Adventure Magazine

Issue #236 Xmas 2022

Issue #236
Xmas 2022


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adventure<br />

where actions speak louder than words<br />

where actions speak louder than words<br />

REACH<br />


MOMENT<br />

SUMMER<br />

ISSUE<br />

ISSUE 235<br />

DEC 2022/JAN 2023<br />

NZ $10.90 incl. GST




est in peace... "that's not gonna happen"<br />

Phil was up for anything that involved the water<br />

Phil Wilkins<br />

(1948 - 2022)<br />

Phil was always up for an adventure<br />

I have looked back over the last two years of my editorials, and apart from one or two,<br />

there is an ongoing common theme. It is obviously, something we all need to be aware of<br />

but do these editorials have an effect? Maybe not, but that does not delete the endeavor.<br />

To be concise and to summarize the majority of the last two years’ editorial is to say that<br />

our only non-renewable asset is time and the overpowering need to use it wisely and<br />

effectively. To continue with the cliché, no one ever lay on their deathbed wishing they<br />

had spent more time at work. We do not get to choose the hand we are dealt in terms of<br />

health; sure, we can improve our chances, but we do not really get a choice. However,<br />

the choice you do get is to use the time you are given the best way you can.<br />

Phil and wife Sue shared a love of skiing, then later<br />

took up snowboarding!<br />

Last week a close friend and mentor of mine died. Phil Wilkins, he was kind and<br />

generous and intelligent. But he was also active; he surfed, he dived, he biked, he skied,<br />

he windsurfed, he paddle-boarded. if there was a moment in the day, he filled it with<br />

action. But these activities he did not do alone he involved friends and family he was both<br />

the captain and the cheerleader.<br />

Then his life was cut short by Parkinson’s disease. As tragic as that is, and it is hugely<br />

tragic, Phil could look back on his life and say without a doubt that he could not have<br />

squeezed one more moment in; his life was full and well lived, and he filled his cup to the<br />

brim and then let it overflow.<br />

I will miss the ongoing example of how to live a life, but it installed in me from an early<br />

age the need to ‘seize the day’, and his example continues in that you really don’t know<br />

how many days you are allotted.<br />

When someone passes, people say, ‘rest in peace,’ if there is a sequel to this life, then I<br />

am sure Phil is certainly not resting in peace, but he’ll be there squeezing as much as he<br />

can out of each and every day.<br />

Thanks for the lifelong example.<br />

Steve Dickinson - Editor<br />

Mountain biking was another of Phil's loves<br />

your <strong>Adventure</strong> starts with Us<br />

23 Locations Nationwide | www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz

page 6<br />

contents<br />

Image by Marcelo Maragni / Red Bull Content Pool Image by Richard Rossiter<br />

Image by Derek Cheng<br />

page 14<br />

page 22<br />

6//Alpine climbing in a warming climate<br />

by Derek Cheng<br />

14//Getting high on the old ghost road<br />

By Eric Skilling<br />

22//Sky Grind<br />

with Leticia Bufoni<br />

26//A stunning welcome back to the West<br />

Coast<br />

Karekare Whatipu Loop<br />

30//Crankworx Rotorua<br />

The final stop of the World Tour<br />

36//Ruapehu's greatest hits<br />

• 5 fantastic day hikes<br />

46//Three go wild in Taranaki<br />

By Lynne Dickinson<br />

74//<strong>Adventure</strong> Travel<br />

• Samoa<br />

• Rarotonga<br />

• Vanuatu<br />

• Tahiti<br />

plus<br />

54. gear guides<br />

91. active adventure<br />


www.facebook.com/adventuremagnz<br />

adventuremagazine<br />

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz<br />

Nzadventuremag<br />



Image by Steve Dickinson<br />

page 84<br />


Steve Dickinson<br />

Mob: 027 577 5014<br />

steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />


Lynne Dickinson<br />

design@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />


subscribe at www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz<br />


Ovato, Ph (09) 979 3000<br />


ONLINE)<br />

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we ARE climbing<br />

John Palmer at Sunnyside, Wanaka<br />

Photo: Tom Hoyle<br />

For over thirty years Bivouac Outdoor has been proudly 100% New Zealand owned and committed to providing<br />

you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. It is the same gear we literally stake our<br />

lives on, because we are committed to adventure and we ARE climbing.<br />

Supporting Aotearoa's Backcountry Heritage<br />




Climber Giuliano Cameroni Image by Stefan Kürzi; From the Red Bull content pool, illume Quest Entry<br />

The Red Bull Illume competition<br />

brings together the best athletes and<br />

photographers in the world. The results<br />

are often stunning, capturing a moment,<br />

a feeling, or visually telling a narrative.<br />

Giuliano Cameroni is an astounding<br />

climber with a unique way of looking at<br />

both the rock he climbs and the nature<br />

that surrounds it . Stefan Kürzi has<br />

managed to capture that moment with this<br />

exceptional image.<br />

Giuliano Cameroni sees rocks differently<br />

to most people. To him, a boulder of<br />

granite is a playground, a puzzle. It's a<br />

work of art. The Swiss climber used to<br />

follow the ways of most other climbers by<br />

working heavily in the gym to build up the<br />

muscle to tackle the toughest boulders<br />

both at home and abroad. However, an<br />

encounter with another climber, Charles<br />

Albert, a couple of years ago transformed<br />

his outlook on how he approaches every<br />

climb. Go climbing, not to the gym!<br />

"I knew this connection with the rock was<br />

very important, but everyone goes to the<br />

gym and trains, so I thought I had to do<br />

it also," he recalled. "I started doing it<br />

when I was young and the results were<br />

never great. I'd never make that big step<br />

forward. He was like, 'Dude, training is<br />

s***. Just go on the rock and just try really<br />

hard'. I lived with him for two months and I<br />

tried it because I was curious."<br />

His new-found philosophy has seen a<br />

rapid progression in his career. He likes to<br />

meditate to help prepare body and mind<br />

and, even when not climbing, he enjoys<br />

being at one with nature in the search for<br />

his next potential conquest.<br />

"I really love the energy of the forest,"<br />

he said. "It gives me tremendous energy<br />

being outside. The world is so perfect,<br />

nature is perfect. I really see the beauty of<br />

it and the chance to be able to be there. I<br />

spend as much time there as possible."<br />

"Out there in nature, I'm trying to figure<br />

out the rock and what it offers – the close<br />

connection to the rock," he said. "Others<br />

only go to the gym and train, and have<br />

much more power than me, but still<br />

can't do the rocks as they don't feel that<br />

connection... "<br />

“Northern Rocks is an indoor<br />

bouldering facility, we foster<br />

community, growth and<br />

positive experiences<br />

for people of all<br />

backgrounds, ages<br />

and abilities.”<br />

World Class Indoor Climbing<br />

First visit $25* then free for a week!<br />

Fantastic community, beginners<br />

welcome, boulder classes for all ages<br />

and abilities, inquire now.<br />

* Discounts for youths and own gear<br />

Student Mondays, entry $15<br />

www.northernrocks.co.nz<br />

@northernrocks.climbing<br />

Unit 17, 101-111 Diana Drive,<br />

Wairau Valley, Auckland | 09 278 2363


Alpine<br />

climbing<br />

in a<br />

warming<br />

climate:<br />

The times,<br />

they're<br />

not for<br />

wasting<br />

Words and photos by Derek Cheng<br />

It sounded like an earthquake, but the ground below<br />

us was still. As if in slow motion, an increasingly<br />

thunderous noise drifted in from the other side of<br />

the valley, where blooming dust clouds signalled a<br />

rockfall of gargantuan proportions.<br />


A climber stuffs his hand into a crack on the Sala Athee route, on Aiguille du Moine in the European Alps

Our bivvy site, under Envers des Aiguille, where constant rockfall disturbed our sleep.<br />

"This is always a disconcerting sight for<br />

a climber. It was especially alarming<br />

because we watched the debris peter<br />

down towards a gully where we’d been<br />

planning to venture in the coming days."<br />

This is always a disconcerting sight for a climber. It was<br />

especially alarming because we watched the debris peter down<br />

towards a gully where we’d been planning to venture in the<br />

coming days. The gully was the access to 375m-long alpine<br />

climb called Sala Athee, on the peak known as The Monk, which<br />

was recommended to us because of its technical crack climbing.<br />

We were sitting in an idyllic bivvy spot below the granite needles<br />

of Envers des Aiguilles, near Chamonix, in the heart of the<br />

European Alps. The rockfall wasn’t anywhere near us, but<br />

witnessing such a large one always focuses the mind on what<br />

might fall down at any moment.<br />

All through the night, the unnerving sound of collapsing rocks<br />

echoed around us. If I happened to be awake, there was little to<br />

do but hide in my sleeping bag and hope we weren’t in the direct<br />

path of anything.<br />

The following day, as we scaled the jagged corners and<br />

technical slabs of a 650m-high climb called Banana Republic,<br />

we remained on constant alert to the possibility of rockfall,<br />

which, thankfully, never eventuated.<br />

We had chosen the climb because it had less objective danger<br />

than other routes in the Mont Blanc massif. The European<br />

summer had been a sweltering affair, and many of the glaciers<br />

in the alps were already opening up. In early July we had<br />

crossed the Valle Blanche to climb the magnificent granite tower,<br />

Grand Capucin, and were later told that a guide and his client<br />

had both fallen into a crevasse, breaking several bones, while<br />

crossing the same glacier at around the same time as we had.<br />

A week before that, a serac the size of two football fields<br />

collapsed from the top of the Marmolada Glacier, in the Italian<br />

Dolomites, killing 10 people. It’s still unclear how it happened,<br />

but it wasn’t an area known to be dangerous, nor was it a<br />

hanging glacier, where icefall would be expected. But rising<br />

temperatures have made glaciers more unstable; leading up to<br />

the accident, a weather station at 3250m on the Marmolada had<br />

recorded 23 straight days of temperatures above 0 0 Celsius.<br />

These are uncertain times, as rising temperatures change<br />

the face of the mountains we love to play in. Over the last<br />

century, temperatures in the European Alps have gone up by<br />

2 degrees Celsius, twice the global average. Climate change<br />

has contributed to glaciers shrinking by more than a third over<br />

the last 18 years. And while scientists expect the Marmolada to<br />

disappear altogether within 15 years, others predict all glaciers<br />

in Europe below 3500m will have gone by 2050.<br />

The same pattern has been observed in New Zealand, which in<br />

general means the snowline is creeping higher while the volume<br />

of ice shrinks. Studies from the National Institute of Water and<br />

Atmospheric Research show that a third of the permanent snow<br />

and ice in the Southern Alps was lost between 1977 and 2014.<br />

More recently, New Zealand glaciers have been shown to have<br />

lost 1.5m a year from 2015 to 2019, almost seven times as much<br />

compared to the thinning that occurred between 2000 and 2004.<br />

As a globe-trotting dirtbag climber for more than a decade, this<br />

poses a dilemma: how to offset the carbon footprint of someone<br />

who regularly undertakes long-haul flights and super-long<br />

drives. Some feel so guilty about their impact on the planet that<br />

they no longer indulge in visits to far-flung climbing destinations.<br />


A massive rockfall tumbles down the south face of Aiguille Verte, where another hot summer continues to change the mountains we play in

Chris Davis sits atop one of dozens of glorious granite needles in the European Alps.<br />

"rising temperatures have made<br />

glaciers more unstable; a<br />

weather station at 3250m on<br />

the Marmolada had recorded 23<br />

straight days of temperatures<br />

above 0 degrees Celsius."<br />

But giving up a lifestyle that has given me so much is too<br />

much of a sacrifice, personally. So I look for other ways to<br />

reduce my carbon footprint. A huge chunk of greenhouse gas<br />

emissions come from agriculture; in New Zealand, it’s almost<br />

50 per cent. Red meat, in particular, leaves a large carbon<br />

footprint, due to cows’ methane emissions.<br />

A recent American study found that if every person in the<br />

US cut their meat consumption by 25 per cent, annual<br />

greenhouse gas emissions would fall by 1 per cent. So rule<br />

number one is ‘eat less meat’ or, more particularly, ‘buy<br />

less meat’; I have no problem eating a steak that someone<br />

else won’t eat, for example, because it doesn’t contribute to<br />

consumer demand.<br />

Which brings me to the second rule: about a third of all food<br />

produced is thrown out. This is not only offensively wasteful,<br />

but it also scars the environment, given how much energy<br />

and water it takes to grow, harvest, package and distribute<br />

those billions of tonnes of food.<br />

Rule number two is ‘no waste’, and it doesn’t just apply to my<br />

food. Those who partake in the dirtbag lifestyle are familiar<br />

with eating the leftovers on someone else’s plate in a cafe or<br />

restaurant, or dumpster-diving, where the all-important smelltest<br />

determines what might still be edible.<br />

Nor does it apply to only food. The holes in my climbing<br />

clothing are generally covered in duct tape, and I only ever<br />

acquire clothing - usually second-hand - when my old ones<br />

are well and truly beyond their retirement date.<br />

When I travel, I tend to go for a long period on a one-way<br />

ticket, rather than take several flights a year for a number<br />

of shorter climbing holidays. When not travelling, I have a<br />

further rule: unless the weather is apocalyptic, I don’t tend to<br />

drive, and if we do drive to climbing crags, we car-pool.<br />

Personal actions, of course, are insignificant in the grand<br />

scheme of things unless they are done collectively. These<br />

are all easy ways everyone can reduce their carbon footprint.<br />

But climate change is already happening to such an extent<br />

that it is irreversible. For alpine climbers, the seasons are<br />

already no longer what they used to be. Warmer climes<br />

mean thinner and vanishing snow bridges over glacier<br />

crevasses, ever-wider bergschrund gaps between the ice<br />

and the rockwall, and melting permafrost releasing clumps of<br />

rock and soil that are normally frozen together.<br />

The latter is thought to be behind the fate of the hut known as<br />

the Bivouac de la Fourche, which was perched precariously<br />

on the Kuffner Ridge on Mont Maudit, but which collapsed<br />

into the Brenva Glacier in August. There was no cliff above it<br />

that could have unleashed a hut-smashing rock-slide.<br />

And then there’s glacial retreat, which makes some climbs<br />

inaccessible due to an increasingly hostile moraine wall to<br />

overcome. Even if you do make it, there might be an extra<br />

25m of technical climbing just to reach what used to be the<br />

start of the route.<br />

I had arrived in France at the end of June, and quickly<br />

jumped on some ice climbing objectives before the summer<br />

temperatures made them unclimbable. The top section of<br />

the classic Frendo Spur, on Aiguille du Midi, had already<br />

deteriorated to black glacial ice instead of much friendlier<br />

snow névé, which had already melted.<br />

Within two weeks, the unofficial advice was not to climb on<br />

certain mountains because getting there was too dangerous.<br />

Crossing some glaciers had become a lottery, we were<br />

told, rather than an exercise in skill and knowledge. And<br />

attempting some routes was tempting fate: a huge boulder<br />

on Cosmiques Arête fell down a few weeks after we’d<br />

climbed it.<br />


Chris Davis climbing the Arete du Diable traverse, on Mt Blanc du Tacul, before conditions became too warm this past summer.

Chris Davis on the famous snow arete section of the Frendo Spur on Aiguille du Midi, high above the town of Chamonix<br />

"The top section of the classic<br />

Frendo Spur, on Aiguille du Midi,<br />

had already deteriorated to<br />

black glacial ice instead of much<br />

friendlier snow névé, which had<br />

already melted. "<br />

As rockfall became more and more ubiquitous,<br />

Chamonix-based climbers looked to objectives that<br />

didn’t involve crossing a glacier. The Sala Athee, in<br />

the Charpoua area, was one such climb, but we were<br />

hesitant after having watched a massive avalanche<br />

sweep down towards the gully that leads to it.<br />

We decided to head up to the area anyway and seek<br />

the local advice of the guardian at the Charpoua<br />

Refuge, who told us that there hadn’t been any<br />

activity in the gully since then. Several parties had<br />

also climbed the route in the previous week, including<br />

the previous day.<br />

The next morning, pre-dawn, was a still, chilly<br />

atmosphere as we approached the gully. It was slabby<br />

and slippery, as expected, given it had been glaciallycarved<br />

eons ago. Rockfall was thankfully absent as<br />

we scrambled up to the base of the climb.<br />

Nerves around the descent were always going to<br />

centre around down-climbing the gully. A mountain is<br />

generally a lot more unstable in the evening, after its<br />

features have spent several hours in the warmth of<br />

the day. We did what all alpinists do when confronted<br />

with unavoidable objective hazards: we crossed our<br />

fingers and hurried through.<br />

It seemed a fitting metaphor in these warming times.<br />

There will be a time in the not-too-distant future when<br />

classic routes are no longer what they were, or may<br />

have even fallen down altogether. For those that are<br />

still there and are safe enough to climb, there’s no<br />

time to waste.<br />

derekcheng.media<br />

www.instagram.com/dirtbagdispatches<br />

Sala Athee starts with two warm-up pitches before<br />

the wall steepens into a technical slab, an awkward<br />

chimney, and then a series of splitter cracks that<br />

climax in an exposed step around an overhanging<br />

arête. The top-out, too, is suitably glorious: a flat, wide<br />

and spacious platform that wing-suiters, in the right<br />

conditions, would happily launch from.<br />


Climbers topping out a route called Voice of the Druid, on Aiguille du Moine, high above the shrinking Mer de Glace.

Getting High<br />

on the Old<br />

Ghost Road<br />

Spectacular mountain biking<br />

in a unique wilderness<br />

By Eric Skilling<br />

Absolute focus. This moment was all about the thrill of racing along the trail,<br />

anticipating the direction of the next turn, guessing how big those rocks were<br />

and picking the right line as the bike careered over sporadic streams in a<br />

spray of cold water. Nothing else mattered as I weaved between tree trunks,<br />

under overhanging branches and around huge rocks. The closeness of the<br />

forest exaggerated the sense of speed and yes, I was on a high.<br />

Several metres away one of those typically clear West Coast rivers crashed<br />

and cascaded its way over giant granite and marble boulders, but its beauty<br />

went almost unnoticed as I concentrated on the path ahead.<br />

It was the second day of my journey, and I had reached the last 8km of a<br />

25km section from Lyell to Stern Huts. Already I understood why trampers<br />

and mountain bikers got so excited about tackling this challenging trail –<br />

today must rate as one of the most stunning and varied mountain biking<br />

days you will find anywhere in the world. And it is less than a third of this<br />

remarkable track.<br />

Cycling the Wilderness Trail had inspired me to come back and explore<br />

more of the distinctive forests, rivers and mountains that make this region so<br />

unique. The intriguingly named Old Ghost Road promised 85km of adventure<br />

set in a magnificent corner of West Coast wilderness, but I underestimated<br />

how spectacular and memorable my four days here would be.<br />

This second day had begun with 6 km of almost continual climbing through<br />

a tranquil beech forest, the floor covered with lichens and thick, bright-green<br />

mosses. Apart from the gravel crunching under my tyres and the noise of my<br />

breathing, the only sound to break the silence was the call of the occasional<br />

bird.<br />

Above: Slips Briges above Mokihinui. Image by Jonathan Kennett<br />


Climbing through stunning native forest. Image by Sven Martin

Everything changed dramatically at around 1300 metres<br />

elevation, as the path emerged out of the bush line and<br />

onto Lyell saddle. Suddenly there were views to the<br />

horizons. West to the scarred bush-clad valleys of the<br />

Glasgow range. East past the tiny lines and boxes of<br />

Murchison and the ridges of Nelson Lakes National Park,<br />

to the jagged Kaikoura peaks outlined against the distant<br />

skyline.<br />

Gone was the lush flora of the forest - the ground now<br />

covered in the browns and reds of wind battered alpine<br />

shrubs and tussock grasses. A strong wind raced up from<br />

the valleys and over the ridge where I stood gazing out<br />

at the breath-taking views. Within a couple of minutes I<br />

was uncomfortably cold, so I sought the sanctuary of Top<br />

Camp Shelter, a few hundred metres away.<br />

The next few hours were a mix of exhilarating and<br />

exhausting riding, which also left me in awe of the<br />

exceptional engineering and the effort taken to make this<br />

track possible. Large sections of the track have been<br />

carved into the cliff faces with several bridges clinging to<br />

the rock, making it a spine-tingling traverse.<br />

To say the next section below Ghost Lake hut is<br />

challenging is like saying New Zealand has a few lakes<br />

and trees. The steep descent below Ghost Lake on a fully<br />

laden bike confirmed I am a bit of a wuss but the route<br />

itself is truly impressive.<br />

Thankfully, once below Skyline steps and into the bush<br />

again, the pathway levels out and the last 8km along the<br />

Stern Valley is an epic finish to an incomparable day’s<br />

riding. There would likely be a bit of a sting in the legs<br />

tomorrow, but this day had exceeded all my expectations.<br />

The good news is that this wasn’t the only section of<br />

the trail that would get the heart racing. A day later at<br />

Specimen hut, I had gazed from the window down to<br />

the narrow and steep-sided Mokihinui river gorge and<br />

contemplated how the track could possibly get us any<br />

further. Once again, all credit to the people who invested<br />

thousands of hours blasting, digging, and smashing their<br />

way to create the slender path that clings to the edge<br />

of the cliffs, offering nerve-wracking views of the swift<br />

moving waters of the Mokihinui many metres below.<br />

Some choose to ride all 85km in a day, such as Lynn,<br />

Mira, Charlotte and Duncan, residents from nearby<br />

Westport. I am not a local and deciding to take 4 days<br />

to make this amazing journey was the right choice for<br />

me. Not least because I lack the technical skill and<br />

fitness for such a gruelling adventure, but also because<br />

this unique wilderness area demands savouring. In the<br />

words of Marion Boatwright, the American immigrant,<br />

explaining his motivation for dedicating over a decade of<br />

his life to making the OGR a reality - “……this is world<br />

class country…….. it’s like your seriously hot sister, but<br />

because she is your sister you can’t see how gorgeous<br />

she really is.”<br />

Lynn, Mira, Charlotte and Duncan chose<br />

to ride all 85km in one day<br />


Unmatched perch on the tops. - Image by Richard Rossiter<br />

“…this is world<br />

class country…<br />

it’s like your<br />

seriously hot<br />

sister, but<br />

because she is<br />

your sister you<br />

can’t see how<br />

gorgeous she<br />

really is.”

Trail snaking its way past Ghost lake.Image by Richard Rossiter<br />

While I am impressed with the skill and applaud the achievement of a one-day<br />

assault, I was glad to have set aside more time to appreciate this rare experience.<br />

There are several aspects of the OGR that must be mentioned in more detail. The<br />

birdlife, the accommodation, and the engineering.OGR is a fatal place to venture<br />

into if you are a stoat, rat or possum. A network of 1,000 traps, deviously managed<br />

by an enthusiastic group of conscientious folks have successfully dispatched over<br />

7,000 of these unwelcome exotics. The benefits add so much to the experience for<br />

us visitors. In the few hours it took from the trailhead at Lyell car park to the Lyell<br />

hut, I was cheered on by the calls of wrens, tomtits, rifleman, kaka, the inimitable<br />

bellbird and my favourite, the curiously cheeky piwakawaka.<br />

It was common to see bellbirds from the track, several families of whio alongside<br />

the rivers, and I had the pleasure of a robin joining me during a lunch stop between<br />

Stern hut and Specimen point. On the last stretch along the Mokihinui River, kea<br />

called to each other from the treetops above me. A dawn chorus of native birds is<br />

my idea of a perfect wake up call, and the menagerie of birds calling from the native<br />

trees around Stern hut take the award for the most cheerful and energetic.<br />

Marcus about to tackle the Skyline Steps.<br />

Image by Jeff Ward<br />

Weka are often seen on the path, sprinting their way into the shrubbery ahead,<br />

hooting their annoyance at my intrusion. But in the ultimate confirmation of a<br />

successful of the pest eradication programme, kiwi have been heard in the beech<br />

forests around Lyell and Ghost Lake hut. To all you folks who work so diligently, and<br />

to quote the General manager of the Mokihinui-Lyell Backcountry Trust – take a<br />

bow! Nga mihi.<br />

Perfectly placed Top Camp Shelter was a<br />

welcome refuge from the wind<br />


Secondly, the accommodation. Lots of thought has gone into the placement, design<br />

and building of the huts. Photographs from the legendary Ghost Lake hut confirm it<br />

is up there with the best placed back country accommodation in NZ in terms of wide<br />

vistas and stunning sunrises and sunsets. Specimen point is also a gem of a site for<br />

a hut. Nestled on a small ridge, dominated by steep bush-clad valley walls, and filled<br />

with the sounds of the Mokihinui River. Stern hut is the forest-bathing mecca of the<br />

trail, nestled amongst regenerating rimu, totara, matai and kahikatea.





Find it free to watch on YouTube, the websites below, or scan the QR code<br />

bit.ly/OldGhostRoadVideo<br />

By Mountain Safety Council<br />

planmywalk.nz oldghostroad.org.nz nzcycletrail.com

Exhausting and thrilling track across the alpine tops<br />

The engineering. It has to be seen to be believed.<br />

Riding the trail is exciting enough, but it is difficult to<br />

comprehend how they were constructed in the first<br />

place. Not enough can be said about the countless<br />

hours and dogged determination it has taken<br />

designing, let alone building these enthralling tracks<br />

and bridges.<br />

Phil Rossiter, one of the original “band of four”<br />

designers is acknowledged as an enthusiastic<br />

mountain biker, and his influence in design is<br />

obvious. Although there were times when I forced<br />

myself to “look at the track, not at the drop” to<br />

paraphrase an old skiing saying, I never felt unsafe.<br />

A series of solid wire “rails” are there to protect the<br />

weary. This trail is set in a wilderness environment,<br />

demanding to be treated with caution and respect.<br />

Jeff below Ghost Lake Hut. - Image by Rachael Melville<br />

An after-dinner discussion amongst a group of<br />

passionate trampers and mountain bikers at Stern<br />

hut drifted to a comparison of the OGR to the more<br />

established walks - Milford, Hollyford, Routeburn,<br />

Kepler to name a few. OGR was winner by a clear<br />

majority.<br />

Late on the last day, shortly after a bush shower, I<br />

was sipping coffee on the deck at the Rough and<br />

Tumble Lodge, surrounded by two groups of riders<br />

enjoying the satisfaction of completing the ride,<br />

cleaning their bikes, ordering drinks, loudly reliving<br />

moments on the trail. Like them, I vowed to be back<br />

again.<br />

The author travelled courtesy of Old Ghost Road and<br />

Development West Coast. I choose to use Jetboil,<br />

Macpac, Backcountry Cuisine and Keen products<br />

Spine-tingling drops over the Mokihinui River<br />


sky<br />

grind<br />

Words and images courtesy of Red Bull<br />

Brazilian Leticia Bufoni's Sky Grind project involved<br />

2,750m (9,000ft) of altitude, an aircraft from the Fast<br />

And Furious movie franchise, a skydiving expert from<br />

the Mission Impossible film series, skate obstacles,<br />

parachutes – and potentially the most hair-raising<br />

skateboard trick ever recorded.<br />



Bufoni has carved out a reputation as one of the best global<br />

skaters with six X Games golds to her name, three silvers and<br />

three bronzes.<br />

For this project, the São Paulo native hopped on an airplane used<br />

in the Fast & Furious films and made history with a distinctive trick<br />

shot by the aerial cameraman from the film Mission: Impossible -<br />

Fallout.<br />

Bufoni intensified her physical training in the months leading<br />

into the stunt at Aerotelier - an aero-sport base in Argentina - by<br />

skydiving more than 100 times to prepare for this challenge.<br />

When Bufoni finally felt ready, she traveled in late August with<br />

more than 50 people from the production and shooting crew to<br />

shoot in a tailor-made skatepark inside a C-130 Hercules airplane.<br />

California Skateparks founder Joe Ciaglia, who built the skatepark<br />

used in the Tokyo Olympics, has known Bufoni for more than 10<br />

years and built the first skatepark designed inside an airplane.<br />

Wearing a parachute of almost 20 pounds (9.1kg), she<br />

skateboarded and jumped on August 30, and was captured by<br />

Craig O'Brien, the same cameraman that jumps with Tom Cruise<br />

in 'Mission: Impossible - Fallout'.<br />

Bufoni nailed the 'feeble grind' - a difficult trick that combines a<br />

50/50 and boardslide trick - where she slid on the handrail, by<br />

leaning on the side of the metal truck connecting the wheels on<br />

the back of the skateboard, whilst in the air.<br />

The 29-year-old enthused: "It's crazy to think that I'm the first<br />

person to skateboard inside a plane and do a feeble in the air.<br />

That's something I didn't know if it was possible or not. I've never<br />

skateboarded on an airplane. That was one of the greatest days<br />

of my life."<br />

Red Bull Air Force member Jeffrey Provenzano, 46 who trained<br />

Bufoni in skydiving, added: "As a skydiver, she is amazing. I<br />

was surprised. Athletes tend to learn fast, but she was beyond<br />

expectations. She gave 100% of attention to all of the details."<br />

Watch the full Sky Dive Clip HERE.

Home to a tiny island<br />

community of 212 people<br />


Above: Framed by driftwood sculptures as we headed to Whatipu / Below: Enjoying a tail-wind and firm low tide sand on the way south<br />


A<br />

Stunning<br />

Welcome<br />

Back to<br />

the West<br />

Coast<br />

Karekare Whatipu Loop, Waitakere (22km – 6 hours)<br />

Words and Images by Eric Skilling<br />

Standing on Karekare beach I can understand why a famous<br />

director chose to shoot a movie here.<br />

Apart from a lone fisherman practicing his craft we were the only<br />

people. Ahead of us the fine black sand, freshly groomed by the<br />

outgoing tide, stretched to the horizon. Somewhere up there,<br />

over six kilometres away along the beach, was the entrance to the<br />

Manukau harbour.<br />

The colours of the Tasman Sea always seem that much richer<br />

alongside the deep charcoals and blacks of the shoreline. Today<br />

the waves fought their way in against an offshore wind, finally<br />

crashing in a mass of spray and then racing up the sloping beach<br />

towards us, coming to a stop a few feet away.<br />

Almost a kilometre away to our left, a few dunes dotted with wispy<br />

grass looked insignificant against the heavily scarred cliffs that<br />

were clearly losing the battle against the forces of this high-energy<br />

coastline. Above these precipices impenetrable-looking West<br />

Coast bush covered the ridges, the greenery contrasting starkly<br />

against the darker shades on the cliff faces. You can only be<br />

inspired by this place.<br />

Finally, four years after the tracks had been closed to protect our<br />

native Kauri trees, we are able to travel the loop from Karekare<br />

to Whatipu and back. Our plan on this trip was to meet at the<br />

Karekare car park and travel south some 10km along the beach<br />

to the entrance of the Manukau Harbour at Whatipu. Then head<br />

inland past the camping ground and follow the newly completed<br />

Muir and Gibbons tracks back to Karekare.<br />

From 90-mile beach to Fiordland, the West Coast is spectacularly<br />

wild country full of great walks but in terms of accessibility and<br />

variety of terrain, this rates as one of the best. Combining an<br />

open beach section leaving you fully exposed to the elements,<br />

to the relative calm of tracks meandering through lush bush, with<br />

stunning views from the cliff-tops and boardwalks over thriving<br />

wetlands.<br />

Our leader made a great call when she decided to head south<br />

along the beach in the early morning just after low tide. We all<br />

appreciated making fresh footprints along the firm sand, and we<br />

got to enjoy the wind at our backs on the most unprotected section<br />

of the walk. Much more appealing than a slog back into the wind<br />

in soft sand at high tide with tiring legs.<br />


Looking north from the cliff top on Gibbons Track, the rocky island at Karekare Beach in the distance<br />

Another benefit of setting out in a strong northerly wind was the<br />

protection offered by the Waitakere range. It would rain quite<br />

steadily all day on the eastern side of the range, but on this side,<br />

we were well protected. Our day just got warmer and the sky<br />

clearer to the point where some of us would have run out of water<br />

if it hadn’t been for the water tanks at Pararaha campsite.<br />

A couple of hours after setting off we passed the man-made<br />

driftwood structures standing stark and slightly out of place in the<br />

black sand and reached the entrance to the Manukau Harbour<br />

and a dramatic change in scene. Gone was the wide expanse of<br />

sand, replaced with the rugged Wing Head and Paratutai Island<br />

and deceptively calm waters, well sheltered from the swell. A<br />

couple of rocky outcrops in front of the Paratutai were stark-white<br />

with a coating of bird droppings, clearly a haven for the numerous<br />

sea birds. The distant clay-coloured cliffs on the southern side of<br />

the heads looked serene with their smooth grassy tops compared<br />

to the dark rocky crags and dense bush on this northern side.<br />

It was a pleasant surprise to realise we had covered over 10km<br />

and were almost exactly half-way by this stage. Our leader led us<br />

to a sheltered sand dune at the base of Wing Head for lunch. A<br />

brash pipit/pihoihoi dropped in and got to enjoy a few morsels of<br />

fruit as reward for its confidence.<br />

Moving off the beach and onto the new Gibbons and Muir<br />

tracks was a pleasure. Costing over $2.3Mn, the helicopters,<br />

excavators and army of workers had moved on, leaving us to<br />

enjoy the serenity of the bush. Alongside and sometimes over us,<br />

regenerating karaka, cabbage tree, nikau, harakeke/flax, toetoe<br />

and manuka are thriving.<br />

A timely shout-out to all those involved in this redevelopment.<br />

The track has been designed to last. No expense spared in<br />

building wide and well gravelled paths lined with deep drains. The<br />

bridges and numerous wide boardwalks make their way over the<br />

wetlands, and the many steps built to minimise erosion as well as<br />

making it easier for us to negotiate in bad weather.<br />

Gibbons track has been routed to take full advantage of some<br />

magnificent cliff-top views that got more spectacular as we<br />

made our way to the top of the ridges. About half-way up the<br />

first ridge, we reached a lookout which took in a south-western<br />

vista including ninepin rock/Te Toka Tapu a Kupe, the beach and<br />

Paratutai island.<br />

Impressive as it was that stop did not compare to the panorama<br />

from the next clearing on the cliff edge high above the wide<br />

coastland. Facing more north, our gaze followed the dense<br />

bush-lined slopes of the cliffs on our right and then descended<br />

into the unique landscape below us with its scrub, marshes, and<br />

glistening lakes. Further out across coastal foliage and the dark<br />

band of beach, the foam lined edges of a deep-blue Tasman Sea<br />

looked deceivingly peaceful from this distance. The rocky island<br />

at Karekare Beach was very small and distant from this elevation.<br />

The path meandered inland from this point, under overhanging<br />

plants to join the Muir track. It eventually descended steeply<br />

downward into the jagged Pararaha Valley camp site and shelter.<br />

The trail was still wide and well maintained, with wooden steps<br />

and a chain-rail at the steeper sections. Above us the sky was<br />

clearing, and temperatures were rising as fast as the humidity, so<br />

we enjoyed a welcome stop for a drink and a snack at the cooking<br />

shelter. Once on the valley floor we followed the raised boardwalks<br />

over swamps and steep valley faces, to the sand-dunes.<br />

At this point one of our newer members let us know she had been<br />

enduring blisters from her relatively new boots. Fortunately, we<br />

had reached the soft sandy 4-wheel drive tracks in the dunes, and<br />

onto the firmer footing of dry lakebeds, so she took off her boots<br />

and was able to walk in the relative comfort of her socks.<br />

In a little over a kilometre the trail led us back to the rail tunnel left<br />

from the original log-felling industry of the Gibbons family dating<br />

back over 150 years ago. Even though the passageway was part<br />

of a system that has denied us later generations the benefits<br />

and pleasure the ancient Kauri, you can only respect the effort<br />

involved and sacrifices made by those who physically constructed<br />

the railway and passageway under the conditions at the time.<br />

It wasn’t long before we were back at Karekare beach and a<br />

scattering of folk enjoying the surf or riding the beach on bikes.<br />

Thanks to all those who have strived and succeeded in preserving<br />

this area, and to those who are helping to make it more like it<br />

once was. There has been such a vast improvement since it was<br />

first deemed a scientific reserve in 2002 and from what we saw<br />

on this trip, you can only be optimistic about the future.<br />

My only regret was that we had not planned for a full weekend<br />

here and travelled the Omanawanui track which, I am told, is even<br />

more stunning than what we had already enjoyed.<br />


I choose to use Jetboil, Keen footwear, Macpac and Backcountry products

crankworx<br />

rotorua<br />

2022<br />

Words and images supplied by Crankworx<br />

Crankworx Rotorua took flight in March of 2015, becoming the first<br />

festival outside of North America and Europe. Since then, it’s played<br />

host to some of the most memorable moments in Crankworx history<br />

and is now referred to “the soul of Crankworx” due to the unique<br />

ability to combine riding with culture. This year, Crankworx Rotorua<br />

was once again, the final stop of the World Tour.<br />

One rider that most people arguably had a close eye on was Emil<br />

Johansson with the Triple Crown of Slopestyle on the line. Johansson<br />

worked so hard over the past month after his crash at the Crankworx<br />

Cairns Slopestyle event. Johansson followed the concussion protocol<br />

and rehabbed very diligently to get himself cleared to get back in<br />

action, and he really came out with a bang today.<br />

“This is actually the first event in a while where I needed to calm<br />

myself down because we'd been riding so much,” Johansson said<br />

of his experience during the finals. “I was really prepared and really<br />

pumped for the event. And it was so much on the line here. For me<br />

to be able to put all the stuff down that I managed to put down and<br />

perform at the level I did, it feels surreal. Even though on the surface<br />

we might look calm, deep down we're really prepared.”<br />

The crowd went wild to see Johansson return with absolute<br />

cleanliness and technicality, spinning opposite directions, and tail<br />

whipping all directions. Johansson’s win also secured himself the<br />

2022 Triple Crown of Slopestyle for the second year in a row.<br />

Timothe Bringer took the second place position with a score of 89.5,<br />

getting himself the silver medal t and also securing the third place<br />

position for the Crankworx FMBA Slopestyle World Championship<br />

award.<br />

Earlier in the day the people of Rotorua were treated to a Crankworx<br />

favourite, the TREK Official New Zealand Whip Off Championships<br />

presented by POC. It has been a great Whip Off season this year<br />

and today was no exception. The small group of riders persevered<br />

through the schedule changes and the challenging weather conditions<br />

to put on a sick show for the spectators. Local Kiwi legend, Matt Begg,<br />

maintained his first place position for the Crankworx Rotorua Whip Off<br />

earning himself the gold medal again today.<br />

“Pretty stoked,” Begg said of his win. “I was just having fun with my<br />

friends and I happened to go in behind my friend Dave and then Allan,<br />

so I just got a good wind which made me go a bit more sideways. I am<br />

just stoked for everyone that we all got to ride together. We obviously<br />

have been battling with the rain this week so the course was a little bit<br />

tougher to ride but we made do with what we got and that’s what it’s<br />

all about.”<br />


Local Kiwi legend, Matt Begg takes the Whip Off win<br />

Image by Jay French<br />



Emil Johansson performs during Slopestyle Training at Crankworxs in Rotorua, NZ and goes on to win the Triple Crown<br />

Image by Graeme Murray / Red Bull Content Pool<br />


Above: Dan Booker at the Whip Off - Image by Jay French<br />

Left: Tomas Lemoine on practise day - Image by C Trahan<br />

Bottom Left: Gareth Burgess at the Whip Off - Image by C Trahan<br />

And that’s a wrap to the Crankworx 2022 season. If<br />

Crankworx Rotorua, the final stop on the World Tour, could<br />

be described in just a few phrases it would be mud showers,<br />

rain showers and champagne showers. The atmosphere was<br />

electric onsite with fans braving all weather conditions for a<br />

chance to rub shoulders with their icons. Racers embraced<br />

the turbulent conditions to put on one of the most impressive<br />

performances of skills, spills and plenty of thrills seen in<br />

Rotorua.<br />

Director Ariki Tibble reflected on the past week of elite racing<br />

and the contribution of the community in Rotorua. “It's been<br />

20 months since we delivered the last full scale Crankworx<br />

Rotorua event and it's hard to find the words to express how<br />

it has felt to have so many international manuhiri back in our<br />

midst...I think hosting visitors is part of our DNA, it brings out<br />

the best in us, and we feel more whole when we are doing it.”<br />

Crankworx may be over for this year, but you don’t need<br />

to wait long for your mountain biking adrenaline hit. The<br />

Crankworx Summer Series kicks off with four prime locations<br />

from February 28 – March 12, 2023 with all roads leading<br />

back to Rotorua for Crankworx in March 2023.<br />

For more information on the Crankworx Summer Series and<br />

Crankworx Rotorua 2023, check out the website:<br />

www.crankworx.com<br />

TREK Official New<br />

Zealand Whip Off<br />

Championships<br />

presented by POC<br />

1.Matt Begg (NZL)<br />

2.Peter Kaiser (AUT)<br />

3.Allan Cooke (USA)<br />

Maxxis Slopestyle in<br />

Memory of McGazza<br />

1.Emil Johansson<br />

(SWE)<br />

2.Timothe Bringer<br />

(FRA)<br />

3.Max Fredriksson<br />

(SWE)<br />

King & Queen of<br />

Crankworx<br />

1.Bas van Steenbergen<br />

(CAN) // Caroline<br />

Buchanan (AUS)<br />

2.Tomas Lemoine (FRA)<br />

// Vaea Verbeeck (CAN)<br />

3.Samuel Blenkinsop<br />

(NZL) // Jordy Scott<br />

(USA)<br />


Because it’s all<br />

about you<br />

Come cycling in stunning<br />

Central Otago and let the<br />

experts look after<br />

all your needs<br />

> Clutha Gold Trail<br />

> Lake Dunstan Trail<br />

> Roxbourgh Gorge Trail<br />

> Otago Central Rail Trail<br />

and more...<br />

Call the experts at Bike It Now!: 0800 245 366<br />

Clyde Bike Shop and Tour office open 7 Days<br />

Cromwell Bike Shop open Monday - Saturday<br />

NEW SHOP NOW OPEN IN WANAKA open 7 days<br />


uapehu's<br />

greatest<br />

hits...five<br />

fantastic<br />

day-hikes<br />

With Tongariro National Park and<br />

Whanganui National Park at its<br />

doorstep, Ruapehu is a region<br />

brimming with world-class hikes in the<br />

most diverse outdoor playground you<br />

can imagine. From dramatic volcanic<br />

landscapes, ancient lava flows to alpine<br />

valleys, sacred rivers and mountain<br />

streams, this natural wonderland is<br />

made for off the beaten track explorers<br />

who seek authentic, immersive travels<br />

to truly connect to people and place.<br />

So grab your gear, family or friends and<br />

find out why Ruapehu reigns supreme<br />

as the Central North Island’s ultimate<br />

hiking holiday destination.<br />

"Ruapehu is a region<br />

brimming with worldclass<br />

hikes in the<br />

most diverse outdoor<br />

playground you can<br />

imagine."<br />

Hiking in Tongariro National Park<br />


1.Tama Lakes<br />

A spectacular alternative to the Tongariro Alpine<br />

Crossing, the Tama Lakes Track is a 17.6 km return<br />

day hike that journeys through otherworldly alpine<br />

and volcanic landscapes. An extension of the<br />

Taranaki Falls Track, the Tama Lakes Track begins<br />

in Whakapapa Village just 100m from the Tongariro<br />

National Park Visitor Centre. Lower in elevation with<br />

less uphill walking and exposure to alpine conditions,<br />

the Tama Lakes Track will take you through a<br />

stunning exploration of Tongariro National Park with<br />

phenomenal views of Mt Ngāuruhoe and Mt Ruapehu<br />

as well as the glistening lower and upper Tama Lakes.<br />

2.Tupapakurua Falls<br />

An absolute hidden gem in the Erua Forest<br />

Conservation Area, the Tupapakurua Falls Track is an<br />

11 km return tramp situated in National Park Village.<br />

Enter a lush green landscape of native bush with an<br />

incredible variety of plant and tree species including<br />

tawa, rimu, miro and totara creating a haven full of<br />

birdlife and melodic birdsong as you arrive to the first<br />

lookout point with beautiful views of Mt Taranaki and<br />

Mt Ruapehu. You’ll also discover a local community<br />

initiative in place called Helping Hands which allows<br />

visitors to actively help maintain the track by carrying<br />

buckets of gravel to key stations along the way.<br />

Descend to the Tupapakurua Falls Lookout and enjoy<br />

panoramic views of the cascading falls in all its glory.<br />

3.Taranaki Falls<br />

With two national parks side by side, it’s no wonder<br />

Ruapehu is a region full of enchanting waterfalls.<br />

The ever-popular Taranaki Falls Track is located in<br />

the heart of Whakapapa Village on State Highway<br />

48 in Tongariro National Park. This short day hike<br />

is an easy 6 km loop walking track and offers a<br />

spectacular variety of terrain and landscapes as you<br />

wander through beech forest, alpine shrublands,<br />

mountain streams, flowing red tussock and ancient<br />

lava flow. Soak up the views of the iconic peaks of<br />

Mt Ngāuruhoe, Mt Tongariro and Mt Ruapehu before<br />

arriving at the base of captivating Taranaki Falls as it<br />

cascades 20 m over the edge of a large lava flow.<br />

4.Waitonga Falls<br />

Located in the charming mountain town of Ohakune,<br />

also known as NZ’s carrot capital, the Waitonga Falls<br />

Track begins 11 km up Ohakune Mountain Road. An<br />

easy 4 km return via the same track, you’ll wind your<br />

way through mountain beech, kaikawaka forest and<br />

alpine wetlands, and on a clear day, enjoy majestic<br />

views of Mt Ruapehu. The 39 m Waitonga Falls is<br />

Tongariro National Park’s highest waterfall and is also<br />

a favourite amongst the local community.<br />

Top: Tupapakurua Falls, Image by Aex Pearce / Below: Waitonga Falls<br />


5.Tongariro Alpine<br />

Crossing<br />

Renowned as one of the world’s best one day<br />

hikes, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a bucket<br />

list contender that’s so incredible you’ll want<br />

to come back and do this once in a lifetime<br />

experience again. Trek 19.4 km of raw, rugged,<br />

magnificent terrain of Tongariro National Park<br />

- a UNESCO Dual World Heritage Site of<br />

natural and cultural significance and NZ’s oldest<br />

national park. In this environment, you can never<br />

underestimate the elements so it’s important<br />

to plan for your hike by bringing the right gear,<br />

checking the weather, letting someone know<br />

your plans, or better yet, going with a local<br />

guide who can also organise accommodation,<br />

track transport, and meals, so you can enjoy the<br />

Tongariro Alpine Crossing to the max.<br />

Above: Summer on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing<br />

Below: Tongariro Alpine Crossing Emerald Lakes<br />

Where to stay<br />

From adventure lodges to riverside chalets and mountainside<br />

chateaus, Ruapehu has a fantastic variety of glorious, gorgeous<br />

accommodation options that will woo you to stay an extra night or two.<br />

Weave your way through cosy alpine villages and charming mountain<br />

towns as you journey along the <strong>Adventure</strong> Highway from Taumarunui,<br />

National Park Village, Whakapapa Village, Ohakune to Waiouru.<br />

Waking up with the mountains at your doorstep or the river running by<br />

is the perfect inspiration for exploring the great outdoors. With many<br />

accommodation operators offering special summer packages, it’s the<br />

perfect time to grab a deal to stay and play in Ruapehu this summer.<br />

Where to eat, drink and be merry<br />

Active holidays mean you get to fuel up on the good stuff and indulge<br />

in a few treats as well. There’s no shortage of fantastic food and<br />

beverage to enjoy in Ruapehu where you can tour a local meadery<br />

and brewery and book a tasting, indulge in world-famous chocolate<br />

eclairs, Devonshire tea in a 5-star garden of national significance,<br />

fantastic food trucks, boutique bakeries, bakehouses, tantalising<br />

toasties and even picnic with alpacas.<br />

Safety in our greater outdoors<br />

The weather in Tongariro National Park is changeable all year<br />

round so it’s best to prepare and pack for all weather conditions. It’s<br />

important to let someone know of your plans, check for any alerts from<br />

the Department of Conservation’s website and download the free Plan<br />

my Walk app developed by the NZ Mountain Safety Council. You can<br />

learn more about it at:<br />

https://www.mountainsafety.org.nz/about-plan-my-walk/<br />

Start planning for an unforgettable Ruapehu summer at www.visitruapehu.com<br />





The Ruapehu region is home to Two Great Walks and New Zealand’s only Great Walk that is entirely on water!<br />

The variety and vast wonderlands really do make for an awesome summer holiday!<br />

For more information head to our website:

Degrees of change<br />

Are climate changes of a few degrees a cause for concern?<br />

It is so easy to do nothing. But what can you do about it?<br />

In New Zealand, we are isolated, but with that comes<br />

exposure; we are not entrenched in a large European city or<br />

in some small town in the centre of the Midwest of America,<br />

miles from the coast, we are exposed, and we joke that in New<br />

Zealand that we get ‘four seasons in one day’.<br />

That is exposure, and with that exposure should come<br />

awareness.<br />

Now we are not saying this year’s poor ski season in the North<br />

Island had anything to do with global warming, nor that our<br />

local sea levels are obviously warmer over summer for longer,<br />

and that there are now fish typically seen in the tropics now in<br />

our east coast waters, that the flooding in Australia, the forest<br />

fires in the US, the glacial melt in Antarctica might have nothing<br />

to do with global warming and climate change – but it might.<br />

As ex-president Obama said,<br />

"We are the first generation to feel the effect<br />

of climate change and the last generation<br />

who can do something about it."<br />

Surprisingly, the global temperature during the last ice age<br />

was only 7-9 degrees colder than now – now that does not<br />

seem like a lot, but even a change of 1 degree has widespread<br />

changes in regional and local temperature, creating rain which<br />

equals flood and is the cause of other extreme weather events.<br />

The government website www.genless.govt.nz has a range of<br />

important ideas, both personally and for business so that you<br />

can have an effect.<br />

This is from their everyday life list:<br />

• Eat low-carbon and minimise food waste<br />

• Choose slow fashion<br />

• Set good digital habits<br />

• Measure your impact<br />

• Shop sustainably<br />

• Invest ethically<br />

• Support business action<br />

They also have a list of practical ideas<br />

• Bike to work<br />

• Meat-free Fridays<br />

• Flight free holidays<br />

• Join conversations get a voice<br />

• Tell leaders what you want<br />

• Get Informed<br />

Check out how you can help www.genless.govt.nz/<br />

Genless website open with a simple and challenging<br />

statement...<br />

"History will only<br />

remember what we do."<br />

We are seeing even greater warming over land than oceans,<br />

moistening of the atmosphere, shifts in regional rain patterns,<br />

changes in regional temperatures, increases in extreme<br />

weather events, ocean acidification, melting glaciers, and rising<br />

sea levels the list just goes on and on.<br />

There are numerous examples of the worst climatic and<br />

catastrophic events on record in the last two years; heatwaves,<br />

tornados, cyclones, flooding, rising seas level, bushfires,<br />

and droughts. There is an equally extensive list of ‘potential’<br />

causes, now, there are always naysayers that will have us<br />

believe that it is simply nature at work, a process of natural<br />

change.<br />

But the simple observation is this. Man has had an enormous<br />

impact on the world, we have changed the natural structure,<br />

affected the chemical balance, polluted, poisoned, chopped<br />

down and consumed, and it would be incredibly naive to<br />

consider that this has no impact on the world environment.<br />



in my<br />

opinion<br />

So we reached out to some of our adventure<br />

community to see their thoughts about Global<br />

Warming and Climate Change. Here's what they<br />

had to say...<br />

Frankie Sanders<br />

Global warming, fact or fiction? Thanks for posing those<br />

questions. Great topic. I do however feel like the answers to<br />

those questions are multilayered, complex, and very difficult to<br />

summarise briefly.<br />

I've been writing blogs covering some of the environmental impacts<br />

pertinent to our business, and I find I simply can't keep the words<br />

down, in fact, each blog just leads to another one tackling another<br />

aspect of the same conversation.<br />

I think it is hard (at least for me) to be definitive and concise around<br />

such huge topics. And I actually don't think that there is any one<br />

silver bullet that can reverse our current situation.<br />

Lauren Murray<br />

Global warming, fact or fiction? Totally fact. I’ve<br />

noticed snow coming less - winters shortened,<br />

summers lasting longer. Seasons are out of balance.<br />

Both in NZ and I’ve noticed it overseas.<br />

Is there any one thing that you personally feel we<br />

should all be doing to assist in solving the issue?<br />

We all need to cut back on eating meat. I really don’t<br />

think there’s a more obvious and easier achieved<br />

solution than that.<br />

I no longer eat meat, and do my best with reduction<br />

of all animal products. I use reusable items where<br />

possible, and avoid certain products/brands/companies<br />

depending on their impact on the climate.<br />

We aren’t too late but, we aren’t far. My kids will see<br />

the damage exponentially. And I am skeptical that<br />

it will change. Humans are, on a whole, too greedy<br />

and selfish. And travelling this year again has made<br />

me more sure of this, unfortunately. I have seen just<br />

how behind or how far to go certain communities<br />

and people, which make up HUGE population (i.e.<br />

Americans/America) have before they get to where<br />

it feels like we in NZ (where work is STILL needed)<br />

currently are.<br />

There are many actionable ways people can be involved in being<br />

part of the solution for our environmental situation, and different<br />

people will find some outlets easier than others. So I think it's about<br />

providing choices and options for engagement not pinning down<br />

'one' thing, which seems pretty confrontational.<br />

Whilst we are pretty much at a crisis point in climate change we<br />

have to believe that we can still bring the ship around, without<br />

belief, there can be no collective agency. As Margaret Mead would<br />

say "Never doubt that a small group of [organised] thoughtful,<br />

committed citizens can change the world; indeed, it's the only thing<br />

that ever has". (brackets added).<br />

And whilst that is a pretty fanciful idea in the face of the climate<br />

crisis, 'small groups' are our environmental movements working<br />

to provide those realistically achievable changes, whether it be<br />

people's lifestyle choices, lobbying the government, or challenging<br />

and disrupting corporate stasis. What they all share is the belief<br />

that we can have a collective impact.<br />

I think it is important for people to remember that we do all have<br />

agency in our decisions and that Big Corp is affected by all of<br />

us, and whilst it seems that we are such tiny particles in the<br />

big machine, we create the 'demand' in 'supply and demand', if<br />

everyone stopped buying a product tomorrow that company could<br />

not exist.<br />

The other part of this is if we cannot escape our demand (i.e.<br />

you have a gasoline car so need petroleum) then we also can<br />

have our collective voice heard on the way that Big Corp conduct<br />

themselves, holding companies to account, and supporting<br />

companies that have environmentally focused decision making.<br />

Honestly, I could talk for days...<br />

Global warming, fact or fiction? Fact: We used to get way more snow on Mt Taranaki and<br />

Ruapehu and for a longer winter. Now we are lucky to get 1 day up Taranaki and 1 week up<br />

Ruapehu.<br />

Is there any one thing that you personally feel we should all be doing to assist in<br />

solving the issue? There’s so many things that can affect it and people can’t do everything<br />

but yea if we all tried to do a little bit more, even one thing each, then it might help. Better to<br />

try than to wonder what if! I like to think I’m helping by being vegetarian and very conscious<br />

of where the things I buy come from and how they’re etc. So I think it’s possible that we<br />

could all eat less/no meat.<br />

Paige Hareb<br />

Are we simply too late to fix the issue? Who knows! But I’d rather us all try now than look<br />

back and say ‘shoulda, coulda, woulda’<br />


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Banks Track<br />

Akaroa<br />

New Zealand<br />

BANKS<br />

TRACK,<br />

Akaroa<br />

Where in the world could an adventuring hiker traverse the<br />

rim of an ancient volcanic complex, with sweeping panoramas<br />

out across open ocean and inwards up an 8 mile volcanic<br />

harbour? Where could you spend the night inside a private<br />

white-flippered penguin sanctuary, see the world’s smallest<br />

dolphins with their rounded fins, watch fur seals in numbers<br />

and spot many rare land and marine birds? Where could you<br />

hear a dawn chorus, such a cacophony that you will never<br />

forget it? And walk through the famous “Fools and Dreamers”<br />

Hinewai Reserve, 1500 hectares of native forest, with its<br />

ancient beech, tree ferns, fuchsia and rapidly regenerating<br />

native flora and fauna? All this and more on the Banks Track!<br />

This unique, extinct, highly eroded, volcanic complex<br />

forming Banks Peninsula, is situated east of Christchurch<br />

on New Zealand’s South Island, providing the remarkably<br />

varied landscape of the Banks Track. It starts by winding up<br />

through open farmland at the far south-eastern end, boasting<br />

widespread views from Ōnuku along the inner harbour and<br />

out over 'the heads'. Walkers climb up over the crater rim at<br />

Trig GG (699m,) with its 360 degree panorama, from which<br />

you can see Aoraki / Mt Cook, 230km away, on a clear<br />

day! The Track descends one of the outer valleys, through<br />

Tutakākāhikura Scenic Reserve (full of ancient red beech<br />

trees), following the stream where rock formations have<br />

created multiple waterfalls, down into Flea Bay, the home of<br />

the Pōhatu Penguin Reserve. From here the Track follows the<br />

outer ocean coastline, along spectacular cliff tops, dropping<br />

down past Seal Cove and alongside the Sooty Shearwater<br />

Reserve, then on into Stony Bay. On the final day, the Track<br />

turns and heads inland following another outer valley up<br />

through Hinewai with its verdant, regenerating and ancient<br />

native forest, crossing back over the crater rim. From here<br />

there are stunning views south and east across the vast<br />

Pacific and westward to sheltered Akaroa harbour. Beyond<br />

are the Southern Alps and Kaikoura mountains.<br />

3 spectacular days and 3 magical nights<br />

Hike the volcanic hills of Banks Peninsula<br />

Enjoy panoramas from the crater rim and along coastal<br />

cliff tops. Walk through lush native forest with tree ferns,<br />

waterfalls and abundant bird life. Stay in secluded bays and<br />

gaze into our magnificent night skies. This walk Is self guided<br />

and self catered, but we carry your bags. NZD 390 pp<br />

bankstrack.co.nz<br />

Volcanic activity, between 11 and 6 million years ago, led<br />

to the formation of two overlapping volcanic cones. When<br />

eruptions ceased, the cones were gradually eroded to about<br />

half their original height flooding a major south facing valley.<br />

Walkers can be reassured that there is no known magma<br />

chamber beneath the volcano and there has not been any<br />

sign of volcanic activity in the last 5 million years!<br />

In 1989, a few neighbouring Banks Peninsula farming<br />

families, together with the newly founded Hinewai Native<br />

Forest Reserve, set out to rescue their livelihoods in the face<br />

of a farming downturn and established New Zealand’s first<br />

private walking track. 33 years on, through their intensive<br />

conservation efforts, they have rescued much more than<br />

themselves! All the Banks Track landowners are passionate<br />

about conservation and consequently, following years of<br />

forest regeneration, dedicated trapping of predators and<br />

(ongoing!) hard work, this track offers a feast of Kiwi native<br />

flora and fauna.<br />

Ōnuku where walkers arrive for their first night’s<br />

accommodation, is still maintained as farmland by Tristan<br />

Hamilton (a professional trapper) and boasts wonderful views<br />

in all directions. The iconic New Zealandtui were re-released<br />

on the Peninsula in 2009,having become almost extinct here.

They are now flourishing at Ōnuku and can<br />

be seen with bellbirds, slivereyes, kereru<br />

(native pigeon),fantails, welcome swallows<br />

and many other native birds in the gardens.<br />

Ōnuku faces north and west over the<br />

harbour and their sunsets are legendary!<br />

On the first day’s walking there are two<br />

side tracks. One runs along a ridge through<br />

the new DOC Nīkau Palm Reserve. From<br />

the ridge end, one has a glorious view<br />

over The Akaroa Heads to the ocean. The<br />

second takes you on a short detour to Look<br />

Out Rock an ancient sentry post where one<br />

can look both ways to see the full length of<br />

the inner harbour.<br />

Banks Track offers exceptional marine<br />

and forest birdlife. On the second night<br />

walkers sleep in the heart of the Pōhatu<br />

Penguin Reserve. An evening penguin tour<br />

is included in the Track experience and<br />

you can learn about the fascinating story<br />

behind Francis and Shireen Helps’ efforts<br />

to rescue and establish their penguin<br />

colony which is now flourishing. When<br />

Francis was a boy, penguins walked the<br />

streets of Akaroa! However, penguins are<br />

ground nesting and the population was<br />

decimated by predators. The Helps took<br />

over farming Flea Bay with just a handful<br />

in residence and dedicated themselves<br />

to creating a sanctuary for them. Flea<br />

Bay has 1260 breeding penguin pairs<br />

– the largest little penguin population<br />

on mainland New Zealand. If you are<br />

lucky, watching these little white-flippered<br />

penguins come on shore out of the water<br />

is magical and you will see them close up,<br />

as guides monitor nesting boxes, often<br />

with their young during the main breeding<br />

season Oct - Dec. After the night in Flea<br />

Bay, there is an option for a morning kayak<br />

through the Pōhatu Marine Reserve,<br />

the first marine reserve created on the<br />

east coast of South Island. Flea Bay has<br />

abundant fur seals (curious seals often<br />

like swimming round your kayak!) and the<br />

round finned hector dolphins, which are<br />

the smallest dolphins in the world and only<br />

found in New Zealand.<br />

Mark and Soni Armstrong live at Stony Bay<br />

on a farm that has been in the family for<br />

over 125 years and, alongside protecting<br />

their own little penguins over the years,<br />

they have helped bring the peninsula’s<br />

last sooty shearwater (otherwise known as<br />

mutton birds or tītī) colony back from the<br />

brink of extinction.Stony Bay was down to<br />

three birds in 1999 when Mark decided to<br />

act. He built a predator-proof chicken-wire<br />

fence following the contours of the steeply<br />

descending paddocks, where the birds<br />

burrow along the cliff edge. A year after<br />

the fence was built there were five or six<br />

eggs, and today the colony of about 50<br />

nesting holes – a "hive of activity" – is the<br />

only mainland colony on the peninsula.<br />

Traps inside and outside the protected<br />

enclosure provide added predator control,<br />

and scientific and conservation groups<br />

support the protection work. It is here at<br />

Stony Bay that the dawn chorus on an<br />

early summer morning has to be heard to<br />

be believed! This characterful and creative<br />

collection of accommodations, the third<br />

night on the Banks Track, is an absolute<br />

favourite with all the walkers. It was hand<br />

built by Mark and crafted mainly from<br />

home-milled macrocarpa and demolition<br />

finds, with a pool table, an outdoor hot bath<br />

and a shower built into a large gnarled<br />

macrocarpa stump. You can have a bath<br />

under the stars and gaze into magnificent<br />

unpolluted night skies.<br />

On the third and final day, Banks Track<br />

walkers are lucky enough to walk through<br />

Hinewai Reserve on a newly created<br />

track up through Stony Bay valley to the<br />

crater rim, before dropping back down<br />

into Akaroa. Hinewai is fast becoming a<br />

legend and is inspiring people round the<br />

globe as to how we can use Nature to<br />

do much of the regeneration work for us.<br />

This ever expanding reserve was started<br />

35 years ago when Maruice White raised<br />

funds to purchase conservation land on<br />

the Peninsula. He found Hugh Wilson,<br />

the renowned botanist, who has made<br />

Hinewai his lifetime’s work from the first<br />

day. A wonderfully inspiring video has<br />

been released “Fools and Dreamers”<br />

which has been watched by hundreds of<br />

thousands over the planet on You Tube.<br />

Most of the reserve is a mosaic of native<br />

forest in various stages of development,<br />

including old growth red beech forest.<br />

Ancient podocarp trees (tōtara, mataī<br />

and kahikatea) survive here. The biggest<br />

podocarp and beech trees are several<br />

centuries old. The track traverses tall<br />

forest, kānuka forest, mixed hardwood<br />

forest (fuchsia, māhoe, fivefinger,<br />

sevenfinger, broadleaf, kōwhai, kaikōmako,<br />

putaputāwētā, lacebark, ribbonwood, etc.),<br />

gorse, broom, grassy clearings, bracken,<br />

bluffs and tussockland. More than 60<br />

species of fern, including six species of<br />

tree fern, grow on Hinewai.<br />

Whilst many of New Zealand’s other<br />

walks have become crowded, here only a<br />

maximum of 16 walkers per day can set<br />

out. You walk at your own pace in your own<br />

time. Self guided and self catered, but we<br />

carry your packs from accommodation to<br />

accommodation. Traversing such a vast<br />

landscape each walker feels he/she has<br />

it to themselves. Banks Track offers a<br />

chance to re-engage with the natural world.<br />

It offers a uniquely Kiwi experience.<br />

www.bankstrack.co.nz<br />

www.facebook.com/BanksTrack/<br />

Instagram @bankstrack<br />

Phone: 03 304 7612<br />

Email: bankstrack@xtra.co.nz<br />


three go<br />

wild in<br />

taranaki<br />

By Lynne Dickinson<br />

I have spent a bit of time in Taranaki, back in the day when<br />

the World Surf Tour used to visit its shores. Taranaki, and in<br />

particular, Surf Highway 45 that heads around the coast, is world<br />

renowned and this was almost the extent of my exploration of the<br />

region. So, when a friend suggested a few days exploring New<br />

Plymouth and the surrounding area, I was keen to go.<br />

Flights, accommodation and car hire booked we got together<br />

to plan the days ahead. High on the list of things we wanted to<br />

do was to explore Mt Taranaki. (In the dialect of Taranaki Iwi,<br />

mountain is referred to as mounga rather than maunga so we<br />

will use this spelling when referring to Taranaki). I had read a lot<br />

about the summit hike and knew a few people first-hand who had<br />

escaped a close call on the mounga when the weather suddenly<br />

turned bad. However, I knew little else about the tracks and trails<br />

surrounding the mountain, of which there are many.<br />

Mt Taranaki has an elevation of 2,518 meters and was first<br />

ascended in 1839. It’s a dormant volcano and the highest point in<br />

the North Island behind Mt Ruapehu. According to Māori legend,<br />

Mt Taranaki once stood with the mountains of the central North<br />

Island until a dispute over the maiden Pīhanga had Taranaki flee<br />

his home carving out the Whanganui River on his journey to the<br />

coast.<br />

The area surrounding the mounga became Egmont National<br />

Park in 1900, and the mounga was given an English name of Mt<br />

Egmont by Captain Cook in 1770. The mounga is now referred<br />

to by its traditional Māori name of Taranaki Mounga, with Egmont<br />

National Park dually known as Te Papakura o Taranaki.<br />

There are a few main entry points to the Egmont National Park/Te<br />

Papakura o Taranaki; Egmont Road on the north side; York Road<br />

and Pembroke Road on the east and Manaia Road on the south.<br />

After some local advice we decided to do the Pouākai Tarns Track<br />

but headed up the wrong access road and found ourselves at<br />

the Taranaki/Egmont National Park Visitor Centre. Explaining our<br />

“wrong turn” we asked for advice and with the clouds closing in<br />

they suggested making the most of the fine weather we had now<br />

and heading up the Holly Hut Track instead and coming back via<br />

the Veronica Loop Track when we felt we’d walked far enough.<br />


Mt Taranaki as seen from the ocean at Back Beach - Image compliments of Venture Taranaki<br />

Leaving the Visitors Centre, the trail followed a boardwalk<br />

through the bush before reaching a series of steps that seemed<br />

to go on forever. It’s no surprise that many of the hikes on<br />

Taranaki Mounga require some climbing, the mounga has a<br />

distinctive cone shape with only one way to go, and that was<br />

up.<br />

The climb up the steps took us to a platform that looked out<br />

over the whole of North Taranaki. We were lucky that the<br />

weather was still clear, and the clouds were only obscuring<br />

the top of the mountain so we could still see all the way up<br />

the coast. A few more metres further up and the bush cleared,<br />

and we found ourselves in typical alpine terrain of tussock<br />

and rocks. With the clearing of the surrounding bush, the<br />

temperature seemed to fall sharply, and you could see how<br />

easily people get in trouble on alpine hikes. Note to make sure<br />

you pack for all weather conditions…<br />

From here the track lead steeply up a scoria-like path before<br />

edging round the side of the mounga. We cautiously scrambled<br />

over what appeared to be a dried riverbed (surprising<br />

considering the amount of rain we had been experiencing) with<br />

large rocky boulders littering the floor, before continuing past<br />

the impressive towering lava columns of the Dieffenbach Cliffs.<br />

Above: The trail map<br />

Right: On our way down<br />

from the Holly Hut Track<br />

just before we reached<br />

the steps. The views from<br />

here were incredible.<br />

Image by Linda Lennon<br />


We had been walking for a couple of hours before the temperature<br />

dropped considerably so we decided to head back before the<br />

cloud came in and obscured our views. I’m often reluctant to do<br />

a tramp that is in and out on the same track; however, facing the<br />

opposite direction exposed us to a completely different view so it<br />

was just as enjoyable on the way down.<br />

When we reached the fork for the Veronica Loop Track we left the<br />

steps behind and followed a clearly marked trail through the bush<br />

back to the Visitors Center. Their advice had been excellent so I<br />

would thoroughly recommend chatting to them before setting off<br />

on your hike for the day.<br />

The second day of our adventure we had decided to explore the<br />

local area by bike. Having flown down, we hired bikes from Cycle<br />

Inn in New Plymouth and set off to explore the New Plymouth<br />

Coastal Walkway. The walkway covers a distance of 13.2km from<br />

Port Taranaki to the eastern side of Bell Block Beach and is paved<br />

the whole way. We set off alongside the water at the Wind Wand<br />

and headed out to Bell Block.<br />

The Coastal Walkway is an excellent way to get around, great<br />

for walking, running, skating and e-scootering. We followed the<br />

shoreline down to Fitzroy Beach, over the Te Rewa Rewa Bridge<br />

and past the Ngāmotu Golf Course before heading slightly inland<br />

past the Taranaki Bike Park and finishing at Bell Block Beach.<br />

The ride was easy, and we had plans to spend the afternoon<br />

exploring some of the other biking areas close to town; however,<br />

on our return trip the weather changed dramatically and we found<br />

ourselves riding into a strong headwind against a battering of sleet<br />

and hail. So, we ditched the bikes and went shopping instead!<br />

There are plenty of unique shops in Taranaki so after an afternoon<br />

exploring we all came home with a holiday keepsake. We also<br />

found some great places to eat, our morning routine started with<br />

breakfast and coffee at Chaos, a cool cafe with great atmosphere<br />

and great food.<br />

There are so many areas to explore by bike in Taranaki; Lake<br />

Mangamahoe has an excellent mountain bike park not far from<br />

the city, with trails for all levels and there are numerous cycleways<br />

to explore in the region, including the Forgotten World Highway<br />

timber trail, Kiwi Road Loop, Uruti Valley Loop Trail, Te Henui<br />

Walkway, and the Huatoki Walkway. Next time we will drive down<br />

and bring our bikes for sure.<br />

The following morning we started the day with a short walk to<br />

Pukepura Park. Situated in the heart of New Plymouth, the<br />

52ha park is one of NZ's premier botanical gardens and is truly<br />

beautiful. It is also host to a string of events and concerts including<br />

the annual TSB Festival of Lights and is well worth a visit.<br />

We then headed back to the mounga, this time to the southern<br />

access point to explore Dawson Falls. After the weather had<br />

turned cold the day before we had heard that there had been<br />

snow falling in Stratford, but nothing could prepare us for the<br />

scene that greeted us on the drive up to Dawson Falls Visitor<br />

Centre. We felt like we had driven into a scene from Narnia, with<br />

snow covering the ground and trees around us.<br />

We had not anticipated snow at this time of year, and we were<br />

poorly prepared. We had hoped to walk up to Wilkies Pools and<br />

complete the circuit to Dawson Falls but our lack of appropriate<br />

clothing for the conditions meant we restricted ourselves to the<br />

shorter circuit walk to Dawson Falls just to be on the safe side.<br />

It was a magical experience. The forest was like a fairytale and<br />

Dawson Falls impressive with the snow covering the rocks around<br />

us.<br />

Top to bottom: Helen walking Holly Hut Track Walk<br />

The bridge at Pukepura Park<br />

Our last day at Dawson Falls in the snow (Image by random stranger)<br />

With our trip coming to an end we felt we had hardly touched<br />

what there was to see and do in Taranaki and so will definitely be<br />

back… this time just a little better prepared.

On a fine day,Te Rewa Rewa bridge creates an impressive frame for Mt Taranaki - Image compliments of Venture Taranaki<br />

There are loads of places to bike in Taranaki; left - The Forgotten Highway<br />

Right top: Lake Mangamahoe / Bottom right: The foreshore Coastal Walkway<br />

Images complements of Venture Taranaki<br />


discover taranaki<br />

Taranaki has so much to offer.<br />

Top to bottom: Surfing year round<br />

Govett-Brewster Art Gallery<br />

Horse Riding on Tongaporutu Beach<br />


With world-class surf breaks, famous black-sand beaches, the<br />

picture-perfect peak of Taranaki Maunga, and the title of NZ’s<br />

sunniest region, Taranaki has so much on offer all year round. With a<br />

dynamic events calendar, spectacular parks and gardens, adventure<br />

activities galore, a vibrant food scene, and world-renowned arts and<br />

cultural experiences, Taranaki is a region truly like no other.<br />


With a bustling food and beverage scene, your foodie journey around<br />

Taranaki isn’t limited! Many eateries offer paddock-to-plate style<br />

menus spotlighting local produce, so visiting foodies are in for a treat.<br />

Locally roasted coffee, craft beer, and talented chefs have all helped<br />

to create a lively café, restaurant, and bar scene like no other.<br />


Taranaki is brimming with creativity, and there’s no shortage of local<br />

art galleries or studios to visit to discover your own piece of Taranaki<br />

art. Head to the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery/Len Lye Centre, New<br />

Zealand’s only contemporary art gallery, or Lysaght Watt Gallery,<br />

a community gallery in South Taranaki. Percy Thomson Gallery in<br />

Stratford is a free public art gallery.<br />


If you’ve completed one the many stunning tracks or trails around<br />

Taranaki Maunga, relax and unwind at The Floatation Sanctuary<br />

on Devon Street in New Plymouth. Hit your reset button by floating<br />

weightlessly in a luxurious mineral-rich environment – great for<br />

healing tight or sore muscles.<br />


Check out local history in South Taranaki with a visit to Tawhiti<br />

Museum and adjoining Traders & Whalers, where history comes to<br />

life in incredible detail. Widely regarded as the best private museum<br />

in Aotearoa, Tawhiti Museum features thousands of life-size models<br />

and scale figures to tell the history of Taranaki.<br />

Start planning your escape to Taranaki today – find more inspiration<br />

for things to see and do this summer at www.taranaki.co.nz/visit.

Pouākai Crossing<br />




Discover a region brimming with unique attractions and stunning<br />

natural landscapes to entice even the most intrepid of adventurers.<br />

With world-class surf breaks, famous black-sand beaches, the<br />

picture-perfect peak of Taranaki Maunga, and the title of NZ’s<br />

sunniest region, Taranaki has so much on offer all year round.<br />

With a dynamic events calendar, spectacular parks, walkways and<br />

gardens, adventure activities galore, a vibrant food scene, and worldrenowned<br />

arts and cultural experiences, Taranaki is a region truly like<br />

no other.<br />

Start planning your escape to Taranaki today.<br />

Make a weekend of it!<br />

For more inspiration on things to see and do in Taranaki, visit: taranaki.co.nz/visit<br />


X posure<br />

Photographer: Matt Power,<br />

Athlete: Unknown,<br />

Location: Siargao Island, Philippines<br />

Matt Power / Red Bull Illume

ALL I<br />

WANT 4<br />

XMAS<br />


merrell Hydro Moc Elements - Air $109.00<br />


garmin inreach $549.00<br />


hydro flask 621ml, 710mL & 946mL Trail Series $69.99-$89.99<br />


tasty chicken mash $9.99 - $14.99<br />


Kiwi Camping Rover Lite 3cm Self-Inflating Mat $109.00<br />


Sea to Summit Camp Kitchen Tool Kit 10 Piece $69.99<br />


red paddle sport range $2199.95 - $2499.95<br />


Kiwi Camping Folding Trolley $269.00<br />


Exped Black Ice 45 Pack $339.99<br />



usiness<br />

on a mission<br />

Red Paddle Co’s mission is to inspire<br />

and enable adventure through innovative,<br />

environmentally responsible products<br />

that Never Compromise on performance,<br />

safety and reliability.<br />

Since the humble beginnings back in<br />

2008, Red Paddle Co have developed and<br />

were responsible for the global adoption of<br />

SUP. This new breed of board is easier to<br />

transport and store, allowed access to new<br />

waterways and offered a greater durability<br />

than their harder counterparts.<br />

Red’s eco-directive sits at the heart of<br />

production creation, nothing goes into<br />

production without thorough testing<br />

and research to ensure longevity and<br />

sustainability. The board factory is zero<br />

waste and almost all the packaging is<br />

100% recyclable or compostable, or soon<br />

will be.<br />

Innovation is at the core and TEC AIR is<br />

Red Paddle Co’s promise to never stop<br />

perfecting, developing, and innovating<br />

only the very best boards. Red Paddle<br />

Co have spent over 14 years learning,<br />

refining, and testing new techniques to<br />

tailor precise performance and consistent<br />

characteristics into their boards.<br />

A Red Paddle Co board is a tough nut<br />

to crack. Substantially stronger than<br />

its hard board cousins and any other<br />

inflatable SUPs on the market, a Red<br />

Paddle Co board has a much more<br />

robust construction and design ensuring<br />

the safety of the paddler when out on<br />

the water. The unique technologies and<br />

techniques when building the board are<br />

patent protected and a closely guarded<br />

secret - so you won’t find this strength and<br />

resilience in any other boards.<br />

What makes Red different<br />

• Pioneers in the SUP industry since 2008;<br />

the longest standing SUP network in the<br />

world<br />

• True to our core - everything created is<br />

designed in house<br />

• Built to last<br />

• Pressure – well-designed and easy to<br />

inflate to the correct PSI.<br />

• Unrivalled performance<br />

• Guarantee – an extended 5-year<br />

warranty once your new board is<br />

registered with Red Paddle Co<br />

• Experts in design – Tec Air technology,<br />

MSL, V-Hull, Speed Tail, Forward Flex<br />

Control<br />

Ride range<br />

The all-round Ride range of boards are a<br />

great option for beginners but equally as<br />

fun and versatile for more experienced<br />

paddlers looking for easy-access, allround<br />

adventures. The Ride boards are<br />

incredibly tough and stable, performing<br />

well in a variety of conditions and<br />

waterways. Available in a range of sizes<br />

from 10’ 0” to 10’ 8”.<br />

Compact range<br />

The Red Paddle Co Compact Board is<br />

half the size to carry and store but double<br />

the fun. The Compact boards fold out<br />

to full size SUPs, providing unlimited<br />

opportunities for adventure. All Compact<br />

boards come fitted with a comfortable<br />

carry handle, adjustable cargo system and<br />

removable click fin system to allow the<br />

ultimate ‘packability’ of the board and are<br />

available in three sizes: the 8’ 10“, 9’ 6”,<br />

11’ 0” and 12’ 0”.<br />

Voyager range<br />

If you’re heading off on a multi-day trip<br />

or are just looking to go a bit further with<br />

a heap of gear, these are the boards for<br />

you. Its increased length and thickness<br />

compared to an all-round board make it<br />

an ideal board for cruising through longer<br />

outings, and our patented RSS system<br />

offers unrivalled stiffness. Available in 12’<br />

0” and 12’ 6”.<br />

Sport range<br />

Built for speed and performance, the Red<br />

Sport inflatable paddle boards sleek shape<br />

and the drawn-out nose gives maximum<br />

glide across the water, meaning you can<br />

paddle further for longer. Available sizes<br />

are 12’ 0”, 12’ 6” and the Voyager Plus in<br />

13’ 2”.<br />

“You haven’t tried paddleboarding until you<br />

have tried a Red”<br />

Available throughout NZ from certified Red<br />

Paddle Co retailers.<br />

www.red.equipment/pages/find-a-shop<br />


Red Waterproof Cool Bag 18 & 30L<br />

18 Litres $349.95 – 30 Litres $379.95<br />

With thermal lock insulation and Armour<br />

Tech fabric, drinks stay colder for longer,<br />

keeps water out, ice frozen for up to 72<br />

hours and a tension system secures the<br />

bag to your board.<br />


Red Paddle Co Ride Range $1,899.95 - $2,199.95<br />

If you’re looking for a versatile board that will<br />

perform in all conditions, then look no further than<br />

the Ride Inflatable SUP Range from Red Paddle<br />

Co. A popular inflatable SUP for all the family, these<br />

boards are designed for all-round use – whether<br />

you enjoy the thrill of paddling in the surf, or the<br />

tranquillity of calm lakes.<br />


Red Paddle Co Sport Range $2,199.95 - $2,499.95<br />

For paddlers who are looking for speed and<br />

performance, the Sport Inflatable SUP Range offers a<br />

step up from the Ride family - available in a choice of<br />

colours….purple or classic blue. Imagine how excited<br />

you'll feel unrolling your new board in anticipation of<br />

enjoying the open water.<br />


Red Pro Change Robe Evo $349.95<br />

Uniquely breathable with the softest lining,<br />

moisture wicking and super warm yet<br />

lightweight providing maximum warmth<br />

whilst outdoors, this premium robe<br />

ensures users stay dry and warm.<br />


Red Waterproof Kit Bag 40 & 60L<br />

40 Litres $299.95 – 60 Litres $349.95<br />

A waterproof duffel and backpack,<br />

with stitched and taped seams,<br />

heavy-duty straps and pockets<br />

made from strong rip stock material<br />

that is abrasion resistant.<br />



osprey Sportlite 25 $199.99<br />

Confidently step out on the trail with the<br />

Sportlite 25, one of our most minimalist<br />

technical day packs. Carry all of your<br />

essentials with the convenience of panelloading<br />

design and simple, clean internal<br />

organization. An AirScape® backpanel<br />

and suspension system moves with you<br />

dynamically and keeps your carry stable<br />

and ventilated. Made with 100% recycled<br />

materials. Two size unisex fit.<br />

• Trekking pole loops w/ upper compression<br />

strap capture<br />

• Stretch side water bottle pockets<br />

• Padded hipbelt with one zippered pocket<br />

and one open stretch mesh pocket<br />

Find a Stockist:<br />


cotopaxi Allpa Travel Packs $349.99 - $499.99<br />

Intuitively designed, Allpa Travel Packs make it easy to<br />

stay organised on impromptu roadies and international<br />

adventures. Available in 42L, 35L & 28L volumes.<br />


cotopaxi Bataan 3L Hip Pack – Del Día $69.99<br />

This Hip Pack keeps necessities<br />

secure, organised, and close at hand.<br />

Our Del Día collection utilises off-cut<br />

material, making no two Bataans alike.<br />


exped radical 45 Gear Bag $199.90<br />

Quickly converts from backpack to<br />

duffel, has padded straps, an extralong<br />

zip to the main compartment,<br />

compression straps, side zip for<br />

additional access when on the go and<br />

attachment loops. Manufactured from<br />

recycled materials.<br />


exped Ice 45 Pack $339.99<br />

Minimalist, lightweight roll-top pack,<br />

ideal for the mountains. Features<br />

a high-quality, waterproof ripstop<br />

nylon, a white inner for more easily<br />

seeing your gear inside, a slim,<br />

removable padded back for a closeto-body<br />

fit and stability, a removable<br />

hip-belt and a weatherproof front<br />

pocket. 820g (660g stripped weight)<br />


Lowe alpine Aeon 22L Backpack $249.95<br />

The Aeon 22L backpack made with<br />

lightweight, tough TriShield fabric<br />

features top-loading main entry, lid/<br />

front/side stretch pockets, walking<br />

pole attachments, ice axe loops<br />

and hydration compatibility.<br />



Warthog Classic II Elite Sharpener $199.00<br />

3 Adjustable Angles(20,25 & 30), 325<br />

Grit Natural Diamond Rods, Metal Frame<br />

Construction, Durable Powdercoat Finish,<br />

Finishing Steels.<br />


Garmin - In Reach $549.00 (NZD)<br />

inReach satellite technology and a satellite<br />

subscription, you can stay in touch globally.<br />

You can send and receive messages,<br />

navigate your route, track and share your<br />

journey and, if necessary, trigger an SOS<br />

to get help from a 24/7 global emergency<br />

response coordination centre via the 100%<br />

global Iridium® satellite network.<br />

WWW.GARMIN.COM/EN-NZ/P/793265<br />

equip<br />

yourself!<br />

sunsaver classic 16,000 mah solar power bank $119.00<br />

Built tough for the outdoors and with a massive<br />

battery capacity you can keep all your devices<br />

charged no matter where your adventure<br />

takes you.<br />


Komperdell Carbon C3 Pro Compact Trekking Pole $139.99<br />

3-section ultralight, length-adjustable trekking<br />

pole with an expanded grip zone that is fantastic<br />

on steep terrain. Carbon upper sections and a<br />

Titanal.HF lower shaft, durable external locking<br />

mechanisms. Changeable basket and a tungsten/<br />

carbide tip. 90cm-120cm. 201g<br />


rescueme PLB1 $589.98<br />

Wherever you are, at sea, on land,<br />

the rescueME PLB1 provides the<br />

reassurance that global emergency<br />

services can be alerted by the press of<br />

a button.<br />

The rescueMe PLB1 can be operated<br />

with a single hand in even the most<br />

challenging situations. A simple springloaded<br />

flap covers the activation button<br />

preventing inadvertent use. rescueME<br />

PLB1 works with the only officially<br />

recognised worldwide dedicated search<br />

and rescue satellite network (operated<br />

by Cospas Sarsat). As this is funded by<br />

governments there are NO CHARGES<br />

to use this service.<br />

Available through all leading sports and<br />

recreation retailers and online.<br />


Low Prices Everyday<br />

Free NZ Shipping on<br />

orders over $150 for<br />

members<br />

Members Earn Equip+<br />

Loyalty Points<br />

shop online or instore<br />

equipoutdoors.co.nz<br />

62 Killarney Road,<br />

Frankton, Hamilton,<br />

New Zealand<br />

P: 0800 22 67 68<br />

E: sales@equipoutdoors.co.nz

Kiwi Camping Folding Trolley $269.00<br />

The perfect accessory for lovers of the outdoors.<br />

Easily move your tent, camping gear and mount<br />

your chilly when too heavy to carry.<br />


sea to summit Drylite Towel XXL $69.99<br />

When comfort, weight and packed size matters, the Drylite<br />

Towel is perfect. Made from a luxuriously soft microfiber<br />

fabric with a 'ultrasuede' finish, this towel is super absorbent<br />

and quick drying - plus it packs down small.<br />

• Made of 80% recycled polyester, 20% nylon<br />

• Very packable- it's lighter and more compact than our Tek<br />

Towel<br />

• Hang loop with press stud<br />

• Mesh-faced storage pouch<br />

• Machine washable<br />


kiwi camping boost lED light with Powerbank $89.99<br />

Bright LED light with power bank to illuminate<br />

your tent and charge devices on the go.<br />

Features 11 light modes including SOS<br />

signal, built-in magnets and hanging hook.<br />


sea to summit Camp Kitchen Tool Kit 10 Piece $69.99<br />

Hang this compact kit in your camp kitchen and you'll<br />

have most things you need on hand to create - and<br />

clean up after - gourmet outdoor meals. The kit contains<br />

everything from empty leakproof bottles for oils and<br />

condiments, to a folding spatula and serving spoon, to a<br />

pot scrubber, washcloth and dishcloth.<br />


kiwi camping Flexi Light Strip White/Orange $79.99<br />

A 1.3m long LED strip fitted with white/<br />

orange LED lights to illuminate your tent<br />

and deter bugs and insects. IP65-waterresistant<br />

and includes carry bag.<br />


Chair Zero High-back $299.99<br />

With a taller back for added support and<br />

comfort, the Chair Zero High-back has the<br />

same DNA as Chair Zero, an ultralight,<br />

compact, go-anywhere chair. The Chair Zero<br />

High-Back is a good choice for activities<br />

where weight saving is top of mind, such as<br />

backpacking, kayak tours, moto-touring or<br />

bikepacking.<br />


Jetboil stash $299.95<br />

The Lightest and Most Compact<br />

Jetboil Ever. We know your<br />

dreams are big and ambitious.<br />

Which is why we designed the<br />

all-new Stash to be lightweight<br />

and compact, maximizing your<br />

pack space without sacrificing<br />

that iconic Jetboil performance.<br />

At 7.1 oz or 200 g, the .8L Stash<br />

is 40% lighter than the .8L Zip.<br />


OOahh Recovery Slides – Men’s & Women’s $99.99<br />

When you slide on a pair of lightweight<br />

OOFOS you will instantly feel the support<br />

and comfort your joints and muscles are<br />

needing after adventures.<br />


merrell Hydro Moc Elements - Air $109.00<br />

Built with the outdoors in mind, the Hydro Moc<br />

has taken the world by storm. To continue the<br />

excitement the limited edition Hydro Moc Elements<br />

is inspired by the 4 basic elements. Using<br />

advanced construction techniques, this easy on<br />

/ easy off shoe is more durable than others of its<br />

kind–for days spent in and around water.<br />


Rumpl Everywhere Towels $89.99<br />

Designed to repel sand, odour, and stains - our<br />

Everywhere Towels are also lightweight, packable, and<br />

quick drying – making them an essential piece of gear.<br />


hydro flask 18L Soft Cooler Tote & 20L Soft Cooler Back Pack<br />

$419.99-$499.99<br />

Our Day Escape Bags are designed to deliver<br />

36-hours of cold insulation in a lightweight, leakproof<br />

and durable construction. We’re here to fuel your<br />

adventure.<br />


Merrell Hydro Runner - Men’s $179.00<br />

Built with an EVA shell and breathable mesh upper for a<br />

lightweight and flexible fit, the Hydro Runner is a perfect<br />

choice for staying cool on busy days. Merrell sticky rubber<br />

outsole with durable traction that grips when and where<br />

you need it, you can look good without slowing down.<br />


SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 $329.90<br />

The Alp Trainer 2 is a low-cut alpine hiking and trekking shoe built for<br />

enhanced performance and control in a wide spectrum of mountain<br />

terrain. Its high-quality, thick suede leather upper ensures good comfort<br />

and protection and is further reinforced with a full 360° rubber rand to see<br />

off rock and scree. The Vibram® Alpine Hiking outsole excels in wet and<br />

muddy conditions thanks to its dedicated climbing, traction, braking zones<br />

and aggressive lug pattern.<br />

Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 450 g (W) 350 g (pictured)<br />


SALEWA WILDFIRE 2 $329.90<br />

Engineered for technical terrain, the Wildfire 2 is a lightweight, agile and<br />

precise tech approach shoe with a breathable recycled synthetic mesh<br />

upper, and a 360° protective rand. It’s equipped with climbing lacing for<br />

fine adjustment in the toe-area and a lateral net system with Kevlar®<br />

cables for better overall performance and sensitivity. The POMOCA®<br />

outsole with Butylic compound rubber is designed for precision and<br />

sensitivity in mixed mountain terrain and ensures good grip on rock in both<br />

wet and dry conditions.<br />

Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 355 g (Pictured) (W) 305 g<br />



The breathable recycled cotton and hemp canvas upper is protected<br />

by a full 360° TPU rand. Our 3F system with nylon-coated Kevlar®<br />

cables provides additional support and greater stability at the heel,<br />

while ensuring a precise fit. The dual density ECO Ortholite® footbed<br />

promotes superior cushioning, and the Pomoca outsole offers secure<br />

grip during light hiking and approach activities.<br />

Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 305 g (W) 256 g (pictured)<br />



The next generation of our men’s bestselling, robust and reliable alpine<br />

trekking boot. This hard-wearing suede leather classic with a 360° full<br />

protective rubber rand is even lighter and more flexible. Equipped with a<br />

waterproof, breathable GORE-TEX® Performance Comfort membrane, a<br />

dual density expanded PU midsole, and the self-cleaning Vibram® WTC<br />

2 outsole is engineered for improved grip and traction in a wide range of<br />

conditions. Weight (M) 600 g (W) 470 g (Due AW23)<br />



When you are camping, you need a shoe that is good on<br />

all surfaces including inside the tent or the hut.<br />

Made from 100% natural wool, glerups provides an<br />

instant comfy at home feeling. They are light, versatile,<br />

and well worth the space in your backpack.<br />

Get natural, get cosy and get yourself some glerups.<br />



Go against the flow.<br />

Our amphibious outcast is water friendly and friendly to water.<br />

Transforming polluted water and air with BLOOM EVA,<br />

a performance foam that uses 10% recycled algae biomass.<br />

Available in many colours for Men, Women and Kid’s.<br />


ONE FOR THE ROAD - proceed with caution amber<br />

ale $7.95<br />

This all season medium-bodied lager<br />

showcases both malt and hops. It follows<br />

with a toasty malt character with only a<br />

subtle hop bitterness.


The first thing you’ll notice is that the front<br />

label on their pouches have changed for the<br />

better by adding Health Star Ratings and<br />

energy, protein, fat and carbs per pouch. They<br />

have also improved the readability of our<br />

back labels.Back Country Cuisine is available<br />

at leading retailers. For more information<br />

or to find your nearest stockist visit: www.<br />

backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />

Apple & Berry Crumble $13.99<br />

A sweet mix of freeze dried apples and<br />

berries topped with a delicious gluten<br />

free cookie crumb.<br />

3 Health Stars - Gluten Free<br />


tasty chicken mash $9.99 - $14.99<br />

With smoky flavoured freeze dried chicken,<br />

cheese and vegetables.<br />

3.5 Health Stars - Gluten Free<br />

Available small serve (90g) or regular<br />

(175g)<br />


INSTANT PASTA $4.99<br />

Just add boiling water for perfectly cooked<br />

pasta.<br />

3.5 Health Stars<br />

Sizes – Family 120g<br />


local dehy kumAra chickpea curry<br />

$17.50<br />

Mildly spiced Indian curry<br />

with spinach & brown rice.<br />

Refuel after a day's adventure!<br />

Dehydrated. Vegan. Home<br />

compostable packaging.<br />


local dehy hummus $8.00<br />

Roasted Red Pepper & Sundried<br />

Tomato, also available in<br />

Beetroot and Zesty Lemon.<br />

Perfect for lunches on the trail.<br />

Dehydrated. Vegan. Home<br />

compostable packaging.<br />


Rab Alpine 600 Sleeping Bag $699.95 - $759.95<br />

A mid-weight, 650FP three season,<br />

duck down bag with a tough and wind<br />

resistant Pertex® Quantam outer<br />

with recycled nylon lining designed to<br />

maximise warmth.<br />


kiwi camping Rover Lite 3cm Self-Inflating Mat $109.00<br />

Compact to pack and carry, the Rover Lite selfinflates<br />

in minutes. The tapered design can fit in<br />

a sleeping bag, 1830mm long and 550mm wide.<br />


exped ULTRA Duo 3R Sleeping Mat (medium) $449.99<br />

Lightweight, packable mat for two with<br />

light insulation. Features include two<br />

independent sides to customise the mat<br />

for each sleeper, a tapered shape to shave<br />

weight and bulk, a recycled 20D ripstop<br />

face fabric, 60gm/2 Texpedloft microfibre<br />

insulation and 7cm-thick chambers with<br />

fatter chambers at the sides to reduce the<br />

chance of you rolling off. Certified carbon<br />

neutral by myclimate. R-value 2.9. 830g<br />


Klymit Insulated Static V $229.95<br />

The Insulated Static V packs light and small,<br />

has a 4.4 R-value, body-mapped shape and V<br />

chamber design for comfort, lofty Klymalite<br />

insulation, and side rails.<br />


kiwi camping Mamaku Camper +5°C Sleeping Bag $94.99<br />

Packed full of features, the Kiwi Camping<br />

Mamaku Camper is a great value-for-money<br />

sleeping bag. Ideal for summer and packs<br />

down small for lightweight adventures.<br />


kiwi camping Tuatara 270° 2M Self-<br />

Supporting Awning $999.00<br />

Set up in under 1-minute,<br />

the Tuatara 270° 2.0m Self-<br />

Supporting Awning mounts to<br />

your existing roof racks to open<br />

out on the passenger side of<br />

your vehicle.<br />



Patagonia Hydrolock Boardshorts $169.99<br />

Developed and tested to perform in the<br />

world’s best waves. These lightweight,<br />

high-performance boardies feature<br />

streamlined four-way stretch, recycled<br />

polyester and a contoured waistband<br />

designed to keep your trunks in place<br />

even when the surf’s as heavy as it gets.<br />

Fair Trade Certified sewn.<br />


Patagonia Fair Trade RØ® Top $69.99<br />

These surf tops are made with light,<br />

fast-drying NetPlus® 84% postconsumer<br />

recycled nylon (made from recycled fishing<br />

nets to help reduce ocean plastic pollution)<br />

and 16% spandex. Excellent protection<br />

from sun and wind, plus next-to-skin<br />

comfort while paddling. M's and W's styles.<br />


merrell Scout Hoody - Women’s $209.00<br />

Get comfy in the Scout Hoody.<br />

Designed with organic and recycled<br />

materials that will make you feel<br />

good about feeling good. Washing<br />

garment results in a unique vintage<br />

looking colour every time.<br />


Chickfly Bamboo Leggings High Rise<br />

or Low Rise (USD $119.00)<br />

Chickfly leggings are made<br />

with soft, strong, stretchy<br />

and sustainable bamboo<br />

fabric, coloured with organic<br />

dyes. Our patented fly is held<br />

together by tension, creating<br />

a seamless, flattering, soft,<br />

and easy-to-use feature in the<br />

most comfortable and stylish<br />

black legging that every<br />

woman needs not only for<br />

style but for convenience and<br />

functionality.<br />


cotopaxi Capa Insulated Jacket –<br />

Men’s & Women’s $419.99<br />

Made with the new Gold<br />

P.U.R.E insulation from<br />

PrimaLoft® and 100%<br />

Recycled Nylon Shell. This<br />

Jacket is a performance<br />

layer, designed to be worn<br />

all-year-round.<br />


merrell Hayes Jogger - Men’s $199.00<br />

Meet the Hayes Jogger pant.<br />

Made with 95% recycled nylon,<br />

2-way stretch and PFC free<br />

Durable Water Repellency<br />

(DWR) finish for wind and water<br />

resistance. these are your easyto-wear,<br />

do anything joggers.<br />



make it a clear headed summer with clear head drinks!<br />

NZ’s non-alcoholic drinks SUPERSTORE<br />

Think beyond juice<br />

and soft drinks...<br />

Serve your guests<br />

an amazing range<br />

of wines, beers,<br />

RTDs and mixers…<br />

All deliciously<br />

refreshing, and all<br />

non-alcoholic.<br />

Great range,<br />

great prices,<br />

let’s celebrate!<br />

Stock up at Clear Head Drinks, and make sure you’ve got the best<br />

selection of drinks at your festive party or summer barbecue.<br />


Winter boots are notoriously boring – not Fubuki<br />

Surprisingly, each pair of<br />

FUBUKI boots only weighs<br />

around 1200grams, which<br />

is super lightweight and<br />

makes walking extremely<br />

easy regardless of the<br />

conditions; combined with<br />

shock-absorbing heels<br />

and a non-slip sole for<br />

ice and slippery underfoot, FUBUKI makes for the perfect winter<br />

footwear. These boots are made for walking. Add in the fact that<br />

they are 100% waterproof; snow, slush, mud, and water, on a boat,<br />

at work, on the ski field, or just keeping your feet warm at home,<br />

FUBUKI is setting a unique standard of craftsmanship, design and<br />

style. They come in both a high leg Niseko 2.0 and a boot format<br />

Niseko 2.0 low.<br />


"FUBUKI was designed as an alternative for<br />

the snow-loving community. Skiers have long<br />

been irreverent nonconformists. Lovers of<br />

FUBUKI around the globe continue to shape<br />

and cultivate a culture around the colourful<br />

boots—one that’s fluid, unconventional,<br />

and celebrates personal expression and<br />

interpretation.<br />

Occasionally a product comes along that does exactly<br />

what it says it will and then more. FUBUKI, which<br />

means snowstorm in Japanese, is from Sweden. In<br />

Sweden, where it can get as low as -30, being that<br />

close to the arctic circle, they know cold, snow, ice<br />

and how to keep warm.<br />

Get them at fubukiboots.com<br />

In a world where tough and resistant<br />

so often means rigid and boring,<br />

FUBUKI represents an off-piste path<br />

for those who confidently carve their<br />

own tracks on winter’s blank canvas.”<br />

NORSK and a new era in ice boxes<br />

There are a lot of chilly bins for sale in the market... But they<br />

are not all made equal.<br />

The price point of Norsk sets it apart from others in the market<br />

at over $200 cheaper than its rivals, however, Norsk does<br />

not compromise quality, style, and engineering. At $299,<br />

the 45-litre box is exceptionally robust; I even used it as a<br />

ladder to access my car roof box. Norsk box is solid, virtually<br />

indestructible and will not negatively react in the sun as it is UV<br />

resistant. But the Norske is not just a great ladder and a seat,<br />

its real use is to keep things cold, and it does that well.<br />

The pressure-injected polyurethane foam creates a sealed<br />

environment that keeps stuff cold for extended periods of<br />

time. We evaluated the Norsk by putting a single frozen pack<br />

of squid in the box, sealing it<br />

and only opening the chest<br />

twice a day to look. The<br />

product stayed frozen solid<br />

until day four! And even after<br />

that only defrosted slowly.<br />

The freezer box is sealed with<br />

a silicone gasket that keeps<br />

cold in and heat out. There is<br />

a simple draining system as<br />

well, which makes it easy to<br />

flush the defrosting ice.<br />

The stunning 45-litre box<br />

The box weighs around 9kgs, it is 34cm high and 42cm wide<br />

and 65cm long. It has easy-to-use handles that are part of the<br />

box moulding and an additional rope handle for easy lifting.<br />

Norsk has thought outside the box; excuse the pun. and added<br />

non-slip feet, which in a car or on a boat is a real asset, there<br />

is a locking option in the lid and robust rubber clips to keep the<br />

top locked down.<br />

Inside the box, there is a carry cage which sits on the rim and<br />

is excellent for keeping things separate. For further division,<br />

there is a wall divider in the middle of the box, which is<br />

removable (this also doubles as a chopping board).<br />

It feels as if we have been waiting for this affordable freezer<br />

box to come along, and now it’s finally here – summer is going<br />

to be a lot more fun. We evaluated the 45-liter box, but Norsk<br />

also comes as a 12-litre, 65-litre, 85-litre and the big daddy<br />

120-litre.<br />

You can see them all at www.norsk.co.nz (online purchases<br />

are available)<br />



Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and<br />

development in online stores over the past 5 years.<br />

We are dedicating these pages to our client’s online stores; some<br />

you will be able to buy from, some you will be able drool over. Buy,<br />

compare, research and prepare, these online stores are a great way to<br />

feed your adventure addiction.<br />

Never have a dead phone<br />

again! Because now you can<br />

charge straight from the Sun<br />

with SunSaver. Perfect for<br />

that week-long hike, day at<br />

the beach, or back-up for any<br />

emergency. Check us out at:<br />

www.sunsaver.co.nz<br />

Building versatile and reliable gear so you<br />

can adventure with purpose.<br />

www.keaoutdoors.com<br />

Temerature. Taste. Transport.<br />

Hydroflask, more than just a water bottle.<br />

www.hydroflask.co.nz<br />

Our mission is to produce<br />

the best quality beers<br />

possible across a range of<br />

flavours and styles and to<br />

have fun doing it!<br />

www.dcbrewing.co.nz<br />

Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional<br />

outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.<br />

www.patagonia.co.nz<br />

Stocking an extensive range<br />

of global outdoor adventure<br />

brands for your next big<br />

adventure. See them for travel,<br />

tramping, trekking, alpine and<br />

lifestyle clothing and gear.<br />

www.outfittersstore.nz<br />

Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,<br />

Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, <strong>Adventure</strong> Tents,<br />

Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.<br />

www.equipoutdoors.co.nz<br />

Our very own online store where<br />

you will find hard goods to keep you<br />

equipped for any adventure.<br />

www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz<br />


Zerofit is a range of base layers<br />

and lifestyle clothing straight<br />

out of science fiction.<br />

Using your body movement, it<br />

keeps you warm and improves<br />

your performance.<br />

www.zerofit.com.au<br />

Meals bursting with flavour, combined with home compostable<br />

packaging, means you really can have it all in the mountains.<br />

Designed by ‘foodies’ for maximum plant-based deliciousness<br />

and wrapped in earth positive, lightweight, packable pouches.<br />

www.localdehy.co.nz<br />

Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor<br />

clothing, footwear and equipment from the best<br />

brands across New Zealand & the globe.<br />

www.bivouac.co.nz<br />

Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel<br />

& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &<br />

casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.<br />

www.merrell.co.nz<br />

Norsk designs and builds ice coolers that without fail,<br />

will not fail. Perfect for your hard out adventures.<br />

Free shipping within New Zealand.<br />

www.norsk.co.nz<br />

Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment<br />

specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place<br />

for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents,<br />

outdoor clothing and more.<br />

www.livingsimply.co.nz<br />

www.glerups.co.nz<br />

glerups shoes, slippers<br />

and boots are known for<br />

their exceptional comfort<br />

and unique design.<br />

Over the years we have<br />

perfected the wool mix<br />

by blending Gotland<br />

wool with quality wool<br />

from New Zealand<br />

farmers.<br />

Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.<br />

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />

Sustainably designed outdoor gear that fuels both<br />

adventure and global change, by dedicating a<br />

percentage of revenues to nonprofits working to improve<br />

the human condition. www.cotopaxi.com<br />

Supplying tents and<br />

camping gear to Kiwis<br />

for over 30 years, Kiwi<br />

Camping are proud to<br />

be recognised as one of<br />

the most trusted outdoor<br />

brands in New Zealand.<br />

www.kiwicamping.co.nz<br />

With stores in Clyde and<br />

Cromwell, Bike it Now! is<br />

your access point to the<br />

Central Otago Bike trials: T<br />

> Lake Dunstan Trail<br />

> Otago Central Rail Trail<br />

> Roxbourgh Gorge<br />

and more...<br />

New Zealand’s first online<br />

store solely dedicated to<br />

Non Alcoholic adult drinks.<br />

www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz<br />


t r a v e l<br />

Satuiatua<br />

Lagoon<br />

Sunday was interrupted by an unwelcome<br />

call from my cycle guide Uilau “The Satuiatua<br />

Beach Fales kitchen and dining room have just<br />

burnt down.” Before I could fully digest the<br />

news, Uilau added “everyone is OK – but what<br />

do you want to do with our guests arriving there<br />

on Thursday?”<br />

Located on the south coast of Savaii, Samoa,<br />

Satuiatua is the only lagoon for 40 kms in<br />

either direction and a key stop for cyclists. The<br />

fales are nestled under giant banyan trees,<br />

that shade the entire resort and steadily drop<br />

tiny, nut-like figs onto the tin roofs of the fales.<br />

The dining room balcony was a great place to<br />

sit and watch the tell-tale spouts of migrating<br />

whales in September, while the marine reserve<br />

in the lagoon beside the fales provided an<br />

excellent drift snorkel through the coral and<br />

dense schools of tropical fish. The full drift is<br />

not for everyone, and it only works near high<br />

tide. Less than a month ago we had swum this,<br />

being pulled steadily by the current through the<br />

small canyons of coral. Gradually the canyons<br />

shallow out and the last part of the snorkel is<br />

in two feet of water. Here we surprised a turtle<br />

and were able to swim quietly right up to it while<br />

it feasted on vegetation deep in a hole in the<br />

coral. I grabbed the shell to check it wasn’t<br />

stuck, and it quickly flippered away. If asked,<br />

Uilau loves to show guests the reef by night.<br />

Night spearfishing is popular in Samoa and<br />

while he wont take his spear, his experience lets<br />

you discover the reef nightlife.<br />

Most of the beach fale resorts are owned by<br />

men and effectively run by women. Satuiatua<br />

is the exception, owned and run by Leilua<br />

Tutoga Mailei, a powerful matriarch and matai<br />

(Chief) in her own right she is a woman not to<br />

be messed with. She started the resort 27 years<br />

ago on family land and has gradually extended<br />

the range of accommodation to include airconditioned<br />

motel rooms. But I still prefer the<br />

thatched fales on the beach. There is still<br />

something special about lying under a mosquito<br />

net and listening to the gentle waves on the<br />

shore just three metres away.<br />


Soon after a close shave with a rogue wave at Alofaaga blowholes near Taga.<br />


Clockwise from top left: Staghorn coral at Satuiatua. / Relaxing in a beach fale after a day's riding.<br />

Satuiatua Beach Fales under the banyan trees / Cooling off at Afu Aau falls<br />

I think about how Lelua will be feeling about the fire as I<br />

contemplate what we will do. “We will do nothing today. Let’s<br />

let Lelua have a day to absorb the loss and mentally recover.<br />

We have time to change bookings later if we have to.” The easy<br />

thing is to skip the next day’s riding, but I am very reluctant as it<br />

is a unique day.<br />

The first stop on this days riding is usually at the Taga<br />

Blowholes. More spectacular and reliable than Punakaki on the<br />

West Coast of the South Island, they are a little-known wonder.<br />

From a vaguely signposted corner, the 4WD track meanders<br />

down to the coast and along the shore to a black lava plateau<br />

about 5 metres above the sea. When molten lava contacts<br />

the sea the rapid cooling causes it to explode, creating vertical,<br />

fissure-ridden cliffs. The constant action from the unrelenting<br />

southerly swells has widened the fissures and spouts of water<br />

are forced up to 40m in the air. There is usually a local there<br />

who, for a small tip, will throw a coconut into the hole, timing it<br />

just right for the coconut to ride the top of the spout.<br />

When the seas are small, everything is entirely predictable and<br />

there is a temptation to toss your own coconuts. As I discovered,<br />

this can be a lot more dangerous than expected. The rocks are<br />

wet and slippery, and in big seas, rogue waves will crash across<br />

the plateau and sweep it clear of everything. Once caught by<br />

a wave that was fortunately only knee deep, I struggled to stay<br />

upright in the fast moving water as it surged towards my camera<br />

gear lying on the rocks at the base of the bank, 100m from the<br />

cliff edge. Fortunately a more cautious cyclist grabbed my bag<br />

moments before the water arrived. And even more fortunately, I<br />

kept my balance to tell the tale.<br />

The second treat of this day is the Afu Aau falls. Coming at the<br />

end of 40kms of often hot riding, they are a welcome chance to<br />

freshen up with a dive into the clear, cold pool. Whether your<br />

entry is via a sedate walk into the pool or a dive from one of<br />

the high rock ledges is a personal choice, but its worth taking<br />

the time to snorkel around the edges. Here clinging to the rock<br />

walls are koura – freshwater crawlies. The initial trepidation at<br />

sharing the pool with so many small sharp nippers soon passes<br />

as I study them in their natural habitat.<br />

This day usually finishes at Florences’ homestay. Here Ruth<br />

and Kelvin have been reclaiming her family’s old Copra estate,<br />

experimenting with new crops and new growing techniques.<br />

Ruth is a superb cook with an appreciation of fine wine, while<br />

Kelvin (amongst many things) is a butcher from Taumaranui.<br />

They have a raft of stories that put Barry Crump to shame and<br />

are always delighted to share them.<br />

While I am contemplating how we might manage without<br />

Satuiatua, I get the message I have been hoping for. The beach<br />

fales are all still fine and Leilua will host everyone for meals<br />

in her home until they can rebuild. Having been treated to a<br />

Sunday Toana’i (traditional Samoan umu lunch) at her home, I<br />

know she will do it well.<br />

And now, within four days of the fire, there is a full rebuild plan<br />

underway. It won’t be quite the same for the next few months,<br />

but the hospitality may more than makeup for the lack of meals<br />

on the balcony, watching the whales.<br />

Contact Ross and Frances at: office@outdoor.co.nz to organise a custom tour or to join a group.www.outdoorsamoa.com<br />


Beautiful Samoa awaits you, and we are welcoming our international aiga<br />

with open arms! Experience Samoa’s untouched beauty, unique cultural<br />

experiences and rich heritage. Self drive, bike or stroll through the wonders<br />

that make this island life one to cherish just like the locals do.

Cook Islands.<br />

Lonely Planet’s top place to visit in 2022<br />

Float above the world’s bluest blue<br />


t r a v e l<br />

Malekula<br />

Island<br />

Malekula is one of the most culturally diverse islands in Vanuatu,<br />

riddled with secret cannibal sites, surrounded by glassy reefs and<br />

home to the gentle giant of the sea: the dugong.<br />

There are over 30 languages spoken on the small island of<br />

Malekula. With a population of only 25,000 and different cultural<br />

practices affiliated with each language and village, Malekula is<br />

sure to delight at every turn.<br />

Sit and listen to the stories from the village Chiefs and ask how<br />

their practices differ from their neighbouring villages. Assume<br />

nothing and greet Malekula with an open heart, you won’t be<br />

disappointed.<br />


Snorkelling with Dugongs<br />

Pull on your flippers and masks, the gentle sea cows are nearby<br />

and they’re happy to share their reefs with you. Weighing up<br />

to 400kg and growing up to 3m long, these mysterious sea<br />

mammals are the only living representative of the Dugongidae<br />

family.<br />

Dugongs are strictly herbivores, so you’re not at any risk of a<br />

nibble. Your best chances of seeing them is on the Gaspard Bay<br />

Dugong Tour. Your guides won’t rest until they find them!<br />

Big Nambas<br />

In ancient times, the Big Nambas Chiefs (differentiated from the<br />

Small Nambas by the size of their penis sheath) had several<br />

wives. They had an ongoing rivalry with the Small Nambas that<br />

lasted hundreds of years.<br />

The Big Nambas are located in the north and accessible from<br />

the capital Lakatoro. You will need to book a tour with your host<br />

and they will be able to arrange transport. The Big Nambas will<br />

prepare a cultural experience for you including dance, magic<br />

and followed with a small ‘storian’ (discussion and chat) and<br />

refreshments.<br />

Losinwei Waterfall<br />

It’s a short and easy hour-and-a-half walk from the Lakatoro area<br />

alongside a river to the Losinwei Cascades, and you’ll have your<br />

jaw agape the entire time. As the light bursts forth from between<br />

the trees, the plunge pools glow every shade of blue and green,<br />

reflecting the colour of the leaves and forest undergrowth. Your<br />

shoes will be drenched by the time you reach the cascades, so<br />

make sure you’re wearing hiking sandals or sturdy waterproof<br />

boots. Cool off under the waterfall and follow the lead of the<br />

guides joining you as they flip off different platforms with huge<br />

smiles on their faces.<br />


Losinwei Cascades - Image by Ben Savage<br />


The Small Nambas Tribe of Malekula Island<br />

Small Nambas<br />

It’ll take you five hours in the back of a ute over volcanic soil<br />

and through window-deep rivers to get to the Small Nambas<br />

on Malekula Island. You’ll be dodging branches, chatting<br />

to locals as they hitch a ride from one village to another<br />

and laughing and high fiving children who try to keep up by<br />

running alongside the car.<br />

The Small Nambas don’t participate in any cultural festivals<br />

outside their village, so you can only witness their dances<br />

and experience their culture by going there yourself. You’ll be<br />

welcomed by the village Chief who, after a series of cultural<br />

dances, will have food prepared and served in his home.<br />

Communities of South Central Malekula are where the Small<br />

Nambas tribes can be found. Having retained their traditions<br />

for many centuries it is an opportunity not to be missed and<br />

experienced.<br />

"The Small Nambas don’t<br />

participate in any cultural<br />

festivals outside their<br />

village, so you can only<br />

witness their dances and<br />

experience their culture by<br />

going there yourself."<br />

Nawut Bungalows<br />

The Nawut Bungalows are located right on the waterfront of<br />

Uri Island, a short boat ride from Malekula. They’re complete<br />

with 24-hour solar electricity, flushable toilets and laundry<br />

service. If you’re doing the Gaspard Bay Dugong Tour this is<br />

the best place to stay because you’ll be able to head straight<br />

out to dugong territory. The coastline is also home to turtles,<br />

dolphins and giant clams, so get your underwater camera<br />

ready!<br />

A few other ideas:<br />

While on Malekula, if you have the chance, make your way<br />

to the cultural centre of Lakatoro. There’s a small museum<br />

up the hill there. If you catch the staff and it’s open, you won’t<br />

be disappointed! You’ll also find the Malampa Handicraft<br />

Center next to the main market in Lakatoro. This woman’s<br />

business centre, packed with hand-woven baskets and rare<br />

island treats is a must see.<br />

Nawut Bungalows are located right on the waterfront<br />

For more information on travelling to Vanuatu:<br />

www.vanuatu.travel/nz<br />


9.30am Mt Yasur on Tanna Island<br />

Hiking Diving Culture<br />

Volcanos<br />

Go explore at vanuatu.travel

t r a v e l<br />

A week in<br />

Paradise<br />

Words and Images by Steve Dickinson and Greg Knell<br />

When you think of Tahiti, it conjures up the quintessential<br />

South Pacific paradise; white sand beaches, crystal<br />

clear water, blue skies, cocktails by the pool and<br />

beautiful women swaying their hips with a flower in their<br />

hair. Sure, Tahiti and her islands has all that, but there is<br />

so much more!<br />

Our stunning home from Tahiti Yacht Chaters<br />

We were there to watch the Hawaiki Nui, which is a<br />

canoe race from one stunning island to the next, over<br />

128 km long, divided into three legs, between the<br />

Leeward Islands (Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa and Bora<br />

Bora). The race is done in a vaá, an outrigger canoe,<br />

with six people in each boat; there are no crew changes<br />

on the water, it’s a marine marathon. The Hawaiki Nui<br />

attracts each year hundreds of canoe racers coming<br />

from all over French Polynesia but also from Hawaii,<br />

Europe even Japan. They compete for 3 days over<br />

distances that vary from 25km to 60km, depending on<br />

which leg of the race.<br />

In 1992, the Hawaiki Nui came from one persons idea,<br />

his name was Edouard Maamaatuaiahutapu, and he<br />

wanted to create an event to showcase the islands<br />

where he lived. This race was developed along simple<br />

criteria: to be as prestigious as the Moloka’I Hoe race in<br />

Hawaii and to be far more arduous.<br />

The Hawaiki Nui is not really for tourists; it’s for the<br />

locals; of course, anyone can watch; it is like the Super<br />

Bowl of vaá- outrigger racing; there are hundreds of<br />

boats and hundreds of support teams and hundreds of<br />

people watching. On the open water, that multitude is<br />

spread out with vaá and boats as far as you can see in<br />

every direction, big ones, small ones, from super yachts<br />

to tiny tinnies and every man and his dog (literally) is<br />

either in the competition, supporting or watching.<br />

The start of every race is this mad rush to get the best postition<br />



The art of Va'a surfing<br />

Like I said, on the open seas, it’s OK that they are all spread out,<br />

but in the lagoon, which at times is only 2-300 meters across, the<br />

confusion and compression of all those boats and all those va’as<br />

creates chaos. I do think if it were anywhere else in the world<br />

there would be litigation, shootings and sinking, but because it is<br />

in Tahiti, everyone is pretty laid back, and even though there is<br />

the constant possibility of multi-million boat boats colliding, no one<br />

really gets too stressed.<br />

This year the first leg from Huahine to Raiatea was rough, wet<br />

and windy with solid swell and poor visibility, not more than 300<br />

meters; how the crews of vaá knew where to go was beyond me,<br />

but through wind and rain and massive swells, they powered on.<br />

It is impressive to watch not only them punching through major<br />

swell but catching waves and surfing them.<br />

The arrival at each island, the finish, is met by the locals going<br />

full noise; there are screams and water splashing, palms waving,<br />

and flowers were thrown, and although there is real pressure to<br />

win, every single canoe gets welcomed home and because it is so<br />

arduous that even finishing is treated like a significant win whether<br />

you are first or last.<br />

The final leg is from Taha’a to Bora Bora. Bora Bora is legendary<br />

for its beauty; the white sand and shallow lagoon create this<br />

amazing blue-clear water that looks like an extension of the sky.<br />

The lagoon would be at least a kilometer across and it is full of<br />

boats and people all partying, celebrating, playing music, people<br />

dancing and welcoming the vaá with garlands of flowers. It’s a<br />

competition, but it reflects so much a Polynesian way of being,<br />

everyone is happy, everyone is smiling it just simply a feel-good<br />

experience.<br />

While following the Hawaiki Nui we spent some of the nights not<br />

in a hotel but aboard a stunning catamaran from Tahiti Yacht<br />

Charter |. There is no better way to watch the sun go down and<br />

then to wake up to the oil-like water that is in the lagoon; you go<br />

to sleep in your stunning double bedroom with your own shower<br />

and bathroom, it is not like being on a boat at all. Not only was<br />

the catamaran amazing it came with a chef, the talented Tamata,<br />

who each day we would ask what is for dinner and she would<br />

always say, it’s a surprise, and it was – the food was fresh and<br />

mostly fish (at our request) , cooked, raw, whatever, it was always<br />

spectacular.<br />

The joy and relief of simply finishing<br />


Going through the pass at Taha'a - a solid swell frighteningly close<br />

Spectators are everywhere<br />

Sunset from the deck at the Bora Bora Yacht Club<br />


The finish of the final leg at Bora Bora<br />

The two nights we spent in Bora Bora we stayed at the<br />

Bora Bora Holiday Lodge, a perfect place to stay; great<br />

rooms, air conditioning, a pool and is only 5 minutes’<br />

walk to the yacht club, which was an brilliant place for an<br />

evening drink and a meal.<br />

If you are going to Bora Bora, you need to check out<br />

Bloody Mary’s, it is …. Unique, the list outside on the wall<br />

is a list of all those who have been to the restaurant, and<br />

it reads like a Hollywood who’s who. Established in the<br />

latter half of the 1970s, a genuine Polish noble, Baron<br />

Jerzy Hubert Edward von Dangel, created the restaurant,<br />

and it has become an icon of Bora Bora – great local food<br />

and equally good music.<br />

The day after the race, we had a day to fill and spent it<br />

with Bora Bora Cultural Lagoon Cruises with our guide<br />

Narihau. We were picked up and immediately taken to a<br />

spot where manta rays came in quite shallow; snorkelling<br />

in the misty water (manta does not like crystal clear) we<br />

got to see these monsters of the deep gliding around<br />

scooping up food. We then headed back to the boat, the<br />

OTI'A ARE, and we went to Narihua family island (motu)<br />

for lunch. Now over the years, I have had several great<br />

island lunches but never anything like this, it was simply<br />

superb. After lunch, you can walk around the motu which<br />

has now been turned into a garden, and each plant is<br />

clearly labelled and describe what it is and how it has<br />

been used. On our return to the hotel via the boat, we<br />

stopped at the coral garden where you could swim in<br />

what and only be described as an aquarium with bright<br />

colour coral and fish of every description. The tour is a<br />

great way to experience Bora Bora in a way you would<br />

never find yourself.<br />

We then headed back to Papeete and relaxed back into<br />

the newly refurbished Te Moana hotel for the night, only<br />

to be up early the next day for our Va’a experience. After<br />

watching the canoes for the last week, it was great to<br />

have some tuition on how it is done and to actually get to<br />

paddle.<br />

The first this you note is it’s not easy, it is not physically<br />

hard (well, not while you are learning in the lagoon) but it<br />

is tricky, you must keep in rhythm and make sure ya don’t<br />

bonk the person in front on the back of the head. We<br />

played around in the lagoon for a few hours, and we did<br />

get better, but you can only begin to imagine how difficult<br />

it must be in open water with waves and wind and in a<br />

race!<br />

As our week of activity came to a close, we had one<br />

last hoorah. Fishing with Moorea Fishing Charters, we<br />

jumped on the ferry with our guide Fred and went over<br />

to the beautiful island or Moorea. Here we were met<br />

Va'a experience day<br />


Classic Bora Bora, the most beautiful finish line in the world, captured by Greg Knell<br />

by the biggest smile I have seen in Tahiti, Matahi. He was<br />

pumped and ready to go fishing. The day before, they had<br />

caught a nice tuna, and they were amped. Very cool boata<br />

23feet long aluminium V-shaped boat, powered up and great<br />

for the conditions. And exceptionally well captained, as we<br />

found out. As we went outside the reef, our good luck with the<br />

weather changed, the wind came up, and the rain came down<br />

in buckets. With the wind and the rain and swell it was ….<br />

Challenging, but Matahi was determined, we tried for 4 hours,<br />

but it was not to be.<br />

Eventually, we gave up as the conditions continued to worsen.<br />

But the moment you head back into the lagoon, it is such a<br />

contrast, and it is back to dead calm. We headed to Matahi<br />

house for lunch which included fresh tuna (from yesterday)<br />

raw and cooked with his grandmother’s special marinade. We<br />

didn’t catch anything, but as we told the disappointed Matahi<br />

it’s called fishing, not catching, and it gives us a great reason<br />

to come back and we will. Matahi sent us a few pics of the<br />

previous week – and we can wait to get back.<br />

The only good thing about leaving Tahiti is Air Tahiti Nui, the<br />

friendly staff, the fantastic food the comfortable layout of the<br />

Dreamliner is the perfect end to a perfect trip. As we took off,<br />

the sun had come out and illuminated the reef and it was like it<br />

was not saying goodbye but see you again soon... And we will!<br />

Special thanks to:<br />

Staff at Tahiti Tourism www.tahititourisme.nz/en-nz/<br />

Air Tahiti Nui www.airtahitinui.com<br />

Te Moana Tahiti Resort www.temoanatahitiresort.pf/en/<br />

Tahiti Yacht Charters www.tahitiyachtcharter.com/en/<br />

Bora Bora Holidays Lodge www.boraboraholidayslodge.com<br />

Bora Bora lagoon and cultural excursion<br />

www.boraboralagoontours.com<br />

Bloody Marys www.bloodymarys.com<br />

Moorea Fishing Charter www.mooreafishingadventures.com<br />

Captain James Tapeta • Maruia Richmond<br />

Holding on for dear life with Moorea Fishing Chaters<br />

Amazing results can be had with Moorea Fishing Charters<br />


Tahitian Dreamliner<br />

Voyage en première<br />

Enjoy full service in all classes<br />

* Complimentary WiFi for Poerava Business<br />

© Grégoire Le Bacon<br />



A l p i n e R e s o r t<br />

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P<br />

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ARE YOU IN<br />


MEET<br />

SCOTT<br />

& MIG<br />








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28 & 29 JAN 2023<br />

(RESERVE 4 & 5 FEB)<br />

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LOCATION: Tauranga Sports<br />

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