Traveller SPRING 2022

cultural and behavioural evolution
of humankind. I squint at a tiny
replica of a piece of ochre with
diagonal markings on it. This early
art piece, said to be 75 000 years
old, is thought to be the oldest
known rock drawing in the world.
Next, we drive down to the
beach, but a howling wind prevents
a picnic on the sand. Instead, we
whip up some sandwiches in the
motorhome’s kitchen and sit and
watch kite surfers making the most
of the weather conditions in the
mouth of the Goukou River. Later
we catch a glimpse of ancient fish
traps (that work like tidal pools to
trap fish) at low tide before heading
to our campsite at the nearby
seaside resort of Jongensfontein.
A HAMLET, A FARM STALL
AND A FERRY
The next morning, I point the
motorhome in the direction of
Witsand, a small settlement at
the mouth of the Breede River
about 74 km on a dirt road from
Jongensfontein. En route, we pass
Vermaaklikheid, a rural hamlet
devoid of shops, tar roads, and
decent cell reception. It is, however,
exactly the type of place you’d want
to escape to if you want privacy,
seclusion, and tranquillity. Most
of the available accommodation
here have access to the nearby
Duiwenhoks River, the perfect
place to swim, canoe, fish, or simply
observe the abundant birdlife
without distraction.
We add Vermaaklikheid to our
‘next time’-list and continue to
Witsand, named for the sprawling
white dunes around the mouth of
the Breede River. Next to Witsand
lies Port Beauford (named after
Cape governor Lord Charles
Somerset’s father), which has served
as a trading port since the early
1800s. At the river mouth, we find
the same blustery weather, again
only appreciated by a handful
of kite surfers.
“At the end of this trip I think
I’ll be done with padstalle!” Sam
laughs as we stop at The Woolshed
on the edge of town. Indeed, our
trip so far has included countless
farm stalls in an assortment of
themes, including parking lots
covered in pumpkins, sheds full of
antiques, retro themed diners, and
the upmarket boutique farm stalls
of the wine route. Yet none matched
the variety of handmade goods
on offer at The Woolshed. I could
stock my braai room, camp site,
wardrobe, kitchen, and the whole
family’s Christmas stockings with
the selection on offer. In the end,
we settle for dried fruits, fudge and
>
While artists have
rejuvenated old
spaces in villages like
Napier and Greyton,
the seaside towns of
Stilbaai, Struisbaai,
and Witsand retain
their classic appeal
with sprawling
beaches, tidal pools,
and colourful ice
cream stands.
25
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller