Eckington Jan 2023

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History This month Killamarsh Heritage Society look at the history of the popular dish – Fish and Chips. Fish and Chips is probably the most famous dish associated with the UK and probably the most loved. We have always had several to choose from in Killamarsh. Over the past 150 years, it has become the go-to Friday night treat. Everyone remembers waiting for Friday for the best school dinner or a trip to the chippy. Here we delve into exactly what is the history of fish and chips as we know it. As with almost all things in the world of food, the history of fish and chips is unclear as to who actually invented the great dish as both constituents were being sold and popular in different parts of the country and it was the combining of the two that sparked the culinary genius. Most people think that fish and chips originated in England, but this is not actually the case. Fried fish and chips eaten together is a British combination but neither of the constituent parts is British in origin. The real history of fish and chips can be traced back to 15th Century Portugal where the dish was really invented. Like so many other famous dishes, fish and chips were created out of necessity, not culinary genius. Portuguese Jews fled to Britain in the late 15th and early 16th centuries. This was due to Manuel 1 of Spain issuing an order that all Jewish people had to be baptised and become Catholic, or be executed. The displaced Sephardi Jews brought with them their tradition of frying white fish, usually cod or haddock, in flour before sunset on Friday. As cooking is not allowed on the Sabbath, this method preserved the fish meaning it could be eaten cold the next day without losing its flavour. It was a huge hit with the locals and fish “cooked in the Jewish manner” was sold on the streets of London every day. Charles Dickens, the author, makes reference to a “fried fish warehouse” in the popular tale Oliver Twist published in 1838. A Jewish immigrant, Joseph Malin, opened the first recorded combined fish and chip shop in Bow, east London, in 1869, It was so popular that it remained open until the 1970s. The other name mentioned in the race to be first is John Lees from Mossley near Oldham in the North of England. He owned a “Chipped Potato Restaurant” which opened in 1863 which also sold fish and chips. He sold his fish and chips from a wooden hut at a market before upgrading to a brick built shop. In the window he had inscribed “This is the first Fish and Chip shop in the world”. Whoever it was, it became an instant sensation. People started slathering batter on their favourite fish and serving it with chunky chips. The industrialisation of the 19th and 20th century brought even more popularity of fish and chips. It quickly became a favourite of factory and mill workers. To keep costs down they used old newspapers as wrappers. This sparked the phrase – “today’s news is tomorrow’s fish and chip papers. However, this practice stopped in the 1990s as people worried about the ink seeping into their food. A takeaway will now wrap you food in plain paper or simply serve it in a cardboard box. By 1935 there were over 35,000 fish and chip shops in the UK. It was now a Friday night favourite and a big part of British culture. In World War I Prime Minister Lloyd George made sure the fryers stayed on at home. During World War II for the morale of the nation, the Government made sure it was never rationed. The first choice of fish is cod or haddock but an array of delicious fish is now offered such as plaice or pollock. Salt and vinegar are classic partners for fish and chips. Other accompaniments are mushy peas, curry sauce, tartare sauce or gravy. The choice is yours. Edited by Patricia Bone 36 Doorsteppa Magazines www.thedoorsteppa.com • 0114 418 5359
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Eckington Jan 2023

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