ESTETICA Magazine USA (4/2022)
Estetica Magazine is the world's leading hairdressing magazine. Founded in Italy in 1946 and published today in over 60 countries around the world, it is a global reference point for professionals working in the hair and beauty industry. Techniques, fashion, education and trends are at the core of every issue of Estetica Magazine. Further information about both the printed and digital versions of the magazine is available at magazines.esteticanetwork.com
Estetica Magazine is the world's leading hairdressing magazine. Founded in Italy in 1946 and published today in over 60 countries around the world, it is a global reference point for professionals working in the hair and beauty industry. Techniques, fashion, education and trends are at the core of every issue of Estetica Magazine. Further information about both the printed and digital versions of the magazine is available at magazines.esteticanetwork.com
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USA
the HairMagazine
BEAUTY IS BACK
NYFW SS23, industry
events, and salon design
GUYS GALORE
Focus on men’s trends,
products, tools & more
COLORS & CUTS
Cover story, trends,
revivals & innovations
SINCE 1948, OUR STYLIST-FIRST PHILOSOPHY HAS PUT US AT THE
FOREFRONT OF HAIR INNOVATION, INSPIRATION AND MASTERY:
FROM FOREVER REVOLUTIONIZING COLOR TO ARTIST-LED
EDUCATION, AND TRUE PARTNERSHIPS LASTING DECADES.
CHEERS TO 75 YEARS TOGETHER AND MORE.
CELEBRATING
75 YEARS OF
PASSIONATE STYLISTS.
#GOGOLDWELL #GOLDWELL75
LA RICOSTRUZIONE 100% VEGAN
per un capello sano e luminoso
www.echosline.it
echosline.official
editorial
On the verge of bidding farewell to 2022, this winter issue will be focusing on color
trends as envisioned by Goldwell on our front cover and cover story, as well as the
extensive report on the Goldwell Creative Awards and our Best in USA album.
Once again you will find news about how to help insure hair health. Moreover, all the
Creative Direction: John Moroney,
VP Creative & Communication
Kao Salon Division
Hair: Angelo Seminara, Goldwell
Global Ambassador
Color: Agnes Westerman,
William Wilson
Photo: Ralph Mecke
Make-up: Jochen Pahs
Styling: Ingo Nahrwold
beautiful men in our lives will be getting the attention they deserve - including trends,
tools, and products! Even our salon design feature presents a stunning mélange -
something for everyone - especially in what were once “traditional“ barber shops!
Indeed, beauty must also be inclusive,
blind to gender, race, religion, and more.
“To be yourself in a world
that is constantly trying to
make you something else is the
greatest accomplishment.”
Ralph Waldo Emerson
It’s simply up to the individual to find
his or her own “brand” of fashion and
beauty. Maggie Mulhern also explores the eclectic looks found on the
runways in her coverage of New York Fashion Week SS23. After all, variety is
the spice of life... and of hairdressing!
Marie Scarano
Something for everyone at
www.esteticamagazine.com
www.alteregoitaly.com
FOLLOW US
Estetica n. 4/2022
contents
PUBLISHER AND
MANAGING DIRECTOR
Roberto Pissimiglia
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Marie Scarano
esteticausa@estetica.it
INTERNATIONAL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Laura Castelli
l.castelli@estetica.it
INTERNATIONAL ADVERTI-
SING COORDINATOR
Monica Tessari
m.tessari@estetica.it
LAYOUT
Manuela Artosi
m.artosi@estetica.it
Davide Cardente
d.cardente@estetica.it
ADVERTISING & P.R.
Nives Carena
nivescarena@estetica.it
ESTETICA USA
EDITOR-AT-LARGE
Maggie Mulhern
ESPAÑA
Elisabet Parra,
Cristina Hernández
DEUTSCHE AUSGABE
Michaela Dee
FRANCE
Marie Coccoluto
UK
Gary Kelly
ITALIA
Lucia Preziosi,
Glorianna Vaschetto,
Emanuela Vaser
DIGITAL
Erica Balduini,
Erika Marchese,
Stefania Rao,
Alessandro Zanetti
Shoot Cover Story 6
Trends Male Attitude 8
Catwalks Beauty is Back 16
Vision The Magic of Color & Shape 22
Events Best of the Universe 30
Trends Today’s New Men 82
Trends Hair with Attitude 86
Design Vivid Vibes & Atmosphere 90
Interview Angelo Seminara 94
International trends
Punk it all up 33
What’s trending?
Everything! Men’s
looks and curls for
both men and women!
Take your pick!
NYFW coverage and
global events, plus
our international
pages offer plenty of
inspiration!
Salon design is
becoming more
creative and
individualized, just
like hairstyles
worldwide.
Cover Story
The ongoing challenge for any colorist and stylist behind
the chair is to find the ultimate balance: haute couture that
is both trendy yet suited to the client’s everyday lifestyle.
For our winter issue the cover photo features the excellence of Goldwell artists and products with a
spectacular cover-worthy look that can work easily for any woman. It is sophisticated enough for
those in corporate careers to professionals essentially of any age, yet is simple and casual enough for
stay-at-home moms. This is precisely the challenge that so many hairdressers are facing nowadays in
a post-pandemic panorama: finding fashion-forward looks for the very real clients sitting in their
chairs. And with this stunning yet subtle color and impeccable cut, the Goldwell team delivered.
To achieve their vision of
a "Soft Tangerine" hue,
Agnes Westerman and
William Wilson expertly
formulated a
combination of Elumen
and Elumen Play shades.
Angelo Seminara
trimmed the chin-length
bob, added some volume,
and updated the bangs
with some point cutting
just above the eyebrows.
Existing shade: 8NA
Mid-lengths and ends:
Variation of 10N and 10G
“Soft Tangerine”
formula and technique:
PRE-LIGHTEN REGROWTH:
• 60ml System Developer
Lotion 12% (40vol.)
• 30ml Topchic HiBlondes 11P
Lightened ends:
• 35ml LightDimensions
SilkLift Conditioning Cream
Developer 3% (10vol.)
• 25g (ml) LightDimensions
SilkLift Zero Ammonia
• 3 Pumps LightDimensions
SilkLift 2in1 Serum
• 4-5 drops System THICKENER
Stretched regrowth:
• 30ml ELUMEN KB@7
• 30ml ELUMEN GB@9
• 10ml ELUMEN PlRose@10
Stretched ends 1:
• 5ml ELUMEN KB@7
• 30ml ELUMEN GB@9
• 5ml ELUMEN PlRose@10
Stretched ends 2:
• 60ml Elumen Play @CLEAR
• 9ml Elumen Play @YELLOW
Stretched ends 3:
• 30ml Elumen Play @PASTEL PEACH
• 30ml Elumen Play @PASTEL PINK
• 1ml Elumen Play @PINK
Creative Direction:
John Moroney,
VP Creative &
Communication Kao
Salon Division
Hair: Angelo Seminara,
Goldwell Global
Ambassador
Color: Agnes Westerman,
William Wilson
Photo: Ralph Mecke
Make-up: Jochen Pahs
Styling: Ingo Nahrwold
John Moroney, Global Vice President of Creative & Communications, Kao Salon
Division commented, “The concept behind this look was create a cut and color that
was classic enough for a professional setting but could be given an edgier, more
modern style for a night out.”
“For Soft Tangerine, our color team wanted to showcase the natural-looking tones of
Elumen, while still making it look modern. Angelo Seminara took the classic bob
shape and gave it an edgy modern look, which when juxtaposed with the natural tones
gives it a future-forward feeling.”
photoshoot
7
Male Attitude
Male grooming is an ever-evolving craft with its own unique
dynamism. It’s also a huge global business, especially since men
have become so much more experimental about the way they look.
And men’s hair is trending hard, wherever you’re from! Gary Kelly
RELAXED STRUCTURE
“With male grooming now bigger than ever, we wanted to create an image which reflected the trends of the present, which also show the
progression of the market and the styles that are both popular and relatable to clients of all ages. The first image is inspired by individuality,
the chance to embrace the flexibility of the hair, working with a much more relaxed feel and allowing the individual to embrace their own
creativity and freedom. Movement was the inspiration for this look. The second look is inspired by the strength of a classic square shape – a
much more structured and uniform look, using an architectural like shape to structure the hair and keep it in check at all times.”
Andy Heasman, International Creative Director, RUSH Hair (UK)
Hair: RUSH Artistic Team/Make-up: Lan Nguyen-Grealis/Clothes Stylist: Robert Morrison/Photo: Jack Eames
GENDER FLUIDITY
“This image challenges the boundaries around men’s hair and colour. I love that this look demonstrates a style and colour placement
that is totally wearable for men. I also enjoy the androgynous feel to this image. It taps into the movement around owning our identity,
self expression and gender fluidity. I think the moody green hue here is perfect, not only to suit the model’s fair skin tone, but to create
mystery around the face while also adding interest to the stylised haircut.” Teri Lowe, Creative Director at The Hair Surgery (UK)
Hair: Teri Lowe/Styling: Rasa Balcuiniate/Make-up: Stacey Ellen Simpson/Photo: James Nicklin
8 trends
SOFT TEXTURE
“Current trends are inspired by classics such as crops and mullets which are still going strong in
2022. Crew cuts are also popular as some men prefer more practical cuts to wash more frequently.
Personally, I love all the possibilities and it has been nice putting some work into changing styles and
working with a lot of hair.” Sindi Devitte, Andis Global Educator (USA)
Hair: Sindi Devitte, Andis Global Educator/Photo: Cunha Photography
TIGHT FADE
“The polished elegance of a tight fade will never be off trend. For a fashion forward feel, create a tight
fade at an angle just above the ear, add a hard part and keep the edges clean. Refine further by grooming
eyebrows and any facial hair to complement the face shape and celebrate the wearers personal style.”
Becka Bradshaw at Sam Villa (USA)
Hair: Becka Bradshaw at Sam Villa Creative Director: Teresa Romero/Photo: Nico Norsdström/Makeup: Leticia Tapia and Delia Deleon/
Wardrobe: Michi Lafary/Model: Brandon Gonzales
BIG BANGS
“Throwback to grunge. For a woman this side-parted chin-length bob would be somewhat of a classic.
But this androgynous look with the right attitude can work great for younger men as well.”
Mike Taylor (USA)
Hair: Denman Ambassador Mike Taylor @miketayloreducation/Photo: Liam Oakes @liamoakesphoto/Tools: Denman
OLD SCHOOL QUIFF
“Shifting textures and layers, a high and tight undercut, and styling product that enhance the natural
texture of hair come together to create this urban version of an old-school quiff. Today men’s looks
need to be versatile, easy to style into different looks and a means to express their personal vibe.
Depending on the styling products used, this look can easily transform from vintage to modern.”
Teresa Romero at Sam Villa (USA)
Hair: Teresa Romero/Creative Director: Sam Villa/Hair Assistant: Sarah Adeleye
Make-up: Teresa Romero and Sarah Adeleye/Photo: Dani Bauer/Tools: Sam Villa
124 trends trends 125
RED MULLET
“A fire engine red makes the perfect fashion statement for what is already a disconnected and textured mulllet.
Denman tools are great for getting those crisp lines over the ears and shaping the side-swept bangs close to the head.”
Mike Taylor (USA)
Hair: Denman Ambassador Mike Taylor @miketayloreducation/Photo:Liam Oakes @liamoakesphoto/Tools: Denman
ENHANCED DISRUPTION
“I wanted this haircut to almost have a do-it-yourself feel like it had been cut with a ‘knife and fork’ to enhance and disrupt
the texture of the haircut. The inspiration was taken from the punk era to create this anti-establishment, raw neo-punk feel - a
look that could be rejected by the mainstream. I love this image as it injects a sense of reality with unedited purity to create
this strong statement.” Christian Wiles (UK)
Hair: Matrix Artist Ambassador Christian Wiles from Wiles Studios, Northampton
trends
11
ULTRA BLONDE
“To create this image I worked with Jerome Russell. I always keep my looks extremely wearable but also contemporary and
stylish. Not only is this look super on trend, but it also stays true to my signature style – precision cutting and creating
clean, precise hair looks. I used Jerome Russell bblonde bleach to bleach up the hair to this clean, white blonde. For cutting
I did clipper over comb to create a wait line and then point cut the top to create texture throughout the bleached hair.
For styling I used Label M Matte Paste and Volume Foam to create edgy texture and volume in the hair with a matt finish.”
Jim Shaw, Director of TONI&GUY Billericay (UK)
Hair: Jim Shaw for Jerome Russell.
“Jing debuts an eye-catching and bright orange colour, which complements his effortless hairstyle. His flexible look
is perfect for someone who prefers a low maintenance yet put-together appearance. Using Goldwell LightDimensions
and Goldwell Topchic to achieve a glowing orange, Alex also maintains Jing’s length with disconnected layers and hair
texturising - a hairdo that only the likes of K-pop idols would be able to pull off! To maintain this look, Alex recommends
using styling products from the Goldwell StyleSign range such as Creative Texture RoughMan and Texturizer Texturising
Mineral Spray.” Alex Neo (Singapore)
Hair: Alex Neo, Director of The Lawn Hairdressing, Singapore/Products: Goldwell
12 trends GLOWINGLY UNIQUE
FASHION BLENDING
“A balance between smoothness and angularity with beautiful blending texture creates a flawless
modern look. With subtle blue and purple tones embracing hair, there is a strong emphasis on
character, especially when seen in sunlight. Finally, leaving a heavy-weight feature line on the top
section generates a ‘Yuppie’ look and transfers it into a sophisticated fashion style.”
Eros Eason Chen (Taiwan)
Hair: Eros Eason Chen, Taiwan Model: Samuel
JAGGER HOMAGE
“I set out to create a look that would reflect my model’s personality - Milo is in the music industry /model,
rock ’n’ roll edge that I wanted to magnify. His hair was originally just past his shoulders and all one length
- I wanted to create something more lived-in and touchable, an homage to Mick Jagger without being a
direct copy. I cut the hair with a razor, shaping an oval perimeter and shattering the hair to create layers
and texture that are so versatile to style. The finished look has 1970s influences but with a contemporary
twist that makes it surprisingly wearable.” Darren Ambrose (UK)
Energy Collection by D&J Ambrose/Hair: Darren Ambrose @darrenambrose/Colour: D&J Artistic Team @djambrosehair
Make-up: John Christopher @jcmua/Styling: Jackie Ambrose @jackie.ambrose1/Photo: Chris Bulezuik @chrisbulezuikphotography
trends
125
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Beauty is
back
The beauty presented at the NYFW
Spring/Summer 2023 runways
highlighted a return to a pro touch.
16 catwalks
Braids, cornrows, afros, mullets, bobs, pixies, simple blowouts, shags and of course
ponytails - the Spring/Summer 2023 beauty offerings presented at the most recent
New York Fashion Week had it all, representing extremes from exaggerated and
dramatic to unforced finishes. While many designers opted for a more uniform and
strong silhouette to accent their collections, others chose the more natural route by
having the hair team enhance the models own texture and shape. Kien Hoang, Oribe
Principal Artist of Global Design, was the lead hairdresser for almost a dozen shows
this past season and worked on looks from extreme structured up styles to softer
and more natural falls. “I love what it takes to make sure every shape is right for
the collection,” says Hoang who frequently researches historic documents to come
up with ideas that suit the era and fashion. “Sometimes that means a powerful
design like the almost floor length braids for the female warriors for the Kim Shui
collection, and sometimes the looks are to be something seemingly effortless. Those
finishes are equally important and difficult, and require just as much skill and ability
from the hairstylists.” No matter the direction, beauty did make a statement on the
catwalk and gave the hair teams, along with nail and make up artists, something to
talk about. It was a winning season for everyone, both front and back of house.
Strong to soft
From the high knotted braided ponytails for Kim Shui (by Oribe’s Kien Hoang) to the simple, gentle bobs for Ella Johnson (by Bob
Recine for Oribe Hair Care), there was something for everyone at the collections presented at the Spring and Summer 2023 NYFW.
Simple short crops and naturally textured coils are perfect for carefree, low-maintenance looks, while a throwback to a 70’s vibe
was found in smooth lengths with a middle part. Groovy!
TOMMY HILFIGER
ALTUZARRA
Glamour was the hero
at the shows, but with
a personalized twist.
Tommy Hilfiger models
featured deep side parts to
create bangs that draped
across the forehead to add
sensuality to luscious lengths.
Spikey Mohawks create an
alluring springtime plumage
for the bolder fashionforward
crowd. Center parts
with chignons, pony tails, or
demure dropped waves and
asymmetrical finishes are
just some of looks expected
to jump from the runway
to the streets this spring
and summer.
MOROCCANOIL
18 catwalks
BEHIND THE SCENES
Teams were out in force and just about every backstage was back to 2019 energy, enthusiasm and
chaos. Beauty pros were able to execute comfortably without masks and fear of exposure, and artists
were just happy to get back to work and enjoy the fun and excitement of NYFW. “Working backstage
is very fast paced and can be a stressful adrenaline rush,” says Odete DaSilva, Goldwell NYC Academy
Artist and NYFW Editorial Hair Stylist. “Time is of the essence and often we never have enough of
it. Most times we only have 10 minutes with each model.”
Another key to a bespoken hair look? Accessories! Berets, scarves, beads or original headbands
can also add oomph! to any outfit. Free-style shags of all lengths and pseudo-mullets are all
trending, especially amongst youths seeking a more natural and androgynous look, as they
work for both men and women. Trend forecaster and Global Creative Director for Living Proof
Michael Shawn Corby loves what he calls the “shapeless shapes” that were seen on many catwalks.
Says Corby, “From partial waves to smoothed over straight sweeps, this season was all about
complementing the fun, flirty and barely-there fashions that we are going to see for spring and
summer 2023.”
Ulta Beauty Pro Team - Nick Stenson: @nickstenson, Anna Manukyan: @amanukyan, Sonya Dove: @thesonyadove, Sean Godard: @seangodard, Danielle Keasling: @danielle.keasling, David Lopez: @davidlopezzz, Michelle O’Connor: @michelleoconnorbeauty; Hair Assistants: Ulta Beauty Design Team - Haley Kimble- Valadez: @haleyki, Beto Sanchez: @betoloveshair, Gilad Goldstein: @myguiltycrown, Reva Haga: @reva_danielle, Takeyra Shipps: @hair_bytakeyra,
Laura Gunter: @lauragunterhair, Anthony Negron: @kinganthonyyyy; Hair Assistant: Viktoriya Yeremchuk @viktoriyayeremchuk; Makeup: Deney Adam, Ulta Beauty Pro Team: @deney_adam & Dmitry Potapov: @dmitrymakeup; Nails: Sarah Nguyen: @chrmdbysarah; Wardrobe: Bjorn Van Den Berg: @vandenbergbjorn & Jennifer Daniels: @beforetheflash; Photographer: Richard Monsieurs: @richardmonsieurs.
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The glamorous
assymetrical curly bob
rides the periwinkle
wave, while the tequila
sunrise updo transforms
the model into a
modern-day queen.
Hair: Allen Furlan
Make-up: @Silenceoftheglam
(Ashley Zimmel)
Photo: @jngphoto (John Ng)
The magic of
color & shape
Best of
USA
“Classic styles with a twist and
awash with brilliant hues - pop
star glam that speaks to you”
vision
23
“Sunrise hues for
a moon dance vibe -
textured, knotted,
and crimped - wild”
24 vision
Best of
USA
Inspired by the 90’s supermodel
and Jean Paul Gautier’s bustiers,
this shoot is giving Cindy
Crawford vibes through and
through. Feminine, edgy - this
girl’s got it all.
“Bustier” Collection
Hair Color & Hairstylist: Joan Novak
Photo, Wardrobe & Creative Director:
Joan Novak
Make-up: Jana Bizzarri
With today’s busy
lifestyles, these two
different lengths and
colors lend an effortless
yet fashion-forward
vibe for anyone.
Hair, Color, Styling, Photo:
Charlie Price @charliepricehair
Make-up: Tiaja Pierre @
tiajamaisondebeaute
Best of
USA
“Simple, shaggy cuts and
inspirational color contrasts
make for carefree style”
vision
27
R
OMC GLOBAL CERTIFICATION
PRESENTS
GLOBAL CERTIFICATION
TRAINERS-JURORS
Hair-Aesthetics-Nails
OMC WORLD BEST EDUCATORS
will be showing the newest inspirations
in Fashion & Competitions.
Save the Date
APRIL 30 - MAY 1, 2023
Online Registration - January 15-20, 2023
www.omchairworld.com
Trainer /Jurors Global Certification fees $500
Includes - Lunches & Sunday Gala Night.
Guest Participation $350 - Lunch and Sunday Gala Dinner.
PRESENTS
INTERNATIONAL
ONLINE PHOTOGRAPHIC 2023
The OMC Gold Cup is an online competition open to all OMC members across all five
OMC Zones (America, Asia, Western Europe, Central Europe & Eastern Europe) and
offers multiple categories in Ladies, Gents, Junior and Aesthetics & Nails competitions.
ONLINE REGISTRATION FEB. 15th - 20th 2023
www.omchairworld.com
Best of
the universe
The extraordinary OMC Hairworld 2022 returns to Paris
with huge success, a monumental live competition and
passionate participants coming from all over the world.
Sergi Bancells
Salvatore Fodera and Gianni Fodera together with Hidetaka Yoshikawa,
Takara Belmont Chairman & CEO. Next OMC 2022 Global Symposium
and the exciting Battle of the Champions are taking place in Yokohama
(Japan), during 2022 Takara World Business Congress.
An enthusiastic global audience enjoyed the live experience of the
World Hairdressing Championships: OMC Hairworld 2022, held
in Paris during Mondial Coiffure Beauté – MCB by Beauté
Sélection (September 10th-12th) in a specially dedicated area in
the main floor. More than 1,000 participants representing 50
nations competed on the OMC Hairworld 2022 stage in a vibrant
live competition that attracted all eyes all along Sunday, Sep 11th
and Monday, Sep 12th. This awe-inspiring event & competition
was sponsored by Wella Professionals, L’Oréal Professionnel Paris,
Takara Belmont, Aderans and MCB by Beauté Sélection (OMC
Platinum Sponsors); together with Raphaël Perrier, Vitality’s,
Silkey Professional and Cindarella Paris (OMC Gold Sponsors);
and YY Hair, Pivot Point, Calcagni Diffusion and Jinda Hairs
(Mannequin Head OMC Gold Sponsors). OMC Hairworld 2022
was presented by Salvatore Fodera, Chairman/CEO – Founder
,
Inspiration GALORE!
At OMC World
Championships no
matter where you look,
there is a special trick
or secret to learn from
these many competitors
and their creations.
A fabulous environment
where competition
and talent allow your
inspiration to take wing!
OMC & OMC Hairworld; Gianni Fodera, OMC World President; Vincent Fodera, OMC
Hairworld & Marketing Director; and Carmelo Gugliotti, OMC Global Director – Competition.
True artistry dominated the stage in a craft where hair is the medium used to create sculptures
too grandiose for words: the OMC Hairworld 2022 competition demands several practical
trials, giving us a grand number of talent to watch in real time.
CELEBRATING 75 YEARS OF HAIRDRESSING AT ITS BEST
During the World Hairdressing Championships in Paris, OMC celebrated its 75th anniversary
as the largest professional hairdressers’ organization in the world with over 50 member
countries and over 1 million individual members worldwide. OMC offers a global platform
to all competitors of the beauty sector to become World Champions in their own field among
competitors from the 5 continents. “Not everyone can be a winner, but just participating is a
winning situation: the experience they gain, the knowledge they take back to their salons... and
then during the year they are training and preparing for this big event. And let’s not forget that
social media connects everybody nowadays: all these connections culminate in this wonderful
platform of OMC”, says Salvatore Fodera, Chairman & CEO. But with so much passion for the
craft, who won? Take a look at www.esteticamagazine.com for the full list of this year’s winners!
Photos by Rose Glen
events
31
www.ecommerce.estetica.it
Just a simple
click, even from
your smartphone
or tablet and
you can have
the magazine in
your salon.
Subscriptions,
Albums, Books
and special
package deals
with discounts
you will love!
SUBSCRIBE
ONLINE
TO YOUR FAVOURITE MAGAZINE
SUBSCRIBE ONLINE AT
www.ecommerce.estetica.it
For further info:
ESTETICA USA
customercare@estetica.it
MODA
INT’L
Hair Concept, Execution & Dress: Fabrizio Del Buono/Photo: Claudio Gangi/Make-up: Graziano Senesi
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Hair: Bernadette Beswick
@ Bezaboo
Colour: Stevie English
Photo: Andrew O’Toole
Make-up: Cheriene Waddell
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Hair & Photo: Bill Tsiknaris
Colour: Chris Tsiknaris
Make-up: Brooke Stanley
Styling: Colab X
Hair & Colour: Kristie Kesic
@ Cobelle Creative
Photo: Georgia Wallace
Make-up: Gemma Elaine
Styling: Tamzen Holland
“Punk is the
freedom to create,
freedom to be
successful or not,
freedom to be who
you are. It’s freedom.”
Patti Smith
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Art Direction: Errol Douglas MBE
Hair: F.A.M.E. Team
Photo: Chris Bulezuik
Make-up: Elizabeth Rita
Styling: Anna Latham
Products: Avlon
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Hair: Jude McEwen @ Toni&Guy
Photo: Andrew O’Toole
Make-up: Kylie O’Toole
Styling: Emma Boseley
Hair: E. González & J. Salvador @ Makeover/Photo: David Arnal/Make-up: E. Quílez/Products: Schwarzkopf Professional
Hair: Amy Wardley @ John Oliver’s
Hair: Corta Cabeza Creative Team/Photo: Gabo Boza/Products: Wella
Hair: Shy+Flo/Photo: John Rawson/Make-up: Nicola Fischer
Art Direction: Christophe Gaillet
Hair: Quentin Lafforgue - Team HCF
Photo: Maros Belavy
Make-up: Martyna Molenda
Products: L’Oréal Professionnel, Revlon Professional
“I’d rather be hated for
who I am, than loved
for who I am not.”
Kurt Cobain
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Hair: Attilio Artistic Team @ Lorenzo Marchelle
Photo: Lele Oldrini
Make-up: Rossella Pisani
Styling: Isabella Ingravallo
Hair & Colour: Mark Eubanks
@ Mark Christopher Salon
Photo: John Rawson
Styling: Rose Swift
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Hair & Colour: Mark Eubanks
@ Mark Christopher Salon
Photo: John Rawson
Styling: Rose Swift
Hair: Jacques Moisant Paris Team
Photo: Kei Takeda
Make-up: Yusaku Nakahara
COMMITTED
&
REBELLIOUS
Art Direction: Bruno Marc Gianmattei
@ Marc Antoni
Hair: Marcus Giamattei & Dan Spiller
Photo: Jamie Blanshard
Make-up: Katie Moore
Products: Joico
PUNK
IT ALL UP
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Art Direction & Hair: Eric Maurice/Photo: Pascal Latil/Make-up: Ambre Thomas/Styling: Véronique Suchet
“What is attitude?
It’s a small thing which
always makes a really
big difference.”
Sir Winston Churchill
Art Direction & Hair: Eric Maurice/Photo: Pascal Latil
Art Direction & Hair: Christine Alves/Photo: Imagin’com/M-up: Aline Le
Hair: Giovanni Damiani & Simone Virdis/Photo: Alessandro Dalla Fontana
Hair & Styling: Shae Tsiknaris/Photo: Bill Tsiknaris/Make-up: Brooke Stanley
Hair: Elle Broadhurst/Colour: Kristie Kesic @ Cobelle Creative/Photo: Georgia Wallace
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Hair: Christian Ríos
@ Christian Ríos Hair Couture
Photo: Esteban Roca
Make-up: Gloss Make Up
Styling: SergiDevcia Couture
Hair: Pauline McCabe
@ Rock Paper Scissors
Photo: Andrew O’Toole
Make-up: Hendra Widjaja
Styling: Rochelle Renwick
PUNK
IT ALL UP
“Creativity involves breaking
out of established patterns
in order to look at things in
a different way.” Edward de Bono
Hair: Allan Mckechnie @ Rutherfords Hair
Photo: Lee Howell
Make-up: Stacey Whittaker
Styling: Jacki Clark & Allan Mckechnie
Hair, Colour & Styling: Charlie Price
Photo: EJ Carr
Make-up:Tiaja Pierre
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Hair & Photo: Bill Tsiknaris
Colour: Chris Tsiknaris
Make-up: Brooke Stanley
Styling: Colab X
Hair: David Barron @ Barrons London Salon/Photo: John Rawson/Make-up: M. Austin/Styling: M. Jacobs
Hair: Bernadette Beswick @ Bezaboo/Colour: Stevie English/Photo: Andrew O’Toole/M-up: Cheriene Waddell
OPPORTUNITY
&
DESIRE
Left & right: Global Creative Director: Ezio Diaferia @ Cotril/Art Direction: Luca Grillo/Hair: Yuri Napolitano & Consuelo Prignano
Hair: Jude McEwen @ Toni&Guy/Photo: Andrew O’Toole/Make-up: Kylie O’Toole
Hair: Danny van Tuijl @ Ginger|Lemon Hair/Photo: G+K Photo/Make-up: Sophia Gunev
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Hair: F.A.M.E. Team
Photo: Michael Young
Make-up: Maddie Austin
Styling: Bernard Connolly
Products: Schwarzkopf Professional
“It doesn’t matter how long
my hair is, or what colour
my skin is, or whether I’m
a woman or a man.” John Lennon
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Hair: David Corbett
@ David Corbett Hairdressing
Photo: Michael Young
Make-up: Maddie Austin Kelly
Styling: Claire Frith
AUTHENTICITY
& BELIEF
Hair: Dee Parker Attwood
@ Wieselmann Salon
Colour: Rob Watson
Photo: Andrew O’Toole
Make-up: Kylie O’Toole
Body Tattooing: Liz Mason
Styling: Elaine Marshall
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Hair & Colour: Ann Marie Young
@ Jingles Hair Design
Photo: Fiona Quinn
Make-up: Chanelle Aldridge
Styliing: Fiona Quinn
“Always be yourself,
express yourself, have
faith in yourself, do
not go out and look for
a successful personality
and duplicate it.”
Bruce Lee
Hair: D. Carsidona & F. De Palma
@ Klaus Peter Ochs
Photo: Dan Candler
Make-up: Alice Owens
Styling: Mickael Komer
Hair: Mayte Garrote @ Different Estilistas/Photo: David Arnal/Make up: José Luis Blasco/Styling: Eunnis Mesa
Hair: Attilio Artistic Team @ Lorenzo Marchelle/Photo: Lele Oldrini/Make-up: Rossella Pisani/Styling: Isabella Ingravallo
Art Direction & Hair: Eric Maurice
Photo: Pascal Latil
Make-up: Ambre Thomas
Styling: Véronique Suchet
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Hair: Cicciput Unse Tratem
Photo: Lorem Ipsum Dolor
Make-up: Adusmater Duretraio
Styling: Bauhaus Riputer
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Hair: Giuseppe Stelitano,
Creative Director @ trevorsorbie
Photo: Pascal Latil
Styling: Gumidafe Gutiér
Nails: Jimena Nails
Hair & Colour: Viktoriya Vradii
Photo: Desmond Murray
Make-up: Lauren Mathis
Styling: Jamie Russell
Hair: B- Beswick @ Bezaboo/Colour: S. English/Photo: A. O’Toole
Art Direction & Hair: Marco Iafrate @ Deco Beauty Salon
Photo: Lorenzo Sampaolesi
Art Direction & Hair: Valérie Guillaume/Photo: Elya Kéran
Hair: F.A.M.E. Team/Photo: Michael Young Hair & Colour: Kristie Kesic @ Cobelle Creative/Photo: Georgia Wallace
Art Direction & Hair: Eric Maurice/Photo: Pascal Latil
Hair: Shy+Flo/Photo: John Rawson/Make-up: N. Fischer
Hair: Allan Mckechnie @ Rutherfords Hair/Photo: Lee Howell
Hair: E. Broadhurst/Colour: K. Kesic @ Cobelle Creative/
Photo: G. Wallace
Hair: Jose Urrutia/Photo: Esteban Roca
Art Direction & Hair: Christine Alves/Photo: Maurizio Pighizzin
Hair & Colour: Ann Marie Young @ Jingles Hair Design/Photo: Fiona Quinn
Hair: Alazne Montero @ Punkrose Salon/Photo: Jorge Rastrojo
Hair & Styling: Shae Tsiknaris/Photo: Bill Tsiknaris
Art Direction & Hair: Marco Iafrate @ Deco Beauty Salon/Photo: Lorenzo Sampaolesi
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Hair: Alfredo Valero
@ Blades Hair Studio
Photo: David Arnal
Make-up: Jose Luis Blasco
Products: Goldwell
Art Direction & Hair: Marco Iafrate
@ Deco Beauty Salon
Colour: Mario Giorgetto
Photo: Lorenzo Sampaolesi
Make-up: Massimo Palasciano
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Hair: Darrel Starkey
Photo: Anthony Sheridan
Make-up: Abbie Beautement
CONFIDENCE
Hair: Darrel Starkey
Photo: Anthony Sheridan
Make-up: Abbie Beautement
& ARTISTRY
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Art Direction: David Katchadourian & Pascal Latil
Hair: Team Alexandra Grey
Photo: Pascal Latil
Make-up: Mariana Miteva
Products: Schwarzkopf Professional
“I enjoy looking good
and love experimenting
with my hair colour.
I’ve just gone from
blonde to brunette,
and keep looking in
the mirror and not
recognising myself!”
Katie Piper
Art Direction: Eric Maurice &
Jacques Seban @mydentity
Colour: A. Zachary, E. Belmonte,
E. Maurice, L. Dupont
Photo: Glenn Norwood
Make-up: F. Díaz & F. Milanez
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Hair: Francine Ladrière
Photo: Nicolas Huret
Make-up: Cécile Prat
Styling: Justine Wessels
Hair: Danny van Tuijl
@ Ginger|Lemon Hair
Photo: G+K Photo
Make-up: Sophia Gunev
Styling: Lizzy Lemon
Art Direction & Hair: Valérie Guillaume
@ Salon Kinki Kappers
Photo: Elya Kèran
Make-up: Roberto Godales Del Valle
Styling: Monique Désar
EMPOWERMENT
& SUCCESS
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Creative Direction:
Mauro Galzignato for Kemon
Hair: D. Carlucci, R. Rogari, A. Candido,
P. Baltieri, D. Comandulli, F. Morelli
Photo: Hair: Fernando Lucia McEvoy Gomez
@ Tony @ Wood Aura Photo Hairdressing Agency
Hair: Roberto Dallo Lafuente/Photo: Jose Urrutia
Hair: Shy+Flo/Photo: John Rawson/Make-up: N. Fischer
Hair & Styling: Shae Tsiknaris/Photo: Bill Tsiknaris
Art Direction: Suzie McGill @ Rainbow Room International/Photo: Chris Bulezuik
Hair & Colour: Mark Eubanks @ Mark Christopher Salon/Photo: John Rawson
Hair: The Club
Photo: Vincent Urbani
Make-up: Valentina Achilli
Products: Wella
PUNK
IT ALL UP
PUNK
IT ALL UP
Hair: Josh Woodman
Photo: Desmond Murray
Make-up: Fatin Hasdo
Products: Denman
Images: FPA
Hair: Marc Thibault
Photo: Steeve Josch
Make-up: Laurent Tonder
“You are your greatest asset. Put your time,
effort and money into training, grooming,
and encouraging your greatest asset.” Tom Hopkins
POUR UN CHEVEU FORT, SAIN, BRILLANT
ET UNE COULEUR INTENSE
Heart est la coloration Vitality’s qui renforce les cheveux
tout en les colorant, en améliorant la consistance du cheveu
et en augmentant sa résistance de plus de
+35%
*
*Essai ex vivo de résistance à la casse des cheveux après le soin colorant Heart (avec l’activateur Heart) réalisé
par un laboratoire indépendant externe en comparant des cheveux colorés avec Heart à des cheveux non colorés.
vitalitys.it
Today’s
New Men
What is dictating men’s fashion nowadays? Mostly the
same influences found in women’s fashion. Retro and
vintage vibes, ethnic and street style – there will always
be classic cuts, but even these looks can work with suits!
Hair: Becka Bradshaw, Sam Villa Ambassador - Creative Director: Teresa Romero - Photo: Nico Norsdström/Obsidian and
Blush - Makeup Artist: Letica Tapia and Delia Deleon - Wardrobe: Michi Lafary/Obsidian and Blus
Hair: Roger Molina, Sam Villa ArTeam - Creative Director: Teresa Romero - Photo: Nico Norsdström/Obsidian and
Blush - Makeup: Delia DeLeon and Leticia Tapia - Wardrobe: Michi Lafary/Obsidian and Blush
Top and below: Denman Ambassador Mike Taylor@miketayloreducation
Photo: Liam Oakes@liamoakesphoto - Tools: Denman
Top right: The Denman Fade
brush has extra-soft bristles
that gently remove cut hair
for a squeaky clean work area
and the sharpest of fades.
While there will always be classic men’s looks à la Cary Grant and other Hollywood hunks
of yesteryear, today’s men are setting new limits and exploring and experimenting with
bespoken looks that better suit their own features, hair type, and - why not? - lifestyle.
What we can safely say is that men’s hair fashions, especially for everyday looks, are increasingly
androgynous. Braids, shags, and mullets abound, with focus on the hair and less on whether a
man is clean-shaven or bearded and the shape and volume of sideburns. Of course there is still
an overall vision of what was once referred to as “manscaping”, but it’s more in terms of the
individual’s personality. Denman Ambassador Alan Beak confirms this, observing, “Employers,
professionals and people in general have become so much more open minded in the last few
years and individualism is celebrated more than ever. This has led to our clients being able to
express their personalities through how they have their haircut, which means we’ve seen a shift
in more creative styles. The hair cut can now have a diverse way in which they style it.”
MODERN CLASSICS EXPRESSION OF IDENTITY
“With a strong sense of identity, and expression of personal fashion, men’s hair is
becoming longer and more individualized based on natural texture. Creating imperfect
perfection is now the focus from traditional male grooming to non-gendered hairstyles
that break away from societal norms,” explains Teresa Romero, Creative Director for Sam
Villa. To the left, modern classics like these are achieved by creating disconnected layers
and graduation. Think square shape shags with a heavier perimeter. Inspiration for these
looks comes from the polished organic texture and fashion of today’s contemporary
“dandies”. Today’s men feel more comfortable and confident while being creative with
styling. They are more than willing to seek products that enhance texture, hot tools to
refine the style, and ask for advice on how to perfect DIY styling techniques.
trends
83
How can salon professionals meet the growing needs of a relatively new yet super- savvy
clientele? Knowing how to communicate and using the latest lingo with one of the fastest
growing sectors in recent years means laying a foundation for consolidated success in
terms of dedicated products, services, and trends. Denman’s Alan Beak shares, “I’m always
advising my clients on ways in which they can potentially wear their hair: more creative,
textured and even wilder. But then I also show them the more conservative way it can be
styled. Even a messy cropped mullet has become socially accepted not just in society as a
cool and current look, but also the workplace.” It’s also important to cater to the special
needs that men bring to the salon. After all, men can be sensitive, too! For example, Wahl’s
Nieves Almaraz (@howtofadehair) advises, “With winter comes dry skin that is easily
irritated, and clients deserve a barber that understands how to pamper dry skin and put
client comfort first when using clippers and shavers. Prioritizing client comfort also means
using the best tools that won’t cause irritation or redness when they are getting that close
cut. The Wahl Professional 5 Star Vanish® Shaver provides an ultra-close finish without
irritation thanks to a revolutionary new independent suspension cutting system and
micro-thin gold foils that hug the face, head, and neck for the smoothest shave.”
EUFORA MEN’S TEAM TREND VISONS: RETRO & REBELLION
When collaborating on a HERO runway show, the goal for the Eufora’s Men’s Team was
to sort out the influences currently impacting men’s styling trends. Indeed, many of these
factors are driving the resurgence of looks reminiscent of the late 1960’s and early 70’s.
Team lead, Julie Cross was determined “to instill a feeling of hope and change; sharing the
Wahl
Wahl Professional Educator,
Nieves Almaraz on fading
and ultra-close finishes
Disconnected cuts, regulation cuts, and other popular haircuts
require skill and technique along with the proper tools. The
trend for 2022 and beyond is a clean cut with sharp finishing,
and Wahl Professional Educator, Nieves Almaraz, has tips to
make your fading and finishing look as cool and crisp as the
air outside. The NEW Wahl Professional 5 Star Vanish® Shaver
provides an ultra-close finish thanks to a revolutionary new
independent suspension cutting system and micro-thin gold
foils that hug the face, head, and neck for the smoothest shave.
84 trends PROFESSIONAL EXPERTISE: COMMUNICATION & SKILLS
Cut/Color/Style - Julie Cross, Dana Cash , and Lisa Warren for Eufora
Eufora
realization that great things are possible even in the craziest and most chaotic of times.”
As a result, the looks designed for this show brought to life a rebellious vibe,
personalities ready to push boundaries and embrace change. “Forms were softer and
more rounded, using length and texture to bend traditional expectations. Softened
silhouettes with added volume balanced out hard lines and strong shapes. Clean
barbered details were combined with longer, looser styles so that no one single look
could be stereotyped or considered a flat personality,” says Cross. “Longer hair and
natural texture are still in style; the combination of relaxed yet meticulously styled
looks are on trend; clean sharp “barber” details will never be out of vogue when used
to bring personality to life.” The Eufora Men’s Team had to meet the personalities of
the models to develop a unique vibe and distinct style for each. All models from the
show were cut, colored, and styled to remind us that no one should feel restrained by
what may appear to be the rules or limitations of the times. The message to takeaway
was this. “Longer hair and natural texture are still in style; the combination of relaxed
yet meticulously styled looks are on trend; clean sharp “barber” details will never be
out of vogue when used to bring personality to life.”
“A haircut is about free will and
allowing people to express who
they are. This is exactly where
the world should be right now”
Denman Ambassador Alan Beak
Samson’s Haircare, an artisanal men’s
hair and beard care range, founded
in 2019 by barber Jake Hamlet and
relationship manager, Adam Muncy.
Foster the Curl is a light hold crème that
delivers low shine and holds curls all day
while nourishing hair. Samson’s Beard
Oil is formulated with sweet almond
oil, avocado and jojoba oils, and other
natural ingredients that moisturize
and soften your beard and skin.
Sunup to sundown, Samson’s Hair
Pomade will hold your hair in place.
Curly Cut: Liza Espinoza Achurra @modaliza2/Hair Color: Cherry Petenbrink @hairbycherryp/Hair Assists: Bryce Van Dyke, Reynaldo Achurra, Anavel Barajas
Photo: Nohemi Capetillo @noamyphotographerpro/Makeup: Melissa Musseau @mmusse/Products: Moroccanoil
Hair with
attitude
In today’s world of individualism, curls are meant to be
124
celebrated, trends
not straightened. And if your hair is straight,
there are ways of adding curls, texture, and volume.
86 trends
More and more people, men and women alike, are embracing the natural texture of their hair, whether it be
slightly wavy, curly or the tightest of coils. What is always important, as always, is to keep hair healthy and use
specific products to define curls and add shine. And of course, it helps to use the right tools so that hair is never
stressed by pulling while detangling or heat.
For example, Adrienne Velazquez, Keratin Complex Brand Ambassador shares, “I am blown away by the results of
KCTexture. My curly clients have often shied away from treatments due to the heat involved. KCTexture allows me
to deliver stronger, healthier hair results to all of my curly clients and enhance their natural curls without any heat.
It’s a quick, easy service that is giving the client what they need.”
mop® is another brand that embraces individuality and has created products designed to support diversity. So, no
matter what the color, cut, or style of hair, mop® has got it covered. For example, we're seeing male stars like
Bradley Cooper and Tom Holland with longer, wavy locks. mop® volume whip can help get these looks by creating
moveable volume with a medium hold while adding a touch of moisture and shine resulting in gorgeous hair.
Bellissima
Cali Curl
Calicurl Beach Wave Service is a 45-65 minute professional salon texture service built and developed with innovative and patented waving
tools and liquid technology that achieves beautiful beach waves, volume and results that last 3-6 months. This innovative combination of liquids
can be used on most hair types from color processed to highly resistant to achieve healthy, long-lasting waves with one single formula.
Bellissima’s new Diffon Supreme Curly Dryer with Ceramic Argan Oil technology. This two-in-one hair dryer and diffuser reduces frizz
with heat and airflow options specific to curly hair needs.
Keratin Complex launched their KCTexture Curl Enhancing Keratin System as the ultimate curly keratin treatment that requires NO
HEAT! KCTexture is designed to enhance and define curly, kinky, and coily hair types, while restoring essential moisture to hair. You see,
smoothing doesn’t mean straight hair. It means healthy, strong, controlled, shiny, beautiful, frizz-free hair for every hair type and texture!
Keratin Complex
To complete any textured look, color also plays an important role. In the case of the photo on the first page, Liza
Espinoza and Cherry Petenbrink made up the cut&color dream team. “Our model Bri came in with overgrown cut
and color. It was super dry and frizzy. I executed a freehand dry curly haircut to give her shape and lift, taking off all
those dry ends and enhancing her amazing bone structure! Then Cherry did an accent highlight, root blend and ends
refresh on Bri, toning in shades of silver and gold for a metallic dimensional movement. We then applied products
and diffused to encourage her natural curl formation, finishing with some curling iron on curl to even out and polish
spirals around her face.” To the right, Allen Furlan opted for a statement hue of bright blueberry. Instead, Lisa Vann’s
Disruption collection is a radical change in defining curls. She explains, “With our latest collection I wanted to
change shapes, texture and color to give a different feel on curls, coils and crimps. By simply brushing out highly
texture hair to frizzing out wavy hair also leaving tight curl set hair in the set and only brushing out a section.”
th
Hair: Anna Peters, Sam Villa ArTeam Member and
owner of re:TREAT Color + Hair Design Studio @annas_hair_retreat
Getting a Faux Shag
This texture-forward sculpted style can
work for a variety of occasions. Anna
Peters says, “This is a fun look because
you can create it on almost any hair
length. It’s really all about the pinning of
the texture to create a cool shape,” says
Peters. “If your guest’s hair doesn’t hold
curl well, use a smaller iron for a tighter
curl pattern, it will hold better.”
• Prep the root and mid shaft with a Sam
Villa Signature Series Textur Professional
Texturizing Iron to add volume and
expand hair.
• Curl the prep section by wrapping hair
around a Sam Villa Artist Series 2-in-
1Marcel Iron and Wand 1” in a spiral
fashion. Secure with a clip to cool and set.
• Remove clips and allow curls to fall
freely. Using a Sam Villa Artist Series
Polishing Paddle Brush, brush hair up
and twist on top of head.
• Repeat on opposite side and secure with
bobby pins.
• Once secured, gently separate curls
with fingers.
Hair: Allen Furlan/Photo: @jngphoto (John Ng)
MUA: @Silenceoftheglam (Ashley Zimmel)
Hair: Lisa Vann @Vann Studio Seattle WA; Jill Lietz Boulder CO.; Aspen Day-Flynn Vann Studio Seattle WA
Photo: David Rossa, Denver CO/Styling: Lisa Vann/Make-up Rose Graham & Hannah Vann @Vann Studio Seattle WA
Denman Ambassador Amanda Killen @stylistamandaelaine shares some technical advice when deciding on the
right product for the hair in your chair. “Curly haired clients each have a unique set of haircare and styling needs.
Those needs are dependent on a variety of factors including hair density, curl pattern/overall texture , general
porosity of the hair and lifestyle. Many different types of leave-in conditioners/ primers can be used, but for
maximum absorption and effectiveness, should be applied to squeeze dried but not towel dried hair and then
distributed using a detangling brush like Denman’s Tangle Tamer Ultra. Aside from prepping curls with moisture
on wet hair, add a curl definition enhancing gel on wet hair and sculpt curls with a defining brush like Denman’s
iconic Original 9 Row Styler - is a major game changer.”
MOP also offers a variety of products style all kinds of textures and keep hair healthy. MOP Firm Hold Clay separates, defines and creates
texture while delivering a strong hold with a matte finish that lasts and lasts. MOP Basil Mint Firm Hold Gel tames flyaways or sets the
perfect style with confidence. Any look will be protected from humidity and remain flake-free thanks to this amazing gel. MOP Lemongrass
Volume Whip creates moveable volume with a medium hold. Lemongrass adds volume while grape seed oil adds strength, conditioning and
shine. Natural thermal and UV protectors fight damage from heat styling and help to preserve colour.
L’Oréal Professionnel recommends their Curl Expression line, infused with glycerin for extended hydration, Urea H to protect curls, and
Hibiscus Seed to provide moisture, strength and softness. Routines can be personalized for any type of curl or coil.
L'Oréal Professionnel
trends
89
Vivid Vibes &
Atmosphere
Say good-bye to boring cookie-cutter salons! Today salons
- whether big & small, modest or upscale - are designed
to reflect lifestyles, personalities, & client demographics.
90 design
Lambs & Wolves is a full service hair salon and beauty boutique in Red Bank, NJ, founded by Glen
Goldbaum, a hairstylist and visionary. Indeed, given its eclectic and “in-your-face” contemporary vibe, it
was no surprise that the salon was a finalist in the 2019 NAHA for best salon design and the Best Salon
Award Best Salon Award – What’s Up In Paris held in Paris as part of MCB by Beauté Sélection 2022.
In October 2020 the salon was moved and renovated entirely. Belvedere Maletti outfitted the salon with
technical pieces, but the rest is a riotous celebration of beauty and art.
Says Goldbaum, “My belief is that my space should always be more than a hair salon. It should function
as an art gallery. We focus on the art & energy of the space. The design should excite clients and, even
more so, my stylists. If they’re inspired by their surroundings, their art becomes more inspired. We use
our own photography throughout the salon, whiles street artists from around the world have contributed
to our wall space. We always say: “Don’t be boring” – and we don’t think we are.” During these times
when individuality and non-conformists are touted, what better setting to find a bespoken look to match
your personality and lifestyle.
Lambs
and Wolves
Red Bank,
New Jersey
Classic Belvedere Maletti stations and
lemon yellow chairs are understated
complements to the outstanding
photographs and wall art.
design
125
Zephyr
Barber
Birmingham,
Alabama
When barber Kellen Mataafa felt ready to set out on his own, he reached out to Austin Shirey, the owner
of Greasy Hands Barbershop, to partner with in his new venture. To help bring their vision to life, Kellen
and Austin entrusted Studio Carnley to help develop their brand. Their color palette of dark greens, off
whites and darker tans is somewhere between eco and minimalist. “We wanted to create an aesthetically
neutral barbershop. Something that bridges the gap between women’s salons and traditional men’s
barbershops. Simple yet elegant. We knew the space needed to be calm, gentle and flooded with natural
light. The mirrors, natural wood accents and the skylight really helped add to that aspect,” explains
Kellen. Four classic Takara 225 barber chairs in Oatmeal welcome clients, adding a traditional yet timeless
touch. “Birmingham is an up and coming place,” observes Kellen, “filled with amazing restaurants and
beautiful bars and coffee shops. I’d say we fit right in with what’s happening downtown; taking old
historic buildings/spaces and making them into something new and modern.”
92 design
The overall space was
influenced by different fashion
houses like Saint Laurent,
Givenchy and Tom Ford.
House of
J Henry
Portland,
Maine
Jaison Henry, CEO and co-founder of House of J Henry, decided to undertake the remodelling of
his salon during the pandemic, which complicated everything from finding a contractor to delays in
deliveries and costs doubling. The construction schedule triplicated from six to 18 weeks. Thanks to
expert organization, the salon closed for just one week during the renovation, the rest of the time they
alternated spaces with contractors working on one section of the space at a time. Luckily they were
working with Millard-Kwon. “We decided to work with Millard-Kwon to design our space because
we wanted a space that felt luxurious and elevated while remaining welcoming and highly functional.
The goal was for our guests to enter the front door and immediately feel they were someplace special,”
explains Jaison. “We created a space that we love, clients enjoy, and team members are proud of. Despite
of all the challenges, we wouldn’t change anything if we had do it all over again. It was worth it.”
design
125
Angelo
Seminara
“
THERE ARE NOW SO MANY MORE
OPPORTUNITIES FOR PEOPLE TO GROW
THAN THERE USED TO BE. HOWEVER, THAT
DOESN’T MEAN SUCCESS IS GUARANTEED
- YOU STILL HAVE TO TRY. by Sergi Bancells & Gary Kelly
”
Estetica had the opportunity to meet with the one and only Angelo Seminara in
Amsterdam. There, the Goldwell Global Ambassador presented his latest hair collection
during the Kao Salon Global Experience 2022. He combined an inspirational film
presentation with live models on stage to create an exciting, disruptive hairshow.
How did you come up with the idea of reinventing the concept of a hair show?
It’s something I started doing a while ago. I wanted to make shows more sustainable
and at the same time use the content we create in a different way, such as on social
media. The essence of a show is to get together, to have fun and to enjoy the spectacle.
With ‘Hair Every Wear 2.0’ I wanted to create a dialogue as a means to share and
communicate with my colleagues, especially after three years without seeing each other.
I therefore thought we needed to create something special and entertaining, while
keeping it simple at the same time.
You commented that you don’t see yourself as a master, but as an eternal student.
Yes. I always feel like I’m chasing after something. I need to feel I always have new
goals and challenges to achieve, ones which can also enhance and grow my role as
a hairdresser. I therefore feel it’s better to stay always humble and to accept that
sometimes you need to go into a room, lock yourself in and just practice. While I was
Known for his avant-garde, awardwinning
style, Angelo Seminara is one of
the most globally celebrated hairdressers.
Seminara was named Goldwell Global
Ambassador in the Summer of 2020.
working in the salon with Trevor Sorbie, one day he pulled me to one side.
He told me that I needed to understand that in this industry it’s 50/50: you
can’t just be artistic; if you don’t understand business as well, you can’t survive.
It’s important for young hairdressers to think like that, because nowadays
there are so many more opportunities for people to grow than there were in
the past. This doesn’t mean success is guaranteed – you still have to try.
Sometimes it’s good to fail - it pushes you to learn and grow.
I definitely agree. Strangely, I sometimes think it’s better to lose in a hair
competition. I know people who’ve been nominated for years and they never
win. However, if you look at their career, it would probably have stalled if it
wasn’t for their desire to keep competing So it’s not about the destination, for
me it’s the journey that really matters -that is what’s really important in life.
These days you are presenting your new tool, Solage. What is it all about?
I like what this tool Solage can do. It’s able to achieve the most beautiful
results in a really natural way. This is because, as its name suggests, it gives
a really sun-kissed effect. We’re talking about the effects of light and creating
something that looks really natural. If you learn how to use Solage confidently,
you can have great fun creating one color, two colors, three colors, subtle
effects, babylights... whatever you desire. We have created four new
techniques, all based in different lights.
How would you describe it to your colleagues around the world?
Imagine we have two Picasso paintings: I’m going to put one in the dark for
5 years and I’m putting the other one outside for the same time. What do you
think is going to happen? One of the paintings is going to discolor naturally
and that is precisely the beautiful light effect that I wanted to create with hair.
What excites you the most about our industry?
For me, the way we do color and everything about the world of color - it’s
what really interests me. I love working with Goldwell and I am really inspired
by the amazing creative opportunities that Elumen and Elumen Play open
up for me. Color for me is the key - it’s also our main business in the salon.
I remember never, never, never leaving a client without color in their chair.
You do a great haircut but how can you take it to another level? It’s like
turning a light on and you create tridimensionality, texture and volume -
all with color. A beautiful color also makes the hair look healthier.
What is your relationship with fashion and art?
I like to work with installations and fashion curators around the world,
because it really isolates me from what I normally do. It takes me into a world
that I don’t know as well as I might. I’ve been so lucky working in places like
China, Korea, USA, Mexico, France, Italy and Austria. I was recently at the
Venice biennale, with the amazing fashion and art curator, Judith Clark.
Wella Professionals
Scan the QR code to watch
the ‘Hair Every Wear 2.0’
film by Angelo Seminara,
launched at KSGE 2022.
interview
95
Global Creative
Awards 2022
Winners
The Global Creative Awards evening with the announcement of the new Gold, Silver
and Bronze Winners was one of the numerous highlights of the Kao Salon Global
Experience 2022. For stylists from all over the world, the Awards offer the chance to
show off their full creativity - without limits. They are an opportunity for stylists to
create their own, unique hair look, showcasing their innovative skills and full creative vision.
Stylists can compete in two different ways - the Technical Awards with three different
categories and the Editorial Awards with four categories.
This year nearly 70 Stylists from 37 countries joined the live competition in Amsterdam
to showcase their creativity in front of an international Jury. Let us introduce you to the
winners of this year‘s Global Creative Awards.
www.globalcreativeawards.com
GOLD
WINNERS
Technical
Awards
New Talent
Colorist
of the year
Creative
Colorist
of the year
Creative
Haircutter
of the year
MALAYSIA
Tiew Pei Yu
The Editor Salon
SINGAPORE
Junz Loke
Evolve
ITALY
Daniela Farzetti
Daniela Hair Group
Technical
Awards
New Talent
Colorist
of the year
Creative
Colorist
of the year
Creative
Haircutter
of the year
BRONZE
SILVER
CANADA
Emily KooistraThe Salon
Cyan
MALAYSIA
Ian Lee Jia Pei
The Editor Salon
USA
Rafael Monzó López
D'Autor by Rafa Monzó
UNITED KINGOM
Lucia McEvoy
Tony Wood Hairdressing
HONG KONG
Tasha Yip
Red Hill Hair Salon
USA
Alex Tant
The Upper Hand - River Oaks
www.globalcreativeawards.com
Kao Salon
Global Experience
in Chicago!
Be part of the live global creative awards at
the Kao Salon Global Experience in Chicago.
Stylists can compete in two different ways -
the Technical Awards with three different
categories and the Editorial Awards with four
categories:
TECHNICAL AWARDS
Creativity that starts with a photoshoot and
ends with a live technical competition.
The participants of the technical categories
have to compete first at the national level in
their country. Afterwards the Gold winners
move on to the international live competition.
EDITORIAL AWARDS
Four exciting categories of photo-only global
competition that celebrate the ultimate in
editorial creativity.
The participants of the editorial categories
have to compete globally in this Photo-Only
International Competition.
The Gold Winners of each of the technical
categories deserve the recognition and
reward for all of their creative efforts. In
addition to their trophy, they will receive global
editorial coverage with ESTETICA Magazines.
Take the chance to show the world what a true
creative does: Imagine, Create and Inspire.
For more information and all of the
requirements, rules and regulations of the
Global Creative Awards, please go to
www.globalcreativeawards.com
The Kao Salon Family is looking forward to seeing
you LIVE again at the Kao Salon Experience 2023
in Chicago on September 24th-25th!
Editorial Colorist of the year
BRONZE SILVER
GOLD
UNITED KINGDOM
UNITED KINGDOM
Ben Driscoll-Price
Price & Driscoll
Amy Wardley
John Oliver's
UNITED KINGDOM
www.globalcreativeawards.com
Jack Mead & Lydia Wolfe
Jack & the Wolfe
Avant Garde Stylist of the year
Editorial
Awards
MALAYSIA
NETHERLANDS
Tom Yek Teng Siong
Decrypt Hairdressing
Manou Grijsen
Twins Hair & Beauty Dalen
BRONZE SILVER
GOLD
AUSTRALIA
Abbie Jackson
Temple
Salon Team of the year
BRONZE SILVER
GOLD
MALAYSIA
SPAIN
Siew Thiam Kui
Artist Hairdressing
Rafa Monzó López
D'Autor by Rafa Monzó
UNITED KINGDOM
www.globalcreativeawards.com
Donna Page
Salon Prisma
Men’s Hairstylist of the year
Editorial
Awards
UNITED KINGDOM
NETHERLANDS
Andrew Plester
Hare & Bone
Jeffrey Den Dikkenboer
Jeffrey Den Dikkenboer
BRONZE SILVER
GOLD
NETHERLANDS
Jos Verzijlberg
Kapsalon Jos Verzijlberg
Kao Salon Global
Experience 2022
Amsterdam was the destination for over 2,300 global
hairdressers and industry guests, who united at the Kao Salon
Global Experience 2022 to hear the announcements of this
year’s Global Creative Awards winners. Gary Kelly
GLOBAL CREATIVE AWARDS EVENING
For those participating in the competition,
the most highly-anticipated part of the Kao
Salon Global Experience was without doubt
the gala evening held at the Amsterdam
RAI Convention Centre, where the names
of the Gold, Silver and Bronze Awards
winners in each of the categories were
announced. The evening also included two
outstanding stage shows by Angelo
Seminara and Mario Krankl, as well as the
presentation of a truly beautiful collection
to herald the exciting relaunch of Kerasilk
in early 2023. “It was a huge pleasure to be
able to do host the event live again this
year,” said John Moroney, VP Creative &
Communication. “Our salon owners and
stylists were thrilled. It’s a place to meet
up with like-minded artists and create
friendships for life. Every type of creativity
was waiting for the guests – from the
contemporary colour and style of Goldwell
to the street style craftsmanship of KMS
and the chic, editorial styling of Oribe.”
ARTIST AND ACADEMY SESSIONS
Five inspiring Artist Sessions gave guests from
all over the world the opportunity to experience
excellent mastery of their craftmanship. These
were: internationally renowned J.7 Creative
Team from Stuttgart, Germany; EVOLVE, an
award-winning salon based in Singapore;
Oribe Hair Care ambassador, STACEY
CICERON; top international hairstylist HUUB
EYSINK and multi-award winners, TAZ HAIR
CO. The Academy stage in 2022 showcased
five Academy Teams from around the world
sharing the newest trends from their cities.
The best educators & artists joined them live
on stage: Sona Brado & Daniel Bruns,
Agnes Westerman & Sascha Haseloff,
Salome de Wet & Neil Barton, Kylie Bussing
& Jacob Khan and Nicci Welsh. The event
ended with an announcement that the Kao
Salon Global Experience 2023 will be held in
Chicago, USA!
GOLD
WINNERS
SILVER
WINNERS
BRONZE
WINNERS
MARIO KRANKL
ANGELO SEMINARA
>>> For a full list of all
Gold, Silver and Bronze
winners, please visit
www.esteticamagazine.com
Speed
and color
Johnny Almagno,
a highly experienced
hairdresser, has
created the 4Dcolor
method, that will now
be available in America.
Johnny Almagno,
hairstylist of
international renown,
at work explaining his
exclusive method.
J
ohnny Almagno, a hairdresser
with extensive
experience, talks about
what inspired the idea of
training using the 4Dcolor
method, which will soon
make its debut in the United States.
How did your business start?
I’ve been a hairdresser since I was
15 years old. I attended a professional
school and several courses before
I started working in a salon. When
I was simply working behind the
chair I dedicated all my attention
to the client. I loved the world of
color and all the technical aspects.
So I focused on how to obtain the
best nuances. However, I noticed
that it took too long to achieve
perfection, so I tried to find a
system that would optimise both
my time and the final results.
The 4Dcolor method. What
exactly is it?
4Dcolor is a method for applying
multiple colors and decolorants.
It essentially optimizes on time.
For example, balayage often takes
more than three hours (depending
on the length of the hair) with
multiple steps. Instead, with my
method it is possible to carry out
six color services in just one step
and in only 30 minutes. The client
is rinsed just once. And there is no
need to tone. The advantage of the
4Dcolor method was noticed
outside of our salon as well. When
we began showing it to colleagues,
many companies were impressed
and recognized the validity of the
methods. So they sponsored
4Dcolor training in Europe.
You also studied a method
for applying Hair Extensions.
Tell us more about it.
The second step of our training,
born in 2017, is the application
of extensions. In addition to
guaranteeing length and duration,
we can also intervene to create color
effects that would otherwise be
impossible due to poor hair health.
How can one find out more
about your method?
The 4Dcolor method is a brand
that can be acquired exclusively
during a live course. It is a
registered trademark in Europe
and the United States and is not
available through other channels.
Our method has been selected
by more than 3600 professionals
and 1600 salons in Europe.
To practice this craft, must you
always find new challenges?
Hairdressing is one of those
categories that has problems in
revising their price list. Our
advice, in order to maintain client
loyalty, is to offer new services.
Expand your offer to give them
more choices. Only in this way
can you seek to create balance and
communicate more professionally
and transparently. Our courses
also teach the best method for the
client consultation. The most
common mistake a hairdresser
can make is to increase prices to
lower overhead costs.
Our biggest news is the founding
of 4Dcolor USA, with head offices
in Miami, Florida. The Italy
training project is the same one
that we will use in America. Both
projects will go hand and hand,
and we are very proud of them.
For info: 4Dcolor.com
4Dcolorusa.com
ABS announces the
2023 ABS Global
Image Awards!
The internationally
acclaimed industry
competition
is back!
America’s Beauty Show (ABS)
by Cosmetologists Chicago
proudly announces that the
2023 ABS Global Image
Awards are back. The ABS
Global Image Awards
celebrate the passion
and artistry of professional and
emerging stylists in an image and
video competition featuring
professional and student categories
ABS
from across the globe. This
incredible competition fuels
intense creativity and passion for
hairdressers, colorists, salon teams,
nail technicians, makeup artists,
super stars!
students and more. It culminates in
a dynamic presentation during
America’s Beauty Show on Saturday
evening, April 15th, during which
the winners will be recognized in a
way that’s never been celebrated
before.
The 9 professional categories and 2
student categories are all gender
neutral: Total Transformation;
Collaboration (Professional and
Student); Full Concept; Haircutting;
Texture; Barbering; Creative Color;
Makeup Artistry; and Nail Design.
One submission will be awarded
the prestigious Leo Passage Gold
Trophy Award.
The 100th America’s Beauty Show
(ABS) brings salon professionals the
latest in education, the hottest
trends, and the opportunity to see
and try what’s new in the beauty
industry, April 15 – 17, 2022 at the
Donald E. Stephens Convention
Center, Rosemont, IL.
You’ll get CEU education, access to
top educators and artists, worldclass
runway stages, competitions,
shopping and so much more.
ABS offers an extraordinary lineup
of education for cosmetologists,
colorists, nail pros and estheticians
who are focused on improving their
craft and propelling their careers.
Top industry beauty brands offer
their best and brightest in haircare,
makeup, skincare and nailcare.
For ABS Global Image Awards rules
and regulations or registration for ABS
visit AmericasBeautyShow.com.
The Ulta Beauty Pro Team created the looks
behind the America’s Beauty Show 2023 photo
collection, entitled “The Next 100.”Courtesy of
America's Beauty Show and the Ulta Beauty Pro
Team, including Nick Stenson, Anna Manukyan,
Sonya Dove, Sean Godard, Danielle Keasling,
David Lopez, and Michelle O’Connor.
events
107
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Key Ingredients of
the Scalp Relief Kit
include Aloe Vera for
its anti-inflammatory
properties, to relieve
an itchy scalp, and
Soothex, a unique
formulation that
relieves redness,
itching, and
inflammation.
Fuller hair,
fuller life
Nioxin’s advanced
skin care approach for
better scalp and hair
treatment.
All hairdressers are aware
that thinning hair is a
common issue, affecting
approximately 50% of
both men and women.
While many available
solutions serve to simply
camouflage thinning, the innovative
Nioxin approach inspired by
skincare is different. Nioxin has
found inspiration in premium
skincare to supply advanced care for
thinning hair. As an extension of
facial skin, the scalp requires the
same attention and treatment.
The Nioxin range of products are
designed to strengthen, nourish and
repair thinning hair from its
foundation. Because scalp health
creates hair health, this provides the
perfect foundation for thicker,
fuller-looking hair.
KITS AND
COMPLEMENTS
One of the many kits made
available by Nioxin is the brand’s
Scalp Relief System Kit, which
includes Scalp Relief Cleanser to
cleanse gently and effectively while
soothing the scalp immediately.
which includes scalp relief
cleanser; Nioxin Scalp Relief
Conditioner to soothe the scalp
and leave the hair feeling
nourished; Nioxin Scalp Relief
Soothing Serum, a leave-on
treatment that soothes sensitive,
dry and itchy scalp immediately,
while helping to increase the
thickness of each hair strand. All
three are formulated without
parabens and colorants.
In addition to targeted kits for
different types of hair, there are
also complementary products. Like
Nioxin Diamax, Hair Thickening
Treatment, on the far left, which
increases the thickness of each
strand of hair, leaving it fullerlooking.
Using HTX technology,
containing ingredients like
caffeine, niacinamide and
panthenol, Diamax thickens the
hair at the roots, while also
protecting against breakage.
Then Nioxin Night Density
Rescue, a hair density serum
formulated with a powerful blend
of antioxidants known to
neutralize free radicals on the scalp
surface. This antioxidant hair
serum leaves the scalp feeling
refreshed and is suitable for all
hair types.
For more info, visit
www.nioxin.com/en-US
products
109
Estetica n. 4/2022
ad index
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