The Fast Fashion Paradox & The Second Hand Solution | eBook
Gen Z eBook that uncovers why Gen Z are struggling to move away from fast fashion and the emerging opportunities that are allowing them to buy more sustainably.
Gen Z eBook that uncovers why Gen Z are struggling to move away from fast fashion and the emerging opportunities that are allowing them to buy more sustainably.
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STATE OF THE YOUTH NATION<br />
Gen Z<br />
<strong>The</strong> fast fashion paradox and<br />
the second hand solution<br />
Originally produced by YouthSight*<br />
SAVANTA.COM<br />
m a k e b e t t e r d e c i s i o n s
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
Who are Gen Z<br />
in 2021?<br />
We describe Gen Z as the generation<br />
of young people born from 1995<br />
onwards.<br />
As of today (2022) the oldest are<br />
currently 26 years old.<br />
*This <strong>eBook</strong> was originally produced<br />
by the YouthSight team - who are<br />
now part of Savanta<br />
1
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
No other research agency<br />
knows more about Gen Z<br />
Our bespoke research is informed by<br />
exclusive tracking data from the UK's<br />
leading Gen Z insight tracker, State of<br />
the Youth Nation.<br />
<strong>Fast</strong> fashion and second hand shopping<br />
share a common audience in Gen Z.<br />
While it’s no secret that Gen Z are trying<br />
to save the world from climate change,<br />
they are still living their lives in pictures<br />
on social media, using fast fashion as a<br />
status symbol. <strong>Second</strong> hand shopping<br />
is a sustainable alternative to fast<br />
fashion, providing Gen Z with unique<br />
and affordable pieces.<br />
Savanta was born when eight best-in-class agencies, all specialists<br />
in their fields, joined forces to offer big agency benefits, while<br />
retaining a refreshingly boutique mindset.<br />
Since conception, we’ve expanded our sector expertise by adding<br />
more agencies to our family.<br />
<strong>The</strong> result? A full range of integrated intelligence services at global<br />
scale, married to deep sector, issue and methodological expertise,<br />
delivered with an entrepreneurial spirit and client-first mindset.<br />
All to help our clients. Make Better Decisions.<br />
2
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
<strong>Fashion</strong> is disposable<br />
for Gen Z...<br />
According to Viva (2021), a whapping<br />
£2.7 billion is spent each year in the UK<br />
on outfits worn once before being<br />
discarded.<br />
23 % DID YOU KNOW...<br />
2 3 % o f G e n Z b u y<br />
a n i t e m a n d w e a r<br />
i t o n c e b e f o r e<br />
c h u c k i n g i t o u t<br />
Source: Vice, 2020<br />
3
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
Gen Z live their lives in pictures; and fast<br />
fashion allows them to do so<br />
Gen Z have a do it for the ‘gram<br />
mentality. <strong>The</strong>y want to look like they<br />
are living their best lives on social<br />
media –it’s a status symbol.<br />
<strong>Fashion</strong> is a tool used by Gen Z to<br />
establish social currency.<br />
This has fuelled “wear it once” culture.<br />
Once you’ve posted an outfit on social<br />
media it can’t be posted again because<br />
it’s now too old –the likes and<br />
comments stop rolling in.<br />
<strong>Fast</strong> fashion enables Gen Z to switch up<br />
their style regularly, cheaply and quickly.<br />
DID YOU KNOW...<br />
I f y o u s e a r c h # O O T D<br />
o n I n s t a g r a m , w h i c h<br />
s t a n d s f o r o u t f i t o f<br />
t h e d a y , i t r e s u l t s i n<br />
4 1 2 m i l l i o n p o s t s .<br />
4
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
It's not surprising that fast<br />
fashion has boomed<br />
According to Pirkani (2021), clothing<br />
production in the UK has doubled<br />
since 2000 and two in five people<br />
have purchased something on a fast<br />
fashion website in the last month.<br />
Online retailers such as Boohoo made<br />
over £1.2 billion in revenue last year<br />
(Statista, 2022).<br />
asos<br />
Nasty<br />
Gal<br />
PRETTY<br />
LITTLE<br />
THING<br />
5
G E N Z U N L I K E L Y C O U P L I N G<br />
And brands are making their<br />
clothes more readily available to<br />
Gen Z in a few ways…<br />
Slashing prices - take Missguided’s infamous<br />
£1 bikini for example -it was a loss-making<br />
promotional item designed to draw Gen Z in.<br />
Flexibility of payment - financial services like<br />
Klarna and Clearpayare available on fast<br />
fashion sites, giving cash-strapped Gen Zthe<br />
option to buy more and pay back over a period<br />
of time or pay later.<br />
Convenience fashion - with many fast fashion<br />
retailers offering next day delivery from as<br />
little as £5.99 a year, Gen Z can have almost<br />
instant access to fashion. This is perfect for<br />
the zero-effort generation.<br />
6
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
But fast fashion<br />
goes against Gen Z's<br />
core values<br />
Despite the popularity of fast fashion,<br />
Gen Z are conscious of its ethical<br />
impact. Backlash against the fast<br />
fashion industry is growing as it<br />
clashes with Gen Z’s high concern for<br />
the environment and the threat of<br />
climate change.<br />
Simply doubling the length of time we<br />
keep our clothes would cut emissions<br />
by 44% (Refinery29, 2020).<br />
Gen Z’s most important<br />
political issues (Top 5)<br />
38 %<br />
24%<br />
22%<br />
21%<br />
18%<br />
C L I M A T E C H A N G E<br />
M E N T A L H E A L T H<br />
H E A L T H C A R E<br />
C O S T O F L I V I N G<br />
C O R O N A V I R U S<br />
Source: State of the Youth Nation, 2022
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
Gen Z are increasingly holding brands<br />
accountable to their ethical values<br />
Many Gen Z want to buy from companies<br />
that align with their ethical beliefs. We see<br />
from our data that it is females in<br />
particular, who would prefer to purchase<br />
from ethical companies despite also<br />
buying from fast fashion companies.<br />
I prefer to only buy products from companies that I<br />
believe are acting ethically FEMALES ONLY<br />
34%<br />
38%<br />
51%<br />
53%<br />
57%<br />
DID YOU KNOW...<br />
42%<br />
o f G e n Z w a n t t o b u y f r o m<br />
l a b e l s t h a t t h e y b e l i e v e<br />
a r e a c t i n g e t h i c a l l y<br />
Source: State of the Youth Nation, 2022<br />
2018<br />
2019 2020 2021 2022<br />
Source: State of the Youth Nation, 2022<br />
8
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
Although Gen Z know they have<br />
options…<br />
54%<br />
of Gen Z feel bad<br />
about buying fast<br />
fashion clothes.<br />
Source: Vice x Snapchat, 2020<br />
54%<br />
of Gen Z say that<br />
money isn’t the issue<br />
–they’re happy to pay<br />
more for ethically<br />
sourced products<br />
Source: State of the Youth Nation, 2022<br />
...they still buy fast fashion
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
So how to square<br />
the circle?<br />
S u s t a i n a b l e<br />
s o l u t i o n s<br />
1
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
Many fast fashion and high street<br />
brands are offering responsible options<br />
1. Sustainable lines<br />
<strong>The</strong>se give Gen Z the option to shop responsibly yet<br />
still use the same platforms/shops that they like and<br />
are used to -like ASOS and Zara for example.<br />
2. Recycling incentives<br />
Shops like H&M and Primark have rolled out schemes<br />
to get customers to bring in no-longer-worn clothes<br />
for them to recycle in return for vouchers.<br />
3. Sustainable first<br />
New brands are making sustainability a commitment<br />
to all their clothes, providing ethically sourced and<br />
recyclable products, such as Gen Z athleisure brand<br />
TALA.<br />
11
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
However, the ‘ethical’ attempts of some<br />
brands have backfired with Gen Z<br />
Greenwashing is when a company sells<br />
itself or its products as good for the<br />
environment and eco-friendly, however<br />
once you scratch beneath the surface it<br />
becomes quite clear that this is marketing<br />
spin.<br />
Gen Z’s scepticism of companies has fed<br />
into ‘Cancel Culture’ which is increasingly<br />
holding brands accountable. In fact 40% of<br />
Gen Z have boycotted a brand because<br />
they didn’t agree with their values (State of<br />
the Youth Nation, 2022). So, where does<br />
this leave Gen Z and their shopping<br />
habits?<br />
@DANAHWA<br />
@_AVAZAN_<br />
Some brands need to realise<br />
that no amount of<br />
greenwashing or long-winded<br />
or long-winded social<br />
responsibility mission<br />
statement is going to disguise<br />
the fact they're still selling<br />
badly made, unnecessary<br />
clothes."<br />
Also sustainable fashion is<br />
often just marketed as such!!<br />
Any research into many brands<br />
(H&M 'conscious' etc.) reveals<br />
massive ecological and<br />
humanitarian failures.<br />
Greenwashing at it's finest!"<br />
12
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
<strong>Second</strong>-hand is a<br />
sustainable solution<br />
<strong>Second</strong>-hand is an affordable solution<br />
for Gen Z and provides them with<br />
unique pieces.<br />
Sustainable fashion lines are less<br />
affordable than traditional fast<br />
fashion, and may just push Gen Z<br />
back towards fast fashion.<br />
DID YOU KNOW...<br />
O v e r a t h i r d o f<br />
G e n Z s a y<br />
t h e i r t r u s t i n<br />
c o m p a n i e s i s<br />
a t a n a l l t i m e<br />
l o w .<br />
T h i s h a s<br />
i n c r e a s e d<br />
f r o m a q u a r t e r<br />
s i n c e 2 0 1 6 .<br />
Source: State of the<br />
Youth Nation, 2022<br />
<strong>Second</strong>-hand shopping provides Gen<br />
Z with a middle ground between<br />
trying to be more sustainable yet not<br />
breaking the bank.<br />
It also still allows them to<br />
experiment with their style, having<br />
rare, vintage or one-of-a-kind items.<br />
13
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
In fact, young people have<br />
already begun to drive the<br />
solution forward<br />
<strong>The</strong>y are the driving force of the growth of<br />
second-hand shopping, adopting second-hand<br />
apparel 2.5x faster than other age groups<br />
(Forbes, 2020).<br />
6%<br />
Given the choice, where would you prefer to<br />
shop? <strong>Second</strong>-hand/charity shops<br />
10%<br />
16%<br />
17%<br />
DID YOU KNOW...<br />
7 % o f G e n Z<br />
c u r r e n t l y b u y m o s t<br />
o f t h e i r b e l o n g i n g s<br />
f r o m<br />
c h a r i t y / s e c o n d -<br />
h a n d s h o p s<br />
Source: State of the Youth Nation 2022<br />
2018 2019 2020<br />
2021<br />
Source: State of the Youth Nation, 2022<br />
14
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
Thanks to innovative platforms, secondhand<br />
clothing has been reinvented<br />
Gone are the days of trawling dusty charity shop for clothes. Apps and online e-tailers<br />
like Depop, Vestiaire and Vinted have overhauled the second-hand image, where cool<br />
clothes are easily accessible.<br />
90 % D E P O P U S E R S U N D E R 2 6 Y O<br />
Source: Depop, 2022<br />
With over 26 million users worldwide, Depop<br />
has won over Gen Z by offering a place to<br />
buy and sell that looks just like Instagram.<br />
It’s not just a marketplace, it’s a community<br />
of creatives, with many sellers able to make<br />
their Depop shop a full-time job.<br />
Vestiaire Collective has established<br />
a platform for the second-hand<br />
luxury market -a win-win for Gen Z,<br />
having access to designer labels<br />
within a sustainable cycle.<br />
DID YOU KNOW...<br />
V e s t i a i r e C o l l e c t i v e ’ s<br />
t r a n s a c t i o n v o l u m e<br />
d o u b l e d i n 2 0 2 0 c o m p a r e d<br />
t o 2 0 1 9 a n d t h e c o m p a n y<br />
i s n o w v a l u e d a t $ 1 . 7 b n<br />
Source: <strong>The</strong> Crunch, 2021<br />
15
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
What does this tell<br />
us about Gen Z?<br />
Gen Z are paradoxical –they have conflicting<br />
wants and desires. In the short term, they<br />
want easily accessible unique pieces to<br />
wear and gain social status. Yet in the<br />
longer term, they want to help tackle climate<br />
change.<br />
For this generation, everything is about easy<br />
access. Although accessibility to second<br />
hand items has improved using tech, e.g.<br />
Depop, buying a whole outfit is not fast. <strong>Fast</strong><br />
fashion platforms on the other hand are<br />
effortless.<br />
16
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
What does this tell<br />
us about Gen Z?<br />
<strong>Second</strong> hand shopping delivers Gen Z’s<br />
desire for brands and unique stuff. <strong>The</strong> apps<br />
are usually peer-to-peer, which makes them<br />
relevant and cool. Yet to really make a<br />
change, Gen Z need to reject the wear-itonce<br />
culture which buying second hand<br />
does not address directly.<br />
Gen Z don’t follow the crowd-the popularity<br />
of second hand shopping and its unique<br />
pieces tells us that they don’t want to look<br />
the same as everyone else. <strong>The</strong>y want to<br />
find their own sense of style while at the<br />
same time not standing out too much.<br />
17
T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
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T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />
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