Adventure Magazine

Issue 223: Women's issue

Issue 223: Women's issue


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adventure<br />

where actions speak louder than words<br />




ISSUE 233<br />

AUG/SEP 2022<br />

NZ $10.90 incl. GST<br />

justine dupont<br />

Gabi Steindl<br />

paige hareb<br />

vinny armstrong<br />

& robin gooms<br />

nouria newman<br />

Frankie Sanders<br />

& Emily Warne

Dune Kennings shot by Cam Hay on a FujiFilm XT-3 + 16-55mm F2.8 lens. June 2022 – North Piha, NZ.




Left to right: Fanny Bullock, one of the world's first adventurous women / Elizabeth Shu in The Handmaid's Tale / Justine Dupont, one of<br />

this generation's advenurous women.<br />

It’s not that the adventure community saw women any differently<br />

than men, but for many years they hardly noticed them at all.<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong> activities, events and expeditions were often only seen<br />

to be pursued by men. The adventure community wasn’t antiwomen<br />

it simply wasn’t paying them any attention.<br />

But it is now!<br />

Over the last 30 years, we have seen the impact of women on<br />

the adventure community; sure there were always those intrepid<br />

women who ‘paved the way’ (some of which are editorialized in<br />

this issue). But it is only in relatively recent times that women<br />

have been recognized for their immersion in adventure. That<br />

involvement is not just in the action and outdoor achievement<br />

but it’s in the very core of the industry. Today, so many women<br />

are involved in adventure-based business, operations, start-ups,<br />

development and innovation. It’s no longer a man’s world but an<br />

adventurous world on an equal footing.<br />

However, there is a tragedy unfolding at present; as women claim<br />

their rightful place alongside men in the adventure community,<br />

we see the development of the far-right in the US where women<br />

are being denied rights, or better phrased, having their rights<br />

removed. Firstly, the focus was on the easy-targeted transgender<br />

community, then slowly and specifically the far-right gaze fell on<br />

women and their role. No matter what side of the abortion debate<br />

you stand on, it’s women’s rights that are being trampled, and it’s<br />

not just medical rights but rights of equality across the board.<br />

In this WOKE-saturated world it seems everyone is so quick<br />

to take offence, so quick in fact that it waters down the actual<br />

meaning of offence for those who should really be offended.<br />

But now, internationally the pendulum has swung from the far<br />

WOKE left to the far right, with phrases coming out of the USA like<br />

"Christian Taliban" and the establishment of a "Christian State"<br />

(one extremist used the terms ‘in the same way Afghanistan is<br />

Muslim’!).<br />

The comparison to the novel “A Handmaid’s Tale” is a constant<br />

analogy on social media, A Handmaid’s Tale is based in a world<br />

where women have a biblical role of simply being ‘less’.<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> is not a political platform, but it is a<br />

platform where women can feel equal to men in every way, their<br />

achievements, their success and their struggles, are equal with<br />

men.<br />

This is the women’s issue #<strong>Adventure</strong>Women which celebrates<br />

women and their achievements. We are proud of these women<br />

and as the decisions being made offshore cast a long and dark<br />

shadow, we hope this brings just a little light.<br />

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this issue – you have<br />

made us all proud.<br />

Steve Dickinson - Editor<br />

your <strong>Adventure</strong> starts with Us<br />

23 Locations Nationwide | www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz

Image by WSL Image by Robin O'Neill / Red Bull Content Image by Vaughan Brookfield / Red Bull Content<br />

page 6<br />

page 18<br />

page 24<br />

contents<br />

6//Zoi Sadowski-Synnott<br />

Making history<br />

10//Gabi Steindl<br />

Exploring Wanju Kepa Kurl Boodja<br />

18//Vinny Armstrong & Robin Gooms<br />

Kiwi's pushing new boundaries<br />

24//Paige Hareb<br />

Our Kiwi superstar<br />

30//Nouria Newman<br />

Claiming world first<br />

34//Justine Dupont<br />

Taming giants<br />

39//Inspirational Women<br />

#activewomen #adventurewomen<br />

42//Frankie Sanders & Emily Warne<br />

Leading the way<br />

44//Darran Mountains<br />

Northern Fiordland<br />

50//Kawekas<br />

Autumn equinox<br />

54//Mackenzie Region<br />

Someplace special<br />

76//<strong>Adventure</strong> Travel<br />

Samoa | Rarotonga | Tahiti | Vanuatu<br />

plus<br />

63. gear guides<br />

92. active adventure<br />


www.facebook.com/adventuremagnz<br />

adventuremagazine<br />

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz<br />

Nzadventuremag<br />



World Class Indoor Climbing<br />

First visit $25* then free for a week!<br />

Fantastic community, beginners<br />

welcome, boulder classes for all ages<br />

and abilities, inquire now.<br />

* Discounts for youths and own gear<br />

Student Mondays, entry $15<br />

www.northernrocks.co.nz<br />

@northernrocks.climbing<br />

Unit 17, 101-111 Diana Drive,<br />

Wairau Valley, Auckland | 09 278 2363<br />

“Northern Rocks is an indoor bouldering facility, we<br />

foster community, growth and positive experiences for<br />

people of all backgrounds, ages and abilities.”

Made with the<br />

outdoors in mind.<br />

merrell.co.nz<br />

Nature has our back—so we’re helping<br />

to minimise our impact on the outdoors<br />

by making footwear and apparel with<br />

recycled, renewable, or organic materials.


Kiwi rider, Vinny Armstrong explains, "Riding bikes is not just the sport or competing. Its all about hanging out with your mates and<br />

having a good time." Here she is in action at the Red Bull Formation a few years back. To see her and fellow Kiwi, Robin Gooms at the<br />

2022 Red Bull Formation, check out page 18. Photo by: Paris Gore / Red Bull Content Pool<br />


Northern Rocks Director and coach Sarah Hay along with<br />

coach and climber, Lisa Parkin and National youth climbing<br />

team member Rebecca Hounsell are offering girls the chance to<br />

engage in climbing, free of charge.<br />

Partnering with Sport NZ and the #itsmymove campaign, She<br />

Climbs is a climbing (bouldering) program designed to engage<br />

young women in sport, specifically climbing! She Climbs offers a<br />

safe and social space for high school age women to experience<br />

bouldering and connect with other rad young women. Their<br />

program will help young women gain confidence, build body<br />

positivity, grow friendships and receive quality coaching from our<br />

experienced female coaches.<br />

She Climb empowers young women to give climbing a go<br />

in a safe and supportive environment, and to have fun while<br />

participating in active recreation! We encourage young women to<br />

challenge themselves on the wide variety of climbing terrain, learn<br />

new movements, be inspired by each other, and gain fitness and<br />

self confidence. Bouldering is for everyone, and is an activity that<br />

women can excel in with the techniques, balance and problem<br />

solving skills involved!<br />


www.northernrocks.co.nz<br />



Steve Dickinson<br />

Mob: 027 577 5014<br />

steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />


Lynne Dickinson<br />

design@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />


subscribe at www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz<br />


Ovato, Ph (09) 979 3000<br />


ONLINE)<br />

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz<br />

www.adventuretraveller.co.nz<br />

www.adventurejobs.co.nz<br />

www.skiandsnow.co.nz<br />

@adventurevanlifenz<br />


NZ <strong>Adventure</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> is published six<br />

times a year by:<br />

Pacific Media Ltd,<br />

P.O.Box 562<br />

Whangaparaoa, New Zealand<br />

Ph: 0275775014<br />

Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />

Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must<br />

be accompanied by a stamped self-addressed envelope.<br />

Photographic material should be on slide, although good quality<br />

prints may be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility<br />

accepted for submitted material. All work published may be<br />

used on our website. Material in this publication may not be<br />

reproduced without permission. While the publishers have taken<br />

all reasonable precautions and made all reasonable effort<br />

to ensure the accuracy of material in this publication, it is a<br />

condition of purchase of this magazine that the publisher does<br />

not assume any responsibility or liability for loss or damage which<br />

may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or<br />

from the use of information contained herein and the publishers<br />

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the material contained herein.

/<br />

E N G I N E E R E D I N T H E<br />

E N G I N E E R E D I N<br />

D O L O M I T E S<br />

T H E<br />

D O L O M I T E S<br />




zoi sadowski-synnott<br />

making history<br />

Images by Red Bull<br />

In 1992 The Halberg Award judges gave their supreme award to Olympic skiing Silver<br />

Medalist, Annelise Coberger, ahead of Gold Medal winning Olympic boardsailing<br />

champion, Barbara Kendall. Despite the fact that Kendall was New Zealand's first<br />

female Olympic Gold Medalist since Yvette Williams 40 years earlier, the judges<br />

recognized the difficulty of success on the snow against the huge power players of<br />

Europe, Canada and USA and awarded the title to Coberger.<br />

If we thought Annelise Coberger’s win, (which was of extra significance being the first<br />

person from the whole of the Southern Hemisphere to win a medal at a Winter Olympics<br />

when she won Silver in the slalom at Albertville in France) would indicate a change<br />

in fortune for our Kiwi winter contestants, we were wrong. Despite a raft of talented<br />

athletes in the following years, New Zealand was unable to find international success on<br />

the snow covered podiums.<br />

It was not until the emergence of the Wells brothers, who dominated the ski scene in<br />

the 2010’s with wins at the X- games and FIS, that there was real possibility of winning<br />

gold at the winter Olympics. Unfortunately, they were unable to attain medals at the<br />

Olympics. Jossi came close in the 2014 Winter Olympics, placing fourth in the halfpipe<br />

but tragically Byron was forced to withdraw due to injury which plagued both athletes in<br />

the following Olympics in 2018.<br />

It took an astonishing 26 years before we saw another Kiwi win a Winter Olympic medal,<br />

and once again it was a woman, 16 year old Zoi Sadowski-Synnott. Her Bronze Medal<br />

at the 2018 Olympics in South Korea made Zoi New Zealand youngest ever Olympic<br />

medalist (at 16 years 353 days) a record she held for less than a day when Nico<br />

Pretorius (16 years 91 days old) won an Olympic medal later in the same day.<br />

During 2020 & 2021, in the shadow of a pandemic world, Zoi outperformed all other<br />

competitors at the preceding X-Games, which a good litmus test for what to except at<br />

the Winter Olympics.<br />

It should have come as no surprise, that the historic moment of winning NZ first ever<br />

Gold Medal at a Winter Olympics was achieved by then 20-year-old Zoi Sadowski-<br />

Synnott during the 2021 Olympics in Beijing held in 2022 (delayed due to the<br />

pandemic).<br />

For a country known for its exceptional skiing environment and the legendary Southern<br />

Alps, for a people known for their adventurous spirit and incredible achievements in<br />

the mountains, it is surprising that it took so long for New Zealand to make its mark at<br />

the Winter Olympics. Whatever the formular, whatever the coaching and the support,<br />

whatever the blend of talent and training, the environment is now right to create success<br />

and it was a woman, Zoi Sadowsky-Synnott, who goes down in the history books.<br />


Zoi Sadowski-Synnott practices before the finals in the Snowboard Big Air during the Winter<br />

Games at Cardrona Alpine Resort, New Zealand 2019<br />

Image by Vaughan Brookfield / Red Bull Content Pool

Zoi Sadowski-Synnott performs in the womans snowboard slope style during the Winter Games at Cardrona Alpine Resort,<br />

Image by Vaughan Brookfield / Red Bull Content Pool<br />


we ARE climbing<br />

Sarah Hueniken<br />

Johnston Canyon<br />

Banff National Park<br />

Photo: John Price<br />

johnpricephotography.ca<br />

For over thirty years Bivouac Outdoor has been proudly 100% New Zealand owned and committed to<br />

providing you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. It is the same gear<br />

we literally stake our lives on, because we are committed to adventure and we ARE climbing.<br />

Supporting Aotearoa's Backcountry Heritage<br />



Gabi Steindl<br />

exploring WANJU KEPA KURL BOODJA<br />

Where the water lies like a boomerang<br />

Words by Gabi Steindl / Images by Jaimen Hudson, James Hooper<br />

"Are you travelling all alone?", the ranger looked at me puzzled.<br />

“Yep” I replied with a big smile.<br />

His eyes inspected my Landcruiser. “You’re carrying off-road recovery equipment, yeah?”<br />

"Ehm, nope," I played it cool, but his questions made me a little nervous.<br />

"And you’re planning on sleeping alone on the beach?”<br />

“That was the plan"<br />

“Countless cars have already fallen victim to the beaches here. The sand is really soft in places and very, very deep.<br />

Hopefully you’ve got an air compressor and know a thing or two about tire pressure?”<br />

“Absolutely”, whether he believed me will remain unknown.<br />

"Well then, good luck!"<br />

“Thanks, mate”. My heart fully started pounding when Thomas River, the first obstacle I had to tackle to get onto the long<br />

stretch of wild, remote beaches of Cape Arid, sloshed over the bonnet of my Landcruiser. On the other side of the river, I<br />

stopped the engine, took a deep breath and let the tires down to 15psi. The real adventure was only just about to begin!<br />

With a massive area of 2.6 million km2 (four times the size<br />

of Texas) and some of Australia's most iconic landscapes,<br />

Western Australia is the home of the iconic road trip. I firmly<br />

believe that God created Australia’s largest state, with its<br />

scenic and rugged beauty, epic surf spots and one of the most<br />

pristine coastlines in the world, for us earthlings to explore by<br />

car.<br />

As a professional kitesurfer, I first came to Western Australia<br />

(aka WA) in 2007 to shoot a kiteboarding road trip story for the<br />

magazines with a New Zealand photographer, and fell head<br />

over heels in love with the Margaret River region of the South<br />

West. I am now a permanent resident and have been married<br />

to an Australian big wave windsurfer for 12 years. Margaret<br />

River is my home and Western Australia is my playground,<br />

where the options for great waves and new adventures never<br />

run out.<br />

On this trip, I wanted to explore some more remote stretches<br />

of the south coast of WA. With my jam-packed Toyota<br />

Landcruiser — two wavekiteboards, a surfboard, a foilboard,<br />

six kites, several bars, harnesses, wetsuits, my swag (one<br />

of the greatest inventions of mankind!), an Engel car fridge,<br />

gas cooker, camping chair, my camera gear, and the most<br />

important kitchen utensils — I kissed my husband goodbye<br />

and hit the road.<br />

The Esperance area, about 800km from Margaret River, is<br />

an isolated paradise on the coast of the Southern Ocean and<br />

is famous for its breathtaking beauty. The Wudjari People of<br />

the Noongar cultural group (also Nyungar, the Indigenous<br />

Australians of South West Australia) are the true locals and<br />

the traditional owners of this region. Their name for Esperance<br />

is Kepa (Water) Kurl (Boomerang), meaning 'where the water<br />

lies like a boomerang'. Fundamental to Noongar and Wudjari<br />

identity and culture is a strong connection to the land with a<br />

deep sense of responsibility to both manage and nurture their<br />

“country’’ (Boodja or Boodjar) and everything connected to it.<br />

The region around the small town of Esperance with only<br />

12,000 inhabitants officially has two of Australia's whitest sand<br />

beaches, so fine the sand actually squeaks underfoot. The<br />

colour of the water here rivals the most beautiful spots in the<br />

South Pacific with transparent waves that are often hard to<br />

see. Unfortunately, Esperance is also known for giant white<br />

sharks and in the last three years alone there have been<br />

three fatal shark attacks and a number of near-misses. Five<br />

days before I arrived, an 18-year-old girl was attacked and<br />

miraculously survived the attack despite severe wounds.<br />

I was excited to finally meet Jaimen Hudson, who grew up<br />

here. As a well-known aerial photographer and drone pilot, I<br />

had been in contact with him for quite some time by phone and<br />

internet with regard to various photo shoots I had planned in<br />

the area. Jaimen is 31 years old and a quadriplegic since he<br />

was 17 when he was involved in a serious motorbike accident<br />

in the sand dunes just out of town. Before the accident, surfing,<br />

skateboarding, scuba diving etc ruled Jaimen’s life and his<br />

earliest childhood memories are of the days on the water<br />

with his mother and father who ran a scuba diving school<br />

and boating business. About 8 years ago, Jaimen became<br />

interested in drone photography and videography, but due to<br />

his limited hand function, he feared that he would never be<br />

able to operate a drone himself; until he bought one in 2015.<br />

By now, Jaimen is a personality in the drone filming world and<br />

has been featured by major international media outlets such as<br />

The Huffington Post, BBC, The Sunday Times, BBC Earth and<br />

many more.<br />


Besides his filming and photography business, Jaimen<br />

bought and now runs his parents' boating family<br />

business with his wife Jess, a Canadian from Vancouver<br />

Island. Their three-year-old son “Captain” is a real<br />

trooper, and a second child is on the way.<br />

From the very first phone call, I had felt a special<br />

connection with Jaimen. Finally meeting him in person,<br />

and experiencing Jaimen's positive energy and charisma<br />

was amazing. Until then he had never shot kitesurfing<br />

and was just as excited as I was. "The wind forecast<br />

looks good for the afternoon", I said, "let's meet at West<br />

Beach around noon". “Perfect!”<br />

In an extremely stylish, black VW Multivan that was<br />

modified for Jaimen to drive himself, he dashes along<br />

the coast every day before sunrise in search of wildlife.<br />

Dolphins and whales are usually the main subjects of his<br />

phenomenal footage.<br />

During my first session, the queasy feeling in my<br />

stomach due to the large white underwater inhabitants<br />

subsided quickly; the mind-boggling scenery was<br />

helping. Dempster Head, a granite headland nearly<br />

100m high at the western end of the pristine, snow-white<br />

West Beach, is breathtaking from land but even more<br />

so from the water. Massive boulders shining in millions<br />

of reddish-brown shades in the midday sun, stuck out<br />

of the turquoise-blue water as if a giant would have cast<br />

them like dice.<br />

The horseshoe-shaped Twilight Bay, the unofficial<br />

landmark of Esperance with its iconic “rock with a hole”<br />

was our playground the following day.<br />


"Massive boulders shining in millions of reddish-brown<br />

shades in the midday sun, stuck out of the turquoise-blue<br />

water as if a giant would have cast them like dice."<br />

The colours of the Southern Ocean dazzled me, a<br />

kaleidoscopic spectacle of the most vivid shades of<br />

turquoise. At just under 8 knots, the wind conditions<br />

were borderline at best for my 10m2. With a foil board<br />

as my light wind weapon, I was hoping to make things<br />

work and to inspect the weird rock with the hole through<br />

it at Twilight Cove, which reminded me of the head of a<br />

prehistoric Pterosaur, up close. Halfway there, the wind<br />

suddenly died off to literally nothing. Looping my kite and<br />

being dragged through the water like trolling live bait was<br />

rather unsettling. Even more so as a foil looks like a big,<br />

shimmering fishing lure and a friend of mine got bitten by<br />

a shark while foiling in New Caledonia. "Breathe, don't<br />

think of sharks, breathe, don't think of sharks...". I felt<br />

relieved when I finally could feel the sand under my feet.<br />

An elderly gentleman who was on a beach walk and<br />

had observed my aborted foiling mission, came across<br />

the squeaky sand and commented "Three weeks ago<br />

a 4.5-meter Great White made Australian headlines<br />

cruising around right here, with lots of families and kids<br />

on the beach. A tourist filmed it with a drone. Check it out<br />

on Youtube!”. So I did later on. Woooow, he was big…<br />

As ubiquitous as the white sharks in Esperance are,<br />

after a few days there, I stopped thinking about them.<br />

Wherever the swell was up and the wind blew, I went<br />

kiting. I did long downwinders, played in transparent<br />

waves and was without exception, always alone on<br />

the water. The breaks along Esperance’s beaches<br />

usually are a fun size as the 105 offshore islands of the<br />

Recherche Archipelago (also called “Bay of Isles” by the<br />

locals) block the swell.<br />



"Without fins, I went on a crazy ride on my waveboard on this<br />

liquid pink mirror. A fair number of Lake Warden tattoos, scars<br />

from various cuts on my feet from the harsh salt crust, are my<br />

souvenirs for life, as are Jaimen’s phenomenal photos."

One day, when the wind blew fully onshore winds<br />

and all the breaks were a blown out, chaotic mess,<br />

I drove Esperance's famous Great Ocean Drive, a<br />

40-kilometre circular loop that goes past stunning<br />

empty beaches, rocky headlands, coves, sheer<br />

cliffs, karri forests and two lakes that lie inland from<br />

Esperance: Pink Lake (which isn't pink anymore)<br />

and Lake Warden. In the early 21st century, the<br />

bubblegum hued Pink Lake was a place that had to<br />

be seen to be believed, inspiring Dreamtime stories<br />

and considered a natural treasure by locals. The pink<br />

hue was caused by microscopic algae producing beta<br />

carotene. Unfortunately, the unique colour faded just<br />

over 10 years ago due to changes in natural water<br />

flow, reduced evaporation and salt extraction.<br />

The lake, which used to be so pink, was a sad sight<br />

in its now unspectacular grey-white tone. Glancing<br />

into the distance, I suddenly spotted a pink shimmer. I<br />

blinked several times and rubbed my eyes. Whatever<br />

I saw looked totally fake. Eventually, I realised that<br />

neighbouring Lake Warden (also a salt lake) was<br />

actually glowing pink. The ladies at the tourist office<br />

had told me that this can happen once or twice a year,<br />

but only if many different independent factors come<br />

together. Immediately, I rang up Jaimen “Mate, Lake<br />

Warden is pink!! I want to kite it, how can I get there?”<br />

“Whaaat, no way!! I'm coming!”. The Lake Warden<br />

area is a nature reserve and access is difficult. It was<br />

already late in the afternoon and there wasn't much<br />

time left. I drove closer to Lake Warden and fought<br />

my way by foot through the thick bushes to the shore<br />

of the salt lake. Around the lake was a thick, dry salt<br />

crust that was over a hundred metres wide. Before<br />

even thinking of pumping up my kite, I had to check<br />

the water depth and the ground below the surface. As<br />

if on snow I trudged to the shore of the lake and then<br />

waded cautiously in. The water was only about 10cm<br />

deep, the bottom a rock-hard, very sharp crust of salt.<br />

The wind was super gusty.<br />

The sky and the clouds reflected in the pink water.<br />

As much as I wanted to glide into this surreal setting<br />

with my kite, I knew I would rip out the fin boxes of my<br />

waveboard. After a moment's thought, I was on the<br />

way back to my car. Without fins, I went on a crazy<br />

ride on my waveboard on this liquid pink mirror. A fair<br />

number of Lake Warden tattoos — scars from various<br />

cuts on my feet from the harsh salt crust — are my<br />

souvenirs for life, as are Jaimen’s phenomenal photos.<br />


"The absolute highlight of my road trip was without a doubt Cape Arid<br />

National Park. “Remote” gets a new meaning in this wildly beautiful,<br />

biodiverse area that spans over 280,000ha."<br />

Another afternoon, I visited the local surfboard shaper and “Fish<br />

Skin Artist” Pat McCarthy aka P-Mac. Under the label “FOFS<br />

- Fish on Fish Skins” his art is hanging up on the walls of his<br />

board shaping shed. It’s a beautiful, unique and sustainable<br />

mixed media art form that the avid fisherman invented himself<br />

after brooding over the question of what he could actually do<br />

with the skins of fish that usually go straight into the bin or are<br />

fed to crows. Well, P-Mac found the solution: He first dries the<br />

skins of typical Western Australian fish, such as the Breaksea<br />

Cod, Nannygai, Mangrove Jack, and Barramundi, then fixes<br />

them onto special pieces of recycled wood (such as pieces from<br />

the old tanker jetty in Esperance), before putting several layers<br />

of clear surfboard resin on top and finally painting on the head<br />

and fins of the fish. I couldn’t resist ordering a custom Dhu fish<br />

to bring home to my hubby.<br />

After kiting pretty much every break around Esperance, it was<br />

time to venture into more remote realms. First up was the<br />

spectacular Cape Le Grand National Park. Founded in 1966,<br />

the 32,000-hectare national park is home to “Lucky Bay”, which<br />

has been scientifically declared twice as having the whitest sand<br />

in Australia. Matthew Flinders – the man who named Australia<br />

— gave Lucky Bay its name in 1802 when he took shelter here<br />

after being hit by a storm while sailing a perilous route through<br />

the archipelago in the HMS Investigator.<br />

I got “lucky” in Lucky Bay as well. The wind was blowing, a little<br />

swell was rolling in and I had it all to myself.<br />

One morning in the Cape Le Grand National Park, I hiked up<br />

the iconic Frenchman Peak, an impressive granite dome rising<br />

242m above sea level. The Aboriginal name for the peak, which<br />

resembles the hats worn by French troops in the 19th century, is<br />

Mandooboornup and it is an important site in the local culture.<br />

The absolute highlight of my road trip was without a doubt Cape<br />

Arid National Park. “Remote” gets a new meaning in this wildly<br />

beautiful, biodiverse area that spans over 280,000ha. The<br />

nearly untouched wilderness here is an important conservation<br />

area for 1100 plant species and more than 160 bird species,<br />

some of which are threatened or endangered. Migrating whales<br />

pass by headlands in late winter and spring. Most of the park<br />

is only accessible by four-wheel drive. Everything has to be<br />

brought in: water, food, a tent or swag and camping under the<br />

huge starry sky is the only option.<br />

After the Thomas River crossing, you can head east along the<br />

beach towards Cape Arid for 29 kilometres. The exhilarating<br />

feeling of pure freedom took up every single cell in my body,<br />

hitting the first stretch of snow-white beach, which is only safe to<br />

drive on low tide.<br />

Without any idea where I was going to roll out my swag or<br />

what dangers and adventures were lying ahead of me in this<br />

completely isolated corner of the world, I set off. Where phone<br />

coverage doesn’t exist and lonesome fishermen casting lines<br />

from the beach were the exception, where a small judgement<br />

error could turn into a full-blown nightmare in a matter of<br />

minutes, I felt at home.<br />

On a narrow section of the beach with super soft sand, my car<br />

started to sink and was stuck. With the tide rising, time was<br />

running out. I dropped the tyre pressure to 12psi and luckily got<br />

out before my Landcruiser fell victim to the Southern Ocean.<br />

Rocky headlands had to be traversed to get from one beach to<br />

the next. Without any tracks visible on the rocks, I needed to<br />

keep my eyes glued to the rocks a few metres just ahead. Due<br />

to the orientation and the geography of the 29km of coastline<br />

up to Cape Arid, you can find a beach with the wind from any<br />

angle, from fully offshore to fully onshore. With not a soul to<br />

be seen, plus, the thought of “Salisbury Island” and the great<br />

white shark nursery just off the coast here, where Discovery<br />

Channel’s “Laird of the Great White” was filmed, in the back of<br />

my head, it took quite a bit of convincing myself, to pump up a<br />

kite and go for a session.<br />

There is no better feeling than reviewing the day at nighttime, all<br />

alone on an endlessly long, snow-white sandy beach, under the<br />

Milky Way, and crawling into my swag, utterly stoked with small<br />

red sunburnt eyes.<br />

Getting up with the sunrise, feeling the fine, squeaky sand under<br />

my toes on my way to a morning dip in the most turquoise blue<br />

water, sipping a coffee from the camping stove and waiting for<br />

the wind to get stronger to go kiting, that was pure joie de vivre.<br />

But all dreams must come to an end. Eventually, I had to leave<br />

Cape Arid. I couldn’t hit the road back home to Margaret River<br />

without spending a few more days with Jaimen and his beautiful<br />

family. In the short time I’ve known them, they have become<br />

very dear to my heart. Some more epic kiting sessions with<br />

Jaimen’s drone above me, a legendary boat trip out into the<br />

breathtaking seascape of the Recherche Archipelago, and a<br />

visit to Esperance’s Lucky Bay Brewery marked the end of an<br />

unforgettable time.<br />

Hugging Jaimen, Jess and my little buddy Captain goodbye<br />

wasn’t easy. I programmed a different route into Google Maps<br />

for the way home. One more highlight was still on the menu:<br />

Wave Rock, also known as Katter Kich by the Noongar people.<br />

The 15m high and 110m long natural granite rock formation<br />

that is shaped like a tall breaking ocean wave was created by<br />

the erosive action of wind and water over millions of years. The<br />

red, brown, yellow and grey vertical stains on the rock, caused<br />

by rain washing chemical deposits (iron oxide and carbonates)<br />

down the surface, looked like hand-painted and add to its wavelike<br />

appearance.<br />

For the last sunset of this trip, I sat high up on the crest of<br />

the rocky wave and looked out over the surrounding desert<br />

wilderness reminiscing all the wild moments, crazy experiences<br />

and legendary kite sessions. But most of all, my heart and<br />

thoughts were with Jaimen, who had touched me deeply with<br />

his incredibly positive attitude, the love of life he exudes, his<br />

humour, infectious energy and his incredible family. This road<br />

trip has not only made me fall in love with my adopted home,<br />

Western Australia, all over again. I made new friends for life and<br />

that is the most beautiful outcome that one could wish for.<br />



Vinny Armstrong does a whip off a step-up jump at Red Bull Formation in Virgin, Utah, USA<br />

Image by Re Wikstrom / Red Bull Content Pool<br />


Vinny Armstrong & Robin Gooms<br />

kiwi women pushing new boundaries<br />

red bull formation, utah<br />

There are few sports that are more dominated by the highlight reel of failure than extreme<br />

mountain biking. Yet there are a group of Kiwi women who are not just amongst the best but<br />

leading the way. The penultimate organization that sets the benchmark of extreme Mountain<br />

biking focus on two kiwi women’s who show as clearly as it is possible the Kiwis can fly!<br />

Twelve of the best women's mountain bike freeriders have been pushing new boundaries in<br />

Southwest Utah as the third Red Bull Formation event saw "spectacular" progression as the<br />

likes of Hannah Bergemann and Camila Nogueira helped elevate the sport further and New<br />

Zealand's Robin Goomes threw the first-ever backflip at the event.<br />

After the first two events advanced the sport to exciting new levels in the women's arena, the<br />

third event saw 12 of the planet's best female riders chosen by judges to carve out thrilling<br />

new lines in Utah where they dug out brave lines down the dusty course before freeriding<br />

down the mountain.<br />

There were three dig days, one rest day - where they found community in each other and<br />

industry mentors - and three ride days, where the mountain was host to the gnarliest ever<br />

women's MTB freeriding.<br />

Founding organiser Katie Holden revealed: "The progression witnessed was spectacular and<br />

truly marks a turning point for women's freeride mountain biking. We have seen a tremendous<br />

amount of confidence from the riders. From tackling steep drops to choosing lines that played<br />

to their styles and incorporating tricks, we hit a major milestone."<br />

Following the final runs, athletes voted on the rider who ignited the sessions and "brought<br />

the spice" to the progression session with Argentine Nogueira receiving a trophy to mark the<br />

accolade.<br />

She enthused: "Winning this award is the perfect end to an epic event. My goal was to<br />

challenge myself with a daring line, one that would challenge my courage due to its exposure<br />

and where I would need to stay calm under pressure. I truly believe everyone riding today<br />

deserved this honour as they are my friends who continue to push and inspire me."<br />

Kiwi Goomes' historic backflip line started at the top Scissor Drop then ran through looker's<br />

right to end in the Snake Pit, the lower portion of the course that has a series of jumps and<br />

features.<br />


"Blind, technical and exposed is how I would describe<br />

this. I couldn’t see the landing until I was already in<br />

the air, the landing being fairly narrow, right next to<br />

a cliff, safe to say I had to be very precise".<br />

Image of Vinny Armstrong by Robin O'Neill / Red Bull Content Pool<br />

Quick fire with Vinny Armstrong:<br />

Describe yourself: Describing myself is probably one of the hardest<br />

things to do, but I see myself as someone who always likes to have fun<br />

and make everyone around me laugh. I think it’s good to not take life so<br />

seriously all the time and enjoy the little things.<br />

In such a high impact sport been dominated by men for so long how<br />

do you see the roll or influence women will have on the sport? I think<br />

the impact women have on the sport is awesome as it gets more people<br />

involved and riding bikes. It goes to show what’s possible and that women<br />

can achieve the same thing guys can do.<br />

How would you describe the sport to someone who doesn’t know it<br />

or never seen it? Riding bikes is not just the sport or competing. Its all<br />

about hanging out with your mates and having a good time except you’re<br />

on a bike and riding huge jumps hyping each other up to send it.<br />

watch<br />




"Robin Goomes' historic backflip line started at the top<br />

Scissor Drop"<br />

Image by Robin O'Neill / Red Bull Content Pool<br />



Paige in action at the Nias Pro June 2022

paige hareb<br />

our kiwi superstar<br />

privileged to be part of the journey<br />

Words by Steve Dickinson | Images by WSL<br />

Intimacy in sport is rare. Sports people hold everyone at arms-length for<br />

a number of reasons; often they just want to be judged by their results<br />

alone. However, one Kiwi sports star that we have watched grow up and<br />

have been privileged to be part of their journey is Paige Hareb. The stars<br />

simply aligned; we were there when she got her first big break at Piha,<br />

and I clearly remember the day she walked out of the water at Log Cabins<br />

in Hawaii, and it was confirmed she was on the World Tour. We have<br />

been there through the wins and the losses, the highs and the lows, the<br />

elation and the disappointments. In a sport dominated by men – Paige,<br />

and women like her, have been on the cutting edge of the push for<br />

equality for women which has created the platform for today’s successes.<br />

I first met Paige Hareb when she was about 12, long<br />

white ponytail, little skinny arms and already on her<br />

way to being a Kiwi surfing superstar. As Paige’s<br />

career started it coincided with Pacific Media (us,<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong>) launching Curl, a female surf magazine. In<br />

hindsight, we did see the birth and growth of women’s<br />

surfing as a credible sport, but when we started it<br />

was clear that there was no equality in the sport for<br />

women. I clearly recall at Piha that the women’s bikini<br />

contest winner got more money than the winner of<br />

the female surf competition, prize money given by<br />

the same sponsor! Local and international surfing<br />

associations would openly send the women out to<br />

compete when the surf was at its worst. When women<br />

paddled out, I would often be the only cameraman still<br />

standing on the beach shooting.<br />

As we became friends with Paige and her family and<br />

watched first-hand as she dealt with and struggled<br />

with all the issues of sponsorship, costs and sexism<br />

as a female surfer, those inequalities became very<br />

apparent. It seems most sports; soccer, ice hockey,<br />

and tennis all struggled with this same issues; quality<br />

of competition, recognition and equity in prize money<br />

and coverage.<br />

If you roll back annuls of time you have plenty of<br />

examples that women deserve equality; the likes<br />

of Billy Jean King (female) beating Bobby Riggs<br />

(male) in 1973 (which was in fact the most attended<br />

tennis match in US history with over 30,000 people),<br />

Kathrine Switzer No. 261, who tried to join in the<br />

all-male Boston Marathon course in 1967, Venus<br />

Williams pushing Wimbledon for equality which they<br />

eventually got. And in surfing the list is long; Keala<br />

Kennelly, Lane Benchley, Steph Gilmore all had their<br />

part to play in gaining that equality.<br />

The pay equality in surfing reached boiling point<br />

when this photo was published after the Ballito Pro<br />

Junior Series event in South Africa in June 2018 on<br />

Facebook. Here it shows Indonesia's Rio Waida with<br />

a cheque for 8000 rand and home surfer Zoe Steyn<br />

holding a cheque for half that amount!<br />

The subsequent furore on social media intensified the<br />

pressure on the surfing authorities and WSL made<br />

their announcement two months later of equity across<br />

the board.<br />

Steph Gilmore talking to InStyle magazine said: "We<br />

had just announced equal prize pay. And I realised,<br />

world titles are awesome, but what this stood for<br />

meant more. That was badass.”<br />

But equality is not just about sex, it’s about race and<br />

age and social standing. Surfing seems to be at the<br />

forefront of those battles and winning. We have had<br />

surfers on the world tour who grew up in poverty<br />

learning to surf on a piece of wood. We have the likes<br />

of Kelly Slater who at 50 is still winning major events<br />

against competitors that are a quarter his age. And as<br />

pay parity and equal opportunity have blossomed for<br />

women in surfing so has their competitive edge and<br />

quality of competition.<br />

Our own Paige Hareb is now 32 in a sport that is<br />

marketed at youth, Paige is still winning at a top level<br />

and looks to others like Kelly Slater as an example of,<br />

"if you want it bad enough you can just keep going".<br />

We caught up with Paige between sets and<br />

destinations to ask her about her latest win and life<br />

on tour...<br />


OK so how many years has it been now that<br />

you have been on Tour? I have been on the World<br />

Chamionship Tour for 8 years but I have been a pro<br />

surfer and travelling the world now for the last 14<br />

years (minus close to two years at home in NZ due<br />

to covid).<br />

What has been the highlight? Far out, so many<br />

good things over the years it’s hard to choose one.<br />

I think the main ones that will always be in my heart<br />

will be winning the Margaret River Pro in 2008 at<br />

the age of 17 to qualify for my very first year on the<br />

Championship tour. Then my very first event on the<br />

WCT at Snapper Rocks nearly beating Stephanie<br />

Gilmore at her home break and finishing 3rd. Last<br />

but not least, being part of the winning World Surf<br />

Team in the Founders Cup at Kelly Slater’s Surf<br />

Ranch. That wave and place is so surreal!<br />

What has been the worst? Losing and falling off<br />

tour always sucks and not knowing what’s next,<br />

whether to keep going or not. In the early days,<br />

always competing in bad surf conditions because<br />

whenever it got bad they would unfairly “just put the<br />

girls out”.<br />

What are the major changes you have seen? The<br />

equal prize money would be the biggest movement<br />

by far and makes me so proud to be a female pro<br />

surfer. It’s also more fair now with whatever the<br />

conditions at a competition, the contest director tries<br />

to make it as fair as possible. Female surfing has<br />

improved leaps and bounds since I first started, now<br />

there’s 12 yr old girls that can do big air reverses,<br />

the future is looking super bright for surfing and even<br />

more so in my opinion for female surfing.<br />

What are the major challenges you have faced?<br />

It was the bad prize money for women and having<br />

to rely on major sponsors which I went without for<br />

a couple of years, so that was hard to try and find<br />

enough money to keep going. I think the biggest<br />

challenge for me personally, was the decision<br />

whether to keep going or stop, both times I got<br />

knocked off the top tour (World Championship Tour)<br />

and the unknown of what I would do. Life after<br />

surfing was always scary.<br />

As women do you feel valued by the WSL and the<br />

way it operates? Yes, very much so, now more than<br />

ever, mainly for the equal prize money, equal amount<br />

of events and at the same locations as the men. The<br />

next step in my eyes would be to have the same<br />

amount of women as men on tour.<br />

Do you think people see you differently now than<br />

they did when you were younger? Hmm that’s a<br />

good question! I have no idea how people viewed<br />

me back then until now, no one has told me and I<br />

don’t really care what people think haha but as long<br />

as I have been and can be some kind of positive<br />

influence on someone then I’ll be happy with that. I<br />

think for close to 15years I have gone through many<br />

life stages from being a little carefree teenager,<br />

finding myself through my 20's and I would say more<br />

carefree again in my 30's.<br />


Nias turned on excellent conditions, allowing Paige to show she's still got what it takes to win.

Paige in winning form at the Nias Pro, 2022

Is Kelly Slater an anomaly or is there longevity in<br />

the sport of surfing? I still can’t believe it and don’t<br />

feel like I’m in my 30's yet. It had been 4 years since I<br />

had won an international comp, so that felt pretty good,<br />

but felt extra good to see that I can still do it in my 30s! I<br />

have always thought that surfing is a sport of longevity,<br />

there’s not many other sports where people actively and<br />

actually want to do it every single day, sometimes right<br />

up into their 80s or 90s! It’s definitely one of the only<br />

sports where it’s not just a sport, it’s a great lifestyle too.<br />

Any comments on how women’s surfing is now<br />

viewed (are there a little less bikini shots and a few<br />

more of the girls charging?) Yeah it’s nice to see a<br />

lot of the girls wearing what they want and not feeling<br />

the pressure from sponsors to wear less than what they<br />

want. I remember one year when Alana Blanchard was<br />

on tour, WSL brought in a rule that all photographers<br />

and filters weren’t allowed to shoot the girls when they<br />

were performing a bottom turn (because you might be<br />

able to see what they had for breakfast). It’s so good to<br />

see role models like Steph and Carissa choosing to surf<br />

in little shorts compared to g-strings, and I can see that<br />

influencing the younger girls in a good way.<br />

watch<br />


Nouria Newman first decent of Pucuno Falls - Image by Carl Zoch / Red Bull Content Pool<br />


nouria newman<br />

claiming world first<br />

descent of Pucuno falls in Ecuador<br />

Frenchwoman Nouria Newman is a dominant force in whitewater kayaking. Her<br />

astonishing new film, Wild Waters, (free to watch) follows her adventure as a kayaking<br />

nomad, where she claims the first descent of Pucuno falls in Ecuador and becomes the<br />

first woman to bag a first descent of 100ft+ (30.48m) waterfall drop into the bargain.<br />

After years at the forefront of her sport, claiming first descents around the world, and<br />

winning awards and recognition for her intrepid expeditions, it was in making a first<br />

descent of the Río Pucuno in Ecuador that Newman broke this latest boundary. In<br />

February of 2021, she successfuly dropped what are now known as Don Wilo’s Falls.<br />

In doing so, she became the first female kayaker to make a first descent of a falls over<br />

100ft, eclipsing the 82ft (25m) recorded by Christie Glissmeyer at Metlako Falls in 2009<br />

and winning herself a fifth consecutive Rider of the Year title at the Whitewater Awards.<br />

Now viewers can see exactly how she faced up to the challenge in the new<br />

documentary, Wild Waters. The film offers a dive into the adventurous existence of the<br />

freestyle kayaking legend. Film-maker David Arnaud was able to immerse himself in<br />

her daily life for two years to retrace her journey from childhood to this incredible new<br />

record.<br />

After a personal tragedy, Newman decided to leave for a globe-trotting adventure that<br />

she hoped would enable her to reconnect, not just with others with others, but also with<br />

herself. She explained: “It's not all about sports. On a social or mental level, it goes<br />

far beyond. We touch on universal subjects. That's the richness of this film and sport<br />

generally.”<br />

The film reveals the non-conformist personality behind the elite athlete who, at just<br />

30 years old, already has a huge list of achievements, including: three-time extreme<br />

kayaking world champion and five-time rider of the year.<br />

Watch Wild Waters in full on Red Bull TV.<br />

watch<br />


Nouria Newman at the point of No Return! - Image by Carl Zoch / Red Bull Content Pool<br />



Justine Dupont at Jaws in Hawaii - Image by Fred Pompermayer / Red Bull Content Pool

justine dupont<br />

taming giants<br />

Words and Images by Red Bull<br />

The great surf brand Rip Curl used to have a catch phrase for promotion saying, “only a surfer<br />

knows the feeling”, which is true. If you don’t surf or haven’t, you can look and go ‘wow’ but if<br />

you are a surfer and you look at these waves that Justine DuPont is riding it actually makes you<br />

uncomfortable. These are massive, death walls of water. Like climbing Everest there seems no<br />

fun in it, just the challenge and the constant threat of death. Yet Justine, who started life on the<br />

world championship stage, has made this her surfing pathway. There are a few other women,<br />

Maya Gabeira, Keala Kennelly to mention a few who have shone of the world stage of big wave<br />

surfing which is dominated by men. But giant waves do not differentiate between men and<br />

women it is the great leveler, the waves serve up the same natural equality for all which makes<br />

Justine DuPont’s success even more impressive.<br />

Surfer Justine Dupont is one of the world's best<br />

female big wave surfers. Her 2020/21 season was<br />

the most dominant performance big wave riding<br />

has ever seen. Her new documentary 'à la folie',<br />

which translates to "with a lot of passion", explores<br />

the highs and lows, the life-changing wipeouts and<br />

insane barrels, throughout her ground-breaking<br />

2020/21 season. She reveals what drove her careerdefining<br />

season and what it takes to level up your<br />

passion.<br />

Dupont's obsession with big waves has been<br />

something developed over years of exploring the<br />

ocean. She first started surfing aged 11 in Lacanau<br />

- down the coast from her birthplace of French city<br />

Bordeaux - when she stole her father's shortboard to<br />

sneak off to the beach.<br />

From there she began competing and a runner-up<br />

finish in the World Junior Championships in 2011<br />

announced her arrival on the shortboard scene<br />

before qualifying for the 2012 WSL Championship<br />

Tour where she sadly picked up a training injury the<br />

week before her first CT contest.<br />

Instead of letting the setback that cost her a coveted<br />

spot on the World Tour get her down, she went on<br />

to earn European Longboard titles and become the<br />

2019 ISA Stand Up Paddle World Champion.<br />

When she first tasted the adrenaline of tow surfing<br />

at Belharra, though, she finally found her true water<br />

sports calling and moved to Portugal to tackle the<br />

infamous Nazaré big wave whenever it broke.<br />

Two Nazaré Tow Challenge victories later, the<br />

solid natural footer's talents have seen her tackle<br />

Mavericks in California and Jaws in Maui - where she<br />

successfully navigated the best female tube ride of<br />

all time - as well as pick up numerous XXL Awards<br />

across several categories.<br />

Now 'à la folie' documents a fascinating year in the<br />

life of a woman at the top of her powers, travelling<br />

the world, riding giants and doing it while keeping her<br />

love for surfing at the top of the priority pile.<br />

The 30-year-old, whose boyfriend Fredo David is<br />

also her tow partner, revealed: "À la folie means 'with<br />

a lot of passion'. It does for me anyway, because<br />

otherwise, it means 'madness', and that's not what<br />

I see my surfing as. Last year was my best season<br />

yet, so it was a great feeling to have that all captured,<br />

to show off how I was feeling, how I do everything<br />

with my team, and all of the work beyond just the<br />

surfing. I'm never looking for a win. I surf for myself. I<br />

only care about the waves."<br />

Water sports star Kai Lenny, 29, declared: "The<br />

first time I met Justine was over at Nazaré. Pretty<br />

immediately I noticed her comfort level was really,<br />

really high, in one of the most treacherous oceans<br />

that I have ever experienced. Justine just struck me<br />

as someone highly dedicated to the game. She's a<br />

total badass and the kindest person possible."<br />

"It's nice to be recognised as one of the best big<br />

wave surfers in the world, for all sorts of reasons,"<br />

says Justine. "I've dedicated myself to Nazaré, to big<br />

waves, and it makes me feel like I'm doing the right<br />

thing. Being recognised means that I can follow my<br />

dreams and follow the storms and the waves I want<br />

to surf."<br />

Watch 'à la folie' documentary on Red Bull TV HERE.<br />

https://www.redbull.com/int-en/films/a-la-folie<br />

watch<br />



Justine Dupont at Nazare - Image Rafael G. Riancho / Red Bull Content Pool<br />


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There are so many inspiring women out there leaving their mark on the world, here's a snippet of some of<br />

those women who have lead the way in adventuring around the world...<br />

Fanny Workman (1859 – 1925)<br />

Fanny was one of the<br />

first women adventurers;<br />

climbing, exploring and<br />

cycling her way around the<br />

world (always wearing a<br />

skirt!). She was one of the<br />

first women to climb in the<br />

Himalayas and she wrote<br />

books about her experiences.<br />

She was ahead of her time,<br />

not only in the outdoors but in<br />

her campaign for equality, in<br />

a time when women were not<br />

allowed to vote.<br />

Sylvia Earle (born 1935)<br />

Sylvia has many strings to her<br />

bow, she is a marine biologies,<br />

oceanographer, explorer, author and<br />

lecturer. In 1970 she was selected<br />

to lead the first all-female team<br />

of aquanauts and in 1979 set the<br />

women’s depth record of 381m,<br />

which ahe still holds to this day.<br />

Her work in underwater research<br />

is vast and she was named Time<br />

<strong>Magazine</strong>’s Hero for the planet in<br />

1998 for her work protecting the<br />

ocean and it’s wildlife.<br />

"humans are the only species with the ability to dive deep in the sea, fly high in the sky, send instant<br />

messages around the globe, reflect on the past, assess the present and imagine the future." (sylvia earle)<br />

Junko Tabei (1939 – 2016)<br />

Junko was a<br />

mountaineer, author<br />

and teacher and the<br />

first women to climb<br />

Mount Everest. She<br />

reached the summit<br />

on May 16, 1975 and<br />

continued climbing<br />

up until her death in<br />

2016. She was 77.<br />

Lynn Hill (born 1961)<br />

A legendary rock climber, Lynn<br />

became the first person to freeclimb<br />

“The Nose”, a route on<br />

El Capitan in Yosemite Valley<br />

in 1993. The following year<br />

she became the first person<br />

to free-climb the same route<br />

in less than 24 hours. To put<br />

this in perspective, the second<br />

free ascent of The Nose was<br />

attempted in 1998 and took<br />

Scott Burke 261 days to reach<br />

the top! It was not until 2005<br />

that her record was broken.<br />


Steph Davis (born 1973)<br />

A rock climber, BASE<br />

jumper and wingsuit<br />

flyer, she has a bunch of<br />

credits to her name in the<br />

sport of climbing. In 1998<br />

Patagonia hired Steph as<br />

their first female “climbing<br />

ambassador” and in 2004<br />

became the first woman<br />

to free climb Salathé<br />

Wall on El Capitan.<br />

Despite losing both<br />

her ex husband, Dean<br />

Potter and husband,<br />

Mario Richard in wingsuit<br />

accidents, Steph still<br />

jumps 300 times a year.<br />

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 1973)<br />

Gerlinde became the<br />

first woman in the world<br />

to climb all 14 eightthousander’s<br />

without<br />

oxygen. In 2012 she<br />

was awarded “Explorer<br />

of the Year” by National<br />

Geographic.<br />

anna frost (born 1981)<br />

Kiwi long-distance runner,<br />

Anna Frost believes<br />

“women’s sustainable<br />

pain barrier, and urge to<br />

succeed”, make them<br />

ideal long distance<br />

runners and Anna has<br />

made her career doing<br />

just that. She won a<br />

range of 50km races<br />

winning the overall title in<br />

2010. In 2014 she won<br />

the first ever 100 mile<br />

race she entered, the<br />

Bear 100 Mile Endurance<br />

Run in Utah.<br />

Wasfia Nazreen (born 1982)<br />

Wasfia is a mountaineer,<br />

activist, environmentalist<br />

and social worker. She is<br />

the first Bangledeshi and<br />

first Bengali to complete<br />

the Seven Summits and<br />

was recognized by the<br />

National Geographic as<br />

one of their <strong>Adventure</strong>rs<br />

of the Year 2014/2015 in<br />

honour of her activism<br />

and commitment to<br />

empowering women in<br />

her work in the field of<br />

adventure.<br />

“All my life I was told about all the things I could not do rather than the things I could do. Often<br />

times I feel that I am living my life not just to fulfill my own dreams, but also to make up for my<br />

mother and aunts who couldn’t live their life to the fullest.” (Wasfia Nazreen)<br />

Pasang Sherpa Akita (born 1984)<br />

Pasang became<br />

the first woman in<br />

Nepal to become a<br />

mountaineering instructor<br />

and was the first Nepali<br />

woman to reach the<br />

summit of K2, despite<br />

being told as a child that<br />

it was “not a woman’s<br />

job”. As well as her own<br />

climbing achievements,<br />

Pasang was also involved<br />

in avalanche rescue<br />

missions at Everest Base<br />

camp during 2014 and<br />

2015.<br />

Sarah McNair-Landry (born 1987)<br />

Heralded as one<br />

of the world’s most<br />

accomplished female<br />

polar explorers, at age<br />

18 Sarah was part of<br />

an expedition that skied<br />

unsupported to the South<br />

Pole. The following year<br />

she led a dog sled team<br />

to the North Pole and by<br />

the time she was 19 she<br />

was the youngest person<br />

to have reached both<br />

poles. Amongst her many<br />

adventures she has also<br />

traversed the Greenland<br />

Ice Cap five times.<br />


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Frankie Sanders & Emily Warne<br />

leading the way to sustainability<br />

Local Dehy, a small food manufacturing company based in Lake<br />

Hawea, is taking on the big players in the industry by producing<br />

dehydrated meals for outdoor adventurers in home compostable<br />

packaging.<br />

The company’s founders, Frankie Sanders and Emily Warne,<br />

started making dehydrated meals out of necessity. Keen<br />

climbers, mountain bikers and trampers, the pair began cooking<br />

and dehydrating their own meals when they<br />

found there was an almost total lack of tasty,<br />

varied options available for non-meat eaters<br />

like themselves.<br />

“We wanted meals we could look forward to<br />

after a long day in the hills,” says Frankie.<br />

The pair started experimenting with curries,<br />

chilli beans and a non-meat Bolognese.<br />

After giving a few of these meals away to<br />

friends and family, they were soon being<br />

asked to provide more and more as word got<br />

around that, at last, tasty vegetarian fare was<br />

available for adventurers wanting lightweight<br />

meals for their missions.<br />

Despite Emily working full time at the Wānaka<br />

climbing gym and Frankie recovering from<br />

aggressive stage 3 breast cancer, they<br />

launched Local Dehy in 2017.<br />

With the purchase of a small commercial food<br />

trailer (now parked in the driveway of their<br />

Hawea home), Frankie and Emily set to work<br />

cooking small batches of their signature kumara chickpea curry,<br />

spaghetti Bolognese and Mexican chilli beans, initially making<br />

20 meals at a time and delivering them to a Wanaka retail outlet.<br />

Emily says that they were so excited to see their product in the<br />

store window that she nearly cried.<br />

Website orders soon started arriving from outdoor enthusiasts<br />

around the country looking for vegan and vegetarian meals. The<br />

pair increased capacity, expanded their dinner options to include<br />

Cajun jambalaya, Thai green curry and leek and lentil stew, and<br />

launched a range of vegan porridges and a hummus selection.<br />

Initially these meals were sold in traditional foil packaging, but<br />

Frankie admits that she never felt comfortable with the idea of<br />

foil bags ending up in landfills. After two years of searching for<br />

an alternative, they found Econic, a Hamilton-based company<br />

specialising in home compostable packaging.<br />

“It’s so awesome to finally be able to offer a sustainable<br />

alternative for outdoor adventurers,” says Frankie. “Many of<br />

our customers write to tell us they are so happy to have found<br />

a company selling delicious vegan food that has waste-free<br />

packaging. We are stoked.”<br />

At the start of 2022, Local Dehy made the decision to<br />

discontinue offering their meals in single-use foil bags and use<br />

only home-compostable packaging. At the<br />

same time the company made a big push<br />

towards sustainability by auditing their<br />

entire process chain, from the provenance<br />

of ingredients to packaging and shipping.<br />

Adopting the principles of a circular<br />

economy, Frankie and Emily committed to<br />

reduce, reuse, remanufacture and recycle<br />

as much as possible. They offer their<br />

customers reusable container options,<br />

send grain sacks to be upcycled into fence<br />

posts, wash and send all soft plastics<br />

for commercial recycling and recycle<br />

cardboard and tins. “We try to create as<br />

little waste and pollution as possible,” says<br />

Frankie. “We use environmentally friendly<br />

cleaning products to protect our wai, and<br />

even use cellulose-based packaging tape<br />

that is compostable.”<br />

During daytime hours their home’s solar<br />

panels power the food trailer and office,<br />

and they use their electric car to take meal orders into Wānaka<br />

for courier pick up.<br />

As part of the push to reduce emissions from food transport and<br />

to support local farmers, Local Dehy sources as much produce<br />

as they can from New Zealand. Frankie says this all goes hand<br />

in hand with their social and environmental sustainability ethic,<br />

and as a company to uphold kaitiakitanga.<br />

“Caring for our environment means taking responsibility for all<br />

processes in our manufacturing, including what happens to our<br />

product once it leaves us,” says Frankie. “It feels really good to<br />

know we are trying our best to protect Papatūānuku, while also<br />

enabling others to do so.”<br />

For more information about Local Dehy and to order their meals,<br />

visit www.localdehy.co.nz<br />


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Darran mountains<br />

northern fiordland<br />

Words and photos by Derek Cheng<br />

A guttural yelp escaped my lips, the kind that betrays the unexpected and<br />

the terrifying. My foot had slipped off the rock-face, and suddenly I was<br />

falling. Having placed no protective gear so far, the only possible outcome<br />

was a ground-fall.<br />

I slammed into the hard edge of a natural water trench at the base of<br />

a cliff in the remote, wild, intimidating Darran Mountains of northern<br />

Fiordland. I had only been a few metres off the ground, but the pain was<br />

immediate. It took me several moments to untangle from the crumpled<br />

heap I’d collapsed into.<br />

It was around then that I realised that I’d left my first aid kit in my<br />

backpack at our bivvy site at the top of the valley. We were a long way<br />

from there. We had abseiled into the valley, and then danger-walked—<br />

including lowering ourselves from handfuls of snowgrass—down<br />

challenging terrain to arrive at the base of this virgin 300m-high wall of<br />

rock. In other words, it had been quite involved to get to where we were,<br />

and we’d never been there before, meaning we had no idea about the<br />

best way back up.<br />

The plan had been to climb the wall, including a 150m chimney between<br />

the wall and a gargantuan mega-block sitting in front of it, followed by a<br />

150m headwall, before heading back to the bivvy that evening. My fall<br />

forced a change of plans.<br />

It was just after 1pm, and my immediate response was to insist that my<br />

climbing partners, Jimmy and Ben, attempt the chimney, given we were<br />

already here. How long could it take, anyway? It looked straight-forward,<br />

and my pain levels weren't astronomical.<br />

As with many first ascents, it predictably took much longer than<br />

anticipated. They returned in the evening light, just after 7pm, having<br />

chimneyed for hours on an all-time adventure. I was still too sore to climb,<br />

but I also happened to be on a lovely ledge of tussock, which was near a<br />

natural trench of running water. In staying the night, I’d be a bit cold and<br />

uncomfortable, but my life wouldn’t be in any danger. Jimmy would later<br />

name this place Camp Derek, given how it came to be.<br />

Jimmy Finlayson heading<br />

up an unclimbed crack<br />

line in the Darrans, in<br />

northern Fiordland.


Derek Cheng at the top of Point 2135, surrounded by the wild and remote Central Darrans.<br />

Jimmy left me his down jacket and I settled in for the night,<br />

watching their head-torches as they moved up a wall they hoped<br />

would be the quickest way out. Again, and not unpredictably,<br />

they got much more than they bargained for. It took four pitches<br />

of sparsely-protected climbing, meaning any falls would be long<br />

and potentially dangerous, before they topped out—thankfully<br />

fall-free.<br />

It was 3am when they reached the top of the valley. The following<br />

morning, Jimmy decided to take all of our gear from the bivvy<br />

spot to Camp Derek in case, due to my injuries, it was best to<br />

head back to civilisation from there. It was about 24 hours after<br />

my fall when they managed to return with my first aid kit, and<br />

some food. By then, my morning shivers had dissipated; Camp<br />

Derek was basking in afternoon sunshine.<br />

Tramadol and ibuprofen brought relief. It wasn’t until several<br />

weeks later that I realised I’d probably broken my tailbone. My<br />

self-diagnosis was based on the acute pain I felt when sitting or<br />

lying in certain positions. And there was one particularly telling<br />

symptom: for weeks, it was really painful to shit.<br />

—<br />

I’d met Jimmy and Ben the previous summer in Homer Hut,<br />

in Fiordland, and quickly learned that Jimmy was basically Mr<br />

Darrans; he always knew exactly where we were, which peaks<br />

we were looking at, and the best way to proceed from wherever<br />

we happened to be. Ben was also an ideal Darrans companion<br />

for his easy-going nature, rope expertise, and his penchant for<br />

calorie-rich butter, and his willingness to carry it to remote places.<br />

Having spied some neck-craning, virgin rock a few weeks earlier<br />

on his way out from Tutoko Valley, Jimmy had enlisted us for a<br />

first-ascent mission. I’d done some first ascents before but never<br />

in the steep, glacier-carved rock walls of the Darrans, where the<br />

scenery and the sense of adventure are the finest in the country.<br />

We had trudged in with several days of food and a week-long<br />

weather window, so I saw no point in heading down because<br />

of my tailbone woes. At worst, I could sit and relax on tramadol<br />

vibes at Camp Derek while Jimmy and Ben explored the cliffs.<br />

By the following morning, however, I felt sufficiently drugged up<br />

to put my butt to the test. The upper face of the detached megablock<br />

appeared to be blessed with twin cracks, while the lower<br />

face offered a few potential paths to access them. With more<br />

than a touch of nerves and an abundance of tramadol, I chose<br />

the line of least resistance.<br />

I went into a slight panic when, about eight metres up, my<br />

attempt to widen my stance in the middle of a stem corner was<br />

met with a sharp butt-pain. I had to improvise, climbing the face<br />

before traversing onto slabbier terrain.<br />

When we reached the upper face, I started up the left crack<br />

because the right one, uninvitingly, was full of loose blocks of<br />

rock. But higher up, I became increasingly tangled in mental<br />

knots and physical shakes, and I eventually slumped onto<br />

the rope. I offered the lead to Ben, who lowered me and took<br />

over, climbing above my high point where the crack became<br />

increasingly flora-filled.<br />

It’s not easy to trust handfuls of bushes with all of your weight<br />

on vertical terrain. With his forearms ablaze with lactic acid, Ben<br />

yelled down a warning to me that he was going to fall. I braced<br />

myself, but he’s decently heavier than me, and catching him<br />

catapulted me upwards and across the cliff, my head, shoulders<br />

and back rag-dolling against it as I spun uncontrollably.<br />

When I settled, I realised my right shoulder was bleeding. I had<br />

been slung 20m across the wall, which had eaten a 4cm-long<br />

chunk of flesh from it. Luckily, as if I was prepared for this exact<br />

scenario, I had a pocket full of tramadol.<br />

Ben eventually pulled back onto the wall, traversing to the right<br />

crack to avoid the tenuous bush-pulling. The real motivation for<br />

the day’s mission became apparent once we were on top of the<br />

mega-block; Ben had left his camera there after topping out the<br />

chimney two days earlier, and had wanted to retrieve it.<br />

The 150m headwall above us looked thin, hard and, in the<br />

blazing, afternoon sun, unappealing. We descended. Even<br />

though I’d added a bleeding shoulder to my woes, it felt<br />

invigorating to have climbed something new.<br />


Ben Grindle peers over the edge, with Point 2135 looming behind him.<br />

Jimmy Finlayson wades through the Tutoko River on his way back to<br />

civilisation after a week in the wilderness.<br />

Ben Grindle and Jimmy Finlayson cross the Tutoko River on their way to a<br />

remote and unclimbed cliff face.<br />

Ben Grindle and Jimmy Finlayson watch the sunset from Camp Derek.<br />



equip<br />

yourself!<br />

Left: Ben Grindle climbs his way up as cloud fills the lower valley.<br />

Above: Jimmy Finlayson enjoys a cool dip in a natural pool after descending to the river valley.<br />

We experienced the same high the following day, though inadvertently. Ben<br />

and I headed for what we thought was the South Ridge of Milne (grade<br />

18). But Milne is incorrectly labelled on the NZ Topo Maps app, which we<br />

were using to navigate, so we ended up climbing the south ridge of point<br />

2135–an easy and worthwhile scramble with two summits, and maybe a<br />

few moves of grade 14.<br />

We faced one final uncertainty on our last morning: a first descent from<br />

Camp Derek down to the Tutoko River. It started with abseils down slabs,<br />

which converged on water-worn channels and steep waterfalls. Avoiding<br />

these, we traversed and scrambled down verdant slopes to the north. When<br />

they, too, became too steep, we abseiled off shrubs and, at one point, even<br />

a flax bush.<br />

Eventually we had no option but to join the flow of water, where the downclimbing<br />

took on more of a canyoning aspect. As if to reward us, a pool of<br />

the clearest turquoise greeted us near the bottom, where a quick dip in the<br />

afternoon sunshine was obligatory. From there, with the biggest dangers<br />

finally behind us, we had a leisurely stroll alongside the Tutoko River to the<br />

Milford Road.<br />

So, what did I learn? I learned that it's easy to make mistakes, despite<br />

years of experience and, frankly, knowing better. I should have had my first<br />

aid kit close to hand. I should have anchored myself to the wall—which I<br />

did, but didn't do well—to avoid being catapulted across it when catching<br />

Ben's fall. I should have planned for the unexpected.<br />

The question of whether it’s worth it always hangs over any adventure to<br />

the remote parts of the Darrans. The approaches are long and challenging,<br />

the weather often volatile, and the climbing challenging not just in difficulty,<br />

but also in how safe it may or may not be. Such adventures are not for<br />

everyone.<br />

Add in the uncertainty of first-ascent hunting, and the question of whether<br />

it’s worth it only amplifies. But the potential rewards are also amplified.<br />

And if you don’t go, you'll never know.<br />

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kawekas<br />

Autumn Equinox<br />

Words and photos by Eric Skilling<br />

The Camping, the Tramping, and the Incident with the Hunter<br />

Mention that you are off exploring the Kawekas over Easter and most peoples’<br />

response will be ‘where?’. Good news for those who visit there to enjoy the bush,<br />

the birdlife and judging by the activity at night, the hunting, which must be epic.<br />

More on that later.<br />

When the local features are named The Rogue, Mad Dog Hill, and The Tits,<br />

clearly this place has been a playground for those from an era that is well and truly<br />

disappearing into our history. Strangely, after exercising all that imagination the<br />

most creative title they could dream up for the two lakes was ‘The Lakes’.<br />

Ours was a contrasting experience. A day of clear blue skies and light winds with<br />

expansive views from the Pacific to the peaks of Tongariro National Park. Followed<br />

by a day of cold, swirling cloud with landscapes limited to outcrops and peaks that<br />

ghosted their way out of the mists as we made our way across the tops.<br />

The perfect campsite before the storm arrived<br />

Drying out at MacIntosh Hut<br />


Heading towards Kiwi Saddle Hut<br />

Camping Out: One of the many highlights of tramping are the<br />

distinctly different experiences you can be guaranteed as you<br />

settle down each night.<br />

Late the first evening we arrived at the spacious and peaceful<br />

Kuripapango campsite. This is a gem of a place to camp. Set in<br />

a steep and narrow valley at the foot of Te Manihi, surrounded<br />

by thick podocarp forest, with water provided by the crisp and<br />

clear Ngauroro River. Each site is separated by thick stands of<br />

native bush or trees offering many sheltered spots to spend the<br />

night.<br />

By the time we had pitched tents a near full moon appeared<br />

over the surrounding ridges and lit up the valley. It was a<br />

pleasure to doze off to sleep listening to the river and the<br />

odd call from the local morepork. Whoever is responsible for<br />

managing the site deserve a free lifetime supply of whatever<br />

they wish.<br />

My second night up on the ridges could not have been more<br />

different. Several hours away up the ridge, Kiwi Saddle Hut<br />

(1240 metres) is nestled a few metres below the bushline at<br />

the base of a short but steep scree slope. I pitched my oneman<br />

tent in an idyllic setting on a cushion of fine beech leaves,<br />

surrounded by a ring of mountain beech trees.<br />

Sunset that night was a stunner. After walking back up the ridge<br />

above the hut, we watched the sun disappear in an epic display<br />

of orange, yellow and reds, exaggerating the rugged ridges of<br />

Ruapehu in the distance. In the other direction a full moon slid<br />

its way above the Pacific Ocean as the sea turned from a dark<br />

steel blue to black.<br />

In hindsight a night in the hut may have been the wiser choice<br />

that night. An energetic southerly started skimming its way up<br />

the ridge, bending the tops of the trees, encouraging me to<br />

tighten guy ropes and re-position tent pegs. Then, instead of<br />

dozing off to the soothing calls of a morepork, I was treated to a<br />

visit by the local possum, grunting and chattering its indignation<br />

just outside my tent.<br />

Shortly after midnight, I was woken up by the loud rush of the<br />

southerly in the treetops above me and the sprinkle of light<br />

drizzle on the tent. A short time later, as I knew it would, the<br />

drizzle that had been collecting in the trees above started the<br />

random and much louder splatters against the side of the tent.<br />

At this stage I was very grateful to those tent designers at<br />

Macpac.<br />

There was no way we would be enjoying the sunrise over<br />

Hawkes Bay, but hey, I got to sleep in an extra half hour.<br />


Variety of river crossing on our final day<br />

Our third night was spent at Macintosh Hut several hundred<br />

metres below the tops, safely protected from those gusty southerly<br />

winds. Nicely placed on a small grassy flat overlooking a small<br />

wetland, surrounded by lush, mature forest, this is justifiably a<br />

popular hut, especially for hunters. Equinox is the time of the roar,<br />

so instead of the howl of wind we got to enjoy the high-pitched<br />

whistle and he-haw of sika deer throughout the night as they<br />

wandered around the valley asserting themselves. Sika are a<br />

pest, but somehow it all feels a bit more remote and wild listening<br />

to the roar.<br />

The Tramping: As is so often the case in New Zealand, you step<br />

out of the car park and then either cross a river or climb straight<br />

up a hill. This time it was a very manageable 500-metre climb<br />

to Kuripapango (1250 metres) on a warm cloudless day, with a<br />

gentle southerly breeze keeping us comfortably cool. Bliss.<br />

Beginning amongst some tall pines, the trail winds its way through<br />

thick fern which clung to our boots and soaked our gaiters. This<br />

became scattered stands of juvenile wild pine as we reached the<br />

summit.<br />

Once onto the ridge the track disappeared into the stillness of<br />

beech forest, home for a few piwakaka, bellbirds and robin. At the<br />

first clearing where we were greeted by the welcoming view of the<br />

mighty Ruapehu and the coned tip of Ngauruhoe, both looking a<br />

lot closer than I had expected. To the east Hawkes Bay curved<br />

round towards the cliffs of Cape Kidnappers, although Cooks Horn<br />

maunga hid any sign of the city.<br />

The next day made us appreciate the blue skies of the previous<br />

day. Setting off into the mist, rugged up in beanies, scarves,<br />

gloves, layers of merino and Gore-Tex, we followed the ridgeline<br />

to the highest point at Kaiarahi (1507 metres). Instead of<br />

spectacular vistas of the region we were buffeted by a cold wind<br />

which turned the drizzle into a saturating shower and kept visibility<br />

dropping as low as 50 metres. The terrain ahead became a<br />

mystery until it materialised out the gloom. The upside was the<br />

greens, whites and even purples of the alpine plants stood out<br />

under the varnish of water.<br />

Clumps of thick beech forest on the leeward side became havens of<br />

calm with occasional cries of native birds, relishing the rain. Despite<br />

the cold and damp, spirits were high amongst the group, and we<br />

kept up a good pace and arrived at Macintosh hut a lot earlier than<br />

expected. It was a pleasure to enjoy the view from the deck, a cup<br />

of hot, sweetened coffee a gingernut, and more banter.<br />

It took a bit longer than we expected to make our way back to<br />

the carpark on the final day. Halfway along a well-marked path<br />

Karen consulted the app on her phone and discovered we were<br />

well off the designated path and gaining altitude when we should<br />

have been heading down. We backtracked and found the original<br />

path had been blocked off with a pile of manuka bush. Thanks to<br />

Karen this was a short diversion, and we were only a few minutes<br />

late by the time we reached the Tutaekuri River crossing.<br />

Incident with the Hunter in the Bush<br />

Sometimes conveniences are just not that inconvenient. Such<br />

as on the track. Finding myself caught short I dropped my pack,<br />

grabbed a roll of the finest triple-ply, and bashed my way 20 or<br />

30 metres into the bush. Stepping behind the largest tree trunk<br />

I could find, I ripped some branches off a small tree and began<br />

digging. ‘Some-time-later’ I was just about to make my way back<br />

to the path when the roar of a stag made me freeze.<br />

It was close. Very close. Surely it would have been scared off by<br />

the sound of my bush-bashing? I began to scan the bush around<br />

me and then saw a flash of bright yellow a short distance away.<br />

Realisation dawned on me. I was being hunted! Suddenly the<br />

branches of the trees around me looked like a mass of antlers – 8,<br />

10, 12 pointers seemed to surround me.<br />

I managed to stammer out a “Hey! Oi! You right mate!” A pause,<br />

and then “yeah mate” came back at me through the trees. The<br />

relief I had experienced moments earlier paled into insignificance<br />

compared to the liberation I felt at that moment.<br />

Cam the hunter turned out to be a good keen bloke, Having<br />

already bagged a stag earlier that day, he was heading back to<br />

the hut to collect his gear before heading out replete with 20kg<br />

of fresh venison. Thanks for not shooting me Cam. You added a<br />

unique but unwelcome thrill to a memorable trek. A bright yellow<br />

cap is on my shopping list.<br />

The Kaweka Range<br />

There are a lot of people who care about this place. Some<br />

invaluable work has been done to protect kiwi and the forest is<br />

regenerating after widespread burn-off in mid 1950s. The vistas<br />

are unique, the huts are well placed and well maintained. What<br />

more can I say.<br />

Thanks also to Jetboil, Macpac, Backcountry Cuisine, Keen and<br />

Karen’s App.<br />



UNDER ICE.<br />

SERVED<br />

OVER ICE.<br />

#OpenFor<strong>Adventure</strong><br />

TheShackletonWhisky.com<br />

Please enjoy Shackleton responsibly

“The harsh climate and remoteness of the Mackenzie<br />

demanded strength of its men and woman, steel, a breadth<br />

of vision and self-sufficiency that would grow, in human<br />

terms, to match their grand environment. In later years<br />

it was said there was something special about the people<br />

who lived in the Mackenzie, an heroic proportion, and that<br />

when they spoke of ‘going down’ to the coast there was<br />

something more than physical about the descent.”<br />

Pattern of Water - The Great Southern Lakes of New Zealand by Philip Temple<br />



REGION<br />

*<br />

mackenzie region<br />

someplace special<br />

The folks who call this special place home all have<br />

something in common: passion for their unique region,<br />

and genuine high-country hospitality. The towns of<br />

Twizel, Lake Tekapo and Fairlie provide you with all<br />

you need to enjoy this paradise: quality cafés, bars,<br />

and eateries; shops specialising in outdoor gear; and a<br />

variety of accommodation to choose from.<br />

Those who love the Mackenzie keep coming back for<br />

good reason: the larger-than-life scale of the gold,<br />

white and turquoise landscape; the utter silence and<br />

tranquillity; and the sparse, denuded landscape that<br />

reduces everything to the most simple and uncluttered<br />

elements. It’s a place to lose yourself and allow the<br />

calmness and equanimity of the outdoors to reduce your<br />

human concerns and schedules to a pervading ‘right<br />

here right now’ mindset.<br />

Read on for our suggestions on some unique things to<br />

see and do in our Legendary Mackenzie!<br />


Valley -Image by Hollie Woodhouse

Above: She's on the Fly<br />

Right: She's on Skis - Image by Alpine Recreation<br />

She’s On Skis<br />

Carving your own turns on fresh, unmarked snow is<br />

one of the joys of backcountry skiing. Add to that no<br />

queue lines and a sense of being the only people in the<br />

world, and you’ve got a compelling case to head into the<br />

mountains for some backcountry adventures!<br />

Join a fun-filled week of ski touring and exploring<br />

stunning glaciers with “She’s On Skis”, Alpine<br />

Recreation’s girls-only group, guided by two of NZ's<br />

select few female ski guides. The groups typically base<br />

themselves at Kelman, Tasman Saddle, Centennial,<br />

Pioneer or Plateau Huts, and undertake day tours<br />

from there. Depending on conditions and group ability<br />

some very fine peaks may be climbed on skis: Elie de<br />

Beaumont, Minarets, Hochstetter Dome and many more.<br />

Get your ladies together and create your own unique<br />

adventure in a truly epic setting!<br />

She’s On The Fly<br />

Hannah Clement’s childhood was spent exploring<br />

outdoors with her dad and brothers. From there a love<br />

and passion for the wilderness was born, and Hannah<br />

ended up becoming New Zealand’s first registered fulltime<br />

female professional fly fishing guide. She hopes to<br />

inspire more girls and women to become involved in the<br />

outdoors.<br />

Starting her own fly fishing company ‘She’s On The Fly’<br />

Hannah is now busy running tours around the South<br />

Island. The Mackenzie is a special place for her to<br />

take clients to catch brown and rainbow trout. You can<br />

opt a full day guiding, multi-day adventures, and even<br />

helicopter camp-outs.<br />

There’s something special about seeing nature from the<br />

perspective of being waist deep in a river. Watching a<br />

falcon flying overheard and tracking its shadow as it falls<br />

on the water, seeing mountains and trees rise out of the<br />

landscape, and the rippling water coursing around your<br />

body as you commune with the elements. Fly fishing<br />

takes patience but is hugely rewarding. It’s a natural<br />

stress reliever that helps lower blood pressure, reduce<br />

stress hormones, and decrease muscle tension.<br />

From the initial choosing of the right fly for the right time<br />

of day, to gracefully casting the line over the water, and<br />

finally the rush of excitement as a trout sucks the fly<br />

into its mouth – this is why fly fishing is addictive and<br />

rewarding!<br />



Above: Alpine Guides Barron Saddle Ski Touring / Below: Macaulay Hut, Image by Hollie Woodhouse<br />

Barron Saddle Ski Touring<br />

Macaulay Hut<br />

From their beginnings in 1966, Alpine Guides have<br />

remained committed to honest expectations, safety,<br />

reliability, and a philosophy built on lessons gleaned<br />

from decades of guiding in the mountains. They’ve<br />

fostered generations of skiers, climbers and guides<br />

– providing them with opportunities for further<br />

adventures.<br />

Join them for a three-day excursion on the Barron<br />

Saddle, one of Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park’s<br />

classic ski tours. This is for experienced and<br />

competent ski tourers with some alpine climbing<br />

experience. If you don’t have these skills then you<br />

can always look at joining one of their climbing<br />

school courses or backcountry ski touring camps.<br />

The Barron Saddle tour is available from mid-<br />

August to spring, during the time when snow<br />

conditions are usually optimum. At an elevation<br />

of 1,995 metres, the Barron Saddle Hut is located<br />

at the head of the Mueller Glacier looking into the<br />

Dobson Valley. The hut sleeps eight and is a cozy<br />

barrel in the mountains with solar powered lights<br />

and basic amenities. There are some side summits<br />

available for the right party in the right conditions,<br />

with backups for avalanche risk/poor weather.<br />

Looking for a nice modern hut to spend a weekend<br />

away? Macaulay Hut is well-looked after and has 14<br />

bunk beds, cooking, heating, lighting, mattresses,<br />

non-flush toilet and tap water. It’s a great base to<br />

explore the surrounding valleys, streams and rivers.<br />

Macaulay Hut is owned by the Mackenzie Alpine<br />

Trust and the recommended donation is $10 per<br />

person. The hut is located in the Sibbald Mountain<br />

Range north of Lake Tekapo. The track starts at the<br />

end of the shingle Lilybank Road, and is 18km long<br />

and suitable only for 4WD as there are some river<br />

crossings and boulders to avoid. Another option is<br />

to leave your vehicle in a designated parking area<br />

and cross the river on foot and walk to the hut.<br />

Mountain biking or horse riding are other options to<br />

reach the hut.<br />

Once at the hut it’s up to you whether to keep<br />

exploring the local area, or simply unpack, open a<br />

bottle of wine, and sit in the sunshine and marvel<br />

at the pristine location. You’ve arrived and there’s<br />

nothing more to concern yourself with other than<br />

the easy tasks of enjoying dinner and playing some<br />

cards well into the star-studded night with your<br />

companions.<br />


Above: BeSpoke Bike Tours - image by Mitchell Clark Creative<br />

Right: Images compliments of Tekapo Wellness<br />

BeSpoke Bike Tours<br />

Annie O’Sullivan grew up in the North Island to farming parents and loved<br />

physical activity, especially in the outdoors. Later on she became a multisport<br />

athlete and outdoor education teacher. Annie chose to quit teaching<br />

and start her own business because she liked the idea of linking her<br />

passion with work, and working for herself. After noticing there were no bike<br />

businesses at Lake Tekapo, Annie seized the opportunity and launched<br />

BeSpoke Bike Tours, now entering their fifth season.<br />

In 2014, Genesis Energy closed the Tekapo Canal road to cars, which<br />

opened up the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail’s alternate start from Lake Tekapo.<br />

This move has seen an increasing amount of cyclists choosing to begin their<br />

315km adventure from Lake Tekapo, removing the need for a helicopter<br />

crossing across the Tasman River at official start Aoraki/Mount Cook<br />

National Park. Cycling on the canal road is easy (so long as it’s not windy!)<br />

and the views are expansive in the largest sense of the word. The golden<br />

grasslands stretch away unbroken until reaching the faraway mountain<br />

ranges, while being crisscrossed with canals of the most vivid turquoise<br />

and sea-green colours. You’ll pass by people fishing for those recordbreaking<br />

trout and salmon, and enjoying the tranquillity of the grandly sparse<br />

landscape.<br />

An interesting ride offered by BeSpoke Bike Tours is to start from Dog<br />

Kennel Corner, over the Mackenzie Pass, and around to finish in Burkes<br />

Pass. The ride is a pleasant 40km, off the beaten track, and a chance to<br />

enjoy the unparalleled wide-open spaces of the Mackenzie Region away<br />

from the highways. On this ride, you can dig into the history of the area,<br />

including the James MacKenzie Memorial, a three-sided obelisk with the<br />

inscription in English, Māori and Gaelic: “In this spot James Mackenzie, the<br />

freebooter, was captured by John Sidebottom and the Māoris Taiko and<br />

Seventeen and escaped from them the same night.”<br />

It was back in 1855 when James was caught with 1,000 sheep that were<br />

allegedly stolen from a station near Timaru. Several escapes, imprisonment,<br />

road gang work, a mistrial controversy, and a subsequent pardon made<br />

him into a folk legend. The local farmers resented the power of wealthy<br />

landowners, and his pardon was popular in the frontier society that hailed<br />

James as a shepherd, drover and thief extraordinaire. And thus the<br />

area, known as Te Manahuna to the Māori, became widely known as the<br />

Mackenzie Region.<br />

Wellness Retreats<br />

Arriving at Lake Tekapo, with the majestic mountains<br />

and stunning lake, you can just feel your worries melt<br />

away. This special setting makes it the ideal wellness<br />

destination for retreats, yoga classes and workshops.<br />

Tekapo Wellness was founded by Penny Wilson, a<br />

Lake Tekapo resident who is passionate about sharing<br />

this stunning location with visitors to the region.<br />

With a background in human nutrition and exercise<br />

science, Penny says Lake Tekapo is perfect as it<br />

allows her to combine her passion for health with<br />

her love for the mountains and the outdoors. The<br />

most rewarding role of her work is hosting women on<br />

retreats and workshops, and seeing the difference that<br />

a bit of time, space and encouragement makes.<br />

In addition to yoga and relaxation, a series of<br />

workshops helps participants to explore and learn<br />

tools for positive change. They also enjoy some down<br />

time to walk, read or sleep, and top it off with delicious<br />

whole foods.<br />

Penny enjoys working alongside other local<br />

businesses, recently trialling Wellness Wednesdays<br />

at Tekapo Springs with yoga, hot pools, spa and<br />

massage. In September she will be heading for the ski<br />

hills with a ‘mountain magic’ yoga and ski package.<br />

She is also very excited to be taking her overnight<br />

retreats into the backcountry next summer – watch this<br />

space!<br />


Come cycling in stunning<br />

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> Lake Dunstan Trail<br />

> Otago Central Rail Trail<br />

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Call the experts at Bike It Now!: 0800 245 366<br />

Clyde Bike Shop and Tour office open 7 Days<br />

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Chickfly Bamboo Leggings High Rise or Low Rise<br />

$119.00<br />

Chickfly leggings are made with soft,<br />

strong, stretchy and sustainable<br />

bamboo fabric, coloured with organic<br />

dyes. Our patented fly is held together<br />

by tension, creating a seamless,<br />

flattering, soft, and easy-to-use feature<br />

in the most comfortable and stylish<br />

black legging that every woman needs<br />

not only for style but for convenience<br />

and functionality.<br />


patagonia Switchback Sports Bra $89.99<br />

Offering breathability and comfort without<br />

affecting support or performance, the crossback<br />

straps provide reinforcement (midsupport),<br />

while the lightweight stretch band<br />

dries quickly. Fair Trade Certified.<br />


Macpac Women’s 220 Merino Long Sleeve Top $119.99<br />

A staple for any adventurer, made from<br />

midweight merino wool for natural warmth,<br />

temperature regulation, and odour<br />

resistance. 18.5 micron ensures next-to-skin<br />

softness, making this thermal base layer<br />

ideal for resort riding, light activity, and postadventure<br />

relaxing.<br />

Also available in men’s sizes.<br />


Macpac Women’s Prothermal Long Sleeve Fleece Top $149.99<br />

Technical fleece for high-performance activity.<br />

Designed in partnership with the New Zealand<br />

Alpine team for breathable warmth that doesn’t<br />

compromise weight. Made using Polartec®<br />

Power Grid fleece to wick moisture and<br />

Polygiene® technology to help prevent odour.<br />

Also available in men’s sizes.<br />


rab Superflux Hoody $199.95<br />

Whether you’re hiking in the hills or scaling a<br />

rockface, the Superflux Hoody is tailor-made to keep<br />

you comfortable, composed and in control during<br />

high-intensity sport.<br />


rab Filament Pull-on $169.95<br />

Embrace extreme sport with comfort and confidence.<br />

At 213g, the Filament Pull-on is a lightweight stretch<br />

fleece mid-layer that fully warrants its place on any highenergy<br />

trip.<br />



outdoor research Women’s Aspire II GORE-TEX Jacket $429.99<br />

2-layer GORE-TEX® for waterproof, breathable and<br />

lightweight performance. Features adjustable hood,<br />

drawcord hem, and hook-and-loop cuff closures.<br />

Stows into its hand pocket. 332g (medium) also<br />

available in black. XS-XL<br />


rab Cirrus Flex 2.0 Hoody $299.95<br />

Featuring fully recycled synthetic PrimaLoft® Silver<br />

Insulation Luxe and stretch fleece side panels, the<br />

Cirrus Flex 2.0 Jacket is a lightweight, low-maintenance<br />

insulating layer always earning its place in your pack.<br />


rab Women’s Cubit Stretch Down Vest $349.95<br />

For a quick boost of warmth, the Cubit<br />

Stretch Down Vest filled with 700FP<br />

recycled down is the perfect everyday vest<br />

on a cold winter’s day.<br />


rab Xenair Alpine Light Jacket $349.95<br />

Adaptable, lightweight and versatile,<br />

the Xenair Alpine Light Hoody is a<br />

dual weight fill, synthetic insulated<br />

jacket that excels in mixed conditions<br />

and start stop activities.<br />


outdoor research Archangel GORE-TEX Jacket $999.99<br />

Built for and by alpine climbers for<br />

protection from the elements with 3-layer<br />

GORE-TEX® Pro and full mobility with a<br />

3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro Stretch panel<br />

along the upper back. Features a trim fit,<br />

pit zips and pack-and-harness-compatible<br />

pockets. 471g (medium)<br />


rab Microlight Alpine Jacket $399.95<br />

With its active fit, 100% recycled<br />

down and fabrics, and body mapped<br />

baffles, the Women’s Microlight<br />

Jacket is the ultimate multipurpose<br />

women’s down jacket.<br />




rab Cubit Stretch Down Hoody $499.95<br />

From long evenings and epic sunrise missions to<br />

casual days at the crag, the Cubit Stretch Down<br />

Hoody is versatile and warm. Offering functionality<br />

and style for everyday outdoor adventures, this jacket<br />

combines ground-breaking weaving techniques,<br />

innovative stretch technology and the highest quality<br />

P.U.R.E. recycled down for next-level comfort.<br />

The Cubit is insulated with top performing 700 fill<br />

power P.U.R.E. recycled down that has been finished<br />

with Nikwax hydrophobic treatment, giving a second<br />

life to down that might otherwise end up in landfill.<br />

The down-filled hood has a stretch binding to give a<br />

close, secure fit even on windy days.<br />


Macpac Women’s Sundowner Down Jacket $429.99<br />

Keep warm on cool-weather hikes.<br />

Pertex® Quantum recycled nylon lets<br />

600 loft water resistant HyperDRY<br />

duck down fully loft to maximise thermal<br />

efficiency. An additional DWR coating<br />

encourages water to bead and roll off the<br />

fabric’s surface. The high chin has a soft<br />

lining, and the hood can be unzipped and<br />

removed as well. Also available in men’s<br />

sizes.<br />


Macpac Women’s Icefall Down Jacket $499.99<br />

Macpac’s highest performing down jacket,<br />

developed with the New Zealand Alpine<br />

team for weight-conscious climbers. 800 loft<br />

water resistant HyperDRY goose down<br />

fill and PrimaLoft® Gold synthetic insulation<br />

provides warmth in damp conditions.<br />

Pertex® Quantum recycled nylon made<br />

with interlocking Y Fuse yarns for maximum<br />

performance and longevity. Also available<br />

in men’s sizes.<br />


patagonia Nano-Air® Jacket $379.95<br />

This jacket was made to be worn for the<br />

entirety of your aerobic, start-stop alpine<br />

missions, so you’re never slowed down<br />

by changing layers. Warm, stretchy and<br />

breathable it’s Fair Trade Certified sewn.<br />



Cotopaxi Teca Cálido Jacket $249.99<br />

Two looks, one jacket – for year round versatility. The Teca<br />

Cálido is the most sustainable reversible jacket made from 100%<br />

repurposed fabric – shell & insulation.<br />


Macpac Women’s Copland Raincoat $429.99<br />

Make the most of big hikes in bad weather. 3-layer<br />

Pertex® Shield fabric is durable, waterproof,<br />

windproof and breathable. An additional DWR coating<br />

increases protection, and a longer cut ensures plenty<br />

of coverage. The hood can also be rolled away and<br />

secured. Also available in men’s sizes.<br />


Cotopaxi Teca Fleece Pullover $189.99<br />

Sustainably-minded, super<br />

cosy and colourful - the Teca<br />

Fleece is a must have layer for<br />

all adventures. Consciously<br />

created from remnant fabric<br />

and recycled materials.<br />


outdoor research Cirque II Pants $249.99<br />

4-season pants for your highoutput<br />

alpine adventures. Features<br />

avalanche beacon pocket and a<br />

harness-compatible waist. Water,<br />

wind and abrasion resistant.<br />

Movement-mirroring stretch and<br />

unmatched breathability.<br />


outdoor research Voodoo Pants $159.99<br />

Perfect for climbing and walking<br />

adventures and still comfortable<br />

for spring ski tours. Water and<br />

wind-resistant, stretchy UPF<br />

50+ soft shell fabric. Available in<br />

black and charcoal.<br />



Cotopaxi Del Día Bags & Packs $79.99-$469.99<br />

Del Día gear uses 100% repurposed fabric – keeping<br />

perfectly good materials out of landfill, putting them<br />

into the hands of thoughtful adventurers like you.<br />


Akktive High Performance women's Boardshorts usd$45.00<br />

Designed by WSL Big Wave World Surfing Champion<br />

Keala Kennelly. 4-way stretch fabric with durable<br />

elasticity & soft texture is comfortable, breathable,<br />

and lightweight in both dry and wet conditions<br />


MERRELL Bravada Sunset Print - Women’s $229.00<br />

This female focused hiker features the fit and feel of a<br />

sneaker with the traction and performance of a hiker to<br />

bring the wearer lightweight and stable comfort while out<br />

on the trial.<br />


MERRELL Antora 2 Eco Dyed - Women’s $259.00<br />

The Antora is uniquely tailored to a Woman’s foot with sneaker light<br />

comfort mixed with confidence boosting support and traction. This<br />

version of the Merrell best selling trail walker/runner is made with<br />

solution dyed yarns, a process that uses less water and energy<br />

compared to traditional dyeing methods.<br />


MERRELL Moab 3 Mid Waterproof - Women’s $299.00<br />

The #1 hiking shoe in the world just got better. The<br />

Moab 3 family is now made more comfortable, with<br />

more eco-friendly material choices and more stabile<br />

with great grip for any trail. This Mid features a<br />

waterproof liner to keep your feet dry while out hiking.<br />


MERRELL Siren 3 Gore-Tex $319.00<br />

Designed specifically for women, this hiker is built with Q Form 2<br />

technology and a Vibram Megagrip outsole for confidence no matter<br />

the terrain. Featuring a lightweight mesh upper and a GORE-TEX<br />

waterproof membrane for exceptional breathability performance.<br />



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Give your feet a comfy break after a day of adventure<br />

and try the comfiness and softness of 100% natural<br />

wool. Available in slipper, shoe and boot with a<br />

leather or rubber sole. Get natural, get cosy and get<br />

yourself some glerups.<br />


SALEWA RAPACE GTX $549.90<br />

The Rapace GTX is a lightweight mountaineering boot with a hardwearing<br />

nubuck upper with waterproof breathable GORE-TEX®<br />

protection. The 3F System provides ankle support, flexibility and a<br />

perfect fit. Our Bilight TPU technology and Nylon + 27% Fiberglass in<br />

the midsole ensures an ergonomic hold and allows the use of semiautomatic<br />

crampons. There’s a full rubber rand for protection against<br />

rock and scree, and the Vibram WTC outsole has an aggressive tread<br />

pattern that gives good traction yet provides a natural feel and secure<br />

grip on mixed terrain.<br />

Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 740 g (W) 615 g (pictured)<br />



Our Mountain Trainer Mid GTX is a lightweight alpine trekking boot<br />

with a suede leather upper and a waterproof breathable GORE-TEX®<br />

Performance Comfort lining. At the ankle, the Flex Collar allows<br />

natural movement and the 3F System provides flexibility, support<br />

and a blister-free fit. Underfoot we feature a dual-density Bilight TPU<br />

midsole and a Vibram® WTC outsole.<br />

Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 552 g (W) 482 g (pictured)<br />



The Alp Trainer 2 Mid GTX has a suede leather and stretch fabric<br />

upper with a protective rubber rand. Featuring a GORE-TEX®<br />

Extended Comfort lining for optimal waterproofing and breathability.<br />

The customizable Multi Fit Footbed (MFF) with interchangeable layers<br />

allows you to adapt it to the unique shape of your foot; Climbing Lacing<br />

right to the toe allows for a more precise fit, while the Vibram® Alpine<br />

Hiking outsole covers a wide spectrum of mountain terrain.<br />

Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 552 g (W) 482 g (pictured).<br />



Made for alpine hiking and long backpacking routes – our<br />

lightweight, comfortable and supportive mid-cut boot performs well<br />

on rock and technical terrain. The waterproof, breathable GORE-<br />

TEX® lining makes it ideal for 3-season use, from higher activity<br />

levels in summer, to rain, mud or lingering snow.<br />

Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 565 g (W) 465 g (pictured)<br />



exped Women’s Comfort -10 Down Sleeping Bag (Medium) $599.99<br />

Women's-specific design fits to 180cm (small version available fits<br />

to 170cm) 3D footbox has a separate zip so you can open it out.<br />

Side arm zip opposite the main zip lets you use both arms without<br />

leaving the warmth of the bag, 675g RDS-certified European duckdown.<br />

1190g<br />


Rumpl Nanoloft Puffy Blanket – Crisp Fade $329.99<br />

Keeping you toasty wherever you go. Our<br />

Blankets combine our synthetic insulation (100%<br />

post-consumer plastics) with the same technical<br />

materials found in premium puffer jackets.<br />


kiwi camping Tuatara Hard Shell Rooftop Tent $3999.00<br />

Our lowest profile rooftop tent at only 17cm. The Hard Shell<br />

can be fully set up in under 1-minute with the pop-up gas<br />

struts. Cargo tray sold separately.<br />


kiwi camping Tuatara Hard Shell Tent<br />

Top Rails $89.99<br />

Designed to fit our Hard Shell Rooftop<br />

tent for added storage capacity for<br />

your adventures. Great for surfboards,<br />

kayaks and other gear.<br />


Kiwi camping Matai Camper +5° Sleeping Bag<br />

$99.99<br />

The Matai Camper is a lightweight sleeping<br />

bag ideal for general camping. Includes our<br />

semi-tapered shape design and adjustable<br />

draft collar to trap warmth.<br />


Kiwi Camping Mamaku Pro -0°C Sleeping Bag<br />

$129.00<br />

The Mamaku Pro provides exceptional warmth<br />

on cold adventures. The semi-tapered design<br />

features a drawstring contoured hood that<br />

packs down into the handy compression bag<br />

for easy pack and carry.<br />


Kiwi Camping Mamaku Trek 0°C Sleeping<br />

Bag $119.00<br />

The Mamaku Trek sleeping bag is ideal<br />

for trekking or camping adventures.<br />

The semi-tapered design features<br />

a drawstring-adjustable contoured<br />

hood that packs down into the handy<br />

compression bag for easy pack and<br />

carry.<br />




OWN WAY.<br />

AT THE END OF THE DAY, IT’S ALL ABOUT FREEDOM – go where you want, when you want,<br />

making the most of this country we live in. We hear you, and we’ve got what you need.<br />

4601-07/22<br />


Shackleton Blended Malt Scotch<br />

Born from <strong>Adventure</strong>: Shackleton<br />

Blended Malt Scotch is based on<br />

the spirit supplied to the 1907 British<br />

Antarctic Expedition, expertly crafted<br />

using a selection of the finest Highland<br />

Single Malt Scotch Whiskies. Available<br />

at various Liquor Retailers .<br />


deepcreek Endless Summer WCIPA $8.99<br />

Roll out the red carpet, this playful lion<br />

has arrived! This Extroverted Hazy IPA<br />

is packed full of fun + perfect for your<br />

next adventure!<br />



Inspired by the innovative,<br />

everchanging drinks scene, we<br />

instinctively knew how a drop of<br />

Jägermeister and a backbeat of cold<br />

brew coffee could transform any<br />

night. The enviable result? A brandnew<br />


BREW COFFEE. A unique fusion<br />

of JÄGERMEISTER’s 56 botanicals<br />

and intense cold brew coffee.<br />


TIRED<br />

LEGS?<br />


$7.95<br />

Crisp, delicate and oh-so-drinkable!<br />

These light and refreshing ale-lager<br />

hybrids are perfect for during or after<br />

activities and have become favoured<br />

by beer lovers. It has a thirst quenching<br />

ability along with being a fun beer to<br />

enjoy with food.


The first thing you’ll notice is that the front label on their pouches have changed for the better<br />

by adding Health Star Ratings and energy, protein, fat and carbs per pouch. They have also<br />

improved the readability of our back labels.Back Country Cuisine is available at leading retailers.<br />

For more information or to find your nearest stockist visit: www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />


Fruity, citrus-like characteristics grab<br />

your attention. This beer is all about<br />

the hop flavour, aroma and bitterness.<br />

It'll make you smile, refresh you and<br />

leave you satisfied long enough to get<br />



Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and<br />

development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are<br />

made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole<br />

new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s<br />

online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able<br />

drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are<br />

a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.<br />

Never have a dead phone<br />

again! Because now you can<br />

charge straight from the Sun<br />

with SunSaver. Perfect for<br />

that week-long hike, day at<br />

the beach, or back-up for any<br />

emergency. Check us out at:<br />

www.sunsaver.co.nz<br />

Experts at adventure travel since 2000<br />

We live what we sell!<br />

www.madabouttravel.co.nz<br />

Temerature. Taste. Transport.<br />

Hydroflask, more than just a water bottle.<br />

www.hydroflask.co.nz<br />

Our mission is to produce<br />

the best quality beers<br />

possible across a range of<br />

flavours and styles and to<br />

have fun doing it!<br />

www.dcbrewing.co.nz<br />

Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional<br />

outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.<br />

www.patagonia.co.nz<br />

Stocking an extensive range<br />

of global outdoor adventure<br />

brands for your next big<br />

adventure. See them for travel,<br />

tramping, trekking, alpine and<br />

lifestyle clothing and gear.<br />

www.outfittersstore.nz<br />

Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,<br />

Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, <strong>Adventure</strong> Tents,<br />

Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.<br />

www.equipoutdoors.co.nz<br />

Our very own online store where<br />

you will find hard goods to keep you<br />

equipped for any adventure.<br />

www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz<br />


Fresh powder. Glassy lakes. Lush bush. Icy glaciers. Virgin<br />

trails. Awe-inspiring views. We're all about the Southern Alps,<br />

and we're all about adventure. Proudly 100% NZ owned,<br />

Southern Alps Brewing Co uses NZ's finest hops and malt to<br />

produce a premium, crisp and clean lager.<br />

www.southernalpsbrewing.com<br />

Meals bursting with flavour, combined with home compostable<br />

packaging, means you really can have it all in the mountains.<br />

Designed by ‘foodies’ for maximum plant-based deliciousness<br />

and wrapped in earth positive, lightweight, packable pouches.<br />

www.localdehy.co.nz<br />

Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor<br />

clothing, footwear and equipment from the best<br />

brands across New Zealand & the globe.<br />

www.bivouac.co.nz<br />

Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel<br />

& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &<br />

casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.<br />

www.merrell.co.nz<br />

Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills<br />

or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last<br />

and engineered to perform — proudly designed and<br />

tested in New Zealand since 1973.<br />

www.macpac.co.nz<br />

Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment<br />

specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place<br />

for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents, outdoor<br />

clothing and more.<br />

www.livingsimply.co.nz<br />

www.glerups.co.nz<br />

glerups shoes, slippers<br />

and boots are known for<br />

their exceptional comfort<br />

and unique design.<br />

Over the years we have<br />

perfected the wool mix<br />

by blending Gotland<br />

wool with quality wool<br />

from New Zealand<br />

farmers.<br />

Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.<br />

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />

Sustainably designed outdoor gear that fuels both<br />

adventure and global change, by dedicating a<br />

percentage of revenues to nonprofits working to improve<br />

the human condition. www.cotopaxi.com<br />

Supplying tents and<br />

camping gear to Kiwis<br />

for over 30 years, Kiwi<br />

Camping are proud to<br />

be recognised as one of<br />

the most trusted outdoor<br />

brands in New Zealand.<br />

www.kiwicamping.co.nz<br />

With stores in Clyde and<br />

Cromwell, Bike it Now! is<br />

your access point to the<br />

Central Otago Bike trials: T<br />

> Lake Dunstan Trail<br />

> Otago Central Rail Trail<br />

> Roxbourgh Gorge<br />

and more...<br />

New Zealand’s first online<br />

store solely dedicated to<br />

Non Alcoholic adult drinks.<br />

www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz<br />


t r a v e l<br />



"Do we have to wear spray decks?" Judy asked as<br />

we went through the kayak briefing. "We didn't need<br />

them on Sydney harbour, and they always make me<br />

feel unsafe."<br />

"Yep, everyone has to wear skirts on this trip,” I<br />

replied with a smile, referring to the neoprene deck<br />

covers by their other popular name. "These are full<br />

sea kayaks. For the first few days, we will be inside<br />

the reef, and skirts aren't critical, but if the wind<br />

comes up suddenly and we are outside the reef or if<br />

we have to cross the reef with an awkward current,<br />

the deck becomes essential to staying afloat."<br />

We were starting a nine-day kayak trip around Upolu,<br />

the most populated island of Samoa, it lies across the<br />

Apolima Strait from the island of Savaiʿi to the west.<br />

Upolu is about 74 km long and 26 km across at its<br />

widest point, and while we wouldn't kayak the whole<br />

way, we planned to visit as many of the small coastal<br />

islands as we could.<br />

That first day we paddled within the lagoon to<br />

Manono Island. After lunch, we used the excuse of<br />

a kayak-based snorkel over the coral outcrops to<br />

practice wet exits, falling out of the kayak while fully<br />

skirted in and deep-water re-entries, getting back into<br />

the kayak when it's too deep to boost off the bottom.<br />

In tropical water and with only fish as onlookers, it's<br />

an exercise I always enjoy as the initial trepidation<br />

turns to confident smiles.<br />

Dogs, cars, and bicycles are banned on Manono<br />

Island, which, as you can imagine, creates a peaceful<br />

environment; a coastal walking track connects the<br />

three traditional villages. An afternoon stroll that we<br />

had expected to take two hours stretched into dusk<br />

as we frequently stopped to talk to the locals, join in<br />

village volleyball games and spent time listening to a<br />

choir practising for a wedding.<br />



The following day we were up early and<br />

paddled out to Nuulopa Island in the<br />

half-light to watch the flying foxes return<br />

to roost on this tiny, uninhabited tooth of<br />

an island that had once been part of a<br />

volcano rim. The bats forage overnight<br />

on the plentiful papaya and other tropical<br />

fruits of the main islands before returning<br />

to crowded roosting trees which are<br />

overhanging the sea. Here they fight and<br />

squabble noisily for a branch from which<br />

to hang and sleep the day away. Our<br />

attention was divided between the bats<br />

and the spectacular orange sunrise that<br />

sparkled off the water around Manono.<br />

That afternoon we snorkelled through<br />

a colony of giant clams in Le Faga Bay.<br />

These fluorescent molluscs are almost a<br />

metre long and located in a sheltered area<br />

less than 100 metres from shore. With a<br />

water temperature more like that of a tepid<br />

bath, we inevitably left the water only once<br />

we were too wrinkled as we were never<br />

going to be too cold.<br />

By day 5, we had had several adventures<br />

outside the reef, including visiting<br />

Nuusafee Island. Landing there involved<br />

negotiating the reef entrance. A few of our<br />

group in their kayaks decided to surf small<br />

reefs on the way. The sense of being alone<br />

in paradise was intense as we swam in the<br />

lagoon and picnicked on the white sand<br />

beach.<br />

For most of us, the highlight of the trip<br />

was Namua Island. To get there, we had<br />

taken an unusual route, paddling from the<br />

beachside resort of Lalomanu around the<br />

outside of Nuutele Island. We had to be<br />

careful as there was a metre-high swell<br />

running with a significant chop created<br />

from the backwash off the island. You<br />

never know what you might see in this<br />

tranquil, unspoilt water; out of the blue<br />

(literally), someone spotted a whale spout<br />

a few hundred metres away, and as we<br />

watched it, from a different direction a<br />

fine blubbery-smelling mist drifted over<br />

us from another whale that had breached<br />

unnoticed right beside us. September<br />

and October are the peak months when<br />

humpback whales (tafolā) visit Samoa, but<br />

you can often see them all year round.<br />

The only habitation on Namua is a small<br />

collection of Beach Fales on the sandy<br />

beach in a wilderness paradise. The island<br />

rears up behind the coast, providing a lofty<br />

lookout for whales and dolphins in the bay<br />

and is a convenient base for exploring the<br />

nearby islands. From here, we kayaked<br />

across to Fanuatapu Island, where we had<br />

recently found and cleared a track to the<br />

small lighthouse. From the lighthouse, we<br />

watched frigate birds in aerial dog fights<br />

with other tropical birds. The frigate birds<br />

have no protective oil in their feathers and<br />

so get most of their food by stealing it on<br />

the wing off other species.<br />

Lesa, the 13-year-old daughter of the<br />

proprietor of the Namua resort, suggested<br />

we attempt a walk around the outside of<br />

the island. "It is easy enough at low tide<br />

if the sea is moderate." Then she added,<br />

"Don't tell my dad, but we got swept off the<br />

rocks one day."<br />

That was just the incentive we needed,<br />

and we spent the next hour clambering<br />

around. Fortunately, it was a relatively<br />

calm sea so we could enjoy the island’s<br />

wild side. We were admiring the walking<br />

fish on the rocks, the boobies circling<br />

overhead to the backdrop of the crashing<br />

surf.<br />

Towards the end of our trip, we paddled<br />

to Nuutele Island. Entering the deep<br />

water outside the reef entrance, we were<br />

surprised by a giant turtle just resting<br />

on the surface. Too big to be worried<br />

by our presence, he looked at us lazily<br />

before slowly swimming away. An<br />

escort of swooping gannets and petrels<br />

accompanied us as we approached the<br />

island.<br />

Nuutele island was once home to a leper<br />

colony, and it seemed that sea conditions<br />

might be calm enough for us to land. A<br />

narrow channel had been blasted through<br />

an inner reef, and we took turns running<br />

the gauntlet to crash onto the shore of<br />

rounded coral boulders in a very wet<br />

landing. The colony's ruins were mute<br />

testimony to how brutal life before penicillin<br />

was. The foundations were littered with<br />

coconut shells tossed there by big swells,<br />

and the only water supply was a trickle<br />

down a rock face.<br />

Under a Samoan setting sun, we were<br />

being fanned by the warm tropical breeze<br />

as we had each day of the trip. We<br />

finished back at our cottage with a meal<br />

of seared premium masimasi tuna steaks<br />

and a local ribeye steak with green papaya<br />

salad. And inevitably, we planned the next<br />

trip over one too many Vailima beers and<br />

glasses of fine New Zealand wine.<br />

Outdoor Samoa have safely run bike and<br />

kayak tours in Samoa for 14 years. With<br />

a fleet of over 100 bikes and 20 modern<br />

sea kayaks they provide 9-day all inclusive<br />

tours from $1,750 NZD.<br />

Contact Ross and Frances at:<br />

office@outdoor.co.nz to organise<br />

a custom tour or join a group.<br />

Outdoorsamoa.com<br />


It’s been worth the wait. We look forward to seeing you soon. Re-discover<br />

how beautiful Samoa truly is. Explore untouched landscapes and dive in<br />

warm crystal clear waters packed with tropical fish. Self drive, bike or stroll<br />

through the wonders that make this island life one to cherish just like the<br />

locals do.

t r a v e l<br />

Captain Andy using a sextant<br />


Islands have long held a deep, abiding<br />

fascination. Everyone who has grappled<br />

with getting along with their fellow human<br />

being understands the phrase “can’t<br />

live with them, can’t live without them”.<br />

Everyone has at some time mused on what<br />

life would be like on a remote deserted<br />

island, alone with only the sound of the<br />

gentle wash against the sunbleached<br />

sands.<br />

Perhaps it’s because so few have dared<br />

make this daydream a reality that such<br />

men as Robert Dean Frisbie (“The Book<br />

of Pukapuka”, “The Island of Desire”) and<br />

Tom Neale (“An Island to Oneself”) take<br />

on an almost mythical role in our collective<br />

consciousness, as though they carry upon<br />

their shoulders all our yearnings for a<br />

simple, solitary life in tune with the tides of<br />

nature.<br />

An American, Robert Dean Frisbie became<br />

captivated by the Northern Cook Islands,<br />

sailing to view the black pearl beds in<br />

Penryhn, to Manihiki and to the now<br />

legendary Suwarrow (Suvarov), where he<br />

was later to tie his 4 small children to the<br />

trunks of island mahogany trees to save<br />

their lives from violent hurricane winds.<br />

A New Zealander, Tom Neale became<br />

frustrated after four years in the New<br />

Zealand Navy, visiting many South Pacific<br />

island ports but feeling as though he’d<br />

never really experienced island life. Buying<br />

himself out of the Navy, Neale started<br />

wandering from island to island, taking odd<br />

jobs as the need arose.<br />

As well as many of the Cook Islands he<br />

also visited the Pago Pago of Somerset<br />

Maugham, the Apia of James Michener,<br />

and the Tahiti of Paul Gauguin. He came to<br />

deeply love the islands which he described<br />

as “pearls across the South Pacific” and<br />

most of all, he longed to truly experience<br />

island solitude.<br />

It was 1943 when Tom Neale came to meet<br />

Robert Dean Frisbie, a profound event<br />

Captain Andy with island<br />

adventurer and author TOM<br />

NEALE, aboard the Tiare Taporo<br />


which was to change his life. The two were<br />

introduced by Captain Andy Thomson, a<br />

respected man of the sea and character<br />

in his own right, a bluff, hearty man with<br />

steady blue eyes, a natural command, and<br />

the accent of a Brooklyn cab driver.<br />

Tom Neale had served as engineer on<br />

Captain Andy’s 100 ton island schooner<br />

‘Tiare Taporo’ (‘Lime Blossom’), which<br />

traded copra and other goods between<br />

Tahiti, the Cook Islands and New Zealand<br />

during the 1940s and ‘50s.<br />

Captain Andy then offered Neale a job<br />

as an outer island general storekeeper,<br />

and invited him over to his hand-built<br />

coral home which now stands, restored<br />

and expanded, opposite The Rarotongan<br />

Beach Resort & Lagoonarium.*<br />

Andy’s renowned talents as a ready host<br />

and raconteur with a racy vocabulary won<br />

him many friends, among them fellow<br />

blown-away American Robert Dean Frisbie.<br />

It is perhaps no accident that all three men<br />

– Frisbie, Thomson and later also Neale –<br />

became such firm friends. All three shared<br />

a deep love of islands, and of adventure.<br />

Born in New York in 1887, Andy Thomson<br />

grew up on Long Island which in his day<br />

was crowded with square-riggers and big<br />

steamers. His wanderlust led him to ‘ride<br />

the (railway) rods’ as a hobo all over the<br />

United States before serving his sailing<br />

apprenticeship on square-riggers going<br />

down the east coast of the Americas<br />

and round the demonic Horn, as well<br />

as voyages to Alaska (where he also<br />

worked constructing railways) and as a<br />

quartermaster within the Great Lakes.<br />

He first saw Rarotonga from the deck of<br />

a Boston barque when he was just 15.<br />

Seduced by the South Seas, he returned<br />

a few years later, marrying a local girl<br />

and making their home on the island’s<br />

southwest coast.<br />

Within two days of arriving in the Cook<br />

Captain Andy’s coral & limestone<br />

house which sits directly opposite<br />

The Rarotongan. Captain Andy<br />

and his Rarotongan wife are laid to<br />

rest alongside his old family home<br />

Islands to take up his storekeeping job,<br />

Neale was invited over to Andy Thomson’s<br />

house, and there, on the broad verandah,<br />

over glasses of excellent rum muddled<br />

with the juice of squeezed limes and sugar,<br />

Neale met the man who was to inspire him<br />

like no other. The two men immediately<br />

connected, and during the long, intense<br />

conversations which followed in which<br />

Frisbie would extol the beauty of Suwarrow<br />

in his deep, captivating voice, Neale<br />

became intent on finding any way possible<br />

to live on this most remote of islands in the<br />

very navel of the South Pacific.<br />

When Neale eventually cast eyes upon<br />

Suwarrow for the first time, it was aboard<br />

Captain Andy’s ‘Tiare Taporo’, edging<br />

towards Anchorage on a calm sea as<br />

though “floating on vast pieces of coloured<br />

satin”.<br />

He later recalled in his famed account of<br />

his hermetic life on Suwarrow, “An Island<br />

To Oneself”, that when he looked down<br />

into the water that morning “I thought I<br />

had never seen so many colours in my life<br />

as the vivid blues, greens and even pinks<br />

... no painter could have imitated those<br />

colours.”<br />

“An Island to Oneself” was to further fire<br />

the imaginations of all those who have<br />

dreamt of a simple life of solitude on a<br />

remote deserted island. It may be true that<br />

no man is an island, but it is also true that<br />

many a man has desperately wished they<br />

were one.<br />

* Captain Andy’s final resting place lies<br />

across the Circle Island Road from The<br />

Rarotongan Beach Resort & Lagoonarium,<br />

beside his original home which the Resort<br />

has restored as a heritage building and<br />

where guests can book to stay, 3-Bedroom<br />

Private Pool & Spa Villa Tiare Taporo (Lime<br />

Blossom). The Resort’s Captain Andy’s<br />

Beach Bar & Grill is named in his honour,<br />

and a new extension to Captain Andy’s<br />

with direct views onto his beloved sea has<br />

recently been opened.<br />


Captain Andy used to enjoy a quiet swim at the beach across the road from his home. This stretch of white sandy beach –<br />

Aroa Beach - now sits directly in front of The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Lagoonarium<br />


Cook Islands.<br />

Lonely Planet’s top place to visit in 2022<br />

Float above the world’s bluest blue<br />


Images by Steve Dickinson<br />

Surround yourself in an<br />

ocean of beauty while diving<br />

in The Islands of Tahiti. Here<br />

you’ll dive in the presence<br />

of deep-sea giants such<br />

as sharks, rays, turtles and<br />

dolphins.<br />

Our waters are teeming with<br />

life where each dive brings a<br />

new treasure to uncover and<br />

a new story for you to share.<br />


t r a v e l<br />

DIVING<br />


Size isn't everything but it sure is impressive!<br />

The first thing that anyone talks about after diving in The Islands of<br />

Tahiti, is the presence of sharks, rays, and cetaceans (whales and<br />

dolphins). There are no less than twenty species of sharks. There are<br />

rays in abundance, especially the manta rays, which is an unforgettable<br />

sight underwater.<br />

As early as 2002, The Islands of Tahiti issued a decree declaring its<br />

territorial waters as a (sanctuary for whales and marine mammals). A<br />

choice which has borne fruit, since each year, from July to November,<br />

dozens of humpback whales migrate to The Islands of Tahiti ‘s waters<br />

to give birth. Not to mention the dolphins, such as in Rangiroa, where<br />

a colony of bottlenose dolphins, familiar with divers and come to meet<br />

them daily.<br />

But it would not be fair to limit this description to the presence of these<br />

giants of the sea, because the other characteristic of the regions water<br />

is the diversity and profusion of life that they shelter, both in the open<br />

sea (tunas, barracudas, kingfish...) and on the reefs (turtles, parrotfish,<br />

grouper, angelfish, butterfly fish, perch, and so many others). There<br />

are over 50 diving centres found in The Islands of Tahiti, and an<br />

underwater landscape as large as Europe where each island reveals<br />

underwater its own unique identity. Whether you are a beginner or an<br />

experienced diver, there is a dive experience exactly right for you.<br />

TAHITI<br />

Tahiti, (the main island) with its variable<br />

underwater landscape, is accessible for all levels.<br />

Most dives take place on drop-offs that are ideal<br />

for observing the fauna, around which gravitate<br />

a multitude of fish of all species, including turtles<br />

or Honu in Tahitian, the source of many Tahitian<br />

legends.<br />

Our top four:<br />

Seaplane and the Schooner - Lagoon, 6-21m<br />

(20ft) One dive, two wrecks! These two wrecks<br />

were sunk intentionally: the Catalina type<br />

seaplane in 1962 and the schooner, a former<br />

bomb disposal unit in 1976. Many species have<br />

taken up residence here!<br />

The Marado - Ocean, 18-43m (60-40ft) It’s a<br />

drop off with an amazing relief makes it one of the<br />

most beautiful sites of Tahiti Iti and accessible to<br />

all. Covered with gorgonian fans from 20m (65ft)<br />

deep.<br />

The White Valley - Ocean, 18m (59ft) Incredible<br />

dive with geological relief and white sandy bottom<br />

that offers a remarkable observation, and a high<br />

concentration of sharks.<br />

THE Turtle Plate - Ocean, 18m (59ft) Situated<br />

in Punaauia, numerous turtles swimming in their<br />

natural environment. Observe them quietly, it is<br />

magic!<br />


Fish by the millions typifies diving here<br />

MOOREA<br />

Immerse yourself in the heart of Tahiti’s<br />

sister island, a peaceful and protected<br />

environment with two beautiful bays:<br />

Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay.<br />

Our top three:<br />

Le Tiki - Ocean, 20m (30-70ft) This spot<br />

located at the north-western tip of Moorea,<br />

is known for its fast changing and rapid<br />

current. Its particularity: it welcomes<br />

a school of sharks that have taken up<br />

residence here.<br />

Vaiare - Ocean This dive site will offer<br />

you the opportunity to observe a beautiful<br />

diversity of species. You will encounter<br />

rays, black tip sharks, turtles, schools of<br />

barracuda and sometimes even up to 6<br />

lemon sharks.<br />

Canyons of Opunohu - Ocean, 9-21m<br />

(30-70 ft) Dive spot for all levels. The<br />

most experienced divers can discover<br />

the exceptional Rose Garden. You will<br />

encounter a great diversity of species<br />

such as black tip sharks, lemon sharks,<br />

turtles, school of snapper and surgeonfish.<br />


Huahine is an incredibly beautiful<br />

diving destination and the Fitii pass is<br />

comparable by its richness to some of the<br />

more remote Tuamotu spots. You can find<br />

schools of sharks, jackfish, batfish, and<br />

barracudas, and all the usual small fauna.<br />

Our top two:<br />

Avapehi Pass - Pass, 3-30m (0-100ft)<br />

Get ready to experience a unique dive full<br />

of surprises. You will see giant trevally,<br />

barracudas, a ballet of batfish and manta<br />

rays as well as sometimes up to 50 grey<br />

sharks.<br />

Fa'a Miti - 6-27m (20-90ft) This site<br />

is accessible for all levels. You will be<br />

dazzled by the multitude of corals, black<br />

tip sharks, or a napoleon followed closely<br />

by a swarm of small fish.<br />


The island offers a great wealth of<br />

discoveries between the passes and<br />

their surroundings or in the open sea.<br />

The clarity of the water is exceptional. A<br />

wild and authentic island with the most<br />

unique fauna and marine flora in the world<br />

Surprisingly, Taha’a shares its lagoon with<br />

its sister island Raiatea because they are<br />

originally one and the same island!<br />

Our top two:<br />

The Nordby Wreck - Lagoon, 8-24m<br />

(25-80ft) Day or night, dive back to the<br />

year of 1900 to observe the wreck of this<br />

Danish three-masted ship that sailed<br />

from Auckland to its port in Liverpool.<br />

Numerous nudibranchs have taken<br />

up residence here, and at night, the<br />

experience is unforgettable.<br />

Teava Piti Pass - Pass, 24m (0-80ft)<br />

Considered as one of the most beautiful<br />

drift dives of the Leeward Islands, you will<br />

meet a multitude of species. A must do<br />


Magic just seems to happen underwater here in Tahiti and her islands<br />

TAHA’A<br />

A wild and authentic island with the most<br />

unique fauna and marine flora in the world<br />

an exceptional feature, Taha’a shares<br />

its lagoon with its sister island Raiatea<br />

because they are originally one and the<br />

same island!<br />

Our top two:<br />

Paipai Pass - Drift pass, 29m (95ft) This<br />

is a dive recommended for trained divers.<br />

You will reach cavities with many species<br />

of sharks, including the very shy ma’o<br />

mamaru (white tip lagoon sharks).<br />

Ruutia, Tau Tau, Taputapu - Ocean/<br />

reef, 40m (130ft) A site known for the<br />

exceptional clarity of its waters up to 40<br />

meters. The diving offers you a beautiful<br />

diversity<br />


The diving conditions are optimal to learn<br />

to dive. The lagoon of Bora Bora is home<br />

to unforgettable dives with its coral reef<br />

and a succession of motu with wonderful<br />

white sand beaches<br />

Our top two:<br />

Anau - Ocean, 5-30m (15-100ft) Today,<br />

diving centres are organized to protect this<br />

site known for the presence of numerous<br />

manta rays.<br />

Tapu - Ocean, 9-37m (30-120ft) This is the<br />

name of the motu which means islet and is<br />

used to locate this dive on the slope of the<br />

only pass of Bora Bora, Teavanui. The big<br />

lemon sharks that reside<br />


One of the most abundant marine<br />

biodiversity in the world, recognized as<br />

one of the best places for exceptional<br />

underwater encounters. In The Islands of<br />

Tahiti, Rangiroa is the place where you<br />

will have the most chances to observe<br />

the great hammerhead shark, between<br />

February and April.<br />

Our top 2<br />

P 2 Tiputa Pass - Pass, 12-46m (40-150ft)<br />

This dive is known to be the meeting place<br />

of bottlenose dolphins Tursiops truncatus,<br />

wild sedentary dolphins that live in the<br />

Tiputa pass right above a gathering of grey<br />

sharks.<br />

Avatora Pass - Pass, 15-21m (50-70ft)<br />

In this pass, you will meet the tapete,<br />

white finned reef sharks. A little further on<br />

you will observe a huge school of jacks,<br />

sometimes separated into two groups by<br />

the intrusion of a raira, grey shark or a<br />

Napoleon Wrasse.<br />


Fakarava and Rangiroa has some of the best shark diving in the world<br />


Classified as a Biosphere Reserve by<br />

UNESCO, Fakarava is a model of nature<br />

reconciled with human development.<br />

During the breeding season, from mid-<br />

June to the beginning of July, you can<br />

observe exceptionally large gatherings of<br />

the small yet rare mottled loaches, divers<br />

from all over the world travel here for this<br />

rare experience.<br />

Our top two:<br />

Garuae Pass - Pass, 12-43m (40-140ft)<br />

The largest in The Islands of Tahiti. The<br />

show is always guaranteed whatever<br />

the time of year Barracudas, loaches,<br />

groupers, and rays live there with a<br />

greater concentration during the full<br />

moon.<br />

Tetamanu Pass - Pass, 10-30m (32-<br />

98ft) Often presented as the largest<br />

concentration of grey sharks in the world,<br />

the Tetamanu pass, or Tumakohua pass,<br />

offers an unforgettable spectacle at the<br />

end of the world.<br />


Famous for its landscapes and the beauty<br />

of its passes. Tikehau is considered as<br />

the atoll with the largest concentration<br />

of fish throughout the Tuamotu region<br />

of Tahiti. The only pass of the island is<br />

the gathering place for pelagic species<br />

and promises to offer you beautiful<br />

encounters.<br />

Our top two:<br />

The Tuheiva Pass - Pass, 8-23m (25-<br />

75ft) Accessible for all levels. All the<br />

reef fauna is represented: moray eels,<br />

napoleon fish, barracudas and tunas are<br />

frequent visitors. Every day, you will meet<br />

a group of tapete (white tip lagoon shark).<br />

Teonai - Ocean, 5-23m (15-75ft) All the<br />

marine fauna of the Tuamotu Islands<br />

is present in Teonai where you can<br />

find lionfish, moray eels, napoleons,<br />

surgeonfish, and white tip lagoon sharks.<br />

The richest period of the year for marine<br />

fauna is from October to December.<br />

This is just a small selection of what<br />

is on offer in the Islands of Tahiti. The<br />

region is renowned for its shark diving<br />

and whales, but it offers so much more.<br />

Underwater marine life and fish of all<br />

sorts are in abundance and with the many<br />

professional dive operators, you can<br />

experience this underwater magic setting<br />

easily and safely.<br />

For more information check out:<br />

www.diving.tahititourisme.com<br />

www.tahititourisme.nz<br />



t r a v e l<br />


WELKAM BACK!!!<br />

The first flight since Vanuatu reopened its borders to<br />

international travellers landed in Port Vila on Friday 1st July<br />

and from New Zealand on Saturday 2nd July, with visitors<br />

now able to travel freely throughout the country’s islands and<br />

provinces without any quarantine. The people of Vanuatu gave<br />

the first visitors to make the trip the warmest of welcomes.<br />

The sold-out Air Vanuatu flight from Sydney to Port Vila on the<br />

1st July, carried Aussie guests eager to soak up the country’s<br />

sunshine and enjoy its beautiful island chain. Guests were<br />

also accompanied on the voyage by a VIP delegation including<br />

Vanuatu’s Prime Minister, the Honourable Bob Loughman<br />

Weibur. The flight from Auckland on Saturday 2nd July was<br />

also sold out carrying a mix of RSE workers returning home<br />

after lengthy stays in NZ and tourists many who had rebooked<br />

their holidays that were planned before borders closed in<br />

March 2020.<br />

Upon arrival in Vanuatu, guests were welcomed with a water<br />

salute, enjoyed a meet and greet with local cultural dancers<br />

and were surprised with goodie bags packed with Vanuatu<br />

Made gifts.<br />

Vanuatu’s border has remained closed since March 2020,<br />

due to the COVID-19 pandemic. The reopening signifies the<br />

restarting of the country’s tourism industry, which is one of its<br />

biggest economic drivers.<br />

“Vanuatu’s tourism industry has been busy preparing for the<br />

reopening, taking the time to upgrade or even introduce new<br />

products to ensure guests have the best possible experience<br />

upon arrival. Visitors will be greeted with a Vanuatu smile and<br />

feel welcomed from the moment they touch down.”<br />

Moorings Hotel Vanuatu Assistant Manager, Anita Tahi said,<br />

“We’ve had two challenging years, but the team has kept<br />

operations open and is ready and excited to welcome back<br />

international visitors. Vanuatu has remained beautiful without<br />

losing its happiness and authentic welcoming smiles and<br />

today is an exciting day for everyone in the Vanuatu tourism<br />

industry.”<br />

Travellers can now enter Vanuatu with just a certified negative<br />

RAT from within 24 hours of departure, or a certificate of<br />

infection and recovery from within 28 days of travel.<br />

Flights are available to book now, with Air Vanuatu resuming<br />

its services with two non-stop flights from Auckland a week.<br />

For more information on the reopening flight schedule, please<br />

visit www.airvanuatu.com. Travellers are encouraged to check<br />

the Vanuatu Tourism Office website for the latest information<br />

and health directions prior to travel, as well as for inspiration<br />

on visiting Vanuatu –www.vanuatu.travel/nz.<br />

A new marketing campaign showcasing the best of Vanuatu’s<br />

tourism offering has been launched ahead of the reopening<br />

to urge New Zealanders to visit the archipelago. The new<br />

Welkam Back! campaign encourages Kiwis to “Answer the<br />

Call of Vanuatu” and visit the country to experience its array of<br />

incredible moments.<br />

“We are so happy this day has finally come,” said Vanuatu<br />

Tourism Office CEO, Adela Issachar Aru. “Pre-COVID, New<br />

Zealand was Vanuatu’s second largest inbound tourism market<br />

and we have always shared a strong bond with our Kiwi<br />

neighbours. Vanuatu is just a short flight from Auckland, yet it<br />

feels like a world away. It’s the perfect getaway close to home.<br />


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