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where actions speak louder than words
where actions speak louder than words
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est in peace... "that's not gonna happen"
Phil was up for anything that involved the water
Phil Wilkins
(1948 - 2022)
Phil was always up for an adventure
I have looked back over the last two years of my editorials, and apart from one or two,
there is an ongoing common theme. It is obviously, something we all need to be aware of
but do these editorials have an effect? Maybe not, but that does not delete the endeavor.
To be concise and to summarize the majority of the last two years’ editorial is to say that
our only non-renewable asset is time and the overpowering need to use it wisely and
effectively. To continue with the cliché, no one ever lay on their deathbed wishing they
had spent more time at work. We do not get to choose the hand we are dealt in terms of
health; sure, we can improve our chances, but we do not really get a choice. However,
the choice you do get is to use the time you are given the best way you can.
Phil and wife Sue shared a love of skiing, then later
took up snowboarding!
Last week a close friend and mentor of mine died. Phil Wilkins, he was kind and
generous and intelligent. But he was also active; he surfed, he dived, he biked, he skied,
he windsurfed, he paddle-boarded. if there was a moment in the day, he filled it with
action. But these activities he did not do alone he involved friends and family he was both
the captain and the cheerleader.
Then his life was cut short by Parkinson’s disease. As tragic as that is, and it is hugely
tragic, Phil could look back on his life and say without a doubt that he could not have
squeezed one more moment in; his life was full and well lived, and he filled his cup to the
brim and then let it overflow.
I will miss the ongoing example of how to live a life, but it installed in me from an early
age the need to ‘seize the day’, and his example continues in that you really don’t know
how many days you are allotted.
When someone passes, people say, ‘rest in peace,’ if there is a sequel to this life, then I
am sure Phil is certainly not resting in peace, but he’ll be there squeezing as much as he
can out of each and every day.
Thanks for the lifelong example.
Steve Dickinson - Editor
Mountain biking was another of Phil's loves
your Adventure starts with Us
23 Locations Nationwide | www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz

page 6
contents
Image by Marcelo Maragni / Red Bull Content Pool Image by Richard Rossiter
Image by Derek Cheng
page 14
page 22
6//Alpine climbing in a warming climate
by Derek Cheng
14//Getting high on the old ghost road
By Eric Skilling
22//Sky Grind
with Leticia Bufoni
26//A stunning welcome back to the West
Coast
Karekare Whatipu Loop
30//Crankworx Rotorua
The final stop of the World Tour
36//Ruapehu's greatest hits
• 5 fantastic day hikes
46//Three go wild in Taranaki
By Lynne Dickinson
74//Adventure Travel
• Samoa
• Rarotonga
• Vanuatu
• Tahiti
plus
54. gear guides
91. active adventure
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Image by Steve Dickinson
page 84
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we ARE climbing
John Palmer at Sunnyside, Wanaka
Photo: Tom Hoyle
For over thirty years Bivouac Outdoor has been proudly 100% New Zealand owned and committed to providing
you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. It is the same gear we literally stake our
lives on, because we are committed to adventure and we ARE climbing.
Supporting Aotearoa's Backcountry Heritage
STORES NATIONWIDE
www.bivouac.co.nz

BEHIND THE COVER...
Climber Giuliano Cameroni Image by Stefan Kürzi; From the Red Bull content pool, illume Quest Entry
The Red Bull Illume competition
brings together the best athletes and
photographers in the world. The results
are often stunning, capturing a moment,
a feeling, or visually telling a narrative.
Giuliano Cameroni is an astounding
climber with a unique way of looking at
both the rock he climbs and the nature
that surrounds it . Stefan Kürzi has
managed to capture that moment with this
exceptional image.
Giuliano Cameroni sees rocks differently
to most people. To him, a boulder of
granite is a playground, a puzzle. It's a
work of art. The Swiss climber used to
follow the ways of most other climbers by
working heavily in the gym to build up the
muscle to tackle the toughest boulders
both at home and abroad. However, an
encounter with another climber, Charles
Albert, a couple of years ago transformed
his outlook on how he approaches every
climb. Go climbing, not to the gym!
"I knew this connection with the rock was
very important, but everyone goes to the
gym and trains, so I thought I had to do
it also," he recalled. "I started doing it
when I was young and the results were
never great. I'd never make that big step
forward. He was like, 'Dude, training is
s***. Just go on the rock and just try really
hard'. I lived with him for two months and I
tried it because I was curious."
His new-found philosophy has seen a
rapid progression in his career. He likes to
meditate to help prepare body and mind
and, even when not climbing, he enjoys
being at one with nature in the search for
his next potential conquest.
"I really love the energy of the forest,"
he said. "It gives me tremendous energy
being outside. The world is so perfect,
nature is perfect. I really see the beauty of
it and the chance to be able to be there. I
spend as much time there as possible."
"Out there in nature, I'm trying to figure
out the rock and what it offers – the close
connection to the rock," he said. "Others
only go to the gym and train, and have
much more power than me, but still
can't do the rocks as they don't feel that
connection... "
“Northern Rocks is an indoor
bouldering facility, we foster
community, growth and
positive experiences
for people of all
backgrounds, ages
and abilities.”
World Class Indoor Climbing
First visit $25* then free for a week!
Fantastic community, beginners
welcome, boulder classes for all ages
and abilities, inquire now.
* Discounts for youths and own gear
Student Mondays, entry $15
www.northernrocks.co.nz
@northernrocks.climbing
Unit 17, 101-111 Diana Drive,
Wairau Valley, Auckland | 09 278 2363

BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA

Alpine
climbing
in a
warming
climate:
The times,
they're
not for
wasting
Words and photos by Derek Cheng
It sounded like an earthquake, but the ground below
us was still. As if in slow motion, an increasingly
thunderous noise drifted in from the other side of
the valley, where blooming dust clouds signalled a
rockfall of gargantuan proportions.
6//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

A climber stuffs his hand into a crack on the Sala Athee route, on Aiguille du Moine in the European Alps

Our bivvy site, under Envers des Aiguille, where constant rockfall disturbed our sleep.
"This is always a disconcerting sight for
a climber. It was especially alarming
because we watched the debris peter
down towards a gully where we’d been
planning to venture in the coming days."
This is always a disconcerting sight for a climber. It was
especially alarming because we watched the debris peter down
towards a gully where we’d been planning to venture in the
coming days. The gully was the access to 375m-long alpine
climb called Sala Athee, on the peak known as The Monk, which
was recommended to us because of its technical crack climbing.
We were sitting in an idyllic bivvy spot below the granite needles
of Envers des Aiguilles, near Chamonix, in the heart of the
European Alps. The rockfall wasn’t anywhere near us, but
witnessing such a large one always focuses the mind on what
might fall down at any moment.
All through the night, the unnerving sound of collapsing rocks
echoed around us. If I happened to be awake, there was little to
do but hide in my sleeping bag and hope we weren’t in the direct
path of anything.
The following day, as we scaled the jagged corners and
technical slabs of a 650m-high climb called Banana Republic,
we remained on constant alert to the possibility of rockfall,
which, thankfully, never eventuated.
We had chosen the climb because it had less objective danger
than other routes in the Mont Blanc massif. The European
summer had been a sweltering affair, and many of the glaciers
in the alps were already opening up. In early July we had
crossed the Valle Blanche to climb the magnificent granite tower,
Grand Capucin, and were later told that a guide and his client
had both fallen into a crevasse, breaking several bones, while
crossing the same glacier at around the same time as we had.
A week before that, a serac the size of two football fields
collapsed from the top of the Marmolada Glacier, in the Italian
Dolomites, killing 10 people. It’s still unclear how it happened,
but it wasn’t an area known to be dangerous, nor was it a
hanging glacier, where icefall would be expected. But rising
temperatures have made glaciers more unstable; leading up to
the accident, a weather station at 3250m on the Marmolada had
recorded 23 straight days of temperatures above 0 0 Celsius.
These are uncertain times, as rising temperatures change
the face of the mountains we love to play in. Over the last
century, temperatures in the European Alps have gone up by
2 degrees Celsius, twice the global average. Climate change
has contributed to glaciers shrinking by more than a third over
the last 18 years. And while scientists expect the Marmolada to
disappear altogether within 15 years, others predict all glaciers
in Europe below 3500m will have gone by 2050.
The same pattern has been observed in New Zealand, which in
general means the snowline is creeping higher while the volume
of ice shrinks. Studies from the National Institute of Water and
Atmospheric Research show that a third of the permanent snow
and ice in the Southern Alps was lost between 1977 and 2014.
More recently, New Zealand glaciers have been shown to have
lost 1.5m a year from 2015 to 2019, almost seven times as much
compared to the thinning that occurred between 2000 and 2004.
As a globe-trotting dirtbag climber for more than a decade, this
poses a dilemma: how to offset the carbon footprint of someone
who regularly undertakes long-haul flights and super-long
drives. Some feel so guilty about their impact on the planet that
they no longer indulge in visits to far-flung climbing destinations.
8//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

A massive rockfall tumbles down the south face of Aiguille Verte, where another hot summer continues to change the mountains we play in

Chris Davis sits atop one of dozens of glorious granite needles in the European Alps.
"rising temperatures have made
glaciers more unstable; a
weather station at 3250m on
the Marmolada had recorded 23
straight days of temperatures
above 0 degrees Celsius."
But giving up a lifestyle that has given me so much is too
much of a sacrifice, personally. So I look for other ways to
reduce my carbon footprint. A huge chunk of greenhouse gas
emissions come from agriculture; in New Zealand, it’s almost
50 per cent. Red meat, in particular, leaves a large carbon
footprint, due to cows’ methane emissions.
A recent American study found that if every person in the
US cut their meat consumption by 25 per cent, annual
greenhouse gas emissions would fall by 1 per cent. So rule
number one is ‘eat less meat’ or, more particularly, ‘buy
less meat’; I have no problem eating a steak that someone
else won’t eat, for example, because it doesn’t contribute to
consumer demand.
Which brings me to the second rule: about a third of all food
produced is thrown out. This is not only offensively wasteful,
but it also scars the environment, given how much energy
and water it takes to grow, harvest, package and distribute
those billions of tonnes of food.
Rule number two is ‘no waste’, and it doesn’t just apply to my
food. Those who partake in the dirtbag lifestyle are familiar
with eating the leftovers on someone else’s plate in a cafe or
restaurant, or dumpster-diving, where the all-important smelltest
determines what might still be edible.
Nor does it apply to only food. The holes in my climbing
clothing are generally covered in duct tape, and I only ever
acquire clothing - usually second-hand - when my old ones
are well and truly beyond their retirement date.
When I travel, I tend to go for a long period on a one-way
ticket, rather than take several flights a year for a number
of shorter climbing holidays. When not travelling, I have a
further rule: unless the weather is apocalyptic, I don’t tend to
drive, and if we do drive to climbing crags, we car-pool.
Personal actions, of course, are insignificant in the grand
scheme of things unless they are done collectively. These
are all easy ways everyone can reduce their carbon footprint.
But climate change is already happening to such an extent
that it is irreversible. For alpine climbers, the seasons are
already no longer what they used to be. Warmer climes
mean thinner and vanishing snow bridges over glacier
crevasses, ever-wider bergschrund gaps between the ice
and the rockwall, and melting permafrost releasing clumps of
rock and soil that are normally frozen together.
The latter is thought to be behind the fate of the hut known as
the Bivouac de la Fourche, which was perched precariously
on the Kuffner Ridge on Mont Maudit, but which collapsed
into the Brenva Glacier in August. There was no cliff above it
that could have unleashed a hut-smashing rock-slide.
And then there’s glacial retreat, which makes some climbs
inaccessible due to an increasingly hostile moraine wall to
overcome. Even if you do make it, there might be an extra
25m of technical climbing just to reach what used to be the
start of the route.
I had arrived in France at the end of June, and quickly
jumped on some ice climbing objectives before the summer
temperatures made them unclimbable. The top section of
the classic Frendo Spur, on Aiguille du Midi, had already
deteriorated to black glacial ice instead of much friendlier
snow névé, which had already melted.
Within two weeks, the unofficial advice was not to climb on
certain mountains because getting there was too dangerous.
Crossing some glaciers had become a lottery, we were
told, rather than an exercise in skill and knowledge. And
attempting some routes was tempting fate: a huge boulder
on Cosmiques Arête fell down a few weeks after we’d
climbed it.
10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

Chris Davis climbing the Arete du Diable traverse, on Mt Blanc du Tacul, before conditions became too warm this past summer.

Chris Davis on the famous snow arete section of the Frendo Spur on Aiguille du Midi, high above the town of Chamonix
"The top section of the classic
Frendo Spur, on Aiguille du Midi,
had already deteriorated to
black glacial ice instead of much
friendlier snow névé, which had
already melted. "
As rockfall became more and more ubiquitous,
Chamonix-based climbers looked to objectives that
didn’t involve crossing a glacier. The Sala Athee, in
the Charpoua area, was one such climb, but we were
hesitant after having watched a massive avalanche
sweep down towards the gully that leads to it.
We decided to head up to the area anyway and seek
the local advice of the guardian at the Charpoua
Refuge, who told us that there hadn’t been any
activity in the gully since then. Several parties had
also climbed the route in the previous week, including
the previous day.
The next morning, pre-dawn, was a still, chilly
atmosphere as we approached the gully. It was slabby
and slippery, as expected, given it had been glaciallycarved
eons ago. Rockfall was thankfully absent as
we scrambled up to the base of the climb.
Nerves around the descent were always going to
centre around down-climbing the gully. A mountain is
generally a lot more unstable in the evening, after its
features have spent several hours in the warmth of
the day. We did what all alpinists do when confronted
with unavoidable objective hazards: we crossed our
fingers and hurried through.
It seemed a fitting metaphor in these warming times.
There will be a time in the not-too-distant future when
classic routes are no longer what they were, or may
have even fallen down altogether. For those that are
still there and are safe enough to climb, there’s no
time to waste.
derekcheng.media
www.instagram.com/dirtbagdispatches
Sala Athee starts with two warm-up pitches before
the wall steepens into a technical slab, an awkward
chimney, and then a series of splitter cracks that
climax in an exposed step around an overhanging
arête. The top-out, too, is suitably glorious: a flat, wide
and spacious platform that wing-suiters, in the right
conditions, would happily launch from.
12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

Climbers topping out a route called Voice of the Druid, on Aiguille du Moine, high above the shrinking Mer de Glace.

Getting High
on the Old
Ghost Road
Spectacular mountain biking
in a unique wilderness
By Eric Skilling
Absolute focus. This moment was all about the thrill of racing along the trail,
anticipating the direction of the next turn, guessing how big those rocks were
and picking the right line as the bike careered over sporadic streams in a
spray of cold water. Nothing else mattered as I weaved between tree trunks,
under overhanging branches and around huge rocks. The closeness of the
forest exaggerated the sense of speed and yes, I was on a high.
Several metres away one of those typically clear West Coast rivers crashed
and cascaded its way over giant granite and marble boulders, but its beauty
went almost unnoticed as I concentrated on the path ahead.
It was the second day of my journey, and I had reached the last 8km of a
25km section from Lyell to Stern Huts. Already I understood why trampers
and mountain bikers got so excited about tackling this challenging trail –
today must rate as one of the most stunning and varied mountain biking
days you will find anywhere in the world. And it is less than a third of this
remarkable track.
Cycling the Wilderness Trail had inspired me to come back and explore
more of the distinctive forests, rivers and mountains that make this region so
unique. The intriguingly named Old Ghost Road promised 85km of adventure
set in a magnificent corner of West Coast wilderness, but I underestimated
how spectacular and memorable my four days here would be.
This second day had begun with 6 km of almost continual climbing through
a tranquil beech forest, the floor covered with lichens and thick, bright-green
mosses. Apart from the gravel crunching under my tyres and the noise of my
breathing, the only sound to break the silence was the call of the occasional
bird.
Above: Slips Briges above Mokihinui. Image by Jonathan Kennett
14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

Climbing through stunning native forest. Image by Sven Martin

Everything changed dramatically at around 1300 metres
elevation, as the path emerged out of the bush line and
onto Lyell saddle. Suddenly there were views to the
horizons. West to the scarred bush-clad valleys of the
Glasgow range. East past the tiny lines and boxes of
Murchison and the ridges of Nelson Lakes National Park,
to the jagged Kaikoura peaks outlined against the distant
skyline.
Gone was the lush flora of the forest - the ground now
covered in the browns and reds of wind battered alpine
shrubs and tussock grasses. A strong wind raced up from
the valleys and over the ridge where I stood gazing out
at the breath-taking views. Within a couple of minutes I
was uncomfortably cold, so I sought the sanctuary of Top
Camp Shelter, a few hundred metres away.
The next few hours were a mix of exhilarating and
exhausting riding, which also left me in awe of the
exceptional engineering and the effort taken to make this
track possible. Large sections of the track have been
carved into the cliff faces with several bridges clinging to
the rock, making it a spine-tingling traverse.
To say the next section below Ghost Lake hut is
challenging is like saying New Zealand has a few lakes
and trees. The steep descent below Ghost Lake on a fully
laden bike confirmed I am a bit of a wuss but the route
itself is truly impressive.
Thankfully, once below Skyline steps and into the bush
again, the pathway levels out and the last 8km along the
Stern Valley is an epic finish to an incomparable day’s
riding. There would likely be a bit of a sting in the legs
tomorrow, but this day had exceeded all my expectations.
The good news is that this wasn’t the only section of
the trail that would get the heart racing. A day later at
Specimen hut, I had gazed from the window down to
the narrow and steep-sided Mokihinui river gorge and
contemplated how the track could possibly get us any
further. Once again, all credit to the people who invested
thousands of hours blasting, digging, and smashing their
way to create the slender path that clings to the edge
of the cliffs, offering nerve-wracking views of the swift
moving waters of the Mokihinui many metres below.
Some choose to ride all 85km in a day, such as Lynn,
Mira, Charlotte and Duncan, residents from nearby
Westport. I am not a local and deciding to take 4 days
to make this amazing journey was the right choice for
me. Not least because I lack the technical skill and
fitness for such a gruelling adventure, but also because
this unique wilderness area demands savouring. In the
words of Marion Boatwright, the American immigrant,
explaining his motivation for dedicating over a decade of
his life to making the OGR a reality - “……this is world
class country…….. it’s like your seriously hot sister, but
because she is your sister you can’t see how gorgeous
she really is.”
Lynn, Mira, Charlotte and Duncan chose
to ride all 85km in one day
16//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

Unmatched perch on the tops. - Image by Richard Rossiter
“…this is world
class country…
it’s like your
seriously hot
sister, but
because she is
your sister you
can’t see how
gorgeous she
really is.”

Trail snaking its way past Ghost lake.Image by Richard Rossiter
While I am impressed with the skill and applaud the achievement of a one-day
assault, I was glad to have set aside more time to appreciate this rare experience.
There are several aspects of the OGR that must be mentioned in more detail. The
birdlife, the accommodation, and the engineering.OGR is a fatal place to venture
into if you are a stoat, rat or possum. A network of 1,000 traps, deviously managed
by an enthusiastic group of conscientious folks have successfully dispatched over
7,000 of these unwelcome exotics. The benefits add so much to the experience for
us visitors. In the few hours it took from the trailhead at Lyell car park to the Lyell
hut, I was cheered on by the calls of wrens, tomtits, rifleman, kaka, the inimitable
bellbird and my favourite, the curiously cheeky piwakawaka.
It was common to see bellbirds from the track, several families of whio alongside
the rivers, and I had the pleasure of a robin joining me during a lunch stop between
Stern hut and Specimen point. On the last stretch along the Mokihinui River, kea
called to each other from the treetops above me. A dawn chorus of native birds is
my idea of a perfect wake up call, and the menagerie of birds calling from the native
trees around Stern hut take the award for the most cheerful and energetic.
Marcus about to tackle the Skyline Steps.
Image by Jeff Ward
Weka are often seen on the path, sprinting their way into the shrubbery ahead,
hooting their annoyance at my intrusion. But in the ultimate confirmation of a
successful of the pest eradication programme, kiwi have been heard in the beech
forests around Lyell and Ghost Lake hut. To all you folks who work so diligently, and
to quote the General manager of the Mokihinui-Lyell Backcountry Trust – take a
bow! Nga mihi.
Perfectly placed Top Camp Shelter was a
welcome refuge from the wind
18//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235
Secondly, the accommodation. Lots of thought has gone into the placement, design
and building of the huts. Photographs from the legendary Ghost Lake hut confirm it
is up there with the best placed back country accommodation in NZ in terms of wide
vistas and stunning sunrises and sunsets. Specimen point is also a gem of a site for
a hut. Nestled on a small ridge, dominated by steep bush-clad valley walls, and filled
with the sounds of the Mokihinui River. Stern hut is the forest-bathing mecca of the
trail, nestled amongst regenerating rimu, totara, matai and kahikatea.

PRESENTS
A NEW RIDE-THROUGH VIDEO OF
GET ALL THE INFO YOU NEED FOR YOUR RIDE
PLANNING TIPS POTENTIAL HAZARDS DECISION POINTS
Find it free to watch on YouTube, the websites below, or scan the QR code
bit.ly/OldGhostRoadVideo
By Mountain Safety Council
planmywalk.nz oldghostroad.org.nz nzcycletrail.com

Exhausting and thrilling track across the alpine tops
The engineering. It has to be seen to be believed.
Riding the trail is exciting enough, but it is difficult to
comprehend how they were constructed in the first
place. Not enough can be said about the countless
hours and dogged determination it has taken
designing, let alone building these enthralling tracks
and bridges.
Phil Rossiter, one of the original “band of four”
designers is acknowledged as an enthusiastic
mountain biker, and his influence in design is
obvious. Although there were times when I forced
myself to “look at the track, not at the drop” to
paraphrase an old skiing saying, I never felt unsafe.
A series of solid wire “rails” are there to protect the
weary. This trail is set in a wilderness environment,
demanding to be treated with caution and respect.
Jeff below Ghost Lake Hut. - Image by Rachael Melville
An after-dinner discussion amongst a group of
passionate trampers and mountain bikers at Stern
hut drifted to a comparison of the OGR to the more
established walks - Milford, Hollyford, Routeburn,
Kepler to name a few. OGR was winner by a clear
majority.
Late on the last day, shortly after a bush shower, I
was sipping coffee on the deck at the Rough and
Tumble Lodge, surrounded by two groups of riders
enjoying the satisfaction of completing the ride,
cleaning their bikes, ordering drinks, loudly reliving
moments on the trail. Like them, I vowed to be back
again.
The author travelled courtesy of Old Ghost Road and
Development West Coast. I choose to use Jetboil,
Macpac, Backcountry Cuisine and Keen products
Spine-tingling drops over the Mokihinui River
20//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

sky
grind
Words and images courtesy of Red Bull
Brazilian Leticia Bufoni's Sky Grind project involved
2,750m (9,000ft) of altitude, an aircraft from the Fast
And Furious movie franchise, a skydiving expert from
the Mission Impossible film series, skate obstacles,
parachutes – and potentially the most hair-raising
skateboard trick ever recorded.
22//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//23

Bufoni has carved out a reputation as one of the best global
skaters with six X Games golds to her name, three silvers and
three bronzes.
For this project, the São Paulo native hopped on an airplane used
in the Fast & Furious films and made history with a distinctive trick
shot by the aerial cameraman from the film Mission: Impossible -
Fallout.
Bufoni intensified her physical training in the months leading
into the stunt at Aerotelier - an aero-sport base in Argentina - by
skydiving more than 100 times to prepare for this challenge.
When Bufoni finally felt ready, she traveled in late August with
more than 50 people from the production and shooting crew to
shoot in a tailor-made skatepark inside a C-130 Hercules airplane.
California Skateparks founder Joe Ciaglia, who built the skatepark
used in the Tokyo Olympics, has known Bufoni for more than 10
years and built the first skatepark designed inside an airplane.
Wearing a parachute of almost 20 pounds (9.1kg), she
skateboarded and jumped on August 30, and was captured by
Craig O'Brien, the same cameraman that jumps with Tom Cruise
in 'Mission: Impossible - Fallout'.
Bufoni nailed the 'feeble grind' - a difficult trick that combines a
50/50 and boardslide trick - where she slid on the handrail, by
leaning on the side of the metal truck connecting the wheels on
the back of the skateboard, whilst in the air.
The 29-year-old enthused: "It's crazy to think that I'm the first
person to skateboard inside a plane and do a feeble in the air.
That's something I didn't know if it was possible or not. I've never
skateboarded on an airplane. That was one of the greatest days
of my life."
Red Bull Air Force member Jeffrey Provenzano, 46 who trained
Bufoni in skydiving, added: "As a skydiver, she is amazing. I
was surprised. Athletes tend to learn fast, but she was beyond
expectations. She gave 100% of attention to all of the details."
Watch the full Sky Dive Clip HERE.

Home to a tiny island
community of 212 people
jurawhisky.com

Above: Framed by driftwood sculptures as we headed to Whatipu / Below: Enjoying a tail-wind and firm low tide sand on the way south
26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

A
Stunning
Welcome
Back to
the West
Coast
Karekare Whatipu Loop, Waitakere (22km – 6 hours)
Words and Images by Eric Skilling
Standing on Karekare beach I can understand why a famous
director chose to shoot a movie here.
Apart from a lone fisherman practicing his craft we were the only
people. Ahead of us the fine black sand, freshly groomed by the
outgoing tide, stretched to the horizon. Somewhere up there,
over six kilometres away along the beach, was the entrance to the
Manukau harbour.
The colours of the Tasman Sea always seem that much richer
alongside the deep charcoals and blacks of the shoreline. Today
the waves fought their way in against an offshore wind, finally
crashing in a mass of spray and then racing up the sloping beach
towards us, coming to a stop a few feet away.
Almost a kilometre away to our left, a few dunes dotted with wispy
grass looked insignificant against the heavily scarred cliffs that
were clearly losing the battle against the forces of this high-energy
coastline. Above these precipices impenetrable-looking West
Coast bush covered the ridges, the greenery contrasting starkly
against the darker shades on the cliff faces. You can only be
inspired by this place.
Finally, four years after the tracks had been closed to protect our
native Kauri trees, we are able to travel the loop from Karekare
to Whatipu and back. Our plan on this trip was to meet at the
Karekare car park and travel south some 10km along the beach
to the entrance of the Manukau Harbour at Whatipu. Then head
inland past the camping ground and follow the newly completed
Muir and Gibbons tracks back to Karekare.
From 90-mile beach to Fiordland, the West Coast is spectacularly
wild country full of great walks but in terms of accessibility and
variety of terrain, this rates as one of the best. Combining an
open beach section leaving you fully exposed to the elements,
to the relative calm of tracks meandering through lush bush, with
stunning views from the cliff-tops and boardwalks over thriving
wetlands.
Our leader made a great call when she decided to head south
along the beach in the early morning just after low tide. We all
appreciated making fresh footprints along the firm sand, and we
got to enjoy the wind at our backs on the most unprotected section
of the walk. Much more appealing than a slog back into the wind
in soft sand at high tide with tiring legs.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//27

Looking north from the cliff top on Gibbons Track, the rocky island at Karekare Beach in the distance
Another benefit of setting out in a strong northerly wind was the
protection offered by the Waitakere range. It would rain quite
steadily all day on the eastern side of the range, but on this side,
we were well protected. Our day just got warmer and the sky
clearer to the point where some of us would have run out of water
if it hadn’t been for the water tanks at Pararaha campsite.
A couple of hours after setting off we passed the man-made
driftwood structures standing stark and slightly out of place in the
black sand and reached the entrance to the Manukau Harbour
and a dramatic change in scene. Gone was the wide expanse of
sand, replaced with the rugged Wing Head and Paratutai Island
and deceptively calm waters, well sheltered from the swell. A
couple of rocky outcrops in front of the Paratutai were stark-white
with a coating of bird droppings, clearly a haven for the numerous
sea birds. The distant clay-coloured cliffs on the southern side of
the heads looked serene with their smooth grassy tops compared
to the dark rocky crags and dense bush on this northern side.
It was a pleasant surprise to realise we had covered over 10km
and were almost exactly half-way by this stage. Our leader led us
to a sheltered sand dune at the base of Wing Head for lunch. A
brash pipit/pihoihoi dropped in and got to enjoy a few morsels of
fruit as reward for its confidence.
Moving off the beach and onto the new Gibbons and Muir
tracks was a pleasure. Costing over $2.3Mn, the helicopters,
excavators and army of workers had moved on, leaving us to
enjoy the serenity of the bush. Alongside and sometimes over us,
regenerating karaka, cabbage tree, nikau, harakeke/flax, toetoe
and manuka are thriving.
A timely shout-out to all those involved in this redevelopment.
The track has been designed to last. No expense spared in
building wide and well gravelled paths lined with deep drains. The
bridges and numerous wide boardwalks make their way over the
wetlands, and the many steps built to minimise erosion as well as
making it easier for us to negotiate in bad weather.
Gibbons track has been routed to take full advantage of some
magnificent cliff-top views that got more spectacular as we
made our way to the top of the ridges. About half-way up the
first ridge, we reached a lookout which took in a south-western
vista including ninepin rock/Te Toka Tapu a Kupe, the beach and
Paratutai island.
Impressive as it was that stop did not compare to the panorama
from the next clearing on the cliff edge high above the wide
coastland. Facing more north, our gaze followed the dense
bush-lined slopes of the cliffs on our right and then descended
into the unique landscape below us with its scrub, marshes, and
glistening lakes. Further out across coastal foliage and the dark
band of beach, the foam lined edges of a deep-blue Tasman Sea
looked deceivingly peaceful from this distance. The rocky island
at Karekare Beach was very small and distant from this elevation.
The path meandered inland from this point, under overhanging
plants to join the Muir track. It eventually descended steeply
downward into the jagged Pararaha Valley camp site and shelter.
The trail was still wide and well maintained, with wooden steps
and a chain-rail at the steeper sections. Above us the sky was
clearing, and temperatures were rising as fast as the humidity, so
we enjoyed a welcome stop for a drink and a snack at the cooking
shelter. Once on the valley floor we followed the raised boardwalks
over swamps and steep valley faces, to the sand-dunes.
At this point one of our newer members let us know she had been
enduring blisters from her relatively new boots. Fortunately, we
had reached the soft sandy 4-wheel drive tracks in the dunes, and
onto the firmer footing of dry lakebeds, so she took off her boots
and was able to walk in the relative comfort of her socks.
In a little over a kilometre the trail led us back to the rail tunnel left
from the original log-felling industry of the Gibbons family dating
back over 150 years ago. Even though the passageway was part
of a system that has denied us later generations the benefits
and pleasure the ancient Kauri, you can only respect the effort
involved and sacrifices made by those who physically constructed
the railway and passageway under the conditions at the time.
It wasn’t long before we were back at Karekare beach and a
scattering of folk enjoying the surf or riding the beach on bikes.
Thanks to all those who have strived and succeeded in preserving
this area, and to those who are helping to make it more like it
once was. There has been such a vast improvement since it was
first deemed a scientific reserve in 2002 and from what we saw
on this trip, you can only be optimistic about the future.
My only regret was that we had not planned for a full weekend
here and travelled the Omanawanui track which, I am told, is even
more stunning than what we had already enjoyed.
28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235
I choose to use Jetboil, Keen footwear, Macpac and Backcountry products

crankworx
rotorua
2022
Words and images supplied by Crankworx
Crankworx Rotorua took flight in March of 2015, becoming the first
festival outside of North America and Europe. Since then, it’s played
host to some of the most memorable moments in Crankworx history
and is now referred to “the soul of Crankworx” due to the unique
ability to combine riding with culture. This year, Crankworx Rotorua
was once again, the final stop of the World Tour.
One rider that most people arguably had a close eye on was Emil
Johansson with the Triple Crown of Slopestyle on the line. Johansson
worked so hard over the past month after his crash at the Crankworx
Cairns Slopestyle event. Johansson followed the concussion protocol
and rehabbed very diligently to get himself cleared to get back in
action, and he really came out with a bang today.
“This is actually the first event in a while where I needed to calm
myself down because we'd been riding so much,” Johansson said
of his experience during the finals. “I was really prepared and really
pumped for the event. And it was so much on the line here. For me
to be able to put all the stuff down that I managed to put down and
perform at the level I did, it feels surreal. Even though on the surface
we might look calm, deep down we're really prepared.”
The crowd went wild to see Johansson return with absolute
cleanliness and technicality, spinning opposite directions, and tail
whipping all directions. Johansson’s win also secured himself the
2022 Triple Crown of Slopestyle for the second year in a row.
Timothe Bringer took the second place position with a score of 89.5,
getting himself the silver medal t and also securing the third place
position for the Crankworx FMBA Slopestyle World Championship
award.
Earlier in the day the people of Rotorua were treated to a Crankworx
favourite, the TREK Official New Zealand Whip Off Championships
presented by POC. It has been a great Whip Off season this year
and today was no exception. The small group of riders persevered
through the schedule changes and the challenging weather conditions
to put on a sick show for the spectators. Local Kiwi legend, Matt Begg,
maintained his first place position for the Crankworx Rotorua Whip Off
earning himself the gold medal again today.
“Pretty stoked,” Begg said of his win. “I was just having fun with my
friends and I happened to go in behind my friend Dave and then Allan,
so I just got a good wind which made me go a bit more sideways. I am
just stoked for everyone that we all got to ride together. We obviously
have been battling with the rain this week so the course was a little bit
tougher to ride but we made do with what we got and that’s what it’s
all about.”
30//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

Local Kiwi legend, Matt Begg takes the Whip Off win
Image by Jay French
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//31

32//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

Emil Johansson performs during Slopestyle Training at Crankworxs in Rotorua, NZ and goes on to win the Triple Crown
Image by Graeme Murray / Red Bull Content Pool
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//33

Above: Dan Booker at the Whip Off - Image by Jay French
Left: Tomas Lemoine on practise day - Image by C Trahan
Bottom Left: Gareth Burgess at the Whip Off - Image by C Trahan
And that’s a wrap to the Crankworx 2022 season. If
Crankworx Rotorua, the final stop on the World Tour, could
be described in just a few phrases it would be mud showers,
rain showers and champagne showers. The atmosphere was
electric onsite with fans braving all weather conditions for a
chance to rub shoulders with their icons. Racers embraced
the turbulent conditions to put on one of the most impressive
performances of skills, spills and plenty of thrills seen in
Rotorua.
Director Ariki Tibble reflected on the past week of elite racing
and the contribution of the community in Rotorua. “It's been
20 months since we delivered the last full scale Crankworx
Rotorua event and it's hard to find the words to express how
it has felt to have so many international manuhiri back in our
midst...I think hosting visitors is part of our DNA, it brings out
the best in us, and we feel more whole when we are doing it.”
Crankworx may be over for this year, but you don’t need
to wait long for your mountain biking adrenaline hit. The
Crankworx Summer Series kicks off with four prime locations
from February 28 – March 12, 2023 with all roads leading
back to Rotorua for Crankworx in March 2023.
For more information on the Crankworx Summer Series and
Crankworx Rotorua 2023, check out the website:
www.crankworx.com
TREK Official New
Zealand Whip Off
Championships
presented by POC
1.Matt Begg (NZL)
2.Peter Kaiser (AUT)
3.Allan Cooke (USA)
Maxxis Slopestyle in
Memory of McGazza
1.Emil Johansson
(SWE)
2.Timothe Bringer
(FRA)
3.Max Fredriksson
(SWE)
King & Queen of
Crankworx
1.Bas van Steenbergen
(CAN) // Caroline
Buchanan (AUS)
2.Tomas Lemoine (FRA)
// Vaea Verbeeck (CAN)
3.Samuel Blenkinsop
(NZL) // Jordy Scott
(USA)
34//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

Because it’s all
about you
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> Clutha Gold Trail
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and more...
Call the experts at Bike It Now!: 0800 245 366
Clyde Bike Shop and Tour office open 7 Days
Cromwell Bike Shop open Monday - Saturday
NEW SHOP NOW OPEN IN WANAKA open 7 days
www.bikeitnow.co.nz

uapehu's
greatest
hits...five
fantastic
day-hikes
With Tongariro National Park and
Whanganui National Park at its
doorstep, Ruapehu is a region
brimming with world-class hikes in the
most diverse outdoor playground you
can imagine. From dramatic volcanic
landscapes, ancient lava flows to alpine
valleys, sacred rivers and mountain
streams, this natural wonderland is
made for off the beaten track explorers
who seek authentic, immersive travels
to truly connect to people and place.
So grab your gear, family or friends and
find out why Ruapehu reigns supreme
as the Central North Island’s ultimate
hiking holiday destination.
"Ruapehu is a region
brimming with worldclass
hikes in the
most diverse outdoor
playground you can
imagine."
Hiking in Tongariro National Park
36//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

1.Tama Lakes
A spectacular alternative to the Tongariro Alpine
Crossing, the Tama Lakes Track is a 17.6 km return
day hike that journeys through otherworldly alpine
and volcanic landscapes. An extension of the
Taranaki Falls Track, the Tama Lakes Track begins
in Whakapapa Village just 100m from the Tongariro
National Park Visitor Centre. Lower in elevation with
less uphill walking and exposure to alpine conditions,
the Tama Lakes Track will take you through a
stunning exploration of Tongariro National Park with
phenomenal views of Mt Ngāuruhoe and Mt Ruapehu
as well as the glistening lower and upper Tama Lakes.
2.Tupapakurua Falls
An absolute hidden gem in the Erua Forest
Conservation Area, the Tupapakurua Falls Track is an
11 km return tramp situated in National Park Village.
Enter a lush green landscape of native bush with an
incredible variety of plant and tree species including
tawa, rimu, miro and totara creating a haven full of
birdlife and melodic birdsong as you arrive to the first
lookout point with beautiful views of Mt Taranaki and
Mt Ruapehu. You’ll also discover a local community
initiative in place called Helping Hands which allows
visitors to actively help maintain the track by carrying
buckets of gravel to key stations along the way.
Descend to the Tupapakurua Falls Lookout and enjoy
panoramic views of the cascading falls in all its glory.
3.Taranaki Falls
With two national parks side by side, it’s no wonder
Ruapehu is a region full of enchanting waterfalls.
The ever-popular Taranaki Falls Track is located in
the heart of Whakapapa Village on State Highway
48 in Tongariro National Park. This short day hike
is an easy 6 km loop walking track and offers a
spectacular variety of terrain and landscapes as you
wander through beech forest, alpine shrublands,
mountain streams, flowing red tussock and ancient
lava flow. Soak up the views of the iconic peaks of
Mt Ngāuruhoe, Mt Tongariro and Mt Ruapehu before
arriving at the base of captivating Taranaki Falls as it
cascades 20 m over the edge of a large lava flow.
4.Waitonga Falls
Located in the charming mountain town of Ohakune,
also known as NZ’s carrot capital, the Waitonga Falls
Track begins 11 km up Ohakune Mountain Road. An
easy 4 km return via the same track, you’ll wind your
way through mountain beech, kaikawaka forest and
alpine wetlands, and on a clear day, enjoy majestic
views of Mt Ruapehu. The 39 m Waitonga Falls is
Tongariro National Park’s highest waterfall and is also
a favourite amongst the local community.
Top: Tupapakurua Falls, Image by Aex Pearce / Below: Waitonga Falls
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//37

5.Tongariro Alpine
Crossing
Renowned as one of the world’s best one day
hikes, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a bucket
list contender that’s so incredible you’ll want
to come back and do this once in a lifetime
experience again. Trek 19.4 km of raw, rugged,
magnificent terrain of Tongariro National Park
- a UNESCO Dual World Heritage Site of
natural and cultural significance and NZ’s oldest
national park. In this environment, you can never
underestimate the elements so it’s important
to plan for your hike by bringing the right gear,
checking the weather, letting someone know
your plans, or better yet, going with a local
guide who can also organise accommodation,
track transport, and meals, so you can enjoy the
Tongariro Alpine Crossing to the max.
Above: Summer on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Below: Tongariro Alpine Crossing Emerald Lakes
Where to stay
From adventure lodges to riverside chalets and mountainside
chateaus, Ruapehu has a fantastic variety of glorious, gorgeous
accommodation options that will woo you to stay an extra night or two.
Weave your way through cosy alpine villages and charming mountain
towns as you journey along the Adventure Highway from Taumarunui,
National Park Village, Whakapapa Village, Ohakune to Waiouru.
Waking up with the mountains at your doorstep or the river running by
is the perfect inspiration for exploring the great outdoors. With many
accommodation operators offering special summer packages, it’s the
perfect time to grab a deal to stay and play in Ruapehu this summer.
Where to eat, drink and be merry
Active holidays mean you get to fuel up on the good stuff and indulge
in a few treats as well. There’s no shortage of fantastic food and
beverage to enjoy in Ruapehu where you can tour a local meadery
and brewery and book a tasting, indulge in world-famous chocolate
eclairs, Devonshire tea in a 5-star garden of national significance,
fantastic food trucks, boutique bakeries, bakehouses, tantalising
toasties and even picnic with alpacas.
Safety in our greater outdoors
The weather in Tongariro National Park is changeable all year
round so it’s best to prepare and pack for all weather conditions. It’s
important to let someone know of your plans, check for any alerts from
the Department of Conservation’s website and download the free Plan
my Walk app developed by the NZ Mountain Safety Council. You can
learn more about it at:
https://www.mountainsafety.org.nz/about-plan-my-walk/
Start planning for an unforgettable Ruapehu summer at www.visitruapehu.com
38//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

SUMMER IS
RIGHT HERE
STAY IN RUAPEHU FOR YOUR GREAT WALK ADVENTURE
The Ruapehu region is home to Two Great Walks and New Zealand’s only Great Walk that is entirely on water!
The variety and vast wonderlands really do make for an awesome summer holiday!
For more information head to our website:

Degrees of change
Are climate changes of a few degrees a cause for concern?
It is so easy to do nothing. But what can you do about it?
In New Zealand, we are isolated, but with that comes
exposure; we are not entrenched in a large European city or
in some small town in the centre of the Midwest of America,
miles from the coast, we are exposed, and we joke that in New
Zealand that we get ‘four seasons in one day’.
That is exposure, and with that exposure should come
awareness.
Now we are not saying this year’s poor ski season in the North
Island had anything to do with global warming, nor that our
local sea levels are obviously warmer over summer for longer,
and that there are now fish typically seen in the tropics now in
our east coast waters, that the flooding in Australia, the forest
fires in the US, the glacial melt in Antarctica might have nothing
to do with global warming and climate change – but it might.
As ex-president Obama said,
"We are the first generation to feel the effect
of climate change and the last generation
who can do something about it."
Surprisingly, the global temperature during the last ice age
was only 7-9 degrees colder than now – now that does not
seem like a lot, but even a change of 1 degree has widespread
changes in regional and local temperature, creating rain which
equals flood and is the cause of other extreme weather events.
The government website www.genless.govt.nz has a range of
important ideas, both personally and for business so that you
can have an effect.
This is from their everyday life list:
• Eat low-carbon and minimise food waste
• Choose slow fashion
• Set good digital habits
• Measure your impact
• Shop sustainably
• Invest ethically
• Support business action
They also have a list of practical ideas
• Bike to work
• Meat-free Fridays
• Flight free holidays
• Join conversations get a voice
• Tell leaders what you want
• Get Informed
Check out how you can help www.genless.govt.nz/
Genless website open with a simple and challenging
statement...
"History will only
remember what we do."
We are seeing even greater warming over land than oceans,
moistening of the atmosphere, shifts in regional rain patterns,
changes in regional temperatures, increases in extreme
weather events, ocean acidification, melting glaciers, and rising
sea levels the list just goes on and on.
There are numerous examples of the worst climatic and
catastrophic events on record in the last two years; heatwaves,
tornados, cyclones, flooding, rising seas level, bushfires,
and droughts. There is an equally extensive list of ‘potential’
causes, now, there are always naysayers that will have us
believe that it is simply nature at work, a process of natural
change.
But the simple observation is this. Man has had an enormous
impact on the world, we have changed the natural structure,
affected the chemical balance, polluted, poisoned, chopped
down and consumed, and it would be incredibly naive to
consider that this has no impact on the world environment.
40//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//41

in my
opinion
So we reached out to some of our adventure
community to see their thoughts about Global
Warming and Climate Change. Here's what they
had to say...
Frankie Sanders
Global warming, fact or fiction? Thanks for posing those
questions. Great topic. I do however feel like the answers to
those questions are multilayered, complex, and very difficult to
summarise briefly.
I've been writing blogs covering some of the environmental impacts
pertinent to our business, and I find I simply can't keep the words
down, in fact, each blog just leads to another one tackling another
aspect of the same conversation.
I think it is hard (at least for me) to be definitive and concise around
such huge topics. And I actually don't think that there is any one
silver bullet that can reverse our current situation.
Lauren Murray
Global warming, fact or fiction? Totally fact. I’ve
noticed snow coming less - winters shortened,
summers lasting longer. Seasons are out of balance.
Both in NZ and I’ve noticed it overseas.
Is there any one thing that you personally feel we
should all be doing to assist in solving the issue?
We all need to cut back on eating meat. I really don’t
think there’s a more obvious and easier achieved
solution than that.
I no longer eat meat, and do my best with reduction
of all animal products. I use reusable items where
possible, and avoid certain products/brands/companies
depending on their impact on the climate.
We aren’t too late but, we aren’t far. My kids will see
the damage exponentially. And I am skeptical that
it will change. Humans are, on a whole, too greedy
and selfish. And travelling this year again has made
me more sure of this, unfortunately. I have seen just
how behind or how far to go certain communities
and people, which make up HUGE population (i.e.
Americans/America) have before they get to where
it feels like we in NZ (where work is STILL needed)
currently are.
There are many actionable ways people can be involved in being
part of the solution for our environmental situation, and different
people will find some outlets easier than others. So I think it's about
providing choices and options for engagement not pinning down
'one' thing, which seems pretty confrontational.
Whilst we are pretty much at a crisis point in climate change we
have to believe that we can still bring the ship around, without
belief, there can be no collective agency. As Margaret Mead would
say "Never doubt that a small group of [organised] thoughtful,
committed citizens can change the world; indeed, it's the only thing
that ever has". (brackets added).
And whilst that is a pretty fanciful idea in the face of the climate
crisis, 'small groups' are our environmental movements working
to provide those realistically achievable changes, whether it be
people's lifestyle choices, lobbying the government, or challenging
and disrupting corporate stasis. What they all share is the belief
that we can have a collective impact.
I think it is important for people to remember that we do all have
agency in our decisions and that Big Corp is affected by all of
us, and whilst it seems that we are such tiny particles in the
big machine, we create the 'demand' in 'supply and demand', if
everyone stopped buying a product tomorrow that company could
not exist.
The other part of this is if we cannot escape our demand (i.e.
you have a gasoline car so need petroleum) then we also can
have our collective voice heard on the way that Big Corp conduct
themselves, holding companies to account, and supporting
companies that have environmentally focused decision making.
Honestly, I could talk for days...
Global warming, fact or fiction? Fact: We used to get way more snow on Mt Taranaki and
Ruapehu and for a longer winter. Now we are lucky to get 1 day up Taranaki and 1 week up
Ruapehu.
Is there any one thing that you personally feel we should all be doing to assist in
solving the issue? There’s so many things that can affect it and people can’t do everything
but yea if we all tried to do a little bit more, even one thing each, then it might help. Better to
try than to wonder what if! I like to think I’m helping by being vegetarian and very conscious
of where the things I buy come from and how they’re etc. So I think it’s possible that we
could all eat less/no meat.
Paige Hareb
Are we simply too late to fix the issue? Who knows! But I’d rather us all try now than look
back and say ‘shoulda, coulda, woulda’
42//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

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Banks Track
Akaroa
New Zealand
BANKS
TRACK,
Akaroa
Where in the world could an adventuring hiker traverse the
rim of an ancient volcanic complex, with sweeping panoramas
out across open ocean and inwards up an 8 mile volcanic
harbour? Where could you spend the night inside a private
white-flippered penguin sanctuary, see the world’s smallest
dolphins with their rounded fins, watch fur seals in numbers
and spot many rare land and marine birds? Where could you
hear a dawn chorus, such a cacophony that you will never
forget it? And walk through the famous “Fools and Dreamers”
Hinewai Reserve, 1500 hectares of native forest, with its
ancient beech, tree ferns, fuchsia and rapidly regenerating
native flora and fauna? All this and more on the Banks Track!
This unique, extinct, highly eroded, volcanic complex
forming Banks Peninsula, is situated east of Christchurch
on New Zealand’s South Island, providing the remarkably
varied landscape of the Banks Track. It starts by winding up
through open farmland at the far south-eastern end, boasting
widespread views from Ōnuku along the inner harbour and
out over 'the heads'. Walkers climb up over the crater rim at
Trig GG (699m,) with its 360 degree panorama, from which
you can see Aoraki / Mt Cook, 230km away, on a clear
day! The Track descends one of the outer valleys, through
Tutakākāhikura Scenic Reserve (full of ancient red beech
trees), following the stream where rock formations have
created multiple waterfalls, down into Flea Bay, the home of
the Pōhatu Penguin Reserve. From here the Track follows the
outer ocean coastline, along spectacular cliff tops, dropping
down past Seal Cove and alongside the Sooty Shearwater
Reserve, then on into Stony Bay. On the final day, the Track
turns and heads inland following another outer valley up
through Hinewai with its verdant, regenerating and ancient
native forest, crossing back over the crater rim. From here
there are stunning views south and east across the vast
Pacific and westward to sheltered Akaroa harbour. Beyond
are the Southern Alps and Kaikoura mountains.
3 spectacular days and 3 magical nights
Hike the volcanic hills of Banks Peninsula
Enjoy panoramas from the crater rim and along coastal
cliff tops. Walk through lush native forest with tree ferns,
waterfalls and abundant bird life. Stay in secluded bays and
gaze into our magnificent night skies. This walk Is self guided
and self catered, but we carry your bags. NZD 390 pp
bankstrack.co.nz
Volcanic activity, between 11 and 6 million years ago, led
to the formation of two overlapping volcanic cones. When
eruptions ceased, the cones were gradually eroded to about
half their original height flooding a major south facing valley.
Walkers can be reassured that there is no known magma
chamber beneath the volcano and there has not been any
sign of volcanic activity in the last 5 million years!
In 1989, a few neighbouring Banks Peninsula farming
families, together with the newly founded Hinewai Native
Forest Reserve, set out to rescue their livelihoods in the face
of a farming downturn and established New Zealand’s first
private walking track. 33 years on, through their intensive
conservation efforts, they have rescued much more than
themselves! All the Banks Track landowners are passionate
about conservation and consequently, following years of
forest regeneration, dedicated trapping of predators and
(ongoing!) hard work, this track offers a feast of Kiwi native
flora and fauna.
Ōnuku where walkers arrive for their first night’s
accommodation, is still maintained as farmland by Tristan
Hamilton (a professional trapper) and boasts wonderful views
in all directions. The iconic New Zealandtui were re-released
on the Peninsula in 2009,having become almost extinct here.

They are now flourishing at Ōnuku and can
be seen with bellbirds, slivereyes, kereru
(native pigeon),fantails, welcome swallows
and many other native birds in the gardens.
Ōnuku faces north and west over the
harbour and their sunsets are legendary!
On the first day’s walking there are two
side tracks. One runs along a ridge through
the new DOC Nīkau Palm Reserve. From
the ridge end, one has a glorious view
over The Akaroa Heads to the ocean. The
second takes you on a short detour to Look
Out Rock an ancient sentry post where one
can look both ways to see the full length of
the inner harbour.
Banks Track offers exceptional marine
and forest birdlife. On the second night
walkers sleep in the heart of the Pōhatu
Penguin Reserve. An evening penguin tour
is included in the Track experience and
you can learn about the fascinating story
behind Francis and Shireen Helps’ efforts
to rescue and establish their penguin
colony which is now flourishing. When
Francis was a boy, penguins walked the
streets of Akaroa! However, penguins are
ground nesting and the population was
decimated by predators. The Helps took
over farming Flea Bay with just a handful
in residence and dedicated themselves
to creating a sanctuary for them. Flea
Bay has 1260 breeding penguin pairs
– the largest little penguin population
on mainland New Zealand. If you are
lucky, watching these little white-flippered
penguins come on shore out of the water
is magical and you will see them close up,
as guides monitor nesting boxes, often
with their young during the main breeding
season Oct - Dec. After the night in Flea
Bay, there is an option for a morning kayak
through the Pōhatu Marine Reserve,
the first marine reserve created on the
east coast of South Island. Flea Bay has
abundant fur seals (curious seals often
like swimming round your kayak!) and the
round finned hector dolphins, which are
the smallest dolphins in the world and only
found in New Zealand.
Mark and Soni Armstrong live at Stony Bay
on a farm that has been in the family for
over 125 years and, alongside protecting
their own little penguins over the years,
they have helped bring the peninsula’s
last sooty shearwater (otherwise known as
mutton birds or tītī) colony back from the
brink of extinction.Stony Bay was down to
three birds in 1999 when Mark decided to
act. He built a predator-proof chicken-wire
fence following the contours of the steeply
descending paddocks, where the birds
burrow along the cliff edge. A year after
the fence was built there were five or six
eggs, and today the colony of about 50
nesting holes – a "hive of activity" – is the
only mainland colony on the peninsula.
Traps inside and outside the protected
enclosure provide added predator control,
and scientific and conservation groups
support the protection work. It is here at
Stony Bay that the dawn chorus on an
early summer morning has to be heard to
be believed! This characterful and creative
collection of accommodations, the third
night on the Banks Track, is an absolute
favourite with all the walkers. It was hand
built by Mark and crafted mainly from
home-milled macrocarpa and demolition
finds, with a pool table, an outdoor hot bath
and a shower built into a large gnarled
macrocarpa stump. You can have a bath
under the stars and gaze into magnificent
unpolluted night skies.
On the third and final day, Banks Track
walkers are lucky enough to walk through
Hinewai Reserve on a newly created
track up through Stony Bay valley to the
crater rim, before dropping back down
into Akaroa. Hinewai is fast becoming a
legend and is inspiring people round the
globe as to how we can use Nature to
do much of the regeneration work for us.
This ever expanding reserve was started
35 years ago when Maruice White raised
funds to purchase conservation land on
the Peninsula. He found Hugh Wilson,
the renowned botanist, who has made
Hinewai his lifetime’s work from the first
day. A wonderfully inspiring video has
been released “Fools and Dreamers”
which has been watched by hundreds of
thousands over the planet on You Tube.
Most of the reserve is a mosaic of native
forest in various stages of development,
including old growth red beech forest.
Ancient podocarp trees (tōtara, mataī
and kahikatea) survive here. The biggest
podocarp and beech trees are several
centuries old. The track traverses tall
forest, kānuka forest, mixed hardwood
forest (fuchsia, māhoe, fivefinger,
sevenfinger, broadleaf, kōwhai, kaikōmako,
putaputāwētā, lacebark, ribbonwood, etc.),
gorse, broom, grassy clearings, bracken,
bluffs and tussockland. More than 60
species of fern, including six species of
tree fern, grow on Hinewai.
Whilst many of New Zealand’s other
walks have become crowded, here only a
maximum of 16 walkers per day can set
out. You walk at your own pace in your own
time. Self guided and self catered, but we
carry your packs from accommodation to
accommodation. Traversing such a vast
landscape each walker feels he/she has
it to themselves. Banks Track offers a
chance to re-engage with the natural world.
It offers a uniquely Kiwi experience.
www.bankstrack.co.nz
www.facebook.com/BanksTrack/
Instagram @bankstrack
Phone: 03 304 7612
Email: bankstrack@xtra.co.nz
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//45

three go
wild in
taranaki
By Lynne Dickinson
I have spent a bit of time in Taranaki, back in the day when
the World Surf Tour used to visit its shores. Taranaki, and in
particular, Surf Highway 45 that heads around the coast, is world
renowned and this was almost the extent of my exploration of the
region. So, when a friend suggested a few days exploring New
Plymouth and the surrounding area, I was keen to go.
Flights, accommodation and car hire booked we got together
to plan the days ahead. High on the list of things we wanted to
do was to explore Mt Taranaki. (In the dialect of Taranaki Iwi,
mountain is referred to as mounga rather than maunga so we
will use this spelling when referring to Taranaki). I had read a lot
about the summit hike and knew a few people first-hand who had
escaped a close call on the mounga when the weather suddenly
turned bad. However, I knew little else about the tracks and trails
surrounding the mountain, of which there are many.
Mt Taranaki has an elevation of 2,518 meters and was first
ascended in 1839. It’s a dormant volcano and the highest point in
the North Island behind Mt Ruapehu. According to Māori legend,
Mt Taranaki once stood with the mountains of the central North
Island until a dispute over the maiden Pīhanga had Taranaki flee
his home carving out the Whanganui River on his journey to the
coast.
The area surrounding the mounga became Egmont National
Park in 1900, and the mounga was given an English name of Mt
Egmont by Captain Cook in 1770. The mounga is now referred
to by its traditional Māori name of Taranaki Mounga, with Egmont
National Park dually known as Te Papakura o Taranaki.
There are a few main entry points to the Egmont National Park/Te
Papakura o Taranaki; Egmont Road on the north side; York Road
and Pembroke Road on the east and Manaia Road on the south.
After some local advice we decided to do the Pouākai Tarns Track
but headed up the wrong access road and found ourselves at
the Taranaki/Egmont National Park Visitor Centre. Explaining our
“wrong turn” we asked for advice and with the clouds closing in
they suggested making the most of the fine weather we had now
and heading up the Holly Hut Track instead and coming back via
the Veronica Loop Track when we felt we’d walked far enough.
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Mt Taranaki as seen from the ocean at Back Beach - Image compliments of Venture Taranaki
Leaving the Visitors Centre, the trail followed a boardwalk
through the bush before reaching a series of steps that seemed
to go on forever. It’s no surprise that many of the hikes on
Taranaki Mounga require some climbing, the mounga has a
distinctive cone shape with only one way to go, and that was
up.
The climb up the steps took us to a platform that looked out
over the whole of North Taranaki. We were lucky that the
weather was still clear, and the clouds were only obscuring
the top of the mountain so we could still see all the way up
the coast. A few more metres further up and the bush cleared,
and we found ourselves in typical alpine terrain of tussock
and rocks. With the clearing of the surrounding bush, the
temperature seemed to fall sharply, and you could see how
easily people get in trouble on alpine hikes. Note to make sure
you pack for all weather conditions…
From here the track lead steeply up a scoria-like path before
edging round the side of the mounga. We cautiously scrambled
over what appeared to be a dried riverbed (surprising
considering the amount of rain we had been experiencing) with
large rocky boulders littering the floor, before continuing past
the impressive towering lava columns of the Dieffenbach Cliffs.
Above: The trail map
Right: On our way down
from the Holly Hut Track
just before we reached
the steps. The views from
here were incredible.
Image by Linda Lennon
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//47

We had been walking for a couple of hours before the temperature
dropped considerably so we decided to head back before the
cloud came in and obscured our views. I’m often reluctant to do
a tramp that is in and out on the same track; however, facing the
opposite direction exposed us to a completely different view so it
was just as enjoyable on the way down.
When we reached the fork for the Veronica Loop Track we left the
steps behind and followed a clearly marked trail through the bush
back to the Visitors Center. Their advice had been excellent so I
would thoroughly recommend chatting to them before setting off
on your hike for the day.
The second day of our adventure we had decided to explore the
local area by bike. Having flown down, we hired bikes from Cycle
Inn in New Plymouth and set off to explore the New Plymouth
Coastal Walkway. The walkway covers a distance of 13.2km from
Port Taranaki to the eastern side of Bell Block Beach and is paved
the whole way. We set off alongside the water at the Wind Wand
and headed out to Bell Block.
The Coastal Walkway is an excellent way to get around, great
for walking, running, skating and e-scootering. We followed the
shoreline down to Fitzroy Beach, over the Te Rewa Rewa Bridge
and past the Ngāmotu Golf Course before heading slightly inland
past the Taranaki Bike Park and finishing at Bell Block Beach.
The ride was easy, and we had plans to spend the afternoon
exploring some of the other biking areas close to town; however,
on our return trip the weather changed dramatically and we found
ourselves riding into a strong headwind against a battering of sleet
and hail. So, we ditched the bikes and went shopping instead!
There are plenty of unique shops in Taranaki so after an afternoon
exploring we all came home with a holiday keepsake. We also
found some great places to eat, our morning routine started with
breakfast and coffee at Chaos, a cool cafe with great atmosphere
and great food.
There are so many areas to explore by bike in Taranaki; Lake
Mangamahoe has an excellent mountain bike park not far from
the city, with trails for all levels and there are numerous cycleways
to explore in the region, including the Forgotten World Highway
timber trail, Kiwi Road Loop, Uruti Valley Loop Trail, Te Henui
Walkway, and the Huatoki Walkway. Next time we will drive down
and bring our bikes for sure.
The following morning we started the day with a short walk to
Pukepura Park. Situated in the heart of New Plymouth, the
52ha park is one of NZ's premier botanical gardens and is truly
beautiful. It is also host to a string of events and concerts including
the annual TSB Festival of Lights and is well worth a visit.
We then headed back to the mounga, this time to the southern
access point to explore Dawson Falls. After the weather had
turned cold the day before we had heard that there had been
snow falling in Stratford, but nothing could prepare us for the
scene that greeted us on the drive up to Dawson Falls Visitor
Centre. We felt like we had driven into a scene from Narnia, with
snow covering the ground and trees around us.
We had not anticipated snow at this time of year, and we were
poorly prepared. We had hoped to walk up to Wilkies Pools and
complete the circuit to Dawson Falls but our lack of appropriate
clothing for the conditions meant we restricted ourselves to the
shorter circuit walk to Dawson Falls just to be on the safe side.
It was a magical experience. The forest was like a fairytale and
Dawson Falls impressive with the snow covering the rocks around
us.
Top to bottom: Helen walking Holly Hut Track Walk
The bridge at Pukepura Park
Our last day at Dawson Falls in the snow (Image by random stranger)
With our trip coming to an end we felt we had hardly touched
what there was to see and do in Taranaki and so will definitely be
back… this time just a little better prepared.

On a fine day,Te Rewa Rewa bridge creates an impressive frame for Mt Taranaki - Image compliments of Venture Taranaki
There are loads of places to bike in Taranaki; left - The Forgotten Highway
Right top: Lake Mangamahoe / Bottom right: The foreshore Coastal Walkway
Images complements of Venture Taranaki
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//49

discover taranaki
Taranaki has so much to offer.
Top to bottom: Surfing year round
Govett-Brewster Art Gallery
Horse Riding on Tongaporutu Beach
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With world-class surf breaks, famous black-sand beaches, the
picture-perfect peak of Taranaki Maunga, and the title of NZ’s
sunniest region, Taranaki has so much on offer all year round. With a
dynamic events calendar, spectacular parks and gardens, adventure
activities galore, a vibrant food scene, and world-renowned arts and
cultural experiences, Taranaki is a region truly like no other.
TEMPT YOUR TASTEBUDS
With a bustling food and beverage scene, your foodie journey around
Taranaki isn’t limited! Many eateries offer paddock-to-plate style
menus spotlighting local produce, so visiting foodies are in for a treat.
Locally roasted coffee, craft beer, and talented chefs have all helped
to create a lively café, restaurant, and bar scene like no other.
CATCH CONTEMPORARY ART
Taranaki is brimming with creativity, and there’s no shortage of local
art galleries or studios to visit to discover your own piece of Taranaki
art. Head to the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery/Len Lye Centre, New
Zealand’s only contemporary art gallery, or Lysaght Watt Gallery,
a community gallery in South Taranaki. Percy Thomson Gallery in
Stratford is a free public art gallery.
REST AND REJUVENATE
If you’ve completed one the many stunning tracks or trails around
Taranaki Maunga, relax and unwind at The Floatation Sanctuary
on Devon Street in New Plymouth. Hit your reset button by floating
weightlessly in a luxurious mineral-rich environment – great for
healing tight or sore muscles.
HISTORY BUFF
Check out local history in South Taranaki with a visit to Tawhiti
Museum and adjoining Traders & Whalers, where history comes to
life in incredible detail. Widely regarded as the best private museum
in Aotearoa, Tawhiti Museum features thousands of life-size models
and scale figures to tell the history of Taranaki.
Start planning your escape to Taranaki today – find more inspiration
for things to see and do this summer at www.taranaki.co.nz/visit.

Pouākai Crossing
YOUR PERFECT
TARANAKI
ADVENTURE AWAITS
Discover a region brimming with unique attractions and stunning
natural landscapes to entice even the most intrepid of adventurers.
With world-class surf breaks, famous black-sand beaches, the
picture-perfect peak of Taranaki Maunga, and the title of NZ’s
sunniest region, Taranaki has so much on offer all year round.
With a dynamic events calendar, spectacular parks, walkways and
gardens, adventure activities galore, a vibrant food scene, and worldrenowned
arts and cultural experiences, Taranaki is a region truly like
no other.
Start planning your escape to Taranaki today.
Make a weekend of it!
For more inspiration on things to see and do in Taranaki, visit: taranaki.co.nz/visit
AN INITIATIVE OF VENTURE TARANAKI

X posure
Photographer: Matt Power,
Athlete: Unknown,
Location: Siargao Island, Philippines
Matt Power / Red Bull Illume

ALL I
WANT 4
XMAS
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merrell Hydro Moc Elements - Air $109.00
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
garmin inreach $549.00
WWW.GARMIN.COM/EN-NZ/
hydro flask 621ml, 710mL & 946mL Trail Series $69.99-$89.99
WWW.HYDROFLASK.CO.NZ
tasty chicken mash $9.99 - $14.99
WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
Kiwi Camping Rover Lite 3cm Self-Inflating Mat $109.00
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Sea to Summit Camp Kitchen Tool Kit 10 Piece $69.99
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
red paddle sport range $2199.95 - $2499.95
WWW.RED.EQUIPMENT
Kiwi Camping Folding Trolley $269.00
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Exped Black Ice 45 Pack $339.99
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//55

usiness
on a mission
Red Paddle Co’s mission is to inspire
and enable adventure through innovative,
environmentally responsible products
that Never Compromise on performance,
safety and reliability.
Since the humble beginnings back in
2008, Red Paddle Co have developed and
were responsible for the global adoption of
SUP. This new breed of board is easier to
transport and store, allowed access to new
waterways and offered a greater durability
than their harder counterparts.
Red’s eco-directive sits at the heart of
production creation, nothing goes into
production without thorough testing
and research to ensure longevity and
sustainability. The board factory is zero
waste and almost all the packaging is
100% recyclable or compostable, or soon
will be.
Innovation is at the core and TEC AIR is
Red Paddle Co’s promise to never stop
perfecting, developing, and innovating
only the very best boards. Red Paddle
Co have spent over 14 years learning,
refining, and testing new techniques to
tailor precise performance and consistent
characteristics into their boards.
A Red Paddle Co board is a tough nut
to crack. Substantially stronger than
its hard board cousins and any other
inflatable SUPs on the market, a Red
Paddle Co board has a much more
robust construction and design ensuring
the safety of the paddler when out on
the water. The unique technologies and
techniques when building the board are
patent protected and a closely guarded
secret - so you won’t find this strength and
resilience in any other boards.
What makes Red different
• Pioneers in the SUP industry since 2008;
the longest standing SUP network in the
world
• True to our core - everything created is
designed in house
• Built to last
• Pressure – well-designed and easy to
inflate to the correct PSI.
• Unrivalled performance
• Guarantee – an extended 5-year
warranty once your new board is
registered with Red Paddle Co
• Experts in design – Tec Air technology,
MSL, V-Hull, Speed Tail, Forward Flex
Control
Ride range
The all-round Ride range of boards are a
great option for beginners but equally as
fun and versatile for more experienced
paddlers looking for easy-access, allround
adventures. The Ride boards are
incredibly tough and stable, performing
well in a variety of conditions and
waterways. Available in a range of sizes
from 10’ 0” to 10’ 8”.
Compact range
The Red Paddle Co Compact Board is
half the size to carry and store but double
the fun. The Compact boards fold out
to full size SUPs, providing unlimited
opportunities for adventure. All Compact
boards come fitted with a comfortable
carry handle, adjustable cargo system and
removable click fin system to allow the
ultimate ‘packability’ of the board and are
available in three sizes: the 8’ 10“, 9’ 6”,
11’ 0” and 12’ 0”.
Voyager range
If you’re heading off on a multi-day trip
or are just looking to go a bit further with
a heap of gear, these are the boards for
you. Its increased length and thickness
compared to an all-round board make it
an ideal board for cruising through longer
outings, and our patented RSS system
offers unrivalled stiffness. Available in 12’
0” and 12’ 6”.
Sport range
Built for speed and performance, the Red
Sport inflatable paddle boards sleek shape
and the drawn-out nose gives maximum
glide across the water, meaning you can
paddle further for longer. Available sizes
are 12’ 0”, 12’ 6” and the Voyager Plus in
13’ 2”.
“You haven’t tried paddleboarding until you
have tried a Red”
Available throughout NZ from certified Red
Paddle Co retailers.
www.red.equipment/pages/find-a-shop
56//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

Red Waterproof Cool Bag 18 & 30L
18 Litres $349.95 – 30 Litres $379.95
With thermal lock insulation and Armour
Tech fabric, drinks stay colder for longer,
keeps water out, ice frozen for up to 72
hours and a tension system secures the
bag to your board.
WWW.RED.EQUIPMENT
Red Paddle Co Ride Range $1,899.95 - $2,199.95
If you’re looking for a versatile board that will
perform in all conditions, then look no further than
the Ride Inflatable SUP Range from Red Paddle
Co. A popular inflatable SUP for all the family, these
boards are designed for all-round use – whether
you enjoy the thrill of paddling in the surf, or the
tranquillity of calm lakes.
WWW.RED.EQUIPMENT
Red Paddle Co Sport Range $2,199.95 - $2,499.95
For paddlers who are looking for speed and
performance, the Sport Inflatable SUP Range offers a
step up from the Ride family - available in a choice of
colours….purple or classic blue. Imagine how excited
you'll feel unrolling your new board in anticipation of
enjoying the open water.
WWW.RED.EQUIPMENT
Red Pro Change Robe Evo $349.95
Uniquely breathable with the softest lining,
moisture wicking and super warm yet
lightweight providing maximum warmth
whilst outdoors, this premium robe
ensures users stay dry and warm.
WWW.RED.EQUIPMENT
Red Waterproof Kit Bag 40 & 60L
40 Litres $299.95 – 60 Litres $349.95
A waterproof duffel and backpack,
with stitched and taped seams,
heavy-duty straps and pockets
made from strong rip stock material
that is abrasion resistant.
WWW.RED.EQUIPMENT
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//57

osprey Sportlite 25 $199.99
Confidently step out on the trail with the
Sportlite 25, one of our most minimalist
technical day packs. Carry all of your
essentials with the convenience of panelloading
design and simple, clean internal
organization. An AirScape® backpanel
and suspension system moves with you
dynamically and keeps your carry stable
and ventilated. Made with 100% recycled
materials. Two size unisex fit.
• Trekking pole loops w/ upper compression
strap capture
• Stretch side water bottle pockets
• Padded hipbelt with one zippered pocket
and one open stretch mesh pocket
Find a Stockist:
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
cotopaxi Allpa Travel Packs $349.99 - $499.99
Intuitively designed, Allpa Travel Packs make it easy to
stay organised on impromptu roadies and international
adventures. Available in 42L, 35L & 28L volumes.
WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ
cotopaxi Bataan 3L Hip Pack – Del Día $69.99
This Hip Pack keeps necessities
secure, organised, and close at hand.
Our Del Día collection utilises off-cut
material, making no two Bataans alike.
WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ
exped radical 45 Gear Bag $199.90
Quickly converts from backpack to
duffel, has padded straps, an extralong
zip to the main compartment,
compression straps, side zip for
additional access when on the go and
attachment loops. Manufactured from
recycled materials.
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
exped Ice 45 Pack $339.99
Minimalist, lightweight roll-top pack,
ideal for the mountains. Features
a high-quality, waterproof ripstop
nylon, a white inner for more easily
seeing your gear inside, a slim,
removable padded back for a closeto-body
fit and stability, a removable
hip-belt and a weatherproof front
pocket. 820g (660g stripped weight)
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Lowe alpine Aeon 22L Backpack $249.95
The Aeon 22L backpack made with
lightweight, tough TriShield fabric
features top-loading main entry, lid/
front/side stretch pockets, walking
pole attachments, ice axe loops
and hydration compatibility.
WWW.OUTFITTERSSTORE.NZ
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Warthog Classic II Elite Sharpener $199.00
3 Adjustable Angles(20,25 & 30), 325
Grit Natural Diamond Rods, Metal Frame
Construction, Durable Powdercoat Finish,
Finishing Steels.
WWW.KNIFESHARPNERS.NZ
Garmin - In Reach $549.00 (NZD)
inReach satellite technology and a satellite
subscription, you can stay in touch globally.
You can send and receive messages,
navigate your route, track and share your
journey and, if necessary, trigger an SOS
to get help from a 24/7 global emergency
response coordination centre via the 100%
global Iridium® satellite network.
WWW.GARMIN.COM/EN-NZ/P/793265
equip
yourself!
sunsaver classic 16,000 mah solar power bank $119.00
Built tough for the outdoors and with a massive
battery capacity you can keep all your devices
charged no matter where your adventure
takes you.
WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ
Komperdell Carbon C3 Pro Compact Trekking Pole $139.99
3-section ultralight, length-adjustable trekking
pole with an expanded grip zone that is fantastic
on steep terrain. Carbon upper sections and a
Titanal.HF lower shaft, durable external locking
mechanisms. Changeable basket and a tungsten/
carbide tip. 90cm-120cm. 201g
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
rescueme PLB1 $589.98
Wherever you are, at sea, on land,
the rescueME PLB1 provides the
reassurance that global emergency
services can be alerted by the press of
a button.
The rescueMe PLB1 can be operated
with a single hand in even the most
challenging situations. A simple springloaded
flap covers the activation button
preventing inadvertent use. rescueME
PLB1 works with the only officially
recognised worldwide dedicated search
and rescue satellite network (operated
by Cospas Sarsat). As this is funded by
governments there are NO CHARGES
to use this service.
Available through all leading sports and
recreation retailers and online.
WWW.RESCUEME.CO.NZ
Low Prices Everyday
Free NZ Shipping on
orders over $150 for
members
Members Earn Equip+
Loyalty Points
shop online or instore
equipoutdoors.co.nz
62 Killarney Road,
Frankton, Hamilton,
New Zealand
P: 0800 22 67 68
E: sales@equipoutdoors.co.nz

Kiwi Camping Folding Trolley $269.00
The perfect accessory for lovers of the outdoors.
Easily move your tent, camping gear and mount
your chilly when too heavy to carry.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
sea to summit Drylite Towel XXL $69.99
When comfort, weight and packed size matters, the Drylite
Towel is perfect. Made from a luxuriously soft microfiber
fabric with a 'ultrasuede' finish, this towel is super absorbent
and quick drying - plus it packs down small.
• Made of 80% recycled polyester, 20% nylon
• Very packable- it's lighter and more compact than our Tek
Towel
• Hang loop with press stud
• Mesh-faced storage pouch
• Machine washable
Find a Stockist: WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
kiwi camping boost lED light with Powerbank $89.99
Bright LED light with power bank to illuminate
your tent and charge devices on the go.
Features 11 light modes including SOS
signal, built-in magnets and hanging hook.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
sea to summit Camp Kitchen Tool Kit 10 Piece $69.99
Hang this compact kit in your camp kitchen and you'll
have most things you need on hand to create - and
clean up after - gourmet outdoor meals. The kit contains
everything from empty leakproof bottles for oils and
condiments, to a folding spatula and serving spoon, to a
pot scrubber, washcloth and dishcloth.
Find a Stockist: WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
kiwi camping Flexi Light Strip White/Orange $79.99
A 1.3m long LED strip fitted with white/
orange LED lights to illuminate your tent
and deter bugs and insects. IP65-waterresistant
and includes carry bag.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Chair Zero High-back $299.99
With a taller back for added support and
comfort, the Chair Zero High-back has the
same DNA as Chair Zero, an ultralight,
compact, go-anywhere chair. The Chair Zero
High-Back is a good choice for activities
where weight saving is top of mind, such as
backpacking, kayak tours, moto-touring or
bikepacking.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
Jetboil stash $299.95
The Lightest and Most Compact
Jetboil Ever. We know your
dreams are big and ambitious.
Which is why we designed the
all-new Stash to be lightweight
and compact, maximizing your
pack space without sacrificing
that iconic Jetboil performance.
At 7.1 oz or 200 g, the .8L Stash
is 40% lighter than the .8L Zip.
WWW.JETBOILNZ.CO.NZ
OOahh Recovery Slides – Men’s & Women’s $99.99
When you slide on a pair of lightweight
OOFOS you will instantly feel the support
and comfort your joints and muscles are
needing after adventures.
WWW.OOFOS.CO.NZ

merrell Hydro Moc Elements - Air $109.00
Built with the outdoors in mind, the Hydro Moc
has taken the world by storm. To continue the
excitement the limited edition Hydro Moc Elements
is inspired by the 4 basic elements. Using
advanced construction techniques, this easy on
/ easy off shoe is more durable than others of its
kind–for days spent in and around water.
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
Rumpl Everywhere Towels $89.99
Designed to repel sand, odour, and stains - our
Everywhere Towels are also lightweight, packable, and
quick drying – making them an essential piece of gear.
WWW.RUMPL.CO.NZ
hydro flask 18L Soft Cooler Tote & 20L Soft Cooler Back Pack
$419.99-$499.99
Our Day Escape Bags are designed to deliver
36-hours of cold insulation in a lightweight, leakproof
and durable construction. We’re here to fuel your
adventure.
WWW.HYDROFLASK.CO.NZ

Merrell Hydro Runner - Men’s $179.00
Built with an EVA shell and breathable mesh upper for a
lightweight and flexible fit, the Hydro Runner is a perfect
choice for staying cool on busy days. Merrell sticky rubber
outsole with durable traction that grips when and where
you need it, you can look good without slowing down.
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 $329.90
The Alp Trainer 2 is a low-cut alpine hiking and trekking shoe built for
enhanced performance and control in a wide spectrum of mountain
terrain. Its high-quality, thick suede leather upper ensures good comfort
and protection and is further reinforced with a full 360° rubber rand to see
off rock and scree. The Vibram® Alpine Hiking outsole excels in wet and
muddy conditions thanks to its dedicated climbing, traction, braking zones
and aggressive lug pattern.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 450 g (W) 350 g (pictured)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
SALEWA WILDFIRE 2 $329.90
Engineered for technical terrain, the Wildfire 2 is a lightweight, agile and
precise tech approach shoe with a breathable recycled synthetic mesh
upper, and a 360° protective rand. It’s equipped with climbing lacing for
fine adjustment in the toe-area and a lateral net system with Kevlar®
cables for better overall performance and sensitivity. The POMOCA®
outsole with Butylic compound rubber is designed for precision and
sensitivity in mixed mountain terrain and ensures good grip on rock in both
wet and dry conditions.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 355 g (Pictured) (W) 305 g
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
SALEWA WILDFIRE CANVAS $279.90
The breathable recycled cotton and hemp canvas upper is protected
by a full 360° TPU rand. Our 3F system with nylon-coated Kevlar®
cables provides additional support and greater stability at the heel,
while ensuring a precise fit. The dual density ECO Ortholite® footbed
promotes superior cushioning, and the Pomoca outsole offers secure
grip during light hiking and approach activities.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 305 g (W) 256 g (pictured)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER 2 MID GTX $459.90
The next generation of our men’s bestselling, robust and reliable alpine
trekking boot. This hard-wearing suede leather classic with a 360° full
protective rubber rand is even lighter and more flexible. Equipped with a
waterproof, breathable GORE-TEX® Performance Comfort membrane, a
dual density expanded PU midsole, and the self-cleaning Vibram® WTC
2 outsole is engineered for improved grip and traction in a wide range of
conditions. Weight (M) 600 g (W) 470 g (Due AW23)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
GLERUPS HONEY RUBBER AND BLACK RUBBER SHOE $189.00
When you are camping, you need a shoe that is good on
all surfaces including inside the tent or the hut.
Made from 100% natural wool, glerups provides an
instant comfy at home feeling. They are light, versatile,
and well worth the space in your backpack.
Get natural, get cosy and get yourself some glerups.
WWW.GLERUPS.CO.NZ
62//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

Go against the flow.
Our amphibious outcast is water friendly and friendly to water.
Transforming polluted water and air with BLOOM EVA,
a performance foam that uses 10% recycled algae biomass.
Available in many colours for Men, Women and Kid’s.
merrell.co.nz

ONE FOR THE ROAD - proceed with caution amber
ale $7.95
This all season medium-bodied lager
showcases both malt and hops. It follows
with a toasty malt character with only a
subtle hop bitterness.

BACK COUNTRY CUISINE:
The first thing you’ll notice is that the front
label on their pouches have changed for the
better by adding Health Star Ratings and
energy, protein, fat and carbs per pouch. They
have also improved the readability of our
back labels.Back Country Cuisine is available
at leading retailers. For more information
or to find your nearest stockist visit: www.
backcountrycuisine.co.nz
Apple & Berry Crumble $13.99
A sweet mix of freeze dried apples and
berries topped with a delicious gluten
free cookie crumb.
3 Health Stars - Gluten Free
WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
tasty chicken mash $9.99 - $14.99
With smoky flavoured freeze dried chicken,
cheese and vegetables.
3.5 Health Stars - Gluten Free
Available small serve (90g) or regular
(175g)
WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
INSTANT PASTA $4.99
Just add boiling water for perfectly cooked
pasta.
3.5 Health Stars
Sizes – Family 120g
WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
local dehy kumAra chickpea curry
$17.50
Mildly spiced Indian curry
with spinach & brown rice.
Refuel after a day's adventure!
Dehydrated. Vegan. Home
compostable packaging.
WWW.LOCALDEHY.CO.NZ
local dehy hummus $8.00
Roasted Red Pepper & Sundried
Tomato, also available in
Beetroot and Zesty Lemon.
Perfect for lunches on the trail.
Dehydrated. Vegan. Home
compostable packaging.
WWW.LOCALDEHY.CO.NZ

Rab Alpine 600 Sleeping Bag $699.95 - $759.95
A mid-weight, 650FP three season,
duck down bag with a tough and wind
resistant Pertex® Quantam outer
with recycled nylon lining designed to
maximise warmth.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
kiwi camping Rover Lite 3cm Self-Inflating Mat $109.00
Compact to pack and carry, the Rover Lite selfinflates
in minutes. The tapered design can fit in
a sleeping bag, 1830mm long and 550mm wide.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
exped ULTRA Duo 3R Sleeping Mat (medium) $449.99
Lightweight, packable mat for two with
light insulation. Features include two
independent sides to customise the mat
for each sleeper, a tapered shape to shave
weight and bulk, a recycled 20D ripstop
face fabric, 60gm/2 Texpedloft microfibre
insulation and 7cm-thick chambers with
fatter chambers at the sides to reduce the
chance of you rolling off. Certified carbon
neutral by myclimate. R-value 2.9. 830g
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Klymit Insulated Static V $229.95
The Insulated Static V packs light and small,
has a 4.4 R-value, body-mapped shape and V
chamber design for comfort, lofty Klymalite
insulation, and side rails.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
kiwi camping Mamaku Camper +5°C Sleeping Bag $94.99
Packed full of features, the Kiwi Camping
Mamaku Camper is a great value-for-money
sleeping bag. Ideal for summer and packs
down small for lightweight adventures.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
kiwi camping Tuatara 270° 2M Self-
Supporting Awning $999.00
Set up in under 1-minute,
the Tuatara 270° 2.0m Self-
Supporting Awning mounts to
your existing roof racks to open
out on the passenger side of
your vehicle.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
66//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

Patagonia Hydrolock Boardshorts $169.99
Developed and tested to perform in the
world’s best waves. These lightweight,
high-performance boardies feature
streamlined four-way stretch, recycled
polyester and a contoured waistband
designed to keep your trunks in place
even when the surf’s as heavy as it gets.
Fair Trade Certified sewn.
WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ
Patagonia Fair Trade RØ® Top $69.99
These surf tops are made with light,
fast-drying NetPlus® 84% postconsumer
recycled nylon (made from recycled fishing
nets to help reduce ocean plastic pollution)
and 16% spandex. Excellent protection
from sun and wind, plus next-to-skin
comfort while paddling. M's and W's styles.
WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ
merrell Scout Hoody - Women’s $209.00
Get comfy in the Scout Hoody.
Designed with organic and recycled
materials that will make you feel
good about feeling good. Washing
garment results in a unique vintage
looking colour every time.
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
Chickfly Bamboo Leggings High Rise
or Low Rise (USD $119.00)
Chickfly leggings are made
with soft, strong, stretchy
and sustainable bamboo
fabric, coloured with organic
dyes. Our patented fly is held
together by tension, creating
a seamless, flattering, soft,
and easy-to-use feature in the
most comfortable and stylish
black legging that every
woman needs not only for
style but for convenience and
functionality.
WWW.CHICKFLY.COM
cotopaxi Capa Insulated Jacket –
Men’s & Women’s $419.99
Made with the new Gold
P.U.R.E insulation from
PrimaLoft® and 100%
Recycled Nylon Shell. This
Jacket is a performance
layer, designed to be worn
all-year-round.
WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ
merrell Hayes Jogger - Men’s $199.00
Meet the Hayes Jogger pant.
Made with 95% recycled nylon,
2-way stretch and PFC free
Durable Water Repellency
(DWR) finish for wind and water
resistance. these are your easyto-wear,
do anything joggers.
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
68//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

make it a clear headed summer with clear head drinks!
NZ’s non-alcoholic drinks SUPERSTORE
Think beyond juice
and soft drinks...
Serve your guests
an amazing range
of wines, beers,
RTDs and mixers…
All deliciously
refreshing, and all
non-alcoholic.
Great range,
great prices,
let’s celebrate!
Stock up at Clear Head Drinks, and make sure you’ve got the best
selection of drinks at your festive party or summer barbecue.
www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz

Winter boots are notoriously boring – not Fubuki
Surprisingly, each pair of
FUBUKI boots only weighs
around 1200grams, which
is super lightweight and
makes walking extremely
easy regardless of the
conditions; combined with
shock-absorbing heels
and a non-slip sole for
ice and slippery underfoot, FUBUKI makes for the perfect winter
footwear. These boots are made for walking. Add in the fact that
they are 100% waterproof; snow, slush, mud, and water, on a boat,
at work, on the ski field, or just keeping your feet warm at home,
FUBUKI is setting a unique standard of craftsmanship, design and
style. They come in both a high leg Niseko 2.0 and a boot format
Niseko 2.0 low.
FEATURED PRODUCTS...
"FUBUKI was designed as an alternative for
the snow-loving community. Skiers have long
been irreverent nonconformists. Lovers of
FUBUKI around the globe continue to shape
and cultivate a culture around the colourful
boots—one that’s fluid, unconventional,
and celebrates personal expression and
interpretation.
Occasionally a product comes along that does exactly
what it says it will and then more. FUBUKI, which
means snowstorm in Japanese, is from Sweden. In
Sweden, where it can get as low as -30, being that
close to the arctic circle, they know cold, snow, ice
and how to keep warm.
Get them at fubukiboots.com
In a world where tough and resistant
so often means rigid and boring,
FUBUKI represents an off-piste path
for those who confidently carve their
own tracks on winter’s blank canvas.”
NORSK and a new era in ice boxes
There are a lot of chilly bins for sale in the market... But they
are not all made equal.
The price point of Norsk sets it apart from others in the market
at over $200 cheaper than its rivals, however, Norsk does
not compromise quality, style, and engineering. At $299,
the 45-litre box is exceptionally robust; I even used it as a
ladder to access my car roof box. Norsk box is solid, virtually
indestructible and will not negatively react in the sun as it is UV
resistant. But the Norske is not just a great ladder and a seat,
its real use is to keep things cold, and it does that well.
The pressure-injected polyurethane foam creates a sealed
environment that keeps stuff cold for extended periods of
time. We evaluated the Norsk by putting a single frozen pack
of squid in the box, sealing it
and only opening the chest
twice a day to look. The
product stayed frozen solid
until day four! And even after
that only defrosted slowly.
The freezer box is sealed with
a silicone gasket that keeps
cold in and heat out. There is
a simple draining system as
well, which makes it easy to
flush the defrosting ice.
The stunning 45-litre box
The box weighs around 9kgs, it is 34cm high and 42cm wide
and 65cm long. It has easy-to-use handles that are part of the
box moulding and an additional rope handle for easy lifting.
Norsk has thought outside the box; excuse the pun. and added
non-slip feet, which in a car or on a boat is a real asset, there
is a locking option in the lid and robust rubber clips to keep the
top locked down.
Inside the box, there is a carry cage which sits on the rim and
is excellent for keeping things separate. For further division,
there is a wall divider in the middle of the box, which is
removable (this also doubles as a chopping board).
It feels as if we have been waiting for this affordable freezer
box to come along, and now it’s finally here – summer is going
to be a lot more fun. We evaluated the 45-liter box, but Norsk
also comes as a 12-litre, 65-litre, 85-litre and the big daddy
120-litre.
You can see them all at www.norsk.co.nz (online purchases
are available)
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//71

FEED YOUR ADDICTION
Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and
development in online stores over the past 5 years.
We are dedicating these pages to our client’s online stores; some
you will be able to buy from, some you will be able drool over. Buy,
compare, research and prepare, these online stores are a great way to
feed your adventure addiction.
Never have a dead phone
again! Because now you can
charge straight from the Sun
with SunSaver. Perfect for
that week-long hike, day at
the beach, or back-up for any
emergency. Check us out at:
www.sunsaver.co.nz
Building versatile and reliable gear so you
can adventure with purpose.
www.keaoutdoors.com
Temerature. Taste. Transport.
Hydroflask, more than just a water bottle.
www.hydroflask.co.nz
Our mission is to produce
the best quality beers
possible across a range of
flavours and styles and to
have fun doing it!
www.dcbrewing.co.nz
Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional
outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.
www.patagonia.co.nz
Stocking an extensive range
of global outdoor adventure
brands for your next big
adventure. See them for travel,
tramping, trekking, alpine and
lifestyle clothing and gear.
www.outfittersstore.nz
Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,
Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,
Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.
www.equipoutdoors.co.nz
Our very own online store where
you will find hard goods to keep you
equipped for any adventure.
www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz
www.lightandfast.co.nz

Zerofit is a range of base layers
and lifestyle clothing straight
out of science fiction.
Using your body movement, it
keeps you warm and improves
your performance.
www.zerofit.com.au
Meals bursting with flavour, combined with home compostable
packaging, means you really can have it all in the mountains.
Designed by ‘foodies’ for maximum plant-based deliciousness
and wrapped in earth positive, lightweight, packable pouches.
www.localdehy.co.nz
Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor
clothing, footwear and equipment from the best
brands across New Zealand & the globe.
www.bivouac.co.nz
Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel
& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &
casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.
www.merrell.co.nz
Norsk designs and builds ice coolers that without fail,
will not fail. Perfect for your hard out adventures.
Free shipping within New Zealand.
www.norsk.co.nz
Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment
specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place
for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents,
outdoor clothing and more.
www.livingsimply.co.nz
www.glerups.co.nz
glerups shoes, slippers
and boots are known for
their exceptional comfort
and unique design.
Over the years we have
perfected the wool mix
by blending Gotland
wool with quality wool
from New Zealand
farmers.
Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.
www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz
Sustainably designed outdoor gear that fuels both
adventure and global change, by dedicating a
percentage of revenues to nonprofits working to improve
the human condition. www.cotopaxi.com
Supplying tents and
camping gear to Kiwis
for over 30 years, Kiwi
Camping are proud to
be recognised as one of
the most trusted outdoor
brands in New Zealand.
www.kiwicamping.co.nz
With stores in Clyde and
Cromwell, Bike it Now! is
your access point to the
Central Otago Bike trials: T
> Lake Dunstan Trail
> Otago Central Rail Trail
> Roxbourgh Gorge
and more...
New Zealand’s first online
store solely dedicated to
Non Alcoholic adult drinks.
www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz
www.bikeitnow.co.nz

t r a v e l
Satuiatua
Lagoon
Sunday was interrupted by an unwelcome
call from my cycle guide Uilau “The Satuiatua
Beach Fales kitchen and dining room have just
burnt down.” Before I could fully digest the
news, Uilau added “everyone is OK – but what
do you want to do with our guests arriving there
on Thursday?”
Located on the south coast of Savaii, Samoa,
Satuiatua is the only lagoon for 40 kms in
either direction and a key stop for cyclists. The
fales are nestled under giant banyan trees,
that shade the entire resort and steadily drop
tiny, nut-like figs onto the tin roofs of the fales.
The dining room balcony was a great place to
sit and watch the tell-tale spouts of migrating
whales in September, while the marine reserve
in the lagoon beside the fales provided an
excellent drift snorkel through the coral and
dense schools of tropical fish. The full drift is
not for everyone, and it only works near high
tide. Less than a month ago we had swum this,
being pulled steadily by the current through the
small canyons of coral. Gradually the canyons
shallow out and the last part of the snorkel is
in two feet of water. Here we surprised a turtle
and were able to swim quietly right up to it while
it feasted on vegetation deep in a hole in the
coral. I grabbed the shell to check it wasn’t
stuck, and it quickly flippered away. If asked,
Uilau loves to show guests the reef by night.
Night spearfishing is popular in Samoa and
while he wont take his spear, his experience lets
you discover the reef nightlife.
Most of the beach fale resorts are owned by
men and effectively run by women. Satuiatua
is the exception, owned and run by Leilua
Tutoga Mailei, a powerful matriarch and matai
(Chief) in her own right she is a woman not to
be messed with. She started the resort 27 years
ago on family land and has gradually extended
the range of accommodation to include airconditioned
motel rooms. But I still prefer the
thatched fales on the beach. There is still
something special about lying under a mosquito
net and listening to the gentle waves on the
shore just three metres away.
74//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

Soon after a close shave with a rogue wave at Alofaaga blowholes near Taga.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//75

Clockwise from top left: Staghorn coral at Satuiatua. / Relaxing in a beach fale after a day's riding.
Satuiatua Beach Fales under the banyan trees / Cooling off at Afu Aau falls
I think about how Lelua will be feeling about the fire as I
contemplate what we will do. “We will do nothing today. Let’s
let Lelua have a day to absorb the loss and mentally recover.
We have time to change bookings later if we have to.” The easy
thing is to skip the next day’s riding, but I am very reluctant as it
is a unique day.
The first stop on this days riding is usually at the Taga
Blowholes. More spectacular and reliable than Punakaki on the
West Coast of the South Island, they are a little-known wonder.
From a vaguely signposted corner, the 4WD track meanders
down to the coast and along the shore to a black lava plateau
about 5 metres above the sea. When molten lava contacts
the sea the rapid cooling causes it to explode, creating vertical,
fissure-ridden cliffs. The constant action from the unrelenting
southerly swells has widened the fissures and spouts of water
are forced up to 40m in the air. There is usually a local there
who, for a small tip, will throw a coconut into the hole, timing it
just right for the coconut to ride the top of the spout.
When the seas are small, everything is entirely predictable and
there is a temptation to toss your own coconuts. As I discovered,
this can be a lot more dangerous than expected. The rocks are
wet and slippery, and in big seas, rogue waves will crash across
the plateau and sweep it clear of everything. Once caught by
a wave that was fortunately only knee deep, I struggled to stay
upright in the fast moving water as it surged towards my camera
gear lying on the rocks at the base of the bank, 100m from the
cliff edge. Fortunately a more cautious cyclist grabbed my bag
moments before the water arrived. And even more fortunately, I
kept my balance to tell the tale.
The second treat of this day is the Afu Aau falls. Coming at the
end of 40kms of often hot riding, they are a welcome chance to
freshen up with a dive into the clear, cold pool. Whether your
entry is via a sedate walk into the pool or a dive from one of
the high rock ledges is a personal choice, but its worth taking
the time to snorkel around the edges. Here clinging to the rock
walls are koura – freshwater crawlies. The initial trepidation at
sharing the pool with so many small sharp nippers soon passes
as I study them in their natural habitat.
This day usually finishes at Florences’ homestay. Here Ruth
and Kelvin have been reclaiming her family’s old Copra estate,
experimenting with new crops and new growing techniques.
Ruth is a superb cook with an appreciation of fine wine, while
Kelvin (amongst many things) is a butcher from Taumaranui.
They have a raft of stories that put Barry Crump to shame and
are always delighted to share them.
While I am contemplating how we might manage without
Satuiatua, I get the message I have been hoping for. The beach
fales are all still fine and Leilua will host everyone for meals
in her home until they can rebuild. Having been treated to a
Sunday Toana’i (traditional Samoan umu lunch) at her home, I
know she will do it well.
And now, within four days of the fire, there is a full rebuild plan
underway. It won’t be quite the same for the next few months,
but the hospitality may more than makeup for the lack of meals
on the balcony, watching the whales.
Contact Ross and Frances at: office@outdoor.co.nz to organise a custom tour or to join a group.www.outdoorsamoa.com
76//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

Beautiful Samoa awaits you, and we are welcoming our international aiga
with open arms! Experience Samoa’s untouched beauty, unique cultural
experiences and rich heritage. Self drive, bike or stroll through the wonders
that make this island life one to cherish just like the locals do.

Cook Islands.
Lonely Planet’s top place to visit in 2022
Float above the world’s bluest blue
OVERWATER HEAVEN

t r a v e l
Malekula
Island
Malekula is one of the most culturally diverse islands in Vanuatu,
riddled with secret cannibal sites, surrounded by glassy reefs and
home to the gentle giant of the sea: the dugong.
There are over 30 languages spoken on the small island of
Malekula. With a population of only 25,000 and different cultural
practices affiliated with each language and village, Malekula is
sure to delight at every turn.
Sit and listen to the stories from the village Chiefs and ask how
their practices differ from their neighbouring villages. Assume
nothing and greet Malekula with an open heart, you won’t be
disappointed.
TOP ATTRACTIONS:
Snorkelling with Dugongs
Pull on your flippers and masks, the gentle sea cows are nearby
and they’re happy to share their reefs with you. Weighing up
to 400kg and growing up to 3m long, these mysterious sea
mammals are the only living representative of the Dugongidae
family.
Dugongs are strictly herbivores, so you’re not at any risk of a
nibble. Your best chances of seeing them is on the Gaspard Bay
Dugong Tour. Your guides won’t rest until they find them!
Big Nambas
In ancient times, the Big Nambas Chiefs (differentiated from the
Small Nambas by the size of their penis sheath) had several
wives. They had an ongoing rivalry with the Small Nambas that
lasted hundreds of years.
The Big Nambas are located in the north and accessible from
the capital Lakatoro. You will need to book a tour with your host
and they will be able to arrange transport. The Big Nambas will
prepare a cultural experience for you including dance, magic
and followed with a small ‘storian’ (discussion and chat) and
refreshments.
Losinwei Waterfall
It’s a short and easy hour-and-a-half walk from the Lakatoro area
alongside a river to the Losinwei Cascades, and you’ll have your
jaw agape the entire time. As the light bursts forth from between
the trees, the plunge pools glow every shade of blue and green,
reflecting the colour of the leaves and forest undergrowth. Your
shoes will be drenched by the time you reach the cascades, so
make sure you’re wearing hiking sandals or sturdy waterproof
boots. Cool off under the waterfall and follow the lead of the
guides joining you as they flip off different platforms with huge
smiles on their faces.
80//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

Losinwei Cascades - Image by Ben Savage
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//81

The Small Nambas Tribe of Malekula Island
Small Nambas
It’ll take you five hours in the back of a ute over volcanic soil
and through window-deep rivers to get to the Small Nambas
on Malekula Island. You’ll be dodging branches, chatting
to locals as they hitch a ride from one village to another
and laughing and high fiving children who try to keep up by
running alongside the car.
The Small Nambas don’t participate in any cultural festivals
outside their village, so you can only witness their dances
and experience their culture by going there yourself. You’ll be
welcomed by the village Chief who, after a series of cultural
dances, will have food prepared and served in his home.
Communities of South Central Malekula are where the Small
Nambas tribes can be found. Having retained their traditions
for many centuries it is an opportunity not to be missed and
experienced.
"The Small Nambas don’t
participate in any cultural
festivals outside their
village, so you can only
witness their dances and
experience their culture by
going there yourself."
Nawut Bungalows
The Nawut Bungalows are located right on the waterfront of
Uri Island, a short boat ride from Malekula. They’re complete
with 24-hour solar electricity, flushable toilets and laundry
service. If you’re doing the Gaspard Bay Dugong Tour this is
the best place to stay because you’ll be able to head straight
out to dugong territory. The coastline is also home to turtles,
dolphins and giant clams, so get your underwater camera
ready!
A few other ideas:
While on Malekula, if you have the chance, make your way
to the cultural centre of Lakatoro. There’s a small museum
up the hill there. If you catch the staff and it’s open, you won’t
be disappointed! You’ll also find the Malampa Handicraft
Center next to the main market in Lakatoro. This woman’s
business centre, packed with hand-woven baskets and rare
island treats is a must see.
Nawut Bungalows are located right on the waterfront
For more information on travelling to Vanuatu:
www.vanuatu.travel/nz
82//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

9.30am Mt Yasur on Tanna Island
Hiking Diving Culture
Volcanos
Go explore at vanuatu.travel

t r a v e l
A week in
Paradise
Words and Images by Steve Dickinson and Greg Knell
When you think of Tahiti, it conjures up the quintessential
South Pacific paradise; white sand beaches, crystal
clear water, blue skies, cocktails by the pool and
beautiful women swaying their hips with a flower in their
hair. Sure, Tahiti and her islands has all that, but there is
so much more!
Our stunning home from Tahiti Yacht Chaters
We were there to watch the Hawaiki Nui, which is a
canoe race from one stunning island to the next, over
128 km long, divided into three legs, between the
Leeward Islands (Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa and Bora
Bora). The race is done in a vaá, an outrigger canoe,
with six people in each boat; there are no crew changes
on the water, it’s a marine marathon. The Hawaiki Nui
attracts each year hundreds of canoe racers coming
from all over French Polynesia but also from Hawaii,
Europe even Japan. They compete for 3 days over
distances that vary from 25km to 60km, depending on
which leg of the race.
In 1992, the Hawaiki Nui came from one persons idea,
his name was Edouard Maamaatuaiahutapu, and he
wanted to create an event to showcase the islands
where he lived. This race was developed along simple
criteria: to be as prestigious as the Moloka’I Hoe race in
Hawaii and to be far more arduous.
The Hawaiki Nui is not really for tourists; it’s for the
locals; of course, anyone can watch; it is like the Super
Bowl of vaá- outrigger racing; there are hundreds of
boats and hundreds of support teams and hundreds of
people watching. On the open water, that multitude is
spread out with vaá and boats as far as you can see in
every direction, big ones, small ones, from super yachts
to tiny tinnies and every man and his dog (literally) is
either in the competition, supporting or watching.
The start of every race is this mad rush to get the best postition
84//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//85

The art of Va'a surfing
Like I said, on the open seas, it’s OK that they are all spread out,
but in the lagoon, which at times is only 2-300 meters across, the
confusion and compression of all those boats and all those va’as
creates chaos. I do think if it were anywhere else in the world
there would be litigation, shootings and sinking, but because it is
in Tahiti, everyone is pretty laid back, and even though there is
the constant possibility of multi-million boat boats colliding, no one
really gets too stressed.
This year the first leg from Huahine to Raiatea was rough, wet
and windy with solid swell and poor visibility, not more than 300
meters; how the crews of vaá knew where to go was beyond me,
but through wind and rain and massive swells, they powered on.
It is impressive to watch not only them punching through major
swell but catching waves and surfing them.
The arrival at each island, the finish, is met by the locals going
full noise; there are screams and water splashing, palms waving,
and flowers were thrown, and although there is real pressure to
win, every single canoe gets welcomed home and because it is so
arduous that even finishing is treated like a significant win whether
you are first or last.
The final leg is from Taha’a to Bora Bora. Bora Bora is legendary
for its beauty; the white sand and shallow lagoon create this
amazing blue-clear water that looks like an extension of the sky.
The lagoon would be at least a kilometer across and it is full of
boats and people all partying, celebrating, playing music, people
dancing and welcoming the vaá with garlands of flowers. It’s a
competition, but it reflects so much a Polynesian way of being,
everyone is happy, everyone is smiling it just simply a feel-good
experience.
While following the Hawaiki Nui we spent some of the nights not
in a hotel but aboard a stunning catamaran from Tahiti Yacht
Charter |. There is no better way to watch the sun go down and
then to wake up to the oil-like water that is in the lagoon; you go
to sleep in your stunning double bedroom with your own shower
and bathroom, it is not like being on a boat at all. Not only was
the catamaran amazing it came with a chef, the talented Tamata,
who each day we would ask what is for dinner and she would
always say, it’s a surprise, and it was – the food was fresh and
mostly fish (at our request) , cooked, raw, whatever, it was always
spectacular.
The joy and relief of simply finishing
86//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

Going through the pass at Taha'a - a solid swell frighteningly close
Spectators are everywhere
Sunset from the deck at the Bora Bora Yacht Club
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//87

The finish of the final leg at Bora Bora
The two nights we spent in Bora Bora we stayed at the
Bora Bora Holiday Lodge, a perfect place to stay; great
rooms, air conditioning, a pool and is only 5 minutes’
walk to the yacht club, which was an brilliant place for an
evening drink and a meal.
If you are going to Bora Bora, you need to check out
Bloody Mary’s, it is …. Unique, the list outside on the wall
is a list of all those who have been to the restaurant, and
it reads like a Hollywood who’s who. Established in the
latter half of the 1970s, a genuine Polish noble, Baron
Jerzy Hubert Edward von Dangel, created the restaurant,
and it has become an icon of Bora Bora – great local food
and equally good music.
The day after the race, we had a day to fill and spent it
with Bora Bora Cultural Lagoon Cruises with our guide
Narihau. We were picked up and immediately taken to a
spot where manta rays came in quite shallow; snorkelling
in the misty water (manta does not like crystal clear) we
got to see these monsters of the deep gliding around
scooping up food. We then headed back to the boat, the
OTI'A ARE, and we went to Narihua family island (motu)
for lunch. Now over the years, I have had several great
island lunches but never anything like this, it was simply
superb. After lunch, you can walk around the motu which
has now been turned into a garden, and each plant is
clearly labelled and describe what it is and how it has
been used. On our return to the hotel via the boat, we
stopped at the coral garden where you could swim in
what and only be described as an aquarium with bright
colour coral and fish of every description. The tour is a
great way to experience Bora Bora in a way you would
never find yourself.
We then headed back to Papeete and relaxed back into
the newly refurbished Te Moana hotel for the night, only
to be up early the next day for our Va’a experience. After
watching the canoes for the last week, it was great to
have some tuition on how it is done and to actually get to
paddle.
The first this you note is it’s not easy, it is not physically
hard (well, not while you are learning in the lagoon) but it
is tricky, you must keep in rhythm and make sure ya don’t
bonk the person in front on the back of the head. We
played around in the lagoon for a few hours, and we did
get better, but you can only begin to imagine how difficult
it must be in open water with waves and wind and in a
race!
As our week of activity came to a close, we had one
last hoorah. Fishing with Moorea Fishing Charters, we
jumped on the ferry with our guide Fred and went over
to the beautiful island or Moorea. Here we were met
Va'a experience day
88//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#235

Classic Bora Bora, the most beautiful finish line in the world, captured by Greg Knell
by the biggest smile I have seen in Tahiti, Matahi. He was
pumped and ready to go fishing. The day before, they had
caught a nice tuna, and they were amped. Very cool boata
23feet long aluminium V-shaped boat, powered up and great
for the conditions. And exceptionally well captained, as we
found out. As we went outside the reef, our good luck with the
weather changed, the wind came up, and the rain came down
in buckets. With the wind and the rain and swell it was ….
Challenging, but Matahi was determined, we tried for 4 hours,
but it was not to be.
Eventually, we gave up as the conditions continued to worsen.
But the moment you head back into the lagoon, it is such a
contrast, and it is back to dead calm. We headed to Matahi
house for lunch which included fresh tuna (from yesterday)
raw and cooked with his grandmother’s special marinade. We
didn’t catch anything, but as we told the disappointed Matahi
it’s called fishing, not catching, and it gives us a great reason
to come back and we will. Matahi sent us a few pics of the
previous week – and we can wait to get back.
The only good thing about leaving Tahiti is Air Tahiti Nui, the
friendly staff, the fantastic food the comfortable layout of the
Dreamliner is the perfect end to a perfect trip. As we took off,
the sun had come out and illuminated the reef and it was like it
was not saying goodbye but see you again soon... And we will!
Special thanks to:
Staff at Tahiti Tourism www.tahititourisme.nz/en-nz/
Air Tahiti Nui www.airtahitinui.com
Te Moana Tahiti Resort www.temoanatahitiresort.pf/en/
Tahiti Yacht Charters www.tahitiyachtcharter.com/en/
Bora Bora Holidays Lodge www.boraboraholidayslodge.com
Bora Bora lagoon and cultural excursion
www.boraboralagoontours.com
Bloody Marys www.bloodymarys.com
Moorea Fishing Charter www.mooreafishingadventures.com
Captain James Tapeta • Maruia Richmond
Holding on for dear life with Moorea Fishing Chaters
Amazing results can be had with Moorea Fishing Charters
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//89

Tahitian Dreamliner
Voyage en première
Enjoy full service in all classes
* Complimentary WiFi for Poerava Business
© Grégoire Le Bacon
AUCKLAND - TAHITI - LOS ANGELES - SEATTLE - PARIS - TOKYO
airtahitinui.com

A l p i n e R e s o r t
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Alpine Hiking Gear Hire on-site
Skotel Alpine Resort | SkotelAlpineResort
Ngauruhoe Place | Whakapapa Village, SH 48
www.skotel.co.nz | info@skotel.co.nz
+64 7 892 3719 | 0800 756 835
The Old Nurses hOme
GuesThOuse
Welcome to The Old Nurses Home Guesthouse
This historic renovated building in Reefton allows you to enjoy the stunning
Victoria Conservation Park with access to outstanding bush walks, historic
mining sites, and withing walking distance to the famous Inangahua River and
some of the best fishing for trout in NZ. White water raft or kayak the exciting
rivers in the area. Reefton offers a perfect base for MTB riders to explore The
Old Ghost Road from Lyell through the ranges to Seddonville on the West Coast.
www.reeftonaccommodation.co.nz
+6437328881
info@reeftonaccommodation.co.nz

P
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XMAS ADVENT GIFT SET
TRAILER BOAT TOURNAMENT
28 & 29 JAN 2023
(RESERVE 4 & 5 FEB)
ENTRY: $40 Adults, $15 Juniors
LOCATION: Tauranga Sports
Fishing Club
MC: RILEY ELLIOT
Riley will share his knowledge of the
BOP region and the Great Whites.
LAB0695
Enter online up until midday THURSDAY 26 Jan,
after this all entries through the Club please.
www.tsfc.co.nz/events
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Mountain bike clean up area and a secure mountain bike storage area available
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p: +64 7 348 4079 | w: regentrotorua.co.nz
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