GG_N50_FR

THIERRY GIBELIN, THOMAS GIBELIN AND PATRICK ARNOULD
towards more single vineyard offerings. Fortunately, despite their number, the
blocks are all located in 7 or 8 small localities, which means that some fruit can be
harvested and fermented together. For example, the range features a ‘Mémoire de
Vignes’ label made from vines that are over 60 years old. For its non-vintage Brut
Chardonnay, the company swaps some Pinot noir for Chardonnay in order to add
a little acidity. “But the Chardonnays come from a colleague in Le Mesnil sur Oger
– we stay within the privileged realms of the Grands Crus!”
So is a Grand Cru Champagne better? Understandably, the complex winemaking
and maturation techniques and extreme variety of this majestic pour means that
there is no one-size-fits-all answer. Despite this, it is tempting to say that terroir
speaks loudest and these Champagnes always deliver that extra spark of spirit and
the richness and complexity that have carved out their reputation. The Grands Crus
embody artisanal winegrowing that plays second fiddle – both in volume and awareness
– to the mass-market Champagnes sold every year. Either way, they offer the
assurance of a return to Champagne’s roots, the certainty of tasting the reality of
Champagne’s vineyard sites in an increasingly globalised world. For this reason
alone, these superlative quality Champagnes will always deserve our attention.
28 WINTER 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE