GG_N50_FR

PAGES 117-130

OUR WINTER

SELECTIONS:

CZECH REPUBLIC,

FRANCE, GERMANY,

ITALY & SOUTH AFRICA

L 19045 - 50 - F: 7,95 € - RD

WINTER 2022

Laurent Vaillant (left), cellar

master at Champagne

Lombard, and Thomas

Lombard tasting in the winery.

CHAMPAGNE

THOMAS LOMBARD:

GRANDS CRUS OFFER

CONSISTENT QUALITY FRUIT

Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com

CONTENTS

COLUMNS / REPORTS

30

7

News

10

Focus

17 Champagne Grands

Crus under scrutiny

15

Rare bottle

Champagne Maurice

Vesselle

74

Vineyards

South Africa: How the

Breede River Valley tells

its story through wine

tourism

84

Grapes

Heading off for Portugal

and its native red grape

varieties

114

Stars & wine

Tim Burton:

from gothic fantasy to

Epicurean reality

116

Contact details

117

Winter selection 2022

30

Future

Cahors, fully committed

to the 21 st century

93

Focus

García Carrión, blazing

a path of its own

64

42

Travel

Lirac, Tavel &

Châteauneuf-Du-Pape –

Diamonds in the rough

54

Organic

Emilia-Romagna and

Umbria seen through

the lens of sustainability

98

Discovery

Médoc Crus artisans in

the limelight

104

Grape

Nebbiolo, the prince

of grape varieties in

north-west Italy

74

64

Discovery

The Czech Republic:

Great wines from

a small country

84

Gilbert & Gaillard next issue

Spring 2023

COVER: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES

WINTER 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

3

EDITORIAL

FRANÇOIS GILBERT - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

GREETINGS FROM NEBBIOLO

Talking about Italian grape varieties is in some

ways like a never-ending litany, such is their

number in the winegrowing cradle of Western

Europe. But Nebbiolo is not just another grape

variety, it undeniably holds a special place. Mainly

grown in Piedmont, it has stoked the global acclaim

of Barolo – its single varietal epitome – along

with Barbaresco, whose reputation continues to

gain traction. It requires well-drained and very

poor limestone soils to fully express its potential,

and it also needs plentiful sunshine as it ripens

late. Harvesting often occurs in the autumn and

is sometimes carried out in the mist – or nebbia

in Italian – hence its name. A fairly fragile grape

variety, it calls for impeccable vineyard management

and winemaking techniques in order to

scale the heights of quality. Only then does it yield

wines that combine incredible power, complexity

and finesse, all of which is coupled with outstanding

ageability promoted by its tannins and

marked acidity. There is no doubt that Nebbiolo

has entered Italy’s varietal hall of fame, alongside

the heavyweights that are Sangiovese, Barbera and

Nero d’Avola. And in a country that had more than

a thousand native grape varieties before the phylloxera

crisis, that is no mean feat!

4 WINTER 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

EDITORIAL

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

BREEDE RIVER VALLEY:

A PARADISE FOR WINE TOURISM

Less well known than Stellenbosch or Franschhoek,

this lush region located just two hours

from Cape Town is crossed by the Breede River and

its tributaries and bordered by the majestic Langeberg

Mountains, which separate it from the adjacent

semi-desert region of Klein Karoo. The Breede River

Valley is almost 130 kilometres long and in fact

straddles three wine regions: Worcester, Robertson

and Breedekloof. This makes it the Western Cape’s

largest producer region, as the three areas account

for about a third of the country’s vineyards and

produce almost 40% of its wine. The region also runs

the gamut in terms of vineyards, from small characterful

wineries to larger co-operatives. The most

common wines are made from vineyards along the

valley floor, whereas the higher-end offerings originate

in vineyards set in the foothills of the mountains

surrounding the valley.

The region is best known for producing rich, fruity

red wines because the soils have extremely high

limestone content, lending the wines minerality,

depth and aromatic complexity. Merlot and

Cabernet Sauvignon are particularly widespread

here, though a few local wineries have also started to

produce sparkling wines made from the two legendary

grape varieties that are Chardonnay and Pinot

Noir. But more than this, the Breede River Valley is

a fantastic setting that offers myriad tourist, recreational,

gastronomic and historical activities, whilst

also proving to be a true paradise for wine.


5

EDITORIAL

SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF

CHAMPAGNE GRAND CRU:

THE STAMP OF TERROIR

Champagne’s hierarchy in terms of ‘crus’ and

thus terroir is not a self-evident concept in this

prestigious wine region, which is home to just one

appellation and produces wines that have always

been exported worldwide. Yet such a hierarchy does

exist – the Grands Crus are Champagne’s elite. They

are single-growth and sometimes even single-vineyard

wines harvested from 4,000 of the region’s

34,300 bearing hectares. This equates in total to

about 11% of volumes. Their boundaries embrace just

17 localities out of the 319 that form the Champagne

region and only cover the Montagne de Reims and

the Côte des Blancs in Marne. This is no accident. The

two areas have the best vineyard sites with chalky

sub-soils that allow the vines to put down deep roots

and retain water if necessary. And if you factor in the

incline and good aspects, the result is the best configuration

for producing fine wines, a prerequisite –

over time – for producing top Champagnes.

Unlike the prestige labels from the major brands,

which are generally based more on the concept of

blending, Grands Crus Champagnes tend to be

produced by winegrowers. They often own vineyards

in a single locality and are therefore compelled to

focus on the statement as a point of difference. The

category is in a way a simple means of rediscovering

Champagne through a traditional lens by venturing

out to meet the passionate men and women who

make it.


NEWS

PUBS_CUVEES_G&G_N°50_OK_Mise en page 1 08/12/2022 10:26

COLLET: THE TENTH CHEF’S BOOK AWARD

Since its inception in

2013, the accolade

has awarded chefs who,

by publishing a book,

have showcased and

shared their gourmet

food expertise. Every

year, a panel of professionals

scrutinises the

editorial content, the

quality of the illustrations, the uniqueness of the theme, the graphics

and production quality of the books. For the 10th anniversary event,

double Michelin star chef Jean Sulpice from the Auberge du Père Bise

in Talloires, was selected for his book ‘Cake’, published by Flammarion.

He suggests readers explore the many facets of cake batter to make

everything, except cakes! Well, at least not in their usual form. They

range from savoury cakes, like steamed cake with lovage and hazelnut,

morel mushroom and comté cheese crouton cake, cauliflower and curry

stuffed cake, oyster and rye cake and snail croquette cake to sweet cakes,

like biscuit cake, passion fruit puff pastry tart, jasmine and chocolate

roll cake, Savoy blueberry pancake and rum and banana cocktail cake.

The Auberge du Père Bise provides Jean Sulpice with the privilege

of being able to express the multiple facets of Savoy beyond just the

primary sensations. He has one unwavering goal and that is to reveal the

beauty and variety afforded by the seasons on the plate. This undying

passion for nature compels him to be attentive and sensitive to its mood

swings, movements and murmurs at all times.

Cake – Flammarion – 176 pages - €29.90

WOMEN POWER IN CHAMPAGNE

Long the preserve of men, as with many

jobs in all sorts of industries, the role of

cellar master (mistress?) is becoming increasingly

female-driven. Thankfully. Change is

afoot, mentalities are evolving and the talent

shown by women in this discipline and many

others has been illustrated again and again.

Gabrielle Malagu, a vine and wine science

graduate with a national diploma in winemaking

from Dijon, has become the latest

female cellar master at Maison Gosset. She joined the company in

2017 as an assistant to Odilon de Varaine, the house’s cellar master and

deputy director. She will continue to hone her skills with him in the

cellar and for official winery representations. Kudos to Gabrielle!

@lephotographedudimanche

PODERI BIXIO:

WHEN THE PAST FOCUSES

ON THE FUTURE

PORTRAIT: The roots of the Bixio family date back two

centuries. Nino Bixio was an Italian general, patriot

and politician, and one of the most prominent gures

in the Italian unication. General Garibaldi wanted

Bixio by his side in the famous ‘Spedizione dei Mille’ –

or Expedition of the Thousand Soldiers – to unify Italy

under one lag. In 1866, he helmed the 7ª Brigade in the

battle of Custoza, in the province of Verona, and during

the war fell in love with a lady from Verona. That love

would be the start of the Veronese branch of the Bixio

family. The son was named Alfonso but it was the

grandfather Ottavio who founded the winery in 1969,

100 years after the rst Bixio trod on Veneto soils. Ten

years later, Emilio Bixio, the eldest son, became

winemaker and harvested his rst grapes the same

year, paving the way for his rst company, Fratelli Bixio.

Boasting over 50 years’ experience in the wine business,

we can offer the most prestigious wines from our

region, ranging from Soave to Valpolicella and the

Arcole DOC, all of them full-lavoured, majestic wines.

More recently, we have also invested in the more

southerly region of Molise, where we produce fragrant,

crisp wines in a scenic location near the sea. To this day,

Bixio remains proud of its roots.

Tel.: +39 045 610 4369

E-mail: bixiopoderi@gmail.com

Website: http://www.bixiopoderi.it/


7

NEWS

20° NORD 20°SUD, OR DEVELOPING A VOCATION

FOR BEAN TO BAR

It wasn’t that long ago that Mélanie Paulau turned her back on chocolate, finding it often too fatty, too sweet, or sometimes both.

visit to the Paris chocolate exhibition proved to be her eureka moment and

A opened up a future for her as a Bean to Bar chocolate maker with a natural,

delicious and meaningful chocolate. Since then, cocoa has been a part of her life!

She trained with seasoned chocolate makers before launching 20°Nord 20°Sud

in order to introduce the bean to bar concept to a wide audience.

The young brand recently released a limited edition gift box featuring two

outstanding chocolate bars honouring the 2018 and 2020 vintages of Chuao.

The Chuao cocoa bean is the most famous in the world and is grown in

Venezuela by passionate, committed producers. It is the only cocoa sold with a

certificate of origin for traceability. It owes its character to the unique location

of the plantation which boasts an ideal micro-climate combining humidity and

sunshine, rich soils and a lush environment. For its dark chocolate, the brand

only adds one ingredient to the cocoa – sugar, its natural flavour enhancer.

This is the incredible chocolate we tasted for you, pairing it with a remarkable

Banyuls Grand Cru.

MÉLANIE PAULAU, THE BRAND’S FOUNDER

2018 Chuao

Dry and raw yet also elegant with a velvety

sensation and delicate spiciness. An ethereal

style with lots of class.

2020 Chuao

Racy and delicate with a fine bitterness and

a delicious peppery note on the finish with

remarkable length.

2008 Banyuls Grand Cru Président Henry Vidal (94/100 Gilbert & Gaillard)

Mahogany colour with bricking. Intense nose recalling tobacco and exotic wood with very elegant aromatics. The attack

on the palate is powerful with chiselled aromas and persistent caramel tones to finish. Will continue to mature. With

these outstanding cocoas, it should be savoured fairly chilled to keep the right balance. This is one experience not to

be missed because it puts sheer enjoyment at its core.

This Banyuls is a sun-kissed wine originating in the far South of France, between the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean,

on schist soils. The vineyards grow on terraces that rise up from the coast to the valley floors inland.

This Grand Cru – of a similarly superior quality to the cocoa – is made from Grenache noir grapes entirely harvested

when overripe. The fruit is fortified then soaked for 20 days followed by 12 months’ maturation in medium-sized

barrels and demi-muids before maturing in the bottle in the underground cellar. Expect the unexpected when two

products grown 7,500 km apart finally meet!

https://20nord20sud.com/fr/ • https://www.terresdestempliers.fr/fr


FOUR

WINEMAKERS

FOR WINTER

2022

CHÂTEAU CAMBON

LA PELOUSE

2015

HAUT-MÉDOC

23,90€

YANNICK ARDOUIN

CAVAVIN ISTRES

38, Chemin du bord de Crau

13800 ISTRES

+33 4 42 47 12 37

istres@cavavin.fr

CHAMPAGNE

GOSSET

Grand Blanc de Blancs

CHAMPAGNE

54,90€

PASCAL CHAUDOY

CAVAVIN LES SABLES D’OLONNE

16, rue Bisson

85100 Les Sables d’Olonne

+33 2 51 23 62 68

lessables@cavavin.fr

FREY

SOHLER

CRÉMANT D’ALSACE

11,20€

MARC GACHET

CAVAVIN PERTUIS

ZAC St-Martin, Route d’Aix, Les Bertranes

40100 DAX

+33 4 90 68 17 58

pertuis@cavavin.fr

DOMAINE MILLET

Vaucoupin

2021

CHABLIS PREMIER CRU

28,55€

CARINE DUBOSPERTUS

CAVAVIN NOISY LE SEC

79, rue Jean Jaurès

93130 Noisy le Sec

+33 1 48 43 44 43

noisylesec@cavavin.fr

CAVAVIN_GG50_PAGE_7.indd 1 29/11/2022 11:27:01

7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France

Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88

Editorial Directors:

François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard

Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard

Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe

Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, François Bezuidenhout,

Olivier Delorme, Matthieu Gaillard, James Turnbull

Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard

Contributors to this issue: Jean-Paul Burias,

Alain Echalier, Isabelle Escande, Florian Glémot

DipWSET, Daniel , Francesco Saverio

Russo, Sylvain Patard, Samarie Smith-Meletiou

DipWSET, Frank Rousseau

Translation: Sharon Nagel, Marika Quarti

Sales and Marketing Director:

Etienne Gaillard : +33 6 30 97 87 26

etienne@gilbertgaillard.com

Advertising France:

Bordeaux - Charentes: Frédéric Comet:

+33 6 27 58 47 06 - fcomet@gilbertgaillard.com

Corsica - Languedoc - Provence - Rhône Valley:

Nicolas Sanseigne: +33 6 46 86 80 01 -

nsanseigne@gilbertgaillard.com

Jura - Loire Valley - Savoy - South West -

Roussillon: Caroline Gilbert: +33 6 84 92 57 61 -

caroline@gilbertgaillard.com

Alsace -Beaujolais - Burgundy - Champagne:

Lucie Jeandel: +33 6 77 72 16 04 -

ljeandel@gilbertgaillard.com

Advertising Italy: Sandra Sirvente:

(+33) 7 63 87 13 13 - ssirvente@gilbertgaillard.com

Advertising Spain, Portugal: Thibault Leray:

(+33) 6 84 01 57 24 - tleray@gilbertgaillard.com

Advertising Central and Eastern Europe:

Philippe Ricros: +33 7 61 76 01 22 -

pricros@gilbertgaillard.com

Advertising Latam : Vivien Morvan

+33 7 61 76 01 02 – vmorvan@gilbertgaillard.com

Marketing coordinator: Lucie Le Gall: +33 7 87 07 78 76

l.legall@gilbertgaillard.com

Production: Isabelle Méjean-Plé - Tapioka Conseil:

+33 6 77 12 77 98 - tapiokaconseil@gmail.com

Lay-out: Lise Delattre - Com l’Hirondelle: +33 9 81 47 75 25

Murielle Guégan - Impactea Concept: +33 6 59 32 08 65

Printed in Spain: Matthieu Battini - Carré Collé:

+33 6 87 27 12 65

Gilbert & Gaillard Tasting South-Africa:

Petru Venter, General Manager: +27 82 787 1784 -

petru@gilbertgaillard.com

Olivier Duroy, Area Manager: +27 72 389 1083 -

oduroy@gilbertgaillard.com

Matthieu Gaillard, Brand Ambassador: +27 66 429 9219

International Distribution: Pineapple Media Ltd -

http://www.pineapple-media.com

Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative and Editorial

director: Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: Fourth quarter 2022 • Legal publication n° pending •ISSN 2110-6762 • Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form

is expressly prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articles are given for information only and have no publicity purpose.


9

17 CHAMPAGNE GRANDS CRUS

UNDER SCRUTINY

BY ALAIN ECHALIER

PHOTOGRAPHS:

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES

© PASCAL MAILLET-CONTOZ

What credit should be given to the Grand Cru statement in Champagne? And

where does it stem from? We reveal all about its history, definition and the nuances

between these 17 jewels in Champagne’s crown, featuring interviews of ten

producers located in the relevant villages.

A VIEW OF THE VINEYARDS IN AVIZE IN JUNE


CHAMPAGNE

TERROIR

A MELODIC LINNET SINGING IN THE VINEYARDS AT CHAMPAGNE PAUL DÉTHUNE

What does the word ‘Cru’ mean in the wine sphere? This is a question I am

often asked by my friends when they visit France. The dictionary defines

it as “a group of land considered from the perspective of the specific crop grown

there”. And the first example given is not for wine, but for “French butter from

Normandy or Brittany”, which has a distinctive flavour, due to its ‘cru’ or growth.

The concept therefore goes well beyond wine and refers to the original birthplace

of any product linked to gastronomy. In fact, its etymology alludes to ‘growth’. So,

any product from a good ‘growth’ or ‘cru’ is one that grows on a renowned ‘terroir’

and, by extension, offers good quality.

IN CHAMPAGNE, A ‘CRU’ IS ACTUALLY A VILLAGE

For wine, the finest growths, or Grands Crus, have varying definitions depending

on the wine region itself. In 1855, Bordeaux chose to classify its chateaux – Château

Latour, for instance, is a Premier Grand Cru Classé. Burgundy favoured a more

vineyard-centric approach, calling them ‘climats’ – Musigny is thus a Grand Cru in

the Côte de Nuits. For Champagne, this official hierarchy came later, in 1911, and

it revolves around villages – Verzy, for example, is a Grand Cru on the Montagne

de Reims.


11

CHAMPAGNE

TERROIR

A CLASSIFICATION TO PACIFY

GROWERS

A VINEYARD BLOCK IN AY CHAMPAGNE BY CHAMPAGNE COLLET

CHARDONNAY DOM LEGRAS FRAPART

The supply end of the Champagne wine market

differs from others in that it is divided between

grape growers and the prominent Champagne

houses – brands like Gosset, Moët & Chandon

and Pommery – which buy the grapes. Some grape

growers also produce their own Champagnes or

are members of co-operatives. There are therefore

several types of stakeholders, whose interests can

sometimes be very different.

The lack of grapes caused by phylloxera at the

turn of the 20 th century led to a serious crisis,

compounded by storms and frost in 1907 and 1910,

which produced poor crops. Rather than have to

increase the price of scarce grapes, some Champagne

houses chose to source fruit outside the

appellation area of the time. This gave rise to riots

and ‘punitive demonstrations’ targeting certain

negociants.

To restore peace, the production market was

reorganised and so it was that a growth scale,

which was already being used by some, became

widespread. The scale classifies all villages within

the Champagne appellation area, rating them at

percentages ranging from 80 to 100%. The rating

reflects the share of the price of a kilo of grapes

every year that the negociants are obliged to pay

the grape growers. Some villages were awarded

a score of 100% – these are Champagne’s Grands

Crus. Initially, there were very few of them but

over the years, the scale was reviewed on several

occasions and there are now 17 villages classified

as Grands Crus.

IS THE CLASSIFICATION BASED

ON SUB-SOILS?

The history of the Champagne Crus shows that

the criteria used to award these percentages were

fairly variable. Depending on the crops and the

abundance or not of grapes, but also sometimes

on negotiations between grape growers and the

Champagne houses on a village by village basis –


THE SUN SHINES

OVER AMBONNAY

some growers occasionally have vineyards in several villages – the scale changed many

times. The ratings changed, there were sometimes different ratings for white and black

grapes, and villages were incorporated into the appellation area. So, what really are the

criteria?

In Champagne, there is widespread agreement that the quality of the fruit stems from the

chalky sub-soils. In fact, of the 17 Grands Crus, 11 are villages on the Montagne de Reims

and 6 are in the Côte des Blancs. None of them are in the Marne Valley or in Aube, nor even

in the Côte des Bar. Both the Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Blancs have sub-soils

where chalk sometimes forms outcrops and is extremely deep. So, it is fair to assume that

if the scale was approved among industry members, it is primarily due to the sub-soils,

but probably also to local micro-climates and sometimes to cyclical balances of power.

EU law, which outlaws price fixing, led to the demise of the remuneration system based on

the growth scale with the 2004 harvest, reinstating a free pricing regime. But the Grands

Crus villages were allowed to retain this now historic designation.

THE CHAMPAGNE HOUSES VERSUS THE WINEGROWERS

Very few of the prestige Champagnes produced by the prominent houses – the likes of

Celebris, Dom Pérignon, Cristal, La Grande Dame, Comtes de Champagne and Dom

Ruinart – state ‘Grand Cru’ on their labels.

The reason for this is that although most of the fruit in the blends generally comes from

the 17 villages entitled to the designation, regulations make it mandatory for all of the fruit

to come from them if companies want to use the Grand Cru statement. The problem is


13

CHAMPAGNE

TERROIR

EDOUARD, SYLVIE AND MICHEL AT CHAMPAGNE LANCELOT-ROYER

that production in these villages is insufficient for

the required volumes. The houses therefore blend

them with grapes from other growths which lend

the Champagnes complementary qualities.

However, the winegrowers who produce their own

Champagnes and are fortunate enough to own

vineyards in Grands Crus villages often use the

statement. Some of them also sell some of their

Grands Crus grapes to the Champagne houses,

which are always sold at a premium compared

with fruit from other villages. Nobody now denies

the superior quality of some vineyard sites, but

only a few producers publicise those sites. The

villages ranking at the pinnacle of the quality

pyramid are Ambonnay, Aÿ, Beaumont sur Vesle,

Bouzy, Louvois, Mailly-Champagne, Puisieulx,

Sillery, Tours-sur-Marne, Verzenay, Verzy, Avize,

Chouilly, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger and

Oiry. That’s for the definition part, now let’s head

off on our road trip to visit Champagne’s elite

producers.

CRAMANT- CHAMPAGNE

P. LANCELOT-ROYER

Michel Chauvet, Sylvie Lancelot’s husband, introduces

us to this Champagne house located in the

village of Cramant, in the Côte des Blancs. Both of

them are fifth-generation winegrowers and their

son Edouard Chauvet will take over from them.

They farm 5.3 hectares of vines, including 3 classified

Grand Cru in Cramant, along with Avize and

Oger. It stands to reason that they only produce

‘blanc de blancs’.

As a reminder, Chauvet explains that the name

‘Cramant’ comes from ‘chalk’, at the root of Grand

Cru status. Although the first 50 cm is earth, the

vines then put down roots deep into the chalk,

which is highly beneficial as evidenced by the

summer of 2022. Though hot and dry, the weather

did not cause too much suffering for their Grand

Cru vines – limestone is spongy and water is

retained through capillarity.

They produce a 100% Cramant vintage Champagne

which spends 7 years in their cellars. The 2015 label

Continue on page 16


TASTING

RARE BOTTLE

95 / 100

CHAMPAGNE

MAURICE VESSELLE

EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU CUVÉE RÉSERVÉE

Certified High Environmental Value since 2013, the vineyards are rooted in the

southern slopes of the Montagne de Reims. The Pinot noir-dominant grapes

for this label fully encapsulate the complexity of their 100% classified site.

The house is a Montagne de Reims benchmark, renowned for its mature vintages

and vinous, food-friendly Champagnes crafted by two passionate winegrowers...

The house was created in 1955 by Maurice Vesselle. His two sons, Didier

and Thierry, are now at its helm and pamper their nine hectares of

vines in Bouzy and Tours-sur-Marne all year round, as generations of

winegrowers have done before them. They use techniques such as tillage,

hilling up, ploughing back and soil amendments that were long considered

fanciful. However, their quest for depth in the soils is now the envy of many

vineyards. By taking such a conscientious approach to loosening their soils,

the Vesselle brothers not only encourage the Pinot noir and Chardonnay vines

to put down long-lasting roots, thereby revealing the full complexity of their

Bouzy vineyard sites, they also limit the effects of drought and avoid the use

of herbicides.

When work in the vineyard is complete, the two growers transition to

winemakers to produce their range of Champagnes. This Extra-Brut Grand

Cru Cuvée Réservée label is blended from 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay.

It is fermented without malolactic fermentation like all the winery’s bottlings,

allowing the wine to fully retain its freshness and minerality. It is then

matured on lees in the estate’s chalk cellars for five years, mostly alongside

its collection of vintage Champagnes, before Extra-brut dosage (4 grams) is

added. This Grand Cru displays a pretty golden hue. Its rich nose is redolent

of fruit paste coupled with a subtle mineral tone. The attack on the palate

is energetic and very plump with aromatic presence that grows in intensity

through to the finish, revealing a distinctive tangy touch. Once again, Didier

and Thierry Vesselle have crafted a hallmark Champagne, full of verve, which

sits nicely within the range alongside the Hauts Chemins or vintage offerings

fully equipped to withstand the test of time. The philosophy here is plain

for all to see, and that is to treat the vineyard sites of Bouzy with respect.

A potential companion for sweetbreads.

SELECTED BY


15

VINEYARDS IN CRAMANT IN

THE CÔTE DES BLANCS

BORDEAUX

TRAVEL

THE H A R V E S T A T THE

LEGRAS-FRAPART ESTATE

BOTTLES WITH STAPLES AND

CORK IN THE CELLAR AT

DOMAINE FRANCK BONVILLE

16 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

CHAMPAGNE

TERROIR

will be released at the start of 2023. Since Covid ended, Michel has noticed that his

customers seem to be increasingly drawn to the higher-end labels. And Cramant

has a superb reputation. There is demand in Denmark, the Netherlands, the United

States and Japan.

The Grands Crus are highly prized, adds Chauvet, who also sells some fruit to Billecart-Salmon.

By way of comparison, 1 kg of basic growth grapes fetches between 5

and 6 euros, whereas Grands Crus grapes are more in the range of 8 euros. Often,

Moët et Chandon – the largest producer – sets the tempo for fruit prices, and the

others follow suit.

OIRY/CHOUILLY – CHAMPAGNE LEGRAS-FRAPART

Located in Oiry, this boutique winery farms less than 2 hectares of vines, most of

them situated in Chouilly. Traditionally, you need 3 hectares of vines to be able to

produce your own Champagne, explains Gaylord Legras, who therefore combines

winegrowing and teaching commerce at the Champagne viticulture college.

GAYLORD LEGRAS COMBINES WINEGROWING AND TEACHING COMMERCE


17

CHAMPAGNE

TERROIR

OLIVIER BONVILLE & FERDINAND RUELLE-DUDEL

In Chouilly, his Chardonnay vines date back to

1939 and 1958 and are therefore old. They grow in

two blocks 300 metres apart with the same hillside

incline. Legras sells most of his grapes and

produces a near-single vineyard Champagne with

the remaining fruit.

A Grand Cru, he points out, is a Champagne with

more identifiable typicity, particularly when it is a

single varietal like his own. The Grand Cru statement

is meaningful to his customers, particularly

in Sweden where he sells his Champagne – his

wife is Swedish.

He carries out vineyard work himself, with the

help of a farm worker. He adds 20% of reserve

wines from his stocks of the same two vineyard

blocks to the current vintage. His Champagne is

then matured for 7 years and dosage of around 6g

of sugar per litre is added. After release, his wine

develops aromas of toast and walnuts, but even

though it is a Grand Cru it does not really benefit

from being laid down for many years. He suggests

that it should be drunk within a year or two. With a

price tag of around twenty euros a bottle, why not?

AVIZE – CHAMPAGNE FRANCK

BONVILLE

Ferdinand Ruelle-Dudel, who works with fourth-generation

winegrower Olivier Bonville, introduces

us to the winery. While Ferdinand Ruelle-

Dudel is mostly tasked with sales and some cellar

work, the roles are reversed for Bonville.

The company farms 15 hectares of vines – 9 of them

in Avize, 4.5 in Oger and 1.5 in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger.

It therefore only produces Grand Cru Champagnes

and only grows Chardonnay. Asked about the

present-day meaning of Grand Cru, Ruelle-Dudel

stresses that whilst the trade-based growth scale is

no longer in use, its implications are still very real

for the fruit. Basically, he says, if you take a map

and identify the areas where chalk forms outcrops

with East-facing villages, that’s where you will find

Champagne’s Grands Crus.

Franck Bonville Champagnes produce blends of

Avize and Oger. Avize wines often display abun-


CHAMPAGNE

TERROIR

dant freshness with notes of white flowers, citrus

fruits and a measure of mineral-driven salinity

on the finish. Oger, on the other hand, is situated

more in a dip – the soils are slightly deeper and

consequently the wines are more generous and

appetising. Ed: in other words, slightly less acidic

and fruitier. Blending the two villages therefore

makes perfect sense.

The Bonville family actually comes from Oger and

originally sold its grapes to negociants. But falling

demand in the 1930s, and the consequential drop

in prices of land, prompted it to buy vineyards in

the surrounding area, which meant Avize. At the

time, everything was done by horse, so growers

had to stay within a maximum radius of 2 hours

on horseback. Therefore, although the family has

a lot of vineyard blocks, they are all fairly close to

one another.

The winery also produces single growth Champagnes

– from Avize, Oger and Le Mesnil – and

whilst it admits that Le Mesnil is perhaps the

most prestigious of the three due to the presence

of Champagne Salon and Krug’s Clos du Mesnil, it

would never say a disparaging word against Oger.

The Bonvilles love Oger!

The winery also belongs to the Grands Crus d’Exception

association which jointly produces a

Champagne from all 17 Champagne Grands Crus.

The wine, called C17, is due to be released at the

end of 2022 – but it has been entirely pre-sold

ahead of release.

ALFRED & FRANCK BONVILLE AT HARVEST TIME

THOMAS LOMBARD PRESENTS A BOTTLE AND THE VINEYARD SITES

EPERNAY

CHAMPAGNE LOMBARD

Thomas Lombard, the current CEO of this

family-run company, takes us on a tour. Although

it owns 5.5 hectares of Premier Cru vines, the

family also produces Champagne as a negociant

– NM – sourcing grapes from 55 hectares of vines,

10 of them classified as Grand Cru. These include

Avize, Cramant, Oger and Ambonnay. Lombard

stresses the long-term partnership arrangements

with grape growers – although contracts can be

renewed on an annual basis, some of them stem


19

CHAMPAGNE

TERROIR

A BOOKLET EXPLAINING THE VINEYARD SITES AT CHAMPAGNE

LOMBARD

from his grandfather’s era. There are no mandatory

requirements but Maison Lombard takes a

very proactive role. “Obviously, we buy grapes”,

he points out, “and not wines. We conduct soil

surveys, discuss the ripeness of the fruit and

are on site during harvesting. Prices are on the

increase and securing new partnerships is challenging

because competition is fierce”.

Lombard believes that the essence of a Grand

Cru is the consistent quality of the grapes, from

one vintage to another. The vines are less prone

to adverse weather, due to the chalky sub-soils.

The Lombards craft every style of Grand Cru

Champagne – from blends of several villages

and single-growth labels from just one village to

single-vineyard Champagnes. The closer you get

to single-vineyard offerings, the more likely the

audience will feature wine enthusiasts, sommeliers

or winegrowers themselves. This paves

the way for extensive maturation periods and

consequently, no dosage, which produces saline

and iodine-like notes on the finish. The winery

has made it its mission to be transparent with

its customers and its labels feature a plethora of

information, from the vineyard site and harvest

date to bottling and disgorgement dates and

dosage in grams of sugar. There is sometimes even

a map so that the vineyard blocks can be identified!

Exports account for approximately half of volumes

and demand for Grands Crus Champagnes is

highest in countries such as Italy, Germany, Japan,

Denmark and Singapore.

CELEBRATION OF THE CENTENARY ANNIVERSARY AT COGEVI 7-8 OCT 21

AŸ AND EPERNAY

CHAMPAGNE COLLET

The house is presented to us by sales director Carl

Cercellier accompanied by product manager Elena

Lapie. Champagne Collet is in fact the brand name

of a very large co-operative winery – the Coopérative

Générale des Vignerons, or Cogevi, which

has 850 member growers farming 850 hectares of

vines mostly around Aÿ and Epernay. The co-operative

embraces a total 167 villages, 17 of them classified

as Grand Cru. Cercellier goes back over the


THOMAS LOMBARD IN HIS

VINEYARD

A BARREL IN THE CELLAR

AT CHAMPAGNE LOMBARD

VILLA COLLET

SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

21

CHAMPAGNE

TERROIR

winery’s history: “Despite the creation of the growth scale in 1911, which made

it compulsory to buy grapes grown in Champagne, the First World War – which

took place here – devastated the region. A few years on and winegrowers were still

struggling. So they decided to establish a co-operative, Champagne’s first, and one

of the first in France. In 1928, Raoul Collet, who was a member of the winery and

would go on to manage it for 30 years, lent his name to the co-operative’s brand,

which became ‘Collet’.

Cogevi now supplies many of the prominent houses but also continues to produce

and market its own Champagne – Champagne Collet – directly. It has several

labels, including Brut Art déco, a blend of 7 Grands Crus along with 13 Premiers

Crus and a prestige label containing 90% Grands Crus. Only one, though, is a

single-growth Grand Cru – and is labelled as such – from a single-vineyard selection

of one hectare in Aÿ. “This is more Burgundy than Champagne”, jokes Cercellier,

referring to Burgundy’s extreme terroir-driven approach. This tiny block,

which belongs to the co-operative, produces a vintage Champagne matured for 8

years with 8g of dosage. The vintage currently available is the 2012. Here, the cellar

master has remained unchanged for 28 years.

THE HOUSE CHAMPAGNE AT THE COGEVI WINERY


SOPHIE AND PIERRE DÉTHUNE

“Perhaps one day we will make a Champagne combining all 17 Grands Crus,

because we do have them”, says Cercellier. “And there are other plans in the pipeline

for the Grands Crus. But that does not imply that we can pull the rug from

under our Art déco label!” In Champagne, the impact of every detail has to be

carefully weighed.

AMBONNAY

CHAMPAGNE PAUL DÉTHUNE

Farther North, on the Montagne de Reims, is this house managed by Pierre

Déthune, which is named after his father. It is located in Ambonnay and boasts

7 hectares under vine, all of them situated in this Grand Cru village. “Ambonnay

has 200 to 300 metres’ depth of chalk, with some clay on top – it is neither too

impermeable nor too absorbent”, explains Déthune. The land also faces South-

South-East and therefore benefits from the morning sun which, unlike the evening

sun, is not too hot. Here, rainfall is moderate compared with Marne, or even with

the other side of the Montagne de Reims where summer storms can be severe. The

mountain seems to protect against disasters, and the impact of hail is therefore

marginal.

Obviously, the favourite grape here is Pinot noir – the location is referred to as

the ‘Côte des Noirs’, with a ratio of 70% versus 30% Chardonnay. The Chardonnay

grapes grown here taste fruitier and less minerally than in the Côte des Blancs.

Champagne Paul Déthune embraces 10 different labels, running the gamut from


23

CHAMPAGNE

TERROIR

A CLOSURE USING A HEMP CORD AT CHAMPAGNE PAUL DÉTHUNE

wines matured in stainless steel tanks to large and

small barrels. “You have to provide a development

in the range”, explains Déthune. When you are

unfamiliar with Champagne, you generally start

with stainless steel and then progress towards

increasingly complex wines. His high-end label is

a single-vineyard, half Pinot noir, half Chardonnay

Champagne matured in barrels – even the oak for

the barrels comes from the forest of Ambonnay.

The bottle stopper has a cord of hemp around the

cork, as a nod to techniques of a bygone era.

Déthune is also preparing an eleventh label, with

no added sulphur. This requires perfectly healthy

fruit, but the flavour is different and so he has

therefore decided to rise to the challenge.

AMBONNAY

CHAMPAGNE LAURIANNE LEJOUR

A DOSAGE SESSION AT CHAMPAGNE LAURIANNE LEJOUR

Laurianne Lejour started out in 2016 when she

inherited a few vineyard blocks from her grandmother

in Ambonnay. As a craftsperson who

studied woodwork at the Boule school in Paris, she

hesitated. The 9 blocks totalling 1.5 hectares were

not only of a very high standard – because of their

location in Ambonnay and Bouzy – they were also

close together. This passionate enthusiast of all

things manual decided to grasp the nettle. Using

part of a winery and equipment lent to her by a

friend in Beaumont-sur-Vesle, she began producing

Champagne. She does all the jobs that can be

done manually in her vineyard herself – pruning

and training for instance – and of course crushes

her grapes separately and ferments them in her

tanks.

Grands Crus, she claims, are all about how farmers

observe nature. The reason Pinot noir has been

grown in Ambonnay for so long is because it is

a little better here than elsewhere. The quality is

more consistent, and this is obvious even in the

vineyards. For example, when there is a hard frost

in other locations, on the hillside in Ambonnay

there are only tiny patches.

Lejour has a soft spot for tense, minimalist wines

with no malolactic fermentation. Her range is


LAURIANNE LEJOUR IN

FRONT OF THE GRAPE PRESS

already impressive. Some of her Ambonnay grapes are deliberately fermented

separately because she can feel a nice, faint sourness in them that is typical

of the village and she wants to preserve it. Her dosages – from 0 to 6g and

often 0 – are readjusted with pinpoint precision every year. It provides her

with an opportunity to gather round a few friends and colleagues and give

them a tasting of all the wines where dosages have incremental sugar levels.

Usually, 9 out of 10 judges choose the same thing – “everybody agrees on a

good Champagne!”

BEAUMONT-SUR-VESLE

CHAMPAGNE PAUL SADI

Jérôme Portier, the house’s owner, is our guide. He owns 6.5 hectares himself

and buys grapes from a further 2.8 hectares, though he also grows these

grapes too. Arrangements in Champagne can be complex. The vineyards

include 2 ha located in Beaumont-sur-Vesle and Verzy. Beaumont has always

been considered a Grand Cru, “its status is long-standing”, explains Portier.

The reasons for this are the aspect of this Montagne de Reims village and the

proximity of a press. Although Portier obviously grows some Pinot noir, he

mostly produces Chardonnay. His Chardonnay is different though – it has

some faint Pinot noir characters, in other words it is more structured and

fruit-forward.


25

CHAMPAGNE PAUL SADI’S CELLAR

JÉRÔME PORTIER WITH HIS WIFE AND HIS PARENTS

In still wines – i.e. before the secondary bottle fermentation – Portier says you can

identify the Grand Cru sites. “We make single village and single vineyard Champagnes

from them but we also add a little to our non-vintage Brut, to enhance

it”. Champagne Paul Sadi is one of the contributors to the C17 association label,

as is the afore-mentioned Champagne Franck Bonville. In this case, malolactic

fermentation is blocked to retain tension in the Champagne and dosage varies

from 8 to 19g. “For our long-standing customers, the Grand Cru statement on the

label of the bottle is not that important, but it becomes meaningful for attracting

new customers”. This sets them apart from the major negociants. However, some

Premiers Crus can be more expensive than Grands Crus, depending on the winemaking

techniques used, for instance the use of wood. When you taste them, it

isn’t hard to understand why.

BOUZY - LA COMMANDERIE DIFFUSION

Manager Henri Beaufort introduces us to this winery, which was named La

Commanderie Diffusion by his great grandfather in the 1930s. The winery is located

in this Montagne de Reims Grand Cru village that is famed for its Pinot noir [Ed:

it was even home to a famous red Coteaux Champenois wine] although Beaufort

points out that this depends on the location of the vineyards within the village.

Bouzy is generally warm and suited to growing Pinot noir, except for the blocks at

the bottom of the hillside which are cooler and more conducive to growing Chardonnay.

In some ways, it can be likened to Coteaux Bourguignons. The Chardonnay


CHAMPAGNE

TERROIR

here though is different to its Côte des Blancs alter

ego in that it is less minerally. Beaufort produces

a Blanc de Noirs Champagne, entirely from Pinot

noir, along with a single varietal Chardonnay

Blanc de Blancs. Both are matured for 3 to 5 years

with Brut dosage of 7 to 9g/litre subsequently

added. His rarer medium-dry Champagne has

dosage of around 35g/litre. In the 1930s, Champagne

was a pudding wine and this medium-dry

iteration is a remnant of that era. Beaufort himself

prefers Champagne as an aperitif.

HENRI BEAUFORT IN HIS WINE CELLAR

VERZENAY

CHAMPAGNE MICHEL ARNOULD

& FILS

Thomas Gibelin chose to work in this family-run

company with his father Thierry and his uncle

Patrick Arnould. The farm boasts 12 hectares,

virtually all of them in Verzenay, except for two

in the neighbouring village of Verzy. All of their

Champagnes – and there are a dozen labels –

are therefore classified as Grand Cru. Here, no

grapes are either bought or sold and everything

is “home-made”. Gibelin proudly explains that

the clay-limestone soils and northern location on

the Montagne de Reims are at the root of Verzenay’s

powerful Pinot noir. “These are the raciest

in Champagne”, because they are thick and fleshy

on the palate. Vines have been grown in Verzenay

since 1810 and the village was already classified

Grand Cru in 1950 at a time when only 9 villages

were entitled to the ranking. And although the

village does not boast any star winegrowers,

customers do not come to Verzenay by accident.

Champagnes Michel Arnould & fils welcomes

them with open arms, even though strong demand

prevents them from selling to any new customers.

Once again, for less demanding consumers the

Grand Cru designation features on labels and

acts as an initial magnet. As soon as they become

more demanding, however, Verzenay and sometimes

even the precise location of the vineyards,

become the key issue. The winery farms 52 different

vineyard blocks and is gradually heading

THE COOPERAGE AT CHAMPAGNE MICHEL ARNOULD & FILS


27

THIERRY GIBELIN, THOMAS GIBELIN AND PATRICK ARNOULD

towards more single vineyard offerings. Fortunately, despite their number, the

blocks are all located in 7 or 8 small localities, which means that some fruit can be

harvested and fermented together. For example, the range features a ‘Mémoire de

Vignes’ label made from vines that are over 60 years old. For its non-vintage Brut

Chardonnay, the company swaps some Pinot noir for Chardonnay in order to add

a little acidity. “But the Chardonnays come from a colleague in Le Mesnil sur Oger

– we stay within the privileged realms of the Grands Crus!”

So is a Grand Cru Champagne better? Understandably, the complex winemaking

and maturation techniques and extreme variety of this majestic pour means that

there is no one-size-fits-all answer. Despite this, it is tempting to say that terroir

speaks loudest and these Champagnes always deliver that extra spark of spirit and

the richness and complexity that have carved out their reputation. The Grands Crus

embody artisanal winegrowing that plays second fiddle – both in volume and awareness

– to the mass-market Champagnes sold every year. Either way, they offer the

assurance of a return to Champagne’s roots, the certainty of tasting the reality of

Champagne’s vineyard sites in an increasingly globalised world. For this reason

alone, these superlative quality Champagnes will always deserve our attention.


4 covers: France, Italy, Spain, South Africa

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CAHORS,

FULLY COMMITTED

TO THE 21 ST CENTURY

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS

PHOTOGRAPHS:


© ALAIN AUZANNEAU

© LOT TOURISME C. ORY

In 1971, Cahors was awarded appellation status with 500 hectares under vine.

Half a century later, this benchmark appellation in South-West France now

boasts nearly 4,500 hectares of bearing vineyards spread across 45 localities.

This quantum leap in acreage is a genuine symbol of success…

THE VINEYARDS OF LAMARTINE


SOUTH-WEST

FUTURE

A LOOP OF THE LOT NEAR THE VILLAGE OF ALBAS

Nestled in a meander of the Lot, the town of Cahors displays its monuments passed

down from Antiquity and the Middle Ages amidst the steep hills and dizzy heights

of the limestone plateaux. Behind its historical legacy lies a wine region steeped in

history and tradition, reflecting an outstanding cultural heritage. Created in 1971, the

Cahors Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) superseded VDQS or Vin délimité de

qualité supérieure status. In the heart of the Quercy region, famous for its other regional

specialities – truffles and foie gras – Malbec has become a go-to varietal. Unknown

just twenty years ago, this black, charming, authentic grape has become fashionable

on every continent. Originally from Cahors, it accounts for a minimum of 70% of each

wine; Merlot and Tannat can be added to the blend, but only up to 30%. The range of

wines on offer – all of them red – allows the appellation to capitalise on the identity of

this distinctive grape variety and a wide array of vineyard sites, already popular with

the King of France, François I, in the 16th century. Both of these attributes combine with

an affordable range of prices and wide variety of labels and styles. The wines display a

hallmark style and authenticity with appealing rich, powerful aromas and generous

tannins. These 21st century wines are skilfully made using expert techniques, and stand

in stark contrast to the rustic Cahors of the 1980s. They flirt with the excellence of their

prestigious neighbours in Bordeaux and other South-West appellations.

CHÂTEAU EUGÉNIE:

A RICH, VARIED RANGE OF WINES

Nestled on the terraces of the Lot valley, halfway up the hillsides on the limestone

plateaux, Château Eugénie’s vineyards bask in generous sunshine and thrive on


31

SOUTH-WEST

FUTURE

JÉRÔME COUTURE IN HIS WINERY

an impressive array of soils that lend the wines

their signature style. Stemming from a long line

of passionate winegrowers, it has belonged to

the Couture family since 1470, according to local

archives, and they have made it a benchmark

within the appellation. “Malbec is internationally

recognised and has a real identity in Cahors”,

explains Jérôme Couture. “It is a flagship grape

variety in the South-West, with a genuine international

reputation”. Export sales, which account for

20% of volumes, are mainly in Canada, the United

States and Europe. This success is epitomised by

four recognisable labels: supple and fruity Tradition;

the indulgent Tsar Pierre Le Grand; the structured

and distinctive Réserve de l’Aïeul; and Haute

Collection, a silky, complex wine.

CHÂTEAU VINCENS:

FAMILY EXPERTISE

MICHEL VINCENS, THE FOUNDER OF CHÂTEAU VINCENS WITH HIS WIFE DANIÈLE IN 1982

The history of this benchmark estate began in 1919

when the first plot of vines was bought by Prosper

Vincens after he returned from First World War.

In 1982, Michel and Danièle Vincens decided to

leave the co-operative winery where they had been

taking their grapes for many years, and embark on

the great adventure of making their own wine. They

created Domaine des Vincens, which a few years

later became Château Vincens. The present-day

property extends over 43 hectares of vines planted

on predominantly limestone plateaux at an altitude

of 300 metres, overlooking the Lot valley. Isabelle

Vincens and her brother Philippe, the third generation

of winegrowers, have played their part in

expanding the estate and bolstering its reputation

by combining technical performance, respect

for vineyard sites and the elegance of the finest

Malbecs. “Malbec is a real advantage in export

markets,” explains Philippe Vincens. “It is known

worldwide, partly because of the wines of Cahors,

but also thanks to considerable investments by the

top Argentinean companies across the globe. Our

importers are now delighted to be able to introduce

their customers to its birthplace, Cahors. As

the styles are very different, being able to show the


SOUTH-WEST

FUTURE

products side by side is very worthwhile for them”.

The wines are affordable, modern, balanced and

more complementary to each other than rivals. In

export markets, which for this estate account for

40% of production, they also offer a very appealing

addition to the range.

PHILIPPE VINCENS

VIGNOBLES PELVILLAIN:

MALBEC AS A LEGACY

“I have vines in my blood, I am destined to be

a winegrower”. Didier Pelvillain is a key figure

in the Cahors wine industry. In 1978, he joined

the family-run vineyard established in the 19th

century, before taking over at the helm in 1993

with his two brothers Arnaud and Francis. In

2013, they bought Château du Théron, bringing

their total area under vine up to 52 hectares, along

with a trading company. Since 2018, Didier Pelvillain

has been the sole manager of this benchmark

estate. A grand master of the Cahors wine brotherhood,

he is a tireless promoter of the appellation,

spreading the word far and wide about its many

qualities. “Winegrowers have done a lot of work in

their vineyards and their wineries to draw out the

quintessential qualities of Malbec and its vineyard

sites,” he explains. “Its excellent value for money

is a real bonus, especially in export markets.

Cahors is a small appellation with a superlative

grape variety, but it is still considered in France to

be a very tannic, robust wine. We have to be very

proactive in our communications and publicise

the way our wines have been resurrected so that

we can safeguard our place at the heart of the top

French wine regions”. The estate’s vineyards span

three different vineyard sites within the appellation:

terraces at Château du Port, the Cénac limestone

plateau in Albas and rolling hills at Domaine

du Théron in Prayssac. “Most of our established

markets are stable, with 30% of our sales in export

markets”, adds Didier Pelvillain. “However, the

impact of the different crises affecting France and

Europe is starting to be felt this year”. This has not

affected the wines, though, which remain at the

pinnacle of quality.

DIDIER PELVILLAIN IN HIS VINEYARDS


33

CHÂTEAU DE GAUDOU

CHÂTEAU DE GAUDOU:

EMOTION, CONVIVIALITY

AND SHARING!

CHÂTEAU DE GAUDOU: WHERE MALBEC IS PIVOTAL

With its traditional Quercy dovecotes, Château de Gaudou looks out over a 60-hectare

vineyard. Fabrice Durou, the seventh generation of winegrowers on this family estate,

has been running it since 2000. His standards are uncompromising in his constant

quest for quality - he has chosen to reduce yields and takes a hands-off approach in the

winery to maximise the quality of his wines. “Our motto is to convey emotion, conviviality

and sharing”, stresses Durou. “We are the Old World version, where Malbec grows in

its original cradle with very restrictive collective specifications. It is grown using ancient

customs which lend it growth status on a global level”. Over the years, Malbec has garnered

a great reputation and become a real asset for exports. Château de Gaudou produces wines

whose freshness, fruitiness, appetising and very varied flavours boast real appeal. “Malbec

is the pivotal aspect of our work where we are on a constant learning curve”, adds Durou.

“The region’s winegrowers are very dynamic when it comes to selling direct to consumers,

attending major exhibitions in France and abroad. South American producers have strong

ties with the North American market, and this has popularised Malbec throughout the New

World, opening up even more opportunities for us. Although we didn’t initiate the trend,

our wines are accessible both for a broad-ranging consumer audience and connoisseurs”.


DIDIER PELVILLAIN IN

THE WINERY

FABRICE DUROU IN

HIS VINEYARDS

THE ENTIRE BALDÈS

FAMILY


35

SOUTH-WEST

FUTURE

CLOS TRIGUEDINA:

MASTERFUL MALBEC

JEAN-LUC BALDÈS TASTING HIS WINES

JEAN-LUC AND SABINE BALDÈS TASTING THEIR WINES

Clos Triguedina has been home to the Baldès

family since 1830. It is the epitome of Cahors

with its heritage steeped in the history of people

and wines. It is also the spot where pilgrims en

route to Santiago de Compostela would stop to

eat. The estate, which is often considered as one

of the original cornerstones of the appellation,

is the culmination of work by seven generations

of winegrowers who have ensured its continuity

and development. Jean-Luc Baldès and his wife

Sabine have seamlessly slipped into this role at

the estate’s helm. Regularly celebrated by the

press and awarded by judging panels at national

and international competitions, they have

nurtured their wines all the way to the pinnacle

of the appellation. “Cahors wines have benefited

from a continuous improvement in quality over

the last few decades, and their sales have been

driven by constant canvassing by the estates”,

believes Sabine Baldès. “Malbec is a real bonus

in export markets, but it is not always the only

angle of approach. We can showcase our winegrowing

expertise, history, family or even the

vineyard sites. Our sales momentum is fuelled by

the consistent quality of the wines and the diversity

of the range”. One of the estate’s USPs is that

it produces modern yet traditional, powerful yet

elegant wines at affordable prices. “A fine wine can

be drunk young but also kept for a long time”, says

Jean-Luc Baldès. “We specialise in very age-worthy

wines. In 2021, we released bottles and magnums

of 1971 Clos Triguedina for the 50th anniversary of

the appellation”.

CHÂTEAU NOZIÈRE:

CAPITALISING ON TERROIR

Ideally situated on sunny terraces in Vire-sur-Lot,

this 55-hectare property is one of the most

beautiful vineyard locations in the Cahors wine

region. Claude Guitard and his son Olivier grow

Malbec, aka Côt and Auxerrois, over a mosaic of


SOUTH-WEST

FUTURE

vineyards, lending the wines their typicity. “Our

objective is to gain an in-depth understanding

of our vineyard sites so that Malbec can express

its full potential”, says Olivier Guitard. “Cahors’

success stems largely from the dynamic mindset

of its winegrowers. The variety of wine styles and

production models is extensive, and this leads

to healthy competition between producers, and

a good reputation has been garnered over the

past few decades. Malbec has established itself

as a calling card in many countries. It makes up

for the lack of awareness of our small appellation

abroad”. Drawing on their remarkable expertise,

Claude and Olivier Guitard approach their task

like two alchemists driven by excellence. “Our

aim is to fully get to know our grape variety and

above all our vineyard sites so that we can create

a coherent range of wines”, says Olivier Guitard.

“We strive for good ripeness to produce fine, palatable

wines with silky tannins and no astringency

even in the most powerful wines. There are real

opportunities in export markets which have yet to

be fully leveraged”.

CLAUDE GUITARD AND HIS SON OLIVIER

LUC LUYCKX AND HIS SON MAARTEN

CHÂTEAU FAMAEY:

EXPORTS SQUARELY IN ITS

SIGHTS

Set in the heart of the Cahors appellation, Château

Famaey unfurls its 40 hectares of vines across the

terraces of the Lot valley. The vineyard benefits

from outstanding clay and gravel soils and abundant

sunshine. Single-vineyard selections on the

different terraces promote site-expressiveness

and allow each wine to encapsulate its history.

Luc Luyckx and his business partner Marc Van

Antwerpen arrived in Quercy in 2000 from their

native Belgium and quickly fell in love with the

region. They have made a pledge to the environment

and were certified HVE level 3 (High Environmental

Value) in 2019. They lavish constant

care on their vines and respect for nature is a

pillar of their winemaking process. Yields are

carefully capped to produce rich, earth-friendly

and authentic grapes, with natural harvesting


37

THE GUITARD FAMILY

BORDEAUX

TRAVEL

LUC LUYCKX IN

HIS CELLARS

THE LUYCKX FAMILY


THE TEAM

AT CHÂTEAU LAMARTINE

methods for their top vineyards. Since 2007, Maarten Luyckx, who is just as passionate

as his father Luc, has been in charge of winemaking and is committed to

making the family estate progress a little more each day. “The success of Cahors

stems from the arrival of a new generation of winegrowers whose overriding ambition

is to produce quality wines”, he comments. “The Argentinians have done a

huge amount of marketing on our original grape variety and have established a

global name for it. Now we can leverage that publicity with our Malbec, which

is an asset for exports combined with the image of French craftsmanship”. The

estate produces classic wines using traditional winemaking techniques, which are

matured in concrete tanks and barrels, alongside more modern fruit-driven pours

matured in amphorae. Of these, 70% are exported to China, Vietnam, the United

States and Belgium, the property’s largest markets.

CHÂTEAU LAMARTINE:

FINESSE AND FRESHNESS

The impressive story of this flagship Cahors began in 1883. The original house

was built on the site of a hundred-year-old oak tree that was used as a meeting

place for a certain Martine, cleverly shortened to Château Lamartine in later years.

Its 37 hectares of vines are planted on the oldest terraces of the Lot valley where

they face South, allowing the Malbec grapes to fully ripen. On clay and limestone

soils, the Gayraud family takes great care growing their vines and maturing

their wines. In 2016, Lise Gayraud and her brother Benjamin, the fourth genera-


39

SOUTH-WEST

FUTURE

BENJAMIN AND LISE GAYRAUD OF CHÂTEAU LAMARTINE WITH THEIR PARENTS

ALAIN AND BRIGITTE

tion of winegrowers, took over from their parents

Alain and Brigitte. “Our brother and sister duo,

which we even turned into a wine label, is our

strength and our vineyard sites are our treasure”,

feels Benjamin Gayraud. “Our principles focus on

constantly improving our sustainable credentials

and producing ever finer wines. Our success can

also be ascribed to the quality of the wines, which

continues to grow, and Malbec, which has brought

us international recognition”. The varietal generates

real opportunities in export markets, which

account for 50% of sales, particularly markets

where Argentinean wines are also marketed, such

as the United States and Great Britain. Importers

who have been loyal for several years also factor

into the equation. “Cahors’ value for money is an

undeniable bonus, but it is more in relation to

other fine French wines than other South-West

appellations”, comments Lise Gayraud. “We

produce 200,000 bottles a year. Our four-strong

range of wines offers distinctive consistency, great

finesse and freshness”.

HISTORY IN THE MAKING

LISE AND BENJAMIN GAYRAUD AT THE HELM OF CHÂTEAU LAMARTINE SINCE 2016

Cahors produces 20 million bottles a year and has

undeniably leveraged the potential of Malbec. It is

the varietal’s historical capital and the appellation

is its second largest producer in the world after

Argentina. The area’s identity, which has strong

ties with particular vineyard sites and this black

grape variety, has for some years now conveyed

an image of quality. This is a testament to genuine

progress which has stoked growing demand from

consumers. “With Cahors, consumers are buying

into a characterful wine that is full of substance, it

is balanced, mouth-filling and refined. There are

several reasons for this success”, claims Armand de

Gérard, marketing and communications director

with the Cahors wine marketing board. “First of

all, winegrowers have focused heavily on quality in

their vineyards and wineries over the last twenty

years. Malbec is certainly beneficial in export

markets, where it is very popular, with around 35%

of volumes, in its three main markets that are the


SOUTH-WEST

FUTURE

7 TH -GENERATION WINEGROWER FABRICE DUROU OF CHÂTEAU DE GAUDOU AIMS TO CONVEY, EMOTION, CONVIVIALITY AND A SENSE OF SHARING IN HIS WINES

United Kingdom, the United States and Canada. Exports are also developing in other countries

albeit with lower volumes”. The great variety of vineyard sites – some of them limestone

others marl, clay-silica and siderolithic – along with the overall standard of quality and the

potential of the appellation to produce fine wines, make it undeniably a regional powerhouse.

Cahors wines also stand out from other fine red wines from South-West France or Argentina

for their freshness and liveliness. This lends the wines a very pleasant sensation of lightness

on the palate and also gives them remarkable ageability. Their styles now run the gamut,

which is certainly the sign of a top wine region and the culmination of work by winegrowers

to achieve quality. Since the 1950s, Malbec selection has been unique, vineyards have been

replanted to high densities with very good leaf exposure, and there has been considerable

investment in hygiene and quality winemaking techniques, with equipment including stainless

steel tanks and temperature control. “The age of our vines is now at its peak and we

have good knowledge of the best combination of grape variety and vineyard site”, concludes

Fabrice Durou of Château de Gaudou. Having virtually just one variety to work with – with

a requisite minimum of 70% Malbec in blends – could have been a disadvantage. But in

actual fact, it also makes Cahors winegrowers experts in growing the varietal. And with

global warming and other aspects factored into the equation, this unique grape variety still

has many surprises in store.


41

LIRAC, TAVEL &

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

DIAMONDS IN THE ROUGH

BY FLORIAN GLEMOT DIPWSET

PHOTOGRAPHS:


©JULIEN GOUNEL

Mention the Southern Rhone wine region and most people immediately

think Châteauneuf-du-Pape. As the region’s spearhead, blessed with ancient

craftsmanship and an international reputation, it could easily make us forget that

very nearby other fine southern wines are being produced, on similar soils. One is

Lirac, in all three colours, and the other is the rosé-only Tavel appellation. We go

on a voyage of discovery through these three appellations to look at their unique

characters.

BUSH PRUNING, WHICH IS TYPICAL OF THE SOUTHERN RHONE, PROTECTS THE GRAPES FROM THE SCORCHING SUMMER SUN


RHONE VALLEY

TRAVEL

PEBBLES STORE UP HEAT DURING THE DAY AND RADIATE IT BACK OVER NIGHT,

EXPEDITING FRUIT RIPENING

An undisputed standard-bearer worldwide, Châteauneuf-du-Pape has

a history of winegrowing dating back to the Roman Empire. The area

truly gained its prestige though at the turn of the 14 th century when the

Bordeaux Pope Clement V recognised the genuine quality of its vineyard

sites. His successor, Pope John XXII, bestowed upon it the status of ‘Wine

of Popes’. Served at the Pope’s table in the palace of Avignon, it enjoyed

recognition that went far beyond national borders. After the phylloxera

crisis that devastated vineyards in 1866, Baron Le Roy de Boiseaumarié,

owner of Château Fortia, along with local winegrowers, set in motion the

process that would culminate in the official creation of France’s first AOC

for the production of red and white wines in 1936, cementing the future

for high quality wines. Swept up in the same movement, the neighbouring

area of Tavel was also promoted to appellation status, but only for rosé

wines. Lirac would be singled out for distinction a few years later, in 1947,

but for all three colours of wine. What the three AOCs have in common is

their generous sunny Mediterranean climate and the strong influence of

the Mistral, the blustery, dry wind hailing from the North of the Rhone


43

RHONE VALLEY

TRAVEL

Valley. Despite these similarities, their characteristics

differ, lending each of them their own

specific identity. We take an in-depth look at each

appellation.

ÉMILIE BOISSON, THE SEVENTH-GENERATION

WINEGROWER AT DOMAINE DU PÈRE CABOCHE,

PRODUCES SIGNATURE FINE, ELEGANT WINES

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE:

MULTIFACETED SOUTHERN

CHARACTERS

JEAN-PIERRE BOISSON, THE FORMER MAYOR OF CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE AND CHAIRMAN

OF THE WINEGROWERS’ ORGANISATION, HAS WORKED HARD TOWARDS SECURING

INTERNATIONAL RECOGNITION FOR THE APPELLATION

Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s global reputation has been

built up over time through the methodical and

passionate work by countless families with roots

in the region that go back a long way. The Boisson

family is a case in point – its involvement in the

local wine scene dates back to the 18 th century.

Jean-Pierre Boisson took over Domaine du Père

Caboche in 1972. The estate’s name is a nod to its

other activity at the time as a farrier – ‘caboche’

in Provencal refers to the nail that fixes the

shoes to the horses’ hooves. The former mayor of

Châteauneuf-du-Pape and chairman of the winegrowers’

organisation, Boisson played a pivotal

role in securing recognition for Châteauneuf-du-

Pape wines in the international arena. One of the

ways he did so was by representing the appellation

at the Vinexpo trade fair from its inception in

the early 1980s, at a time when the exhibition was

largely dominated by Bordeaux. Attendance at the

event paved the way for conquering international

markets, particularly North America. Seventh-generation

winegrower Emilie Boisson has been

at the estate’s helm since 2016. Inspired by the

wines of Burgundy, she has successfully imbued

the estate’s wines with a fresh, delicate style. The

iconic Elisabeth Chambellan label, dedicated to

one of her ancestors, is a blend of the 13 grape

varieties initially authorised as per appellation

rules; the number has now risen to 18. The wine is

made from century-old vines in the La Crau area.

Its sandy soils with high iron content have encouraged

these old vines to put down deep roots and

lend the wines remarkable balance and fullness.

Grenache noir is king in Châteauneuf-du-Pape,


RHONE VALLEY

TRAVEL

accounting for three quarters of area under vine

and boasting an outstanding legacy of very old

vines. Olivier Hillaire, with the help of his two sons

Baptiste and Corentin, farms 17 hectares of vines

in the appellation spread over the three main type

of soils in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Les Petits

Pieds d’Armand label is made from vines planted

in 1899 by his grandfather in La Crau. Olivier aims

for powerful site-expressiveness in his wines

by harvesting his Grenache grapes after a very

long hang-time, with yields in the range of 12 to

15 hl/ha. “The fruit is the linchpin of the potential

quality of a wine. Intense colour and aromas can be

extracted from Grenache provided it is very ripe”.

The grapes soak for over a month on the skins, and

undergo rack-and-return and punching of the cap

repeatedly in a bid to extract intense, powerful

and extremely concentrated juice. The wines are

subsequently matured for a minimum of one year

in lightly toasted oak barrels to give them a silky

and generous sheen. The wine is very popular with

North American consumers, with two thirds of

volumes exported to the continent.

OLIVIER HILLAIRE AND HIS 2 SONS PRODUCE CONCENTRATED, EXPRESSIVE

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE WINES

MATTHIEU FAURIE-GREPON, ESTATE MANAGER AT

MAS SAINT LOUIS, CRAFTS BEAUTIFUL AGE-WORTHY

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE WINES, WITH A SPECIAL

MENTION FOR THE GRANDE RÉSERVE LABEL

At the southern tip of the appellation, on sandy

soil with much better drainage, is Mas Saint-Louis

with its thirty hectares. The unbroken vineyards

are clad with the area’s storied pebbles. Matthieu

Faurie-Grepon, the estate’s manager, determines

the harvest date only by tasting the grapes, so as

not to be influenced by analyses. He is mindful

to avoid over-ripe fruit: “We try and preserve the

freshness of our wines, so we only carry out a few

very light pump-overs to gently infuse the wine. We

only destem a small share of our grapes, to enhance

the structure and complexity of our wines, but also

their freshness. The sandy soils help us achieve

natural elegance”. The 2019 Grande Réserve label

stood out for us. Boasting great fruit concentration

and a structure that is still firm, the wine is already

complex and will need a few more years to fully

reveal its aromatic potential and soften its tannins

to ensure the best flavour experience.


45

PHILIPPE GRANGER AND HIS SON

AURÉLIEN ARE WINEGROWERS AT

DOMAINE LA MEREUILLE AND THEY

PUSH THE BOUNDARIES BY GROWING

CUVÉE D’AURÉ, A SINGLE VARIETAL

SYRAH CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

Although rooted in a strong tradition of blending with Grenache at its core,

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is not, strictly speaking, a blended appellation, unlike

neighbouring appellations. New avenues can therefore be explored with different

grape varieties. Philippe Granger began running Domaine La Mereuille in 2007. He

is adapting vineyard management techniques: “Vines need to adapt and become

stronger in order to rise to the agronomic challenges of tomorrow. Natural grass

cover, for example, helps limit soil erosion, retains dampness and life deep in the

soil to better equip the vines for sudden rises in temperature over the summer.

This is essential for combatting drought which is becoming more common due

to climate change”. His son Aurélien joined him and produced his first vintage in

2015. The label, La Cuvée D’Auré, has since been produced in the finest vintages

from Syrah vines on red clay and pebble soils. The single varietal Syrah is then

matured for 20 months in Burgundy casks. Its purpose is to push the envelope and

add a new facet to the multiple iterations of wines from the appellation.

A winery’s task is to provide its customers with a clear and coherent range of

wines, and the use of appellations in the Southern Rhone makes for much greater

clarity. Château Mongin, located in the town of Orange, produces a wide range

of wines under the Côtes-du-Rhône, Côtes-du-Rhône Villages and Châteauneufdu-Pape

appellations. Roxane Nibaudeau, its director, stresses how truly complementary

the appellations are: “The appellations naturally create a range of wines,

from the fruit-forward, Grenache-based pours for pleasure in Côtes-du-Rhône


THE TEAM AT CHÂTEAU MONGIN

PROVIDES A COMPREHENSIVE,

COHERENT RANGE OF WINES

SPANNING THE REGION’S

DIFFERENT APPELLATIONS

(10 days’ soaking), to greater structure, intensity and spice imparted primarily

by Syrah in Côtes-du-Rhône Villages (2 weeks’ maceration), finishing at the

top with Châteauneuf-du-Pape, an intense, complex, profound blend (32 days’

maceration)”. The estate, which has long-standing ties with the Orange viticulture

college, invested in a variety of fermenters and maturation vessels such

as concrete egg-shaped tanks, truncated conical oak tanks and demi-muids in

2020, in order to experiment with different types of maturation techniques and

to compare their characteristics with students at the agricultural college.

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, LIRAC, TAVEL:

COMPETITORS OR COMPLEMENTARY?

The soils of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Lirac are very similar, so how can the

unique characters of the wines be explained? Xavier Vignon, a winemaker and

wine merchant for many Southern Rhone appellations, answers this complex

question: “Terroir comprises three major elements: water, temperature and wind”.

Water acts as a vector for minerals (its availability depends on local rainfall and

the ambient humidity provided by the Rhone); temperature (aspect, nature and

colour of the soil) will influence ripeness; and lastly the wind has an impact on

vine transpiration – vines exposed to the strong, dry Mistral wind, will ‘suck out’

more water from the soil, and with it a greater amount of mineral salts. The two


47

XAVIER VIGNON, A CONSULTANT

WINEMAKER IN THE SOUTHERN

RHONE FOR 30 YEARS, PRODUCES

WINES OVER MANY SOUTHERN

RHONE GROWTHS, TAKING CARE

TO BRING OUT THE SOUL OF

THEIR ORIGINAL VINEYARD SITES

BORDEAUX

TRAVEL


RHONE VALLEY

TRAVEL

appellations have different geographical characteristics

and microclimates. This is mainly due

to the Cévennes mountains to the North of Lirac,

which trigger more rainfall, and to a ‘Rhone bankside

effect’ which means that Lirac gets more

dampness from the Rhone than Châteauneufdu-Pape

when the Mistral blows – Lirac is located

downwind of the Rhone. “The unique site-expressiveness

of the wines in the two appellations

is therefore intrinsically linked to the difference

in evapotranspiration of the vines. Châteauneuf

wines therefore express more savouriness (more

concentrated mineral salts), which is what lends

them their structure, their mineral backbone,

their length on the palate, and substantial ageability”.

Xavier Vignon excels in the art of maturing

and blending wines, which offer a faithful

rendition of their terroir. Careful tasting is a

very practical way of translating the explanation

provided above.

Extreme real estate pressure in Châteauneufdu-Pape

has prompted many winegrowers and

trading companies to gradually move into the

neighbouring appellations of Lirac and Tavel.

This is particularly true of Ogier which produces

wines in numerous Rhone appellations. Its technical

director Édouard Guerin reveals through his

wines the specific identity of each vineyard site

with his ‘crus’: “Our aim is not to produce a ‘lesser’

Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Lirac appellation, but

rather to bring out the essence of its identity by

focusing on the fawn-sand soils in the East of the

appellation. These are very deep sandy Miocene

soils, generating low water stress and fine, delicate

characters in the wines. They are also cooler

soils and by carefully choosing harvest dates that

balance freshness and ripeness with razor-sharp

precision, crisp wines with an elegant persona,

gifted with very fine-grain tannins and great

palatability, can be produced. The Lirac Le Petit

Prince label therefore has its own personality, and

sits easily within a coherent range, without being

overshadowed by its prestigious stable mate.

XAVIER VIGNON EXCELS IN THE ART OF BLENDING. HIS ARCANES RANGE OF

POP-UP LABELS EXPRESSES THE QUINTESSENTIAL QUALITIES OF

A VINEYARD SITE IN A GIVEN VINTAGE

ÉDOUARD GUERIN, TECHNICAL DIRECTOR OF MAISON OGIER,

PRODUCES ELEGANT WINES BY SEEKING OUT THE RIGHT

BALANCE BETWEEN FRESHNESS AND RIPENESS


49

VINCENT PEYRE, THE WINEGROWER

AT CHÂTEAU CORRENSON,

PRODUCES A RANGE OF

WINES SPANNING THE THREE

APPELLATIONS LIRAC, TAVEL AND

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

BORDEAUX

TRAVEL


THE MABY FAMILY HAS BEEN

PRODUCING WINE IN TAVEL FOR

4 GENERATIONS

Following the same rationale of complementarity, Château Correnson, which

already had a foothold in the Lirac and Tavel appellations, was able to acquire

a hectare in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Although production remains low, having a

Châteauneuf-du-Pape label in its portfolio allows it to grow exports. Château

Correnson winegrower Vincent Peyre uses a metaphor to describe his vision:

“Making Châteauneuf is like driving a Ferrari, it’s a kind of achievement for a

winegrower”. Châteauneuf-du-Pape may well be considered the King of reds

in the region, but Tavel is most certainly the Queen of rosés. It comprises three

main types of soil: the historic sandy soils to the South-East of the namesake

village; pebbles to the North; and flagstones to the West – these are white

calcareous stones that instil distinct mineral character in the wines. The Tavel

by Château Correnson, a blend of 5 grape varieties partly grown on flagstone

soils, offers great roundness and intense aromas of fresh red fruits underscored

by a mineral backbone, the signature trait of Tavel wines. It sits at the pinnacle

of the estate’s range of rosés, with the appetising but less complex Lirac rosés a

rung further down, and finally the very light, fresh Côtes-du-Rhône made in a

fashionable Provencal style.

Traditionally made from vines grown on sandy soil, which produces lightly

coloured wines, Tavel has always been fermented in the same way as shortsoaked

red wines, akin to Bordeaux ‘clairet’. It is therefore only natural that

when AOCs were established in 1936, Tavel was entitled to produce rosés, and

Châteauneuf-du-Pape reds and whites. Richard Maby, who descends from a line

of winegrowers based in Tavel for more than two centuries and is the former

chairman of the winegrowers’ organisation, explains what happened next: “At

the start of the 1990s and the emergence of lightly coloured rosés from Provence,

Tavel witnessed a clear drop in sales. This led to some serious soul-searching,


51

RHONE VALLEY

TRAVEL

but rather than turn their backs on tradition, Tavel winegrowers rolled up their

sleeves to improve quality. It was a challenging time, but we are now seeing

customers return, some of them tired of light-coloured rosés and looking for

characterful, food-friendly rosés”. Maby also produces magnificent Lirac reds,

particularly the Bel Canto label, a pure Grenache noir from old vines grown on

pebble-strewn soils. The wine is matured in demi-muids specially designed for

the wine, where the wood was seasoned for two years before the vessel was made.

The aim here is to oxygenate the wine very sensitively, while minimising oak

influence. It is the result of decades of passionate work by Richard Maby after

he took over the estate: “It is the purest and most faithful expression of our Lirac

vineyards”.

Château Trinquevedel is located on the historic sandy soils of Tavel and is also

an integral part of the appellation’s history. Guillaume and Céline Demoulin,

the fourth generation of winegrowers at the Château, produce two Tavel labels.

The storied sandy soil promotes great freshness and elegance in the wines. The

traditional label is macerated for 24 hours so as to best express the freshness of

the fruit. The 100,000 bottles of wine produced are almost entirely marketed in

export markets, particularly North America and Northern Europe. Guillaume

GUILLAUME AND CÉLINE DEMOULIN, THE FOURTH-GENERATION WINEGROWERS AT

CHÂTEAU TRINQUEVEDEL, PRODUCE TAVEL WINES ON THE HISTORIC SANDY SOILS


Demoulin, current chairman of the Tavel winegrowers’ organisation, explains

why the wines are successful: “These mature markets like red Rhône wines, but

if they want to drink rosé, they will definitely enjoy Tavel. We carry out many

joint sales and promotional activities with the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation.

The two appellations are truly complementary, and are often both enjoyed

by the same clientele”.

THREE INDIVIDUAL APPELLATIONS HEADING

IN THE SAME DIRECTION

Although they have historical connections and are based on similar soils, the

three appellations nevertheless display clearly unique characters. Despite their

differences, the trio works in unison, each providing the others with that little

extra something that the others do not have: the reputation of Châteauneuf-du-

Pape, the unique character of Tavel rosés, and the vitality of Lirac are all precious

attributes that they convey naturally to one another. Many producers established

in the three appellations point to the impressive harmony between the wines,

which create a clear, understandable range for consumers. With Châteauneufdu-Pape

in the vanguard, the three appellations move forward together, sharing

marketing success and tackling future climate challenges, showing the wine

world that there is strength in numbers, not division.


53

EMILIA-ROMAGNA AND UMBRIA

SEEN THROUGH THE LENS

OF SUSTAINABILITY

BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO

PHOTOGRAPHS:


Only Emilia-Romagna and Umbria were missing from our journey through

Italy’s wine regions. We visit them and place particular emphasis on their

sustainability efforts.

ARNALDO CAPRAI VINEYARDS ARE SPREAD OVER 36 DIFFERENT BLOCKS WITH 6 DIFFERENT MESOCLIMATES AND SOILS


ITALY

ORGANIC

TENUTA PEDERZANA GROWS A PARTICULAR CLONE OF LAMBRUSCO GRASPAROSSA, NAMELY LAMBRUSCO

GRASPAROSSA DI CASTELVETRO, WHICH LENDS ITS NAME TO THE LOCAL DOC

A

s its name suggests, Emilia-Romagna is a region with two souls, characterised

by plains covering the upper half and the Apennine Mountains in the lower half.

The climate is mostly continental, with cold winters and hot summers, and becomes

almost Mediterranean as you approach the coast. On the plains, the seasons are

defined by high humidity (which becomes fog in winter), while the Adriatic side, with

its favourable sea breezes, enjoys milder temperatures on average. Winegrowing

develops on a long strip that starts from the Piacentini hills, bordering the Oltrepò

Pavese area in Lombardy, and reaches the border with the Marche region, following

the famous Via Emilia.

In terms of the grape varieties grown in the region, Emilia-Romagna is also divided

in two. In Emilia, in the Piacenza area, the most widespread grape varieties are black

grapes such as Barbera and Croatina (Gutturnio DOC) and white grapes such as the

aromatic Malvasia di Candia and Moscato bianco, as well as the indigenous Ortrugo.

International varieties such as Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio, Riesling

Italico and Müller-Thurgau are also widespread. The Parma area is more white wine

driven. The provinces of Reggio-Emilia and Modena are home to Lambrusco: Salamino,

Maestri, Marani, Montericco, Sorbara and Grasparossa (Ancellotta is also

very present here). In the Bologna area is Pignoletto, yielding the local DOCG Colli

Bolognesi Classico Pignoletto. In the Ferrara area, is the black grape Fortana (Bosco

Eliceo DOC). In Romagna, the most important grape variety is, of course, Sangiovese,

which is flanked by Trebbiano Romagnolo, Pagadebit and the noble Albana,

which produces Albana di Romagna DOCG.

As an illustration of the variety of Emilia-Romagna wines and the region’s focus on

sustainability, here is a selection of wineries.


55

ITALY

ORGANIC

BRANCHINI 1858

160 YEARS OF HISTORY

IN 1858, THE BRANCHINI FAMILY OF ‘GALAVOLTA’ CHOSE TO MOVE FROM TUSCANY TO

EMILIA-ROMAGNA, MARKING THE START OF THIS HISTORIC WINERY

BRANCHINI’S VINEYARD MANAGEMENT TECHNIQUES FOCUS ON MAINTAINING BALANCE

IN THE VINES, WHILST AVOIDING TOO MUCH FORCED INTERVENTION

The story of this winery began in 1858 when the

Branchini family moved from Siena to Toscanella di

Dozza (Bologna) in the industrious Emilia Romagna

region. Multiple generations of the family have

continued to follow a shared vision and today the

company is run by the fourth generation, Marco,

the family winemaker, and Angelo, an agricultural

expert. All stages of grape production and winemaking

are carried out on the estate. Vineyard

management focuses on maintaining balance in

the vines, whilst avoiding too much forced intervention.

In the winery, the use of modern technologies

preserves the integrity of the fruit, aiming

to highlight the identity of the vines in the region.

Branchini uses integrated pest management,

applying solutions with the lowest environmental

impact every year. The grapes grown are Albana,

Sangiovese and Pignoletto and used to make

sparkling, still and reserve wines, as well as passito.

Albana is the queen of varieties, yielding four different

wines: a classic method, a dry white and two

passito wines.

The balance sought in the vineyard is the philosophy

behind production of the wines. Each vineyard is

fermented separately using different techniques

depending on the grapes and the desired outcome,

with the aim of unleashing the natural potential of

each variety. The key markets in addition to Italy are

Germany and the United States.

AZIENDA CELLI - OVER 50 YEARS

OF HISTORY OF TWO FAMILIES

DEVOTED TO QUALITY

Founded in 1963, Azienda Celli has been owned by

the Sirri and Casadei families, nicknamed Bron &

Rusèval, since 1965. In 1985 the facilities underwent

a renovation which sparked the adoption of a new

philosophy geared towards the constant search for

quality and typicality.

In 1995, the company acquired and planted new

vineyards and it now boasts 35 hectares of vineyards


MAURO SIRRI RUNS AZIENDA

CELLI WITH EMANUELE CASADEI,

FOLLOWING IN THE FOOTSTEPS

OF THEIR TWO FAMILIES,

NICKNAMED BRON AND RUSÈVAL,

WHO FOUNDED THE COMPANY

located around the village of Bertinoro. Production focuses on the most representative varietals

in Bertinoro: Sangiovese, Albana, Pagadebit, Trebbiano and a small amount of Chardonnay

and Cabernet Sauvignon. Today, the company is run by Mauro Sirri, who looks after

vineyard management and sales, and Emanuele Casadei, who is tasked with winemaking.

Together, the owners represent a rare and excellent example of generational continuity in

Bertinoro wine production. Their experience, with more than 55 vintages under their belt, is

reflected in the wines. ‘La Massa’ shows more body and structure, ‘Cellaimo’ is more savoury,

‘Maestrina’ displays great elegance and balance and ‘Campi di Fratta’ delivers more fresh,

mineral wines. An unwavering love for the land led to the conversion of all the vineyards to

organic in 2018, while in 2020 the company was awarded organic certification for the grapes

and the winemaking processes. The company exports its wines to Asia (Japan, China, the

Philippines), North America (Canada and USA) and throughout Europe.

SETTECANI - ALMOST 100 YEARS AS A MODEL

OF ITALIAN COOPERATION

Cantina Settecani was founded in 1923 in the hamlet of Settecani, on the border of the

Modena towns of Castelvetro, Castelnuovo Rangone and Spilamberto. Here, almost 100

years ago, 48 farmers decided to join forces to create what is now considered to be one of the

most significant co-operatives in Emilia-Romagna and Italy. Today there are 180 members

and they farm 400 hectares of vineyards producing approximately 1 million bottles each year.

The vineyards belonging to Cantina Settecani’s members, where Lambrusco (mainly Grasparossa)

reigns supreme, are mainly located in the hilly area of Castelvetro, the town that


57

THE NAME ‘SETTECANI’ DATES

BACK TO THE 12TH CENTURY AND

IS NAMED AFTER A LEGEND WHERE

SEVEN WORKERS WERE TURNED

INTO DOGS AS PUNISHMENT FOR

SWEARING IN FRONT OF

A RELIGIOUS PROCESSION

CANTINA SETTECANI’S SOILS ARE

MAINLY CLAY AND SAND WHICH

IS RICH IN LIMESTONE AND

IDEAL FOR ENHANCING THE MAIN

GRAPE VARIETIES, INCLUDING

LAMBRUSCO GRASPAROSSA AND

PIGNOLETTO

lends its name to the DOC. The sandy clay, limestone-rich soils, together with permeable and

lean soils, create perfect sites for the grape varieties to thrive and winery styles to blossom.

Cantina Settecani is committed to achieving sustainability and its approach involves every

aspect of its business. In order to do this, it has decided to join the VIVA project, created

with the aim of measuring and improving the sustainability performance of the vine-wine

supply chain, and the Minerva project, which intends to implement sustainability practices

and protocols in the integrated wine supply chain of the Lambrusco and Pignoletto hillside

district. In addition to this, an improvement programme has been implemented, paving

the way for the reduction of environmental impacts and the improvement of the outcome

of VIVA sustainability indicators. The project starts from the countryside and involves the

entire supply chain, up to the winery itself. Measures to improve energy performance have

also been implemented, lighter packaging with a lower impact on the environment has been

chosen, and occupational safety for the staff has become a focus. In 2019 Cantina Settecani

extended VIVA certification to the entire company. Lambrusco (Grasparossa, Sorbara and

Salamino) and Pignoletto wines, as well as a small amount of Trebbiano dell’Emilia and

Sangiovese are sold in Italy to the hotel and restaurant sector, as well as through direct sales

both physically and online. Approximately 30% of production is exported to Japan, the USA,

Norway, the Czech Republic, Germany, France, China and Taiwan.


ITALY

ORGANIC

TENUTA PEDERZANA AND ITS

UNIQUE PLANT HERITAGE

FRANCESCO GIBELLINI IS THE THIRD GENERATION OF WINEGROWERS AND

IS NOW THE OWNER OF TENUTA PEDERZANA

Tenuta Pederzana is located in the Emilian hills of

the medieval village of Castelvetro di Modena. The

winery was founded after the war by winegrower

Franco Simonini and specialises in the production

of Lambrusco. Tenuta Pederzana, in particular,

grows and produces a unique clone of Lambrusco

Grasparossa, which produces Lambrusco Grasparossa

di Castelvetro. The vineyards enjoy optimal

exposure and, at the same time, are cooled by

currents that promote considerable temperature

ranges, enhancing the aromatic profile and

phenolic maturation of Lambursco Grasparossa.

Today, Tenuta Pederzana is led by Francesco

Ghibellini - the third generation of winegrowers

- and can be described as a modern winery that

respects traditions. Full respect is also paid to the

land with great attention in the vineyard and the

use of modern winemaking methods that encapsulate

the truest favours of the grapes in the bottle,

including an experiment with wine using no added

sulphites. In addition to Italy, the main market for

Tenuta Pederzana wines is the USA, where they are

very successful.

IN THE MEVANTE VINEYARDS, THE GRAPE HARVEST USUALLY BEGINS IN THE

LAST WEEK OF SEPTEMBER WHICH IS UNUSUAL FOR THE AREA

UMBRIA - ‘GREEN’ BY NATURE

This small region nestled in the centre of the Italian

peninsula is called the ‘green heart of Italy’ for its

lush landscapes of alternating vineyards, olive

groves, arable land and forests. The region is a rare

example of the preservation of biodiversity and

protection of the land that sees wineries at the forefront

of promoting this natural wealth. The area has

pioneered the development of organic farming since

the 1980s. Today, most wineries operate organically

or use integrated pest management, implementing

low-impact vineyard management techniques.

The region is 71% hilly with a balance of mountains.

The area enjoys relatively mild winters and hot, dry

summers, with wide temperature ranges, well-distributed

rainfall and rare late frosts, and is therefore

suited to viticulture. The white grapes grown


59

ITALY

ORGANIC

AT MEVANTE THE MATURATION CELLARS ARE

UNDERGROUND, ALLOWING NATURAL TEMPERATURE AND

HUMIDITY CONTROL AND FAVOURING SLOW, GRADUAL

AGEING WITH VERY LOW ENERGY CONSUMPTION

in the region include Malvasia Bianca, Trebbiano

Toscano, Verdello, Canaiolo Bianco, Procanico and

Trebbiano Spoletino (rediscovered a few years ago.)

The red grapes grown include Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo,

Canaiolo Nero, Montepulciano, Barbera, Gamay del

Trasimeno (Grenache) and, in particular, Sagrantino.

There are also some international varieties

such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc,

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir

and Cabernet Franc. The main DOC wines in the

region are Assisi, Colli Altotiberini, Colli Amerini,

Colli del Trasimeno, Colli Martani, Colli Perugini,

Lago di Corbara, Montefalco, Orvieto, Rosso Orvietano

and Torgiano. The most important designations

are Torgiano Rosso Riserva Docg and Montefalco

Sagrantino Docg, the latter a true reference

point for the entire region.

We have therefore selected four sustainable companies

in the Sagrantino area that go the extra mile.

MEVANTE - SUSTAINABILITY

AND STYLISTIC PRECISION

THE MEVANTE WINE CELLAR, BUILT TO A MODERN AND SUSTAINABLE CONCEPT, IS ON

TWO FLOORS AND USES THIS CONFIGURATION TO CONDUCT RACKING

The Mevante winery, established in the 1990s, is

located in the hills of Bevagna, in the heart of the

Sagrantino di Montefalco production area. The

estate, owned by siblings Paolo and Antonella Presciutti,

forms an unbroken stretch of 10 east-facing

hectares. The winery’s name is taken from a combination

of the ancient name of Bevagna (Mevania)

and from the ‘Levante’ or easterly exposure. The

vineyards are managed sustainably and organically

with the use of green manure to nourish the vines

without the use of synthetic chemical fertilisers.

Pruning is done strictly by hand, while selective

work in the vineyard reduces the need for winemaking

interventions. The wines also have very low

levels of sulphur dioxide.

The cellar is spread over two floors and takes advantage

of this configuration to carry out racking, handling

the wine more gently and preserving the aromas

better, as well as using less energy. The wine maturation

cellars are underground and consequently the

temperature and humidity are naturally controlled,

which favours slow and natural ageing and a lower


THE AZIENDA AGRICOLA MONTIONI WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1978 IN UMBRIA AND IS NOW RUN BY

A TEAM OF YOUNG PEOPLE WHO LOOK TO THE FUTURE WHILE RESPECTING TRADITION

THE MONTIONI FARM’S VINEYARDS ARE MANAGED ORGANICALLY

WITH MOST TASKS PERFORMED BY HAND

environmental impact due, again, to lower energy consumption. To date, annual production

stands at around 60,000 bottles, divided between Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG, Montefalco

Rosso DOC, Grechetto DOC and an IGT from 100% Trebbiano Spoletino grapes. Mevante’s

key markets are the USA, northern Europe, Canada and ultimately the Italian market with a

particular focus on Umbria.

MONTIONI - TRADITION AND INNOVATION IN MONTEFALCO

The Montioni family has been producing wine and oil in the Montefalco area of Umbria

since 1978. The region has a long history of wine and olive production, and at Montioni

the team makes use of these traditions combined with modern innovations to improve

the quality of its products. Today, the team is young and dynamic, with an average age of

only 39. The company grows Sagrantino, Sangiovese, Merlot and Grechetto grapes, from

which it produces pure Grechetto, Montefalco Rosso and 3 types of Sagrantino, one of which

is a passito wine, the second is a ‘classic’ iteration made from grapes in all the Sagrantino

vineyards, and the other, selected from the company’s finest vineyard, is dedicated

to the children of Paolo Montioni (the owner of the company) and his wife Sara. The wine

is called Ma.Gia after the initials of their children Matteo and Giacomo. The vineyards are

managed organically, with a great deal of manual work in the vineyard. Zoning and geological

analyses have been completed across the entire site to ensure that any agricultural

and agronomic operations align with the needs of the specific area. The company exports


61

ITALY

ORGANIC

95% of its products to markets such as the United

States, Canada, Puerto Rico, Vietnam, Luxembourg,

Belgium, Germany, Poland and Ireland.

LA VENERANDA

A FEMALE-RUN WINERY

LA VENERANDA IS LOCATED ADJACENT TO THE MEDIEVAL TOWN OF MONFEFALCO

THE ORIGINS OF THE FOUNDING FAMILY OF LA VENERANDA ARE ROOTED IN MONTEFALCO

WHERE THEY HAVE LIVED AND WORKED THE LAND SINCE 1568

La Veneranda is an exclusively female-run winery

helmed by Eleonora Alessandrelli and Anna

Rita Scarca, who continue the work started by

their families aimed at enhancing the wines of

Montefalco. They farm 20 hectares of vineyards

with passion, dedication and respect. Grechetto

and Sagrantino grapes are grown on a 2-hectare

block in the Spoleto area, and are used to produce

IGT wines. Sagrantino, Sangiovese, Merlot and

Grechetto are mainly grown in the Montefalco

vineyards and used to produce Montefalco DOC

Grechetto, Montefalco DOC Rosso, Montefalco

Sagrantino DOCG and Montefalco Sagrantino

DOCG Passito wines. Awareness of nature’s finite

resources and a desire to give future generations

an environment that has not been ruined

by inordinate consumption, have led the family

to focus on a sustainable form of agriculture that

respects the environment and uses a combination

of preventive measures to protect the grapes and

strict control measures. These include maintaining

the̮ integrity of the soil, pruning and managing leaf

cover to achieve the right balance between plant

development and yield, better light penetration

and effective ventilation of the grapes. Woodland

around the vineyards is also protected as an

important ‘green lung’ for the protection of biodiversity.

The company also makes use of renewable

energy. In the cellar, mineral and vegetable clarifiers

are preferred to animal products, no plastic

is used for wine tastings and all the machines

are powered by renewable energy. La Veneranda

wines are mainly sold in Italy, both to the hotel and

restaurant sectors and to private buyers, while a

small number of bottles are exported to countries

including the United States, Puerto Rico, Finland,

Denmark, Holland, Luxembourg, China, Taiwan,

the Philippines and Vietnam.


ITALY

ORGANIC

ARNALDO CAPRAI

REDISCOVERING SAGRANTINO

MARCO CAPRAI DECIDED IN 1988 TO FOCUS ENTIRELY ON ARNALDO CAPRAI

SOCIETÀ AGRICOLA S.R.L., OF WHICH HE IS NOW MANAGING DIRECTOR

It was 1971 when Arnaldo Caprai, already an Umbrian

entrepreneur in the textile sector, decided to invest

in wine production in Montefalco. He paved the

way for the true rediscovery of Sagrantino, with

the current CEO Marco Caprai later ensuring this

winery became the absolute leader. A profound

knowledge of viticulture and love for the region are

the common thread running through the entire

production process. The wines stand out for their

finesse, quality and class and show real consistency

over time. Caprai was among the first wineries in

Italy to adopt a regional sustainability protocol (New

Green Revolution) and is now certified as an Equalitas

Sustainable Organisation. Since 2020, a Sustainability

Report has been published on the company

website, documenting all the initiatives adopted over

the years for its environmental, social and economic

management. In addition to Sagrantino, the

company grows Sangiovese and Grechetto – along

with small blocks of Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay

and Sauvignon – as the basis for DOC Montefalco

Rosso and Colli Martani Grechetto respectively. Its

top wine is Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG and most

of its 36 vineyards, located in six different meso-climates,

are dedicated to its production.

Michel Rolland has been a consultant winemaker

since 2015. Since 1989, the company has been

working with the University of Milan in the field of

agronomic and oenological research focusing on

experimentation with the Sagrantino vine. Since

2008, this collaboration has led to the development

of 4.0 sustainable farming, based on the use of technologies

to reduce the environmental impact and

effects of increasingly variable weather conditions,

and thus improve productivity. 70% of Caprai’s wines

are sold in Italy, mainly in the hotel and restaurant

sector. The remaining 30% is mainly exported to the

United States and the European Union, but small

quantities are also exported to China, Switzerland,

Canada, Thailand and South Korea.

Sustainability is the clear driving force aimed at

enhancing the land and wines of Emilia-Romagna

and Umbria.

SAGRANTINO GRAPES ARE HISTORICALLY SUITED TO DRYING FOR THE

PRODUCTION OF EXCELLENT SWEET RED PASSITO WINES


63

THE CZECH REPUBLIC

GREAT WINES FROM

A SMALL COUNTRY

BY DANIEL KŘÍŽ

PHOTOGRAPHS:

COURTESY OF THE WINERY

FUND AND ARCHIVES OF THE

RESPECTIVE WINERIES

After three decades of a free-market economy, the Czech Republic is about to reach

another milestone in its wine history. While in recent times, the local wine industry has

always been a more or less disparate, yet in many ways co-operative, mass of competing

businesses, over the past few months the idea of a common approach for the future has

slowly begun to materialise. With the general support of winegrowers, the idea of a

unified winery concept is being developed, with emphasis among others on production

efficiency, the most suitable varieties, exports and the environment, in addition to

the established focus on quality. After years of adolescence, a fully-fledged and selfconfident

wine region with very promising potential is breaking onto the scene.

THE CZECH REPUBLIC, A LAND OF PROMISE, EVEN FOR SPARKLING WINES


CZECH REPUBLIC

DISCOVERY

CZECH WINE PRODUCTION HAS ONLY BEEN DEVELOPING OVER THE LAST 30 YEARS, BUT IT HAS ALWAYS BUILT ON TRADITION

Wine has been a part of Czech culture for millennia, but the most interesting development,

apart from its extraordinary boon in the Middle Ages, has been occurring over

the last 30 years or so. With the fall of the Iron Curtain, the whole sector escaped the despair

of the state-controlled economy and experienced exceptional development in a short space

of time. While the neglected vineyards could be brought back up to speed relatively easily,

the cellar management aspect required a complete restart. Winemakers had to buy new

technologies for controlled fermentation very quickly and had to learn how to use them. And

it is this technological leap, along with the safeguarded inter-generational know-how, and

unbroken continuity of the relationship with the landscape, soil and vineyards, that started

to turn Czech wine production into an industry where tradition meets quality.

THE WARMEST PLACE IN THE NORTH

The Czech Republic is split into two quite distinct wine regions: Bohemia, stretching along

the 50th parallel with pockets of vineyards that together account for only about 4% of the

country’s total area under vine, and Moravia, an area located in the south-eastern part of

the country. With the 49th parallel as its backbone – very roughly akin to the Champagne

region - the majority of local viticulture spans some 18,000 hectares producing some

600,000 hectolitres per annum.

The climate in the Czech Republic, as a Central European country, is unsurprisingly continental

in nature, except for the occasional inland ‘raids’ of humid Atlantic air. Most summer

months bring higher temperatures than normally seen at similar latitudes, a trend that has

become more pronounced with climate change in recent years. This has a positive effect


65

CZECH REPUBLIC

DISCOVERY

WARM DAYS AND COLD NIGHTS DURING GRAPE RIPENING ARE THE SPICE OF CZECH WINES

on shortening the vegetation stages of the vine

and paves the way for relatively reliable cultivation

of late-ripening varieties. In the Czech Republic,

the grape ripening period is characterised by

alternating warm and sunny days with significant

night-time drops in temperature. This is substantially

reflected in the aromas of white wines in

particular, which also retain a pleasant acidity and

bouquet. Their expression is further supported by

the composition of the soil, which historically was

formed on marine and freshwater sediments and

loess. Together with the rugged topography of the

landscape and the influence of the rivers, the soil

and climatic conditions give rise to unique wines

with great diversity.

HARMONY OF FRESHNESS

AND AROMA

WINE PRODUCING IS A PRESTIGIOUS AND RESPECTED INDUSTRY IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC

AND IS PERCEIVED AS A NATIONAL TREASURE

With fewer than 20,000 hectares of vineyards, the

Czech Republic is one of the smaller wine-producing

countries and as such will never have the

ambition of supplying large volumes of wine at

low prices. Rather, it produces fairly small, special

batches with an unmistakable Central European

character. It is the compactness, the harmonious

combination of full-bodied flavour with fresh

acidity of Czech, usually varietal, dry white wines

that is their most typical, positive characteristic,

and the reason for exploring them. Recently,

however, high-quality red wines have also been

gaining ground; thanks to modern processing technologies,

they are full-bodied and distinctive, yet

also soft and velvety, with a pleasant fruity aroma.

For the future, rosé wines are the trend, attractive

not only for their colour but also for their youthful

character, freshness and exceptional floral and

fruity aromas.

The relatively northern location of this producer

country also results in a varietal range dominated

by white varieties (approximately 72%) within a

very broad palette, which are complemented by red

varieties (about 28%), around a third of them used

to produce rosé, both light and dark-coloured. The

most common white varieties are Grüner Veltliner,


LÉGENDES

VINSELEKT MICHLOVSKÝ:

GIVE THE WINE FREEDOM AND

LEAVE AS MUCH ROOM FOR

TERROIR EXPRESSION AS POSSIBLE

Müller Thurgau, Riesling, Welschriesling and Pinot Gris. These five varieties, however, only

represent just over 50% of white vineyard acreage, which reveals just how diverse the varietal

range here is. The most widely grown red varieties are Blaufränkisch, St. Laurent, Zweigeltrebe,

Pinot Noir and Blauer Portugieser, which total almost 80% of vineyard area planted

to reds, leaving other red varieties in a distinct minority. Growing grapes as part of an integrated

production system is the standard approach locally. However, there are also more

and more wineries managing vineyards to even stricter ecological standards, i.e. producing

organic and biodynamic wines.

CZECH WINES PUT THROUGH THEIR PACES BY GILBERT & GAILLARD

VINSELEKT MICHLOVSKÝ

To give the wine freedom, take a hands-off approach wherever possible and leave as much

room as possible for terroir in connection with the variety, is the philosophy of the founder

and owner of this winery. It produces in the range of one million litres annually and owns

125 hectares of vineyards and in less than thirty years has grown to become one of the largest

wine companies in the country. The founder and driving force behind the winery, doc. Ing.

Miloš Michlovský, DrSc., is one of the top personalities in the Czech wine industry; in addition

to growing vines and making wine, he has also been moving the whole wine industry

forward throughout his career. He innovates, breeds vines, gives lectures and writes technical

books, to name a few. He has vineyards in many locations with a diverse range of soils,

sub-soils, weather and sources of water as contributing factors. This, together with a very


67

CZECH REPUBLIC

DISCOVERY

VINSELEKT MICHLOVSKÝ: FOR A WIDE RANGE OF WINES, VARIETIES AND REGIONS,

PERFECT SHOWROOMS ARE KEY

diverse varietal range and different vine spacings,

gives rise to a plethora of combinations for characteristics

in the resultant wines. The search for the

best qualities and desire to preserve and promote

them in wine are both endless and irresistible at

the same time. Most of the wines are dry white

wines from Welschriesling, Pálava, Pinot Gris and

Sauvignon matured in oak barrels, but there are

also barrel-matured dry red wines from Pinot Noir,

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Blaufränkisch and St.

Laurent; traditional method sparkling wines with

a secondary fermentation in the bottle (ageing on

lees for 3–10 years) and Charmat method sparkling

wines. Non-alcoholic wines complement the range.

The winery was the first to produce these in the

country and is a constant innovator in this regard.

Some of the alcohol obtained during dealcoholisation

is used by the winery to make fortified wines.

The vineyards and cellar management combine to

form a sophisticated ecosystem since, in addition

to emphasis on terroir, the focal point for Vinselekt

Michlovský is a gentle and friendly relationship with

the natural world. Around a tenth of the winery’s

production is organic, but environmentally-friendly

practices are applied throughout the production

process in terms of handling the grapes sensitively

or using as little sulphur dioxide as possible.

Respect for nature and its hands-off approach are

one of the reasons why the winery is intensively

involved in breeding resistant varieties for environmentally-driven

viticulture.

THAYA: THE WINERY ALSO TARGETS WINE TOURISM AND GASTRONOMY

THAYA

If you had to sum up the Thaya Winery in one

word, it would probably be “dynamism”. The taste

and tremendous energy for making extraordinary

wines can literally be felt in every step you take in

the winery. The initial drive behind the new winery

– or rather transformation of what was initially a

smaller business – was ambitious plans to build a

winery and state-of-the-art facilities, a hotel and

restaurant with emphasis on wine tourism and

wine & food pairing. As the former small winery

did not allow this, two years ago a brand new buil-


CZECH REPUBLIC

DISCOVERY

ding broke ground on the old winery platform with

an annual production of around 200,000 bottles.

The initial facilities quickly grew from 23 hectares

to the current 105 hectares. The local vineyard sites

have been known since the ancient Romans for

their unique sun-facing location and the favourable

temperature-controlling influence of the

meandering River Thaya, which together with the

cold winds from the northwest gives the local wines

an unmistakable spicy taste and fullness. Although

the local grapes ripen fairly slowly, they retain their

aromatic substances and achieve high quality. On

granite bedrock and loess with an admixture of

calcareous clays, the winery is mainly dedicated to

Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay

and Pinot Blanc; for the red varieties, Pinot Noir,

St. Laurent, Blaufränkisch and Zweigeltrebe are

predominant, all primarily as dry still wines. For

the future, the winery is also heading towards the

‘royal discipline’ – its own sparkling wines. It uses

both stainless steel tanks and oak barrels of various

sizes, ages, coopers and toasts. The main credit

for the quality of the wine goes to the thirty-oneyear-old

Jakub Smrčka, the current recipient of the

Czech Winemaker of the Year award. He develops

the wine and is not afraid to experiment. In the

winery, he is in charge of the wine from picking

the very first grapes to the bottle being cellared. His

unwavering commitment is that each vintage must

be a little better than the previous one, especially

for the higher end offerings. Through its determination,

the winery also has an avowed ambition

to produce the best wine in the Czech Republic.

Currently, Thaya Winery sells wine mainly to the

domestic market, but this year it has also established

markets abroad, in countries such as Belgium,

the Netherlands, Luxembourg, Denmark, Norway

and the USA.

THAYA: WINEMAKING ENTHUSIAST JAKUB SMRČKA IS

ALWAYS IN A GOOD MOOD

MAŇÁK WINERY: DELICATE WORK WITH WOOD IS THE WINERY’S SIGNATURE

MAŇÁK WINERY

Maňák Winery was founded – like most wineries in

the Czech Republic – in the early 1990s. The owners

– a married couple – continued the tradition of

their ancestors and began to produce wine with a


69

CZECH REPUBLIC

DISCOVERY

philosophy based on combining modern practices with traditional methods. Today,

the winery manages 25 hectares in three vineyards. It applies integrated production

principles, using beneficial insects to combat pests and planting the vineyards with

a special herbal mixture to promote biodiversity and soil quality. Maňák Winery

produces approximately a quarter of a million bottles of appellation-only wines (70%

white) and focuses on a great range of grape varieties (35 in all), which is very typical

of wines in the Czech Republic. The winery’s hallmark varietal though is Sauvignon

Blanc, which customers can find both in wood-matured and stainless steel iterations.

It manages some 150 French barriques with an individual capacity of 225 litres for

producing white wines, red wines (especially Pinot Noir) and even straw wines. But

it certainly does not limit its production to wooden barrels. As the winery established

itself in the market, it also grew in terms of facilities and technology. Today, it boasts

the latest technology both in the vineyards and in the winery. It also has a cuttingedge

laboratory to analyse the wine and grapes, which is already an indispensable

part of 21st-century winemaking. This year, an impressive showroom was also added,

where the winery presents both individual wines and popular events focused on

pairing wines with food. Like most wineries in the Czech Republic, the domestic

market is key and Maňák Winery distributes its wines primarily to restaurants and

wine shops. However, direct-to-consumer sales are also buoyant. Its gradual growth

has opened up export markets in neighbouring Poland and Slovakia. Although it is

MAŇÁK WINERY: TWO GENERATIONS OF WINEMAKERS PROMISING TO CONTINUE THE WORK


CZECH REPUBLIC

DISCOVERY

still a relatively modest family business, its success

on the domestic, and increasingly the international

scene, shows that its development is far from

reaching its limits. In recent history, the firm has

achieved three world champion titles in competitions

held under the auspices of O.I.V.

B\V WINERY: CELLAR MASTER JIRKA TOMAN TOOK OVER THIS

BEAUTIFUL CRAFT FROM HIS GRANDFATHER

B\V WINERY

Even after ten years, B\V Winery is still a relatively

young business. It was born out of sheer joy and

passion for wine and developed into a full-fledged

winery over the years. There is still quite a long

way to go, especially in the vineyards, where the

very diverse varietal range is still largely defined

by the state in which the vines were bought. The

most valuable vineyards and key varieties have

been kept and developed, whereas those that

do not fit perfectly into the desired concept are

gradually renewed. At present, the firm manages

63 hectares of bearing vineyards and 12 hectares

of new plantings. Among the 250,000 bottles

produced annually, Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer

and Pinot Noir are the predominant

varieties, mainly used for producing dry,

still appellation wines. The winery’s signature

wines are blended – starting with the standard

product line – on fine lees and are always bottled

and released in the autumn of the following year.

Riesling is the flagship varietal here and is left to

mature in the bottle for two years longer. In fact,

bottle ageing for the higher-end wines matured

in French oak barrels is another characteristic of

the winery. While drawing on the best traditions

and winemaking experience in the Czech Republic,

it is also looking purposefully to the future and

further development in the form of investments

in vineyards, technology and winery facilities,

including an emphasis on wine tourism and stateof-the-art

sales service. The wines are made in a

stylishly redesigned historic building of the former

chateau granary from the early 18th century when

the conversion of the local chateau into the Baroque

style reached its peak, but the winery itself is not

just about history. B\V Winery was founded prima-

B\V WINERY: THE VINEYARDS – OR, MORE SPECIFICALLY, THEIR LOCATIONS –

REPRESENTED THE WINERY’S MOST VALUABLE ASSET AT THE OUTSET


71

CZECH REPUBLIC

DISCOVERY

rily for pleasure and therefore it is not compelled to make unwanted compromises and

give into the pressure of business results. Thus, despite the relatively large production

volume by national standards, the local wines will not be found in supermarket chains,

but exclusively in places where they are generally well taken care of and where the sellers

know how to present them properly. Although still a young business, B\V Winery’s wines

have been successful in international competitions for a long time.

CZECH WINEMAKING IN THE NEAR FUTURE:

IDEALS AND IDEAS

As 2022 transitions into 2023, the Czech Republic Union of Winegrowers, the largest

industry body representing the majority of growers, is in the process of developing a

long-term blueprint that will help winegrowers and winemakers face future challenges

in a stronger, more coordinated and profitable way for at least the next 10 years.

Winemaking, but especially viticulture, is a very long haul. A major part of vineyards in the

Czech Republic is still designed for historical farming practices and their varietal range, to a

large extent, continues to cater to consumer tastes of the past. Newly planted vineyards are

also about efficiency – the sites need to be adapted to new technologies. Vine spacing, for

instance, was historically designed to be extremely wide and suited to machines used in the

last millennium. Changing densities will of course have a significant impact on yields and

the production of high quality wines will increase despite the reduction in crops. Vineyard

acreage itself is unlikely to grow apace due to planting quotas.

WARM DAYS AND COLD NIGHTS DURING GRAPE RIPENING ARE THE SPICE OF CZECH WINES


CZECH REPUBLIC

DISCOVERY

MAŇÁK WINERY: MAGICAL VINEYARDS FULL OF PROMISE

The Czech Republic is only about one-third self-sufficient in wine. This of course has a

significant impact on prices, especially for cheaper wines – a small national winery can

never fully compete with large-scale, cheap imports. The raw material here is simply too

rare for the resultant wine to sell for two or three euros. Winemakers will certainly focus

even more on the production of higher quality wines, which, despite higher production

costs, will be more profitable. The raw material will be more abundant given more efficient

new plantings, and therefore an increase in export interest can also be expected.

CZECH WINES HAVE REACHED MATURITY

AND ARE ON THEIR WAY INTO THE WORLD

Export ambitions are somewhat hamstrung by the very wide range of varieties. However,

this too will undergo considerable changes through new plantings. Winemakers heading

to Western Europe are not the only ones to have started switching their varieties to the

most characteristic and best-suited ones in each region because only high quality, individuality

and uniqueness can bring success faced with extremely strong international

competition. All of this goes hand in hand with a strong emphasis on an environmental

approach to farming and production, including an even higher proportion of resistant

varieties.

Wines from the Czech Republic will be increasingly present in European restaurants

and wine shops and at least elementary knowledge of them will be a prerequisite in

any advanced wine company. The Czech Republic has undoubtedly reached a very solid

level in terms of winegrowing, but its development is far from over. As emerging plans

and visions for the next decades bring new promises, it will be important to follow their

implementation. Watch this space…


73

HOW THE BREEDE RIVER VALLEY

TELLS ITS STORY THROUGH WINE

TOURISM

BY SAMARIE SMITH-MELETIOU

DIPWSET

PHOTOGRAPHS:


South Africa’s burgeoning wine tourism sector sprouts from Cape wineries

willing to embrace change, and constantly exploring innovative ways to adapt.

Its picturesque landscape spurs visitors to discover its wine routes, and the Breede

River Valley is close enough to Cape Town for city dwellers to immerse themselves

in its countryside hospitality for a day.

WITH SANDSTONE AS THE MOTHER SOIL AT DTK, GREAT DIURNAL TEMPERATURE RANGES CONTRIBUTE TO WINES WITH PHENOMENAL

FRUIT PURITY AND FRESHNESS


SOUTH AFRICA

VINEYARDS

BON COURAGE IS HOME TO ELEGANT CAP CLASSIQUE WINES THAT OWE THEIR CHARACTER TO LIME-RICH SOILS

What moulded the South African landscape as an excellent wine producing

country is its geographical wealth of soil, mountains and valleys, creating

micro and meso climates within its predominantly Mediterranean climate. The

wine industry extends from the Olifants River in the North to the blue-green spectacle

of mountains framing the Cape South Coast and Coastal regions. Moving

inland, the red rocky peaks of the Klein Karoo reveal vast plains bedecked in

vineyards. Although the Breede River Valley is poised in the centre, it has shed the

middle-child notion, excelling in its diversity of styles and price points.

After three centuries of refining its viticulture, no vine is planted in vain. South

African winegrowing regions are confidently celebrating terroir. They have learned

to embrace the gift of abundant sunshine, with numerous awards debunking the

belief that vast, warmer appellations produce homogenous wines. Many, if not all,

especially the Breede River Valley, have booted these assumptions, rising to the

podium with elegant, world-class wines.

THE EXPECTED, AND THE UNEXPECTED

Mountains abound in the Breede River Valley, with various scenic routes leading

here. Home to various co-ops and bulk-producing wine facilities, wineries located

in its production areas, namely Breedekloof, Robertson and Worcester, have also

successfully positioned themselves as leading producers of award-winning Chardonnay,

Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadel. Fortifying their strengths and the confidence

in what they offer makes them a sought-after supplier of grapes to other


75

DTK WAS FOUNDED IN 1962 AS A

CO-OPERATIVE FOR BULK WINE

PRODUCTION AND CELEBRATED

ITS 60 TH BIRTHDAY THIS YEAR

wine producing areas in the Cape. Additionally, the Breedekloof Makers Initiative,

founded eight years ago by the younger winemakers, has also seen great success

in promoting Chenin Blanc as a local value proposition.

From Cape Town international airport, the route cuts through the Huguenot

tunnel, with motorists passing the belly of the towering Du Toitskloof mountains

through this impressive tunnel built by Italian prisoners of war between 1942 and

1945. The tunnel was completed in 1948, providing a safer journey between Paarl

and Worcester than facing the treacherous Du Toitskloof Pass. Needless to say,

majestic, often misty mountain views await travellers on the other side, its winter

snowcaps contesting the argument of a «warm» region, followed by waterfalls

meandering down its slopes in spring. Not far from here, Du Toitskloof Wines

(TDK) awaits.

Ed Beukes, export and marketing manager, explains how they have shifted the

brand focus to DTK, of which Du Toitskloof is now one of its brands, along with

Lands End and Quest. “Our strategy is to offer consumers something expected, like

Chenin Blanc, and something completely unexpected like Nebbiolo.”

As an ode to the Italian prisoners of war, this Italian cultivar has found its home

in this valley, scoring a whopping 90 points from Gilbert & Gaillard’s expert wine

tasting panel. The Du Toitskloof Nebbiolo 2020 is one of six varietal Nebbiolos

found in South Africa, deeper in colour as one would expect from an Italian

Nebbiolo with softer, lighter tannins and a seductive medley of red fruit and florals.

“We love that it challenges people’s perception of the valley,” Beukes continues.

Thirty years after its inception in 1962, DTK entered the packaged wine sector,

following three decades of building a reputation for consistent quality. They main-


ED BEUKES, EXPORT

AND MARKETING MANAGER

AT DTK


77

SOUTH AFRICA

VINEYARDS

tained this momentum and purchased Land’s End in 2016 (fruit from the Cape

South Coast), making them the largest seller of Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc

in the country.

“From producing 600,000 litres of Du Toitskloof Chenin Blanc to a mere

2,500 litres of the Quest Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2020 (scoring 95 points at the

IWSC) affirms our versatility. These old vines were planted in 1985. We invite

visitors to learn more about our philosophy through an immersive cellar door

experience at our newly refurbished tasting room”.

THE HEART OF THE SOUTH AFRICAN WINE INDUSTRY

Entering the valley from Worcester en route to Robertson, Overhex Wines has

anchored itself as a heavy-weight producer in a short time since the owner and

executive chairman, Gerhard van der Wath, founded Overhex in 2006. With brands

punching at different price points in local and international markets, they have

recently pioneered a new certified category for South Africa: Orange Sparkling

Wine, naming the range, Get Lost. For their premium wine range, Survivor, they

source grapes from Swartland, Elgin and Stellenbosch. According to Overhex cellar

master Ben Snyman, the valley’s geographical assets are phenomenal in creating

a canvas of styles.

GERHARD VAN DER WATH, EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN

AND FOUNDER OF OVERHEX WINES

BEN SNYMAN, CELLAR MASTER

AT OVERHEX WINES


SOUTH AFRICA

VINEYARDS

“The mountains and valleys create meso and

microclimates that will contest any assumption

of a homogenous valley. The Breede River Valley

produces 690,000 tons from 32,400 hectares, so

one can truly regard the valley as the heart of the

South African wine industry. The character of the

soils changes over small distances, and one only

needs to look at the diverse Chenin Blanc styles

to know that the wineries are playing to their

strengths.”

Overhex’s Balance range is a commercial phenomenon,

focusing on thiol-driven white wines. As

for reds, they experiment with oak alternatives to

build texture into the wines.

“Our natural sweet range is a stepping stone for

new wine drinkers while our classic range offers

wine with berry, rather than sugar richness,

coaxing consumers into trying different wines.”

NUY CATERS TO FAMILIES AS ONE OF MANY DRAWING CARDS IN THE VALLEY

INTERACTIVE CELLAR DOOR EXPERIENCES ARE PART AND PARCEL

OF CAPE WINE ROUTES, LIKE AT NUY ON THE HILL

OFF THE TRADITIONAL WINE

TRACK

Further up the valley, it is impossible not to notice

Nuy on the Hill.

“It was a strategic decision to move the tasting

room to this highly visible location where approximately

8,500 cars pass by in peak season,” shares

Christo Pienaar, the cellar master at Nuy Winery

and chair of the South African National Wine

Show Association.

Situated at the foot of the Langeberg Mountain

with annual rainfall of less than 200 mm, the

Keerom dam is the saving grace, feeding 800

hectares of farmland. It is the largest of its sort in

South Africa, boosted by melting snow in spring

to ensure a year-round supply of water.

“We have to be mindful with water management.

To mitigate climate change, we have also undertaken

new planting areas in gorges higher up the

mountain. Besides contributing to slow ripening,

the mountains influence the wind and rain

patterns. Every afternoon, the South Easter wind

is guaranteed to blow from around 4:30 pm until

about 8:30 pm, presenting a cooling effect that

keeps the vineyards healthy.”


79

SOUTH AFRICA

VINEYARDS

CHARDONNAY THRIVES ON THE LIME-RICH SOILS FOUND IN THE ROBERTSON VALLEY

Nuy has also benefited from the surge in wine

tourism, and since building the restaurant on the

hill seven years ago, traffic has doubled.

“Everyone in the valley benefits from this renewed

interest in wineries off the traditional wine track,

and it created a platform to review our price

points. We offer visitors various price points and

aim to persuade them with packaging and different

wine styles to try something new.”

With only 3% of the cellar’s total annual production

of 10,000 tons bottled under the Nuy label,

Pienaar agrees that the Breede River Valley is a

bonafide supplier of sought-after grapes to other

wine regions.

“The Nuy Valley as a ward basks in the same Chardonnay

limelight as Robertson, with a rich bank

of limestone originating at Nuy, travelling all the

way to Robertson.”

They have joined the rosé revolution in time for the

South African summer, and with Muscadel, which

is now also exported in cans, it is a guaranteed hit.

“It is important to be recognised for something

unique. Most of the time, visitors leave with

Chenin and Muscadel, and it pleases me to say

that craft gin has paved the way for consumers to

explore our pot still brandy.”

BAG IN BOX TO BEAUTIFUL

BUBBLY

ROBERTSON WINERY WILL SOON LAUNCH A NEW UNDERGROUND WINE EXPERIENCE FOR

WINE TOURISTS

The Robertson wine district triumphs Chardonnay,

from big producers to boutique wineries sharing

the success.

Rianco van Rooyen, cellar master at Robertson

Winery, confirms that they supply many wine

farms beyond the Breede River Valley borders.

With an 81-year narrative, they were the first

to certify bag in box in the 90s, and Van Rooyen

comfortably reiterated the volumes produced of

each cultivar, equating to 47,000 tons, all wine of

origin Robertson.

“We manage 100 lines with the motto “More to

Share” with different styles and price points. We

want to be everyone’s wine.”

Lingering longer in Robertson will undoubtedly


BON COURAGE

CELLAR MASTER,

JACQUES BRUWER,

AND WINEMAKER

PHILIP VILJOEN

include a visit to Bon Courage Wine Estate, much smaller in size with an annual crush of 6,000

tons. Here, they have honed in on the intrinsic value of individual vineyard pockets producing

exceptional quality. The winemaker, Philip Viljoen, believes there are more discoveries to be

made and that the past decade has brought about the renewed intention of illustrating terroir.

“I follow a house style for each cultivar, and fortuitously, judging by the sales, it appeals to

the consumer! I am very grateful for that, but one can never become complacent, especially

regarding Cap Classique.”

The Jacques Bruére Brut Reserve 2013 is a testament to that, scoring 91 points from Gilbert &

Gaillard.

“It endorses our objective to pursue the absolute best quality, and we subsequently acquired

more land to realise our full potential. We want to create wines that exude individuality within

a diverse profile that satisfies different market segments. We have the privilege of ageing our

Cap Classique on the lees for a significant period before releasing it”. You will have to search

far and wide to find an elegant vintage Cap Classique aged 48 – 60 months and available at this

price (R230), offering a beautiful richness, fine mousse and lively acidity. They offer a nougat

and Cap Classique tasting as a fun way to explore the range.

FAMILY TRADITIONS

Travelling through Robertson down a tree-lined road brings you to the door of Weltevrede

Jonker Family Wine Estate, situated in the Bonnievale ward of Robertson. Here, a profound

wine tourism experience awaits as an ode to French Champagne that subsequently led to

South Africa creating its own category of sparkling wine made in the traditional method:


81

SOUTH AFRICA

VINEYARDS

VISITORS TO WELTEVREDE CAN IMMERSE

THEMSELVES IN THE HISTORY OF

WINEMAKING BEFORE LUNCH AT THE

RESTAURANT CALLED KAPOKBOS

A CURATED EXPERIENCED AWAITS AT WELTEVREDE

Cap Classique. Curated educational experiences

introduce their wines in a global context of wine

history, Champagne and the emergence of South

Africa’s own Cap Classique category. Visitors can

also indulge in a hands-on experience, followed

by lunch.

Proprietor-winemaker Philip Jonker has been

committed to making Cap Classique since the

beginning of his winemaking career. Still, it was

time for refreshment after 110 years, he says.

“We were ready to materialise the vision we’ve

created in our mind’s eye. Weltevrede is arguably

the longest-existing family wine brand in South

Africa, with a captivating story that needed to be

told more interactively. As custodians, we must

share our fascination with our terroir in a way that

conveys the wonder, the attention to detail, and

the humility,” Jonker explains.

The arid limestone geology of this Bonnievale-Robertson

terroir laid the foundation for their pursuit

of excellence, creating Chardonnay with a distinct

lime-like vibrance and minerally aftertaste.

Their serious pursuit for quality Chardonnay was

acknowledged by Gilbert & Gaillard, scoring The

Poet’s Prayer 2021 a well-deserved 92 points, and

both the Place of Rocks 2021 and The Ring Brut

scored 91 points.

“The broken shale slopes with calcrete deposits on

Weltevrede bear complex and elegant Chardonnays.

We have an Old World style, creating Cap

Classique with a pure, crystalline clarity. Stylistically,

we regard the Calcrete Chardonnay in the

same context as Chablis, our Place of Rocks Chardonnay

in the league of a good Meursault, while

with the Poet’s Prayer, we aspire to the intrigue like

a Grand Cru from the Côte de Beaune.”

Weltevrede launched its first Philip Jonker Brut

Cap Classique 26 vintages ago when Jonker

bewedded his bride, Lindelize. It was also the

first wine he made at Weltevrede and serves as a

constant reminder and celebration of their bond

of love.

The Poet’s Prayer is made from a small selection

of old vines on lime-rich soils that offers

that ethereal balance they are after, with intensity

and complexity wrapped up in a luminous


SOUTH AFRICA

VINEYARDS

mineral gloss. The grapes were hand-picked,

whole-bunch pressed and fermented in 228-litre

Burgundian barrels before the wine was matured

on its lees. The fruit for Place of Rocks hails from

the slope where the vines are anchored in shale.

It fermented in a combination of 1st, 2nd and 3rd

fill barrels and spent eight months on the lees

with regular batonage. The result is a wine with

mouth-watering acidity and a long, limy finish.

MARTHINUS RADEMEYER, PRODUCTION MANAGER AT BONNIEVALE WINERY

A VALLEY OF PASSIONATE

FARMERS

Bonnievale Winery is also situated in this last ward

of the Breede River Valley. Marthinus Rademeyer

started here in 2009 as an assistant winemaker

and today fulfils the role of production manager

overseeing four premises within an 8 km territory,

including Wandsbeck (Wine of Origin Robertson)

“While 90% of the wine produced here is destined

for bulk wine, we also experiment with smaller

pockets. We broke through the bulk stigma when

our Bonnievale The River Collection 2022 was

awarded an FNB Top 10 accolade earlier this

year. Our wines offer that mouth-filling tropical

fruit pungency while it is hemmed with a slight

herbaceous tone that adds freshness.”

From the 30,000 tons of grapes supplied to

them by “passionate farmers” from an enormous

playing field of 100 km by 50 km, 50% of the wines

produced are exported. Their offering attracted

the attention of French and American importers,

with the likes of New Zealand and Senegal now

also pursuing their wines.

Rademeyer affirms: “We really have a plethora of

North and South-facing slopes to choose from,

vineyards planted in different directions and cultivars

that are blissfully happy on the best-suited

soils. It is all about balance and finding that sweet

spot. And as soon as the white stinkwood trees

outside the tasting room are embellished with

lush canopies in summer, visitors gather here for

pizza and delicious wines. Ultimately, it is the

pleasure of drinking that the consumer is after.”

THE BONNIEVALE WINERY WINEMAKING TEAM


83

HEADING OFF FOR PORTUGAL

AND ITS NATIVE RED GRAPE

VARIETIES

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE

PHOTOGRAPHS:


With 250 native grape varieties, Portugal is enough to make other producer

countries go green with envy. Comparing them with international standards is

like comparing apples and oranges and just-burgeoning awareness means that

they remain largely under the public’s radar. Heading off to explore Portugal’s

vine heritage is like stepping into the shoes of a treasure hunter, away from the

well-trodden vinous paths.

BAGA IS PRIMARILY GROWN IN THE BAIRRADA REGION IN PORTUGAL


PORTUGAL

GRAPES

HARVESTING IN JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS’ VINEYARDS IS MOSTLY DONE BY HAND

I

n addition to its myriad native grape varieties, Portugal also boasts a winegrowing

culture that dates back to Antiquity along with extremely varied

vineyard sites. In fact, for many years, older generations valued the soils where the

grapes came from more than the grape variety itself. The varieties resided together

naturally in the vineyards and sometimes winegrowers did not even know which

grapes they farmed. The soils had greater significance and of course, Portugal has

a real tradition of blending.

As the New World wine countries have emerged, market trends have evolved and

a taste for single-varietal wines began to gain traction, piquing the curiosity of

Portuguese producers. They started taking a closer look at their grape varieties,

particularly the native iterations, and fermenting them separately. Fortunately,

the art of blending in the country has been preserved – most Portuguese wines

are blends – but thanks, inter alia, to new-found knowledge of the plants, it has

reached levels of perfection worthy of the finest wines.


85

PORTUGAL

GRAPES

VICTOR DAMIÃO, CHAIRMAN OF THE ADEGA DE CANTANHEDE

CO-OPERATIVE

Native grape varieties now play their part in the

great variety of Portuguese wine styles. As they

cannot all be presented, we have selected four of

the most renowned varieties for red wines – Baga,

Touriga Franca, Aragonez, and the most famous

of them all, Touriga Nacional. And who better to

speak about them than the wineries who grow and

vint them?

BAGA, A DIAMOND IN THE

ROUGH

THE WINERY HAS BAGA VINES OVER 90 YEARS OLD

The typical variety of the Barraida region where, in

the past, it accounted for nearly 90% of the varietal

range, Baga is not an easy grape variety to work

with. Despite this, some producers have successfully

leveraged its aromatic potential through their

efforts and perfectionism. It is now selected to

produce quality wines.

To find out a little more about the variety, we met

up with a prominent co-operative in the Bairrada

appellation in the Centre-West of the country,

Adega de Cantanhede. It also happens to be the

first bodega to win a gold medal for a Portuguese

wine entirely made from a native grape variety in

an international competition in 1997. No prizes for

guessing which grape variety!

The co-operative, which boasts Baga vines over 90

years old, has for several years made it its mission

to preserve this heritage and promote these vines

with their limited yields which thrive on the

region’s clay-limestone soils. “Limestone promotes

good soil drainage and retains heat, expediting the

ripening process and controlling acidity and therefore

the astringency of the tannins”, explains the

winery’s winemaker Osvaldo Amado. “Also, clay

retains water during the hottest summer days,

so that we don’t have to use irrigation. It also

helps produce more balanced wines with more

pronounced density”.

The region’s gentle rolling countryside and the

location of the vineyards, some twenty kilometres

from the coast, have also driven quality winegrowing.

“The cool temperatures and frequent

morning fog from the Atlantic reach the most


OSVALDO AMADO, HEAD

WINEMAKER AT ADEGA DE

CANTANHEDE


87

THE TEAM AT ADEGA DE CANTANHEDE:

OSVALDO AMADO, VICTOR DAMIÃO,

MARIA MIGUEL MANÃO, ALBINO

COSTA AND IVO SILVA

inland parts of the area, promoting balanced ripening even during the hottest summer

days”. Rainfall towards the end of the season, however, can have harmful consequences

for the grape variety which, with its particularly thin skins, is very prone to grey mould or

Botrytis Cinerea. Fortunately, there are environmentally-friendly solutions and they are

increasingly used. They include grass cover – where cover crops are grown between the

vine rows – meticulous, intermittent leaf removal and early harvesting. Baga also needs

a little attention in the winery, admits the winemaker. The berries, which are naturally

rich in tannins, are entirely destemmed at the winery to ensure softness in the wines.

This is followed by alcoholic fermentation at 28°C and gentle maceration, where the

rack-and-return process is the favoured option. Maturation is nearly always conducted

in French oak casks which polishes Baga’s firm tannins. The red wines produced from the

variety can be ranked among the Portuguese wines with the longest cellaring capacity,

adds Amado. “They mature elegantly and fully retain their character for several decades”.

Another of the variety’s features is most certainly its versatility. Baga is used by the

winemakers at Adega de Cantanhede to make deeply coloured red wines, with vibrant

aromas of wild berries and black plum, boasting crisp acidity. Incorporating the nobility

of French oak to perfection, they reveal notes of coffee, dried grass, tobacco and

smoke. But that’s not all! Baga also comes in a variety of wine styles, from rosés, ‘blancs

de noirs’ and other sparkling wines to fortified offerings. These sell equally well in the

domestic market and abroad, where sales are booming. This is one treasure that should

be explored posthaste!


JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS

WITH HIS SON JOÃO MARIA, ALSO

A WINEMAKER, AND FILIPA, HIS

DAUGHTER WHO WORKS

IN MARKETING

JOÃO PORTUGAL

RAMOS’ TEAM

TOURIGA FRANCA,

EASY TO GROW, BUT COMPLEX ON THE PALATE

Previously known as Touriga Francesa – despite the fact that there is no connection with

France – this grape variety is one of the most widely grown in Portugal. It is an easy

variety to work with and thrives on schist soils with low fertility, explains winemaker

João Maria Portugal Ramos. He is the son of João Portugal Ramos, one of Portugal’s most

internationally renowned winemakers, who has made a significant contribution to the

reputation of Portuguese wines over the past twenty years. João Portugal Ramos and his

team now produce wines in four regions across the country but they grow Touriga Franca

in the Douro and Alentejo regions. João Maria Portugal Ramos admits, though, that

the best results are obtained in the Douro Superior, where the weather is hot and dry.

This native variety is resistant to water stress and uses its leaves to protect its clusters

from direct sunlight. With its long growing season and moderate yields, it can be

harvested by hand or machine. But on this particular estate, the Touriga Franca grapes

are generally picked by hand. Touriga Franca produces very structured, complex wines

with lots of volume on the palate. These features are essential for producing high quality

Port, explains João Maria Portugal Ramos. The variety is therefore used to produce the

storied Portuguese fortified wine, but not just for that. Blended with other grape varieties,

it forms the basis for several other estate reds. “It is a good age-worthy variety but

must be blended with a variety with higher acidity to produce the best ageing potential”.


89

PORTUGAL

GRAPES

JOSÉ JOAQUIM MORAIS ROCHA, THE ESTATE’S FOUNDER

Here, the wines are matured in tanks and wood.

Those made from Touriga Franca are very deeply

coloured and offer up delicate, intense aromas of

wild flowers, violet, red fruits and dried spices,

yielding powerful but elegant pours.

ARAGONEZ, THE WELL-SUITED

NEXT-DOOR NEIGHBOUR

MORAIS ROCHA COMBINES ARTISANAL SKILLS WITH

CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY

Aragonez is none other than the star variety of

Rioja and Ribera del Duero, Tempranillo, under its

Portuguese name. It is also known as Tinta Roriz in

the Douro Valley. In Alentejo, located near Lisbon,

it is one of the ten most widely grown grape varieties.

“Aragonez is a grape variety that adjusts well

to different soil types and climates, but to produce

outstanding quality, sandy and clay-limestone

soils in hot, dry climates need to be favoured.

This leads to smaller, more concentrated berries”,

explains Nelson Rolo, the head winemaker at

bodega Morais Rocha, which has 18 hectares of

vines in Vidigueira, approximately 200 km from

the capital in the southern part of the country.

For the Alentejo winery, this red variety plays a

pivotal role because it is used to make sparkling

and rosé wines, and of course Reserva reds. For

the reds, the fruit is picked by machine at night in

order to preserve freshness, whereas for the other

styles, the grapes are picked by hand. Aragonez is

an early-ripening variety and therefore one of the

first to be harvested, explains Rolo. “Emphasis is

placed on acidity and the right pH level”

As soon as the fruit arrives in the winery, it

undergoes cold (7°C) pre-fermentation soaking to

promote aromatic intensity in the must. Aragonez

is used in blends with other grape varieties that

complement each other. “I particularly like the

combination of Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet

and Cabernet”, admits the winemaker. Wines from

Aragonez are very elegant and dense with substantial

structure on the palate. They reveal notes

of blackberries, plums and black fruits along with

a faint spicy, cinnamon-dominant touch. They are

very popular and boast great ageability, selling

both domestically and internationally.


ANA MORAIS ROCHA,

THE FOUNDER’S DAUGHTER,

NOW MANAGES THE ESTATE


91

THE ESTATE HAS BELONGED TO THE SANTOS LIMA FAMILY FOR FIVE GENERATIONS

JOSÉ LUÍS SANTOS LIMA NOW RUNS THE NAMESAKE BODEGA

TOURIGA NACIONAL,

A WELL-DESERVED HIGH REPUTATION

This is indeed, Portugal’s best known grape variety, used to make its storied Ports, but

also the country’s finest red wines. Although it is well-established in the Douro Valley,

it is also grown in Alentejo and in the Dão region in central Portugal, where before the

phylloxera outbreak it covered 90% of vineyard area.

Even though it produces low yields – which is often a guarantee of quality – Touriga

Nacional is a late-ripening variety, making it less prone to spring frosts. It is also particularly

resistant to the heat and fungal diseases, particularly powdery mildew, due to

its thick skins. These positive viticultural attributes combine with its substantial versatility.

At the family-run estate Casa Santos Lima, which produces wines in five regions

across Portugal, it is used for producing and blending red wines but also rosés and

sparkling wines. Touriga Nacional boasts good ageability and delivers darkly coloured

and very tannic, powerful and structured wines. Displaying great aromatic complexity,

they offer varied aromas of black fruits, leather, graphite, violet and cacao.

Touriga Nacional-based wines are intense and fruity and appeal to audiences far and

wide, and not just in Portugal. Most of Casa Santos Lima’s wines are in fact sold internationally,

explains manager José Luis Santos Lima. The variety itself has also been

exported and is now grown in Australia and California, for instance, where it seems to

be increasingly gaining traction. Climate change has strengthened the appeal of this

aromatic and robust variety in recent years. In the vineyards of Bordeaux, for instance,

it is being grown on an experimental basis. Watch this space…


GARCÍA CARRIÓN,

BLAZING A PATH OF ITS OWN

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE

PHOTOGRAPHS:

COURTESY OF THE COMPANY

How did a bodega, founded in 1890 in Jumilla – perhaps Spain’s most under-the-radar

wine region – to produce wines for France, then in the throes of phylloxera, become

Europe’s leading winery by sales and the fourth largest in the world in just 130 years?

Its director, José García Carrión, recounts the incredible story of this exceptional company.

JOSÉ GARCÍA CARRIÓN, DIRECTOR OF GARCÍA CARRIÓN

LÉGENDES


93

SPAIN

FOCUS

José García Carrión has helmed the family-run

company since 1968 and played a part in its

exponential growth worldwide. Its wines, now

produced in twelve Spanish appellations, are

marketed across the globe.

JAUME SERRA, THE BODEGA IN VILANOVA I LA GELTRÚ IN CATALONIA, WHERE THE

FAMOUS CAVA IS MADE

How do you explain the success of your bodega?

García Carrión has always blazed the trail with

its revolutionary projects. Through hard work

and diligence, this has enabled us to become the

leading winery in Europe and to win over consumers.

“Constant revolution” is how we define

our business model. From the outset, we have

sought to innovate and implement new initiatives,

but with one very clear rule – we put the

consumer at the core of our business strategy.

We relentlessly strive to meet their demands and

satisfy their needs with our products, which are

renowned for their quality.

FIVE SUCCESSIVE GENERATIONS HAVE BEEN AT THE HELM OF THE FAMILY-RUN COMPANY

GARCÍA CARRIÓN

Could you share two or three landmark events

that have shaped the company’s history and

contributed to its success?

Over the course of our history, we have risen

to quite a few challenges, from our humble beginnings

through to conquering over 150 countries...

There is no doubt that one of our greatest

moments was the launch of Don Simón, Spain’s

first wine in Tetra pak format at the start of

the 1980s. At that time, the most widely used

container for young wine was the one-litre

returnable bottle. To meet national demand,

we needed several production centres in Spain.

Tetra pak offers a practical, economical and

lightweight non-returnable container and we

were therefore able to meet this demand whilst

also providing quality wine. Subsequently, we

diversified our business by grouping different

products – juices, fruit nectars, sangria, etc.

– under the single brand, Don Simón. In 1997,

the acquisition of Jaume Serra – currently the

only fine Cava in Spanish hands – marked our

first step towards expanding across Spain. Now

we have a presence in 12 designations of origin

where we make prestigious wines that display

site-expressiveness.


SINCE ITS INCEPTION,

THE COMPANY HAS FOCUSED

ON SUSTAINABILITY

The company actually markets several brands, some of them spanning several

appellations…

Yes, this is a pioneering approach in the wine industry. With Pata Negra, we have

brought together several designations of origin under one brand, which is now

present in the DOs Jumilla, Ribera del Duero, Rioja, La Mancha, Rueda, Toro,

Cava and Valdepeñas. This has facilitated García Carrión’s international development

because we have been able to export wines from different DOs under a

single name. This has made it easier for us to secure greater awareness outside

Spain.

Behind this variety, are there common traits that represent the hallmark of

García Carrión?

Absolutely. All García Carrión wines have one common denominator – quality.

Our family comes from generations of farmers and we have a strong commitment

to the land and its products. This is why we constantly make it our mission to

ensure that our business has as little impact as possible on the environment, and

even a positive impact. That is our pledge.

This year, extreme heat and very little rain during the summer and autumn

defined the season. How did the harvest go? Was it early? What will the 2022

vintage be like?

This year we started harvesting at the end of August with the early varieties.

Despite the heat, the quality of the grapes is very good. We are very happy with

the results and we have very high expectations for the quality of the wine.


95

SPAIN

FOCUS

The company has chosen to go down the sustainable route. When did you make this

pledge and how does it translate to your present-day wine business?

We depend directly on the land to make our products, so we have to take care

of it, and we have done so since our inception. We market organic wines, such

as our Pata Negra Apasionado Orgánico or our Jaume Serra Cava Brut Orgánico.

We also work with zero-kilometre products and have long-term agreements with

more than 40,000 farmers, which enables us to guarantee the finest raw materials.

García Carrión is also rolling out plans for all of its production centres in

Spain to use the energy they produce. Each facility will have its own photovoltaic

equipment covering 30% of its energy needs. Another example is our Jaume

Serra Cavas, which are bottled in lighter bottles – we have reduced their weight to

800 grams (12% less) – and our wine bottles are up to 5% lighter than others. Also,

particularly for white wines, we harvest by night. This ensures that the grapes are

cooler when they enter the vats, preventing oxidation and loss of aroma, but also

removing the energy costs incurred from lowering the temperature in the vats, as

these varieties require low-temperature fermentation.

Your wines are sold in about a hundred countries around the world. Which are your

biggest importers and what are your newest markets?

Our overseas activity is a fundamental part of our business strategy. García Carrión

is present in over 150 countries. Europe is our local market and the real international

market is the two Americas, Asia and Africa, where people enjoy the taste of our

GARCÍA CARRIÓN COMBINES ARTISANAL METHODS WITH THE LATEST TECHNOLOGICAL INNOVATIONS


SPAIN

FOCUS

THE ACQUISITION OF THE JAUME SERRA WINERY MARKED A TURNING POINT IN THE COMPANY’S HISTORY

wines. Our expertise and international experience have ensured that the specific

features of each Spanish region reach out to a global audience. Generally speaking,

the USA, the UK and Africa generate the highest growth for us.

You have helped strengthen the presence of Spanish wine in international markets.

But do you feel there is there still some way to go before it is fully recognised?

Absolutely. The Spanish wine industry, whose prestige has been constantly growing,

has undergone a step-change in recent years. However, we need to continue our

efforts to ensure that the quality and expertise of our products continue to make

a lasting impression. We have a challenge to meet and that is to win the hearts of

young people who have not yet entered the world of wine. At García Carrión, we are

developing our product portfolio to meet the demands and needs of this segment.

Do you have any current projects that you would like to share with our readers?

We have recently developed wine tourism at our Viña Arnáiz winery in Ribera del

Duero. Our guests can visit the bodega and discover how our wines are made, step

by step, in one of Spain’s most prestigious designations of origin. They also have the

opportunity to enjoy a wine tasting, while discovering the use of technology and

the benefits of 4.0 viticulture. Viña Arnáiz is a historic winery that stands out for

its innovative approach. Respect for the natural winemaking process is at its core,

but it also incorporates cutting-edge technology to produce wines of the highest

quality. Its vineyards are grown using the Viticulture 4.0 method, which uses digital

resources to monitor the development and ripening of the grapes so that the best

decisions can be made during the winemaking process. This is a glimpse of tomorrow’s

viticulture that should not be missed...


97

MÉDOC CRUS ARTISANS

IN THE LIMELIGHT

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS

PHOTOGRAPHS:


Navigating amongst the shadows cast on them by the Grands Crus Classés and

the Crus Bourgeois, it could seem that Médoc Crus Artisans suffer from a lack

awareness. But these often long-standing, boutique estates spread across all

the Médoc appellations in the world’s most famous wine region focus on siteexpressiveness

and most certainly deserve a visit.

SOPHIE BRUN AND HER FATHER JEAN-PIERRE AT THE MARKET ALONG THE BORDEAUX QUAYSIDE

ON A SUNDAY MORNING


BORDEAUX

DISCOVERY

PATRICE BELLY IN THE WINERY AT CHÂTEAU TOUR BEL AIR

From the shores of the Atlantic Ocean to the outskirts of Bordeaux, the Médoc

boasts an exceptional location, felicitous ocean climate and unique soils. On the

left bank of the Garonne, its 8 appellations, including two sub-regional AOCs, Médoc

and Haut-Médoc, and 6 village-designated appellations – Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac,

Saint-Julien, Moulis-en-Médoc, Listrac-Médoc and Margaux –cover 16,000 hectares

of world-class vineyards. Within this storied region with its legendary and characterful

labels, Médoc Crus Artisans have also made their mark with a new-found drive

over the past 35 years. The term ‘Cru Artisan’ stems from a classification which, until

the 19th century, made a distinction between the ‘Crus Bourgeois’, ‘Crus Paysans’ and

‘Crus Artisans’ within the region, based on the social status of the vineyard owner.

Some of them stemmed from a secondary line of business of local craftsmen, from

the cooper to the wheelwright and the blacksmith. The term could at the time be

occasionally pejorative and not very rewarding, but it has since evolved and led

to the emergence of a quality endorsement. In 1989, the Crus Artisans du Médoc

producers’ organisation spearheaded an initiative to regulate the Cru Artisan designation

and secure recognition under European law. Five years later, the European

Commission officialised the designation by including it on the list of protected

traditional statements, allowing it to be featured on bottles. Each applicant for the

8 Médoc appellations must therefore comply with strict specifications in order to be

awarded the coveted designation for five years. It is attributed to small and mediumsized

independent farms, where the person at the helm takes part in every task in

the vineyard and the winery, right through to marketing and management as the

decision-maker at every level. “The specific feature of the Cru Artisan is the strong

connection between the wine and the winegrower”, says Patrice Belly, who manages


99

BORDEAUX

DISCOVERY

PATRICE BELLY DURING THE HARVEST SEASON AT

CHÂTEAU TOUR BEL AIR

Château Tour Bel Air. “We make personalised wines

that are less standardised than those of certain

colleagues who make good wine but perhaps shy

away from taking as many initiatives”. This mantra

is one shared by many of the estates.

CHÂTEAU TOUR BEL AIR:

SUPPLENESS AND TANNINS

HARVESTING AT CHÂTEAU TOUR BEL AIR

Six kilometres from the Gironde estuary and the

legendary appellations of Saint-Estèphe and Pauillac,

Château Tour Bel Air has established itself as a benchmark

for Médoc Crus Artisans. Its 7.5 hectares of

vines are distributed over 5 closely located blocks,

the oldest of which is 50 years old and the youngest

10. Two thirds of the vineyards are situated in clayey

gravel areas, where vines thrive, and one third in sandy

soil with less gravel, on a layer of compact, shallow

clay, which is also conducive to quality. Agricultural

engineer Patrice Belly skilfully produces wines like

his Prestige label. Made from a selection of the finest

vineyard blocks on the estate, it is seductively elegant

with balanced suppleness and tannins. “My wines

reflect my personality and from one year to the next,

they have a family resemblance”, he stresses. “Due to

the size of the estate, I know my vineyard blocks like

the back of my hand. In each one, I identify the best

quality rows of vines. Everything we do to promote

quality, from work in the vineyard to the winery is

done by two employees and myself. The goal is to

produce wines that are quite supple, often rounder

than the norm within the appellation and above all

not wood-dominant”.

CHÂTEAU HAUT COULOUMEY:

MERLOT STEALS THE SHOW

Sometimes reputations can be established within a

short space of time. The impressive story of Château

Haut Couloumey began in Lesparre-Médoc in 1998.

As a young graduate, Pascal Sallenave decided to

found his own winery after gaining experience on a

Médoc estate. After planting vines, he produced his

first vintages in a co-operative winery. Then, keen


BORDEAUX

DISCOVERY

to branch out on his own, he converted his grandfather’s

old barn into a winery and started making

his own wines on the property in 2003. The estate’s

vineyard extends over 14 hectares, 4 of them leased,

on sandy gravelly soils. It is planted to three grape

varieties, spearheaded by Merlot (75%), followed

by Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) and Cabernet Franc

(5%). “Our proportion of Merlot makes us fairly

unusual because most Médoc wines are made from

Cabernet”, explains Sallenave. “This yields wines

that are round and drink well from a young age”.

In addition to its loyal private customers, the estate

has also developed sales with a trading company

focusing on exports which markets, inter alia,

its premium tank-aged Méline label and Manon,

matured in barrels.

VINEYARD WORK FOR PASCAL SALLENAVE AT CHÂTEAU HAUT COULOUMEY

CHÂTEAU GRAND BRUN: KEEPING

WINEGROWING IN THE FAMILY

OLIVIER BRUN TASTING WINES AT CHÂTEAU GRAND BRUN

In the Brun family, passion is shared from one

generation to the next and this art is perfectly

demonstrated by Jean-Pierre Brun and his two

children Sophie and Olivier who skilfully manage

the production side. Set between Pauillac, Saint

Julien and Margaux, Château Grand Brun has

been classified as a Médoc Cru Artisan since

2005. Its 10.5 hectares in Haut-Médoc are complemented

by 2 hectares in Bordeaux Supérieur. In

1987, after studying viticulture and oenology,

Olivier Brun joined his father on the estate. A

year later, he created the Château Grand Brun

brand and made his first wines in the family cellar,

before being joined by his sister Sophie in 2003.

“We have been a family business for six generations”,

she explains. “Being a Cru Artisan implies

being constantly involved in the estate at every

stage from viticulture to winemaking, including

marketing and direct sales, while sharing our

passion with our customers”. This goal is achieved

to perfection with wines that show beautiful

aromatic intensity with notes of dried apricot and

red fruit jam and rounded tannins that produce

subtle, appetising wines.


101

BORDEAUX

DISCOVERY

CHÂTEAU D’OSMOND: NATURALLY BLESSED

Created in 1987, Château d’Osmond boasts 9 hectares of vines being converted to

organic near Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe. Since the 2021 harvest, Frédéric Morlier, the

estate’s new owner, has been passionately building on the work of his predecessors and

aims to further maximise the quality of this Médoc Cru Artisan. He produces around

50,000 bottles per year. The vineyard is planted in narrow rows on sandy-gravelly soil

that promotes quality vine growing. The varietal range is split between 50% Merlot,

36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc. “The Cru Artisan

designation refers to a small property”, comments Morlier. “It imbues the process

with an authentic, family spirit that is accessible to a wide audience. The identity of a

Cru is forged through its ability to engage with its visitors and customers. We show

off our facilities, vines, vats and barrel cellar. We explain our choices and let people

taste our wines in a transparent and simple way”. Wine enthusiasts are not just interested

in prices, they feel the need to sense a winegrower’s ethos through discovery

and tasting. “There seems to be renewed interest today in the authenticity of Crus

Artisans”, believes Morlier. “Private customers represent an important part of our sales

with regular export markets in Japan, the United States, Belgium, Senegal, Cameroon

and Portugal”.

WORK IN THE WINERY AT CHÂTEAU D’OSMOND


AN INCREDIBLE BOTTLE

WINES THAT CAPTURE THE CURRENT ZEITGEIST

Since 2017, the year of the last classification, 36 properties have been classified as

Médoc Crus Artisans for the 2017 to 2021 vintages – the classification is reviewed

every 5 years. Each property nurtures its own distinctive identity, and its differences,

through the choice of production techniques. It is probably easier for them to foster

a closer relationship, as they do, with their customers than for other top appellations.

The personality of the winegrower adds value through individual experiences, history

and expertise, all of which are perfectly conveyed to customers. These advantages are

further strengthened by price points which, though not entry-level, remain accessible

considering the quality of the wines. Crus Artisans revolve around regionality, terroir

and a close rapport with consumers, allowing them to align with current market

demands – artisanal is highly valued by consumers. Now recognised in France, Médoc

Crus Artisans need to move to a new level in their development and expand their international

reach. This is a major challenge for a category where many estates do not

necessarily have the time or the logistics to approach importers. But the quality of the

wines is their precious trump card.


103

NEBBIOLO,

THE PRINCE OF GRAPE VARIETIES

IN NORTH-WEST ITALY

BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO

PHOTOGRAPHS:


Nebbiolo is widely considered to be the prince of Northern Italian grape varieties

due to its elegance and undisputed longevity. This historic variety is widespread

across North-West Italy, in Piedmont, Lombardy and Valle d’Aosta. We drill down

on one of Italy’s most iconic grapes.

THE CIABOT BERTON ESTATE PRODUCES 4 DIFFERENT BAROLO WINES: ROGGERI; ROCCHETTEVINO, BERTON 1961 AND LA MORRA


ITALY

GRAPE

TREADING THE GRAPES AT THE TRADITIONAL GRAPE HARVEST FESTIVAL IN FONTANAFREDDA

In the Unesco heritage area of the Langhe, Roero and the Monferrato hills, the variety

is called Nebbiolo, but in other areas of Alto-Piemonte, Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina it

takes on different names including Spanna, Chiavennasca, Prunent, Picotendro, Melasca

and Martesana. The documented origins of Nebbiolo date back to the Middle Ages where

it was mentioned in 1272 as being given as a gift to the King of England and Duke of

Aquitaine Edward I. In 1800 it became a favourite of Thomas Jefferson who declared

he wanted to import it to the USA after tasting a ‘Gattinara’. Nebbiolo took its next step

forward in 1835 with Carlo Alberto in Pollenzo where, thanks to General Staglieno, the

winemaker/marketer Oudart and Camillo Benso Count of Cavour, the forerunner of

Barolo was born.

A SLOW RIPENER

Nebbiolo has significant genetic variability and as many as 90 clones have recently been

identified, grouped into seven genotypes according to SNV analyses (Gambino et al.,

2017). In the Langhe you can find Lampia, Michet, Rosé and Bolla. The latter two can no

longer be used for the production of Barolo. Nebbiolo is mostly prevalent in Piedmont

(4 500 ha), Valtellina (50 ha) and Valle d’Aosta (45 ha) but it is also grown outside Italy, in

Mexico, Australia, the USA, Uruguay, Chile and other areas (such as China) for a total

area of around 600 ha. Its growth cycle is long and because it ripens slowly, it can be used

to produce very aromatic wines with a robust structure. It has always been planted in

the best South and South-West aspects (in the ‘sorì’), and only on hilly terrain at between

200m and 450m above sea level. However, nowadays, due to climate change, some producers

are experimenting with less exposed and higher altitude plantings.


105

ITALY

GRAPE

GIANNI MARTINI AND HIS DAUGHTER ELEONORA, OWNERS OF

THE GREAT PIEDMONT WINERY

THE ASPECT OF THE VINEYARDS AT CASCINA LO ZOCCOLAIO IS AMONG THE BEST IN

THE AREA AND IS A FUNDAMENTAL REQUIREMENT FOR VINES SUCH AS ‘NEBBIOLO DA

BAROLO’, WHICH IS VERY DEMANDING IN TERMS OF SOIL AND EXPOSURE

The ‘main’ designations of origin using Nebbiolo

in Piedmont, Lombardy and Valle d’Aosta are the

following: Barolo DOCG; Barbaresco DOCG; Roero

DOCG; Gattinara DOCG, ; Ghemme DOCG Piedmont

DOC; Langhe DOC; Alba DOC; Albugnano

DOC; Colli Tortonesi DOC; Colline Novaresi DOC;

Colline Saluzzesi DOC; Coste della Sesia DOC; Fara

DOC; Lessona DOC; Monferrato DOC; Terre Alfieri

DOC; Boca DOC; Bramaterra DOC; Sizzano DOC;

Canavese DOC; Carema DOC; Valli Ossolane DOC;

Pinerolese DOC; Sforzato di Valtellina or Sfursat di

Valtellina DOCG; Valtellina Rosso DOC; Valtellina

Superiore DOCG (several sub-areas); Valle d’Aosta

DOC (several sub-areas).

The two most important appellations (100%

Nebbiolo) are, of course, Barolo and Barbaresco. The

former is located a few kilometres South of the city of

Alba, covering 11 localities: the entire areas of Barolo,

Serralunga d’Alba and Castiglione Falletto, and parts

of Grinzane Cavour, La Morra, Monforte, Verduno,

Novello, Diano d’Alba, Cherasco and Roddi.

The Barbaresco production area, on the other hand,

includes the entire area and localities of Barbaresco,

Treiso, Neive and part of Alba. To date, there are

181 official MGAs (menzioni geografiche aggiuntive)

in the Barolo area, 11 of them village-designated, defining

the strong link with the individual ‘climates’ in

the area. In the Barbaresco area there are 66 MGAs.

The breakdown in vineyard area is approximately

1,800 hectares for Barolo and 700 for Barbaresco,

with output standing at some 12 million bottles of

Barolo and 6 million of Barbaresco.

We take a closer look at some of the most prestigious

producers in the two appellation areas.

FRATELLI MARTINI

‘CASCINA LO ZOCCOLAIO’

THE JEWEL IN THE CROWN

Cascina Lo Zoccolaio is owned by Gianni Martini

and his daughter Eleonora. It produces exclusively

red wines from over 30 hectares of vineyards located

in Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, Novello and Verdino.

Every step of the winemaking process is conducted

with great passion and dedication. The grapes are

lovingly cared for and the mantra here is to show


ITALY

GRAPE

respect for the rhythms of nature. Harvesting is

done carefully by hand, selecting the best clusters.

From gently pressing the grapes, through to

fermentation and ageing, all the way through to

bottling, respect is shown for tradition but using the

most modern methods and equipment. The family

believes Nebbiolo is one of the noblest grape varieties,

along with Pinot Noir, producing elegant wines

that are spicy, but never thick or austere. This is the

ultimate noble wine whose qualities are enhanced

with ageing in wooden casks. It can be laid down in

bottles for many years without losing its flavour. The

company aims to treat its vines and vineyard sites

with respect by using traditional methods of tillage

and no weedkillers. It is a practitioner of sustainable

winegrowing, and is certified SQPNI. The

careful selection of grapes and low yield production

demonstrate its focus on maximising quality. Its

key markets, outside Italy, are Germany, England,

Northern Europe and the United States.

CAGLIERO SPECIALISES IN THE PRODUCTION OF QUALITY GRAPES WHICH ARE USED TO

MAKE THE MOST FAMOUS RED WINES IN PIEDMONT.

THE CURRENT NET VINEYARD AREA AMOUNTS TO ABOUT 6 HECTARES

THE BARREL CELLAR AT CAGLIERO WHERE NEBBIOLO IS

VINIFIED IN MANY WAYS

AZ. AGR. CAGLIERO A HISTORY

DATING BACK TO 1500

The company was founded by one of the oldest

winegrowing families in Barolo in 1500. The arrival

of phylloxera in the early 1900s led most of the family

to move away from their home land and seek their

fortune in the city. The vineyard was kept going by

their uncle Giovanni Battista until Mario Cagliero,

grandfather of the current owner Stefano, returned

with the aim of rebuilding and reviving the family’s

Barolo traditions. 1961 was their first ‘official’ vintage

when they produced an exceptional Barolo, marking

a turning point for the family’s fortunes.

Stefano Cagliero believes Nebbiolo is the area’s

main grape variety and should be understood as

such, albeit with different regional variations.

Barolo Ravera is a symbol of the region, tradition

and Langhe peasant culture. It has a local Piedmont

personality, appearing initially austere, almost surly,

with hard tannins that don’t initially seem appealing,

but when it begins to open up, it reveals its

true flavours, expressing incredible self-confidence

together with persistence, softness and elegance.

Barolo Terlo, the latest wine, is softer, delicate, femi-


107

NEBBIOLO IS VINIFIED IN THE CLASSIC WAY, AIMING FOR AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS WITH THE SUPPORT OF THE WELL-KNOWN CONSULTANT

WINEMAKER GIANFRANCO CORDERO (PICTURED HERE WITH PIERNICOLA BRUNO)

nine, less structured and fresher. Langhe Nebbiolo is structured but, at the same time,

fresh, thanks to 15% of Barbera. Finally the Langhe Rosso (Dolcetto and Nebbiolo) combines

the immediacy of Dolcetto and the intensity of Nebbiolo. The winery subscribes to a classical

approach from the vineyard to the cellar. To achieve maximum regional expression,

however, technological evolutions need to be taken on board, lending the wines an even

sharper identity. The winery’s mantra is “Deep roots in tradition but always looking to the

future”. Cagliero’s markets are the USA, Canada, Northern Europe and South East Asia.

SERRAGRILLI HILL

A PIECE OF BARBARESCO HISTORY

In 1890, Lequio Alessandro arrived with his family on ‘Serragrilli’ hill and began planting

vineyards to produce wine, in what was to become Agricola Lequio Alessandro. His son

Giuseppe and subsequently his son Alessandro expanded the vineyards, becoming one of

the few wineries in Neive to produce wine using only their own grapes. Alessandro had

3 daughters – Rosanna, Daniela and Antonella – who improved and expanded production,

helping the winery to achieve its first awards in a male-dominated environment. In 1990

the brand changed to ‘Collina Serragrilli’, honouring one of the best Barbaresco crus. In

1998, Rosanna’s husband Bruno Piernicola, who came from a family of Barolo producers,

joined the business and decided to reorganise the vineyards with the help of consultant

winemaker Gianfranco Cordero into single-vineyard parcels with the aim of producing

distinctive wines. The agronomic approach is respectful of the environment and avoids

products with a high environmental impact. In fact, the business is certified ‘The Green

Experience’. The barriques have been replaced by larger tonneaux and large barrels to

preserve the specific characteristics of the grapes. The aim is to produce clean, classic wines


LÉGENDES

THE LA BIÒCA WINERY TEAM IS YOUNG AND DYNAMIC LIKE THE WINES IT PRODUCES

that can be enjoyed even when they are young, without harming their potential longevity.

Piernicola Bruno believes that “Sipping Nebbiolo transports you to the Langhe in October,

with its beautiful hills, splendid colours and vineyards that have adorned the landscape

since time began”. The wine is closed and stubborn when young but as it ages, it becomes

deeper, calmer and softer, though preserves its innate strength, just like its winemakers,

who will never accept compromise. Collina Serragrilli produces the following wines from

Nebbiolo: Langhe Nebbiolo DOC, Barbaresco DOCG ‘Cru Serragrilli’, Barbaresco DOCG ‘cru

Starderi’ and a very small amount of Barolo from Piernicola’s family vineyards in Monforte

d’Alba. Today, the Collina Serragrilli brand is registered worldwide and, in addition to Italy,

the key markets are Switzerland, Belgium, Holland, UK, Canada, USA, Brazil, Japan, Hong

Kong and Taiwan.

LA BIÒCA – A BLEND OF TRADITION AND INNOVATION

La Biòca is a winery located in Serralunga d’Alba, in the Langhe, which was founded in 2012.

The word ‘biòca’, in the Piedmontese dialect, means a ‘stubborn, determined person’ which

is an apt description of the winegrowers in this region who strive, vintage after vintage,

to produce the best grapes and the best wines. La Biòca believes in balancing innovation

with tradition, which is why they mainly use large barrels made from French and Slavonian

oak. The wines are racked in tonneaux and barriques more than 5 times. There is no lack of

experimentation, as evidenced, for example, by the 18 hl of unglazed Cocciopesto amphora

in which a Nebbiolo cru from Monforte d’Alba (San Sebastiano) is matured.

The young producers at La Biòca view Nebbiolo as the king of the Langhe, which in this

area acquires a unique mix of aromatic complexity, tannicity and elegance. La Biòca uses

integrated pest control and in the cellar macerations are weighted according to the vintage.


109

ITALY

GRAPE

The wines with Nebbiolo as the base are the Langhe

Nebbiolo DOC ‘Riccinnebbia’ (matured in stainless

steel only), the Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC ‘Pipina’ (matured

only in cocciopesto amphora) and the Nebbiolo d’Alba

Superiore DOC ‘Stërmà’ (vinified in a special steel

cask where part remains and part is matured in large

oak casks). The Barolos produced are Aculei, Ravera,

Monvigliero, Bussia and Stolèt while the Barbarescos

are Ronchi and Secondine. The markets are divided

between 50% Italy and 50% abroad (UK, Thailand,

Australia, China, Japan, Russia and the USA).

FONTANAFREDDA

FROM KING VITTORIO EMANUELE II

TO ORGANIC

THE FONTANAFREDDA VILLAGE, IN THE HEART OF THE SPLENDID UNESCO-LISTED

VINEYARD LANDSCAPE OF THE LANGHE, PROVIDED THE BACKDROP FOR THE LOVE STORY

BETWEEN THE KING OF ITALY, VITTORIO EMMANUELE II, AND ROSA VERCELLANA

THE VINEYARDS AT FONTANAFREDDA

In 1858, the Fontanafredda estate was purchased by

King Vittorio Emanuele II, as a gift for his beloved

‘Rosina’ and it was later named after their children.

In 1878 their son Count Emanuele Alberto founded a

winery on the estate. Its 300 hectares were farmed

directly by specialised employees which was unusual

for the time. In 1918 the company was in its heyday in

terms of sales and production, employing 200 people

with over 40 families living in the village.

Unfortunately, in 1931, due to phylloxera and the

Great Depression, the estates and winery were sold

to Monte dei Paschi di Siena, which converted it

into ‘Tenimenti di Barolo e Fontanafredda’, while

the ‘Casa E di Mirafiore’ brand was purchased by the

Gancia family. In 1964, the first certified Barolo Cru

‘Vigna La Rosa’ was produced, and in 1988 the first

Barolo Serralunga d’Alba, with the village designated

on the label. In 2008, the estate was purchased by

Oscar Farinetti and Luca Baffigo. Since 2018, it has

been certified organic and in 2022 it was also certified

Equalitas, vegan and Marchio Storico. Organic

production begins by stimulating the symbiotic relationship

between vineyards and forests, preserving

and increasing biodiversity. Yeasts from the estate’s

own vineyards are selected for fermentation. Cement

is used for maturing the fresh red wines, while Slavonian

and Allier oak barrels are used for the more

structured and mature offerings. The producers at

Fontanafredda believe that Nebbiolo is the noblest

grape, due to its personality, elegance, but above all


ITALY

GRAPE

its ability to birth wines with different identities. The winery ferments the grapes traditionally using,

for example, medium and large capacity Slavonian oak barrels, with the aim of bringing the flavours

from the region into the glass. The highest volumes are for the Barolo di Serralunga and the Barolo

Classico, but there are also some niche pours such as the Barolo Vigna La Rosa, Vigna la Villa and Vigna

La Delizia. The company generates around 55% of its revenue from markets outside Italy, with Sweden,

Norway, the USA, Canada and Japan as key destinations.

CIABOT BERTON - A FAMILY TRADITION

The company was founded in the 1960s thanks to the intuition of Luigi Oberto who comes from many

generations of winegrowers in La Morra. Oberto carried on the business until 2005, successfully

increasing vineyard area to 10 hectares of vines over the years. In the 1990s, he was joined by his son

Marco, who took over the business in 1997. Thanks to his commitment, the company now boasts almost

15 hectares of vineyards. Marco’s wife Federica handles marketing, while his sister Paola takes care of the

office work and customer management. Ciabot Berton’s vision of Nebbiolo is that of a noble, versatile

vine with great personality that can convey the flavours of the region and has the ability to reproduce

vintage variation features in the glass, combined with its intimate interaction with the soil where it

grows. Sandy soil yields ethereal and graceful Nebbiolo, as with Langhe Nebbiolo or village-designated

Barolo, while marl and clay or limestone produce wines showing greater body and structure. They are

elegant and rich with more stubborn and intriguing tannins and sensations that are at times more spicy

or fruity, depending on the original vineyard site.

The wine must be evocative and authentically convey the essence of its vineyard provenance; it is

fermented and matured separately. The Barolo is macerated in cement tanks, followed by maturation

FIVE GENERATIONS OF OBERTO FAMILY WINEGROWERS IN LA MORRA HAVE AN ANCIENT AND INDELIBLE

BOND WITH LA MORRA AND THE BAROLO HILLS


111

ITALY

GRAPE

GIOVANNI AND PAOLA SORDO INSPECT THEIR VINEYARDS

in large Slavonian oak casks. There is minimal

impact on varietal and regional identity, and the

focus is on quality and environmental sustainability.

The company uses massal selection, allowing it to

work with vines that have adapted best to the area.

The key markets are Great Britain, Japan, the USA,

South Korea, Switzerland, Belgium and in recent

years also Italy.

SORDO GIOVANNI WINES

THE LARGEST COLLECTION OF

BAROLO CRUS

CANTINA SORDO WINES ARE LEFT TO REST IN LARGE OAK BARRELS IN THE HEART OF THE

WINERY, ITS BARREL CELLAR

This winery is located in Castiglione Falletto, in

the heart of the Barolo area. It is one of the largest

private estates in the Langhe and the winery has

over 100 years of history. It has been family-run

for four generations. Today, the estate is helmed

by third-generation Giorgio Sordo, who mainly

manages the vineyard, and fourth-generation

Paola Sordo, who supports the winemaking team

alongside her father Giorgio. Sordo is a traditionalist,

concentrating on the production of very elegant

single-vineyard Barolo matured in large Slavonian

oak barrels.

For the Sordo family, Nebbiolo is the most precious

grape variety, capable of displaying complex nuances

when it is young while also impressing with its longevity.

In the Sordo winery, Barolo Riserva dating back

to the 1980s are available, and today the following

Nebbiolo-based wines are produced, including

8 Barolos from 5 different villages: Nebbiolo d’Alba

DOC (Roero area), Barolo DOCG classico, Rocche

di Castiglione, Parussi, Villero, Monprivato, Perno,

Gabutti, Ravera and Monvigliero. The Sordo family’s

dream is to increase this selection with new single-vineyard

labels. They work with care and respect in

the vineyard and ferment their wines traditionally,

submerging the cap during maceration in stainless

steel tanks for some 4/6 weeks. Only the maturation

process is carried out in wooden barrels, for 2 years

for the classic Barolo and 3 years for Barolo Riserva.

The Sordo family’s target markets are mainly the

hotel sector and the following countries: the USA,

Australia, South Korea, Hong Kong, China, Italy,

Great Britain and Denmark.


THE VAIRA FAMILY: ALDO VAIRA AND MILENA VAIRA WITH THEIR CHILDREN GIUSEPPE VAIRA, FRANCESCA VAIRA AND ISIDORO VAIRA

G.D. VAJRA - HISTORY, RESPECT AND RESEARCH

In Turin in 1968, Aldo Vaira was fifteen years old and dreamt of living surrounded by nature.

The desire to take over the family vineyards led him to leave city life and begin this adventure.

A pioneer in organic farming, he obtained one of the first certificates awarded in Piedmont

in the early 1970s. His wife Milena and then their children Giuseppe, Francesca and Isidoro,

brought additional support to the business. Vineyard research opened up to studies on the

influence of soils, climate change and a renewed focus on flora and fauna.

Aldo Vaira has been considered “the most modern of traditionalists and the most traditional

of modernists” as he is in love with tradition, but capable of viewing it through a scientific

and reasoned approach in order to produce wines that are increasingly enjoyable and palatable

and have a strong identity. The high-altitude vineyards remain one of the distinguishing

features of G.D. Vajra wines, as does the house style which yields wines of great finesse and

complexity. Nebbiolo is, of course, at the heart of production (30ha), and is produced with

varietal and regional sensitivity and respect. The company views this grape variety as multifaceted

and challenging, faithfully conveying the flavours of the region.

Emblematic of G.D. Vajra and the company’s vision of Nebbiolo is its Barolo Bricco delle

Viole, the highest and westernmost cru in Barolo. It also produces Barolo Mga Ravera, Coste

di Rose, Baudana and Cerretta, and the ‘classic’ Barolo Albe, as well as Langhe Nebbiolo,

Rosato di Nebbiolo and two limited production wines, ‘N.S. della Neve’ (a Classic Method

rosé, 60% Nebbiolo and 40% Pinot Noir) and ‘Claré JC’ with Nebbiolo grapes which are

fermented as whole clusters. G.D. Vajra sells 90% of its wines abroad.

Among Italian grape varieties, Nebbiolo is the one that best depicts the perfect combination

of elegance and longevity. This can be ascribed to Barolo and Barbaresco wines, but also to the

other appellations that are focusing on this fascinating variety which is currently suffering

less than others from the effects of climate change.


113

TIM BURTON

FROM GOTHIC FANTASY

TO EPICUREAN REALITY

BY FRANK ROUSSEAU,

OUR CORRESPONDENT

IN THE UNITED STATES

TIM BURTON WAS INTERVIEWED

AT THE FESTIVAL LUMIÈRE IN LYON

PHOTOGRAPHS:

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Last October, Tim Burton received the prestigious Prix Lumière which is

awarded annually in Lyon to leading cinema personalities. The American

director, who has produced some of the greatest masterpieces of the film

industry, from ‘Batman’ and ‘Alice in Wonderland’ to ‘Edward Scissorhands’

and ‘Charlie and the Chocolate Factory’, discovered the Capital of Gaul, its

gastronomy and the region’s wines.

What does it feel like to be in Lyon, the world’s gourmet food

capital?

This is the first time I’ve been here! The hospitality is fantastic.

I just had a little taste of the local gastronomy when I arrived

in my room. I’ve also drunk some really good wines, especially

Beaujolais and Jura, which I had no idea existed on Earth. You

French certainly know how to entertain. I was served extraordinary

wines. Wines that would have woken the dead and allowed

them to see life in colour. And believe me, I know what I am

talking about! I specialise in all things gothic and sometimes

macabre. I know about darkness! I’ve even made a business

out of it! (laughs)

From your appearance, you don’t look like an Epicurean…

Don’t judge a book by its cover! Just because I’m always dressed

in black doesn’t mean I don’t enjoy good food and the finer

things in life. We are only passing through this world and while

we are at it, I don’t see why I should miss out on good food and

wine! Unlike some people, though, I am not a big eater. I’m a

grazer. But what I graze on or drink revolves around quality

products! I’d rather go without than eat any old thing! I don’t

want to be a vulgar digestive tube that fills up!

So when you enjoy a good wine, it’s not in a castle worthy of

Dracula?

I avoid that because I don’t want red wine to excite our friend


STARS

& WINE

TIM BURTON WITH FRANK ROUSSEAU

Dracula and give him any ideas! I drink wine

with my friends so that time can stand still in

their delightful company. Usually after watching

a good film. I find the combination of wine and

film goes well together! I don’t try and understand

why. That’s just how it is!

Where does your unbridled creativity come from?

Wine?

I’m sure it can’t hurt me! (laughs). You know, I

don’t want to be a tormented artist! I’m not interested

in living in darkness all the time. But I

think we need conflicting energy to give the best

we can. How does creativity come about? I’ve been

to counselling a million times and I still haven’t

found the answer to that yet!

What is the biggest fright of your life and conversely,

the most beautiful moment?

When I eat mashed potatoes, I’m in my comfort

zone! (laughs). The same goes for drinking a bottle

of Bordeaux in the company of people who are

aware of what I am serving them! For example,

seeing someone not finish their glass makes me

sad. It’s an insult to all those who don’t have the

good fortune to drink good wines and also for

those who have bottled it, don’t you think?! But,

just so you know, I haven’t reached the stage where

I collect corks!

Do you sleep well at night?

Again, it depends on my dinner. If the meal was

really flavourful and the wines were ‘airy’, then

there’s a good chance that my dreams will be great!

Basically, my sleep patterns are very variable, they

change all the time! I can sleep like a log or not

sleep at all. You didn’t think I slept in a coffin and

that I had just bought a cemetery in Transylvania,

did you?! Oh, and I don’t sleep with a bottle of

Petrus on my bedside table either!


115

CONTACT

DETAILS

Champagne - Pages 10-28

• Champagne P. Lancelot-Royer:

Tel. +33 3 26 57 51 41 -

champagne.lancelot.royer@cder.fr

• Champagne Legras-Frapart: Tel. +33 3 26 57 61 56 -

www.champagne-legras-frapart.com

• Champagne Franck Bonville:

Tel. +33 3 26 57 52 30 -

http://champagne-franck-bonville.com

• Champagne Lombard: Tel. +33 3 26 59 57 40 -

www.champagne-lombard.com

• Champagne Collet: Tel. +33 3 26 55 15 88 -

www.champagne-collet.com

• Champagne Paul Déthune: Tel. +33 3 26 57 09 31 -

https://champagne-dethune.fr

• Champagne Laurianne Lejour:

Tel. +33 6 64 42 99 08 -

www.facebook.com/champagnelejour/

• Champagne Paul Sadi: Tel. +33 3 26 40 25 18 -

www.champagne-paul-sadi.fr

• La Commanderie diffusion: Tel. +33 6 07 10 91 18 -

28 Rue de Tours sur Marne, 51150 Bouzy

• Champagne Michel Arnould et Fils:

Tel. +33 3 26 49 40 06 -

www.champagne-michel-arnould.com

• Champagne Maurice Vesselle:

Tel. +33 3 26 57 00 81 -

http://www.champagnemauricevesselle.com

Cahors - Pages 30-41

• Château Eugénie: Tel. +33 5 65 30 73 51 -

www.chateaueugenie.com

• Château Vincens: Tel. +33 5 65 30 51 55 -

www.chateauvincens.fr

• Vignobles Pelvillain Domaine du Théron:

Tel. +33 5 65 20 13 13 -

www.vignoblespelvillain.com

• Château de Gaudou: Tel. +33 5 65 36 52 93 -

www.chateaudegaudou.com

• Famille Baldès Clos Triguedina:

Tel. +33 5 65 21 30 81 - www.jlbaldes.com

• Château Nozière: Tel. +33 5 65 36 52 73 -

www.chateaunozieres.com

• Château Famaey: Tel. +33 5 65 30 59 42 -

www.chateaufamaey.com

• Château Lamartine: Tel. +33 5 65 36 54 14 -

www.cahorslamartine.fr

Rhone Valley - Pages 42-53

• Domaine du Père Caboche:

Tel. +33 4 90 83 71 44 - boisson@jpboisson.com

• Domaine Olivier Hillaire: Tel. +33 4 90 48 03 87 -

domaine.olivier.hillaire@orange.fr

• Mas Saint Louis: Tel. +33 4 90 83 73 12 -

contact@mas-saint-louis.fr

• Domaine La Mereuille: Tel. +33 4 90 34 10 68 -

micbouyer@wanadoo.fr

• Château Mongin: Tel. +33 4 90 51 48 04 -

expl.lpa.orange@educagri.fr

• Xavier Vignon: Tel. +33 4 90 94 76 85 -

xavier@xaviervignon.com

• Maison Ogier: Tel. +33 4 90 39 32 41 -

boutique@ogier.fr

• Château Correnson: Tel. +33 4 66 50 05 28 -

contact@chateau-correnson.com

• Domaine Maby: Tel. +33 4 66 50 03 40 -

domaine-maby@wanadoo.fr

• Château Trinquevedel: Tel. +33 4 66 50 04 04 -

demoulin@chateau-trinquevedel.fr

Italy - Pages 54-63

Emilia-Romagna

• Azienda Agricola Brachini: Tel. +39 054 253778 -

info@branchini1858.it

• Tenuta Pederzana: Tel. +39 059 748072 -

info@tenutapederzana.it

• Celli Vini: Tel. +39 054 3445183 -

celli@celli-vini.com

• Settecani Cantina Castelvetro:

Tel. + 39 059 702505 - info@cantinasettecani.it

Umbria

• Agricola Mevante: Tel. +39 3498 057501 -

info@agricolamevante.com

• La Veneranda: Tel. +39 0742 951630 -

info@laveneranda.com

• Agricola Montioni: Tel. +39 0742 379 214 -

info@gabrielemontioni.it

• Arnaldo Caprai: Tel. +39 0742 378 802 -

info@arnaldocaprai.it

Czech Republic - Pages 64-73

• Vinselekt Michlovský: Tel. +420 519 360 870 -

www.michlovsky.com/en/

• Thaya: Tel. +420 736 479 974 -

www.vinarstvithaya.cz/en/

• Maňák Winery: Tel. +420 773 684 685 -

www.vinarstvi-manak.cz

• B\V Winery: Tel. +420 603 821 361 -

www.bvvinarstvi.cz/en/

South Africa - Pages 74-83

• DTK: Tel. +27 23 349 1601 - dtkwines.com

• Overhex: Tel. +27 (0)23 347 5012 - overhex.com

• Nuy: Tel. +27 23 347 0272 - nuywinery.co.za

• Robertson Winery: Tel. +27 23 626 3059 -

robertsonwinery.co.za

• Bon Courage: Tel. +27 23 626 4178 -

boncourage.co.za

• Weltevrede: Tel. +27 23 616 2141 - weltevrede.com

• Bonnievale: Tel. +27 23 616 2795 -

bonnievalewines.co.za

Portugal - Pages 84-92

• Adega de Cantanhede: Tel. +351 231 419 540 -

geral@cantanhede.com

• João Portugal Ramos: Tel. +351 268 339 910 -

geral@jportugalramos.pt

• Morais Rocha Wines: Tel. +351 912 106 762 -

www.moraisrocha.com

• Casa Santos Lima: Tel. +351 263 760 621 -

geral@casasantoslima.com

Spain - Pages 93-97

• García Carrión: Tel: +34 900 1890 10 -

www.garciacarrion.com

Bordeaux - Pages 98-103

• Château Tour Bel Air: Tel. +33 6 31 83 06 90 -

www.tourbelair.com

• Château Haut Couloumey:

Tel. +33 6 86 82 48 07 - www.hautcouloumey.fr

• Château Grand Brun: Tel. +33 5 56 58 97 87-

www.chateau-grand-brun.com

• Château d’Osmond: Tel. +33 5 56 59 59 17-

https://chateaudosmond.com

Italy - Pages 104-113

• Ciabot Berton: Tel. +39 0173 50217 -

info@ciabotberton.it

• Collina Serragrilli: Tel. +39 3388 961 168 -

info@serragrilli.it

• Fontanafredda: Tel. +39 0173 626 454 -

info@fontanafredda.it

• Sordo Giovanni Azienda Agricola:

Tel. +39 0173 62853 - visit@sordogiovanni.it

• La Biòca S.r.l. agricola: Tel. +39 0173 613 022 -

info@labioca.it

• Fratelli Martini Secondo Luigi S.p.A:

Tel. +39 0141 837 211 - info@fratellimartini.it -

info@cascinalozoccolaio.it -

• Azienda Agricola G.D Vajra: Tel. +39 017 356 257 -

welcome@gdvajra.it

• Cagliero Az. Agr. S.s.: Tel. +39 0173 56172 -

info@cagliero.com


PAGES 119 TO 130

TOP WINES

GOODBYE 2022, HELLO 2023

This final session of 2022 fully delivered on its promise and we are now focusing on our objectives

for 2023. Our big news is that, after touring Central and Eastern Europe with some success

for the past year, we are now heading off to conquer South America. Welcome to Vivien Morvan

who recently joined us and will be moving to Mendoza at the start of 2023 and will ultimately be

travelling around the entire continent from his base in Argentina. With him comes the promise

of some great tastings, with a very exotic twist!

THE VINEYARDS OF MENDOZA, WITH THE ANDES MOUNTAINS IN THE BACKGROUND

THE BEST OF WINTER 2022

Our medal chart for this fourth session takes into account our latest tastings, as always, and the topics

addressed in the relevant magazine articles. It therefore features a selection of German wines, a country

we focused on in the 49th issue of this magazine (Autumn 2022), followed by Czech wines from Moravia,

Slovacko and Velke Pavlovice. No festive season would be complete without a selection of Champagnes,

along with a choice of organic wines or wines in the conversion phase from Emilia-Romagna and Umbria.

Lastly, we take you on a little road trip through the Breede River Valley, a prime destination for discovering

South African wines.

THE TASTING PANEL:

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS GILBERT - SYLVAIN PATARD

OLIVIER DELORME - JAMES TURNBULL - BRUNO MICHAL - MATTHIEU GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS BEZUIDENHOUT


117

CZECH REPUBLIC WINES - MORAVIA

OUR WINTER SELECTION

CZECH REPUBLIC

The Czech Republic may not be home

to extensive vineyards, but it does

produce top quality wines from local

and international grape varieties

along the (current) northerly

threshold for growing vines. These

are probably Europe’s most exotic

wines and they most certainly deserve

urgent attention!

MORAVIA

MIKULOV

VINSELEKT MICHLOVSKÝ 92/100

D NADALIE PERLE BLANCHE SAUVIGNON

2017: Light yellow-gold. Vanilla and toast on

the nose ballasted by juicy citrus, fruit and white

flowers. Dense palate accompanied by seductive

oak influence and very energetic, zippy fruit.

The finish is full-bodied, fresh and long in this

top-flight Sauvignon.

http://www.michlovsky.com Price: € 24.00

Vinselekt Michlovský +420 519 360 870

MORAVIA

STEPAN MANAK 92/100

D GRAN RESERVA 2018: Concentrated

colour tinged with ruby-garnet. Smoky vanilla

on the nose with black fruit, sweet spice, pot

pourri and tar notes. Powerful, warm palate

with muscular, sleek body. The fruit copes well

with the oak influence. Firmness on the finish.

Would benefit from more bottle age.

http://www.vinarstvi-manak.cz Price: € 30.00

Vinarstvi Stepan Manak +420 773 684 685

STEPAN MANAK 92/100

D PALAVA 2020: Yellow-gold. Appealing

nose combining tropical fruits and yellow

plum with oak undertones. A fleshy attack

is the prelude to a beautifully voluptuous,

concentrated palate laden with fruity and herbal

nuances. Lovely purity and persistency.



STEPAN MANAK 91/100

D CHARDONNAY - VYBER Z HROZNU

2019: Bright, light gold. Nose of white liquorice,

mirabelle plum, dried fruits, bush peach, white

flower infusion and rhubarb. Fruit rapidly

harnesses the broad-ranging, mouth-coating

weight on the palate. The finish is structured

and juicy. Generous breadth.



SLOVACKO

BV VINARSTVI 92/100

D RESERVA BARRIQUE - CHARDONNAY

2018: Bright, gold ingot hue. Toasted vanilla,

flower honey and dried fruits on the nose

complemented by white fruits. The palate offers

up roundness and opulence that is rich yet

delicate and marked by elaborate oak influence.

The perfumes are only just starting to open up.

Superb.

https://www.bvvinarstvi.cz Price: € 25.00

BV vinarstvi +420 730 595 426

VINSELEKT MICHLOVSKÝ WINEMAKER MILOŠ

MICHLOVSKÝ IS ALSO AN ACTIVE BREEDER OF

RESISTANT VARIETIES

BV VINARSTVI 92/100

D RESERVA - PINOT NOIR 2015: Light

garnet tinged with brown. Nose of red and black

fruit compote with humus, mushroom and

leather. Open palate offering up a very savoury

liqueur-like sensation enhanced by a saline

streak. A structured, melt-in-the-mouth wine

that deserves to be discovered immediately.


BV vinarstvi +420 730 595 426

BV VINARSTVI 91/100

D RESERVA - CHARDONNAY 2017: Bright

gold. Nose of tropical fruits (pineapple),

heady white flowers and fresh vanilla. Joyful,

mouthfilling palate offering up a lovely lineup

of silky, generous and energetic flavours.

Freshness acts as a real unifier in this modern,

compelling Chardonnay.


BV vinarstvi +420 730 595 426

VELKE PAVLOVICE


D CUVÉE 1+1 2018: Deep red with brown

highlights. Delicate smoky oakiness on the nose

with wild flowers and jammy cherry. Aromatic

density, impeccable concentration, velvety

tannins and a finish laced with freshness on the

palate. Sumptuous elegance.




D CH.DOWINA - CARMENERE POZDNÍ

SB?R 2019: Concentrated red with brown

highlights. Nose of wild plants, strong spices,

smoky, ash-like oakiness and stewed black

fruits. Great concentration on the palate where

the aromatic decor is very rich with elegant

oak influence. Tannic finish. A nicely fleshy allrounder.



ZNOJMO

THAYA VINA?STVÍ 95/100

D APRI CHARDONNAY 2018: Brilliant

yellow-gold. Appealing nose offering up

white fruits, honey, creamy and pastry notes.

Rounded, fleshy, concentrated palate with very

delicate perfumes of citrus fruits, subtle oak and

an airy feel. Expresses its origins masterfully.

https://www.vinarstvithaya.cz Price: € 19.50

Thaya vinařství +420 725 995 531


D APRI - CHARDONNAY 2019: Yellow-gold.

Elegant nose offering up a fusion of white fruits,

melon, honey and flower infusion. Expressive

palate with savoury exuberance. Oak influence

is perceptible but does not undermine the fleshy

fruit expression. Ethereal finish for a majestic

Chardonnay.




D PINOT BLANC PREMIUM 2019: Vibrant

pale gold. Intense nose marrying stone

fruits, tobacco, smoke and a mineral accent.

Harmonious, silky, ethereal palate where the

exciting score of intense aromatics shows a

pure, delicate, off-beat style over great length.

Marvellous.



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FRANCE

No holiday season would be complete

without a selection of Champagnes,

including some of the Grands Crus

in our feature report (pages 10 to

28) along with some real treasures

from lesser-known wine areas such

as Aube and the Marne Valley,

and niche bottlings that include

some incredibly appealing mature

vintages.

CHAMPAGNE DRAPPIER 97/100

D BRUT GRANDE SENDRÉE 2012: Clear

golden colour. Superior quality nose blending

pear, biscuit and mineral, saline tones. Silky

texture on the palate and remarkably high

quality expression. On the finish, the fruit

shows an intensity and freshness worthy of the

finest offerings.

http://www.champagne-drappier.com Price: € 62.95

Champagne Drappier +33 3 25 27 40 15

CHAMPAGNE CATTIER 95/100

CR D BRUT 1ER CRU CLOS DU MOULIN:

Bright, glistening light gold. Delicate nose

marrying dried fruits and an elegant biscuit

tone. Expressive, delicate attack with creamy

effervescence and flavours that display

incredible length. An absolute gem.

http://www.cattier.com Price: € 130.00

Champagne Cattier 03 26 03 42 11

CHAMPAGNE COLLARD-PICARD 95/100

CR D EXTRA BRUT ARCHIVES 2012:

Appealing, bright, light gold. Very endearing,

delicate nose marrying fruit, pastry and

toast notes. Fresh attack on the palate with

effective aromas and fullness confirmed by

the effervescence and freshness on the finish.

Remarkable.

http://www.champagnecollardpicard.fr Price: € 165.00

Champagne Collard-Picard +33 3 26 52 36 93

CHAMPAGNE GEORGES VESSELLE 95/100

D BRUT GRAND CRU JULINE: Beautiful

glistening yellow-gold. Rich, expressive nose

accented by candied fruits and sweet spices.

The palate shows textbook concentration and

freshness with more of the seductive nose

aromas enhanced by fullness and length.

http://www.champagne-vesselle.fr Price: € 45.00

Champagne Georges Vesselle +33 3 26 57 00 15

CHAMPAGNE GOSSET

98/100

■ GOSSET CELEBRIS 2008 EXTRA BRUT

D Pretty, light gold. Intense nose sufused with toast

and pastry tones replete with delicacy. The palate starts

of ample, intense and silky, all o which lingers through

to the persistent toast aromatics on the nish. Price: € 175

PRESENTATION: This iconic Gosset label, which

pays homage to Albert Gosset, is only produced in

outstanding vintages which is why this particular

cuvee only has seven predecessors - 1988, 1990, 1995,

1998, 2002, 2004 and 2007. This 2008 Gosset Celebris

is once again the perfect complement to the range –

blended from 54% Chardonnay and 46% Pinot noir,

it has been aged in the company’s cellars for twelve

years, imbuing it - as is customary - with abundant

structure and impeccable maturity. The wine has

exceptional ageability whilst also showing

generosity and tension, enhanced by its Extra Brut

dosage (4.8g/l). This ensures that this outstanding

wine marrying length and complexity will mature

remarkably well.

Tel.: +33 3 26 56 99 56

E-mail: marketing@champagne-gosset.com

Website: http://www.champagne-gosset.com

CHAMPAGNE

BESSERAT DE BELLEFON

95/100

g BRUT VINTAGE RÉSERVE COLLECTION 1986

D Very pretty, glistening golden hue. Very mature nose

accented by candied fruits with an exotic touch of g

and a toast tone. The palate is in ne fettle, bolstered by

faultless freshness. The chiselled nose aromas low

through over remarkable length. Price: € 234

PRESENTATION: Born in 1843 along the banks of the

river Marne in Aÿ, the House has since moved to

Epernay. For nearly two centuries, it has let its mark

on restaurants and prime locations in Paris,

perpetuating a tradition of superior quality by

producing wines destined exclusively for gourmet

foods, the hospitality industry, wine merchants and

delicatessens. Its initials, BB, are synonymous with

French elegance, a certain boldness and a deliberately

independent style. But above all, it holds the promise

of a Champagne whose bubbles are 30% ner than a

conventional label. Liberty, elegance and simplicity are

the values it champions for future generations.

Tel.: +33 3 26 78 52 16

E-mail: info@besseratdebellefon.com

Website: www.besseratdebellefon.com

WINTER 2022 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

119

FRANCE - CHAMPAGNE



en page 1 02/12/2022 17:23

CHAMPAGNE INFINITE EIGHT 94/100

D BRUT RÉSERVE SKULL EDITION: Beautiful

glistening gold. Very mature nose accented

by gingerbread, dried herbs and sweet spices.

The palate is very soft with more of the same

deliciously mature aromas. A mouthfilling,

seductive Champagne that should be saved for

the finest delicacies.

Price: € 44.20

Champagne Infinite Eight +33 6 08 61 53 41

CHAMPAGNE JEAN VESSELLE 93/100

CONV D BRUT NATURE BLANC DE BLANCS

GRAND CRU B3 2014: Lovely bright, light gold.

Delicate nose showing floral notes, white fruits

and a toast touch. The palate displays a real

persona, assertive weight and aromas that gain

in intensity through to the finish. A Champagne

that is both novel and distinctive.

http://www.champagnejeanvesselle.fr Price: € 87.00

Champagne Jean Vesselle +33 3 26 57 01 55

CHAMPAGNE COLLET

93/100

g BRUT GRAND CRU COLLECTION PRIVÉE AŸ

VINTAGE 2012

D Glistening yellow-gold. Intense nose of red berry

fruits, bordering on heady. The palate is ample, complete

and vinous with more of the same intense aromas. A

food-friendly Champagne pairing with duck breast.

Price: € 87

PRESENTATION: Since 1921, Champagne Collet has

been producing Champagnes that honour the

craftsmanship o its partner vineyard owners. The

extensive diversity and quality o its vineyard sites

enable Champagne Collet to grace the nest tables.

The 2012 Grand Cru Aÿ Collection Privée label, partially

ermented in oak casks, is made rom our Grand Cru

classied Pinot Noir vineyard in Aÿ. The elegant, ruity,

mature, rich and powerul 2012 vintage is considered

to be one o the decade’s top vintages.

Only 6,100 bottles were released.

Tel.: +33 3 26 55 15 88

E-mail: info@champagne-collet.com

Website: http://www.champagne-collet.com

CHAMPAGNE GUY CHARBAUT

93/100

g BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 1ER CRU

MEMORY 2006

D Beautiful yellow-gold. Delicate nose showing ethereal

loral and lemony tones. The texture on the palate

is incredibly silky and remarkably full, all of which

meshes with substantial aromatic persistency in this

Champagne for gourmet foods. Price: € 52.70

PRESENTATION: The Guy Charbaut family have been

winegrowers from father to son for three generations,

maintaining the signature style of their Champagne

House and perpetuating both their prestigious name

and quality oferings. In the winery, Xavier Charbaut

reduces dosage to produce ner Champagnes and lets

his wines age peacefully on the lees to maximise

development of aromas and complexity. He is the

custodian of the house blend style and promotes

environmentally-friendly practices on the estate by

advocating sustainable winegrowing techniques

certied ‘Viticulture Durable en Champagne’ and High

Environmental Value (HVE level 3).

Tel.: +33 3 26 52 60 59

E-mail: contact@champagne-guy-charbaut.com

Website: http://www.champagne-guy-charbaut.com

CHAMPAGNE JEEPER 93/100

D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS GRANDE

RÉSERVE: Brilliant, clear yellow-gold. Very

compelling nose of ripe apple and pear with a

touch of white flowers and hazelnut. Creamy,

ample attack on the palate with intense

aromatics mirroring the chiselled nose aromas.

Incredible length!

http://www.champagne-jeeper.fr - http://www.

champagne-francois-dubois.com Price: € 55.00

Les Domaines Jeeper +33 3 26 05 08 98

CHAMPAGNE OLIVIER BONVILLE 93/100

HVE D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND

CRU ODYSSÉE 319: Light gold. Very delicate

nose where fruit becomes more intense, with

white peach, apple and pear tones. Very creamy

texture on the palate which is very mouthfilling.

The finish is persistent, voluptuous and

fresh. This is art at its finest.

http://www.champagne-franck-bonville.

com Price: € 31.00

Champagne Olivier Bonville +33 3 26 57 52 30

CHAMPAGNE SOUTIRAN 93/100

D BRUT GRAND CRU M 2015: Beautiful

glistening yellow-gold. Compelling nose

showing ripe white fruit tones, dried herbs and

a pastry touch. Nicely delineated attack with

fruit, tension and intensity. The wide array of

nose aromas flows through. Superb.

http://www.soutiran.com Price: € 54.00

Champagne Soutiran +33 3 26 57 07 87

CHAMPAGNE CANARD-DUCHÊNE 92/100

D BRUT NATURE V 2012: Beautiful pale

gold. Open nose accented by dried herbs, dried

straw and super ripe fruits. The palate stays

beautifully tense and aromas are impeccably


FRANCE - CHAMPAGNE


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showcased with a fresh, persistent feel. This is a

Champagne for gourmet food.

http://www.canard-duchene.fr Price: € 65.00

Champagne Canard-Duchêne +33 3 26 61 11 60

CHAMPAGNE FREREJEAN FRÈRES 92/100

D EXTRA BRUT 1ER CRU CUVÉE DES

HUSSARDS 2012: Yellow-gold. Ultra ripe nose

accented by candied fruits and undergrowth.

Beautiful fleshy, silky attack on the palate

flowing into a very perfumed middle palate

accented by hazelnut. Drink as a food-friendly

Champagne for fish.

https://frerejeanfreres.com/ Price: € 190.00

Champagne Frerejean Frères +33 1 80 50 20 03

CHAMPAGNE G. TRIBAUT 92/100

D BRUT 1ER CRU GRANDE CUVÉE

SPÉCIALE: Beautiful pale yellow. Delicate nose

of white fruits coupled with an elegant biscuit

tone. Very pure palate where the fresh attack

showcases the chiselled aromas. Delicate

toasted, persistent finish.

https://champagne-tribaut-hautvillers.com/fr/ Price: € 25.70

Champagne G. Tribaut 03 26 59 40 57

CHAMPAGNE LAURENT LEQUART 92/100

HVE D EXTRA BRUT 2015: Lovely golden

hue. Subtle nose which is floral on first pour

then flows into subtle pastry and toast tones. A

real sense of fulfilment comes through on the

palate, which is very silky, fresh and expressive.

The finish is mouth-filling, persistent and

delicate. Gold standard.

http://www.champagne-lequart.fr Price: € 65.00

Champagne Laurent Lequart +33 3 26 58 97 48

CHAMPAGNE LOMBARD 92/100

D BRUT NATURE GRAND CRU LE MESNIL

SUR OGER: Clear, light gold. Delicate nose

of white flowers and biscuit. Lively at point of

entry yet also very well-balanced and showcasing

lovely flavours underscored by a saline touch. A

Champagne that offers a vibrant rendition of its

terroir.

http://www.champagne-lombard.com Price: € 58.00

Champagne Lombard +33 3 26 59 57 40

CHAMPAGNE MARCELLIN BEAUFORT 92/100

D EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU - MARCELLIN:

Beautiful bright yellow-gold. Pleasant fruity

nose coupled with a biscuit tone. The palate is

energetic, fleshy and perfumed. Tension flows

through to the finish and supports aromas

over substantial length. This is a chiselled

Champagne that works best with food.

Price: € 26.55

La Commanderie Diffusion +33 6 07 10 91 18

CHAMPAGNE MAURICE VESSELLE 92/100

D EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU 2012: Lovely

clear, golden hue. Very pure, fruity nose

combining cherry, fig and lots of freshness.

The palate is very clean and gifted with lovely

tension. The same, very appealing mineral and

fruity characters recur on the finish.

http://www.champagnemauricevesselle.com Price: € 39.00

Champagne Maurice Vesselle +33 3 26 57 00 81

CHAMPAGNE MICHEL ARNOULD & FILS 92/100

D EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU TERRE DE

BLANCS 2017: Pale gold. Nose of white fruits

with toast tones after swirling the glass. Lovely

textured, very silky, expressive, fresh palate.

Long fruity finish enhanced by toast notes.

http://www.champagne-michel-arnould.com Price: € 38.00

Champagne Michel Arnould & Fils +33 3 26 49 40 06

CHAMPAGNE P. LANCELOT-ROYER 92/100

D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU

CUVÉE DES CHEVALIERS: Beautiful vibrant

yellow-gold. The nose is intense yet delicate,

with fruity notes entwined with pastries and

fresh hazelnut. The palate is ample, silky and

delicate and offers up great quality aromatics. A

Champagne with a sense of fulfilment.

Price: € 25.00

Champagne P. Lancelot-Royer +33 3 26 57 51 41

CHAMPAGNE PAUL DÉTHUNE 92/100

CONV D EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU BLANC

DE NOIRS: Beautiful, brilliant yellow-gold.

Super ripe nose showing tones of ripe plum and

fig. The palate is fleshy, silky and expressive.

This is a dense, vinous Champagne designed

more for food.

http://www.champagne-dethune.com Price: € 56.00

Champagne Paul Déthune +33 3 26 57 01 88

CHAMPAGNE LAURIANNE LEJOUR 91/100

CR D BRUT GRAND CRU: Beautiful yellowgold

with amber highlights. Delicate nose

marrying red and white berry fruit tones. Great

tension, elegance, chiselled aromas and a finish

that stays fresh and persistent on the palate in

this food-friendly Champagne.

Price: € 32.00

Champagne Laurianne Lejour +33 6 64 42 99 08

CHAMPAGNE VIGNON PÈRE & FILS 91/100

CR D EXTRA BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS

ROCHELLES-POTENCES 2018: Appealing

pale gold with green tints. Clean, delicate nose

scented with white flowers and almonds. The

palate is fresh and silky yet with racy expression.

The finish is gratifying with delightful notes of

hazelnut and almond. Superb!

https://www.champagne-vignon.com/fr/ Price: € 36.00

Champagne Vignon Père & Fils +33 3 26 49 80 39

CHAMPAGNE CHARLES ELLNER

92/100

g BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS

D Bright, brilliant light gold. Delicate nose where

accents of white lowers are entwined with biscuit tones.

Distinctive attack on the palate. A leshy, aromatic

Champagne underpinned by a very elegant saline edge.

A Chardonnay for gourmet foods. Price: € 25

PRESENTATION: Founded in 1905 by Charles-Emile

Ellner, the House is still family-run. Pierre Ellner

perpetuated the work of his father by establishing the

foundations for quality which lend the brand its excellent

image. His four sons – Jacques, Michel, Jean-Pierre and

Philippe – took over the reins with the same spirit. Today,

Jean-Pierre and his wife manage the company with the

help of the fourth generation. Emmanuelle and Alexandra

handle marketing, communications and administrative

tasks whilst Frédéric and Arnaud manage the vineyards

and work in the winery. Together, they are bringing change

to the company so that it can cope with the demands of

present-day markets, modernising the facilities in Epernay

whilst safeguarding tradition and the family spirit.

Tel.: +33 3 26 55 60 25

E-mail: info@champagne-ellner.com

Website: http://www.champagne-ellner.com


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CHAMPAGE COSSY 90/100

CR D EXTRA BRUT ORIGINE: Brilliant

yellow-gold. Very pure, fruity nose showing

white peach and pear tones. Very clean attack

brimming with freshness and aroma. This is an

appetising, aromatic and persistent Champagne

for an elaborate buffet.

http://www.champagne-cossy.com Price: € 30.00

Champagne F Cossy +33 3 26 49 75 56

CHAMPAGNE CHARLES COQUET 90/100

D BRUT GRAND CRU L’ELÉGANT: Beautiful

light gold. Spring-like nose that is floral on first

pour then flows into ripe white fruit tones. Very

clean attack on the palate with wonderful fruit

purity and an appetising saline touch on the

finish.

Price: € 36.00

Champagne Charles Coquet +33 3 26 57 07 87

CHAMPAGNE CHARLES GARDET 90/100

Flore and Francine (right) at the helm

of the Aÿ-based company.

CHAMPAGNE DAUBY:

AN UNWAVERING

COMMITMENT

PORTRAIT: This house has a privileged location in the

historic birthplace of the nest Champagnes, in Aÿ-

Champagne. Owning 8 hectares of vines, 60% of them

Pinot noir with a balance of Chardonnay, across 5

villages including one classied as Grand Cru and three

as Premiers Crus, it controls every stage of

winegrowing, from planting to harvesting, thereby

guaranteeing the provenance of its wines. It sets great

store by marketing rare, authentic and even unique

labels that align with its determination to preserve

nature, through its commitment to environmental

traceability, zero pesticides and converting all of its

Chardonnay vines over to organic.

Tel.: +33 3 26 54 96 49

E-mail: champagne.dauby@orange.fr

Website: https://champagne-dauby.fr/

CHAMPAGNE DOM CAUDRON

90/100

■ BRUT CORNALYNE

D Appealing, light gold. Delicate nose showing floral

tones and ripe white ruits. Beautiully textured palate

with lots o nesse and silkiness. Exuberance shows

through a little more on the nish. A generous Champagne

with excellent balance.

Price: € 35.90

PRESENTATION : Champagne Dom Caudron was

founded in 1929. With complete control over

production, from the vineyard to the wine glass, it now

boasts 90 winegrowers who produce terroir-driven

Champagne crated from 130 hectares under vine

located across the hillsides of the Marne Valley around

Passy-Grigny. Pinot Meunier is the iconic grape variety

in this western part of Champagne and accounts for

80% of acreage. The vineyard sites of Passy-Grigny,

which are perfectly suited to this varietal, naturally

favoured the production of Blanc de Noirs, allowing

Pinot Meunier to fully reveal its roundness and intense

fruitiness, creating the perfect match for the Dom

Caudron style.

Tel.: +33 3 26 52 45 17

E-mail: champagne@domcaudron.fr

Website: http://www.domcaudron.fr

D BRUT PRESTIGE 2006: Beautiful yellowgold.

Very mature nose with dried herb and

artichoke accents. More of the same, very ripe

aromatics on the palate which nevertheless

shows an appealing sheen, balance and length. A

Champagne that will gradually reveal itself and

pairs with foie gras.

http://www.champagne-gardet.com Price: € 62.00

Champagne Gardet +33 3 26 03 42 03

CHAMPAGNE DAUBY 90/100

HVE D BRUT 1ER CRU MÈRE ET FILLE

2014: Very appealing yellow-gold. Pleasant,

expressive nose with floral and pastry tones. The

palate is very full right from the start with very

soft effervescence and sustained freshness. A

Champagne that is in great shape.

https://champagne-dauby.fr/ Price: € 35.00

Champagne Dauby +33 3 26 54 96 49

CHAMPAGNE DE SAINT-GALL 90/100

CONV D BRUT GRAND CRU SO DARK

2015: Beautiful light gold. Pleasant nose where

fruit tones are entwined with a toast touch. The

palate is fleshy and very lush and fresh. The fruit

aromas are very user-friendly and prevail right

through to the finish.

http://www.de-saint-gall.com Price: € 38.00

Champagne de Saint-Gall +33 3 26 57 94 22

CHAMPAGNE DENIS BOVIÈRE 90/100

CONV D BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS GRAND

CRU: Beautiful brilliant yellow-gold. Elegant

nose of red berry fruits with a biscuit touch after

airing. The palate is dense and fleshy at point of

entry then leads into a vinous mid-palate. The

aromas are precise and quite persistent. A foodfriendly

Champagne for poultry.

Price: € 20.70

Champagne Denis Bovière +33 3 26 49 43 40


FRANCE - CHAMPAGNE


VERZENAY BETWEEN THE LIGHTHOUSE AND THE WINDMILL (CHAMPAGNE MICHEL ARNOULD & FILS)

CHAMPAGNE GUY DUMANGIN 90/100

CR D BRUT 1ER CRU 2014: Beautiful pale

gold. Ultra ripe nose accented by cherries

coupled with a pastry tone. Mature, almost

jammy palate. Freshness supports aromas over

substantial length. Drink with sweetbreads.

Price: € 22.00

Champagne Guy Dumangin +33 3 26 03 46 25

CHAMPAGNE JACQUINET-DUMEZ 90/100

CR D EXTRA BRUT 1ER CRU LUMINISTE:

Beautiful, very bright, light gold. Expressive

nose showing red berry fruits. Lovely clean palate

with unquestionably good quality freshness and

fruit. The finish is persistent, saline and very

distinctive.

http://www.champagne-jacquinet-dumez.com Price: € 27.00

Champagne Jacquinet-Dumez +33 3 26 36 25 25

CHAMPAGNE KONRAT 90/100

HVE D VELOURS: Light gold. The nose shows

contrasting aromas of ripe fruits and slightly

bitter herbal notes. The palate is soft and

displays great balance with fruit aromas framed

by sugar. This is a very novel style that works

best towards the end of the evening.

Price: € 138.70

Champagne Konrat +33 6 45 58 71 76

CHAMPAGNE LEGRAS-FRAPART & FILS 90/100

D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU

CUVÉE HARMONIE: Vibrant yellow-gold. The

nose is very endearing and expressive, with a

fusion of white fruit tones and fresh hazelnut.

The palate is creamy with more of the same

seductive aromas and tension that extends the

finish. Beautiful.

https://www.champagne-legras-frapart.com Price: € 20.00

Champagne Legras-Frapart & Fils +33 6 29 23 87 48

CHAMPAGNE PAUL SADI 90/100

CR D BRUT GRAND CRU BELLUS MONS

2017: Beautiful light gold. Alluring nose where

fruit entwines with a pastry tone. Great richness

on the palate is supported by freshness. The very

pleasant ripe, tangy flavours are sustained over

great length.

https://www.champagne-paul-sadi.fr/ Price: € 44.00

Champagne Paul Sadi +33 3 26 40 25 18

CHAMPAGNE TAISNE RIOCOUR 90/100

HVE D BRUT GRANDE RÉSERVE: Beautiful

pale gold. Perky fruity nose with a biscuit tone

bordering on pastry in the background. The

palate is nicely balanced and combines freshness

and vinosity. The fruit gradually establishes

itself and fills the finish over great length.

Price: € 28.50

Champagne Taisne Riocour +33 3 25 29 64 37

CHAMPAGNE VERRIER & FILS 90/100

HVE D BRUT FLEURON: Beautiful bright

yellow-gold. Rich nose marrying white fruits

and a pastry tone. The palate is mature and

offers up great tension and elegant aromas with

a perceptible toast tone. A Champage for food.

Price: € 20.60

Champagne Verrier & Fils +33 3 26 59 32 42


123

GERMANY - MOSEL


GERMANY

There is no doubting the fact that

Germany has long been a wine

producing country, just like any

region to which the Romans travelled.

But volumes are comparatively

low and few wines are exported.

Despite this, Germany produces

some interesting wines, particularly

whites, including a high proportion

of organic offerings.

MOSEL

MOSEL ALL SUB-REGIONS

PROPSTEI EBERNACH 89/100

D TROCKEN - RIESLING FEINHERB 2020

ttps://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einig-zenzen.html Price: € 5.99

Einig-Zenzen GmbH +49 2653 9907 24

PFALZ

PFALZ ALL SUB-REGIONS

RUPPERTSBERGER WEINKELLER 91/100

D VON WALLBERG RIESLING 2021: Golden

yellow. Profound, enticing nose combining

candied fruits and a mineral, saline edge.

Great presence on the palate. A crisp, fleshy

Riesling with more of the minerality and salinity

enhancing the fruit.

https://www.ruppertsberger.de/ Price: € 14.95

Ruppertsberger Weinkeller Hoheburg eG +49 6326962970

STUDIER 90/100

ORG D DEIDESHEIMER LETTEN 2021:

Lemon-yellow. The nose delivers multiple fresh

fruit aromas with peaches, citrus and green

fruits. The customary charm of Riesling is here,

with superb freshness, exuberance and precisely

defined fruit flavours. The finish is palatable

and balanced.

https://weingut-studier.de/ Price: € 8.90

Weingut Studier +49 6237 977 280

WEINGUT-SCHOENLAUB 90/100

D VON MUSKATELLER 2021: Brilliant light

yellow-gold. Appealing nose blending grape,

pineapple and peach. Ethereal palate lifted

by deliciously crisp freshness which offers

generous support to the delightful flavours.

Subtle sweetness adds to the charm. Certainly

won us over!

https://weingut-schoenlaub.de/en/ Price: € 12.90

Weingut-Schoenlaub +49 6343 8142

WEINGUT-SCHOENLAUB 90/100

D TAYEN 2012: Deep garnet with bricking.

Generous nose unfurling morello cherry, plum,

fine spices, liquorice and tar. Nervy, ample

palate with a broad-ranging line-up of mature

aromatics showing delicious intensity and

purity. Pairs with small game.

https://weingut-schoenlaub.de/en/ Price: € 15.10

Weingut-Schoenlaub +49 6343 8142

YOKO 90/100

D RIESLING 2021: Brilliant, eye-catching

golden yellow. Good characteristic nose

combining grapes and an elegant mineral

dimension. Same flavours on the palate which

shows textbook proportions and great aromatic

personality.

Price: € 13.00

Anora +358 40 767 0867

STUDIER 88/100

ORG D WEISSBURGUNDER 2021

https://weingut-studier.de/ Price: € 9.90

Weingut Studier +49 6237 977 280

RHEINGAU

RHEINGAU ALL SUB-REGIONS

MOHR 93/100

ORG D RIESLING BODENTAL-STEINBERG

2019: Beautiful brilliant straw-yellow. The

nose is very complex with a harmonious

fusion of ripe white fruit notes and an intense

mineral backbone. The palate is very complex

and perfumed and displays outstanding acid

balance. A consummate offering.

http://www.weingut-mohr.de Price: € 32.00

Weingut Mohr +49 06726 94 84

MOHR 92/100

ORG D LORCHER SCHLOSSBERG RIESLING

34 2020: Beautiful pale yellow with light green

tints. Expressive nose with petrol-like accents

melded with a pleasant fruity edge. The palate

opens up to a tense, mineral style which is very

pared-down and shows great typicity. A classic.


Weingut Mohr +49 06726 94 84

MOHR 92/100

ORG D LORCHER SCHLOSSBERG -

RIESLING EISWEIN 2020: Beautiful brilliant

pale yellow. Intense, concentrated, racy nose

reminiscent of raisins and sweet spices. Very

harmoniously balanced fat and acidity on the

palate usher in a finish showing top-flight

aromas.


Weingut Mohr +49 06726 94 84

RHEINHESSEN

RHEINHESSEN ALL SUB-REGIONS

EINIG-ZENZEN 90/100

D MARIENGOLD ICE - AUSLESE -

PREDICATE WINE - 37,5 CL : Very pretty old

gold with coppery highlights. Concentrated nose

recalling fruit paste and rhubarb. The palate is

very dense with jammy fruit aromatics showing

very pleasant quince and rhubarb accents. Well

worth trying.

https://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einig-zenzen.html Price: € 9.99

Einig-Zenzen GmbH +49 2653 9907 24

HOMBURGER KALLMUTH IN FRANCONIA, TERRASSED PLOTS OVERLOOKING THE RIVER MAIN.

MATTHIAS NESKE


ITALY - ROMAGNA D.O.C. SANGIOVESE RISERVA DI BERTINORO


ITALY

Italy is a major wine producing

country, both for its extensive

vineyard acreage and its skilfully

crafted wines. It is also one of Europe

and the world’s leading countries for

organic and biodynamic wines. We

round off our tour of Italy with two

regions that are still fairly underthe-radar

but are home to some real

gems that should be explored without

further ado – Umbria and Emilia-

Romagna.

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

ALBANA DI ROMAGNA D.O.C.

I CROPPI 90/100

ORG D ALBANA 2021: Brilliant strawyellow.

Endearing nose revealing peach, yellow

fruits, an exotic tone and acacia. The palate is

ample, plump and fresh with fruit augmented

by a touch of salinity. Spice and citrus fruit

notes then bolster the range of flavours in this

successful wine.

http://www.celli-vini.com Price: € 9.00

Celli Vini +39 0543 445 183

EMILIA I.G.T.

ALBINEA CANALI 91/100

CR D EXTRA DRY OTTOCENTOROSA :

Beautiful intense salmon. Captivating nose

marrying violets and red berry fruits. The

palate displays impressive intensity, persistent

aromatics and a very elegant, carefully etched

backbone. Effervescence is nicely framed. Great

craftsmanship.

http://www.riunite.it Price: € 7.50

Cantine Riunite & CIV Sca +39 0522 90 5711

FORLI I.G.T.

LA PALAZZA 91/100

ORG D LILLYBETH - VEGAN 2021: Deep

garnet with ruby highlights. Nose of stone fruits,

hot spice, liquorice, tar. Impressively dense

palate, very flavoursome. Warm attack then

develops a more supple feel with fresh tannin,

and focuses gently on the fruit at the end.

http://www.dreidona.it Price: € 10.00

Drei Dona’ Tenuta La Palazza +39 0543 769 371

LA PALAZZA 90/100

ORG D IL TORNESE - LE ORIGINI 2020:

Vibrant light yellow. Racy nose combining white

fruits with buttery and floral notes. Seductively

moreish fullness on the palate framed by bold

freshness and pure, focused, intense aromas

enhanced by a trace of sweetness and a spicy

finish.



LAMBRUSCO DI MODENA D.O.C.

CANTINE RIUNITE 88/100

CR D DRY RIGHI

http://www.riunite.it Price: € 5.50

Cantine Riunite & CIV Sca +39 0522 90 5711

LAMBRUSCO GRASPAROSSA

DI CASTELVETRO D.O.C

CANTINA SETTECANI DI CASTELVETRO 90/100

ORG D SECCO BIOLOGICO : Beautiful light

red with purple-blue. Subdued nose of red fruits.

The palate is very intense with gorgeous fruit

and effervescence which adds freshness. The

finish is long, fruit-forward and very focused.

http://www.cantinasettecani.it Price: € 9.00

Cantina Settecani-Castelvetro SAC +39 059 702 505

CANTINA SETTECANI DI CASTELVETRO 88/100

ORG D AMABILE SWEET

http://www.cantinasettecani.it Price: € 6.00

Cantina Settecani-Castelvetro SAC +39 0597 02 505

TENUTA PEDERZANA 88/100

ORG D PUNTAMORA 2020

http:// Price: € 14.30

Tenuta Pederzana +39 347 785 7397

LAMBRUSCO SALAMINO DI

SANTA CROCE D.O.C.

CANTINA DI SANTA CROCE 89/100

ORG D IL PRIMO 2021

http://www.cantinasantacroce.it Price: € 5.28

Cantina di Santa Croce +39 0596 64 007

REGGIANO D.O.C

MEDICI ERMETE 90/100

ORG D CONCERTO 2021: Deeply coloured

with young purple-blue tints. Very appealing

nose combining perfumes of blackberry, crisp

red and black fruits and blackcurrant bud. The

palate is fine and offers up a pleasant frothy

texture that leaves the fruit all the room it needs

to express itself.

http://www.medici.it Price: € 20.00

Medici Ermete & Figli +39 0522 94 21 35

MEDICI ERMETE 86/100

CR D QUERCIOLI

http://www.medici.it Price: € 15.00

Medici Ermete & Figli +39 0522 94 21 35

ROMAGNA ALBANA D.O.C.G.

CELLI 94/100

CONV D SOLARA ALBANA PASSIO 50 CL

2018: Beautiful brilliant old gold. Captivating

nose combining tropical fruits, vanilla, honey

and candied notes. Fleshy, concentrated, lush

palate invigorated by subtle freshness and a

saline touch. Magnificently gentle flavours in

this marvellous wine.


Celli Vini +39 0543 445 183

AZIENDA AGRICOLA BRANCHINI 89/100

CR D DUTIA 2021

http://www.branchini1858.it/ Price: € 9.00

Azienda Agricola Branchini +39 0542 53 778

ROMAGNA D.O.C.

SANGIOVESE DI PREDAPPIO

LA PALAZZA 93/100

ORG D NOTTURNO 2020: Concentrated

appearance with ruby glints. Attractive nose

of stone fruits, spice, vanilla and sun-warmed

stone. Irresistible on the palate for its density

and explosive sun-drenched flavours. Perfect

tannic extraction giving sweetness and minty

freshness.



SAN JOVES 88/100

CONV D 2018

https://www.sadivino.com/ Price: € 12.00

SaDiVino +39 3665 949 948

ROMAGNA D.O.C. SANGIOVESE

RISERVA DI BERTINORO

CELLI 91/100

ORG D BRON RUSEVAL 2018: Intense

garnet. Expressive nose revealing sour cherry,

plum and a touch of maquis and spice. Fresh,

juicy palate with an elegant profile and mature,

well-defined aromas. Delicately spicy finish

with silky tannins. A convincing wine.


Celli Vini +39 0543 445 183


125

ITALY - ROMAGNA D.O.C. SANGIOVESE SUPERIORE


ROMAGNA D.O.C.

SANGIOVESE SUPERIORE

SIMONA’ 86/100

CONV D 2019

https://www.sadivino.com/ Price: € 10.00

SaDiVino +39 3665 949 948

RUBICONE I.G.T.

AMARACMAND 92/100

ORG D IMPERFETTO 2019: Cherry-red with

garnet-brown tints. Menthol, oaky nose with

notes of cedar, stone fruits and wild herbs. Very

supple, delicately textured palate. Well-balanced

fruit and oak flavours offer up a tannin rebound

on the finish in this graceful Sangiovese.

https://www.amaracmand.com/it/ Price: € 30.00

Amaracmand +39 33 92 437 627

AMARACMAND 90/100

ORG D ONICA 2019: Medium intense

colour with garnet-brown tints. Jammy cherries,

plums and blackberries on the nose with smoky,

ash-like undertones. Supple palate revolving

around a delicate mouthfeel and polished

tannins. Moreish, expressive fruit. A charming

wine for a romantic evening.

https://www.amaracmand.com/it/ Price: € 25.00

Amaracmand +39 33 92 437 627

VINO SPUMANTE DI QUALITÀ

AZIENDA AGRICOLA BRANCHINI 90/100

CR D BRUT 1858 : Vibrant pale hue with

generous mousse. Elegant nose where yellow

plum fuses with spring-like scents. The palate is

ethereal with a crisp, intense aromatic spectrum

of grapefruit and salinity driven by harmonious

effervescence. Makes a great aperitif-style wine.

http://www.branchini1858.it/ Price: € 17.90

Azienda Agricola Branchini +39 0542 53 778

UMBRIA

MONTEFALCO D.O.C.

LA VENERANDA 92/100

CR D 2020: Pale colour with mature

highlights. Fine vanilla-like nose with notes of

fresh cherries and blackcurrants, sweet spices

and mint. Solid, dense palate with a promising

fleshy feel. Well-established fruit is underscored

by racy tannins. Shows obvious potential.

http://www.laveneranda.com/en/ Price: € 12.50

La Veneranda +39 3510 777 219

ARNALDO CAPRAI 90/100

CR D RISERVA 2018: Deep red with brown

reflections. Nose of undergrowth, fig, stone

fruits and sweet spices. The palate offers up a

woodland walk with pine forest aromas. Heat,

intensity, spices and powerful tannins lend this

wine real southern characters.

http://www.arnaldocaprai.it Price: € 23.00

Arnaldo Caprai +39 0742 378 802


CR D VIGNA FLAMINIA MAREMMANA 2019



MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO

D.O.C.G.

ANTONELLI 94/100

ORG D MOLINO DELL’ATTONE 2015:

Concentrated red tinged with garnet-brown.

Nose of stewed stone fruits, tobacco and

mushroom with an animal feel. Generous palate

with dense tannins, sun-ripened fruit and

complex herbal and undergrowth aromatics.

This is a wine with plenty of surprises still in

store.

http://www.antonellisanmarco.it Price: € 40.00

Antonelli San Marco +39 0742 379 158

IL GHEPPIO 94/100

CR D IL DOMENICALE 2015: Dark garnet

with bricking. Endearing nose offering up

a blend of black stone fruits, blackcurrant,

liquorice, menthol and herbal notes. Fullbodied,

heady palate revealing a broad range

of mature aromatics. A profound, dense wine

showing superb authenticity. Pairs with game.

http://www.cantineilgheppio.it Price: € 50.00

Il Gheppio +39 3382 935 029

THE BRANCHINI 1858 COMPANY BLENDS TRADITION AND MODERNITY, WITH A SUSTAINABLE AND RESPECTFUL VISION OF THE TERRITORY.


ITALY - UMBRIA I.G.T.


IL GHEPPIO 90/100

CR D A STEFANO 2015: Deep garnet with

amber tints. Generous nose with red fruits,

cherries, dried herbs and oak. Ample, structured

palate which wraps its flavours in a touch of

sweetness. Dense and firm with lots of energy

and a lovely traditional herbal finish.

http://www.cantineilgheppio.it Price: € 24.00

Il Gheppio +39 3382 935 029

MONTIONI 90/100

CONV D SAGRANTINO 2016: Intense

garnet starting to mature. Shy nose opening

up after airing to morello cherry, spice, dried

fruit and menthol notes with subtle oak. Heady,

powerful palate with fiery aromas. Still firm,

fresh and at its peak. Pairs with game.

http://www.gabrielemontioni.it Price: € 22.00

Azienda Agricola Montioni +39 0742 379 214

A TYPICAL AUTUMNAL LANDSCAPE OF MONTEFALCO WITH ITS ROLLING HILLS OF VINEYARDS

(UMBRIA)


CR D 25 ANNI 2016: Concentrated garnet

with brown reflections. Mature nose exuding

a blend of leather, undergrowth, cinnamon,

stone fruits and condiments. Powerful, dense

palate with nicely integrated, bold tannins.

Fruit couples with gamey notes in this beautiful

terroir-driven wine.



LA VENERANDA 93/100

CR D 2018: Concentrated colour with brown

highlights. A delicate smoky vanilla backbone

meshes with jammy forest fruits, strong spices

and wild plants on the nose. The palate displays

a solid tannin core with irresistible fruit density

and a slender fleshy feel. Extensive ageability is

guaranteed.

http://www.laveneranda.com/en/ Price: € 25.00

La Veneranda +39 3510 777 219

MONTIONI 93/100

CONV D MA.GIA 2016: Deep garnet with

bricking. Beautiful exotic nose marrying spices,

liquorice, eucalyptus and a touch of maquis with

fruit undertones. Silky attack then a full-bodied,

virile, dense palate showing seductive precision

and generous proportions. A top-flight wine.

http://www.gabrielemontioni.it Price: € 50.00

Azienda Agricola Montioni +39 0742 379 214

ANTONELLI 92/100

ORG D CHIUSA DI PANNONE 2015: Fairly

deep red with garnet-brown tints. Ripe nose

intermixing stewed black fruits, smoky notes

and exotic wood. Tight-knit tannin structure

imposing mature fruity and herbal aromas. A

concentrated wine with ambitious ageability.

http://www.antonellisanmarco.it Price: € 32.00

Antonelli San Marco +39 0742 379 158

LE CIMATE 92/100

CR D DONNA GIULLIA 2015: Deep garnet

with bricking. Exotic nose revealing black fruits,

menthol, spices and maquis perfumes. The

palate is velvety, powerful and deep with feisty,

balanced southern aromas and substantial

freshness. Reaching its peak. Superb.

http://www.lecimate.it Price: € 60.00

Le Cimate +39 3483 852 165


ORG D COLLEPIANO 2017: Deep garnet

with bricking. Expressive nose revealing red

fruits, spices, tobacco, menthol and a lovely

floral accent. The same complex aromatic

spectrum carries over to the palate, enhanced

by substantial freshness and traditional herbal

aromatics. A successful wine.



BOCALE 91/100

CONV D 2017: Intense garnet. Generous

nose marrying strawberry, raspberry, mixed

spice and fern with menthol and mocha touches.

The palate is certainly not sparing on the

aromatics, with complex, mature flavours that

ease into lovely sourness and a traditional herbal

touch.

http://www.bocale.it Price: € 23.00

Azienda Agricola Bocale +39 0742 399 233

ORVIETO CLASSICO D.O.C.

SUPERIORE

CANTINA LAPONE 90/100

CR D L’ESCLUSO 2020: Light yellow-gold

with pale green tints. Nose of white fruits and

citrus with balsamic, menthol touches. Clean,

tense, fruit-forward palate, echoing the nose

and revealing elegant sourness on the finish.

Pairs with shellfish or goat’s cheeses.

Price: € 23.00

Cantina Lapone +39 3475 472 898

SPOLETO D.O.C.

BOCALE 89/100

CONV D 2021

http://www.bocale.it Price: € 10.00

Azienda Agricola Bocale +39 0742 399 233

UMBRIA I.G.T.

CANTINA LAPONE 90/100

CR D L’INCLUSO 2020: Bright red with

crimson tints. Expressive nose combining

plum, spices, a touch of raspberry and oaky

undertones. Welcome freshness drives the

youthful aromas of the wine on the palate, which

expresses itself naturally and elegantly. Needs

more time.

http:// Price: € 25.00

Cantina Lapone +39 3475 472 898

OLUMBRA 87/100

CR D 2020

Price: € 10.90

Mevante +39 349 805 7501


127

SOUTH AFRICA - WESTERN CAPE


SOUTH AFRICA

The Breede River Valley is set within

a landscape that makes it one of the

Western Cape’s most highly prized

locations for growing wine. Vines

thrive in its Mediterranean climate,

whose distinctive seasons shape

wines with a strong personality.

WESTERN CAPE

WESTERN CAPE

BALANCE 88/100

D CAT MUSCAT 2022

http://www.overhex.com Price: € 3.00

Overhex Wines +27 23 347 6838

THE WILD WOMAN 87/100

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022

Price: € 7.00

Opstal Estate +27 23 344-3001

LAND’S END 86/100


http://www.dutoitskloof.co.za Price: € 3.00

Du Toitskloof Wines +27 23 349 1601

DU TOITSKLOOF 85/100

D MERLOT 2020



WESTERN CAPE - BREEDE

RIVER VALLEY

BONNIEVALE

BONNIEVALE 89/100

D LIMITED RELEASE CABERNET

SAUVIGNON 2020

http://www.bonnievalewines.co.za/ Price: € 8.69

Bonnievale +27 23 616 2795

BONNIEVALE 88/100

D THE RIVER COLLECTION SAUVIGNON

BLANC 2022

http://www.bonnievalewines.co.za/ Price: € 3.67

Bonnievale +27 23 616 2795

BREEDEKLOOF

SILKBUSH 91/100

D ALTITUDE 2019: Ruby garnet. Leather and

spice on the developed nose. Dried fruit and

prunes on the leathery palate with a mature, but

still youthful mid-palate and a rich aftertaste.

Layered and complex. Drink through 2027.

Price: € 12.30

Silkbush Mountain Vineyards +27 83 629 1735

MOUNTAIN RIDGE 90/100

D SHIRAZ 2020: Light ruby. Spicy nose with

hints of dark berry. Red cherry and cranberry on

the medium palate with a spicy note on leathery

finish. Drink through 2026.

http://mountainridge.co.za Price: € 5.45

Mountain Ridge +27 23 004 1492


D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Ruby

brick. Spice and leather on the earthy nose.

Palate is rich and full with red cherry and

leathery spice following the nose. Layered on the

complex finish. Drink through 2028.



SILKBUSH 89/100

D SINGLE VINEYARD PINOTAGE 2021

Price: € 40.00


DEETLEFS 88/100

D VOYAGE 3566.1 2018

http://www.deetlefs.com Price: € 13.31

Deetlefs Wine Estate +27 23 349 1260

DEETLEFS 87/100

D PINOTAGE 2017




D PINOTAGE ROSÉ 2022



PADRE REDNOSE 87/100

D MERLOT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020

2026.

Price: € 9.00

Seven Oaks +27 83 639 0405

SEVEN OAKS 87/100

D PINOTAGE ROSÉ 2022

Price: € 3.50

Seven Oaks +27 83 639 0405

SEVEN OAKS 87/100

D CHARDONNAY 2022

Price: € 4.00

Seven Oaks +27 83 639 0405

SILKBUSH 87/100

D VIOGNIER 2022

Price: € 12.00


DEETLEFS 86/100

D DE HAGEVELD 2018



SEVEN OAKS 86/100

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON SHIRAZ 2021

Price: € 4.50

Seven Oaks +27 83 639 0405

DU TOITSKLOOF 85/100

D CHARDONNAY 2022



MIJMERE 85/100

D METHOD CHARMAT 2021

http://bothakelder.co.za/ Price: € 7.36

Botha Kelder +27 23 355 1740

BREEDEKLOOF - SLANGHOEK

OPSTAL 88/100

D CARL EVERSON CAPE BLEND 2019

Price: € 13.15

Opstal Estate +27 23 344-3001

ROBERTSON

DE WETSHOF 92/100

D BON VALLON 2022: Light straw. Subdued

nose with hints of tangerine. Citrus follows on

the steely plate with a well-balanced acidity and

a flinty note on the aftertaste. Will age well.

Drink through 2028.

http://www.dewetshof.com Price: € 3.00

De Wetshof Estate +27 23 615 1853

BON COURAGE ESTATE 91/100

D JACQUES BRUÉRE BRUT RESERVE 2013:

Yellow straw. Smoky and toasty on the rich nose.

Palate is lively and refreshing with a tangy lime

peel note on the aftertaste. Fine mousse and a

racy acidity that will help this wine to age. Drink

through 2027.

Price: € 13.66

Bon courage Estate +27 23 626 4178


SOUTH AFRICA - ROBERTSON


THE PRETTY CELLAR IN BON COURAGE WINERY

LOZÄRN WINES 91/100

D CABERNET FRANC 2021: Bright ruby red.

Orange blossom, tea leaf, wild fig with hints of

cinnamon, cedar wood and oak nuances. Firm

grippy tannins to add to midpalate weight

and length. Drink through to 2025. Excellent

example of Cabernet Franc.

Price: € 12.43

Lozärn Wines +27 82 576 8093

DE WETSHOF 90/100

D FINESSE 2022: Yellow straw. Subdued

nose with citrus and orange marmelade. Palate is

creamy and full with a lemon lime note followed

by stone fruit and quince. A well-integrated and

layered wine that will age well. Drink through

2028.



DE WETSHOF 90/100

D LILYA 2022: Pale salmon. Red apple and

cherry on the rich nose. Strawberry and rose

petal on the well-integrated, but crisp palate. A

fine rosé. Drink through 2025.




D JACQUES BRUÉRE CUVEÉ ROSÉ BRUT

2013

Price: € 13.66


DE WETSHOF 89/100





D THE GOOSEBERRY BUSH SAUVIGNON

BLANC 2022

Price: € 4.86



D INKARÁ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017

Price: € 13.66


EXCELSIOR 88/100

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON MERLOT 2021

http://www.excelsior.co.za Price: € €2.46

Excelsior Wine Estate +27 23 615 1980

LOZÄRN WINES 88/100

D CARMÉNÈRE 2021

Price: € 29.32

Lozärn Wines +27 82 576 8093

PUREBRED 88/100

D SHIRAZ MERLOT 2020




D INKARÁ SHIRAZ 2021

Price: € 13.66



D JACQUES BRUÉRE BLANC DE BLANCS

2012

Price: € 13.66


PUREBRED 87/100




EXCELSIOR 86/100

D CHARDONNAY 2022




129

SOUTH AFRICA - ROBERTSON - AGTERKLIPHOOGTE


ROBERTSON -

AGTERKLIPHOOGTE

WINDFALL 85/100

D CHARDONNAY 2022

https://www.windfallwine.co.za/contact-us/ Price: € 12.00

Windfall Wine Farm +27 83 320 8473

WINDFALL 85/100

D PINOTAGE 2022

https://www.windfallwine.co.za/contact-us/ Price: € 12.00

Windfall Wine Farm +27 83 320 8473

ROBERTSON - BONNIEVALE

WELTEVREDE 92/100

D POET’S PRAYER 2021: Yellow straw.

Citrus and vanilla on the rich nose. Palate is

complex and layered with marmelade and citrus

following from the nose. Lengthy and full on the

finish. Drink through 2028.

Price: € 25.00

Weltevrede Estate +27 23 616 2141

WELTEVREDE 91/100

D BRUT THE RING 2013: Yellow straw. Green

apple and lime on the nose. Crisp acidity and a

fine mousse on the racy palate with citrus notes

folling on the aftertaste. Still very youthful.

Price: € 13.00


WELTEVREDE 91/100

D PLACE OF ROCKS 2021: Yellow straw.

Rich nose with vanilla and orange peel. Palate

is full and developed with a creamy texture

and citrus on the ripe aftertaste. Complex and

layered. Drink through 2028.

Price: € 14.00


WELTEVREDE 89/100

D CALCRETE CHARDONNAY 2021

Price: € 5.00


WORCESTER - NUY

NUY 89/100

D MASTERY CHARDONNAY 2021

http://www.nuywinery.co.za Price: € 6.78

Nuy Winery +27 23 347 0272

NUY 86/100

D LEGACY ARGILLA 2021


Nuy Winery +27 23 347 0272

NUY 85/100

D LEGACY CALCAREO WOODED CHENIN

BLANC 2021


Nuy Winery +27 23 347 0272

WORCESTER - STETTYN

STETTYN 90/100

D GUARDIAN 2020: Dark ruby. White and

black pepper notes with black berries and earthy

notes of leather. Equality of fruit ripeness has

lead to ripe attractive weighted tannins. Will age

well.

http://www.stettynwines.co.za Price: € 6.00

Stettyn Family Vineyards +27 23 340 4220

STETTYN 88/100

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020



STETTYN 88/100

D SHIRAZ 2020



STETTYN 86/100

D MERLOT 2020



WESTERN CAPE - CAPE

SOUTH COAST

ELGIN

SURVIVOR 89/100

D TERROIR CHARDONNAY 2021

http://www.overhex.com


SURVIVOR 87/100

D TERROIR SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021

http://www.overhex.com


WELTEVREDE OFFERS VARIOUS TASTING EXPERIENCES, SOME UNDERGROUD, SHARING THEIR LOVE FOR CHARDONNAY.


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