Jeweller - September 2022

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY SEPTEMBER 2022 

Next frontiers 

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING AND 

ADVANCES IN CASTING AND REFINING 

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JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING AND 

ADVANCES IN CASTING AND REFINING 

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY SEPTEMBER 2022 

PINK DIAMONDS: ARE YOU GETTING 

YOUR MONEYS WORTH? 

SYDNEY'S INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY 

FAIR EXCEEDS ALL EXPECTATIONS 

SEPTEMBER 2022 

Contents 

This Month 

Industry Facets 

15 Editorial 

16 Upfront 

18 News 

34 Jewellers Showcase 

30 

33 

64 

66 

10 YEARS AGO 

Time Machine: September 2012 

LEARN ABOUT GEMS 

Garnets 

MY BENCH 

Jo Makohin 

SOAPBOX 

Sam Der Bedrossian AM 

39 PINK DIAMONDS FEATURE 

Provenance deep dive 

4A detailed understanding of the history of a 

pink diamond, leading right up until the moment 

of purchase, has never been more important 

for collectors of one of the world's most sought 

natural beauties. 

Features 

39 

49 

53 

PINK DIAMONDS FEATURE 

Are you getting what you paid for? 

REVIEW 

International Jewellery Fair 

CASTING AND REFINING FEATURE 

The four key hurdles holding back 3D printing 

Better Your Business 

53 CASTING AND REFINING FEATURE 

Where to next? 

4Casting and refining capabilites have 

changed dramatically over the past two 

decades, expanding manufacturing 

options for jewellers. With 3D printing an 

increasingly valuable service, where does 

the industry head next? 

58 

60 

61 

62 

63 

BUSINESS STRATEGY 

Successful businesses embrace innovation. PAUL KEIJZER explains why. 

SELLING 

SUE BARRETT explores the connection between positivity and productivity in sales. 

MANAGEMENT 

It's important to rethink your priorities from time to time. DAVID BROWN shows you how. 

MARKETING & PR 

THOMAS YOUNG breaks down key marketing tools to use in 2023. 

LOGGED ON 

BRIDGET BROWN examines the history of the recently popularised QR code. 

33 LEARN ABOUT GEMS 

Garnets 

4Garnets have played a significant role in 

the world of gems, earning the admiration 

of society in cultures as varied as Ancicent 

Egypt and Victoria-era England. 

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Next frontiers 

Pink perfection 

A fair to remember 

September 2022 | 11

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Editor’s Desk 

Say what you mean and mean what you say 

When organisations take moral stances they can’t back up with action, the industry suffers. 

ANGELA HAN explains the harm inflicted by virtue signalling. 

Virtue signalling is spreading like a 

disease in the professional realm and now, 

sadly, it has reached our industry. 

So what is‘virtue signalling’? 

One description is “the action or practice of 

publicly expressing opinions or sentiments 

intended to demonstrate one's good 

character or the moral correctness of one's 

position on a particular issue.” 

The Conversation describes it best: “Virtue 

signalling is an expression used to call out 

an individual, company, or organisation - 

suggesting they are only backing an idea to 

look good in the eyes of others. The term 

implies that they don’t truly believe in the 

cause they publicly support. They are acting 

out of bad faith, because they have an 

ulterior motive.” 

Therefore the term has become a slur 

because the focus is on the appearance of 

political or moral correctness, rather than 

on the correctness itself. 

Some examples of virtue signalling can be 

waved away as puffery, however, when the 

practice is paired with a failure to uphold the 

position preached, damage can be done. 

A powerful example of corporate virtue 

signalling occurs each June when 

companies begin the annual embrace of 

‘Pride Month’ – taking up rainbow-themed 

promotions in the name of ‘acceptance’. 

From banks, professional sports and 

insurance companies to fashion brands and 

the tech industry - all preach in unison that 

‘acceptance is non-negotiable’. 

Except their actions often demonstrate that 

these matters are negotiable – when 

it affects their profits. 

For example, Apple proudly promotes its 

support for LGBT causes to Australian 

consumers, while at the same time it 

reportedly censors access to iPhone apps in 

China and Saudi Arabia at the request 

of persecutive governments. 

ExxonMobil changes its Twitter banner 

to the rainbow flag for June – however 

this change is restricted to the US Twitter 

account alone, while on its India account 

– a nation where homosexuality is still 

stigmatised – no such change is made. 

And then you have Disney , which proudly 

boasts of its support of LGBT communities 

– while removing same-sex scenes in 

the versions of films, such as Star Wars, 

streamed in China and the Middle East. 

When a company takes one moral stance 

but acts in a contradictory fashion, the end 

result can be declining faith in the industry 

at large. 

Sadly, the virtue signalling virus has 

filtered into the jewellery sphere and that’s 

something that should concern industry 

participants, large or small. 

Strong words, right? I'll back them up with a 

few examples. 

It’s often easy to identify virtue signalers by 

the language they use; the claims invariably 

contain words such as transparency, trust, 

responsibility, ethics, integrity and so on. 

These words are OK if you can deliver on the 

promise and, if not, they become nothing 

more than empty boasting. 

So how has virtue signalling come to 

pervade the jewellery industry? 

Putting aside the immense virtue 

signalling and greenwashing ocurring 

in the lab-created diamond market, our 

regular readers will be aware that Jeweller 

has reported on a number of controversies 

recently and, in doing so, our researchers 

have contacted many of the self-professed 

‘leaders’ in the industry in the search for 

answers. 

These international bodies are quick to 

tell you that our industry should be more 

transparent and trustworthy. 

While they make these demands on 

everyone else, sadly, these standards 

are often not reflected internally. 

Let me provide two recent examples. 

Responsible Jewellery Council 

The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) 

boasts that it is “the world’s leading 

standard setting organisation for the 

jewellery and watch industry.” 

Part of its mandate is to “to create a culture 

of transparency and accountability”. 

Earlier this year, we learned that when 

confronted with some difficult issues the 

RJC failed to answer important questions. 

It stayed silent about its own practices and 

procedures as well as that of its members. 

Rather than answer direct questions the 

RJC deflects and obfuscates. 

Simple questions raised by Jeweller with 

the RJC on important matters remain 

unanswered, months after being asked. 

When a 

company takes 

one moral 

stance but acts 

in contradictory 

fashion, the 

end result is 

declining faith in 

the industry at 

large. 

World Federation of Diamond Bourses 

The same observations can be cited with the 

WFDB, which also espouses the values of 

trust and transparency. 

It was recently reported that the WFDB 

adopted a resolution “in support of social 

responsibility, transparency, compliance and 

full disclosure.” 

The article added: “WFDB and Chairman 

Yoram Dvash called on the diamond industry 

to adopt the principles of social responsibility 

and transparency for the good of the industry. 

He said, ‘I call on us all to adopt these values. 

It is vital, if we want to protect the future of 

our industry’.” 

Sounds great! However following simple 

questions about its member - the Diamond 

Dealers Club of Australia (DDCA) - the WFDB 

refuses to disclose basic information. 

Of all the questions left unanswered by the 

WFDB, perhaps the most straightforward 

was “how many members does the DDCA 

have?” One could be forgiven for thinking that 

would be an easy question to answer. 

How can a member-based organisation 

preach about transparency and disclosure 

when it refuses to answer simple questions 

about its own membership? 

Either the WFDB knows the number and 

refuses to divulge it - in which case you 

must ask, why? Alternatively, perhaps they 

don’t know the number and have not made 

enquiries about it - in which case you must 

also ask, why? 

Both are unacceptable. 

If you don’t stand for something… 

The actions, or in this case, inaction of 

these two organisations that purport to 

lead the industry are strong examples of 

virtue signalling in action. It’s important to 

remember that the act of virtue signalling is 

acceptable if you can and will deliver on your 

words and promises. 

Sadly, it seems that trust and transparency 

are paramount to these organisations until 

the day it causes them an inconvenience – 

then they are free to abandon it, harming 

confidence in the industry in the process. 

It’s at this time - when your moral standards 

and preaching become negotiable – that you 

become a purveyor of platitudes – a virtue 

signaler – and nothing more. 

Angela Han 

Publisher 


Upfront 

#Instagram hashtags to follow 

Alpha Order 

#jewellerymaking 

655,100 POSTS 

#diamondareforever 

691,202 POSTS 

#dresstoimpress 

2,601,322 POSTS 

#jadejewelry 

92,955 POSTS 

#jewelleryaddict 

2,555,102 POSTS 

HISTORIC GEMSTONE 

Kokoshnik Tiara 

#loosediamonds 

129,022 POSTS 

#jadeitejade 

102,333 POSTS 

#gems 

10,200,545 POSTS 

#gemsforsale 

295,002 POSTS 

#diamondstuds 

189,002 POSTS 

4The Kokoshnik Tiara was 

presented to Alexandra, 

Princess of Wales, as a 25th 

wedding anniversary gift 

in 1888 by Lady Salisbury. 

Alexandra had reportedly 

desired a tiara in the style of 

a Russian kokoshnik, a traditional folk headdress, 

and was familiar with the design due to her relationship 

with her sister, Maria Feodorovna, who was Empress of Russia. 

The Kokoshnik Tiara was made by Garrard & Co. and has vertical 

white gold bars pavé-set with diamonds, the longest of which is 6.5 cm. 

The tiara features 77 fringe pieces and more than 400 diamonds. The 

final cost of production was £4,400 - paid for by The Ladies Society. 

Upon the death of Queen Alexandra, the tiara passed to her daughter-inlaw, 

Queen Mary, who bequeathed it to Queen Elizabeth in 1953. 

Trend Spotting 

4Musicians Harry Styles and Frank 

Ocean are latest champions of the 

new 'Kidult' jewellery trend. Nostalgia 

has always driven certain elements 

of fashion design, however, those 

engaging in Kidult styles - necklaces, 

braceletes and earrings adorned with 

colourful kitch insignia - are taking it 

to a new level. The aim, fans say, is a 

reminder not to take life too seriously. 

Image credit: Pandora 

Stranger Things 

Weird, wacky and wonderful 

jewellery news from around the world 

Rapid success 

4A jewellery designer from 

London has sold a collection of 

rings for £23,000 in less than one 

minute as a result of her popular 

TikTok channel. Susannah King is a 

fourth generation goldsmith and on 

15 August, announced the release 

of 28-ring collection to 133,000 

followers. King's rings feature 

brightly coloured gemstones paired 

with gold rings. She said that 

following the success of her first 

'ring drop' she will release another 

range in December. 

Gemstones for Ukraine 

4New York City artisanal gem 

cutters Nomad's have organised 

the auction of gemstones from 

Ukraine (topaz and heliodor beryl) 

with proceeds from the auction 

returning to Ukraine to support 

the war effort. Leading the sale is 

a 162-carat heliodor beryl from 

the Volodarsk Volynskii with the 

bidding starting at $US15,000. All 

money raised with go to Volodymyr 

Zelensky's United24 initiative. 

Digital Brainwave 

Anniversary celebration 

Tiffany & Co is 

turning NFTs 

into jewellery for 

the low price of 

$US50,000. 

4Luxury jewellery brand Tiffany & Co has 

released a range of NFTs (non-fungible 

tokens). Limited to a range of 250, Jewellery 

has been paired with the the world of crypto 

jpegs, with Tiffany & Co teaming up with 

CryptoPunks – one of the most popular and 

expensive NFT projects on the Ethereum 

blockchain – to release a limited collection 

called"NFTiff". 

The NFTiff is redeemable for a custommade 

piece of physical jewellery based on a 

CryptoPunk NFT, as well as another NFT that 

replicates the final jewellery design. 

Campaign Watch 

Pandora's new Diamonds by Pandora 

collection will feature 100 per cent 

recycled gold and silver pieces paired 

with lab-created diamonds, 

a first for the US market. 

The collection campaign was shot by 

artist, photographer, and director Cass 

Bird and styled by Camilla Nickerson, 

and features supermodel Ashley 

Graham and actress Rosario Dawson. 

4The only active diamond mine in 

the US - the Crater of Diamonds 

State Park in Arkansas - is 

celebrating a 50th anniversary with 

the release of limited edition replicas 

of a $US1 million diamond. In 2015, 

a man from Colorado discovered an 

icicle shaped 8.52-carat diamond 

on a day trip the park. The diamond 

was cut and polished and named 

Esperanza, Spanish for "hope". The 

park will sell necklaces featuring a 

replica of the Esperanza for $US500. 

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY 

Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd 

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com 

Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Journalists Samuel Ord samuel.ord@jewellermagazine.com | Richard Chiu editorial@jewellermagazine.com 

Production Coordinator Lauren McKinnon art@befindanmedia.com • Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com 

Copyright All material appearing in Jeweller is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd 

strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information 

believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to 

the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities 

arising from the published material.

News 

Mystery surrounds Diamond Dealers Club and Jewelclaim's use of international logos 

Only days after the logos of two international 

jewellery organisations were removed without 

explanation from the Jewelclaim website – a private 

business run by Diamond Dealers Club of Australia 

(DDCA) president Rami Baron – a third logo 

suddenly disappeared. 

Jeweller became aware that Baron’s Australian 

Jewellers Consortium, otherwise known as 

Jewelclaim - an insurance claims business - was 

using the imprimatur and logos of the prestigious 

Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the World 

Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) and the World 

Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) seemingly 

without permission. 

Below a picture of Baron on a page titled 

‘Statement by managing director Rami Baron’ it 

also stated: “The Australian Jewellers Consortium 

maintains a direct relationship with the GIA, CIBJO 

and the WFDB. This global pool of knowledge and 

experience is priceless.” 

According to the website, Jewelclaim has operated 

since 1996. Baron has been president of the DDCA 

for 14 years of its 15-year existence - despite 

operating in the insurance sector – and sits on the 

WFDB executive committee – courtesy of the DDCA 

presidency - and is chair of the WFDB’s promotion 

committee. 

An email to Baron on 12 August raising questions 

about the use of the Gemological Institute of 

America (GIA), the World Jewellery Confederation 

(CIBJO) and WFDB logos on his private company’s 

website when the business was not a member of 

any of the organisations, was unanswered. 

GIA and CIBJO unaware 

Following the publication of an article on 14 August 

titled ‘Mystery behind the Diamond Dealers Club of 

Australia’, the GIA and CIBJO logos were suddenly 

deleted from the Jewelclaim website. 

The GIA’s director of corporate communications 

Stephen Morisseau told Jeweller that the 

misappropriation of the association’s logo was 

taken very seriously. 

“We are very protective of our logo and marks. 

Protecting consumers is our mission, and making 

sure that GIA is not misrepresented in any way is an 

important part of that,” he said. 

He added, “Retailers who carry gems with GIA 

reports and GIA alumni can request logos for 

specific purposes. We have no record of a request 

from Mr Baron.” 

CIBJO’s director of communications, Steven 

Benson explained that CIBJO is a non-profit 

organisation that represents all participants in the 

international jewellery supply chain. 

“We were not aware that the CIBJO logo was being 

used by JewelClaim,” he told Jeweller. 

“As a matter of policy [CIBJO] does not grant 

permission for its logo to be used to endorse any 

products or services that it has not developed 

itself,” Benson added. 

Although the GIA and CIBJO logos were removed 

from the Jewelclaim website following Jeweller’s 

initial story, the WFDB logo along with the 

promotional text remained on the website. 

WFDB Confusion 

When contacted by Jeweller on 12 August, Sharon 

Gefen, head of public relations WFDB explained 

that individual companies are generally not 

members of the WFDB as it is an organisation of 

bourses. 

She told Jeweller, “So all member bourses may 

use the logo. We do have a few associate members, 

which are companies or organisations, and they 

also may use the logos.” 

Jewelclaim website showing the unauthorised use of 

international marks and logos; all have now been deleted. 

Despite Jewelclaim not being an associate member 

and despite initially advising that only bourse 

members and associate members can use the 

WFDB logo, when Jeweller specifically referred 

Gefen to the Jewelclaim website she confusingly 

advised, “Rami Baron is a valued member of the 

WFDB executive committee, and is in close contact 

with the organisation”. 

The “close contact” makes reference to Baron’s 

claim that he “maintains a direct relationship 

with the GIA, CIBJO and the WFDB”. As a result 

Rami Baron president Diamond Dealers Club of Australia 

for 14 years of its 15-year existence. 

of this “close contact”, Gefen added, “We see no 

problem in his [Baron] mentioning that fact on the 

Jewelclaim website”. 

She did not specifically address the use of the 

WFDB logo, namely, if permission had been 

specifically granted prior to the promotional use. 

However, despite the WFDB’s explanation and 

‘endorsement’ it, and the promotional text, were 

suddenly deleted one week later. 

Many questions unanswered 

Since initially contacting Baron about the DDCA, 

he has remained silent, choosing not to explain a 

number of issues about the operation of the Club. 

Basic questions about the financial management of 

the club and its precise membership number have 

been ignored. 

The DDCA is registered as an unincorporated body 

with the Australian Securities and Investments 

Commission (ASIC) and records show its registered 

address is Market Street in Sydney, the same 

address as a number of Baron’s private businesses. 

The most puzzling aspect is that, despite operating 

since 2007, ASIC’s records show that the Diamond 

Dealers Club of Australia was registered only last 

year - 16 February 2021. 

Jeweller sought clarification about this, namely: 

under which legal entity did the DDCA previously 

operate (from 2007 to January 2021), however, at 

the time of publication he had not responded. 

The Market Street address is also ‘home’ to at 

least six other businesses, some that pre-date 

the DDCA. ASIC records show that these include 

insurance businesses JewelCover, Jewel Bid and 

Australian Jewellers Consortium, otherwise known 

as Jewelclaim, as having their registered offices at 

Market Street, Sydney. 

According to ASIC records another six businesses 

- including Jewellery Insurance Australia and Q 

Report Jewellery Insurance - are registered to a 

George Street (The Strand), Sydney address. 

18 | September 2022

News 

Sydney’s International Jewellery Fair unites local market once again 

The International Jewellery Fair (IJF) has come 

and gone for 2022 with attendees reporting roaring 

return from a pandemic-imposed hiatus. 

The first major tradeshow in three years saw three 

jam-packed days in Sydney’s Darling Harbour. 

Warm smiles and firm handshakes marked the 

beginning of new partnerships for many visitors to 

the International Convention Centre (ICC). 

For others, the event was the chance to reconnect 

with long-term associates and friends for the first 

time since 2019. 

More than 140 exhibitors – many being international 

companies attending the IJF for the first time - lined 

the walls of the ICC’s cavernous open-air hall and 

the feedback was positive. 

The opening day (Saturday) was surprisingly busy 

as buyers were eager to finalise new orders. These 

same exhibitors often reported an even busier 

Sunday, which has traditionally been the day with 

the strongest sales. 

For others, the opening day was marked by plenty 

of browsing, with Sunday the strongest day for sales 

as visitors returned to the stalls which had most 

captured their interest. 

There was one piece of feedback that was uniformly 

reported by exhibitors and buyers – ‘it’s great to be 

back under one roof at the IJF after so long apart’. 

“The overwhelming feedback we’ve received has 

been upbeat,” Gary Fitz-Roy, managing director 

Expertise Events told Jeweller. 

“The biggest surprise was the Saturday - it was a 

very different start compared to what we’ve seen 

in recent years, prior to the pandemic, and it was 

reminiscent of fairs from yesteryear. 

“From those that I’ve had the chance to speak with, 

Saturday and Sunday were both really strong days, 

however the first day felt more like the second we’ve 

become accustomed to.” 

Fitz-Roy added: “In my mind, the success of this 

event has really reaffirmed the position of this Fair 

at the event that unites the industry.” 

For supplier Timesupply – which serves more 

than 800 retailers in Australia and New Zealand – 

the expectations heading into the IJF were clear. 

Director Ken Abbott said there was little reason to 

delay confirming a return in 2023. 

“This has been such a great Fair that we’ve decided 

to finalise our place at next year’s event already, 

we’ll certainly be back," he said. 

“Our expectations heading into the weekend were to 

simply reconnect with our customers face-to-face 

and hopefully connect with some new people, and 

we’ve achieved both goals so we’re happy. 

Abbott continued “It was great to see so many 

people face-to-face – especially those from New 

Zealand who for obvious reasons we haven’t been 

able to see for a long time.” 

Upon first entering the IJF, visitors were greeted 

by the newly branded BECKS stand – formerly the 

Peter W Beck Company - with the strong redand-black 

design the latest move from the South 

Australian-business. 

“It’s been an unbelievable experience for our team,” 

BECKS managing director Greville Ingham said. 

“With the gigantic rebranding effort we’ve 

undergone, I think we all came here feeling a little 

trepidation – you’re never really sure how something 

like this is going to be received, and now we can all 

go home knowing it was worth the effort.” 

For some exhibitors, the IJF isn’t just about 

completing sales, it’s about confirming a position 

within the industry. William Gant, managing director 

of LJ West Diamonds Australia, said it was an 

opportunity to increase industry awareness of rare 

beauties, such as natural pink and other premium 

fancy colour diamonds. 

“Our presence at the Fair is a little different, we 

aren’t only here with a direct focus on selling based 

on the nature of our products,” he said. 

“We also come to meet our partners and to spend 

some time educating people on the rarest and finest 

natural colour diamonds and everyone at our stalls 

has enjoyed their time. 

“You get the chance to meet all walks of life at the 

IJF, this is an industry that’s made up of all kinds of 

people and personalities and we think it’s great to 

be here and be a part of it.” 

See PAGE 49 for Jeweller’s pictorial review. 

Chinese jewellery chain accused of organised crime association 

more than 5,900 stores worldwide. 

billion expansion of Queen’s Wharf in Brisbane. 

ABC News has released an investigative report 

detailing a long and intricate connection between 

jewellery retailer Chow Tai Fook and Chinese 

organised crime. 

Chow Tai Fook is the world’s second-largest 

jewellery retailer by market value and has 

Written by Josh Robertson, Mark Willacy, Echo 

Hui and Kyle Taylor, the ABC News report links 

Chow Tai Fook with a wide range of figures 

well-known for their connection to the criminal 

underworld including Wan Kuok Koi, Alvin Chau, 

Stanley Ho and Ao leong Lok Hei. 

“ABC Investigations can reveal Chow Tai Fook 

and associated companies have been linked 

to Chinese organised crime for decades,” the 

report states. 

“The revelations come on the eve of the 

Gotterson Inquiry in Queensland, which from 

Tuesday will probe allegations Star turned a 

blind eye to money laundering and criminal 

infiltration in the sunshine state.” 

In 2015, the Queensland government, led by 

premier Annastacia Palaszczuk, approved Chow 

Tai Fook’s bid to become a partner in the $3.8 

Chow Tai Fook owns 25 per cent of the shares of 

a casino – The Star - being developed on Queen’s 

Wharf. The company also owns a significant 

amount of residential real estate in the areas 

surrounding the site. 

The casino – owned by The Star Entertainment 

Group – is due to open next year. 

Chow Tai Fook Holdings is owned by the Cheng 

family. Based in Hong Kong, the company is 

led by chairman Henry Cheng, who took the 

leadership from his father Cheng Yu Tung. 

Cheng owns the majority stake of Chow Tai 

Fook Jewellery Group, and leads New World 

Development – a company focused on property 

development. 

Chow Tai Fook began in 1929 as a jewellery 

store in Guangzhou, China. 

MORE BREAKING NEWS 

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New Designs 

News 

Alex and Ani secures multi-million loan 

IP048ESS 

Jewellery brand Alex and Ani has secured s $US17.5 million ($AU25.4 million) loan to 

finance working capital and business operations following its bankruptcy filing in 2021. 

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Alex and Ani, the once high-profile US jewellery brand, has secured a 

$US17.5 million ($AU25.4 million) loan to finance working capital and 

business operations as it continues to rebuild the company, following its 

bankruptcy filing in 2021. 

Boston-based Second Avenue Capital Partners (SACP) announced 

the closing of the senior secured credit facility and indicated that the 

loan facility will not affect the company's ownership and leadership 

structure. 

Michael Sullivan, managing director, SACP noted that Alex and Ani 

"have cleaned the company up and put it back in the right direction. 

This will allow the business to further invest and get back on the right 

path and facilitate their continued turnaround.” 

Scott Burger, the former Pandora executive who was named CEO of 

Alex and Ani last year, said the loan is an “affirmation of the resiliency” 

of the Alex and Ani brand. 

“We create jewellery that connects with a customer’s emotions. It 

was essential for us to partner with a lender that could appreciate 

the intangible value of that emotional connection and recognize the 

benefit it will have on our continued evolution,” he said, noting SACP’s 

commitment to the company’s goals and its experience in the industry. 

In August 2019 Alex and Ani became embroiled in a legal battle with 

Bank of America (BA), claiming the lender misclassified a payment in 

order to push the company to default on a $US170 million loan. 

IP45-BANGLE 

The company’s cash flow has been severely disrupted and lost access 

to its credit line with BA having close to $US16 million ($AU23 million) 

in outstanding payments on its books. It was also unable to purchase 

seasonal inventory, which, it has alleged, lead to a steep decline in 

sales.” 

In September 2019 a new debt structure was finalised with its syndicate 

of lenders, led by BA. 

Alex and Ani has had a chequered history, including a brief stint in 

Australia, having launched in December 2015 by House of Brands 

(HOB) and within a little over two years closed its doors due to financial 

and legal issues that hounded the US-based company. 

Luxury Pearl and Opal Jewellery 

+61 2 9266 0636 

enquiries@ikecho.com.au 

www.ikecho.com.au 

The company withdrew the brand from the Australian and New Zealand 

markets starting with its Westfield Fountain Gate flagship store and eight 

kiosks across NSW, Victoria, Western Australia and South Australia were 

subsequently closed. It had around 100 retail stockists.

News 

Major increase in sales for Aussie retailers 

“For the second consecutive month, it also 

indicates that consumers may be planning 

and budgeting their jewellery purchases.” 

Watches of Switzerland expects 

a challenging year ahead 

In services, such as repairs, a reverse pattern 

was seen with a decrease of 24 per cent in 

dollar values between incoming and pickups 

and cancellations. 

Retail Edge has released the sales 

performance report for July, revealing 

significant positive indicators for domestic 

retailers. 

The performance report shows that 

comparative overall sales dollars increased 

by 28 per cent compared with July of 2021 

and 11 per cent compared with July of 2020. 

Comparative units sold show an increase 

of 23 per cent compared with 2021 but 

decreased by 8 per cent compared with 2020. 

Comparative average sales (inventory only) 

was flat (0.8 per cent) compared with 2021, 

however, were notably stronger than 2020 

(up to $216 from $178). 

According to Retail Edge sales mananger 

Mike Dyer context is important when 

reflecting on these positive figures. 

“Remember when reviewing the numbers 

to take into account that July, August and 

September 2021 and 2020 were impacted by 

lockdowns,” he said. 

“That will have had an influence on the growth 

numbers. 

He added: “There were good results across 

the product categories. The drill down into the 

sales dollars numbers shows diamond-set 

precious metal jewellery was up 1.8 per cent 

compared with July 2021 and 2.3 per cent on 

the two-year difference to July 2020.” 

The analysis reveals that coloured stone 

set precious metal jewellery sales dollars 

increased a strong 35 per cent compared with 

July 2021. 

No stone precious metal jewellery sales 

dollars were strong with a climb of 29 per cent 

compared with July 2021. 

Silver and alternative metals jewellery sales 

dollars were also strong with a 37 per cent 

increase compared to July 2021. 

Laybys showed an increase of 4 per cent in 

dollars between new ones and pickups and 

cancellations. 

“This continues to indicate good cash flow and 

customer visitations as a result,” Dyer explains. 

The special order numbers show a similar 

pattern to laybys with an increase of 4 per 

cent in dollar values between incoming and 

pickups and cancellations. 

“If this pattern is also reflected in your 

business, it may be time to make some 

marketing noise around the services area of 

your business,” Dyer said. 

“Services and repairs are an area of expertise 

and knowledge, that not all stores provide. 

“A well-managed service area can be a good 

profit centre, as well as bringing your skill, 

knowledge and expertise into customer focus 

to give them confidence in dealing with you. 

He continued: “Review the special order area 

in your business, it may be that this is an 

early warning of new ‘look and feel’ in designs 

coming into demand, or conversely, a delay in 

the supply chain. 

“Both could be addressed, face-to-face with 

suppliers, at the upcoming International 

Jewellery Fair and buying group meetings.” 

Retail Edge’s data is gathered from POS 

software located in more than 400 Australian 

independent retail jewellery stores. It is 

intended to present a representative sample 

of the wider jewellery industry. 

Despite rising sales in the past three months, a 

Watches of Switzerland spokesperson has warned of 

a "potentially more challenging trading environment" 

for the remainder of the year. 

During the first fiscal quarter, which ended 31 July, 

the UK-based business reported a 31 per cent 

increase in sales to £391 million ($AU668 million). 

Following the acquisition of several businesses, 

including jewellery chain Betteridge, revenues in 

the UK and Europe grew 8 per cent to £239 million 

($AU409 million), while sales in the US doubled to 

£152 million ($AU260 million). 

Watches of Switzerland, the largest retailer of Rolex 

timepieces, maintained its fiscal-year sales forecast 

of £1.45 billion ($AU2.5 billion) to £1.5 billion to 

($AU2.6 billion) amid concerns of a slowdown in the 

remaining three quarters. 

Watches of Switzerland released a statement 

noting that, “while we continue to monitor the wider 

macroeconomic environment, we believe that the 

strength of the luxury-watch category, with its unique 

supply-demand dynamics, together with the success 

and agility of our model, will continue to support 

long-term sustainable strong sales growth.” 

Meanwhile, in New York, Sotheby's will auction three 

vintage Rolex watches owned by Hollywood stuntman 

Stan Barrett. 

The colourful life of Barrett included stints as a 

boxing champion and NASCAR driver and his film 

career in Hollywood featured a long-term friendship 

with actor Paul Newman. 

To many, Barrett is best known for his efforts to 

become the first person to break the sound barrier 

on land. In 1979, Newman gifted Barrett two Rolexes 

- a stainless steel GMT-Master Pepsi and a stainless 

steel Ref. 6262 Daytona. 

The third Rolex to be auctioned is a yellow gold GMT 

Ref. 1675 given to Barrett by August Busch, CEO of 

Anheuser-Busch, the main sponsor of the Project 

Speed of Sound event. 

The stainless-steel Ref. 6262 Daytona is expected 

to fetch between $US300,000 and $US500,000. With 

the iconic red and blue bezel, the GMT-Master Pepsi 

is expected to fetch around $US100,000, while the 

yellow gold GMT Ref. 1675 is estimated to sell for 

between $US50,000 to $US100,000. 

MORE BREAKING NEWS 



News 

Signet acquires retail rival Blue Nile for $US360 million 

Signet Jewelers, the world’s largest retailer of 

diamond jewellery, has purchased US competitor 

Blue Nile in an all-cash deal. 

According to a statement released by Signet, 

Blue Nile has been purchased in a $US360 

million deal as a strategetic acquisition that will 

boost Signet’s attempts at expanding its bridal 

product portfolio. 

Signet CEO Virginia C. Drosos said Blue Nile was 

a unique business with a rich history. 

“Blue Nile is a pioneer and innovator in online 

engagement rings and fine jewellery, providing a 

unique and highly desirable shopping experience 

for customers," she said. 

“Adding Blue Nile to our strong and diversified 

portfolio of banners will further drive our 

Inspiring Brilliance growth strategy - expanding 

customer choice, building new capabilities, and 

achieving meaningful operating synergies that 

will increase value for both our consumers and 

shareholders." 

Blue Nile was founded in 1999 by Mark Vadon 

and today is based in Seattle. 

The business was formed in a bid to capitalise on 

the rise of online shopping and within 10 years, 

was one of the largest diamond and diamond 

engagement ring retailers in the US. 

Blue Nile was acquired in 2017 by an investor 

group comprised of Bain Capital Private Equity, 

Bow Street, and Adama for $US520 million. 

In June of this year, Blue Nile CEO Sean Kell 

announced that Blue Nile would combine with 

New York special purpose acquisition company 

Mudrick, as well as become a publicly-traded 

company on the US NASDAQ in a bid to secure 

further investors. 

Blue Nile’s Kell said that in the years to come 

the brand would continue to expand under the 

Signet umbrella. 

"We're equally thrilled to join a purpose-inspired 

and sustainability-focused company that shares 

our core values,” he said. 

"By joining Signet, we will extend our premium 

brand and fine jewellery offering to millions of 

new customers while bringing new capabilities to 

our leading e-commerce business that will drive 

additional growth opportunities for Blue Nile.” 

Signet owns more than 2,800 stores including 

Kay Jewelers, Zales, Jared, Diamonds Direct, 

JamesAllen.com, Rocksbox, Peoples Jewellers, 

H.Samuel, Ernest Jones, and Sterling Jewelers. 

Signet’s business interests primarily focus on 

the US market, with just $US492.4 million in 

revenue generated internationally last financial 

year. In comparison, it reported more than $US7 

billion in sales in North America. 

Signet is updating its guidance for the second 

quarter and full year given “given heightened 

pressure on consumers' discretionary spending 

and increased macroeconomic headwinds.” 

According to a company statement, second 

quarter total revenue is expected to reach 

approximately $US1.75 billion. Signet expects 

total revenues for the year to be in the range of 

$US7.6 to $US7.7 billion. This is a reduction from 

an early estimate of $US8.03 to $US8.25 billion. 

DIAMOND LABORATORY 

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News 

Australian miners discover biggest pink diamond in 300 years 

by yet another historic recovery," he said. 

"We too look forward to our partnership 

progressing its exploration effort, where we are 

now bulk sampling the priority kimberlites, in 

search for the primary kimberlite sources of 

these exceptional and high-value diamonds." 

polished at 186 carats and originating from the 

Kollur Mine in India. The diamond is currently 

part of the Iranian crown jewels in Tehran. 

At 59.6-carats, The Pink Star shattered auction 

records when it was sold for $US71.2 million 

($AU101.79) at Sotheby’s in 2017. 

The type IIa pink diamond rough has been dubbed the 

Lulo Rose and is believed to be the largest pink diamond 

discovered in the past three centuries, weighing 170-carats. 

Source: Lucapa 

Western Australian-based Lucapa Diamond 

Company has unearthed a gigantic 170-carat 

pink diamond from the Lulo mine in Angola. 

The type IIa rough has been dubbed the Lulo 

Rose and is believed to be the largest pink 

diamond discovered in the past three centuries. 

Stephen Wetherall, Lucapa managing director, 

released a statement declaring the discovery to 

be a moment in history. 

“Lulo is an exceptional alluvial resource and is 

truly a gift, we are once again made very proud 

Angola’s Lulo mine has been a happy hunting 

ground in recent years for mining companies, 

with the Lulo Rose the 27th diamond extracted 

in excess of 100 carats since commercial 

production began in 2015. 

The largest diamond ever discovered in Angola 

– the 404-carat 4th February Stone – was 

discovered in the Lulo mine in 2016. 

Lucapa has revealed plans to sell the diamond 

through an international tender conducted by 

Angola’s state-run diamond marketing company 

Sodiam. The company has a 40 per cent stake in 

the Lulo mine. The remaining equity is held by 

Angola’s national diamond company (Endiama) 

and Rosas & Petalas, a private company. 

Pink diamonds continue to be the world’s most 

highly sought fancy colour diamonds and the 

Lulo Rose may belong to an elite class. 

The Darya-i-Noor is the largest pink diamond, 

Many other pink diamonds have produced 

staggering results at auction. The 34.65-carat 

Princie Diamond fetched $US39.3 million 

while 24.78-carat Graff Pink was sold for 

$US46.2 million. 

Other notable pink diamonds include the 

Sweet Josephine (16 carats) which was sold for 

$US28.5 million and the Spirit of the Rose (14.83 

carats) which sold for $US26.6 million. 

23 

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News 

Strong sales for De Beers amid robust 

diamond demand 

The world’s largest diamond mining company by value, De Beers, has 

reported $US630 million in rough diamond sales during the company’s 

sixth cycle for 2022. 

Those figures represent a 23 per cent increase compared with the same 

sales period in 2021, which generated $US514 million in sales. 

The sixth cycle brought about a minor decline in sales compared 

with the fifth ($US657 million), while rough sales during the fourth 

concluded at $US604 million. 

De Beers completes 10 sales cycles each year. CEO Bruce Cleaver said: 

"Following a period of consistently robust demand in the first half, we 

continued to see steady demand for De Beers rough diamonds in the 

sixth sales cycle of the year. 

"However, the diamond industry continues to adopt a watchful 

approach in light of the risks to consumer sentiment presented by 

macroeconomic challenges." 

De Beers has reported a revenue of $US3.6 billion for the first half of 2022, a 

24 per cent increase compared with the same period of time in the past year. 

The rise has been attributed to strong consumer spending during 

the holiday period, which led to intense demand for restocking. The 

average selling price for rough ($US213 per carat) has climbed 58 per 

cent due to market upturn. 

De Beers CFO Sarah Kuijlaars told Rapaport News that the company 

was cautious about the road ahead 

Explore the new digital range by Sector Watches. 

“We can only have strong rough sales if that’s also coupled by what’s 

going on on the polished side,” she said. 

“The polished position was very strong in the beginning of the year, 

but it has leveled off. We have much more caution about the next six 

months than we’ve had for the previous six months.” 

Kuijlaars continued: “This time last year, our operation was coming out 

of COVID [during which output dropped].” 

“To stabilise our productionhas been really important, and that strong 

production gives us confidence for the full year. That’s our part in delivering 

reliable supply. As we sell that through, we are very alert to signs of any 

slowdown in the remaining four sights of the year.” 

De Beers recently boosted its full-year guidance to a range of 32-34 million 

carats, an increase from the initial 30-33 million carat prediction. 

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During Q2, De Beers produced 7.9 million carats, a slight drop compared 

with the same period in 2021 (8.2 million carats). 

Anglo American, the owner of De Beers, said the rise in guidance 

was attributable to an increase in demand from the US market. This 

demand has been driven by Alrosa’s exclusion from much of the 

international marketplace due to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. 

Anglo American CEO Duncan Wanblad said: “Our production 

performance started to pick up in the second quarter of 2022, with 

operational momentum and our focus on asset resilience positioning 

us well for a stronger second half of the year. 

“Full year production guidance is unchanged for PGMs, copper and iron 

ore, increased for diamonds and decreased for steelmaking coal due to 

longwall ramp-up timing.” 

Website: www.westendcollection.com.au 

Email: info@westendcollection.com.au 

Ph. no: +613 9553 3777 

De Beers currently has mining operations in Botswana, Namibia, 

South Africa and Canada and recently announced plans to resume 

mining in Angola.

News 

Pandora to introduce lab-created 

diamonds to US market 

Pandora has confirmed it will launch its first lab-created diamond 

jewellery collection in the US. In 2021, Pandora launched its first 

exclusive lab-created diamond collection set in the UK and announced 

the intention to phase out natural diamonds from its product lines. 

On 25 August, the Pandora Brilliance collection will be available, 

rebranded as Diamonds by Pandora, at more than 250 stores in the 

US and Canada. 

The collection features 33 pieces, including rings, bangles, necklaces 

and earrings, each with a solitary lab-created diamond hand-set 

within sterling silver, 14-carat yellow gold or 14-carat white gold. 

Pandora CEO Alexander Lacik said the new collection, which will 

feature lab-created diamonds up to 1-carat in size, represented an 

important step forward for the business. 

“The future of luxury is here today. Lab-created diamonds are just as 

beautiful as mined diamonds, but available to more people and with 

lower carbon emissions. 

“We are proud to broaden the diamond market and offer innovative 

jewellery that sets a new standard for how the industry can reduce its 

impact on the planet,” Lacik explained. 

Pandora has also committed to using exclusively recycled silver 

and gold by 2025. The Diamonds by Pandora is the company’s first 

collection to be crafted from entirely recycled silver and gold. 

Record result 

Meanwhile, the company has released its second quarter sales 

figures, recording a third consecutive quarter of record revenue 

despite a decline in the US market. 

Pandora CEO Andrew Lacik said neither inflation nor higher living 

costs had negatively affected jewellery sales. 

"The United States has record low unemployment rates, salaries are 

going up quite a bit, and people have high savings, so there's plenty 

of disposable income still available," he said. 

"We maintained solid growth [compared with] pre-pandemic levels, 

despite negative impacts by lockdowns in China and a tough US 

comparison due to the stimulus cheques last year. 

"When we look at our core metrics such as store traffic, basket size, 

and average selling price across the globe and across every sales 

channel, we simply cannot see any discernible impact of 

high inflation.” 

Our collection of unforgettable jewellery designs are crafted 

in premium 18ct gold, centred around unique, one-of-a-kind 

Australian Sapphires. The pieces in this range have been 

embellished with beautiful White Diamonds, to enhance the 

incredible hues of the Australian Sapphire. 

SapphireDreams.com.au

News 

Luk Fook aiming for rapid retail expansion 

Michael Hill origin story 

Luk Fook’s development as a major retailer in 

Hong Kong and mainland China will continue 

with a company spokesperson outlining a plan to 

add 500 retail stores in the coming year. 

Luk Fook has reported a 32.5 per cent increase 

in sales during the most recent financial year 

and in the same period of time added a new 443 

retail locations. 

Sales reached $US1.49 billion, headlined by a 42 

per cent rise in Hong Kong and Macau and a 40 per 

cent rise in mainland China. 

Luk Fook’s online sales ($US173 million) surged by 

more 60 per cent for the year. CEO and chairman 

Wong Wai Sheung said the business was aiming to 

capitalise on a younger demographic. 

“In light of the enormous spending potential of 

young consumers on online sales platforms, the 

group will continue its endeavours to promote 

the sales of affordable luxury jewellery products 

to expand its footprint in the young consumer 

market,” he said. 

“We target to achieve a double-digit growth in 

revenue in the coming year and look forward to 

reaching record high profit in 3 years.” 

Sheung added that the company is targeting a 

further 20 per cent increase in online sales in 

the year to come. 

Approximately 50 stores will open under Luk Fook’s 

new diffusion brands, including Joaillerie targeting 

the high-end market, and Heirloom Fortune. 

“The Group has set up its brand new threeyear 

corporate strategy with mainland market 

expansion, branding and operational efficiency 

as its three main focuses so as to foster its future 

business growth,” Wong said. 

With a focus on the design and retail of a variety of 

gold and platinum jewellery and gem-set jewellery 

products, Luk Fook now has a total of more than 

2,800 points of sale worldwide. 

Australian jewellery retailer Michael Hill 

International has wound back the clock to the 

origins of the business with the launch of a new 

marketing campaign. 

In order to celebrate a new bridal range, 

Michael Hill has released a three-minute film 

that documents the relationship between Sir 

Michael and Lady Christine Hill. The film begins 

with their first meeting in 1964 through to their 

wedding and includes the opening of the first 

Michael Hill store in 1979. 

Michael Hill chief marketing officer Jo Feeney said 

the history of the business is as important as ever. 

“We are showcasing the care, craft, and passion 

behind the jewelry we sell,” she said. 

Michael Hill International is listed both in the ASX 

and NZX and operates 280 stores throughout 

Australia, New Zealand, and Canada. 

Bracelets & Necklaces | Bangles | Earrings 

Pendants | Fine Chains | Rings | Findings 

Personalised Jewellery | Cufflinks 

Email info@eugenesjewellery.com.au 

Address 802/125 Swanston Street, Melbourne VIC 3000 

Phone 03 9662 4486 

eugenesjewellery.com.au

News 

Sotheby's responsible for lost diamonds? 

COLOUR 

A state appeals court in the US has ruled that auction house Sotheby’s may 

be liable for the disappearance of $US4 million of colour yellow diamonds. 

The lawsuit began in 2020 when M&L Financial, a financial services firm, 

alleged Sotheby’s incorrectly released a collection of diamonds to an 

unnamed individual. 

In April of 2019, Jona Rechnitz, owner of Jadelle Jewelry and Diamonds of 

Beverly Hills, provided 45 fancy colour yellow diamonds to M&L Financial as 

security for a debt. Along with the exchange, Rechnitz and M&L Financial 

agreed the diamonds would not be further moved so Rechnitz could regain 

them at a later date. 

According to the filing, Rechnitz and a representative from M&L Financial 

met in April of 2019 with Quig Bruning, Sotheby’s senior vice president, and 

arranged for the diamonds to be appraised in New York. 

It’s alleged that Bruning listed both M&L Financial and Jadelle Jewelry as 

consignors for the appraisal, despite M&L Financial being the sole owner of 

the diamonds as a result of the debt arrangement. 

Later that year, a representative from M&L Financial contacted Sotheby’s 

seeking the outcome of the appraisal. The representative was informed that 

the diamonds had been released to an associate of Jadelle Jewelry. 

M&L Financial states it has not been able to recover the diamonds since 

they were released by Sotheby’s. At a previous hearing, a lower court ruled 

that as Jadelle Jewelry was listed as a consignor, Sotheby’s was correct to 

release the diamonds to the associate. 

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On 14 July however, the Court of Appeals in California disagreed with 

that ruling and cleared M&L Financial to levy breach of contract litigation 

against Sotheby’s. 

According to CNN Business, Jadelle Jewelry no longer has a website and 

is not contactable via phone. Owner Rechnitz could not be contacted for 

comment. A spokesperson for Sotheby’s told CNN the consignment was 

handled like any other. 

“Sotheby’s regards the allegations in the complaint as baseless and riddled 

with untruths and mischaracterisations,” the spokesperson said. 

"The person who retrieved the property was an authorised agent for Jadelle 

Jewelry. Consignors regularly instruct Sotheby's to release to an agent 

and here, upon pick-up, the agent provided the necessary identification as 

required. We will continue to vigorously defend this in court.” 

The case is further complicated by claims from M&L Financial that 

Sotheby’s was recommended as an auction house due to a personal 

relationship between Rechnitz and Bruning. Sotheby’s has denied the two 

held any connection beyond a business relationship. 

Rechnitz, the owner of Jadelle Jewelry, has a colourful history. Prior to 

the launch of Jadelle Jewelry, he was the founder of real estate firm JSR 

Capital and an employee of Lev Leviev’s company Africa Israel Investments. 

Rechnitz pleaded guilty to wire fraud in 2016 in a case that involved the 

alleged bribery of public and union officials. He was sentenced to five 

months in prison and a further five months of house arrest in a court in 

New York. 

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News 

Mining giant Alrosa revives exports despite sanctions 

Questions have been raised about the effectiveness 

of economic sanctions placed against mining 

juggernaut Alrosa following reports that Russian 

rough diamond sales remain healthy. 

Following the invasion of Ukraine in late February, 

political powers in the US, EU, and UK took 

punitive action and placed sanctions prohibiting 

the import of diamonds mined in Russia. Despite 

these sanctions remaining in place, Bloomberg 

News is reporting that Alrosa continues to sell 

$US250 million in rough diamonds each month. 

Comparatively, in January of this year - prior to 

the invasion - Alrosa sold approximately $US325 

million in diamonds. 

“The panic that gripped the diamond world this 

year is starting to unwind as sanctioned Russian 

mining giant Alrosa has quietly revived exports to 

near pre-war levels,” the Bloomberg News report 

states. 

“Most of the Russian stones are heading to 

manufacturers in India — the biggest among 

a handful of industry hubs, where hundreds of 

mostly family-owned businesses cut and polish 

rough stones into the finished products, ready to 

be used in earrings and engagement rings. 

“There is no indication that any sales have 

breached sanctions or laws. But there is still a 

widespread unease about the implications of 

dealing in Russian goods, said the people. 

“The deals are being done quietly — even by the 

closed-doors standards of the famously secretive 

diamond world — and Alrosa has stopped 

publishing any information on its sales or financial 

performance.” 

Russia produces more than one-third of the 

world’s supply of rough diamonds, the vast 

majority of which are mined by Alrosa. The 

Russian Government owns 33 per cent of Alrosa. 

More than 50,000 visitors 

flock to India Jewellery Show 

The 38th edition of the India International Jewellery 

Show (IIJS) has been ruled a success by organisers 

after generating more than 50,000 visitors. 

Hosted at the Bombay Exhibition Centre in Mumbai 

from 4-8 August, the IIJS was the largest gems 

and jewellery exhibition hosted by the Gem and 

Jewellery Export Promotion Council’s (GJEPC) to 

date. 

More than 1750 exhibitors presented across the 

five days at India’s biggest gathering of domestic 

and international buyers. GJEPC chairman Colin 

Shah said he hoped the success of the event was a 

sign of things to come for the local trade. 

“It is estimated that Rs.50,000 core worth of 

business will be generated in the next 4-6 months. 

It has brought cheer to not just its participants, but 

also indicated that the festive and wedding season 

will drive jewellery sales at the retail end. 

“Despite the recent duty hike on gold, market 

sentiments remained strong towards the yellow 

metal. With the phenomenal buying that has taken 

place at IIJS Premiere, there’s no doubt that this is 

going to be a bumper Diwali.” 

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News 

New supply agreement for 

Australian diamond miner 

Featuring the delicate pink tone 

of Argyle pink diamonds 

Australia’s Burgundy Diamond Mines (BDM) has signed an agreement to 

supply polished fancy colour diamonds to jeweller Solid Gold Diamonds. 

In an announcement on Wednesday, BDM managing director Peter 

Ravenscroft said the fancy colour diamonds would be a part of the Maison 

Mazerea brand and used for engagement and bridal jewellery. 

“These exciting sales and profit-sharing agreements are a result of our 

successful launch of Maison Mazerea in line with our vertically integrated 

business model and strategy to be a world-leading, end-to-end diamond 

company,” he said. 

The second line of fine jewellery featuring high-value diamonds is expected 

to debut in October. Solid Gold Diamonds have a flagship store in Perth, as 

well as a second location in Adelaide. 

BDM has also entered a new partnership with the Princess Grace 

Foundation, a charity that supports artists associated with dance, theatre 

and film. A luxury brand, named Grace de Monaco, will be launched in New 

York in November. 

In December, the miner announced its first supply agreement with luxury 

French jeweller Bäumer Vendôme. BDM plans to produce 1,200 carats of 

polished fancy colour diamonds each year. 

Based in WA, BDM opened a factory in July of last year in Australia with the 

aim of cutting and polishing fancy colour diamonds extracted from its own 

projects. BDM acquired the historic Ellendale Mine in 2021. 

Ancient jewellery discovered in 

Bahamas' shark invested waters 

A priceless stash of jewellery has been discovered in the wreck of a 

Spanish galleon that sunk in the Bahamas in the 1600s. The Nuestra 

Señora de las Maravillas (Our Lady of Wonders) sunk in shark-infested 

waters on the western side of the Little Bahama Bank off Grand 

Bahama Island, more than 70km offshore, in early January of 1656. 

The galleon was returning to Spain with a manifest reporting five 

million pesos worth of treasure, including silver salvaged from a 

shipwreck in Ecuador. Historians believe much more treasure was 

likely on board, left unreported as contraband. 

The galleon unexpectedly ran into shallow water and was rammed by 

another ship, forcing the captain to ground the Maravillas on a nearby 

reef. The wreckage was scattered and Spanish salvagers recovered 

approximately one-tenth of the treasure. Additional recoveries were 

performed in the decades to come, however, more than half of the 

treasure remains unfound. 

Become a stockist today 

02 9290 2199

10 Years Ago 

Time Machine: September 2012 

A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in Jeweller. 

Historic Headlines 

4 Swallowed diamond revealed as ‘fake’ 

4 Guess watches renew support for cancer research 

4 Second arrest over $2.5 million jewellery haul 

4 Australian mining company finds huge diamond 

4 Magnolia launches Alex Perry jewellery 

STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON 

Retailers who stand still will go broke 

“If systems and protocols cannot correlate 

customer data and provide predictive 

trends and intelligent ways to reduce the 

cost of the sale, drive sales strategy and 

improve sales effectiveness, the systems 

will no longer survive.” 

READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON 


Jewellery Fair suppliers deny 

online retailer 

An Australian internet retailer who attended 

the recent Sydney Jewellery Fair to order new 

stock found little success, claiming all of the 

brands she was interested in declined to open 

an online-only account. 

Melanie Hawgood launched her online jewellery 

and accessories store Komali Moon earlier this 

year and experienced rapid initial growth, stocking 

mainly overseas-based jewellery brands. 

However, when Hawgood attempted to 

secure new stock from Australian jewellery 

wholesalers exhibiting at the recent Sydney fair, 

she says she was flatly refused. 

“I started my website by stocking a lot of brands 

I know from overseas and they have not had an 

issue at all with my business being an online 

retailer,” she said. 

20-carat diamond sells at 

Aussie auction 

A near-record diamond and a historic watch 

were standouts at Sotheby’s recent jewellery 

sale in Melbourne, with both local and 

international buyers showing strong interest 

in many of the high-end collectors’ items. 

The Important Jewels sales comprised 217 

lots and sold for $1,213,992, including buyer’s 

premium (IBP). 

Large diamond pieces were standouts of the 

sale, including one of the largest diamonds to 

be auctioned in Australia, a 20.15-carat round 

brilliant cut diamond, claw set and mounted in 

18ct gold. 

The show-stopping piece sold for $222,000, 

which was at the upper end of the pre-auction 

estimate of $185,000 to $222,000. 

September 2012 

ON THE COVER Thomas Sabo 

Editor’s Desk 

4Not what we expected: “One jeweller 

learned of the new laws only when her 

customer cancelled an $8,000 order 

of custom-made, gold bangles. The 

retailer had taken an initial deposit and 

progressive payments totalling $7,000 

before the customer abandoned the 

order and demanded a refund under 

lay-by rules. 

Having to refund cancelled lay-bys is 

no great problem when it involves stock 

items, but if your store offers a special 

makes service, there are ways to avoid 

being caught by this loophole, but one 

must be wary of rushing off to prepare 

their own binding legal agreements.” 

Soapbox 

4 Straight to the soul : “Which customer 

do you want to attract? 

With the huge volume that Pandora 

has been selling, we have had our 

fair share of after-sales service 

issues – it is challenging to come up 

with a framework that empowers the 

retailers to give the best possible aftersales 

service. Eight years on, however, 

we are focusing on this very issue as 

we know that every happy customer 

will be a repeat customer.” 

– Karin Adcock, former president 

Pandora Australia 

Dancing diamonds dazzle 

jewellery buyers 

The Twinkle Setting is an innovative new 

jewellery concept which allows the stone 

to continually move to create a consistent 

sparkle, alluding to the vision of “dancing” 

diamonds. 

Launched at the Hong Kong fair on Friday, 

the Dancing Stone is the brainchild of 

Japanese jewellery designer, Hidetaka 

Dobashi. 

The centre diamond is suspended from 

two fine points and is designed so that the 

stone does not touch the wearer’s body but 

continually moves in a vibrating fashion, 

creating a continual sparkle from the 

swinging momentum. 

Bering launches in Australia 

BYMR unveiled Danish watch brand Bering as 

the fourth and newest key watch brand in its 

stable at the Sydney International Jewellery 

Fair this weekend. 

The Australian distributor formerly known as 

Jarass has undergone significant changes to 

its branding this year but has maintained its 

fascination with simple and elegant watch designs. 

Bering joins other watch brands Braun, Gant 

and Rosendahl as the four new additions to the 

BYMR stable of brands this year. 

Created by Danish adventurer and businessman 

Rene Kaerskov in collaboration with friend 

Michael Witt Johansen, Bering was inspired 

by the simple beauty and infinite white expanse 

of ice Kaerskov observed on a trip to the North 

Pole. 


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ADELAIDE BRISBANE HOBART MELBOURNE PERTH SYDNEY 

Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts 

and consumers about gemstones

REVIEW 

Gems 

Garnets Part I: Pyrope, Almandine, Spessartine 

Above: Piaget; Stephen 

Silver Fine Jewelry; Dior 

Below: Selim Mouzannar; 

Sunita Nahata 

Historically, garnets have played a 

significant role in the world of gems. 

They have adorned the necks of high 

society ranging from Egyptian pharaohs 

to Victorian-era royalty and beyond. 

Pliny the Elder, a famous historian of 

Ancient Rome, detailed the colour range 

of garnets in his works from 70 A.D. 

Gemmologically, the garnets used as 

gemstones are a complex family of 

minerals comprising pyrope, almandine, 

spessartine, uvarovite, grossular, and 

andradite. 

A single garnet gem is a mix between 

these different varieties (for example – 

50 per cent pyrope, 50 per cent 

almandine), within limits. 

The ability to substitute elements within 

the structure for other elements of 

a similar size and nature, in the way 

garnets do, is known as solid solution. 

It is this solid solution characteristic that 

makes the gemmological constants of 

garnet more variable than most other 

gem species. 

Garnets occur in all colours and shades 

except pure blue. The resultant colour 

of the gem depends on the variable 

composition (which of the garnet endmembers 

are present). 

Pyrope, almandine, and spessartine form 

a solid solution series together, with 

varying amounts of each type within one 

stone. These, particularly almandine 

and pyrope, are the most commonly 

occurring. They exhibit a range of 

brownish, orangish, or purplish red hues 

and generally comprise the colour range 

most people associate with garnet. 

For garnets of very high spessartine 

content alongside almandine, colours 

|can be an eye-catching vivid orange, 

often referred to in the trade as ‘Fanta 

orange’. 

If the orange colour features a brownish 

secondary hue, these may be termed 

‘mandarin’ in the trade. These gems are 

rare; found in Bavaria, Italy, Sri Lanka, 

Madagascar, India, Brazil, and even 

Broken Hill in NSW. 

An intermediate garnet of pyrope and 

almandine is responsible for the popular 

Rhodolite variety of garnet, valued for its 

raspberry, purplish-red hues. Rhodolite 

garnets are found in Tanzania, East 

Africa, Sri Lanka, India, and Madagascar. 

More recently discovered is another 

variety of Rhodolite garnet – a deposit 

in Mozambique produces these garnets 

with a striking purple hue, much closer 

to pure in colour (without a strong 

secondary hue) than the traditional 

rhodolite garnets. 

When spessartine becomes more 

prominent in the stone along with 

pyrope (and varying amounts of 

almandine and grossular garnet also), 

the colours produced may parallel that 

of padparadscha sapphire. 

These pale pinkish oranges to deeper 

orange/pinks, along with hues of a more 

yellowish orange originate from Tanzania 

and are known in the trade as Malaia (or 

Malaya) garnet. 

Colour: Red, yellow, 

orange, pink, purple 

Found in: US, Russia, 

Tanzania, Myanmar, 

Argentina, Brazil, 

Australia, India, Zambia, 

Madagascar, Sri Lanka, 

Bavaria, Italy 

Mohs Hardness: 6.5-7.5 

Lustre: Vitreous 

Formula: General formula 

for garnet: A3B2C3O12 

Pyrope: Mg3Al2(SiO4) ³ 

Almandine: Fe3Al2(SiO4 ³ 

Spessartine: Mn3Al2(SiO4) ³ 

Another variety fresh on the scene is a 

unique blue-green coloured garnet (a 

colour never previously seen except in 

garnets with a strong colour-change), 

reportedly from the border of Tanzania 

and Kenya. 

In addition to the fantastic warm 

colours seen in the pyrope-almandinespessartine 

garnet series – the addition 

of chromium and/or vanadium in the gem 

can also produce a colour-change affect. 

Malaia garnets, for example, may 

produce a slight colour shift to generally 

more intense colours under incandescent 

light than in daylight, whilst other, more 

vanadium-rich pyrope-spessartine 

garnets can produce a strong colour 

change from a bluey-green in daylight to 

a purplish-red under incandescent light. 

Overall, gem garnets come in an 

incredible range of colours and varieties 

– often unbeknownst to the average 

jewellery client. 

With a hardness ranging from 6.5 to 7.5, 

they are reasonably scratch resistant, 

lack cleavage, and are suitable for a 

range of jewellery designs, provided they 

are not worn every day. 

Mikaelah Egan FGAA Dip DT 

began her career in the industry at 

Diamonds of Distinction in 2015. She now 

balances her role at the Gemmological 

Association of Australia with studying 

geology at the University of Queensland. 

Visit instagram.com/mikaelah.egan 

For more information on gems and 

gemmology ,go to www.gem.org.au 


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FEATURE 

Pink Diamonds 

ARE YOU GETTING WHAT YOU PAID FOR? 

Pink diamonds are among the most valuable and sought after gemstones on Earth. 

SAMUEL ORD explores the complicated world of certification practices in order to 

ensure you get your money’s worth! 

Image: Pink Kimberley Diamonds

For any collector of luxury goods, few 

things matter more than a guarantee 

that you’re getting what you pay for. 

Whether it’s fine art, vintage automobiles, or in 

this case – diamonds – all collectors seek an 

assurance that the item being purchased is as 

advertised. 

Equal parts rare and remarkable, fancy colour 

pink diamonds, particularly those originating 

from Australia’s Kimberley region, continue to 

be among the world’s most exceptional and 

valuable diamonds. 

Pink diamonds have been unearthed in many 

major diamond-producing regions, including 

Brazil, Russia, Canada, and a range of African 

nations, including Tanzania, South Africa, 

Botswana, Angola, and of course, Australia. 

Naturally, no two pink diamonds are the same, and 

those extracted from the Argyle mine in Western 

Australia stand alone in terms of quality – and as 

a result, collectors are increasingly demanding 

confirmation of this quality via certification. 

John Chapman is the director of Delta Diamond 

Laboratory and has dedicated much of his life to 

developing a largely unrivalled understanding of 

the characteristics of Argyle pink diamonds. 

With nearly four decades of experience in the 

industry, including multiple PhD studies on Argyle 

pink diamonds with the Universities in Western 

Australia, Melbourne and the UK, Chapman says 

that there’s still much to learn. 

“The Argyle deposit is somewhat unique in its 

geological history. 

“The diamonds within seem to have experienced 

a hotter life in the depths of the earth resulting in 

migration and clustering of impurity atoms within 

the diamond,” Chapman tells Jeweller. 

“Most importantly”, he adds, “the regular 

diamond structure has suffered forces that have 

distorted the lattice and generated unique atomic 

defect structures that give rise to pink. 

“However the precise nature of the structure 

remains a mystery despite much university 

research.” 

Chapman continues: “Pinks are found in 

other locations too, but they have a different 

concentration of the most common impurity - 

nitrogen and other trace impurities that tend to 

give rise to a slightly purplier or orangey hue.” 

Problem 

For the collectors of pink diamonds, the issue of 

provenance and certification weighs heavily on 

the minds of collectors. 

With such an important demarcation existing 

between Argyle pink diamonds and the remainder 

of the world’s supply, certification and provenance 

become increasingly important concepts. 

A recent opinion article in Jeweller by William 

Gant, LJ West managing director, stressed that 

evidence of origin is crucial for the trade. 

“Provenance has become a crucial factor for 

collectors of the legendary Argyle pink and 

violet diamonds,” he says. 

“The diamonds within seem to have 

experienced a hotter life in the depths of the 

Earth resulting in migration and clustering 

of impurity atoms within the diamond.” 

- JOHN CHAPMAN - 

“If 90 per cent of the world’s pink diamonds 

have been discovered in Western Australia, it’s 

important that the other stones are not passed 

off as Argyle pinks. 

“Unfortunately certificates from independent 

labs typically do not state the origin of the 

stone. It comes as no surprise then that many 

collectors of Argyle pinks and violets will demand 

certificates issued by the mine itself, to prove 

beyond doubt that the stones originated from 

the Argyle deposit.” 

Rio Tinto has been issuing certificates with 

pink diamonds since the early days of the mine, 

however, the size and quality of diamond that 

qualifies for a certificate has changed over time. 

Therefore, many Argyle pink diamonds were 

never issued a certificate, and in some instances, 

documentation has been lost over time – not an 

issue unique to Argyle pink diamonds, but an 

issue nonetheless. 

It wasn’t until 2005 that Argyle Mine diamonds 

began to be laser inscripted. That certification 

was limited to diamonds weighing 0.2 carats and 

above, and it wasn’t until more than a decade 

later – within a handful of years of the mine 

closing – that smaller diamonds and 10-pointers 

began to receive certification. 

This limitation of the mine’s certification presents 

a major thorn in the side of collectors. 

“This means that the vast majority of pink 

and violet diamonds from the Argyle deposit – 

including from the peak of the mine’s production 

around the turn of the millennium, when Argyle 

produced fully a third of the world’s diamonds – 

are not certified with inscriptions to link them,” 

Gant explains. 

“This restricts some collectors, focused on 

acquiring Argyle certifed pinks and violets, 

from getting the chance to own them, as 

supply is so limited. 

“Fortunately, laboratory analyses have become 

increasingly sophisticated, enough to be able to 

verify the origin of a diamond in some instances.” 

Solution 

Laboratories today are able to create a 

geological identity for a diamond by measuring 

characteristics such as atomic impurity and 

temperature conditioning. 

The detailed optical and spectroscopic analysis 

compares one pink diamond with the identity of 

others known to have originated from the Argyle 

mine and other desposits, and certification is 

thus achievable. 

Chapman is responsible for his laboratory, based 

in Perth, and his lab records multiple properties 

using ultra-violet, infra-red light and lasers. 

The interactions produce signatures that are 

presented in the Delta certificate. Certificates 

also include photos of the fluorescence and 

spectra. Impurities caused by nitrogen impart 

nuances to the spectra and optical behaviour, 

leading to the identification of pinks from the 

Argyle mine. 

Chapman says the desire for detailed provenance 

information from collectors has continued to 

drive the science. 

“Education and online transactions have perhaps 

resulted in a greater emphasis on certificates,” 

he explains. 

“Consumers are more familiar with the 4Cs but 

rely on certificates to give them the grade of 

a diamond. Without certificates, a transaction 

would have to happen in person and most 

consumers would be uncomfortable making a 

call on colour or clarity. Delta doesn’t certify 

colour or clarity, yet, as most diamonds have GIA 

reports that are more recognised. 


Pink Diamonds | ARE YOU GETTING WHAT YOU PAID FOR? 

Background: East Kimberley Western Australia. 

Image source: Rio Tinto 

Australian Pink 

Diamond Exchange (APDX) 

“My experience hasn’t had much direct experience with 

consumers, so I can only comment as a bystander. I’ve 

observed that there seems to be a greater emphasis on 

the certificate paper that accompanies a diamond and that 

consumers are regarding their purchase more under the 

lens of an investor. 

“Purchases of pink diamonds seem to be less about 

making a nice piece of jewellery and more about storing 

it away in the hopes of making a profit later.” 

Unique fingerprint 

Another Australian scientist has played a key role in the 

evolution of the science behind diamond certification – 

Professor John Watling. 

An expert in forensic and analytic chemistry, Watling 

says that laser technology can be used to generate a 

unique fingerprint from a pink diamond. 

This fingerprint reveals which section of kimberlite 

pipe the diamond originated from, allowing Argle pink 

diamonds to separate from diamonds found elsewhere. 

"Think of it as inorganic DNA, if you like," Watling tells 

ABC News. 

"Because there is no such thing as, obviously, DNA in 

non-life form. This is the equivalent of that. 

"The original start of this was a technique called gold 

fingerprinting. 

"In 1974, I got involved with some police work when a 

747 — that was transporting boxes of lead to America from 

South Africa to make lead toys — had an engine problem 

and landed in Heathrow Airport, and they unloaded it. They 

cut one of these lead ingots in half and the core was gold.” 

Watling has worked at both Curtin University and the 

University of Western Australia and his provenance 

technology is now being used not only determine the 

origins of diamonds and gold, but also food products too. 

Wind back the clock 

Pink diamonds were first discovered in India at mines 

within the legendary Golconda kingdom. 

It’s from this region that the Darya-i-Noor originates, 

the largest pink diamond in the world, polished at 186 

carats from the Kollur Mine. The diamond is currently 

part of the Iranian crown jewels in Tehran. 

Pink diamonds were discovered in Brazil in the 17th 

century, with Russia and a host of African nations soon 

becoming sourced for fancy colour diamonds as mining 

capabilities expanded over time. 

The output from these locations, however, would pale in 

comparison to that of the Argyle Mine in the Kimberly 

region of Western Australia. 

PINK DI A MONDS 

Expert Insight 

John Chapman 

Delta Diamond Laboratory 

“Consumers are more familiar 

with the 4Cs but rely on 

certificates to give them the 

grade of a diamond. Without 

certificates, a transaction would 

have to happen in person and 

most consumers would be 

uncomfortable making a call on 

colour or clarity. ” 

William Gant 

LJ West Diamonds 

“Unfortunately certificates from 

independent labs typically do 

not state the origin of the stone. 

It comes as no surprise then 

that many collectors of Argyle 

pinks and violets will demand 

certificates issued by the mine 

itself, to prove beyond doubt that 

the stones originated from the 

Argyle deposit.” 

Patrick Coppens 

Rio Tinto Diamonds 

“Today’s luxury world makes 

so many claims to ‘rare’. 

Luxury goods, many produced 

in multiples, and original only 

through customisation of 

monograms, are deemed 

‘one-offs’. Argyle Pink Diamonds, 

in contrast, are truly rare.” 

Patrick Coppens, general manager sales and marketing 

at Rio Tinto Diamonds, tells Jeweller that while the science 

behind the gemstones continues to evolve and improve, 

Argyle pinks are consistently recognisable. 

“The Argyle Diamond Mine, over its 38-year history has 

produced virtually the world’s entire source of rare pink 

diamonds,” he explains. 

“Whilst there has been sporadic production of pink 

diamonds from other parts of the world, never before 

and never since, has there been a diamond mine that 

consistently produced rare pink diamonds like the Argyle 

diamond mine. 

Pink diamonds were discovered in Brazil in the 

17th century, with Russia and a host of African 

nations soon becoming sourced for fancy colour 

diamonds as mining capabilities expanded over time. 

“The depth and range of colour of Argyle pink diamonds is 

very unique and easily recognisable by diamantaires around 

the world. From a certifiable source, this very small but 

consistent volume of rare diamonds has a range of colours 

including reds, blues and violets along with pink diamonds 

in every shade on that spectrum.” 

The Argyle diamond mine is located in the Kimberley region 

in the far northeast of WA, found to the south-west of Lake 

Argyle in the Matsu Ranges, around 550 kilometres southwest 

of Darwin. 

The region became of interest for miners in the late 

19th century, as gold prospectors uncovered deposits of 

diamonds. The mine wouldn’t be officially commissioned 

until December of 1985, reaching peak production in 

1994 with 42 million carats unearthed. The open pit mine 

produced more than 750 million carats in total. 

While just 5 per cent of the mined diamonds were of gem 

quality – down compared to the 20 per cent worldwide 

average – the best were unmatched. 

The international jewellery community took great notice 

as fancy colour red, purple, and pink diamonds were 

unearthed bearing unrivalled quality. 90 per cent of the 

world’s supply of pink diamonds would originate from WA. 

With the closure of the Argyle Mine in 2020, LJ West’s 

Gant says the market’s thirst for pink diamonds is easy 

to understand. 

“Argyle-certified stones are becoming scarcer by the day 

with the mine no longer in production,” Gant says. 

“Demand continues to be intense. The value of pinks and 

violets have grown; with limited supply and high demand, it 


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Pink Diamonds | ARE YOU GETTING WHAT YOU PAID FOR? 

Blush Pink Diamonds. 

is a simple economic reality. 

“Most consumers want an Argyle pink, and they 

want to be sure they get what they paid for.” 

Diamond provenance became a hot topic in the 

1990s and early 2000s, as consumers became 

increasingly aware of the existence of “blood 

diamonds” – gemstones stemming from sources 

of conflict or war, with which the proceeds may 

be used to fuel violence or support organisations 

responsible for violence. 

Provenance soon began to play a key role in 

the diamond and gemstone industries, both 

as an assurance that a product was “sourced 

responsibly” and also as a powerful marketing 

tool to reinforce beliefs surrounding quality. 

What’s the difference? 

It’s easy to understand why fancy colour pink 

diamonds are beloved by collectors worldwide – 

as is the case with a wide range of gemstones, 

the item itself is an intricate thing of beauty, 

formed over millions of years under pressure 

and heat. 

While scientists are still attempting to 

understand which factors specifically lead to 

the pink colour, it’s believed that high-pressure 

graining is a sign of a deeply compressed 

internal structure, resulting in the colour. 

What is it, however, that separates Argle pink 

diamonds from those discovered in Africa, 

Russia or South America? 

The 4Cs – colour, clarity, cut, carat – are the 

most familiar to the typical diamond consumer. 

The quality of colour observed in pink diamonds 

mined from the Argyle Mine far exceeds that of 

pink diamonds mined elsewhere. 

Specifically, Argyle pinks have a distinct tone with 

clear red, purple and blue influences, while other 

pink diamonds are usually said to have a muted 

colour more reminiscent of bubblegum. 

Rio Tinto’s Coppens says Argyle pink diamonds 

are an authentic “one-off”. 

“Acquiring an Argyle pink diamond is about 

incomparability with their allure and perpetual 

value similar to an art collector’s attitude,” he says. 

“Their rarity, vibrancy of colour, natural beauty, 

rich provenance, and historical importance is 

the hallmark of an Argyle pink diamond. 

“Today’s luxury world makes so many claims 

to ‘rare’. Luxury goods, many produced 

in multiples, and original only through 

customisation of monograms, are deemed 

‘one-offs’. 

“Argyle Pink Diamonds, in contrast, are truly 

rare.” 

Coppens continues by explaining that the 

global supply of pink diamonds is limited by the 

circumstances of the moment of their creation – 

more than two billion years ago. 

“Once unearthed, each Argyle pink diamond 

over eight points was authenticated with 

documentation and a unique lot number 

laser inscribed on the gem, visible only under 

magnification. 

“The inscription and documentation represent 

an important guarantee regarding the chain of 

custody from the Argyle diamond mine to the 

point of purchase, providing assurance that the 

gem has always been in the care of Argyle pink 

diamonds and its trusted trade partners.” 

Philosophical conundrum 

Armed with an understanding of what separates 

Australia’s pink diamonds from the rest of the 

world, an interesting conundrum is created. 

If it were possible to have two identical pink 

diamonds – one from the Argyle deposit and one 

from, say, Africa – would there be a difference in 

value between the two diamonds? 

Chapman says, “Strangely enough – yes.” 

“The price difference would be quite significant, 

which shows the power of a brand. Rubies and 

sapphires also enjoy premium if they come from 

Burma (Myanmar) in the case of rubies, or Ceylon 

(Sri Lanka) in the case of sapphires. 

“Yet there are other countries that produce equal 

quality rubies and sapphires that can be bought 

at half the price. 

“This is more of a marketing question, however, 

my interpretation is consumers over the 

years have valued knowing the origins of their 

purchases. 

"Combined with the marketing that has 

accompanied Argyle pinks over the life of the 

mine, there is a sense that the Argyle product 

is special and preferred over a pink from some 

unknown deposit. 

“The fact that the mine is now closed adds to the 

perception of a 'limited edition’ and therefore 

appreciating product.” 

Rio Tinto 

In June, Rio Tinto launched its Icon Partner 

program, designed to protect the legacy and 

provenance of Argyle pink diamonds. 

The program offers a certification service 

and trading platform called Beyond Rare for 

special sales events and a number of strategic 

collections and collaborations involving existing 

inventory and the secondary market. 

According to Sinead Kaufman, chief executive 

of Rio Tinto Minerals, “This is the start of a new 

chapter for Argyle Pink Diamonds, to ensure 

they maintain their value and investment 

potential as a finite, unrepeatable natural 

resource and achieve the status of outstanding 

heritage diamonds.” 

International jewellers John Calleija and John 

Glajz have been licensed as Icon Partner and 

granted exclusive rights to develop the remaining 

Argyle pinks into jewellery and limited edition 

pieces. 

Rio Tinto’s Coppens echoed the sentiment of 

Kaufman and said the pink diamond market 

requires careful management to preserve and 

continue the legacy of custody that underscores 

its rarity. 

“Most consumers want an Argyle pink 

and they want to make sure they get 

what they paid for.” 

- WILLIAM GANT - 

“This is a new chapter for Argyle pink diamonds 

and we are looking forward to many initiatives to 

ensure they maintain their value and investment 

potential as a finite, unrepeatable Australian 

natural treasure,” he says. 

He adds that, following the launch of the Icon 

Partner program, “there has been considerable 

relief that Rio Tinto continues to manage the 

Argyle pink diamonds brand. 

The importance of managing the Argyle pink 

diamonds brand came into sharp focus following 

the transition to the closure of the Argyle 

Diamond Mine. 

“There are many instances of external parties 

who have proceeded with opportunistic initiatives 

that claim proprietary knowledge of Argyle pink 

diamonds brand, access to or affiliation with 

our business and ‘passing off’ trademarks and 

proprietary marketing materials.” 


Ultimate Opulence 

Coins from the Opulence 

coin collection from the 

Royal Canadian Mint x 

Kunming. All coins feature 

Argyle pink diamonds. 

'The Ultimate' 'Splendour' 'Grandeur ' 

Market research 

Rio Tinto has previously estimated Argyle pink 

diamond prices have appreciated by 500 per 

cent over the past two decades. Overall pink 

prices rose 116 per cent between 2009 and 

2019, according to the Fancy Color Research 

Foundation (FCRF). 

Based in New York, the FCRF offers quarterly 

insight into the international trade of fancy colour 

diamonds. 

The FCRF recently released data for the second 

quarter of 2022, outlining a 0.8 per cent rise in 

pink diamond sales. 

That sales performance was championed by the 

fancy vivid subsection, which rose 1.5 per cent, 

while the fancy vivid 10-carat and fancy 2-carat 

subsection both rose by 0.9 per cent. 

The biggest increase over the past 12 months 

came from the fancy 5-carat category, rising 

by 6.3 per cent. The only significant decrease 

identified came from the fancy 8-carat category, 

down 1.3 per cent. 

Fancy vivids across all colour categories 

showed an increase of 1 per cent for the second 

quarter, with a rise of 2.6 per cent over the past 

12 months. 

“It is evident that the increase in prices is driven 

by two market forces that haven’t occurred 

simultaneously in quite some time,” FCRF board 

member Ishaia Gol explains. 

“That is, high demand for fancy-colour diamonds 

on the retail side, and fierce competition on 

rough in tenders.” 

Knowledge is power 

It’s been said that in order to move forward, we 

must first go back. 

It’s a sentiment that’s been applied to a range of 

literary contexts and as of 2022, is a crucial idea 

that applies to the world of pink diamonds. 

Consumers increasingly seek a deeper historical 

understanding of the path taken by a diamond, 

from deep within the core of the Earth to 

embedded within the framework of a ring, 

necklace or earrings. 

Suppliers and retailers alike must therefore 

answer this call for knowledge in order to 

maintain the prestige of pink diamonds as a 

category and continue to capture the public’s 

attention and imagination with the innate beauty 

of said gemstones. 

18ct Diamond & Precious Coloured Gemstone Jewellery Collection 

DJDIAMONDDESIGNS.COM.AU 

Daniel Jacuk | 0412 071 103 | sales@djdiamonddesigns.com.au

Kick-start your year at 

a different kind of fair! 

Meet and see ranges that align your 

business for the year ahead! 

March 18 – 19, 2023 

ICC Sydney, Cockle Bay Room 

Darling Harbour 

www.expertiseevents.com.au 

AUSTRALIA’S NO.1 

JEWELLERY EVENTS 

Est. 1990

REVIEW 

International Jewellery Fair 

2022 International Jewellery Fair 

The Sydney Trade Show has been labelled a success 

by buyers, suppliers and everyone in between, SAMUEL ORD reports. 

T 

aking place from 27-29 August, 

more than 140 exhibitors – many of 

which were international companies 

attending for the first time – lined the walls of 

the International Convention Centre in Sydney. 

Expertise Events managing director Gary Fitz- 

Roy, organiser of IJF, said that with a three-year 

break between Fairs due to the COVID pandemic, 

this edition was about laying a groundwork for 

the future. 

“This year was all about getting back to the 

basics,” he said. 

“This time around we wanted to reset the Fair 

and to return what the event has traditionally 

been about. 

He continued: “This industry is an ecosystem and 

we all depend on one-another. We judge people on 

how they carry themselves in the down times, and 

we had a lot of people sticking with us during the 

pandemic.” 

This theme was cemented for visitors upon 

entering the hall for the first time, with a 

presentation titled ‘You’re In Good Company’ 

lighting up the entrance - with the names of 

every exhibitor featured on the wall. 

One of those exhibitors was jewellery and watch 

distributor Timesupply and director Ken Abbott 

said it was great to reconnect with customers, 

particularly those from New Zealand. 

“Saturday was very strong in terms of orders and 

then Sunday was even stronger again, which is 

exactly what we hoped to see,” he said. 

“It was great to see so many people face-to-face, 

especially those who travelled all the way from 

New Zealand.” 

Owner and director of the Ikecho Australia, Erica 

Miller, said the popularity of distinctly Australian 

jewellery items was always a big positive. 

“Sunday was a very successful day for us – by far 

our best day,” she told Jeweller. 

“We always have a lot of fun at the Fair, it’s a great 

chance to have a laugh with old customers and 

start relationships with new ones. 

“We’ve connected with plenty of new customers this 

year which is always great. From what I’ve seen our 

gold jewellery has been particularly popular, while 

newer items featuring Australian opals and pearls 

is drawing a lot of interest.” 

Veer Diamonds was one of many international 

exhibitors to join the IJF in 2022. Travelling to 

Sydney from New York, president Kaushal Shah 

said, “We’ve had a wonderful time, not just at the 

Fair, but in Australia quite generally. 

“Australia is clearly a fantastic country with so many 

opportunities for growth as a business and the 

people have been very kind and welcoming. 

Shah continued: “It’s been great to see so many 

young people involved in this jewellery fair in 

particular.” 

“Young people enter the world of jewellery with 

new ideas and those that are keen to put their own 

unique stamp on the industry like to do things their 

own way, which is exactly what we need.” 

One feature that quickly captured the attention 

of visitors was the unique displays at the Palloys 

exhibition. 

On Saturday, lucky visitors got the chance to hold 

approximately $1 million worth of gold bullion 

– depending on the market price at the time of 

course. On Sunday, the gold bars were replaced by 

the most covered trophy in Australian racing history 

- the 2022 Lexus Melbourne Cup – which is created 

by ABC Bullion. 

Gerrim International capped off a busy three-day 

period with a remarkable giveaway – handing 

one lucky winner a platinum pink tourmaline ring 

featuring a pink diamond, valued at $15,000. 

Buyers were automatically placed in the running to 

win the ring by spending $5000 or more with Gerrim 

at the Fair – with the ring won by Hogans Family 

Jewellers from Toowoomba in Queensland. 

Of course, not everyone attends the IJF simply 

focused on completing orders. 

Lachlan Renshaw, managing director Centrestone 

Jewellery Insurance, told Jeweller it has been an 

exhaustive – but rewarding – three days. 

“We’ve had a very positive experience at the Fair,” 

he said. 

“Obviously our position is a little different in 

attending, we’re here aiming to spend time with 

our customers face-to-face more than anything. 

“We were extremely busy on the Saturday in 

particular which was great.” PICTORIAL TO FOLLOW. 


2022 International Jewellery Fair | A LOOK IN PICTURES 

SEE MORE IMAGES ON 

FACEBOOK & INSTAGRAM 

LJ WEST 

DURAFLEX GROUP AUSTRALIA 

NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS 

PALLOYS 

WORLD SHINER 

LA COURONNE

22 W 48th St, New York, NY 10036, USA 

Call: (212)-764-7841 | Email: sales@elgdiamonds.com 

Website: www.sanghavisolitaire.com/Home/DailySpecial 

IGI Lab Cert# 

534264931 

532262087 

516260983 

516260345 

537214190 

532241396 

526283311 

524239908 

533218412 

536277280 

523271083 

506178075 

523276225 

534266429 

517203267 

534262371 

534262378 

516277629 

517289318 

490100577 

472171350 

530290042 

533286699 

526267169 

512239762 

519231673 

516282605 

522229663 

524250727 

517284391 

536287604 

519265945 

499105024 

528227217 

522229220 

522239588 

530210666 

532271850 

537257011 

Shape 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

BR 

PR 

PR 

PS 

PS 

EM 

EM 

CU 

CU 

RAD 

RAD 

MQ 

HS 

HS 

AS 

OV 

OV 

OV 

OV 

Col/Clar 

G-VVS2 

E-VS2 

G-VS1 

F-VS1 

E-VS1 

F-VS1 

E-VS1 

D-VS1 

F-SI1 

E-VS1 

F-VS2 

I-VS1 

F-VS1 

E-VS1 

D-VS1 

F-VS1 

F-VS1 

D-VS1 

E-VVS2 

D-VVS1 

D-VS1 

H-VS1 

G-VS1 

G-VS1 

H-VVS2 

E-VS1 

F-VVS2 

H-VS2 

F-VS1 

E-VS1 

E-VS1 

F-VVS2 

E-VS1 

F-VS1 

G-VS1 

G-SI1 

F-VVS2 

G-VS2 

G-SI1 

Cut 

ID 

ID 

ID 

ID 

ID 

ID 

ID 

EX 

EX 

EX 

ID 

EX 

EX 

ID 

EX 

ID 

ID 

ID 

EX 

ID 

ID 

Polish 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

Symmetry 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

EX 

Discount% 

-96.00 

-96.00 

-96.40 

-96.50 

-96.50 

-96.60 

-96.50 

-96.00 

-96.00 

-96.40 

-96.40 

-96.00 

-96.00 

-96.90 

-96.80 

-96.75 

-96.75 

-96.25 

-96.40 

-96.90 

-96.90 

-95.50 

-95.75 

-93.50 

-93.25 

-97.75 

-97.50 

-95.50 

-95.50 

-95.00 

-95.25 

-93.25 

-95.50 

-95.50 

-96.00 

-94.25 

-95.00 

-95.25 

-94.75 

Depth% 

61.8 

59.4 

62 

61 

61.6 

61.5 

61 

62.8 

62 

63.4 

60.5 

61.3 

62.6 

61.8 

61.9 

62.3 

62.5 

62.3 

60.7 

61.4 

62.3 

75.3 

74.1 

62.4 

62.3 

59.4 

60.5 

67.2 

62.9 

67.8 

67.5 

66.5 

57.7 

60.9 

66.6 

62.8 

63.2 

64.5 

64.7 

Table% 

56.5 

59 

58.5 

56.5 

56.5 

56 

58.5 

55.5 

60 

56 

59.5 

62 

58 

59 

58.5 

55 

57 

57 

60 

59 

57.5 

74.5 

69.5 

61 

58.5 

64.5 

65.5 

60 

62 

63 

66.5 

59.5 

55 

55.5 

66.5 

57 

58.5 

60 

61.5 

Total$ 

$6577.20 

$4147.20 

$3173.76 

$1890.00 

$1873.20 

$1744.20 

$1839.60 

$2236.00 

$1343.12 

$1728.00 

$1404.00 

$1160.00 

$1153.44 

$883.41 

$922.91 

$789.75 

$789.75 

$603.49 

$591.84 

$611.07 

$453.53 

$1474.20 

$1317.50 

$2367.62 

$2004.75 

$7043.40 

$7466.50 

$2446.20 

$1675.35 

$2322.00 

$1804.05 

$2442.15 

$1636.20 

$1530.00 

$2718.00 

$1613.45 

$1953.00 

$1391.28 

$1281.00 

Weight 

4.06 

3.24 

3.04 

2.40 

2.23 

2.28 

2.19 

2.15 

2.06 

2.00 

2.00 

2.00 

1.78 

1.61 

1.51 

1.50 

1.50 

1.21 

1.20 

1.12 

1.10 

2.52 

2.00 

2.35 

2.20 

5.59 

5.48 

3.02 

2.19 

2.58 

2.11 

2.01 

2.02 

2.00 

3.02 

2.30 

2.17 

2.02 

2.00 

SCAN THE 

QR CODE 

TO SEE OUR 

INVENTORY 

LAB DIAMONDS AS LOW AS 97.75% OFF! 

Over 5000 diamonds on hand 

Short and long term memo programs available

2022 International Jewellery Fair | A LOOK IN PICTURES 

SEE MORE IMAGES ON 

FACEBOOK & INSTAGRAM 

RETAIL EDGE 

TIMESUPPLY 

RJ SCANLAN & CO 

IKECHO AUSTRALIA 

RAPID CASTING 

GERRIM 

SAMS GROUP AUSTRALIA 

WORTH & DOUGLAS 

WEST END COLLECTION 

POIX & TROY

FEATURE 

Casting & Refining 

Inset: Palloys 

CASTING & REFINING 

Advances are constantly made in the world of jewellery manufacturing, redefining what can be achieved by designers. 

SAMUEL ORD investigates the next major frontier for the pioneers of casting and refining. 

W 

ith steady improvements being made 

to manufacturing capabilities with 

each passing year, casting and 

refining experts are marching towards a world 

where jewellery creators will only be limited by 

the strength of their imaginations. 

With the costs associated with owning a 3D printer, either 

commercially or privately, plummeting the only question is – 

what hurdles remain in the way? 

The process of casting and refining will always be limited by the 

laws of physics however with the rise of 3D printing paired with 

advances in artificial intelligence, the efficient use of resources 

is consistently on the rise as experts are able to do more with 

less – quicker! 

The Australian jewellery industry is particularly spoiled for 

choice when it comes to casting and refining services, with 

3D printing is well and truly ingrained in the local jewellery 

manufacturing industry and it’s only going to grow further in 

the near future. 

Spearheaded by production manager Ben Farago, Rapid 

Prototyping Services is one such source for local 3D printing 

services - based in Alexandria (NSW) the business focuses on 

bring pairing efficency and quality with every production. 

Rapid Casting operates a suite of high precision MJM (Multi-Jet 

Modelling) 3D printers. The print-head deposits droplets of 

object material and support wax onto a build plate. 

The droplets are placed where they need to be to form a layer 

of the model. After the layer is formed the print-head rises a 

small amount and prints the next layer. The completed model 

is then placed in a solvent to remove the wax, leaving the 

finished object. 

QUOTES FROM THE 

Talking Heads 

E XPERTS 

Technology 

Nick Frappell 

ABC Refinery 

"While the refining part of the 

gold mining process may have 

historically been seen as a 

purely service-related offering 

at end of the value chain, 

ABC Refinery and the broader 

Pallion group have shown how 

refiners can work with their 

mining clients for mutual 

economic, environmental 

and social benefit." 

Greville Ingham 

Peter W Beck 

“We want to be viewed as 

a progressive player in the 

industry with a lot of renewed 

vigour. It’s something very 

important in this industry, 

things can change very quickly 

and you need to constantly 

demonstrate that you’re 

contemporary." 

Rapid Casting has two resident jewellers in-house who verify 

part resolution prior to casting or dispatch ensuring you 

receive the absolute best quality possible. The advantage of 

this approach is that it allows extremely high resolution and 

unrestricted geometries. 

From a design perspective, the rapid rise of 3D printing 

has without a doubt brought about the biggest change to 

the casting and refining industry – and the evolution isn’t 

finished yet. 

Four problems 

Jörg Bromberger, a manufacturing expert at McKinsey & 

Company, told the New York Times that despite coming into 

prominence in the 1980s, 3D printing is only now finding it’s 

feet – and the best is yet to come. 

“It is now a technology that is beginning to deliver industrialgrade 

product quality and printing in volume,” he said. 

He was the lead author of a recent report by the consulting 

firm titled The Mainstreaming of Additive Manufacturing. 

“After decades as a bit player, additive manufacturing is on the 

cusp of stardom,” he says. 

“Faster machines, better materials, and smarter software are 

helping to make AM a realistic solution for many real-world 

production applications. 

“As the technical barriers fall, the onus is on manufacturers 

to improve their understanding of these rapidly evolving 

technologies, building the skills, processes, and business 

models needed to make additive manufacturing shine in the 

industrial world.” 

According to Bromberger’s latest report on additive 

manufacturing, the next step forward for Australian 

manufacturers will be conquering four key challenges. 


Casting & Refining | SKY IS THE LIMIT 

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02 8580 8141 

www.purecasting.com.au 

• Hardware: Advances in machine capability are 

required to improve on slow speeds and limitations 

to build volume and need to be better integrated 

into production workflows. 

Taking an industrial production cell as an example, 

these machines often require the user to combine 

manufacturing, post-processing, and materialhandling 

equipment from different vendors, instead 

of a unified source. This requires cross-training 

which further complicates manufacturing. 

• Software: 3D printing software is susceptible to 

the same issues as the hardware. 

“Additive manufacturing equipment often relies 

on vendor-specific control software, with limited 

integration between different machines or with the 

equipment and production-control systems used in 

the wider plant,” the report states. 

“The technology and know-how necessary to 

achieve consistent quality and stable productivity is 

hard to come by.” 

• Materials: Another major concern for businesses 

utilising 3D printing is the cost of crucial 

engineering materials, with common engineering 

materials becoming more expensive when supplied 

in a format suitable for processing. 

Polymers must be developed for additive 

manufacturing machines, a time-consuming 

and complex process. The additional processing 

required to convert metal alloys into a powder form 

suitable for additive manufacturing machines adds 

significantly to their cost. 

• Services: The fourth hurdle identified in the 

report is an improvement in technical support from 

machinery manufacturers. 

“Users would like more help refining component 

designs to suit specific manufacturing processes, 

for example, or finding ways to improve the quality, 

reliability, and productivity of machines once 

production commences.” 

Of the four challenges facing the 3D printing sector, 

this appears to be the easiest to resolve, as it is 

based on interpersonal relationships rather a lack 

of access to materials, or as of yet inescapable 

shortfalls in capability. 

The future 

The Pallion Group is the largest precious metals 

services group in Australasia with manufacturing 

facilities located in Melbourne, Sydney, Hong Kong 

and Shenzen. 

Since the 1950s, Palloys – one of six entities which 

forms the Pallion Group – has expanded into 

jewellery casting, custom jewellery production and 

CAD/CAM services. 

Earlier this year, Palloys operations manager Chris 

Botha told Jeweller that he believes the rise of 

manufacturing capabilities will lead to jewellery 

reverting to its roots as a bespoke practice. 

“I am starting to see more of a boutique industry 

for CAD/CAM in the coming years,” he says. 

“Previously, the industry demanded workshops of 

hundreds of people, whereas now some workshops 

only require a single person, with their own printer 

and doing their own work. 

“Even if just for prototyping, the CAD/CAM industry 

is becoming a more accessible industry. 

“The CAD software industry is moving towards 

a future where consumers have greater control 

and autonomy. With the constant technological 

evolution, now there are many more user-friendly, 

lower-cost options available for users in terms of 

3D Printers.” 

It’s a romantic notion that sees casting come ‘full 

circle’ via technological advance. 

Casting practices began thousands of years on a 

micro level – as evidenced by the examples such 

as the frog in Mesopotamia in 3200BC. 

From there, casting practices played a crucial role 

in the rise of dominant civilisations in places such 

as Egpypt and China, before even more untapped 

potential was unlocked by the Catholic Church in 

Europe. 

Melting and mold-making processes were used 

in the construction of churches and cathedrals 

across Europe and due to the high demand for 

said construction, major advances were made in 

foundry technology. As a sacred place of worship, 

increasingly intricate designs for these buildings 

were demanded of designers and builders. 

While the technology behind manufacturing 

continued to improve the significant costs 

associated limied production to only the most 

well resourced. 

Now, thanks to the proliferation of practices such 

as 3D printing, casting has the chance to return to 

the micro level where it began – with small scale 

creators able to manufacture jewellery. 

Environmental refining 

Located in Sydney, ABC Refinery is a part of the 

Pallion Group - provide the region precious metal 

refining, assaying, ingot bar casting and minting 

service to both primary and secondary precious 

metal industries. 

Like all businesses, ABC Refinery aims to provide 

customers with a maximised financial return and 

speed of out-turn, however, in recent years a new 

focus has emerged – environmental consciousness. 

Pallion publishes its Considerate Precious Metals 

Sustainability Report each year, detailing the 

company’s moves to meet responsibility and 

sustainability targets. 

ABC Refinery’s global head of institutional markets 

Nick Frappell recently discussed the importance 

“To be a truly trusted partner for gold miners as 

well as investors, traders and consumers, it’s more

Refining 

Best Return 

Best Rates 

Fastest Turnaround 

From Australia’s largest and only independent LBMA 

accredited Gold and Silver refinery 

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Casting & Refining | SKY IS THE LIMIT 

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www.morrisandwatson.com 

than just about being accredited,” Frappell told 

the Gold Mining Journal. 

“The commitment to technical excellence and 

responsibility has to come from within and to my 

mind, that is the cornerstone reason why we are 

seen as stable and trustworthy. 

“While the refining part of the gold mining process 

may have historically been seen as a purely servicerelated 

offering at end of the value chain, ABC 

Refinery and the broader Pallion group have shown 

how refiners can work with their mining clients for 

mutual economic, environmental and social benefit.” 

One of the latest initiatives at ABC Refinery has 

been the creation of a provenance platform 

that will record the ‘fingerprint’ of precious 

metals products to enable traceability, as well 

as protection from interference. ABC Refinery 

partnered with software company Blockhead 

Technologies to create this platform. 

“Complementing that responsible sourcing and 

environmental commitment are ABC Refinery’s 

developments in the electronic tracing of metal 

inputs in-line with an emphasis from consumers 

on responsible sourcing and supply chain integrity,” 

Frappell explains. 

“ABC Refinery has partnered with software company 

Blockhead Technologies to create a technology 

platform that enables precious metal traceability 

and tampering detection called PROVCHECK 

Security Bar Technology. 

“[The program] utilises the unique fingerprint of 

precious metal products to record the environmental 

supply chain credentials of specific items of bullion 

produced by ABC Refinery which can be verified 

by consumers utilising a free to download iOS or 

Android mobile application.” 

Dropping costs 

The rise of 3D printing has brought about dramatic 

change to the casting and refining industry. 

These advances are on display at Chemgold where 

gold, silver, palladium, and platinum alloys are cast 

five days a week. 

Chemgold’s staff of precious metal specialists 

and engineers use advanced technology to achieve 

products of the highest quality. 

Chemgold director Darren Sher explains that the 

business guarantees the smoothest surface finish 

possible on 3D printers and ensures jewellers that 

designs will be printed and cast in up to two working 

days for standard-size designs from the time a CAD 

file is received. 

"In fairly simple terms with respect to CAD/CAM; 

customers have a choice of either ‘printed’ wax or 

‘grown’ resin," he tells Jeweller. 

"Printed wax has less support sprues but not as 

smooth as resin. Resin has more support sprues 

but is smoother. The support sprues are needed to 

grow the piece. Some designs require more support 

than others. 

"When suitable the Chemgold team aims to provide 

resin, but in some instances, it may not be the best 

solution if the type of design requires more support 

than usual. 

"These are important points which we are looking 

to provide further education to clients to achieve 

the best result for casting custom designs from 

CAD/CAM." 

It’s a level of a turnaround in manufacturing that 

jewellers could once only dream of. 

Over the past decade, the costs associated with 3D 

printing have plummeted, dramatically widening 

the field of contributors to the trade and as a result, 

opening the door to further innovation. 

In 2014, the average price of a consumer-grade 

3D printer was approximately $US1000. Within two 

years that price had dropped to just $US400. 

At the same time, the average price of an industrial 

3D printer dropped from $US25,000 in 2015, to 

between $US10,000 and $US5,000 today. 

Today, experts say, the potential is far broader than 

a relative handful of niche products. 

The 3D printing market is expected to triple 

to nearly $US45 billion worldwide by 2026, 

according to a report by Hubs, a marketplace for 

manufacturing services. 

Based in Adelaide, BECKS is one Australian-owned 

company hoping to play a role in the continued rise 

of the casting industry in the years to come. 

A leading precious metals company, 2022 has been 

a year of dramatic change for the organisation, 

undergoing a name change (formerly the Peter W 

Beck Company) under a new leadership team led 

by managing director Greville Ingham. 

BECKS offered a rapid wax printing and casting 

service capable of completing production runs of 

dramatically varying volume – one model or 1000, 

it’s achievable. 

“Strategically we felt that we really needed to show 

the industry that we’re still going to be around and 

that the business will be moving forward,” Ingham 

told Jeweller. 

“We underwent a rebrand which was a great way to 

get the word out right across the jewellery industry 

in Australia and say that we’re not going anywhere. 

“We want to be viewed as a progressive player in the 

industry with a lot of renewed vigour. 

“It’s something very important in this industry, things 

can change very quickly and you need to constantly 

demonstrate that you’re contemporary. 

“Thankfully, we’ve got a lot of young and enthustiastic 

faces working right across the many facets of our 

business that will keep us in touch with the cutting 

edge.” 

NEW ZEALAND 

AUSTRALIA 

0800 500 654 

1800 469 088

QUOTES FROM THE 

E XPERTS 

Technology 

Talking Heads 

SKY IS THE LIMIT | Casting & Refining 

Who dares wins 

Take Pure Casting as an example – based in Sydney the 

business casts daily, offering a wide range of different 

metals including gold, silver, platinum, brass and bronze. 

They also cast a wide range of base metals. 

Pure Casting operates under a simple logo which 

encapsulates much of the local casting and refining 

scene – “if the flask fits, we can probably cast it!” 

It’s the type of attitude which has epitomised the 7000-year 

long relationship humans have had with the casting and 

refining process. 

Antropologists believe casting processes date back to as 

far as 3200BC – with the oldest known example being a 

copper frog, created using casting techniques, discovered 

in present-day Iraq believed to have originated from 

Mesopotamia. Just as casting practices have evolved 

over time, so have the companies that perform them. 

From humble beginning nearly 100 years ago, Morris and 

Watson has expanded its operations to three countries – 

Australia, New Zealand and Thailand - while remaining 

a family-run business. 

Morris and Watson offers precious metal refining, gold 

and silver bullion services and has decades of experience 

working with casting technology – including state of the 

art 3D wax printers. 

Darren Sher 

Chemgold 

"Printed wax has less support 

sprues but not as smooth as 

resin. Resin has more support 

sprues but is smoother. 

The support sprues are 

needed to grow the piece. 

Some designs require more 

support than others. 

Jörg Bromberger 

McKinsey & Company 

“Despite the limitations, 

some industrial users have 

made significant progress 

in direct production using 

additive manufacturing, 

developing knowledge and 

capabilities along the way that 

will serve them well as the 

industry evolves. 

Despite there being a number of hurdles still to be leapt, 

Bromberger says success in the casting business in the 

future will simply be a matter of ‘who dares, wins’. 

“Ambitious manufacturers need not wait for the additive 

manufacturing industry to do all the work,” he explains. 

“Despite the limitations, some industrial users have made 

significant progress in direct production using additive 

manufacturing, developing knowledge and capabilities along 

the way that will serve them well as the industry evolves. 

“An organisation with additive manufacturing capabilities can 

also start to rethink its business model and identify additional 

sources of competitive advantage. 

“Can it apply additive manufacturing technologies to enable 

the late-stage customization of products, for example, or create 

limited-run series for certain user groups? Could it use additive 

manufacturing as a bridge between prototypes and full-scale 

production, allowing new products to be beta tested by a select 

group of customers?” 

While casting and refining practices will always be limited 

by the laws of physics and intangibles such as the 

availability of materials, the use of human imagination 

associated with the practice – particularly when it comes 

to the creation of products such as jewellery, that are so 

intricately connected to powerful emotions – will continue 

to drive innovation long into the future. 

Your 

CAD/CAM 

CAST 

Specialist 

Experience exceptional quality & service 

• Casting All Alloys Daily 

• Waxes, Moulds & Mounts 

• Design, 3D Printing & Finishing 

Sydney: Unit 37, 34-36 Ralph St, Alexandria 2015 

Melbourne: 1406/227 Collins St, Melbourne 3000 

1300 984 751 | sales@chemgold.com | www.chemgold.com 

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BUSINESS 

Strategy 

Secrets of business leadership revealed 

Successful businesses are often driven by innovative leaders. 

PAUL KEIJZER examines the crucial characteristics which define these leaders. 

There have been endless articles 

and books written on innovation and 

leadership. 

Many authors, including myself, have 

extensively discussed the mix of different 

leadership styles used to create better 

businesses and better organisations. 

There’s no debate left to be had on the 

importance of leadership within any 

small business operation, including retail 

operations. Instead, I prefer to approach 

the topic from a different angle. 

It’s important to not only understand what 

makes a successful leader – but also 

which behaviours define a poor leader. 

There’s value to be had in studying the 

legacy habits that so many leaders, 

especially those in Asia and other frontier 

markets, have a difficult time abandoning. 

Autocratic leadership 

One change we’ll see in leadership 

studies in the next 10-20 years is the 

elimination, or at least minimisation, 

of autocratic leadership from business 

books and studies. 

When you consider how the business 

world works today, having one person 

dictating how to complete a project or 

task simply won’t work. Of course, there 

are rare examples where a specific set of 

responsibilities or skills will challenge this 

principle, but for the average business – 

including jewellery stores – this is true. 

As an owner or manager, you must have 

faith in your staff and foster a culture of 

upward communication to be a modernday 

leader. 

Laidback attitudes 

Some experts advise that business 

owners attribute considerable focus to 

developing a relaxed workplace culture. 

We all know that truly driven employees 

thrive when they are pushed (within 

reason) to do their best. 

I recently consulted for one business 

where staff members can be observed 

working with intense energy at 8AM. 

It was a stark contrast to the many offices 

I’ve seen in the past, half empty 

in the morning and full of employees 

still slowly waking up. 

My experience has taught me that a lazy 

office environment will lead to lazy staff 

members and as a result, lousy results. 

Business owners and managers should 

push people to reach their maximum 

potential in whatever role or responsibility 

It’s important 

to not only 

understand 

what makes 

a successful 

leader – but 

also which 

behaviours 

define a poor 

leader. 

they occupy. One day, they’ll thank you for it. 

Following the industry 

You know that place called your comfort 

zone? Get out of it! 

Abandoning your comfort zone is the only 

way you’ll make waves. It’s far too easy 

to just follow where the industry is going. 

“It’s safe, and if everyone’s doing it, it 

must be the right way to go.” That’s the 

motto of so many struggling businesses. 

In reality, it’s a practice that prompts 

the question we offer children - “if 

everyone jumped off a bridge, would 

you jump too?”. 

Looking to help your business escape 

the comfort zone, but unsure of where 

to begin? I recommend the book Blue 

Ocean Strategy, by Renee Mauborgne 

and W. Chan Kim. 

Written in 2005, it’s a powerful book 

dedicated to directing businesses to 

create and control untapped market 

space thus making the competition 

irrelevant. It’s a best-selling book 

due to the powerful and logical advice. 

Don’t follow other businesses, pave 

your own path and take customers 

to places they only dreamed of. 


Business Strategy 

Be viewed as a leader 

By definition, innovative leadership 

requires constant work. Once you’ve 

implemented the tips above and 

eliminated archaic and ineffective 

business practices, it’s time to develop 

the attributes strong leaders possess. 

You may intrinsically have leadership 

qualities, however, they don’t mean much 

if people don’t perceive you as a leader. 

Also, let’s face it – actions speak louder 

than any trait a leader may have. 

So today, I’ve put together a few crucial 

characteristics which define business 

leadership. 

Don’t stay quiet 

Voice your thoughts and ideas! 

One of the most common mistakes 

emerging business leaders make is 

staying quiet rather than speaking their 

mind. People often do this because 

they’re afraid of being perceived as a 

know-it-all. It’s especially common, in 

my experience, when the workforce of 

an organisation is primarily Generation 

X and earlier. 

Instead of staying quiet, speaking up 

when you have something to contribute 

will show your peers that you’re engaged 

and, depending on the quality of the idea, 

smart. Someone who has ideas that can 

improve the way things are done. 

Leaders know that they have to be 

the problem-solver and that they must 

discover solutions outside the box. 

And that can only be achieved by 

talking about your ideas. 

Stand out 

People tend to get quickly intimidated by 

the success of others and because of this, 

new hires often keep a low profile until 

they’re better known. 

However, by being confident in your 

success you not only break down barriers 

created by others, you also end up 

offering the ‘winning’ perspective that the 

organisation needs. 

Even though it may cause difficulties for 

you in the beginning, the rewards will be 

worth the effort. 

Escape your comfort zone 

Successful leaders will network whenever 

they get the opportunity, and more 

importantly, they avoid the trap of spending 

all their time within their inner circle. 

Most people naturally gravitate towards 

spending time with people in their inner 

circle, ultimately staying away from those 

who are outside their comfort zone. It’s 

only natural. 

However, it’s the latter group that needs to 

have their perceptions changed about you. 

To be seen as a strong leader, you need 

to spend time with those less familiar 

or confident with you, to showcase your 

leadership capabilities. 

Networking, especially with those who need 

to be convinced that you’re a good leader, 

is not an easy task. There are many out 

there who would argue that a good leader 

shouldn’t have to convince anyone. 

However, I believe that as a great leader 

you absolutely need to have the ability to 

attract people to your side. 

Hone your interpersonal skills 

Strong leaders in the modern workforce 

don’t rely on preformed opinions when 

dealing with staff members or customers. 

Workplace diversity is a major business 

trend, however, filling your organisation 

with people of different backgrounds and 

FOUR 

TRAITS OF 

A BUSINESS 

LEADER 

Speak up 

Voice your 

thoughts and 

opinions. 

Stand out 

Don’t be afraid to 

stand out, even 

if it intimidates 

others. 

Brave new 

waters 

Network outside 

your comfort 

zone. 

Inclusivity 

Embrace the 

unique traits 

of all your 

employees to 

help them thrive. 

identities isn’t the shortcut to success. 

To be seen as an authentically inclusive 

leader, develop an understanding of 

different kinds of personal biases, such 

as implicit stereotypes, groupthink, and 

confirmation bias. Instead of carrying 

preconceived and stereotypical responses, 

when you interact with someone listen to 

what it is they’re saying. 

Weak leaders judge others based on 

superficial characteristics. Gain more 

exposure to different backgrounds, so 

you can make others feel included by 

acknowledging your understanding of 

their needs and beliefs. 

In turn, they’ll be free to repay your 

efforts by being a productive and fulfilled 

member of your business. 

Take action 

Armed with three common pitfalls to 

avoid and four easily adopted techniques 

for business owners and managers, 

there’s little excuse left – it’s time to begin 

your journey towards leadership! 

According to the latest research from 

McKinsey and Company, more than 70 per 

cent of business leaders surveyed said 

they were willing to fail multiple times in 

order to see a business succeed in the 

long term. 

The same f igure – 70 per cent – said they 

prefer timely action over perfection. So 

should you! Get started today and worry 

about being the perfect leader in the future. 

It’s far easier said than done but that’s 

what a being successful leader is all 

about! 

PAUL KEIJZER is the CEO and 

managing partner of Engage Consulting, 

supporting organisations grow their 

business. Visit: engageconsulting.biz 


BUSINESS 

Selling 

Cultivating a positive and productive sales team 

Many businesses still abide by sales principles of yesteryear, with aggressive employee chasing sales 

under immense internal stress. SUE BARRETT explores the benefits of a more empathetic sales culture. 

I want you to imagine a team of 10 

salespeople, each of whom has their own 

well-defined sales responsibilities. 

These ‘territories’ could be product-based 

or services-based, or perhaps defined 

by other terms, it doesn’t matter. Each 

member of the staff has sales targets. 

They have access to sales support and 

customer service. 

Every month this sales team, including 

sales support, meets virtually and 

occasionally in person, to workshop their 

plans. These meetings are used to look 

at what’s working and what’s not. These 

meetings are focused on moving forward 

and how to get better sales traction and 

deliver on results. It’s these monthly 

meetings where the magic happens, not 

just on the sales and deals front, but on the 

culture front. 

Each member of staff is united around a 

common purpose, with a clear and easy 

to understand business strategy which 

is broken down into these individual 

territories. They know what they are selling 

to whom and why. This sales team culture 

has something extra that everyone abides 

by – the principle of “leave no one behind”. 

In retail, we all face challenges from 

time-to-time – disinterested customers, 

struggles with closing sales, or perhaps 

personal circumstances are simply making 

it difficult to complete a busy schedule. 

If it emerges that a salesperson is facing 

challenges, all the other staff and sales 

support work with that member to help 

them recover and get through that rough 

patch. Whether it’s coaching, mentoring, 

taking over the reins for a bit, making 

calls on their behalf, everyone is vested 

in getting that individual and the team 

to deliver. Sounds like an ideal work 

environment, doesn’t it? 

Unhealthy culture 

By contrast, businesses that promote 

selling as a highly competitive, aggressive 

operation tend to run into surprising 

issues. 

Each member of staff is united around a common purpose, with a clear 

and easy to understand business strategy 

It’s easy to think of some business and 

salespeople cliches, popularised by films 

and television, which embody these kinds 

of work cultures. For example: 

• All the salespeople compete with each 

other for the ‘top spot’ and the least 

successful staff members by volume are 

culled. 

• Managers encourage a cut-throat, 

high-pressure, “take-no-prisoners” 

culture to drive their financial success. 

• Customers are seen as targets and 

attempts to close a sale is referred to as 

“going in for the kill”. 

• Customers are regarded as objects to 

be possessed or trophies to be placed 

in on a cabinet, shown off and admired 

like stuffed animals on a wall above a 

fireplace. 

If you’re the kind of manager who promotes 

any of the above behaviour, or is still taking 

inspiration from films such as Glengarry 

Glen Ross, then you’ve found the right 

article. There’s a growing body of research 

that suggests these dog-eat-dog cultures 

are extremely harmful to productivity, 

retention, and the wellbeing of staff. 

Unfortunately, this type of culture has been 

promoted, for too long, as the ideal sales 

team culture. 

The cost associated with these toxic, 

high-pressure cultures include: 

The collegiate, 

collaborative, 

and caring 

approach taken 

by businesses 

who value 

their staff and 

encourage 

people to 

build genuine 

relationships 

with customers 

will have the 

last laugh. 

• Blow out in health care expenditure 

due to workplace stress. Long term 

issues with stress lead to higher 

chances of cardiovascular disease and 

even death from heart attacks. 

• Employee disengagement including 

high absenteeism, more errors, lower 

productivity, lower profitability, lower job 

growth and lower sales performance. 

• A lack of loyalty from staff members, 

and by extension, customers who 

correctly perceive an unhealthy work 

environment and choose to spend their 

money elsewhere. 

The final point regarding loyalty was 

recently underlined by a report from 

the Harvard Business Review titled 

“Proof Positive Work Cultures Are More 

Productive.” 

“Although there’s an assumption that 

stress and pressure push employees to 

perform more, better, and faster, what 

cut-throat organisations fail to recognise 

is the hidden costs incurred,” the report 

reads. 

“This research on positive organisational 

psychology demonstrates that not only 

is a cut-throat environment harmful to 

productivity over time, but that a positive 

environment will lead to dramatic 

benefits for employers, employees, and 

the bottom line.” 

Encouragement 

The example shared at the beginning of 

this article doesn’t need to be a fantasy – it 

can become your reality. 

The collegiate, collaborative, and caring 

approach taken by businesses who value 

their staff and encourage people to build 

genuine relationships with customers will 

have the last laugh. 

SUE BARRETT is founder and CEO of 

innovative and forward-thinking sales 

advisory and education firm Barrett. 

Learn more: barett.com.au 


BUSINESS 

Management 

Planning a business reset 

Resetting seems to have become the buzzword of choice in the past two years. 

DAVID BROWN explains how to perform a successful internal review of a business. 

Everything from COVID-19 to the economy 

is spoken about as the opportunity to flick 

the switch at the wall and boot things 

back up again. 

Whether it’s in your personal life or 

business life, recent times may have 

caused you to rethink your priorities. 

The purpose of this column is not to focus 

on your personal priorities but those of 

your business. 

Are you focussing your business life in an 

area that will provide you with what you 

want – both in terms of satisfaction and 

financial rewards? 

If not, then in which areas do you need 

to clean the hard drive and relaunch the 

applications? 

As I often point out to jewellers, many 

business practices grow haphazardly and 

without planning and it pays to re-evaluate 

whether they are achieving what is 

intended or if they are even needed at all. 

Here are few things for you to consider 

when undertaking a review. 

Who are your preferred customers? 

This question differs from ‘who are your 

customers’ as it doesn’t assume you are 

currently attracting the customers you 

want – with no disrespect to your existing 

customer base. 

Who are you aiming to attract? What is the 

demographic and profile of your typical 

customer? The more clearly you can see 

your ideal customer the more likely you are 

to attract them. 

The more carefully defined your target 

market the more likely they will hear what 

you have to say. Consumers are inundated 

with thousands of messages every day 

from hundreds of business entities. 

If you’re not speaking specifically to your 

ideal customer and their current needs, 

you will be drowned out by those who do. 

Where are your opportunities? 

What are the best opportunities for your 

Are you focusing your business life in an area that will provide you with 

what you want – both in terms of satisfaction and financial rewards? 

business in the future? Is it where you are 

currently concentrated? Are there new 

opportunities in your region or market 

in which you can take advantage? Who 

could you be working with to expand your 

business? 

Many other businesses already have 

the customers you may want to appeal 

to. Before newlyweds buy their wedding 

rings, they have probably booked their 

photographer. 

What can you do to build a relationship and 

a win/win with that photographer? In what 

similar situations can you develop your 

relationships? 

Who is your competition? 

Competitive threats don’t just come only 

from your jewellery competition locally, 

in fact increasingly they may be coming 

from other businesses who don’t even 

operate in your country. Increasingly 

jewellers face competition, not only from 

other jewellers and even other retailers 

but also from the online world and the 

‘experiences’ industry. 

Anyone else who is taking dollars from 

your clientele is a threat to you. 

Social media has seen huge growth in 

people wanting to show what they have 

done, as much as what they have got. 

The travel industry, restaurants and 

other activities have suffered greatly in 

Who are 

you aiming 

to attract? 

What is the 

demographic 

and profile of 

your typical 

customer? The 

more clearly 

you can see 

your ideal 

customer the 

more likely you 

are to attract 

them. 

recent times and many jewellers have 

benefitted from their loss. 

However, this situation won’t continue 

indefinitely and you need to prepare for 

a resumption of normal activity if they 

haven’t happened already. 

What processes need improving? 

Are your systems current for what the 

business needs or did they come about 

by chance? When did you last review 

them? What processes need to be 

improved or eliminated altogether? 

What are the current threats to your 

livelihood? 

I recently heard of a successful retail 

business on the edge of a town that 

had a busy road passing in front of 

their store. 

The authorities decided to replace the 

road with a motorway that took two 

years to build, and the business was 

ruined practically overnight. 

Not all problems can be foreseen but 

where we are aware of threats, we need 

to be proactive about how we will deal 

with them. 

What staff do you need? 

Much like your systems your staffing 

requirements can grow of their own accord 

too. Not only do you need to consider the 

number of staff but the skills they require. 

The roles you require filled don’t always 

match your current staff and the skills 

that they have. 

It’s important to review staffing 

requirements and the performance of the 

keys players you have in each role. 

If you want to increase diamond sales and 

you don’t have the staff with the skills to do 

this, you will be facing issues. 

DAVID BROWN is co-founder 

and business mentor with Retail 

Edge Consultants. Learn more: 

retailedgeconsultants.com 


BUSINESS 

Marketing & PR 

Three digital marketing tactics 

you must have in your arsenal 

The digital marketplace is increasingly crowded for retailers. 

THOMAS YOUNG explores methods to help your business stand out. 

Unless you have been stranded on a 

deserted island, you know the past two 

years have seen tremendous rise in 

internet usage and digital marketing. 

Businesses have embraced content 

marketing, SEO, Google Ads, social media 

and basic email marketing. Others have 

worked to improve their websites and 

proactively drive more online traffic to their 

brand. As a result, the digital landscape is 

now more cluttered and noisy than ever. 

What can your business do to get ahead of 

the curve and rise above the noise? 

Influencer marketing 

This year has been defined by influencer 

marketing and companies of all sizes have 

embraced the practice. 

What’s an influencer? An influencer 

is anyone who can raise consumer 

awareness of your products and services 

or directly refer qualified prospects to your 

business. Influencers can take many forms 

including popular websites, social media 

content writers, industry experts, writers, 

and more. 

One of the more defining traits of an 

influencer is possession of a large 

database of followers on social media. 

Influncers can leverage these followers on 

behalf of a business by highlighting the use 

of a product on their social media. 

Influencer marketing rose to prominence 

during the pandemic and can be especially 

effective in B2B markets and in highly 

specialised areas where the voice of an 

influencer may carry significant weight. 

The bottom line is this – influencers are a 

ready-made shortcut to put your brand or 

product in front of an audience. 

Email marketing and CRM integration 

Email marketing and customer 

relationship management (CRM) are two 

concepts which pair together exceptionally 

well. 

Businesses must find ways to integrate and 

align their sales staff with their marketing 

programs in order to gain a competitive 

People are researching your products and services and the pages they 

land on must meet those researching needs. 

advantage and provoke improved sales 

results. 

Unfortunately, sales and marketing often 

have an adversarial relationship within 

many businesses, usually competing 

for resources. Aligning sales staff and 

marketing programs around a common 

set of goals is critical to preventing this 

conflict. 

There are excellent tools that handle this 

integration well. HubSpot is one of the best 

tools to track and report on movement 

through a sales and marketing funnel. It's 

one of many excellent resources for sales 

and marketing teams to coordinate their 

efforts in managing funnel movement. 

Conversion analysis 

The time has come to go deep into digital 

conversions and the factors that move 

people through your sales funnel to a 

closed sale. There are three key tactics 

to focus on in this pursuit of maximising 

conversion rates - content, customised 

landing pages, and call-to-actions. 

• Content: In 2022, take your content 

beyond blogs and social media posts and 

dive into the story of your target market. 

Who is the hero at the center of the 

content you write and put online? In many 

cases, the hero of your content is your 

own business and this must change! The 

hero must be your prospective customer. 

The core of this content must be the key 

There are three 

key tactics to 

focus on in 

this pursuit of 

maximising 

conversion 

rates - content, 

customised 

landing pages, 

and call-toactions. 

benefits of buying from your company and 

the problems you solve. 

• Customised landing pages: The key to 

conversions is still excellent landing pages. 

Those pages must relate to the intent of 

the person visiting the page. 

You will see stronger conversion rates 

when you use customised landing pages 

for the targeted visitors coming to your 

website. People are researching your 

products and services and the pages they 

land on must meet those researching 

needs or they don’t move through the 

buying process. 

• Call-To-Actions (CTAs): Make 2023 the 

year of excellent mid-funnel CTAs. 

Go deeper into website user engagement 

with Google Analytics and set up heat 

mapping to see how people interact with 

your web pages. Review the traffic on your 

website and the key landing to determine 

if user intent is being met or if the current 

landings are too generic to engage visitors. 

Develop more effective and engaging CTAs 

to help people research and decide if they 

want to buy from your business. 

Good luck! 

A highly competitive digital marketing 

landscape has its upside and downside 

for all businesses. The downside is the 

competitive and crowded marketplace and 

the improved chances of your business 

getting lost in the excitement. 

The upside is the chance your business is 

discovered in the flood of people looking 

for the solutions you provide. 

In order to boost your chances of being 

discovered, it's crucial your business 

stays on top of the latest and greatest 

developments in digital marketing. 

THOMAS YOUNG is CEO of Intuitive 

Websites. He has more than 25 years’ 

marketing and sales experience. 

Visit: intuitivewebsites.com 


BUSINESS 

Logged On 

Can QR codes increase your 

sales and business results? 

The pandemic has popularised the use of QR codes. BRIDGET BROWN has observed their 

widespread adoption by marketers and believes they have a role to play for jewellery retailers too. 

As if to signify the ‘coming of age’ for 

QR codes, more than 20 million people 

scanned a code in an advertisement 

during the NFL Superbowl. 

This Superbowl ad for the crypto app 

Coinbase brought newfound attention 

to QR codes and is, perhaps, the latest 

example of QR codes being successfully 

used in consumer marketing. 

Based on their use, there’s about a 50 per 

cent chance that you’ve scanned a QR code 

in the past month. Of course, QR codes 

rose to prominence in Australia when the 

people were forced to use them during the 

COVID pandemic. 

These little black squares were invented in 

1994 in Japan to track parts in automotive 

manufacturing. 

Now they join face masks, Zoom, Slack and 

so many other ideas on the list of things 

that existed before the pandemic but are 

now entrenched in our everyday life in a 

way not seen only two years ago. 

Don’t call it a comeback 

Marketers tried to introduce and 

popularise QR codes with consumers more 

than a decade ago, beginning around 2010. 

I recall seeing companies trying to use 

them to share information with journalists, 

with little success. 

At the time, I wrote them off as a fad, a 

barrier to communication rather than an 

enhancer. However, I suspected everything 

was going to change for QR codes in 

2017 when Apple’s iPhone camera could 

read QR codes without an additional app. 

Experts as far back as 2013 said that 

QR codes would remain a gimmick until 

smartphones could automatically read 

them. How right they were! 

Before this time, people needed to 

download an extra app to scan a QR code 

and it could take seemingly forever to load 

a tiny, hard-to-read website. 

By 2017, most people had quality mobile 

internet service, and many companies had 

built mobile-responsive websites. 

Consider putting a QR code on your business card that allows people to 

add your information to their contacts. 

At that time, I brainstormed ways my 

clients might use QR codes to generate 

leads. I soon shelved the idea when I 

realised a gap in the process. Most people 

still didn’t know their camera phone could 

read QR codes, making the audience 

education aspect of the tool onerous. 

Pandemic change 

In 2022, consumer QR codes aren’t 

making a comeback so much as they’re 

undergoing a renaissance, and it’s because 

of the pandemic. 

We had to learn to communicate in the 

time of COVID and QR codes were a great 

way to do exactly that, without the physical 

contact. This is the environment marketers 

have been waiting for. 

QR codes are increasingly on product 

packaging, linking to lists of ingredients. 

They’re on movie posters linking to the 

trailer. They’re in carparks, showing you 

where you’ve left your vehicle. 

Since the technology is so easy and 

inexpensive to adopt, it’s time for you to 

consider how you might use it for your own 

marketing. 

Embrace QR codes 

Consider putting a QR code on your 

business card that allows people to add 

your information to their contacts. You 

could also use a code on the signup page of 

your newsletter to serve a similar function. 

Run print ads 

with QR codes 

in multiple 

locations you’re 

interested in 

targeting. You’ll 

be able to see 

where your 

audience is the 

most engaged. 

Retailers might place a QR code on a 

poster for their business that sends 

people directly to your website. Consider 

connecting the use of the code to a 

promotion or sale. 

Place a QR code on the side of a work 

vehicle so people can easily save your 

contact information. 

They could also be placed on your store 

signage with your opening hours or a link 

to your website. 

I’ve seen QR codes placed on receipts 

or invoices to make it easier to purchase 

from a retailer again. They can be used on 

a jewellers website to create a seamless 

handoff from your customer’s desktop 

experience to their mobile experience. 

For example, a potential customer could 

scan a code that calls your business phone 

number, connects them to your social 

media channels, or send directions to your 

bricks-and-mortar location. 

You could run print ads with QR codes 

in multiple locations you’re interested in 

targeting. You’ll be able to see where your 

audience is the most engaged. Connect 

your Google review link to a QR code, so it’s 

easier for people to give you reviews. 

Don’t miss out 

Before you jump into the world of QR codes, 

take the time to read about the difference 

between dynamic and static codes. 

Also, keep in mind that as they continue to 

become more popular with consumers, so 

will the scams that use QR codes. 

So if you use one, make sure you promote 

feelings of safety with your audience. Make 

it clear what will happen when they scan 

your QR code so that the more risk-averse 

users feel comfortable using yours. 

BRIDGET BROWN is founder of 

Create That Copy & Marketing, a 

Canadian marketing firm focused on 

generating leads and increasing sales 

and revenue for small businesses. Visit: 

createthatcopy.com 


My Bench 

Jo Makohin 

Simon West Fine Jewellery. Melbourne VIC 

Age 42 • Years in Trade 24 • Training Apprenticeship at NMIT. • First job Waitress. 

SIGNATURE PIECE 

PLATINUM RING 

Handmade platinum ring featuring an old cut centre 

diamond and Cadillac cut side stones. It was an 

engagement ring to be given to a fellow jeweller and it 

was a little daunting to make something beautiful and 

timeless for another talented jeweller. 

4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Diamonds for their durability, 

nothing else has that same sparkle. 

4FAVOURITE METAL Platinum. You have to put that little 

extra bit of work into it, but the payoff is well worth it. 

4FAVOURITE TOOL All of them! But a saw frame, as 

simple as it is, can make very intricate filigree work. 

4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY Microscrope. 

4BEST PART OF THE JOB The idea that I am creating 

something that will hopefully become a family heirloom 

and can live on well beyond my lifetime. 

4WORST PART OF THE JOB When a ring made many 

years earlier comes back into the workshop for a check 

and clean, and the ring has been trashed. 

4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER My foreman when I was 

an apprentice would tell me “It can't win, it's only metal. 

4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Have patience and always 

put in that extra minute to properly finish a job. 

4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH 

Deteriorating eyesight and Repetitive Strain Injury (RSI) 

in my wrists. 

4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE Looking at a job and 

working out how to make it. I enjoy the challenge 

of making something new and different. I love the 

conceptual struggle of lifting the idea off a page and 

making it better. There’s always more to learn. 


OPINION 

Soapbox 

Standing the test of time 

Events such as the International Jewellery Fair provide crucial opportunities 

for emerging businesses. SAM DER BEDROSSIAN AM shares the keys to success. 

I have been attending trade fairs all around 

the world for many years. 

I've attended every Baselworld - with the 

exception of the 1973 fair - as that was the 

year my son Steve was born. 

And no matter where I am I hear people say, 

“I don’t need the Fair, my business is doing 

fine on its own.” 

My perspective on this is very different. 

These days, and at 81 years of age, one of 

my most important responsibilities is to 

attend the International Jewellery Fair and 

to enjoy myself. 

It’s a pleasure to attend the Sydney Fair, 

each and every year, as it presents an 

opportunity to see my old customers, and 

most importantly, to know that they are 

healthy and well. 

In many cases, it’s no longer appropriate 

to simply call these people friends. When 

you’ve worked with someone for 30, 35 

or 40 years, they’re more like family. 

An event like the Sydney trade show gives 

you the chance to see the latest products, to 

meet new people and most importantly, to 

listen to what they have to say. 

If you’re paying attention, you can gain an 

understanding of the trends of the day, 

and by walking around the Fair, you see 

how people react to each watch, ring, and 

necklace they see. 

As an exhibitor, you should be asking 

yourself questions. What do these visitors 

like? What’s holding their attention? What 

don’t they like? 

I am an Armenian man who was born in 

Egypt and moved to Australia in 1964. 

Within three years, I established my 

own business, which was uncommon 

for people to do when moving to a new 

country, and so of course, on the day that 

I went into business for myself – as Sams 

Watchmaker Jeweller – I was proud. 

One year later and I was married to my 

wife, Alice, and over the next 40 years we 

worked together to grow the business. 

I would assemble thousands of watches 

when I first started and this is something 

I cannot forget. I also recall attending my 

first jewellery fair – it was in a small hotel, 

nothing like what we see today at the 

International Convention Centre in Sydney. 

The first of these fairs took place 35 years 

ago. We attended that first Fair, and we 

haven’t missed one since. 

When you’re reflecting on the way things 

have changed since those early days of the 

Fair, you cannot overlook technology. 

Today, you look around, and of course 

everyone is using smartphones and 

computers. 

To think that 35 years ago I had every 

telephone number I could ever possibly need 

memorised in my mind. Today, I must say I 

know only one phone number – my own. 

Occasionally, I hear people disparaging the 

younger generation over this very topic. 

They say that they are too reliant on their 

devices and that they don’t know how to do 

business ‘the right way’. In my opinion, there 

is a different way to look at this matter. 

Every 

generation has 

its own ideas 

– the people of 

today must do 

what they can 

to learn from 

the past while 

bringing their 

own unique 

approach to 

business. 

unique to the watch and jewellery industry. 

It’s possible to be a man of the past and 

at the same time, still live in the present 

moment and have a role to play in today. 

I’m very happy I've taken the time to learn 

all of the IT systems we use and to ensure 

that I haven’t lost touch with the trade and 

the business. 

Most importantly, I haven’t become 

someone who always talks about ‘the old 

days’. 

My children and grandchildren are always 

happy to help me learn these new things 

and in turn, I try to teach them the things 

that I have learned. 

That’s the way it is meant to be. Every 

generation has its own ideas – the people 

of today must do what they can to learn 

from the past while bringing their own 

unique approach to business. 

The future 

In 1991, Alice and I welcomed our son Steve 

into the family business. 

Steve is very careful in everything he does. 

He expanded the family business into the 

wider world of fine jewellery and diamonds, 

bringing his own innovation to the business 

I started with my wife all those years ago. 

I have always enjoyed working with him. 

He has brought to the industry everything I 

mentioned above. 

Most importantly, in the 30 years we have 

worked together, we have never had one 

argument – because I am a great boss! 

C 

M 

Y 

CM 

MY 

CY 

CMY 

K 

Changes 

I don’t know if many people involved in the 

jewellery industry today understand just how 

different things are compared to the way 

they once were. 

I know that I am a person of the past. 

In my 55 years in the industry, I have seen 

two generations come and go, and now, 

we are welcoming a third. The way I see 

it, young people bring something new and 

Name: Sam Der Bedrossian AM 

Business: Classique Watches / 

Sams Group 

Position: Founder 

Location: Sydney, NSW 

Years in the industry: 55 


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Jeweller - September 2022

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