains robust.<br />
Prices have been steadily increasing, providing<br />
a decent hedge against inflation.”<br />
Sherman Opals is a 126-year-old opal<br />
wholesale and export family business headed<br />
by managing director Peter Sherman, who said<br />
the current opal supply is low, but demand has<br />
been very high.<br />
“Mostly due to the pandemic and also due<br />
to the Outback Opal Hunters TV show, both<br />
domestic and overseas viewers have all been<br />
switched on to the delights of the Australian<br />
opal.”<br />
<strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 25
Natassa Patel is<br />
Director of Gold<br />
Coast-based opal<br />
wholesalers True Blue<br />
Opals Pty Ltd, who<br />
said both the opal<br />
supply and demand<br />
appear positive from<br />
her point of view.<br />
True Blue Opals<br />
True Blue Opals<br />
“Supply has been steady though the prices<br />
have somewhat increased.”<br />
She said both domestic and international<br />
demand has increased greatly, and both<br />
national and global uncertainty has<br />
encouraged many to look into and invest in<br />
the lapidary arts.<br />
Clayton Peer is managing director of<br />
Australia’s largest commercial supplier of opal<br />
jewellery and loose Australian opals: Opals<br />
Australia. Clayton said demand has been good<br />
thanks to Australians travelling more in their<br />
own backyard.<br />
“Lighting Ridge, White Cliffs, Coober Pedy,<br />
Winton for example have an increase in visitor<br />
numbers, (so) Aussies are still tending to travel<br />
at home.”<br />
Another opal expert who lauded both the<br />
pandemic and Outback Opal Hunters as<br />
driving interest and demand in opals is<br />
Rhys Fox, assistant manager of Sunshine<br />
Coast opal cutter, supplier, and valuer<br />
Opals Down Under. Rhys said that those<br />
two factors had contributed towards a<br />
dramatic increase in the popularity and<br />
demand for opal, both domestically and<br />
internationally, particularly in the US.<br />
“America has always held a steady interest in<br />
Australian Opal, but it definitely has been back<br />
on the rise.”<br />
Lightning Ridge Opal Mines is a family<br />
owned and operated<br />
opal business in<br />
Melbourne, and<br />
director Atheka<br />
Le Seouf said the<br />
domestic market<br />
remains steady, and<br />
Lightning Ridge Opal Mines once international<br />
travel and tourism returns to pre-pandemic<br />
levels, she expects to see an increase.<br />
Opal mining remains a costly,<br />
over-regulated, tough gig<br />
Many of our respondents said that conditions<br />
on the mining fields are tough due to the<br />
weather, regulation and costs.<br />
Peter Christianos didn’t mince words when he<br />
said that opal mining has become prohibitively<br />
expensive.<br />
“Small scale artisanal miners are burdened<br />
with the same regulatory costs and<br />
compliance requirements that large<br />
corporations deal with.<br />
“Opal mining representatives are proactively<br />
collaborating with the authorities to affect<br />
policy-making outcomes that prioritise and<br />
facilitate expenditure on production at the<br />
opal fields.”<br />
Echoing similar views, Ross said conditions<br />
are becoming harder for miners who want to<br />
obtain and run an opal mine, with everything<br />
from disputes with farmers to government<br />
regulation holding up<br />
operation.<br />
Opals Australia<br />
“The Queensland state<br />
government imposed a moratorium on new<br />
small mining claims on November 25, as part<br />
of a review in its draft Queensland resources<br />
industry development plan.”<br />
Conversely, Peter Sherman said that despite<br />
a lack productive mining, conditions on the<br />
mining fields remained buoyant.<br />
“With the large volume of ‘domestic tourists’<br />
travelling around Australia, places like<br />
Lightning Ridge, Coober Pedy, Andamooka and<br />
many of the Queensland Boulder Opal fields<br />
received a good amount of visitors, hence<br />
energy and dollars into the industry.”<br />
Whilst Opals by Steed is not a mining<br />
company, Steed acknowledged that costs of<br />
everyday items can be substantially higher<br />
for his local Coober Pedy mining community,<br />
including the all-important miner’s tool:<br />
diesel.<br />
Opals by Steed<br />
26<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Celebrating 126 years of excellence<br />
Still a family-owned business.<br />
Specialising in all forms of Australian Opal,<br />
loose stones and set jewellery.<br />
Level 2, Culwulla Chambers,<br />
67 Castlereagh Street, Sydney NSW 2000<br />
T: +61 2 9233 6355<br />
E: opals@shermanopals.com.au
“These prices<br />
along with<br />
minimal help/incentives from<br />
government departments<br />
towards opal mining make the option of<br />
exploration to find new opal bearing ground<br />
and fields near impossible which is yet<br />
another reason opal production is declining<br />
rapidly.”<br />
Specifically<br />
addressing the<br />
mining fiscal<br />
situation, Natassa<br />
said that increased<br />
demand meant<br />
miners have found it<br />
easier to finance their operations.<br />
“They also have become direct sellers with the<br />
increase exposure and opportunities of the<br />
internet.”<br />
Though she acknowledged that taking on<br />
online selling in addition to mining would be<br />
difficult to maintain effectively.<br />
Boulder Opal<br />
Mines Australia<br />
Winton-based opal mining,<br />
cutting, wholesaling and<br />
jewellery designing company<br />
Boulder Opal Mines<br />
Australia is managed by<br />
co-founders John Doyle and<br />
his partner Leanne Smedley.<br />
John said there is more<br />
red tape and paperwork<br />
involved in operating an<br />
opal mining company than<br />
there was 20 years ago.<br />
However,he maintained a<br />
sunny attitude regarding<br />
conditions on the field.<br />
“Remote, hot in the summer, dusty…<br />
In saying that: we love it.”<br />
Madsen Opals<br />
True Blue Opals<br />
Top technology and techniques<br />
Peter Christianos believed the adoption of<br />
new technology and techniques is paramount<br />
to the industry’s success going forward.<br />
“The use of drones for aerial interpretation<br />
and prospecting is becoming widespread...<br />
such affordable and accessible technologies<br />
give the modern miner an edge.”<br />
He also said that ground-penetrating radar<br />
systems which were once confined to<br />
universities and academia are fast becoming<br />
realistic tools that miners are actively trialling<br />
to conduct underground mapping.<br />
Madsen Opals Pty<br />
Ltd is a Sydneybased<br />
opal miner,<br />
wholesaler and<br />
exporter operating<br />
since 1982. Its<br />
director Erik<br />
Madsen said that<br />
Madsen Opals<br />
unfortunately very little had changed in mining<br />
techniques over the past few years. From<br />
his perspective, he and his mining partner<br />
at Lightning Ridge are the only ones trying<br />
anything new: Black Opal mining in a similar<br />
manner as large-scale coal or gold mining.<br />
“We have constructed an incline from the<br />
surface down to the opal-bearing levels and<br />
then we are tunnelling using an excavator and<br />
a large front-end loader.<br />
Sherman Opals<br />
“We are holding the roof up with roof bolts<br />
and steel mesh.”<br />
He said that by using this equipment, they can<br />
extract a large amount of opal dirt in short<br />
time, and are also able to wash the opal dirt<br />
constantly in the wash plant.<br />
“We believe it is a matter of being able to<br />
wash large amounts of potential opal dirt to<br />
be a successful producer while still keeping<br />
the cost as low as possible.”<br />
Peter Sherman said there is a constant need<br />
for upgrades to opal mining equipment<br />
and scientific research into deep earth opal<br />
exploration.<br />
To that end, John said<br />
satellite imaging has<br />
become used to spot<br />
fault lines.<br />
As for everyday<br />
mining tools, Ross<br />
said that electric<br />
lights and jack<br />
hammers have helped<br />
reduce the reliance<br />
on generators.<br />
“While they are still<br />
needed, having the<br />
ability to charge up<br />
strong LED lights<br />
overnight that<br />
last for nine hours<br />
underground have<br />
helped to reduce<br />
the reliance on<br />
generators.”<br />
Sherman Opals<br />
Lightning Ridge Opal Mines<br />
28<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
MADSEN<br />
OPALS<br />
We are a<br />
MAJOR PRODUCER OF<br />
BLACK AND BOULDER OPALS<br />
from our own mines<br />
Winton Boulder Opals from<br />
our open cut mine (above)<br />
Lightning Ridge Black Opals<br />
and underground mine<br />
Exhibiting at the Gold Coast Show<br />
QT Gold Coast, 4 - 5 August, <strong>2022</strong>. Booth: 10 & 11<br />
Address: 263 Sussex Street, Sydney NSW 2000<br />
Telephone: 02 9267 8680 Mobile: 0417 894 685<br />
Email: madsen@opals.net<br />
MADSEN OPALS PTY LTD
Opals Down Under<br />
“For this reason I can see the opal mining<br />
sector appealing to these people and believe<br />
that there will be a small procession of ‘new<br />
chum’ miners with dollar signs in their eyes<br />
after watching Outback Opal Hunters.”<br />
Clayton agreed that Outback Opal Hunters<br />
has caused an increased number of people<br />
wanting to come mining for opal.<br />
Where’s the next generation of opal<br />
miners?<br />
John said that he doesn’t see younger people<br />
coming into the mining side of opals, which is<br />
concerning for the industry.<br />
“However, we’ve noticed, in recent years the<br />
younger people coming into the industry are<br />
the tech-savvy buyers and sellers with high<br />
internet marketing skills.”<br />
From Ross’ perspective, the number of young<br />
miners entering the mining department is<br />
increasing but very slowly.<br />
“In Coober Pedy for example, many young<br />
miners would prefer to work down the road<br />
in the copper mines and make a high wage,<br />
rather than try to find a pocket of opal.<br />
“Having said that though, there are<br />
young miners who have started mining<br />
who are creating huge followings on<br />
social media like Tik Tok…almost<br />
glorifying being an opal miner,<br />
which is great for the industry.”<br />
Steed regarded the dearth<br />
of new talent coming in<br />
as possibly one of the opal<br />
industry’s biggest killers.<br />
“Whist there are many<br />
industrious young miners working<br />
hard and making it their living, iron ore<br />
mines near Coober Pedy have taken many<br />
who may have followed in their father’s<br />
footsteps where they are guaranteed a solid<br />
pay cheque.”<br />
Opals Australia<br />
Sherman Opals<br />
He said people can’t blame miners foregoing<br />
opal mining given the tough conditions and<br />
lack of guaranteed regular pay.<br />
An opal rush is now overdue across all<br />
our nation’s opal fields according to Peter<br />
Christianos.<br />
“Nonetheless there is a steady trickle of new<br />
entrants across all of the opal fields: both<br />
younger miners and older retirees who are<br />
keen for the lifestyle and to ‘have a go’.<br />
“Many talented crews whose members have<br />
other professions are mining on a part-time<br />
basis alternating shifts with their partners.”<br />
For Erik, the costs and risks are what’s making<br />
it difficult to attract new young people into<br />
the industry.<br />
“There are some younger miners from<br />
family to form the next generation of<br />
miners but not a very large amount.<br />
“Another reason is that in general<br />
there are less and less miners…<br />
older miners are dying and then<br />
there are very few new young<br />
people starting to mine.”<br />
Peter Sherman said there are<br />
some young miners entering<br />
the system, but too few for<br />
long-term supply and production.<br />
However, many exiting the cities for a<br />
lifestyle change in the country over the past<br />
few years, which may bode well for mining’s<br />
future labour force.<br />
When it comes to mined opals,<br />
nothing goes to waste<br />
When asked about what happens to the<br />
majority of the mined opals that aren’t gem<br />
quality, the overwhelming consensus is that<br />
every stone including low-quality potch<br />
will have a use, and virtually nothing gets<br />
discarded.<br />
Peter Sherman estimated that<br />
only two or three per cent<br />
of opals mined are of the<br />
highest gem quality, but<br />
nonetheless said most opals<br />
are considered precious<br />
gems to the finder, buyer, and<br />
wearer.<br />
“The great thing about opal<br />
is that all stones have their<br />
charm and appeal (hence in<br />
their own way they are still<br />
gems).”<br />
He said that during<br />
lockdowns, there was huge<br />
demand from home hobby<br />
cutters, which meant<br />
large portions of what is<br />
Madsen Opals normally ‘reject’ or low-quality<br />
opal sold extremely well.<br />
“To these home hobbyists every stone they<br />
cut is a ‘gem’.”<br />
Similarly, John said that approximately five<br />
per cent of mined opals are gem quality, and<br />
that while the next quality down used to be<br />
discarded opals, they have found a use and<br />
30<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
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ecome popular. For Boulder Opals, he said<br />
the only stones discarded are the lowest-grade<br />
potch, along with crazed and cracked opal.<br />
For Atheka, there really isn’t any such a thing<br />
as a reject opal.<br />
“If an opal has colour in it, then it can be used<br />
in lower quality jewellery, or for triplet and<br />
doublet manufacture.”<br />
Natassa estimates only 10 per cent of opals<br />
are gem-quality, and her team works hard to<br />
think of innovative ways to use the other 90<br />
per cent.<br />
“For example, we use the ironstone matrix<br />
from the Boulder Opal fields to make dye<br />
where we use other gemstones as the<br />
coloured additions of the number dots.<br />
“We also invest heavily in making opal beads<br />
from the low-grade potch and colour of all<br />
opal, combining it with either a few gemgrade<br />
opal and or other coloured stones in<br />
bracelets, lariats and such.”<br />
The great thing about the internet, is that<br />
for companies like Opal Auctions, it opens<br />
all types of opal to the market. Ross said this<br />
meant that stones below gem-quality that<br />
would have been discarded in the pre-2000s<br />
are attracting interest, including cheap rough<br />
for cutting practice, and even opal chips in fish<br />
tanks.<br />
“This means that no opal goes to waste…we<br />
have even had people who strictly wanted<br />
black opal potch for use in an art exhibit!”<br />
Peter Christianos considers only five per cent<br />
of opals and other gem-quality coloured<br />
stones to be top quality.<br />
“Super-gems make up less than one per cent,<br />
gems are five per cent, and commercial gems<br />
are 10 to 25 per cent.<br />
“This top quartile is set in precious metal and<br />
constitutes fine jewellery.”<br />
Like his counterparts, this doesn’t mean he<br />
considers the remaining 75 per cent rejects.<br />
“There are various grades of ornamental<br />
materials which are utilised for fashion<br />
jewellery, doublets, triplets, beads, specimens,<br />
carvings, souvenirs, amulets, inlays etc.”<br />
The Outback Opal Hunters effect<br />
There’s no denying Discovery Channel’s<br />
Outback Opal Hunters did wonders to thrust<br />
Australian opals and opal mining not just onto<br />
the national but world stage. The exploits of<br />
the series’ opal miners across South Australia,<br />
Queensland, New South Wales, and Western<br />
Australia captured<br />
the imaginations of<br />
viewers worldwide,<br />
and made many<br />
hungry for opals.<br />
Opal Auctions<br />
Peter Christianos<br />
said the show had<br />
definitely raised<br />
awareness of<br />
the rarity of our<br />
national gemstone.<br />
“On the one hand the contrived and shallow<br />
plots (pun intended) of the program make<br />
me cringe as reality is in every way more<br />
intriguing.<br />
“But on the other<br />
hand, it is<br />
undeniably<br />
exciting to see<br />
my colleagues<br />
up in lights<br />
as ‘film star’<br />
celebrities.”<br />
Opal Auctions<br />
He said the series had become a major talking<br />
point which brought visitors back to the opal<br />
towns while also stimulating sales locally and<br />
abroad.<br />
Similarly, Steed regarded the show as having<br />
done huge things for the opal industry<br />
including creating desire to come to Coober<br />
Pedy, Lightning Ridge and other regions to try<br />
their hand at opal mining.<br />
“Millions of people watch the show and has<br />
shown many the beauty of opal and what It<br />
can achieve as well as the extreme challenge<br />
this gem offers to miners and cutters.”<br />
Outback Opal Hunters has definitely whet the<br />
appetite of amateur collectors and lapidarists,<br />
according to Rhys, having seen more clients<br />
contact them or come into Opals Down Under,<br />
either to learn more about our national gem<br />
or start their own opal journey.<br />
“It’s great for the industry to see this level of<br />
interest.”<br />
Conversely, Ross said that feedback from<br />
Opal Auctions’ buyers indicates that the show<br />
represents too much hardship and fabricated<br />
stories, without focusing on the opals.<br />
“(the) feedback we get is that show does not<br />
educate people at all about opal (since<br />
they almost never find any!)”<br />
Peter Sherman said Outback<br />
Opal Hunters definitely<br />
opened the eyes of<br />
Australians and indeed the<br />
world to this amazing and<br />
fascinating gem.<br />
Boulder Opal Mines Australia<br />
Opals Australia<br />
32<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
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36<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
By Stefan Juengling<br />
A SHOWCASE OF OUR<br />
IRIDESCENT OPAL INDUSTRY<br />
Re-emerging after a 2-year COVID-induced hibernation, The Opal Trail has returned this year to put<br />
on a gem bash like no other. With input from eight major players in Australia’s opal industry, we<br />
discuss what this collection of shows has to offer for guests and exhibitors.<br />
Each year, the most remote locations in<br />
Australia’s outback come alive for a multishow<br />
opal extravaganza.<br />
The Opal Trail, otherwise known as The<br />
Australian Opal Show Circuit, combines a<br />
series of previously unrelated shows that run<br />
from April until August every year, allowing<br />
exhibitors and guests alike to enjoy the<br />
shows without enduring the harsher hot<br />
temperatures later in the year.<br />
Mapping the trail…<br />
The first show on the Trail was The Coober<br />
Pedy Gem Trade Show in South Australia, held<br />
on April 16 and 17. Be sure to mark this show<br />
on your calendars and planners for next year<br />
as it continues to build its reputation as one of<br />
Australia’s pre-eminent opal trade shows.<br />
The Winton Opal Trade Show on <strong>July</strong> 8 and<br />
9 is an annual trade show in Winton, central<br />
Queensland. Each year this event also hosts<br />
the Boulder Opal <strong>Jewellery</strong> Design Awards,<br />
and the Opal Inspired Dress Design Awards.<br />
This is followed by<br />
the Yowah Opal<br />
Festival on <strong>July</strong> 15<br />
to 17 in Yowah,<br />
West Queensland,<br />
which combines<br />
Boulder Opal Mines Australia a showcase of<br />
Yowah opal, music, entertainment and food.<br />
The next stop is across the border at the<br />
Lightning Ridge Opal Festival in northwestern<br />
New South Wales. This four-day<br />
event from <strong>July</strong> 27 to 30 attracts miners,<br />
jewellers, wholesalers and opal trade from<br />
across Australia. Special events include the<br />
Opal Queen Ball, Opal & Gem Expo, and The<br />
International Opal <strong>Jewellery</strong> Design Awards.<br />
Trading at the LIghtning Ridge Opal Festival<br />
Boulder Opal Mines Australia<br />
an annual trade event hosted at the Surfer’s<br />
Paradise QT resort.<br />
The final show is the Gemfields Festival in<br />
the central Queensland sapphire fields from<br />
August 6 to 13. This event, formerly known<br />
as Gemfest, is one of the most popular<br />
celebrations of sapphires and gems in<br />
Australia.<br />
Boulder Opal Mines Australia<br />
The Trail then<br />
heads back to<br />
Queensland for<br />
the Australian<br />
Opal Exhibition<br />
on the Gold<br />
Coast on August<br />
4 and 5, which is<br />
Boulder Opal Mines Australia<br />
Bigger and better every year<br />
Naturally some shows have experienced<br />
COVID-cancellations over the past two years,<br />
but many of our contributors reported<br />
continued growth year-over-year, with some<br />
shows even able to continue during COVID<br />
thanks to their remote locations.<br />
<strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 37
Opal Auctions<br />
Opaline<br />
Peter Christianos is director of Opaline Pty<br />
Ltd, a south-coastal Queensland-based<br />
gem atelier which mines, processes and<br />
wholesales opals and coloured gemstones to<br />
manufacturers. Peter said The Opal Trail has<br />
steadily developed and grown over the years,<br />
and each season may highlight one location<br />
above another due to new finds or increased<br />
attendance.<br />
“Winton is perhaps the most remote location<br />
for visitors to attend.<br />
“Due to the<br />
outback tourism<br />
boom during<br />
COVID, Winton<br />
was able to<br />
capitalize,<br />
hosting not one<br />
but two shows<br />
per annum over the last two years whilst<br />
other shows were cancelled.”<br />
Opaline<br />
He said The Opal Trail is always an exciting<br />
affair with many opal pundits and crew going<br />
the full circuit, culminating in the Gold Coast<br />
Opal Exhibition (before Gemfields Festival).<br />
Opal Auctions houses the<br />
largest collection of opals<br />
on the internet, and Head of<br />
Business Management Ross<br />
Sedawie lauded The Opal<br />
Trail as a great initiative,<br />
having seen many people<br />
travel across Australia for it<br />
during COVID.<br />
“On two occasions when<br />
we travelled to Coober<br />
Pedy and to Winton, it was<br />
obvious that The Opal Trail<br />
was having an effect because<br />
the accommodation and car<br />
rentals for those areas was<br />
completely booked out.<br />
“In all of our years travelling out to these areas<br />
we have never seen it busier.”<br />
John Doyle and his partner Leanne Smedley<br />
are co-founders of Boulder Opal Mines<br />
Australia, established 25 years ago as a<br />
Winton-based opal miner, cutter, jewellery<br />
designer and wholesaler. John agreed that the<br />
opal shows had grown, particularly noticing<br />
the growth and success of their local Winton<br />
show over the past 7 years.<br />
“Even though Winton is quite a distance to<br />
travel from the major centres, it now attracts<br />
opal buyers from all<br />
over the world.<br />
“They are looking to<br />
purchase direct from<br />
the source.”<br />
Sydney-based business<br />
Madsen Opals Pty Ltd<br />
has been mining, wholesaling and exporting<br />
opals since 1982, and director Erik Madsen<br />
was more measured in his expectations for the<br />
remaining Opal Trail shows.<br />
Madsen Opals<br />
“Prior to COVID, the Opal Trail shows were<br />
growing, however, everything was put on hold<br />
during the pandemic.<br />
Opal Auctions<br />
38<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
The Opal Trail<br />
Madsen Opals<br />
16-17 April<br />
Coober Pedy Gem Trade Show, SA<br />
8-9 <strong>July</strong><br />
Winton Opal Trade Show, QLD<br />
Boulder Opal <strong>Jewellery</strong> Design Awards<br />
Opal Inspired Dress Design Awards<br />
15-17 <strong>July</strong><br />
Yowah Opal Festival, QLD<br />
27-30 <strong>July</strong><br />
Lightning Ridge Opal Festival, NSW<br />
Opal Queen Ball<br />
Opal and Gem Expo<br />
International Opal <strong>Jewellery</strong> Design Awards<br />
4-5 August<br />
Australian Opal Exhibition, QLD<br />
6-13 August<br />
Gemfields Festival, QLD<br />
Opals Australia<br />
abn 61 101 407 514<br />
Wholesale<br />
Opals, Fossils<br />
& Gemstones<br />
Sally 0419 785 454 Natassa 0412 657 155<br />
trueblueopals@gmail.com<br />
25 Surfers Ave, Mermaid Waters QLD 4218 Australia
“It is hard to predict what this year’s shows<br />
will be like…I think there will be less exhibitors<br />
and less customers due to a downturn in<br />
production.”<br />
Established in 1896<br />
by Ernest Gregory<br />
Sherman, Sherman<br />
Opals is a Sydneybased<br />
opal wholesaler<br />
and exporter headed<br />
by managing director<br />
Sherman Opals<br />
Peter Gregory Sherman, eldest grandson of<br />
Ernest. Peter hailed The Opal Trail as a good<br />
coordination between individual state opal<br />
associations which has led many buyers,<br />
dealers, miners and tourists to follow said trail.<br />
The Opal Trail is old news for most buyers and<br />
sellers, according to Natassa Patel, Director of<br />
Gold Coast-based opal wholesalers True Blue<br />
Opals Pty Ltd.<br />
“What I would say is that media exposure<br />
in local and global platforms has increased<br />
attendance if not queries about Australian<br />
opal in general.<br />
“I would say it is more about supporting the<br />
industry as a whole and networking, though<br />
we don’t have any complaints about the sales<br />
figures.”<br />
Who’s exhibiting where?<br />
Opals by Steed is a Coober Pedy-based opal<br />
cutter and wholesaler who will be a first-time<br />
exhibiter at this year’s Opal Trail. Business<br />
owner and opal cutter Steed Sutherland said<br />
he will be exhibiting at Lightning Ridge and the<br />
Gold Coast Opal Exhibition.<br />
“I will be exhibiting my cut and polished<br />
stones as well as fossils and rough opal from<br />
Lightning Ridge, Andamooka, White Cliffs and<br />
Coober Pedy.”<br />
Boulder Opal Mines Australia<br />
John said that Boulder Opal Mines Australia<br />
will be displaying their rough boulder opal, cut<br />
stones and jewellery at the Winton, Yowah,<br />
Lightning Ridge shows, and the Australia Opal<br />
Exhibition on the Gold Coast. He said he’s<br />
been exhibiting at all these shows for more<br />
than 12 years, found success with them, and<br />
has built a regular clientele.<br />
Sherman Opals has regularly featured<br />
at Coober Pedy’s Gem Trade Show, the<br />
Lightning Ridge Festival, and Gold Coast’s<br />
Opal Exhibition, and Peter Sherman said they<br />
plan to visit many more in the coming years.<br />
Sherman Opals will be promoting all varieties<br />
of Australian opal, both in loose, unset form,<br />
and also in gold and silver jewellery.<br />
Having been a regular exhibitor and visitor at<br />
many of the shows for almost two decades,<br />
Peter Christianos described The Opal Trail as<br />
“always an exciting adventure”.<br />
Sherman Opals<br />
“(I’m) at Winton, Lightning Ridge and Gold<br />
Coast most years, and I’m always threatening<br />
to get to Yowah, but haven’t made it for the<br />
show there yet!<br />
Opaline<br />
“The isolated opal<br />
community is a truly<br />
authentic setting for<br />
bush camaraderie!”<br />
He said Opaline’s<br />
biggest shows ever<br />
were prior to the<br />
GFC, and in 2009.<br />
“The turnover has always been varied across<br />
the different shows – so it’s worth attending<br />
all of them as one never knows where the<br />
biggest crowds or bonanza will turn up!”<br />
Opaline will be showcasing their rough and<br />
faced Boulder<br />
Opal, fine<br />
finished Black,<br />
Boulder and<br />
crystal opal<br />
cabochons,<br />
beads, artifacts<br />
and carvings.<br />
Natassa said<br />
that True Blue<br />
Opals Pty<br />
Ltd will be<br />
exhibiting at the Lightning Ridge Opal Festival<br />
and the Gold Coast Opal Exhibition.<br />
“We show everything from investment<br />
collector stones to beads to rough and many<br />
cut stones.<br />
“We also have carvings and opal specimens.”<br />
True Blue Opals<br />
She said that they along with David Darby<br />
from the Brandy Gully Mining team will also<br />
be displaying their opals that were featured in<br />
the Outback Opal Hunters at the Yowah Opal<br />
Festival.<br />
40<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
See us at the Australian Opal Exhibition<br />
QT Gold Coast<br />
4-5 August 2021<br />
STAND 10-11<br />
02 9266 0636 | enquiries@ikecho.com.au
Erik said that he only exhibits at the Gold<br />
Coast Opal Exhibition as it has been very<br />
successful for Madsen Opals in the past.<br />
“We present and sell our Black and Boulder<br />
Opals at the Gold Coast Show.”<br />
In addition, while the Lightning Ridge show<br />
is on, Erik will be inviting select customers to<br />
come view the stock at their new Lightning<br />
Ridge premises.<br />
Another business that will feature exclusively<br />
at the Gold Coast Australian Opal Exhibition<br />
is Opals Australia, which is Australia’s<br />
commercial<br />
supplier of opal<br />
jewellery in gold,<br />
silver and loose<br />
Australian opals.<br />
Operations Manager<br />
Clayton Peer said<br />
they’ve chosen to<br />
feature only at the<br />
Australian Opal<br />
Exhibition because<br />
it’s a trade only<br />
show, whereas the<br />
others are open to the general public.<br />
True Blue Opals<br />
“This show will be a good show –all Opals<br />
Australia clients are attending and they are<br />
looking forward to attending.”<br />
Opals Australia will be promoting their opal<br />
jewellery in gold and silver, loose stones<br />
including Light Opal from Coober Pedy, along<br />
with doublets and Black Opal.<br />
Ross said that his team will be attending at<br />
most of shows along the trail, but not as<br />
representatives of Opal Auctions.<br />
“We more so support our sellers with booths<br />
and advertising where we can.”<br />
When asked what products he will be<br />
promoting at the shows, his answer was<br />
simply, “everything opal.”<br />
“It is our national gemstone, and yet many<br />
Australians are not aware of it.<br />
“Black Opal needs to be promoted to<br />
Australians more…plus the beauty of Boulder<br />
Opal which has really come into its own as an<br />
earthy and affordable opal.”<br />
Plenty to do, see, buy and sell<br />
Lightning Ridge mining<br />
Madsen Opals<br />
Peter Christianos said the shows are important<br />
for Opaline because they get to network on<br />
a broader level and discuss universal issues<br />
affecting the Australian opal industry.<br />
“At the shows we are keen to exhibit our<br />
new products, make new business, source<br />
materials and service our clients.<br />
“The opal jewellery competitions at Winton<br />
and Lightning Ridge are a major attraction<br />
and glamorous affairs which coincide with the<br />
expos.”<br />
Peter Sherman said that Sherman Opals<br />
attend these shows to catch up with clients,<br />
miners, and dealers to both buy and promote<br />
Australian opal as well as sell their own<br />
product at selected shows.<br />
On a similar note, Clayton said that Opals<br />
Australia are looking forward to reconnecting.<br />
“A number of clients have not purchased our<br />
products since the COVID pandemic.”<br />
Showing support for the industry is Natassa’s<br />
main priority when True Blue Opals features at<br />
opal shows.<br />
“To show a united front with all parties in our<br />
gem of an industry is the only way to lead<br />
to potential clients from around the world<br />
choosing an Australian opal over any other<br />
stone.”<br />
While not exhibiting at any of the shows, Ross<br />
said that Opal Auctions will be looking forward<br />
to networking, discussing the industry, and<br />
trying to onboard new sellers onto their<br />
platform so sellers can access the thousands<br />
of visitors that Opal Auctions have on their<br />
website every month.<br />
John said that he and his partner Leanne are<br />
looking forward to seeing everyone from both<br />
overseas and within Australia, as many of the<br />
opal shows were cancelled the past couple of<br />
years.<br />
Opals by Steed<br />
“Yes, we are looking<br />
forward to catching<br />
up with everyone:<br />
new retailers,<br />
existing clients,<br />
networking and all<br />
our friends from the<br />
industry.”<br />
First-time exhibitor<br />
Steed said he’s<br />
looking forward to<br />
meeting the broader<br />
opal community for<br />
the first time, and to<br />
be able to explain his<br />
gems: why they were<br />
cut the way they<br />
were, what field they<br />
came from and why<br />
they’re that price.<br />
“Selling online is great and, for much of the<br />
time, is the only way international buyers can<br />
get their hands on the gem, but opal can be<br />
very personable and the best way to buy is in<br />
person with someone you can trust.”<br />
42<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Do you have what it takes<br />
to be an opal hunter?<br />
It takes a special breed of gem-lover to<br />
prise Australia's beautiful opals from the<br />
earth and to daily face the sublime and<br />
the downright terrifying! And this utterly<br />
freaked out magazine editor says thank<br />
you! Coz you're not getting me out there<br />
now. What the #$%& is that??? →<br />
Thank you to Opaline for the amazing<br />
photos and the heart failure.
THE QUEEN OF GEMS<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> and Design Awards<br />
Organised by the Queensland Boulder Opal Association (QBOA),<br />
the Queen of Gems <strong>Jewellery</strong> and Design awards will be held at the<br />
Waltzing Matilda Museum in Winton this <strong>July</strong>.<br />
The Queen of Gems <strong>Jewellery</strong> and Design awards held its inaugural event<br />
in 2006, as an initiative of Winton local business owner, Mary Pearce.<br />
The first event included a Fashion category of evening wear, and an open<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> category, with entrants from across Australia showcasing both the<br />
Queensland Boulder Opal in all its splendour, and the creativity of their design<br />
and manufacture. Since then, the annual competition has increased to receive<br />
entries from Australia-wide and internationally.<br />
The QBOA offers a forum for talented jewellery designers and makers with the<br />
aim of stimulating the creativity of the contemporary Queensland boulder<br />
opal. The competition aims at showcasing the modern opal jewel through the<br />
limitless creative energies of our designers/jewellers – avant-garde ideas and<br />
exclusive designs are a must.<br />
44<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
It promotes boulder opals in general and the QBOA<br />
as a “centre of excellence” in particular.<br />
The competition is open to professional and nonprofessional<br />
designers, students, graduates, teachers,<br />
jewellers, goldsmiths, etc.<br />
The jewellery design awards focus foremost on the<br />
originality with which boulder opal is presented,<br />
followed by the craftsmanship of the manufacture,<br />
and finally the wearability, and the creative use of<br />
opals.<br />
Past awards have focused on handmade jewellery,<br />
matching the artisan jeweller to the artisan opal<br />
cutter – a meeting of skills allowing our Queensland<br />
boulder opal to shine in its full glory. With new<br />
techniques in jewellery manufacture, this year’s new<br />
Open category clears the way for new styles in the<br />
design, of both jewellery and objects, with the use of<br />
CAD or casting techniques allowed.<br />
This year’s winners will be announced on 9 <strong>July</strong> in Winton as part<br />
of the Opal Trail and the opal festivities in Winton, including the<br />
QBOA Opal Trade Fair.<br />
Here are some winning pieces from previous years. Designers,<br />
put these awards in your calendars for next year!<br />
Opposite: The Heart of the Reef, by Robyn Carmicheal, 2021<br />
Commended People’s Choice Award.<br />
From top: Reef Glow, by Adrian Hogan, 2021 Winner Emerging<br />
Jewellers Category<br />
Peacock, by Angela Hampton, 2021 Highly Commended<br />
People’s Choice Award<br />
Renewal, by Rita Williams, 2021 Winner People’s Choice Award<br />
Paradise Blue, by Angela Hampton, 2019 Winner of Professional<br />
Jeweller and People Choice categories.<br />
<strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 45
By Cheryl D. Harty<br />
BESPOKE FINE AUSTRALIAN OPAL<br />
JEWELLERY COLLECTION THAT STARTS<br />
WITH SUSTAINABLE MINING<br />
Australian fine opal jewellery company, Opal Minded, vertically integrated throughout the<br />
entire mine to end-user process, adopts a sustainable approach in its mining operation. The<br />
family company is helmed by second generation miner, John Bernard and his wife, Dr Renata<br />
Bernard, who designs and gives creative direction for all pieces in the Opal Minded range.<br />
Designer and Creative director, Dr<br />
Bernard first arrived in Australia from<br />
Eastern Europe in 1994 but her career<br />
as an academic lecturer would take a different<br />
path after she met John, who founded Sydneybased<br />
Opal Minded in 1989. He was following<br />
in the tradition started by his father who was<br />
the first in the family to become involved in<br />
opal mining and trading.<br />
An ambitious adventurer, John Senior,<br />
deserted from a British Merchant ship in<br />
Fremantle in 1948, and set out for the<br />
Australian Outback. Mining for gold, nickel,<br />
chrysoprase and other metals and minerals<br />
in the rugged outback, he discovered opals<br />
in Coober Pedy in the 1960’s. Enchanted by<br />
the rainbow gem, he moved his young wife<br />
and family from their family-run carnation<br />
farm near Canberra to a dug-out in Coober<br />
Pedy. John Senior then amassed the largest<br />
collection of Australian opals and Aboriginal<br />
artefacts known at the time while his wife<br />
became the best boulder opal cutter of her<br />
time, as the family finally settled in the opal<br />
fields of Quilpie in Queensland.<br />
His son, John Bernard oversees the running<br />
of Opal Minded’s remote, artisanal, open pit<br />
mine in Jundah-Opalville in Queensland.<br />
At first, Dr Bernard was disinterested in her<br />
future husband’s involvement with opals,<br />
seeing them as little more than tourist<br />
souvenirs. This changed when one of his<br />
close friends visited them during the first<br />
year of their relationship, bringing with him<br />
several parcels of outstanding opal. “I would<br />
never forget these gems. I was absolutely<br />
mesmerised and turned into an opal magpie. I<br />
was hooked for life,” she recalled.<br />
Focusing on her lecturing and research career,<br />
Dr Bernard kept her enjoyment of opals to<br />
herself, until three years later when she was<br />
expecting her first child. With more time on<br />
her hands, she started to regularly drop into<br />
the Opal Minded store at The Rocks, Sydney<br />
and began contributing to the store while on<br />
maternity leave. Step by step she began to be<br />
fully immersed into the world of Australian<br />
opals.<br />
46<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Dr Bernard first focused on learning the<br />
business ropes to help steer Opal Minded<br />
out of the global economic crisis that had<br />
begun. She then moved to formalise her<br />
understanding of gemmology and jewellery<br />
design. In 2014 she received a “Business<br />
Leader” award from the NSW Business<br />
Chamber.<br />
“I was already designing and giving creative<br />
direction for all our new pieces of jewellery,<br />
so this was taking my practice to new depths.<br />
Essentially, in short, I fell in love with a man,<br />
who was in love with the gem. I doubled my<br />
passions,” she said.<br />
Established in 1989 by John Bernard in its<br />
current permutation, Opal Minded comprises<br />
the mine at Jundah-Opalville and a design<br />
studio based in The Dymock’s Building on<br />
George Street, Sydney. A retail boutique is<br />
located in the historic precinct of The Rocks.<br />
“The studio is more substantial in size and<br />
types of activities and is our behind-thescenes<br />
space, where most of our team work,<br />
including two gemmologists and two valuers.<br />
It houses a cutting workshop, photo studio,<br />
and all the background work that goes into<br />
creating our collections. This is also where I<br />
often receive our bespoke commissions from<br />
clients,” Dr Bernard said.<br />
“We mine the majority of our opals and cut<br />
and polish them. I design one-off and limitededition<br />
jewellery around individual gems<br />
and we offer them online and from Sydney<br />
locations to our international and Australian<br />
clientele. For these three reasons, we are<br />
able to guarantee our gem and craftsmanship<br />
quality across time.<br />
“As far as I know, Opal Minded is the only fine<br />
opal jewellery business in Australia focused<br />
exclusively on opals. I am also not aware of<br />
any other fine opal jewellery company<br />
of our size to have gemmological and<br />
valuing credentials, earned from<br />
GIA, GAA and NCIV,” she said.<br />
The best quality Jundah-<br />
Opalville opals are in<br />
a league of their own,<br />
according to Dr Bernard,<br />
who finds their brightness in<br />
low light conditions striking.<br />
She first became aware of<br />
this quality when she started to<br />
remove two white Jundah opals from a<br />
safe in a semi- dark room. With no direct light,<br />
she observed that the two gems in the half<br />
open safe were glowing.<br />
“They captured all the light available to them<br />
and sent it my way. The effect was incredible. I<br />
checked them for fluorescence straight away –<br />
fluorescence is suppressed by the iron content<br />
of the host-rock in boulder opals – and of<br />
course, there was none.” Since then, she runs<br />
every Jundah-Opalville stone she likes through<br />
her own private “under-the-table” test to see<br />
how much brightness it gives in limited light.<br />
Dr Bernard explained that Jundah-Opalville<br />
was most likely the site of the first black opals<br />
discovery in Australia before they were found<br />
in Lightning Ridge, which later became their<br />
centre.<br />
”Black opals from Jundah form in the<br />
boulders normal for that area, yet their base<br />
is darkened, most likely by the manganese<br />
content. These usually small and unusually<br />
bright gems exhibit an incredible range of<br />
colour with an exquisite colour play.”<br />
Pipe opals are also mined on the site, ranging<br />
from 1mm thick to large 30cm bricks of clean<br />
light opals.<br />
The Jundah-Opalville site is harsh with<br />
scorching temperatures and suited to only a<br />
few.<br />
“There aren’t many miners in the area, as<br />
life is particularly tough there, without the<br />
comforts that residents of Coober Pedy<br />
or Lightning Ridge can take for granted,<br />
such as grocery stores or fresh fruit and<br />
veg. Consequently, the output and market<br />
penetration is relatively low, but what it lacks<br />
in quantity, it definitely makes up in quality.<br />
Overall, Jundah-Opalville opals at their best<br />
are beyond exceptional,” she said.<br />
<strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 47
John and his brother Ron ensure the Opal<br />
Minded mine is run sustainably with a strong<br />
emphasis on a holistic and ethical approach.<br />
“Considering the wildlife and long-term<br />
environmental implications of our actions have<br />
been on John’s mind for much longer than the<br />
current trends or regulatory practices. At our<br />
own mining practice, my husband’s favourite<br />
life-long motto is: “Do your best always to<br />
leave the earth at least as good as it was<br />
before you landed.”<br />
Dr Bernard pointed out the Opal Minded<br />
mining camp is built almost entirely from<br />
recyclables. “For a long time we operated off<br />
the grid, until it was no longer feasible given<br />
the poor durability of the current solar energy<br />
hardware,” she said.<br />
Earlier this year Opal Minded was recognised<br />
as best Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Brand in the Asia-<br />
Pacific by the acclaimed UK based 2021<br />
LUXlife Global Excellence Awards. An email<br />
delivered the news to the Bernards and it<br />
came as a surprise.<br />
“We did not expect or know about it, so it was<br />
doubly thrilling. Australian opals by default<br />
set a high bar for ethical gemstones as they<br />
are mined by small-scale miners, with a strong<br />
regulatory emphasis on doing the right thing<br />
by the environment,” she noted.<br />
The pandemic brought new challenges to Opal<br />
Minded, which had been relatively spoiled by<br />
the success of its bricks-and-mortar business<br />
until it hit. In March 2020, the company went<br />
through a steep learning curve<br />
“We practically did not exist as an online<br />
business. The beginnings were the hardest.<br />
To face a business pretty much wiped out<br />
by lockdowns and border closures was<br />
devastating. When it comes to the level of<br />
destruction, we were on par with the airlines,<br />
or worse,” Dr Bernard recalled.<br />
“We learned that a good e-commerce website<br />
is not built in one day. Then, soon after we<br />
unveiled its first edition in October 2020, we<br />
suffered a fraud attack. The site withheld it,<br />
stopping 2,500 fraudulent transactions before<br />
they happened, but it was a rude awakening<br />
to us. We stepped out of the game for a<br />
couple of months to build in more security,<br />
and test and retest, and do it again and again,<br />
before our e-commerce was operational<br />
again,” she explained.<br />
The company went online with a renewed<br />
e-commerce focus in April 2021 and since<br />
then has delivered hundreds of one-of-a-kind<br />
and bespoke pieces to fine jewellery lovers<br />
around the world.<br />
“It is rewarding to me to see that we’ve<br />
garnished enough trust online to break the<br />
industry threshold of average online sales<br />
which, based on anecdotal evidence, stands at<br />
about $1,000-1,500,” Dr Bernard said.<br />
International travellers made up 90 per cent<br />
of Opal Minded’s clientele prior to Covid-19<br />
but recently the firm has seen an increase<br />
in local purchases, often by returned expats<br />
who appreciate Australian opals. It has also<br />
seen an increase in the local purchase of opal<br />
engagement rings and special anniversary<br />
gifts.<br />
Dr Bernard<br />
believes that the<br />
problem for fine<br />
opal jewellery<br />
is not so much<br />
demand as supply<br />
and points out<br />
there is not<br />
enough exposure<br />
to good Australian<br />
opals.<br />
“With such a<br />
limited supply<br />
of precious<br />
Australian<br />
opal<br />
gems, it is a<br />
privilege of the<br />
few to witness<br />
the dynamic<br />
nature of<br />
their best<br />
play of<br />
colour<br />
firsthand.<br />
Those<br />
who<br />
do are<br />
usually<br />
hooked<br />
for life.”<br />
The company<br />
is now preparing to<br />
share more of its opal expertise online.<br />
“There is so much opal information on the<br />
internet, and not all of it is factually correct.<br />
Keeping the end users’ and industry’s interests<br />
in mind, we want to contribute more of<br />
our gemmological and professional valuing<br />
experience to the online conversations,” she<br />
said.<br />
Opal demand in the future looks rosy,<br />
maintains Dr Bernard. “The recipe for it is to<br />
give support to opal miners (supply) entertain<br />
(online presence) and provide outstanding<br />
customer services (reliable information,<br />
product guarantees). And, at Opal Minded, we<br />
have every intention to do our bit.”<br />
www.opalminded.com<br />
48<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Calling all Retailers<br />
Calling all Retailers<br />
Calling all Retailers
HONG KONG-BASED FINDINGS<br />
COMPANY OPENS DOORS IN SYDNEY<br />
New Century Findings was established in Hong Kong over 20 years ago and now brings its<br />
extensive range of fine jewellery and components to the Australian market.<br />
Sidney Law is the director of NCF Aus<br />
and says the new Australian branch of<br />
the company is keen to offer choice<br />
to independent businesses, large and small,<br />
and looks forward to establishing long-term<br />
relationships with companies that ready to<br />
grow.<br />
“We have a large collection of the latest<br />
European fashions which have not traditionally<br />
been easily available in this market,” says<br />
Sidney. “Our passion for beauty and quality<br />
led us to importing jewellery and components<br />
from Italy, Germany, Japan and USA which<br />
is quite unusual when the mainstream was<br />
exporting Made-in-China goods.”<br />
Since 1998, and with the added<br />
benefits of Hong Kong being<br />
a free port, NCF has<br />
built up an efficient<br />
distribution<br />
network for<br />
affordable luxury<br />
jewellery. Sidney<br />
is pleased to<br />
offer the results<br />
of this experience to<br />
Australian jewellers,<br />
giving them the ability<br />
to present different and<br />
unconventional choices<br />
to their customers.<br />
“We have inventory for<br />
same day delivery, our<br />
business is scalable,<br />
there is no minimum<br />
quantity required to<br />
start a business but we<br />
also can fulfil big and<br />
custom-made orders<br />
in short time,” says Sidney. “For people who<br />
want to make their own designs, we can<br />
supply most of the items<br />
semi-finished or by<br />
metre. The level<br />
of creativity and<br />
craftsmanship<br />
in Italy not only<br />
makes jewellery<br />
more appealing<br />
but, to many<br />
people's surprise,<br />
NCF has won the best service award at the JMA shows in<br />
November for three consecutive years since 2019<br />
it's often the case that Italian jewellery<br />
components are more economical due to<br />
state-of-the-art technology, automation and<br />
production scale.”<br />
NCF Aus also prides itself on its responsible<br />
and ethic sourcing credentials, factors that<br />
Sidney recognises are increasingly vital<br />
in many consumers' decisions. “All our<br />
manufacturers care about the environment,”<br />
he says, “and are members of the Responsible<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Council and are ISO certified.” NCF<br />
Aus has also taken measures to minimise the<br />
50<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
company's footprint by eliminating any necessary packaging,<br />
using digital media for order processing, and reusing and<br />
recycling whenever possible.<br />
Sidney points out that stock management is one crucial area<br />
where NCF Aus can be of assistance. “We roll out new styles<br />
every month so there are more reasons for your customers to<br />
come back and shop. Our clients can access our large inventory<br />
and tailor their unique collection – all supported by NCF<br />
Aus and our parent<br />
company's massive<br />
stock. Our clients who<br />
operate online stores<br />
can benefit from this<br />
enormously.” He adds<br />
that NCF customers<br />
have 24x7 product and<br />
stock support from<br />
the company's online<br />
platform.<br />
Sidney Law and wife Donna Law are looking<br />
forward to meeting new Australian clients.<br />
NCF Aus will be<br />
exhibiting at the<br />
International <strong>Jewellery</strong> Fair in August in Sydney, and the<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Fair in February 2023 in Melbourne.<br />
“We hope there will be more trade fairs in Australia where<br />
people can meet face to face soon – we'll be there!” Sidney says,<br />
“but in the meantime, our online catalogue provides product<br />
details with high quality images and we constantly update it with<br />
new arrivals.”<br />
Potential clients are welcome to visit the NCF showroom in the<br />
Sydney CBD to view the full collection.
ALL THAT GLITTERS:<br />
STORYTELLING THROUGH<br />
SOCIAL MEDIA<br />
Everyone knows that a social media presence is essential for business these days, but the<br />
sheer number and variety of platforms can be overwhelming. It helps to know which users<br />
are using which platforms. Here we look at each of the major platforms and consider who<br />
is using them and what they’re looking for.<br />
More than ever, the digital world influences the purchasing<br />
decisions of high-end consumers. According to McKinsey, 40<br />
percent of luxury purchases are influenced by consumers’<br />
digital experience in some way or another.<br />
Even if luxury consumers desire to purchase fine jewellery in-store,<br />
they will often do prior research online, looking into the product and<br />
the brand's ethos, or will scroll through reviews from credible online<br />
bloggers.<br />
Instagram<br />
Instagram is one of the main social media platforms used by luxury<br />
brands to interact with their target audience because of its many<br />
useful tools and features.<br />
As a largely visual platform, posts on Instagram should paint a vivid<br />
picture of what your brand represents, which as a result, drives both<br />
top and bottom-funnel marketing goals.<br />
With luxury items like fine jewellery, there is a strong need to craft<br />
an emotive brand story that resonates with the target audience.<br />
Consumers are looking to support brands that fulfil a sense of personal<br />
identity and offer deeper meaning.<br />
Creative content and campaign creation can push your brand narrative<br />
further and increase engagement with luxury consumers. By leveraging<br />
social media platforms such as Instagram and TikTok, brands can<br />
create pre-scheduled or real-time content to showcase their story and<br />
products to the world.<br />
To succeed on social media, it is integral for brands to understand<br />
where most users spend their time and what kind of content appeals<br />
to them. Additionally, brands need to understand the best practices<br />
for each social media platform. Every platform has its own unique<br />
functions and algorithms, which means that content must be tailored<br />
individually for each social media channel.<br />
52<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Video Reels<br />
Instagram Reels are vertical short-form videos<br />
that can be up to 60 seconds long. Instagram<br />
users can record and edit the video within the<br />
app, such as placing music on top of the video,<br />
and sharing it across their Feed and Stories.<br />
These short-form videos can be discovered<br />
in both the Explore and Reels tab, which<br />
means there is a greater chance for increasing<br />
engagement and followers.<br />
The Instagram Reels algorithm has been<br />
somewhat of a mystery in the past however,<br />
the platform has since offered insight into how<br />
to get content onto the discovery tabs.<br />
Instagram has shared that its platform<br />
prioritises posts that have high engagement,<br />
such as likes, comments, saves and shares.<br />
The platform also favours Reels that use<br />
Instagram’s creative tools such as texts, filters,<br />
camera effects and music library.<br />
Conversely, Instagram de-prioritises low<br />
quality videos and repurposed content<br />
from other platforms such as TikTok. This<br />
has previously made it difficult for creators<br />
to share short-form videos across multiple<br />
platforms due to TikTok watermark protocols.<br />
However, many watermark removing apps<br />
have been developed to work around this<br />
issue.<br />
According to Head of Instagram, Adam<br />
Mosseri, Instagram is no longer a ‘photosharing’<br />
app, having pivoted to a videofocused<br />
platform, similar to TikTok. To take<br />
advantage of Instagram’s shift, jewellery<br />
brands should prioritise Reels when<br />
developing content strategies for social media.<br />
Instagram Guides<br />
Almost like a short-form blog, Instagram<br />
Guides are an underrated feature that is<br />
a great tool for curating content such as:<br />
posts, Reels, and Lives in one location — all<br />
while adding commentary to enhance the<br />
storytelling of a brand.<br />
Instagram Guides can be used to create<br />
content such as product highlights, travel<br />
guides, restaurant reviews, gift guides and<br />
more.<br />
There are three types of guides that can be<br />
created: places, products and posts. <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
brands should focus on products and posts.<br />
Product guides are used to showcase items in<br />
your Instagram shop and can be a great way<br />
to create gift guides and drive sales to your<br />
Instagram storefront.<br />
Post-based guides are predominantly used<br />
to create article and blog-like content. With<br />
these types of guides, content can be pulled<br />
from your feed or a saved post published by<br />
other public accounts.<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> brand Swarovski uses Instagram<br />
Guides to showcase different collections and<br />
create style guides for users to browse. Not<br />
only does this give more insight into products,<br />
it also allows consumers to connect more<br />
deeply with the brand.<br />
Shopping on Instagram<br />
According to Instagram’s internal data, more<br />
than 130 million users tap on an Instagram<br />
shopping post every month, proving to<br />
be an effective technique for brands with<br />
e-commerce platforms to get noticed.<br />
Instagram Shopping includes an array of<br />
features that allow users to learn more about<br />
products and seamlessly turn online followers<br />
into customers. Using these features can<br />
dramatically increase website visitors and<br />
conversions.<br />
The main feature is Instagram Shop, which lets<br />
businesses integrate their product catalogue<br />
with their profile. By adding an immersive<br />
storefront, businesses can promote products<br />
via posts, stories, live broadcasts and reels.<br />
Products in their Instagram catalogue can also<br />
be featured in the ‘Shop tab’. The Shop tab is<br />
on the homescreen where users can discover<br />
new brands and products.<br />
Products appearing in this section are<br />
customised by the Instagram algorithm, which<br />
looks at previous posts that a specific user has<br />
interacted with to suggest similar products.<br />
One of the best ways to get your products<br />
noticed by users is by creating engaging posts<br />
and using product tags. This feature allows<br />
you to tag items from your product catalogue<br />
directly onto posts. Users can then tap tags to<br />
learn more about the product and be directed<br />
to the product page of the brand’s online<br />
website.<br />
Consistency is key when using product tags<br />
on Instagram. Businesses can tag up to five<br />
products per post to help increase their<br />
engagement.<br />
TikTok<br />
TikTok is a short-form video-sharing platform<br />
used frequently by Gen Z and Millennials.<br />
Currently, Gen Z and Millennials make up<br />
40 percent of luxury consumers and many<br />
businesses are creating content on this<br />
platform to target younger consumers.<br />
As a video-based platform, TikTok encourages<br />
users to create their own content using the<br />
app's effects and soundbites. With access<br />
to many video-editing tools, users can easily<br />
produce content that is short and captivating.<br />
<strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 53
TikTok uses a specific algorithm to decipher<br />
which videos will appear on a user’s ‘For<br />
You’ page. Users do not have to follow an<br />
influencer to see content on the main feed<br />
as they do for Instagram. Instead, videos on<br />
the For You page are dependent on the user’s<br />
viewing activity and preferences.<br />
The TikTok algorithm is quite complex but the<br />
main factors that are considered include: user<br />
activity, video subject matter, location and<br />
language, audio, and user feedback.<br />
The app’s ‘duet’ feature allows users to<br />
interact with one another by replying to other<br />
videos. A duet contains two split videos that<br />
play together at the same time. This feature<br />
allows you to build on another user’s video,<br />
especially if that particular video has many<br />
views. Duetting other TikToker’s viral videos is<br />
a strategy that many use to increase views and<br />
discoverability on the app.<br />
Ana Luisa is a great example of a jewellery<br />
brand that is using TikTok as a way to target<br />
younger consumers. Their content includes<br />
videos with trending sounds and video<br />
formats.<br />
Pinterest<br />
Pinterest is a visual discovery platform where<br />
people go to find inspiration, ideas and<br />
products.<br />
With more than 60 percent of women making<br />
up the platform’s global audience, Pinterest<br />
is an ideal platform for jewellery brands that<br />
want to market their products.<br />
Pinterest is also a great platform for users to<br />
discover new brands. According to Pinterest’s<br />
internal data, 46 percent of weekly Pinners<br />
have discovered a new brand of product on<br />
the platform.<br />
Unique to Pinterest, the platform allows<br />
businesses to add links easily to each pin,<br />
which gives more opportunity for businesses<br />
to drive conversions and increase website<br />
traffic.<br />
Pinterest also runs a Verified Merchant<br />
Program (VMP) which helps users on Pinterest<br />
discover and buy from brands that the<br />
platform deems as high-quality.<br />
Verified merchants will have a blue checkmark<br />
on profile and pins to let users on the platform<br />
know that they are a trusted seller along with<br />
other exclusive benefits.<br />
To be accepted onto this program, merchants<br />
will need to have an active product catalogue,<br />
a functioning tag and meet Pinterest’s<br />
merchant guidelines.<br />
The rise of digital influencers<br />
Influencer marketing, also known as working<br />
with creators, is a go-to strategy to expand<br />
the reach of your brand on social media. With<br />
more than a billion active users per month,<br />
Instagram offers brands the opportunity<br />
to reach new audiences through content<br />
generated by creators with social influence.<br />
Set to become a $15 billion industry by <strong>2022</strong>,<br />
many see influencer marketing as a more<br />
effective way<br />
to engage with<br />
audiences than<br />
traditional<br />
advertising. On<br />
social media,<br />
there is a<br />
growing group<br />
of influential<br />
consumers<br />
who have<br />
the power to<br />
persuade their<br />
audience on<br />
what products<br />
to purchase.<br />
While these<br />
influencers<br />
possess reach<br />
and purchase<br />
power, their knowledge, authority and<br />
influence is most valuable to businesses.<br />
For jewellery brands, many partner with<br />
fashion influencers to extend their digital<br />
reach. Influencers in this group are perceived<br />
as credible, trustworthy and relatable in their<br />
field of interest.<br />
Usually, the average content creator has the<br />
skills and resources to create their social<br />
media deliverables for their own audience –<br />
which means you will not have to create the<br />
content.<br />
By producing their own content, influencers<br />
balance the brand’s storytelling with their own<br />
creative voice, which adds personability and<br />
authenticity to the brand.<br />
y<br />
18-21 %<br />
Online fine<br />
jewellery sales<br />
are expected to<br />
grow to 18-21%<br />
of total sales by<br />
2025, up from<br />
13% in 2019.<br />
Creative partnerships digital<br />
content creators<br />
Many luxury brands work with influencers<br />
and content creators as a way to build<br />
brand awareness and increase engagement.<br />
Partnerships with content creators allow retail<br />
brands to speak to new potential customers<br />
from different social media platforms and<br />
build a genuine and organic following.<br />
54<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
By carefully selecting influencers to<br />
collaborate with, brands can target specific<br />
demographics in different parts of the world<br />
as they scale their business.<br />
Recently, London-based jewellery brand<br />
Missoma partnered with Beijing-born Youtube<br />
and Weibo influencer Savislook to create a<br />
capsule collection featuring gold statement<br />
jewellery pieces inspired by structural forms in<br />
nature and architecture. This was mentioned<br />
on her Savoslook’s Youtube channel of over<br />
200,000 subscribers.<br />
With over four million followers on social<br />
media platform Weibo, Savislook was also able<br />
to capture the attention of her following in<br />
Asia.<br />
Currently, Asia is the largest regional market<br />
and accounts for roughly 45 percent of<br />
branded international fine jewellery sales –<br />
and is expected to grow with China leading<br />
the way.<br />
More and more jewellery brands are using<br />
digital influencers to connect with new<br />
segments in different geographic areas,<br />
especially in Asia.<br />
Influencer programs<br />
There are many brands online with influencer<br />
programs that work with influencers and<br />
brand ambassadors on social media platforms<br />
such as Instagram, TikTok and Youtube.<br />
These influencer programs include different<br />
compensation models such as gifting,<br />
commissions, retainer fees and paid<br />
placements for creators.<br />
Influencers are usually given a creative brief<br />
and create aesthetically-pleasing visual posts<br />
with the branded products. This is then posted<br />
on their own accounts, but also can be posted<br />
on the brand’s profile as user-generated<br />
content.<br />
Online jewellery brands Mejuri and Ana Luisa<br />
have incorporated successful influencer<br />
programs as part of their digital marketing<br />
strategies.<br />
Streamlining social media to<br />
digital sales experience<br />
In the past year, online jewellery sales have<br />
surged worldwide and, according to McKinsey,<br />
are expected to continue with a growth from<br />
13 to 18-21 percent of the overall market by<br />
2025.<br />
The pandemic has created a ripple effect<br />
and made luxury consumers reassess what<br />
matters most in their lives. With new priorities<br />
in health, safety and financial stability, the<br />
way consumers shop and make purchasing<br />
decisions has become highly digitised and<br />
socially distant.<br />
Thus, alongside creating compelling<br />
social media strategies that resonate with<br />
consumers, brands also need to create<br />
processes to streamline the social media to<br />
digital sales process.<br />
Social media has become an important tool in<br />
the sale of retail products. It is important that<br />
your business understands how to leverage<br />
platforms to succeed in an ever increasing<br />
digital landscape. By ensuring you are using<br />
social media as part of your marketing<br />
strategy, you are improving your chances of<br />
reaching the right audience, and building long<br />
term relationships with your customers.<br />
In a market where there is worldwide<br />
competition accessible to customers within<br />
seconds one thing is clear – social media<br />
marketing for jewellery brands is here to stay.<br />
<strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 55
BURGUNDY MINES LAUNCHES<br />
ITS NEW ULTRA-LUXURY<br />
DIAMOND BRAND<br />
Burgundy Mines is the Perth-based operation behind the re-opening of the Ellendale<br />
diamond mine in Western Australia. Having recommenced mining, the company has<br />
now announced the launch of its coloured diamond brand, based in France.<br />
Maison Mazerea, presenting the<br />
world’s first branded natural<br />
diamonds characterised by exquisite<br />
colours, unique hand-crafted cuts and certified<br />
provenance guaranteed by an end-to-end<br />
business model, will be officially launched in<br />
Paris in early <strong>July</strong>.<br />
Maison Mazerea is inspired by the fabulous<br />
17th century diamond collection of Cardinal<br />
Jules Mazarin, bequeathed to Louis XIV and<br />
the French Crown Jewels.<br />
The brand says it aims to restore the soul,<br />
personality and individuality to exceptional<br />
Fancy Colour diamonds by recapturing the<br />
glory of Versailles and the birth of French<br />
luxury and diamond savoir-faire.<br />
“We bring the<br />
finest-quality<br />
large Fancy Colour<br />
natural diamonds<br />
from hand-picked<br />
mines across the<br />
world, through<br />
our Grand Atelier<br />
in Australia right<br />
to Place Vendôme<br />
in the very heart of Paris,” said Burgundy<br />
Mines, in a statement.<br />
“Our diamonds are distinguished by their<br />
hand-crafted character. The soul of each<br />
stone is brought to light through months of<br />
meticulous cutting and hand-polishing by<br />
world-renowned master craftsmen, reviving a<br />
range of heritage cuts that showcase the hue<br />
and saturation of the coloured diamonds.”<br />
The 'Grand Atelier' will be based in Perth,<br />
Western<br />
Australia.<br />
Burgundy<br />
Mines says it<br />
has assembled<br />
some of the<br />
world's most<br />
experienced<br />
craftspeople<br />
to apply traditional cutting artistry and skills<br />
to Fancy Colour Diamonds. Notoriously<br />
challenging to cut, each coloured diamond<br />
requires profound respect and dedication on<br />
the part of the artisan.<br />
“Recognised as leaders in their field, our<br />
Master Craftsmen have honed their unique<br />
expertise over thirty years of cutting and<br />
polishing the finest of the world-renowned<br />
Argyle pink diamonds,” says the brand.<br />
They are committed to facet the diamonds<br />
according to the “soul and charisma” of<br />
each stone and “never to merely maximise<br />
superficial brilliance or price.”<br />
56<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
“For this reason,” continues<br />
the brand, “our artisans take<br />
inspiration from historic cuts<br />
seldom seen today. These<br />
traditional styles feature<br />
fewer facets, which infuse<br />
the diamond with a more<br />
subtle light and showcase its<br />
natural colour. Shimmering<br />
seductively in candlelight,<br />
as the original Mazarin<br />
diamonds glimmered at<br />
Versailles, our diamonds<br />
bring back the romance of<br />
a glorious past. They evoke<br />
the soft lustre and intrigue of soirées and balls held long before the<br />
advent of electric light, long before the fashion for the harsh, sparkling<br />
brilliance of the modern cuts favoured for white diamonds.”<br />
Purplish-pink diamond, the Grace Diamond was one of the<br />
last to emerge from the Argyle mine and was cut by two of the<br />
craftspeople who have now brought their skill to Maison Mazerea.<br />
By creating an ultra-luxury brand and owning the entire process<br />
from discovery to design, from rough to hand-crafted polished,<br />
from mine to masterpiece jewel, Maison Mazerea aims to bring<br />
Australia yellow diamonds to new prominence. It also provides<br />
an undeniable guarantee of provenance and ethical practices and<br />
leads the way in the revival of Haute Diamanterie first established<br />
in 17th century France.<br />
Maison Mazerea is also working on a presentation for the Grace<br />
Diamond – an Argyle Pink previously known as Argyle Stella but<br />
now renamed in honour of Princess Grace of Monaco. A Fancy Vivid<br />
Time to buy Australian-made<br />
Ph: (03) 9650 5955 Fax: (03) 6950 5977<br />
Email: sales@millenniumchain.com.au<br />
Web: www.millenniumchain.com.au<br />
6th Floor, 313 Lt. Collins St.<br />
Melbourne 3000 Victoria<br />
Millennium Chain<br />
Finished Top 5 in the category of<br />
Best Selling Gold <strong>Jewellery</strong> Suppliers in<br />
Australia and NZ, as voted by retailers.<br />
millennium_chain
According to legend and lore, the idea of a birthstone chart goes back to Biblical times and the<br />
Breastplate of Aaron, which was set with twelve gemstones. A writer in the first century postulated<br />
that these gems directly correlated with the twelve astrological signs of the Zodiac and that these<br />
stones were beneficial to the health of the wearer. While the perception of the 12-stone birthstone<br />
chart has changed over the centuries, it still implies “to each her stone.”<br />
By Cynthia Unninayar<br />
‘Magnipheasant Collar’ by<br />
UK-based Stephen Webster,<br />
featuring 178.15 carats of peridot<br />
from Fuli Gemstones, accented<br />
with white and black diamonds.<br />
(Photo: Stephen Webster)<br />
PRECIOUS PERIDOT<br />
August’s Birthstone<br />
Center: 13.29-ct peridot,<br />
no heat, Myanmar,<br />
featured on the online<br />
marketplace Gembridge.<br />
(Photo: Gembridge)<br />
Samples of pre-formed Apache peridot from the San Carlos<br />
Reservation in Arizona in the USA. (Photo: Charles Vargas)<br />
Green sand (olivine, 1 mm in size) from Papakōlea Beach on the Big<br />
Island of Hawaii (Photo: Wilson44691, Commons.wikipedia.com)<br />
What do Hawaii’s Papakōlea Beach, moon rocks, meteorites,<br />
and beautiful pieces of fine jewellery have in common?<br />
They contain the colourful yellow-green mineral Olivine<br />
or—as its translucent form is known in jewellery—Peridot. This unique<br />
green gem is also the birthstone of August.<br />
Legend has it that the origin of peridot dates to the volcanic island of<br />
Zabargad in the Red Sea during the Ancient Egyptian Empire. Priests<br />
encrusted goblets with the green stone, believing that it harnessed<br />
the power of Nature, allowing them to commune with the gods. It was<br />
also highly prized by Cleopatra for its beauty, who thought that it kept<br />
evil spirits away.<br />
The Ancients believed that the gem rained down onto Earth from the<br />
explosion of a far-off sun. And their beliefs of an extra-terrestrial origin<br />
were not really all that fantastical. Peridot has been found in comet<br />
tails, asteroids, and even on the Moon and Mars. Crystals have also<br />
been found in meteorites that are 4.5 billion years old, and is thought<br />
to date back to the formation of the solar system. Most peridot,<br />
however, was created inside the Earth’s mantle and brought to the<br />
surface by volcanoes.<br />
According to ancient Hawaiian lore, olivine/peridot crystals—found<br />
in the island’s lava rocks and its distinctive green sand beach—are<br />
the tears of Pele, the goddess of volcanoes and fire. Carved in a<br />
49,000-year-old cinder cone on the Big Island of Hawaii, Papakōlea<br />
Beach is one of only four green sand beaches in the world. The other<br />
three are Talofofo Beach on Guam, Punta Cormorant on Floreana<br />
Island in the Galapagos Islands, and Hornindalsvatnet in Norway.<br />
58<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Peridot is a magnesium iron silicate with the formula (Mg 2+ , Fe 2+ ) 2<br />
SiO 4<br />
,<br />
a hardness of 6.5 – 7 on the Moh’s scale, and is one of the few stones<br />
found in a single colour. Its distinct green hue is very consistent, with<br />
the depth of green determined by the amount of iron in the crystal<br />
structure. The colour can range from a rich sea green to an olive green<br />
to a lighter yellow green.<br />
‘Amazon’ pendant featuring a 110.49-ct peridot,<br />
accented with purple garnet and white diamonds by<br />
USA-based Erica Courtney. (Photo: Erica Courtney)<br />
Today, the main sources of the green gem are Myanmar and Pakistan,<br />
although another important source of fine peridot is the Peridot Mesa<br />
on the San Carlos Apache Reservation in the USA state of Arizona. It<br />
produces thousands of carats of gem-quality stones, sold both locally<br />
and around the world.<br />
“Peridot is born of fire from the iron-rich upper mantle of Mother<br />
Earth,” explains Charles Vargas, CEO of Apache Gems & Jewelry, who is<br />
an Nde Chiricahua Apache. “Collecting these beautiful green gems has<br />
been done for generations since the time of our Creation and recorded<br />
orally by our ancestors. The Apache remain caretakers of Peridot Mesa,<br />
a blessing to the people of the San Carlos Reservation to become<br />
fully self-reliant.” On the reservation, local artisans often<br />
combine peridot with Arizona turquoise and silver in a<br />
variety of necklaces, rings, and earrings.<br />
Whatever its origin, peridot is used to create beautiful<br />
jewellery, from rings to brooches, from earrings to<br />
necklaces and more. UK-based designer, Stephen<br />
Webster chose the gem for an exceptional necklace crafted<br />
using 178.15 carats of sustainably sourced peridot,<br />
accented with white and black diamond pavé, set in<br />
recycled 18ct gold. “The peridot Magnipheasant Collar<br />
was designed to be a celebration of colour and gem<br />
cutting,” says Webster. “The combination of the vibrant<br />
peridots from Fuli Gemstones, contrasted against black<br />
and colourless diamonds and the marquise cuts, makes the<br />
collar dynamic and attention seeking.”<br />
Around the world, designers of fine jewellery are fascinated<br />
by the richness of peridot. USA-based jewellery artist Paula<br />
Crevoshay explains, “I am attracted to peridot’s lovely soft<br />
yellowish shades of green. They are so emotionally warm and<br />
soothing. I also love peridot’s association with Cleopatra as her<br />
favourite gem! It is also very exciting because the stones are<br />
brought to the surface from great depths of the Earth and from<br />
outer space by meteorites. Peridot is truly a primordial gemstone!”<br />
Zohrab Istamboulian, of Thailand-based Zorab Atelier de Creation, uses<br />
a lot of green in his colourful collections because “green represents<br />
Nature and life. Using green gems lets my jewellery evoke this life. I<br />
especially appreciate peridot because of its unique summery hues<br />
among the many green tones of Nature.”<br />
‘Queen of Sheba’ earrings crafted from 86 peridots,<br />
24 tourmalines, and four opals, set in 18ct gold by<br />
France-based Lydia Courteille. (Photo: Lydia Courteille)<br />
‘Seahorse’ brooch featuring 155 peridots (5.34ctw), 72 tsavorites<br />
(3.39ctw), 4 yellow sapphires (0.65ctw), 26 yellow diamonds<br />
(0.87ctw), 59 white diamonds (1.81ctw) and 10 apatites (0.65ctw)<br />
in 18ct gold by USA-based Paula Crevoshay. (Photo: Crevoshay)<br />
Another creator of colourful fine jewellery, USA-based Erica Courtney<br />
is also a fan of peridot. “Green is soothing to the senses and is<br />
a calming colour. I prefer Pakistani peridot because its soft<br />
yellow-green tones remind me of a warm summer day and<br />
the gem makes you feel good when you wear it.”<br />
In her Queen of Sheba collection, France-based Lydia Courteille<br />
pays tribute to Ethiopia and its cultural and geographical diversity.<br />
With its emphasis on a green palette, one of the main gems is peridot,<br />
used as both a featured stone and in association with a variety of<br />
other colourful gems.<br />
A beautiful gemstone that evokes the freshness of summer, peridot is<br />
the perfect representation of the birthstone of August. ■<br />
Peridot from the San Carlos Reservation in the USA state<br />
of Arizona is sold both globally and locally where<br />
artisans use turquoise and other Arizona<br />
gems with silver to create a variety of<br />
colorful pieces. (Photo: Apache<br />
Gems & Jewelry)<br />
Ring featuring a 4.06-ct peridot surrounded by<br />
concentric bands of pink gold and palladium set<br />
with diamonds by Thailand-based Zorab Atelier<br />
de Creation. (Photo: Zorab Atelier de Creation)<br />
<strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 59
KIWI JEWELLERY IN BERLIN<br />
New Zealand jeweller Belinda Lubkoll has been invited to exhibit her<br />
latest collection in Berlin, Germany this September.<br />
Belinda Lubkoll moved to New Zealand 13<br />
years ago. She arrived from Germany with a<br />
backpack as a holiday maker and all her travel<br />
plans changed when she set foot inside Rob<br />
Wright’s goldsmith studio near New Plymouth<br />
and discovered a new passion and a new<br />
profession.<br />
Thirteen years on, she is still working for the<br />
same master jeweller and has been designing<br />
her own collections and one-off pieces for her<br />
clients as a qualified jeweller.<br />
Rob Wright is the founder of Ringcraft Moana,<br />
manufacturing jewellers, designers and<br />
artists working from a studio in Oakura, in the<br />
Taranaki region. Rob has been in the trade<br />
for 52 years and trained with George Bates<br />
who worked for Cartier in London. Belinda<br />
joined Rob’s team and trained with him as a<br />
manufacturing jeweller, enhancing her studies<br />
with workshops in Europe. Belinda uses a<br />
blend of technology and traditional skills in<br />
her jewellery making and has gained a strong<br />
following worldwide.<br />
This year, Belinda will exhibit her collection<br />
“Bauhaus Inspired” in Berlin at the studio and<br />
gallery of master jeweller Claudia Bätge.<br />
“As an artist,<br />
the interaction<br />
of historical<br />
buildings and<br />
modern designs<br />
has always<br />
interested me,”<br />
says Belinda and<br />
the city of Berlin<br />
provides plenty of scope to feed this interest,<br />
she adds. Berlin is a blend of historic buildings<br />
and new modern designs which leave an<br />
impression on Belinda that she’s keen to<br />
incorporate into her designs.<br />
Her jewellery works with the concept that a<br />
straight line needs a curve to be balanced out,<br />
she says. Belinda also likes to work with noncommercial<br />
stone settings which she describes<br />
as ‘unpredictable but with a clean line.’<br />
The minimalistic lines of the Bauhaus<br />
movement are evident in her work mixed with<br />
the vibrant primary colours of gems such as<br />
blue topaz, yellow citrine and red garnet.<br />
Belinda was a finalist in the 2019 Sydney<br />
International Design Awards. She entered the<br />
competition as a New Zealander but created<br />
her entry while she was in her hometown of<br />
Berlin and working alongside Claudia Bätge.<br />
The exhibition takes place during September<br />
in Prenzlauer Berg, Berlin.<br />
www.belindalubkoll.com<br />
www.ringcraftmoana.com<br />
60<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
JC Jewels Pty LTD adheres to following quality assurance principles consistent with the SCS<br />
SCS-007 Jewelry Sustainability Standard Series -<br />
Sustainability Rated Diamond (Standard for Trial Use)<br />
Accredited Wholesaler<br />
AWARDED TO<br />
JC Jewels Pty LTD<br />
Stanley Mathuram, PE,<br />
Executive Vice President<br />
SCS Global Services<br />
2000 Powell Street, Suite 600<br />
Emeryville, CA 94608 USA<br />
-007 Jewelry Sustainability Standard – Sustainability Rated Diamond.<br />
• Confirms that claims made in connection with the SCS-007 Standard pertain only to<br />
Certified Diamonds.<br />
• Accurately and fully represents a Certified Diamond’s source, physical characteristics and<br />
other attributes.<br />
• Uses only approved certification marks, program trademarks and descriptions.<br />
• Does not make untruthful, misleading or deceptive representation with respect to Certified<br />
Diamonds.<br />
• Does not represent a non-certified diamond as Certified.<br />
• Provides transparency around Certified Diamonds as to whether they are: rough or cut;<br />
composite; reconstructed; laboratory grown or natural.<br />
Issuance Date: 9/24/2021<br />
Accreditation Expiration: 9/23/<strong>2022</strong><br />
Accreditation Number: SCS-007-10020-WS
LONGINES DOLCEVITA X YVY<br />
– or when a leather strap redefines a watch<br />
The winged hourglass brand is launching the new Longines Dolcevita X YVY line. Swiss<br />
designer Yvonne Reichmuth has given the famous rectangular timepieces a new identity,<br />
with sophisticated leather straps. Referencing the equestrian world, their design is<br />
evocative of bridles and harnesses.<br />
As the (northern!)<br />
summer invites watchwearers<br />
to bare their<br />
forearms and reveal the<br />
timepieces adorning them,<br />
the winged hourglass brand<br />
is unveiling its new line of<br />
Longines DolceVita X YVY<br />
models. The watch brand has<br />
matched its timepieces here<br />
with subtle double straps in<br />
leather, in three shades: double<br />
beige leather, brown and black<br />
with rivets. The design of these<br />
models was entrusted to the Zurich-based company YVY, creators of<br />
sophisticated glam-rock accessories popular with international stars<br />
and clientele looking for exclusivity.<br />
Shared values<br />
The complementary worlds of Longines and YVY have come<br />
together in an almost<br />
instinctive collaboration.<br />
Made of leather, the<br />
straps of the Longines<br />
DolceVita X YVY models<br />
are adorned and<br />
reinforced with metal<br />
details.<br />
“We wanted to develop<br />
a new approach<br />
together to the world<br />
of horses and their<br />
bridles”, explained<br />
Yvonne Reichmuth,<br />
founder of YVY.<br />
62<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
The bond uniting the rider with their mount,<br />
that essential accessory that dresses the head<br />
and neck of the horse, reminds us of the<br />
alliance that develops between the human<br />
wrist and its timepiece.<br />
The designer adds: “The idea of a modular<br />
strap came about with the aim of creating<br />
a watch that could be worn with class in<br />
different styles.”<br />
Tradition rejuvenated by<br />
modernity<br />
Dressed in this contemporary design<br />
accessory, the youthful and glamorous<br />
Longines DolceVita X YVY line adapts to the<br />
desires of every wearer, as well as the events<br />
of their day thanks to the interchangeable<br />
strap system.<br />
Although it can be worn on its own, when the<br />
slim, complementary strap is combined with<br />
the watch, they transform into a stylish object<br />
that will captivate and touch every generation.<br />
“It is available with two different case sizes,<br />
to suit both men and women,” promises<br />
Matthias Breschan, CEO of the St Imier-based<br />
watch brand.<br />
Longines and Yvonne Reichmuth<br />
Yvonne Reichmuth was born in Switzerland<br />
in 1986. After graduating in fashion design<br />
in Zurich in 2008, she started her career as a<br />
womenswear designer. A strong and growing<br />
passion for leather took her to Florence,<br />
where she mastered the processes for treating<br />
and transforming this material.<br />
Over the decade that followed, Yvonne<br />
Reichmuth gained a wealth of additional<br />
experience as a fashion designer. She has<br />
provided pieces for editorial and commercial<br />
shoots, designed costumes for films and<br />
made numerous one-of-a-kind pieces. As<br />
a guest speaker, Yvonne has also shared<br />
her experiences with various schools and<br />
organisations.<br />
In 2016, she founded her own company in<br />
the centre of Zurich, naming it YVY after the<br />
short version of her first name. She has been<br />
invited to collaborate on fashion shows in<br />
Paris, Milan, Beijing, Berlin, Copenhagen and<br />
Dubai and has received several distinctions<br />
and prizes from the fashion world (Swiss<br />
Textile Prize for Young Fashion Entrepreneurs,<br />
Premium Young Talent Award).<br />
Her designs are worn by celebrities like Billie<br />
Eilish, Cardi B, Taylor Swift, Kristen Stewart,<br />
Monica Bellucci, Kylie Jenner, Gwen Stefani<br />
and Janet Jackson, as well as by a young and<br />
trendy audience.<br />
Her strength lies in the timelessness of<br />
her collections, which are independent of<br />
the seasons and are often inspired by the<br />
equestrian world so dear to Longines. The<br />
affinities between the two companies were<br />
obvious and the resulting collaboration with<br />
the winged hourglass brand has redefined<br />
the look of a selection of models from the<br />
Longines DolceVita collection.<br />
<strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 63
NEW PRODUCTS<br />
bastian inverun | Osjag | +61 2 9630 6619<br />
The beautiful leaf green colour of Peridot enhanced in a<br />
silver setting from Bastian Inverun.<br />
www.osjag.com<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre | +61 7 3221 3838<br />
New sterling silver pearl pieces from <strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre!<br />
P107 – Freshwater cultured button pearl pendant<br />
EW107 – Freshwater cultured button pearl earwires<br />
SE204 – Oval freshwater cultured pearl drop studs<br />
SE292CZ – Oval freshwater cultured pearl/white CZ drop studs<br />
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Zahar | +61 413 872 810<br />
New to Zahar – The Savannah Collection features dainty new<br />
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Everything is available now and ready for order! Product prices<br />
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info@zahar.com.au<br />
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Ellendale Diamonds Australia |<br />
Desert Rose <strong>Jewellery</strong> | +61 8 6180 1562<br />
18K gold south sea pearl rings.<br />
EDJR053<br />
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• 28 round fancy intense yellow diamonds 0.41ct<br />
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• 28 round 7PR pink diamonds form the Argyle mine 0.462ct<br />
www.ellendalediamonds.com.au<br />
64<br />
jewellery world - <strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Ikecho Australia | +61 2 9266 0636<br />
Plain earrings have never looked so versatile. Our Freshwater<br />
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Product code: IP37-EYG-BAR<br />
www.ikecho.com.au<br />
Bianc | +61 413 872 810<br />
The Amazonite Edit | Make a grand entrance with Bianc’s<br />
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Ellendale Diamonds Australia |<br />
Desert Rose <strong>Jewellery</strong> | +61 8 6180 1562<br />
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In 18K white/yellow gold this trilogy ring is elegance<br />
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These stunning pieces range from RRP$129-$259.<br />
Everything is available now and ready for order.<br />
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@bianc_jewellery<br />
www.bianc.com.au<br />
<strong>July</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 65
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DIRECTORY<br />
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Relaxing ...<br />
On their way to get married, a young couple is involved in a fatal<br />
car accident. The couple found themselves sitting outside the<br />
Pearly Gates waiting for Saint Peter to process them into Heaven.<br />
While waiting, they began to wonder: could they possibly get<br />
married in Heaven? When Saint Peter showed up, they asked him.<br />
"I don't know," said Saint Peter. "This is the first time anyone has<br />
asked. Let me go find out." And he left.<br />
The couple sat and waited, and waited. Two months passed and<br />
the couple were still waiting. While waiting, they began to wonder<br />
what would happen if it didn't work out: could you get a divorce<br />
in heaven? After yet another month, Saint Peter finally returned,<br />
looking somewhat bedraggled.<br />
"Yes," he informed the couple, "you can get married in Heaven."<br />
"Great!" said the couple, "but we were just wondering, what if<br />
things don't work out? Could we also get a divorce in Heaven?"<br />
Saint Peter, red-faced with anger, slammed his clipboard onto the<br />
ground.<br />
"What's wrong?" asked the frightened couple.<br />
"Oh, come on!," Saint Peter shouted. "It took me three months to<br />
find a priest up here! Do you have any idea how long it'll take me<br />
to find a lawyer?"
Calling all Suppliers<br />
Calling all Suppliers<br />
Calling all Suppliers
SPECIALISING IN ITALIAN MADE<br />
TENNIS MOUNTS AND GOLD CHAINS